# Truck had problems going into 4x4 this morning.



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

This is on my 98 K3500. It has the Borg Warner 4401 transfer case. I got stuck in the muddy yard this morning. I put it in 4lo and it didn't engage. I finally was able to get it in 4Lo after getting the truck to move a little but it didn't clang into 4x4 like my 98 K1500 does when 4Lo is engaged. 

My 4x4 indicator light will come on initially when its in 4Lo but it won't stay on even though the truck is still in 4x4. In 4Hi, the indicator light will stay on. Is this a problem with a switch and if so, which one.

When I got to work, I tried putting the truck into 4Lo again and it didn't engage until the truck rolled a little. It seems like in the past, the truck didn't have to move for 4Lo to engage and it seems like you could here the clunk when it did.

Do I have a problem and what do I need to check on this system. I'm not very familiar with the transfer case in this truck. The transfer case fluid was changed about 5,000 miles ago. Thanks for any help.

Wayne


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

Does anyone also know what style of actuator is supposed to be on this truck. From my understanding, 98 was the first year for the electrical one instead of the thermal one but the local dealer said that thermal ones were in some trucks up through 99. How can I tell which version I have? The dealer told me that the electrical ones had three wires coming out and the thermal ones had two. Mine has four wires coming out so is it the electrical version?

The dealer also told me that to engage 4Lo, the truck would have to be moving after putting it in nuetral and shifting the lever to 4Lo and that shifting into 4Hi was instantanius even if the truck was stopped. This is opposite of my experience so I really didn't believe anything he told me. Thanks for any help

Wayne


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Having to roll a little for 4Lo (or 4Hi) to engage is normal and doesn't indicate any issues, sometimes it simply takes a little drive line rotation for everything to mesh into place. If you'd like to hear the nice solid clunk when engaging do it with the truck rolling about 2-3 MPH, you should hear it then.

If your actuator has four wires all stemming from the actuator itself (and not from a small separately mounted switch right next to it) then you have the electric actuator. And you're '98 K3500 should.

Assuming it's floor shift correct Wayne?


----------



## Bmxdkj (Jul 27, 2008)

If its the floor shift its most likely the thermal acuator, very common problem. Buy the electrical actuator and the harness and you'll be good to go. I've had to do all the actuators on all my trucks since they all went bad at one time or another.


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

B&B,
It does have four wires coming out of the actuator itself so it must be the electric version and it is a floor shift. I messed around with the 4 wheel drive yesterday after work and it seemed to go into 4Lo like it should so I guess its okay. 

The indicator lamp on the floor still will not stay on when the truck is in 4Lo even though the truck is in 4Lo. Can anyone tell me where the switch is that operates this light or is there some type of adjustment that can be done? Thanks for the info, guys.

Wayne


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If you push forward slightly (and hold) on the shifter does the light come back on? May just need a slight shifter adjustment.


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

It will usually come on when 4Lo is first engaged but then go out when you start moving. I can't remember if the light comes back on or not when pushing on the lever. I guess I forgot to try that the other day. I did get under the truck and was able to move the linkage rod back toward the rear of the truck and then the light was on so It probably is an adjustment problem. How do you adjust this shifter. I couldn't seem to find it in my factory service manual as it seems to mainly focus on the push button system. Thanks.

Wayne


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

I found the adjustment procedure through my Alldatadiy account but I have a question that is probably stupid. Part of the procedure tells you to raise and support the vehicle. Do I need to get all four wheels off of the ground or is it just the front or the back. Also, once I disconnect the linkage rod from the console shift lever, do I need to move the shift lever all the way down or put it in the middle of the 4hi markings on the console? Are there any other things to watch out for on this ajustment? Thanks.

Wayne


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Try giving the shifter a shove first like I mentioned and if it helps then give the linkage a slight adjustment. There should be a threaded block on the T-case arm where the rod connects. Simply loosen the lock nut and remove the clip that holds the block to the arm, pull the block out of the hole in the T-case shift arm and turn it on it's threads to lengthen/shorten it as needed. Shouldn't take much. Maybe two full turns or so.


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

You only raise the truck to give yourself working room, it has no bearing on the actual procedure you're doing. Doesn't matter if you're raising the front, rear, or one side. As you're only doing it for elbow space.

Nothing difficult about it but you do have to snake your arms up in there around the front D-shaft for access. And be sure to properly block the wheels just in case you accedently shift the T-case to neutral while you're working under it. Don't need it rolling over you. :waving:


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

B&B,
Thanks for the info. I don't need any extra room under the truck so I can forget about that part. Here is the procedure and I have one more question about it.
1. Place shift lever in the 4Hi position.
2. Raise and support vehicle.
3. Disconnect the linkage rod from the console shift lever.
4. Shift the transfer case into 4Hi position(the transfer case shift lever in full forward detent). A click sound indicates that the transfer case lever is all the way back.
5. Adjust the swivel in order to align with the notch in the console shift lever.
6. connect the linkage rod to the console shift lever.
7. Lower the vehicle.

My question is on step 5. I assume that once you disconnect the linkage rod from the shift lever, the lever is going to fall to the bottom of the 4hi indicator on the floor. How do you know where on the floor indicator, the shift lever needs to be for you to correctly adjust the linkage rod. The floor indicator has a fairly large area that says "4Hi" on it. I may be overthinking the whole thing and it may be obvious to me when I actually try the adjustment. Thanks again.

Wayne

PS. Thanks for the reminder on chocking the wheels. I don't want to get run over.


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yes over thinking it a little as it's not rocket science so don't let your Alldata make you think that it is.

If you discover the shifter does need an adjustment all you need to do is lengthen the rod slightly so the shifter fully pushes the T-case arm into place and it stays there, there's no need to have it in a specific range position as you're not making a major adjustment. You just need a little more length, and a turn or two on the adjuster should be enough.

Now if you we're swapping parts around or replacing a major component then yes, you'd make the initial adjustment with the shifter in a specific range but in most cases you still have to fine tune them from there, but otherwise it isn't necessary.


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

Thanks again B&B.

Wayne


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

B&B,
I must be stupid or something but is there a trick to taking off the shift linkage from the shift lever? I can't get it off. I've even hit it with a hammer with no results. Is it press fitted into the shift lever? Thanks for any help.

Wayne


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If memory serves me correctly the 4401's are the same as the rest, there's a plastic insert in the hole on the T-case arm and a tapered stud on the adjuster block that locks in the hole once it's pressed through. Just requires a large flat screwdriver to pry the adjuster block loose from the insert on the arm.


----------



## pmorrissette (Sep 15, 2008)

You didn't mention it, but did you place the transmission in "neutral" before trying to engage 4LO ?

I know it's a basic step...but sometimes one that is overlooked...


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

Yes, that is correct, there is a plastic insert. I was afraid that I was going to break it so I didn't pry too hard with the screwdriver. I will try it again. luckily they still sell the insert if I do break it. I kind of flattend the end of the tapered stud so I hope it will come out. This piece has been discontinued.

When the shift lever is in 4Lo, it is all the way against the top of the shift indicator housing so that may be keeping the light from coming on. It does look like it needs some adjustment. Thanks again.

Wayne


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

I just went out and tried the screwdriver and it was a no go. I even sprayed lubricant on everything. The only thing I managed to do was screw up the plastic insert. I guess I'm just going to have to try and cut the insert out and buy a new one. I don't know what else to do.

Wayne


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Disconnect the rod at the shifter end instead.


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

I may have to do that but I'm going to try again tomorrow when I have more time. The shifter end has the same setup so I don't know if it will be any easier. Thanks again.


Wayne


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

Well, this whole thing is pissing me off. I cannot get the linkage rod disengaged off of either end. I'm almost afraid of trying to cut the old bushing off because there is not much room up there and I don't know if I could get everything back together. Looking at the new bushing I bought, there is a ridge inside the bushing that I guess holds the rod into the shift lever. It looks like it is going to be just as hard putting everything together as it is trying to get it apart. It doesn't look like you can just push the rod through the bushing without some type of pliers and I don't think there is enough room to use any pliers there. I sure wished they would have used a different setup. I might just have to leave it alone.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to take this apart and put it back together? Thanks.

Wayne


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

I always use a little lubrication and a pair of channel locks to push the pointed end of the rod through the bushing. Can't say I've ever had an extremely difficult one using that method. Always works.

You know you can also remove the nut holding the shift arm to the shift shaft on the T-case and turn the the whole thing ( the arm and adjuster block) together as an assembly too if you don't wish to fool with the bushings.


----------



## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

B&B;1013682 said:


> I always use a little lubrication and a pair of channel locks to push the pointed end of the rod through the bushing. Can't say I've ever had an extremely difficult one using that method. Always works.
> 
> You know you can also remove the nut holding the shift arm to the shift shaft on the T-case and turn the the whole thing ( the arm and adjuster block) together as an assembly too if you don't wish to fool with the bushings.


Thanks for that suggestion. I will probably take the shift arm off since that seems like its going to be the easiest way to go. I don't understand why they just can't use a bolt type setup with a lock nut. That would be way easier to remove and install and still be secure. I'll see what I can do tomorrow. Thanks again.

Wayne


----------

