# Diesel Help



## B&E snowplowing (Oct 4, 2006)

Hi all, this is gonna be long but please bear with me and read the entire thread, I really need some help.

I have a 1989 Chev 1 ton dually 4X4 with dump box, it has 260000km with a 6.2 L Diesel, that being said here is my problem.

At the end last years plowing season, the truck started to over heat. The truck would run at 170 degrees while driving down the road with the plow up in front of the grill, as soon as I started plowing the temp would start to rise all the way up to 210 degrees.

I would stop plowing and drive down the road for about 1/2 a kilometer and the temp would go back down to 170 degrees

I would go back to plowing and within 5 minutes the truck was overheating again.

I checked out the truck and noticed that the water pump was leaking out the weep hole so I replaced the pump, and while I was at it I changed the thermostat as well. Went out plowing on the next snow fall and the SAME thing happened, so I stopped plowing took the truck home and used the back up for the rest of the night.

The following day, I was looking at the truck and it appeared that the fan clutch wasn't engaging, so off to the dealer and installed one of those.

During this process, the truck NEVER lost or used any antifreeze

On the next snow fall thinking the truck was ready to go, I headed out to go plowing, and just after I left the driveway, the truck started blowing white smoke, and LOTS of white smoke, turned around and parked it.

Over the course of the summer, I tore down the truck to replace the head gaskets.

All went well I tore the truck down, sent the heads out to get checked, and they were ok, installed new head gaskets, and reinstalled everything. Filled up the rad and went to change the oil.

When I removed the oil drain plug antifreeze started coming out, actually about 1 1/2 quarts came out then the old oil. I thought it was antifreeze from the blowen head gasket, so completed the oil changed and tried to start the truck.

I bleed the fuel system, I have fuel at the filter, cracked the lines at the injectors, and have fuel there, but the truck WILL NOT START. I have actually drained the batteries trying to start the truck, then charged the batteries and tried again and again still will not start.

I have now noticed, that there is coolant leaking from between the tranny and engine block, not much just, it not like it is gushing out it is a VERY slow drip, maybe 1 drop every 5 seconds.

Still the truck WILL NOT START.

With the coolant in the oil, and now it leaking after all the work has been done, and the truck not starting, does anyone have any idea or comments. I have spent tons of money on this truck, and now have no idea what to do next.

The coolant in the oil pan, and now leaking really concerns me.

Please send your question, and comments and I will answer back right away.

Thanks
Brian

PS. For some reason when I'm trying to start the engine and it is cranking over the Negitative ground wire from the battery to the engine block is getting hot.


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## csi.northcoast (Aug 7, 2010)

First of all let me say i am no expert mechanic..

but, coolant in the oil is never good, depending how long it was runnign like that you may have crank and rod bearing issues.

the overheating part may be that as you are going down the road you have alot of wind blowing through the radiator and not so much when you are plowing, so 210 may not be overheating.

the groung cable may be getting hot from all the cranking of the engine (that is a lot of torque turnign over. 

make sure you are getting good compression and fuel into the cylinders

good luck


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## B&E snowplowing (Oct 4, 2006)

Does anyone have any ideas.....


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## Yooper75 (Dec 30, 2010)

Coolant in the oil, and leaking at the back of the engine tell me that the intake manifold gasket may not have sealed correctly. When was the last time that coolant was flushed on the truck before you did the head gaskets? If it was never changed or flushed the radiator could be plugged solid with rust and scale and could have also contributed to the failure of the head gaskets. The old 6.2's were a buggar to get fuel up the injectors and get it fired again after getting air in the system.


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## PabstBlueRibbon (May 11, 2010)

With diesel its important to add SCA's to your coolant. It sounds like you might have some cavitation of the cylinder walls. Have you tried pressurizing the cooling system and taking the glow plugs out and looking in the cylinders to see whats leaking?


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## gtstang462002 (Dec 23, 2009)

PabstBlueRibbon;1298650 said:


> With diesel its important to add SCA's to your coolant. It sounds like you might have some cavitation of the cylinder walls. Have you tried pressurizing the cooling system and taking the glow plugs out and looking in the cylinders to see whats leaking?


The Navistar 6.9L and 7.3L were the only light duty diesels that had the cavitation issues that I am aware of. The coolant in the oil probably came from when the cylinder heads were initially lifted off of the block. The coolant leak in the back of the motor is probably a loose hose clamp on a heater hose. Unless there is coolant back in the oil after the oil change there probably isn't an internal leak. There is a black box on the side of the injector pump that will cause a no start issue with these trucks. The other big issue that I have seen related to fuel is the fuel pump mounted on the inside of the frame rail near the drivers door. It kinda looks like a fuel filter with two wires attached to it. They would pump fuel ok, but not be capable of developing enough pressure/volume to actually start the truck. Typically if it was running before you tore it down it is something that you forgot to hook back up when you put it back together.


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## PabstBlueRibbon (May 11, 2010)

Cavitation is an issue with any diesel engine.


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