# Three problems, 05 F350 5.4



## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Still working to get my new to me 05 F350 up to par before registering it. I'm just about there but I'm having a few issues that I can't seem to figure out.

1. There is a code saying i have an EVAP leak....I can't find one anywhere. The motor has a clear misfire but there are no misfire codes identifying a particular cylinder or coil whatsoever and the snap on scan tool didn't pick one up either (friends new scan tool, REAL nice). My thoughts were to change plugs however I would rather do injectors in a 6.0 over plugs in this thing any day, however, if that's what my best bet is, that's what I'll do. I've got all the tools should I start breaking plugs but would rather not even go there. Based on live data from the scan tool though, I'm pretty sure that bank 1 has the issue. Am i correct that bank 1 is on the passenger side on the 5.4? Any insight here would be appreciated!

2. Something somewhere isn't registering that my doors are closing. The door dinger for the key turns off when I close my door but my dash ALWAYS says a door is open. No idea why. Because of this though my cargo lamps stay on until they time out after shutting off the truck which then drains my battery pretty bad. Any ideas?

3. Finally, my dash and radio occasionally loose power. I'm not sure where the power is shared between the two or if it should be a ground that would be more at fault here...anyone have any directions on where I should start looking? 

Thanks for any insight on any of these issues! Can't wait to be driving the thing!!


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Bad valve maybe since the computer isn't picking up any spark issues? Try a compression test. When did you buy this thing? First I've read about it. Pics?


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## alldayrj (Feb 28, 2010)

For the doors spray wd40 in the latches. Mine used to do it too. Open and close them a bunch of times and spray it again


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Gas engine I take it? I thought EVAP leak was for the gas tank vent / air feed circuit? Hole in the tank, line damage, plugged charcoal canister or purge valve not working?


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Banksy;1610635 said:


> Bad valve maybe since the computer isn't picking up any spark issues? Try a compression test. When did you buy this thing? First I've read about it. Pics?


Got her about a month ago, no pics on here really. No matter what ya post it turns into a bash fest so I don't really put any pics up here anymore.


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

alldayrj;1610641 said:


> For the doors spray wd40 in the latches. Mine used to do it too. Open and close them a bunch of times and spray it again


Tried brake cleaner but will try with a lubricant of some kind as something else to try! Thank you!


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Here's how she looks now. Found her on CL, still has salvage title so a state trooper still has to inspect the vehicle before it can be registered. So far I've done rear leaf springs as both sides were broken, new front left fender, full fluid and filter change front to back, and lariat rims and new tires. I didn't realize when I bought the truck but someone put 16" ford rims on it and they ground pretty good on the brakes which is why I put new rims and tires on it. Just trying to get through these problems so I can get it on the road! And it came with an almost new Boss truck side so ill be trying out there plows....9'2"V! Eventually! The truck overall is pretty much rust free too!


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Salvage title? Flood vehicle? If so, there's your electrical problem.


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## framer1901 (Dec 18, 2005)

The miss that you hear or feel but doesn't get picked up by a code could be real - we chased that forever in an 06, plugs, swapping out coil packs - it ended up being the stupidest thing you'd ever not think about - coil pack boots - swapped them all out and it runs fine.

The EVAP thing - there's a big whatever the heck it is part, above the spare tire, does something for emmisions and fuel vapor - ours is cracked, melted and it gives up a code all the time.

Dash on and off - same thing here, would love to know how many miles are on the thing, if the dash ever lights up again.

Sorry, I know you just bought yours but ours is the biggest POS but it's paid for, it gets the job done, that's about all I can say for it.


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

mcwlandscaping;1610660 said:


> Tried brake cleaner but will try with a lubricant of some kind as something else to try! Thank you!


Brake Cleaner was a bad move. That stuff eats plastic like no other. The door problem is common. If WD40 doesnt do it than use PB Blaster. it might take a day to work, but it will. Right in the door side latch area, be liberal.

The 5.4s are known for coils going bad. That will trip a bank code and noticeable misfire. Rarely does the code point to a bad coil cause they get week before they go out. Summit Racing has a set for about $200.


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## tjctransport (Nov 22, 2008)

but a bad coil will not give an evap system code.
the only way i have found to find the evap problem is a smoke test. 
the solenoid electrical connection is where i would look first if there are no leaks with the smoke test.


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

tjctransport;1610980 said:


> but a bad coil will not give an evap system code.


Never said it would, but the coils often misfire without a code. What is the code anyways. Additional possibilities would be the fuel cap, or what I have personally seen is the fuel filler neck rotted a hole. In either never seen evap cause a misfire.


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## RSE (Nov 27, 2012)

Door problem is the latch plastic is shot....mine had it too. Drove me insane. All the dw-40 in the world could not fix it. Replace the latch....$100. at the dealer and about 2 hrs to install.Good luck


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## crete5245 (Aug 24, 2006)

Smoke test it for the EVAP code. It might take some time to find it, have it on a lift to make it easier to look under and check all the hoses and canisters.

The door thing.. it has little push button sensors on the latch assembly inside the door, you need to take the door panel off and replace them they are not that expensive.


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

crete5245;1611923 said:


> Smoke test it for the EVAP code. It might take some time to find it, have it on a lift to make it easier to look under and check all the hoses and canisters.
> 
> The door thing.. it has little push button sensors on the latch assembly inside the door, you need to take the door panel off and replace them they are not that expensive.





RSE;1611424 said:


> Door problem is the latch plastic is shot....mine had it too. Drove me insane. All the dw-40 in the world could not fix it. Replace the latch....$100. at the dealer and about 2 hrs to install.Good luck


We made a smoke machine at the garage today and hopefully will have time to use it tomorrow. The plugs are finally done and the skip is gone, thankfully! That was the hard part as 6 of 8 broke, so if I need to replace a coil that will be a piece of cake.

I discovered today that my drivers door latch is messed up in that it doesn't hold the door tight to the cap so I think that's why the sensor may not be picking it up...hopefully! So that one will be getting replaced for sure.

I believe I may have traced my intermittent power to the cluster & radio to a wire harness behind the dash. I moved that harness specifically the last time I lost power to them and power came back on and I haven't lost it since. Doing so a second time will better confirm before I go cutting off the factory covering. There were no apparent rub-through marks on it from the outside but who knows whats under there! I also noticed that the door chime with the door open, key in the ignition is tied to this power loss as well.


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