# Western Unimount In-line Fuse keeps blowing



## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

Hello,

I have a western unimount installed on my 2004 Ford-f250. I installed it this summer with some help from folks on here. Used it for the first time this weekend and it worked well initially but then died on me. No plow response from the joystick.

I noticed I had no red light on the joystick. Checked the fuse and it was blown. Replaced the fuse and it worked for a few minutes before blowing again. It had a 6 amp fuse originally and I replaced with a 9 amp. I ended up putting a 15 amp in just to get the plow to lower and remove from the truck.

Are there common issues to look at that may cause this situation? I couldn’t correlate the blowing of the fuse to a particular joystick command. Any help you may be able to provide would be appreciate. Thank you.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

If you just turn on the controller, will it blow the fuse?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

It is most likly a dead short if it is blowing the fuse.

If you have the controller unplugged and you replace the fuse, will it blow?
If you have the controller in the off position and you replace the fuse, will it blow?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

dieselss said:


> If you just turn on the controller, will it blow the fuse?


Looks like we are on the same thought train today


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Put a lower rated fuse in, then just concentrate on one function at a time, see when it blows.


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

dieselss said:


> If you just turn on the controller, will it blow the fuse?


No, I can turn the controller on and off and it will not blow the fuse.


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

Philbilly2 said:


> It is most likly a dead short if it is blowing the fuse.
> 
> If you have the controller unplugged and you replace the fuse, will it blow?
> If you have the controller in the off position and you replace the fuse, will it blow?


No the fuse does not blow with the controller unplugged, and the fuse does not blow with the controller being turned on. I replace the fuse and turn on the controller and the red light comes on.

Would it make sense to turn the controller on with the plow unhooked and then try each command? If I get a click from the solenoid and the fuse does not blow for and of the commands, could I then safely say that the controller and the truck side wiring harness would appear to be okay?


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

Randall Ave said:


> Put a lower rated fuse in, then just concentrate on one function at a time, see when it blows.


I will try that procedure out. First with the plow unhooked, then with the plow attached.


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

Does anyone have any further advice? The fuse does not blow when the joy stick is turned on and the plow is unattached. Everything is fine and you can hear the solenoid clicking.

I’m still having trouble with it blowing when the plow is attached. It seems to happen at random. My dad was running it and ran out of 10 amp fuses, so he had to put a 30 amp in to get back. He stated he could see smoke coming from the joystick controller. 

Does that help with any troubleshooting?


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## Brettny (Jul 12, 2017)

Well i would think you now need a controller.
Have you checked for spots where the wireing could be rubbing through on the plow frame, truck body, frame or under the dash?
Putting in a 30a fuse in the place of a 10a was not a good move. Get a non self resetting circuit breaker to further diag the problem.


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

I agree that putting the 30 amp fuse in was not wise, and with any luck the controller will still function. 

I did check the wire harness for obvious tears and didn’t find any. I have the power for the controller tied into my brake controller power source. I was talking to a gentlemen who said this may cause an issue. Is that possible?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Does it blow while using the same functions?
Did you look at the coils closely for any damage?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Did you try an OHM meter at the controller plug and check for a short?


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

I haven’t been able to correlate a specific function and the fuse blowing. It seems as if it’s random. I haven’t removed the coils yet.

No I haven’t checked for a short. It doesn’t blow the fuse when I try different functions with the snowplow disconnected. This leads me to believe truck side wiring is okay. Would you agree?


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

Confirmed that the coils are all okay, they were roughly 6.2 ohms when measured. I also verified that the controller is okay. Hooked it up to a 12V power source with a fuse inline and ran through all the controls and the fuse didn't pop. I also used a test light to make sure the proper pins were getting power for each command. All looks good.

I don't know what else could be causing this other than some sort of intermittent short. Any advice on how to check the truck and plow harnesses for this other than visual inspection?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Apply 12v to each coil separately and see what happens.


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

What should happen? The valve shifts? Should I have a fuse installed in the hot lead?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

ndgregor said:


> What should happen? The valve shifts? Should I have a fuse installed in the hot lead?


Yes, and if one is bad then it should get hot.
There's 3 hot leads.


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## ndgregor (May 20, 2017)

So I could take a battery with an line fuse holder and run 12 volts to each coil, one at a time. Valves should shift. If I blow the fuse, I know the coil is shorted/bad? Is that the idea?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Yep


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

ndgregor said:


> I don't know what else could be causing this other than some sort of intermittent short. Any advice on how to check the truck and plow harnesses for this other than visual inspection?


Intermittent shorts suck PERIOD.
Best answer is to start at the controller and work your way to the plow. Pay close attention to wires rubbing, and going around parts. Firewall, and grill and covers are just a few spots. It only takes a pin hole in the insulation to cause a short.
Just take your time and look over everything extremely carefully and closely.


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## Brettny (Jul 12, 2017)

I wouldnt think it would be a coil problem as it blows not specific to a function. Have you taken a look at all sides of the wireing behind the grill? Theres alot of sharp metal in there and its hard to see with the grill still on.
Have you taken the housing appart on the controler?
Im thinking you ether have a short in the controler or a rubbed through wire.


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