# run's like garbage



## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

my truck has been acting funny and i have been reading but no one has had any problems like mine. my truck runs , starts fine and drives. when your driving it kinda falls on its face and if you hit the gas harder it kind of just dies out. it has been running like this for a while. also eats alot of gas. btw its the truck in my signature. It also has a power band of its own that jumps around and not consistant. im thinking it might be a fuel pump. i have had it on a scanner and everything it showing fine. but just runs like ass when you have a load on it. i did replace plugs wires cap rotor, checked egr, colant temp sensor was replaced not to long ago, fuel filter not to long ago aswell. does anyone have any ideas or has this happened to them. the rpm's jump alittle but to and has a small miss to it. it only happens when its fully warm. it has been driving me up the wall and i need this truck for plowing so anything i will do and check will be a great help. thanks guys.

5.7 350 in it


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## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

bad gas?
Water in the gas?

pore some(two bottles for 20 gal) 90% rubbing alcohol in the tank and run it, if there is any water in it, it should take care of it.
rubbing alcohol works better (if you use 90%) then dry gas, since its only 50% alcohol....


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## MSplowing (Dec 2, 2010)

My 95 was doing the same thing changed the fuel pump and havent had any trouble since. Check your fuel pressure odds are its the fuel pump


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

Don't use rubbing alcohol or dry gas if you have ethanol mixed gas. Get some seafoam or something like that, there are plenty of products out there that are safe for ethanol mixed gas.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

i have been running heat every fill up and sea foam every other fill up in the summer. thius this is killing me and im freaking out cause its winter and i finally got a deacent route and i dont wanna f it up. might throw a fuelpump in it afte work if i dont get any responces


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## MJay (Oct 16, 2005)

the new boss 92;1200999 said:


> i have been running heat every fill up and sea foam every other fill up in the summer. thius this is killing me and im freaking out cause its winter and i finally got a deacent route and i dont wanna f it up. might throw a fuelpump in it afte work if i dont get any responces


Check fuel pump connections, you may get lucky with a bad ground.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Have you done a fuel pressure test? Would be foolish to piss away money on a pump if yours it working fine. You can buy a gauge with the TBI adapter for less than $50. Drive around with it poking through the hood for a couple days. Watch if it drops when the truck starts to run poorly.


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## Vinnie (Dec 4, 2006)

Might want to check the intake gasket . I had one that the trottle body gasket leaked. When I stopped at a light the engine would surge .


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

did a test last night, 10lbs on the preshure line at the backof the throttle boddy. doesnt hold preshure either, slowly drops. ran great last night, went to start it this morning to plow and nothing. this thing has me right at the end of the road with it.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the back of the throttle body that can cause erratic readings even if the pump is ok. 

What I really think it is-the ignition control module. The truck will start fine, run fine, and only begin losing power after it gets hot. Let it cool down, and it will have plenty of power again. If these match your symptoms, change the ignition control module. It is underneath the distributor cap.


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## South Seneca (Oct 22, 2010)

I had a 93 1500 that did that. 

One night coming home from work it started chugging at 55 mph. When I got to the stop sign it quit. I got out with the flash light and looked everything over. After 20 minutes of talking to everyone's voice mail, the truck started and drove the last 5 miles pretty well. 

A couple days later I was in town filling the cooler with "Silver Bullets" and the truck wouldn't start. My mechanic changed the ignition module, and the truck ran great.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

but my qeustion would be how long does an ingnition mod do that before it goes out? truck been doing it on and off for like month and a half


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

It can do it for months. You can have it tested at many parts stores-but if it is an intermittent hot failure it will test fine unless it is warmed up. It's a $50 part-if this only happens when it's hot, I'm 90% sure that is your problem. 

Intermittent problems are the toughest to diagnose. If you didn't want to throw parts at it-next time it breaks down, check for spark. if you have none, then replace your icm.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

ok i picked up a new distributor with a brand new ing mod i installed about a year ago and it was only ran in the truck for 2 months before it got totaled, so i will let you know what happens afterwards. when i got home from plowing it started right up and put her in the garage. ran fine after sitting out side for a couple hours. this is confusing the hell out of me i hope it was the ingnition mod.


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## mtstclair (Oct 19, 2005)

Where is the fuel pump ground? been haveing kind of the same problem


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

it goes into the frame kind of by the filler neck, they rust easy because they are so exposed. i just picked up a new distributor with pick up quoil and ingnition mod going to stick it in there after work, clean a couple grounds and go for a test ride.

ps my spelling sucks today had to plow this morning after getting an hour sleep. worked on my truck all day and then to work again and then back to the drawing board!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

i have a new ingnition mod in it and it is still doing the same thing. still havent done the fuel pump yet but havent made the return. 

another thing i noticed is the coil in the square steal ring moves alittle, is it suppossed to be tight or have some wiggle room?


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

The coil should be tight from my recollection. A bad ground there will also cause low spark. 

I doubt it is the fuel pump itself-though a faulty regulator can cause intermittent symptoms. Have you tried running the truck with a gauge like was suggested previously? Should be around 7 psi and hold steady.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

no i havent ran it with the gauge, im going to throw a coil at it cause it seems to be have a bad conection in the holding ring. fuel pressure regulator will get changed aswell today, to see if it has anything to do/ change. this is confusing!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

i really dont know how to thank you guys for helping me once again and giving me a whole bunch of stuff to do. my truck is fixed for now but i shouldnt speak so soon. the coil did it and im back on the road truckin'. thanks guys i really dont know how to thank you guys for the list of stuff to try to get it fixed!


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## darryl g (Jan 30, 2010)

Glad to hear you're up and running. I was going to throw out a possibly worn distributor.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Glad to hear you got it worked out.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

ahh damn it came back again, i threw a fuel pump in it tonight and still nothing. idk whats going on with it but im going nuts because i need it to plow!


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## MSplowing (Dec 2, 2010)

Are the injectors gummed up maybe?


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## Russ's Repair (Oct 7, 2008)

just a thought but it could be a clogged catalytic converter. Use an non contact thermometer and check the difference between the Y pipe and cat once hot and stumbling.


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## tkahike (Dec 22, 2006)

Russ's Repair;1204517 said:


> just a thought but it could be a clogged catalytic converter. Use an non contact thermometer and check the difference between the Y pipe and cat once hot and stumbling.


I second this. I had something similar happen to me, drove me nuts.


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## darryl g (Jan 30, 2010)

My guesses would be worn distributor or timing chain. Have you put a timing light on it to see if it wanders around?


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

To check the catalytic converter-connect a vacuum gauge teed off of the PCV valve. Drive the truck while watching the gauge. If it does not hold a nice vacuum at partial throttle, then the cat is junk. 

My plugged cats weren't intermittent though.....the truck just had no power. ever. 

New Boss-you tried the pressure regulator-correct?


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

MSplowing;1204512 said:


> Are the injectors gummed up maybe?


i dont know but it happens after like 15-30 minuets after you get into driving it.


Russ's Repair;1204517 said:


> just a thought but it could be a clogged catalytic converter. Use an non contact thermometer and check the difference between the Y pipe and cat once hot and stumbling.


the cat has been removed!


tkahike;1204575 said:


> I second this. I had something similar happen to me, drove me nuts.


negative i took the cat out like 3 years ago when i got the truck!


darryl g;1204655 said:


> My guesses would be worn distributor or timing chain. Have you put a timing light on it to see if it wanders around?


i just threw a new distributor at it and nothing. i moved the crank with a breaker bar and checked that it tight.


jb1390;1204707 said:


> To check the catalytic converter-connect a vacuum gauge teed off of the PCV valve. Drive the truck while watching the gauge. If it does not hold a nice vacuum at partial throttle, then the cat is junk.
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^posted already.
> My plugged cats weren't intermittent though.....the truck just had no power. ever.
> 
> New Boss-you tried the pressure regulator-correct?


i was going to try one today, this pos its a little sluggish when its cold but when its hot the ***** just dont go any were!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

let me give you guys the recent problems now...... now its loosing power on in all gears, runs but has no power and it starts fine. it feels like your towing a trailer and the trailer breaks are stuck on and the trailer just falls off if you just hold it to the floor. it happens real bad when you drive it for likt 15-20 minuets and it just starts to puke out. so far i have replace the distributor with new ignition mod and pick up, new coil, fuel pump, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. im thinking it might be colant temp sensor or fuel regulator but im done replaceing **** because im at the end of the road with this truck, im getting pissed because its costing me money and the guy i plow for a headach. i dont know wtf is wrong with it but i feel a little bit better after i vented, but its still not fixed.


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## mtstclair (Oct 19, 2005)

I would try a new computer helped me when I had a simular case dam things control everyting these days


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Do you have a haynes manual for it? I forget exactly what the numbers are supposed to be-but you can check the resistance of the coolant sensor using a multimeter. The manual tells you appropriate measurements. 

Double check your timing with a light......and just for giggles do the vacuum test and fuel pressure test WHILE DRIVING it. 

Still sounds like the ignition module......I replaced many of them...if it is a piece of crap part from autozone, they don't seem to last very long for whatever reason. 

Also if you try unplugging the o2 sensor, it will force the engine into open loop. See if that makes any difference. 

My 93 had a problem, that when it was hot, it would surge and lose power like yours. If you held the pedal down (50% give or take), once the engine hit 800-900 rpms, power would kick back in. Never found what it was though, so I hope yours isn't the same issue. 

Now your problem is driving me nuts too......


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

jb i just unplugged the o2 and im going to go drive in for like a half hour and see what that does. i do have the haynes manuel and i have been looking through it. the thing with the timing on these rigs is when you set it the computer(once you plug the advance back it) sets it back to zero and as you need power the computer advances and retards it accordingly. the ignition mod is new when i did the distributor so i doubt its that, but it wouldnt hurt to get a new one in the future if im still experencing problems! this trucks driving me up the wall as i hate driving other peoples plow trucks!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

so while letting my truck warm up i now have a puddle of gas under my truck, hmmmmmmmm, time to check sending unit again!


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

You are correct that the computer will adjust the timing-however if the distributor is way off, the pick up coil will "inform" the computer that it should fire at the wrong time. You still need to set it to 0 if the distributor has been moved. It's not as capable of a system as the OBD2 with dealing with timing issues. 

If it is WAAAY off, then the spark could even be jumping to the wrong cylinder. Could get worse the more throttle you give it, as the computer will advance timing as throttle increases. 

Have you checked the TPS for smooth function? You can check that with a multimeter as well.


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## darryl g (Jan 30, 2010)

I'd go ahead and replace all the vacuum hoses. They're cheap. All it takes is one little crack to screw everythng up and you may not see it just inspecting it. 

Sounds pretty frustrating. Gotta give you credit for not resorting to a BFH at this point.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Vac hoses, egr, pcv valve will all make a difference at idle and low throttle conditions. None of that will matter under load and applied throttle. At WOT, there is no vacuum.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

thanks guys,after ridding a bike to the part store alot of swearing and louad music and shes back together with a new pump and sending unit, we are going to test it out seeming to start alittle better with no leaking fuel lines so we will see. let hope the unit fixed it.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

darryl g;1204991 said:


> I'd go ahead and replace all the vacuum hoses. They're cheap. All it takes is one little crack to screw everythng up and you may not see it just inspecting it.
> 
> Sounds pretty frustrating. Gotta give you credit for not resorting to a BFH at this point.


funny you say that because there is a new dent from my fist cause i got a little frusteradted earlier but the truck needs some body work and im going to end up keeping it now just goone restore it this spring and give her some fresh paint because of the trouble shes given me.


jb1390;1204992 said:


> Vac hoses, egr, pcv valve will all make a difference at idle and low throttle conditions. None of that will matter under load and applied throttle. At WOT, there is no vacuum.


vaccume tested the egr, 90% if not more of the lines are new because i hade to chase a leak this summer. pcv valve was replaced 3 weeks ago when i changed the oil and air filter.


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## WetChicken (Dec 23, 2006)

I was thinking O2 sensors or computer, but more towards the computer since it is an intermittent problem. Be sure to pick one up from a reputable yard, one that can be returned if not good.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

i got the new sending unit in it and so far so good, drove it for like 20 minuets, not leaking fuel, now its getting a little warm but i know the thermostate is going on it for a couple days now so im going to let it cool and get that done tonight fill her up and just drive in one direction and we will see.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

im pretty sure we might get snow again tomarrow night so hopefully this thing is fixed and ready to go, just a little frusterating when yuo rely on something and it kinda just punchs you in the gut like this and you keep trying different things and you still get the middle finger in the end. i have spent 4 days on this thing 8 in the am till 3 in the after noon. get home from work around 11 midnight and keep wrenching. hope fully the problem is gone.


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## darryl g (Jan 30, 2010)

Next thing to try...drive it to a church and have an exorcism performed on it...might have a little poltergeist living in the glove box or something.


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## South Seneca (Oct 22, 2010)

I'm thinking Dynamite!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

well impretty sure it was a combine effort of the sending unit and fuelpump i drove it for like 3 hrs last night all arund and it did act up once, didnt even let it warm up like i normally do just got in it and started driving. im thinking the sending unit was sucking air and thats when it started back talking. once again thanks for all the help guys, if she talks back anymore in the next couple days ill bring this thread back up to the top.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

Well the issue came back tonight on the way home, won't accelerate past 2 grand now. I'm very angry and its about to get sold soon and I'm going to take my loss if I can't get it fixed soon.


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

It needs 13 psi of fuel pressure. try pinching the return line and then check fuel pressure ,if it is 13 or above ,change the regulator. Also if you see any gas in the vacuum hose at the regulator , it is bad.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks 84 were going to try it out tomarrow and see what happens.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Not sucking air. The pump is submerged in fuel, no suction line.


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## b&b landscapes (Nov 7, 2010)

i dont know, it almost sounds like a small crack in the intake gasket to me... seperates when the engine gets warm just enough to cause on and off problems...... either that or the tbi is going bad or injector


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

Do you think I should swap the tb, I have access to one.


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## b&b landscapes (Nov 7, 2010)

if your going to go that far might as well change intake gasket just to be safe, I really think its the intake gasket... i may be wrong


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## NPMinc (Nov 29, 2010)

Hate to say this but IT IS A 19 y/o truck! IMO I would not be using a truck that age as my primary plow vehicle as well as my daily driver. Hate it but the days of running vehicles for a long time with just routine maintenance and upkeep is gone due to all these computers/sensors/modules etc. Hope ya figure out what it is and get it fixed so ya can go out n make some money to hopefully buy something newer and less problem prone. Best of luck to ya and let us know.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Intake gasket won't cause this. (idle problems, yes, power problems, no)

IMO neither will throttle body (see above for intake gasket)

Remote chance it could be injectors.

Newboss-have you checked the *throttle position sensor*?

That could definitely by your culprit. Also-try unplugging the knock sensor and take it for a drive.

A 19 year old truck can be a very reliable vehicle-for many of us that work without access to a scanner, the OBD1 is a simple system to work on.

Alaska Boss has a 1992 chevy 3500 with 300,000 miles that has been used very heavily. He even cracked the frame in half-but with maintenance and care it runs to this day.


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## b&b landscapes (Nov 7, 2010)

i disagree, leaking intake manifold gasket will cause any ONE OR ALL of the following problems:

*A leaking intake manifold can severely disrupt a vehicle engine's performance and cause a variety of abnormal engine signs and symptoms. Leaky intake manifolds prevent the adequate flow of air and fuel into a vehicle's engine and combustion chambers, a situation that has far-reaching impacts on engine performance, functionality and reliability.*
1. Engine Miss
Many times, a vehicle with a leaking intake manifold experiences an engine miss, or an irregular engine cycle. A leaky intake manifold allows intake gases (air and fuel) to leak out into the outside air, disrupting normal engine combustion, which leads to an engine miss.

2. Engine Noise
A leaking intake manifold allows engine intake gases to escape during engine operation.These escaping gases, which are traveling at very high speeds, can be heard as loud hissing sounds as they leak out of a leaky intake manifold.

3. Engine Hesitation
By interfering with the amount of air/fuel mixture that reaches a vehicle's engine, a leaking intake manifold negatively impacts engine combustion and power. This can cause a vehicle to hesitate or stumble, especially upon acceleration from a stop.

4. Low Engine Power
It's common for a vehicle with a leaky intake manifold to experience reduced engine power. This is due to the amount of air/fuel mixture that escapes from the leaky section of intake manifold. The wasted air/fuel mixture gases impedes engine combustion, which in turn causes a power loss.

5. Hard Starting Condition
A leaky intake manifold can make a car hard to start. By allowing a large portion of the air/fuel mixture to escape rather than enter the engine, a leaky intake manifold prevents normal engine combustion from occurring, which in turn affects vehicle starting, especially a vehicle that has been sitting for long periods of time. 
.

He has done just about everything else that could cause loss of power and intermittant missing......


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## darryl g (Jan 30, 2010)

It sounds like a lot of you guys are more qualified than I am but has a timing issue been eliminated here? 

I know it's a different beast but I had similar problems with my 1985 K-20 and it ended up being a worn timing chain. After it heated up the timing would start wandering around under load and at higher rpms.


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## b&b landscapes (Nov 7, 2010)

that is true also, i havent seen him mention how many miles are on it.... could be time to change. only thing leads me away from that is the i dont think there is too much of a variance in temp on a chain to present itself that way as to here and there do it.... most of the time in a chain situation there is noise also with the additional slack as is tends to slap around ..... and if it did get hot it would just slack and the engine would adjust itself to it and if it was to the point that the engine adjusts itself in a way that causes this many issues i would think the ses light would throw some stupid code for all the adjustment taking place and/or you would def hear the chain..... an engine and computer can adjust itself quite a few degrees before it actually starts impairing the perform greatly (to the point of noticing by just driving) and if its that bad i doubt the chain is it because you would def be hearing the chain slapping around in there and wouldnt last very long on an engine thats working as hard as our trucks do.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Pretty sure he checked the timing chain using a breaker bar and watching the rotor move. if it is tight when cold it doesn't stretch much when hot. 


Vacuum leaks-whether by hoses, gaskets, whatever, will not cause any drivability problems at wide-open throttle. This particular problem is not a leaky gasket.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

B&B landscapes-check your sources. it's clear in about 1/2 a second of reading what you posted that the original author has no concept of how an engine actually works. 

for example-gases leak INTO an engine at high speed, not OUT OF in the case of a leak. 
Extra air disrupts the ratios, making the mixture less volatile-causing a hard to start condition. 
I could go on.......but get better sources. 

This problem, again, is not a gasket.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

NewBoss92-does the throttle body you have access to have a pair of injectors, and a throttle position sensor on it? 

If it does-swap the whole thing and let us know what if anything changes.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

b&b landscapes;1209185 said:


> ....... most of the time in a chain situation there is noise also with the additional slack as is tends to slap around ..... and if it did get hot it would just slack and the engine would adjust itself to it .....


Chevy TBI truck engines do not auto adjust the timing. That's why you have to set base timing on these.


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## kgto1955 (Jan 23, 2011)

I read earlier that you replaced fuel filter but was it the right one. I owned a 1990 Suburban bought new and 5 or 6 years into owning it I was so disapointed in it's performance that I was fearful of driving it. On a trip from Ohio to Florida pulling a small trailer I didn't think I was going to make it back. I was unaware of fuel filter mounted in fuel line under truck about where you sit. I changed it and it totally fixed the problem.I went from what felt like 50 hp to full strength. I had all the same types of complaints and fixes that you tried.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

That's the only filter on these generation of trucks, not counting the sock on the pump.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

Sorry for takings longtime get back to you guys, have a big side job I have been working on since this winter is a bust. I have been running with the o2 sensor unplugged, and has been running really well for the couple hours run time I have on it. I'm going to run it like this for a couple more days and see what happens, if all goes will the truck is getting detailed and cleaned so I can trade it in, for the time being need to fix it because it my transportation and plow rig.


As for the person that said its a bad plan running my truck for work and transportation, I haven't had one thing go wrongwith it in 4 years of working the Hell out of it and it just won't die. So please refrain from comments unless you have something that would help me get the fixed without running it with sensors unplugged


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## b&b landscapes (Nov 7, 2010)

my source was alldata, so if they are wrong then i guess so is 95% of the mechanics who work on their cars because that is where they get their info

im trying to keep comments out of it new boss, keep us updated on the progress... Some ppl wanna turn this into a pi$$in match over who knows what, and i dont claim to be any genious..... but did take auto mechanics school for 5 years and worked at goodyear for 6 after that..... working on cars got old and gave it up to be a landscaper....


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## b&b landscapes (Nov 7, 2010)

just confered with another mechanic buddy who has 25 yrs exp.. he said after everything you have checked and/or replaced the next step would be to see if it does have a hairline crack in the intake gasket and then he said that he would think after that either valves are worn or cam is worn (but he said engine temp shouldnt affect these possiblilities)


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

for some reason im still thinking its a dam regulator. b&b the heads are new a little more than a year ago, like fresh gm heads. another kick in the nuts is it only seems to happen when im driving to work!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

kgto1955;1209487 said:


> I read earlier that you replaced fuel filter but was it the right one. I owned a 1990 Suburban bought new and 5 or 6 years into owning it I was so disapointed in it's performance that I was fearful of driving it. On a trip from Ohio to Florida pulling a small trailer I didn't think I was going to make it back. I was unaware of fuel filter mounted in fuel line under truck about where you sit. I changed it and it totally fixed the problem.I went from what felt like 50 hp to full strength. I had all the same types of complaints and fixes that you tried.


did your truck only do it when it felt like giving you the finger or all the time?


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

im going to trow and different throttle body on it today and see what happens to it because im going to flip out in the next couple days if i cant get it fixed!


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## kgto1955 (Jan 23, 2011)

I responded yesterday about fuel filter mounted underneath truck in driver side frame rail. Did you replace that filter and did the connections get hooked up air tight. If that filter is bad it absolutely can create the type of problem you are experiencing. I'm not saying it is the problem.
Just asking if it was changed.


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## kgto1955 (Jan 23, 2011)

In response to when it acted up, it was mostly all the time with poor response and lack of power but sometimes would run like it should. I suppose the dirt in the filter would move out of the way every now and then.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

+1 on the filter....it can for sure cause this. I thought it had been changed...but maybe not. The pump is before the filter-so it will leak instead of sucking air if the connections are not quite tight. 

Newboss-have you done a fuel pressure check while driving-or changed the fuel pressure regulator?


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

The sending unit lines were cracked so I put a new pump and sending unit in it right away. I'm at worm right now and I drove here no problem, the o2 sensor is still unplugged still. And it has been running fine


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

well once again i thank you guys for all the help, i think i for sure got her fixed this time, it was the o2 sensor, been crusing around town with it for a couple days now. i found out the little exhaust shop i took my truck to stripped the o2 out and after getting the old one out i had to retthread the bung nut and the new one went right in and has been running good. time will tell but if i have any more prblems i will let you guys know. you guys helped me alot and i really apprechate it!


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