# Clutch Issues with Wrangler 2.4L



## Raejack

I'm using my Jeep Wrangler (2004) to plow (not commercially). I have replaced the clutch last season and can tell that it is starting to go again. I replaced it with a standard clutch but wonder if anyone can recommend a model of clutch that is capable of handling the plowing task. Beyond the clutch issue, the Jeep works great for plowing.


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## kimber750

4low will take some stress of the clutch. Also don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal. Stock clutch should last a lot longer than one season.


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## sota

are you sure the shop did the install right? if you're killing the clutch in a season you're doing something wrong. are you running bigger tires? what's the ratio in the diffs? are you using LO range on the t-case at all? if you're finding you're having to slip the clutch a lot and don't want to be in 4LO all the time, consider seeing if you can install the teraflex 2LO kit in the transfer case.


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## SnoFarmer

i hardly ever need to use 4lo on my jeep when plowing.

you should release the clutch then drop the plow so you are moving before you apply a load from plowing.

yes, i agree something is a misss.
a clutch should last a few seasons even under commercial use.

keep your foot off of the clutch unless shifting dont ride it or slip it
and I didn't shift while pushing a blade full.

and even with a clutch come to a complete stop before shifting from R to 1st or 2nd
or from 1-2 to R


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## Sprag-O

No reason it shouldn't make it a few seasons...

Did they turn the flywheel when the clutch was replaced?

Are you sure the clutch is worn vs everything being glazed?


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## Raejack

*Thanks for the info*

Well I guess my biggest issue is riding the clutch on short runs. I haven't used the 4LO much because the longer runs seem to take forever when using it. I will try to make myself get totally off the pedal in every run and probably not push against a bank too much. Thanks again for all the info.


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## dieselss

Riding the clutch is a no no.


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## micklock

Raejack;1947690 said:


> Well I guess my biggest issue is riding the clutch on short runs. I haven't used the 4LO much because the longer runs seem to take forever when using it. I will try to make myself get totally off the pedal in every run and probably not push against a bank too much. Thanks again for all the info.


I always plow in low, mostly 2nd and 3rd gear.


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## sota

gotta learn to dance like Fred Astaire at the end of a push... clutch in, plow up, buffer to a stop, nice and smooth.  I plow in 2HI 1st.


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## Plowtoy

Flywheels in passenger cars today should just be replaced. If it was machined, it may be too thin or at its max spec. If you do replace it again, be sure to replace the flywheel, pressure plate, and slave cylinder. I would also stay away from Autozone, Advance, and Pep boys when it comes to purchasing parts. Napa or Jeep Dealer are the only parts I trust.
Keeping your foot off the clutch pedal is also very good advise. Just the least bit of pressure on the pedal will take life off the friction plate.


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## SnoFarmer

Humm 
I'd hate to, replace the flywheel every time my jeep Needed a clutch.

Jeeps are not econo box cars.


And it's a no brainier, get quality parts,


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## micklock

the service manual says not to machine the flywheel, it recommends to only use sandpaper.


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## sota

replacing the flywheel on certain manual transmission jeeps isn't as easy (or cheap!) as it sounds. I know mine is apparently made of unobtainium and unicorn farts. also it's machined from the factory to have a slightly conical face. if you machine it flat the clutch won't work right.


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## Sprag-O

Clutches should last ~150k under normal conditions, dropping an extra $100 while you're already in there shouldn't be a big deal. 

If you're toasting clutches every 20k, even with abuse, you're doing something wrong. I almost have only ever seen this happen with people that drive with their foot resting on the clutch.

Sota, what's the difficult part with swapping the flywheel? Most the time you yank the crank bolts and blam, flywheels off... Have a harder time getting pilot bushing/bearings out.


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## jasonv

Raejack;1947384 said:


> I'm using my Jeep Wrangler (2004) to plow (not commercially). I have replaced the clutch last season and can tell that it is starting to go again. I replaced it with a standard clutch but wonder if anyone can recommend a model of clutch that is capable of handling the plowing task. Beyond the clutch issue, the Jeep works great for plowing.


How much mileage on the clutch?

When the parts are new, they are *rough*, so when you engage them, they grab incredibly hard. It can take some miles before it will be broken in (i.e., smoothed out). For me, that usually takes about 15,000-20,000 km. A typical year runs me 35,000 km, but others tend to drive less.

Could it be that you're just feeling it smoothing out as its broken in?


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## Thor77

Hi There! 
I know I'm late to the game but just ran across this thread. I have a 79 CJ7, and prior to swapping gears to 4:56's my 35" tires ate my clutch. I replaced the stock clutch with a Luk Pro Gold series clutch and never looked back. I learned the hard way to spend a couple extra bucks and get a good clutch, after replacing 2 clutches in my 00 Chevy 2500, with a Meyer plow and sander in the bed. The original clutch just wore out, the second actually broke in the middle of an epic storm. After upgrading the clutch I plowed 5 years before selling the truck and not even in deep wet nasty snow, did I ever have the slightest clutch fade or issues.


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## theplowmeister

I change my clutches every 75 to 100 K miles. not that they were worn out but I cant afford to have one go bad in the midle of a storm. So 75,000 to 100,000 miles per clutch EXCEPT when I ran NAPA clutches The F...ing throughout bearings would last just over 1 year. As for the heavy duty clutch, I put 1 in my jeep and pulled it out 2 months later... too stiff for my left leg. Since then Ive used dealer clutches with great results.


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