# Fisher Plow on JD 317 skid steer



## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

Today my neighbor gave me a nice 8 foot power angle fisher plow. I brought it up to the shop and got it all set up for my skid steer, all I need is hoses and the flat faced couplers, and the bushings to get the hose into the couplers and it is ready to go. 

Is there anything special I need to get? I am going to get the hoses made 6 feet so there is some extra slack. I think the JD dealer should have the flat faced couplers in stock. Is there a standard coupler, or are they all different? Any input for this is greatly appreciated. I have pics of the mount build, but it's too cold to go back out to the truck and get the camera! (-5*)


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## xtreem3d (Nov 26, 2005)

i'd like to see your pics..did you have to cut the fisher mount to get it welded to the quicktach? i'm using a 9 foot boss on my skid steer but i didn't make it , mine was made for a skid steer,
steve


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

I had a quiktach blank, and fabbed up the mounts so the plow hooked right up to it. Just welded some ears to the plate, and drilled holes. I ran a chain from the top of the plate to the plow so it will float when it is down, it can be lifted using just the bucket curl.


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

*pics*

Here is one of the plow, and the mount plate that was welded to the blank quicktach plate.


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

*more pics*

This is the mount plate finished and the finished product on the quicktach plate.


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

*even more pics*

This is the quicktach plow plate hooked to the plow eagerly awaiting it's new hoses and skid steer for testing. In the pics it appears that the A-fram may be bent, as the quicktach plate tips a bit from the angle of the plow. If I have to put on a new a-frame, I will have around 3-400 bucks in this plow, so thats not bad at all!!!!


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## KCAPXIS (Jan 7, 2006)

nedly05;477484 said:


> This is the quicktach plow plate hooked to the plow eagerly awaiting it's new hoses and skid steer for testing. In the pics it appears that the A-fram may be bent, as the quicktach plate tips a bit from the angle of the plow. If I have to put on a new a-frame, I will have around 3-400 bucks in this plow, so thats not bad at all!!!!


Your lift chain is a weak link..... when you go to pick up the plow any slack in your lift chain will cause it to break or bend the top of your mounting plate.... You can try and add a 2ed chain or replace the chain with a solid piece of steel ,,, Hope this helps!


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## xtreem3d (Nov 26, 2005)

did you have a particular reason for not mounting the plow to the quicktach so that you would have down pressure especially with the trip edge,
steve


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

KCAPXIS;479828 said:


> Your lift chain is a weak link..... when you go to pick up the plow any slack in your lift chain will cause it to break or bend the top of your mounting plate.... You can try and add a 2ed chain or replace the chain with a solid piece of steel ,,, Hope this helps!


It sure is, I played around with it yesterday and it was obivous immediately that it would need reinforcement. I kind of suspected it, but hoped it was adequate. It wont take much to stiffen it up, I have a piece of 3/16"x3"x4' at the shop that is going to have new job tomorrow sometime.


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

xtreem3d;479853 said:


> did you have a particular reason for not mounting the plow to the quicktach so that you would have down pressure especially with the trip edge,
> steve


I considered bulding it rigid, but then figured I would always have too much downpressure on it, taking the traction away from the front tires, so I decided to go with the floating blade instead. I can always change it if need be.


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## Doug Montanari (Dec 23, 2006)

Looks great if you need some more pictures of this being done look at the fab my own blade thread.


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## xtreem3d (Nov 26, 2005)

nedly05;479929 said:


> I considered bulding it rigid, but then figured I would always have too much downpressure on it, taking the traction away from the front tires, so I decided to go with the floating blade instead. I can always change it if need be.


great... good luck w/ the new plow


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## bike5200 (Sep 4, 2007)

You might want to take the angle cylinders off the plow and drain the fluid out of them before you hook then up to the skid steer hydraulics. Odds are the hydraulic fluid in the plows cylinders is different than the hydraulic fluid in your skid. 

Steve


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## RipT (Dec 6, 2004)

Couple of points: For dirt & gravel surfaces the floating blade will be the best. For paved surfaces, you may want to design a top bracket for a gas or spring-loaded shock absorber so that you have a reasonable amount of down pressure, but are still basically in float mode in terms of traction, etc.

Also....the aux hyd on the skid steer will likely "overpower" the small displacement of the angle rams and cause the blade to try to move much too fast and even slam into the stops. Easy solution is to install two adjustable flow restrictors, one for each ram. You can fine-tune the angling speed with a knob.

Another thing that will be "nice to have" is a "cushion cross-over relief valve". This allows the blade to move away from full angle for example if the leading edge was to hit a solid object by letting the hyd fluid flow from the extended cyl to the other like a pressure relief valve before anything breaks or bends. This is protection for the entire blade assembly, and independent of the trip edge.

Any hyd shop should be able to provide the appropriate items.

Good luck


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

bike5200;480157 said:


> You might want to take the angle cylinders off the plow and drain the fluid out of them before you hook then up to the skid steer hydraulics. Odds are the hydraulic fluid in the plows cylinders is different than the hydraulic fluid in your skid.
> Steve


Yup, Did that, it was the Dextron III Mercon in the cylinders and the new Deeres are using a 10W30 oil for the hydraulics, so it's definitly a good thing I changed it..Thanks!!



RipT;480376 said:


> Couple of points: For dirt & gravel surfaces the floating blade will be the best. For paved surfaces, you may want to design a top bracket for a gas or spring-loaded shock absorber so that you have a reasonable amount of down pressure, but are still basically in float mode in terms of traction, etc.
> 
> Also....the aux hyd on the skid steer will likely "overpower" the small displacement of the angle rams and cause the blade to try to move much too fast and even slam into the stops. Easy solution is to install two adjustable flow restrictors, one for each ram. You can fine-tune the angling speed with a knob.
> 
> ...


Everything I plow is gravel!! I am definitly going to look into the cushion valves and Flow restrictors, after playing around with it a bit it's obvious that both are needed. Thanks!!


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## RipT (Dec 6, 2004)

Nedly05, Glad you have it to the try-out stage since winter is full upon us.

I have been using a Western rubber edge for last 7/8 years or so for my mile-plus of dirt/gravel roads and like it much better than the original steel edge (no, it does not scrape hardpack or ice well).

Others have had good results putting a slit 2" heavy-wall (schedule 80 is best) steel pipe over the standard edge. May have to replace it more often, but cheaper than a rubber edge. Also, can be removed easily for when you do need/want a steel scraping edge. Search for some photes & posts.

In any event, would strongly suggest one or the other for your application.

Good Luck


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## CUCV (Apr 9, 2007)

Looks like you are off to a great start. I have seen several that people have made that lack sufficient bracing. I have built quite a few setups and lately have been running 1"X3" bar stock around the parimeter of the quick tach plate. (Helps that I have a pile of 1"x3" kicking around) I modified one of my personal setups to float and have down pressure which has come in very handy with the nasty storms in the NE this year. I found that I don't need flow restrictors on my 03 JD but definetely need them on my Bobcats.


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

CUCV;481153 said:


> Looks like you are off to a great start. I have seen several that people have made that lack sufficient bracing. * I have built quite a few setups and lately have been running 1"X3" bar stock around the parimeter of the quick tach plate*. (Helps that I have a pile of 1"x3" kicking around) I modified one of my personal setups to float and have down pressure which has come in very handy with the nasty storms in the NE this year. I found that I don't need flow restrictors on my 03 JD but definetely need them on my Bobcats.


Thats funny that you say that, I got it all straightened up and added a piece of 1x3 to the top and got it all tacked in, then it stopped raining so I went out and put a new window in the loader that got smashed by a beech tree in a driveway we don't plow. Maybe tomorrow if time allows, I'll get back on it. Doesn't look like I am gonna need the plow right away, unless I convert it into a mud plow!


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## Doug Montanari (Dec 23, 2006)

nedly05;480833 said:


> Yup, Did that, it was the Dextron III Mercon in the cylinders and the new Deeres are using a 10W30 oil for the hydraulics, so it's definitly a good thing I changed it..Thanks!!
> 
> Everything I plow is gravel!! I am definitly going to look into the cushion valves and Flow restrictors, after playing around with it a bit it's obvious that both are needed. Thanks!!


Nedly05 or RipT could you please tell me where you got your cushion valves and flow restrictors? mine is almost done just waiting on my cylinders to come in. thanks


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## MIDTOWNPC (Feb 17, 2007)

Looks good. I havent had any shop time it has all turned into writing invoice time. Keep those pics comming I will post some of mine when I get these bills out. Show a pic mounted to the skid - I need a new computer backgroud


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## nedly05 (Dec 23, 2007)

I havent looked into it yet, but I would imagine your local dealer, or any hydrualic shop should be able to get them for you.


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