# Problems with Kubota Front mount Snowblower



## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

Hello All,

This year I was able to set up a Compact tractor and blower for use in my area. 

I have made it through about 11 events so far. Since the first one I have been battling the bearings on the subframe that brings the Mid PTO shafts to the front end.

The Flanges that "Carry" the bearings are bending and don't hold the shaft and bearings well, I have replaced the bearings and flanges already once. While working my last event about 14" I noticed alot of vibration, and noise, to shut down and find the front Bearing flange had completely fallen apart (Destroyed Bearing, and Oblonged the mounting surface for the flange)

Over the past events I noticed that it was best to keep the blower lower to the ground (Increased height causing U Joint alignment issues, and possible upwards pressure on the bearing flanges?)

But as it stands I can't keep running like this. Does anyone else have issues with their bearing flanges?

I'm looking at having to Fabricate in a new plate to hold the new flanges. Just looking for input.

This wasn't the setup I wanted to go with, But it was the best possible solution available to me for the money. I'm looking to upgrade to an inverted.

Thank you all!
PRCS


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Size and Age of tractor and blower?


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

If you have a Kubota dealer nearby, may be worth it to take pictures (or the parts) to them to ask them for an opinion. May not have too many on here with front mount blowers. I had a Kubota with a front mount years ago; didn’t have any issues with it.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

Philbilly2 said:


> Size and Age of tractor and blower?


The tractor and snow blower is 2003, model b2710 tractor and b2772 front blower.

The blower hasn't seen much use from what I can see.

I will have to get some pics.

I replaced both bearings and carrier flanges on both ends of the shaft already this season. They were "good" but not any more .


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

Here is a pick of the front flange. "Yes I know the nut and bolt have fallen out."

I have purchased a set of new flanges with a theee bolt pattern instead of the two that kubota built it with. But now I just have to fix the metal plate that is screwed up from the wear.


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

Does the pto shaft look bent? Wonder if it’s been banged/damaged and is wobbling sightly whrn in use causing the flange to loosen.


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## m_ice (Aug 12, 2012)

You say keeping it lower to ground seems to help and 1st thing that comes to mind is backing up an incline with a bush hog and the effects that has on the pto shaft. It puts the shaft in a bind like you described.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Do yourself a favour and shut off the PTO before you lift it, Also do not engage it at high rpm, start it at idle and raise the rpm when engaged.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

m_ice said:


> You say keeping it lower to ground seems to help and 1st thing that comes to mind is backing up an incline with a bush hog and the effects that has on the pto shaft. It puts the shaft in a bind like you described.


That's exactly my thought. I try not to lift it to high while the pto is running. It seemed to have a lot more issues when raised high.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

Mr.Markus said:


> Do yourself a favour and shut off the PTO before you lift it, Also do not engage it at high rpm, start it at idle and raise the rpm when engaged.


I normally engage the PTO at a low RS if I try with it too high the gears will not mesh well.

I will have to work a lot harder at keeping the blower lower when PTO is running.

I had my father helping me the last time around and he didn't realize the height was as much of an issue as it was.

I will have to check to see if there are any bends in the shafts.

Thank you for the input so far.


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## fendt716 (Jun 11, 2013)

does this use carriage bolts to hold it together and are they about 5 to 7 inches long. make sure they are grade 8 bolts and nuts. grade 5 and 2 will give and come loose. tighten ever 2 hours for 3 or 4 times. check every storm when done and have spare bolts on hand. deere runs a similar setup and had the same problem you having. parts guy was goes to bolt bin getting the correct size but did not it needed to be grade 8. we order it by part number and found the problem. it fixed the problem just keep them tight.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

fendt716 said:


> does this use carriage bolts to hold it together and are they about 5 to 7 inches long. make sure they are grade 8 bolts and nuts. grade 5 and 2 will give and come loose. tighten ever 2 hours for 3 or 4 times. check every storm when done and have spare bolts on hand. deere runs a similar setup and had the same problem you having. parts guy was goes to bolt bin getting the correct size but did not it needed to be grade 8. we order it by part number and found the problem. it fixed the problem just keep them tight.


Thank you for the post.

I will make sure they are grade 8 not sure if they were. Also will be switching to nylon lock nuts as well if possible.

The subframe where the flanges are mounted is about 3/8" thick, so I can get away with a lot shorter lengths. But thank you for the info about constantly checking them. Wished it could be once a run, but hey! I'll deal for now.


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## sven1277 (Jan 15, 2008)

If that's not the problem, I would definitely suggest looking at the driveshaft under the tractor and where the driveline runs into the blower housing. Also, check the #40 drive chain and gear in the blower where the driveshaft enters the blower for issues. I run a b7610 with a 2750d front blower (and blade). I haven't had that issue. I did just replace the chain because it broke, fortunately toward the end of the storm. Had to switch back to the blade.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

sven1277 said:


> If that's not the problem, I would definitely suggest looking at the driveshaft under the tractor and where the driveline runs into the blower housing. Also, check the #40 drive chain and gear in the blower where the driveshaft enters the blower for issues. I run a b7610 with a 2750d front blower (and blade). I haven't had that issue. I did just replace the chain because it broke, fortunately toward the end of the storm. Had to switch back to the blade.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

I had the entire driveline out about 3 weeks ago. Ujoints seem ok. The main shaft seems straight without issues. I haven’t checked the implement side of the pto shafts.

As for the chain I have noticed a small amount of “play” in the keyway on the large gear shaft to the snowblower(I need to pick up a new one). Additionally there is a play in the chain. I know that it can’t be completely tight... maybe I could install a roller tensioner to the chain to keep it taught.

Thank you


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## m_ice (Aug 12, 2012)

Are the shear pins correct? I know on some pto attachments they call for grade 2 bolts, anything harder and you send it to the next weak link???


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

m_ice said:


> Are the shear pins correct? I know on some pto attachments they call for grade 2 bolts, anything harder and you send it to the next weak link???


Yes I have been using grade 2 bolts. I think at this point I'm going to fix the subframe and then move the unit. I'm planning to get a 3point setup inplace if this one.

I just bought a plow that I'm going to fab to fit on the loader for the next season.

For now I will use my backups till the end of the season.


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

PRCS said:


> I had the entire driveline out about 3 weeks ago. Ujoints seem ok. The main shaft seems straight without issues. I haven't checked the implement side of the pto shafts.
> 
> As for the chain I have noticed a small amount of "play" in the keyway on the large gear shaft to the snowblower(I need to pick up a new one). Additionally there is a play in the chain. I know that it can't be completely tight... maybe I could install a roller tensioner to the chain to keep it taught.
> 
> Thank you


You should never have play in a keyway. The key should never see a shear load. It is just an alignment guide. The load is taken by the clamping of the gear/sprocket on the shaft. If the keyway takes the load and is "loose" you can get vibration that will kill the driveline quickly.


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## PRCS (Mar 26, 2017)

Aerospace Eng said:


> You should never have play in a keyway. The key should never see a shear load. It is just an alignment guide. The load is taken by the clamping of the gear/sprocket on the shaft. If the keyway takes the load and is "loose" you can get vibration that will kill the driveline quickly.


Thank you for the Info. I will see about getting it back up and running and fixing that key way. It's getting very tiresome taking care of the drives with regular blowers and of course I keep getting more drives. Just extending how long it takes to complete. 8-10hr day instead of just 2.5


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