# Plow raises very slowly



## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

So here it is I have a 02 chevy silverado 1500 I bought a used 7 1/2 ft minute mount has 3 plugs. I purchaced a used 4 port module and complete wiring from a 02 chevy 2500 the wiring was taking out in one piece. beside having to reverse polarity to get lights to work, the install went well.
Now I might be answering my own question but I just want some verification.
The problem is the plow raises very slowly. pump goes on for about 5 sec and shuts off, raising the cylnder about 5 to 6 inches. You have to do this five or six times before its all the way up. It does go down but you have to force it down the last 6 to 8 inches.
If I unplug the first coil (driver side) plow takes right off up in less than 5 seccond it all the way up. However without it plug in it won't go down. Took valve out to clean it and With the valve out and the coil hook to valve it clicks but the plunger does not move in or out. It does move freely when you push it in and it springs back. I also switch coil with the center one (same part number) but the problem didn't travel. Coil does have power. 
Is it a bad valve or wiring issue? 
Like I said I think I answere my own question but looking for verrification before I go buying unnesassary parts.
Thanks In advance.
Vinnie


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

So you switched coils and the valve didn't open while you were bench testing it?


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

Correct. No change same problem. I would of thought if it was the coil ther problem would have gone to the other valve.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Wait. Explain again 2 coils and one valve on the bench. Pwr and gnd to.the coil.....valve inop. Coil #2 pwr and gnd valve still inop ?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

On raise you should have pwr to the light blue only s3 coil. Fyi
Lower is wht/ylw s1


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

What I did was remove valve re attached coil. Had my buddy hit the lower button and watch to see if valve open and closed. The coil would only click and I didnt see the valve move. I then swap coils with the center one (Same Part number) and still the valve didnt move. 
With vavle and coil installed but no power connected the plow would raise like it should. With power connected theres where it take forever to raise.


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

I do believe I did have power to S3 on raise and Power on S1 on lower. I will double check tomorow.
Thasnks for replying.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Might need to try outside pwr and gnd. Like jumper wires off the battery. 
Anothet test, energize the coil and put a screwdriver to it and see if its magnetized. 
What color wire are you removing that makes it go up faster?


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

Ground wire (orange and black) I will do your test tomorrow and post back.
If using a outside pwr grnd source that would energize it and be magnitize?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Yes outside pwr and gnd source. It takes the place of the clicker for that function


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

Ok I didnt have a whole lot of time today but I did put pwr and ground to the s1 fdirect from battery and it did  magnetize a srew driver. I though it wasnt all that strong but I also dont know how strong it suppose to be either. I put the coil back on and used the battery direct to coil and it still leave the lift cylinder about 6 to 8 inches up. I forgot to re test for power at all coils. I will do that tomorrow.
On another note. I notice that if my light are not on it kills power to the fish stick. Something elese to look into. May the DRL wire is hook wrong? have to retrace my steps. I apreciate the help.
one other question. is the frame used as a ground like a trailer hitch?
Because i did paint the push plates and didnt grind paint off.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

alesv;1658061 said:


> Ok I didnt have a whole lot of time today but I did put pwr and ground to the s1 fdirect from battery and it did magnetize a srew driver. I though it wasnt all that strong but I also dont know how strong it suppose to be either. I put the coil back on and used the battery direct to coil and it still leave the lift cylinder about 6 to 8 inches up. I forgot to re test for power at all coils. I will do that tomorrow.
> On another note. I notice that if my light are not on it kills power to the fish stick. Something elese to look into. May the DRL wire is hook wrong? have to retrace my steps. I apreciate the help.
> one other question. is the frame used as a ground like a trailer hitch?
> Because i did paint the push plates and didnt grind paint off.


Frame is grounded thru the ground wire for plow motor.

Now what are you trying to do with S1, lower the lift ram?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Where do you have the plow ground going to?


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

dieselss;1658176 said:


> Where do you have the plow ground going to?


If your referring to the main plug to Bat.


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

kimber750;1658082 said:


> Frame is grounded thru the ground wire for plow motor.
> 
> Now what are you trying to do with S1, lower the lift ram?


First post explains everything . In short . Plow takes way to long to raise and when lowered the lift ram doesn't go all the way down. When s1 is disconnected plow goes up fine. I ask about ground because I know on hitches it can create a lot of problems.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

As with hitches,,plows are gnded through seperate plugs the not going dwn the last couple inches, is the plow on ground already?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

alesv;1658221 said:


> First post explains everything . In short . Plow takes way to long to raise and when lowered the lift ram doesn't go all the way down. When s1 is disconnected plow goes up fine. I ask about ground because I know on hitches it can create a lot of problems.


I would first test test that S3 is the only valve powered when raising. If S3 and S1 are powered it will raise very slowly. This could be a short or bad controller. I would guess a bad controller. Down could be quill setting, dirty valve or lift ram packing nut overtightened. Does the plow drift down?


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

kimber750;1658225 said:


> I would first test test that S3 is the only valve powered when raising. If S3 and S1 are powered it will raise very slowly. This could be a short or bad controller. I would guess a bad controller. Down could be quill setting, dirty valve or lift ram packing nut overtightened. Does the plow drift down?


When it's raising slow it would come down about an inch then stop and hold. Headed over to my shop soon. I will keep you posted


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

dieselss;1658224 said:


> As with hitches,,plows are gnded through seperate plugs the not going dwn the last couple inches, is the plow on ground already?


Yes when it hits ground is where the ram stays and the chains stay tight.. I can push it down a little but not enough to where when I hook up can't lock in place because the chains are already tight . Headed to my shop to do what you and kimber suggested . I will keep you posted


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

alesv;1658303 said:


> Yes when it hits ground is where the ram stays and the chains stay tight.. I can push it down a little but not enough to where when I hook up can't lock in place because the chains are already tight . Headed to my shop to do what you and kimber suggested . I will keep you posted


Put controller in float and turn quill out until you can push down by hand.


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

kimber750;1658305 said:


> Put controller in float and turn quill out until you can push down by hand.


Ok found that there is power going to s1 and s3 when raising


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Well then you prob have a controller issue. Can you borrow another one and try it


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

alesv;1658318 said:


> Ok found that there is power going to s1 and s3 when raising


Yep not gonna go up very well like that. A good dealer should let you try a new controller before buying it. Just disconnect S1 so you can pick the plow up and drive to dealer. You can still adjust your quill to see if that is causing your trouble with lowering the plow. Disconnect S1 to raise, reconnect to lower. Remember to keep your feet clear of the plow.


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

kimber750;1658322 said:


> Yep not gonna go up very well like that. A good dealer should let you try a new controller before buying it. Just disconnect S1 so you can pick the plow up and drive to dealer. You can still adjust your quill to see if that is causing your trouble with lowering the plow. Disconnect S1 to raise, reconnect to lower. Remember to keep your feet clear of the plow.[/QUOTOu
> 
> Ok problem solved. Started back probing and found the guy who sold me the ISO and harness must of had a problem with the 3 pin plug. When he spiced in the new plug he used uninsulated connectors. He used heat shrink on s2 and s3 wires and not s1 after awhile that metal connector rubbed through the s3 wire and both wire were getting power up and down.
> Now the plow goes up fine and down but ram still stays up about 6 to 8 inches. However I can push it all the way down with ease.
> ...


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

If the plow is on the ground and your in "float" mode you can push dwn on the ram with ease then your ok. The quill is to adjust your stop speed.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

alesv;1658333 said:


> kimber750;1658322 said:
> 
> 
> > Yep not gonna go up very well like that. A good dealer should let you try a new controller before buying it. Just disconnect S1 so you can pick the plow up and drive to dealer. You can still adjust your quill to see if that is causing your trouble with lowering the plow. Disconnect S1 to raise, reconnect to lower. Remember to keep your feet clear of the plow.[/QUOTOu
> ...


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## alesv (Oct 19, 2013)

kimber750;1658339 said:


> alesv;1658333 said:
> 
> 
> > Quill adjusts drop speed. Glad you got it working. May be good idea to check for any more patch jobs to the wiring.[/QUOTE
> ...


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