# 02 2500hd reverse 480Le



## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

My 02 2500hd is slamming into reverse. If i put it into reverse and let it slowly drop into gear it works fine but when i don't go easy on it, it feels as if it slips and then slams. The transmission seems to work fine other than reverse. Checked the fluid and its way burnt so I know its only a matter of time. I have been milking the tranny for 2 years with this problem but its a pain having to take it extra easy plowing. Has anyone experienced this and found out what the problem is?


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

mow4cash;897711 said:


> My 02 2500hd is slamming into reverse. If i put it into reverse and let it slowly drop into gear it works fine but when i don't go easy on it, it feels as if it slips and then slams. The transmission seems to work fine other than reverse. Checked the fluid and its way burnt so I know its only a matter of time. I have been milking the tranny for 2 years with this problem but its a pain having to take it extra easy plowing. Has anyone experienced this and found out what the problem is?


Ummm...sounds to me like you beat on your truck and are now wondering why you're having tranny troubles? My advice- STOP BEATING YOUR TRUCK! WHen you are plowing- STOP, then shift into reverse- DON'T shift while still moving or you're going to be asking for issues...

Change your fluid and be nice to your truck ussmileyflag


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## BigLou80 (Feb 25, 2008)

Sounds like you need to do a filter and fluid change in the transmission. When was the last one done ?


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Complete stops! I learned the hard way one morning with my 02. I went into a snow bank and when I went to put it into reverse. Nothing. It was when we had gotten dumped on too. Bring it to the tranny shop now while you have down time and get it fixed. Then make COMPLETE STOPS!


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

mkwl;898042 said:


> Ummm...sounds to me like you beat on your truck and are now wondering why you're having tranny troubles? My advice- STOP BEATING YOUR TRUCK! WHen you are plowing- STOP, then shift into reverse- DON'T shift while still moving or you're going to be asking for issues...
> 
> Change your fluid and be nice to your truck ussmileyflag


Well the business I bought my truck from did beat on the truck(knew that when i bought it). Its not a problem from still rolling and shifting(which is probably what caused it). I can come to a complete stop and it still does it from park to reverse. Its a matter of letting it drop in if u know what i mean and then ease into it. I can try a fluid change but since its burnt i figured its shot anyway and a waste of time. I really want to know what is causing it? Could it be in easy fix like the selector which froze one day and wouldn't let me shift out of park till a put heat to it(don't think its that but maybe something like that). Plus if i know what the problem is i can see which tranny shop is the most knowledgeable because they all suck around here, probably could do the same job they do.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

BigLou80;898182 said:


> Sounds like you need to do a filter and fluid change in the transmission. When was the last one done ?


Probably 55k ago when the truck was new. So its definitely overdue. Do u think its worth a shot i figured its a waste since its burnt and probably wont help? If it wasn't so badly burnt id figure that was the problem and the ports were clogged.


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

Stop MILKING !!!! You should of taken the steps to prolonging it ....OIL & FILTER changes Yearly.....
How long will your teeth last with out maintaining them ???
There are so many people that neglect maintenance and wonder why things break or go bad...
Just can't believe it !!!!!!!!!!!!


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## BigLou80 (Feb 25, 2008)

mow4cash;898441 said:


> Probably 55k ago when the truck was new. So its definitely overdue. Do u think its worth a shot i figured its a waste since its burnt and probably wont help? If it wasn't so badly burnt id figure that was the problem and the ports were clogged.


I am no expert (his name is B&B) but fluid is cheap and easy to change, the filter is cheap but not quite as easy to change. You can do both for $50 or less in a few hours time. Its a cheap and easy place to start. If the fluid is broken down it can't do its job in the transmission. If all you needed was pumpable fluid you could run anti freeze/water in the thing

I change my fileter every fall and change only the fluid in the spring, so far I have 170K and the thing ****s as good as it ever did. I don't run synthetic because I change it so often (every 10-15K) that it never gets burnt


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

I guess ill try changing the fluid since its a simple job. Thought changing the fluid at this point was like putting a band aid on a broken leg. Usually i don't maintain stuff that is broken and that's what i figured the Tanny was. I do regular maintenance all the time on my equipment to keep them in good shape but since i bought the truck with the tranny messed up i said to myself ill wait till it dies, get it fixed and then take care of it the way the original owner was suppose to. Guess my thought process was wrong. But if someone could tell me what the actual mechanical problem is that would be helpful. I already know what the cause is(neglect). It would be nice if B&B had some technical input, he is very knowledgeable from what i have read in other threads.


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

You might not what to hear what B&B has to say to you after he reads this.....He may give you an ear full...


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Here's some reading for you.

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=74317&highlight=4l80e

I would do the fluid change ASAP, and put some Lube-Gard in it. You want to do a complete change, including a fluid exchange to pump out the torque converter. You'll probably need 16 quarts. You should be able to do the job for about $75 or less.

If you don't feel comfortable with your local shops for a rebuild, I would go with a Jasper unit.


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## nate456789 (Aug 11, 2009)

Lube Guard is great stuff!
My K2500 fluid was burnt when I got it and I plowed another 2 seasons on it before I had it rebuilt. I got a little nervous pushing my luck with it.

When I first got it I changed the fluid and filter and added two bottles of lube guard.
Never had an issue with it.

What ever you do don't have it flushed after you burn the fluid. There is a high chance it wont work after you do. The cleaning chemicals in the flush mess up the burnt clutches.

Just change the fluid and run it as long as you want to gamble on it.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

nate456789;900711 said:


> Lube Guard is great stuff!
> My K2500 fluid was burnt when I got it and I plowed another 2 seasons on it before I had it rebuilt. I got a little nervous pushing my luck with it.
> 
> When I first got it I changed the fluid and filter and added two bottles of lube guard.
> ...


That's what i thought about the flush . You sound like you were in the same boat as me.
My gut says to replace this thing because its shot and its only a matter of time. When I bought the truck i figured in the cost of a new tranny when i saw it was burnt. Its just hard to bite the bullet when its still working but probably the smarter choice.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

RichG53;900486 said:


> You might not what to hear what B&B has to say to you after he reads this.....He may give you an ear full...


I can take an earful if he also can tell me what is the technical problem with the tranny is. That is really all i want to know but it seems nobody knows. Most people are just telling me what causes the problem because that's all they know. But any kind of reply is better than none.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

mow4cash;897711 said:


> My 02 2500hd is slamming into reverse. If i put it into reverse and let it slowly drop into gear it works fine but when i don't go easy on it, it feels as if it slips and then slams. The transmission seems to work fine other than reverse. Checked the fluid and its way burnt so I know its only a matter of time. I have been milking the tranny for 2 years with this problem but its a pain having to take it extra easy plowing. Has anyone experienced this and found out what the problem is?


How do you shift differently between easy and rough........


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

2COR517;900593 said:


> Here's some reading for you.
> 
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=74317&highlight=4l80e
> 
> ...


I had already read that thread before i posted but thanks for putting it up. Defiantly learned some stuff reading it but it seems different from my case since mine still works. I'm going to have to look into the jasper's. Wish I had a good shop that could fix it the right way.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

I'm not an expert by any means. I'm not sure if reverse band application is mechanical or electrical. If it's electrical, you could have a bad soleniod. It's also possible the band is so worn that as the servo applies faster it's pounding the reverse band. Unfortunately the reverse band is at the bottom of the trans, making replacing the band only unrealistic.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

2COR517;901524 said:


> How do you shift differently between easy and rough........


I wouldnt really say easy and rough. More like normal and babying. When i shift normal say from park to reverse i move the shifter and once its in reverse press on the gas which causes it to slam or clunk. When i baby it i move the shifter into reverse wait 2 seconds roughly and i can actually hear it drop in so i know im good and then can give it gas. Ive never had that much of a delay in any vehicle for it to drop in. I hope i made it clear enough since its kind of hard to explain. Actually took me awhile to understand what it was really doing.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

So it's actually going in slowly. When you hit the gas, it ups the line pressure, filling/applying the servo faster, which is why it slams. Sounds like the lining is worn on the band to me. I'm amazed it has lasted so long. I would be planning to replace/rebuild the trans. When that band breaks, it's all over with no warning. And it will happen at the worst time. 

Like I said, I'm not the expert. B&B will likely be on later, he's the man. He'll also correct me if I made any mistakes LOL.....


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

I am pretty sure the reverse band is mechanical. My reverse went out when I had my 02 hd. Basically the cause was not making complete stops. Not to bash anyone but if you watch some guys videos onhow they plow. (1 comes to mind) he's gotta be shifting at atleast 10 ish mph. That will break the tabs on that band. That's what happened to mine. I was shifting at about 5 ish mph though, but it will do. Now I stop completely then shift. Just bring it in, have the tranny shop look at it and fix it. When ya get it back ask them what they did and see if you can look at the part or parts.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

RBRONKEMA GHTFD;901611 said:


> Just bring it in, have the tranny shop look at it and fix it. When ya get it back ask them what they did and see if you can look at the part or parts.


Sounds good but is there a chain like aamco that i can trust. I don't want to have someone go in there and 7months later after the warranty is up it blows.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Too bad you don't have a local shop you trust. If you are up for the removal/replacement, you mind find someone that will do the rebuild. There's a guy at our Napa I will use next time. Ask around at your Napa/Carquest and see if they have any recommendations.

Jasper may still be your best bet. That's what I would have done if I had the time and money.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Worn or sticky reverse boost valve would be the likely cause. Fresh fluid may fix it if it's just sticking but more often than not the valve and valve bore sleeve is worn beyond tolerances simply from age thus not allowing it to do it's job of regulating pressure, especially on a plow equipped truck since you make many many more forward to reverse gear changes than in any other application bar none. 

If not addressed, eventually line pressure skyrockets (upwards of 500 PSI or more) as it becomes uncontrolled since the boost valve isn't doing it's job and will physically break hard parts. Eventually fracturing the direct clutch drum and can actually break the trans case itself. Which is also the main reason 4L80E bare cases are worth their weight in gold.

The 4L80E's are, and have been well known for many years to have uncontrolled line pressure issue's as the various valves and pressure controlling components wear as the miles accumulate. And if left unchecked will kill expensive components in short order. There is fixes out there to address the issues (several things cause it) at rebuild time. Some of those are what are referred to as "includes all current updates" when buying a re-manufactured or rebuilt trans, and they do work. You just have to get them in there. During a rebuild is the best time.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

Thanks B&B that's exactly what I wanted to know. If i got a jasper unit or a chevy reman would they include these "current updates" or do i have to find someone who really knows what there doing? Is there a place I can find a list of all the things that need to be addressed in the rebuild so i can show a shop?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

A reman from any of the reputable companies would have all the newest updates. But so too should an independent shop that really knows what they're doing. It's the ones who don't know is the ones you have to watch out for.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

Well I found a shop that someone had a couple transmissions done at and never had a problem with them. They said hes a good guy and does good work. He is charging me 2200(parts and labor) and im bringing it to him on Monday and should be done by fri latest. He said it cost him a 1000 in parts which i thought was high. Im just hoping he knows what hes doing. He said there is a 12 month warranty. Hopefully i get a good job done. Is there anything I should let him know or be aware of? I was thinking of telling him to replace the tranny cooler as to not recontaminate.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Sounds like you may have found a good shop. 

If he's factoring a grand into parts then I'd say he's replacing all the common things that should be, such as the PCS, force motor, solenoids, manifold pressure switches, torque converter and all the small parts for all the valve body updates. I would also highly recommend replacing the cooler as well as you suspected. The stacked plate coolers do not flush well so replacement is the best and most trouble free method for long trans life.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

I paid 19 and change. They flushed my coolers, I didn't have clutches burnup, just the broken band.

The grand in parts sounds about right to me. I think the converter alone was more than $300.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

Should i let him do his thing or tell him i want to know whats going in there? When i asked what upgrades he does he said his shift kit. I don't want to be one of those nags because i hate when my customers are and i always do good work. Would it reasonable to ask for a parts list of what is going in the tranny?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Sure, you're the customer who's paying for it so you're fully entitled to know what you're getting for your money. A detailed written list may be overkill but a verbal explanation is more than in order.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Personally, I wish I had gotten a little more info. Unless you know this things inside and out, when they start rattling off what they will be doing you will not remember anything past the second item. I don't think it's unreasonable to ask for it in writing. It's a lot of money. Your money. When I do a several thousand dollar job I put all the details in writing. You're going to be bummed out if you post your itemized parts list up here and find out you should have had a hundred dollar item replaced/upgraded. 

As for the shift kit, they didn't put one in mine. They said these trans don't really need them. And they don't need synthetic ATF. But they do put these items in all the Ford trans. They said the Fords build much more heat. These were all Ford guys wishing they had a 4L80e in their trucks.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

Im gonna ask him when i drop it off whats going in it and right it down while im there. I will post up a list tomorrow and if he is missing something get back to him before he orders the parts. I don't have a problem paying for something if it should be done as long as its done right. Thanks guys for your help.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

He is going to replace all the electronics, shift kit, valves, rebuilt converter, reverse band, clutches, and anything else that needs to be replaced when he takes a look inside. He said he will flush the cooler but if he sees a bunch of metal in the pan the cooler will be replaced.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

For the 60 bucks it would cost for a new, bigger cooler, I would just grab a new one. I just put a bigger plate style cooler in my truck and it was 60 bucks from summit. But if he can get the stock one clean, then you should be ok.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Flush the cooler in the rad but DEMAND the external cooler be replaced. Far to risky to flush a stacked plate cooler during a rebuild in your condition. The extra cost is well worth the insurance policy it will give you.

Other than that it sounds like you're getting all the right stuff.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

I will call him tomorrow and tell him i want the external cooler replaced. Thanks for the heads up.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

Im a little late getting back to this thread but wanted to let everyone know the tranny is fixed and working great. It wasn't the booster valve that was bad i think it was scoring on the drum is what the shop said. I have all the old parts taken out saved for reference. Shop said at 60,000 miles that part should never go and that it was probably defective from the start and i was lucky enough to get the bad one. He said everything in the tranny looked in great condition besides the drum. Thanks to the guys who helped out on this one. Shop also said people rarely bring the truck in before the kill everything in the tranny so it was good i brought it in before it got worse.


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## nate456789 (Aug 11, 2009)

mow4cash;1017985 said:


> Im a little late getting back to this thread but wanted to let everyone know the tranny is fixed and working great. It wasn't the booster valve that was bad i think it was scoring on the drum is what the shop said. I have all the old parts taken out saved for reference. Shop said at 60,000 miles that part should never go and that it was probably defective from the start and i was lucky enough to get the bad one. He said everything in the tranny looked in great condition besides the drum. Thanks to the guys who helped out on this one. Shop also said people rarely bring the truck in before the kill everything in the tranny so it was good i brought it in before it got worse.


So how much this end up setting you back? Did they freshen up all the soft parts or just fix the broken hard parts?


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## spy0068 (Sep 30, 2004)

Hey B&B, is it worth the extra $$$ to run synthetic oil in the 480le trans ????


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If the truck is worked yes. It may add to the up front costs but it's much better at dealing with elevated trans temps that can come under hard working conditions. 

Money well spent.


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## mow4cash (Jan 9, 2009)

$2200 cash and the parts replaced were master o/h kit,rebuilt converter,electronics package,reverse band,bushings,needle bearing,thrust washers,shift kit,center support,h/r drum,filter,t-case seal,inline filter. 1 year or12k parts and labor warranty. So far the tranny has been great. Next fluid change will be amsoil syn.


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