# visor on roof keeps leaking!



## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

i have a lund visor that came on my 2000 f-350reg. cab when i bought it and have had nothing but problems since.it leaked when i first got it and fried a multi function switch that goes to the turn signals and such and when i shut the truck off the heater would stay on and the air bag light was on and and it would bong at you as you went down the road. well i fixed that and sealed the crap outta it and it made it from november to now and the past few days we got some rain and guess what. it leaked and fried the same damn switch. you guys suggest any stuff i could use to seal it better where the bolts are? if not im going to pull it off and sell it im getting sick of it... any help or suggestions are welcome so post em up. i posted this on fte.com to but just seeing if i could get more suggestions here to, it cant hurt. 

thanks 
ben


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## wild bill (Feb 10, 2007)

*leaker*

when we put them on we used pure silicon sealant ,under the visor liberally applied ,make sure the screws fit the holes tight or they will keep loosening up ,make sure the body is at least 70 degree's let it set up at least 24hr before car wash !if the hole's are too loose drill them out and install crimp in threaded inserts for 10/24 thread use blue locktite on the threads to seal the threads ,still use silicone it act's as a cushion also .


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

yea i think the main reason is because a couple of the screw are loose. im contemplating just taking it off but your advice if the best yet. keep em coming


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

Are you getting any popping sounds at higher speeds or wind gusts? If so you may have a crack at the hole. A friends did that and he took it to a dealer. They did a crap job and just plastered silicone on an oversized bolt that looked like he77. It still pops at highway speeds. I told the friend to make sure they remove it and repair the crack, but they didn't, and he didn't seem to care. I expected them to remove it, weld the crack and fill and redrill the hole or to use a threadsert as Wild Bill suggested but of course they took the five minute route since it was a warranty repair. Bill gave good advice. Do like he says, and keep the visor. They add so much to a truck.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

You don't have cab clearance lights do you? Leaks on a truck can be like building roof leaks. The water runs down structures dripping away from the leak. I had a light that had a bad seal. Drove me nuts dripped at the steering wheel but leaked far the the left.


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## nevrnf (Oct 12, 2005)

Drop the headliner and seal around the bolts from the bottom.


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

MickiRig1;510929 said:


> You don't have cab clearance lights do you? Leaks on a truck can be like building roof leaks. The water runs down structures dripping away from the leak. I had a light that had a bad seal. Drove me nuts dripped at the steering wheel but leaked far the the left.


i do have roof clearance ligths as well but im almost positive ther not leaking. i think the leak is comming thru the center two bolts on the visor because water pools up there while the truck is parked then it comes in and leaks down through.


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

LawnProLandCare;511785 said:


> i do have roof clearance ligths as well but im almost positive ther not leaking. i think the leak is comming thru the center two bolts on the visor because water pools up there while the truck is parked then it comes in and leaks down through.


I don't understand why there aren't larger drain holes in those recesses, placed closer to the bottom. On an older lund, I don't believe I have the drains and on the newer moon visor I think they are up about a 1/4 inch or more from the bottom. I've often thought about drilling them larger to reach the bottom so no water collects.


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

QUOTE=streetsurfin';511790]I don't understand why there aren't larger drain holes in those recesses, placed closer to the bottom. On an older lund, I don't believe I have the drains and on the newer moon visor I think they are up about a 1/4 inch or more from the bottom. I've often thought about drilling them larger to reach the bottom so no water collects.[/QUOTE]

im taking the visor off tomaroe, putting new inserts in to thread the bolts into, drilling bigger drain holes in the recesses then reinstalling bolts with locktite and silicone.. the switch dried out once, it just got messed up again so hopefully it will dry it's self out and fix itself again :angry:


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## W8N4snow (Mar 2, 2007)

Water is persistant stuff. It'll get in where ever it can. I heard a wind noise and couldn't figure it out. Just happened to be driving and went to adjust the mirror and it MOVED! I pushed on it again and the windshield pushed out alittle. It didn't come loose, just flexed out. Seems that the black paint that's around the edges came loose from the glass and allowed wind and water to seep past. I was able to fix the top temporarily, but the windshield has a mark in it from a bad wiper blade at one time so I'll wait for a stone chip or something to completely remove it. It was leaking from the top edge and running down the windshield on the inside. I didn't know if you'd checked the seal itself yet. I have an '01 F350 with clearance lights but no visor.

Seems every auto company has had problems with the primer and/or polyurethane adhesive for their windshields at one time or another.


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

W8N4snow;520692 said:


> Water is persistant stuff. It'll get in where ever it can. I heard a wind noise and couldn't figure it out. Just happened to be driving and went to adjust the mirror and it MOVED! I pushed on it again and the windshield pushed out alittle. It didn't come loose, just flexed out. Seems that the black paint that's around the edges came loose from the glass and allowed wind and water to seep past. I was able to fix the top temporarily, but the windshield has a mark in it from a bad wiper blade at one time so I'll wait for a stone chip or something to completely remove it. It was leaking from the top edge and running down the windshield on the inside. I didn't know if you'd checked the seal itself yet. I have an '01 F350 with clearance lights but no visor.
> 
> Seems every auto company has had problems with the primer and/or polyurethane adhesive for their windshields at one time or another.


funny you should mention that. yesterday i pulled it in the garage pulled the visor off, pulled the headliner and everything out of the truck and amazingly the clearance lights and visor holes were clean, no rust or other signs of other water leaking throug. i start checking other places and find the windshield was sealed like crap the last time it was replaced which was right before i bought the truck.  soo now its sitting outside with the cab tarped waiting to get in the shop to have the windshield re-sealed


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## W8N4snow (Mar 2, 2007)

..and my relays were buzzing yesterday during our melt which means I get to re-seal it at the earliest possible break in the weather. My window sealant seemed thin, like an aftermarket job. I've watched new windshields being installed in the Louisville KY Ford plant and their Poly adhesive is thick when applied by the robot arm, the bead sits up in a peak and isn't runny. I know the aftermarket 3M adhesive I used to fix mine was thin and runny and might not have done the best job. I also had my mat out and it seemed like it was unusually wet underneath.


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

W8N4snow;520837 said:


> ..and my relays were buzzing yesterday during our melt which means I get to re-seal it at the earliest possible break in the weather. My window sealant seemed thin, like an aftermarket job. I've watched new windshields being installed in the Louisville KY Ford plant and their Poly adhesive is thick when applied by the robot arm, the bead sits up in a peak and isn't runny. I know the aftermarket 3M adhesive I used to fix mine was thin and runny and might not have done the best job. I also had my mat out and it seemed like it was unusually wet underneath.


u think the relays buzzing is bad, about 8 am yesterday i get woke up by my truck horn so i had to run outside and disconnect the battery terminal then locate the fuse for the horn and yank that, my multi function swithch is shot again when i shut the truck off the heat and stuff will stay on until i turn it to off on the panel, and the check engine light came on so i got my code reader out and have a bad vehicle speed sensor which i already knew due to my speedo jumpin all over. im going to find what shop did this and go kick some teeth in. :angry:


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## W8N4snow (Mar 2, 2007)

I don't think you can trust the codes with all of that water getting in. My OD light was flashing on my shifter and my blower wouldn't shut off as well which was when I figured I was getting water behind the dash. I had to disconnect the battery to finish my salter install and when I reconnected it after a couple of hours, all was well, no flashin, buzzing or OD code thrown. I still need to fix the main leak though.


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

W8N4snow;521043 said:


> I don't think you can trust the codes with all of that water getting in. My OD light was flashing on my shifter and my blower wouldn't shut off as well which was when I figured I was getting water behind the dash. I had to disconnect the battery to finish my salter install and when I reconnected it after a couple of hours, all was well, no flashin, buzzing or OD code thrown. I still need to fix the main leak though.


maybe i will disconnect the battery and leave it that way overnight. my truck has ALL the same symptoms as yours with the od light and such.


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## LawnProLandscapes (Nov 15, 2007)

im lost now. brought it to the glass shop and they took a gander at it and said they see nothing wrong with the windshield or the seal... idk


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## W8N4snow (Mar 2, 2007)

I could see a trickle of water down the inside of my windshield. When I went to clean off the old adhesive, it flaked off. Not sure if it was the primer or p!ss poor adhesive that had dried out. I tried to get as much off from the area I sealed as possible, but there were areas I couldn't reach without lifting on the glass and possibly causing it to crack. My rubber edge that trims the glass to the truck exterior had come loose and someone had tried to re-glue it to the glass. I took off the inside grab handles and trim from the "A" pillars for access to the side seal area. I had to pull the glass out and away 1/2" and prop it with shims, clean the glass, clean the inside of the rubber/plastic trim piece, apply windshield prep primer, wait for that to dry, apply windshield adhesive to the body opening, set down the windshield and re-glue the trim piece back onto the outer edge of the glass. Whew! 
Inside, the headliner overlaps the windshield seal coming up to the glass so it looks like a finished edge. Water will drip from the seal onto the headliner and run all over from there. I'd say take off the headliner and pour water over the top of the truck at the windshield then look for a trickle. You may need to spot-seal one area. Wait for a warm day so it doesn't freeze up on contact, you want it to work like it always does when it rains or melts. Keep it on a level surface. You may need to build a "dam" so the water pools a little to speed up the leak so you can find it.

Maybe we've got a new use for Fluid Film here! Spray the GEM module under the dash so no water gets in!  Dano?


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