# Need to raise my 01 2500HD one inch!



## papashaq (Sep 22, 2005)

Hi all, I have a 2001 2500HD Crew cab, short box with the 6.0, 4x4. No plow package. I also have an 06 Boss 8'2" V plow with smart hitch. My problem is my truck front end sits to low and my plow doesn't sit down flush to the pavement while in the v position. The mount is supposed to sit something like 14" from the ground with out plow on and I am sitting at about 13". I took the plow and truck back into the dealer and made some adjustments as best he could to try and level it out, but still doesn't sit right. But that doesn't change the fact that my mount is still to low and it is as high as it can go. 

So I need to raise my truck up about one inch in the front. I currently am running just stock suspension. No timbrens or anything. To my knowledge no front suspension parts have been replaced either. How can I get that extra inch I need to sit at the right height with out the plow on. Would timbrens help me raise it at all? Any help would be appreciated, what is my best solution here.

Anyone else running a Boss V with this truck? Do you have the same problem?


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## Team ReadyLift (Aug 14, 2009)

Being the truck is an '01, chances are good that your torsion bars have weakened over time and thus causes the truck to sag. Usually this happens to one bar before another and usually the drivers side, but it can happen to both equally too. Its not an uncommon problem on older torsion bar trucks. If you are one inch too low up front you will need to adjust the suspension more than one inch to achieve one inch of lift. By that I mean simply adjusting the torsion keys to compensate for both the possibly weakened torsion bars and to get the desired lift (and then factor in your plow set up weight too), you'll have to adjust MORE than what you think to get 1".
Of course I'm going to recommend this:
http://www.readylift.com/c-37-silverado-15002500hd-2000-2009-2wd-4wd-8-lug-25.aspx

Aside from replacing your torsion bars which could be required if they are really weakened, I think you will be able to achieve the results you are looking for without messing up the ride quality.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Put 3-4 full turns in the Torsion bars, add a set of Timbrens and all will be good. :salute:


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## Q101ATFD (Oct 24, 2006)

Add a set of timbrens, and read the documentation for that plow. IIRC, there is an adjustment for the profile of the plow on the ground. Check page 8 of the manual here...


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## bsuds (Sep 11, 2008)

Crank your t bars, run some timbrens, and get bigger tires. This should raise you up and keep you up to where you need to be.


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## jeff52984 (Sep 25, 2009)

I did 4 turns of my torsion bars on my 01 2500hd but I do have the biggest tires you can fit on my truck think they are 285 75 16


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

B&B;801015 said:


> Put 3-4 full turns in the Torsion bars, add a set of Timbrens and all will be good. :salute:


 This is spot on, one note mark a spot on your bolt head and the spacer so you can keep track of the number of turns as you crank them. Also if you jack the front end up off the ground it will be a lot easier and remember to use jack stands.

Good Luck Mike


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

flykelley;817024 said:


> This is spot on, one note mark a spot on your bolt head and the spacer so you can keep track of the number of turns as you crank them.
> Good Luck Mike


 I write the before hand hub to fender measurement (as well as the amount of turns I placed in the bars) down in the glove box with a sharpie. Leaves the info permanent with the trucks and easy to read for future reference if/when ever needed.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

While the leveling kit will certainly raise the front of the truck, it will not increase the spring rate of the torsion bar. Timbrens will actually take some of the weight off the torsion bars. This is the only way to reduce sag when you lift the blade, except of course stronger T-bars.


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## azandy (Oct 15, 2008)

The center of the hole on the truck mount where the plow pins snap into need to be 15.5" from the ground. Raise your front end enough to obtain this. Keep in mind if you crank up the front end torsion bars four or more turns, your camber will be off and should be alligned.


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## EXR (Apr 1, 2009)

A front end leveling kit is the only way to solve this. 
I had one installed in my old truck and was able to turn down the tbars to reduce stress on them at the same time raise the front end 2". 
I have a level kit ordered for my dmax crew cab. Its the only way to operate with a plow on a gm...which is my 2nd biggest issue with gm. Why do they have front ends so low on all their 4wd's.  Ford and dodge do not have this issue as much.

Biggest issue is the wheel and tire size. The tires on my 2500 are one size up from my wife's escape. Its a joke, they look funny on such a big truck.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Adjusting the keys does not change the stress on the T-bars. The stress is equal to the weight carried by the T-bar. No more, no less.


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## aeronutt (Sep 24, 2008)

EXR;819814 said:


> A front end leveling kit is the only way to solve this.
> I had one installed in my old truck and was able to turn down the tbars to *reduce stress on them* at the same time raise the front end 2".


This is a common misconception, but it is false. Laws of physics cannot be broken by a leveling kit. Leveling kits are nothing but re-indexed keys. With a leveling kit you get the same effect as cranking the bolt, but with the added benefit of stimulating the economy by giving away money. Either way you do it, you twist the back of the bar a few extra degrees, which in turn rotates the lower control arm down a few degrees, which results in the truck's static ride being a bit higher. Niether leveling kits nor cranking the bolts changes the weight that the front suspension is supporting. Front end weight equals stress on torsion bars no matter how high the truck sits. It's not a bad thing, that's how they are engineered.

There are only 3 ways to reduce the stress on the torsion bars: 1) Remove weight. 2) Add Timbrens. 3) Add air shocks.

For the original poster: I'm a fan of Timbrens, a few turns on the bolts (oil them before turning and jack up the front first), and 265 tires. In that order.


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## EXR (Apr 1, 2009)

I suppose you're right about the weight. My comment was meant that I was able to not turn my tbars up and have the front end up a couple inches.


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## jimspro (Oct 9, 2009)

I have 3 2500's with duramax's in them and all have boss 8'6" v-blades, we installed tiberons and taller tires when we get the trucks, that way you do not have to mess with the t-bars, of having to realign the front end, this will keep a smoother ride when not having the plow on the truck, unlike adjusting the t-bars empty ride is like.


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

Trailer tires ?????????


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

He said taller tires. Bigger.


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

OPPs my misread !!!!!


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## BrewCityTommy (Aug 7, 2009)

aeronutt;820740 said:


> This is a common misconception, but it is false. Laws of physics cannot be broken by a leveling kit. Leveling kits are nothing but re-indexed keys. With a leveling kit you get the same effect as cranking the bolt, but with the added benefit of stimulating the economy by giving away money. Either way you do it, you twist the back of the bar a few extra degrees, which in turn rotates the lower control arm down a few degrees, which results in the truck's static ride being a bit higher. Niether leveling kits nor cranking the bolts changes the weight that the front suspension is supporting. Front end weight equals stress on torsion bars no matter how high the truck sits. It's not a bad thing, that's how they are engineered.
> 
> There are only 3 ways to reduce the stress on the torsion bars: 1) Remove weight. 2) Add Timbrens. 3) Add air shocks.
> 
> For the original poster: I'm a fan of Timbrens, a few turns on the bolts (oil them before turning and jack up the front first), and 265 tires. In that order.


i just gor a snowdogg v on today and i cant even get in my driveway now-its scraping right away and its the mount not the blade. i see talk of 14"- from the ground to the lift frame or mount. i dont have any ballast in yet and stock suspension, but im worried-how can i plow snow if i cant even get past the ramp into the lot. will timbrens help a problem of this magnitude, or should i go to the dealer and complain that they didnt realize that something wasnt right??? im a newb and this is my first plow-i thought a 2500 hd with plow prep would be plenty, but i guess not.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

BrewCityTommy;849532 said:


> i just gor a snowdogg v on today and i cant even get in my driveway now-its scraping right away and its the mount not the blade. i see talk of 14"- from the ground to the lift frame or mount. i dont have any ballast in yet and stock suspension, but im worried-how can i plow snow if i cant even get past the ramp into the lot. will timbrens help a problem of this magnitude, or should i go to the dealer and complain that they didnt realize that something wasnt right??? im a newb and this is my first plow-i thought a 2500 hd with plow prep would be plenty, but i guess not.


Your dealer should have adjusted your t-bars for you. Also sounds like Timbrens are in order. Unless there is a problem with the plow installation. I have no idea how low the plow frame should be on a SnowDogg


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## aeronutt (Sep 24, 2008)

Timbrens will make a real difference. That's why there's about 5000 threads on here telling people "Put two Timbrens on and call me in the morning." Between Timbrens and 5 full turns on the tortion bar bolts, you should be sitting at least as high as before mounting the plow. 

The other part of the equation is ballast. Don't just throw heavy crap back there though. Plan carefully to get the maximum weight transfer possible by placing heavy crap as far back as possible. Heavy crap in front of the rear axle does no good because it's adding some weight to the front axle too. Heavy crap placed several feet behind the rear axle will remove several hundred pounds from the front axle thanks to the see-saw effect. The farther back you put it, the less you need. 1000 lbs of solid concrete blocks stacked against the tailgate is not too much for a 2500HD truck. Don't forget to tie it down so it doesn't become a projectile in the event of an accident! I think the ultimate ballast is if you can figure out a way to hang tractor weights off the trailer hitch.


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## BrewCityTommy (Aug 7, 2009)

Team ReadyLift;801007 said:


> Being the truck is an '01, chances are good that your torsion bars have weakened over time and thus causes the truck to sag. Usually this happens to one bar before another and usually the drivers side, but it can happen to both equally too. Its not an uncommon problem on older torsion bar trucks. If you are one inch too low up front you will need to adjust the suspension more than one inch to achieve one inch of lift. By that I mean simply adjusting the torsion keys to compensate for both the possibly weakened torsion bars and to get the desired lift (and then factor in your plow set up weight too), you'll have to adjust MORE than what you think to get 1".
> Of course I'm going to recommend this:
> http://www.readylift.com/c-37-silverado-15002500hd-2000-2009-2wd-4wd-8-lug-25.aspx
> 
> Aside from replacing your torsion bars which could be required if they are really weakened, I think you will be able to achieve the results you are looking for without messing up the ride quality.


are your kits fairly simple to install-im no mechanic, but im not an idiot either. i was deciding betwen your product and timbrens...my 03 hd is waaaaay low with a snowdodd vx 85, and te tires are scraping the wheel well as i have bigger tires-would your product also be beneficial if i already have timbrens- or would one or the other be useful-please any help, i should have my truck set-up already!


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## BrewCityTommy (Aug 7, 2009)

aeronutt;850250 said:


> Timbrens will make a real difference. That's why there's about 5000 threads on here telling people "Put two Timbrens on and call me in the morning." Between Timbrens and 5 full turns on the tortion bar bolts, you should be sitting at least as high as before mounting the plow.
> 
> The other part of the equation is ballast. Don't just throw heavy crap back there though. Plan carefully to get the maximum weight transfer possible by placing heavy crap as far back as possible. Heavy crap in front of the rear axle does no good because it's adding some weight to the front axle too. Heavy crap placed several feet behind the rear axle will remove several hundred pounds from the front axle thanks to the see-saw effect. The farther back you put it, the less you need. 1000 lbs of solid concrete blocks stacked against the tailgate is not too much for a 2500HD truck. Don't forget to tie it down so it doesn't become a projectile in the event of an accident! I think the ultimate ballast is if you can figure out a way to hang tractor weights off the trailer hitch.


thanks much-your feedback is greatly appreciated


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## jimspro (Oct 9, 2009)

i would check with the manufacture of the plow and see what they say the clearance should be, i had a boss 9.2 installed on a new one ton gm last year, and i had them add the tiberons before the plow. they installed the plow wrong, and they installed timberons for a 1/2 ton truck in both front and rear, took it back and they corrected it, one other thing i have done in the past is put new taller tires on it right away, i was able to get a couple inches more of clerance doing that, and got a good trade value from the tires that came with the truck


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## ed39 (Oct 9, 2007)

leveling kit 33s and timbrens and your all set


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