# 96 OBS 460 gasser - leaking manifold



## Flyboy77 (Jun 23, 2014)

Question for those that like to preserver the older trucks. My driver side exhaust manifolds is leaking kind of heavy. Price to replace both was quoted as $1200. Labor on it was $210 (if no bolts break/need extracting, have been coating with PB). The manifold was $455 and some air pipe (not sold locally has to order online) was $300 from the shop in the estimate. The labor price and rate is good, the parts price is higher than I'd like.

I realize owning older trucks require more work and better off financially to repair yourself. I saw an exhaust manifold on Amazon for $155 and RockAuto.com for about $200. I think I'm going to do this myself or at least source the parts myself and remove the exhaust manifold and handle any broken bolts/studs.

What is the preferred method to get the parts when no longer sold by Ford?
Should I even consider used/junk yard, possibly with a machine shop resurface?


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## Jeep_thing (Mar 3, 2014)

Are you prepared to drill out many hardened exhaust bolts from the cylinder head? If you run into trouble are you skilled to replace the cylinder head? Just looking ahead for ya...


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## Flyboy77 (Jun 23, 2014)

I saw how to do it on youtube and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...
:laugh:


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

When I replace manifolds on about anything I try bolts/nuts lightly first. If the don't move they get torched. Then once manifold is removed you are left with little studs sticking out of head. Again I see if they will turn now with little torque, if not I weld nuts on. Heat around them and back them out. Have yet to snap one off in the head.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Good advice above, the 460 is prone to warped manifolds, the passenger side seems to be worse. For that reason, don't waste time on junk yard parts. Your local machine shop may or may not be able to machine them down. The air passage for the egr injection is close to the surface so they will only go so far. Bettter off starting fresh with new. ( Just one guy's opinion )


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Don't even think about used. Get new after market. This ain't no quick job if you've never done one before.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Just for the sake of trying, ( machine shop said mine were beyond what they would try. ) so I set out to do my own. Good straight edge and 36 grit on my belt sander. Marked them out and went at it. Seemed good, no leaks until about 2500 miles on the engine. One other note, i got a lot of mixed info on weather the 460 used exhaust man. Gaskets or not, some did some (years) didn't. I used a Fel-Pro set.


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

My old girl Matilda blew a stud on the passenger side. The plan here is to pull the engine, and replace with new manifolds and studs, and do the oil pan while we're at it. Like everyone else has said, new manifolds are the way to go, and Rock Auto seems to have the best price. Also, did ya notice that the ones for the 5.8 are only like $80 each from EVERYHWERE! Lol


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Once again folks. Attempting to drill out broken studs or bolts is bad advice. Weld a nut to it. I have not drilled out any broken fasteners in 10 years I have been doing this. Oh, I lied, I drilled a broken fastener from a plow manifold a few weeks ago, cause the owner attempted to drill it out and ruined my chances of welding a nut to the broken fastener. If you don't have a welder, find someone who does.
T.J.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Was even able to get these broken studs out by welding a nut to them. Also if you do have a broken stud don't wait to long to repair it. This guy waited way too long and ended up damaging the mating surface on the head from the manifold vibrating against it.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

kimber750 said:


> Was even able to get these broken studs out by welding a nut to them. Also if you do have a broken stud don't wait to long to repair it. This guy waited way too long and ended up damaging the mating surface on the head from the manifold vibrating against it.
> 
> View attachment 169981


I can usually tell Fords coming up my street without even looking. The difinitive exhaust leak sound gives it away. Fun times the 5.4s and the V-10s.


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## Flyboy77 (Jun 23, 2014)

I have a flux-core MIG 135A (110v) or a AC/DC 230A/150A stick (220v). 
Will the 110v MIG be sufficient with enough amps to weld the nut on? Or which process did you use?

The MIG hot glue gun for metal is certainly the easiest. And what I used for my bed carriage bolt removals. I guess those took a big breaker bar pressure with enough tries at rewelding. I'd be a little more nervous at the heads than I was on the bed.


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## Flyboy77 (Jun 23, 2014)

Not exactly sure where the leak is, but towards the back.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Those look to be in pretty good shape. Your mig should be more than enough if needed, provided you know how to use it.


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## Flyboy77 (Jun 23, 2014)

I've been soaking them with PB Blaster to help ease them out. Boy, did I stink the whole house up with that first coat on the warm manifolds sprayed in the garage. All future applications applied outside. 

My welding know how has been trial and error, but have bees able to get some decent looking beads on projects.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Flyboy77 said:


> I've been soaking them with PB Blaster to help ease them out. Boy, did I stink the whole house up with that first coat on the warm manifolds sprayed in the garage. All future applications applied outside.
> 
> My welding know how has been trial and error, but have bees able to get some decent looking beads on projects.


Penetration will be more important in this case. You will want to transfer as much heat as possible to part you are trying to remove as possible without distorting the nut you are welding on. I have pics posted in my 7.3 thread of a pipe plug I welded a nut to.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Not a fan of 110v MIGs. But possibly in a pinch it might work. I would crank that thing up all the way when doing this process if one of those breaks.


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

buy new manifolds or shorty headers


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Fwiw I used stainless steel bolts, nothing like thinking ahead , try to wire wheel the broken stud, if you have to weld a nut to it, it will make the nut stick better, this process works awsome .I also used a little anti seize on the new bolts


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

I mostly TIG in these situations when I can. I have a nice short backcap on my tig torch and allows me to get into tight places. This allows me to really preheat the stud without any filler, then I either build up the stud if it is broken below the surface, then I weld a nut on it.


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