# Auger rusted onto a snowex 1075 and 575.



## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Anyone know what to do if the auger is rusted on? 

Of course the allen hex bolt stripped out even after using pb. I tried soaking it again and using a screw extractor but that didnt work either. Should i try to just drill it out with a normal drill?

I dont want to mess up the shaft, but i need to get this off.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Remove the hopper and take a torch to it.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Already have the whole housing off. And i dont have a torch. So plan C?


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

maelawncare;901305 said:


> Already have the whole housing off. And i dont have a torch. So plan C?


Use a grinder and cut it off.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Use a cut off wheel not a grinding wheel.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

But wouldnt that cut my shaft from the transmission? So i would have to buy a new transmission and a new auger


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## Deco (Nov 14, 2009)

thats what happens when you drive them hard and put them away dirty ... 

try douching your equipment before you store. diesel fuel works well


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

I bought it used. So the loser before me didnt know wtf they were doing. I dont understand how people cant just clean their equipment. Pisses me off.


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## misanthrope (Nov 3, 2003)

Try one of the torch kits from home depo with the push button ligniter.... get the yellow 1lb can i think it burns a little hotter. My friend had to use a torch on mine to get it off. I never-seized the living piss out of it once it was cleaned up.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Ok i will try that. Are you saying to cut it off with the torch? Or heat it up and see that works.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

maelawncare just drill out the set screw if you have stripped the head out. Just dont drill thru the shaft. We use a 5/16 SS as a replacement in place of the 1/4 20 set screw.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

So bad news for me.

If the SS gets rusted in and you have to drill it out. Your screwed. The SS goes inside the shaft so thers no way to get it all the drilled out w/o drilling through the shaft.

So i am screwed, this ******* that i bought it from backed into something. Bent the housing so bad that the transmission sits off. Causing the auger to rub on the container. Which is why i needed to take it off. So i could hammer out the housing straightening it. But now i have to cut the shaft in 2 places, cause of course the spinner is rusted on too. And order a transmission, auger, and spinner. All cause someone doesnt know how to back up.

Heres what the transmission looks like. And i might have to order the whole setup, drivetrain. Which is $738


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

maelawncare;902340 said:


> So bad news for me.
> 
> If the SS gets rusted in and you have to drill it out. Your screwed. The SS goes inside the shaft so thers no way to get it all the drilled out w/o drilling through the shaft.
> 
> ...


This sounds like this can be saved if you listen to me carefully.I've been doing this stuff forever on stubborn pump shafts,gears,pulleys,etc.
You most definitely need serious heat--acetylene is best but for that 1/4'' set screw,mapp gas[yellow canister] will do fine.Before you go to Home Depot/Lowes to buy your new torch,soak that set screw and shaft with your PB Blaster.When you get home,soak it again,then pour the heat on the SHAFT,NOT THE SCREW. Your intent here is to expand the hole that the screw is in.There will be some flames and a lot of smoke coming off the shaft so before you get to this step give your credit card to your wife or GF and send her off to her favorite jewelry store.It's only money--you'll get over it.This way she won't call the fire dep't. on your ass.As soon as you have that shaft EXTREMELY hot,get your easy out back in that hole you said you already drilled, and take it out. Good luck.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Too late for that. I got pissed and started cutting. Drive train worked just fine, but i was pissed and wanted to get it off. So now i am left with this :angry: And by the look at it the transmission might not have lasted much longer anyways. Bearings were pretty much shot.

I have the replacemetn list at $350 so far just for the auger and transmission. I already have a replacement spinner. But im not sure this housing is worth keeping. Its pretty banged up and rusty. I can get a whole new drive train for $738. With housing and everything. I dont want to drop $350 and then turn around and have to get everything else anyways.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

OUCH thats got to suck but sometimes you got to just do it. Now just move on and rebuild it good luck


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## brown (Sep 10, 2007)

This response is clearly too late for you, but maybe it will help someone else. I just rebuilt my SnowEx 1075 transmission and had a hard time getting the auger and spinner off. What worked for me, and works for most rusted parts, is to apply a healthy dose of PB and let it soak in. A day or so later apply heat in an effort to expand the outside unit (the auger or spinner in this case), but not the inner piece (the shaft). Then apply another dose of PB. The expanded outer piece will create a void for the PB to work its way inside. Also, the heat will actually draw the PB into the pieces. I had to drill both the auger allen screw and spinner bolt on my unit. The metal is thick enough to re-tap even up to a 3/8 16 thread. I still had to do some hammering on the shaft and had to grind the end of the shaft a little because I slightly deformed it by hammering. I was able to save everything and rebuilt the transmission with new bearings and seals. My transmission and motor were both full of sand when I got it and had almost polished the interior to a shine. Good luck.


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## Deco (Nov 14, 2009)

*my spinner shaft on the 1875 has been bent for 2 years now , bearings seem to be crying a bit ...im waiting for it to fly off :laughing:
throws a unique spread pattern now

trying to put off buying the whole trans myself*


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Just hope you dont have to buy other parts  My replacement parts will be in tomorrow or wed. I just ordered the whole drive train. So i'll basically have a whole new spreader.


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## Scottscape (Nov 27, 2005)

should have left it alone if it worked. These things are junk after 5-6 years even with washing and care. They will work BUT they will rust no matter what! I've got one that the damn frame rusted holes and some angle iron and some welds work great.

Then the control box goes, thats another 500.00. 

I just buy new ones once they junk and dont work at all


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## clark lawn (Oct 7, 2005)

find a local machine shop, i bent the shaft on mine and got a buddy that has a machine shop to replace the shaft only cost me about 30 bucks as opposed to 350


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Scottscape;905640 said:


> should have left it alone if it worked. These things are junk after 5-6 years even with washing and care. They will work BUT they will rust no matter what! I've got one that the damn frame rusted holes and some angle iron and some welds work great.
> 
> Then the control box goes, thats another 500.00.
> 
> I just buy new ones once they junk and dont work at all


What. I have a 575 thats almost 10 years old. Still running strong on the original motor and trans. Plus everything else is original. Wheres the knock on wood smilie  Oh and its the original controller box too. Maybe your just too hard on them and dont take enough care?

Wash, fluid film, and repaint as needed. And their last forever.

And i bought this 1075 used sight unseen. My first mistake  I have $800 in it. And i have to pay $723 for the new drive train. Housing, spinner, auger, transmission, motor everything down there. The old housing is just too badly bent to try and reuse. The old frame is getting sandblasted tomorrow and then repainted. So i'll have about $1600 in it and it will be brand new. Not too bad if you ask me. Considering a new one is a few hundred buck more.


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## SNOMACHINE (Dec 2, 2009)

Found this! Works twice as good as PB! Its called Deep Creep! This stuff is awesome!


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## J.R. Services (Aug 15, 2009)

I had the exact same problem with my 1075. I used a can of freeze off, didnt work, drilled it out and still had threads  I gave 500 bucks for it spent 200 to rebuild motor, got a good working 800# spreader for 700


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

Ok, so I've tried heating my auger, squirting with PB blaster, let it set. repeat. a LOT. Still nothing. I've tried a puller with a modified piece of angel iron notched out to pull against to try and tree the auger down the shaft. nothing. 

I've tried beating the auger corkscrews with a hand held sledge. nothing.

Any suggestions?!?


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Well $723 later i now have this. 

I like the new one. It came with a plastic spinner instead of metal so thats a plus. i dont like how they welded on nuts for some of the bolts. But i guess it makes it easier.

I already took it apart. I dont have any mud flaps laying around to put over the bearings for the tranny so i sprayed some FF on it. And while putting it back together i put some anti-seize on the set screw. That sucker wont get stuck on me EVER again.

And here are some detailed pics if anyone else runs across this. The hole for the auger is 3/16" if you ever need to drill it out. While the set screw, hmmm i cant remember the size of that. But its bigger.

Im thinking of adding some kind of curb guard to protect it this time too. Anyone have ideas?

Heres the pics.










I didnt like not having a bolt in there. But i guess this works.









The welded on nuts


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Hole for auger









And the hole









Spinner and auger off


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Well for the money it looks better then the other. I like the up grades they did on yours just find a piece of thin rubber to cover the shaft going into the housing below the spinner the mud flap is for behind the spinner for the deflector.I know it was a bunch of cash for the lower end but its all new now.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

fernalddude;910617 said:


> Well for the money it looks better then the other. I like the up grades they did on yours just find a piece of thin rubber to cover the shaft going into the housing below the spinner the mud flap is for behind the spinner for the deflector.I know it was a bunch of cash for the lower end but its all new now.


Yea its all new. I like that. And for what i paid the rest. I'll have a little over $1600 in it. Not too bad for basically a brand new 1075. Once i get the frame back from the sandblaster i'll post some more pics.


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

Sure is pretty! And to think.... it won't look like that long! You'll make that $700+ back in no time. Thats what I kept telling myself as I saw the $$$ adding up (potentially). 

I do like the upgrades as well!


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## roggie (Dec 11, 2009)

sorry to here about all you guys troubles, but maybe someone can help me with mine,my auger is rusty, as is the shaft, but works o k my problem is the moter is shot. It stsrted acting up last yr,I got it out and somewhat apart cleaned it up as best I could and got through the season.sometimes I had to kinda kick spin it , toget er goining, but once spinning we'd get er done. But thats not working this yr. so I need motor, if anybody's got a good one i'm interested, or a contact where to get one or have rebuilt ??? If ya could post something , or email or call------------- [email protected] 262-210-6426 THANKS IN ADVANCE ''ROGGIE"


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

I have a spare motor. its the only good thing left 

But from what it sounds like, your problem is normal. If you have to go back and manually turn the spinner when the hopper is full of salt, thats normal. When driving around or loading, just the weight of the salt can make the auger get stuck. And the drive trains not strong enough to break free. Happens to both of mine. After you manually free it, if it runs fine till the next lot. Its normal.

Now if its different than than. Then it could be either the motor or transmission. Or you cable. Check you connection and make sure you have a lot of dielectric grease on it.


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## roggie (Dec 11, 2009)

*1075 auger motor*

thanks for the respond my moter needed manual starting loaded or not am sure its toeasted do you want to sell the one you have ???? if so , let me know what you need for it thanks much have a good XMAS


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## deere615 (Jun 1, 2007)

I redid my 575 a little while back I will get pictures up eventually. But my set screw on the auger was stuck also. My buddy welded a nut right on to it and spun it right out it was pretty cool and a good idea for anyone that runs into a stuck screw like that


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

deere615;912158 said:


> I redid my 575 a little while back I will get pictures up eventually. But my set screw on the auger was stuck also. My buddy welded a nut right on to it and spun it right out it was pretty cool and a good idea for anyone that runs into a stuck screw like that


I was thinking about that. I had to do that with one of my bed bolts. But the set screw is so small i was worried about welding it onto the auger.

If you ever take the set screw out. Make sure you put anti-seize on it before you put it back in.


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## deere615 (Jun 1, 2007)

maelawncare;912532 said:


> I was thinking about that. I had to do that with one of my bed bolts. But the set screw is so small i was worried about welding it onto the auger.
> 
> If you ever take the set screw out. Make sure you put anti-seize on it before you put it back in.


yeah I had mine half drilled out too so it was just a tiny little thing but my friend weld right on to it! I was amazed because I probably wouldnt have been able to do it


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Well i got it put back together about 2 weeks ago. Heres what the frame looked like after i got it back from the sandblaster. I'll get pics of the spreader put back together tomorrow.


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## Niallfay232 (Nov 10, 2019)

I have a sniwex 1875 salt spreader and I want to get out the auger motor to replace it on one of my salt spreader and then I want to replace my motor that gas the shift on the spinner I of course got used again my auger motor I think is sized because the auger just click nit moving but when I feel tge auger motor top it gets so hot how do I replace it


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## Fourteen Contracting Inc. (Jul 5, 2019)

Niallfay232 said:


> I have a sniwex 1875 salt spreader and I want to get out the auger motor to replace it on one of my salt spreader and then I want to replace my motor that gas the shift on the spinner I of course got used again my auger motor I think is sized because the auger just click nit moving but when I feel tge auger motor top it gets so hot how do I replace it


It's probably not the motor that is seized but the actual augur shaft seized to the bearing. You can take off the motor and test it independent of the augur transmission but you'll probably find that it is fine.

Here's are schematic on your salter (just find your appropriate model #)

http://library.snowexproducts.com/default.asp?cat=29


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Niallfay232 said:


> I have a sniwex 1875 salt spreader and I want to get out the auger motor to replace it on one of my salt spreader and then I want to replace my motor that gas the shift on the spinner I of course got used again my auger motor I think is sized because the auger just click nit moving but when I feel tge auger motor top it gets so hot how do I replace it


Wat..!!!?


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

You can also get a pipe wrench on the shaft and gently free it up working it back and forth to see if its just crusty.spray the bearing down with lube and pump some grease into it first. Alot of these that I have come across the bearing was never greased. It was in a hidden spot that alot of guys that were new to them never even knew it had one.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Deco said:


> *my spinner shaft on the 1875 has been bent for 2 years now , bearings seem to be crying a bit ...im waiting for it to fly off :laughing:
> throws a unique spread pattern now
> 
> trying to put off buying the whole trans myself*


Mine is bent on my 1075 too. It is frustrating when the auger wedges a granule of bigger salt and it jams and beeps, but not enough to have fixed it. I just use calcium chloride instead the smaller granules go through better.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

maelawncare said:


> I have a spare motor. its the only good thing left
> 
> But from what it sounds like, your problem is normal. If you have to go back and manually turn the spinner when the hopper is full of salt, thats normal. When driving around or loading, just the weight of the salt can make the auger get stuck. And the drive trains not strong enough to break free. Happens to both of mine. After you manually free it, if it runs fine till the next lot. Its normal.
> 
> Now if its different than than. Then it could be either the motor or transmission. Or you cable. Check you connection and make sure you have a lot of dielectric grease on it.


I did some experiments with a baffle in the we hopper to keep the weight off the middle where the auger is and that helped with this.
I don't have we any pictures and don't remember exactly what I did.


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## sNOwproblem1 (Oct 25, 2020)

I just went through that. Drilled out set screw. Remove auger then drill and tap shaft 1/4 20 ..works great


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