# Anybody Build their Own Spreader Control Box???



## EvenCutLawnCare (Aug 12, 2008)

Maybe im missing something but it seems that with some heavy duty toggle/rocker swithes and variable speed switches that a person could build the own spreder controller....? Anybody attempted this?


----------



## forestfireguy (Oct 7, 2006)

I did it for a western 1000 last year. got a HD rheostat from the auto parts store, a lighted toggle, a "project box" at radio shack and a computer cooling fan. It worked pretty well. But it did get really hot, even with the fan, should have used a bigger box and fan to increase air flow around the rheostat. It cost me about 45 dollars all done and is still working today.


----------



## EvenCutLawnCare (Aug 12, 2008)

Awesome! thanks for the quick reply....I just cant justify spending 500+ bucks on a new one to replace my junk Snowex. I also got a great deal on two more spreaders without controlleras for my other truck so Id rather not drop 1500 bucks on controllers and harnesses if I dont Have to! Got any pics of the one you buuilt?


----------



## forestfireguy (Oct 7, 2006)

No........sorry. But it took about an hour to put together. Like I said, make sure you use a big enough box to not crowd anything, wires will become really hot and may fuse together. If you'll be running these alot, 2 would be a good idea in case one fails.


----------



## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

you can build them with the reostate. 

another option is to use a 3 way toggle switch, and ceramic resistors... you can play with the resistance to find the 3 settings that you like.. after all, im pretty sure most of us do that anyway with our dials....that is find a number or a setting we like and stick with it for the most part. By doing this you can make it happen for less than 20 bucks, and put the resistors out side the truck to keep cool. i did one for a friend 6 years aog, basicly he had a low/med/ high settings. Low was the width of the truck, med was about 3 feet to each side of the truck, high was no resitance, just dirrect 12 volts

The bad side, highly consider this, the control boxes you purchase, come with a built in circit protection to PROTECT your motors on your spreader...so yeah save 400 bucks now on your control, and spend it later when your spreader jams up and the motors burn up.....just a consideration for you.

a reverse switch is a nice thing to add to remove jams

most controller do this automatticly, but if you make your own its a good idea to start the spreader on high, then lower the speed. if not you can burn up the motor. you can build a circutit with a resistor, and capacitor and a relay to do this , for you.

also, the reosate will generat some heat, but not enough to the put that it will fuse the wires. your wires are either too small or your reostat is not rated to handel the amps. some heat is normall, if your too the point that things are burning up, your not useing the proper material. Western use to sell a ceramic reostat. it was pretty large, but never put on too much heat. your talking a good way to cause a fire. With the spreader on full, no added reistance, that is the most current (amps) that yoru spreader will draw (with salt in the hopper ,under load) /.....thus that shoud be as hot as things get. adding a reistance or a veriable resistance (reostat) will make the current draw go down, and produce less heat.... if yours is getting warm, i would check your reostat for its rating. 30amps, 12-14 volts, = 420 WATTS your parts, wires, switches ...ALL need to rate higher than EACH of these three numbers. 

this may be hard to find a resistor rated to handel this many watts, so you can use a few in parrelle. If any one wants the math lesson on OHMS law, on series and parrelle circuits , i will gladly post it


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

Anyone ever try this ?


----------



## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

What's your time worth screwing around hoping you get it right? And then have it break in the middle of an event?


----------



## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Most of the electric salters have control modules as well that you will have to disconnect or bypass as the current will fry them. The control modules are what reverses or stops the spreader in the event of a jam. If this doesn't happen you are not fast enough to turn it off to save your chain/ sprockets/ gate from breaking. If this isnt a worry for you go for it.
I have limped a electric spreader through an event with jumpers straight to the motor, the heat welded the jumpers to the battery.


----------



## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

I used a rheostat that was too small, burned out the motor. One thing that I did use that worked well was a foot switch for an electric trolling motor to run it with my left foot.


----------



## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

Mr.Markus said:


> Most of the electric salters have control modules as well that you will have to disconnect or bypass as the current will fry them. The control modules are what reverses or stops the spreader in the event of a jam. If this doesn't happen you are not fast enough to turn it off to save your chain/ sprockets/ gate from breaking. If this isnt a worry for you go for it.
> I have limped a electric spreader through an event with jumpers straight to the motor, the heat welded the jumpers to the battery.


Wait wait wait....
So I could have bypassed my module?!

Would the OEM controller still work, or do you need a "DIY" type like what's above?


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

JMHConstruction said:


> Wait wait wait....
> So I could have bypassed my module?!


Glad you picked up...
Thought you might like this post


----------



## racer47 (Feb 24, 2011)

after hearing all jmh problems with his spreader,and a buddy with a western tornado modules problems , is why i started looking for a spreader without the modules and was hopeing to here the good, the bad ,about the sno-way pde 800 any info would be great


----------



## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

Racer if you want simple and easy to work on saltdogg can't be much easier. Parts are cheap and easy to get also.

Just have a spare controller, and spare spinner motor.



JMHConstruction said:


> Wait wait wait....
> So I could have bypassed my module?!
> 
> Would the OEM controller still work, or do you need a "DIY" type like what's above?


It'd be a DIY.


----------



## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

JMHConstruction said:


> Wait wait wait....
> So I could have bypassed my module?!
> 
> Would the OEM controller still work, or do you need a "DIY" type like what's above?


No, your OEM controller won't work. You would need a battery hooked straight to the motor, everything else disconnected, sparks flying, your truck door open, fast feet and a prayer that no one pulls in front of you, then fast feet again to run to the back of your truck to disconnect it when you are done the site.
#Idontshovelsalt


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

Part of the reason for bring up an old post was due to a SnowEx sp-1575 I picked up. In great condition through auction but needs harness...which I expect to pick up and a controller.


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

Mr.Markus said:


> No, your OEM controller won't work. You would need a battery hooked straight to the motor, everything else disconnected, sparks flying, your truck door open, fast feet and a prayer that no one pulls in front of you, then fast feet again to run to the back of your truck to disconnect it when you are done the site.
> #Idontshovelsalt


Doubt he was serious


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

On a Call said:


> Part of the reason for bring up an old post was due to a SnowEx sp-1575 I picked up. In great condition through auction but needs harness...which I expect to pick up and a controller.


BTW...anyone know much about SnowEx
I am still planning on picking up a Dog though everyone needs at least one.


----------



## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

On a Call said:


> Doubt he was serious


I was a little. I was afraid to burn the motor by going directly to it. I assumed the module took some amps down or something.


----------



## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

On a Call said:


> Doubt he was serious


I seriously have done this, more than once, on a 1st gen western tornado....


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

JMHConstruction said:


> I was a little. I was afraid to burn the motor by going directly to it. I assumed the module took some amps down or something.


It does a lot. Protects from over load due to stopping, do not ask how I know. Also allow the right amperage with the correct voltage, this is important when unmatched you cause problems.

Think of electric as water...you can fill a pool with a garden hose or a fire hose, one can be turned on high or low however only one will do what you want


----------



## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

I may buy a set of jumper cables just for this. Maybe cut the positive cable and hook up a kill switch at the window or something. Obviously I am getting extra parts to keep on hand next season, but hell, you never know what might happen.

Hopefully I'll get a larger truck this year and can get another spreader to cover if one breaks down. Maybe even Jarretts 6."0h crap it's broke down again" :laugh:


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

Mr.Markus said:


> I seriously have done this, more than once, on a 1st gen western tornado....


Interesting....any problems ?

I did it and burned up at least two motors

Or...it was my employees fault


----------



## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

The old western is a one motor system, it runs both the conveyer and spinner with a 1/2 hp motor. Problems are people pull out in front of you and you are on full spread...full time.


----------



## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

Mr.Markus said:


> The old western is a one motor system, it runs both the conveyer and spinner with a 1/2 hp motor. Problems are people pull out in front of you and you are on full spread...full time.


Didn't think about the two motors..

There goes my idea.


----------



## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

JMHConstruction said:


> I may buy a set of jumper cables just for this. Maybe cut the positive cable and hook up a kill switch at the window or something. Obviously I am getting extra parts to keep on hand next season, but hell, you never know what might happen.
> 
> Hopefully I'll get a larger truck this year and can get another spreader to cover if one breaks down. Maybe even Jarretts 6."0h crap it's broke down again" :laugh:


I swear that truck has been just as reliable as any new truck I've owned. An 03 6.0 is supposedly the epitome of 6.0 problems and it was bulletproofed before we had any issues and it's been great.


----------



## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

I built multiple boxes for gas spreaders...

The new electronic with variable voltages and what not... not sure how that will go.


----------



## On a Call (Jan 14, 2015)

John_DeereGreen said:


> I swear that truck has been just as reliable as any new truck I've owned. An 03 6.0 is supposedly the epitome of 6.0 problems and it was bulletproofed before we had any issues and it's been great.


10 4 
I have two 6.4's both are rocking having about 250 k on them


----------



## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

I'm having a hard time making the decision to mount a spreader box into my new truck. Was hoping to use the factory toggle switches with heavy duty relays. Electric conveyer electric spinner type spreader.


----------



## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

A friend had a single motor ss ice-o-way.No controller.He used a large on/off battery cut off switch. It ran on high all the time, he adjusted the rate by opening or closing the gate.Worked for him on that type of salter, very simple, worry free set up.


----------

