# Questions locking down (down pressure) my Blizzard 810



## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Hi everyone. I'm new to plowing, new to this equipment, new to Plowsite and this is my first post. I have a Blizzard 810 attached to a 2006 Ford F350. Preparing for first use, everything seems to work fine. So upon first use, I discovered what I think is a problem. No matter what I do at the controller, snow pushes the moldboard up. It behaves the same whether or not the moldboard is all the way down or if I have it partially raised. It behaves the same whether I do nothing with the controller or if I hold the DOWN switch down. Reading the factory literature, there's no mention on this in their troubleshooting section. Scanning the Internet, I found such phrases as "float" and "downpressure" which seem related to my issue, but no specific recommendations on how to check. So here's what I know. The user's manual mentions float in identifying the solenoids, but nowhere else. Nowhere does it explain exactly what FLOAT is, how the equipment creates FLOAT is or how its turned on or off. On my controller, which is just a switch box, there is a UP/DOWN switch which drops the blade, but no "float" function. When plowing, I tried both leaving the DOWN switch alone and holding it down. No difference. The UP function seems to work fine as do all the other features. I can raise the blade partially and plow all day long, but the blade still lifts with any load. If I leave the moldboard up, it stays no problem. Shouldn't the moldboard lock in the down position? Is there something in the controller I should be doing? After studying the schematics, I first thought to look to the cylinder as leaking, but it locks UP fine and holds fine. No leaks. So, next I figured the cylinder is probably fine and maybe I have a stuck or leaking solenoid or worse, something wrong in the manifold. My next step was going to be to test the solenoids for power at the down and float solenoids and then pull them to learn how they operate and then test..... which is when I decided its time to write and ask for help. I guess my main questions are: Shouldn't I be able to lock the moldboard down or in position? If so, am I correct to suspect the solenoids? Should any of them be powered to lock the moldboard down? Am I even asking the right questions? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, everyone. Jim


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

I don’t think your plow has down pressure or can be “locked” down. Float simple means plow will float or contour the ground, slight up and down changes in the pavement. If plow is riding up it could be a few things. Pictures would help. Check attack angle. Truck sit low? Cutting edge worn low?


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Western1 said:


> I don't think your plow has down pressure or can be "locked" down. Float simple means plow will float or contour the ground, slight up and down changes in the pavement. If plow is riding up it could be a few things. Pictures would help. Check attack angle. Truck sit low? Cutting edge worn low?


Thanks for the quick response. I'll take some pics in the next hour and post them. Jim


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Sounds good


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Pictures, sir. As requested. Thanks again. Jim


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Another observation that might be helpful. It has feet on it. Almost everything out here is gravel or road base. I personally don't have an opinion on using them or not though I've read there's many different opinions and looking around, some of the other operators don't use them at all. One old timer told me they're not needed so long as I take my time, pay attention to what I'm doing and adjust the height as needed. They're currently set to hold the base edge about 2 inches off the ground.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Well that’s a big factor. What I meant by attack angle is the angle at which plow cutting edge meets the pavement or ground. By having the shoes adjusted that high up will affect that. Looks like the cutting edge is worn down as well? Should be about 6 inches tall. Can you confirm? Plow is riding up? Or is not scraping to the ground?


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Next time you plow take the shoes off and plow some pavement,cement or asphalt. Then report back.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

"Plow is riding up" is the correct description. As the load increases, the blade raises higher and higher all the way to the UP position. I checked for ground contact; without the shows, the edge does indeed reach the ground (or rides on the shoes when installed). Yes, the cutting edge is definately worn... about 4 inches left. I'm guessing that replacing the edge would be a worthwhile project no matter what, so I will get one on order shortly.....huh.....certainly a lot cheaper and less work than the mechanical engineering project I was about to launch into. I will check without the shoes next time we get a little snow. We got 28 inches Sunday night but it's been sunny in the 50's since so most the existing snow is already gone. Thanks so much for your help. I will report back just as soon as I can it tested with the new edge and without the feet. Jim


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Blizzards do not have down pressure. 
Hold the joystick down till the red float light comes on and your in float.
Only other option is to drop blade, and do not hold the joystick...that will lock the blade down


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Update: Turns out the 52051 cutting edge is only 4" new, so I'm guessing it probably got replaced in the not too distant past. That said, the outter edges of the wing edges are worn, but those are worn little enough I can build up the edges by welding and machine them to match the original dimensions. Still, I will test without the shoes at first available snow and report back. Jim


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

You need all 3 blade pieces btw


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

dieselss, my controller is the old switch type. No joystick or any lights of any kind. Thanks for your input anyway. Jim


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

So just a rocker for up and down.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

This is the controller


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Ok, no float light. Gotcha


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

If you were plowing 28” the plow is going to ride up.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Not at one time. Everything was drifting so much was closer to a foot and the drifts I'd take smaller slices out of. That said, the blade would ride up even on top of a few inches of snow.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

So this all gets back to one of my first questions. For example, with the angle cylinders, once angle is set, the related cylinder resists "push back" pressure and holds it position. With the cylinder that controls up/down.....once the blade is down, does the cylinder not resist fluid transfer thus resist raising without the operator hitting the up button on the controller? I'm still going to do the tests without the feet, but it would seem to me that the up/down cylinder should do a better job of preventing the blade from raising.....just keep in mind. I'm brand new at this and right now, everything I'm proposing is just theory. Jim


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Ok so in your second pic. You can see how the aframe is tilted higher near the plow face and the back closer to the truck is lower. This will also cause the plow to ride up. Thinking taking off the shoes may make the aframe parallel to the ground which is where it should be


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

I'll get the shoes taken off tonight or in the morning and will send pics.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

JimK said:


> So this all gets back to one of my first questions. For example, with the angle cylinders, once angle is set, the related cylinder resists "push back" pressure and holds it position. With the cylinder that controls up/down.....once the blade is down, does the cylinder not resist fluid transfer thus resist raising without the operator hitting the up button on the controller? I'm still going to do the tests without the feet, but it would seem to me that the up/down cylinder should do a better job of preventing the blade from raising.....just keep in mind. I'm brand new at this and right now, everything I'm proposing is just theory. Jim


I'm not familiar with the blizzard set up as good as others here. Most plows will go into float.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

JimK said:


> I'll get the shoes taken off tonight or in the morning and will send pics.


Ok


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

I’m sure others that have more knowledge with the blizzard will chime in


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Unrelated to your problem,but, are those hydraulic lines hanging down under the A frame, nearly dragging on thr ground?
Better re route them PDQ before they are a problem.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

JimK said:


> once the blade is down, does the cylinder not resist fluid transfer thus resist raising without the operator hitting the up button on the controller


No....all that is holding the plow down is weight.
I have the same plow. Only plowing deep snow do I notice the plow raising at the end of my passes. 
I think you need to take the shoes off, or adjust them better.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

jonniesmooth said:


> Unrelated to your problem,but, are those hydraulic lines hanging down under the A frame, nearly dragging on thr ground?
> Better re route them PDQ before they are a problem.


That's normal


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## GMC Driver (Sep 9, 2005)

I see a combination of things here - and some have been already mentioned:


plow shoes are preventing the cutting edge from contacting the surface
cutting edge does have significant wear (the weight of these plows will cause shorter edge life - when they are contacting the ground)
push beam height on the truck side should be higher. In your pics, it appears there is room to move the push beam up a hole or two closer to the bumper. This will improve the attack angle
Float mode on the old switch box, IIRC there should be a detent or hold the switch down in the "lower" position.

Just a few tips - FWIW.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

To GMC driver. Check back in a few hours. I'm going to remove the shoes and post another picture showing the plow's profile sitting on the ground. I can "see" what you guys are referring to with the attack angle. Also, I can see from Western1's input how the current A frame angle would actually promote lifting of the moldboard. I know the cutting edge looks worn, but its less that .250 shorter than a new one from Blizzard (4"). I know most brands are 6" so I double checked the specs on the original cutting edge (Blizzard p/n 52051) to make sure my information is correct. I've noted your remarks about beam height and I like your advice a lot for a possible next step. Meanwhile, using the original installation instructions, the dimensions (to ground) are right on the money. That said, once the blade comes off, it would be easy enough to raise the push beam. A little basic math will tell me exactly how much I'd need to raise it for a level A frame angle or other specific result. Ya gotta love modern digital measurement equipment. It makes figuring this stuff out so easy so we don't have to guess. To keep this all in order, I'm only going to change one thing at a time so I have an accurate record of cause and effect for each change I make. Step one comes in a few hours when I will remove the shoes, set the blade on the ground and take pictures for you guys to see. As for your thoughts about the controller, there is no detent (see picture earlier in this post to see which controller I have) or mention of FLOAT anywhere on the controller. Also, I have tried plowing while holding the LOWER switch down....no difference. There is no mention of a FLOAT function anywhere in the operation manual, though there are two solenoids (1 common with the RAISE circuit and 1 common with the LOWER circuit) that are referenced as FLOAT. Go figure. From everything I've read and am learning from you guys, it seems like the moldboard is always in FLOAT mode. I still have a question about how the RAISE/LOWER cylinder is supposed to function. When the blade is down, is the circuit designed to resist the moldboard from raising or is it designed to let the moldboard raise freely? And last, I will post a picture of the solenoid assembly shortly. You guys have all been great. I can't thank y'all enough!


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Johnniesmooth - good point. I did notice that and did an immediate check and oddly enough, there's no sign of wear or contact, but your advice is well taken. Thanks! Meanwhile, for anyone interested, here's a schematic of the valve/solenoid assembly.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

The easiest way to explain float to me is this:
On a chainlift plow you lower the plow to the ground,
Then you put it in float so you can push the thatram down farther so you can unhook the chain.
On the blizzard,which is direct lift from the bottom, the float would hold open the down valve to allow the weight of the plow to push the rams past level .
That's one drawback of direct lift,there is only so much down you can go.
Example: you come up an approach into a lot but the plow can't drop enough to maintain contact over the hump.
So you have to push that out,going down the approach into the street.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

From the looks of the hydraulic schematic, what you are describing is normal. The S8 valve which would block the upper hose on the lift cylinder appears to dump back into the tank by default. So I don't see anything that would restrict it from doing what you are describing. Which seems weird. But I don't see any other way it would work. But I never used a Blizzard to say if it was supposed to work differently.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

I have a Barnes eletro/hydraulic system from Northern Hydraulic.
There is no light to indicate float.
But the up/ down switch is momentary up, detent down.
The down position is energized if left down for float.
If you.leavr it that way it will drain the battery.
Could it be as simple as the switch being bad?
That if it doesn't stay down by itself,holding it won't work either?


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

*cwren2472 *As I'm looking at all this for the first time in my life, I have to learn as I go and what you're saying about S8 is kinda what I came up with. My own theory was that (trying to understand why) if S8 blocked the flow and was confronted with a significant "up" load, something serious could easily break, so thats when I decided I needed some advice from all of you......leaving me to first follow the advice to get all the geometry correct. Besides, that stuff is free and easy. Then next, look at the hydraulics.....


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

JimK said:


> *cwren2472 *As I'm looking at all this for the first time in my life, I have to learn as I go and what you're saying about S8 is kinda what I came up with. My own theory was that (trying to understand why) if S8 blocked the flow and was confronted with a significant "up" load, something serious could easily break,


Correct. Usually there would be some sort of pressure relief to prevent that though (in other direct lift plows I've seen) but in this case I don't see any such relief valve so the way they plumbed it seems to be the "fix"

Incidentally, that would also explain why the lower rocker switch does not detent like every other one I've ever seen. The plow would always be in "float" anyway so there would be no need for it.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

*jonniesmooth *Interesting point about the switch. Something I don't know anything about and hadn't considered. I will look up the switch data now and figure out whats _supposed _to be in there. If anyone out there happens to have a C/H part number (industry standard), please let me know.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

I need to do a better job at keep up with you guys. Gotta love it!


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

jonniesmooth said:


> I have a Barnes eletro/hydraulic system from Northern Hydraulic.
> There is no light to indicate float.
> But the up/ down switch is momentary up, detent down.
> The down position is energized if left down for float.
> If you.leavr it that way it will drain the battery.


If you wire the power in to it to an ignition switched fuse, it shouldn't kill the battery when the truck is off. But I've seen Monarch units where they stuck a cute will sticker saying "Don't leave in float or it'll kill the battery." So obviously they expect people to just run it to the battery anyway.



jonniesmooth said:


> Could it be as simple as the switch being bad?
> That if it doesn't stay down by itself,holding it won't work either?


That was my first thought - but see my above post in this case which is why I deleted my post.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Interesting, in the Blizzard spec, the 62067 UP/DOWN switch is described as *(ON)-OFF-ON* meaning that the *(ON)* position is spring return and the other *ON* position (without the parens) does not have a spring return and "locks" in place. In my controller, the switch has a spring return in either direction. That said, while I was trying to diagnose my situation, I did try plowing while holding the switch in the down position and it made no difference.....but that seems to be confirmed by the fact that S8 simply returns fluid to the well.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

And looking at the schematic, if it were possible to leave the UP/DOWN switch in the DOWN position, that would certainly drain the battery, so I would just on my own, move that power to a ignition controlled voltage source.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Here's a profile of the blade with the feet removed.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

So here's something that's specifically "off" compared to the installation instructions. Even though the pushbar was right on spec with nothing mounted, as pictured above, it now sits 1-1/2" lower than factory spec (though the factory spec only refers to it without the blade mounted). There is room to raise the pushbar a couple inches with the mounting holes. Raising it would produce the same rise in the back end of the A frame. According to the installation instructions, it can be raised no more that 14", so I'm guessing that raising it 1.5-2 inches would be OK?


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Here's another image with the brightness and contrast changed to better view the hardware.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Per those pics..you NEED cutting edges.

Whats the distance to the ground at the shoe bracket?...looks like it touching the ground already.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Listen to the GMCDriver guy...he kinda knows what he's talking aboot. 

I've never seen a shoebox controller like yours, pretty strange. And even stranger that the up/down switch doesn't have a "Float" position. 

Easiest way to explain float (although it might not technically be correct) is the up/down valve(s) remain open so as you travel over ups and downs in whatever you are plowing, the plow "floats" up and down. It isn't fixed at one height.

As for down pressure, it isn't a factory option, but Blizzards (or any direct lift plow) can have down pressure. Heck, there was a guy that thought a chainlift could have down pressure, all he had to do was weld the chain. I digress.

One thing Blizzards are known for is scraping fantastically. In Float anyways. Adjust the push beam height...seems like Jerre said 12.5" was the best. Remove the shoes. And know that even a foot of snow will allow a properly adjusted plow to raise up.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Not sure where the 4" cutting edge height is coming from but I think it's wrong.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)




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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

These are pics of my plows. One is a ph1 other is a ph2. Both are over 4”


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Maybe it sticks below the moldboard 4”?


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

Only way to diagnose is VIDEO of plow in action. It shouldn’t rise up until there is a hell of a lot snow in front of it and quite a bit of resistance. Is it rising up if you’re angled and plowing forward?? Or just pushing forward with the plow straight across? I need to see what’s actually happening.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

OK you guys are absolutely right. I got some bad info from a local parts vendor, but contributions by* *Dieselss and Mark got me thinking and after going out to measure other stuff such as distance from the shoe brackets and wing edges to ground, they're all way off so replacement parts will be on their way shortly.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

WIpensFan. Good idea. We're all photo and video geeks around here so next time it snows......if step one of removing the shoes and/or correcting A frame angle by raising the push bar doesn't cut it, I can certainly add a video with the next snow.......if it even snows again. About Colorado. We had a serious blizzard Sunday, but Monday was sunny and in the 50's.


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

JimK said:


> WIpensFan. Good idea. We're all photo and video geeks around here so next time it snows......if step one of removing the shoes and/or correcting A frame angle by raising the push bar doesn't cut it, I can certainly add a video with the next snow.......if it even snows again. About Colorado. We had a serious blizzard Sunday, but Monday was sunny and in the 50's.


Cool buddy, hope you get it fixed.Thumbs Up


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

JimK said:


> About Colorado. We had a serious blizzard Sunday, but Monday was sunny and in the 50's.


That storm was nothing more than a heavy skiff.......


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Hah! We had 28" of that heavy skiff (we're at 7200' on the Palmer Divide.....well known for defying local weather forecasts) and had to get out early to plow before the sun had time to warm things up. Winds were 20-30 mph late so snow was either really shallow or drifted 5-6 feet or more. Though when I drove to down, it looked like they hardly got a flake. Welcome to Colorado!


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

JimK said:


> Hah! We had 28" of that heavy skiff (we're at 7200' on the Palmer Divide.....well known for defying local weather forecasts) and had to get out early to plow before the sun had time to warm things up. Winds were 20-30 mph late so snow was either really shallow or drifted 5-6 feet or more. Though when I drove to down, it looked like they hardly got a flake. Welcome to Colorado!


All reports I saw for Parker had 26.5" for the most.... but at that amount 1.5" doesn't add mulch more...... It's not just the Palmer Divide that defies the NTAC local weather foreguesser, it's the whole Front Range.
Had aboot 20" mid-day on Sunday, later in the day the wind spooled up to aboot 40-45MPH for a couple hours then stopped. Wind left some 5-6' drifts at my place too. Another 6-7" fell Sunday night.
BTW the snow is deep when a hay burners belly is dragging in the snow....


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

In my younger days, we ran 450 hay burners (on average) out of Walden. About this time of year, the foals would start dropping so we wouldn't get any sleep until May. Some of those days I miss........but mostly......no. These days, I live in a semi-rural equestrian development where most my neighbors are city-slicker transplants without even the most basic farm equipment and have no idea how to put proper corners on their fence lines. So most my plow gigs are fairly long ranch driveways. But as I'm sure you're aware, it seems that regular snows have become a thing of the past. Hell, most this past winter has been in the 50's!


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

*Mark..*..just catching up with everyone who has contributed. I give primary credit to *Western1* and *dieselss* for getting me pointed in the right direction right from the start. So, I'm completely on board with your recommendations. Shoes are already off and make a noticeable difference in overall geometry. 12.5" is the right value for optimal push bar height with a maximum of 14" so I'm assuming it will be plenty safe and within spec to move the push bar up 2 notches meaning two inches. That'll move the centerline of the pushbar slightly above 12.5" with the plow mounted and put the A frame angle slightly positive....meaning it'll be angled slightly down (just a couple degrees down compared to level) from the push bar pivot point to the blade. The new cutting edges are on order so should be here in a week or so. Meanwhile,* cwren2472 *picked up on my questions about hydraulics and brilliantly spotted the role of S8 which answered my question and saved me a boatload of time and money trying to troubleshoot that!* jonniesmooth *brought my attention to how the up/down switch should operation which is what I needed to understand and troubleshoot that particular aspect. From there, I was able to find the factory spec on the UP/DOWN switch which confirmed everyone's observations and how the blade float is the default state with this plow....so I'm done putting brain time on the controller and the hydraulics.

So thanks to ALL YOU GUYS for making me a lot smarter than I was a few hours ago and giving me one GIANT frickin' headache!


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

JimK said:


> In my younger days, we ran 450 hay burners (on average) out of Walden. About this time of year, the foals would start dropping so we wouldn't get any sleep until May. Some of those days I miss........but mostly......no. These days, I live in a semi-rural equestrian development where most my neighbors are city-slicker transplants without even the most basic farm equipment and have no idea how to put proper corners on their fence lines. So most my plow gigs are fairly long ranch driveways. But as I'm sure you're aware, it seems that regular snows have become a thing of the past. Hell, most this past winter has been in the 50's!


North Park guy eh....... Spent a lot of time in the Elk Horn, fishing Lake John and Delany and at the dunes. Still ice fish there and hit the dunes occasionally.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Good reading,good info here.OP seems on the ball,mostly.Don't know where he got his info,but a simple net search shows a 6" blade,for that plow.The other posters are right(but you found that out) your "attack" angle is wrong.I actually still have that problem,with my Meyer HM9,on my 1978 GMC K25(ya,I lied before,and said it was a 1 ton,lol).The older taller straight blade plows just look wrong,with the top of the blade rolled over so far,but that is just the way it was(might still be?).When this plow was on my old jacked up ramcharger,it was fine. On the GMC,I used to almost always have to run shoes, as it would dig in.Some years ago,I put in a coil spring,with airbags, front kit,found in neighbors garage,made for campers. So,even now,my cutting edge is worn down less than 1/2",except the edges,but we do not worry about that,here in the mountains.And,with the shoes on,on flat ground,no spacer washers(remember,HM meyers have huge shoes),my cutting edge is still 1.5 to almost 2" above the shoes.BUT,since beefing up the front suspension,have used it that way for maybe 4 years, now.Shoes come off, once roadway freezes.Because, we hate losing gravel,especially if we get some warm days,in winter,I am going to make my shoes same level as cutting edge,and leave them on full time.This summer,i might just cut off the welded on stopper washers,on the shoe pins,but what i really want to do is cut off the links,that attach the A Frame to the truck, and re weld them to the A frame, but underneath,instead of on top. Sorry for rambling,but I am probably one of few that actually runs a huge heavy plow on a small truck,and I have had issues to deal with.Just my blade weighs almost 900 lbs,lol!


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Hey Bob, thanks for writing. Be sure to stop back because there's more to come next week. On Thursday, my new cutting edges arrives and even if they're not exactly right, I have the machine shop and welding tools needed to make them fit (I'm not expecting any problem.....these are exactly the right part numbers, but this IS Blizzard which has a questionable history). They're due Thursday. All the mounting bolts are saturated with penetrating oil and the second they arrive, they'll get installed, then the blade removed and the pushbar raised so that the A frame angle becomes just slightly positive. I like the idea of a front end suspension option but first, I want to get the edges upgraded and the mounting raised "to spec" and then we'll see how it looks. I think the F350 front end only drops about an inch with the blade hanging on it. We'll see. Stay tuned! Jim PS. Just looked at the 810 specs. It claims 870# for just the blade without mounts. Kind of like a woman with extra large... imaginations.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Cutting edge, or cutting edges?
K,I admit I really do not know Blizzard plows. A rich neighbor had one,up here,a few years ago, and them moved away,after one winter.
Is this a sectional plow,extendable wings?Seems there were so many different blizzard plows.If so, then the pictures are kinda worthless.
Searched for that part number you gave us,for the 4" cutting edge--
50251,cannot find it anywhere on the net.Post info.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Cutting edge, or cutting edges?
K,I admit I really do not know Blizzard plows. A rich neighbor had one,up here,a few years ago, and them moved away,after one winter.
Is this a sectional plow,extendable wings?Seems there were so many different blizzard plows.If so, then the pictures are kinda worthless.
Searched for that part number you gave us,for the 4" cutting edge--
50251,cannot find it anywhere on the net.Post info.
OK,your earlier pictures have now been allowed to my PC. might be a net or site thing.
The bottom line is,if your plow is flat on the ground,with the shoes on, with zero spacing washers,and the cutting edge of the plow is above the ground,you have a big problem, just common sense.You should be able to move it upwards, but should be able to plow at ground level, in my opinion, just because this is the way it has been since the 1960's.
Raise the back of the "a" frame, mount, where it attaches to the truck/unit,and you will be very happy.
The side/extended cutting edges are irrelevant, on a used plow,you have no idea what they went through.
The bottom line,looking at the pics, the rear of the "A" frame, or what others may call the push bar assembly,is mounted way too low,on your truck.
What I am saying is,raise the "rear" of the A or mount.Simple logic comes in,the "rear" is the truck end, tilt/ move that upwards, the plow edge moves downwards.
Oh,I always recommend replacing the plow cutting edges bolts. They go through a lot of stress.And,they are cheap to buy.
A proper air impact wrench,with a proper air compressor,can snap them bolts off,running in tightening mode,can just snap them off.
But a torch can lope them off,just not as fast.


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

Yes, it is cutting edges. Main center and 2 wing edges.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Hi everyone. *WIPensFan*, thanks for responding. Just to bring everyone up to date, I got the 3 cutting edges on order (found OEM old new stock at great prices!) and yes, the center edge is 6" and the wings designed to match and I have mounting bolts coming also, though the bolt kits offered by the aftermarket houses aren't the correct flatheads, but those bolts are all standard parts and they're on their way from a local fastener supplier. Everything is expected here Thursday. Meanwhile, the old cutting edges came off in quick order. Sockethead countersunk flathead fasteners was actually a really good idea on Blizzards's part. A comment I haven't had many opportunities to say. Us Blizzard owners certainly have our challenges! Once I got the edges off, I decided to see if everyone's theories were correct, so with the help of a couple floor jacks and some wood blocks, I moved everything into their positions as if the new edges were installed. Holy ****! (no laughing, *WesternPlow1* - great Internet plow sage) This looks MUCH better than I imagined. Amazing how much good parts makes a difference! Suddenly, everything looks exactly right with the A frame slightly positive of level (so when the blade pushes snow, the force from the snow through the blade in the A frame wants to hold/push the blade down rather than up which was my case previously). And these improvements are even before raising the pushbar! So, once the edges get installed, I'll still have room to adjust further if I decide. A little background. Before this blade, I didn't have even an ounce of knowledge or experience with plow or pushing snow, though I'm pretty well equipped. In my younger days, I built high end race cars (back in the days of Flintstone cars) and still have a complete machine shop toyland "out back" which may be a bit overkill for working on a plow, but what-the-hell. We have fun, right? Never owning a plow, I've been learning as I go, which especially with Blizzard, has been a real challenge at times.......until I found this site....with much appreciation to all of you and the amazing input and assistance I've received. Just to add to this story, before finding you guys, this 810 was a complete basket case broken, rusted, corroded and abused every way possibly. To get it working, I started by figuring out and installing the wire harness and truck mount..... then replaced a couple visably leaking cylinders. The controller was a complete wreck with connectors that were damaged beyond repair. Only the LEFT/RIGHT switch worked and several diodes had exploded. I had connectors in stock and found the correct switches at Mouser for just a few bucks each. Finally, just rewired the whole controller. Once the harness was installed, I replaced the dead contactor. Drove the truck into the hookup and hit the draw-latch switch and.....nothing. Hmmmm. Opening the manifold/pump box, everything was so greasy/dirty/gummed up, I needed to power wash it just to see what was going on. Oh, look! I'm so surprised! The latch switch was broken into two parts and a couple of the terminals were completely corroded away, so I replaced the switch and installed new terminals with parts I had in stock. Ah! Draw latch works! Pump was making a terrible noise but worked long enough to get the latch working and a few tests done...... then locked up in a puff of smoke. Replaced it and relay. Thank God, all universal parts! Now, the draw latch works as well as UP/DOWN and LEFT. Found frozen solenoids with corroded (gone) electrical components. Thankfully none of the solenoids needed replacing, rather only needing polished. The coils and electrical connections needed a little more including a few custom made parts, but working on it a little at a time for a few weeks to cleaning and replaced/repaired/rebuilt the coils/electrical components (eroded from years of salt and abuse), and replacing a BUNCH of general wiring, soon all the solenoids were working. Total out of pocket with the new pump motor ($70), 2 cylinders ($160 each), 5 switches, contactor, fluid, nuts and bolts all about $600 total. Pretty soon, I'll at least be a Blizzard parts and service authority. No small feat! Right* Dieselss*?

And last, this summer, I'm planning to replace the main plow-truck connectors. I'd like to replace them with OEM, but not for the ridiculous prices they're asking. I've found a reasonably priced replacement kit for Boss plows on Amazon that will work perfectly with just a little modification, but I'm in no hurry to buy, so meanwhile, I'm on the lookout for a used or new-old stock Blizzard harness or components in serviceable conditions. So, if anyone knows of one.....

So....still as before, I'll post pictures once the new edges are installed......proving you guys were right all along! Jim


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

GIDDYUP


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

I had Carbide wing edges. Bought from my dealer. Carbide plates welded onto the stock wing edges. Makes all 3 last longer. I had a 07’ 8611LP. They really are very productive plows. Amazing the neglect people put their equipment through. Great job on doing all that refurbishing!


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

*PensFan.* What were the dimensions on the carbide edges? I'd wondered about that in principal but decided not to experiment thinking it might do more damage than good.....by not "giving" if in trouble. Were they welded onto the face (adding to the thickness of the edge) or were the welded such that they added to the 6" height (making it 7" or whatever)? Were they solid from end to end or just in sections? I have the equipment here to easily do that and now with brand new edges would be the time to decide. Thanks! Jim


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Typically it’s double thickness. Welded on to the face near outer edge.


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

Yep, like @Western1 said, double thickness welded to the face.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Perfect pix! Looks like I'd be able to use a narrower piece, but either way, I have a good source for inexpensive carbide, so will order enough tomorrow to add these to my wings. Thanks!


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

So....the scrapers are in. The center piece is a "new-old" unit from Blizzard and exactly as the original. The wings are aftermarket from Stork's and will fit like the originals but the side bars are a little lighter weigh and these will attach with hex-head bolts and fender washers (holes too big for carriage bolts) rather than the factory original socket-head flats. Now all I need is the hardware which, when I check tracking, UPS reports "delayed" so who knows what that means. Back soon! Jim


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## bliz&hinikerDLR (Dec 30, 2011)

Nice job getting an old ‘99 era plow back up and running. Not a lot of guys will know the unique characteristics of this plow. I believe I have the vehicle harness you are looking for too.


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## JimK (Mar 16, 2021)

Finally.....here we go with complete with final picture! To recap, when I started, my problem was the board was "lifting" with even moderate snow. WESTERN1 led the way by observing that my "A frame" was in a reverse canter, so the force rearward created by plowing into snow caused the entire assembly to raise. The cause of the this bad geometry was an overly warn scraper. I first went out and raised the board to emulate a new scraper and sure enough, the entire geometry changed and now, the A frame was ina positive camber and now, hitting the snow drove the force rearward into the A-frame, but now, the force drove everything down instead of up. Sure enough. Problem solved. See picture below. Hitting the snow now wants to drive everything down instead of up. Last before putting it up for the season, it'll get blasted, a fresh coat of epoxy paint and finally all new graphics, including the wing stripes. I have a source for all the graphics in automotive quality vinyl so hopefully, they'll last a little longer than the factory graphics! Thanks everyone for all your help!.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Great picture,It explains why our incompetent government got involved. ya, they did,many do not know,"nothing extending past the front bumper,when the plow is removed.But,hey,nice rig.


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