# 6.0 tick



## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Well my truck has developed a lovely tick now. Does it mainly at idle with no load on the engine. Once I put it in gear or take the rpms up some, it kinda goes away. It is pretty loud next to the truck and under it is really bad. With the hood open, you cant hear it though. I was thinking lifter or something along those lines, but with it coming more from underneath, that could just lead to bad. Never ran the truck low on oil, changed every 3k, etc. I am hard on it at times, but it gets babied most otherwise. It is close to rolling 162k on the clock


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## buckwheat_la (Oct 11, 2009)

check the exhaust manifolds, i have the same problem, and was worried it was something big, take it into the shop, and one mainifold has busted 3 bolts, once it was fixed tick was gone, apparently it is pretty common


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Not the manifolds, did the bolts last year. Got headers on it now so I know that is not where the issue lays. Thank you though!!


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## buckwheat_la (Oct 11, 2009)

i was hoping it might be a easy fix for you


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

Question

when engine is cold no tick? When it warm up Tick come?

I would say it sound oil pressure low or not enough oil pump


What oil weight you use now? 10w30? try 5w40 and see if it stop tick.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

buckwheat_la;1040041 said:


> i was hoping it might be a easy fix for you


Me too, but that isnt how my luck works out. At least it is 75 degrees out and not 10, lol. Much nicer to wrench in this weather


Milwaukee;1040049 said:


> Question
> 
> when engine is cold no tick? When it warm up Tick come?
> 
> ...


Ticks cold or warm. Has the Chevy knock for 10-15 seconds when it is super cold, but that goes away rather quickly. The oil pressure in this thing is better than any other vehicle I have owned. It never, ever drops below 40 psi. I switched recently from 5w30 to 10w30. Ticked a lil more on the 5w30 then it does now. Thinking it is tired from 162K of nothing but work since it was new. The original owner was a roofer and I am the 2nd owner of it. Been a plow truck since day one as well. Cant speak for the previous owner's maintenance, but I think mine has been pretty damn good. Just a tired motor asking for a little love. Thank you for the help so far guys, please keep the responses coming as I want to pin point it as closely as possible before draining my wallet!!!


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

It could be possible that your valvetrain is getting tired. Could be a worn cam lobe or a worn lifter.


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

OH
You know that most roofer in Michigan aren't easy on truck.

last time I see 2 2001 bang up F250 EXT Lariat with roofer stuff and cruise around 90 to 93 mph on I94 in Auburn Hill.

Most time they only change oil once year because they sit during winter.
Most time they buy new truck then straight to ground then sell to us.


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## SnowMatt13 (Jan 8, 2003)

the 6.0's were/are classic for this. 
there has been a few service bullitens written by gm on this.
it is a lifter
my 01 did it, real loud when cold. if you called and questioned gm and complained a little they gave you a 100K full engine warranty.
never had any problems with the 01 and my 05 has been quiet....


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## 87chevy (Mar 11, 2009)

Sounds like a lifter. My DD pickup is not a Chevy but it does it. Might just need tightening


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Positive it's not coming from the bell housing Tom? The 6.0's have a habit once in a while of cracking the flexplate between the crank flange bolt holes and will mimic the sound of something loose in the valvetrain exactly, except it's much more pronounced from under the truck rather than from the top side.

They'll also loosen a rocker bolt once in a great while too so as PM you may want to pop the VC's off and check them.


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## mossman381 (Nov 17, 2009)

My first check would be an exhaust leak under the truck. I know you said that it is only a year old. I would still check every connection that has a gasket.


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## EFI (Mar 18, 2007)

Lifter colapsing . Pretty easy to R&R your self . Put a new cam kit in it .


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

EFI;1040591 said:


> Lifter colapsing . Pretty easy to R&R your self . Put a new cam kit in it .


If he were to do a cam, then he would most likely have to do lifters and maybe pushrods due to long term wear patterns.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

B&B;1040528 said:


> Positive it's not coming from the bell housing Tom? The 6.0's have a habit once in a while of cracking the flexplate between the crank flange bolt holes and will mimic the sound of something loose in the valvetrain exactly, except it's much more pronounced from under the truck rather than from the top side.
> 
> They'll also loosen a rocker bolt once in a great while too so as PM you may want to pop the VC's off and check them.


It is a possibility too. I hear it more from under the truck than up in the engine compartment. Wish I had a camera with video and I would record the sound so everyone could hear it. But if it is the flexplate issue, how much of a PITA is that to do?? I guessing either the trans has to come out or the motor. Either way it wont be fun

I am still doing cam and lifters though. The cam is sitting here in my office. Gonna buy parts as extra $$ comes available. Should have it all by mid summer. LS6 springs, GMPP lifters, ARP studs, gonna go with fel pro on the gaskets. The cam is a Comp Xtreme EFI truck cam, 115 degree LSA, .554/.558 with a .208/.212 duration @ .050


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## Mick76 (Aug 2, 2009)

Sydenstricker Landscaping;1040652 said:


> It is a possibility too. I hear it more from under the truck than up in the engine compartment. Wish I had a camera with video and I would record the sound so everyone could hear it. But if it is the flexplate issue, how much of a PITA is that to do?? I guessing either the trans has to come out or the motor. Either way it wont be fun
> 
> I am still doing cam and lifters though. The cam is sitting here in my office. Gonna buy parts as extra $$ comes available. Should have it all by mid summer. LS6 springs, GMPP lifters, ARP studs, gonna go with fel pro on the gaskets. The cam is a Comp Xtreme EFI truck cam, 115 degree LSA, .554/.558 with a .208/.212 duration @ .050


It cost me a grand to get my flexplate fixed........


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## secret_weapon (Jan 24, 2007)

If it is the flexplate that is cracked and you don't want to do it yourself, give this place a call to see if it's worth them doing it instead of you. Not sure how close you are to them, but could save you some headaches.

http://www.atlastransmission.net/contactinformation/


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Mick76;1040663 said:


> It cost me a grand to get my flexplate fixed........


Lovely. Heck I can get the entire trans rebuilt here for 1400 bucks, new torque converter,etc. Look like a DIY job for me


secret_weapon;1040720 said:


> If it is the flexplate that is cracked and you don't want to do it yourself, give this place a call to see if it's worth them doing it instead of you. Not sure how close you are to them, but could save you some headaches.
> 
> http://www.atlastransmission.net/contactinformation/


I will give them a call. Thank you for the info!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Sydenstricker Landscaping;1040652 said:


> It is a possibility too. I hear it more from under the truck than up in the engine compartment. Wish I had a camera with video and I would record the sound so everyone could hear it. But if it is the flexplate issue, how much of a PITA is that to do?? I guessing either the trans has to come out or the motor. Either way it wont be fun


 Either one has to come out to get at the flexplate. But no worries, it's nothing you can't handle. If it's rusty underneath pulling the engine is better, if it's not then pulling the trans is the better approach.



Sydenstricker Landscaping;1040652 said:


> I am still doing cam and lifters though. The cam is sitting here in my office. Gonna buy parts as extra $$ comes available. Should have it all by mid summer. LS6 springs, GMPP lifters, ARP studs, gonna go with fel pro on the gaskets. The cam is a Comp Xtreme EFI truck cam, 115 degree LSA, .554/.558 with a .208/.212 duration @ .050


Pretty stout lift figures for a truck but with the civilized duration numbers it'll work sweet even with the stock converter. That's one of the beauties of the stock converters, they're a little looser in the 6.0 trucks.

Also, if you plan to leave the engine alone (except for the valvetrain of course) seriously consider upgrading to the newer LS6/LS3/L92 PCV system to cut down on oil consumption and intake contamination the LS1's are plagued with. Easy to do while you have it apart and only adds a little to the parts cost. It does require an internal block mod but it's nothing you can't handle if you have a Dremel tool.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

B&B;1041221 said:


> Either one has to come out to get at the flexplate. But no worries, it's nothing you can't handle. If it's rusty underneath pulling the engine is better, if it's not then pulling the trans is the better approach.
> 
> Pretty stout lift figures for a truck but with the civilized duration numbers it'll work sweet even with the stock converter. That's one of the beauties of the stock converters, they're a little looser in the 6.0 trucks.
> 
> Also, if you plan to leave the engine alone (except for the valvetrain of course) seriously consider upgrading to the newer LS6/LS3/L92 PCV system to cut down on oil consumption and intake contamination the LS1's are plagued with. Easy to do while you have it apart and only adds a little to the parts cost. It does require an internal block mod but it's nothing you can't handle if you have a Dremel tool.


My truck isnt too bad rust wise with the engine or trans, so either one shouldnt be too bad. Just the trans weighs less than the motor. Been a good while since I took a trans out of a truck, last one was a TH400 out of a K20.

It is a pretty big cam, but the duration wasnt too horrible and the power range it says is for 1000-5800 rpm which is fine for me. I didnt want to get too crazy with the cam since I dont want to swap converters or have my truck suck for working with. I hate this engine's oil consumption, so I will for sure be doing the mod. I do have a dremel, so that wont be an issue


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## KSikkema (Oct 7, 2008)

have seen a coupe cams go bad on the 5.3's. no lifter or other valve train problems though. one thing to watch for is the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube. it goes bad and you'd swear it's a bad lifter but it's not. I'd say check the flex plate (that's easiest), then pull the pan and check the o-ring and look up at the cam to see if there is any missing sections on the lobes. The machined surface has been known to flake off and cause a tick when the lifter passes over that section.


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## secret_weapon (Jan 24, 2007)

Curious if you found what's making noise, or not yet?


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Im pretty sure it is the flex plate. When cold and I put it in drive it gets pretty loud, then push the gas a little and holy crap!!! Sounds like it is going to blow up. Does it even worse in reverse. Once it is warmed, it isnt as loud but it is there. If it isnt pouring again tomorrow, I am pulling the inspection plate/dust shield off the trans and have a look see. Motor runs A-1 and the trans shifts flawlessly so it isnt an issue with that. Just gotta figure out what a new flexplate is gonna run me. I wonder what else will need replaced with this job. 163k though and still going good other than these random small issues


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Can't see the flex plate (where they fracture) Tom unless you pull either the engine or trans, because they break around the perimeter of the crankshaft bolts which isn't visible even if you pull the starter (no inspection plate the the old days).

However if you want to check something on your own you can pop the tin plug from the bottom of the bell housing and reach up in with a wrench to be sure none of the converter bolts are loose. Seen a few that were and cause a ticking sound that varied by temp and gear. Easy enough to check even in the three season garage.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Gotcha B&B. I picked up a new flexplate today for it, 70 bucks from the dealer. Was a heck of alot cheaper than I expected. They had it in stock even, lol. I can see where it would have issues with them breaking. So how much of a biatch is this going to be to do?? Doesnt look too horrible, but Im sure it will be otherwise. Usually a 70 dollar part on a truck ends up with 15 hours of me laying under it wrenching away


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yes the FP's aren't expensive so that's a plus. But of course the downside is you have to pull the trans to access it. But you've pulled one before so there's nothing new to you, just removal and re-installation...pretty straight forward. Disconnect all the usual connectors on the trans and T-case including the cooler lines, pull the starter and remove the converter bolts, pull the D-shaft's, raise the trans, pull the cross member, pull the T-case, remove the bell bolts and slide the trans back and you're to the flexplate. The T-case isn't heavy but the trans is so try to borrow a trans jack if you possibly can. 

I'd also recommend replacing the rear main in the engine as well as the front pump seal in the trans as good measure, I always do. Especially on a truck well over 100K.

Assembly is the same as removal, just be sure to use the correct torque spec for the flexplate bolts. The rest aren't fussy.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Doesnt sound too horrible then. Since I am splitting the tcase from the trans, I am also going to replace the seal that runs between the 2. No sense putting it all back together and having that mess up a month or 2 down the road


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Cant forget I have to drop the exhaust out of the way too. That wont be fun at all:crying:


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

I knew you wouldn't forget so I didn't feel the need to mention it.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Well I have an update on the situation. I went thru all my receipts from when I bought the truck. The trans/flexplate was replaced at 85,270 miles. It had exactly 5 miles on the new stuff when I got it. So I pulled the bottom inspection cover or whatever you would like to call it from the trans. Plate still looks new and you can still see all the original stickers on the torque converter. Nice and blue by the way, lol. But when I dropped that pan I got soaked in engine oil and there is a buttload of metal shavings laying there. And no it wasnt the oil pan, lmao I could see all of the oil coming from where the rear main seal would be. The whole bottom back of the oil pan is soaked as is the front inside of the trans. I triple checked to make sure it wasnt trans fluid, which it isnt. So now I am all irritated and pissed. This doesnt seem like a good thing at all!! Or am I just crazy?


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Definitly doesn't sound good but I have no insight, sry pal. I'm interested to see what the problem is as I have the same truck.


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## mossman381 (Nov 17, 2009)

The metal shavings are from the broken flexplate hitting something. The tick you are hearing is when it is hitting something. We had a 90 TH400 break a flexplate.

You are good B&B :salute:


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

I know you don't want to hear it but it's time to pull the engine or trans, the flexplate's broke and it definitely needs a seal while you're in there. May want to pull the engine instead of the trans though since you have a cam swap to do anyway.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Im sure it is, cheap pieces of junk. Wasnt doubting you at all B&B:salute: Just not something I am looking forward to, lol. It needs a rear main seal really really bad. Stupid question, what kind of a PITA are the engine mounts to get loose?? Looked at them and they are nothing like the old GMT 400 and earlier trucks. Those were a piece of cake to take apart. It would be nice to pull the motor so I can go thru and replace gaskets and what not. And of course get the cam, lifters and springs done. A few people said I should replace the rocker arms too since they have well over 100k on them, but I dont want to drop another 400 on just those. Although the scorpion rollers sure do look nice and there is a set for sale locally for 250 bucks brand new


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

They're alot different than the old style Gen 1's you're used to. There's three bolts that attach the frame side of the mount to the frame bracket instead of having a single through bolt deal. They're a bit hidden but if you know what to look for it's not too bad depending on what kind of mood you're in.  I included an image to give you an idea of what to be looking for.

Replacing the rockers is a wise idea for two reasons, they already have plenty of miles accumulated on them and you'll also be placing more work load on them with the new cam. So I'd recommend to just go ahead and budget the extra cash now to buy new, even if you use a stock set again, it's still better than using the old ones over.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Well as I am getting new parts gathered for this mess, I have to ask. Where the heck do I lift the engine from and for the life of me I cant see the torque converter bolts. If I knew this, the job would be easier, lol. But the cam is a Comp cam, Scorpion LS1 roller rockers, GMPP LS6 beehive valve springs, titanium locks, stock pushrods (new) GMPP lifters, felpro and cometic gaskets, ARP head bolts, gm timing chain, and possibly switching from the shorty headers to catless Dynatech longtubes with and x pipe. Then I will be throwing in a TB spacer, 160 thermostat and getting a re-tune from Nelson's. This hasnt been exactly cheap, but I got the best parts and it will be well worth it. I have a good feeling this truck is going to haul a$$ when done. Pending on what is left of my budget for this before the re-tune it may also get a trans go HD shift kit in the 80E so I can get all the torque management removed for some real fun!!! Just hope I dont murder the bottom end with this build, lol. That would pee in my cheerios for the day:realmad: B&B what do you think of the list so far?? I got some of the parts, waiting on a few others. Just gotta know where to pick the engine up from.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Best way to lift the engine is to pull the intake first and use the bolt holes in the ends of the cylinder heads. With the intake already removed there's no change of damaging it with the chains and it makes rear access easier too.

You access the TQ bolts through the starter hole, just pop the starter out and rotate the crankshaft until each one comes into view.

Your parts list looks perfect except the TB spacer, don't bother as they do nothing but lighten your wallet. The cash is much better sent toward the TG kit for the trans hands down.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Ok I will pass on the tb spacer since those are useless. Doesnt sound too horrible and Im sure my intake gaskets need done anyway since the area around them is kinda wet. Not horrible, but you can tell there is some leaking going on. 

I just hope this cam isnt going to be too crazy for this thing. It says the rpm range is from 1,000 to 5,700 rpms. It is 208/212 duration @.050. The advertised duration is 261/265. Not sure of that but it sounds kinda big lol. The lift is .554/.558 and lobe separation is 115 degrees. Comp recommends a 1.6 rocker, which I am guessing is stock. Only question I have, will the stock length pushrods be ok with this cam?? This cam is a friggin hog and I hope it wont murder my gas mileage, lol. But im sure the re-tune will level it back out. Goodbye ever using 87 again,lol. I actually found the GM LS6 springs are cheaper than any of the others. I guess that is a good thing. Kinda going over budget a lil, so I might just not get the scorpion roller rockers, and just get a new set of stock ones. They are roller fulcrum anyway, so why pay 400 for a new set?? And the longtubes may wait a lil as well. Trying to keep it in the $1100 dollar range, and the cam sucked a good bit of that away. But since I wont be plowing much anymore, Im not worried about that. Gonna be more of a daily driver now. Moving to Arkansas in the next month, so I gotta get this bad boy done!!!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

The cam isn't too large. In fact the duration is about perfect for a daily driven 6.0, you do have more lift than you need with stock heads but it won't be a hindrance in any way so you should be well impressed with the upgrade, especially from about 3 grand on up as that's where the right cam really wakes them up. Running the truck intake keeps low end torque acceptable too so it won't lose anything down low running that cam. 

You still use the stock length pushrods with your cam so technically you can reuse them but if you're planning to pound it I'd highly recommended upgrading now to prevent problems later. Street prices are around $110 or so for a decent set of Comp's high energy series so they're not too expensive for the added reliability so seriously consider adding them to your parts list. Because it's always the weakest link that fails when overlooked. 

Stick with the stock rocker ratio too if you do decide to buy the Scorpions (or whatever brand you chose), you have enough duration and more than enough lift already so there's no need to add to it.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Okay so as I am amass parts buying, I am torn/confused on the timing chain. I guess the stocker is a single non roller chain. Should I go with a single roller or a double roller chain?? If double, what extra mods/machining will I be in store for? Cant wait to get all these parts together, that flexplate is on its last leg with towing a 5,000 lb trailer 5 days a week with grass and other crap in the bed. I have been babying it, but it is only a matter of time. The noise has steadily gotten worse with a lovely vibration from about 35 mph on up. I have grandmas cussing me out driving because I take off so slow right now as not to hurt it any further. 

B&B thanks for the help so far. I dont plan on constantly pounding it, but the occasional pedal/carpet meeting cannot be ruled out


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Go with one of these chains Tom and order a fresh stock replacement cam and crank sprocket while you're ordering (from wherever). The GMPP HD single roller with stock gears is more than plenty for your intended purposes and it won't kill the wallet too bad either. Good piece of mind for the price.

You get into many of the aftermarket double rollers and then you're into shimming the oil pump forward and many times machining the inside of the timing cover for clearance. That's all unneeded overkill for what you're doing.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Thanks for the tips B&B:waving: 

Only thing I am finding weird, there is no tin plug in the bottom of my bell housing. I can take off the entire bottom of the bell housing with 6 bolts. Kinda weird since all the reference books talk about the tin plug. That doesnt exist on mine. Didnt know there are 6 torque converter bolts!! Just going to be that much less fun!! Where the heck is my easy button?? lol


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

'99 and 2000's were oddball model years. 95% had the newer style one piece bell housing with the tin inspection plug that's now been the standard for years, but some '99-2000's (I've seen a couple) still had the old style bell with the removable lower half. Just like what was used for 30 years prior that you're probably most familiar with.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Well I am going to take that as a good thing. Seems like the older stuff lasted longer and was built better. Every auto trans in a truck has always had the removable bottom half. Kinda makes it easier to work on. Well put my truck into one of your oddball lists, lol. Im an oddball so I always find the trucks to fit the personality, lol


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Okay I officially hate GM. Why the F would they make 2 different cranks for the damn 6.0?? One takes a huge adapter, the other a smaller one. Well go figure they only have one flexplate for both, and all they said to me was remove crank hub from the new one, install old one onto new plate. Mine doesnt need the huge adapter. Seems pretty ghetto to me. So the issue was 3 loose torque converter bolts. They were loose long enough to hog out the holes on the original plate and cause it to make that lovely noise. Couldnt wait any longer to get all the parts for a complete engine build, so I took the truck to my friend's shop. He is only charging 500 bucks for the whole job. Installed a new pump seal, rear main seal, flex plate, torque converter bolts, and the seal between the trans/transfer case. It was to the point of I couldnt even go down the highway without it feeling like it was going to rattle apart. Didnt want to screw anything else up. So now this just buys me a little more time to secure all the parts for the engine and do that at a later date. That is just how it goes sometimes


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Sydenstricker Landscaping;1046225 said:


> So the issue was 3 loose torque converter bolts. They were loose long enough to hog out the holes on the original plate and cause it to make that lovely noise.





B&B;1042423 said:


> If you want to check something on your own you can pop the tin plug from the bottom of the bell housing and reach up in with a wrench to be sure none of the converter bolts are loose. Seen a few that were and cause a ticking sound that varied by temp and gear.


Hmmm......


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

B&B;1046380 said:


> Hmmm......


LOL yes you were right.  Should have checked this when it started back in the winter and not wait so long to do. But I needed the rear main seal done, so it all had to get ripped apart anyways. Thank you again for your help B&B:waving:


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Nothing you did wrong or could have done anyway (who checks converter bolts as PM?), the fault is on the shoulders of the last guy who installed the trans...loctite isn't an option, it's a requirement. And this is exactly what happens when it's not used where it should be.

But I'd still pull the engine. Need to get those goodies in there.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Yeah this is why I will never ever let a stealership work on my truck. They did the trans in it when I got it. Frickin morons My guy put loctite on everything, so this shouldnt be a an issue again. 

This kinda put a damper on the funds for the engine stuff. Got like 70% of it, but I need to save more up again first. Hopefully by the end of summer I should be all set for the engine stuff.


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