# Rear Rack Lights-DIY- 2000 Chevy 2500



## joshg (Nov 12, 2009)

Thought I would share how I installed and mounted lights on my headache rear cab rack.

Materials: 
Tuff LED 4" 27W 1550 Lumen Lights
Wire
Waterproof butt connectors
Weather pack style Weather proof Connectors (pins, sockets, seals, male, female) 
PG7 Waterproof Bulkhead Gland Connector
GM OEM Back Panel-Vent Valve 13596856 (mine were shot)
Aluminum Mounting Plates
T Slot Nuts  (your size for cab rack)

I already mounted some lights on my bumper for plowing but wanted some more lights on the rack higher up for other work and extra plowing light in certain conditions. See the bumper light install here.

I got a cab rack (headache rack)...see this thread.

So I wanted to put to use the existing light circuit in my truck with the plow package. See the upfitter documents for your year truck. On mine its this one. It mentions:


> Emergency Roof Mounted Lamp. This provision includes a dash mounted switch
> a relay and wiring which is routed up along the Left Hand B pillar and terminates at
> the roof as coiled blunt cut wires (see Figure 1). There are two blunt cut wires, 12
> gauge (3.0mm) wires, one is Brown (roof mounted lamp power), it is controlled by
> ...


Wiring
With quiet in the cab I could hear the relay clicking when I engaged the button on my dash so it seemed my factory circuit was intact. I pulled the fuse and took out the pillar interior to get to the relay and then chase the wires up into the headliner. As it happens I was able to pull the wires down without removing the headliner. I had just planned to cut above the factory relay but used the existing pigtail. After removing a prior extravagant mice nest in the pillar and various other behind the panel/rubber floor goodies crying I noticed signs of some water entering the cab in the past mad. I found the "vents" at the rear of cab were all worn and the flaps that act as a one way valve were torn. For 10$ I got some new ones on ebay (GM OEM) and devised a new way to run the wires up to the headache rack. I used a couple pieces of aluminum flashing and a bulkhead connector to seal off the lowest vent and a place to run in the wire for the lighting.


























This allowed me to run wire from passenger side below rear window inside the cab in factory wire path neatly. I ensured water would not easily run in on wires with a drip loop below the entry point. I butt spliced the power out of the relay wires (factory) to the two sets of wire going out of the cab. Then up at the rear rack I terminated each of the Tuff light factory wires with at weatherpack connector. I terminated the power wires with a mating wire pack so if I ever need to replace a light, reposition, etc it will be quick and without wiring. The weatherpacks assembled easily with a normal wire stripper if careful (look on youtube for how-to).

















The "aux" button is for this project (upper switch for my past lights)









Mounting

To mount the lights I used the stainless hardware that came with the lights and then modified some aluminum plates from mcmaster. Modified them to work with the light bolts and then mounted to the t-slot using a t-slot nut on the dee zee rack. Getting the right nut size was trial and error as the t slot didn't appear standard to those I grabbed on mcmaster. Not sure my linked is the final one I found fit, measure yours. I jammed some rubber feet I had into the heat fins on the back of the lights to keep them from rubbing/rattling against rack.


























I zip tied and made the wiring as out of the way as possible. Actually think the weatherpacks might be rattling a bit on rough roads so may need to dampen/secure more. 









Put everything back together and waited for darkness. First dark picture is with the soundoffs on the bumper. Second picture is with both. Lighting pictures are tough but gives general idea of improvement. I am happy with results so far. The high position and flood really wash out a lot of light and the bed. So as I've seen other people write I think the lights on the bumper...or other low spots are best for back up lighting. The new lights are great for lighting up a whole yard, and work. Still could do some work with positioning/aiming.


































Hope this might help another with their project or ideas. I've gotten a lot from here.


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## Potomac Lawns (Jan 28, 2004)

looks good nice install


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