# Upper-fitter switches....



## Jayson_109 (Jan 27, 2009)

Just curious what anyone might have their switches controlling??? Just plow power, and light over-ride for now on mine. Think strobes are next..


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## Pristine PM ltd (Oct 15, 2005)

salter on the dump insert, blue light, rear flood lights, anything you want. They are a ***** to hook up, but once hooked up, work great and are neat and tidy.


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

salter power and strobes..debating rear floods


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## plowinginma (Oct 22, 2005)

I am sure that everyone knows they have a different amp rating for each switch.. you may have to relay the last two if your running something powerful...


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

30 30 15 and 10 comes to mind, its in the owners manual........


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## KJ Cramer (Aug 20, 2009)

Rear Floods, High idle, Mini light bar, nothing yet, correct order left to right 30, 30, 10, 15, and I think they are a breeze to hook up. I also overrided the ignition on so the switches are alwasy hot so I can turn them on with out the keys being in the vehicle.


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

what did you do to "over ride the ign on" kj?


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## KJ Cramer (Aug 20, 2009)

In the wiring harness between where the switches get power (the plug that plugs into other wiring harness up above the column on the passenger side of the column) and the switches, I cut back the sheathing and exposed the several wires inside. The green wire is the power wire for the switches when the ignition is on, I spliced into that and ran another wire from the the switch end of the green wire to the battery, fused it with a 10amp fuse, taped the end of the green wire that leads back to the harness so it wouldn't ground out on anything. Its not hard, very little wire and room to work with, but not hard, took about 20 minutes start to finish, pulling everything off and putting it all back together.

You can also research it on the Internet, thats where I found it. The above is how I did it, works great, just remember to turn them off.

If you have anyother questions or need more details PM me.


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

that might be a project well worth doing. I don't find myself wanting it often but being able to leave the stobes on when the trucks parked would be nice sometimes. thanks for the info


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## RobbieB (Feb 9, 2008)

I run my front strobes, rear strobes and rear floods.


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## rob_cook2001 (Nov 15, 2008)

KJ how did you hook up the high Idle on your 6.4? I wired it up on all my 6.0's but have not looked at doing it on my new truck.
Thanks
Robert
O and for the thread I have one running my pump for my transfer tank.
On my race truck I have one for arming the Nitrous, one for purging the nitrous and one for each stage :}


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## ColliganLands (Sep 4, 2008)

strobes, extra backup lights, highidle


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## KJ Cramer (Aug 20, 2009)

rob_cook2001;863472 said:


> KJ how did you hook up the high Idle on your 6.4? I wired it up on all my 6.0's but have not looked at doing it on my new truck.
> Thanks
> Robert
> O and for the thread I have one running my pump for my transfer tank.
> On my race truck I have one for arming the Nitrous, one for purging the nitrous and one for each stage :}


Rob - 
Its the same as the 6.0's, same color wire and everything. I have the BCP wire hooked up, I don't have the PTO option and I only wanted to do it to prevent wet stacking and so I could get cabin heat a little faster.

If I remember correctly I think I even used the '05-'06 superduty instructions.

If you need more help or details PM me.


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## jt5019 (Aug 28, 2003)

I run all my blue led's for the fire dept on the first switch. The second switch is all my amber led's for landscaping/plowing. Nothing on the last two switches yet.


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## rob_cook2001 (Nov 15, 2008)

Thanks KJ, all I want it for is to protect against wet stacking also. I should still have the 6.0 directions but if not I will PM you.
thanks
Robert


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

rob just did the high idle on my truck a few weeks ago made it variable if your intersted the normal instructions are also included 6th or 7th post in the thread. double check the wiring at the body builders site if you like as I don't supply warranties but thats what I did and it works for me.

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=85107&highlight=08+f-250+high+idle


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## sbrennan007 (Jul 27, 2003)

KJ-

I like this idea allot and think I might do the same, but if you only put a 10A fuse in, aren't you limiting your 30 30 10 15A to 10A total, or does this work somewhat differently.

-Thanks.



KJ Cramer;801475 said:


> In the wiring harness between where the switches get power (the plug that plugs into other wiring harness up above the column on the passenger side of the column) and the switches, I cut back the sheathing and exposed the several wires inside. The green wire is the power wire for the switches when the ignition is on, I spliced into that and ran another wire from the the switch end of the green wire to the battery, fused it with a 10amp fuse, taped the end of the green wire that leads back to the harness so it wouldn't ground out on anything. Its not hard, very little wire and room to work with, but not hard, took about 20 minutes start to finish, pulling everything off and putting it all back together.
> 
> You can also research it on the Internet, thats where I found it. The above is how I did it, works great, just remember to turn them off.
> 
> If you have anyother questions or need more details PM me.


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

KJ no to jump in but (I will anyways as the question isn`t answered yet and I looked it up my self after KJ described it earlier)

SBrennan

open the following link https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2008/bb_pdf/349.pdf
gotta love the body builders site

locate cpb42 thats the green wire in kj`s instructions that is at the extreme left of the diagram it is hot only in run ie key forward

the relays are hot at all times and fused with there respective ratings 30 30 10 15 your upfitter switches provide twelve volts to the coil of the relay they control pulling the contact from the normaly open position to closed turning on whatever it is you have connected

KJ is taking a fused source of power from the battery

(you can also do it from unused terminals in your in cab fuse panel either buy a inline fuse harness and put a spade on one end or you can pull the panel and go from the back or piggy back a fuse with a small spade connection but be very carful doing that if you put the connector on the wrong side of the fuse it is UNFUSED)

and running it to a switch from the other end of the switch he is splicing into that green wire.

that switch does not need ignition power to operate and provides power to your upfitter switches which in turn power the coils of the relays which actually turn on whatever your running.

the ten amp fuse he is adding is to protect your switches and relay coils just as the factory green wire is fused (F42 top left of diagram) for ten amps. It also protects our freshly run wire which is very rarely as well protected as factory harnesses if the insulation ever rubs through and grounds without a fuse there is a very real possibilty of burning your ride to the ground!! on that note locate your fuse as close as possible to where you drew power (ie if at battery as close to the battery as possible)

probably a bit more long winded then what you were looking for but hey better a bit to much info then not enough!


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## ZamboniHDB (May 8, 2004)

Luke_P;801277 said:


> 30 30 15 and 10 comes to mind, its in the owners manual........


'05 - '07 switches have an amp rating of 30 - 30 - 10 - 10

'08 - '10 switches have an amp rating of 30 - 30 - 10 - 15

Plenty of options to do as you wish.

Depending on the truck, I run floods, warning lights, SEIC a.k.a. elevated idle, and clutch pumps.

Just my .02¢


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## KJ Cramer (Aug 20, 2009)

SBrennan - Luke P answered your question

Make sure you fuse it

Thanks Luke P

Agreed, long winded, but it draws it all out in case your not mechanically inclined.


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