# oil pan fun



## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

Just starting to get a look at the trucks for winter and this one is rotted in the pan


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

heres the pictures guess what motor yet?


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

yep another 7.3 oil pan .It came out pretty easy only took 6 hours by myself and I left the cab on.


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

Want to do mine?


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

no thanks I have 1 more it looks like.


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## affekonig (Aug 5, 2008)

Any word on rusty trucks for sale?


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

I have to give you credit for doing it the "right" way, but you really didn't have to pull the motor.


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

got-h2o;797789 said:


> you really didn't have to pull the motor.


How would you do it?

Just curious since I need it done.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

cretebaby;797791 said:


> How would you do it?
> 
> Just curious since I need it done.


Cut out the subframe and re-weld it back in. The thought of that may make some cringe, but it's actually quite common. The Ford sub frames are actually quite thin anyhow. Any decent welder/fabber can handle the job. I know for a fact some dealers do it on trucks, especially out of warranty, higher milage trucks. It's a good thing to look for when buying a used truck, and many overlook it.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

This works especially well when there's a plow mount up front. The motor mounts and front axle/springs hold the frame together anyhow during the process, but a plow mount is even a little extra "shoring"! Its just best to do the complete job and not move the truck around during the process.


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

I prefer to pull the motor as they always need more than just the oil pan and it makes it much easier to do as we dont have a hoist to work under.


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## Midwest BuildIt Inc (Nov 14, 2004)

I have done a couple of 7.3 oil pans this way...

unbolt motor mounts
unbolt front cab mounts, leave the rear.
lift motor with hoist, when it hits the body keep lifting till there is room to get the pan off
(may not work on pickups, ive done this on dumps, make sure the cab doesn't hit the bed)
depending on year of truck, there may be some misc. things to disconnect.
(steering shaft, wiring , just let the brake lines stretch out, and so on)
change oil pan
put back together.

I have done two this way, I am in no way telling anyone that this will work on your truck. lol. but it has worked both times for me,


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Mine started leaking and I went the JB Weld route. Drained pan, time for an oil change anyway. Sanded down to bare metal, cleaned with brake cleaner. Let sit overnite then put the JB to it. Been running it for 2 months now, no issues, but if it goes I'll either cut the cross member and re-weld, or try lifting it enough to get the pan out.

Here's a link to one that was cut:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/797849-oil-pan-replaced-cob-job-way-56k-wrning.html


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## EaTmYtAiLpIpEs (Aug 23, 2007)

ya I was told just lift the engine. not take it out. but if thats whta you prefer thats cool.


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## affekonig (Aug 5, 2008)

Hey, I got your message late last ngiht and didn't get a chance to call you back, but I'd like to talk... Oh, and these look like a fun job. Good work.


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## wkahler (Mar 15, 2008)

Anyone had someone do this for them, AKA dealer or local guy?? Just wondering what this is going to cost on average. Mine is looking rough, but no leaks yet, crossing my fingers that it holds out for another year!!!


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

You wondering about the pulling of the engine, or cutting the frame and re-welding? Guys on the Ford truck forums say it takes at least 12 hours to pull the engine and put back in and I've seen quotes as high as $2000 to do the job on the forums. Couldn't tell ya what it costs to cut and weld, but most of the ones I've seen on the forums say it's about a 4 hour job, with a lot less hassle.



wkahler;798571 said:


> Anyone had someone do this for them, AKA dealer or local guy?? Just wondering what this is going to cost on average. Mine is looking rough, but no leaks yet, crossing my fingers that it holds out for another year!!!


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

I had a freind who brought his 99PSD to a local welding shop with a new oil pan in hand. The shop put the truck up on a lift drained the oil, and cut the bottom of the pan off, they took the new pan and cut the bottom off, then they TIG welded the new bottom onto the old pan, they primed and painted it, job took about 4 hours and cost him $350 for the welding shop labor. That was nearly three years ago and I still see the truck on a regular basis and no leaks.


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## deicepro (Mar 24, 2009)

Yuck! this brings back memories. my 2002 450 needed a pan and i lifted the motor til the turbo hit the cab and that was not enough room and i did not want to go any farther, i can do smaller thing but this was too much for me. I called around and most didnt want to do it and a few wanted $2000, then I thought I got lucky and found a guy to replace with a new pan for $1400, that sounded great until I found a younger out of work heavy diesel mechanic that did the whole thing for $700 pan included! What a pain in the a**! I'm not looking forward to the next one!


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Yup, few on the Ford forums went this route....



Nascar24;798785 said:


> Hi
> 
> I had a freind who brought his 99PSD to a local welding shop with a new oil pan in hand. The shop put the truck up on a lift drained the oil, and cut the bottom of the pan off, they took the new pan and cut the bottom off, then they TIG welded the new bottom onto the old pan, they primed and painted it, job took about 4 hours and cost him $350 for the welding shop labor. That was nearly three years ago and I still see the truck on a regular basis and no leaks.


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Yup, it's a Pi** poor design, no questions about it, and the rate you were quoted is the norm from what I've read ($1200-$2000). You sure did luck out with the young mechanic!



deicepro;798934 said:


> Yuck! this brings back memories. my 2002 450 needed a pan and i lifted the motor til the turbo hit the cab and that was not enough room and i did not want to go any farther, i can do smaller thing but this was too much for me. I called around and most didnt want to do it and a few wanted $2000, then I thought I got lucky and found a guy to replace with a new pan for $1400, that sounded great until I found a younger out of work heavy diesel mechanic that did the whole thing for $700 pan included! What a pain in the a**! I'm not looking forward to the next one!


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Sure would be nice if some company came out with an aftermarket thicker steel or even aluminum pan...


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## wkahler (Mar 15, 2008)

This is what I'm talking about!!! now did they have to cut out the frame still or just cut the old one out and then match the cut on the new one and go for it from there. I was wondering about painting it with some bedliner spray?!?!



Nascar24;798785 said:


> Hi
> 
> I had a freind who brought his 99PSD to a local welding shop with a new oil pan in hand. The shop put the truck up on a lift drained the oil, and cut the bottom of the pan off, they took the new pan and cut the bottom off, then they TIG welded the new bottom onto the old pan, they primed and painted it, job took about 4 hours and cost him $350 for the welding shop labor. That was nearly three years ago and I still see the truck on a regular basis and no leaks.


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

where do they rot out???


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Usually right on the bottom, just in back of, or in front of the drain plug. Some, however seem to go on the side.



02powerstroke;800871 said:


> where do they rot out???


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Luckily my 97 looked like the day it was made. At times It would show a spot of rust here or there wich I always sanded and repainted only to have a tiny bubble show up else where. If u u let the tiny bubble go untouched U will end up having to replace the pan. I do the same on customers trucks at oil changes a small amount of maintance is all it has taken for me.


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## deicepro (Mar 24, 2009)

02powerstroke;800871 said:


> where do they rot out???


The whole bottom half of my pan was ready to fall apart, it was dripping oil out the side.


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## wkahler (Mar 15, 2008)

Well sanded and painted the bottom of mine for a band aid fix. That is where the most of my rust is but i noticed a good start on the front of the pan also, so not sure if the welding idea would work for mine!!


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

wkahler;802487 said:


> Well sanded and painted the bottom of mine for a band aid fix. That is where the most of my rust is but i noticed a good start on the front of the pan also, so not sure if the welding idea would work for mine!!


Rust doctor is some awsome stuff If u have not tried it.


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## wkahler (Mar 15, 2008)

Anything with the word doctor in is it worth a shot  I might go over the paint with that!! i used some body paint, just what i had laying around!!


brad96z28;802656 said:


> Rust doctor is some awesome stuff If u have not tried it.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

i sell a fiberglass pan shell that you fully adhere to the pan sump with a polysulphide adhesive sealant,ive done a hundred of them over 5 years never had a problem.the reason these pans rot out is they are a deep drawn stamping with poor e-coat corrosion proofing,the pan gets thin in the sump area esp the corners thats usually the prime spot.i would never let anyone cut my x member out.the guys that do it in frame dont realize they are doing more work to get around pulling the engine than if they just pulled the engine,the chances of a perfect job done in chassis are slim ,ask how many pans leaked after. you need a clean, dry, pan surface for the sealer to be effective it is almost imposssible to not get a drip of oil on the pan rail done in chassis.ive redone many that have been" hacked ".98 and above are the easy ones to pull.or just buy me pan saver kit 235.00. good luck


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Hm,"you need a clean, dry, pan surface for the sealer to be effective" Guess that would hold true with your kit too? How much surface prep is needed?



damian;1034575 said:


> i sell a fiberglass pan shell that you fully adhere to the pan sump with a polysulphide adhesive sealant,ive done a hundred of them over 5 years never had a problem.the reason these pans rot out is they are a deep drawn stamping with poor e-coat corrosion proofing,the pan gets thin in the sump area esp the corners thats usually the prime spot.i would never let anyone cut my x member out.the guys that do it in frame dont realize they are doing more work to get around pulling the engine than if they just pulled the engine,the chances of a perfect job done in chassis are slim ,ask how many pans leaked after. you need a clean, dry, pan surface for the sealer to be effective it is almost imposssible to not get a drip of oil on the pan rail done in chassis.ive redone many that have been" hacked ".98 and above are the easy ones to pull.or just buy me pan saver kit 235.00. good luck


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

damian;1034575 said:


> i sell a fiberglass pan shell that you fully adhere to the pan sump with a polysulphide adhesive sealant,ive done a hundred of them over 5 years never had a problem.the reason these pans rot out is they are a deep drawn stamping with poor e-coat corrosion proofing,the pan gets thin in the sump area esp the corners thats usually the prime spot.i would never let anyone cut my x member out.the guys that do it in frame dont realize they are doing more work to get around pulling the engine than if they just pulled the engine,the chances of a perfect job done in chassis are slim ,ask how many pans leaked after. you need a clean, dry, pan surface for the sealer to be effective it is almost imposssible to not get a drip of oil on the pan rail done in chassis.ive redone many that have been" hacked ".98 and above are the easy ones to pull.or just buy me pan saver kit 235.00. good luck


The factory finish is not e-coat (electrodeposition primer). If it were, it would cover the entire surface of the pan - inside and out. These pans are only painted on the outside - and thus are not e-coat. (Why paint the inside when it's bathed in oil?) Another benefit of an e-coat finish is superior corrosion resistance compared to conventional paint. As many of us have seen, "superior corrosion resistance" is not a phrase any of us use in reference to this part.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

these pans are most definitely finished inside and out,ive installed enough to know.as to why something needs paint when bathed in oil,its called condensation.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

hey you guys are way too smart for me,dellwas,you got me i guess my pan shell doesnt work,just dont tell the hundred or so have used it over 5 years.this is the problem with internet forums,some folks cant be helped,most try to be an expert out of their field. you need common sense and sound judgement to form you own opinions.two points to any of you who can tell me what a polysulphide sealant is most commonly used for.


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

is the pan prep the same as when using a rust-converting primer?


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

the prep is; remove the loose rust ect w/36 grit paper,i use an air grinder/sander,i get it as good as reasonably possible,i let the pan drain over nite usually to make sure it wont leak a drop,i wipe the pan down w/mek or acetone,i apply the polysulphide adhesive sealant like frosting a cake to the pan and the shell,i install the shell and put a jack under it with some wood wedges on the filter side and one on th flywheel side,thats it. i do one in 2 hours and give it 30 hours to cure.the better you prep the better the result.


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## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

damian;1035034 said:


> hey you guys are way too smart for me,dellwas,you got me i guess my pan shell doesnt work,just dont tell the hundred or so have used it over 5 years.this is the problem with internet forums,some folks cant be helped,most try to be an expert out of their field. you need common sense and sound judgement to form you own opinions.two points to any of you who can tell me what a polysulphide sealant is most commonly used for.


Polysulphide adhesives and sealants are resins that provide a flexible and chemically resistant adhesive or sealant. Single component polysulphide resins are commonly used as construction sealants. Two component epoxy-polysulphide resins provide an adhesive with greater toughness and the sacrifice of some tensile strength compared to pure epoxy resins. Polysulphide adhesives and sealants have excellent resistance to fuels, ozone, salt water, and sunlight.

Polysulphide adhesives and sealants are often used in construction to seal off joints and channels. Polysulphide sealant provides a waterproof seal minimizing the risk of water leaking into an area and causing damage or erosion. Polysulphide adhesives and sealants are applied using a caulking gun or can be poured directly from the container for large surface area applications. The surface area must be cleaned and in some cases specially treated for the polysulphide adhesive to adhere properly. For example, non-porous materials such as glass or metal should be cleaned with toluene before using a polyadhesive resin. Adhesives and sealants made with sulphides are commonly used in large civil engineering applications, including sealing channels in reservoirs and dams, culverts, canals, and flood control waterways. They are also used in high traffic public areas such as in the expansion and contraction joints in sidewalks or floors because they can form a flexible bond that expands and contracts with weather conditions without breaking down.

Polysulphide adhesives and sealants are used in the aerospace industry to seal fuel tanks and aircraft fuselages. Since polysulphide adhesives and sealants are resistant to fuels and other chemicals, they can provide a secure, long-lasting seal in these aviation components. These sulphide based polymers are often two-component sealants, using a manganese-dioxide curing agent. A polysulphide adhesive may also be used as a sealing agent between the wooden planks or decking of a boat.


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Pal, I was asking a legitimate question, as it may have been an option if my JB welded one started to leak again. With your attitude, though, you can put it where the sun don't shine. Congrats on probably losing a sale.



damian;1035034 said:


> hey you guys are way too smart for me,dellwas,you got me i guess my pan shell doesnt work,just dont tell the hundred or so have used it over 5 years.this is the problem with internet forums,some folks cant be helped,most try to be an expert out of their field. you need common sense and sound judgement to form you own opinions.two points to any of you who can tell me what a polysulphide sealant is most commonly used for.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

cretebaby;797791 said:


> How would you do it?
> 
> Just curious since I need it done.


Is there something you'd like to share......?


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

sorry dellwas,i read so much nonsense on this sight from "plow sparks'' it makes me crazy how much disinformation gets spread around.there are even guys telling you 6.0 diesels are great.im not especially interested in making internet sales as i cant keep up with my local stuff,but i apologize just the same. and good job to liegh on his polysulphide research he got it right especially the aircraft application part.i have seen every epoxy repair,jb weld,silicone patch,fiberglas and resin,gas tank patch leak repair.none has worked for long.


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Thanks for the apology...maybe I'll pick your brain some on this. Hey, maybe a Cdn.Division, I'll soon be retiring! *smile*



damian;1039195 said:


> sorry dellwas,i read so much nonsense on this sight from "plow sparks'' it makes me crazy how much disinformation gets spread around.there are even guys telling you 6.0 diesels are great.im not especially interested in making internet sales as i cant keep up with my local stuff,but i apologize just the same. and good job to liegh on his polysulphide research he got it right especially the aircraft application part.i have seen every epoxy repair,jb weld,silicone patch,fiberglas and resin,gas tank patch leak repair.none has worked for long.


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## powerstroke7.3 (Nov 24, 2009)

Has anyone tried this fiberglass cover? i'm interested in trying it.


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Definitly has my interest piqued...



powerstroke7.3;1042842 said:


> Has anyone tried this fiberglass cover? i'm interested in trying it.


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## powerstroke7.3 (Nov 24, 2009)

I emailed a couple times but haven't heard back


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

anyone interested in my oil pan fix can call me at my shop 508-588-5970 my name is damian frattasio,i run damian diesel in avon mass.the kit is 235.00,i install it for 650.00 which includes the kit and oil and filter.


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## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

But you won't ship to Canada, right?



damian;1043318 said:


> anyone interested in my oil pan fix can call me at my shop 508-588-5970 my name is damian frattasio,i run damian diesel in avon mass.the kit is 235.00,i install it for 650.00 which includes the kit and oil and filter.


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## nsf (Jun 11, 2010)

*Oil Pan Kit*

Hello,

I have the same oil pan issue that everyone on this thread has discussed. I have also tried every suggestion mentioned including the JB Weld experiment. Now that I have personal experience with these band aids I am interested in the fiberglass replacement kit mentioned by Damian. Coincidently I was discussing my ongoing oil pan issue with a friend who told me that his friend had purchased the fiberglass replacement kit from Damian (didn't know the rest of the name or company). Well he said the replacement worked perfectly and mentioned that there was a video that went along with the kit which helped him to install it in less than 2 hours. Anyway can you contact me or provide me with contact information as to how I would get one of these kits?


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Damien has a good reputation around, I hear his name often here in the auto buisness.


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

sorry double post


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

"anyone interested in my oil pan fix can call me at my shop 508-588-5970 my name is damian frattasio,i run damian diesel in avon mass.the kit is 235.00,i install it for 650.00 which includes the kit and oil and filter. "[/QUOTE] as quoted above.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

go to youtube and search 7.3 rusted oil pan you will see what i am talking about,thanks for the interest.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

hey brad,thanks for the kind words,i fly out east taunton every sunday morn,hope i dont wake you.im usually in the dark blue and yellow pitts special small biplane.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Ah thats cool. I wanted to call u the other day And see if u could point me in the right direction. Was working on a 7.3 that had a few codes I have not chased before.I cant remember what they are now. I have them written down at work. The truck has a noticable skip. And i came up with codes for injectors on the passenger side 1 and 5? I When I had performed a buzz test.Testing had me at the valve covers I got 3.2 ohms From each injector. Customer also stated all the injectors have been recently done. Fresh oil change and idm replaced. Some one has been throwning parts at it. Next step was to follow the wires back from the injectors But was looking for ur input. I did not have alot of time to work on it inbetween other jobs while customer waited. But its due to come back when the customer can leave it with me for the day. Its a 2000 f 350. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. I will also try to post back with the actual codes. Also forgot to mention valve cover gaskets and under vc wiring changed at time of injector replacement. Atlast thats what customer says.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

check drivers side engine harness where it goes over valve cover,popular chaffe spot,call with codes mon morn.508-588-5970 do you know manny and bones from mannys auto?


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

damian;1051665 said:


> check drivers side engine harness where it goes over valve cover,popular chaffe spot,call with codes mon morn.508-588-5970 do you know manny and bones from mannys auto?


I sure do. My dads garage is only about a mile from them.


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