# Front Shocks



## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

So I went to replace my shocks all the way around and when I went to go do the fronts since the torsion bars are raised all the way I would have had to jack up the whole wheel bearing and control arms just to get the bolt in the bottom of the shock. So I said to myself this doesnt seem right and I ordered front shocks from summit with a 2" lift on them so compensate for the t-bars being raised. Has anyone else ever done this? Any other suggestions?


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## thesnowman269 (Nov 7, 2009)

No thats right. you made the front sit higher so you extended the shock more then it should be I suppose, The shock was not long enough in other words. I dont know what the shocks are like on your trucks (cause iv never worked on one hmmm) but I know for the shocks on my truck you can buy a stud extender that just extends the bolt on the top of the shock. If you dont have a stud on top of the shock I dont think you have any other options but to buy the hocks that are compatible with the 2in lift. If all that makes sence...


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

Yeah it makes sence but you are a ford guy what are you always doing over here hijacking my threads? :waving:


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## thesnowman269 (Nov 7, 2009)

Well Mario had a chevy and I got to work on it a few times. But its mostly the same on every Truck


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

thesnowman269;975115 said:


> Well Mario had a chevy and I got to work on it a few times. But its mostly the same on every Truck


Im just bustin your balls.


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## thesnowman269 (Nov 7, 2009)

hah.......


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## Snowzilla (Oct 24, 2009)

That makes sense. When people crank torsion bars to raise the front end - it raises the front end - but you also loose downward travel. I once did this on a K1500 and kept actually ripping the lower bolt eyelet of the shock out.

I have seen many "leveling kits" available that accomplish this by replacing the Torsion Keys with altered ones. For the shocks the cheaper kits have shock extension brackets. The more expensive kits offer longer replacement shocks.


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

Snowzilla;975143 said:


> That makes sense. When people crank torsion bars to raise the front end - it raises the front end - but you also loose downward travel. I once did this on a K1500 and kept actually ripping the lower bolt eyelet of the shock out.
> 
> I have seen many "leveling kits" available that accomplish this by replacing the Torsion Keys with altered ones. For the shocks the cheaper kits have shock extension brackets. The more expensive kits offer longer replacement shocks.


Yeah basically when I hit a hole in the rode the shock was extended all the way already so the truck took the hit and not the shock, but for a bump there was obviously enough travel for the shock to absorb it.


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## thesnowman269 (Nov 7, 2009)

explaining why you thought it was time to replace your shocks


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

thesnowman269;975159 said:


> explaining why you thought it was time to replace your shocks


And the fact I could see oil leaking out of them


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## thesnowman269 (Nov 7, 2009)

yes sir you are correct


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## Snowzilla (Oct 24, 2009)

Yep, sometimes factory design isn't made to be messed with without effecting the Yin-Yang of other things. The Timbren rubber bump stops might be a wiser route for stock trucks. Cranking torsion bars also increase the spring rate and make for stiffer ride.

Leveling kits and suspension kits work but increasing truck height isn't always good for snow plow mounts without refabrication.


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

I think its going to be trial and error but i already have timbrens on there with the t-bars all the way up


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## rbi014 (Nov 6, 2009)

Contemplating replacing my front shocks. From my initial research, Bilsteins have different P/Ns depending upon how much lift the truck has, so it appears they have already factored in the guys cranking torsion bars and adding timbrens.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

The OEM shocks aren't long enough to use the full suspension travel available whether you touch the T-bars or not. And that is where a difference in ride quality can come from once you make a major adjustment. As you begin to use the upper range of the suspension, it becomes quite clear that the shocks are too short thus necessitating the need for extenders or longer shocks. An easy fix.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

rbi014;975318 said:


> Contemplating replacing my front shocks. From my initial research, Bilsteins have different P/Ns depending upon how much lift the truck has, so it appears they have already factored in the guys cranking torsion bars and adding timbrens.


Yes Bilstein has a p/n specifically for these trucks as they knew the stockers were too short too. They're a night and day difference in ride quality too. Guys think they ride nice stock...until they add a set of Bilstein's.


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

Thanks for the confirmation B&B. They should be here today from Summit.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

I just ordered a set of Bilstein 5100 series for the front and back of the chevy 2500 today from shockwarehouse.com. Total price of $302.00 with free shipping and then I found a discount code on retailmenot.com for an extra 5% off. Total cost of $287.00 and free 3 days shipping to my door. I went with the longer ones since B&B told me a long time to go with them due to the cranked t bars and airbags in the rear. Excited to see the difference in the ride. How hard of a switch out is it. My buddy Tony and I are going to take it on. Thanks
Aaron


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

The front shocks are easy. A lil impact gun work on the bottom bolt gets it loose real easy. The top bolt, pending how old the old shocks are, could be rusted on and the top stud will spin. Easiest way I found was just cut the nut off and it will come right out. You wont hurt anything that way either. The back shocks could be a pain. The top mounts in these stupid things have 2 little bolts in a pocket against the bed. If they are rusted in any way, just torch the GD things out, dont waste the time doing anything else. I spent ALOT of time throwing tools and swearing under mine to get those stupid things in the top apart. With a torch, few minutes and done......be careful around the gas tank, LOL 

On edit, wear a hard hat under the back. I clonked my head on everything and anything too. Unless you are doing it on a lift, then you will be fine


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

On edit, wear a hard hat under the back. I clonked my head on everything and anything too. Unless you are doing it on a lift, then you will be fine[/QUOTE]

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: Then when you think your in the clear of getting out of the back you forget your hitch is on and it smashes you in the head and you are ready to throw it at the truck, then thats when you get the orange rattle can out to make it visible.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Sydenstricker Landscaping;975717 said:


> The top mounts in these stupid things have 2 little bolts in a pocket against the bed. If they are rusted in any way, just torch the GD things out, dont waste the time doing anything else. I spent ALOT of time throwing tools and swearing under mine to get those stupid things in the top apart.


 Fortunately only the 1500 and 2500's are that way. The HD's have a regular old bolt and nut arrangement. Because yes those twin small bolts are no fun when rusty. Pulling the spare tire down helps but that in itself often times opens up a whole new can of worms.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

How long do you think it will take us to do all four corners? We have all the tools I believe, do we need a shock compression device to take them off and on? Thanks


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

Burkartsplow;976015 said:


> How long do you think it will take us to do all four corners? We have all the tools I believe, do we need a shock compression device to take them off and on? Thanks


If you are mechanically inclined you can do it in about an hour with a few beers too. I didnt use a shock compression tool, you can compress them by hand. Its pretty easy.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

NCat496;976331 said:


> If you are mechanically inclined you can do it in about an hour with a few beers too. I didnt use a shock compression tool, you can compress them by hand. Its pretty easy.


Both of us together we should not mess it up, but my buddy is going to do the same to his truck but not until we get mine done. My truck is the guinea pig. What bilsteins did you get for your truck? the HD or the 5100s?


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

Burkartsplow;976524 said:


> Both of us together we should not mess it up, but my buddy is going to do the same to his truck but not until we get mine done. My truck is the guinea pig. What bilsteins did you get for your truck? the HD or the 5100s?


I didnt go with bilsteins i went with monroes in the back and pro comps in the front.


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## rbi014 (Nov 6, 2009)

Have a 2004 2500HD with a Snoway 29 that I just use to plow a few driveways with. Last week cranked the torsion bars three turns and everything looked good on the body line, the Z measurement is 4 1/2". Maybe I'm being paranoid, but now it seems whenever I hit a bump there is a thunking noise coming from the front. Was considering the front shocks even though the truck rides pretty well but now it seems to be a sure thing

so how did the bilstein install go?


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

You need to order new shocks for the front for a 0"-2" lifted truck. Basically you dont have any travel in the shock when hitting a pothole, you have the full shock when you hit a speed bump though. It will make your front end ride better.


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## mikelawtown (Dec 5, 2004)

I'm looking to replace my worn shocks also, not looking to get the best just replace worn ones which bilsteins are the ones i need? 2002 2500 HD ex cab 6 foot bed.


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## NCat496 (Mar 30, 2008)

mikelawtown;985116 said:


> I'm looking to replace my worn shocks also, not looking to get the best just replace worn ones which bilsteins are the ones i need? 2002 2500 HD ex cab 6 foot bed.


Go with Pro-Comp I used them and they are half the price.


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