# '86 Chevy "put-puts"



## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

I recently bought a 1986 C-10 with the 305 and quadrajet. The odometer says about 75k miles, and the truck is very clean so I don't think the odometer has rolled. I'm the fourth owner, and the title says "mileage exempt" so I can't be sure about the mileage.

The truck broke down on the previous owner about a year ago, and has been sitting in his field. He told me he quit driving it when it developed a knock and had no oil pressure. Two bolts on the left exhaust manifold fixed the "knock," and a new pressure sending unit fixed the "oil pressure problem."

Since taking the truck home, I have changed the oil, changed the belts and hoses, flushed the cooling system, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the plugs and wires, and replaced the cap and rotor. I have also replaced lots of vacuum lines as I stumble across lines that have deteriorated (what a rat's nest!).

The truck also had a propane system on it that didn't have a tank. The previous owner had sold the propane system to someone else, so I took it off and returned it to him. I don't know how much the truck was operated on propane, but I am assuming that it was quite a bit.

Needless to say, the truck runs a LOT better now.

However, when you rev the engine and take your foot off the gas, the engine "put-puts" out the tailpipe as it is slowing back to idle. If you hold the engine at 2000 rpm or so (it doesn't have a tach, and I haven't hooked up my dwell meter), it also "put-puts." The engine runs smoothly otherwise, and I haven't heard it "put-putting" as I am driving.

I noticed at O'Reilly Auto they have an item listed called a "deceleration valve." Could this have something to do with this?

Could it have something to do with the engine running on propane for so long? What are the long term effects of propane operation?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Start by checking the timing,or look for a propane timing computer.Propane needs huge amounts of advance to make good power,and the excessive advance may be your problem.

BTW Welcome to Plowsite. :waving:


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Thanks Wyldman! I've been reading the posts on this board for about a month now, and your knowledge seems impressive.

I didn't realize that the timing is set differently for propane. I'll check that out and get back to you if that isn't the problem.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Why thank you.

I'm sure we can get to the bottom of you problem.Let us know how you make out.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Hey Wyldman. The timing looks to be "OK."

I found in my Chilton's manual that it says a "deceleration valve" might cause this problem. Well, I can't find a deceleration valve at any of the local parts stores, and I wanted to see what one looks like before I buy it to be sure that I actually have one.

I sent a message to Borg-Warner tech support, and got this answer:



> Unfortunately we do not have photo's of the EC1152 availabl. I tend to doubt it's causing the problem. I be more inclined to believe you have a problem in the thermatoc air control system which is allowing cool air to enter the hot exhaust system during hot decel.
> 
> Richard Lough
> Product Support Operations


So, what do you think of this response? How hard is it to diagnose the thermatic (sp?) air control system?

We are leaving for the lake for a week, but I'll be looking forward to your response with baited breath (no pun intended).

Thanks.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

You said "the timing looks OK".Did you actually check it ? was the vacuum advance disconnected,and the truck idling ? and what was it at ?

It could also be a sticky or siezed centrifugal advance.Pop the cap off and check to make sure the rotor moves freely back and forth a bit.It should move one way,and then spring back when you release it.If not,pop the rotor off and free it up.

Also take it for a test drive with the vacuum advance disconnected,and see if it makes a difference.

Does you truck actually have air injection ? If it does,you can disconnect the vacuum source to the divertor valves,so it just dumps to atmosphere,and take it for a drive.

Also double check that the choke and heat riser system (valve on exhaust,and one on the air cleaner),are opening fully when hot.

As a last resort,you can unplug all the vacuum lines and plug them up,to see if it helps.If it does,then you may have the vacuum system hooked up incorrectly.


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## snowjoker (Feb 6, 2003)

Could it possibly be the Quadrajunk? I never had any luck with those things i know you said it was rebuilt maybe an adjustment is off ? Keep us posted


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

The Quadrajet is actually an excellent carb.Best carb for all round power,drivability and economy.They have a very sensitive secondary metering system,and don't tend to "overcarb",like a Holley or others.

There are many carb adjustments,even a few which aren't really for the do it yourselfer,which could be out.The throttle shaft bushings tend to go,and it leaks air,which makes them perform poorly.

Did you rebuild the carb yourself ? If so then Walt may be right in the carb being suspect.Start with the basics first,and then if necessary,get into the carb.


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

i beleive they call the part
diverter valve
attached to the back of the airpump



cardoctor


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Any updates on the truck ?


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Funny you should ask...

After cleaning up my father-in-law's van and boat, I finally had time to look into the "put-putting" some more.

The timing is set at 4 degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance pulled and plugged, idling at 550 RPM. When you plug the vacuum advance back in, the mark jumps off the scale, and the idle goes up to about 800 RPM. When you put the truck in "drive," the idle pulls back down to about 550 RPM. I did not check the timing with it in "drive."

I pulled the distributor cap (again) and checked the centrifugal advance. It isn't stuck. However, it must have fairly heavy springs because with the vacuum advance pulled, I never saw the timing budge between idle and 1500 RPM.

I took the truck for a short drive with the vacuum advance pulled, and it didn't seem to make much difference. You may recall that I haven't heard the truck "put-putting" while driving, only when revving the engine in the driveway. With the vacuum advance pulled, it still made the strange sound in the driveway.

I pulled and plugged the vacuum lines to the diverter valve and the decel valve, and it didn't make any difference.

As best as I can tell, the early evaporation valve in the right exhaust manifold is open with the engine hot. I haven't ever seen the valve move, but I haven't owned the truck when it was below eighty degrees or so. The heat riser valve isn't hooked up. There was no air cleaner when I got the truck because it had the propane system on it. I got an air cleaner off an '85 model with a 350 at "Pull-A-Part." It fits, but I haven't taken the time to figure out how to hook up the vacuum lines. I did hook up the PCV vent, however.

I have checked the vacuum routing against the diagram on the radiator support, and they appear to at least be close. The lines that go to the air cleaner were simply removed and plugged. I haven't spent the time and money to buy a factory shop manual yet; maybe when I get one I can figure out the vacuum routing with some certainty.

I took the "quadrabog" apart and put a rebuild kit in it myself. When I got it, the truck had been running on propane so long the carb had a lot of brown stuff in it, and the accelerator pump was practically worn away. After the rebuild it runs infinitely better, but it still has a bog when you take off.

I drove the truck to work today, and took one of the guys at the office to lunch in it (what a treat!). I hadn't even discussed the troubles I've been having, but Larry spontaneously said "hey -- it sounds like your cat is clogged." Could this be a possibility? How do you check such a thing?

Sorry this got so long, but I tend to be verbose. 

Besides, I keep getting in trouble for not giving you enough information.:salute: 

Thanks for all the help.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

If the cat was plugged you would notice a large power loss.Those older pellet style convertors can't really clog or plug up anyways.

Your heat riser valve on the pass manifold may be siezed closed.It wouldn't hurt to check it closely to make sure it's open.

Try bumping up the timing some to 12-14,and leave the vacuum advance disconnected for the moment.See if it makes a difference and report back.Just curious to see what it does.

The vacuum for the air cleaner goes from manifold vaccum (usually a tee right behind carb in manifold),to the thermoswitch in the air cleaner,and the from there to the vaccum door in the snorkle.


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## chevy (Jan 21, 2002)

I been toying with my Chevy for sometime now and had a simular problem. I check pretty much everyone said in this post and then some. My problem was a bad lifter which eventually burned a valve. After a good head job and up grade to a better cam my problem was solved. Good luck


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Hey Wyldman.

I checked the heat riser valve, and it moves freely and springs back to the position its always been in. I believe that means it's "open."

I was going to move the timing like you suggested, and while I was at it I thought I would reconnect the vacuum door in the snorkel. While searching for the correct spot to connect it in, I discovered that a screw-in vacuum fitting behind the carburetor was VERY loose. I couldn't get it to tighten up, so I took it out. I found it interesting, so I took a picture of it.

I have no idea how the fitting got that messed up. It wouldn't seal to the intake, so I found a similar fitting from another old project and put it in. The truck appears to run better now, but the real story will be told when I drive it to work tomorrow. It still makes the strange sound, but it isn't as noticeable.

At idle I now have 16 inches of vacuum at the manifold, which I think is pretty good, isn't it? The vacuum is also very steady, so I don't think I have a burned valve or anything like that.

If it still runs funny I'll try the vacuum advance idea tomorrow night.

Thanks for all the help. How do you find time for profitable ventures?

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Looks like maybe someone butchered that at one time.A large vacuum leak would make it run terrible.

16 Hg of vacuum is OK at idle.If you did have a burnt valve,you would see that gauge bouncing around when that cylinder fires.

I find plenty of time for profitable ventures during the day.Most of the time I spend on here,I'm sitting at my desk doing paperwork,and overseeing the auto repair shop.Snow is very profitable for us in the winter as well.I will have a bit more free time this winter,as I sold off a large number of contracts and equipment.I need a bit of a break.I'm getting too old for these 18 hr days,and never get to see the kids as much as I'd like to.

I'm glad I could help,let me know if it's fixed.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Well, I'm still not out of the woods yet.

When I got going this morning, the engine started clattering when it warmed up. It was not like the usual acceleration clattering I'm accustomed to.

When sitting at a stop light in gear, it would clatter. When I put it in neutral, the clatter would go away. When I took off, it would hesitate a little, rattle a little louder for about a half-second, and then take off. When the truck was moving I didn't hear it clatter at all, only when sitting still and then just off idle.

After my first appointment I pulled the line off the vacuum advance. I neglected to bring anything with me to plug it with, so I just left it off (it's a little bitty line anyway). The truck stopped the clattering stuff at idle, but I still heard it a couple times when I just put my foot on the gas. There was also still a little bit of hesitation. The timing is set at 4 degrees BTDC, so I can't imagine it being too far advanced.

My wife keeps telling me to just throw in the towel and put another engine in the truck (I have a Pontiac 400 on a stand in the garage -- wouldn't THAT be an interesting combo!). I still feel certain that there is something fairly simple that someone did to it, or something simple that has been neglected.

Is it possible that the pistons have carbon buildup on them? Does running propane tend to create carbon?

Thanks.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

I doubt it's carbon buildup,as propane engines run very hot and very clean,so little or no carbon builds up.

The Pontiac 400 would be interesting,but you'd need to fabricate mounts,and stuff.It would probebly be mork work than it's worth.

Could you have checked the timing on the wrong cylinder ? #1 is the very front,drivers side.It does maybe sound like advanced timing.Maybe try to track down the rattle,and see where it's coming from.Maybe it's just something loose.Or maybe an internal engine noise ? Timing chain ?


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

While I'm not looking at the engine right now, I'm pretty sure that I had the timing light clamped to the correct plug wire. If I was on the incorrect wire, it would have been #3, and with the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, I don't see how I could have been off by ninety degrees and still gotten the engine to run at all. The engine fires right up and idles great, which also implies the timing is closer than that.

I'll look for a rattle, but why would something like the timing chain rattle with it in gear, but not out of gear?

Earlier you mentioned that with a clogged cat the power will be way down. How much power should a 305 have? The truck won't even come close to breaking the rear tires loose (even my 200k mile '77 Cutlass will run off and leave it). If memory serves me correctly, the truck has 3.26 gears with 255/70R15 tires. I mentioned the lack of power to the "friend of a friend" who gave me the lead to find the truck parked in a field, and he stated that one of the reasons the truck was parked was that it had a hard time pulling the trailer that the previous owner needed the truck to pull. (The previous owner runs a lawn mowing service. That's kinda the Oklahoma equivalent of snow-plowing.)

I'm still inclined to think there is something really simple that I am missing somewhere, and I'm close to being ready to declare "stumped." While it's a little embarrassing, my other cars are a '72 Mustang, '75 Grand Prix, '77 Cutlass, and '78 Trans Am (I also have a fleet of teenagers to go with this fleet of old cars). This truck has by far the most complicated emissions mess on it, and I'm just not acclimated to it yet.

Do you have clients that are "stumped do-it-yourselfers" who bring vehicles to you for diagnosis? Do mechanics get ticked off when guys like me bring in a project like this to get help? Will I have to re-mortgage my house to pay the bill?


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

[I don't have a clue why this post doubled up. The system wouldn't give me permission to delete the second one.]

While I'm not looking at the engine right now, I'm pretty sure that I had the timing light clamped to the correct plug wire. If I was on the incorrect wire, it would have been #3, and with the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, I don't see how I could have been off by ninety degrees and still gotten the engine to run at all. The engine fires right up and idles great, which also implies the timing is closer than that.

I'll look for a rattle, but why would something like the timing chain rattle with it in gear, but not out of gear?

Earlier you mentioned that with a clogged cat the power will be way down. How much power should a 305 have? The truck won't even come close to breaking the rear tires loose (even my 200k mile '77 Cutlass will run off and leave it). If memory serves me correctly, the truck has 3.26 gears with 255/70R15 tires. I mentioned the lack of power to the "friend of a friend" who gave me the lead to find the truck parked in a field, and he stated that one of the reasons the truck was parked was that it had a hard time pulling the trailer that the previous owner needed the truck to pull. (The previous owner runs a lawn mowing service. That's kinda the Oklahoma equivalent of snow-plowing.)

I'm still inclined to think there is something really simple that I am missing somewhere, and I'm close to being ready to declare "stumped." While it's a little embarrassing, my other cars are a '72 Mustang, '75 Grand Prix, '77 Cutlass, and '78 Trans Am (I also have a fleet of teenagers to go with this fleet of old cars). This truck has by far the most complicated emissions mess on it, and I'm just not acclimated to it yet.

Do you have clients that are "stumped do-it-yourselfers" who bring vehicles to you for diagnosis? Do mechanics get ticked off when guys like me bring in a project like this to get help? Will I have to re-mortgage my house to pay the bill?


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

OK,it sounds like the timing is pretty close then.

When you put the truck in gear,the engine loads up,and will tend to shake a bit more,which could cause something loose to rattle.The timing chain would tend to rattle more in gear,or when the throttle is snapped open or closed.

There is also the possibility it could be valve,or lifter noise.Does it sounds like that ?

Have you tried disconnecting the EGR ?

Another thought could be a camshaft.GM had a lot of problems with 305 cams,and maybe you have a lobe gone.This would cause little backfires sometimes,and a lack of power.

The 305,with 3.26 (should be 3.23 actually),and the tall tires won't be very quick.It should still run pretty well though.

I'd go back to basics.Disconnect everything,bump the timing up to 10-12 degrees BTDC,and see how it runs.No egr,no vacuum advance,nothing.Plug up all vacuum lines.If the problem is still there,then I'd pull the rocker covers,and make sure all the rockers are moving well.You would see if one was moving less,and the cam was bad.Before you put it back together,set the valves.See procedure below.

Set the engine a TDC #1,then adjust the following:

Cyls 1,3,4,8 exhaust valves
Cyls 1,2,5,7 intake valves

Turn the engine one full turn to TDC #6,and adjust the following:

Cyls 2,5,6,7 exhaust valves
Cyls 3,4,6,8 intake valves.

To set each valve,loosen the nut until the push rod is free.Run it back down until all lash is removed,and then go 1 full turn more.

While doing all this,watch the distributor rotor while you turn the crank back and forth.If the rotor takes a long time to move after the crank starts to turn,the timing chain may be badly stretched,or even jumped.

See how it runs after that.Wouldn't hurt to check compression as well.Then after all this you know if the engine is sound or not.If it still acts up,then it must be something else,like carb,or ignition.

You could take it to a mechanic,but he may not want to even bother after all you've done.I would take it on,but depending on how much time I spent checking and verifying everything,the bill could be quite large.

If your content tinkering on your own,with a little of my help,I'm sure we can walk through it,and find the cause of your problem.Check everything I suggested so we know if the engine is even worth working on.If it will help,you could call me at the shop,and maybe I could walk you through some of it on the phone (9-6 Eastern time).It's easier that way sometimes.

Number is on my website,under contact us. www.autoproformance.com


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Well Wyldman, I took the first steps last night. I unhooked most of the vacuum connections. It was getting dark, it's been a long week, and I was getting tired of messing with it, so I did NOT change the timing. You may recall it is set at 4 degrees BTDC. Besides, I'm only 5'10" and even standing on a milk crate I have a hard time getting to the distributor hold-down bolt.

I left these things connected:
- power brakes
- transmission modulator
- PCV (I installed a new hose without anything else on it)
- vacuum to the interior A/C stuff
- charcoal canister connection to what looks like a bowl vent on the carb (as an aside, why the heck are there so many connections to the charcoal canister?)
- There's an "electronic gizmo" on the firewall near the A/C box that I left hooked up (it just wasn't convenient to unhook it, as I was out of the little yellow caps)

I unhooked and plugged:
- vacuum advance
- EGR
- the A.I.R. stuff
- charcoal canister
- there's another "electronic gizmo" on the firewall near the brake booster that I unhooked (as another aside, what are those two gizmos on the firewall?)
- the old PCV hose has a four-way tee with a giant connection to the A.I.R. that I didn't reconnect, and a connection to the charcoal canister that I didn't reconnect

The verdict: it runs MUCH better. The transmission shifts better. It pulled right onto the highway without a hint of clatter. At one point I was stuck in traffic at about 30 mph on the highway, when things cleared and I accelerated the tranny downshifted -- I hadn't felt it do that before. When leaving at the light near my office there was no hesitation when I stepped on the gas.

The exhaust tone is also completely different. It no longer "put-puts" when I snap the throttle, but now it kinda "foot-foots" all the time, and it sounds like it's coming directly from the muffler rather than from the end of the tailpipe. Obviously the muffler has a leak, I just never noticed it before with the engine running so poorly.

The bottom line is: you're getting me close.

I called the Oklahoma Department of Environmental Quality and they tell me that a 1986 model vehicle is exempt from all but a "visual inspection." They look to make sure the vehicle has an EGR and EFE system and a cat in the exhaust. If the vehicle has A.I.R. they make sure there is a belt. But it's even more complicated in that Oklahoma doesn't have required vehicle inspections -- the only time it is checked is if a "state agent" (i.e. Highway Patrol) decides to pull you over and look.

No wonder we have "ozone alert" days about twice a week during hot months.

I couldn't figure out a good place in this dissertation to discuss yesterday's noise, so here it is. The noise I was hearing yesterday sounds exactly like the detonation clatter I get in my other cars if the timing is advanced too far. I'm absolutely certain I was hearing detonation. You're also correct that the gears are 3.23's. Man you're smart.

I'm assuming you want me to hook one thing back up and see what happens. What's first? Vacuum advance? Should I avoid all the thermal vacuum switches? Do I connect to ported or manifold vacuum? WHERE is ported vacuum?

Thanks for all the help so far, and to come. I really do appreciate all your time and effort on this.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

I'm just wondering what those "electronic gizmo's" are you described.I'm guessing they may be timing and fuel computers for the propane.The timing computer would cause excessive advance and cause your detonation.Can you get some pics,or maybe a mfg or part numbers off the boxes ? Which wires do they connect to,and do they both connect to vacuum ? 

It could also be possible you have a 4 wire type distributor,which should have an external EST module,so that may be one of the boxes you are seeing.Again,mfg info and part numbers may help identify them.

Also count how many wires come out of the base of the distributor,and where they go.If you have three wires,that come out of the front of the dist base,and into the distributor cap right behind the batt and tach connections.Then you have a standard HEI.If you have 4 wires,that go elswhere,then you may have an external EST module.It probably one of the two electronic gizmos you describe.

I think were on the right track.Let's figure out these electronic things first,and then we'll go step by step reconnecting everything else,and get it all set up right.In the mean time,get a good vacuum gauge,we'll need it to find the right vacuum ports.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Well, on my lunch hour I took two pictures and studied the vacuum diagram on the radiator support.

If I'm reading the vacuum diagram correctly, the gizmo by the A/C box is called the "tip in vac sw." The gizmo by the brake booster is called the "trans conv vac sw." The wires from both gizmos go into the wiring harness for the truck -- they don't appear to be add-ons.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

This is the one by the A/C box. I think it's the "tip in vac sw."

There are no obvious markings or numbers on it.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

This is the one by the brake booster. I think it's the "trans conv vac sw."

It also has no apparent markings or numbers.

The vacuum line to it goes through the little reducer thing that is half green.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

OK,those are OE parts,not add ons.They can be left in place,but you can leave them disconnected.

I'd start by reconnecting stuff one at a time,and in this order.

We'll keep the timing stock,and run the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum (vacuum all the time).This will improve idle quality,but keep detonation to a minimum.Go directly from manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance,nothing in between.Do that first,and test drive to make sure it still runs good.

Then connect the EGR valve.It must go to ported vacuum.Find a port that has no vacuum at idle,and slowly comes in off idle.For now,go direct from the port to the EGR.Test drive again to make sure everything is OK.

Then reconnect the charcoal canister stuff to the PCV Valve.Again,road test.

Lastly,connect the air injection.You may just find your problem here,so if you do,just disconnect it again,and we can trouble shoot afterwards.

Check ALL the vacuum lines you connected carefully for cracks or holes,so you don't recreate the problem with a bad line.

Let m know what you find.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Gotcha.

I'm glad we got away from pulling the valve covers and all that stuff.

It could take a few days to work through all those items. I suspect that you are correct, and the problem will show back up when I get to the emmissions stuff. With a little luck I'll leave you alone for a few days.

Thanks!


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

I'll be around off and on most of the weekend if you need me.A laptop and a wireless connection means I can go just about anywhere.


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## 84406 (Apr 27, 2003)

The switch you are looking at by the brake booster is for the convertor lock and unlock on a 700r4. It keeps the convertor from unlocking every time you move the throttle a little. It has a one way restriction in that little canister and then it goes on to the switch. I usually eliminate that and use a toggle for convertor although most folks wouldn't want to be bothered. I also would like to know more about the tip in switch so anything you find please post.
Bob


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Hey Wyldman. I thought maybe you would like to know what I've been up to today.

This morning I hooked the vacuum advance up direct to manifold vacuum. The truck ran better, but it clattered at moderate acceleration. It didn't clatter at idle, and it didn't clatter at full throttle. At part throttle it clattered.

Well, on the vacuum diagram I noticed there is a thing called a "spark delay valve." I have no idea just how it works, but I though it was worth a try, so I hooked up the vacuum lines to the two TVS's and reconnected the vacuum advance where it is supposed to be. At this point I still had the EGR and AIR system disconnected, but both "electronic gizmos" are back in business.

The truck ran great. It shifted right, it had no hesitation, and there was just a hint of clatter when getting on the highway. Just a hint. It seems like I've read somewhere that mild clatter is OK so I felt like I was on the right track.

After getting the truck home and letting it cool a little, I reconnected the EGR. Wow. Big step backward. There was hesitation, and the clatter was back. After about a 10 mile drive, I disconnected and plugged it again before I went home.

Right now I have the EGR and AIR systems disabled. I'll drive it to work on Monday before passing a final judgement, but if it runs good and gets decent mileage (can I hope for 15 mpg?) I'm inclined to just leave them disabled. This wouldn't be asking for trouble from a mechanical point of view, would it? If Oklahoma decides to do inspections...well...I'll cross that bridge if we get there.

Besides--I'm ready to move on to the next problem!

Thank you for all the help. I noticed that you have been on several other threads today, so I hope you were able to enjoy your weekend between helping all of us out.

84406: I have heard "tip in" used to refer to the instant after the accelerator pedal is depressed. I assume that the "tip in switch" has something to do with this, but I have no idea what the emission system (or transmission?) does with that information. If and when I figure it out, I'll try to remember to let you know. By the way, my truck has a TH350, not a 700R4. I haven't taken the time to see if it's a TH350C, but I'm assuming it is.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

The EGR and Air injection are for emissions only.It will not hurt to have them disconnected.

It sounds like your getting there.I'd drive it for a bit and make sure your problem is fixed.If you want to tweak it some more for some better performance or mileage,then we can look at that later.

It has been quite a busy weekend so far,and I think I had just a little too much to drink tonight.At least I got to enjoy it so far.

If it's setup right,you should be able to pull 15+ mpg out of it,as long as you keep your foot out of it.

Keep me posted on how it works.


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Well...son no. 2 turns 16 on Wednesday, so "keeping the foot out of it" probably isn't an option. This will be his driver.

If I move to Canada, will you adopt me?


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

> _Originally posted by whwright _
> *Well...son no. 2 turns 16 on Wednesday, so "keeping the foot out of it" probably isn't an option. This will be his driver.
> 
> If I move to Canada, will you adopt me? *


It seems like everybody wants to move up here with me lately. 

If you can handle 5 crazy kids,you've welcome anytime


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