# Backblade project



## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Here are some pictures of my backblade project. Putting it on my 2002 GMC 2500HD. I'm using both my fifth wheel hitch and reciever hitch to mount the backplow. I will post more pictures as I make progress.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Here is one more picture of the control switches mount after I finished welding it together.


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## pitrack (Sep 24, 2008)

That looks fun, post more once you get there.


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## G.M.Landscaping (Nov 24, 2005)

Did you build all of that from scratch or is that some kind of kit?


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## Jon Geer (Jan 21, 2002)

Very interesting. Keep the pics coming.

Jon


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

It's built from scratch, the only store bought items were the ball mount and the Reese fifth wheel hoops. It's my own design. I wanted a mount that would keep the hydraulic cylinder out of the snow. And I wanted to be able to tow a trailer without removing the plow and the mount. With this design I can just pull the four bar pins and the cylinder pin and the plow is off. The cylinder is a bucket cylinder for a New Holland skid steer. It has about a 24" stroke so the plow should lift at least 48" if needed. It has been a while since it was last mocked up, but I am finally going to finish it and put it to use.


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## plowdog (May 13, 2006)

wow! Nice clean work, keep the pics coming.


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## Superior L & L (Oct 6, 2006)

WOW that things built like a tank


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## NJ Plowman (Dec 10, 2003)

Are you doing the welding yourself?


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## Humvee27 (Feb 5, 2008)

*Nice...*

Very nice work....I'm building one also but base off of the reciever style hitch...are you going to run 12v motors or gas/hyd? I'm going to run a gas/hyd pump system based in the bed....I've going with wings on the side (fixed) to contain as much of the snow as I can. I mainly do residentials with my
truck...


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Yes me and my buddy Arnie did all of the welding and fabricating.


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## Elwer Lawn Care (Nov 23, 2007)

Thats some really nice fabrication work!


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Here is a shot of the second trailer plug that I added to run the backplow controls and emergency lights.


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## deere615 (Jun 1, 2007)

Looks great so far, was it pretty easy to add the second trailer plug thing, I was going to do that because that what I run a backup light out of


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

I just welded a piece of angle iron to the factory trailer plug mount (which I cut off a bent hitch) and bolted it to the bottom of the bumper. You will need a connector that plugs into the GM trailer plug though. Either get a used one or the GM part number for a new connector with repair harness wires is 15306164.


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## G.M.Landscaping (Nov 24, 2005)

The reason I asked if it was a kit is everything is already painted. Looks like powder coat also?

When I'm fabbing new projects, everything is built first then painted last. Looks like there's more building still. 

Looks like they were cut in a machine shop or using CNC. Very nice work.....

Can't wait for more pics.


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## lawnproslawncar (Dec 9, 2007)

sweet stuff!
keep adding the pics as you finish this project please.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Thanks for the compliments. It's mostly done and most of the trial fitting is also done. The paint is just a matt black rattle can job with some good primer underneath. The only parts cut in a machine shop were the big plates used in building the upper cylinder mount. And that was just done with a good band saw. The big pins were made by my buddy on a lathe. Everything else was cut out by hand with a torch and or alot of grinding. I will try and post the four link bars soon as they are done. I'm trying to get all the wiring figured out now.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

More pictures of the four link bars in place.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Installed a GM connector on my plow controls harness today. I used 16-4 cable from Lowes. It's weatherproof and running two cables next to each other gives you eight wires to work with and makes for a nice neat install. The GM connector (part #15306164) comes with wire pigtails already installed, but I chose to crimp and solder new Packard terminals onto my 16-4 cables. One less connection to corrode and looks cleaner too. When finished the new harness simply plugs into the GM trailer receptical (part #12191503) and makes for a nice weathertight , factory like install.


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## deckboys (Dec 1, 2006)

lookin pretty solid... good work


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

New plow controls mount that I fabricated. It has a mount for my Boss V on the left and the backplow switches in the box on the right. The left toggle switch with the blue extension is for power up and down. The toggle switch on the right is for float position. It's made to allow full use of the cup holders and is removable for the summer. It still needs some sanding and paint, but both plows can easilly be controled at your finger tips.


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## NorthernSvc's (Mar 12, 2006)

thats pretty badazz, looks like it would be a joy to operate!


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## mackman42 (Dec 2, 2008)

*nice*



redhenny16;653765 said:


> More pictures of the four link bars in place.


nice fabrication work. nice paint job also. looks very professional.


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## Humvee27 (Feb 5, 2008)

Very nice...looks like it's coming together very well. Good job with it.


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## Johnnay Boy91 (Aug 21, 2008)

NICE work man you should get some video of it working when your done!!!! you got me thinking lol i want to biuld one now but im thinking about having the whole thing fold up into the bed like a repo pick up truck then theres less of a chance to back into things but you do real nice work


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## MAR4CARS (Oct 6, 2005)

Very nice workmanship now all you have to do is clean that dirty interior


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## Eyesell (Nov 7, 2003)

I got to say you got talent, there are so many of us here on this site that just wish we could weld, paint, etc. like others do. Heck I drool over the work shops some of you guys have.

Great work, I agree to keep the pictures coming.


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## RLTimbs (Jan 30, 2008)

Been watching this thread..

Can't wait for more pics.

Looks GOOD so far bro!


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

I got the hydraulic cylinder mounted to get some hyd. line measurements. So here are some pictures. There is also a shot of my Barns pump.


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## Humvee27 (Feb 5, 2008)

Nice job with it again....nice install on the pump....I like the quick disconnects up there...


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Well it's been snowing here all day and I spent the day out in the garage trying to finish up my backplow. Got the power and ground cables finished and built a mount for the cable connector. I also had to get some new ends put on my hydraulic hoses and finished running them. Finally the hydraulics are alive!!!!


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## Otts (Nov 8, 2008)

Sweet! Finish that thing up and get us some action picks.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

*It's alive!!!!!!!!!*

Well I finally got the blade mounted tonight. I still have a few bugs to work out but I should be able to do some plowing with it tonight and tomorrow. Had to make a quick trip back to Ace Hardware for some more bolts so I took a few pictures with the blade on. Two more shots in my garage.I will post more pictures of it working tomorrow.


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## snowpro2210 (Feb 16, 2008)

Looks Great!! but what do you use a back drag blade for.Wont all the snow be pretty much already be pushed out of the way with the blade on the front of the truck.Im new to all this so.As you can tell i dont plow yet...


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

You don't normally use both plows together, unless you are plowing a long winding drive. I will use both in this case to clen up the inside corners. Residential drives are where they really work good. Back up to the garage door and do three pulls down to the end of the drive, turn around and pile the snow at the driveway entrance. They are also useful for cleaning out loading docks and boxed in parking lots. No more back dragging. It also has down pressure so it cleans up packed drives very well.


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## 85 Toyota 22R (Jan 7, 2004)

looks great, nice fab. skills


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## naturalgreen (Dec 6, 2008)

thats nice 
good work on that.


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## Humvee27 (Feb 5, 2008)

Thats awesome...nice job again.....I really like how you mounted the power connectors. Thank you for taking the time to post pictures on this. :salute:


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## Dodge Plow Pwr (Dec 7, 2007)

Looks great. Now we have to know, what do you have for a total cost of the project? Did you make it cheaper than you could have bought a kit for? I wish I could weld like that because I am truly jealous. I guess IF I had skills I would like to make it myself to then you know thaat it is tuff...
Great job again..


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## jimaug87 (Feb 15, 2007)

that's some impressive work. I like the finish skill you have, and it's a sturdy looking design. I'll be back eagerly waiting for some action pics.


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## ALC-GregH (Nov 26, 2008)

The last pic shows the power connector hanging off. Did something knock it off? Very nice work overall.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Good eye, I posted the pictures out of sequence though. The power connector is mounted as seen in one of the previous pictures. Thanks for all the compliments everyone. I did some plowing with it yesterday but wasn't able to get any action shots. It works very well but the hydraulics are a little slow for my liking. I am researching a better pump for it now. If anyone knows of a good pump set-up with power up and down, plus float for a double acting cylinder please let me know.


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## horsepowerlawns (Nov 12, 2006)

Great work.

Are you going to mount any tail lights to the plow? It looks like the plow will hide your truck tail lights.


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## Lawn Enforcer (Mar 20, 2006)

Way to use your head! Nice work!


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Yes I will be mounting tail lights on the plow and back up lights to the plow mount. I am also thinking about some LED strobes to mount on the plow. Thanks


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Well I have been plowing seems like non stop lately, and my new back blade is working very well. I pulled some 18"-24 " deep snowdrifts out of some driveways with it and it did a very nice job. The only bad part about pulling large drifts out is that you have to back through all of the snow you just pulled out. Sometimes it gets to deep and you have to pile it up with the front plow before you can finish scraping out a drive. The down pressure scapes hard packed snow down to bare pavement. Leaves nice cut edges just like a snow blower would. On a lighter snowfall like 2"-4" I will pull down an average driveway three times and then pile the snow with my front mounted Boss V. Haven't timed it yet but takes about 2-4 minuites depending on traffic.The only problem so far is my pump which was used. It is slow and I think that the motor is getting tired. I am reserching a new pump setup that will have power up and down and float. Float would be the nicest addition, it would speed up the down cycle and allow the plow to follow the ground. As of now I have to manually adjust for ground contour changes. I haven't been able to get any new pictures of it in action yet but I will try to get some posted soon. We are under another winter storm watch so I am sure the there will be photo ops soon.


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## Doakster (Aug 15, 2008)

I'm not sure what you have for a pump set up but as far as looking for something that will serve as a float, you simply need to find a way to dump the pressure on each side of the cylinder. 

This could be done by installing a common hydraulic line between the piston and rod side of the cylinder(at the fittings would be the easiest). On that line you could install a solenoid valve that would then feed back to the return or low pressure side of you're pump. Then when you want to go to float you lower the blade, shut off the pump, and energize the solenoid to bleed the pressure back to the pump and the cylinder/plow would be free to move. Then when you want to go back to blade operation you de-energize the solenoid and use your pump as you normally do. Catch my drift? The key here is to dump both side of you cylinder of all pressure to that the cylinder/plow can move freely. In short that is what's happening on any plow set up. This would probably be cheaper than sourcing a new pump that has these functions.


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## Doakster (Aug 15, 2008)

Actually I went back and looked at the picture of your pump, looks like you only have two solenoids for either side of the cylinder to be pressurizes. I'm thinking you should have another port machined on the "block" on the pump, the same block that the current solenoids are installed on. If that's the case one of them might be a return port back to the reservoir.

And if that's the case all you have to do is install another cartridge solenoid valve in that port and connect it both sides of the cylinders so that is will dump the pressure back to the reservoir.


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## Humvee27 (Feb 5, 2008)

redhenny,
let us know what you chose to go with for the pump....I'm doing the same thing right now...I'm probably gonna go with a pump from Northern Tool for now, building a gas powered pump next summer on mine...


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Doakster, I tried jumpering the down solenoid only leaving the pump motor off and the plow will float down. But the pump reservoir will overlow if I let it drop all the way. Then when I operate the plow normally it acts like it has air in the system. I tried the same thing with the other solenoid with the same results. From what I have found so far it looks like I need a solenoid block that has a spool valve. My current pump is tired anyways so I don't have any real issues with upgrading to a better pump, other than cost. I would like to increase the cylinder lift cycle time as well. I have a 21"-22" cylinder and the cycle time is 9-10 seconds.


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## Doakster (Aug 15, 2008)

redhenny16;687465 said:


> Doakster, I tried jumpering the down solenoid only leaving the pump motor off and the plow will float down. But the pump reservoir will overlow if I let it drop all the way. Then when I operate the plow normally it acts like it has air in the system. I tried the same thing with the other solenoid with the same results. From what I have found so far it looks like I need a solenoid block that has a spool valve. My current pump is tired anyways so I don't have any real issues with upgrading to a better pump, other than cost. I would like to increase the cylinder lift cycle time as well. I have a 21"-22" cylinder and the cycle time is 9-10 seconds.


The "down solenoid" is connected to which side of the cylinder? I think I can explain to you why this is happening.

And only one of the these solenoids is energized to raise or lower correct?


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Yes only one solenoid is energized at a time. I would have to go out in the garage and look which solenoid is the down sol. I have it setup so that it has the most pressure on the up side. If you switch the hydraulic lines it will raise very slowly. I don't know if this is how it is valved or if it is because my pump is tired.


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## Doakster (Aug 15, 2008)

redhenny16;687491 said:


> Yes only one solenoid is energized at a time. I would have to go out in the garage and look which solenoid is the down sol. I have it setup so that it has the most pressure on the up side. If you switch the hydraulic lines it will raise very slowly. I don't know if this is how it is valved or if it is because my pump is tired.


Ok I think I can explain this.

As far as you connecting one side or the other and it's slower/faster, that tells me that the valving or the machining in the block is different and one side is more restrictive than the other. It may not be putting out more pressure per say on one side or the other but it is definitely putting out more flow on one side. Flow is what controls you're speed in a hydraulic set up assuming that pressure remains constant through out the movement of the cylinder in this case. My guess is that this hydraulic block has one side that has bigger machined passages so that will allow more flow, and that this was a pump set up to be on a system that was design for slower flow on the return side, like you are seeing with the way you have it hooked up. Think of it this way, if this pump was for a the lift cylinder on a front plow, the raise side would be connected to the piston side of the cylinder because it needs the most amount of oil to raise the cylinder/plow because of the bigger volume on that side of the cylinder, but it really doesn't care about the rod side of the cylinder because it just releases the pressure and floats down. In you're case you have a double acting cylinder and to raise the plow so you need more flow on the rod side (the side with the smaller volume)

The fact that one solenoid energized at a time is how I would have expected it. This means that these are solenoid operated cartridge type poppet style hydraulic valves(say that 3 times fast). They are very common in any system that is referred to a "push bang" hydraulic system, where there is no proportional control. In this case you just have one side of the cylinder seeing full pressure or the opposite.

The way it works is one solenoid is energized, just consider the piston side of the cylinder for my example (and looking at your hoses in the pick i think it is the forward most one). When this energizes is puts full pressure to the piston side of the cylinder and tries to extend the rod, when the rod tries to extend the rod side of the cylinder now gets pressurizes as well from the forces acting on it from the piston side. That pressure then transfers back to the other solenoid valve (the rear one) and "pops" it open and allows the fluid to return to the tank. When you let off forward solenoid, it gets de-energized, the cylinder stops it's movement and the other solenoid slams shut because no pressure is holding it open anymore. It's the opposite for raising the blade.

When you jumper out a solenoid like you said I think what is happening is you are allowing a flow of oil from only one side of the cylinder to return back to the tank. So the plow then goes down but the other side of the cylinder doesn't get filled with oil because the pump is not running. This lets the air into that side of the cylinder and makes it act like it has air in it, make sense? But you don't get the problem of over flowing when the pump is running because enough oil it returning and being supplied where is needs to be to not create an issue.

As far as the float function I think you're on the right track with a spool valve but again I think it would need to be a return back to the tank to bleed the pressure off both sides of the cylinders.

Now if you want to run the plow faster you simply need a pump with about equal pressure and more flow (GPM), you should be able to find some specs on the pump and then figure out what you need for a new one. Expect twice as fast operation if you double the GPM and keep the pressure the same.

Does any of this make sense to you? It's not by best explanation.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Well I finally was able to get some pictures of my backplow in use. Here are some pictures of it working and of what it can do.


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## Doakster (Aug 15, 2008)

Image stabilizer on the camera?


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Here are some pictures of my whole truck with both plows on. We finally had some warm weather so I washed it and took some pictures. I still have some wiring to redo and some pump issues to figure out. The back plow worked awsome this past winter, it's a huge time saver.


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

Nice fabrication, your whole set-up is nice. Have you used a rear plow in the past? How hard is it to get used to? BTW, almost time to take down the Christmas lights. ( I did mine this past weekend)


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

Yes, I had this same backplow on two other trucks, but with much simpler mounts. They work great on driveways and on inside turns. I also use it when traffic is heavy to clean out business entrances. The hardest part about using it is judging how close you can back up to a garage door.


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## FOX-SNO-REMOVAL (Jan 3, 2009)

Damn tht back plow if flippin sweet!! By the way great fabricaction!


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## SnowPro93 (Oct 25, 2006)

Very nice! I like how high it lifts. Thats why we went with the snowman and not the daniels. When backing up the docks and doors the snowman has down pressure, yours also looks like it does. So when backing up the the door i'd lower it to the height of the snow cover and backup slow.Gave me the best results also made me feel better that i could see where the plow was going to drop. Good Luck with it, it definitely will improve your time.


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## redhenny16 (Feb 13, 2004)

My backplow stays pretty much the same vertically whether its up or down. So I just keep a eye on the the two guide poles to judge distance to garage doors.


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