# How Ballast Works



## Shortstuff

A lot has been posted and said and there have been disagreements with respect to exactly how ballast works in a plow truck. This will be my first year plowing, but after reading so many comments, below is what I believe to be correct.

Someone please comment and tell me if I am right or wrong.

Please excuse my crude artwork.

Thanks!

Steve


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## cretebaby

That is absolutely perfect.:waving: This should be made a sticky.


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## KJ Cramer

Right on! Nice picture too.


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## smoorman

You're exactly right. The way that SnowDogg calculates ballast (and the way our competitors do) uses the following "rules". The math is not overly complicated, but you're dealing with the following.

1. A plow weighing Wplow, at Lplow in front of the front axle.
2. 400lbs of weight in the passenger compartment, Lpa behind the front axle
3. Wf on the front axle (front curb weight)
4. Wr on the rear axle (rear curb weight) at Lr (wheel base) behind the front axle
5. Wb of ballast located Lb behind the front axle (usually wheel base + a set amount

Anyway, it's all just a big seesaw (around the center of gravity of the truck). But it comes down this.

Add ballast weight until the following is true

1. The FAWR is not exceeded
2. The center of gravity of the vehicle is at least 35% behind the front axle (for braking)
3. The RAWR is not exceeded (and of cource the GVWR)

This is why a truck with duallys can carry just about any plow. The front ends aren't usually different (between a 3/4T and 1T truck) it's that fact that you can load the rear full of ballast. This is also why SUV's can sometimes carry plows better than mini trucks (the center of gravity is already close to 50% back).

Technically, you should get your vehicle weighed (front and rear curb weights). Ensuring that you comply with your axle ratings (and braking ability) is fully the responsibility of the end user.

Maybe more info than anyone wanted - but we don't make these numbers up (although it might seem like it sometimes).

Regards,
Scott Moorman
Director of Engineering
SnowDogg/BPC


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## piggle

Great images. 

I would add that leverage is not in your favor here. You have to add a lot more weight up against your tailgate than you will relieve from your front axle. The lever arms are totally out of proportion.

The "lead filled bumper" may be the most effective choice since you may get another foot of lever arm out of it. This may be a little more difficult to accomplish than simply adding weight up against your tailgate.


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## mcwlandscaping

Definitely should be made sticky here and in the commercial section. Ballast is a safety thing, not just for looks of a leveled out truck. It effects and improves braking and steering functions that are already compromised due to weather conditions. People take note and add ballast!!!!


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## cretebaby

smoorman;819652 said:


> You're exactly right. The way that SnowDogg calculates ballast (and the way our competitors do) uses the following "rules". The math is not overly complicated, but you're dealing with the following.
> 
> 1. A plow weighing Wplow, at Lplow in front of the front axle.
> 2. 400lbs of weight in the passenger compartment, Lpa behind the front axle
> 3. Wf on the front axle (front curb weight)
> 4. Wr on the rear axle (rear curb weight) at Lr (wheel base) behind the front axle
> 5. Wb of ballast located Lb behind the front axle (usually wheel base + a set amount
> 
> Anyway, it's all just a big seesaw (around the center of gravity of the truck). But it comes down this.
> 
> Add ballast weight until the following is true
> 
> 1. The FAWR is not exceeded
> 2. The center of gravity of the vehicle is at least 35% behind the front axle (for braking)
> 3. The RAWR is not exceeded (and of cource the GVWR)
> 
> This is why a truck with duallys can carry just about any plow. The front ends aren't usually different (between a 3/4T and 1T truck) it's that fact that you can load the rear full of ballast. This is also why SUV's can sometimes carry plows better than mini trucks (the center of gravity is already close to 50% back).
> 
> Technically, you should get your vehicle weighed (front and rear curb weights). Ensuring that you comply with your axle ratings (and braking ability) is fully the responsibility of the end user.
> 
> Maybe more info than anyone wanted - but we don't make these numbers up (although it might seem like it sometimes).
> 
> Regards,
> Scott Moorman
> Director of Engineering
> SnowDogg/BPC


Lets just not confuse ballast with counterweight.


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## JR Snow Removal

what do you guys use for a ballast im guess salt would be a good one? never done this but going to this year


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## 2COR517

JR Snow Removal;819808 said:


> what do you guys use for a ballast im guess salt would be a good one? never done this but going to this year


Salt, sand, concrete blocks, iron plates. Something dense and easy to put in and take out.

I thought I remembered someone suggesting Dodge Cummings.


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## stroker79

LOL!

Those images are awesome! Was that done with keynote? or omnigraffle? They are simple but look awesome.

As for ballast I just go to home depot with $30 and buy as much tube sand as I can load it in the bed over and aft of the rear axle. Its normally about 1000 pounds which is a lot but it helps the 2wd traction.

Also, Wouldnt putting all the weight aft of the rear axle also make a pendulum of sorts when going around a turn? Basically making it easier to swing the back end arund or even make it unpredictable?


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## smoorman

cretebaby;819800 said:


> Lets just not confuse ballast with counterweight.


The industry term used for the weight in the bed of a truck (as far back as possible) is ballast. There is no meaningful distinction between counterweight and ballast.

Piggle is dead right. Physics wise, the ballast hanging off your rear bumper is ideal. Strokers point is valid though, a little discretion is wise. In the end, you need both of your axles loaded (at least 35% on the front) to ensure normal handling and braking.


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## cretebaby

smoorman;819951 said:


> The industry term used for the weight in the bed of a truck (as far back as possible) is ballast. There is no meaningful distinction between counterweight and ballast.


Sure there is.



smoorman;819951 said:


> In the end, you need both of your axles loaded (at least 35% on the front) to ensure normal handling and braking.


Is it possible to have less than 35% on the front without overloading the back axle?


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## smoorman

cretebaby;819999 said:


> Is it possible to have less than 35% on the front without overloading the back axle?


You're right - I mispoke. You want AT LEAST 35% of the total curb weight on the REAR axle. The "allowable center of gravity" is actually a parallelogram - GM provides this on their upfitters information (its not specific to plows). The 35% is a simplification.

Western/Fisher/Boss/Meyer/Blizzard/SnowDogg/Snoway call it "ballast". Thus, it is ballast.


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## dlstelma

Putting all the weight at the ends of the truck results in alot of pressure in the center of the frame where the bed and cab meet. Coming to an abrupt stop from plowing will add more pressure and cause buckling. I'd spread it out on both sides of the rear axle.


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## 2COR517

smoorman;819951 said:


> The industry term used for the weight in the bed of a truck (as far back as possible) is ballast. There is no meaningful distinction between counterweight and ballast.





cretebaby;819999 said:


> Sure there is.


Going to agree with Cretebaby from a technical perspective. However I (and probably most) would agree that when we say "ballast" we really mean counterweight. Kinda like Band-Aids, Skilsaws, and Sawzalls.

-- From M-W.com --
Main Entry: 1bal·last 
Pronunciation: \ˈba-ləst\
Function: noun 
1 : a heavy substance placed in such a way as to improve stability and control (as of the draft of a ship or the buoyancy of a balloon or submarine)

Counterweight takes you to counterbalance
Pronunciation: \ˈkau̇n-tər-ˌba-lən(t)s, ˌkau̇n-tər-ˈ\
Function: noun 
1 : a weight that balances another


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## ultimate plow

So is this going to be in the book "snowplowing for dummies"?:laughing:


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## 2COR517

ultimate plow;820783 said:


> So is this going to be in the book "snowplowing for dummies"?:laughing:


Nobody would read that book!


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## ultimate plow

2COR517;820787 said:


> Nobody would read that book!


A guy that likes yellow paint might.


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## badabing1512

or a guy with a 6.0L powerstroke :laughing:


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## stroker79

itd be written for plow guys with chevys, LOL


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## basher

smoorman;819652 said:


> You're exactly right. The way that SnowDogg calculates ballast (and the way our competitors do) uses the following "rules". The math is not overly complicated, but you're dealing with the following.
> 
> 1. A plow weighing Wplow, at Lplow in front of the front axle.
> 2. 400lbs of weight in the passenger compartment, Lpa behind the front axle
> 3. Wf on the front axle (front curb weight)
> 4. Wr on the rear axle (rear curb weight) at Lr (wheel base) behind the front axle
> 5. Wb of ballast located Lb behind the front axle (usually wheel base + a set amount
> 
> Anyway, it's all just a big seesaw (around the center of gravity of the truck). But it comes down this.
> 
> Add ballast weight until the following is true
> 
> 1. The FAWR is not exceeded
> 2. The center of gravity of the vehicle is at least *35% behind the front axle *(for braking)
> 3. The RAWR is not exceeded (and of course the GVWR)
> 
> This is why a truck with duallys can carry just about any plow. The front ends aren't usually different (between a 3/4T and 1T truck) it's that fact that you can load the rear full of ballast. This is also why SUV's can sometimes carry plows better than mini trucks (the center of gravity is already close to 50% back).
> 
> Technically, you should get your vehicle weighed (front and rear curb weights). Ensuring that you comply with your axle ratings (and braking ability) is fully the responsibility of the end user.
> 
> Maybe more info than anyone wanted - but we don't make these numbers up (although it might seem like it sometimes).
> 
> Regards,
> Scott Moorman
> Director of Engineering
> SnowDogg/BPC





smoorman;819951 said:


> The industry term used for the weight in the bed of a truck (as far back as possible) is ballast. There is no meaningful distinction between counterweight and ballast.
> 
> Piggle is dead right. Physics wise, the ballast hanging off your rear bumper is ideal. Strokers point is valid though, a little discretion is wise. In the end, you need both of your axles loaded (*at least 35% on the front*) to ensure normal handling and braking.


I'm glad you addressed the issue of weight balance, *too much ballast* could cause other issues including, too high a plow hinge height, deceased braking and increased oversteer. So while adding ballast is critical for all pickup and many other vehicle applications as well, the truck's axle loads *with the plow down * need to be considered.

Not disagreeing with your math, but it is my understanding that the FVMSSA 105 brake cert. requires at least 38% of the weight on the rear axle, actually they state front axle weight not to exceed 62% of the gross vehicle weight rating. I understand this is the requirement for all permanently attached parts (mounts, etc.) and that as the manufacturers specify, ballast must be add to maintain the proper weight balances but I would think it would be a minimum 38% as opposed to the 35% you refer to, with a target of 52/48 with the blade on the ground. Using a rear suspension assistance as well as a front suspension support is recommended for those running more then manufacturers recommended ballast.

Think we can get MJD to rename this thread *Ballast 101*:laughing:


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## Grn Mtn

Shortstuff;819012 said:


> A lot has been posted and said and there have been disagreements with respect to exactly how ballast works in a plow truck. This will be my first year plowing, but after reading so many comments, below is what I believe to be correct.
> 
> Someone please comment and tell me if I am right or wrong.
> 
> Please excuse my crude artwork.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Steve


Great simple diagrams steve, and thanks smoorman for taking the time to provide some industry know how, why the terminology needed to be debated....well thats plowsite for you.

Anyway, Steve now you have a good idea of how much and where, my recommendation is that you build a box to secure your load, preferably tube sand and use ratchet straps. This way they don't come flying through the back window in an accident (I've seen concrete blocks and weights do just that)


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## smoorman

basher;820832 said:


> I'm glad you addressed the issue of weight balance, *too much ballast* could cause other issues including, too high a plow hinge height, deceased braking and increased oversteer. So while adding ballast is critical for all pickup and many other vehicle applications as well, the truck's axle loads *with the plow down * need to be considered.
> 
> Not disagreeing with your math, but it is my understanding that the FVMSSA 105 brake cert. requires at least 38% of the weight on the rear axle, actually they state front axle weight not to exceed 62% of the gross vehicle weight rating. I understand this is the requirement for all permanently attached parts (mounts, etc.) and that as the manufacturers specify, ballast must be add to maintain the proper weight balances but I would think it would be a minimum 38% as opposed to the 35% you refer to, with a target of 52/48 with the blade on the ground. Using a rear suspension assistance as well as a front suspension support is recommended for those running more then manufacturers recommended ballast.
> 
> Think we can get MJD to rename this thread *Ballast 101*:laughing:


Basher - you are right. I came up with 35% when I first responded (lying in bed without my FMVSSA guidelines handy), but the correct number is 38% (that's what we've used in our plow selector). As you mention, the language is a little different. But the point is that if you're driving around with your rear wheels "floating", you won't get very far.

In reality, this thread probably could have stopped with Steve's first post. It demonstrated the principles pretty clearly and unless people are going to start weighing their truck's front and rear curb weight (some installers do), the actual numbers don't mean a lot. I think it's useful for people to understand the assumptions behind manufacturers plow selectors though. The hardest part of building a plow is making it fit on a damned truck. I suspect my competitors would agree.

Maybe I'll go through all of our plow selector literature and change the term to "counterweight". Nahhh... 
All squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares...
All weight added to a truck is ballast, but not all ballast is counterweight...

Regards,
Scott


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## 2COR517

smoorman;820873 said:


> All squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares...
> All weight added to a truck is ballast, but not all ballast is counterweight...


That's what I was trying to say! Thanks.


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## badabing1512

stroker79;820790 said:


> itd be written for plow guys with chevys, LOL


LOL Funny guy


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## PhantomRacer

For ballast, I just use the summer tire/wheels I take off when I put my snows on. Works well, easy to move if I need the space, and I have 4 extra spare tires!

Then again, I plow with my 2wd chevy and a snowbear, so take it for what it is worth. Might not be enough ballast for a real truck with a real plow. But so far 10/11 seasons and counting, been working well and haven't got stuck once!


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## RolyF

ultimate plow;820783 said:


> So is this going to be in the book "snowplowing for dummies"?:laughing:


LOL. I'm checking Barnes and Noble for it tonight! I'm going to keep a few copies in my truck and hand them out to the common sense deprived who I spot every snow season. We've all seen 'em.


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## 2COR517

RolyF;823575 said:


> LOL. I'm checking Barnes and Noble for it tonight! I'm going to keep a few copies in my truck and hand them out to the common sense deprived who I spot every snow season. We've all seen 'em.


Do you mean the guys plowing with half tons, no ballast, wide tires, with no tread on them, and can't understand that you don't have to floor it to go forward?


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## basher

I sure you were not aware, as the good Dr. has been on sabbatical working with the Nobel prize committee on finding ways to financially reward those creating the most use for Dr' Nobel's invention. But *Dr. Semen Fraud *(Dr. of Theology; Church of the Holy Insurrection, PhD, NAPA, MADD, STD, PITA, Executive Director; Institute for the Study of Snowplow Pornocologily) has been working a just such a volume and he has approved me providing you with a brief sample. This is an unedited work.

*Chapter One; the Physiology of Snowplowing or* _getting your head in the right place includes side bar interviews with Peter Coors and Jaclyn Daniels_

*Chapter Two; You, The Truck and the Universe or*_ sure you can plow with a half ton_

*Chapter Three; You, The Plow and the Universe or *_It doesn't matter what they say my buddies' friend's sister's husband's son from his first marriage had a teacher who knew a guy that saw a picture and he said it will work._

*Chapter Four; Attracting Business *or _Promises you won't keep_

*Chapter Five; Pricing Structures *or _Lowballing your way to fun and profit_


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## KJ Cramer

Good one Basher:laughing:


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## RolyF

basher;824237 said:


> I sure you were not aware, as the good Dr. has been on sabbatical working with the Nobel prize committee on finding ways to financially reward those creating the most use for Dr' Nobel's invention. But *Dr. Semen Fraud *(Dr. of Theology; Church of the Holy Insurrection,* PhD, NAPA, MADD, STD, PITA*, Executive Director; Institute for the Study of Snowplow Pornocologily) has been working a just such a volume and he has approved me providing you with a brief sample. This is an unedited work.
> 
> *Chapter One; the Physiology of Snowplowing or* _getting your head in the right place includes side bar interviews with Peter Coors and Jaclyn Daniels_
> 
> *Chapter Two; You, The Truck and the Universe or*_ sure you can plow with a half ton_
> 
> *Chapter Three; You, The Plow and the Universe or *_It doesn't matter what they say my buddies' friend's sister's husband's son from his first marriage had a teacher who knew a guy that saw a picture and he said it will work._
> 
> *Chapter Four; Attracting Business *or _Promises you won't keep_
> 
> *Chapter Five; Pricing Structures *or _Lowballing your way to fun and profit_


Very funny post basher. 
May I suggest some additional chapters:

*Chapter Six; Scheduled maintenance.* Scheduling it when it breaks.

*Chapter Seven; Collection Strategies.* Plow softly but carry a big stick.

*Chapter Eight; Energy Drinks.* Better than an intravenous caffeine drip?

*Chapter Nine; Plow Selection.* Will a 10' plow fit on your Tacoma?

*Chapter Ten; The Best Truck to Push With, or what did your father own?*


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## dlstelma

I own a 98 K2500 (GVWR 8500lbs) that I weighed years ago at a weigh station along the highway. My front axle came in at 3550 lbs and the rear was 2550 lbs. I thought I would calculate the weight on my front axle after adding the 680 lb plow. Here's my calcs:

Before plow:
front axle = 3550
rear axle = 2550

After plow (assuming the plow/ load is located 4 ft in front of the front axle, my wheelbase is 12 ft):
front axle = 4457 lbs
rear axle = 2323 lbs

This is above the load rating of the front axle! I know dealers have sold "work" trucks with the same/ similar plows. Have the rating/ load capacity of trucks changed that much? I know towing ratings have always increased, but payload? What am I missing? 

In my previous reply, I mentioned loading the bed/ ballast before and after the rear axle. I retract this statement if you are overloading the rating of the front axle. Obviously, anything in front of the rear axle is going to add further weight to the front axle. 

I do have the standard equipment "heavy springs" option with my truck, but isn't this for sagging purposes or does it add load capacity? Would this be added to the door sticker that shows the load capacities?


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## Tahoe99

I used 2 old milk plastic crates. Put a heavy duty garbage bags inside to close the gaps in the bottom and sides and pour concrete up to below the "handle" level.

Heavy like hell, compact, and with the "factory" handles, you can (probably) get it in and out.

DO NOT FORGET TO SECURE IT TO THE BED WITH CHAINS OR TOW STRAPS or bad things may happen


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## KJ Cramer

Tahoe99;833094 said:


> I used 2 old milk plastic crates. Put a heavy duty garbage bags inside to close the gaps in the bottom and sides and pour concrete up to below the "handle" level.
> 
> Heavy like hell, compact, and with the "factory" handles, you can (probably) get it in and out.
> 
> DO NOT FORGET TO SECURE IT TO THE BED WITH CHAINS OR TOW STRAPS or bad things may happen


Don't ever forget to secure your ballast, or it will end up in your cab quickly; or at the very least, bashing in the front of your box.


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## LEVE

I plow with a '93 Ranger Extended Cab and a snow sport plow. With the plow in the travel position the front of the Ranger dips 2". I simply loaded 12 cinder blocks (42lbs each) in the bed, behind the rear wheels. Then I added a piece of 1/2' plywood and used 2X4's to make a frame to keep everything in place. It's easily dismantled for removal and storage. This ballast brings the Ranger to level when the plow is in transport while adding weight to the rear of the Ranger when plowing.


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## 02DURAMAX

Good pics!!


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## JDiepstra

2COR517;819813 said:


> Salt, sand, concrete blocks, iron plates. Something dense and easy to put in and take out.
> 
> I thought I remembered someone suggesting Dodge Cummings.


Blasphemy! Although, the medium duty Cummins 5.6 and 6.7 engines do outweight the light duty Duramax and Powerstroke engines by a few hundred pounds, because they are built with bigger, heavier, and longer lasting parts.


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