# Aux. Backup lights



## jonw440 (Dec 26, 2002)

I know this has been asked before, but I'm looking for more opinions. I want to add more light when I backing up. My 01 Ram has the 7 pin trailer wiring so adding lights to the reverse circuit is easy. Do I want "Flood", "Driving" or "fog" lights? I heard and read about the tractor lights but I don't like the round look. I am leaning toward rectangle lights. KC makes the "517" reverse light kit but I think I want something that shoots further out. But also to the side. Any more ideas? Would cheap driving lights from Walmart do the job? Or do I have to get $$$$$ Piaa or Hella or KC?


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## GLS (Nov 22, 2001)

I wouldn't use driving lights. They are more like a spot light. It goes far, but is not spread out. I would go with a flood, fog, or trapezoid pattern. They will give you a more broad area of lighting. I don't think they really need to go far.

I just used the cheapy tractor lights. Cheap and easy to replace. They also have rectangular ones.

I wouldn't want to pay too much for a pair, especially if they are mounted below the bumper. They can break off easily.


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## kawdude (Nov 19, 2002)

i use cheapie driving lights on my truck but a word of caution, if ya put them under the bumper you will eventually back into a snowbank and break em off.

Mount them in your stakepocket in one of those stake pocket tie downs then ya can rip it off when ya want it gone, no holes.

Also if you use driving lights they are quite bright so ya might want to shut them off when backing into a street or on a street.

I use KC daylighters when i'm plowing forward and driving lights when backing, constantly switching between.


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## GLS (Nov 22, 2001)

Forgot to attatch the pic.

I wanted to mount it higher, but the dumper kinda gets in the way. I'm sure they will break off in no time, but i've got a spare. Also, the housing is made of rubber, so it's somewhat flexible.

One more thing, I decided to put them on a switch instead of tapping into the reverse wire. This way, if I am unloading something, I can turn them on when not in reverse.


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## cntryboymc (Jun 10, 2003)

nice truck as i said before ryan!i was considering a light bar rack for my truck mounted behind the cab.this would include my flashing light and i was thinking about putting flood lights facing toward the rear also on it.has anyone seen a set up like this available commercially?i would prefer an aluminum one.


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## JohnnyU (Nov 21, 2002)

I have a similar setup Cntry- But mine is made of steel. I also used the rubber tractor ligths.


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## jbutch83 (Sep 30, 2002)

I have the White Knight back up lights, that mount on your rear hitch. I know that they are not cheap, but they look great, and work great at night. I wired mine to a switch in the cab, so I can turn them on and off whenever I want to. I have not had a problem with breakage on them, finally cracked a lense after a year hooking up to my trailer.

John


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## PreFabber (Nov 17, 2002)

If you do decide to tap into your reverse lights. If you go with halogen lights, they will blow your fuse. This can be remedied by putting a bigger fuse in, but the wiring for those lights are not designed for that kind of load. Personally i would run a whole new line with a separate switch and fuse. That's what i did with my truck that is very similar to yours. Sorry, i don't have any pics. If you do go with this solution, make sure you use a heavy enough gauge wire to sustain the load of halogens. I used halogens, and love them for the mini salt spreader on the back too.


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## EZSnow (Aug 13, 2003)

here's my idea...
I have some cheapo halogen fogs. I'll mount them up in front of the rear bumper behind the quarters. I plan on mounting them up closer to the floor of the bed and pointing them more down than back. Even on black pavement the indirect light is enough for me to see behind me, in the sideviews, through my very dark tint. (in testing) Power will be through a relay. A three-position switch will 1) full-time on, 2) off, 3) reverse-light trigger.

I'll post pics when I have the time to get it done.


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## wxmn6 (May 23, 2001)

> _Originally posted by 0ryan0 _
> *One more thing, I decided to put them on a switch instead of tapping into the reverse wire. This way, if I am unloading something, I can turn them on when not in reverse. *


You actually could have them work in both functions. All you need is a single pole, double throw ON/OFF/ON toggle switch and another length of wire. The SPDT switch should have 3 terminals, and usually the center terminal is the "common." Use that terminal for your backup lights output. For the 2nd terminal, connect it to the battery (or aftermarket fuse panel if any), just be sure it is fused. For the 3rd terminal, tap it into reverse wire.

However, a good common sense would be to add a relay and use the reverse wire as "trigger" to activate the relay. You can tap the main power source for relay to the wire that is connected to the second terminal. Since it is alreay close there and fused, there is no need to run another wire to the battery.

With the SPDT ON/OFF/ON switch, you can flip it to one position so when you shift to reverse, the light will come on. Flip it to another position and you have constant power to lights.


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## Joe92GT (Nov 18, 2002)

I want as much light as possible, I have two of the tractor lights, and am also looking into getting a light rack, with 2 kc s pointed backwards and down. I leave the pivot slightly loose on the tractor lights, so when I hit a bank, they just rotate up.. every time I stop to clean off the winsheild and tool box, I double check the lights, and straiten if necessary.


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## Adams plowing (Oct 8, 2003)

Get the cheap ones this way when they break you and eventually they will if mounted around the bumper your not out much money and cheap to replace.


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## Got Snow (Jan 21, 2003)

HI
i have a set of cheapy fog lights ($25) that i have mounted on my trailer hitch frame. the lights sit well behind and above the rear bumper. you cant see them from the rear, so they wont get smashed when you baak into something.

they are pointed down and outward. they are wired directly into the factory reverse wire. i believe they are 55w halagen lamps. i've had no trouble with fuses.

cheap quick easy install. the best improvement i've made to my truck. while they dont illuminate a football field behind you, they do however, light up quite brightly the area behind your rear tire.when your backing up, this is the exact spot you look at with your mirror.

have fun


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## Nova (Jan 29, 2002)

My setup.

I got a good deal on the Backrack because the factory is about 30 mins. from me. So I went up there and got a "returns" unit. It was still in the original packaging.

The Utility lights are from Canadian Tire and cost about $20 each.

Last year I had the lights mounted to the hitch, under the bumper. So I don't know if having them higher up like this will be more effective, well shall see.


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## Nova (Jan 29, 2002)

Forgot the mention...

I wired them to a SPDT switch, 30AMP relay, powered off the battery and the reverse lead-in comes from under the dash.

This way I can have them come on in reverse only or have them on when the key in turned on because it's also wired to the fuse panel.


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

Sort of lengthy but here goes:

The problem with mounting aux. lights on a headache bar is they illuminate an area high up rather than low which helps to prevent glare and illuminating fog and snowy nights. You want the beam(s) to cast light with little affect from the peripheral offcast of the lamp... keep 'em low not high. It's also safer to other motorists, keeping the beam path lower and not up high where it can blind or confuse them.

Consider this:
Your '01 Ram's 7-pin Bargman connector can be easily disassembled to give a clean factory look to any wiring added to it rather than splicing into the harness at a given point. Better for resale too since it won't looked "hacked". Avoid those awful Scoth-lok splicers since they will ruin things over time. Here is a link to the pin-outs of that 7-pin connector: CLICK HERE

Remove the connector assembly from the steel mount and notice how the rear of it can be removed via clips. It may look a bit weird at first but look carefully and you'll see how it comes apart. This will then expose the wire connections themselves. You can strip back no more than ¼" of insulation and solder your new wiring to the appropriate wire. Should be no more then three connections to be made- one for ground, one for 12vB+ and one for reverse light's relay trigger. Pre-tin the new wiring ends and then solder them to the Bargman connector or find someone that can effectively solder... it's worth it for reliability and integrity of the whole thing! Tape each connection point. Run the three wires through the rubber boot. Reassemble the connector and apply good electrical tape (Scotch 33 or 88 or similar that holds up to temps and moisture forever) along the harness to restore factory looks and maintain reliability. Remount the connector. If you wire a SPST toggle switch across the relay's contacts, you can then bypass the reverse circuit and use the lamp(s) as a work light operated manually. Just remember to turn off the switch or the light remains on all the time! This is handy for not having to place the truck in reverse w/ parking brake on!

One other thing to consider is lamp quality as well. Better to have one good quality lamp with a properly designed lens and quality reflector than to have two crummy smaller lamps that still don't output the light as one good one would. Mounting to the hitch's frame is another good spot... tucked behind the bumper offers some protection rather than directly to the bumper itself. I removed the mounting bracket on mine, attached a stainless hose clamp and then wrapped it around the hitch frame.... super tight and no rusty metal to form. Also apply some silicone sealant to the point where wires enter the lamp housing. You can have a sealed lens assembly but salt and water will enter from the backside, ruining things. I used one rectangular lamp that I modded to run a 100w halogen module, then installed heavy guage wiring, and also teflon insulation near the bulb itself. Now I have an aux reverse light that is just short of being a supernova!


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## Got Snow (Jan 21, 2003)

Roger Dodger,
do you know if the wiring be the same for ford trucks?
thanks

ps- excellent point about keeping the lights low. i dont have any problems with illuminating fog and snowy nights!


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## long0 (Jul 11, 2002)

I mounted one aux light on the stake pocket. It keeps the light up and out of the way when backing up into banks. As mentioned above, I also wired my utilizing a relay to allow three position switching - On - Off - On in Reverse.


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## CPSS (Mar 15, 2002)

I agree with Roger. We have halogen rear work lights in our Whelen light bar, and the light is too high. It glares off the bed of the truck, tool boxes, and snow in bed. Lower is better!


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## Snoworks (Jan 22, 2002)

I have seven trucks and all have back up lights. After using all types of back up lights, cheap and ultra expensive. I would buy the light that give the best results regardless of price. You are purchasing this product to give better, clearer, vision in snowy nite time driving conditions, why settle for less than adaquate.

I bought a set of piaa driving lamps 5 years ago and put them on my Jeep. These lights give of a slight amber hue, but man what a field of vision they provide! They cost me $300.00 bucks, well worth it im my opinion. No other light I have purchased since, has performed even close to the piaa's. 

So how many lights are you going to go through to find the ones you can live with, might be the question? I bought four sets of lights for my Sierra before I settled on good set of Hella spots. Wish I would of spent the extra money up front the first time around.

Chuck B.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Under the bumper is the best place for long range rear visibility,but doesn't do a lot directly behind the truck.Tailgate height works well,aimed downward,to light up directly behind the truck.

The round rubber tractor lamps are OK for a flood lamp,but still don't have a wide enough pattern.The rectangular trapezoidal pattern tractor lamps are the way to go for a short wide beam right behind the truck.


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## JohnnyU (Nov 21, 2002)

I had some lights mounted higher above my truck when I had a roll bar on it. They were a little too high, but still illuminated the rear very well.
I moved them about 12" lower when I installed them on my headache rack, they seem to work better now. Yes, they do light up the bed a little, but that is actually very convenient for when loading the spreader, I did not intend them for this use, but it helps, without producing much glare in the bed at all. 
Of all the setups, I like my current one the best, I knocked three of four lamps off when I had them mounted under the bumper. So I moved them up, and I'm happy with that setup.


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## XPECTATIONS (Oct 15, 2003)

*reverse and on switch*

One gentleman said you could not have a switch in the cab and have them come on when you put it in reverse. unless you had a DPDT switch. Thats is one option, you could also use a rely with a diode to prevent current bleed back through the reverse circuit.

This way you could leave the lights on( SPST switch on) for plowing and no burn out anything when you put it in reverse. Also when you have the switch in the off position your reverse lights work factory.

Parts can be bought at radio shack store. In stock. Wish I had a digram to share but I do not! My Buddie an electrician helped my wire my trucks and equipment.


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

The diode trick is a good, slick fix but, the person needs to know how much forward current will be directed through it, as well as knowing it's reverse spec. so as not to blow the diode, along with identifying it's polarity for proper connection into the circuit. Actually, even a diode out of an old alternator is plenty heavy and those are lying around in junkyards by the millions. Radio Shack is going to be about as helpful as asking your grandmother to explain String Theory and how it applies to Relativity & Quantum Mechanics!! 

Another slick move is to use a solid state relay- no moving parts or contacts to oxidize. Hermettically sealed and they consume even less current to trigger. Works well in gaseous/volatile environments too (like near a battery!). There's no contact bounce as well. Can be easily found on discarded production machinery. Just make sure that 12 volts will indeed trigger the relay. Will likely outlast the vehicle it's used on!

Got Snow- to answer your question about 7-pin wiring on a Ford, yes the Bargman type trailer connector pin-outs are all the same from any brand of vehicle. It's a standard set forth by the trailering industry since the motor vehicle manufacturers don't know what brand trailer the owner will be towing. In other words, my Dodge, or someone elses Chevy, or another's Ford, or a Hummer is capable of operating the electrical on a trailer that's wired to accept a 7-pin be it a camper, boat, car, or equipment hauler. The trailer doesn't know or care what vehicle it's wired to just as long as it's 7-pin configuration matches the tow vehicle's configuration. Ford may have a different color wire in their harness going to the 7-pin but the actual function at each pin is the same to the other auto maker's. As of late, some mfgrs. have been adopting a standard set of wiring colors to indicate certain functions. That's a good trend but not everyone adheres to it - yet.


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## calhoun (Oct 18, 2003)

Not that you need any more replies but here goes.
I have top side mount tool boxs so I just got a cheap set of lights (under $30.00) from wall mart and mounted them to the rear of the tool boxs. They came with a switch which I installed in an unused knock out on the dash. The switch is lighted when lights are on. I would not want them on the back up since I don't need them every time I back up and I also want them on sometimes to light a work area. I don't need much distance light so they are pointed to about 30' behind the truck. Tried low mounts but keep knocking them off. I am going to try to mount my trailer plug up in the bumper since this seams to get knocked off every year also. I plow some tight turn arounds and push a fair amount of snow with the rear bumper.


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

Aux backup lights are easy to wire so they can be switched either constant on or on in reverse only. Single ploe, double throw switch is all you need. Wiring the switch to a relay adds a little more complexity but keeps the factory backup light switch from having to handle amperage loads it was not designed for.

Chuck, at one point you had reduced a file of the schematic for that setup for me. I think it's on a CD and right now my CD drive is on the fritz. Is there any chance you might have a copy of that on your machine somewhere?


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## wxmn6 (May 23, 2001)

Here is the wiring diagram that I just drew. This is a circuit to have backup lights to run on constant in one position, and to have backup lights to turn on in another position only when the truck is shifted into reverse.


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## jonw440 (Dec 26, 2002)

> _Originally posted by wxmn6 _
> *Here is the wiring diagram that I just drew. This is a circuit to have backup lights to run on constant in one position, and to have backup lights to turn on in another position only when the truck is shifted into reverse. *


That is just Perfect! Even I can follow those directions!
Thanks to all. I will post a pic when I get them installed.


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## EZSnow (Aug 13, 2003)

here's the wiring diagram I just drew... this way all high-current draw is through the relay, not the switch. Also, there is no need for a diode- the current can't back up either circuit. It also allows you to completely disable the relay by placing the switch in the off position


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## EZSnow (Aug 13, 2003)

Had to re-size...


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

That schematic can't work! There's no B+ feeding the aux lights. You have them connecting to ground only not the 12v. You only have the relay operating off 12v, unless you drew it wrong? wxmn6's diagram is correct and both diagrams should have the relay terminals labeled since improper wiring of that can cause a real mess!


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

EZSnow's diagram will work.It is better to have any switches on the primary side of the relay,so it's all low current draw,and you can use much smaller wiring.

If your going to use switches and relays,do the switching on the ground side.If all your stuff is on the ground side,and you have a short,then the worst that can happen is the lights will turn on,instead of a blown fuse or melted wires.Make it easier when testing to,so you don't run the risk of directly grounding a hot lead.


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## EZSnow (Aug 13, 2003)

Alright, alright, the ground on the aux lights was assumed, and the relay, its terminals and switch weren't labeled, but the flow works.

Chris, I understand ground-side switching's benefits... I had to learn it to get my KC's to trigger on my silverado (what a pain!) but I can't figure it out in this situation. Is there a way to wire this, switching ground and using the same equipment?

BTW- MICROSOFT PAINT SUCKS!!


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

It's really only neccesary on the secondary side of the relay.Running fused power directly to the lights,and using the relay on the ground side.The primary side of the relay can stay the same,otherwise it gets complicated.


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*Roger*

Whats up with the ISP , address and other info visible in your post ???


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

> _Originally posted by Roger Dodger _
> *That schematic can't work! There's no B+ feeding the aux lights. You have them connecting to ground only not the 12v. You only have the relay operating off 12v, unless you drew it wrong? wxmn6's diagram is correct and both diagrams should have the relay terminals labeled since improper wiring of that can cause a real mess! *


If that schematic is wrong I've got four trucks that don't realize it yet. That's how I wired mine. Wiring them that way means I can get away with running 20 ga wire between switch and relay. Makes it a lot handier in the close quarters under the dash. And no diode needed to handle any appreciable current. Only thing that might improve it is to run a relay with a built in diode to dump the eddy current (I think that's the term) that is generated when the magnetic field in the realy coil collapses as it switches off.


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## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

Alan,
Actually Chuck had just recently brought your diagram back up.

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6355

http://www.plowsite.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=50727


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## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

The file was 660KBs that Chuck put in that other thread.?!


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

*Re: Roger*



> _Originally posted by BWhite _
> *Whats up with the ISP , address and other info visible in your post ??? *


Just a harmless little tag that bounces your ISP, Address, OS and Browser back to you. I nor does anyone else see or know the info. as only you the individual viewer does. It's harmless but now I see my whole sig has been removed ... perhaps by a mod/admin? If it was in violation of something I'm unaware of, then fine but they could have simply removed that link and left the rest alone or PM'd me regarding it. If the sig has disappeared for reasons other than human intervention... oh well!


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

I nor anyone else that has been on has said that they removed it. It was discissed previously when another member did the same. Now that it occurred again it was removed. It is mentioned in the moderator area and you may get some better explanation soon. 

Please don't take it personally.


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*Oh*

I didnt know what was going on . I thought I was being hacked or something ? Made sure my firewall was on full strength and antivirus was updated


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## 91sonomaplow (Oct 6, 2003)

> _Originally posted by jonw440 _
> *I know this has been asked before, but I'm looking for more opinions. I want to add more light when I backing up. My 01 Ram has the 7 pin trailer wiring so adding lights to the reverse circuit is easy. Do I want "Flood", "Driving" or "fog" lights? I heard and read about the tractor lights but I don't like the round look. I am leaning toward rectangle lights. KC makes the "517" reverse light kit but I think I want something that shoots further out. But also to the side. Any more ideas? Would cheap driving lights from Walmart do the job? Or do I have to get $$$$$ Piaa or Hella or KC? *


I dont know if anyone else has an old set of plow lights laying around but i drilled my rear bumper and mounted my old plow lights under the rear, makes as much light from behind as it does from the front  also works good to ward off those pesky tailgaters with the flick of a switch  (kidding... sort of!)


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

> _Originally posted by CT18fireman _
> *I nor anyone else that has been on has said that they removed it. It was discissed previously when another member did the same. Now that it occurred again it was removed. It is mentioned in the moderator area and you may get some better explanation soon.
> 
> Please don't take it personally. *


No problem - I understand. I'll just re-enter the standard truck & plow info. for a sig.

*BWhite*, I apologize if your blood pressure got elevated. At first to the unknowing, it could give the viewer a feeling of being hacked but, I believe it operates on a cookie set by your PC. I never tried it but, if I was to disable cookies it just might not work. I believe that when your page loads, it also accepts a cookie from that specific webpage. You should be able to force your firewall to block a specific address and that would've eliminated it. However being in a sig, only the mods/admin have access to it. I guess that little tag is like the panic that set in when the martians first landed on earth in _War of the Worlds_! 
If you really want something to panic over, there's a neat little command prompt that will display all folders on your HD when you click on a thread. Talk about panic!! It too is harmless and is nothing more than a command that's performed while a page loads into your browser. Only you see it. Basically it is a mirror of Window's Explorer but in HTML so it gets viewed through a browser. Tricky eh? I certainly won't do that here after this latest bout!! The mods would be inundated with reports and complaints and I'd prolly find my plow mounted in reverse, the aux. reverse lights mounted on the dash facing me, and the joystick controller would likely operate the radio stations!


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

*Re: Re: Aux. Backup lights*



> _Originally posted by 91sonomaplow _
> *I dont know if anyone else has an old set of plow lights laying around but i drilled my rear bumper and mounted my old plow lights under the rear, makes as much light from behind as it does from the front  also works good to ward off those pesky tailgaters with the flick of a switch  (kidding... sort of!) *


But now we don't know if you are coming or going!! 
Yeah know what ya mean about flicking a switch to tailgators. I thought it would be neat to have a small, switchable lit sign that states- "BACK OFF!" Or how about something that releases a cloud of theatrical fog or smoke. That'd do nicely!


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Alan _
> *If that schematic is wrong I've got four trucks that don't realize it yet. That's how I wired mine. Wiring them that way means I can get away with running 20 ga wire between switch and relay. Makes it a lot handier in the close quarters under the dash. And no diode needed to handle any appreciable current. Only thing that might improve it is to run a relay with a built in diode to dump the eddy current (I think that's the term) that is generated when the magnetic field in the realy coil collapses as it switches off. *


ALAN - what caused me to think it was wrong was "assuming" the AUX lights were attached to a relay contact that was grounded while the other wire of the AUX light went to ground... see? no 12vB+. That's why I mentioned about the labeling of the relay's terminals showing the two coil terminals and the NO - C- NC contacts.
BTW, eddy currents in a small relay coil?? I think it would be a very insignificant amount. Diodes were bridged across relay or solenoid coils that consumed high current levels such as in pinball machines. It kept contact bounce to a minimum. They don't worry about that for the snowplow's electrical since the control wires don't carry 20 amps and beyond. It might be a potential issue if we were dealing with digital circuits or if it made it's way back to a PCM or similar. I tend to think we're all safe from those fast moving eddy currents for now. No reason to anchor down our homes, tool sheds, and vehicles! LOL


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

Like I said, I'm not real sure on the terminology. What I have run into was on a fairly large, continuous duty solenoid that I use to run switchable power back to my trailer plug. It was connected to an ignition hot lead so the trailer lead would only be live when the key was on. Every time the key was switched off there would be a loud POP from the stereo speakers. I told a buddy of mine, who is really into electronics, about it and he explained it as a reverse current spike being generated when the solenoid coil de-energized. It's common enough that he had diodes all made up with terminals to go from coil trigger terminal to ground. That cured the speaker popping by giving the stray voltage a path to ground. Since then I have seen headlight relays, the little ice cube sized ones, with the diode built in. My friend claims that it doesn't take a lot of reverse current spike to cause havoc in some of the high tech stuff on vehicles now.


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## tim975 (Oct 4, 2002)

*backup lights*

hello jonw440, I have the White Night setup on my truck. I absolutely love it. It has two 55 watt lamps, and produces 130,000 candlepower. Comes in either temporary mount or permanent mount. There's a toggle switch on the back of the unit, either for backup lights when in reverse, center off, or turn it on for like hooking up trailers. The only thing I don't like is the location of the toggle switch, right on the back of the unit, where it catches all the road salt and other crud. I bought mine from Summit Racing Equipment. Depending on your vehicle, you may have to get the relocation plate for the factory hitch wiring plug.

www.whitenight.com/whitenight/mainFrameset-1.htm

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...eyword&searchtype=both&part=cruiser&x=10&y=12


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## Big Nate's Plowing (Nov 26, 2000)

anybody using white led lights for backup lights?


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## tim975 (Oct 4, 2002)

*white night light*

I forgot to mention that the White Night light is made by Cruiser Stainless Accessories. If you click on the Summit Racing address that I provided in my last post, scroll down and click on page 3, look for Cruiser Stainless Accessories. It has the part numbers and prices. I apologize for that.


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## cntryboymc (Jun 10, 2003)

snowy bowtie-how is that rack mounted on your truck?have any more pics of it?


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## JohnnyU (Nov 21, 2002)

Cntry-
I beefed it up with two pieces of 1"x1", stitch welded (I had the 1"x1", as opposed to buying some 2"x1"), two gusset plates, going up to the rack, then running under the toolbox and bolted three times on each side.

I'll take some more pictures for you.


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

*Re: Re: Re: Aux. Backup lights*



> _Originally posted by Roger Dodger _
> *Or how about something that releases a cloud of theatrical fog or smoke. That'd do nicely! *


Johnny D just has to hit the throttle and he can blast them with the real stuff


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## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

You guys watched too much Batman! :bluebounc


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## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Big Nate's Plowing _
> *anybody using white led lights for backup lights? *


Most of the LED lighting is expensive and not really good for casting light long distances. LED technology has made leaps & bounds in the past few years and someday it's conceivable that many filament lamps may go the pathway tube tv sets did.


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

check out jc whitney
they have several nice setups











cardoctor


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*cant remember*

Someone had a pic of a real slick light setup mounted to a Snowman back plow . Who was that ?


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

If that Snowman light setup was tails and a strobe it was mine. Can't find the picture now, it's on a CD and my burner done burned its' last, gotta get a new one. I'll be getting the Snowman out of the barn this weekend and will get a new shot of it.


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*Alan*

Thanks . I would like to see it again . I am thinking about doing something similar
Bill


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## CPSS (Mar 15, 2002)

I some real small (Cyberwhite) lights at WalMart for $39 a pair, came with a wireless remote control. I replaced the 55W halogen lamps that they came with, with 100W lamps, ( also from WalMart). Mounted them to a SS bolt that I welded to the bottom of the trailer hitch. They are pretty low profile, but if I knock them off plowing, I'm not out much money.


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## CPSS (Mar 15, 2002)

Here's a picture of the WalMart lights


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## CPSS (Mar 15, 2002)

Another shot


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## CPSS (Mar 15, 2002)

Photo didn't attach.....


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

look on ebay some one is selling aux. lights that go into the stake pocket 









john


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## EIB (Oct 30, 2002)

I was at Auto Zone today. They are selling aux. lights that mount to the hitch with tie straps. They are 55 watt lights, for only 25.00


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## Mac (Jan 24, 2001)

I tryed mounting backup lights on my trailer hitch. They did not last long, ether they would get covered in snow, or get hit by something. I now mount mine to my backrack 3 year and still working.


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## EIB (Oct 30, 2002)

If I mounted the lights to the backrack, the spreader would get in the way. I was thinking of mounting two lights low and two high. Has anybody mounted them in the stake pockets, and what did you use?


Everett


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## Mac (Jan 24, 2001)

Do you have the spreader in 24/7?
We also have backup lights mounted on the spreader


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## EIB (Oct 30, 2002)

The spreader is in any time the plow is on. 

Mac, what type of spreader do you have, and where are the lights mounted on it?

Everett


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## Mac (Jan 24, 2001)

Everett

Arctic 

They are mounted on the back of the spreader's motor cover. Two John Deere Tractor light just like the ones on my Backrack. The spreader does not stay on the truck when we are plowing.


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## jonw440 (Dec 26, 2002)

Check this out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2441791658&category=6763

The guy put a 7 pin trailer plug on the end of a light. Just lug it in when you need it then unplug and stow away when you dont.


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## tacraven (Oct 20, 2003)

I just saw a back-up light package at Advanced Auto. Its made to mount to the trailer hitch, allowing access to the receiver. I think it is new to the store. It was around $30. It comes with 2 lights, wiring and a few mounting options. I think I might put it on my truck. There seemed to be a good seal between the lense and the housing of the light to keep water out. Take a look.


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## hoagie (Dec 5, 2002)

Here's a pic of the Autozone $24.95 lights... got em on 2 trucks, tapped trailer reverse wire, they work good.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

Sorry no pics, still working on the digital camera I need to buy. Here's my to cents. 

I have wired 10 or 12 different trucks for my self and friend's. Each time I do a new one I look at how I can make it better, so I don't have problems.

I use the round rubber tractor lights, mounted under the bumper and wide. You can still see with the salt spreader or rear plow- very similar to ORyanO set up.

When you install them, take off the short positive lead and the ground as well. Install longer wires so no connections are out side of the casing. Don't ground using the mount, it doesn't work for long. Run the ground to battery. Put grease on the back side of the light before you reinstall it. Paint the bare metal with clear coat so it stays looking nice.

Don't use the truck wiring to power the light. It is ok to use as a trigger for a relay. The light will be brighter if you steal power directly from the battery. Most factory wiring is only as big as they need, so the light will dim as a result.

I use plastic flexible conduit to run the wires to the front of the truck. Tie it a log the frame, and then feed as many wires to the front as needed (you can feed 10 wires-gauge) No connections are made out side the truck unless they are in a water proof box.
We mount one on the rear of the truck, it makes it easy to trouble shoot or add more stuff later.

Buy a pre made switch panel. They are cheap and look nice. I custom make mine, But thats because I use aircraft switches, and I make them do cool things. I was going to school for advanced electronics, and digital circuitry.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

By the way, those cheap rubber lights have never broken, even with rear plow.


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## DeereGuy (Dec 12, 2003)

I've read this thread and am currently (today)trying to wire a set of PIAA 1500 backup lights that came prewired with a three way switch, relay etc.. My light setup came basically wired just like you guys are explaining above from what I gather. ( I'm electrically challenged ).

My question is this. Can I find a way to connect the relay wire to the reverse circuit under the hood? or behind the dash? I don't want to use those blasted scotch-locks and I've already threaded the two leads for the 2 rear lights carefully housed in flexible conduit all the way back. I hate making connection under the bed as it always goes bad after a year or so. I have an 04 Chevy 2500. I want it to be as permanent as possible. I don't want to cut into any wiring if possible. Can I use a piggyback fuse from the fusebox? Is this switched when I put the truck in reverse? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I looked in a couple of stores for a wiring diagram for this new truck but couldn't find anything. I did think of trying to find a T connector for part of the trailer hookup. This would give me another reverse wire to use but there really isn't enough room between the spare tire and the orig factory connector to fit in another connector. What about under the dash? Thanks


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

Deereguy- So you know my back round, I have taken 9 electrical/digital/microprocessor classes. Could get an engineering degree if I want. My friends trust my wire jobs over the factory/snowplow/trailer companies.

There will be a wire under the dash, but I have no idea which. I steal the rev. circuit from the trailer plug. The reason for that is if you have a problem you blow the trailer fuse, not the truck rev. fuse. Do not use connectors, out side the truck. Soider, the wire and run it to the cab. You can also, use that same circut on a switch to control your back-up beeper. Wire it so the relay is on only when the man. option is chosen. Wire both, the auto, and man so the power that is lighting the switches comes straight off the battery, do not tap into any other circuits, your lights will be dimmer.

My advise on those lights, depends on wear you mount them. Most visible light, put them under the bumper. If your lights are plastic they will break. Those cheap, tractor lights are made of rubber, I have never had to replace them.

If you want more info. PM me and I will give you about 100 tricks so you install it one time, and never touch it again. I can give you a wiring diagram, what I do to my trucks.


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## EIB (Oct 30, 2002)

elite1,

Why don't you post on here so we all can see what you do. Maybe I'll change the way I did my wiring.

Everett


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## gcfisher75 (Nov 4, 2003)

I can't give you guys any pics but I have a 78' ford f150 with round tractor utility lights mounted under the steel bumper, kept breaking them off due to mudding, so I built a enclosure for them it's made out of 1/4" steel with grating towards the back of the truck, they are so stought that I can jack the truck up with them, I'll never have any problems with them busting off on any snowbank anyhow, maybe if someone rearends me. lol You can never go overkill. lol


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## DeereGuy (Dec 12, 2003)

elite1,

I worked on it a bit today but it seems like quit a mess under the hood with the extra wire all bundled together. I didn't want to cut the factory harness that came with the PIAA's but may in the spring when its warmer in order to clean things up a bit.

The Factory PIAA harness came with a fuse on the hot lead and a relay with a wire to hook up to the reverse circuit. The main reason that I don't want to run the reverse circuit lead to the rear bumper is that it's already done and it wasn't easy to do(At least not for me). I didn't include this reverse circuit lead in the flexible conduit. I also didn't want a quick fix that I would have to repair every year. My auto manual states that the color of the backup light wire at the 7 pin connector on the back bumper is lt gray. Will the same color scheme be used under my dash?

I'm assuming that since the relay is what controls the transfer of power that the switch never has a significant draw though it. Is this correct. I may break down and rip out what I've done in order to get the reverse circuit working but I'm not liking the idea of taking it apart.

I mounted the pair of low profile lamps under the bumper for a permanent fix; at least until I hit a big snow bank... I put them slightly under the bumper with a 20" spread. The reason, right or wrong, is that the tow hitch assembly is right behind them and may protect them a little from the back. I didn't want them directly behind my tires as I'm not using mud flaps and I've had bad experiences with tail lights in the past exacerbated by all the mess flying up at them. By the way, these expensive PIAA 1500's are sold as aux backup lights. I mean, that's what they are marketed as. They are small rectangular floods with a bracket that only sits about 1/8" off them. I mounted them a little bit skewed to brighten the sides better since I didn't spread them to the ends of the bumper. I thought about running them temp. on top next to the lic.plate but thought they may get stolen. If I ever get them working I'll post the good and bad. I'd like to find a factory manual to look at and I may just go to the dealer and see if he'll print me a page or two to find a wire on the column.


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## DeereGuy (Dec 12, 2003)

Yup, that's the nice thing about having an older truck. Weld away, it certainly can't hurt and you can make just about anything bulletproof.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

Yes, the wire color should be the same up front as the rear. Follow the wiring harness to the front. and you should find a good place for it.

Ok. I will go and buy a camera and take pictures of my installs, and post a good diagram. It is going to snow (2nd time all yr.) so I will be busy the next day or 2.

Here is a short List of what I recom. to buy if you are going to do it right. Keep in mind this will cost you $$$.

Tractor Lights- rear lights
Tractor Lights-spreader lights
Warning Lights-rotators,strobes-what ever
Warning Lights- 2nd system- wide a way - in my truck
Back up beeper
Large maxi fuse - 40 Amp
Lots of wire. - I buy 10 rolls at a time.
Lots of connectors 
Flexible conduit-Blue -Used too run along the frame, rear to front 20 ft.- Don't confuse it with black thin split tubing.
You will also need split tubing
terminal grease/Bat. protectent spray
7 wire Water proof en-closer- Trailer places sell them as junction boxes

You will need to consider if you want to run all the wires in the cab, and have live power at each switch. (2) Run 2 small sprinkler wire (has 5 22 gauge) in the truck and have a box under the hood with relays - requires alot more work.

Trailer cable is nice to use in the cab, if you are going to run live power. I would just buy a pre made switch panel (galls) if you choose this option.

I took the hard way and ran the sprinkler wire, but I also made my switch panel using aircraft switches. The are dim, when off
Bright when on, and flash when a fuse blows. They back light a label that is inserted in the switch.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

I just finished drawing this up. my first pic on this site, I hope it works
I also wire custom alarm systems/remote systems. My trucks have both and I can turn on/off heat/air con. windows up/down all by remote.

I just tried to post it but the file is too big, now what?


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## ih82plow (Dec 23, 2003)

I am running the kc back up lamp kit ,

All I can say is WOW they are the greatest. Mine are aimed to the side and rear.he throw A nice pattern not to far backwards but I have them set to light up the side area.They are also switched and the first diagram show (excellent drawing by the way) I took the trigger off of the trailer wiring circut (03 silverado) if I get ambious this summer I will change the trigger to feed off of the rear back up bulbs 

The reason for that is when I hit the clicker to unlock the truck it turns on the lights including the rear back up lamps and if my flood trigger was connect there the floods would also go on.

Anybody with out them GET THEM I purchased my floods on line for 65.00 including shipping And I now wonder how I did with out them.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

USE RELAYS to switch your lights whenever possible. You can buy 20 and 30 amp relays at most part stores (fog light area). Use the positive wire off the backup lights as the relay trigger. The negative side of the relay you use a switch to ground so you can turn them off when you don't need them. Do not POWER the high output backup lights off the backup lights (positive lead), just use it to trigger the relay. The switch in the backup light system is not designed for all that current flow. You would have to replace the switch pretty quickly and it's probably not real easy to do. A backup alarm could run off the light circuit and just switch to negative lead to ground so you can turn it off when you need to.
Protect all the new wires you run, try to use at least a wire loom over them or like above conduit. Always protect circuits with the right value fuse as close to the + source as possible. Truck fires are no fun, even worse if it's your truck!

A cheap backup light set:
Advanced Auto Parts had the cheap cone style marker lights in white. They take a peanut bulb, but hey there's plug in backup bulbs that plug right in where the peanut bulbs used to be.
HEY WHAT ya want for $6, I said cheap


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## korelandscaping (Mar 1, 2001)

Yes...KC's are impressive. I have them on both my trucks and they are awesome. I wired them with a in-cab switch as well as when the vehicle goes in reverse.


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## Tom Baldwin (Mar 2, 2003)

On the newer GMs there is a back-up wire in the cab but in some it may be hard to find. The reverse switch is on the trans not under the dash. It goes from there to the tail lamp harness to go the rear for the lights and the trailer harness. It also goes to the ABS controller, then to the cab to switch the day/night auto dimming mirrors back to clear to see better when backing. So if you have a rear view mirror with electronics (lights, or compas, or auto dimming) you have a place to get to the back-up wire. Test at the connector with a test light or volt meter. If you don't have any mirror options (like my truck) you have to find the connector on the base harness that the options' harness connects to. I have yet to do this, I could not find this connector on the electrical component locater in after market manuals. But it should be there somewere: under the dash, in one of the pillars, or in the roof. Just incase that truck need to get the options.
The wire is Lt Green in some of the years but there are lots of Lt Green wires in the cab.


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## DeereGuy (Dec 12, 2003)

Thanks Tom, I do have the auto dimming, compass mirror, but your one day to late. I ripped out my previous work yesterday and sent the reverse circuit wire for the relay to the back of the truck. So my options now are, to solder the wire somehow to the 7 pin connector, or go to the reverse bulb tail light. I'm not sure that I want the floods to come on when I use the remote so I'm thinking of using the trailer wiring. 

ih82plow wants this feature and he's going to the tail light in the future. I'm not sure how bright 2 H3 bulbs are so thats part of the problem. The other problem is that it was so cold yesterday that Zip Ties kept snapping on me and even the good 3M 88 elect. tape stopped sticking. I gave up when I couldn't figure out how to take apart the battery terminal to connect the hot and neg wires. (I had the same truck previously for 17 years but things have obviously changed.) The large terminal nut turns but the silver 5/16 lug on top doesn't. Is it threaded backwards? Or did the guy putting in the plow electrical just crank it down? Any help? I'm going to buy a manual even if it isn't for the current yr. I wish GM put out a factory manual like Toyota and JDeere.

Sorry for jumping around but, if I could determine and find the lt green wire to the ABS I may still work it that way. I won't be working on it until I find a warm garage. Plastic breaks to easy in this cold we're having.


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## Tom Baldwin (Mar 2, 2003)

Go to ACDelco.com then 'The Store', from there its easy. Most any manual from 'Helm' will be there. Or call the toll free number in the back of your owners manual. The dealer will refer you to these or go to them and make a profit from you. The manuals are pricey put you get everything you ever needed to know about your vehical. The main manual set is usually about $120.00 for 4. The engine and trans reference is extra, about $50.00 a piece. If you don't have the tools the trans one is really not needed for most all cases. Everything from maintenance and adjustment procedures, troubleshooting, repair details, and wiring diagrams are in these things. Much more complete and accurate than aftermarket manuals (chilton, hayse, alldata)


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## DeereGuy (Dec 12, 2003)

Tom,

I went to the acdelco site but manuals for 03-04 are unavailable according to the info. (I may call them anyway.) Only transmission manuals are available. Good resource however, and I will try at a later date. I find that this type of factory manual always pays for itself if you keep your vehicle or tractor long enough. The wiring diagram manual if $50. would have been worth it on just this little job.


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## Tom Baldwin (Mar 2, 2003)

The 2004 is not yet available. 2003 is the part # is 'GMT03CK8PU' $120.00, 4vol. set. All the service manuals for 2003 are available. None yet for 2004.


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## DeereGuy (Dec 12, 2003)

Tom, 
I'll probably wait for the 04 set but thanks for straightening that out. I did borrow a relatives warm garage to finish wiring up the backup lamps. I soldered to the inside of the 7-pin trailer connector as suggested by elite1. I also fastened down the isolation module and cleaned up the wiring the plow installers left. Every thing looks much better and I don't have to worry about the module bouncing around. The lights are a vast improvement but I need to angle them a little more to the sides. Hopefully we'll get this snow tomorrow and I can really try them out.

On another note: how useful is my extra battery. It's not hooked up to anything directly except the 1st battery. My lights still dim during some functions. With the truck shut off the lights are not nearly as strong as when the alternator is turning. Is this thing a waste. Is it the same type of battery as the 1st one or a deep cell type? Just wondering, not real important.


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## duke (Nov 1, 2002)

My set up is on the whitenight bu lights thread. I started with the whiteknights set up, then went though a couple of sets of switches and solenoids and gave up. I'm very happy with this setup... and it works great (got to use it during last weeks storm)  . The best part of this set up is the side lighting, for curbe veiwing and to see if the snow is rolling under the truck. The Hellas on the rear are not cheap but well worth it. I couldn't plow without Aux. rear lighting ever again...


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