# GRRRR Now a new problem



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

So I bought this 1 owner 1995 3500 reg cab 4x4 105k miles it had been a Florida state owned highway work truck. It was in decent truck and seemed perfect for plowing. I used it all last winter then it sat threw the summer. Now this winter it had made it threw 4 snow storms when the tranny went out 107K miles now. I had the tranny rebuilt cost $1900 for my 4l80e with a new torque converter and all new internals, a 3 year unlimited mile warranty. So i get it back yesterday and got called out to do a small 4 hr route. I decided to use this truck instead of my f250 powerstroke daily driver. By the time i finished i barley made it home cause the rear end has now gone BAD GRRRRRRRRRRR


----------



## SnowGuy73 (Apr 7, 2003)

That sucks. 

Its not used to working, it was state owned!

Haha.


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

lol^^^^^ your probably correct


----------



## GVL LLC (Feb 24, 2013)

you should have changed your front and rear diff fluid when you bought the truck. It would have taken you an hour and a half for both max and your rear end wouldnt have gone out with that few of miles


----------



## sameoldthang (Jul 31, 2010)

Do you know what rear axle? GM 10.5 or I think a dana 80. Was it making noise ? Binding?


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

no binding ... its just slipping on take off. its alot better when i take off in 4wd.. I dont know what rear end it has ..I'll have to check. srw 95 gmc 3500 4x4 reg cab with a 454


----------



## sameoldthang (Jul 31, 2010)

tranny fluid level oK?


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

the tranny is BRAND NEW


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

1982atm;1726489 said:


> the tranny is BRAND NEW


Doesn't matter 
Stuff can happen.

Sounds like trans to me too. Rear ends don't usually slip like that. They usually just snap.

Its possible rear end is slipping, but start with the trans


----------



## sameoldthang (Jul 31, 2010)

That doesn't mean anything. Just check the basics and fluid levels, transfer case full? I assume the rear axle was ok before the tranny went. Its funny how all the sudden the rear axle is shot. 4L80e and both of those rear axles are pretty heavy duty.


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

I took it to my mechanic, a friend of mine and he changed a u joint and checked everything and determined it's the rear end.


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

When you take off in 2wd you hit the gas and it seems to bang in the rear then take off. Everything is good while driving but if you let off the gas coast then get back on the gas you feel play in the drive train


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Did you check the fluid?

Did you check the rear end fluid to see if it has shavings. 

Is this the same mechanic that did the rear end. We would probably drive out with tout the driveshaft in on the lift


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

No I haven't personally checked the rear end fluid. But I checked the tranny fluid. Clean new and full


----------



## CAT 245ME (Sep 10, 2006)

That truck should have the 14 Bolt full floater, with regular fluid changes will last as long as the truck. I have one out of 76 K20 in the back of my 85 K20. Never touched the inside of it except fluid change.

Normally you can pick up one of these rear ends used for about $150.


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

CAT 245ME;1726722 said:


> That truck should have the 14 Bolt full floater, with regular fluid changes will last as long as the truck. I have one out of 76 K20 in the back of my 85 K20. Never touched the inside of it except fluid change.
> 
> Normally you can pick up one of these rear ends used for about $150.


So what is it I need to look for? Besides 14 bolt full floater


----------



## CAT 245ME (Sep 10, 2006)

1982atm;1726730 said:


> So what is it I need to look for? Besides 14 bolt full floater


First you will need to know the gear ratio you have in the truck, then just find a 14 Bolt FF with the same matching gears, I'm guessing your truck should have 3.73's or 4.10's.

A rear end out of a 90's K2500 or 3500 SRW should be a direct bolt in. Pretty easy to do, but beware the 14 Bolt FF is heavy.

Scroll down to see a pic of a Full Floater, this is what you should have in the truck.

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...sas-parts-suppliers-14bff-swap-info-pics.html

To bad you live a couple days away, I have one out of a 94 K2500 Suburban.


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

How do I figure out the gear ratio? Can you use the Vin to determine it ?


----------



## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

By the way, beautiful eyes and smile,who's the squid on the right, brother?, friend? Hope you get it all sorted out .:waving: Need more women joining the plowing ranks!Thumbs Up


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

Lmao.. I'm the squid. .. But my wife is the one looking good.


----------



## CAT 245ME (Sep 10, 2006)

1982atm;1726763 said:


> How do I figure out the gear ratio? Can you use the Vin to determine it ?


Should be in your glove box.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ion-22/what-gears-do-i-have-rpo-codes-502933/


----------



## 1982atm (Dec 20, 2010)

so you guys were correct it was something in the tranny... that fixed it under warranty


----------



## gmcdan (Nov 4, 2011)

1982atm;1726763 said:


> How do I figure out the gear ratio? Can you use the Vin to determine it ?


next time when you change dif fluid look at the outer edge of the ring gear will have 2 sets of numbers such as 45-11, 45 teeth on ring gear 11 teeth on pinion gear divide 11 into 45 45/11 = 4.09 to 1 . gears would be 4.09 or 4.10 s . front and rear can be off a little from one another .


----------

