# 8 1/2 foot plow on 6" lifted Tahoe



## Tahoeplower

Hey, I'm just putting the plow mount for a 8 1/2 foot plow on my '96 Tahoe with a 6" lift. I know, I know, that's WAY too big of a plow. But I got it used for $800 and can't complain. Anyways, I'm putting the mount on this weekend, and considering trading someone for a 7 1/2 foot plow, more appropriate for a Tahoe. My question is, with everyone complaining that 8-foot PLUS plows squat the front end down too much, is it doing damage to the drivetrain, or is it just that the front end squats so much, it rubs on tires? I have alot of "squat room" available with the lift in it, and 33" tires. There's probably 6-8" between the top of the tire, and the fender, so I'm not too worried about it rubbing. Is it going to kill my bearings and joints? Sure would be nice to be able to clear 8 1/2 ft. of snow as opposed to only 7. Looking forward to any advice you can offer, THANKS!


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## basher

.


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## Tahoeplower

not sure if that's the advice I meant.


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## 2COR517

Maybe a pic of your setup would help


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## toby4492

basher;1121192 said:


> .


Here just in case you get thirsty


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## the new boss 92

take a look into some of the hts, before some one come here and tells you your IDIOT. no harm but you should use the search button seems to work for some? GOOD LUCK!


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## Tahoeplower

@*The New Boss 92*- when I said I was open to advice, I guess I didn't mean criticism. I'm new to this, never owned a plow before. Only bought one to help some elderly neighbors clear their driveway this winter. I could've gotten away with a snowblower for my property. Anywyays, I've been on this site for a week reading people's posts and responses. Closest I can find is a guy with a 2 1/2" body lift. Not the same setup as mine. Mine's a 6" suspension lift. So, no- no one else's thread could answer my question.

@*2COR517*- I'll get some pics as soon as I get it all mounted. Working on fabbing some brackets tonight, hoping to get it mounted without any hang-ups. I suppose that will answer 1/2 of my question just getting it on there, and seeing how it looks.

And thanks for the popcorn and beer *Basher* and *Toby*!


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## quigleysiding

:laughing:


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## theplowmeister

did they change the differential gear ratios when they went to bigger tires. No, so it will be like plowing in 2nd gear.

the thing you need to worry about is getting the plow to sit proper you will have to lower the truck side plow hook up frame (read that as custom mount) and that lower push plate will add quite a bit of force to the truck frame. (try to twist the frame down in the front) so bracing the frame will be needed.


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## the new boss 92

soory i was a little antsey yesterday. what i should have said was NO because its only a half ton and you are already puttuing you axles to a test with what size tire you have37's? go buy a beater plow truck and be done with it, dont ruin your nice lifted tahoe!


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## Schwinn68

what brand of plow? I've got a 7.5 western that I would trade for a 8.5


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## Tahoeplower

*trade*

*@Schwinn*- It's a western, tradition mount. I'd be up for a trade (I actually have a Craigslist ad running to trade). I'd actually like to trade to someone who could fab me some new brackets, if possible, since I don't weld, and whoever gets the bigger plow will be coming out ahead anyways. My cousin was going to do it for me, but he's got so much going on right now, I'd be cutting into his paying side jobs, and don't want to cut into his income. But... do you even know where I'm located? Southcentral WI.

*@Plowmeister*- yeah, I had the notion to have brackets fabbed lower off the frame, and support that with a few bolts and permanent welds to support the pressure from plowing. Thinking it will drop it about 4" with brackets, and come closer to a stock stance. And no, the gear ratio is stock, but I assume I'll be plowing in low gear anyways. It's a 350, so it doesn't lack the power, it's not like I'm pushing with a 6 cylinder. And they're not 37" tires, they're 33's.

*@New Boss*- That was my first thought, to buy a beater with a plow on it, but I just don't want the additional costs that go along with it- insurance, etc, for something I'll only use to plow. I'm on a budget with Christmas coming, and now getting pinched to get it all done before the snow flies.

Thanks again everyone for the advice. Much appreciated.


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## PabstBlueRibbon

Hope you have lots of money for wheel bearings and ball joints. That size plow will chew right through them.


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## Tahoeplower

That's kind of what I thought. That's why I'm looking to trade for a 7 1/2 foot.


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## theplowmeister

Tahoeplower;1122491 said:


> That's kind of what I thought. That's why I'm looking to trade for a 7 1/2 foot.


Before you look to hard what is the difference in weight between a 7 1/2 and your plow?


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## Tahoeplower

theplowmeister;1122630 said:


> Before you look to hard what is the difference in weight between a 7 1/2 and your plow?


that's a good question. You wouldn't think much, being only a foot less. But I'm sure it's less support brackets, probably less height. Just made sense since most other Tahoes I found had 7-7 1/2 ft. plows on them. Western website also suggested 7 - 7 1/2 ft. But I suppose the newer ones are lighter. Maybe not, I don't know.


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## outlaw66

as long as you drop the truckside frame, you should be fine.. 
If its a quaility lift, the balljoint angles are close to stock so you wont take them out any more than a non lifted tahoe. One of my truck I had was similiar and had a 4" lift, only downfall was the low plowframe when not plowing.

Where are you from, may be able to help with fab of the mount.


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## Tahoeplower

Well, I finally figured out how to mount it. Using a 2x6 tube steel to cross the front of the frame for latteral support, then tabs on bottom to mount the plow mount to. All tabs bolted and welded for support. The tube steel will be bolted with 4 bolts to the bottom of the frame, and tabs welded on the tube to put 4 more bolts to the side of the frame rail. So 8 bolts to hold the tube on. Then there's 2 support brackets that come out from the bottom of the mount that will get mounted to the crossmember, or part of the frame. So, with the dropped tube and mounting brackets, it should drop it around 7-8" and bring it closer to stock height (6" lift, and 2" oversized tires). Bought myself a welder, and trying to manage it myself. Taking some time, seeing as how this is my first fabrication project, but I want to do it right. Thanks for all the input!


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## basher

Don't forget to support the tube at the bolt holes if you are going to though bolt it so it doesn't collapse and at least forty five degrees for the thruster arms to have any strength. It surprises me you could buy a welder and all the equipment capable of handling the required material for less then you could have paid an experienced fabricator to do it. But if you're an experienced welder you should be able to scab something together to make it work.


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## 2COR517

So you are putting the 2x6 edgewise for 6" of drop? That may actually be more than you need. I would put the original brackets on, mount the plow, and find out exactly what you need for drop.

And, pictures......


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## Tahoeplower

the 2x6 is mounted flat (6"side flush with frame), then tabs (2 for each of the 2 brackets) that drop off that, another 6". The plow mount itself doesn't fit the Tahoe. It was off an older pickup with a solid front axle, instead of the IFS that I have. As far as total cost for supplies and equipment as opposed to paying someone to do it, so far I have around $300 into supplies and equipment. Most other people that I've seen on here have payed alot more than that to get their plow mounted, and that's only to be fabbed to fit their stock truck, not to be dropped another 6-8". I bought a cheap 110 volt welder and equipment at harbor freight, only $100. 114 reviews on it and all were 5 star with better than expected results. No, I'm not an experienced welder. As a matter of fact, one cousin gave me a crash course one night, then another cousin checked out what I had done so far, and gave it the A-OK. Suggested a few modifications to what I had planned. And everything that I'm welding, I'm also bolting as extra measure in case my beginner welds fail. I COULD have paid someone to do it (at a much higher cost than what I'm in so far), but like the old saying goes- give a man a fish, feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and feed him for life. The experience and knowlege are worth 100 times what I have in it. Thanks for the advice on the 45 angles. Will definitely keep that in mind when I mount the thruster arms. Thanks again!


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## basher

basher;1127438 said:


> It surprises me you could buy a welder and all the equipment capable of handling the required material for less then you could have paid an experienced fabricator to do it. But if you're an experienced welder you should be able to scab something together to make it work.





Tahoeplower;1127542 said:


> I bought a cheap 110 volt welder and equipment at harbor freight, only $100. 114 reviews on it and all were 5 star with better than expected results. No, I'm not an experienced welder!


I stand by my original statement.


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## toby4492




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## Tahoeplower

Basher- not sure what you mean?


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## outlaw66

welding a plow mount with little gun time and a 110v welder....wo, maybe find a friend with abigger machine an expirence for a job like this.


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## FLMan

Tahoeplower;1121094 said:


> Hey, I'm just putting the plow mount for a 8 1/2 foot plow on my '96 Tahoe with a 6" lift. I know, I know, that's WAY too big of a plow. But I got it used for $800 and can't complain. Anyways, I'm putting the mount on this weekend, and considering trading someone for a 7 1/2 foot plow, more appropriate for a Tahoe. My question is, with everyone complaining that 8-foot PLUS plows squat the front end down too much, is it doing damage to the drivetrain, or is it just that the front end squats so much, it rubs on tires? I have alot of "squat room" available with the lift in it, and 33" tires. There's probably 6-8" between the top of the tire, and the fender, so I'm not too worried about it rubbing. Is it going to kill my bearings and joints? Sure would be nice to be able to clear 8 1/2 ft. of snow as opposed to only 7. Looking forward to any advice you can offer, THANKS!




That plow is going to be way to heavy for a Tahoe, even too heavy for a 1 ton pickup truck in my opinion. Isn't a Tahoe nothing more then a passenger SUV?


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## mnglocker

That truck isn't meant to plow with; period. 

The ball joints and wheel bearings are undersized to start with, now you've added the leverage and weight of larger tires and a lift kit. 

Let's not forget chevey's frame cracking on 1500/2500/3500 chassis by the rear upper control arm bracket. 

And a 110v flux-core junk pile from Horrible Freight isn't going to give enough penetration to support the weight of a Green Bay girl, let alone a plow. Bare minimum for 110v welders is a milller/hobart 140amp MIG setup with c25 blend shielding gas and that's cranked up to the max for heat.


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## White Gardens

mnglocker;1133744 said:


> And a 110v flux-core junk pile from Horrible Freight isn't going to give enough penetration to support the weight of a Green Bay girl, let alone a plow. Bare minimum for 110v welders is a milller/hobart 140amp MIG setup with c25 blend shielding gas and that's cranked up to the max for heat.


:laughing:


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## basher

Tahoeplower;1127629 said:


> Basher- not sure what you mean?


*


outlaw66;1133026 said:



welding a plow mount with little gun time and a 110v welder....wo, maybe find a friend with abigger machine an expirence for a job like this.

Click to expand...




FLMan;1133700 said:



That plow is going to be way to heavy for a Tahoe, even too heavy for a 1 ton pickup truck in my opinion.

Click to expand...




 mnglocker;1133744 said:



That truck isn't meant to plow with; period. 
The ball joints and wheel bearings are undersized to start with, now you've added the leverage and weight of larger tires and a lift kit. 
Let's not forget chevey's frame cracking on 1500/2500/3500 chassis by the rear upper control arm bracket. 
And a 110v flux-core junk pile from Horrible Freight isn't going to give enough penetration to support the weight of a Green Bay girl, let alone a plow. Bare minimum for 110v welders is a milller/hobart 140amp MIG setup with c25 blend shielding gas and that's cranked up to the max for heat Being operated by an experanced welder

Click to expand...

.*
Understand now?


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## mnglocker

basher;1133877 said:


> Understand now?


NO ENGRISH! UG NOT COMPREHENDO. :laughing:


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## quigleysiding

You got that thing mounted up yet. Lets see some pics


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## 2COR517

quigleysiding;1134885 said:


> You got that thing mounted up yet. Lets see some pics


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## FLMan

quigleysiding;1134885 said:


> You got that thing mounted up yet. Lets see some pics


Pics? How about a Youtube of the Tahoe in action, so we can see the full effect of the front end being destroyed :crying:


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## Tahoeplower

Wow, thanks for the criticism. Very helpful. No, I haven't gotten it done yet. Death in the family set me back a week, then the distributor rotor lost a screw, and has been in the shop for the last 4 days while they figured out why it had a blown head gasket and wouldn't start. (4 days counting 2 days on the weekend), and have a 5-9" snow storm coming tomorrow. Not looking good for the first storm. That with all the replies and advice, not so sure I'm into this anymore. It's just a damn snow plow, not like I'm building an airplane here! Let's also keep in mind, I'm not using this for a comercial snow plowing service. Just my driveway, and a few other neighbors. Looking at my original idea of trading it for a smaller plow. Shouldn't have trouble doing that. Hopefully have it done in the next week, and I'll put up some pics. If it doesn't work for **** like you guys say, it sure will look good! A Tahoe is a pssenger SUV, but it is the older style, built on a chevy 1500 frame. And MNGLOCKER- are you ******** or just one of those guys who jumps on the band wagon to get attention off yourself. You have a '94 1/2 ton with an 8 foot plow. A Tahoe is based on a 1/2 ton frame. Not seeing much difference. Other than myself having a little extra natural ballast in the rear by haveing an SUV, and not an empty bed. Sure the welder is small, but everthing's bolted, the welding is only to add extra insurance. Or the other way around, however you want to look at it. I assume I'll put extra wear and tear on the vehicle, but it's still gotta be cheaper than buying a separate vehicle to plow with. It's not a business for me, and I don't have an extra $10,000 laying around to buy a separate truck. Just trying to make something work, and maybe make a few bucks on the side.


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## quigleysiding

Sorry to here about the death in your family.It sucks to have a Plow in your driveway and have to shovel snow.Hopefully you can have it together for the next storm.After you get it together try and find someone with a real welder to lay a couple beads on it for you.The welder you bought won't get enough penetration to hold good.If you do all the fab work yourself you should be able to get someone to put a couple of beads on it for cheap.You will find plenty of other stuff for your new welder. Then put some pics up.We love pics.


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## FLMan

Tahoe, you have an 8 1/2' plow that belongs on a commercial chassis, not a 1/2 ton, not a 3/4 ton, not a 1 ton. Should be on a class 4 or 5 chassis. Say an F-450 or a 4500 truck. The only pickup that plow should be on is one with front leaf springs and a SFA, if they still made them. wesport


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## 2COR517

FLMan;1136254 said:


> Tahoe, you have an 8 1/2' plow that belongs on a commercial chassis, not a 1/2 ton, not a 3/4 ton, not a 1 ton. Should be on a class 4 or 5 chassis. Say an F-450 or a 4500 truck. The only pickup that plow should be on is one with front leaf springs and a SFA, if they still made them. wesport


Your understanding of the capabilities of a pickup are way off.

What truck would you recommend to run a 9-5 vee with wings?

Let me guess......Peterbuilt, Mack, Kenworth..


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## mnglocker

FLMan;1136254 said:


> ...Tahoe, you have an 8 1/2' plow that belongs on a commercial chassis, not a 1/2 ton, not a 3/4 ton, not a 1 ton. Should be on a class 4 or 5 chassis. Say an F-450 or a 4500 truck. The only pickup that plow should be on is one with front leaf springs and a SFA, if they still made them. wesport


Exactly. MY old beater half ton with the 8 foot plow has a SFA and is with in the FGAW rating by about 50 lbs. I have 800lbs of rear ballast in that truck. That is more than the "natural ballast" of your tahoe. The tahoe is an IFS truck that is built on a chassis known for it's font end weak points.

If, and thats IF you manage to get this thing hooked up, you'll hit the lift switch and the truck will nose drive, you'll hit the first bump with the plow raised and break a number of things up front.

In reference to your weak POS soldering iron of a welder: If you can't get the welds hot enough for good penetration all you've done is de-temper the metal and any heat treating it has had, making it weaker and more likely to break around the bolts that you are using.

So yeah, I'm a ****** and you're just butt hurt over the "Green Bay Girl" comment. :waving:


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## mnglocker

And yes, I would pursue trying to trade your monster blade for an 7.5'er, however you're still going to be over the GFAW capacity by a fair amount.


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## FLMan

2COR517;1136259 said:


> Your understanding of the capabilities of a pickup are way off.
> 
> What truck would you recommend to run a 9-5 vee with wings?
> 
> Let me guess......Peterbuilt, Mack, Kenworth..


On a Tahoe of course


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## 7d9_z28

*wow*

this forum seems more hateful then helpful. good god people, he asked for advice, helpful hints, etc. not brutal criticism. my truck last year was a 78 chevy half ton, with a beat up 350, and almost no body. truck was beyond limping on its last leg. had a HEAVY ASS MOFO northman commercial plow on it, with a mount bigger than some of the road commisions 1ton trucks had. was an 8 foot straightblade with a thick steel plate welded onto on side like a wing. never a single problem with it. no frame cracks, no breaking, nothing. truck had crap for brakes, crap for floor, NO WEIGHT in bed, u joints missing caps, you name it. daily drove it all winter, plowed all winter. and it ran 31" tires, your are only 33 not much bigger. who cares what these people "think" about it, it will look AWESOME! it will work im sure, maybe some of these people just need to hear themselves complain. sure its always a risk to plow with your truck. no matter what truck you have, s#!t is gunna break, especially if you plow. would love to see it when its on!


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## Tahoeplower

FLMan- you need to update what you're plowing with. So far, I'm getting advice from a guy who plows with a lawn mower. And you're criticising my Tahoe. Maybe I read that wrong. So, following your logic, what do you have for your lawn mower? A butter dish taped to the front? I completely agree that an 8 1/2 footer is by far too big for a Tahoe if I was plowing commercially, and I agree that a Tahoe is not an ideal vehicle to plow with. BUT... I have a driveway that I own. I live in WI, and get snow that falls on said driveway, that becomes MY snow to remove. I have a 1996 Tahoe. And I have an 8 1/2 foot Western snow plow. Add it all up, and I will have a cleared driveway, and an 8 1/2 foot western squatting down the front end of my Tahoe. Might even paint a f*cking smiley face on the front of it just for you. This is what I have for now, and this is what I will use. And IF it is just too much for the ol' girl, I will trade for a smaller one. I will get a Youtube video JUST for you. I'll try to watch out for your lawn mower, so I don't burry it in a snow bank. So, who's d*ck's bigger, seems to be the real question? See, now you've forced me down to your level. I feel stupid already. Must be hard walking around feeling like that all the time, isn't it? You're giving advice on a snow plow, not a surgical procedure. I have my doubts you're as intelligent as you seem to think you are. Let me know how that mower does in the first 12" snowfall. While you're sniffling, freezing, and digging snow out with your hands to get the little girl unstuck, I'll be sipping some cocoa in a t-shirt from the warmth of my over-GFAW'd Tahoe. 

7d9- much appreciated. Seemed to be the case, didn't it? Glad to see it isn't just me.

And thanks everyone else for some real advice, not criticism. That makes sense about the welding- as far as weakening it. My cousin has a 220 stick welder I will have put some fatties over the welds I do.


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## FLMan

I had 3 plow trucks, 2 older Dodges with SFA, and a Ford F250 with twin I beam Suspension. Dodge 1 was a 1/2 ton with a 7 1/2' Meyers Dodge 2 was 3/4 ton with an 8" Fisher plow, and never had any problems holding it up. The Ford actually had problems with the twin I beam, where it tore through the bolts, that was a 1 ton with an 8' snow boss. As far as I am concerned a 7 1/2' plow is plenty for these modern mall assault pick up trucks with their car like front suspension. Maybe the Tahoe will be OK with a 7 1/2' plow, but an 8 1/2' Nada. 

Any ways, enough of beater trucks to clean up snow at my property, I now have a John Deere Compact utility tractor, it is not a lawn mower :laughing:

I will change the sig pic, when I get some snow to plow and then you can see my high torque "lawn mower"  in action wesport


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## basher

Tahoeplower;1137273 said:


> That makes sense about the welding- as far as weakening it. My cousin has a 220 stick welder I will have put some fatties over the welds I do.


You will never get any better penetration then the first pass. If the first pass sucks running another one over it is a waste of electric and good rod. If you are determed to proceed with this foolish stunt then at least take it to your cousin with the stick machine and let him do all the welding.

As for your feelings of no support just criticism, perhaps it is because those of us who have been doing this for longer then you have been alive, have more weld certifications then you know exist, have built and installed more custom mounts then you've probably seen plows and have maybe some engineering training (or degree) and have repaired the damages caused by inadequate installs and poorly designed custom mounts systems get tired of listening to the tripe coming from an inexperienced individual who refuses to take advice then will then post in another forum (because he is embarrassed to post here) negative comments on the plow/truck/lift manufacturer because they decided to do something stupid against the advice of both the manufacturers and seasoned professionals.

Or maybe we are all jealous because you are going to show us that we don't know what we are talking about


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## Tahoeplower

I see where you're going with this. And it all makes sense. Hence the reason I'm looking for advice to begin with.


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## Tahoeplower

According to http://www.driverside.com/specs/chevrolet-tahoe-1996-1904-4272-0?style_id=10616 , the curb weight of the front axle is 2690. The gross axle weight rating for the front is 3600. So I have around 900 pounds to work with, right? Or am I reading that wrong? Do you guys think this thing weighs more than 900 pounds? I can't tell, but some of you in the business I'm sure know right off hand. There's also the matter that it sticks out the front end so many feet and the leverage adds "weight" of sorts.


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## mnglocker

Tahoeplower;1138067 said:


> According to http://www.driverside.com/specs/chevrolet-tahoe-1996-1904-4272-0?style_id=10616 , the curb weight of the front axle is 2690. The gross axle weight rating for the front is 3600. So I have around 900 pounds to work with, right? Or am I reading that wrong? Do you guys think this thing weighs more than 900 pounds? I can't tell, but some of you in the business I'm sure know right off hand. There's also the matter that it sticks out the front end so many feet and the leverage adds "weight" of sorts.


Let's not forget the lift kit, components add weight, then there's also the question of what kind of lift is it? Did you get new front spindles, or did you use upper-ball joint spacers? (The later will weaken the load capacity of the front end.)

For example, let's say the front subframe kit that lowers the front differential and lower control arm mounting points weighs 150lbs. That is sprung weight that uses your front axle capacity up. That would leave you with 3600-2690-150=760. Now lets not forget that plow is going to weigh more once you start using it. The back side, frame and truck frame are going to get caked in heavy compacted snow.

Western list the weight of the older 9' pre "power tube" type pro-plow at 750lbs complete.

So with those numbers, that leaves you with about 10lbs to spare. Start dieting right away and don't put more than 16 onces or so of fuel in the tank.


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## 7d9_z28

Just do it!


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## basher

Don't forget that weight is cantilevered forty inches on front of the truck. Loads that far forward of the axle can have the fifty percent greater effect then loads placed center of the axle. As for the concept of using ballast to act as a counterweight now you've increased the load and moved the stress raiser to the center of the frame between the two axles or in other words you're just asking to bend it in the middle.


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## Tahoeplower

Awesome! I just got a call from a guy at a local fab/auto body shop (and snow plowing service!) that wants to trade for my 8 1/2 footer! Thanks to all the pointers you guys have given me, I found a weak point in the brackets I added. Not to mention the welder weakening the metal, I found where it could easily tear a bracket off. SO, this guy's going to trade me for his 7 1/2 footer, and make me some quality brackets! I figured out a MUCH easier way to mount it than the tube steel and brackets I was planning on using. It will still drop it 6" to be closer to stock-mounted, and eliminate the weak spot. Thruster arms will probably not be able to be mounted to the frame, as there is no real great amount of area to get them in. Do you think mounting them to the bottom of the differential mount bracket (sub-frame part of the lift) or the crossmember that the torsion bars mount to will work? Those are the only 2 places I can get a 45 degree angle in, with the lift. 

MNGLocker- I'll cut back on my WI cheese right away! That should get me under the required weight!

Basher- very good points. Thanks. Luckily I seem to have scored on the trade in more than one way! After fabbing up the drop mount and finding weak spots (thanks to your and others advice), I was starting to get pissed! So, it seems that I'll be in business for the next snowfall.

Thanks again everyone for the advice! I'll get some pics with the smaller plow once we get 'er all on. I think you guys will like my truck.


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## mnglocker

I hate being the bearer of bad news, but the 7.5 footer is only going to save you about 100lbs. And yes, you're going to need the thruster arms. I suspect the subframe should be okay to mount to, but you'll need to recheck the torque on all the fasteners on your lift kit/plowframe.


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## Tahoeplower

Hey, that's 100 lbs! If that means I don't have to give up my cheese, I'm a happy camper! And like I said, it's not going to be riding around on my truck all the time. Only when I need it. Western lists a 7 1/2 foot for my year/make, so I'm comfortable with that.


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## basher

You can try a version of the old system used by a couple manufacturers here is a link to an example

http://www.snoway.com/service/Subframes/97100236a.pdf


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## Nitro1010

*Nitro 1010*

Have you thought about installing Timbrens on your Hoe, They're a suspension enhancement system. from what I've red, these things are excellent.


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## Andy96XLT

With his lift the timbrens are not going to do anything. Also this s is a Tahoe. Timbrens will be less than a band aid fix Thumbs Up


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## dieseltech

If a ford ranger can hold a plow, a tahoe can hold one as well... Maybe you will wear out some frond end components, but in time all plow trucks will wear out front ends. Wether it be a 1 ton with a 9.5v or a half ton with a 7.5 straight blade. You will be fine with that 7.5 footer. Just make sure you have a quality fabbed mount by a pro and be on your merry little snow plowing way!


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## 2006Sierra1500

Look at my sig. All half-tons, 2 SUVs..one 99 Tahoe and an 05 Yukon. The Tahoe has a 7'6" Fisher RD. Well, SD headgear with an HD style blade. Blade is marked RD.


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