# S10 Blazer won't start.



## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

It's been going on since last year.

2000 Chevrolet Blazer (S10) 4WD 4dr 160K miles.

Alternator was replaced 5 years ago.
Battery is 1 year old when problems started, now it's 2yrs.
Last winter shop replaced the starter, ignition, and distributor.

It's a winter only vehicle so it sat all summer in the yard. Battery was on trickle charger (storage charger/float charger) since March. Started snowing now and the ******* won't start. My summer car is not snow friendly and is unsafe in the snow.

Turns over just fine, but won't get that final "kick" to start usually. I charged the battery for a few hours. It stated on it's own. Then I let it sit for a day and it won't start. Hooked up the battery charger and started it with that just fine. Ran to the post office and bank Saturday with it. Started fine first, let it idle at the bank (one block away) then shut it off at the post office and started right back up 10 minutes later. Tried to start it yesterday afternoon and nothing. Tried to charge it up today and start it, nothing. Still turns over fine. Just doesn't start.

First, the interior door molding panel broke off so it doesn't hit the dome light switch to shut it off, so I just hit the dome override button on the dash. But the post is still sticking out, since when the door shuts the molding isn't there to put the switch post thing in to shut it off. My theory was it was still drawing power, draining the battery, and not allowing enough power to start. But with it hooked to the charger that should solve that problem.

I'm going to head out and take a few pics, then upload a video somewhere to show what it's doing.

Here's when it's just charging.









Missing door panel part.









Doesn't turn the switch off for the dome light.


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## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

Door shut.









Taken after video.


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## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

Video. Click to view.


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## Nasty-Z (Nov 7, 2009)

Fuel pump ? Can you hear it prime and run for a short period after cranking? 

Common problem in these years of S10's although it is not always the pump itself but the 4 pin connector on the pump harness becomes corroded and melts due to a poor connection.

Remember , Fuel and spark , by the sounds of the video it dosen't have one or the other . Check both .

TOM


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## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

I was just thinking that too as I was ranting to my wife about it. 

Fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago.

I'll try to listen for the pump before I head out to work here.

how do I check for spark?

My mechanic is off this week since they close first week of gun deer season.


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## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

OK, I hear the pump running after it fails to start.

So it doesn't have spark.

Could be:
plugs
wires
distributor
ignition

Any other possibilities?

How to I test those to eliminate each system from being the cause?


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## Nasty-Z (Nov 7, 2009)

Have you checked for spark , or just assuming it dosent have it ?

Just because the F/P runs dose'nt mean it is supplying the correct volume of fuel. These engines run around 55-60 psi of fuel pressure at the rail.

To check for spark, pull a plug wire and place it near the exhaust manifold or front brackets , have a helper crank the engine while you observe for spark, don't hold the wire while doing so .

TOM


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## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

I'm assuming it doesn't. Didn't know how to check for spark. I'll see if I can have my 4yo son turn the key for me tomorrow before the bus gets him for school. Otherwise I'll have to wait until the weekend for my bro in law to help (I work 2nd shift).

Reason being Saturday it ran just fine. If it was getting fuel then, why isn't it getting fuel now? I don't think that failure would happen in less than 24 hours.

This crap is so frustrating. I'm going to be so glad when I can get rid of this POS. Paid $8,600 for it in 2004 and probably put another $8,600 into the damn thing.


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## Pro Lawn Care (Nov 7, 2010)

The Dash lights dim way out when you are cranking it. I would have the bat checked it may have a dead cell when it was running did you have any check engine lights?


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## ajman21 (Oct 30, 2009)

u can go to harbor freight and pick up a spark plug test light for cheep and u just pull a plug one at a time and and put the light in the boot and it will light if its getting the juice it needs. i would test the battery.


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## Tubby's Snow Plowing (Dec 13, 2009)

OK think we got it figured out. The distributor cap and rotar were fried.

On the rotar, there were two pins that align it and keep it level so it can spin around. One of those were broken off. Our theory is that when it was level as normal, the truck would start. If it got bumped around enough to get off center, the metal tab wouldn't line up in the distributor to make the connection to the spark plug wires and start. 

We replaced the cap and rotar, truck fired up and ran perfect the first try. Drove it around town for a while, made a trip to the farm, and headed into the city for a shopping trip. Started fine on all accounts.

We are going to replace the spark plugs just in case, and it's only $13 for the set so it's not a lot of money. Wires are perfect so we'll just replace everything else and I should be all set.


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