# 06 Duramax burn oil?



## turbo5560 (Apr 6, 2007)

my dad has an 06 Chevy 1 ton duramax and it was been burning oil. He asked the dealer about it today and they told him it should burn, or is normal to burn 1 quart of oil for every 100 gallons of fuel.... which is roughly 1200 miles. Sounds like a load of crap to me. But was just wondering if anyone could back them up?
if this is not normal whats the issue then?
thanks!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

You didn't happen to recently switch to synthetic oil? Some burn oil like crazy at first after switching over. Can take up to 10,000 mi for some D-max's to settle down to a reasonable oil consumption level after being switched over to synthetic.

And yes believe it or not 1qt per 100 gallons of fuel is considered "within spec" as far as GM is concerned.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

B&B;583492 said:


> You didn't happen to recently switch to synthetic oil? Some burn oil like crazy at first after switching over. Can take up to 10,000 mi for some D-max's to settle down to a reasonable oil consumption level after being switched over to synthetic.
> 
> And yes believe it or not 1qt per 100 gallons of fuel is considered "within spec" as far as GM is concerned.


We had a Ford 7.3 that burned a quart every 1k and they said it was normal.


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## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

customer at work has a ford e350 with 5.4 gas. sucks 1.5 qt every 1k or less. ford and reman motor company both say with in spec. :realmad:


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## Plowin in VT (Dec 7, 2007)

My '05 burned about 1/3 - 1/2 quart every 500 miles. Burning a little oil is annoying, but considered normal.

I had a 99 VW Jetta TDI that I got new that burned 2 quarts of oil every fill up (600 miles), and was told that VW was considered that to be within specs...BULL! I ended up returning it to VW under the lemon law for that, as well as many other problems.


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## ServiceOnSite (Nov 23, 2006)

B&B;583492 said:


> You didn't happen to recently switch to synthetic oil? Some burn oil like crazy at first after switching over. Can take up to 10,000 mi for some D-max's to settle down to a reasonable oil consumption level after being switched over to synthetic.
> 
> And yes believe it or not 1qt per 100 gallons of fuel is considered "within spec" as far as GM is concerned.


 happened to me right after i swiched to the point that the low oil light came on. ended up putting in 3 quarts. seemed to level off as far as buirning it at that rate though. but they do burn oil like all diesels do


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## IC-Smoke (Feb 15, 2008)

burning oil eh? rings bad then? none of my cummins burn oil, dads 05 doesnt, none of my kubotas burn oil (3 cyl diesel) either.

Id take the truck to the dealer and tell them to fix it or keep the truck!


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## ServiceOnSite (Nov 23, 2006)

yes your cummins dosent burn oil. must be the ONLY diesel that dosent burn oil. wonder why diesels are also nick named " oil burners" guess they must not have been talking about a cummins.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

I agree ServiceOnSite that his Cummins ''burn'' or use some oil but that's not why any diesel is referred as an'' oil burner''.It's the actual diesel fuel which is among other things----------oil.I've had 3 DM's over the years,my present LBZ will use about .5 quart in 7K miles.I think Turbos Dads truck has some issues going on--that's really way too much--1 qt. in 1200 miles.


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## JohnnyRoyale (Jun 18, 2006)

JD Dave;583493 said:


> We had a Ford 7.3 that burned a quart every 1k and they said it was normal.


No you didnt!It was a GM. LOL


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

ServiceOnSite;587973 said:


> yes your cummins dosent burn oil. must be the ONLY diesel that dosent burn oil. wonder why diesels are also nick named " oil burners" guess they must not have been talking about a cummins.


The term "oil burner"
Comes from the old school terminology.

Diesel is called diesel fuel which use to be called fuel oil. You know like what people use to heat their homes with. It's all the same stuff other than the grade #1 or #2.

That's why i call my d-cell an oil burner. Nothing to do with motor oil consumption.


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## IC-Smoke (Feb 15, 2008)

x2 snofarmer

Im sure they do burn a little oil but nothing so severe that you notice a change on the dipstick!


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## aeronutt (Sep 24, 2008)

I have an '06 d-max that's got about 11K on it. I've been running Amsoil synthetic since 7K and haven't burned a drop. 4K later the dipstick shows exactly the same as when I changed the oil. Could be the oil, but more likely not. Check out www.dieselplace.com for more tech info than you can possibly stand about d-max motors.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

welcome to plowsite.
I see you came a long way. 
Your first post sounds like an advertisement for that forum.
so we don't have to go over there and wade through countless volumes of info why don't you enlighten us.


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## bugthug (Oct 13, 2004)

I have an 04 with an lly and I beat the piss out of it. I change the oil every 5000 and at that it may need a quart. Yours must have a ford motor in it.


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## kitn1mcc (Sep 15, 2008)

my 03 180k burns 0


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

SnoFarmer;589720 said:


> welcome to plowsite.
> I see you came a long way.
> Your first post sounds like an advertisement for that forum.
> so we don't have to go over there and wade through countless volumes of info why don't you enlighten us.


Really no reason at all to act like a wiseass.All he was saying basically is that if you might want to either learn,share ideas,knowledge,or just chat at the foremost well known and respected diesel site on the planet,especially for those with Dmax's,then check it out.Matter of fact,you could find out at the DP that home heating oil is most definitely NOT diesel.When I want to know something or share knowledge/ideas about plowing,I come here---for my Dmax I go to the DP.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

tuney443;591380 said:


> Really no reason at all to act like a wiseass.All he was saying basically is that if you might want to either learn,share ideas,knowledge,or just chat at the foremost well known and respected diesel site on the planet,especially for those with Dmax's,then check it out.Matter of fact,you could find out at the DP that home heating oil is most definitely NOT diesel.When I want to know something or share knowledge/ideas about plowing,I come here---for my Dmax I go to the DP.


Your being a .......

1.. The only difference between home heating oil and the stuff you buy at the pump is the red dye they put in the home heating oil. # 1 or #2

2, #1 fuel oil is #1 fuel oil and #2 fuel oil is #2 fuel oil (aka diesel fuel) red dye or not.
You can even blend them (who knew?)
Go ask Duluth Diesel he'll tell ya.

If it's not the same stuff then what is it?.

While you there ask him( Duluth Diesel) why only some of the "Al-oil" is API certified and some is not?
All of the other oil Co's oil is API certified.
You can't convince me it's because it will cost $$ to get it certified.
Don't believe every thing you hear at that place..

don't believe me...
Fuel oil is a fraction obtained from petroleum distillation, either as a distillate or a residue. Broadly speaking, fuel oil is any liquid petroleum product that is burned in a furnace or boiler for the generation of heat or used in an engine for the generation of power, except oils having a flash point of approximately 40 ℃ (104 ℉) and oils burned in cotton or wool-wick burners. In this sense, diesel is a type of fuel oil. Fuel oil is made of long hydrocarbon chains, particularly alkanes, cycloalkanes and aromatics. The term fuel oil is also used in a stricter sense to refer only to the heaviest commercial fuel that can be obtained from crude oil, heavier than gasoline and naphtha.
Fuel oil is classified into six classes, numbered 1 through 6, according to its boiling point, composition and purpose. The boiling point, ranging from 175 to 600 °C, and carbon chain length, 20 to 70 atoms, of the fuel increases with fuel oil number. Viscosity also increases with number, and the heaviest oil has to be heated to get it to flow. Price usually decreases as the fuel number increases.

No. 1 fuel oil, No. 2 fuel oil and No. 3 fuel oil are variously referred to as distillate fuel oils, diesel fuel oils, light fuel oils, gasoil or just distillate. For example, No. 2 fuel oil, No. 2 distillate and No. 2 diesel fuel oil are almost the same thing (diesel is different in that it also has a cetane number limit which describes the ignition quality of the fuel). Distillate fuel oils are distilled from crude oil.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_oil


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

i worked in a quick oil change shop, and in a full mechanics shop, im sure B&B will conform this

almost every car/truck manufac, that i ever had to deal with, said that for a gas or diesl engine, 1 qt per 1000 miles was "normal" - im not sure if that is becasue they didnt want to deal with warrenty claims or not, but i promise you i called time and time again, and 1 per 1000 is normal

my cummis is about 1 qt every 2000, but i would be willing to bet that 25% of it is leaking , and another 25% is the turbo , more so than the engine it self

but all motors burn , a little


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## aeronutt (Sep 24, 2008)

Hey guys, no need for a urinary olympiad here. I'm happy to offer a link to more info for people who choose to click it. If you want me to copy and paste it here you'll be waiting a long time. Use it or don't use it as you see fit. Makes no difference to me.

As long as I'm posting advertisements for other sites, here's one where urinary olympiads and name-calling is not only acceptable, but highly encouraged to keep things lively: www pirate4x4.com/forum Only click the link if you have thick skin.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

You can post your link it's the same drivel.
and they will laugh you off of the board if you think fuel oil is not diesel fuel..

and your condescending attitude is just urinating on my leg and telling me it raining when we both know it's urine


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## Oshkosh (Sep 11, 2005)

*Our 06...*

Our 06 Duramax/Allison has started using more oil at 12,000 miles..We are using between 3-5 quarts between changes now(100 hours or 3,000 miles).My personal 6.2 didnt use that much between changes...
They may be great trucks for some applications but for us it has been a nightmare...
Some examples: You have to trail brake down hill to keep the hydraulics working.We have had 3 rear ends in it under warranty.We have had the battery isolator or whatever they called it under the pass step replaced under warranty.We just had the passengers door handle replaced under warranty.The defroster stinks,Doesn't clear the bottom 4" of the windshield and the wipers constantly ice up.Front end issues(Drag link) most recently.
Those are some of the highlights above...I thought we may have been special but after speaking with other towns that are running them in the area we we are not alone...
The biggest usability issue we have comes from the lack of gear ratio choices with the truck(Only 1). It will do 70mph all day long but ask it to hold back under 20mph and it is useless(Not a good hill truck)...Just not the right truck for our application.There has been talk from the selectman about trading it in next year at a big loss...


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## aeronutt (Sep 24, 2008)

Holy Buckets! 3 rear axles in 12,000 miles? How hard do you run that thing? Can't you claim Lemon Law after the same thing breaks 3 times and either get a new truck or your money back?

I have never driven the 4500/5500 class trucks, but in my 2500 the 3.73 rear axle doesn't hurt a bit for compression braking with an agressive downshift. Does the bigger truck have the little paddle shifter for manual gear selection?


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## Oshkosh (Sep 11, 2005)

*Nope...*

They keep putting rear ends in it so I guess we are not beating it...Atleast we are not asking it to do anything we don't ask of any other truck(It is supposed to be a truck afterall).This truck took the place of a Dodge one ton 4x4...
No lemon law in NH on Municipal vehicles..Live Free or Die don't ya know...
Just has a regular column shift.....I can hold the truck back in low range(transfer case) but talk about beating the crap out of the driveline...I have to trail brake running down hill to keep the rpms up enough to run the spreader.We have been told buy two plow dealers there isn't any better setup for us as far as the hydraulic pump goes.
We even went back to the dealer to see about putting new gears in(lower or higher numerically) front and rear.NOT Offered.
It would be a great truck for a landscaper,firewood delivery something like that but not for municipal use...Thats after a 160" snow season first hand experience.
This is what we are building instead.Hope it is better for us.



aeronutt;591601 said:


> Holy Buckets! 3 rear axles in 12,000 miles? How hard do you run that thing? Can't you claim Lemon Law after the same thing breaks 3 times and either get a new truck or your money back?
> 
> I have never driven the 4500/5500 class trucks, but in my 2500 the 3.73 rear axle doesn't hurt a bit for compression braking with an agressive downshift. Does the bigger truck have the little paddle shifter for manual gear selection?


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

aeronutt;589712 said:


> I have an '06 d-max that's got about 11K on it. I've been running Amsoil synthetic since 7K and haven't burned a drop. 4K later the dipstick shows exactly the same as when I changed the oil. Could be the oil, but more likely not. Check out www.dieselplace.com for more tech info than you can possibly stand about d-max motors.


Hi welcome to Plowsite....i guess?



tuney443;591380 said:


> Really no reason at all to act like a wiseass.All he was saying basically is that if you might want to either learn,share ideas,knowledge,or just chat at the foremost well known and respected diesel site on the planet,especially for those with Dmax's,then check it out.Matter of fact,you could find out at the DP that home heating oil is most definitely NOT diesel.When I want to know something or share knowledge/ideas about plowing,I come here---for my Dmax I go to the DP.


What's the deal?.....

explain youre side of the Fuel oil???? i'm not gonna troll DP just to find out that SF is right 
it seem's that SF upheld his argument. where's youres?

pj


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

OSHKOSH:

we have about 8k on our's and it's went through 3-4 outboard rearend seal's! i thought the housing was twisted or bent and i took the housing to a driveline/rearend shop and they said that their was nothing wrong with anything. just to put another seal in it and keep going 

my lil' 5500 always has a Track loader behind it so when thier is oil on what little brakes the thing has,.....you tend to rely on trailer brakes more and more

our's is exactly like youre's under 29mph it suck's.my ole man always say's "you have to drive this peice of Sh!t like a dam Detroit" (on the floor) lol

it damn sure don't need a taller rear that's for sure,.......wide open the thing only runs 72-74MPH and still manages to burn more fuel per gallon than a locomotive. haha 

something else i have a "beef" about is that they put a whoping 25Gal tank on somethng that burns 3MPG.......Did he just say 3 MPG.....

BTW: anyone want to buy a really nice gmc 5500 i have one cheap lmao

PJ


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## Oshkosh (Sep 11, 2005)

*I have to admit...*

I do have to admit I liked the looks of the GM over the Ford. When it comes down to it you may be able to purchase our truck with a factory extended Warranty next season (If that tells you anything!).
One more gripe, If you guys are looking at the Frink American gear for yours(STAY AWAY).This truck plows nothing but paved roads at approx 18 mph and we have had multiple center(swing) pin failures(1" pin). We have had the cross member under the lift piston that does nothing but lift the plow completely fail. Both of which we finally got away from the factory iron and had a welder build something stronger better and half the price of the factory replacement.Not to mention we didn't have to wait four weeks to get...Last winter four weeks was about 12 storms.
You may say we beat on our stuff, a couple of local towns have similar setups; Madison NH and Eidelwise NH both have had the same issues. Frink used to be great gear,not anymore(since Frink and Everest became one). We have Everest 11' poly p/a blades on our large trucks and the center pins in those have to be tightened at least once every storm.We have been back to our dealer a half dozen times and we finally gave up. Did I mention Everest bought out our local suppliers(Factory stores now).Bartlett NH has the same Everest Plows and they have the same center pin issues.
Our new truck is coming threw with Tenco gear...Cant be any worse.Who knows maybe it will be better. We have been impressed with the installation so far.All plumbing is stainless pipe front to back. All hoses/pigtails off the stainless are the same size so one hose fits many places(Makes repairs much easier). The Hydraulic tank has a clean out hatch,shut offs at no extra cost.Tenco had us come in and sit in the truck to fit the controls to us...Their pistons all come threw with a 3 year warranty compared to the 1 year warranty of the other guys. Did I mention they where 20% less on their bid.Which meant we where able to have on-spots and ground speed computerized spreader controls and still spend less taxpayer money. Tenco goes the extra mile to make sure the truck is the way that you want it...Many towns in our area have gotten away from the other guys and gone with Tenco the past few years (30 new trucks that I know of).
Sorry about the sales pitch but when you get treated well you like to spread the word...



powerjoke;591651 said:


> OSHKOSH:
> 
> we have about 8k on our's and it's went through 3-4 outboard rearend seal's! i thought the housing was twisted or bent and i took the housing to a driveline/rearend shop and they said that their was nothing wrong with anything. just to put another seal in it and keep going
> 
> ...


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

ServiceOnSite;587973 said:


> yes your cummins dosent burn oil. must be the ONLY diesel that dosent burn oil. wonder why diesels are also nick named " oil burners" guess they must not have been talking about a cummins.


not to start anything but my cummins doesn't burn any oil. my 01 dodge diesel dint burn anything noticable at 140k and my 07 doesn't use any at 18k thats at 4000k mile intervals


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

I have been using RP 15 40 since 2500 miles and it doesn't burn a drop, A friend of mine has a 5500 DMax and won't use anything else, although it isn't a road plow, but it's only use is for snow pushing! I guess it all depends on what your needs are!


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

SnoFarmer;591475 said:


> Your being a .......
> 
> 1.. The only difference between home heating oil and the stuff you buy at the pump is the red dye they put in the home heating oil. # 1 or #2
> 
> ...


Sorry,but being correct is not acting like a jester.Home heating fuel is definitely NOT diesel---they have similiar characteristics but after that,they are different as I already mentioned.First of all,red is always either heating fuel or un-taxed,off-road diesel.Clear is on-road diesel,period.Heating oil has much more wax,much more sulphur--in other words,less refined.Diesel,being much more refined,has a higher cetane rating,additives,and less sulphur.We are all supposed to run 15PPM ULSD,if we like it or not---our gov't at work,at least for on-road engines.Will heating oil work in a diesel??---ABSOLUTELY--no question,but sooner or later it will bite you in the ass,especially if you run it in a modern 28K PSI injectored diesel like the Dmax.If you don't get dipped by the DOT for tax evasion if you run red over the road,your engine will suffer eventually,actually sooner than later,including your particulate filter---it simply can't cope with high sulphured fuel.

Your article is correct,you copied that real nice---however---it's dated generalized material,doesn't apply to today's fuels.It doesn't mention the sophisticated technology running today with removal of the aromatics which lead to ''dry'' fuel problems.Most people think it's the removal of the sulphur that causes this,it is not.Being in the excavating biz for 34 years has taught me a thing or 2---the DP has only bolstered my knowledge.Whether you want the real skinny on this is up to you---you're not going to get it from any better source than oil/fuel engineers that peruse the DP.And this isn't my first rodeo there Snowfarmer---I most certainly don't believe everything I read,whether at the DP,here,or anywhere else.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

powerjoke;591650 said:


> Hi welcome to Plowsite....i guess?
> 
> What's the deal?.....
> 
> ...


Sorry Mr.PJ---people do have other things to do other than constantly being on PS.I was camping---that OK with you?So now check out my reply to SF.Have a good read.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

All #1 & #2 be it red or clear.(There is clear off road/ farm fuel as our fuel is not dyed red and we do not pay road tax on it...)
In MN anyway all diesel fuel, fuel oil,home heating oil is ULSF 15ppm.
#1 is #1 and #2 is #2....red, white, green or blue

the d-max is not 2010 compliant will burn all most anything even a percentage of motor oil, transmission oil, bio, 2 cycle, etc,etc so will the 20010 compliant bluetech Cummins.

wax is found in almost all oils and fuel and at the right temp can cause a proublem in any filter. 
Even if you are very careful eventually you will get a clogged filter it's the nature of the beast.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

SnoFarmer;593150 said:


> All #1 & #2 be it red or clear.(There is clear off road/ farm fuel as our fuel is not dyed red and we do not pay road tax on it...)
> In MN anyway all diesel fuel, fuel oil,home heating oil is ULSF 15ppm.
> #1 is #1 and #2 is #2....red, white, green or blue
> 
> ...


I never said I knew the nuances of the oil world in MN---just that it is fact fuel oil/home heating fuel is most definitely not diesel.You can put anything you want to burn in any diesel,so what,what does that prove?It's your dime---you will have issues though.We used to have a good ole Georgia *******{his actual words} who not only ran red to avoid taxes on the gov't fuel{also his words},but ran burnt{waste} oil with a mix{I dubbed it his magic snake oil,which he liked}of engine oil,ATF,and hydraulic oil.He kept saying his old Cummins in his Dodge actually ran better with his brew.His bud told some of us later he was constantly having injector issues and that you would never want to get behind his ride if you wanted to breathe.
As for wax crystallizing,sure,it happens---been there,done that but not for a long time now.Filter in my Dmax gets changed out every second oil change and my percentage of Schaeffers fuel treatment goes up come cold weather.If it gets colder than 0* for any lenghth of time,I'll mix in some kerosene.


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

Being good friends with a fuel dealer I can tell you that his heating oil and diesel fuel come off the same truck. He adds the red dye. Sure I'm sure some still have the fuel with higher sulpher content, but it's becoming more rare. SF is correct same stuff.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

tuney443;593286 said:


> I never said I knew the nuances of the oil world in MN---Your state will be the same way by 2010
> 
> just that it is fact fuel oil/home heating fuel is most definitely not diesel..


I'll type slow for you.
fact: H o m e.......... h e a t i n g ......... o i l ...... i s ..... t h e ....... s a m e ..... a s .... d i e s e l ....... f u e l .
because it is fuel oil which is diesel fuel.

but please enplane your position do you have any data to back up your position other than your opinion.
Even my "old" data supports my position.


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## dmax08 (Aug 16, 2007)

I work on these all of the time... regaurdless of which fuel you use the oil consumtion is a non issue on what type of fuel you burn... First how much does this idle... big factor for these units. long idle could lead to fuel delution in the oil....///////// ck the turbo some of these have had seal issues... next any leaks. some have had rear main seal leak and also have seen oil coolers leaking..


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## turbo5560 (Apr 6, 2007)

getting back to how I started this thread.... It doesn't really idle that much. But i called another dealer today and they said one qt. between oil changes was normal, but not 5 qts. So they are doing a check every 1000 miles to see how much it is buring. We will see how things go from here.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

rsvees;593340 said:


> Being good friends with a fuel dealer I can tell you that his heating oil and diesel fuel come off the same truck. He adds the red dye. Sure I'm sure some still have the fuel with higher sulpher content, but it's becoming more rare. SF is correct same stuff.


That does not prove a thing what your friend is doing.And I'm not talking sulphur content here,that's actually just a regional thing.The 2 fuels are similiar but they are different.I'll find some data to prove it.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

SnoFarmer;593356 said:


> I'll type slow for you.
> fact: H o m e.......... h e a t i n g ......... o i l ...... i s ..... t h e ....... s a m e ..... a s .... d i e s e l ....... f u e l .
> because it is fuel oil which is diesel fuel.
> 
> ...


Well,actually your old data somewhat contradicts what you have been saying.Read the next to the last sentence again.Just a part of what I've been saying.I will get my own data though.


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## bribrius (May 5, 2007)

no idea on the heating oil thing but i have run out of heating oil #2 and used diesel to dump in . thought it was the same thing. heating oil i have seen clear or read. the clear looks just like the diesel. course you can dump in kerosene in which is heating oil too. no idea. that is just the crap i put in my furnace if i notice i have no #2 oil or its running low. Guess i dont really care either way but it looks the same. My opinion isnt exactly a chemist though.


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

My D Max will use a quart betwee oil changes, 10,000 mles. 
Some motors use oil some don't. It doesn't matter who makes them. My friends dodge diesel uses a quart every 5k miles He changes it at 5k so he doesn't bother adding.
I do the same just at 10k.


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

I just wanted to add one thing about the diesel/ heating oil debate. I think it's now called on road and off road fuel. The off road fuel has the higher sulfer content, not sure how high though. If I run it in my truck I can tell it smells differnt and it gets slightly better milage.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

it's still fuel oil or commonly referred to as diesel fuel same stuff.
Soon all of it will be ulsf no matter what you want to call it, dyed or not.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

SnoFarmer;594420 said:


> it's still fuel oil or commonly referred to as diesel fuel same stuff.
> Soon all of it will be ulsf no matter what you want to call it, dyed or not.


All our off-road fuel and furnace oil are the exact same thing and there is no difference between our red diesel and clear except color. So I agree with SF.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

*Heating oil not diesel*

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Our Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel No. 2 was formulated to be used by any diesel-fueled vehicle on the road today - including yours. Compared to the No. 1-D grade, our Low Sulfur Diesel No. 2 provides higher fuel economy, power, flash point, viscosity and lubricity for your vehicle. ULSD No. 2 must be used in 2007 model year and newer vehicles/engines to protect the performance of the emission controls.

Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel No. 2

Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel No. 1 is similar to the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel Fuel No. 2 except that its sulfur content is higher than 15 ppm. This diesel fuel must not be used in 2007 model year and newer vehicles/engines. Ultra Low Diesel Fuel No. 2 must be used in those vehicles/engines.

For You, Your Vehicle And The World Around You

In order for your vehicle's diesel engine to start easily, the fuel must have a sufficiently high cetane number. All of our diesel fuels meet the minimum cetane number requirement of 40 to ensure easy start-up for your vehicle. Values above this level haven't proven to significantly improve your engine's performance.

And, all of our ULSD and LSD fuels contain lubricity additives to improve protection against wear.

Our commitment to providing you with quality diesel fuel doesn't stop at the refinery. We check the fuel at key points as it is transported through the distribution system to your vehicle.

Health & Safety 
Based on available information, this product is not expected to produce adverse effects on health when used for the intended application and the recommendations provided in the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) are followed. MSDSs are available via the Internet at ExxonMobil.com. This product should not be used for purposes other than its intended use.

MAIN HAZARD: FIRE
Keep away from ignition sources.
Discharge your static electricity before fueling.
Fill portable containers on the ground.
Handle/Transport in closed or properly vented containers and systems, consistent with all applicable laws.
Harmful or fatal if swallowed.
Avoid breathing the vapors and skin contact.
Do not wash down spills with water. Prevent all spills from reaching water.

Product Properties

ULSD No. 1-D 
LSD No. 1-D 
ULSD No. 2-D 
LSD No. 2-D 
Cetane No. 40 Min. 40 Min. 40 Min. 40 Min. 
90% Distillation, ºF Min./Max. --/550 --/550 540/640 540/640 
Viscosity, cSt @ 40ºC. Min./Max. 1.3/2.4 1.3/2.4 1.9/4.1 1.9/4.1 
Sulfur, ppm 15 Max. 500 Max. 15 Max. 500 Max.. 
Copper Strip Corrosion, 3 hr @ 50ºC No. 3 Max. No. 3 Max. No. 3 Max. No. 3 Max. 
Flash Point, ºF 100 Min. 100 Min. 125 Min. 125 Min. 
Cloud Point, ºF, Summer -25 Max. -25 Max. 20 Max. 20 Max. 
Cloud Point, ºF, Winter -25 Max. -25 Max. Meets ASTM D 975 Meets ASTM D 975 
Carbon Residue (10% bottoms), Wt. % 0.15 Max. 0.15 Max. 0.35 Max. 0.35 Max. 
Ash, Wt.% 0.01 Max. 0.01 Max. 0.01 Max. 0.01 Max. 
Water & Sediment, Vol. % 0.05 Max. 0.05 Max. 0.05 Max. 0.05 Max. 
Lubricity, HFRR, microns 520 Max. 520 Max. 520 Max. 520 Max.

Specifications

Exxon Diesel Fuels meet the following industry specifications 
ULSD No. 1-D 
LSD No. 1-D 
ULSD No. 2-D 
LSD No. 2-D 
ASTM D 975 X X X X

Here's heating oil now: Search Find an MSDS

Exxon Heating Oils

Print View

Product Description Health and Safety Product Properties Specifications

Product Description 
From our refinery to your door, we've dedicated more than 125 years to bringing you high-quality heating oil.

Whether you're a distributor, or a commercial customer, you can count on us to provide quality heating oil.

Our heating oil promises to meet your energy needs as well as meet or exceed ASTM D 396 standards for fuel quality, combustion quality and corrosion resistance. And our heating oil is backed by our quality assurance program - to help minimize or eliminate contaminants and help keep heating oil equipment running trouble-free.

Health and Safety 
Based on available information, this product is not expected to produce adverse effects on health when used for the intended application and the recommendations provided in the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) are followed. MSDSs are available via the Internet at ExxonMobil.com. This product should not be used for purposes other than its intended use.

MAIN HAZARD: FIRE
Keep away from ignition sources.
Discharge your static electricity before fueling.
Fill portable containers on the ground.
Handle/Transport in closed or properly vented containers and systems, consistent with all applicable laws.
Harmful or fatal if swallowed.
Avoid breathing the vapors and skin contact.
Do not wash down spills with water. Prevent all spills from reaching water.

Product Properties

Grade 
No. 1 
No. 2 
Color Red Red 
10% Distillation, ºC, Max 215 -- 
90% Distillation, ºC Min./Max. --/288 282/338 
Viscosity, cSt @ 40ºC. Min./Max. 1.3/2.1 1.9/3.4 
Sulfur, Wt.% 0.5 Max. 0.5 Max. 
Copper Strip Corrosion, 3 hr @ 50ºC No. 3 Max. No. 3 Max. 
Flash Point, ºF 100 Min. 100 Min. 
Pour Point, ºC -18 Max. -6 Max. 
Carbon Residue (10% bottoms), Wt. % .15 Max. .35 Max. 
Water and Sediment, Vol. % 0.05 Max. 0.05 Max.

Specifications

Exxon Heating Oils meet the following industry specifications: 
No. 1 
No. 2 
ASTM D 396 X X

As I said,very similiar,but definitely different,especially cetane{heating oil doesn't even get a rating} and the ASTM #


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

lol You said I was wrong those #'s show that thay are basically the same even the home heating oil has a low Sulfur, Wt.% 0.5 Max. 0.5 Max. 

Why would they give red fuel that is meant to be burned in a furnace a Cetane No.
when all is does is aid cold start combustion in an internal combustion engine.

I bet it has a whole bunch in it..
Or I have know of a lot of engines that should not have started in the cold Mn winters...
They all did and they all had red fuel in them. None were plugged in or had starting aids like glow plugs etc, tec,

but i give you a for responding.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

LOL back to you.You just said what I've been saying--''-basically the same---''.Thankyou.I always said they were similiar,but definitely different.Sulphur shouldn't even be in the equation since all fuels,except gasoline and like products are either low or ultra-low sulphur now.5000ppm sulphur is a thing of the past.Cetane has to do with the fuel's power or BTU content than cold startability.Very important item---similiar to octane of gas.Not exactly sure what you're referring to when you say red,as both heating oil and off-road diesel is red, but why shouldn't your Mn. engines start in the cold? You're squirting lots of ether into them,now aren't you?


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