# 2003 Ram 3500 think she's getting a plow....



## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

Looking to get some opinions on plows for my truck. I have 3 commercial lots right now and have been getting calls from potential new customers commercial and residential. However my current plow truck 79 Chevy with 7.5' Meyer is not reliable if its not a plow issue it's a truck issue and I have been having to drive around my backhoe ( all 3 accounts are close enough it's not a huge deal ) to get my accounts done. I am getting a little tired of doing my lots with just a regular bucket and having it take so long so I think it's time the duality gets a plow. My question to you guys is what plow would you recommend? I always wanted a Western wideout on the truck but no way I can afford it. I like the idea of a V or adjustable wing plow but not sure if its really worth it since I'm just a small one man operation. I have looked at Sno Way and SnoDogg plows but don't know if they are as reliable or the best bang for your buck. Also thought about a used plow but after looking at the cost of truck side kits I don't know if that's the best way to go either. Sorry for the rambling but I'm just fed up with an unreliable plow truck and just don't know which way to go with a plow for my dodge. Also if it affects anything the truck is 2003 3500 cummins diesel, 6spd manual. Thanks for any advice or opinions.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Fisher, Boss, Blizzard or Western. Can't go wrong with any of em. You get what you pay for.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

2nd that. I run an 04.5 with a Cummins and a 6speed. I have a 9.2 VXT and I'm very happy. I bought a Boss because of my dealer. If he sold one of the other brands mentioned above, I'd own whichever he sold.


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## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks guys, do you think it's worth is for a V or plow with hydraulic wings VS a regular straight blade. Also I don't like being cheap but money has been tight lately and I can't really afford something like a Western wideout..... That would be nice though.


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## V_Scapes (Jan 1, 2011)

You can get alot done with a 9' straight blade western. but by the time you purchase a new straight blade, the cost probably wont be far off from a wideout. maybe you should look into the new prodigy plow from western.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

A manual shift dodge is an awesome plow truck, stone cold reliable with pushing power to spare, maybe a ten foot used blizzard is an option for you, once you use a ten foot blade you wont be going back to anything smaller


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

cl733;1719034 said:


> A manual shift dodge is an awesome plow truck, stone cold reliable with pushing power to spare, maybe a ten foot used blizzard is an option for you, once you use a ten foot blade you wont be going back to anything smaller


Unless it's a 6.7 with a G56 manual behind it. Then it could be stone cold reliable or stone cold dead in the driveway.


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## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

Ive been looking at blizzard plows, they seem like a nice plow and i have found them more pleasing price wise vs a wide out or like. Also truck is a 5.9L cummins with roughly 425-450hp to the ground so im not worried about power wesport. Do you guys think new or used would be more cost effective, i know with used i would need wiring harness and truck side and i do not know if the price of a used plow and then needed parts would be to far off from a brand new shiny plow with everything included.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Mark13;1719333 said:


> Unless it's a 6.7 with a G56 manual behind it. Then it could be stone cold reliable or stone cold dead in the driveway.


I realize a 6.7 has some issues with the dpf and related parts, we run one of them for five years now with no issues(touch wood) but its got an Allison behind it,but the G56, are there issues with this tranny, I know of it using a sealed bearing for the input shaft, I thought it might be the better between an Nv 56oo and the g56 as it has a higher torque rating , and a better reverse shift pattern,


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

cl733;1721097 said:


> I realize a 6.7 has some issues with the dpf and related parts, we run one of them for five years now with no issues(touch wood) but its got an Allison behind it,but the G56, are there issues with this tranny, I know of it using a sealed bearing for the input shaft, I thought it might be the better between an Nv 56oo and the g56 as it has a higher torque rating , and a better reverse shift pattern,


No such thing as an Allison with a 6.7. Try again.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

jhenderson9196;1721168 said:


> No such thing as an Allison with a 6.7. Try again.


I'm sure he meant aisin


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Its not my truck but im sure he said it was an Allison, its a 98 5 ton sterling, if its an aisin , then that's even better


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

jhenderson9196;1721168 said:


> No such thing as an Allison with a 6.7. Try again.





cl733;1721346 said:


> Its not my truck but im sure he said it was an Allison, its a 98 5 ton sterling, if its an aisin , then that's even better


If it's a 98 model year it's a 5.9 and most likely has an Allison if it's an automatic. I'd take an Allison over an Aisin.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

cant get anything right here, typo error it is an 2008


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

snoway with down pressure!
if it's a srw, no less than 8'. DRW, must go wider.
I have a 03 cummins crew long bed auto and just put a 29HD on it. So far it seems really nice. the DP is nice for extra scraping. Don't let anyone tell you it doesn't matter. It does.
I've been running a snoway for over 20 years on another rig. works very well.
I'm also running the 9 CU.FT. spreader and after dropping in a pallet of salt in the truck it's a tank.
Will push anything.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

DP is a very useful tool and a must if you plan on doing any loading docks. Everyone has their own preference but the Snoway brand has done me well and nearly flawless over the last five seasons. This year I have done some welding on the frame and brackets of the blade but I think most of this damage happened when plowing 10" of snow during the last arctic outbreak. Metal and welds become weaker as the temps drop, at -19°C without wind chill is when all the metal damage happened.

Love my Mega V and would not hesitate to buy another.


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## diezelfreak (Dec 29, 2013)

cl733;1721097 said:


> I realize a 6.7 has some issues with the dpf and related parts, we run one of them for five years now with no issues(touch wood) but its got an Allison behind it,but the G56, are there issues with this tranny, I know of it using a sealed bearing for the input shaft, I thought it might be the better between an Nv 56oo and the g56 as it has a higher torque rating , and a better reverse shift pattern,


From what I have heard about the G56 is that it is junk.. they have been known to blow apart just by downshifting/decelerating. .. also ya know in the days of the 12 and 24valve 2nd gen cummins the trucks with slushboxes were detuned over the 5spd nv4500. And same goes with the 3rd gen (03-05) slushomatics vs NV5600. But when they went to the g56 the table turned.... the auto vs junkbox. I currently own a 2nd gen 12valve 3500 with the nv4500 putting 510 dyno proven horse's to the ground and gross 26k here n there and call it bullet proof. I also have a 03 2500 Cummins NV5600 450 horse and I love the 6 spd..


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## diezelfreak (Dec 29, 2013)

LopatLT7495;1713671 said:


> Thanks guys, do you think it's worth is for a V or plow with hydraulic wings VS a regular straight blade. Also I don't like being cheap but money has been tight lately and I can't really afford something like a Western wideout..... That would be nice though.


im a big v plow fan. For how versatile they are. If you lived in the heavy snow belt that is what I recommend but with not knowing what your normal accumulation is in NJ its hard to say what plow to recommend.. if your low to moderate and low to mild wind a staight vlade with either side boards or wings would suite you fine. Moderate to high accumulation and mild to high wind. A v plow would be better do to busting open driveways with drift snow.


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## xjoedirt55x (Dec 11, 2009)

If money is tight, get you an ultramount straight blade setup from western to get you by for a year or two. When you have the funds, get the wideout you want and keep the straight blade for a backup or sell it to put the money towards your wideout.


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## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks again for all the help guys. I was talking to a buddy of mine and just asked if he had any plows he wanted to sell. He told me he would sell the plow he had on his 03 cummins dually.... score for me! its a 9.5' Fisher EZ-V and ill be taking the truck side mount off of the truck also. Plow, truck side, and controller for $1100.00 all i need to buy is the truck side wiring harness and of course some plow fluid and a fisher emergency repair kit to keep in my truck. I havent picked the plow up yet but i cant wait to get it and put it on my truck! I dont know about you guys but i think i got a pretty sweet deal on this setup, plow has not been beat to crap either, only slight surface rust that a wire wheel and some paint will take care of.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Sweet. Sounds like a pretty darn good deal to me. Congrats.


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## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

This may sound like a dumb question since i have a 1ton, but does anyone suggest upgrading or adding anything to the front end before installing the plow? ive had death wobble 3 times and think this time after pretty much a new front end ( all but a few parts have been replaced), this truck is still me daily ( afterwork) driver and also used to respond to fire calls and i dont want to beat my front end to death and have my truck down.


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

First, replace anything worn in your front end. Check anything and everything...
Then think about installing some Timbrens. Running a heavy plow like that will show you any weak links including the weak springs.
(run some weight in the back. it takes some bounce out of the plow.)


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## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks, ill look into timbrens and I'm going to check over the whole front end. I know I need to replace my shocks and I may look into heavier springs as well. As for ballast in the bed until I get a spreader I think I'm going to pour a concrete block on a pallet and strap that in the bed so I can unload it with my skid after the storm. Unless someone has any better ideas for ballast.


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

Springs? Yes. That would be the perfect way to do it. That's what I'm going to do in the spring (time). I'm leaning toward Dodge springs. I know mine are tired. Just note: Dodge put different springs in each different truck setups. They even put different springs on the right vs left for the fuel tank/driver. Long bed had different springs than short bed... and of course we are talking all the same engine. Different engine and there are even more springs. You may even still have the stickers on your springs that has that shows the part #s. I'm going with the heaviest ones they have.
All the aftermarket springs give you a lift. I don't want a lift. (I could live with an inch or less)
For more info you can hit cumminsforum.com on what part numbers to use.
Someone posted me part numbers they used but I can't remember the thread name. He ended up with the firmest ones Dodge used.
If you can't find them let me know. I may be able to find it...

For ballast, why not use bags of salt? That way you can use it. A pallet is 2450lbs. Makes a big difference. You could even grab a walk behind spreader. I watch guys use them and they spread 10'. There is one group that does a small local gas station in just a few minutes. It's amazing how fast they work with a walk behind. Almost makes me wonder why I spent so much on mine.
In my other smaller plow rig I used a dozen or so bags of sand from a local home improvement center for less then $40. Come spring I sell them for half price.


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## LopatLT7495 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks for the advice, im actually thinking about leveling my truck but not sure yet. I may just get the stiffest springs dodge has for now and see how that works out. As far as the ballast goes, i was thinking concrete block because the 3 accounts i have now do not want to pay for salt ( they salt the walks that they have and thats it). I do have a walk behind stainless frame spreader though. Im hoping that once i have the plow on my truck and im not just using my backhoe i can get a few more accounts and maybe be able to salt and make some additional money. I would also be interested in the part numbers for the stiffer springs?


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

gasjr4wd;1752793 said:


> Springs? Yes. That would be the perfect way to do it. That's what I'm going to do in the spring (time). I'm leaning toward Dodge springs. I know mine are tired. Just note: Dodge put different springs in each different truck setups. They even put different springs on the right vs left for the fuel tank/driver. Long bed had different springs than short bed... and of course we are talking all the same engine. Different engine and there are even more springs. You may even still have the stickers on your springs that has that shows the part #s. I'm going with the heaviest ones they have.
> All the aftermarket springs give you a lift. I don't want a lift. (I could live with an inch or less)
> For more info you can hit cumminsforum.com on what part numbers to use.
> Someone posted me part numbers they used but I can't remember the thread name. He ended up with the firmest ones Dodge used.
> ...


I would be curious to know what they used those stiff coils in too , I have an 08, its a trx/offroad I don't use it for my plow but that truck rides so rough its got to make me think they couldn't make anything much stiffer


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## rob_cook2001 (Nov 15, 2008)

Just jumping in about the g56.. everyone I know of that has had problems beats the ***** out of there trucks.. I drive a 2012 with a 67/g56. The truck outs down right at 600hp, tows heavy and sled pulls a few times a year.. no issues other than the stock clutch was toast by 5000 miles.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

rob_cook2001;1773993 said:


> Just jumping in about the g56.. everyone I know of that has had problems beats the ***** out of there trucks.. I drive a 2012 with a 67/g56. The truck outs down right at 600hp, tows heavy and sled pulls a few times a year.. no issues other than the stock clutch was toast by 5000 miles.


 Kind of on the lines of how I thought it should be too, curious , are you still using atf in the trans,


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

cl733;1755628 said:


> I would be curious to know what they used those stiff coils in too , I have an 08, its a trx/offroad I don't use it for my plow but that truck rides so rough its got to make me think they couldn't make anything much stiffer


If my search is right, they are the spring numbers that end in 988.
Look on your springs and if there is a little tag that says 988, you got them.
I'm going with them and timbrens and maybe bilstein 5100 shocks. From what I hear the springs may raise the front about an inch depending on your truck.
You could change your shocks to get a softer ride.


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## rob_cook2001 (Nov 15, 2008)

No, the atf is gone! After I switched to a dual disc clutch the trans sounded like it was going to fall out with atv.. I run Mobil synthetic 50 and it sounds a lot better.. still a bunch of gear roleover noise but not bad.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

gasjr4wd;1774451 said:


> If my search is right, they are the spring numbers that end in 988.
> Look on your springs and if there is a little tag that says 988, you got them.
> I'm going with them and timbrens and maybe bilstein 5100 shocks. From what I hear the springs may raise the front about an inch depending on your truck.
> You could change your shocks to get a softer ride.


 I was at a 4 wheel drive shop the other day , and he did recommend me using some bilstein shocks as well not sure if he meant the 5100 , but he did say bilstein though


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

rob_cook2001;1774470 said:


> No, the atf is gone! After I switched to a dual disc clutch the trans sounded like it was going to fall out with atv.. I run Mobil synthetic 50 and it sounds a lot better.. still a bunch of gear roleover noise but not bad.


 That's what I hear is the best, Ive still got two more warranty appointments, then I plan on my dpf/egr deletes, and changing out the trans oil too , at that high of hp you have obviously done some turbo ,cp3, injector, mods, what do you tune with , EFI live , H&S


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## speedy1wrc (Feb 15, 2014)

Depending on which bumper you have it may take some massaging to install the frame. The Sport bumper has wings on the brackets that will need to be ground off. I just put a Fisher on my '03 and right now am running without the bumper till this deep freeze lets up some. Make sure you get the 29500 light harness too. I bought my plow from a guy with an '06 Ram and thought I was set. Went to put it in and the bulbs are different so I had to source a new light harness. That was a pain not being able to drive it at night till I got is squared away.

With the diesel the directions to mount the frame are brief. But you will need to pry the bottom of the intercooler out to be able to get the bumper bolts out. No biggie as long as you're aware. Again, depending on which bumper you have, you may have to do some cutting for clearance..

Otherwise the truck should handle it fine. I have a 2500 5.9 and it's great. I have about 400lbs of Speedy Dry in the back in plastic bas which I will use at the shop come Spring. Works fine. I bought the truck with the plow package so it has the heavy springs and there is barely any drop when I pick the plow up.


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## rob_cook2001 (Nov 15, 2008)

I am running h&s as there is no efi for the 2010 and newer trucks.. will be having it custom tuned with mcc in the next few weeks.... It has 60hp nozzles, studs, moded cp3 and a set of compounds using the stock turbo with an s480.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

rob_cook2001;1774508 said:


> I am running h&s as there is no efi for the 2010 and newer trucks.. will be having it custom tuned with mcc in the next few weeks.... It has 60hp nozzles, studs, moded cp3 and a set of compounds using the stock turbo with an s480.


 Nice , I have an H&S sitting here waiting for mine too, but im just thinking of selling it and jumping on the EFI live train


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

cl733;1774478 said:


> I was at a 4 wheel drive shop the other day , and he did recommend me using some bilstein shocks as well not sure if he meant the 5100 , but he did say bilstein though


I just got a quote for the springs from the dealer... $166 each. The 5100's ($78) are the better of the two (other is 4600) and only $8 more. google them and you will see. best $ I see is 4wheelparts.com
I'll add all this to the ball joints I need... nothing like sinking _another_ $1500 in the front end. Oh, and brakes. I've got 180,XXX on it so I guess it's not bad. Not the factory ball joints, does have new shocks, springs seem tired. Might as well do Timbrens while I'm in there.
It's only money.
:crying:


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

gasjr4wd;1774639 said:


> I just got a quote for the springs from the dealer... $166 each. The 5100's ($78) are the better of the two (other is 4600) and only $8 more. google them and you will see. best $ I see is 4wheelparts.com
> I'll add all this to the ball joints I need... nothing like sinking _another_ $1500 in the front end. Oh, and brakes. I've got 180,XXX on it so I guess it's not bad. Not the factory ball joints, does have new shocks, springs seem tired. Might as well do Timbrens while I'm in there.
> It's only money.
> :crying:


 ill go look them up , he quoted me 135$ each but im not sure even which ones they were


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