# Preparing truck for plowing



## DBCC186 (Sep 8, 2009)

I am new to this thread and I am happy I found it. I have read a lot of posts and I have learned a lot of things. I have a 2002 Silverado 1500 ext.cab 4x4 with 5.3 motor, Sears battery with 675 cold cranking amps and a 105 amp alternator RPO code K68. I have put some money down on a Fisher HT Series plow with a 7.6 foot blade. After reading numerous posts I think it would be wise to do a few things.

1) Add Timbrens to front suspension
2) Add a second battery. Here is where I have a couple of questions:
A) Where can I get the tray and necessary hardware? I e-mailed GMparts direct with my VIN# and I was told there was nothing available with VIN I gave them.
If I understand correctly the wiring will be as follows after I locate a tray

Positive cable from drivers side battery to second battery
Wire from alternator to positive of second battery
Negative cable from second battery to first battery to ground block and another to frame

Can I mount negative cable from second battery to ground from first battery or should I choose another location on block?

Instead of second battery could I just a battery with higher amps or a higher amp alternator? My truck has factory tow package so I think it may be capable with higher amp battery. I appreciate any and all advice. Thanks and sorry post is long.


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## ss502gmc (Sep 12, 2008)

I would try and go with a 135 amp alt if you can and 2 batterys, you should be able to get a tray that would fit a 2500 and install it fine in ur 1500


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If they demand a VIN simply give them one from a Diesel equipped 2500/3500 as they have the aux battery and the trays are all the same across the truck lines. I have all the p/n somewhere for the tray but they currently elude me. 

Your current 105 AMP alt is capable but don't expect it to live forever working at it's maximum output to keep one or both batteries charged. 

More AMP's is always better as well as upgrading the cables and charging wire to a larger size. Same with ground connections, the more the better.


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## DBCC186 (Sep 8, 2009)

Great advice, thanks and keep it coming. B&B if you happen to come across those part numbers for the tray that would be great.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

DBCC186;804632 said:


> Great advice, thanks and keep it coming. B&B if you happen to come across those part numbers for the tray that would be great.


Seems the part numbers have been superseded. Current ones for the '99-'07 classic body are....

Aux battery tray GM p/n: 15246516
Battery hold down GM p/n: 14005061


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## ss502gmc (Sep 12, 2008)

the new # for the tray for a 02 2500 # 15705102 and battery hold down #356668


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

ss502gmc;804696 said:


> the new # for the tray for a 02 2500 # 15705102 and battery hold down #356668


Those were the old numbers.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

No need to run a wire from the alternator to the 2nd battery-just run positive from battery 1 to positive in battery 2 and negative from battery 2 to negative of battery 1 or ground.


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## DBCC186 (Sep 8, 2009)

Just got some current part#s from GMPartsdirect:

Tray part#15705102 is replaced by part#15246518
Battery hold down clamp part#356668 is replaced with part#14005061
Screw part#11509853 stays same but they say must be bought in package of 10


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## MeeksCo (Oct 31, 2008)

First, get a battery that has more CCA. 
Purchase a battery that comes with a free-replacement warranty. 
Grind out around the grounds on certain areas so that there are good connections to pure steel. 
*Use dielectric grease around all of your terminals/connections (Especially the grounds)*


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## DBCC186 (Sep 8, 2009)

cwpm410;806637 said:


> First, get a battery that has more CCA.
> Purchase a battery that comes with a free-replacement warranty.
> Grind out around the grounds on certain areas so that there are good connections to pure steel.
> *Use dielectric grease around all of your terminals/connections (Especially the grounds)*


Thats a great idea to grind out the grounds and to use the dielectric grease. Thanks.


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## JCI Trans (Oct 21, 2008)

I got my tray, hold down and hold down screw on 1stchevyparts.com a couple weeks ago. Just type the p/n#'s into the search and they come right up. If i remember correctly it was about $29 for everything


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## AiRhed (Dec 27, 2007)

Just a question, with your set up, why not save yourself all that trouble and just run ONE big odyssey battery that has more CCA's than two standard equipment batteries combined? Staying with a single battery in my opinion will be much more reliable. Since in stock form, your truck doesn't have any of the isolator equipment needed to properly maintain/utilize dual batteries. With my Odyssey, if I wanted to, I could run my diesel off of ONE battery just fine. I think a single odyssey combined with a high output alternator is your best bet. Keep it simple and unlettered under that hood.


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## DBCC186 (Sep 8, 2009)

JCI Trans;806839 said:


> I got my tray, hold down and hold down screw on 1stchevyparts.com a couple weeks ago. Just type the p/n#'s into the search and they come right up. If i remember correctly it was about $29 for everything


Does the tray come with hardware to bolt it to top of wheel well under hood?

/


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## AiRhed (Dec 27, 2007)

Deaf ears eh?


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## DBCC186 (Sep 8, 2009)

AiRhed;807166 said:


> Deaf ears eh?


No, not deaf ears. Factory plow preps on GM come with dual batterys. My objective, if you read the whole thread is to run dual batterys. I'm thinking the enginers at GM run their plow preps this way and the enginers at Dodge set it up their way on your Dodge because they felt it was the best way to do it for their particular vehicle. Based on my reasearch on this thread GM guys run their trucks this way when plowing to have it as close as possible to factory. Also, why would GM make a second battery tray setup if they did not think it was the right way to do it? Just because it works well on your Dodge does not mean it was meant to work the same way on a GM product.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Is one of those odyssey batteries the size you are talking about really 50 pounds? Is the battery tray that originally had a 20-25 pound battery really made for doubling the weight with no concerns??:salute: And even with one of those batteries, the CCA might be the same, but the AH are still less than two batteries wired in parallel. The isolation equipment is generally used on an rv or boat that you want to use one deep cycle battery and another engine start battery. (and you only have one alternator) 
In a plow truck, having capacity and CCA are important, and the engine is generally running when the batteries are being discharged (so no real reason for battery isolation). 

The $300 price tag would be a good reason to go with 2 batteries as well payup


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## JCI Trans (Oct 21, 2008)

The new bracket came with no hardware, as it reuses all stock hardware. It replaces the fender support on the passengers side, and uses all that brackets existing hardware. Its probably a 15 minute job to do the swap.


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## JCI Trans (Oct 21, 2008)

On your thought of installing Timbrens, I just finished installing the ones i got from Jim at ESI Trucks. I had to air chisel the factory bump stops off but it wasnt that bad. I took it for a test drive and it feels pretty stock...no complaints. I'll report back when i hook up the plow.


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## Gear_Head (Apr 29, 2009)

JCI Trans;807323 said:


> On your thought of installing Timbrens, I just finished installing the ones i got from Jim at ESI Trucks. I had to air chisel the factory bump stops off but it wasnt that bad. I took it for a test drive and it feels pretty stock...no complaints. I'll report back when i hook up the plow.


do you have a half ton?


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## JCI Trans (Oct 21, 2008)

i have a 3/4....the truck thats in my sig and avatar


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