# Meyer E47 Pump Question



## Mower For Less (Nov 2, 2004)

Hi All,

Been reading on this site and found alot of valuable information. This is my first year plowing, and I bought a used 91 GMC K1500, with a 7.5 Meyers plow, and a E47 pump. I rebuilt the whole pump over the summer, and refurbished just about everything on the plow, including new hoses, new angling cylinders, welding all small cracks, new paint, etc etc.. 

My question is this, now that I have everything back together, it all seems to work fine, but with one small glitch. It goes up,down, left and right without any problems, but when I tap it just to the right (just breifly tap the switch) it goes left. If I hold the switch, it will go right like it should. I dont have this problem if I just tap it to the left. Is this how the valving works, or is there a problem that I need to look into???

Thanks In Advance!

Kevin


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## jonw440 (Dec 26, 2002)

I "Think" it still has air in the system. Work it left to right a few times, then let it set for a few hours. This will help move the air back up to the purge relief. It will go away after a while.


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## PLOWMAN45 (Jul 2, 2003)

im having mine worked on friggin drain plug inside threads stripped having mine sent out its my only problem in five years


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## Mower For Less (Nov 2, 2004)

Anybody else have another suggestion or comment? I am pretty sure I bled the system well. I cycled it about 10 times each left & right, then I unhooked the hoses, manually put pressure on the plow and relieved the pressure out of the angling cylinders by pressing the check valve in the quick couple fitting. I did this until there appeared to be no more air comming out of the check valve (also could not hardly move the plow once the air was eliminated) Then I hooked it back up to the pump, and gave it another 10 cycles left and right. It appears to move quickly, without hesitation, in all directions. Just wondering if there were any more suggestions, or should I keep chasing down some possible small remaining air in the system?

Thanks,
Kevin


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## Garagekeeper (Jan 18, 2002)

Kevin you need to check the switch or the angling switch.
The plow will angle left if just the motor runs and the "C" coil doesn't see power.
That is some what common as that is a double throw double pole switch that does two functions when you move it.
 John..........................


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## DJ Contracting (Dec 16, 2003)

*E47 Pump*

I found that if the solenoid for the c-coil goes bad due to hydraulic pressure spike when you go to take the coil off and you have to pry the coil off then the solenoid has expanded this problem will cause the blade to go to the left.


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## Mower For Less (Nov 2, 2004)

Yes, I did have to pry the C coil off when I rebuilt the pump. Nothing to bad, just needed something to get it started then it pulled right off. I was able to re-install it without anything more than slipping it on. I just figured it was crudded up and didnt think to much more about it. Like I said, it will work properly if I hold the switch for anything longer than just a tap, but do you think that The C coil or solenoid will need replacing, or should I just keep an eye on it? Or could it just be slow to energize, and the motor pumps just before the C coil energizes? Is there a way to check this?

Sorry for the newbie questions, I am pretty good with electrical and hydraulics, just never worked on plow pumps.

Thanks,
Kevin


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## Garagekeeper (Jan 18, 2002)

You can check the coil for proper voltage by having someone work the switch while you have the voltmeter connected to the the connector on the end of the harness, you should have "battery" voltage at that connection at that time.
You would also be able see if there is a delay in it getting power too.
I have had plows lose one funtion because of low voltage to the coil do to poor connection at where the power lead for the switches connects to the ign wire or fuse box.
This is what I would check before changing valves and or coils with the problem you have discribed.
 John.......................


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

You can also check the coils resistance with a ohm meter to verify if it is good. It should be between 6 to 8 ohms generally (some brands may be a little below or above this range but this is pretty close)


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## DJ Contracting (Dec 16, 2003)

Hey if the coil slides on and off the the solenoid should be ok the funny thing is after i replied to this post i checked out my three trucks and found that my myers plow is stuck all the way to the left now i changed the c-coil and solenoid last year now it looks like i'm going to have to look at the couplers. poss. dirty or not moving the ball in the hose enough.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

DJ Contracting said:


> Hey if the coil slides on and off the the solenoid should be ok the funny thing is after i replied to this post i checked out my three trucks and found that my myers plow is stuck all the way to the left now i changed the c-coil and solenoid last year now it looks like i'm going to have to look at the couplers. poss. dirty or not moving the ball in the hose enough.


On that model pump the coil slide off of the armature that the spool puck is inside of so even if the coil slides freely off, that is not indication of whether spool "puck" is working freely inside the screw in armature core from what I can see of the parts diagram here.


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## jpunlimited (Aug 12, 2004)

*me too*

I have abrand new never plowed meyer. if you tap the joy stick right it goes left. but if you push it a little more it goes right as it should it must not be making contact if you just tap it. I ran it threw full cycles and it has not changed.


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## lawnmedic (Jan 9, 2004)

On Meyer E47 and E60 pumps power supplied to motor only will angle pump left. C valve must be energized to angle right. If the cross over relief valve is not working, the top of the C cartridge will become swelled from excess pressure. 

If your C valve top is swollen then it needs to be replaced, but not until the cross over is repaired. If the cross over is operating correctly, and the plow is pushed against an immobile object the plow will release angle which will keep pump components from being damaged....


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## Larry45 (Jan 17, 2009)

*Meyer E47 Slow Raising/Sometimes Won't Raise*

I have a Meyer E47 snowplow and when I'm out doing some plowing, now and then the plow sometimes wont raise, if you keep trying eventually it will work and go up. The worst is on really cold days (-20 for example) then it wont raise at all. You can hear the plow motor go when you push the switch to raise it, but it doesn't go up. What may be the problem? Is it the pump? Will the fluid in it cause this if it is old or maybe dirty (little bit of moisture/water in it). I bought the plow used so I am not really sure when the fluid was changed. It use to work fine (but I always thought it was a little slow raising). The plow is probably about 15 years old. Thanks in advance for any help I can get on this issue.


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## atrak99 (Sep 13, 2008)

Larry, 
Had same prob. Water may be in your system and freezing. You need to do a flush and fill every season. While you're at it- replace your seals. You'll need:
-center seal kit -$20
-4 or 5 quarts of hydro oil -$8/ea
-male and female hose couplers $11
-kerosene -$3/gal
-a few coffee can sized containers

If it's still acting up, Meyer's online manual was a WORLD of help in fixing my plow and understanding its operation.
If you're gonna pull valves, be careful not to lop off any stems that hold on the solenoids. I did that. PB em first, then you can remove and disassemble valves, look for stuck points and clean em off.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Mower For Less;162587 said:


> It goes up,down, left and right without any problems, but when I tap it just to the right (just briefly tap the switch) it goes left. If I hold the switch, it will go right like it should. I dont have this problem if I just tap it to the left. Is this how the valving works, or is there a problem that I need to look into???
> 
> Thanks In Advance!
> 
> Kevin


Thats the normal characteristics of a Meyer Kevin as left is the default (by way of the valving).

Also, once you actually use it you'll also notice that the blade will slowly work its way to the left the more time you raise it. Thats also normal for a Meyer when using the toggle or joystick controls due to the same default left scenario in the valving. Both of these condtions were resolved with the introduction of the hand help touch pad controllers years ago.

Botton line, it's working normal and you have no issue. :salute:


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