# Toro S-620



## mnglocker

Has anyone got any experience with a Toro S-620? I'm thinking about grabbing up a used one to toss in the back of my plow truck for a sidewalk "time-saver"...


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## leon

I have my third Toro S-200 and a 07-08 Toro Snow Pup Power Curve 620- worth every penny.

They get heavy after along time of pushing and lifting but they do a huge amount of work. The 620 is great for the heavy snows, just a bite at a time or slowly for a full cut, and the power paddle still clears all the way to the ground when you want scrape the ground with it, and it walks right along with you.

Drain the fuel out and blow the fuel lines out(from carburator to the fuel tank) with an air compressor blow gun every year and you will have no problems.

Check to make sure it has a fuel filter if it is an older one-if not buy one with the clear filter and fine mesh for it.

leon


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## mnglocker

Thanks for the reply Leon. Hope you have a Merry Christmas. :waving:


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## Dodge318

I run I whole business on them. They are in a word, Bulletproof. They are old, But parts are still around.

I own about 10 of them. I'm a small engine mechanic and when customers don't want to put any money into them I get them for free, so it's a great option for me. They will handle about 8" of snow in one pass and more if you go "chunk by chunk".

Also they can be had on craigslist in running condition for less than $100. Any Toro dealer will have belts, scrapers, replacement vains, and carb kits. You can also adjust the carb without removing the cover which is nice out in the snow. They clean as well as any other Toro single stage, the just don't throw the snow quite as far. They were by far Toro's best selling snowthrower ever and I still see many, many of them that are still running great.

One other thing. They are a 32:1 ratio. A lot of guys run them at 100:1 with opti 2 cycle oil or Amsoil 2 stroke (to keep the smoke down) and say they are okay, But I would not personally. I just use regular Toro 2 cycle and mix at 32:1.

They sometimes can be a little fussy on the first start of the season especially if not drained out or run out at the end of the season. Toro had a TSB on this to get them running without a whole carb overhaul that works about 90% of the time. You take out the high idle adjustment screw (the one farthest to the right) and using a carb cleaner with straw attached (I perfer seafoam deep creep) hold tight to the hole and spray in a short burst. There is a check ball in there that gets effectively glued in the closed position due to stale fuel. Sometimes you can actually hear it free it self and then try and start the machine. It will be hard to start, but usually will. Run machine 10 minutes minimum and the gas moving through will finish the cleaning process. Then SLOWLY tilt the machine back onto it's handle and allow to run two or three minutes like that. It may kill as you tilt it back, no big deal just restart. It should run like a new machine after that. The tilting froces the machine to burn all the accumulated excess oil and gunk collected in the carb.


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## kfx400

Dodge318;689361 said:


> I run I whole business on them. They are in a word, Bulletproof. They are old, But parts are still around.
> 
> I own about 10 of them. I'm a small engine mechanic and when customers don't want to put any money into them I get them for free, so it's a great option for me. They will handle about 8" of snow in one pass and more if you go "chunk by chunk".
> 
> Also they can be had on craigslist in running condition for less than $100. Any Toro dealer will have belts, scrapers, replacement vains, and carb kits. You can also adjust the carb without removing the cover which is nice out in the snow. They clean as well as any other Toro single stage, the just don't throw the snow quite as far. They were by far Toro's best selling snowthrower ever and I still see many, many of them that are still running great.
> 
> One other thing. They are a 32:1 ratio. A lot of guys run them at 100:1 with opti 2 cycle oil or Amsoil 2 stroke (to keep the smoke down) and say they are okay, But I would not personally. I just use regular Toro 2 cycle and mix at 32:1.
> 
> They sometimes can be a little fussy on the first start of the season especially if not drained out or run out at the end of the season. Toro had a TSB on this to get them running without a whole carb overhaul that works about 90% of the time. You take out the high idle adjustment screw (the one farthest to the right) and using a carb cleaner with straw attached (I perfer seafoam deep creep) hold tight to the hole and spray in a short burst. There is a check ball in there that gets effectively glued in the closed position due to stale fuel. Sometimes you can actually hear it free it self and then try and start the machine. It will be hard to start, but usually will. Run machine 10 minutes minimum and the gas moving through will finish the cleaning process. Then SLOWLY tilt the machine back onto it's handle and allow to run two or three minutes like that. It may kill as you tilt it back, no big deal just restart. It should run like a new machine after that. The tilting froces the machine to burn all the accumulated excess oil and gunk collected in the carb.


Newbie here.

Model # 38162
SN 4043284
I have installed these part #'s Tecumseh 630978,630932a which I purchased from my local dealer and it will try to start and run but won't.
I sprayed Gumout carb cleaner with the straw attached just like you said and installed new parts and it won't run. I have a new plug gapped a 0.30 and fresh fuel at 32:1 using yamalube 2R which is what I run in my Yamaha Banshee!
I am posting link of a picture of the carb that is installed on this machine.(to the best of my knowledge).
My ? is which screw is the high speed and which is the low speed and how many turns out from bottomed out do they need to be set at?:salute: After viewing the link, Is #10 the idle or high speed fuel screw? I am thinking its the idle screw! Help me please.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=...SN+4000001-4999999)&dn=3312_228-2_228005-0005


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## leon

*toro*



kfx400;741198 said:


> Newbie here.
> 
> Model # 38162
> SN 4043284
> I have installed these part #'s Tecumseh 630978,630932a which I purchased from my local dealer and it will try to start and run but won't.
> I sprayed Gumout carb cleaner with the straw attached just like you said and installed new parts and it won't run. I have a new plug gapped a 0.30 and fresh fuel at 32:1 using yamalube 2R which is what I run in my Yamaha Banshee!
> I am posting link of a picture of the carb that is installed on this machine.(to the best of my knowledge).
> My ? is which screw is the high speed and which is the low speed and how many turns out from bottomed out do they need to be set at?:salute: After viewing the link, Is #10 the idle or high speed fuel screw? I am thinking its the idle screw! Help me please.
> 
> http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=...uld pop off and irt will rip up the driveway.


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