# Alternator upgrade



## MarkEagleUSA (Nov 27, 2005)

I'm thinking about upgrading to a 200 or 250 amp alternator. I've read the dual battery thread and searched here and at a few other forums. What I can't find is any definitive advice on where to find the alternator or what brand/mfg to buy. Also, I've read about needing connector upgrades but again can't find anything definitive.

Can anyone provide useful information and/or links to what is required?


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## swtiih (Nov 30, 2008)

MarkEagleUSA;1297622 said:


> I'm thinking about upgrading to a 200 or 250 amp alternator. I've read the dual battery thread and searched here and at a few other forums. What I can't find is any definitive advice on where to find the alternator or what brand/mfg to buy. Also, I've read about needing connector upgrades but again can't find anything definitive.
> 
> Can anyone provide useful information and/or links to what is required?


Search the thread a little deeper. This has been discussed many times on the site. Here is one that took me 10 seconds to find. type alternator in the serach filed and look for the thread bigger alternator


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## Jon Geer (Jan 21, 2002)

Get this alternator from NAPA. Very nice performer.

Part: BSH AL8706HO


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## pooleo8 (Nov 8, 2009)

You got any local alternator shops? We have one here. They charge $60 to install a 200amp stator in your factory alt. Might be a good cheap option..?


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Just as important as upgrading the alternator is upgrading the wiring. Search for big three


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## MarkEagleUSA (Nov 27, 2005)

swtiih;1297659 said:


> Here is one that took me 10 seconds to find. type alternator in the serach filed and look for the thread bigger alternator


I saw that when I searched but since it's about Ford's it didn't help me any in terms of actual alternators.



Jon Geer;1297684 said:


> Get this alternator from NAPA. Very nice performer.
> 
> Part: BSH AL8706HO


Wow, that's pricey compared to other's I've seen.



pooleo8;1297696 said:


> You got any local alternator shops? We have one here. They charge $60 to install a 200amp stator in your factory alt. Might be a good cheap option..?


Except everything seems to indicate that high output in a small case is asking for trouble due to excessive heat, etc.



2COR517;1297699 said:


> Just as important as upgrading the alternator is upgrading the wiring. Search for big three


Saw the "Big 3" info long ago. I haven't gotten around to it yet but might try to get it done this weekend if I can find all the parts locally.

What I'm really looking for is information regarding the actual alternator I should be looking for. I see they come in different cases and I haven't got a clue what will be a direct bolt-in versus one that needs special/different brackets, wiring, etc. According to my RPO's I have the standard 100 amp alternator which I believe is a "small case" unit.


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## swtiih (Nov 30, 2008)

I would agree you want a case that matches the output.
Alternator is very important when your out plowing for many hours don't go the cheap route.


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## hosenfeffer (Nov 23, 2008)

Went with the bosch 200 amp from my local napa guy. Direct fit Did have a bearing whine in 6 months but with 1 year warranty replaced no charge. sorry do not have part # on hand


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## purpleranger519 (Jan 1, 2006)

These guys have direct fit high output alternators.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/category/high-output-alternators.html


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## cjwoz (Jan 7, 2008)

I got a 2003 2500hd with a diesel and I put a 200 amp in it and I never changed any of the wiring.  It was one of the best moves for the truck that I ever did.


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## Motorman 007 (Jan 11, 2005)

*DB Alternators*

I bought my HO alternator at DB after many recommendations from members of this forum. Contrary to what some will tell you, it makes no sense to change the alternator without changing the alternator output wire. The 10-12 gauge factory wire will limit the output when it is most needed. I purchased a 4 gauge battery cable at NAPA of the proper length. It works great and was well worth the $$$. No more dimming lights.

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/


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## captadamnj (Jan 20, 2004)

I installed the Pro series model found here -
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/ad244.html

Wanted the workhorse but they were out of stock at the time and made me a deal on the Pro so I said why not.

Upgraded the wire to 4 guage with an inline fuse. Had to grind down the mounts just a bit to make a nice fit. I could have pounded it in I'm sure, but wanted easy in / out in case of emergency replacement.


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## crete5245 (Aug 24, 2006)

I agree with the guys on here, upgrade your wiring. I have a 4 gage from the alt to the battery. I do not agree to go to a alt that puts out 200+ amps, generates to much heat. I would go with the daul battery set up. Like some have posted look up that upgrade, I personally have dual batteries, with 2 ot wire running from each of the batteries and down to the starter, have 1 ot wire running to the solnoid and to the pump. Only running a 85 amp alt. Wiring makes all the difference in the world.I do put my truck on a trickle charger between use and make sure that the batteries are fully charged before a storm. It is just my plow truck I do not drive the truck everyday so it has a chance to get charged.


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## captadamnj (Jan 20, 2004)

More important than the high output current for an alternator is the output at idle or slightly above, because that is where we need the current. I did not buy the H.O. alternator for the top of its charging curve, but rather for its low RPM output.


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## BlizzardBeater (Aug 29, 2010)

captadamnj;1314675 said:


> More important than the high output current for an alternator is the output at idle or slightly above, because that is where we need the current. I did not buy the H.O. alternator for the top of its charging curve, but rather for its low RPM output.


Thats the key right there, high output at low rpm's. Dont be concerned with total ouput or high output alternators. A 250 amp unit is now good to you if it's only pushing 30 amps at idle. An extreme case I know but it helps to illustrate the problem. If you're going to spend the money on a upgraded alternator, find a duty built unit that can provide you with a output curve chart. Dont even bother wasting your time with an alternator if your wiring is factory. I promise you that the factory wiring cant even efficiently handle the output of the factory alternator.


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## purpleranger519 (Jan 1, 2006)

Totally agree with the last 2 posts. Its all about the low RPM output.


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## pfbrussels (Dec 21, 2010)

purpleranger519;1304988 said:


> These guys have direct fit high output alternators.
> 
> https://www.dcpowerinc.com/category/high-output-alternators.html


Ranger, how was your experience with these guys?


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## larboc (Dec 8, 2009)

Have you actually looked at the output curves? Traditionally a higher max output alternator will give up low RPM amps. Maybe that has changed?


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## MarkEagleUSA (Nov 27, 2005)

MarkEagleUSA;1297622 said:


> I'm thinking about upgrading to a 200 or 250 amp alternator.


Time to take action. As I was plowing this weekend my voltmeter would drop to 9-10 volts everytime I operated the plow and would take several seconds at increased RPM's to recover. I'm pretty certain the original alternator is still in the truck and at 160,000 miles might be getting tired. For the record the battery checks out OK, I'm running fresh fluid in the pump and did the "big-3" upgrade in the fall. The only thing I haven't checked is the current draw of the pump motor (no ammeter available), but even without the plow, just using headlights, wipers and heater seems to pull the voltage down at idle.

My truck has RPO code K60 - GENERATOR,100 AMP and I'm looking at this 250-amp unit from DB Electrical. They list it as an AD-244 and I've been told mine is an AD-230.

As pictured, it looks like the one I currently have (same style case) but I think it's physically a little larger. What I would like to know is if this alternator will drop right in without any modification (brackets, etc)?


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## purpleranger519 (Jan 1, 2006)

MarkEagleUSA;1427685 said:


> Time to take action. As I was plowing this weekend my voltmeter would drop to 9-10 volts everytime I operated the plow and would take several seconds at increased RPM's to recover. I'm pretty certain the original alternator is still in the truck and at 160,000 miles might be getting tired. For the record the battery checks out OK, I'm running fresh fluid in the pump and did the "big-3" upgrade in the fall. The only thing I haven't checked is the current draw of the pump motor (no ammeter available), but even without the plow, just using headlights, wipers and heater seems to pull the voltage down at idle.
> 
> My truck has RPO code K60 - GENERATOR,100 AMP and I'm looking at this 250-amp unit from DB Electrical. They list it as an AD-244 and I've been told mine is an AD-230.
> 
> As pictured, it looks like the one I currently have (same style case) but I think it's physically a little larger. What I would like to know is if this alternator will drop right in without any modification (brackets, etc)?


If its a 96-2000 CK Chevy it should.


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## dieseld (Dec 30, 2005)

Subscribing for sure.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

MarkEagleUSA;1427685 said:


> My truck has RPO code K60 - GENERATOR,100 AMP and I'm looking at this 250-amp unit from DB Electrical. They list it as an AD-244 and I've been told mine is an AD-230.
> 
> As pictured, it looks like the one I currently have (same style case) but I think it's physically a little larger. What I would like to know is if this alternator will drop right in without any modification (brackets, etc)?


An AD-244 will go in place of an AD-230. Requires a slightly longer belt (+1") in most cases if it's the correct length to begin with but otherwise you're good to go.


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

I know it an older thread. If you have a 100/105 amp alt. You can get a late 90's suburban fed fuel its a 145 amp alt. If the clock. Is
Different that is easy changed. And you will definitely need a bigger belt 1˝ if you keep the old belt. The tension pulley is close to
Heater hose. Look at the two alterner side by side the 100 amp is tiny. 

I love my Z


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## vegaman04 (Dec 12, 2007)

On the topic of upgrading, how much is too much for amperage? 200, 240, 250, 260, 275, and 350.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

No such thing as too much supply


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

At what point does the cost of an ultra-heavy-duty alternator approach the cost of dual average-duty alternators? You could get the same amperage with redundancy/fault-tolerance and when one fails you replace it with inexpensive off-the-shelf parts at whichever store is open...and you probably get more low-RPM amperage.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Nov 27, 2005)

2COR517;1434119 said:


> No such thing as too much supply


While I would normally agree with this...



theholycow;1434135 said:


> get more low-RPM amperage.


Isn't this what we need most - low RPM output? If I can get 100-125 amps at idle, shouldn't that go a long way in letting the charging system keep up with the demands of an electric plow? Higher overall amperage only allows the batteries to recharge faster, correct? There's no other advantage is there?


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## purpleranger519 (Jan 1, 2006)

An alternative to the DC alternators and probably the better of the two as far as low-rpm out put would be the mean green alternators. http://shop.mean-green.com/main.sc


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## oneoldsap (Dec 26, 2011)

theholycow;1434135 said:


> At what point does the cost of an ultra-heavy-duty alternator approach the cost of dual average-duty alternators? You could get the same amperage with redundancy/fault-tolerance and when one fails you replace it with inexpensive off-the-shelf parts at whichever store is open...and you probably get more low-RPM amperage.


 I'd really like to see how and where you are going to mount that second alternator . The AD-244 puts out 100 amps at idle . I run a CS-244 140 amp and it's plenty ! I can't begin to imagine how you could run 2 alternators in a GM truck , or why ! They don't fail very often , so there's really no need for redunduncy .


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

oneoldsap;1439702 said:


> I'd really like to see how and where you are going to mount that second alternator .


These guys seem to have it figured out:
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/gm-vortec-dual-alternator-bracket.html



> The AD-244 puts out 100 amps at idle . I run a CS-244 140 amp and it's plenty ! I can't begin to imagine how you could run 2 alternators in a GM truck , or why !


I was just running with this guy's post:


vegaman04;1434073 said:


> On the topic of upgrading, how much is too much for amperage? 200, 240, 250, 260, 275, and 350.


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## oneoldsap (Dec 26, 2011)

Yep looks like they do . I still don't see the advantage though , especially with dual batteries !


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## Btimmonn (Apr 2, 2019)

I have a 98’ Chevy K1500 .. 5.7 L. I’m upgrading the alternator to 140amp. I’ve been getting conflicting advice from others. Do i need to upgrade wiring and do I need a longer belt . ?? 
The new one is just a little bigger but fits in same position as old one .. I have a 750 CCA battery . Is battery size ok or go bigger thanks


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Btimmonn said:


> I have a 98' Chevy K1500 .. 5.7 L. I'm upgrading the alternator to 140amp. I've been getting conflicting advice from others. Do i need to upgrade wiring and do I need a longer belt . ??
> The new one is just a little bigger but fits in same position as old one .. I have a 750 CCA battery . Is battery size ok or go bigger thanks


Not replying to the thread you posted?


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Search, the big 3. ..


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## Avalanche 2500 (Dec 31, 2015)

< bump ^


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## PLOWMAN45 (Jul 2, 2003)

call power bastards


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