# Vibration?



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Well I am guessing this isn't a good sign. My 2006 1500 (4.8L V8) is at 146K miles and it is vibrating just a little, I can notice but not sure if anyone else does, when driving between 30-42mph if I am not accelerating. 

Any ideas for what this could be?


----------



## abbottfarm (Dec 27, 2010)

universal joint. Most of the time you can feel them when there on the way out when your just coasting.


----------



## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

I'd check the u-joints too. Might be a tire, doesn't sound serious


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

a front wheel unbalanced could do it. sometimes the wheel weights pop off .

u-joint

front bearings ( dangerous)

good luck


----------



## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

When I've had hub bearings go they started making noise at higher speed 75 then 70 then you replace them


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

I just had the tires aligned, new tires, and new bearings in both front tires (6K miles ago, except for one bearing was 10K or 15K)

I will have to get the U joint looked at? Anyone know about the price for getting them fixed? I was just at the shop getting my oil done and should have checked here first. I also have to get the cover on my rear axle replaced now ($240 bucks they said) since its rotted and just starting to drip fluid.


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

jhall22guitar;1547984 said:


> I just had the tires aligned, new tires, and new bearings in both front tires (6K miles ago, except for one bearing was 10K or 15K)
> 
> I will have to get the U joint looked at? Anyone know about the price for getting them fixed? I was just at the shop getting my oil done and should have checked here first. I also have to get the cover on my rear axle replaced now ($240 bucks they said) since its rotted and just starting to drip fluid.


240 is a lil steep . DIY


----------



## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

I'd think the bone yard would practically give you a cover, not like a 10 bolt isn't common


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Ten bolt cover is about $25. Three quarts of Mobil1 75W90 about $35. One hour or so.


----------



## gmcdan (Nov 4, 2011)

alot of bone yards drain their diffs so that people wont open them up and pour the fluid on the ground . they do it the fast way by punching a hole in the cover then a cork to seal it back up . some boneyards might have em but not as many as you think there would be .


----------



## South Seneca (Oct 22, 2010)

It's hardly worth messing with an old one from the junk yard when you can get brand new for $25. 

Just do yourself a favor and put a good coat of paint on the outside of the new one.


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

I was thinking of doing it myself, between me and my dad I bet we could do it haha. He said to use some synthetic oil that was like 60 a quart?

Anything special we would need to do/anyone know of a good tutorial? I figure its just pop off the old one, replace the cover and gasket and put the oil in.


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

I have done 2 rear covers so far. 1 on a '94 1500 Heavy Half and 1 on an '02 2500. You can get them from the dealer in a kit form with unpainted cover, new bolts and gasket for like $50 to $65 or cheaper if you know a parts guy there. Wipe the oil off the new cover, slap on some self etching primer then paint it with many coats of a good semigloss or flat black paint. Or better yet, a few coats of bedliner spray. That will hold up for quite a while! The synthetic 75w-90 oil is like 15-20 bucks a quart at any aftermarket parts store. Get 3 qts to fill rear diff to *15-35 mm below the fill plug *i believe. Just my 2 cents, YMMV. Good luck with the vibration problem. Keep us updated.


----------



## carkey351 (Oct 18, 2010)

He said to use some synthetic oil that was like 60 a quart?[/QUOTE said:


> better not cost that much...even amsoil is only like 15-20 a quart. he probably meant 60bucks total.. check youtube out for filling it up and the cover removal; its been done lots on there. no sense in re-doing work unless you are in to that sort of thing?


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Im not sure, I would have to check with him. It seems like I could do this on my own very easily. Im not an idiot, and i can use my hands. Its alot easier than taking apart an engine, but ive never tried either haha.


----------



## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

NICHOLS LANDSCA;1547586 said:


> When I've had hub bearings go they started making noise at higher speed 75 then 70 then you replace them


That is one of the symptoms they can have.

The hub bearings on these GMs can fail in about a thousand different ways, to the point where almost any symptom could be them, though I don't think this vibration symptom is.



jhall22guitar;1547984 said:


> I just had the tires aligned, new tires, and new bearings in both front tires (6K miles ago, except for one bearing was 10K or 15K)


I wouldn't rule out hub bearings for recently being replaced. If they weren't AC Delco or Timken then they've got a *strong* chance of being defective from the factory...even if they were then they could. Worse, torque spec is 173 ft-lb and it seems like plenty of shops don't bother torquing them properly at all and the ones who would don't have a torque wrench that reads higher than 150 ft-lb* so they just crank it on WAY too tight using a huge impact wrench. Too little or too much torque will ruin these hub bearings in short time.

These damned hub bearings suck, they don't have the same symptoms every time, they don't last long when you use good parts and do it right, and sometimes they pass every diagnostic test but are still bad. They're probably my biggest complaint about GM's engineering on these trucks...I'm pretty happy with everything else.

Anyway, your symptom doesn't sound like it, but when you get other symptoms just keep my rant in mind.

*: I know because after replacing mine myself recently I asked around...a couple new car dealer service departments (one where a friend works who has helped me out before), a very professional garage where I have a good relationship, and a few others, and NOBODY could give me calibrated torque higher than 150. Anyone in northern RI or central MA have the tool and want to help me out? I drive around with the socket and an extension in my cup holder like a Cinderella shoe just hoping someday to find what I need...



gmcdan;1548234 said:


> alot of bone yards drain their diffs so that people wont open them up and pour the fluid on the ground . they do it the fast way by punching a hole in the cover then a cork to seal it back up . some boneyards might have em but not as many as you think there would be .


Doesn't seem to be common in this area of the country.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

You seriously can't find a torque wrench that reads above 150 ft/lb?


----------



## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

Seriously. Not unless I have a couple hundred bucks to spare...I spent it all on a hub bearing. Like I said, I asked a bunch of places that you'd expect to have one.


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

Strange.... I would think even a moddest tire shop would have a torque wrench that goes higher than 150. A heavy truck/ fleet repair shop should carry a few. Have you tried any heavy shops in your area?


----------



## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

Tire shops have torque wrenches? I've never seen a tire shop use one, they just crank everything on with their impact wrench until rotors are warped and studs are snapped.


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Not worried about the bearings, Wasn't to long ago that I had them replaced, I remember that kicking in at 60+ and it would make alot stronger vibration and you could see the wobble on the tires wear. I used a guy that my family on Cape Cod uses for everything with cars for my tires, great guy. I dont actually remember seeing them use the impact wrench putting the tires on.

I will have the U-Joints looked at, and hopefully will be replacing the cover next week.


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

could be the front diff bearings falling apart. that happened to my 99 silverado. the roller bearings pitted and came apart in chunks. not a pretty sound! they fell apart even though I changed fluid at least once a year. but that would not cause tire wear. possible bad pitman and or idler arms??? inner tie rods lose??? center link taper bosses loose/worn?? control arm bushings loose?? just shooting in the dark here...


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Well we got the rear differential cover done by a shop when we found out I needed brakes (New front rotors, calipers, drums finished, pads, etc etc etc), so my dad had them just do the cover too. :realmad:

They took a look at the U-Joints and said they are fine, so still dont know whats making this vibration  Not sure if it changes what it could be but the trucks a 2WD.


----------



## 911tech (Dec 31, 2009)

theholycow;1549859 said:


> Seriously. Not unless I have a couple hundred bucks to spare...I spent it all on a hub bearing. Like I said, I asked a bunch of places that you'd expect to have one.


Just call any heavy truck or equipment shop I can guarantee that they will have a 3/4 drive torque wrench capable of way more than 178 ft lbs


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Could it be the CV Joints? Not even sure if my truck has them (never really worked on cars) We got a letter with coupons from the guy who did the rest of the work and it mentions CV Joints as something we didnt have fixed? I dont even remember him mentioning it.


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

jhall22guitar;1568659 said:


> Well we got the rear differential cover done by a shop when we found out I needed brakes (New front rotors, calipers, drums finished, pads, etc etc etc), so my dad had them just do the cover too. :realmad:
> 
> They took a look at the U-Joints and said they are fine, so still dont know whats making this vibration  Not sure if it changes what it could be but the trucks a 2WD.


Will not have CV joints if its a 2wd truck! Your shop that did the repairs should know that, so why would they recomend replacement??? haha!


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

He never mentioned it when I was there or when he called after looking at U-Joints and Brakes to see what work I wanted done, I think it was a typo on the letter.

I just want to find out what could be causing this vibration, no un-even tire wear from what I can see, and they said the U-Joints are fine.


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

BUMP

Still trying to figure out this problem. No uneven wear on tires, truck runs great. Just the vibration around 40MPH. Any ideas?

U-Joints were checked and look great. Only 4K since new tires and front wheel alignment. Just had brakes/calipers. Also had center bearing replaced 2-3K Miles ago.


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Does it happen just after it shifts into another gear?


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

It seems to be right before it shifts into the next gear, if it was the transmission I figure it would have been getting worse over the last month but it hasnt, or if it has I havent noticed.


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

My uncles 00' chevy 2500 ext cab longbox has a vibe problem also. 2 pc drive shaft. we started with bal/ swapping tires. Then did all u-joints with no luck. Havn't replaced carrier bearing yet but i had a GM tech look at it and he thinks the drive shaft out of ballance. It is an all steel shaft that is rusting really bad to the point that chunks fall off of it! I dont know if believe that just yet but it may be???? It doesnt get driven alot but sits in a concrete floored building that doesn't sweat. Vehicles only last about 10 yrs anymore I think.....sad. I need to check prices for a good shape used shaft and price a new one (ouch!) I've heard "rumors" if u replace u-joints, its recommended to have the driveshaft rebalanced. Don't know if thats true tho??? And find it hard to believe.......


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

I will check... the bearings in the hubs would cause some tire wear like my fronts did, and there are no signs of that. Carrier bearing was just replaced, and the U-Joints are fine (told by my mechanic)

My new life goal: Get a NEW truck at the end of the year... I want 10K to put down + trade haha. wont be much.


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Bump? Any ideas?


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Gonna have to start throwing out random suggestions 

Ball joints?


----------



## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

Ill check. It seems to be right around the 40MPH mark only. (which sucks because i normally drive around 40-45)


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

Severly warpped rotors or drums??? Worn or loose control arm bushings/bolts??? Steering box play?? I dunno?


----------



## coldcoffee (Jul 17, 2008)

Either jack up the rear or get it on a lift & carefully run it while someone observes the rotation of the drive shaft. You may have thrown a weight out of balance. If so...you should see some wobble on the shaft, which would explain the noticeable shake or vibration at the speeds you mentioned.


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Should turn this into a game show. "Find the mystery vibration!"


----------



## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

2006Sierra1500;1612655 said:


> Should turn this into a game show. "Find the mystery vibration!"


This week on, Find The Mystery Vibration: jhall22guitar's pickup has a Mystery Vibration around 40mph. Will he find out what it is? Stay tuned! Also, next week, in an epic 2-hour episode we'll Find The Mystery Vibrations on a rusted classic deuce-and-a-half!


----------



## mpriester (Oct 2, 2011)

check to see what rpm it does it in, instead of the speed. if it does it at the same rpm that will eliminate any wheel or tire problems and direct you to the driveline. and not all failing u joints will have play in them until they are just about shot but this doesn't mean its not going bad( i had one on the back of mine that was chewing up bearings but had no play in it when i checked it too see if there was movement but when i greased it rust came out, changed the joint and no more vibration). check wheel bearings(axles may have to be pulled to do this).and as mentioned above make sure the drive shaft hasn't thrown a weight(if it did you should notice the mark where the weight was).Good Luck


----------



## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

Any updates jhall????


----------



## Grambo170 (Jan 6, 2013)

I found this on another site interesting reading.


Frame Beaming- GM Campain #PIT3009J 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have found a lot of valuable info on this forum but was surprised that Frame Beaming - GM Campain # PIT3009J was not listed.
So here goes. Frame Beaming is related to the rough ride experienced on some concrete highways with expansion joints. GM Campain #PIT3009J installs 2 new style rear cab mounts.
I printed it off & took it to my dealer, who never heard of it. Unfortunately on a 2006/37K miles = SOL for warranty coverage. So I will be paying for this myself.

It's listed as:

""GM Campaign #PIT3009J: Suspension Vibration Or Frame Beaming At 40-60 MPH (64-80KM/H) - keywords front rear shake shock spring tire - (Sept 18,2008)""


Condition/Concern:

Beam shake vibration is usually felt and occurring at speeds between 40-50 mph (64-80 km/h). Hertz readings using an EVA tool are normally between 8-24 HZ. This condition is most common on extended cab and crew cab models but has also been noted in other models.

Recommendation/Instructions:

The severity of the beam shake may vary from vehicle to vehicle. To determine if the concern is beam shake, please perform the following:

1. Test drive vehicle to confirm the condition. A beam shake condition will usually respond to concrete type pavements more than asphalt, so the vehicle should be driven over both surfaces if possible.

2. Place 200-500 pounds in the pickup bed between the closed tailgate and the wheel wells. A beaming condition should dissipate.

If the concern is determined to be beam shake, this a characteristic of the vehicle. GM Engineering has released updated body mounts to reduce this concern for the Crew and Extended Cab Models. There will be no changes made to the Regular Cab Models.

FOR CREW AND EXTENDED CAB MODELS, REPLACE THE REAR CAB MOUNTS WITH UPDATED PARTS LISTED BELOW. THESE PARTS SHOULD NOT BE USED ON REGULAR CAB MODELS.

New upper and lower mounts should be installed at the left and right rear cab position. The new LOWER mount is a two-piece design, meaning there is a rubber mount with a metal washer. Some models may use a one piece lower mount, meaning the rubber mount has a metal washer molded into it. If the vehicle has the one-piece lower mount design, washers (PN 15854745, Qty 2) will be needed to be used with the new lower mount.

Upper Mount 25791031 Qty 2

Lower Mount 25791032 Qty 2

Washer 15854745 Qty 2 (if needed)

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.


----------

