# Looking To Go Back To Dodges... Sway Me From Ford and GM



## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Well guys, I'm 21. I've owned 11 different trucks since I was 15. Let's just say that I like to sample everything. I'm now looking to buy a brand new truck this spring. I'm done buying used. Anyways, I have always loved Dodges but have seemed to end up with GMs or Fords. What I want to buy is a Ram 2500 regular cab (not sure if it'll be a diesel or not. Worth it?). How do you all like the newer Rams? How are the holding up plowing? All I see around here are GMs. There are a few token Fords and maybe one Ram. I have ruled a new Ford out. I don't like the V8 or V10 that they have and I'm not too excited about the new diesel they offer. They've just been making new diesel engines too often. So that leaves me with a GM (not a huge fan of the style) or the Ram. I'll be trading in both my King Ranch F350 and GMC 2500HD.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Forgot to mention that my dad may also be buying a new Dakota as well, so opinions on those would be great as well. He'll just be using it as a commuter/light duty truck... no serious work or any plowing with it. That's what he has me for according to him.


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## JDiepstra (Sep 15, 2008)

The only problem I am aware of with the new Dodge diesels is that the emissions equipment really chokes them up and costs mileage. I can't imagine it's any different with Ford or Chevy. The guys who remove the emissions equipment are reporting huge power and great fuel mileage.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

I'm pretty sure they don't emissions here in Mass for diesels (atleast I know they didn't this past year on my Ford) so I would think about pulling the emissions stuff if it didn't affect my warranty too much. I'm still in the air about getting a diesel. Is the Hemi plenty powerful enough? I'm not sure I can really justify the price change with a diesel. I bought my King Ranch thinking I'd pull massive trailers, but I only tow medium size trailers now and then. Mostly the only workout my truck would be getting is plowing. I knwot he diesel torque is a huge upgrade.


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## CaptainSmokey (Nov 19, 2009)

I have a 06 2500 and its doing just fine sofar ... put the procomp 2inch leveling kit on it and no sagging in the front. just ned some weight for the ass end ... and its a quad cab


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

Take a 2010 with the 6.7l for a ride, I warn you to bring the cheque book. A few minutes behind the wheel is like falling in love for the first time again. EZ on the right foot for the turbo on the truck will never stop spooling!!! Yep I was so amazed for the power the newer trucks are making. In fact the first time I stood on the gas pedal I had a grin from ear to ear and still wear it every time I get in my truck!!! Not to mention that was two years ago!!!

Watch out for some of the newer Dakotas have had there share of issues. I would look into that purchase a little more!!!


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## 99dodgeramsport (Jan 6, 2010)

not sure of the truth behind it but I heard the new ram gas trucks have a lifetime warranty on drivetrain parts, could save some money in the long run


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## augerandblade (Jan 17, 2009)

tymusicI ordered a Dodge 2500 HD pickup with the 5.7 Hemi and 6 speed manual tranny. 4 wheel drive. I didnt bother with a diesel, and glad I didnt -pay the extra. I have equipped it with a 8.5 Myers V plow and a 8 foot sander in the back. I like the solid axle on the front and it handles a full load of sand. This was my first dodge ever. I wanted a manual tranny as I haul a 32 foot trailer in the summer up in to Northern Ontario on the weekends. However GM cut out the manual tranny in their regular body style. So I checked out Dodge and am happy so far. It has 20,000 Km on it, it plowing and hauling.


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## SafetyLighting (Jul 23, 2005)

I have always had Chevy pickups and really liked them. I work part time in the fleet department at Central Dodge in Raynham, so when the new Ram was released I was able to put it through the paces. My next truck will be a Ram. I drove the 1500 though, so couldn't give you an opinion on the 2500. I will tell you that you can't beat the Cummins Diesel. If you are going to get a 2500, look at the Snow Chief package.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Do they offer the Snow Chief Package for the 2010s? I didn't see it listed on the "build your own" on Dodge's website.


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## augerandblade (Jan 17, 2009)

augerandblade;948725 said:


> tymusicI ordered a Dodge 2500 HD pickup with the 5.7 Hemi and 6 speed manual tranny. 4 wheel drive. I didnt bother with a diesel, and glad I didnt -pay the extra. I have equipped it with a 8.5 Myers V plow and a 8 foot sander in the back. I like the solid axle on the front and it handles a full load of sand. This was my first dodge ever. I wanted a manual tranny as I haul a 32 foot trailer in the summer up in to Northern Ontario on the weekends. However GM cut out the manual tranny in their regular body style. So I checked out Dodge and am happy so far. It has 20,000 Km on it, it plowing and hauling.


Forgot to mention this truck has the Snow Chief package. Diff ratio is 4 10


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## stillen (Dec 7, 2003)

I got the chance to drive a 2010, 2500, quad cab , Cummings, auto, the other day.... had the price tag of $51k...... this truck had so much power it was just amazing... I didn't beat on it because it was a company truck, but wow. if I had that kind of coin, there would be one in my driveway right now....looks incredible........

what i did learn recently is that I guess diesels aren't designed for short trips commuters. I was told that in order to take full advantage of the diesel engine it must be completely warmed up. I only commute 4 miles each way to work and home. My dealer told me that this was not the truck for me, even though i do pull occasionally on long trips. he said that by using a diesel primarily for shorter trips i'm not doing it any good.... i hope that made sense..

If i drove enough to warant a diesel, i would have one...


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

DeereFarmer;947155 said:


> I'm pretty sure they don't emissions here in Mass for diesels (atleast I know they didn't this past year on my Ford) so I would think about pulling the emissions stuff if it didn't affect my warranty too much. I'm still in the air about getting a diesel. Is the Hemi plenty powerful enough? I'm not sure I can really justify the price change with a diesel. I bought my King Ranch thinking I'd pull massive trailers, but I only tow medium size trailers now and then. Mostly the only workout my truck would be getting is plowing. I knwot he diesel torque is a huge upgrade.


The Hemi did get a power bump for 2010, and 383hp, 400ft.lbs torque. I would assume that it is quite a workhorse of an engine. As for 2010 and diesels, out of the big 3, the 6.7 Cummins is the only diesel in a HD

truck that has been 2010 emissions certified since its release in 2007, and is the only one that does not use Selective Catalyst Reduction and Diesel Exhaust Fluid (urea) to meet the standards. Also, you do get a

factory exhaust brake with the Cummins. And, the FAWR has gone up for the diesel equipped trucks, from 5200lbs to 5500lbs. Hemi HD's are still 5200lbs.



99dodgeramsport;948700 said:


> not sure of the truth behind it but I heard the new ram gas trucks have a lifetime warranty on drivetrain parts, could save some money in the long run


The lifetime warranty is no longer throughout the entire Dodge-Jeep-Chrysler lineup. It has been replaced by a 5yr/100,000 mile powertrain warranty (similar to GM).

Oh, and to stillen...there is no *G* in *CUMMINS*


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## WilliamOak (Feb 11, 2008)

If I ever got another dodge it would be a 6.7. I have a friend who has one and the thing absolutely kicks ass with the tuner and 4" straight pipe. 22mpg highway, and 16-17 around town are the last #'s I heard from him. Also that body style is by far dodge's best ever IMO. When it comes time for me to replace my current truck I would give the 6.7 a strong consideration.


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## SafetyLighting (Jul 23, 2005)

DeereFarmer;949181 said:


> Do they offer the Snow Chief Package for the 2010s? I didn't see it listed on the "build your own" on Dodge's website.


Hmmm, I'll find out in a lil while and let you know. I thought they were still offering it.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

stillen;949298 said:


> Iwhat i did learn recently is that I guess diesels aren't designed for short trips commuters. I was told that in order to take full advantage of the diesel engine it must be completely warmed up. I only commute 4 miles each way to work and home. My dealer told me that this was not the truck for me, even though i do pull occasionally on long trips. he said that by using a diesel primarily for shorter trips i'm not doing it any good.... i hope that made sense..


That is my problem now with my Ford. I commute maybe 4 miles one way. I let my Ford diesel warm up for about 15 mins on high idle (which I know kills my mileage) and I'm getting about 9 MPG right now. In the summer I'll get up to 21 MPG on the highway on a trip or something. I'm thinking the Hemi might be just what I need. 383HP is impressive.


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## SafetyLighting (Jul 23, 2005)

Are you hauling anything on a regular basis?


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Nope. I'll haul a horse trailer once in a while and a few small boats and that'd be about it. The most I'd tow is my Uncle's 26ft travel trailer to NH once a summer.


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## zeek (Oct 11, 2009)

As you can see in my pic I have the new dodge 1500, I beat the heck out of it plowing and it works great. The new Hemi has way more power than you will need, I also pull my 30 foot boat with it. I wish I would have waited for the 2010 for the 2500, but they didn't know if it would have the new body style or not. They are sweet, just go drive the chevy first then go drive the dodge, its a tough truck, and like they said it has the lifetime warrenty on the power train.


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

zeek;951236 said:


> As you can see in my pic I have the new dodge 1500, I beat the heck out of it plowing and it works great. The new Hemi has way more power than you will need, I also pull my 30 foot boat with it. I wish I would have waited for the 2010 for the 2500, but they didn't know if it would have the new body style or not. They are sweet, just go drive the chevy first then go drive the dodge, its a tough truck, *and like they said it has the lifetime warrenty on the power train*.


Lifetime warranty was dropped for 2010. 5yr/100,000 is in its place.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

5yr/100,000 is still pretty good IMO.


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

DeereFarmer;951992 said:


> 5yr/100,000 is still pretty good IMO.


i agree youll have a warranty till the truck is paid for. prsport


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Hopefully I'll have the truck paid off in two years, so it better still have a warranty by then no matter what.


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

DeereFarmer;951992 said:


> 5yr/100,000 is still pretty good IMO.


Sure is. Ties with GM (also has 5yr/100k) but beats out Ford.


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## KSikkema (Oct 7, 2008)

are you sure you'll keep it long enough to care about warranty anyway? You seem to go through a few trucks every year, so even if you slow down even slightly, it might not make any difference! anything new is good ( just depends on how long you want that "good" to last )


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## KSikkema (Oct 7, 2008)

as a licenced auto service technician, I'm not really crazy about fords, I like GM's and feel that you can really work a Dodge, but you better be prepared to pay through the nose for front end parts and u-joints. this work can be done on a continual basis. Not much beats a cummins motor and that's what I like about them.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

I plan on keeping this one for a while. I've always said that if I buy new, you lose $10,000 the second you drive it off the lot. I'd keep it for atleast 5 years or so to offset the loss of buying brand new. I like the thought of new because I know that nobody has beaten the crap out of it. The only thing that really worries me about Dodge is (as you stated KSikkema) the front end. That being said I had a Dodge Dakota that I bought off my dad. It had about 125K miles when I sold it and was only on its second set of ball joints. The first set went at 13K miles and was under warranty through Dodge.


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## stillen (Dec 7, 2003)

DF,


If thats the case that you plan on keeping it past the 3/36 for wearable parts, then i highly recommend purchasing a portfolio when you buy the new rig..... A $2300 dollar portfolio will pay off the first time you bring it in for any type of front end work, and yes they cover the HD rigs that have plows hanging from them, I am a perfect example... I bought mine used, and purchased a portfolio at cost because i'm an Chrysler employee, i think i paid 1200, but man was it worth it.... I was real picky my first month, and the dealer replaced well over $5k in front end components all under "warranty". my cost "ZERO"............. the portfolio that i got was the Chrysler gold plan....... basically if anything at all happens to my truck up until 100k miles I am covered....... I'm hoping my tranny and engine blow at 99,999 miles ... BTW, am i that token red headed step child dodge owner you are talking about?????


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

I didn't even know that Chrysler offered that plan. Awesome info bud.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd say go for a HEMI with 4.10's in the Axles. As for the Front ends, they are going to be like any HD truck with a plow- you're going to replace the wear items. Fortunetly there are aftermarket companies like CORE that make Heavy Duty Ball joints that are supposedly much much better than stock. The drivetrain in the current Ram's is very reliable- the HEMI has proven itself, the 545RFE Tranny has proven to be reliable, and the axles are bulletproof. If you don't like the look or interior of the 2006-2009 2500's, take a look at the 2010's- redesigned to look like the new Half Ton Ram's from 2009 with the same (much nicer) interior. They also changed the rear cab mounts to a shock like mount that supposedly completely softens the ride of the new trucks.

As for the Dakota- I beat the crap out of mine, people can't believe I have a 7 1/2' Heavy Duty plow on my truck and they tell me all the time its going to break, blah blah. But it keeps on going every time and works well. I've only changed the shocks, ball joints, and tires in 79k miles. Mine is a 2003 but the drivetrain is the same on the 2010's, the frame was changed to a fully boxed frame and the body/interior was obviously changed as well.

Good luck.


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## 04f250fisher (Sep 13, 2008)

GM wont warrenty a plow on the new diesel extended cabs. My buddy got the first 2010 dodge 2500 diesel in CT and likes it.Cummins is the only motor of the big three to not have the exhaust fluid system. I test drove a 06 HEMI before i bought the CTD and the hemi got 7mpg @60mph..... My cummins gets 24. To me its not worth buying the new emissions motors due to the fuel economy dropping. Its safe to say my next truck probly wont be a diesel, its not worth the price of the motor or the fuel. Take that into consideration.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

There must've been something wrong with that hemi if it was only getting 7mpgs.


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## Koonta (Apr 29, 2007)

it is my understanding that the 6.7 cummins is a real workhorse, and that seems to be the only problem, they need to be worked. one reason is that the DPF loads up and when the motor senses this it will pour extra fuel to it to burn it out shooting your mileage. As far as front end wear, I think I've replaced all the U-joints/cv joints and did king pins on one side, once, '98 12v with 193k and 7 yrs.plowing.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Thanks for all the opinions guys, keep them coming.


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

i wouldn't worry about front end trouble, if your handy you can buy all new ball joints and u-joints for the front for under 400 bucks and spend a weekend upgrading parts. xrf makes good ball joints i got mine for $220 for the set. then buy a good set of u-joints and your set.


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## RacingZR (Nov 14, 2009)

sno commander;957382 said:


> i wouldn't worry about front end trouble, if your handy you can buy all new ball joints and u-joints for the front for under 400 bucks and spend a weekend upgrading parts. xrf makes good ball joints i got mine for $220 for the set. then buy a good set of u-joints and your set.


Exactly, I priced out some stuff for my 03 before I bought it, knowing that at 107K it might need front end work shortly. Truck was never plowed until this year when I bought it. Front end is fine now by the way......
Anyway, you could replace all front end wear parts from hub assembly to hub assembly for around $1000 with good quality, greasable, lifetime warantee parts and that included the 2 hub assemblies. Someone posted $5k worth of front end parts ??? WTF
XFR ball joints and Napa u-joints is my plan for the off season!


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

yup hubs are the most expensive i think there around 250 each. :redbounce


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## gardenkeeper88 (Dec 22, 2001)

I have a o3 dodge diesel. great truck no problems. Front end wear and tear this summer. but it plows every winter, and hauls a dump trailer every day in the summer.
I went back this spring to replace my 99 gmc and was talked into the 09 hemi, and yes I got a lifetime warranty on the drive train. Mine was a snow chief, crew cab with the 8" bed. this winter it has been a beast. awesome trucks. I put a 8.5' western pro plus w/ wings on it plus a buyers swing gate spreader on back. I start each nite w/ about 1.5 ton of ice melting products on it. I AM a dodge man NOW.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

How do you like the Hemi? Is the power as much as everyone says?

I love my 2002 GMC. If they were still making the classic body style I would buy it again in a second, but I don't like the new look as much. It just hasn't grown on me. If I'm spending this much on a new truck it not only has to perform well, but also have the looks I want as well. Dodge does. I think Dodge has always had the best looking trucks out there.


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## JDiepstra (Sep 15, 2008)

KSikkema;955368 said:


> as a licenced auto service technician, I'm not really crazy about fords, I like GM's and feel that you can really work a Dodge, but you better be prepared to pay through the nose for front end parts and u-joints. this work can be done on a continual basis. Not much beats a cummins motor and that's what I like about them.


Hmmm that's strange, I've gone through 3 U-joints in 95,000 miles on a truck that isn't quite stock. U joints are only about $30.


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

After 2.5 years and 50K with the 6.7L I have found it to be a pretty good truck, I've had it reflashed a bunch of times and a sensor change. I never liked the tranny running in 6th at less than 40 mph. I complained three times about how it shifted,so they took the tranny out at 32K put a brand new one in. After the replacement nothing changed until three flashes later, more of a programming issue than mechanical. 
I also had the typical Ball joint issues, I replaced mine with a set of Carli uppers and XRP's for the lower. I also replaced the shocks with a set of Bilstein shocks and a dual Bilstein steering stabilizer system. I have a 2.5" leveling kit for the front, i hope to get them installed in the next week or two.


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## gardenkeeper88 (Dec 22, 2001)

The 2009 hemi has plenty of power. I try to keep the RPM's around 2500 and keep the gas mileage better. 2003 diesel I Have only replace 1 set of front ball joints around 100,000 mi. and just fixed u joints on the drive shafts a month ago. (110,000mi) Remember this i a plow truck every winter and hauls a trailer around all summer. (12,000 dump trailer)


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Thats not bad at all gardenkeeper. I had to do all the ball joints and u-joints on my GMC last stummer at 85K miles. It happens. Thats what work trucks are for.


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## GMC99 (Sep 6, 2002)

Im surprised no one has mentioned although the dodges do eat front u-joints, how easy they are to replace compared to a ford, or chevy half shafts.


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## Duncan90si (Feb 16, 2007)

augerandblade;948725 said:


> GM cut out the manual tranny in their regular body style.


What moron made that executive decision? 



stillen;949298 said:


> I didn't beat on it because it was a company truck.


Isn't the a reason to beat on it?  j/k



JDiepstra;958018 said:


> Hmmm that's strange, I've gone through 3 U-joints in 95,000 miles on a truck that isn't quite stock. U joints are only about $30.


I just bought my 05, but my friend owned it prior to me. The U joints in the front driveshaft were replaced around 80K I believe, and the u joints in the front axle were replaced at 110K (right) and 115K miles (left). 
I love how people talk about u joints in Rams going bad, when a majority of them have never even owned a Ram or have never worked on one. Even if they do go bad, like JDiepstra said, they are cheap and fairly easy to replace.


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## rstan2010 (Nov 25, 2009)

Duncan90si;960710 said:


> What moron made that executive decision?
> 
> Isn't the a reason to beat on it?  j/k
> 
> ...


Yeah I agree most people that talk bad about Dodge don't actually own one. Is your a Hemi or Cummins?


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## Duncan90si (Feb 16, 2007)

rstan2010;960771 said:


> Yeah I agree most people that talk bad about Dodge don't actually own one. Is your a Hemi or Cummins?


Cummins 6 speed.


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## plowmaster07 (Feb 1, 2009)

GMC99;960676 said:


> Im surprised no one has mentioned although the dodges do eat front u-joints, *how easy they are to replace* compared to a ford, or Chevy half shafts.


Are you being sarcastic??? My 96 dodge is the BIGGEST PITA to do u-joints on. You have to take the entire steering knuckle out just to get to the u-joint/ and the rotors might I add. But the one's on the drive shaft aren't that bad to do.


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## plowmaster07 (Feb 1, 2009)

I can't say as far as the new Dodge trucks go, but on my 1996 its still running and pushing strong. It has a 5.9L gas with an 8' blade since day 1. Also it has been towing a 12' landscape trailer for the past year and a half. It also just turned 139,000 yesterday.

I have been thinking about a newer truck soon, (maybe next spring) and I'm really liking the newer Dodges. If you end up getting one, let me know how you like it.


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

plowmaster07;960846 said:


> Are you being sarcastic??? My 96 dodge is the BIGGEST PITA to do u-joints on. You have to take the entire steering knuckle out just to get to the u-joint/ and the rotors might I add. But the one's on the drive shaft aren't that bad to do.


i think you will find that all trucks youll have to take the rotors off to do front u-joints 
really its not that bad of a job, i find it easier to use a torch to cut the center of the joint out and just bang each piece out. you just gotta be good otherwise you screw the yoke up.


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## plowmaster07 (Feb 1, 2009)

sno commander;960883 said:


> i think you will find that all trucks *youll have to take the rotors off to do front u-joints*
> really its not that bad of a job, i find it easier to use a torch to cut the center of the joint out and just bang each piece out. you just gotta be good otherwise you screw the yoke up.


I was trying to say that you have to take the steering knuckle out, just to do the rotors.

And yeah the way you took my post, must make me look pretty smart! lol. :laughing:


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

im just messing with ya 

cant you just unbolt the bracket that holds the calipers on to take the rotor off? is that what your saying?
anyway i guess it doesn't matter because deere farmer will be looking at 3rd gens which are a little different.


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## plowmaster07 (Feb 1, 2009)

sno commander;960914 said:


> im just messing with ya
> 
> cant you just unbolt the bracket that holds the calipers on to take the rotor off? is that what your saying?
> anyway i guess it doesn't matter because deere farmer will be looking at 3rd gens which are a little different.


got ya.

No, it's not that simple. Take the caliper off, undo the upper and lower ball joints, break it apart from the wheel bearing. And maybe one other step..... not to fun. lol.

How bad is it to do on your 2007?


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

plowmaster07;960925 said:


> got ya.
> 
> No, it's not that simple. Take the caliper off, undo the upper and lower ball joints, break it apart from the wheel bearing. And maybe one other step..... not to fun. lol.
> 
> How bad is it to do on your 2007?


why are you taking the ball joints off? you pull all the brake stuff off. unbolt the hub bearing assembly and and pull it off. (thats the pita) the easiest way is to use your power steering to pop your hub out. loosen the 4 bolts that hold your hub in a few turns then use the snapon tool or a socket with an extension and push it out. then the ujoint/axel shaft is ready to come out. 
no need to touch the ball joints unless there bad too. my 07 is about the same job as above takes around 2-3 hours a side.


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## plowmaster07 (Feb 1, 2009)

sno commander;960985 said:


> why are you taking the ball joints off? you pull all the brake stuff off. unbolt the hub bearing assembly and and pull it off. (thats the pita) the easiest way is to use your power steering to pop your hub out. loosen the 4 bolts that hold your hub in a few turns then use the snapon tool or a socket with an extension and push it out. then the ujoint/axel shaft is ready to come out.
> no need to touch the ball joints unless there bad too. my 07 is about the same job as above takes around 2-3 hours a side.


Because at least for mine. I have to break the ball joints loose, to free up the steering knuckle so that can be removed. And break the wheel bearing assembly free to get to the rotors. I know that my dad's Honda is the same way, yet his 93 f350 was similar to what you're talking about. But oh well. I shouldn't have to do them before the truck gets sold.


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## GMC99 (Sep 6, 2002)

plowmaster07;961348 said:


> Because at least for mine. I have to break the ball joints loose, to free up the steering knuckle so that can be removed. And break the wheel bearing assembly free to get to the rotors. I know that my dad's Honda is the same way, yet his 93 f350 was similar to what you're talking about. But oh well. I shouldn't have to do them before the truck gets sold.


What year is your truck? On my 99 2500 you don't have to pull any of the steering stuff apart, you pull the hub assembly off then the rotor..... My 2003 though, is more like doing brakes on a front wheel drive car... The first time doing it is the worse, because everything is rusted up... i ant-seize everything before putting it back together, now everything pops right off. Can usually have both sides apart on the 2003 in less then an hour.


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## plowmaster07 (Feb 1, 2009)

GMC99;961775 said:


> What year is your truck? On my 99 2500 you don't have to pull any of the steering stuff apart, you pull the hub assembly off then the rotor..... My 2003 though, is more like doing brakes on a front wheel drive car... The first time doing it is the worse, because everything is rusted up... i ant-seize everything before putting it back together, now everything pops right off. Can usually have both sides apart on the 2003 in less then an hour.


It's a 1996.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

stillen;949298 said:


> had the price tag of $51k...... QUOTE]
> 
> F' that. The prices on new vehicles today are insane. I don't care how nice it is. I'm keeping my paid for truck.


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## stillen (Dec 7, 2003)

Banksy;962028 said:


> stillen;949298 said:
> 
> 
> > had the price tag of $51k...... QUOTE]
> ...


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

Ya wait till we get old too!!! 

Holy cow boy!!! When I was your age a truck only cost $62 000.00, you must be insane paying $225 900. for your new one!!!! NTM its only a work truck.......


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

If you walk into a Dodge dealership and don't get $10k off sticker, than you got hosed. The 1500's are getting between $12k-$13k off sticker. Give the 2010's a few month's and you'll be able to get $10k off the sticker.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

plowguy43;962539 said:


> Give the 2010's a few month's and you'll be able to get $10k off the sticker.


Just more money to poor into a new plow and accessories.wesport


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

True that!


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

A few of my local dealers are now offering $5100 off and 1.9% financing for 60 months on 2010 2500s. I really hope they keep that until the spring when i want to buy one. That'd be enough to justify the Cummins!


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