# What happened and is it fixable?????



## AFM Contracting (Oct 4, 2006)

i was done work today i cleaned up my street a little bit and when I was done I got out to adjust my headlights and the top of the pump was cracked! it seems to be one thing after another. so can I fix this and how... I need to fix it ASAP, tomorrow Im going to pull it off the truck and drain all the fluid, but I dont know where to go from there. the weirdest part is that it still goes up and down side to side!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Meyer pumps will not tolerate water/ice in them.I'd bet it's had water in it for a while and froze,that's not what broke the top cap though (not directly anyway) What actually happen's is the ice chunk's that are in the fluid plug up the pump pressure relieve valve as the E60's have no screen on the pick up side of the pump! (dumb IMO) So anything in the reservoir will go right through the gear pump (water/ice and all).When that happens the excess pump pressure has nowhere to go so the additional pressure that the pump is producing cause's the system pressure to be way too high.The extra pressure behind the lift piston has enough force to push the piston right out through the top cap when it get's to the end of it's travel.The pressure relief on these E60's is set to regulate the maximum pump pressure at 2500 lbs. If the relief valve isn't venting the excess pressure back to the reservoir due to a restricted press relief, these pump's can easily develop over 3000 lbs.of hydraulic pressure.That is enough pressure to push on the lift piston with enough force to break the top cap. Seen it happen many time's. Just another reason to do a flush and fill every year on these pump's.


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

you must not have stops to stop the ram for topping out and you broke the top cap from topping out your lift ram to many times. You should have stops between your A frame and harness that prevent you from lifting too high and you have adjust you lift chain so that the stops hit before topping out your ram and yes its fixable.


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## repo_man62 (Oct 24, 2004)

Ahhhhhhh....just duck tape it!!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

[email protected];353093 said:


> you must not have stops to stop the ram for topping out and you broke the top cap from topping out your lift ram to many times. You should have stops between your A frame and harness that prevent you from lifting too high and you have adjust you lift chain so that the stops hit before topping out your ram and yes its fixable.


Meyer plow's don't have "stops" to stop the travel of the lift cylinder.That's what the cylinder top cap is for.The A frame stop's are only there to stop the plow from going too high and hitting the lift arm on the back of the blade during stacking.


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

Sorry B&B your wrong, the stops are also to prevent this from happening. Seen it dozens of times and miraculously when you show the guy that he can adjust his lift chain so that the A frame hits the stops BEFORE the lift ram tops out SURPRISE SURPRISE no more broken top caps!!! Think about it for a second, that thin little cap constantly getting smacked from the ram topping out it will eventually brake. If you repeatedly hit a cast metal peace with a 5lb hammer it will eventually brake!! hence you Meyer's pump cap!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

[email protected];353441 said:


> Sorry B&B your wrong, the stops are also to prevent this from happening. Seen it dozens of times and miraculously when you show the guy that he can adjust his lift chain so that the A frame hits the stops BEFORE the lift ram tops out SURPRISE SURPRISE no more broken top caps!!! Think about it for a second, that thin little cap constantly getting smacked from the ram topping out it will eventually brake. If you repeatedly hit a cast metal peace with a 5lb hammer it will eventually brake!! hence you Meyer's pump cap!


 No, I'm not wrong and I'm not an amature with Meyer plow's either.Have you ever seen a conventional mount with stop's? I doubt it. Have you ever seen any specs in Meyer literature that tell's you to adjust the lift chain until the plow hit's the stop's on a Classic mount before the lift cyl run's out of travel? Did your Meyer rep tell you to do it that way on every plow install? None of mine ever did.I agree it is a good idea though but there's eaiser way's to save the top cap from damage.


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## Lawnscape89 (Nov 28, 2005)

That seems like crazy talk....the stops are to keep the lift cylinder from going too high? Anyway you look at it, something is stopping the cylinder from going too high and I don't think it would be the A-frame against the stop blocks. I actually removed mine to allow more "float" when stacking so it wasn't "lifting" the truck. JMO.

Also, if there is no plow on the truck and you lift the cylinder....What stops it? Or does it automatically go through the lid? I don't think so.


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

Well you boys believe what you want but I personally own over 30 Meyers E-47 and E- 60 pumps and since we stopped the rams from topping out we haven't broken a cap since.
I speak from experience and not what my rep tells me or what I read so get your head out of your ass and use some common sense!!! Oh and why the hell are you lift you pump ram with no plow on the truck So whats your easier way to stop top cap damage then B&B??? lets here it from the PRO!:salute:


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## AFM Contracting (Oct 4, 2006)

hey [email protected] where are you from in Ontario... Im from Hamilton


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Fatboypoolboy, I'm not sure why your taking this personally, as I'm assuming by your bold statement's.I never said your method wouldn't work, in fact I said in my last post that I agreed your method was a good idea. What I said was Meyer doesn't use the stop's to intentionally limit the lift cylinder travel, only to limit stacking height.


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

AFM, I'm north of Toronto.tymusic


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## NorthernILPlwr (Oct 20, 2006)

Time to get a Western!!!!  

Plowin' since 91 and no problems except fluid changes and replacing hoses every year!


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## AFM Contracting (Oct 4, 2006)

*I Give Up!!!*

I think I am gonna get a western. I replaced the cap, did a fluid change, and then BANG! It ran great, super fast and smooth, I was very Impressed. then the whole thing dropped. the part that the long studs for the top cap thread into broke. back to square one.... and my first question... Can I fix this? If not does anyone want to buy an E60 H


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yea you can fix it but your gonna need to buy a new sump base. What did the fluid look like that you drained out? Was it reasonably clean (other than the aluminum fragment's of course).


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

[email protected];353441 said:


> Sorry B&B your wrong, the stops are also to prevent this from happening. Seen it dozens of times and miraculously when you show the guy that he can adjust his lift chain so that the A frame hits the stops BEFORE the lift ram tops out SURPRISE SURPRISE no more broken top caps!!! Think about it for a second, that thin little cap constantly getting smacked from the ram topping out it will eventually brake. If you repeatedly hit a cast metal peace with a 5lb hammer it will eventually brake!! hence you Meyer's pump cap!


Actually the manufactures want the pump to go full stroke and have no less than 1/4" between the plow and the stop. They want it to go full stroke so that lift can't put undo stress on the A-frame & lift chain. If you run w/o the stops they want you to make sure that the plow can't hit the lift arm when stacking.
More than likely this break came from too high of a pressure relief setting. I'd like to see him replace the cap and do a pressure test before re-adjusting the setting. Better have a 4000-5000psi gage on when tested, I've spiked my 3000psi gage many times....


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## AFM Contracting (Oct 4, 2006)

it seems clean to me. how hard/$$expensive is it to replace the sumpbase?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Well the sump base is what everything is attached too so you'll need to completely disassemble the pump.If you go this route make sure to set the pump pressure correctly after reassembling the pump. I still stand like I said in my original post that your damage is being caused by an extremely high pump pressure relief setting.


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

AFM Contracting;353898 said:


> I think I am gonna get a western. I replaced the cap, did a fluid change, and then BANG! It ran great, super fast and smooth, I was very Impressed. then the whole thing dropped. the part that the long studs for the top cap thread into broke. back to square one.... and my first question... Can I fix this? If not does anyone want to buy an E60 H


OUCH! I suspect this may have been cracked the first time around. When they blow it usually goes off to one side and bends at least one stud. I've repaired a couple that have done this.
When checking pressure make certain to recheck pressure after the cover nut has been tightened as tightening it may turn the pressure up!
Lon


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

LON;353961 said:


> OUCH! I suspect this may have been cracked the first time around. When they blow it usually goes off to one side and bends at least one stud. I've repaired a couple that have done this.
> When checking pressure make certain to recheck pressure after the cover nut has been tightened as tightening it may turn the pressure up!
> Lon


BTW, I have a base sitting on the shelf......................


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## Rcgm (Dec 17, 2000)

I think what pool boy was saying was adjust the chain so that the frame of the plow tops out before the pump hits top cap.Which can be done by adjusting the chain.


RCGM
Brad


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

Here we go again, someone that reads too much. if you don't let the ram top out all the time you won't break your cap and base. What do you think is stronger, your cap and base or the steel A frame and harness??? come on guys its not rocket science here. yes the base housing was definatly damaged the first time around, it just took a little more use to finish it off.


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

Yes Rcgm that is exactly what I was saying, I'm glad some one understands


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## fatboy (Dec 6, 2006)

You can keep replacing pump parts and I'll keep working payup 
and mybe replace my lift chains evey 3 or 4 years 
I haven't broken a pump in 4 years after making sure the chain are adjusted properly.
I know I know you didn't see that in your Meyers manuel though did you!!


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## ta3834bbl (Dec 4, 2004)

All good points and great suggestions. I have read in my Meyer manual to store the lift ram in the extended position because the cyl is full of fluid at that time (page 20 from the oparation and maintenance manual). I thankfully haven't had that happen to me in 13 years of owning a Meyer 47 pump. I think a direct hit to the lift arm could cause both of those failures at the same time. I have not been able to break the top of mine by extending the cyl fully up with or without the plow on it, not saying that it won't happen. I am not taking sides to anyone, just relaying info from my personal opinion account.


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## maximus44 (Nov 28, 2006)

I think the best thing for you to do is to buy anything else but MEYERS !
IMO they are a piece of crap !
Meyers was my first plow in 1989.
I swear I'll never buy another one again! In fact ,if one was offered to me for free,I would not take it !
Have you priced out a new one?
Sorry,just venting .
Good luck though.
Btw,I'm in Woodbridge.tymusic


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

*Yes it can be fixed!*

IMHO

I clean all the fluid out and put it a nice box, ship it down to Jerre's in Erie, PA, you'll get it back as good as new, he'll also tell you for sure what caused your problem and how to correct it.
Jay


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

Get a Fisher!


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