# Project for Next season 17-18: Budget Back Plow



## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

I am really thinking hard about making a back plow set up. I will be utilizing my own design by leveraging other pics I have seen of these things. I will be on a tight budget. I want to spend 800.00 this also includes the 2 way pump. The steel will be sourced from a local steel company I use all the time (actually I have most of it in stock). This is new material. I do not like using scrap yard pick and pull steel cause you spend more time sanding and cleaning it. Ok. So I know there are naysayers out there (there always is) that will say just buy one. That aint happening so I will not entertain your rebuttal if that is all you have to offer. I have most of the steel gathered and sourcing a pump right now(cheap). It will have built in lights and maybe some side strobes as well. I probably will not be adding to this until late Summer or even fall. Just getting a jump on things and gathering material


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

You should start with half a water heater.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Mark Oomkes said:


> You should start with half a water heater.


You beat me to it! LOL

Literally in tears right now


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## Mike_PS (Feb 28, 2005)

Mark Oomkes said:


> You should start with half a water heater.


ok, I admit, I got a good :laugh: when I read this, however, let's stay on topic and offer some real opinions, please


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

Michael J. Donovan said:


> ok, I admit, I got a good :laugh: when I read this, however, let's stay on topic and offer some real opinions, please


Seems like a perfectly reasonable opinion to me....after all if it works on the front why wouldn't it work on the back?


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

Seriously though...800 all in including a pump? And all new steel? I bet there's 300 bucks in steel, welding supplies, and paint just in one of the wings on our eblings.

How durable is this contraption required to be?


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Michael J. Donovan said:


> ok, I admit, I got a good :laugh: when I read this, however, let's stay on topic and offer some real opinions, please


Nice to see the human side pop oot.

Op I've toyed with the idea of building a BB and my numbers ende up close $2500


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

I am so glad this thread is already so lively. I will not be using a water heater or seatbelts to fabricate it. I hope to get some pics of what I have so far up soon.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Ok found a pic I had. LOL.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

I would make the molboard taller than that.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Besides the water heater, lol Should be threads somewhere that guys built there own pull behind.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

It's going to be 24" tall plus a fisher 6" tall cutting edge.


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## absolutely (Dec 9, 2010)

I would think you could pick up an old used one and fix it up for under $1500. I see them here in there on craigslist for a grand.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Its more fun to make it yourself, you need to design your own label.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Watching this. Have to throw this out there. It only makes sense to use both halves of the water heater, front and back.


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## aclawn (Oct 17, 2009)

Take a look at some water heater work he has done before.LOL
http://www.tjsperformance.com/


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

If you look close in that pic you can see the long piece of 2" x 4" material is spliced back together to make it 7.5 feet long. I had some stock left over from a previous job. So right now I am at 225.00 and have all the structural steel, the DOM tube for the upper arms, etc, as well as the 8" C channel that will allow me to plug into the 3 hitch recievers I am going to use. I need a mold board and cutting edge and I should be good to go in the steel deptartment.It is going to be real tight to try and not blow my budget but it won't be as near as a used one or even 2500.00, plus it will be how I want it to operate.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

TJS said:


> If you look close in that pic you can see the long piece of 2" x 4" material is spliced back together to make it 7.5 feet long. I had some stock left over from a previous job. So right now I am at 225.00 and have all the structural steel, the DOM tube for the upper arms, etc, as well as the 8" C channel that will allow me to plug into the 3 hitch recievers I am going to use. I need a mold board and cutting edge and I should be good to go in the steel deptartment.It is going to be real tight to try and not blow my budget but it won't be as near as a used one or even 2500.00, plus it will be how I want it to operate.


So you're not going to have hyd wings on it?
Are you using Hiem Joints for the lift arms?
BTW when I looked into it I was using Ebling as a goal to reproduce not a Daniels.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Are you building in a live edge into the design?


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Heim joints will be used. No hydraulic wings. It will have some sides on it though. It will be a straight design. I just scored a monarch dyna jack dual action pump (power up/power down) that works for a 100 bucks. Not planning on using a trip edge if I am going to be using down pressure. I am open to thoughs on this. If I did I would need to find an old diamond horizonal spring trip edge set up. I would think with down pressure it might trip. However maybe with the proper angle it won't trip with down pressure.


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## absolutely (Dec 9, 2010)

It is obvious you have the skills to do this and most likely enjoy doing fab work. I'm sure it will work well. Good luck!


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## Herm Witte (Jan 27, 2009)

John_DeereGreen said:


> Seems like a perfectly reasonable opinion to me....after all if it works on the front why wouldn't it work on the back?


I've seen them made from a steel water tank. They're not far off Michael.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

No water tank or curves here. Found another pic I had on my phone. I have the other 2" x 4" piece as well.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Subscribing...
If you have down pressure you can actually angle the edge backwards so that it rides over obstacles. Eliminates the need for a trip, that's how the arctic plow partner is designed.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Mr.Markus said:


> Subscribing...
> If you have down pressure you can actually angle the edge backwards so that it rides over obstacles. Eliminates the need for a trip, that's how the arctic plow partner is designed.


 That is exactly what I was thinking of doing anyway. Thanks for the confirmation.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Plow partner also has a float feature, down pressure is good for a good scraping but sucks if you are doing slopes and aprons.


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## extremepusher (Aug 24, 2011)

Subscribed I agree with the float idea. All of our have down pressure. But had 3 of ours rip apart the hitches. All 3 are the receiver tubes welded to the reese hitch type by a local welder. The B&b style & short iron one not problem, but on the b&bs are snapping of part of there hooks for attachment. But reinforced them better and told guys not so much down pressure, don't need the rear tires in the air to scrape the pavement clean.. Are you planning to put a gusset plate on that seam you made? That is one the weakest areas when you catch something..


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

extremepusher said:


> Subscribed I agree with the float idea. All of our have down pressure. But had 3 of ours rip apart the hitches. All 3 are the receiver tubes welded to the reese hitch type by a local welder. The B&b style & short iron one not problem, but on the b&bs are snapping of part of there hooks for attachment. But reinforced them better and told guys not so much down pressure, don't need the rear tires in the air to scrape the pavement clean.. Are you planning to put a gusset plate on that seam you made? That is one the weakest areas when you catch something..


Not sure what or who B&b is. Also I thought about the stress on one hitch receiver and have taken that into account with my design. Yes there will be multiple combinations of gussets going on in this build. Update on parts scrore. I did some mill work on my buddies Yami PWC carbs. He is giving me the monarch dyna pump. Score. This heps the budget.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

extremepusher said:


> Subscribed I agree with the float idea. All of our have down pressure. But had 3 of ours rip apart the hitches. All 3 are the receiver tubes welded to the reese hitch type by a local welder. The B&b style & short iron one not problem, but on the b&bs are snapping of part of there hooks for attachment. But reinforced them better and told guys not so much down pressure, don't need the rear tires in the air to scrape the pavement clean.. Are you planning to put a gusset plate on that seam you made? That is one the weakest areas when you catch something..


Ebling's don't rip apart...........


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

Mark Oomkes said:


> Ebling's don't rip apart...........


Funny what happens when you buy a good product to begin with, isn't it?


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## extremepusher (Aug 24, 2011)

I wish we had them. But we don't.. Miss mine, but been in the salt truck the last two seasons any way. The b&b use a fork type hookup similar to a Boss plow..


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## Avalanche 2500 (Dec 31, 2015)

aclawn said:


> Take a look at some water heater work he has done before.LOL
> http://www.tjsperformance.com/


TJS, Nice quality builds!!! Among many others . Keep us posted on the back plow, be safe. Thumbs Up


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

TJS said:


> Not sure what or who B&b is. Also I thought about the stress on one hitch receiver and have taken that into account with my design. Yes there will be multiple combinations of gussets going on in this build. Update on parts scrore. I did some mill work on my buddies Yami PWC carbs. He is giving me the monarch dyna pump. Score. This heps the budget.


So you will have power up, power down, and float?


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Randall Ave said:


> So you will have power up, power down, and float?


 I am going to try.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

If you can keep power on the down valve. Pump motor off, it should float.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Randall Ave said:


> If you can keep power on the down valve. Pump motor off, it should float.


 Yes, you and I think alike. I was laying awake thinking about this. I think that power to both valves without motor action will allow it float though. Not just the one valve. Having a second button with an indicator light is no biggie next to the up/down toggle switch.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

You will need a diode in that circuit I believe.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Randall Ave said:


> You will need a diode in that circuit I believe.


 I am not sure yet. I am not even close to wire. However this will be a seperate float swtich. I would think maybe no diode, but it cannot hurt.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Ok. Update. Score. Got the Monarch pump for some barter time. I had to fix/fabricate/modify two velkies for a scaag and a bobcat mower. Took me about 2 hours and some scrap material. In turn my buddy gave me this pump I was going to buy from him. I took the pump all apart and flushed it, cleaned the screen and removed the valves and checked and cleaned them. Cleaned the tank out. This thing does not look that old to be honest. I have a swich and some wiring I am going to wire it up. I also have hoses for this with JIC 6 on each end. So some fittings are going to be needed. Surplus center is good for that. So far I have 225.00 into the whole project. More to come.


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## Mistifier (Aug 21, 2016)

And??? Whats the progress?


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

I have not had a chance to get back on it. I have been fixing other people's rusted junks $$, money in the door comes first and self projects come last.
I am also making gates for my driveway because people think they can use my driveway as a "U" turn.
I have acquired more material though. Just some odds and ends here and there. I will get back on it as soon as I can. See gate build vids on my youtube site. First and last set I will ever build. Username: tjsnordic


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

TJS said:


> I have not had a chance to get back on it. I have been fixing other people's rusted junks $$, money in the door comes first and self projects come last.
> I am also making gates for my driveway because people think they can use my driveway as a "U" turn.
> I have acquired more material though. Just some odds and ends here and there. I will get back on it as soon as I can. See gate build vids on my youtube site. First and last set I will ever build. Username: tjsnordic


Gate looks pretty cool, any pics of it hanging?


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

The only pics I have of the gate hanging is the gate hanging from my chainfall off of my I-beam. You can see the many pics on my IG site of the gate. IG username: tjsperformance


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

The coolest gate I've seen was at the entrance of Hunter S Thompson's place in Woody Creek, Co. He had 2 Gargoyles with red LEDs for eyes that lit up at night.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Ok was able to get a little done here and there. My drill motor caught fire drilling more top arch hole. New one coming today. Anyway, I found an Army battery box (free) and recofigured it to fit the monarch pump. I had to make a notch and a box so the up solenoid would fit. I also repositioned the side latches to make this thing not as high. The pump is bolted to the bottom. There is crossmember supports on the bottom of the insde of the box as well.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Here is the top on it. I have good internal clearance to run the hoses and wires.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Last but not least the biggest score of the day. I got two of these double acting hydraulic cylinders off an old wrecker and they were free. They also work great and do not leak. I am only using one of them for this project.


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