# Front axle U-joint



## hydro_37 (Sep 10, 2006)

On a 89 F-250 how hard is it to replace the u-joint on the front passenger side axle? The driver side went in easy and now the passenger side is getting loose. Do I need special tools? Does the axle shaft need to come out?


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## linckeil (Sep 18, 2007)

do you have the F250 or F250 Heavy Duty? the 250 has a dana 44, the 250hd has a dana 50. both are TTB independent axles and the Ujoint work would be similiar on either.

you say you did the driver side already, so the passenger side is the same procedure. but the passenger side has 2 U joints. the outer, and the inner. if replacing the inner, you need to remove the differential cover, drop the C clip from inside the pumpkin, then pull the shaft out. not a big deal, but you need to remove the outer shaft first to get to it. 

if you are replacing just the outer U joint, then its the same process as the dirver side. only speciality tools are snap ring pliers and the hub nut socket.


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

They are same

I am do that on 97 F250 HD now


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## hydro_37 (Sep 10, 2006)

Milwaukee;727798 said:


> They are same
> 
> I am do that on 97 F250 HD now


Sorry MIL...but they are NOT the same on both sides.
Better check your facts BEFORE you post.


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## clark lawn (Oct 7, 2005)

whats different? i did both outters on my 94 f250 in the fall only thin different is the pass. side goes into a slip yoke instead of right into the diff.


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## hydro_37 (Sep 10, 2006)

clark lawn;731323 said:


> whats different? i did both outters on my 94 f250 in the fall only thin different is the pass. side goes into a slip yoke instead of right into the diff.


There is another u-joint on the passenger side to replace is one BIG difference
The INNER one.


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

Well that interested we just pull driveshaft no problem plus it don't have c clip on it. maybe PO remove c clip and put driveshaft in it.


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## linckeil (Sep 18, 2007)

i was just re-reading my post, and now that i'm thinking about it more, the differential did not have a cover. i had to remove the entire third member. not a lot of extra work once you are at that point, but it is a messy job. once the third member was out, i removed the stub shaft that has the inner U joint.
but to remove the third member, both axle sahfts have to be removed. so if you did your driver side already, pull it back out, then pull out the passenger side, then remove the third member.. pain in the ass, but its how its gotta be done. now you know they all need to be done at the same time.....


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## clark lawn (Oct 7, 2005)

if you have a u-joint press u can do it with the shaft still in the diff. its tough but easier than pulling the third member.


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## Ggg6 (Oct 14, 2003)

The passenger side shaft must come out. There is no way to get to the inner u-joint with it in the housing.
Clark- if you only pulled the outer shaft out from the splines then you only did 1/2 the job. There is another stub shaft from the diff to the splines that has a u-joint on it.


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## clark lawn (Oct 7, 2005)

we did all 3 i was able to do the inner one with the stub still in the diff, U-joint press on a lift. it was tight but it was easier than pulling the third member out


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## Dustball (Dec 5, 2008)

I have done the passenger inside u-joint still in the truck with a press as well- it is doable but not fun.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I done it twice on my 89 F250 ( Dana 44 ). Once on my Bronco II which had a similar ( Dana 35 ) in it. You really need to pull out the center section. It's real hard to get to the inner U joint in place. Most times it's been on the truck for a long time so it will not be easy to get out with a press. Plus it's a good idea to inspect the gears and clean out the inside of the housing and replace the seals. Be careful the center section is very heavy and you need a helper to get the locating bolts in without displacing the housing seal. All 3 U joints should be the same part number. Take the best one with you when you get the parts and match them to the new ones. For some reason some computers at part stores have the wrong ones listed. Clean the hubs good and lightly grease them with high temp bearing grease. There are kit's available with new O rings and screws available for the hubs. Check your ball joints. If they are worn you will have to revisit part of the job again to change them. If you don't do them while it's torn down for the U joints. There is a procedure in the book for the wheel bearing preload adjustment too.


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## Dustball (Dec 5, 2008)

If you do remove the third member, do yourself a favor and go to a local hardware store and buy a couple of 1.5-2" studs to thread into the face of the mounting surface. Use those studs to help locate the third member and get your other bolts started when bolting it back onto the axle beam then take the studs out and use the normal hardware.


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