# Help a newbie out Bobcat s160/bobcat 7ft blade



## snown00b (Jan 17, 2011)

Hi all, I have done some searching but felt like starting a thread so hopefully I do not get chastised 

I recently bought a bobcat for residential purposes and snow removal. I have a fairly steep and uneven dirt road/neighborhood. I until this past weekend just had a low profile bucket but found a good deal on a used bobcat blade. My questions are general in terms of usage properly. I cannot seem to dial in this blade well, it either digs in too much or is not scraping enough. I have read a little bit on the "float" position but it seems this is not a good idea from what I see in peoples opinions. I do not have the shoes as they did not come with the blade but according to the dealer I do not want these anyway.

Case in point can anyone offer some general advice on how to best plow with this given my raods, contours and terrain? Thanks all!


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## snown00b (Jan 17, 2011)

Just realized this may have been better suited in residential. Mod feel free to move if you want, sorry!


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## Lawn Enforcer (Mar 20, 2006)

snown00b;1201002 said:


> Hi all, I have done some searching but felt like starting a thread so hopefully I do not get chastised
> 
> I recently bought a bobcat for residential purposes and snow removal. I have a fairly steep and uneven dirt road/neighborhood. I until this past weekend just had a low profile bucket but found a good deal on a used bobcat blade. My questions are general in terms of usage properly. I cannot seem to dial in this blade well, it either digs in too much or is not scraping enough. I have read a little bit on the "float" position but it seems this is not a good idea from what I see in peoples opinions. I do not have the shoes as they did not come with the blade but according to the dealer I do not want these anyway.
> 
> Case in point can anyone offer some general advice on how to best plow with this given my raods, contours and terrain? Thanks all!


First, welcome to plowsite!

I would say that skid shoes would be the option to cure this problem, not sure what the dealer was getting at. Skid shoes set up so the cutting edge is off the ground should be the ticket.


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## snown00b (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks for the welcome!

Yes, that was my thought as well but according to him..."given your roads shoes would not work well".


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## tawilson (Nov 21, 2003)

I have a S250 and a 7' snowblade with the shoes and a 1/2 mile road and you need the shoes till things get froze solid. I'm not sure the float works in forward. The manual says it's for backdragging the bucket for leveling dirt.


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## snown00b (Jan 17, 2011)

Is your road dirt or paved tawilson? And yes the manual does not suggest using float at all unless reversed. 

Trying to imagine how the shoes without any sort of float are any different than simply setting the blade @ a certain height from the ground though. If you do not have any gravity at work on the arms what is the difference?


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## tawilson (Nov 21, 2003)

It's gravel. There's enough flex in the system, loaders, tires so it does kinda float. I'll pay more attention next time I plow.


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## Rod (NH) (Dec 13, 2010)

You should have the shoes and provide for a TRUE plow float, like is normal on a truck plow, not the lift arm "float" on the Bobcat. Here's how I did mine:
http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/bobcat/bobcatplow.htm


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## tawilson (Nov 21, 2003)

Wicked bad good.


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

In my experience the shoes do not work. When the ground is soft the shoes simply dig in until the blade is pushing gravel anyway. Im my opinion you are just going to have to keep working at it and experimenting with the bucket curl and lift arm functions. When I plow I am always adjusting. You will learn to be able to feel what the plow is doing rather than waiting to see the gravel in your windrows. It is hardest when you have uneven ground or at grade changes. That blade sticks out 4' or so in front of the tires so you can't just set it and go. The short wheelbase of your machine makes it even harder. Rods fabrication is a great job and it is set up the same way many plow trucks are built. This system is more forgiving than the Bobcat rigid mounting. When I plow with my trucks (which I use for plowing on gravel subdivision roads) I am still constantly adjusting the height of the plow in an attempt to get as close as I can to the road surface without digging up gravel. Even on the trucks the shoes just dig in when the ground is soft. Practice makes perfect.


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## Snowzilla (Oct 24, 2009)

Rod (NH);1201112 said:


> You should have the shoes and provide for a TRUE plow float, like is normal on a truck plow, not the lift arm "float" on the Bobcat. Here's how I did mine:
> http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/bobcat/bobcatplow.htm


I agree. I think the Bobcat brand blades are ridgid. I like the design of this Big Ox brand. It isn't overly heavy, has a chain support for integrated float, and some pivot ability for uneven terrain. I priced a 7.5' for $2200 last year.

http://www.hiniker.com/snow_products/big-ox_standard.html#


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## rob_cook2001 (Nov 15, 2008)

Bobcat brand blades are a pain in the A$$, they do not articulate side to site. When you angle the blade the trailing edge wants to dig in. Once you get use to it you will be able to do a ok job. Try lifting your boom up 4-6 inches, it puts the A frame at a little better angle and your blade will not dig in quite as bad. Also your best bet is to try leaving a inch or so of snow on the ground.
Robert


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