# Going to need a new plow truck - advice



## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

Howdy All:

First post here, my name's Monk.

We have a 1979 Jeep Cherokee Chief with a Western 7.5 or 8' Hydroturn Plow.

The control is one of the older red t-handles.

We have plowed snow with it since 1982 on our wooded 1/2 mile driveway. When we bought the plow, we had to fab a mount for it, since western didn't have one for that vehicle. We have a northman mount to the frame, then built a trapezoid "copy" for the plow motor, and everything else is western.

Anyway, it's been a great plow vehicle. 258 6 cylinder, so we have plowed in low range all these years. I know it seems an unlikely plow vehicle, but with 11.5" tires with monster lugs it's pretty damn good.

FFWD to now, we are using an outboard gas tank (because the tank rusted out 20 years ago), I put my foot thru the floor, the brakes don't work, radiator leaks - it hasn't driven more than 100 miles since the 90s probably...

OK, so we are looking for a replacement. Have toyed with the idea of a half-ton Ford truck (dad is a ford guy). Not new model, but something maybe 10-15 years old?

Old man has a 2003 F350 for hauling trailers that he's selling while it's in good shape, so kinda looking to parlay that cash into a cheaper truck with lower maintainence costs to haul wood and possibly plow.

What we like about the Creep (as we call it) is short wheelbase, so it turns around easy in our tight driveways.

So would like a truck that can handle that plow that is automatic and as short a turning radius as possible. What pickups from the last 15 years fit that bill?

Another idea I threw out, is buying one of the late model Jeep wagoneers (1990) with 360 v8 - would be cheap, and we could just bolt our existing plow on since they were essentially the same frame as the older Cherokees/Wagoneers...

Your thoughts?

CM


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

Short wheel base, easy to turn around, dads a Ford guy.

Allow me to introduce, the Ford Bronco. Thumbs Up


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

True, true.... That's one of the reasons the Wagoneer thing came to mind - same plow mount.

So, what about pickups? What I'm wondering is, what pickups have a reasonable turn radius?

Had a buddy with Silverado (not ditching Chevy trucks) and it needed 4 lanes of traffic to turn around. Trying to avoid that.

So do Ford/Dodge turn sharper? What american pickup has the shortest wheelbase in a full-size truck?

Thanks


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## dt5150 (Feb 3, 2011)

i don't think you're going to find the turning radius you want in a full size truck, likely have to go with another jeep, or smaller truck like an s10, ranger, dakota. or foreign, toyota, nissan. love those old chiefs though, always wanted one.


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

dt5150;1755917 said:


> i don't think you're going to find the turning radius you want in a full size truck, likely have to go with another jeep, or smaller truck like an s10, ranger, dakota. or foreign, toyota, nissan. love those old chiefs though, always wanted one.


Yeah, kinda silly but we are looking at a Wagoneer at the moment.... Since they made them into the 1990s, we could get one with automatic trans and V8 and the plow equipment we have would bolt right on.

Still kicking ideas around.... I know that we could plow with anything, it's just a matter of using the plow we have another 30 years or having to get something that fits a more modern truck.

Shame, that our Creep is so rusted out - that 258 straight six has never not started. Underpowered, but stoopid reliable. Maybe it's the 1/2 thick cake of oil encasing the motor that has protected it all these years, I don't know.


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## not sure (Jan 16, 2014)

Ill vote any half ton in your price range. I think the ifs chevys turn pretty tight. Im plowing with my single cab short bed chevy 1500 and i love it. For @ 4 years i plowed with a 2 dr s10 blazer that turned on a dime


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

not sure;1756619 said:


> Ill vote any half ton in your price range. I think the ifs chevys turn pretty tight. Im plowing with my single cab short bed chevy 1500 and i love it. For @ 4 years i plowed with a 2 dr s10 blazer that turned on a dime


Howdy Not Sure

I'm also here in michigan, in antrim county.

What year is your chevy 1500?

Used to caretake at a farm up here in college years ago, we had a 84 K5 Blazer that was also a great plow truck - probably better than our Creep since it had a V8 and automatic trans.....


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## not sure (Jan 16, 2014)

Its an 88. First year for the newer body style and ifs. Throttle body fuel injection and an automatic with overdrive. Its been a great truck


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## Big-Foot (Jun 2, 2013)

I had an 81 F150 full size truck with Meyer plow. It was a royal PITB to maneuver around in my driveway. I sold it and bought a Jeep Wrangler TJ with Western Plow. The Jeep with the plow is about the same length or a little shorter than just the F150 alone was. It turns on a dime and unless I'm trying to shove a foot of wet snow 200' it does it with little effort. I have Blizzak Revo tires on it, 210# of sand in the back. Engine is. 4.0 6 and automatic trans. 
I will never use anything other than a Jeep going forward..

While we weren't pushing a lot of snow when this picture was taken - here is a picture of me and my little buddy "WAMBO"....


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

Howdy Randy

Looks good. Yeah that's been my experience with the Creep as well - it's a plowing fool but a little weak on the slush when the drive caves in.... But, we have saved the clutch all these years plowing in 4 LOW so it will still get the job done.... The giant "super stinger" cleated tires are a plow truck's dream on dirt/gravel driveway - we have not gotten stuck since those tires went on around 1990....

I know so many folks plow with pickups - I've always been disappointed in the turning radius of pickups! I had a buddy with a 2002 Silverado and seems like the wheels only turn half as much as they should. Our drive and my Aunt's has a bunch of tight nooks and crannies and I only have to 2 point turnaround in them, I can only imagine the PITA of doing it with a 3/4 ton truck.

Someday, we will probably end up with pickup. My dad is waffling on selling his beloved F350 (can't blame him) and the Wagoneer we were looking at sold. 

So currently, thinking about revamping the Creep for a few more seasons. Fixing the brakes, new u-joints, fluids, and I'm considering cutting the body off behind the front seats and plugging it with a sheet of plywood, hillbilly style..... The heater/fan doesn't work well enough to defrost the windows and I'm sick of it. Rear body totally rusted out, I'm getting asphyxiated with exhaust so I figure I'll cut it off, and reuse the back window in the cab. Ought to be able to see and back up without opening the door and looking backward the whole time....

The engine still runs and runs and runs, and the plow is great so I guess we will make due. I just moved back to midwest from CA (picked a great winter for that, eh?) after 15 years and till I find work we will have to make due N git 'er done.

Got about 6" overnight so I'm getting ready to get out and fire up the Creepy Heep and push some snow. World keeps turnin', Creep keeps runnin'.

I probably need to take a pic of that bad mother and post it here.

When I got her out of retirement this season, the whole body is covered with green mold/moss, and there was a giant squirrels nest inside that filled a 30 gallon trash bag. The pinecones I vacuumed out filled the 16 gallon shop vac.

CM


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## Big-Foot (Jun 2, 2013)

Creep sounds a lot like my old 81 F150 Plow Truck "Booger"... 
He was far from pretty and the bed was ready to fall off because of rot. Exhaust system was just barely there, floor boards would have been pleasing to Fred Flintstone but not to me.. He had roughly 70k miles on him but had been used as a farm work and plow truck his entire life. The carbureted 302 ran okay, but he really needed a new carb as he kept stalling out and the carb was beyond help due to some water having gotten into the fuel system and it corroded the guts of the carb. The creeper gear 4 speed worked well. 
Anyways - We have a lot of nooks and crannies here too and I had to manually shovel or snow blower those out before. Now I just shovel back a couple feet or so from the garage doors and the plow drags it back just fine. Of course I have to shovel our sidewalk and decks, but that's not too bad..


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## Diesel_brad (Sep 20, 2010)

I am going to put my $0.02 in here.

I have an 04 Ranger that i adapted a 94 Western Uni-mount to. I typically have 300-900lbs of weigh at the back and it plows BETTER than a full-size with a 7.5' blade

The 6.5' blade was not quite wide enough with my 32" tires, so I made some 6" winds(that bolt on with 3 bolts each) to make the plow to a 7.5'

If you are handy, you can adapt your jeep plow to almost anything


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

Big-Foot;1763292 said:


> Creep sounds a lot like my old 81 F150 Plow Truck "Booger"...
> He was far from pretty and the bed was ready to fall off because of rot. Exhaust system was just barely there, floor boards would have been pleasing to Fred Flintstone but not to me.. He had roughly 70k miles on him but had been used as a farm work and plow truck his entire life. The carbureted 302 ran okay, but he really needed a new carb as he kept stalling out and the carb was beyond help due to some water having gotten into the fuel system and it corroded the guts of the carb. The creeper gear 4 speed worked well.
> Anyways - We have a lot of nooks and crannies here too and I had to manually shovel or snow blower those out before. Now I just shovel back a couple feet or so from the garage doors and the plow drags it back just fine. Of course I have to shovel our sidewalk and decks, but that's not too bad..


Booger - love it! That's awesome.

Yeah, Booger and the Creep have much in common. Backdragging works pretty well, that's true. We inherited a Kubota tractor with a box blade so I've been doing in front of garages with that - works decent....

I'll have to see if I can get some pics up.


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

Diesel_brad;1763378 said:


> I am going to put my $0.02 in here.
> 
> I have an 04 Ranger that i adapted a 94 Western Uni-mount to. I typically have 300-900lbs of weigh at the back and it plows BETTER than a full-size with a 7.5' blade
> 
> ...


I dig that rig - the wings are really nice, would love to have a pair. I think our plow is 7.5' as well. It was originally from a Chevy full size.

I'll bet with the shorter wheelbase that turns around pretty fine.

I think that commercial plow outfits need to use 3/4 ton trucks for durability sake. They are stuck with the crappy turning radius, so they just make do and their experience makes up for that. I've plowed our driveway a hundred times, but when you take on a new one (obviously, one which isn't just a straight slab next to a house in a subdivision) you have to think it thru to minimize turning around....

And since they are on a grueling schedule, there's no time to do a super clean job like we can do on our house. I just spent 4 hours doing about 3/4 mile of driveway and two houses, and most of that was trying to clean the drive since I can't push the snow over the banks anymore!! Maybe this thaw will settle it some.

CM


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## Diesel_brad (Sep 20, 2010)

Colonel Monk;1763685 said:


> I dig that rig - the wings are really nice, would love to have a pair. I think our plow is 7.5' as well. It was originally from a Chevy full size.
> 
> I'll bet with the shorter wheelbase that turns around pretty fine.
> 
> ...


I'm with ya. I do my drive, my neighbors 1/4 mile mountain side drive, another neighbors and my mothers. This truck is about perfect for driveways. I even have a 150lb salter for the back of it


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## jerseydrew (Mar 6, 2010)

i had a great experience with a first generation toyota tundra. it was awesome for plowing too. had a snoway on it with down pressure that was fantastic


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## finn (Jul 16, 2005)

I use a short bed Chevrolet single cab stepside with a Boss plow in the UP. Turns pretty sharply for my tree lined driveway, and it is heavy enough to push quite well. Jeeps don't work well in my experience.

The Full sized Bronco turns really tight, as a previous poster pointed out, but the newest one is a 1996, and they are real rust buckets. I have one that I was going to turn into a yard plow, but I'm not sure the body is good enough.

I've seen a few Tahoes with Plows too. Not commercial but for the work you describe it might be ok.

Stick with a narrow mud and snow tire and an automatic. My chevy is a stick and it (clutch and trans) is a high maintenance, clumsy unit in tight spaces compared to my old F150 or my F450 rigs.

I think any SWB, single cab 1/2 ton will fit your needs.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

I just picked up an '83 K5 Blazer to add to my fleet...

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?p=1789018#post1789018

It is insane how tight that thing turns. ESPECIALLY compared to my duallys!!! I think the worst one is my 2wd crewcab dually....


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

jerseydrew;1764234 said:


> i had a great experience with a first generation toyota tundra. it was awesome for plowing too. had a snoway on it with down pressure that was fantastic


I just sold my 98 Toyota T100 in CA before I moved back to MI. Solid Truck, lots of torque, tight turning. Punched thru ridiculous deep snow at lake tahoe week in week out for years.

Wished I hadn't of sold it, but was having engine troubles and wayyyyy expensive to fix!! I spent more on repairing a few motors on that than you'd have for 4 GM longblock 350's!!

Still loved it. Perfect size, and great gas mileage for a nearly full size half ton.


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

finn;1789574 said:


> I use a short bed Chevrolet single cab stepside with a Boss plow in the UP. Turns pretty sharply for my tree lined driveway, and it is heavy enough to push quite well. Jeeps don't work well in my experience.
> 
> The Full sized Bronco turns really tight, as a previous poster pointed out, but the newest one is a 1996, and they are real rust buckets. I have one that I was going to turn into a yard plow, but I'm not sure the body is good enough.
> 
> ...


What year 1/2T Chevy? That makes sense, I have just noticed that the larger 3/4 ton and above Chevys, the front wheels barely seem to turn - so in addition to a longer wheelbase you can't turn! It's no wonder they had that 4 wheel steering for a while, because they didn't turn worth squat!


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

derekbroerse;1789596 said:


> I just picked up an '83 K5 Blazer to add to my fleet...
> 
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?p=1789018#post1789018
> 
> It is insane how tight that thing turns. ESPECIALLY compared to my duallys!!! I think the worst one is my 2wd crewcab dually....


Yeah, 1984 Blazer was the other plow vehicle I have experience with - turned really tight which was key on the farm and property I tended as caretaker. Steep drives and tight corners.

You have quite an stable of good old north american iron there!! Like I was saying, you can really beat an old chevy when something breaks down. Cheap interchangeable parts - awesome.


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

Colonel Monk;1789896 said:


> I just sold my 98 Toyota T100 in CA before I moved back to MI. Solid Truck, lots of torque, tight turning. Punched thru ridiculous deep snow at lake tahoe week in week out for years.
> 
> Wished I hadn't of sold it, but was having engine troubles and wayyyyy expensive to fix!! I spent more on repairing a few motors on that than you'd have for 4 GM longblock 350's!!
> 
> Still loved it. Perfect size, and great gas mileage for a nearly full size half ton.


I wanted to comment on this before anybody "Jap Craps" in my thread..... Most of these toyota motors are bombproof, and you'll find more 3.4L V6 engines that made it to 250K-300K and beyond than ones that did not.

My experience wasn't typical, and boiled down to maintenance. I didn't realize that the "toyota red" coolant they use for aluminum heads needs to be changed and flushed 1-2 times a year to keep it from eating away at the special headgasket that lets you run aluminum heads....

First engine, developed a simple head gasket leak - but due to the heads being 4 valves/cylinder and DOHC, as well as shimmed valve clearance, the cost of fixing that leak was going to be $4000. This is $95/hour labor (good import shop, typical CA labor rates) because both heads would need to be torn down and machined flat, to ensure also that the intake would reseat.

So, I found a salvage engine from a late model Tacoma (this was around 2008) involved in a rear end. Shop specializing in that sort of thing took my engine as core, and installed the new one for $2500 bucks. All was well...

Ran Perfect, and would have for 200K except for one problem:

They reused the 10 year old hoses on the engine. Toyota uses those spring clamps - these are fine with new, pliable hoses. But, with the old hoses, there was an imperfect seal on a heater hose, and over time, the motor went low on coolant, and boiled over.... Eventually causing another head gasket leak. I was pissed. The motor never ran hot, it just didn't have a good seal on that hose, which could have been avoided with a $1 hose clamp.

I fixed the motor myself the second time. Yeah, I have mechanic skills, just usually not the time. Set of reman heads ($750) and seal kit and head bolts from Toyota ($700) and about a week of my time and it was running again.

Had I kept it, and had just one more failure, I would have committed Hari Kari!! I just couldn't risk it, especially when I could just buy a late 70's Chevy in Cali with no rust, and slap a new 350 in it for a couple grand for a utility truck.

I sold the T100 15 years old for $5500 bucks.

Might get another one someday.... I learn lessons hard I guess.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Colonel Monk;1789907 said:


> Yeah, 1984 Blazer was the other plow vehicle I have experience with - turned really tight which was key on the farm and property I tended as caretaker. Steep drives and tight corners.
> 
> You have quite an stable of good old north american iron there!! Like I was saying, you can really beat an old chevy when something breaks down. Cheap interchangeable parts - awesome.


You got it...! Some people here don't understand why I do the things I do, but I think you understand... cheap, easy to fix, reliable... rust/corrosion is my worst enemy. I hope the Blazer works half as well as I expect it to!!


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

derekbroerse;1789957 said:


> You got it...! Some people here don't understand why I do the things I do, but I think you understand... cheap, easy to fix, reliable... rust/corrosion is my worst enemy. I hope the Blazer works half as well as I expect it to!!


Of course, I meant "you can't really beat a chevy" that's a typo!

There's no other line of motors out there where all the dang parts are interchangeable and so widely available. If a motor even starts giving you trouble, you can throw a new short/long block and move on, for the cost of troubleshooting newer complicated engines.

Yeah, RUST - jeez 20 years ago, that 84 K5 Blazer was 10 years old, when I was going to college and working as caretaker. I had to get some galvie sheet metal and roofing tar, and a few pounds of self drilling screws to put floors back in the drivers/passengers side, and then I removed the back seat and threw it away, and roofing tarred a piece of plywood on the bed to seal up all the holes that it had - that thing was a rust bucket in 10 years. Rust Never Sleeps!!

I don't recommend the roofing tar - worked great, took months to get rid of the smell!!


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

finn;1789574 said:


> I use a short bed Chevrolet single cab stepside with a Boss plow in the UP. Turns pretty sharply for my tree lined driveway, and it is heavy enough to push quite well. Jeeps don't work well in my experience.
> 
> The Full sized Bronco turns really tight, as a previous poster pointed out, but the newest one is a 1996, and they are real rust buckets. I have one that I was going to turn into a yard plow, but I'm not sure the body is good enough.
> 
> ...


Oh yeah, speaking of yard plow.... I noticed today that the last year our Creep was ever registered was 1993..... So it's been 20 years since it went anywhere but our property. It has touched our road to turn around and clean up the end of the drive, but since the road is named after our family I suppose the fuzz would cut us a break.

I know narrow M+S tires are the fave of commercial plow trucks - and back in the day, before 16+ inch wheels were common, we knew some local guys that got them special just for plowing.... The old off road tires we have are perfect for our drive - it's all dirt, so having the bigger lugs we haven't been stuck in years... Wouldn't recommend them to anybody doing much concrete though.

Last thing - yeah, the Creep is a stick as well. The original owner of it (woman, friend of the family) had to put a clutch in it after the first 25,000 miles..... This one made it thru another woman (my stepmom) and two teenagers (my older brother and I ) and 30 years of plowing. Jeez, my dad went on and on and on about the damn clutch.

How it made it this far, was plowing in low range. First HI is a pretty tall gear, would have torn it right up.

I still make fun of my dad all the time about the clutch....hahaha


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

If you really want to retire the old truck:
Get your self a hardtop jeep and stick 33" mud rubbers under it. yes, narrow is better. and shoot for the inline 6 for the torque rather than V8 but a little 4 would work. Drop 5-600lbs of sand/salt/etc in the back.
I've got a little Suzuki Samurai running 33"s and the same plow & clutch for about 20 years, never in low range but one time. Tags? Funny thing, no one checks while it's snowing. Only thing I destroy is clutch cables. About one every 5 years. Always in the middle...
That little thing can turn around in the length of my full size dodge... excellent driveway tool. Small rigs are too often underrated.
*However, I would fix what you have now. You know what you have. Believe it or not, it's probably cheaper. It works for you. Why change just to change?


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## Colonel Monk (Feb 12, 2014)

gasjr4wd;1790037 said:


> If you really want to retire the old truck:
> Get your self a hardtop jeep and stick 33" mud rubbers under it. yes, narrow is better. and shoot for the inline 6 for the torque rather than V8 but a little 4 would work. Drop 5-600lbs of sand/salt/etc in the back.
> I've got a little Suzuki Samurai running 33"s and the same plow & clutch for about 20 years, never in low range but one time. Tags? Funny thing, no one checks while it's snowing. Only thing I destroy is clutch cables. About one every 5 years. Always in the middle...
> That little thing can turn around in the length of my full size dodge... excellent driveway tool. Small rigs are too often underrated.
> *However, I would fix what you have now. You know what you have. Believe it or not, it's probably cheaper. It works for you. Why change just to change?


Well, since I started this thread, my old man and I have talked about it quite a bit.... At first, the idea was to just but the old Creep out to pasture, sell his F350, and get an older pickup and plow that we could use for plowing, boat towing, and wood hauling.

He decided that maybe he doesn't want to sell F350. I get it! His truck. I let him off the hook, I told him, that if we are plowing on my current budget (which will improve with a job) then we are plowing with the ole Creep!

I should mention too, if I haven't before, that my folks don't live here in the winter anymore. They are getting older, so it's 6 months in MI, 6 months in FL. So really, what happens with the plow truck isn't his problem anymore, which is fine.

Brakes or no Brakes, it's still plowing snow! So, the current plan is to try and get a season or two out of it. It's not road-worthy. I'm hoping to get at least the front brakes working (the rears sound horrible) I guess that will come down to cost.

I found an empty bottle of DOT 5 brake fluid in the cab, Auto parts guy said that was the wrong type, and it's likely that seals in calipers and wheel cylinders are damaged. So if I can get all the brakes apart, we are looking at probably rebuilding them/replacing them all. If we have to do that I'm wondering if there is a way to just bypass the rears - I just need to stop before hitting snowbanks or backing into cars...

Motor is running good, though the oil press seems to die off into the red the longer I run it. Had run alot of Pennzoil before we got it and left lots and lots of black scale in the engine. I'm thinking it's time to drop oil pan and clean the pickup screen. Needs radiator. Otherwise it runs great.

Clutch still works, but I think I'm hearing some noise from throwout bearing - I suppose all of that will just wait till later. I think I'll replace/inspect all ujoints and see if the noise goes away.

The last big project - the rear of the body is 100% toast. Years ago my dad had a guy try to "seal it" against exhaust fumes and critters, which he did with blue foam sandwiched with glue, and shaped to fit the holes like plugs - ridiculous job, and pretty worthless.... Fumes leak in which sucks, and squirrels keep bringing in pine cones....

I'm planning to sawzall the rear of the body off the vehicle. I'll plug the rear of the cab with a piece of plywood, and reuse the rear window. It'll look like hell, but will keep the squirrels out, and maybe then the weak heater will heat up the cab enough to defrost the back window so I can see. It never has, if it's cold the inside of the rear windows you can't see a thing.

I'll use the good steel from the roof back there to fix some holes in the floor in front and it'll be good for another 20 years probably. We have a bunch of scrap lumber I'll make a quick bed in the back for some ballast.

Yeah, not a brilliant project. I figure, if we were going to sell the vehicle with no plow involved, NOBODY would buy it - headed directly to junkyard to be parted out, whatever it's worth. AS a dedicated property plow, in plowing condition, could be worth $500 with non-working brakes. I'm guessing it'll cost a few hundred to get it going right again, and several hours of fooling around.

CM


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Colonel Monk;1790251 said:


> Well, since I started this thread, my old man and I have talked about it quite a bit.... At first, the idea was to just but the old Creep out to pasture, sell his F350, and get an older pickup and plow that we could use for plowing, boat towing, and wood hauling.
> 
> He decided that maybe he doesn't want to sell F350. I get it! His truck. I let him off the hook, I told him, that if we are plowing on my current budget (which will improve with a job) then we are plowing with the ole Creep!
> 
> ...


What are the chances of getting a few pics of this monster? Sounds interesting... lol

As for front brakes only, sure you can, not a problem since its not on the road. Remember, you are in 4wd so all four wheels are locked together, meaning you will stop all four tires with just your two front brakes! The rear line, cut it off and wind it up real tight with visegrips, or find a plug that will fit in the master cylinder... lol crude as hell, but it will work...


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## sublime68charge (Dec 28, 2007)

have you put any thought into like a Polaris Ranger with blade for doing your drive?

get a soft sided cab and a heater and you'll be Good to go.


just an Idea


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## info4tim (Oct 27, 2013)

Diesel_brad;1763378 said:


> I am going to put my $0.02 in here.
> 
> I have an 04 Ranger that i adapted a 94 Western Uni-mount to. I typically have 300-900lbs of weigh at the back and it plows BETTER than a full-size with a 7.5' blade
> 
> ...


what/how did you make the wings? have a 6.8" Meyer for jeep tj would like to do similar work
thx, tim


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## DuramaxLML-42 (Jan 8, 2011)

1990's chevy 1500 blazer would be the best replacement. Im pretty sure its wheel base is just about the same of the jeep. And i mean the full size version with the 5.7L V8. Some even were made with a 6.5 diesel for the military use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-B...a3a92a3f9&item=181371315193&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Heres just an example. Ebay was the fastest. Anyway you can put a full size plow on it and have no issues. Theyre basically a chevy 1500 pickup truck. If you can find a sport model you cant go wrong.


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## info4tim (Oct 27, 2013)

info4tim;1799109 said:


> what/how did you make the wings? have a 6.8" Meyer for jeep tj would like to do similar work
> thx, tim


no I'm asking about how you made the 6" wings


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## Diesel_brad (Sep 20, 2010)

info4tim;1799109 said:


> what/how did you make the wings? have a 6.8" Meyer for jeep tj would like to do similar work
> thx, tim


I used 1/8 sheet steel for the mullboard and used a brake to make the contour.

Then some 3/16 or 1/4" for the "C" that is the vertical uprights

3/16 angle for the horizontal pieces and a 1/4 angle for the bottom where the rubber cutting edge bolts


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## info4tim (Oct 27, 2013)

Diesel_brad;1799176 said:


> I used 1/8 sheet steel for the mullboard and used a brake to make the contour.
> 
> Then some 3/16 or 1/4" for the "C" that is the vertical uprights
> 
> 3/16 angle for the horizontal pieces and a 1/4 angle for the bottom where the rubber cutting edge bolts


Wow Thanx! They really do look store bought!! Had no idea was so involved! thx again


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## Diesel_brad (Sep 20, 2010)

I also added those "torque tubes" to tie the 1st and 2nd up rights together

I tried to mimic the western pin on wings for their pro plows
http://www.snowplowsnj.com/index.as...4763807&gs=1&gclid=CLms5dXR0b0CFYuXOgodh0gATw


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