# ballast ideas for p/u truck



## BIGRED1

I have an 06 2500hd w/8ft x blade, Fisher reccomends 500# ballast. Anyone have any ideas on:
good, 
ez in and out,
clean,
non bed damaging,
cheap, ballast

thanks alot
p.s. I do have some access to some heavy equipment ie, loader, grapple etc..


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## PremierLand

BIGRED1 said:


> I have an 06 2500hd w/8ft x blade, Fisher reccomends 500# ballast. Anyone have any ideas on:
> good,
> ez in and out,
> clean,
> non bed damaging,
> cheap, ballast
> 
> thanks alot
> p.s. I do have some access to some heavy equipment ie, loader, grapple etc..


Its only 500lbs so its not that big of a deal. I was also concerned about ez-in and out. and not bed damaging.

So what I did was bought 12 bags of 50lb salt, Or you can use Sand. I was scared about the salt making the bed rust pre-maturely, so I bought 2 tarps, put them together over the wheel wells, put the bags ontop the tarps, then folded the tarps over to prevent any moisture or leakage coming out of the bags.

I will leave mine in all winter, its only 600, it wont hurt the truck at all, it wont even know its back there.

Since you want to take yours out, you can most likely get one other person and just pull the whole tarp with the salt/sand bags on it.

Or.... I was thinking of getting some big buckets that will hold 50lbs each and get 10 of those and put sand in those and then throw those above the axle.

Hope this helps.

BTW: IMO 500 may not be enough, I have 600 in mine and I think in going to add another 250 or 300, maybe even 400 more.


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## 05DURAMAX

Hey I too have a 2500HD with an X-Blade. I bought the ballast retainer kit from Fisher. They give you simple instructions on how to build a frame out of 2x4s. They supply you with a heavy duty steel frame that along with the 2x4s keeps all the weight behind the rear wheels and up against the tailgate. The dealer I bought the plow from had 66lb sand bags so thats what im using. 
Go on Fishers Web site and look under install instructions I think....There is a picture of the kit. Well worth the money, For the wood and the Fisher part it is less than $150.


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## PSDF350

I'm sorry but are these things work trucks? If so thats what the beds are made for. Damage the beds now i've heard everything. Damn things are made to be scratched and dented. If your that worried have it line-X or rihno lined.


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## PremierLand

PSDF350 said:


> I'm sorry but are these things work trucks? If so thats what the beds are made for. Damage the beds now i've heard everything. Damn things are made to be scratched and dented. If your that worried have it line-X or rihno lined.


Once my truck is paid off, I wont mind as much, lol.


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## PSDF350

My truck isn't paid off either. But I sure aint going to worry about scratching or denting the bed. Like I said thats what there made for. If I was leasing then I might be a little worried. Then again I went that route and still didn't worry. Always figuired a work truck is ment to be used can't be worrying that I might scratch the bed.


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## PremierLand

PSDF350 said:


> My truck isn't paid off either. But I sure aint going to worry about scratching or denting the bed. Like I said thats what there made for. If I was leasing then I might be a little worried. Then again I went that route and still didn't worry. Always figuired a work truck is ment to be used can't be worrying that I might scratch the bed.


True I dont really care about straching or denting the inside of the bed, but I dont want to make it rust out quicker.

Your right, its a work truck, and *****'s gonna happen. Heck, first day I got my truck one of my guys strached the side of the bed up, and the third day I had it, my guy went to fill it up, and slammed the door on the guard rail at the station.

Your right though, the more time you spend worry about the truck getting messed up, the bigger dissappointment you will have when it does get strached.


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## LINY Rob

I use cinder blocks, around 35 pounds each, you can line the bed with them so all you will lose is the height of the blocks, around 8" or so.

I leave them in all winter, easy to still use the bed because you can just put cargo on top of the blocks. I had somewhere between 30-35 of them in there last year, they dont slide around either.

Even though they say to use 500, the extra helps out especially when going site to site when you may not want to use 4 wheel drive because the roads arent all that bad


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## PSDF350

Mark I also hate the idea of scratching or denting my truck. But one thing I have noticed with new trucks is they don't rust like they used to. I have scratches in bed of truck that have been there for a year and it still looks fine no real rust. i think your guy that dinged your truck had the right idea get that first dent out of the way then it isn't such a concern. I know when I first get a new truck that first dent scratch or what have you is always the hardest. After that I start using like it is ment to be.


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## PremierLand

PSDF350 said:


> Mark I also hate the idea of scratching or denting my truck. But one thing I have noticed with new trucks is they don't rust like they used to. I have scratches in bed of truck that have been there for a year and it still looks fine no real rust. i think your guy that dinged your truck had the right idea get that first dent out of the way then it isn't such a concern. I know when I first get a new truck that first dent scratch or what have you is always the hardest. After that I start using like it is ment to be.


Ya, I have a 93 that is rusted all over wheel wells and all that. It has holes in the bed from rust its so bad. I dont want my 01 to be like that in 5 years. LOL. But I guess your right about not rusting like they used to.

Anyway, Let it snow!!!!!!


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## PSDF350

Yea Mark they treat them differantly now. I had a 99 Ford ranger that I backed into a guard rail hard and fast one night about 6 months after getting it. Had it for 3 years and never did anything to fix and it was still shinny metal.


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## Detroitdan

it is galvanized. will rust eventually, but you really have to wear off all the galvy before the metal will start to rust. By then the truck will be worn out anyway. Smartest thing they ever did. I think they started galvanizing body panels in a big way around 93 or 94.


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## Ggg6

I use two car tires filled with concrete, weight will depend on the size of the tire. Mine are about 350# each, I also put a short pipe about 8" long x 1 1/4" dia in them flush with the top of concrete so they can be used as volley ball net stands in the summer, etc. I also put a short length of chain in the concrete leaving a few links out so they can be lifted with a hoist if needed. They can be rolled in or out of the bed rather easily and the rubber tire prevents sliding and denting the bed real bad.


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## scottL

I used sand tubes for years. They would freeze and become like cement. I put a 2x4 behind the rear wheels in the bed to keep them from sliding but, at some point they became missles. This year Itrying water softner salt bags wrapped in an extra garbage bag. They seem not to freeze up and in the spring I will use them in my softner - no storage issues, no disposale issues of the broken sand tubes.


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## paynter2

Are there Menards's stores in your area? Menard's carries 70# tubes of sand. I just bought 4 for the back of my CJ5. They are in really heavy plastic bags (tubes) - the same material used for sand bagging floods.

If no Menards, maybe Home Depot or Lowe's will carry them.


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## douglasl330

There was a recent post on ballast that went way out and had a picture of a porche very entertaining. I made a frame out of 2x6 and use about 10 -5 gal pails filled with sand-- these are covered and wiegh about 60-70 lbs a piece. works pretty slick and have run this setup for at least ten years-- This way you can tweek where you want the wieght--I have a 4' x4' spread out over the rear axle. Works slick and I use radials that are mud and snow so they aren't the most aggressive thread out there and have never been stuck. Have fun! We went out on Turkey day up here!:bluebounc


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## djlouieboom

I Bought The Ballast Kit From Western And Modified Secured It Through The Bed ,.. I Got 6 5 Gal Pails Filled Wit Concrete Works Perfect Easy In Easy Out With 2x4's Reinforcing It


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## yooper.mi

I use the front suitcase weights 72# from a farm tractor, a 2x4 across the back of the wheel well. The weights are about 3" high laid across the bed,they take up little space, leaving the use of box for other things.
Happy Holidays


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## CrazyCooter

Uh, I use thing new stuff they have here, it's called ... sand.

I load it loose in the bed of the truck, can add and remove as needed.

I have a bedliner, so in the spring, I take it out, use rust reformer on any spots, and use black enamel paint (I have a black truck) with a paintbush to cover the rust reformer. Never had any problems.

I have a tarp-eze cover over the whole works, keeps out the majority of the weather, and never have to worry about it freezing, either.

I'm afraid of carrying missles in the back of my truck. Concrete, sand bags, steel, whatever. After you roll a truck (as I have) or have a head-on, you'd rething your choices. Do you want a cement block going through the rear window at 60MPH? Eeek, no thank you.


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## Robhollar

In case you guys havent heard there is a thing out there these days called a bed liner. It keeps you from scratching the paint all up. Gee I thought these things are supposed to be used. Good grief you guys are truck owners now act like one already.....Rob


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## Ian

Everybody has their favorites, but I would never recommend anything that can leave the bed or go through the back window in an accident (especially cement blocks). Never had it happen to me but have seen it, it will scare the s**t out of you.

I use loose sand that is held to the back end of the bed with a 2X8 framework.


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## NEPSJay

get one of these for ballast purposes....:waving:


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## douglasl330

Yep those do work great for ballast!purplebou


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## justme-

NEPSJay said:


> get one of these for ballast purposes....:waving:


Talk about premateurily rotting out your truck!!! NEVER again in my trucks!

The key in ballast is "_behind the real wheels_" If you put it infront of or over the rear wheels you are not accomplishing what it is intended to do. Basic physics- levers and fulcroms.
I used to use the tube sand over the rear wheels (10 of the at 60 lbs each, sometimes 12 or 14 of them) they froze- no big deal as the didn;t leave the bed all season anyway. I made a frame of 2x4's with angles on the corners for reinforcement and chained the frame to the rear cargo tiedowns to prevent it from becoming a missle. No problems. Come spring I stacked them in a corner of the yard until next year- got 3 seasons out of a tube before it was too rotted to lift into the bed again. Just put them in 5 gal plastic pails and going to build a new frame.
This was all evenly spread in front of anf behind the rear wheel for traction and to counter itself (again physics). 
I also use rubbermaid totes to carry my salt and sand for spreading on the customers (usually by hand stuff) against the tailgate which is where ballast needs to be. 2 totes full is about 200lbs each (4 50 lbs bags of salt in a tote) plus extra bags of salt in the middle. I can fit 4 totes across, 2 of each giving me over 500lbs at the gate all the time. This stuff stays in all season- the totes are not going to leak, and I bungee the lids on for safety (they do fly off on the highway if you don't)


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## LINY Rob

if I roll my truck I dont think the cinder blocks are going to make that much of a difference

at that point I want it done for, I dont want any chance of it being fixed, im sure the window will blow out either way, 35lb cinder block wont hurt as much as the roof collapsing on my head.

Maybe Ill look into that sand thing, but what do you do with the loose sand in the spring time?


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## gino

I buy 80# bags (Tube Shaped) of sand at Wallmart. They are packaged in a heavy duty weaved plastic type of material. They can be placed in and out of the truck easily. Plus, you have sand if you need it. They cost about $4.00 per/bag.
g


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## bugthug

just last night my father in law was telling me about some worker at the machine shop he is a manager had a brainstorm. The guy took a train wheel and dumped it right into the back of the truck. yup the truck has a bed liner so its nice and slick.long story short it came through the front of the bed, then the guy got on it and shot the wheel through the tailgate on the ground.
I like to use salt.


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## Lux Lawn

If your that worried about it go to Home Depot and get the Tubes of Sand 60 pounds for $3.50 each.


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## LINY Rob

wouldnt a 60lb bag of sand be just as much if not more of a missle as a 35lb cinder block?


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## fernalddude

Ok guys iam a little lost with this post or have i been doing this to long ? 500lbs in the front but no weight in the back oh and iam worried about a scratch in the bed . It is a work truck thats why you fix them. If you think that your not going to do some damage to them dont get in this line of work things break ,your using it to break thru ice and move tons of snow s**t happens. My b2's carry allmost a ton of added weight thats how i can keep up with largers trucks and out turn them and fit in tight places full size trucks can not,so add some weight or a spreader and salt the rig will preform much better...


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## NEPSJay

justme- said:


> Talk about premateurily rotting out your truck!!! NEVER again in my trucks!
> 
> )


Mines a lease truck....i couldnt care less about rot. I let the next guy worry about it.. besides i never leave salt in it and it gets several washes after its used...that spreader is 2 years old...its that clean cause i take care of her.


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## justme-

What is it whith noone wanting to tie down their ballast?? All trucks have solid rear AND front tiedown points that are accessible with and without a bed liner- use them. Cinder blocks have holes perfect for chaining through for example.
Sand is cheaper, more durable and more useful if you get stuck.

Why use loose sand- contain it in totes, bins, 5 gallon pails, something. As I said I built a wooden frame from 2x4's- 1 each across in front of and behind the wheelwells then 2 between them and another across the center on the bottom. The sand bags on top of the bottom one tend to hold it down against the wheel wells and they keep it from sliding either way more than an inch or two- as it tries to slide it has to slide UP over the wheel well and the weight of all the sandbags keep pulling it back down. That's my traction aide- I will be rebuilding it with higher sides and a plywood bottom to hold the 5 gal pailes for this season.

Make sure your tailgate latches properily then strap the pails, totes, etc against it useing the rear tiedown points and problem of sliding solved.

Free cargo in the bed is a hazard reguardless of what it is- while rolling your truck would suck- it's not what you should be concerned about reguarding ballast- how about sliding off the road and hitting a tree- air bag deploys and saves your life but the loose cinder blocks in the bed (or sand bags) come flying throught the rear window and crush the back of your head. Game over man.

With the totes I use a good rubber bungee cord from the center stake pocket diagonally down around the tote to the rear tiedown anchor secures them from sliding around


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## justme-

NEPSJay said:


> Mines a lease truck....i couldnt care less about rot. I let the next guy worry about it.. besides i never leave salt in it and it gets several washes after its used...that spreader is 2 years old...its that clean cause i take care of her.


I did what I could to take care of my Chevy when I had the sander in her, after the first year or two she started rotting our from under me no matter what I did is seemed. Never putting one on a daily driver for sure. I used to cover my sander load and tried only to load dry sand/salt too. Had to sand and repaint the bed each off season top and bottom.


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## NEPSJay

dont get me wrong....after every storm it costs me a small fortune at the car wash. I think i came up with a pretty good system....if there is any white residue anywhere from salt or from just drivin around, im in the express lane headed to carwash to drop a pile of quarters. i make it a point to take spreader and bed liner out a couple times a month to wash the heck out of them. Ridin around in a clean ride makes me feel better plus its good for biz.. Its nice to get compliments once in a while.


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## scottL

After using those frozen torpedos ( tube sand ) for years and then having to find a spot to dump the rotting slugs - I've gone to bags of water softner salt. Season is over and they go into my basement for use in the water softner. They don't seem to freeze either.


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## justme-

scottL said:


> After using those frozen torpedos ( tube sand ) for years and then having to find a spot to dump the rotting slugs - I've gone to bags of water softner salt. Season is over and they go into my basement for use in the water softner. They don't seem to freeze either.


watch out- those bags often have holes and will leak h20 inside. Been there too. They won't freeze- they're salt. They will leak salt water out the holes and over your truck and they will solidify and "grow" a mold sometimes tho. 
I used to use water softner salt instead of "ice melting" salt because it was cheaper per lbs and bigger pieces lasted longer during a storm I still use it for certain applications or when ice melt is out of stock


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## Grn Mtn

*Exactly what you are looking for*

Reading Snow Magazine I saw an ad that I think is exactly what you are looking for: http://www.shurtrax.com/


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## LINY Rob

unfortunetly my 250sd doesnt have any cleats in the bed, maybe the newer ones do


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## drplow

LINY Rob said:


> I use cinder blocks, around 35 pounds each, you can line the bed with them so all you will lose is the height of the blocks, around 8" or so.
> 
> I leave them in all winter, easy to still use the bed because you can just put cargo on top of the blocks. I had somewhere between 30-35 of them in there last year, they dont slide around either.
> 
> Even though they say to use 500, the extra helps out especially when going site to site when you may not want to use 4 wheel drive because the roads arent all that bad


i find that sand bags are the easiest to use. i use the same ones for three years and then toss them. only $3.00 a piece, it seems safer than blocks and they don't slide around at all. i built a ballast system to hold them and if you get stuck, you could always use them to get out.
i just watched a show on TV that showed what can happen to some objects in the back seat when you get into an accident going at 60mph. it was on myth busters and its something to really watch.


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## RODHALL

I took an old class iv receiver hitch, and 6 foot long piece of 6 inch diameter steel pipe and welded the hitch into the pipe and then filled it with 250 lbs. of concrete. You have to use a cherry picker to pick it up and put it in the class IV receiver. But boy do I pitty the person who hits me in the rear end.

You will find your truck will have more traction and need less ballast , with the weight farther away and little lower then the rear.


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## justme-

Grn Mtn said:


> Reading Snow Magazine I saw an ad that I think is exactly what you are looking for: http://www.shurtrax.com/


These were mentioned here last season, don;t recall if anyone actually tried one tho. Keep in mind OVER the wheels is traction aid BEHIND the rear wheels is ballast. It's only good for up to 400lbs- wonder if you can stack them 2 high...

got to watch for those warm days in the winter- imagine this melting and refreezing while you're parked on a hill....


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## Detroitdan

justme- said:


> These were mentioned here last season, don;t recall if anyone actually tried one tho. Keep in mind OVER the wheels is traction aid BEHIND the rear wheels is ballast. It's only good for up to 400lbs- wonder if you can stack them 2 high...
> 
> got to watch for those warm days in the winter- imagine this melting and refreezing while you're parked on a hill....


 that looks pretty stupid. I don't know how much they cost but it has to be too much. I've always thought of ballast as being weight that you need to install as CHEAPLY as possible. That won't do much over the rear wheels, and you won't be able to do anything with it once it freezes. I had tossed around the idea of mounting a couple 50 gallon plastic juice drums at the back, to fill and refill with water, but I don't want it to freeze and be stuck with it, have to take it out with the chainfall. I'm not even sure it would freeze while driving around sloshing all the time. I thought of adding antifreeze but I want to be able to drain it in my yard.


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## alternative

Use 3 ft precast concrete steps. They work perfect.


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## twodan

*ballast*

i burn a coal stove at home, so i plan on using 10 ea 50lb bags. since i keep the plow in the garage here at work, the bags of coal will sit on a skid when not needed.
dan


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## go plow

what i do in my pickup is i made a frame out of 2x6 lumber that goes between the wheel wells of the truck, then i put a rubber made tote that holds about 600lbs in the frame, the frame holds the tote in place with out it sliding around and you also can use the sand for sidewalks and you still have room to put a snowblower between the tote and the tailgate ..ive been doing this for years never had a problem!!!! put two peices across, then measure the size of your tote and put two pieces to connect the pieces that go across , you might have to cut an angle on the boards, because the wells are not straint up and down... if you need help with them e-mail me [email protected]


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## moosey

Yesyerday I went to my local landscape supply yard and got me 1 yard of Mulch. It diffently helps out. We had snow yesterday after I got the mulch and it helped out. Plus I have some mulch to start off with. No waste.


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