# Hydraulic Spreader Question



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

For the people who use a hydraulic under tailgate spreader.

Do you have a direct drive pump or gear reduction pump.

I'm thinking about putting a gear reduction drive on my truck as when I use the spreader, the auger setting is only at a 1 or 2 (out of 10).

Sometimes the 1 is tedious to spread, and on 2 it can be too much sometimes.

I'm thinking that with a gear reduction I can have a bit more control over my spread and a little more torque to break chunks in cold temps.

If you have a gear reduction, do you like it, and what kind of pump/gearbox is it?

Thanks.

Nick


----------



## mullis56 (Jul 12, 2005)

Tranny driven system and engine clutch pump system...


----------



## twinbrothers (Jan 16, 2009)

I would check to make sure the hose size and pump are compatible with your spreader. Sometimes an incorrectly set up truck will cause problems. Also if this is the only hydraulic spreader you have used, it is not like a little electric tailgate salt usage goes way up.


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

Sorry, realized that I typed pump instead of motor.:whistling:

I've got a belt driven pump off the motor.

Basically I'm looking at a gear reduction gear box and hydraulic motor for the auger. and didn't know if anyone used one and if they liked it or not.

Ultimately I'm trying to get more torque on the auger and better salt output control.


----------



## twinbrothers (Jan 16, 2009)

you will have to do a little math and research a make sure your under the hood pump, lines, motors, are all getting proper flow. example if your return line is not big enough it will still work just not to the fullest. If all that is right than yes that gear reduction motor is supposed to give you more control. Every thing has to work together to get the best results.


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

twinbrothers;1262898 said:


> you will have to do a little math and research a make sure your under the hood pump, lines, motors, are all getting proper flow. example if your return line is not big enough it will still work just not to the fullest. If all that is right than yes that gear reduction motor is supposed to give you more control. Every thing has to work together to get the best results.


Good points, very good points.

To back that thought up; The one thing I notice now is that if my spinner is on full, the more likely the the auger is to jam up with half-way reasonable salt. (no solid salt licks or ice chunks). But, if I turn down the spinner a couple two or three clicks, then the auger will get moving.

That makes me wonder if the flow might be a little low from the pump. I actually called Flink late this afternoon and left a message to the engineer to give me a call and see what he says about the idea of a gear reduction. The photo that I supplied actually came from the Flink web-site.

I'm also worried that if I put a gear reduction on, that I will need to increase the flow to that pump to get the exact speed I need. That will be some math I'll have to work out.

Last fall I called the original truck builder (Koenig) to see if they had pumps in stock, and they stated that there is a high and medium flow pump that would work with the truck, but I need to pull the pump to look at the numbers. Regardless, I need to pull the pump anyway and replace it as it's 10 years old, and use the current one for a spare.

Ultimately, I've got some math to do and to also look into a load control valve also for the spreader to minimize rpm/flow drop when getting off the throttle.


----------



## turn54 (Jan 7, 2010)

White Gardens;1262963 said:


> Good points, very good points.
> 
> To back that thought up; The one thing I notice now is that if my spinner is on full, the more likely the the auger is to jam up with half-way reasonable salt. (no solid salt licks or ice chunks). But, if I turn down the spinner a couple two or three clicks, then the auger will get moving.
> 
> ...


nick, just so you know. I have same problem as you. Also had the truck built the same year as yours from the same place. I've just dealt with it, but know it is not the most efficient. Let me know if you figure anything out.


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

turn54;1262982 said:


> nick, just so you know. I have same problem as you. Also had the truck built the same year as yours from the same place. I've just dealt with it, but know it is not the most efficient. Let me know if you figure anything out.


Ha, Ha! Thanks for chiming in Stephen! Thumbs Up.

It seems like these systems are meant to handle a normal year, and this year was anything but.

Normally most of our snow falls are followed by above freezing temps, but I think we went more than 7 weeks at one time without above freezing temps. Even the best protected and treated salt piles froze up on everyone. Only thing you could do was to store it in heated shops.


----------



## FISHERBOY (Aug 13, 2007)

I hav a belt driven clutch pump on my f-350, for snowstorms i use number 2 on the auger, but when we hav ice or cold temperature i use 3 , and 5 on the spinner i like keeping tight spread patterns. I also use tranny fluid for the whole central system


----------



## twinbrothers (Jan 16, 2009)

sounds like you have got some good ideas to start. Don't worry one of my trucks has the same problems but for the cost to do it right we just keep running it as is.


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

twinbrothers;1263417 said:


> sounds like you have got some good ideas to start. Don't worry one of my trucks has the same problems but for the cost to do it right we just keep running it as is.


What's the problem with your system? To do a few upgrades shouldn't be too expensive.


----------



## twinbrothers (Jan 16, 2009)

to start it is a salt dogg not a frink or swenson. Swenson has a better spread pattern better built as well. the dogg is all left . I have yet to check the whole system but i know my return lines are to small and i don't have power down as well. With a little time and money i could get it better but screw it works good enough i say. hydro lines are expensive


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

I've seen this problem in many trucks this past winter. Found it to be an improperly sized spreader control valve in every situation. What are the numbers of the spreader control valve?


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

1-11 I do believe is on the spreader control, for each knob.

It looks to be a common spreader control between each manufacture/supplier I've looked at.

The size of it could be a possibility, as the truck company that built it might have used the same controller on all the trucks they built.


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

Looking for the part number stamped or etched into the side. On a Danfoss it starts 2FFL, Gresen/Parker starts QD


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

LON;1271588 said:


> Looking for the part number stamped or etched into the side. On a Danfoss it starts 2FFL, Gresen/Parker starts QD


I'll check into it and let you know. That would be interesting if that is the problem.


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

I bet it is a 10 & 30 valve instead of a 7 & 15 like it should be but the numbers will tell the tale.


----------



## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

LON;1272437 said:


> I bet it is a 10 & 30 valve instead of a 7 & 15 like it should be but the numbers will tell the tale.


I'm going to agree with this assumption. I'd start by checking what valves are in your controller. Also your never going to have enough flow to keep your spinner wide open and your chain turned up very high. Even with our front pump it seems we could have more flow at times.


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

Did you guys ever take a look at the numbers on the valve? I still curious as to what they are.

Lon


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

LON;1318567 said:


> Did you guys ever take a look at the numbers on the valve? I still curious as to what they are.
> 
> Lon


No I didn't, I'll have to look tonight and post what I find. Tis the season to be prepared!Thumbs Up


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

Gresson Valve

QDB-75-A07-B16-NA

...


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

White Gardens;1319373 said:


> Gresson Valve
> 
> QDB-75-A07-B16-NA
> 
> ...


It is a 7gpm for spinner / 16gpm for the auger. Standard for the application but tell me, does it say Made in Mexico on it as well? The Mexican ones were JUNK! Had no control of application from them. POOR machining. Had to remove 9 from trucks in the field and remove 6 off the shelf. Gresen's answer to it - "you bought it based on price NOT quality"


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

LON;1319568 said:


> It is a 7gpm for spinner / 16gpm for the auger. Standard for the application but tell me, *does it say Made in Mexico on it as well?* The Mexican ones were JUNK! Had no control of application from them. POOR machining. Had to remove 9 from trucks in the field and remove 6 off the shelf. Gresen's answer to it - "you bought it based on price NOT quality"


Not sure on that one, I'll have to take a look. Where Were the better ones made?

.....


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

White Gardens;1319573 said:


> Not sure on that one, I'll have to take a look. Where Were the better ones made?
> 
> .....


I believe they moved it back to Alabama. Will say Made in USA for sure. If the main relief is 90* to the body it is an early on and should either be replaced with one that the main relief is at more of a 45* angle or change to a Sauer/Danfoss 2FFL valve (best option)


----------



## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

Looked around on-line for the valve, what's the pricing on the 2FFL?

I do believe my relief valve is coming strait out of the valve body, not at a 45* angle.


....


----------



## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

White Gardens;1319586 said:


> Looked around on-line for the valve, what's the pricing on the 2FFL?
> 
> I do believe my relief valve is coming strait out of the valve body, not at a 45* angle.
> 
> ....


PM sent to you


----------

