# 2500 hd all new brake lines



## slimquinella (Jan 9, 2012)

yup today went to check out my brake light, need to replace all the brake lines lucky me, there goes 700 bucks


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

Yep. Been there done that


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## BlizzardBeater (Aug 29, 2010)

Any chance you have the ability to do it yourself? If you are proficient in cutting and flaring brake lines it's a pretty simple job, just time consuming.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

There not bad to do takes me about 4 or 5 hours to do them all. Usualy the bleeders on the calipers are junk too.


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## SNOWANDICEMAN (Sep 11, 2007)

I did mine with the stainless steel lines from inline tube.


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## gmcdan (Nov 4, 2011)

when i do mine i put a coat of por 15 on them .


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

You can buy complete stainless line kits so it's just a bolt in job


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## crazyboy (Feb 3, 2009)

SNOWANDICEMAN;1472791 said:


> I did mine with the stainless steel lines from inline tube.


I'm going to have to do mine sooner than later, and these are what I'm going with. Price isn't unreasonable.


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## slimquinella (Jan 9, 2012)

Joe D;1472798 said:


> You can buy complete stainless line kits so it's just a bolt in job


i got the copper plated nickel lines, It cost a bit for the brake job but i'd rather be with brakes then without brakes


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## sledrider2005 (Nov 8, 2008)

where can i get a full s.s. brakeline kit for a 2500hd crew cab thanks


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

One of my rear lines ruptured a few years ago and I had the rears done, cost me $800. Gotta do the fronts at some point.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

mayhem;1473765 said:


> One of my rear lines ruptured a few years ago and I had the rears done, cost me $800. Gotta do the fronts at some point.[/QUOTE
> 
> Rear brakes or rear lines? A monkey could do the rear lines in an hour. Im guessing u needed alot more then that.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

gmcdan;1472793 said:


> when i do mine i put a coat of por 15 on them .


 No need to do that if u use good brake line.


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## mikelawtown (Dec 5, 2004)

slimquinella;1472747 said:


> yup today went to check out my brake light, need to replace all the brake lines lucky me, there goes 700 bucks


I went out this morning with 26inches on the road and before i got out of driveway i lost a line. And lost alot of $$$


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

sledrider2005;1473105 said:


> where can i get a full s.s. brakeline kit for a 2500hd crew cab thanks


Look up Classic tube or Inline tube. I've done a 2500 hd a few times. Not worth the hassle to make them when you can buy perfect lines for basically a hundred or so more than cost. I use Classic. Great product but their communication stinks. Usually 1 week on Chevy. Best to call.


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## Grambo170 (Jan 6, 2013)

I purchased my truck from a dealer in May 2012 truck in for service June 2012 brake line ruptured on dealer replaced line and all new calipers due to severe rusted in, 2nd brake line rupture July 2012 returned to dealer ask if needed replace all brake lines they only did the ruptured one. September 2012 had to do an emergency stop for oncoming police vehicle third brake line ruptured and hit vehicle in front of me, Luckily for me the other drive was in a real rush and didn't want to talk about it, says no damage and leaves. Back to dealer and what a discussion I had with the general manager,in the end all brake line in entire truck replaced. NO COST .....My truck is a 2006 silverado 2500HD crew cab.

So everyone know you should go to the NTSHA web site and file your truck under complaints and keep all receipts of work done. Hopefully they will do a recall and maybe get some money back.


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

6-8 years is the range on east coast trucks. It should be made good practice to replace at 5 years from my experience.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

shovelracer;1592597 said:


> 6-8 years is the range on east coast trucks. It should be made good practice to replace at 5 years from my experience.


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## hammerstein (Feb 2, 2007)

I just replaced the rear line on my 06 2500 with 19,000 miles. I also noticed a small fuel leak on the lines to the engine so I put those on also. I sprayed all lines with fluid film probably a little late but couldn't hurt. Taking the bed off made the rear line very easy. There is no reason that these should be leaking this soon.


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## icudoucme (Dec 3, 2008)

slimquinella;1472747 said:


> yup today went to check out my brake light, need to replace all the brake lines lucky me, there goes 700 bucks


What year and how many miles? Mine is a 04 2500hd and had 100,200. I replaced with SS. Fuel lines might need it in the neck few months


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

Lines do not know miles, all they know is time of exposure.


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## mikelawtown (Dec 5, 2004)

Called classic, have a full set of SS coming......Whats next????


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## mikelawtown (Dec 5, 2004)

mikelawtown;1595200 said:


> Called classic, have a full set of SS coming......Whats next????


Finally got installed and i dont want to drive the truck because they look so good i would hate to get them dirty.....well worth 350


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

Guess i'm getting hosed. I had lost a rear line and kept ignoring it (i know, bad idea) because I had done my last truck ('88) and had a hard time ponying up the $ for this one but didn't want to deal with the ABS mess they created. 

Well driving home the other day I lost something else and had NO brakes at all. Had it towed to a friends used car dealership and the garage they partner with for service is making every hard line with new copper-nickel for $1200 including changing rear pads. I just pray he can get the bleeders out. Seems like I would have been better off ordering the SS stuff and at least dropping it off if not just doing it myself...


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## RLM (Jan 12, 2006)

JFon101231;1805723 said:


> Guess i'm getting hosed. I had lost a rear line and kept ignoring it (i know, bad idea) because I had done my last truck ('88) and had a hard time ponying up the $ for this one but didn't want to deal with the ABS mess they created.
> 
> Well driving home the other day I lost something else and had NO brakes at all. Had it towed to a friends used car dealership and the garage they partner with for service is making every hard line with new copper-nickel for $1200 including changing rear pads. I just pray he can get the bleeders out. Seems like I would have been better off ordering the SS stuff and at least dropping it off if not just doing it myself...


I would evaluate that "friend" word the shop we use charges roughly $ 300 for copper/nickel brake line replace, that's all the lines. I've started using him for most of our stuff, as stuff gets bad he is now switching the brake lines to cooper/nickel, fuel & transmission are getting vinyl we are hopefully going to alleviate the lines as a rot out every year or two issue.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

JFon101231;1805723 said:


> Guess i'm getting hosed. I had lost a rear line and kept ignoring it (i know, bad idea) because I had done my last truck ('88) and had a hard time ponying up the $ for this one but didn't want to deal with the ABS mess they created.
> 
> Well driving home the other day I lost something else and had NO brakes at all. Had it towed to a friends used car dealership and the garage they partner with for service is making every hard line with new copper-nickel for $1200 including changing rear pads. I just pray he can get the bleeders out. Seems like I would have been better off ordering the SS stuff and at least dropping it off if not just doing it myself...


Ouch

I charge 6 hours of labor to run all new lines out of the abs module. Plus materials.

1200 isn't that bad if he's doing rear brakes as well. That's usually $3-400


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

This is insane that you guys are willing to pay out this kind of money for basic maintenance and repair items!!! SO glad I made a point of learning all this as a teenager, and took auto shop in high school as well. You can buy a really nice flaring kit for under a hundred bucks (and if you are careful with it will have it for a lifetime!) and coils of tubing are cheap cheap cheap--don't buy the plain stuff unless you enjoy practicing flaring every two years or so... personally I have been using the poly-coated stuff and having great success with it (I also oil spray underneath yearly and wash regularly)...but that nickle-copper stuff is supposed to be even better I hear? Stainless is better yet, but more spendy and harder to work with. If the actual making of lines is too advanced then buy the pre made stainless kits and bolt em in and never touch em again. But pads and rotors and such--really no excuse why anyone with basic hand tools can't do them at home in the driveway.

Seriously, those of you that don't know how to do this sort of thing would really benefit from taking a cheap night school auto shop class or two. Think of it as an investment in your future... cars and trucks are not rocket science at all.

I don't see how anyone could really turn a profit plowing snow and salting if they have to pay those kind of numbers for basic repair work--since there is always SOMETHING corroding away on a plow truck!

Something to consider!!!


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Running brake lines and flares is easy. The issue is on new style gms he need to bleed abs module. Most people are going to buy a scanner to do that


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Seriously, you need a scanner to bleed the brakes? Idiotic design... 

Now are we talking about a $30 Snap-on special? Or the $100-300 hand held you can buy at the local parts store? Because if you are gonna own vehicles one of those is a good investment too.


Regardless, that doesn't stop anyone from doing the manual (expensive) labour at home and sending it off to the shop for a quick (and therefore cheap) bleeding...

Another reason for me to stick to old-school...


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

derekbroerse;1806447 said:


> Seriously, you need a scanner to bleed the brakes? Idiotic design...
> 
> Now are we talking about a $30 Snap-on special? Or the $100-300 hand held you can buy at the local parts store? Because if you are gonna own vehicles one of those is a good investment too.
> 
> ...


Neither you need one that can communicate both ways. Mine was $3500. Snap on solus,modis, verdict etc can do it. Needs to be dealer level access

Auto enginuity can do it. I have that too think it was $600 plus laptop

I got out of if so sold scanner and kept laptop


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

You can bleed the brakes at the caliper. But it won't get the air out of the module. Gms been like that for at least 10 years


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## willie07 (Jan 2, 2009)

Gm is not the only one, ford and others need the abs modual bleed with a scan tool.


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## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

Replaced all the lines on my 04 chevy with nicop last fall. I bled the brakes without going to dealer and having them do it, no issue.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

leigh;1806493 said:


> Replaced all the lines on my 04 chevy with nicop last fall. I bled the brakes without going to dealer and having them do it, no issue.


Sometimes. It's not always like that.

I say about 3/4 of them I've done I had to do the module. The module is done last after bleeding each caliper.


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## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

Whiffyspark;1806495 said:


> Sometimes. It's not always like that.
> 
> I say about 3/4 of them I've done I had to do the module. The module is done last after bleeding each caliper.


I guess I "lucked out", very unusual for me!


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

I guess it would be too damn easy for the module just to have a manual bleeder on it?

I swear they do things like this to force people to take it to their shop... that and the damn lawyers.


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## crazyboy (Feb 3, 2009)

Do it the ******* way, find a slick street and hit the brakes hard a few times so the ABS kicks in. :laughing:


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

On ABS bleeding: The cheapest tool you can use to initiate ABS bleeding is a brake-specific scan tool, generally $175 or so IIRC. Most manufacturers require it. _Some_ have official alternate procedures, and sometimes there are DIY workaround procedures...but often you can replace lines without introducing air into the ABS module, so old-fashioned bleeding will suffice.



 derekbroerse;1806443 said:


> But pads and rotors and such--really no excuse why anyone with basic hand tools can't do them at home in the driveway.


Customer states "I just did the brakes and they're making noise. Can you resurface the rotors?"









See also
http://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/search?q=brake&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all
and
http://www.safebraking.com/top-ten-brake-job-mistakes-pads-rotors-calipers



> I don't see how anyone could really turn a profit plowing snow and salting if they have to pay those kind of numbers for basic repair work--since there is always SOMETHING corroding away on a plow truck!


Joking and worrying about mistakes aside, that's very true...I really can't imagine doing sustainable business plowing without doing most of your maintenance/repairs yourself.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Hahahaha ok I take back the comment that ANYBODY can do brakes.... how about I replace it with ANYBODY WITH HALF A BRAIN?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

They weren't capable of abs when I had them. I had all the small launch ones I liked them


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

derekbroerse;1806443 said:


> This is insane that you guys are willing to pay out this kind of money for basic maintenance and repair items!!! SO glad I made a point of learning all this as a teenager, and took auto shop in high school as well. (Deleted for space).. If the actual making of lines is too advanced then buy the pre made stainless kits and bolt em in and never touch em again. But pads and rotors and such--really no excuse why anyone with basic hand tools can't do them at home in the driveway.
> 
> (Deleted)
> 
> I don't see how anyone could really turn a profit plowing snow and salting if they have to pay those kind of numbers for basic repair work--since there is always SOMETHING corroding away on a plow truck!


Wow - stepped away for a bit.

As I said, I did my last truck so easy on the preaching. I figured it would take a little time to bend lines and that was why I kept putting it off and completely forgot about the premade SS lines for $350. During the week it died I could make more money with my time than what id have saved by doing it myself. That's the way it goes sometimes. If I had thought of the premade stuff before that week I would have done it myself.

He only did rear pads no rotors etc, and it was $100 of the price. Figuring it would be $40 for me to get the pads anyway it wasn't worth it to do that myself.

Otherwise in general yes I agree - working on your vehicles is a necessity if you run older equipment or it just doesn't pay off.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

theholycow;1806928 said:


> On ABS bleeding: The cheapest tool you can use to initiate ABS bleeding is a brake-specific scan tool, generally $175 or so IIRC. Most manufacturers require it. _Some_ have official alternate procedures, and sometimes there are DIY workaround procedures...but often you can replace lines without introducing air into the ABS module, so old-fashioned bleeding will suffice.
> 
> Customer states "I just did the brakes and they're making noise. Can you resurface the rotors?"
> 
> ...


Ha ha also looks like no one used no brake grease on the pads no wonder they make noise.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

I no longer use the nickel copper lines on theses trucks I buy the complete coated pre bent brake line kit from the dealer its about 90 bucks takes about 5 hours to do on a real bad day its a 5 to 600 dollar job.And ive still never had to use my tech 2 to bleed the brakes.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

nice, one pad in backwards.....


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## f7firecat (Jun 30, 2014)

brad96z28;1807050 said:



> I no longer use the nickel copper lines on theses trucks I buy the complete coated pre bent brake line kit from the dealer its about 90 bucks takes about 5 hours to do on a real bad day its a 5 to 600 dollar job.And ive still never had to use my tech 2 to bleed the brakes.


Any tricks you can share in regards to the right front install and the rear line over the fuel tank? Thanks


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Easier if you have lift. Loosen fuel tank straps and you should be able to get it out. Honestly most of the time we just cut the old line behind the tank and left it there 

Rf goes across top of frame in the front if I remember right. Pry bar to get them out of the plastic holding clips


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## f7firecat (Jun 30, 2014)

I cut the old one already and plan to leave in place behind the tank, just fee the new one behind the tank? Have a full tank of fuel?. I did see one other post about removing body mount on driver side, to do the front line? I am going with the dealer pre-bent rubberized kit for $90


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Just tape the end of the new line, and feed it through tbe frame and call it a day


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

dieselss;1813815 said:


> Just tape the end of the new line, and feed it through tbe frame and call it a day


Yep. That's what I did most of the time. Zip tie it too keep it from rattling.

Never removed a body mount for any brake work. That's the problem with researching on the internet. It's seems like when you ask a question you always find the answer of someone that has no clue what they are doing lol


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## f7firecat (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks guy's !


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## ajracing81 (Dec 19, 2010)

Yup gm line kit is the best way to go . Got mine for $65 can't even start to buy a roll and make your own for that. I still can't get over people spending $300 for lines!


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

GM line kit is the way to go if you want to replace them again in another 3 years. Inlinetube is the only way to go.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

ajracing81;1814211 said:


> Yup gm line kit is the best way to go . Got mine for $65 can't even start to buy a roll and make your own for that. I still can't get over people spending $300 for lines!


Where are you getting the kit for $65? I want in on that!


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

lilweeds;1814524 said:


> GM line kit is the way to go if you want to replace them again in another 3 years. Inlinetube is the only way to go.


Omg what could you possibly be doing to COATED brake lines to make them rot after only 3 years????? I still see ones ive done 10 years ago when polly coated brake line first came out and still look great.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

theholycow;1815534 said:


> Where are you getting the kit for $65? I want in on that!


List from gm is only around 80 dollars. The place I buy mine from is a local ac delco warehouse and there LIST price is only $60. With my shop discount its even less the kits only vary by about 3 dollars depending on cab and configuration and if it has the hvy body raise code. People got to be off the rocker to pay $300. Once or twice the kit I needed has been backordered because people finally realize these are available, and I have to buy a roll of nickel copper wich comes about to the same price one but not after you add up all the fittings.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

brad96z28;1816023 said:


> List from gm is only around 80 dollars. The place I buy mine from is a local ac delco warehouse and there LIST price is only $60. With my shop discount its even less the kits only vary by about 3 dollars depending on cab and configuration and if it has the hvy body raise code. People got to be off the rocker to pay $300. Once or twice the kit I needed has been backordered because people finally realize these are available, and I have to buy a roll of nickel copper wich comes about to the same price one but not after you add up all the fittings.


Does $65 include all the metal lines? That's a great price.

And you can reuse fittings if you want


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

brad96z28;1816022 said:


> Omg what could you possibly be doing to COATED brake lines to make them rot after only 3 years????? I still see ones ive done 10 years ago when polly coated brake line first came out and still look great.


The GM ones don't come coated.... They're plain steel the last I checked.


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## f7firecat (Jun 30, 2014)

lilweeds;1816050 said:


> The GM ones don't come coated.... They're plain steel the last I checked.


They are coated, just purchased two weeks ago


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

So. Then in the end its more expensive to buy the dealer ones. Only b/c your gunna be doing them again in 3 years. Makes no sense


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## f7firecat (Jun 30, 2014)

dieselss;1816052 said:


> So. Then in the end its more expensive to buy the dealer ones. Only b/c your gunna be doing them again in 3 years. Makes no sense


No way your are replacing these every three years. I live in the snowbelt and ran this thing through years of salt brine traveling all over in the winter months, OEM lines lasted 12 years, the replacement ones are coated, I will not be replacing again as these will out last the 2002 truck


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

brad96z28;1816023 said:


> List from gm is only around 80 dollars. The place I buy mine from is a local ac delco warehouse and there LIST price is only $60. With my shop discount its even less the kits only vary by about 3 dollars depending on cab and configuration and if it has the hvy body raise code. People got to be off the rocker to pay $300. Once or twice the kit I needed has been backordered because people finally realize these are available, and I have to buy a roll of nickel copper wich comes about to the same price one but not after you add up all the fittings.


Wow. I will have to check that. Last time I checked, GM specified and supplied only bulk line and fittings, no pre-bent pre-flared kits.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

Found it. For my 2002 K1500 extended cab:
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-22933215-Original-Equipment-Hydraulic/dp/B00H91S6LI
Part # 22933215 
$47.74

Also $57.90 at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com and $63.01 at http://www.gmpartseast.com and $61.79 at Rockauto.

Rockauto also has a photo...which shows only a single line, not a kit.









So, am I on the right track? Us mere mortals don't have as easy a time looking this stuff up as you guys in the biz do.


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## ajracing81 (Dec 19, 2010)

They come as a gm brake line kit just need the last 8 of your vin there coated so I hope they will do the job. There pre bent just have to unbend the ones that are to long for the box .


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

lilweeds;1816050 said:


> The GM ones don't come coated.... They're plain steel the last I checked.


Well you have not checked for a long time because its old news that the ones from gm are COATED as I have said on here 3 times now. Ive installed enough to know this.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Whiffyspark;1816024 said:


> Does $65 include all the metal lines? That's a great price.
> 
> And you can reuse fittings if you want


Ne need to use old fittings they come with the correct new fittings on the new COATED pre bent lines. Includes all the 1/4 in lines. just not the 3/16 on the rear axle.


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

Impressive just doing 2002 lines now. My 06 rusted out two years ago. I'd still stay stainless, less trouble.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

lilweeds;1816572 said:


> Impressive just doing 2002 lines now. My 06 rusted out two years ago. I'd still stay stainless, less trouble.


 Less trouble how?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

I thpught ss was more trouble due to special fittings and not as tight of bends.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

theholycow;1816075 said:


> Found it. For my 2002 K1500 extended cab:
> http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-22933215-Original-Equipment-Hydraulic/dp/B00H91S6LI
> Part # 22933215
> $47.74
> ...


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

brad96z28;1816613 said:


> Less trouble how?


Let's put it this way.... I am currently replacing my dad's 07.5 lines which were coated from the factory. I did my 06 last year. His truck has never plowed a day in it's life, so in all reality his coated lines were not as good as my factory non coated lines. Again I'll stick with inline tube.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

theholycow;1817485 said:


> When I posted that, it was just theoretical. I had a mechanic replace all my brake lines a scant few years ago when I didn't relish the idea of trying to bend and flare them all myself and the only kit I could find was $350.
> 
> Since that post, two have failed again so I'm looking at this more seriously.
> 
> ...


Shortly after that post my car broke and fixing that brake line was faster than fixing the car. I forgot, 1/4" doesn't bother me, it's 3/8" that I hate bending, but I have better tools than last time I tried anyway so I could do it if I needed. Anyway, I went ahead and replaced that section of brake line.

Today the kit that I ordered arrived. I'm impressed. It's a box with a tangle of pre-bent, pre-flared lines, not packed particularly well but all appear intact. I don't want to make a mess in the office so I'm not taking it apart but it looks like a very complete kit, probably 7 to 10 pieces. I _thought_ I counted 9 but it's tough with them all tangled up in each other. The box is 5 feet long. The lines are painted a nice black that I hope is corrosion-resistant.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

lilweeds;1818993 said:


> Let's put it this way.... I am currently replacing my dad's 07.5 lines which were coated from the factory. I did my 06 last year. His truck has never plowed a day in it's life, so in all reality his coated lines were not as good as my factory non coated lines. Again I'll stick with inline tube.


 Id like to figure out how you got the only 2 trucks that gm made with coated lines because they never coated them back then id love to see a pic of that.


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## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

Regardless of personal preference, always good to have a roll of nicop handy.Blew a line in the front yard of a customer. Got rescued by wife,drove back with a friend,replaced section of line and got home by 7 pm. Imagine the cost of towing dump 30 miles and repair cost. Had to throw out my shirt though, 15$. Total cost 15$. Hopefully I'll find time to replace all lines before plow season.


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

brad96z28;1819902 said:


> Id like to figure out how you got the only 2 trucks that gm made with coated lines because they never coated them back then id love to see a pic of that.


They started coming coated with the newer body style. Think I'm making it up with the 07.5? My 06 was not. Irregardless the coasting doesn't help.


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