# Got my new truck, it broke already



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Got the gas 02 F350. Sits effin high, litterally have to climb into it. its awesome. cant wait to fill the bed full of stuff.

The tensioner pulley went out on the way home, I made it home. Its an easy fix. I discovered a leaking seal in the front diff. at least i hope its the diff, its good and went, rust and gunk around the seal and i cant find anything wet above it. Seal should be cheap.

4x4 light won't go off, 4x4 works, but as fords are, effing annoying, i miss my dodge.

no ac :realmad:

one of the feet of the ultra mount is broken, will be a chinch to weld back into place and grind smooth.

think it needs shocks as it vibrates on the highway.

a little work to do on it, but itl be more reliable than my truck by far.


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## BC Handyman (Dec 15, 2010)

it starts already...... good luck with this one bird, hope you does you good, what about a plow?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Came with an ultramount. 7.5 with some old pro wings i can install.

what do you mean by "it starts already"?


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## BC Handyman (Dec 15, 2010)

I mean the saga of your new truck of course. 7.5 with wings, gas 250....good job Bird, what you pay? under your $6500 budget? you can't just tell us you got a new truck & plow, you got to post pics of her, him, it.


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Vibrating down the highway isn't shocks. It's either tire road force/balance issues or u-joints.


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

think it needs shocks as it vibrates on the highway.

It could also be the steering stabilizer if it has one . Bad tires will do this too


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

birddseedd;1691315 said:


> 4x4 light won't go off, 4x4 works* Here's the cause of your vibration. *
> 
> one of the feet of the ultra mount is broken, will be a chinch to weld back into place and grind smooth.


Just order a replacement foot and keep the mount quick and functional.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

BC Handyman;1691326 said:


> I mean the saga of your new truck of course. 7.5 with wings, gas 250....good job Bird, what you pay? under your $6500 budget? you can't just tell us you got a new truck & plow, you got to post pics of her, him, it.


oh. yea.i can see why some companies buy all new equipment, trucks and all, brand new every 2 years. used is always a head ach.

350, not 250

paid 8500 total. since it came with the plow. ultra mount will be nice. might take it off and on just for kicks. see if i can do it under 2 minutes 

I would like to switch it out for an 8'. but i can deal with it this year. although by the time im ready for a bigger plow, i might simply upgrade to a much newer truck.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

You start pushing snow, and you will never want to drive that Dodge again.

First chance you get, dump that girl plow for a 9' Fisher.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

mnglocker;1691330 said:


> Just order a replacement foot and keep the mount quick and functional.


Thats the weird part, the 4x4 is off. can spin the back wheels and front don't move. even have the lockers off. and in 4x4 it vibrates at 50 mph, without 4x4 it starts at 65.

im gonna take it to my mechanic to have a look over. i know the shocks need replacing, but he will be able to tell me what all it needs.

oh, forgot, plow has a leaky fitting. will have my shop heat it up then i should be able to replace it for a few bucks. all the rest looked to be fine.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Buswell Forest;1691332 said:


> You start pushing snow, and you will never want to drive that Dodge again.
> 
> First chance you get, dump that girl plow for a 9' Fisher.


suppose i could do that and then have one of my subs do the drives. would get done quicker. but after the repairs im not sure i want to invest more this year.


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## BC Handyman (Dec 15, 2010)

birddseedd;1691331 said:


> oh. yea.i can see why some companies buy all new equipment, trucks and all, brand new every 2 years. used is always a head ach.
> 
> 350, not 250
> 
> ...


yes sorry 350, ya i'd buy new every 3-4 years if I could afford it.
8500, that sounds good & affordable, I almost timed myself putting on my plow yesterday aswell, glad i didnt caus eI couldnt push into it cause of the ice on the road. 
Post up those pics Bird, we all want to see it!!!


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

birddseedd;1691333 said:


> Thats the weird part, the 4x4 is off. can spin the back wheels and front don't move. even have the lockers off. *The lockouts are just autohubs that you can lock in full time. There's a chance they aren't actually disengaging.
> With the 4x4 selector set to 2wd, can you spin the front drive shaft by hand under the truck? If not, your hubs are sticking.
> *
> 
> ...


*It's all leaf springs on that thing, shocks last forever on that kind of suspension. *


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

BC Handyman;1691336 said:


> yes sorry 350, ya i'd buy new every 3-4 years if I could afford it.
> 8500, that sounds good & affordable, I almost timed myself putting on my plow yesterday aswell, glad i didnt caus eI couldnt push into it cause of the ice on the road.
> Post up those pics Bird, we all want to see it!!!


Agreed, we want to see pics. Could you start up a new thread and title it something like "my new f-350"? Hope you have good luck with it.


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

Mine is all leafs and the shocks didn't last forever. I changed them at 80,000 and it rides 100% better.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

mnglocker;1691337 said:


> *It's all leaf springs on that thing, shocks last forever on that kind of suspension. *


Ill check that in a few when i go out to get some pics. was pretty late when i got back.

im a little confsued about the lockers. with the lockers off, the hubs are compleetly disconnected from the drive train correct? even in 4x4, the axle will spin, but the wheel will not. ?

if so, what is the point in having them. im told it saves gas, but, if your diff is disconnected from the drive chain, it doesnt matter if the diff spins, from inertia, its disconnected from the drive train, it has 0 load on the engine. the only gas savings (im told this is fords reason for them) would be friction inside the diff.


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

be thankfull you have manual hubs.


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## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

My truck did that too, It ended up just being a 4x4 actuator motor or something, it wasnt the kind with the lever on the floor though. What is the truck more specifically? miles and configuration


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## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

and the other things are all things that you should have checked before buying it


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)




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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)




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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Jguck25;1691362 said:


> My truck did that too, It ended up just being a 4x4 actuator motor or something, it wasnt the kind with the lever on the floor though. What is the truck more specifically? miles and configuration


f350, 5.4L, 85k miles. new oil cooler and couple things. good tires. no frills, crank windows and such. not even a tape deck.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

mnglocker;1691337 said:


> *It's all leaf springs on that thing, shocks last forever on that kind of suspension. *


Leaf, coil, torsion bar, whatever... makes no difference as far as shock absorbers go. Shock absorbers wear as a result of the suspension cycling up and down. If you drive exclusively on smooth pavement, they last longer than if you drive exclusively on bumpy gravel.


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## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

Looks as if you are missing something between the two front seats?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

mnglocker;1691337 said:


> *It's all leaf springs on that thing, shocks last forever on that kind of suspension. *


Front drive shaft spins freely.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691351 said:


> Ill check that in a few when i go out to get some pics. was pretty late when i got back.
> 
> im a little confsued about the lockers. with the lockers off, the hubs are compleetly disconnected from the drive train correct? even in 4x4, the axle will spin, but the wheel will not. ?


Careful with terminology, you can confuse people. Most of the time when referring to "lockers", people are referring to a device in the vehicle's differential that locks the two half-shafts together. Locking hubs are quite different, but yeah, you got it. Unlock them to keep the front shafts from turning.



> if so, what is the point in having them. im told it saves gas, but, if your diff is disconnected from the drive chain, it doesnt matter if the diff spins, from inertia, its disconnected from the drive train, it has 0 load on the engine. the only gas savings (im told this is fords reason for them) would be friction inside the diff.


You would be surprised how much friction there is inside a diff. To start with, the axles and diff are all quite heavy, so any time you accelerate them, whether it be directly from the engine, or via the road, there is the change of inertia. Add to that the nice thick syrupy 90 weight gear oil (especially thick when its cold out...), and it will take a considerable amount of power. You also tend to increase the lifespan of various bearings, cv joints, and other moving things, when you don't move them.


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## BC Handyman (Dec 15, 2010)

looks good Bird, will be a good plow truck. good luck with it


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Bossman 92;1691381 said:


> Looks as if you are missing something between the two front seats?


Thats where my tool box goes.

Thought about putting some dodge seats in it, but probably wont keep it long enough to care


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

birddseedd;1691373 said:


> f350, 5.4L, 85k miles. new oil cooler and couple things. good tires. no frills, crank windows and such. not even a tape deck.


85k you should expect to do ball joints, brakes and front wheels bearings in the very near future. You better have about $900.00 ready for the parts.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jasonv;1691383 said:


> Careful with terminology, you can confuse people. Most of the time when referring to "lockers", people are referring to a device in the vehicle's differential that locks the two half-shafts together. Locking hubs are quite different, but yeah, you got it. Unlock them to keep the front shafts from turning.
> 
> You would be surprised how much friction there is inside a diff. To start with, the axles and diff are all quite heavy, so any time you accelerate them, whether it be directly from the engine, or via the road, there is the change of inertia. Add to that the nice thick syrupy 90 weight gear oil (especially thick when its cold out...), and it will take a considerable amount of power. You also tend to increase the lifespan of various bearings, cv joints, and other moving things, when you don't move them.


why is ford the only truck that uses them?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

BUFF;1691389 said:


> 85k you should expect to do ball joints, brakes and front wheels bearings in the very near future. You better have about $900.00 ready for the parts.


I was thinking the vibrations could be from bad wheel bearings. but it doesnt really feel like a bad bearing. iv read it could be shocks, bent drive shaft.

no idea.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

BC Handyman;1691385 said:


> looks good Bird, will be a good plow truck. good luck with it


Thanks. its gonna be nice having a decent plow and truck. and one big enough to actualy work.

ill miss my old plow, but itl sure be nice having something reliable.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691390 said:


> why is ford the only truck that uses them?


It used to be that *all* trucks had them, then the car makers started catering to the pansies and put electric disconnects on the shaft, which increases fuel consumption and decreases reliability.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691392 said:


> I was thinking the vibrations could be from bad wheel bearings. but it doesnt really feel like a bad bearing. iv read it could be shocks, bent drive shaft.
> 
> no idea.


Shock absorbers shouldn't be causing vibrations. What a bad shock will cause is BOUNCING. Like when you watch a car drive over a bump, it'll hit the bump, bounce once, and smooth out right away. With bad shocks, it'll hit the bump, and keep bouncing for a while as it keeps going down the road.

Wheel bearings very often will vibrate more or less as you steer left, straight or right (even a small amount). If yours vibrates the same regardless of steering, my first guess would be something else. Still a possibility, even if it does not exhibit this characteristic.

Another two very common vibrations are;
wheel balancing (vibrations will usually kick in around 60 MPH / 100 KPH),
driveshaft U-joint (vibrations will start at very low speed and keep increasing as you go faster).


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jasonv;1691401 said:


> Shock absorbers shouldn't be causing vibrations. What a bad shock will cause is BOUNCING. Like when you watch a car drive over a bump, it'll hit the bump, bounce once, and smooth out right away. With bad shocks, it'll hit the bump, and keep bouncing for a while as it keeps going down the road.
> 
> Wheel bearings very often will vibrate more or less as you steer left, straight or right (even a small amount). If yours vibrates the same regardless of steering, my first guess would be something else. Still a possibility, even if it does not exhibit this characteristic.
> 
> ...


if its a u joint, i should be able to feel play in it by hand?


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

Nice plow truck birddseedd, with a little tlc & $ put into it like we have all done/doing, it will be a better plow truck. I would keep that truck. F350 is a great plow truck.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691403 said:


> if its a u joint, i should be able to feel play in it by hand?


Not always.
Problem is that you turn the ujoint a little bit and it can tighten up on you, making it hard to detect play. Turn it a bit more and it loosens up.

The foolproof way to detect vibrations from the rear driveline is to actually remove the driveshaft, cork the seal on the back of the transmission, and take it for a drive in 4-wheel-drive, which will in this case, be front wheel drive. If the vibration goes away, its coming from the driveshaft = ujoint.

But by all means, try very hard to find a loose ujoint if you can, because its not a fun time taking the shaft off. It does not take much looseness to cause a serious vibration.


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## jomama45 (Dec 25, 2008)

jasonv;1691410 said:


> The foolproof way to detect vibrations from the rear driveline is to actually remove the driveshaft, cork the seal on the back of the transmission, and take it for a drive in 4-wheel-drive, which will in this case, be front wheel drive. If the vibration goes away, its coming from the driveshaft = ujoint.


:laughing:


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Vibrations.....tires, start there. Where's the vibration mainly coming from ?


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Congrats on the new truck, birdman. Get those few things worked out and you won't miss your Dodge anymore.


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

dieselss;1691416 said:


> Vibrations.....tires, start there. Where's the vibration mainly coming from ?


Dieselss is correct. wheels/tires should be your starting point with vibations.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

dieselss;1691416 said:


> Vibrations.....tires, start there. Where's the vibration mainly coming from ?


Hard to tell. just feels like the whole truck.


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

Wheels need to be balanced, start there.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

jomama45;1691413 said:


> :laughing:


You're clearly the type of person who hands it over to a shop to fix for you. How do you think THEY figure it out? This is a very common diagnostics technique for 4wd vehicles.

Have a look at page 3 in the red box: http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_ServiceBulletins/sb0249T12.PDF


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

jasonv;1691438 said:


> You're clearly the type of person who hands it over to a shop to fix for you. How do you think THEY figure it out? This is a very common diagnostics technique for 4wd vehicles.


Well said. Jasonv.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691421 said:


> Hard to tell. just feels like the whole truck.


Start by just ROTATING your tires. If it is a tire balancing problem, rotating will make it either better (if the unbalanced tire is moved from front to back) or worse (unbalanced tire moved from back to front).


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## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

birddseedd;1691421 said:


> Hard to tell. just feels like the whole truck.


Can u tell if its worse while pushing on the gas or while coasting? My money would go on u joints. Probably not a bad idea to change them now anyway.

Congrats on the new ride. As mentioned before once you get this thing ready to roll you will never want to plow with that dodge again. You will wonder how you made it this long without a real plow truck. BTW you keeping the dodge and mystern for a backup?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Bossman 92;1691447 said:


> Can u tell if its worse while pushing on the gas or while coasting? My money would go on u joints. Probably not a bad idea to change them now anyway.
> 
> Congrats on the new ride. As mentioned before once you get this thing ready to roll you will never want to plow with that dodge again. You will wonder how you made it this long without a real plow truck. BTW you keeping the dodge and mystern for a backup?


if i coast just right, the vibrations go away. if i brake it shakes, feels like warped roters.

keeping the doge for a backup. will be my wifes daily driver.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

So probably have 2 issues. Bad rotors and unbalanced tires?


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691457 said:


> if i coast just right, the vibrations go away. if i brake it shakes, feels like warped roters.
> 
> keeping the doge for a backup. will be my wifes daily driver.


You're not seriously going to put your wife in that, are you? :laughing:
My wife would murder me.

Could be rotors. Might indicate sticking calipers. If the calipers stick, the brakes will heat up a lot and warp, and being stuck, maintain pressure while moving forward just driving.

But the part about it smoothing off while coasting doesn't really compute if that is it.

I hope you don't have MULTIPLE problems that are simultaneously causing shaking...


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Its more reliable than the old vehicles we have. atm there isnt much actually wrong with it, functionality wise. and we can sell off the junk that is laying around my place.

ill try to get the tires checked out soon. maybe today.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1691462 said:


> Its more reliable than the old vehicles we have. atm there isnt much actually wrong with it, functionality wise. and we can sell off the junk that is laying around my place.
> 
> ill try to get the tires checked out soon. maybe today.


Just make sure its safe for her.
Let us know how it goes.


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

dieselss;1691459 said:


> So probably have 2 issues. Bad rotors and unbalanced tires?


This! Hear hoof prints? Look for horses, not zebras.

Balancing at a tire shop is $10-$15 per tire. It's preventative maintenance anyway, so just do it. If the vibration is still there, you didn't throw money away, since they should be balanced twice a year anyhow.

Brake inspections are free at a lot of places. Some charge $20-$30. Have this done, and they'll take you back and show you everything that needs to be done brake wise.

Tires and brakes are THE biggest safety components on any vehicle. Get these right first. Don't guess. Take it to professionals and remove the guess work. This is what separates the guys who always have issues from the ones who don't. Don't guess. Do it right the first time.

You bought an excellent truck Bird. Now, fine tune it, and make some $$$


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## jomama45 (Dec 25, 2008)

jasonv;1691438 said:


> You're clearly the type of person who hands it over to a shop to fix for you. How do you think THEY figure it out? This is a very common diagnostics technique for 4wd vehicles.
> 
> Have a look at page 3 in the red box: http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_ServiceBulletins/sb0249T12.PDF


Why don't you contact Toyota and ask them if they recommend you doing that at 65 MPH.................


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jasonv;1691464 said:


> Just make sure its safe for her.
> Let us know how it goes.


I plan on having the shop look at it. The brakes seem a little funny. I think the brake booster has been going out for about a year


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Do j have to stop to switch to and from 4x4? 

My dodge can turn it on up to 55mph. Iv never owned a Ford


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## scooter97 (Nov 5, 2013)

I would look in the manual for that answer. As far as your vibe issue have your shop look at it. It could be anything from tires, to u joints, to death wobble from bad alignment, etc.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

BUFF;1691389 said:


> 85k you should expect to do ball joints, brakes and front wheels bearings in the very near future. You better have about $900.00 ready for the parts.


Huh? I did both front wheel bearings, pads & rotors for under $350.


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

plowguy43;1691485 said:


> Huh? I did both front wheel bearings, pads & rotors for under $350.


Yes the parts are very cheap but labor is not I see alot of people are not fans of dodges ive had my 96 ram for 14 plow season's every truck needs work just look at the problems hes having now p.s I added another Dodge truck last year v10 it pushes a ton of snow


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

rjigto4oje;1691493 said:


> Yes the parts are very cheap but labor is not I see alot of people are not fans of dodges ive had my 96 ram for 14 plow season's every truck needs work just look at the problems hes having now p.s I added another Dodge truck last year v10 it pushes a ton of snow


i cant get my wife to sit next to me in a ford


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

birddseedd;1691500 said:


> i cant get my wife to sit next to me in a ford


let her plow with the dodge my wife plows with the v10 she's hoping the storm goes south this weekend she gets excited every time they call for snow


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Wife said no to that one


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

birddseedd;1691507 said:


> Wife said no to that one


Mine loves the money I could have my wife talk to yours she would even teach her and before my wife plowed my sister plowed with us


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Also the vibes could be coming from your center carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft. Or it could be your brakes, these trucks are known for sticking rear brake calipers, I had to replace both of mine and they weren't terribly expensive from advance auto parts after using coupon codes.

Other than that, I'd check u joints as mentioned. Heck, you could even have a blown plug on that 5.4.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

rjigto4oje;1691493 said:


> Yes the parts are very cheap but labor is not I see alot of people are not fans of dodges ive had my 96 ram for 14 plow season's every truck needs work just look at the problems hes having now p.s I added another Dodge truck last year v10 it pushes a ton of snow


I didn't bash Dodge, I've owned about 10 Rams and 1 Dakota all of which have been very good to me. I wanted an older diesel and a full size crew cab, Ford was my only option. There are certainly things I like about my Ford better than the Dodges, but there are things about the Dodges I like better than my Ford.


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

plowguy43;1691518 said:


> I didn't bash Dodge, I've owned about 10 Rams and 1 Dakota all of which have been very good to me. I wanted an older diesel and a full size crew cab, Ford was my only option. There are certainly things I like about my Ford better than the Dodges, but there are things about the Dodges I like better than my Ford.


Well put I like all of them I wish all were reliable and that none of them had any problems


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

bird my steering wheel would shake when I put my brakes on ended up changing rotors and pads in the front. Put new slide pins in to. while I was at it I did shocks all around. now it stops great and rides way better. I didnt get the best parts or the cheapest. total cost was around 400 at advance auto. i have a 04 f250. I had a 02 f150 7700 a few years back. the thing rode like **** and would shake and shimmy. The tires looked new but the were cupped bad. ended up putting new tires on and all was well.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

You guys are way way over thinking this. Rotate and balance tires if vibration goes away good. If not then start looking at other stuff

Shake in the steering when braking is warped front rotors. Whole truck shakes its back usuall

Hubs are there for a backup in case vacuum fails


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

Sawboy;1691473 said:


> This! Hear hoof prints? Look for horses, not zebras.
> 
> Balancing at a tire shop is $10-$15 per tire. It's preventative maintenance anyway, so just do it. If the vibration is still there, you didn't throw money away, since they should be balanced twice a year anyhow.
> 
> ...


Yes ...Yes........ .I AGREE.....But Do you think he will start there?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

the 4 by 4 indicator light started working


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

Nero;1691547 said:


> Yes ...Yes........ .I AGREE.....But Do you think he will start there?


I really hope so. So much overthinking in this thread. It's freaking killing me. I wonder what some here do when the light fixture in the house stops working?

Step 1: Tear out ceiling, trace wiring to fuse box
Step 2: Follow wire from pole to house
Step 3: Rewire house.........:laughing:


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1691557 said:


> the 4 by 4 indicator light started working


Have your mechanic scan it when you take it to have rotate and balanced. It probably needs accuator but could have a vacuum problem.

It should set a code


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Whiffyspark;1691562 said:


> Have your mechanic scan it when you take it to have rotate and balanced. It probably needs accuator but could have a vacuum problem.
> 
> It should set a code


wouldn't it only throw code if the check engine light was on


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1691563 said:


> wouldn't it only throw code if the check engine light was on


No. Itll throw abs, body, trans, 4wd etc. Just about anything can set a code


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I don't have any error indicator lights on


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1691572 said:


> I don't have any error indicator lights on


They are stored if you have a problem


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Will AutoZone be able to find a stored code?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1691583 said:


> Will AutoZone be able to find a stored code?


No their scanners will only read engine codes

Any decent mechanic will have a capable scanner. I have auto engunity for when I'm working at home


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

Tell ya what Bird. Kalamazoo is about 3 hours / 175 miles from me. Balance the tires, drive that thing over here. Then I'll have my buddy who is a Ford Tech of MANY years, check it with a fine tooth comb. Hell, I'll even pay him the time for looking at it just to solve this silliness. 

What started as a couple issues has morphed into 12, with so many SILLY, STUPID ARSED diagnoses, I'm ready to cry. 

You get it here, and I promise you, I'll get it diagnosed. 

Deal?


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## UltraLwn&Lndscp (Oct 20, 2013)

Sawboy;1691604 said:


> Tell ya what Bird. Kalamazoo is about 3 hours / 175 miles from me. Balance the tires, drive that thing over here. Then I'll have my buddy who is a Ford Tech of MANY years, check it with a fine tooth comb. Hell, I'll even pay him the time for looking at it just to solve this silliness.
> 
> What started as a couple issues has morphed into 12, with so many SILLY, STUPID ARSED diagnoses, I'm ready to cry.
> 
> ...


----------



## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

Bird...

Hope you do well with your new ride. Hopefully it doesn't turn into a money pit for you.

Think snow.....


----------



## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Sawboy;1691604 said:


> Tell ya what Bird. Kalamazoo is about 3 hours / 175 miles from me. Balance the tires, drive that thing over here. Then I'll have my buddy who is a Ford Tech of MANY years, check it with a fine tooth comb. Hell, I'll even pay him the time for looking at it just to solve this silliness.
> 
> What started as a couple issues has morphed into 12, with so many SILLY, STUPID ARSED diagnoses, I'm ready to cry.
> 
> ...


Its the interweb, what else is everyone supposed to say? We aren't there driving the truck, we are going by his word which originally said it shook while driving. Then he went on about braking.

Its probably the tires and warped rotors. It doesn't take a mechanic to look at the brakes and see they are shot or warped. Plus they are cheap enough to simply replace anyways, if its had a plow already mounted, they are likely warped and in need of replacing anyways.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

plowguy43;1691674 said:


> Its the interweb, what else is everyone supposed to say? We aren't there driving the truck, we are going by his word which originally said it shook while driving. Then he went on about braking.
> 
> Its probably the tires and warped rotors. It doesn't take a mechanic to look at the brakes and see they are shot or warped. Plus they are cheap enough to simply replace anyways, if its had a plow already mounted, they are likely warped and in need of replacing anyways.


The rotors aren't a big deal. Ill just haven turned.

I should know tomorrow if the wheels or tries are they problem. Left it at discount tire.


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

here we go again


----------



## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

Sawboy;1691604 said:


> Tell ya what Bird. Kalamazoo is about 3 hours / 175 miles from me. Balance the tires, drive that thing over here. Then I'll have my buddy who is a Ford Tech of MANY years, check it with a fine tooth comb. Hell, I'll even pay him the time for looking at it just to solve this silliness.
> 
> What started as a couple issues has morphed into 12, with so many SILLY, STUPID ARSED diagnoses, I'm ready to cry.
> 
> ...


Well Bird??


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Dogplow Dodge;1691666 said:


> Bird...
> 
> Hope you do well with your new ride. Hopefully it doesn't turn into a money pit for you.
> 
> Think snow.....


Its been great do far. I have quite a bit to Bill out for this month. I was scared and starting to apply for jobs before the snow came


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Sawboy;1691604 said:


> Tell ya what Bird. Kalamazoo is about 3 hours / 175 miles from me. Balance the tires, drive that thing over here. Then I'll have my buddy who is a Ford Tech of MANY years, check it with a fine tooth comb. Hell, I'll even pay him the time for looking at it just to solve this silliness.
> 
> What started as a couple issues has morphed into 12, with so many SILLY, STUPID ARSED diagnoses, I'm ready to cry.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Would be nice to kick tires and get some advice in person. Ill let you know how it is after the balancing, and what wifey says


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

xgiovannix12;1691692 said:


> here we go again


Please mute me!


----------



## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

Nice truck bird . Hope it treats you well payup


----------



## tbi (Sep 30, 2007)

I gotta find this market to dump my junk when I'm done with it.


----------



## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

Congrats on the new truck birdman...... I'm not a ford guy but I wish you well



Subscribed for entertainment purposes only!!!


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

ill be honest, im a chevi guy. they seem to last longer. although, my dodge, even after years of plowing, rides like a caddy. very comfortable.

i really like the dodge tho. in the end, if it were a new vehicle, i would go with whatever i found built in america.

I did notice one interesting thing. two actually. 1. there were no dodge's, gmc's, chevi's in my price range. but a dang ton of fords. not sure why this is. and 2. a few years ago my wife and i got into this argument, so we drove around town and started counting up all of the vehicles we found. What we learnt, there were 15 times more chevi's on the road than fords or anything else, and most of the chevi's were older trucks, and most of the fords were brand new, chromed out, never touched a piece of dirt trucks.

shrugs. i have something that will be reliable for my customers. ill keep it a year or two and upgrade if the business does well. till then. i cant wait to fill up the bed.


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## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

you find more fords for sale because ford sells more trucks than chevy and dodge combined. and around here it seems most companies and work trucks are fords so they get worked and beat more and then sell for less bc of the condition. were the chevys seem to be more of the homeowners who dont actually need a truck but occasionally need one or just want one, and they are in much better shape so sell for more. again not always but most of the time around here. but it is a fact that ford sells way more than chevy or dodge.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

in my searches, it wasnt simply. more fords. in half of indiana and half of michigan. i did not find a single one.


----------



## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

sorry, your joy rides are clearly more accurate than fact.


----------



## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Jguck25;1691918 said:


> you find more fords for sale because ford sells more trucks than chevy and dodge combined. and around here it seems most companies and work trucks are fords so they get worked and beat more and then sell for less bc of the condition. were the chevys seem to be more of the homeowners who dont actually need a truck but occasionally need one or just want one, and they are in much better shape so sell for more. again not always but most of the time around here. but it is a fact that ford sells way more than chevy or dodge.


Idk about any of the sales figures but I do know Ford builds a heck of a work truck. I've always really liked their 450 & 550 and I'm a dodge guy. Good luck with the new ride bird, hopefully it treats you well.


----------



## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

Birdman, you get that truck sorted, add 700 pounds of ballast across the rear of the bed, and go plow a storm..and you will be a Ford man from that point on. The only soft spot with that truck is the engine is not a powerhouse. The 5.4 triton was never a giant killer.
But as a work truck, and a snow mover, a better truck was never made.
There is a reason more than half the guys on this forum run Fords.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Buswell Forest;1692139 said:


> Birdman, you get that truck sorted, add 700 pounds of ballast across the rear of the bed, and go plow a storm..and you will be a Ford man from that point on. The only soft spot with that truck is the engine is not a powerhouse. The 5.4 triton was never a giant killer.
> But as a work truck, and a snow mover, a better truck was never made.
> There is a reason more than half the guys on this forum run Fords.


as long as it will pull a couple pallets of sod


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Jguck25;1691926 said:


> sorry, your joy rides are clearly more accurate than fact.


hmm?


----------



## Maclawnco (Nov 21, 2002)

Advice from a guy on the top 100 list (not me): "Best loader is a sub's loader and I own 3 of my own"


----------



## vlc (Dec 8, 2012)

I've run Chevy, dodge, and ford. I used to be a Chevy guy until I got my f350 power stroke. I'm all about fords now! I'll buy a Chevy again if i get a great deal on it, though. I'll NEVER buy another dodge!

Congrats on the new truck, and good luck with it. Make that $$!!!


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

What year dodge did you have?


----------



## vlc (Dec 8, 2012)

It was a 95 2500 v10. Spent more time fixing it than plowing with it. Not to mention the horrible fuel mileage


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

iv had issues with my 04 dodge. but nothign different than the issues you can have with any other truck.


----------



## mud (Dec 15, 2005)

While I think you probably payed a bit to much for it it will be a huge step up for you. Get the issues fixed (correctly) and keep up on the maintenance and it will treat you well. Throw a set of wings on it and you will be very impressed and will wonder why you didn't make the switch sooner.

Maybe in a year or so look at getting a bigger plow or going to a v or expandable but for now just concentrate on keeping it well maintained and making some money with it.


----------



## mud (Dec 15, 2005)

Dont fall into the I'm not going to keep it long trap either. That is just gonna cause you to scrimp on maintenance. Treat it like you are going to keep it. Not only will it treat you better and last longer, if you do go to sell it, you can command a far higher price. Those are good trucks, and they will last a long time and make you lots of money as long as you do your part.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Called the tire shop. they said the tires are wobbly. They balanced best they could, but you cant fix a wobbly tire. i should have guessed, since the truck sat for two years. im not willing to buy new tires, so ill deal with it. i don't travel on the highway much for work, so its kind of a non issue.

its possible that a few hundred miles will work the tires out again anyway.

so all that needs fixing is the seal in the drive shaft. the u joint is so rusted im not sure i want to deal with it, might take it to a shop or take sawboy's offer


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

vlc;1692171 said:


> It was a 95 2500 v10. Spent more time fixing it than plowing with it. Not to mention the horrible fuel mileage


I had a 95 2500 5.9L...I had it for 5 years and in 35k miles the transmission went, the rear end went, the front end had to be rebuilt, the driveshaft had to be replaced, the door skins rotted out, the bed rotted out, and the dash cracked. It was bought new.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

don't think ill get to use my truck tonight. not with the leaky front end.

4 to 8 inches


----------



## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

birddseedd;1692199 said:


> Called the tire shop. they said the tires are wobbly. They balanced best they could, but you cant fix a wobbly tire. i should have guessed, since the truck sat for two years. im not willing to buy new tires, so ill deal with it. i don't travel on the highway much for work, so its kind of a non issue.
> 
> its possible that a few hundred miles will work the tires out again anyway.
> 
> so all that needs fixing is the seal in the drive shaft. the u joint is so rusted im not sure i want to deal with it, might take it to a shop or take sawboy's offer


What do u mean by wobbly?


----------



## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

birddseedd;1692216 said:


> don't think ill get to use my truck tonight. not with the leaky front end.
> 
> 4 to 8 inches


Just fix it. It's a quick easy fix.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

its what they said. imagine spinning it with a flat spot on the bottom from sitting on the rubber for 2 years.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

it involves taking appart the u joint?


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

birddseedd;1692223 said:


> it involves taking appart the u joint?


Its 8 bolts bird, take both the drive shafts out take em 2 a drive shaft company hell YouTube it save yourself some cash its only nuts and bolts


----------



## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

birddseedd;1692223 said:


> it involves taking appart the u joint?


Well since u are not going to fix it at least top off the fluid that way if the mystern goes down you have a back up


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

ok. apparently i was looking at the wrong zip code. ice tonight. Iv got time. if i don't have to take the u joint apart i can get it goin tomorrow.


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1692271 said:


> ok. apparently i was looking at the wrong zip code. ice tonight. Iv got time. if i don't have to take the u joint apart i can get it goin tomorrow.


Which truck and what seal


----------



## BC Handyman (Dec 15, 2010)

My advise..... get off PS & go work on your truck....either one!!!


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

02 f305. seal going into the front diff. not sure which drive shaft i have. there are 2 sizes. need to get the truck back so i have the vin to find out.


----------



## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

let's call it for what it is, the pile of crap will nickel and dime you to death,bird listen to your wife. anytime a vehicle is allowed to sit will have issues


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

1olddogtwo;1692285 said:


> let's call it for what it is, the pile of crap will nickel and dime you to death,bird listen to your wife. anytime a vehicle is allowed to sit will have issues


cant be worse than my current setup.


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1692282 said:


> 02 f305. seal going into the front diff. not sure which drive shaft i have. there are 2 sizes. need to get the truck back so i have the vin to find out.


Should be 4 12 point bolts on the driveshaft where u joint is you have to remove. If its rusted bad take it to a shop


----------



## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

birddseedd;1692291 said:


> cant be worse than my current setup.


okay you got me on that one


----------



## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

mud;1692192 said:


> Treat it like you are going to keep it. Those are good trucks, and they will last a long time and make you lots of money as long as you do your part.


This!!! 100%. Treat it with the respect it deserves. You want it to put food on your plate? Make it as healthy as you can.



birddseedd;1692199 said:


> im not willing to buy new tires, so ill deal with it.
> 
> its possible that a few hundred miles will work the tires out again anyway.
> 
> or take sawboy's offer


Not willing to buy new tires? To plow, in snow, under awful conditions. The SINGLE biggest safety factor there is. Now I see why things happen to you.

It will not "work itself out". You need tires.

My offer is off the table after hearing this bro. I'm not wasting my guys time (not even worried about the money honestly). You won't put tires on it.......what are ya gonna say about the other issues? Nope, I ain't wasting my guys time. Put new tires on it, and I'll put the offer back out there for ya.



Bossman 92;1692217 said:


> What do u mean by wobbly?


Bossman is right. Wobbly is NOT a diagnosis man. I managed a GoodYear for 10 years. If I had a tech tell me a tire was "wobbly" I'd slap him.

Bird, you bought the best truck in the world for work. Fix it right, and be done with it man. And tires are a safety issue. For you and everyone around you that you might hit.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

The tires are not rotted and have lots of tread. how is it a safety issue?


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1692316 said:


> The tires are not rotted and have lots of tread. how is it a safety issue?


It can be if they have a slipped belt. Even flat spotted can mess them up


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Theres clearly something wrong with the tires. The tread very well could be fine, and not dry rotted but vibrations can mean that they are out of balance and could mean an imminent failure or tread separation(this can possibly cause thousands of dollars in damage to your rig). Spend the money, fix it right with quality parts and don't hack any of it. Replace the parts, do not repair. Spending money now will save you lots of money in the long run.


----------



## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

How is it a safety issue? They are "wobbly". What the shade tree dope who made that diagnosis probably means is they are out of round, or have belt separations. Out of round creates vibration and only gets worse and leads to belt seps. Belt separations mean the tires steel belts are coming apart, which results in rapid air loss, without warning. At 30mph this is very dangerous. Honestly man, read up on this stuff.

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fi...pc=15084&ar=75&rf=true&rd=16&rc=ILCINT&cs=265

Here is a set of tires that "out the door" will run you $570 ($540 after $30 visa gift card is mailed to you)

Do it right, or don't do it. Tires are not an "if". They are a must!


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Im going out to get some more popcorn for this thread. At least it will be money well spent. Ye hah. Geter done


----------



## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

And by the way, I'm not just talking out of the side of my mouth about doing it right. When I took my truck to George at Wicked Warnings for the lights, he found a bunch of eaten up wires from mice. He called me and said that "it looks bad, but it's been running for ya. I don't think you'll make the year plowing with it like this. I can fix em all, but I have no idea how much I'm gonna find wrong". Now I know how that works. Ya really don't know. The more you pull apart the looms, the more you expose, the more ya find wrong. My response? "George, fix it. I can't be out there at 3am broken down." Cost me quite a bit more, but THAT piece of mind is priceless, and means that when I tell someone I'm gonna be there, and I'm reliable, that I will live up to my word. 

And when Pat did the install of the plow, I told him "you're the pro, order whatever I need to make it perfect"

I'm not made of money by any means, but I will not scrimp on safety or reliability. 

Do it right, or don't do it at all.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Sawboy;1692323 said:


> How is it a safety issue? They are "wobbly". What the shade tree dope who made that diagnosis probably means is they are out of round, or have belt separations. Out of round creates vibration and only gets worse and leads to belt seps. Belt separations mean the tires steel belts are coming apart, which results in rapid air loss, without warning. At 30mph this is very dangerous. Honestly man, read up on this stuff.
> 
> http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fi...pc=15084&ar=75&rf=true&rd=16&rc=ILCINT&cs=265
> 
> ...


in either case I will have to wait until tax time I've already got my discount card maxed out from my Dodge


----------



## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

Whiffyspark;1692320 said:


> It can be if they have a slipped belt. Even flat spotted can mess them up





2006Sierra1500;1692322 said:


> Theres clearly something wrong with the tires. The tread very well could be fine, and not dry rotted but vibrations can mean that they are out of balance and could mean an imminent failure or tread separation(this can possibly cause thousands of dollars in damage to your rig). Spend the money, fix it right with quality parts and don't hack any of it. Replace the parts, do not repair. Spending money now will save you lots of money in the long run.





Sawboy;1692323 said:


> How is it a safety issue? They are "wobbly". What the shade tree dope who made that diagnosis probably means is they are out of round, or have belt separations. Out of round creates vibration and only gets worse and leads to belt seps. Belt separations mean the tires steel belts are coming apart, which results in rapid air loss, without warning. At 30mph this is very dangerous. Honestly man, read up on this stuff.
> 
> http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fi...pc=15084&ar=75&rf=true&rd=16&rc=ILCINT&cs=265
> 
> ...


All three of us? Hmmmmmm


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Next week there will be a "HELP I BLEW A TIRE AND HIT A BUS LOAD OF NUNS" thread.


----------



## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

2006Sierra1500;1692342 said:


> Next week there will be a "HELP I BLEW A TIRE AND HIT A BUS LOAD OF NUNS" thread.


As long as the nuns were not watching a group of innocent children holding puppies!


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Mark13;1692347 said:


> As long as the nuns were not watching a group of innocent children holding puppies!


NOT THE PUPPIES! :laughing:


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Sawboy;1692330 said:


> And by the way, I'm not just talking out of the side of my mouth about doing it right. When I took my truck to George at Wicked Warnings for the lights, he found a bunch of eaten up wires from mice. He called me and said that "it looks bad, but it's been running for ya. I don't think you'll make the year plowing with it like this. I can fix em all, but I have no idea how much I'm gonna find wrong". Now I know how that works. Ya really don't know. The more you pull apart the looms, the more you expose, the more ya find wrong. My response? "George, fix it. I can't be out there at 3am broken down." Cost me quite a bit more, but THAT piece of mind is priceless, and means that when I tell someone I'm gonna be there, and I'm reliable, that I will live up to my word.
> 
> And when Pat did the install of the plow, I told him "you're the pro, order whatever I need to make it perfect"
> 
> ...


I just picked up my truck the guy that I spoke with seemed a lot more competent than one I spoke with on the phone. he told me that they check the belts, I'm not sure how,but the belts were fine. He said the uneven wear won't cause a failure. I can decide what to do with them at tax time. For now I have to pay my mortgage.

I understand doing things right the first time and paying to have things fixed and running perfectly, almost every extra penny I earn goes back into the business, but at the same time, I can't spend my mortgage money.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

2006Sierra1500;1692342 said:


> Next week there will be a "HELP I BLEW A TIRE AND HIT A BUS LOAD OF NUNS" thread.


According to discount, the construction of the tire is sound and safe. Itl just be a bit not so smooth ride around 70mph. I don't speed anyway


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1692364 said:


> I just picked up my truck the guy that I spoke with seemed a lot more competent than one I spoke with on the phone. he told me that they check the belts, I'm not sure how,but the belts were fine. He said the uneven wear won't cause a failure. I can decide what to do with them at tax time. For now I have to pay my mortgage.
> 
> I understand doing things right the first time and paying to have things fixed and running perfectly, almost every extra penny I earn goes back into the business, but at the same time, I can't spend my mortgage money.


He's right. Checking belts is simple you just look for a large budge. Separating sidewalls is more common they would have a huge ballon in the sidewall if that happened.

Some tires just suck trying to get balanced eight. Cupping of the threads will do it Thats not a big issue.

I'm sure you'll be fine until tax time I wouldn't worry about it


----------



## dycproperties (Nov 19, 2012)

For a guy who's trying to get going in the plowing landscape business with a limited budget you bought the perfect truck. Find some quality used tires and make your first priority after that getting some cash together to deal with any mechanical issues properly. This is a truck that will make you money for years to come and should be part of your business till it is ready to scrap. If you can't make this truck work for you and bring you to the next level you need to go work for some one else. Again good choice for your budget and good luck hope you have a great season and that this is a turning point for you and your business.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

I hear ya when it comes to paying the mortgage when things are tight. get those new tires, u joints and fix that leak asap. then put some money aside each week for future repairs.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Thanks. I hope so. Only thing left to get its a decent blower. I'm hoping to hire one of my subs part time this year. That will make a huge difference in my reliability. Ill get this truck into the shop next week and see what they say


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1692375 said:


> I hear ya when it comes to paying the mortgage when things are tight. get those new tires, u joints and fix that leak asap. then put some money aside each week for future repairs.


Im just thankful the snow came. I was scared. Even started applying for jobs


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Birdman, you need to create and stick to a serious budget. You are financed to death with at least two trucks, Discount Tire card, and a mortgage. I know there are others. This is why you don't have any money to take care of the simplest of things. You will never make any progress at the rate you're going. I know, I've been there. We all want you to succeed, but you need to go back to basics and stop over thinking everything. You got a great work truck, so make it work for you.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1692450 said:


> Birdman, you need to create and stick to a serious budget. You are financed to death with at least two trucks, Discount Tire card, and a mortgage. I know there are others. This is why you don't have any money to take care of the simplest of things. You will never make any progress at the rate you're going. I know, I've been there. We all want you to succeed, but you need to go back to basics and stop over thinking everything. You got a great work truck, so make it work for you.


Itl get better this year. i shouldn't have to spend so much money on repairs. That is where a lot of my money has gone. repairs and equipment.

if i do well i might be able to pay off everything by next spring.


----------



## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

You going to throw some 20's or 22's on it?


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

1olddogtwo;1692483 said:


> You going to throw some 20's or 22's on it?


He's On a budget skinny 13's


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

Wonder if that truck has the heated tailgate feature.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

xgiovannix12;1692490 said:


> Wonder if that truck has the heated tailgate feature.


eh?


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Awwwwwwwwwww


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

typical the guys is doing the best he can yet you have ****** bags here busting him,.. nice


----------



## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

No such thing as a heated tail gate Bird. Ignore that nonsense. Look at all our good advice and use that.


----------



## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Sawboy;1692624 said:


> No such thing as a heated tail gate Bird. Ignore that nonsense. Look at all our good advice and use that.


So you say.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Sawboy;1692624 said:


> No such thing as a heated tail gate Bird. Ignore that nonsense. Look at all our good advice and use that.


How about a flap attached to the bottom of the tail gate that covers the gap before the bed to keep rocks out of it?


----------



## UltraLwn&Lndscp (Oct 20, 2013)

birddseedd;1692651 said:


> How about a flap attached to the bottom of the tail gate that covers the gap before the bed to keep rocks out of it?


that could be a great idea. Although I typically don't haul stuff in the bed(dump trailers), nothing is more frustrating than not being able to drop the gate due to pesky debris that never wants to clean out easily.


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

wils5150;1692613 said:


> typical the guys is doing the best he can yet you have ****** bags here busting him,.. nice


Trolls are everywhere live with it.


----------



## wislxer (Jan 20, 2011)

Banksy;1692450 said:


> Birdman, you need to create and stick to a serious budget. You are financed to death with at least two trucks, Discount Tire card, and a mortgage. I know there are others. This is why you don't have any money to take care of the simplest of things. You will never make any progress at the rate you're going. I know, I've been there. We all want you to succeed, but you need to go back to basics and stop over thinking everything. You got a great work truck, so make it work for you.


X2 Well said Banksy.

Birdman take sawboy up on that offer for diagnostics. The $50 in gas is worth the networking/bs-ing alone not to mention the diagnostics/advice that would come with it. That's a solid offer. Good on you sawboy!


----------



## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

wislxer;1693594 said:


> X2 Well said Banksy.
> 
> Birdman take sawboy up on that offer ...... That's a solid offer. Good on you sawboy!


Actually that's an AWESOME offer! Just goes to show that there are folks out there willing to go beyond and above the call of duty...Thumbs Up


----------



## BC Handyman (Dec 15, 2010)

just remember Sawboys offer only stands if bird deals with his tires....properly


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

His tires are fibe


----------



## SnowFakers (Dec 31, 2012)

Glad you got a new truck. Run it and try and fix it properly but don't blow your budget either. Paying the mortgage is much more important than new tires. Work with what you have, just don't neglect things when they can be fixed.


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

A couple other things Bird, make sure your plowing technique is easy on the truck.
*No slamming into banks. 
*Keep it fairly slow but steady. (under 10 mph while the blade is down)
*Come to a complete stop before shifting directions. 

Then on the truck, check all your fluid levels before you go out with it the first time, top off as needed. 
When you're done using it for work the first time, check all the levels again, top them off so it's ready to go at a moments notice for the next storm. Do this every time.


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

Bird, coulpe honest questions...

1) Do you really not have money for these basic repairs or do you just prefer a decent pad in your checking account? 
2) Do you have commercial liability insurance for plowing and proper coverage on your truck? 
3) Do you have paypal?
4) How many kids do you have?

Kind of personal questions so answer if you feel comfortable doing so.


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

NBI Lawn;1694430 said:


> Bird, coulpe honest questions...
> 
> 1) Do you really not have money for these basic repairs or do you just prefer a decent pad in your checking account?
> 2) Do you have commercial liability insurance for plowing and proper coverage on your truck?
> ...


Doesnt he plow for someone? My guy covers my truck.

His truck doesn't need any repairs. The tires are fine. If they weren't they wouldn't have let him drive the truck away.

To me it sounds like they are just scalloped from previous owner not rotating them


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

mnglocker;1694420 said:


> A couple other things Bird, make sure your plowing technique is easy on the truck.
> *No slamming into banks.
> *Keep it fairly slow but steady. (under 10 mph while the blade is down)
> *Come to a complete stop before shifting directions.
> ...


I do tend To Hit the piles a little hard.

My dodge shifts pretty Fast. Ill have to get used to taking more time


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

NBI Lawn;1694430 said:


> Bird, coulpe honest questions...
> 
> 1) Do you really not have money for these basic repairs or do you just prefer a decent pad in your checking account?
> 2) Do you have commercial liability insurance for plowing and proper coverage on your truck?
> ...


One kid. Wife has paypal. Only used it a couple times. I have liability, not commercial auto. Will look into the cost when i switch to this truck

1 kid

As far as cash goes. Thats why im so broke. It all goes into repairs and such. Next year should be a lot better


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Whiffyspark;1694433 said:


> Doesnt he plow for someone? My guy covers my truck.
> 
> His truck doesn't need any repairs. The tires are fine. If they weren't they wouldn't have let him drive the truck away.
> 
> To me it sounds like they are just scalloped from previous owner not rotating them


I make enough on my contract work to pay for my gas for the day on my route. Im thinking of trying to get a little more work and dropping that guy


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

What does paypal have to do with anything? With no commercial auto, you will really be broke if you're at fault for a wreck going from site to site. I don't think GL covers that kind of claim, but maybe in MI they do???


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Yea. Tho when i pumped into a garage, progressive still covered it


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Commercial auto dropped my rates about $200 a year.


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

So how does that work?


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694457 said:


> Yea. Tho when i pumped into a garage, progressive still covered it


Oh, that's good.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1694465 said:


> Oh, that's good.


the rep actualy said "don't tell me you got paid for this". i only got paid 5 bucks. was just finishing off a drive while looking around for extra work. probably would not have damaged the garage if it was built properly. but that has been a year or two ago.



mnglocker;1694461 said:


> Commercial auto dropped my rates about $200 a year.


yea. how does that work?


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694467 said:


> the rep actualy said "don't tell me you got paid for this"
> 
> 
> > I see, said the blind man.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

is it always this much of a pain to buy parts for a ford?


----------



## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

What are u having trouble with?


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

finding the seal for the front diff.

dealer 1 says its part 8c3z-4l616-b
dealer 2 says its part 2c3z-3254-aa and that the other part does not exist for this truck
part stores just ask me for what size drive shaft i have and neither dealer has the slightest clue


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Try RockAuto.com. Maybe this will work...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[year_1993]=true&ck[mkt_US]=true&ck[mkt_EU]=true&ck[mkt_CA]=true&ck[mkt_MX]=true&ck[ID]=7936ff844c739e02b25683eb990babf1&ck[idlist]=7936ff844c739e02b25683eb990babf1&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=adsre5snkhnpo74jt3to08q9b2

(Guess the link didn't attach the menu for 2002 Ford drivetrain)


----------



## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

10 MPH while plowing? 

I've been doing something wrong for almost 30 years. My dad taught me and he started in '62. I better let him know. 

Didn't read the whole thread, but I am subscribed.


----------



## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Mark Oomkes;1694500 said:


> 10 MPH while plowing?


That's going forward, in reverse it's WFO just watch out for those pesky garages.....


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

if i ask for the seal on the drive shaft, why does everyone want to give me the seal on the axle shaft....

i guess its the pinion seal im looking for?


----------



## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

BUFF;1694517 said:


> That's going forward, in reverse it's WFO just watch out for those pesky garages.....


Lots of people have asked why I have so many backup lights. Thumbs Up

You seem to understand. That's another thing my dad taught me, you go as fast or faster in R than forward.


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Mark Oomkes;1694500 said:


> 10 MPH while plowing?
> 
> I've been doing something wrong for almost 30 years. My dad taught me and he started in '62. I better let him know.
> 
> Didn't read the whole thread, but I am subscribed.


I'm guilty of going fast, but I've also got a pile of experience as do you. That being said. I'm mechanically inclined, I have a heated shop, an extra truck/plow, I know what's under the snow and I can afford to replace crap when it breaks.

Bird on the other hand need's his equipment to last him, sans any repairs until he has two cents to rub together. going 10mph while your blade is down is not bad, it makes less spill over and will give you cleaner passes to boot. And when you find a surprise under the snow, you're a lot less likely to break stuff, like the apex or a hydraulic cylinder.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Mark Oomkes;1694524 said:


> Lots of people have asked why I have so many backup lights. Thumbs Up
> 
> You seem to understand. That's another thing my dad taught me, you go as fast or faster in R than forward.


is that why you have 3 broken tranies?


----------



## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

birddseedd;1694521 said:


> if i ask for the seal on the drive shaft, why does everyone want to give me the seal on the axle shaft....
> 
> i guess its the pinion seal im looking for?


If you can break away from the computer crawl under the truck and take a picture and post it. You should be able to get the answer/direction needed.
Our you can search the web for a schematic /parts diagram of the front end and achieve the same results.


----------



## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

birddseedd;1694529 said:


> is that why you have 3 broken tranies?


I do?

News to me.


----------



## linckeil (Sep 18, 2007)

bird's threads are by far the most popular and most replied to posts of any forum i'm on. his threads are the only ones where i will actually sit and read 7 pages just to catch up and stay current on the issue at hand.

EDIT - i see i actually read through 10 pages.... heck, if it was 50 pages long and took me all day to catch up i'd have no regrets!!!!


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

i think i finally found it

8c3z-4L616-b 

ford part number.

they say itl be here by 2.

now i gotta go try to take it appart. 4 bolts in the drive shaft, it falls down, then whatever part the drive shaft/u join is bolted to just pulls out? after that pull old seal out with a flat head scratching as much surface as possible then re install with a hammer bending the new seal into place?


----------



## gallihersnow (Dec 17, 2012)

Congrats on the new truck birdd. 

I hope 2014 is a good year for you!


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1694544 said:


> i think i finally found it
> 
> 8c3z-4L616-b
> 
> ...


No

Do you have an impact gun?


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Yep. Its electric tho


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

You're changing the pinion seal. You'll need to take the yolk off the pinion shaft. That will likely be a job in and of itself. And you'll need to properly torque the pinion yolk nut back on, too. If you don't do this job right, you'll have wasted your time and money. My Dodge's pinion seal weeped for years and I just kept an eye on the oil.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1694554 said:


> You're changing the pinion seal. You'll need to take the yolk off the pinion shaft. That will likely be a job in and of itself. And you'll need to properly torque the pinion yolk nut back on, too. If you don't do this job right, you'll have wasted your time and money. My Dodge's pinion seal weeped for years and I just kept an eye on the oil.


This one leaks a drop every 30 sec. too big of a leak to just watch


----------



## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Mark Oomkes;1694538 said:


> I do?
> 
> News to me.


I'm sure it's on Facebook........


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

does this guy look like he knows what he is talking about?


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

birddseedd;1694556 said:


> This one leaks a drop every 30 sec. too big of a leak to just watch


You may have a damaged pinion yoke. That's a hearty leak. 
Take it to a shop that specializes in drive-lines.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

if thats the case, i should be able to see that when i take it appart?


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694559 said:


> does this guy look like he knows what he is talking about?


That's basically the short and curlies of it. Enjoy!


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694565 said:


> if thats the case, i should be able to see that when i take it appart?


Yes, no, maybe, maybe so, maybe not. Take it apart and post pics of stuff.


----------



## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

birddseedd;1694559 said:


> does this guy look like he knows what he is talking about?


I've never heard of a rear (or front) differential that didn't need to be torqued back down with a new lock nut (if available). I've watched guys do it by just snugging up the yoke nut, but never followed them around to see if they altered the backlash on the R&P.

Every truck I've ever worked on had a crush collar that needed to be retorqued to spec, to prevent alteration of the R&P clearances.

Any of you guys think the video is correct ? Does that axle get reassembled the way he's stated in the vid ?

BIRD: If the yoke is damaged, there are companies out there that sell repair sleeves and new seals to match. If the yoke comes out, and it's got a really deep groove in it, go to the parts store and buy a repair kit for it. The kit provides you with a new sleve that slides over the old yoke surface that's damaged. This way, the new seal rides on a new surface. There are also other parts manufacturers that sell "offset seals" this allows the seal to ride on a surface not damaged on the original yoke. It's either that, or you'll have to buy a new yoke...

I'm not yoking around, btw

Good luck, either way.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

mark the yoke on the pinion and on the drive shaft so the go back together the same way they came out. might aswell do u joints while you are at it


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Dogplow Dodge;1694580 said:


> I've never heard of a rear (or front) differential that didn't need to be torqued back down with a new lock nut (if available).  I've watched guys do it by just snugging up the yoke nut, but never followed them around to see if they altered the backlash on the R&P.
> 
> Every truck I've ever worked on had a crush collar that needed to be retorqued to spec, to prevent alteration of the R&P clearances.
> 
> ...


what's a yolk


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

birddseedd;1694618 said:


> what's a yolk


The part on the differential that the u-join on the drive shaft mates to.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

this.. this one is from a jeep but you get the idea


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

mnglocker;1694622 said:


> The part on the differential that the u-join on the drive shaft mates to.





I dont know whos dumb idea it was to use 8mm bolts. 2 stripped


----------



## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

birddseedd;1694633 said:


> I dont know whos dumb idea it was to use 8mm bolts. 2 stripped


Some guy with a Mechanical Engineering Degree. Looking at the rust on the U-Joint the bolt size has nothing to do with the failure of it.


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Stop right there and bring it to a shop. That yolk is going to be a beeeeyotch to remove. I, too, would do U-joints while you're at it.


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Dogplow Dodge;1694580 said:


> I've never heard of a rear (or front) differential that didn't need to be torqued back down with a new lock nut (if available). I've watched guys do it by just snugging up the yoke nut, but never followed them around to see if they altered the backlash on the R&P.
> 
> Every truck I've ever worked on had a crush collar that needed to be retorqued to spec, to prevent alteration of the R&P clearances.
> 
> ...


If you have experience in doing it you will by fine with snugging it back up. I have electric impacts but we use air for it. It takes experience to know when its tight enough.

I've always we used the nut as well

I've never stripped the driveshaft bolts either you need to use a high quality box end wrench or swivel socket.

Pull the yoke out, use pry bar to pop seal put. Then grease new one and put it back in tapping gently.

I wonder if Youre actually leaking from somewhere else maybe a brake line under the master cylinder? A drop or two a minute is ALOT for a pinion seal that doesn't have fluid on it


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Technically they're 5/16ths as that's not metric used in the drive line. Most part stores carry a kit that has new little bolts and straps to go over the u-joint cups for about $8.00

Make sure to use some blue loctite on the bolts when you put it back together, as to keep the corrosion out. That's what causes bolts to break and strip. Not to mention you won't have to worry about the bolts backing out on their own.


----------



## scooter97 (Nov 5, 2013)

I agree with Bansky, that is gearing up to be a royal PITA

Edit: can you get us a picture of where it is leaking? I can see the whole underside is damp


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Whiffyspark;1694652 said:


> If you have experience in doing it you will by fine with snugging it back up. I have electric impacts but we use air for it. It takes experience to know when its tight enough.
> 
> I've always we used the nut as well
> 
> ...


+1 on all of this. Especially the bolded part.

And Bird, that is a TON of rust on the parts, you may want to take it to a shop, I think you'll be opening a pandora's box.

Unbolt the other side of the front drive shaft from the transfer-case and take it in. Leave that front yoke alone, you'll get in over your head with that much rust and only an electric impact.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

scooter97;1694656 said:


> I agree with Bansky, that is gearing up to be a royal PITA
> 
> Edit: can you get us a picture of where it is leaking? I can see the whole underside is damp


Thats where it looked like, dripping right off of the bottom.


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

You can't bang a yolk off, you will wreck it. You will need a puller and DO NOT pull using those UJ cap bolt holes. I would have a good puller (gear or jaw style), torch for heat, and a hammer to give it some love taps as you pull. 

Good luck if you do this yourself............


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Whiffyspark;1694652 said:


> I wonder if Youre actually leaking from somewhere else maybe a brake line under the master cylinder? A drop or two a minute is ALOT for a pinion seal that doesn't have fluid on it


Great point!


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

i have a pully puller


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

i couldnt find anything else leaking


----------



## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Didn't you say you had a mechanic buddy, take it to him and figure out a way to do some trading with him. It's pretty clear you have no idea of what you're getting into.


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

birddseedd;1694668 said:


> i have a pully puller


*Just stop. *

All the wrench heads in this thread are telling you to STOP. Take it to a shop, watch it done, and learn for next time. When you screw up drive line parts, especially diffs, it's not cheap to fix. A front diff rebuild will cost you $1500 in parts for that truck.


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

And replace those u-joints, I'd bet the cups are dry and rusted, and that will make for a hell of a drive-line vibration. 

I just did all these repairs two weeks ago.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

no shop will be available to fix it before tonight. its already half apart now. i have no choice but to do it.


----------



## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Chooooo choooooo

Can anyone else hear it coming?


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

i echo the Take it to a shop!! have them do the u joints and the seal it shouldnt cost much. Some jobs are easier with the right tools.
Do you have anybody that can help you?


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

birddseedd;1694676 said:


> no shop will be available to fix it before tonight. its already half apart now. i have no choice but to do it.


remove the front drive shaft by unbolting the other end from the t-case, and drive it to the shop.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

iv done harder jobs than this before... wasnt it the 4x4 that was out on my last truck? pretty sure i complained about it for a year


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

once i can get it to a shop he will look at the u joints and let me know if they need done. that ill probably pay for, looks like a real pain


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Mark Oomkes;1694677 said:


> Chooooo choooooo
> 
> Can anyone else hear it coming?


Whistling 'round the bend.


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Mark Oomkes;1694677 said:


> Chooooo choooooo
> 
> Can anyone else hear it coming?


Loud and clear. Here it comes.

A six pack and a front row seat would be great!

Put it back together and keep it topped off until you can get it fixed properly. If you were to even listen once, now is the time!


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

i don't see what the big deal is, its 1 bolt and a seal behind it. might have to rent a torque wrench since mine dissapeard years ago


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

When one isn't enough.


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694688 said:


> i don't see what the big deal is, its 1 bolt and a seal behind it. might have to rent a torque wrench since mine dissapeard years ago


You're right. It really isn't a big deal. It's only a bolt (actually a nut) and a seal. Go for it!

Stop kidding. You aren't going to rent a torque wrench. You'll crank the nut down to where it "feels good". By the way, what is the torque spec for that nut?


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Exactly. Right tools for the job. Tight, how tight? What's the specs? You do know there's a crush sleeve behind there and that sets your pinion dept torque. Over torquing will cause issues. Under torquing will cause issues. So you gunna just guess?


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

dieselss;1694695 said:


> Exactly. Right tools for the job. Tight, how tight? What's the specs? You do know there's a crush sleeve behind there and that sets your pinion dept torque. Over torquing will cause issues. Under torquing will cause issues. So you gunna just guess?


42

:laughing:


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

Come on man I am in your corner but smarten up. why rent the tool when you can have it done right. I know you are tight on money but this is how a good truck gets turned into a **** box.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1694699 said:


> Come on man I am in your corner but smarten up. why rent the tool when you can have it done right. I know you are tight on money but this is how a good truck gets turned into a **** box.


itl be fine. im gettin a new nut and will just look up the torque it needs.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

thats assuming you can get it a part


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Most pinion nut torque is set by rotational resistance of the assembly.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1694706 said:


> thats assuming you can get it a part


bingo. that thing is effin hard. dont know what to do now.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

mechanic says i should be able to fill it up and itl last till morning.

what you think?


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Beat on it.....


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

dieselss;1694723 said:


> Beat on it.....


my impact wrench already beat pretty hard. got all the rust loose anyway.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

take out the drive shaft and bring it to a pro and tell him to replace the u joints and pinion seal. that what you do!!
At my other golf course I have a fully stocked shop with a lift,air tools torches and a mechanic. if he or I are not comfortable doing something we send it out . doesnt happen often but it does happen.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

im comfortable doing it. iv changed the seals on my axles before. its not hard. i jsut dont have a strong enough wrench. found a buddy with one. see ya later.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

isn't the drive shaft half way out? Dont beat on it you probably need some heat



birddseedd;1694722 said:


> mechanic says i should be able to fill it up and itl last till morning.
> 
> what you think?


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1694713 said:


> bingo. that thing is effin hard. dont know what to do now.


That is the best thing that could of happened to you. Now let a professional fix it.



birddseedd;1694722 said:


> mechanic says i should be able to fill it up and itl last till morning.
> 
> what you think?


Are you sure it is not overfilled already?


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694713 said:


> bingo. that thing is effin hard. dont know what to do now.


Oh, it's hard to get off? Gee...who would have thought?!


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1694722 said:


> mechanic says i should be able to fill it up and itl last till morning.
> 
> what you think?


Since when does it matter what we think? :laughing:Thumbs Up

Now get a sledge hammer and get that thing fixed!


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1694732 said:


> im comfortable doing it. iv changed the seals on my axles before. its not hard. i jsut dont have a strong enough wrench. found a buddy with one. see ya later.


This is gonna be good.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Hummmm he'd changed seals before but didn't know what its called? He's done them before but didn't remember that the nut is torqued tight. 
And all of us were giving him proper directions and was he even remotely taking anyones advice? See this typical of what his threads are all about. 20 pages of advice and in the end. He does what he wants. So its all a waist of time and effort to teach him anything.


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

How much fluid does the front diff hold? If it's leaking out of the pinion where he says wouldn't that still be half full and aren't they typically only 3/4 full anyways? I can coins on one hand how manyntimes I've done a front diff service. I assume they are similar to the rear. Leaking that much seems really odd to me.


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

So, is it fixed yet? It shouldn't have taken long.


----------



## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

if the front diff is leaking a drop every 30 seconds, in just about a day it would be completely empty. when i had them go bad they just seeped, not an actual drop.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Just left my welders shop. Got the nut off. Going to dealer now for parts. Nut and crush sleve if its got one


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Jguck25;1694760 said:


> if the front diff is leaking a drop every 30 seconds, in just about a day it would be completely empty. when i had them go bad they just seeped, not an actual drop.


Its probably seeping, but gathering at the bottom of the case and dripping from there


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

this truck could use a suspension


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

should of looked these things over when you bought it *Facepalm*


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I did. Its not urgent, more of a comfort thing


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1694761 said:


> Just left my welders shop. Got the nut off. Going to dealer now for parts. Nut and crush sleve if its got one


Ok, easy part is done. Now to get yoke off. Not sure how you plan to get crush sleeve off since bearings are pressed on. Not to mention you need to pull the diff to get pinion out. Gotta pull the axles to get diff out. Gotta pull the spindles to get axles out.

So have fun.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

birddseedd;1694768 said:


> this truck could use a suspension


lol news flash for you. they dont ride well with leaf springs. new shocks will help but it wont make it ride like your 1/2 ton dodge.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Just hammer all the parts in. A big enough hammer says they'll fit


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

kimber750;1694775 said:


> Ok, easy part is done. Now to get yoke off. Not sure how you plan to get crush sleeve off since bearings are pressed on. Not to mention you need to pull the diff to get pinion out. Gotta pull the axles to get diff out. Gotta pull the spindles to get axles out.
> 
> So have fun.


This is what i was thinking but didn't know enough to comment.


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

He shouldn't have to pull the pinion to change the seal. 

As far the suspension, welcome to driving a real work truck. I personally like the ride of a regular cab work truck.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Barings are behind the crush sleeve. Bearings do not need removing


----------



## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

260 posts and counting....

WOW !


Anyway, 

Does anyone remember most of us saying that this truck he purchased, which I believe was one of the CL links he put up in that looking for a new truck thread that was closed down, is the same truck that EVERYONE said was a rust bucket?


IDK.... Maybe I'm just imagining things. I would have sworn that someone, somewhere said.... "don't buy a former plow truck"...


Oh, well...


Sitting back with a beer...


mmmmm ... this popcorn is really good....


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Banksy;1694793 said:


> He shouldn't have to pull the pinion to change the seal.
> 
> As far the suspension, welcome to driving a real work truck. I personally like the ride of a regular cab work truck.


I didn't say seal. Said crush sleeve, since a crush sleeve should never be reused. But still removing seal with pinion in is a PIA.

I agree, a truck should ride like a truck. Should be able to tell when you hit a piece of gum on hot summer day.


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1694814 said:


> Barings are behind the crush sleeve. Bearings do not need removing


There are bearing on both ends of the pinion. PLEASE TAKE TO A REAL MECHANIC!!!!!!


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

please say that you are doing u joints too.


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

Dogplow Dodge;1694816 said:


> 260 posts and counting....
> 
> WOW !
> 
> ...


I ran out of popcorn :crying:


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

xgiovannix12;1694842 said:


> I ran out of popcorn :crying:


here ya go.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I'm going to have to go to two different towns for the CRush sleeve and the nut tomorrow


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

Bird, you don realize people are here to help correct? You are making things too hard on yourself. Sure you're saving a few dollars but by the time you rent tools, pay your welder for taking the nut off, fuel, parts, you could have just spent a little more and let it be someone else's headache. Not to mention you are missing out on time with your wife and child running around doing foolish things. I hope to god you're replacing that U-joint as well. Don't forget diff fluid when you're at the parts store!


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

who needs fluid why not use the old fluid? 












:laughing::laughing:


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

you do not have to remove a bearing to remove the Crush sleeve.

Ford has not released the torque settings and they will not sell you the tools that you need to test what torque setting that currently is Set

I will have to use the debth marking just like everyone else I seen it Do it

Might br irrelivent. I think the trani is going out


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

NBI Lawn;1694865 said:


> Bird, you don realize people are here to help correct? You are making things too hard on yourself. Sure you're saving a few dollars but by the time you rent tools, pay your welder for taking the nut off, fuel, parts, you could have just spent a little more and let it be someone else's headache. Not to mention you are missing out on time with your wife and child running around doing foolish things. I hope to god you're replacing that U-joint as well. Don't forget diff fluid when you're at the parts store!


Rental is free, only 10 bucks to get the nut off


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

birddseedd;1694876 said:


> you do not have to remove a bearing to remove the Crush sleeve.
> 
> Ford has not released the torque settings and they will not sell you the tools that you need to test what torque setting that currently is Set
> 
> ...


100% honest, no BS and I'm not picking on you...just trying to help. Fix what you can and dump it! Start filling those applications or work for a local snow removal company until you are able to purchase something nicer. Withbyour experience I am sure people would be no problem putting you in their truck, just don't try to fix it.


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

birddseedd;1694876 said:


> you do not have to remove a bearing to remove the Crush sleeve.
> 
> Ford has not released the torque settings and they will not sell you the tools that you need to test what torque setting that currently is Set
> 
> ...


So now the tranny is going? great


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Low on trani fluid. Hope thats all it is


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

birddseedd;1694878 said:


> Rental is free, only 10 bucks to get the nut off


Is it done?


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

NBI Lawn;1694881 said:


> 100% honest, no BS and I'm not picking on you...just trying to help. Fix what you can and dump it! Start filling those applications or work for a local snow removal company until you are able to purchase something nicer. Withbyour experience I am sure people would be no problem putting you in their truck, just don't try to fix it.


If nothing else i have my dodge still. I can still plow


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

NBI Lawn;1694888 said:


> Is it done?


Yea. Been done. Iv been at the dealer looking for parts


----------



## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

birddseedd;1694894 said:


> Yea. Been done. Iv been at the dealer looking for parts


What are the parts for if it's done? Your 4wd works and it no longer leaks?

I didn't realize you still had your Dodge. Sell both and buy one decent truck that's not going to nickel and dime you.


----------



## jrs.landscaping (Nov 18, 2012)

birddseedd;1694876 said:


> Might br irrelivent. I think the trani is going out


You didn't buy the truck from Mark did you?


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1694876 said:


> you do not have to remove a bearing to remove the Crush sleeve.
> 
> Ford has not released the torque settings and they will not sell you the tools that you need to test what torque setting that currently is Set
> 
> ...


I am sure I have rebuilt many more diffs than you.

Part 10 & 17 are the outer bearing and race. See that piece right behind it with the #9? That is the crush sleeve. And just for giggles 19 & 20 are the inner bearing and race. Like I said, TAKE IT TO A REAL MECHANIC before you mess it up even worse.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

sigh


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

I think you found your tranny isuse


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

kimber750;1694919 said:


> I am sure I have rebuilt many more diffs than you.
> 
> Part 10 & 17 are the outer bearing and race. See that piece right behind it with the #9? That is the crush sleeve. And just for giggles 19 & 20 are the inner bearing and race. Like I said, TAKE IT TO A REAL MECHANIC before you mess it up even worse.


doesn't surprise me. neither of the dealers around here seemed to know the first thing of what i was talking about.


----------



## SnowFakers (Dec 31, 2012)

Someone make it stop, please


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

xgiovannix12;1694940 said:


> I think you found your tranny isuse


big read pile of snow under the cooler kinda gave it away.


----------



## Kevin_NJ (Jul 24, 2003)

This can't be real.

In all seriousness bird I applaud your determination and desire to earn a better life for you and your family and wish you luck. But for crying out loud listen to the people with more knowledge and are trying to help.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

NBI Lawn;1694899 said:


> What are the parts for if it's done? Your 4wd works and it no longer leaks?
> 
> I didn't realize you still had your Dodge. Sell both and buy one decent truck that's not going to nickel and dime you.


the nut is done, i meant.

the dodge is going to be my wifes truck


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

k1768;1694952 said:


> This can't be real.
> 
> In all seriousness bird I applaud your determination and desire to earn a better life for you and your family and wish you luck. But for crying out loud listen to the people with more knowledge and are trying to help.


no shop would be able to get me in today even if i tried


----------



## bacwudzme (Sep 13, 2009)

birddseedd;1694949 said:


> big read pile of snow under the cooler kinda gave it away.


I bet who ever you bought that truck from did a triple standing backflip and a cartwheel when you drove off with that truck!!!


----------



## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

birddseedd;1694939 said:


> sigh


Put a new hose clamp on it not a big deal if it's not a fitted line.

And just change the damn seal. Don't worry about the crush ring and everything else.


----------



## Blizzard1980 (Dec 27, 2012)

I can't take it no more. 

I must say that from sounds of it he has earned a lot of respect ever since he refused to go on welfare and looking every possible solution to support his family and i stand by him for it. But he has to stop beating himself with these trucks. 
So, since it's Christmas and so on.. i'm willing to start a collection ( or whatever works in this case) and put first $100 on table. I'm sure if plenty of plowsite fellas here would do the same we would have enough $ to buy him a nice truck before next storm. It's a win/win in my opinion.


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

Blizzard1980;1694970 said:


> I can't take it no more.
> 
> I must say that from sounds of it he has earned a lot of respect ever since he refused to go on welfare and looking every possible solution to support his family and i stand by him for it. But he has to stop beating himself with these trucks.
> So, since it's Christmas and so on.. i'm willing to start a collection ( or whatever works in this case) and put first $100 on table. I'm sure if plenty of plowsite fellas here would do the same we would have enough $ to buy him a nice truck before next storm. It's a win/win in my opinion.


god bless you sir :salute:


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Blizzard1980;1694970 said:


> I can't take it no more.
> 
> I must say that from sounds of it he has earned a lot of respect ever since he refused to go on welfare and looking every possible solution to support his family and i stand by him for it. But he has to stop beating himself with these trucks.
> So, since it's Christmas and so on.. i'm willing to start a collection ( or whatever works in this case) and put first $100 on table. I'm sure if plenty of plowsite fellas here would do the same we would have enough $ to buy him a nice truck before next storm. It's a win/win in my opinion.


How do you plan to make this work? Some kind of save the Birdd fund?


----------



## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

Blizzard1980;1694970 said:


> I can't take it no more.
> 
> I must say that from sounds of it he has earned a lot of respect ever since he refused to go on welfare and looking every possible solution to support his family and i stand by him for it. But he has to stop beating himself with these trucks.
> So, since it's Christmas and so on.. i'm willing to start a collection ( or whatever works in this case) and put first $100 on table. I'm sure if plenty of plowsite fellas here would do the same we would have enough $ to buy him a nice truck before next storm. It's a win/win in my opinion.


I'd even put $100 into this. But we gotta put requirements on this, look how freaking rusty that truck is, my 97 with 290k on it doesn't even have that much rust on it.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Whiffyspark;1694962 said:


> Put a new hose clamp on it not a big deal if it's not a fitted line.
> 
> And just change the damn seal. Don't worry about the crush ring and everything else.


unfortunately thats what im gonna have to do. i dont like not fixing things the best way, but to have a shop take it all apart and essentially rebuild the diff would cost a grand.

ill do like the youtube mechanics and just put it on at the same debth as the previous one. after dinner when i fix the trani and belt tensioner


----------



## Blizzard1980 (Dec 27, 2012)

kimber750;1694978 said:


> How do you plan to make this work? Some kind of save the Birdd fund?


That part i haven't figured out yet. Again, between all of us there gotta be more than one idea "how to"


beanz27;1694980 said:


> I'd even put $100 into this. But we gotta put requirements on this, look how freaking rusty that truck is, my 97 with 290k on it doesn't even have that much rust on it.


I think we should make this decision for him this time.


----------



## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

For you guys who are wanting / willing to help Bird, I applaud you.

Helping those who don't want to be helped is a insurmountable challenge. As I posted in the last page, this appears to be the same truck he was asking about prior to purchasing it, and from the few photos he had / links there were, I could see the rust from over 700 miles away.... 

You tell him valuable, intelligent information, and he ignores it like it was some kind of food he didn't like. It's almost as if it's some sort of game being played on the kind hearted folks who peruse PS. Really remarkable that he's being blasted over and over again, thread after thread, and yet, he still fails to see the availability of knowledge being provided to him for free.

Good luck with your fund raising, but IMO, you guys would be better off going to the local house of ill repute and getting a couple of BJ's for the $100 you're going to spend on this hopeless cause. 


I wish him no ill, no harm and as well as things could possibly be for him, but I have my doubts as to if it's even likely he'll approach listening to anyone here.


More popcorn please......my beer is missing some salty goodies to go along with it.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

hey. i didnt get a diesel. 

telling me to pay a mechanic a couple grand doesn't help when i don't have a couple grand.


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Dogplow Dodge;1694995 said:


> For you guys who are wanting / willing to help Bird, I applaud you.
> 
> Helping those who don't want to be helped is a insurmountable challenge. As I posted in the last page, this appears to be the same truck he was asking about prior to purchasing it, and from the few photos he had / links there were, I could see the rust from over 700 miles away....
> 
> ...


I cound have said it better if we were to donate we would not have money for popcorn for this thread and you confused him bj's 100 dollars auto zone said ball joint are 29.99


----------



## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1695007 said:


> hey. i didnt get a diesel.
> 
> telling me to pay a mechanic a couple grand doesn't help when i don't have a couple grand.


Ok, so what do you honestly think it would have costed to get the seal, and u joints done at a shop? Your looking at maybe 3-4 hours absolute tops, with a new guy without a torch doing it. 65-75 hour, plus parts. Come on.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

i thought you werent allowed to touch strippers?


----------



## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

bacwudzme;1694958 said:


> I bet who ever you bought that truck from did a triple standing backflip and a cartwheel when you drove off with that truck!!!


They probably are on plowsite.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

grandview;1695018 said:


> They probably are on plowsite.


do you live in flint


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

beanz27;1695014 said:


> Ok, so what do you honestly think it would have costed to get the seal, and u joints done at a shop? Your looking at maybe 3-4 hours absolute tops, with a new guy without a torch doing it. 65-75 hour, plus parts. Come on.


to answer. best case, (if they can remove and dissassemble the whole diff in 4 hours, around 395

same as my mortgage for janurary.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

ok. now to find my flood lights so i can go finish.


i just want to say tho, a pulley, a hose and a seal, isnt exactly a grocery list of parts. the tires arnt actually broken and dangerous, so they can wait.

wonder how hard it would be to install ac to it. can that be done next summer?


----------



## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

birddseedd;1695028 said:


> ok. now to find my flood lights so i can go finish.
> 
> i just want to say tho, a pulley, a hose and a seal, isnt exactly a grocery list of parts. the tires arnt actually broken and dangerous, so they can wait.
> 
> wonder how hard it would be to install ac to it. can that be done next summer?


If you can't handle simple maintenance, you'll destroy your truck installing A/C. Don't. If I was you, I'd find a technical college near you and take an automotive program.


----------



## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

it doesn't have AC?


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1695028 said:


> ok. now to find my flood lights so i can go finish.
> 
> i just want to say tho, a pulley, a hose and a seal, isnt exactly a grocery list of parts. the tires arnt actually broken and dangerous, so they can wait.
> 
> wonder how hard it would be to install ac to it. can that be done next summer?


..............


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

who needs ac....


----------



## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

kimber750;1695037 said:


> ..............


Phew ! I'm sure glad that wasn't referencing my last post. That would have definitely got this thread shutdown....:salute:


----------



## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

with a mortage of only 300, you must not be charging enough for your work... or only working three days a month... not making fun, but seriously, you need to put aside money for this stuff


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I can handle maintenance just fine. Everything i recieve leaves my posession better than when i recieved it.

Accept my dodge, i tore the body up pretty bad. Its mechanicially sound tho


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Birdy roll the windows down don't open up another can of worms.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Jguck25;1695044 said:


> with a mortage of only 300, you must not be charging enough for your work... or only working three days a month... not making fun, but seriously, you need to put aside money for this stuff


395

But most of my money goes back into the business


----------



## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

kimber750;1695037 said:


> ..............


OMG........ I agree


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

rjigto4oje;1695048 said:


> Birdy roll the windows down don't open up another can of worms.


Cant reach the crank on the other side

Chuckles


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

wish this thread could be closed already Lol


----------



## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1695049 said:


> 395
> 
> But most of my money goes back into the business


Then either you aren't making much money at all, or your putting it into the wrong aspect of your business. Yes putting money into summer equipment is neccesary, but your in winter now, and your winter operation should be your first priority.

As in rather then waste money on things not needed RIGHT now, put money into that truck.


----------



## nixray (Jan 31, 2008)

I'm simply amazed. You got this far, with out knowing what a yoke is. Oo. 

Seeings how you, Bird love to wrench spend $35 buy a Haynes repair manual for the truck. And read it cover to cover. 

You explain you don't have the cash flow to have the professionals to properly and safely fix the tool that provides you, your livelihood. And you DARE think about A/C. It's this thinking that gets you where you are now, that and the fact you didn't have the truck inspected and shaken down. 10 min and a jack and I call tell you if you have bad tie rods/ball joints. 

AND no bird, you don't charge enough. I've told you this before. You do suburb work and bust your chops. So stop leaving money on the table. 



No where's my popcorn?


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Never had to remove a yolk before, so had no need to know what it is. I learn as i go. Its the hard way, but its how i got here.

I did spend money on winter stuff. sub/off the books employee broke it


----------



## mud (Dec 15, 2005)

I do have to wonder why you didn't check that truck out MUCH better when you bought it, especially when you payed so much for it.

As others have said. Take the truck in. Its not going to be a thousand dollar repair, Probably more like 200-300, but it can and will turn into a 1500 dollar repair if you screw it up.

Also as others have stated. Replace those U joints. They are not expensive and as long as you have it out of the truck now is the time to do it.

Now back to my popcorn.


----------



## gallihersnow (Dec 17, 2012)

xgiovannix12;1695054 said:


> wish this thread could be closed already Lol


It'll happen soon enough.


----------



## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

Mark Oomkes;1694677 said:


> Chooooo choooooo
> 
> Can anyone else hear it coming?


Hey.....don't you have 3 trannys to repair? :laughing:


----------



## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

xgiovannix12;1695054 said:


> wish this thread could be closed already Lol


I Vote to make it a sticky so others can learn


----------



## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

1olddogtwo;1695137 said:


> I Vote to make it a sticky so others can learn


Learn what? To give it up?


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I think all the ones that want to help have left

Anyway

Yolk was dang easy to get off. could have done it by hand


Now to put it together


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I dunno. But this is not the same color oil that i saw dripping...


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

birddseedd;1695158 said:


> I dunno. But this is not the same color oil that i saw dripping...


Oh no hear we go again


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Gee. And ya'll are still helping after he didn't listen. Hummm. He's playing everyone. Now he wants a/c. Something just aint right.


----------



## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1695158 said:


> I dunno. But this is not the same color oil that i saw dripping...


Ok, just to point out the obvious here.......is your engine oil the same color after you drive 3-5k miles?

Oil degrades with use, like anything else.


----------



## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

i think he meant the color of oil in the diff wasnt the same color that was dripping... just like many of us thought.. i think you need to check other things, could it have been atf that was leaking instead? it is very uncommon for the pinion seal to leak a drip every 30 seconds for a prolonged period of time


----------



## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

Jguck25;1695189 said:


> i think he meant the color of oil in the diff wasnt the same color that was dripping... just like many of us thought.. i think you need to check other things, could it have been atf that was leaking instead? it is very uncommon for the pinion seal to leak a drip every 30 seconds for a prolonged period of time


Idk, I'm about to give up though. I mean come on for $8500, should have been able to find a rust free or very little rust truck similar to that. I'm sorry but thats ridiculous, don't look at it as "Oh I can fix this, that and the other thing."

You do that for 3k, if the truck is worth 6k. To each his own, but come on, don't jump on the first truck you see. Wait, find a good truck, for a reasonable price. Not a rust bucket for $8500. Buy a taken care of truck for 6k, and a used plow for 2k. Problem solved.


----------



## mud (Dec 15, 2005)

grandview;1695139 said:


> Learn what? To give it up?


What not to do.


----------



## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

beanz27;1695206 said:


> Idk, I'm about to give up though. I mean come on for $8500, should have been able to find a rust free or very little rust truck similar to that. I'm sorry but thats ridiculous, don't look at it as "Oh I can fix this, that and the other thing."
> 
> You do that for 3k, if the truck is worth 6k. To each his own, but come on, don't jump on the first truck you see. Wait, find a good truck, for a reasonable price. Not a rust bucket for $8500. Buy a taken care of truck for 6k, and a used plow for 2k. Problem solved.


That would make to much sense


----------



## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

rjigto4oje;1695222 said:


> That would make to much sense


Tell me about it. Sounds to me like this was a "I have money in my pocket, and I wanna new truck, OH LOOKY THERE! A truck for sale, heres the cash, gimme the title." moment.


----------



## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

Just read the last three pages. Been on the edge of my seat. Did you get her back together YeT ???


----------



## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

quigleysiding;1695259 said:


> Just read the last three pages. Been on the edge of my seat. Did you get her back together YeT ???


doubt it But im ready for bed


----------



## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

i agree, if you gave me 8500 to find a truck and plow, i could have found one in better shape than that... and im in the northeast.

hell i got my 2005 f350 powerstoke diesel in great shape for only 10500 with a plow. sorry bird but that truck should have sold for around 6000 or 6500. 

but dont sweat it, put a bit of money and time into it and it should be a good truck. dont look back, keep looking forward, but dont forget about past mistakes...

and most of all, listen to al the advice on here. i dont post the most, but i bet im right up there with the people that listen the most, and it has helped me tremendously.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I dunno. I swear what was leaking was fresh oil. Its not low on engine oil. nothing is leaking right now but I've only driven around neighborhood.now I'm just trying to get enough transmission fluid in it for to run


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1695283 said:


> I dunno. I swear what was leaking was fresh oil. Its not low on engine oil. nothing is leaking right now but I've only driven around neighborhood.now I'm just trying to get enough transmission fluid in it for to run


Do not run that tranny until it is full of fluid. You will destroy it.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

2.5 gallons so far. I think its finally showing on the dip stick


----------



## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1695304 said:


> 2.5 gallons so far. I think its finally showing on the dip stick


They hold around 16 quarts. 20 with convertor.


----------



## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

you were more than half low... not good... just things to add to the list of things you should look for during your next purchase.


----------



## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

I'm amazed this thread is still going. 

Kimber, would you pass the popcorn please? I'm all out


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Jguck25;1695310 said:


> you were more than half low... not good... just things to add to the list of things you should look for during your next purchase.


That was just a hose clam that popped off. thats not somethign that would have been easily noticed by anyone. new clamp and it seems to work fine. although, i might look into something a bit more sturdy than a hose clamp.


----------



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

its 2 am. but everything seems to be working. no leaks, fluid is full. 4x4 light came back on. I cant seem to get into neutral or 4 low. 

my Stand Assembly is bent on the ultra mount, and i need a new hose.


oh, and the radio won't turn off. but at least i have heat on my feet.


----------



## Stik208 (Oct 19, 2004)

birddseedd;1695326 said:


> its 2 am. but everything seems to be working. no leaks, fluid is full. 4x4 light came back on. I cant seem to get into neutral or 4 low.
> 
> my Stand Assembly is bent on the ultra mount, and i need a new hose.
> 
> oh, and the radio won't turn off. but at least i have heat on my feet.


Put the trans in N push the brake all the way in and put the lever in 4 low.


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## vlc (Dec 8, 2012)

Stik208;1695424 said:


> Put the trans in N push the brake all the way in and put the lever in 4 low.


Or put the trans in neutral, push it out to the street and put a for sale sign in the window. This truck sounds like it's going to be nothing but trouble for you.


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## wislxer (Jan 20, 2011)

If modern online marketing and advertising are all about page views and getting people to click on your site or interact with your product online there is some lesson here that bird is teaching us all.

I'm not sure what it is but I've never seen 18 pages, 350 responses and 6,200 views go this quickly.

Advertising managers dream of those numbers.

Good luck Bird! Keep at it. Obviously we can't get enough of it.

Sorry to go off topic.


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

The virus is spreading ..... If plowsite gave out awards he would get one for being infamous


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## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

wislxer;1695432 said:


> If modern online marketing and advertising are all about page views and getting people to click on your site or interact with your product online there is some lesson here that bird is teaching us all.
> 
> I'm not sure what it is but I've never seen 18 pages, 350 responses and 6,200 views go this quickly.
> 
> ...


We step away momentarily from our topic to commend you on your signature. Ok, we can now resume with our original programming of bad purchases, a useless not-so-mechanically inclined owner that doesn't listen to advice of people that know what they're talking about, and a rustbucket truck that should have sold for 3k.


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## Bossman 92 (Sep 27, 2006)

2006Sierra1500;1695460 said:


> We step away momentarily from our topic to commend you on your signature. Ok, we can now resume with our original programming of bad purchases, a useless not-so-mechanically inclined owner that doesn't listen to advice of people that know what they're talking about, and a rustbucket truck that should have sold for 3k.


You think this is bad just imagine where we would be if he would have bought that diesel with 400k on it.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

if im so mechanically un-inclined, how i have i kept my crap running this whole time?

my plow is partly made out of a jeep bumper. how many other people have made that work?


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

wislxer;1695432 said:


> If modern online marketing and advertising are all about page views and getting people to click on your site or interact with your product online there is some lesson here that bird is teaching us all.
> 
> I'm not sure what it is but I've never seen 18 pages, 350 responses and 6,200 views go this quickly.
> 
> ...


I was thinking the same thing plus technically there's been more post I've been deleted a few times


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Bossman 92;1695475 said:


> You think this is bad just imagine where we would be if he would have bought that diesel with 400k on it.


I wasnt looking at a truck with 400k miles. they were around 250k.

and just for the reccord, all of the diesels were in much better shape than this truck. and this was one of 2 trucks that were available in the top and bottom half of two states.

overall, im satisfied. i think its going to work out great.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

happy kwanza bird


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

did you get it all fixed last night?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1695495 said:


> did you get it all fixed last night?


I do need a new tension assembly. but itl work long enough to order one. and hose for the plow. but its running great, so far. haven't found any leaks. 4x4 functions. The diff's need some new fluid. thats clear. or dark depending on perspective. (oil is black)

but it seems to be working great. ill get out and do some city driving soon.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1695495 said:


> did you get it all fixed last night?


took 3 gallons of trani fluid almost.. $$$


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

For the record, I told Bird to buy my red 98' pickup with front and rear plows plus a salter for $10,500 last yr when I had it for sale on here. I told him it was a great truck that I had put a lot of $$$ into over the last few yrs, and he could really make some money with it. He said he couldn't afford it at the time. Now, it's not the perfect truck by any means, but compared to this one he's got...  Good luck Bird, you should have taken my advice. Exactly what I alluded to in the last thread you had removed from this site: Stupid decisions that cause chaos in your life.


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

so you fixed the pinion seal and did ujoints


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

my bank would not have financed it anyway. in fact there were much better trucks out there. but they said no 1999's. 2k and up.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1695507 said:


> so you fixed the pinion seal and did ujoints


The u joints arnt bad. no need. especially when i was in a time crunch to be ready for plowing


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## gallihersnow (Dec 17, 2012)

Merry Christmas birdd.


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## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

So did you plow with it yet ?


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

So is it back together and ready to go?


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

i would have replaced them. you had 80% of it taken apart.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1695516 said:


> So is it back together and ready to go?


Shy of a hose for the plow. Yep


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

quigleysiding;1695515 said:


> So did you plow with it yet ?


not yet 3 inches turned into a dusting


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

gallihersnow;1695513 said:


> Merry Christmas birdd.


Ty, same to you and yours


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

1olddogtwo;1695490 said:


> happy kwanza bird


Whatcu talkin about Willis


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1695523 said:


> Shy of a hose for the plow. Yep


Good. Steal one from the Meystern and let's see this bad boy in action!


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## GVL LLC (Feb 24, 2013)

change your diff fluids as fast as possible. You wont want to have to replace an axle in one of those. It takes about 10 man hours and sucks. Ive been there. Changing the diff fluid should take you no longer then 2 hours to do both and is so simple.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

I always did a full list of PM's right away on every used truck I bought.


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## mud (Dec 15, 2005)

birddseedd;1695523 said:


> Shy of a hose for the plow. Yep


How do you not have that fixed yet?. Pull the hose off and go have one made. There is at least half a dozen places in my town that will make them and at least three auto parts stores in town that keep them in stock. Your messing with stuff that you don't need to and don't have the stuff you should be worried about done yet. A leaky diff seal wont stop you from working in a storm. A bad hose will. Matter of fact get two hoses and keep one as a spare.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

If you have floor shifter put it in 4hi, now you should be able to push down on the shifter. It should spring right back up. If it doesn't get back under the truck, cut the zip tie on the upper rubber boot of the shifter and spray the hell out of it with wd40, pb blaster, something. Also there is a bolt that the shift assembly pivots on, lube the hell out of this also. These things are known for seizing up. Never try to force the shifter it will break. 

The u-joint you posted a picture of needed replaced.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

kimber750;1695564 said:


> The u-joint you posted a picture of needed replaced.


But that costs payup


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## potskie (Feb 9, 2011)

Banksy;1695568 said:


> But that costs payup


What like $9?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Banksy;1695568 said:


> But that costs payup


I know, A/C comes before regular maintenance.


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

Dogplow Dodge;1694995 said:


> For you guys who are wanting / willing to help Bird, I applaud you.
> 
> Helping those who don't want to be helped is a insurmountable challenge. As I posted in the last page, this appears to be the same truck he was asking about prior to purchasing it, and from the few photos he had / links there were, I could see the rust from over 700 miles away....
> 
> ...


And, Yes Dogplow Dodge...soooo true.


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## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

Seriously? A u joint is so cheap. And when they fail they can cause some major damage. Ask my old boss, driveshaft flopped around and took out the oil pan and transmission pan on his 7.3. a 15 dollar u joint cost him 2k


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Jguck25;1695583 said:


> Seriously? A u joint is so cheap. And when they fail they can cause some major damage. Ask my old boss, driveshaft flopped around and took out the oil pan and transmission pan on his 7.3. a 15 dollar u joint cost him 2k


That's great advice, but it doesn't apply here.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

I think people are jumping on you for no reason 

How can you tell a ujoint needs to be placed by a picture?


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

kimber750;1695575 said:


> I know, A/C comes before regular maintenance.


Well yeah......summer is just around the corner.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Whiffyspark;1695608 said:


> I think people are jumping on you for no reason
> 
> How can you tell a ujoint needs to be placed by a picture?


Simple, the lite rust colored dust around inside of cap. The missing seal off the cap.


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## jrs.landscaping (Nov 18, 2012)

Whiffyspark;1695608 said:


> I think people are jumping on you for no reason
> 
> How can you tell a ujoint needs to be placed by a picture?


You should look at the picture again.... that is a u joint that is not long for the world.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

kimber750;1695618 said:


> Simple, the lite rust colored dust around inside of cap. The missing seal off the cap.


Additionally it's obvious this truck has had little to no maintenance and when you have something apart such as dropping the drive shaft you for a seal you replace both U-Joints too..


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

jrs.landscaping;1695624 said:


> You should look at the picture again.... that is a u joint that is not long for the world.


Eh not exactly. U joints usually get replaced when they are loose or binding. If they move freely by hand I wouldn't worry about it.


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Whiffy, I just did u-joints that looked like that. They were toast. The way the truck vibrated in 4x4 would have made any woman happy.


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

Whiffyspark;1695649 said:


> Eh not exactly. U joints usually get replaced when they are loose or binding. If they move freely by hand I wouldn't worry about it.


Disagree. if you have it 90% apart its crazy not to replace them for short money.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

wils5150;1695697 said:


> Disagree. if you have it 90% apart its crazy not to replace them for short money.


This. It's like changing the timing belt on a little 4 banger and not changing the water pump at the same time or the other way around.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I didnt have time for u joints anyway. So its a moot point. They arnt loose so should be fine. My mechanic will look at it and let me know if they should be done

Frickin dealer doesnt have a hose...


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

Whiffyspark;1695608 said:


> I think people are jumping on you for no reason


 Yup there are a lot of people here that are very negative. If the want to read for entertainment then fine. But why post crap towards him and his truck? Heck I have even seen people bringing his name up whenever there is a craigs list add for a **** box.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1695700 said:


> This. It's like changing the timing belt on a little 4 banger and not changing the water pump at the same time or the other way around.


Its inly 4 small bolts to get it off. Not like i have to break the engine down


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## wils5150 (Jan 25, 2012)

birddseedd;1695701 said:


> I didnt have time for u joints anyway. So its a moot point. They arnt loose so should be fine. My mechanic will look at it and let me know if they should be done
> 
> Frickin dealer doesnt have a hose...


Probably would have taken a extra hour to do the job. Find a hydraulic shop they will make you one on the spot and probably cheaper too


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## mud (Dec 15, 2005)

http://www.yellowpages.com/kalamazoo-mi/hydraulic-hose

Start reading this page. Surely you can find a place that can make one. It takes about ten minutes. Many auto parts stores can as well and so can any heavy truck shop. Napa auto parts in my town makes them as dose several other places. In addition many auto parts stores will stock hoses that will work.


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

Banksy;1695700 said:


> This. It's like changing the timing belt on a little 4 banger and not changing the water pump at the same time or the other way around.


THIS THIS THIS!!!!!!!

U joints shoulda been done, and the tires are bad. Lot of good advice in this thread. But there are definitely two birds of a feather in here


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

mud;1695727 said:


> http://www.yellowpages.com/kalamazoo-mi/hydraulic-hose
> 
> Start reading this page. Surely you can find a place that can make one. It takes about ten minutes. Many auto parts stores can as well and so can any heavy truck shop. Napa auto parts in my town makes them as dose several other places. In addition many auto parts stores will stock hoses that will work.


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## NicholasMWhite (Oct 5, 2008)

Bird, I have the solution to all your financial woe's. Serious advice here...

Call up the discovery channel, reference them to this, and all of your threads. Once they see how popular they are there is no way they won't give you your very own reality show.


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## jrs.landscaping (Nov 18, 2012)

^^^ this, he just needs to find a bumbling sidekick.


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## R75419 (Feb 11, 2012)

NicholasMWhite;1695736 said:


> Bird, I have the solution to all your financial woe's. Serious advice here...
> 
> Call up the discovery channel, reference them to this, and all of your threads. Once they see how popular they are there is no way they won't give you your very own reality show.


Now there is a solid idea....... the world of snow according to Bird.


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

U joints take 20 minutes to replace. Maybe 40 min of work. Service before it needs it, so it's reliable. Tires may be bad, but starting point is those u joints, that will help the vibrating. $40+40 minutes is nothing. Thats not even a tank of fuel, to me at least that little more sense of security is well worth it.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

beanz27;1695831 said:


> U joints take 20 minutes to replace. Maybe 40 min of work. Service before it needs it, so it's reliable. Tires may be bad, but starting point is those u joints, that will help the vibrating. $40+40 minutes is nothing. Thats not even a tank of fuel, to me at least that little more sense of security is well worth it.


it might take you that long it will take me a heck of a lot longer I've never done before


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Sawboy;1695729 said:


> THIS THIS THIS!!!!!!!
> 
> U joints shoulda been done, and the tires are bad. Lot of good advice in this thread. But there are definitely two birds of a feather in here


Tires are not bad


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

wils5150;1695714 said:


> Probably would have taken a extra hour to do the job. Find a hydraulic shop they will make you one on the spot and probably cheaper too


nobody is open


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## SnowFakers (Dec 31, 2012)

You are already crawling under there may aswell do the u joints. Doesn't make any sense to me but what do I know


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

birddseedd;1695850 said:


> Tires are not bad


That's right, I forgot. They're just "wobbly". My bad.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Sawboy;1695873 said:


> That's right, I forgot. They're just "wobbly". My bad.


They arnt broken. Its just a flat spot from sitting. Its not a safety issue


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1695849 said:


> it might take you that long it will take me a heck of a lot longer I've never done before


Youtube video. 2 sockets and a vice. Easy. 20 for you. U joints take me 10 minutes. Its really easy


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1695709 said:


> Its inly 4 small bolts to get it off. Not like i have to break the engine down


Two of which you said you stripped.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

kimber750;1695928 said:


> Two of which you said you stripped.


Bought 4 new ones


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## R75419 (Feb 11, 2012)

Did you get the straps to???? C'mon Bird, so many have given you good advice. When I was down and out, I at least learned from my previous mistakes and made good choices based on the advice I got from others. I have read 50 or more pages about your problems and the recuring theme is that you don't follow suggestions. At least there is entertainment value for the rest of us. Merry Christmas and thank you for at least not sucking up my money through welfare and food stamps. :salute:


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Straps?

I didnt get done till 2am. I did not have time to work on anything else. 

Couldnt even get.the plow going till today.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1696017 said:


> *Straps?*
> 
> I didnt get done till 2am. I did not have time to work on anything else.
> 
> Couldnt even get.the plow going till today.


The two metal straps that hold drive shaft to the front yoke.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

No, didnt replace them


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

The straps shouldn't need replacing. Just clean them up.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

They looked surprisingly ruse free. My mechanic will look at it all


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## dcamp824 (Dec 21, 2009)

Has anybody ever seen Bering sea gold under the ice.. Birds buisness partner should be that guy Steve Riedel. Perfect for each other.


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## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

I am starting to think Bird is the best Internet troll ever. There is no way he can be serious about this stuff.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

NBI Lawn;1696075 said:


> I am starting to think Bird is the best Internet troll ever. There is no way he can be serious about this stuff.


you caught me. i bought an 8500 dollar truck and sabotaged it just so i could take pictures and videos and make people think it was broke.

i have paperwork to do


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## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

birddseedd;1696078 said:


> you caught me. i bought an 8500 dollar truck and sabotaged it just so i could take pictures and videos and make people think it was broke.
> 
> i have paperwork to do


Pretend paper work ? Thumbs Up


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

xgiovannix12;1696083 said:


> Pretend paper work ? Thumbs Up


na. its real. its all part of the master plan, ya see, to afford the truck, i have to actually make money, and because i cannot split it with a real job, i have to get enough customers to pay for my family.


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## f250leo (Nov 23, 2011)

How about the 3 ujoints in the front end for the 4 wheel drive how are they ? Also did you at least grease all Ur zerks? 
Sorry had to ask i just read 22 pages


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

f250leo;1696094 said:


> How about the 3 ujoints in the front end for the 4 wheel drive how are they ? Also did you at least grease all Ur zerks?
> Sorry had to ask i just read 22 pages


Paying my mechanic to do that next week.


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1696101 said:


> Paying my mechanic to do that next week.


Wait hold on.......you won't take in the drive shaft to get new u joints or a seal put in, but you'll take it in to get it greased? Thats bass akwards.


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## f250leo (Nov 23, 2011)

Don't want to tell you negative stuff man but if your plow on the low end of the totem pole per say. You need to do your own repairs to make any real money out of plowing. Sorry but that is that I have seen in the past. Plow turcks specially used ones need maintenance and repair quite often. Which adds up. Specialy if you pay some one to so easy and simple tasks


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

beanz27;1696106 said:


> Wait hold on.......you won't take in the drive shaft to get new u joints or a seal put in, but you'll take it in to get it greased? Thats bass akwards.


repair the seal and u joints. mortgage payment

check out the truck and a few squirts of grease, 40 bucks.

big difference there.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

f250leo;1696108 said:


> Don't want to tell you negative stuff man but if your plow on the low end of the totem pole per say. You need to do your own repairs to make any real money out of plowing. Sorry but that is that I have seen in the past. Plow turcks specially used ones need maintenance and repair quite often. Which adds up. Specialy if you pay some one to so easy and simple tasks


i do most of my own stuff. but he has a lift, and is a pro, itl only cost 30 bucks to have him put it on the lift and give it a going over, then let me know what needs to be done. i fix stuff when it breaks, he can tell me what is about to break.


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1696112 said:


> i do most of my own stuff. but he has a lift, and is a pro, itl only cost 30 bucks to have him put it on the lift and give it a going over, then let me know what needs to be done. i fix stuff when it breaks, he can tell me what is about to break.


Ok, makes more sense then. Here is an idea for you though, and I've done it, and am actually doing it now on a car I may purchase. I am very highly mechanically inclined, and went to school for a diesel ag tech, but I will bring a car or anything gas to the guy I have fix stuff when I don't want to.

He will look it over, and tell me what is wrong, before I buy it. I know what could go wrong, and how to fix it no problem, but I have the guy who works on similar things all day every day and knows the common problems and easy ways to fix it look at it.


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## f250leo (Nov 23, 2011)

Did the front pinion seal on a dakota a while back. I used a impact and marked the threads to reinstall. Still going strong with 250,000 on it. But sold it to a friend who I still talk to


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

birddseedd;1696112 said:


> i do most of my own stuff. but he has a lift, and is a pro, itl only cost 30 bucks to have him put it on the lift and give it a going over, then let me know what needs to be done.* i fix stuff when it breaks*, he can tell me what is about to break.


This one reason you have so much trouble. The goal is to keep it from breaking. Not wait for it to break. First chance you have the money replace those u-joints. And before you say money is tight, how tight will it be if one of those joints lets go and takes out something else? I know you say you can leave with a vibration but your truck may not live thru it. That vibration will go thru entire drive train and it is not designed to be shaking to pieces, why do you think the manufacture balances every thing? So until you get those items fixed drive it only when you need to.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

beanz27;1696120 said:


> Ok, makes more sense then. Here is an idea for you though, and I've done it, and am actually doing it now on a car I may purchase. I am very highly mechanically inclined, and went to school for a diesel ag tech, but I will bring a car or anything gas to the guy I have fix stuff when I don't want to.
> 
> He will look it over, and tell me what is wrong, before I buy it. I know what could go wrong, and how to fix it no problem, but I have the guy who works on similar things all day every day and knows the common problems and easy ways to fix it look at it.


I was wanting to do that, but i was on a time crunch going out of town. it was late before i could even look at it.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

kimber750;1696127 said:


> This one reason you have so much trouble. The goal is to keep it from breaking. Not wait for it to break. First chance you have the money replace those u-joints. And before you say money is tight, how tight will it be if one of those joints lets go and takes out something else? I know you say you can leave with a vibration but your truck may not live thru it. That vibration will go thru entire drive train and it is not designed to be shaking to pieces, why do you think the manufacture balances every thing? So until you get those items fixed drive it only when you need to.


It doesn't do it till 50. ill just stay off the highway for winter. I can access them in the spring and see how it does pulling. i have a feeling ill have to get a new set in the spring.


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## f250leo (Nov 23, 2011)

I put a Chevy 350 into a AMC javelin a long time ago had a custom drive shaft made. A new ujoint failed the shaft dropped took out the gas tank and bent and got caught in the leaf spring. Glad it didn't happen on the freeway


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

birddseedd;1696134 said:


> It doesn't do it till 50. ill just stay off the highway for winter. I can access them in the spring and see how it does pulling. i have a feeling ill have to get a new set in the spring.


My personal thoughts is you'll be lucky to make it to spring on those u joints. I farm, I see more u joints then typical guys, as they are on EVERYTHING, and trust me, those are shot. Just make damn sure you come to a COMPLETE stop before shifting, any real shock to those, will snap them.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

as mentioned, ill be having a mechanic look at them next week. might not even be plowing or driving before then


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## Nero (Aug 10, 2009)

xgiovannix12;1696083 said:


> Pretend paper work ? Thumbs Up


Paperwork in the bathroom.


----------



## dcamp824 (Dec 21, 2009)

Wonder if we'll get 25 pages out of this..


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

birddseedd;1696130 said:


> I was wanting to do that, but i was on a time crunch going out of town. it was late before i could even look at it.


You've probably figured this out already, but rushing to buy anything is rarely a good idea. I would have waited until I was back in town and had plenty of time to look it over. If it was sold before you got back, well it just wasn't meant to be and you'll find another that's a better fit. I've lost out on a few purchases because it wasn't basically an impulse buy. For a day or two after that I was kinda bummed but looking back, I don't feel bad about missing out on whatever it was. I've either gotten along fine without it or I found something better.


----------

