# Mid Route, throwing up flare here.



## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Out on route right now.. sending up a flare ahead of time incase i can't figure this one out.

2015 Mvp3, stopped working after pushing into a hard bank. Pretty normal impact, nothing remotely crazy.

-Handheld Controller seems to be triggering everything fine, no flashing lights.
-Even swapped controller with a brand new spare i have, issue still exists.
- I see no fuses blown truck side or plow side.
- Had 3port 2plug ISO replaced 2 years ago.
- Pump motor also Replaced 2 years ago.
- Big Solenoid Replaced 2 years ago.
-No chaffed wires i can currently see either.
- Everything seems to be getting constant power except for the pump motor, which seems to be intermittent.
- I can hear it engage & pistons nudge a tiny bit, but don't end up going anywhere.

Oddly enough, i broke a big stud off the solenoid/relay while trying to check the connection to it, so this project will be getting chained up & heading back to my yard as my spare seems to be missing from my backpack! The entire Power Lug just came right out of the housing with everything still bolted to it. Seemed to happen way too easy & I'm hoping this was the issue causing intermittent power to motor.

If that isn't the issue, I'm thinking the motor itself.

I haven't thought much further than that rolling around in the snow here. If neither of these solve issue, do y'all have any input?

I'll update as i have time..


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

You need to start there. Most likely the problem.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

What @Western1 said - also, power everywhere is normal as it is a switched ground system


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

cwren2472 said:


> What @Western1 said - also, power everywhere is normal as it is a switched ground system


Ditto. Start there first.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Get 2 so you will have a spare.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Woah now.. you guys are great! I didn't expect responses that fast. Thank you!

Solenoid in.. same issue.

@cwren2472
Edited- .. got my answer & deleted inaccurate info in question as to not spread it.

Also, just to verify, do the triggers of this solenoid care as to what side the B + & - are on? I've always installed them the same way they came off, but have always second guessed myself on what would happen if i got it wrong.

Side note, i just find a rather loose batt ground on passenger side (plow power side). Idk how i missed this, i was just over there the other day cleaning up a hack job that was left for me... I'm hoping this helps explain the horrible voltage drop I've always associated with my underpowered alternator.

I have a strong feeling this underlying underpowered alternator issue is also reeking havoc on my plow motor as well as everything power related that's connected to it. Voltage drops like a mofo (10v maybe even 9v) everytime i need power for more than a couple seconds. I'm sure the amp draw goes through the roof, most likely beyond what these components are rated for.

I say underpowered as my oem is a 136a & still the original. I don't think it produces more than 80a at idle.. Regardless of all this, it needs to be replaced before it kills my somewhat recent batteries.. With my luck & wintertime procrastination, it probably already has.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Scoop'n said:


> @cwren2472
> You mentioned switching ground. Does that mean the big solenoid too, is providing batt +, straight through to the motor at all times & the negative side is the one making/breaking contact? I just want to be clear on that one.


No. It does mean that the small studs on the solenoid have a + and -, the + side will be live all the time and the solenoid is only triggered when the - is activated.



Scoop'n said:


> Also, just to verify, do the triggers of this solenoid care as to what side the B + & - are on? I've always installed them the same way they came off, but have always second guessed myself on what would happen if i got it wrong.


No, it doesn't matter on the big studs or the small studs.



Scoop'n said:


> I have a strong feeling this underlying underpowered alternator issue is also reeking havoc on my plow motor as well as everything power related that's connected to it. Voltage drops like a mofo (10v maybe even 9v) everytime i need power for more than a couple seconds. I'm sure the amp draw goes through the roof, most likely beyond what these components are rated for.


That's a major problem - everything is 12v of course, but the cut off voltage for the module, coils, etc. is 10v. If you are dropping below that, all sorts of stuff will cut out/shut off/not work correctly/etc.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Wow.. Quick response again.. Thank you!

I just deleted that negative ground question but your so fast had you already responded.

About the voltage drop..
Yup. I figured as much.. Need to get that fixed ASAP.

Does anyone here use High Output alternators? I swear i have the weakest alternator out of all the diesel rigs.. the newer 6.7L cummins models have 220a setups or dual 220 as optional.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Most alternators don’t produce 80amps at idel. most will not producing much until they hit 100rpm & won’t hit their max output until 2000 RPM


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

You say the batteries are "somewhat recent" - how recent is "somewhat"? The battery is going to be more important than the alternator as the plow is always going to drain off the battery(ies). No matter how heavy of an alternator you have, it will never be sufficient to power the plow and all accessories by itself.

I would have the batteries and charging system tested.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Are you not giving it time to recharge?
Are all your nonessential items off?


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

And then power saving tips
start raising your blade as you’re running into the pile, the pile will help lift your blade and then lift your plow, 
Slope of the front side of your piles, this will help lift your plow , don’t push straight in and then try to lift your plow or straight in and then back up and lift your plow, 

When it’s time to go forward .
shift to first and start moving forward a couple inches and then Drop the plow. 

I try to only operate my plow when I’m off idel

Batteries, connect them directly together no isolator etc etc. 2 is better than one. 

And then the qualifier , is this one of these lots with concrete islands everywhere?
where the engineer didn’t care about snow removal at all ?
then sometimes it’s necessary to leave it in low gear and take a drive around the block to fill that pool of energy back up.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

dieselss said:


> Are you not giving it time to recharge?
> Are all your nonessential items off?


Non essentials? When I'm trouble shooting, yes. When I'm plowing though most that stuff is needed. Defrost, wipers, headlights, fuel pump, etc & any aftermarket lighting is extremely low current.. Just to give you a sense, I'm not that guy running a gazillion blinkies & lightbars..

Im not sure i know what you mean by, time to recharge.. you need the power when you need it, ya know? I should be able to power this thing whenever, where ever needed.



cwren2472 said:


> You say the batteries are "somewhat recent" - how recent is "somewhat"? The battery is going to be more important than the alternator as the plow is always going to drain off the battery(ies). No matter how heavy of an alternator you have, it will never be sufficient to power the plow and all accessories by itself.
> 
> I would have the batteries and charging system tested.


The batteries are like 2 years old.. last time i replaced them i thought my "weak plow" issues would go away. Truck started a bit easier, but the plow related voltage drop never went away.

I can't say for sure that the batteries are junk yet, but i know for sure the alternator is taxed & is not charging things properly.

Regarding high output altenators..
I was under the impression these plows pull 150a - 180a depending on motor condition/age & are most recently fused @ 200a in case things go haywire.
The Altenator upgrades I've been looking into have output ranges starting at 160a & up to over 200a @ idle. That is at engine idle... & then produce their full rated output (240a-370a options in my case) at a very low engine rpm, like 1200rpm. These are just examples of a few, there are many options available.

I was a skeptic but know a few people & have read of many who have done these "upgrades" & solved their severe voltage drop problems when their grid heaters are kicking on & off on cold days. I've removed mine, but when they were there, so was the drop, didn't matter if i was running 2200 rpm down the road or idling in driveway, the little 136a alternator couldn't recharge/maintain fast enough, even with new batteries. I say batteries as in 2.

My gut is telling me im in for the whole 9 yards here. Batteries, Alternator & if still slow after that, plow motor.

Gotta get back to wrenching here.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Scoop'n said:


> Non essentials? When I'm trouble shooting, yes. When I'm plowing though most that stuff is needed. Defrost, wipers, headlights, fuel pump, etc & any aftermarket lighting is extremely low current.. Just to give you a sense, I'm not that guy running a gazillion blinkies & lightbars..
> 
> Im not sure i know what you mean by, time to recharge.. you need the power when you need it, ya know? I should be able to power this thing whenever, where ever needed.


Yes nonessential while plowing. Do you need the blower on high? Do you need ALL your lights on?
If your alt is only rated for 100amps, your plow takes 200 amp draw and you use power functions to raise, angle full lock.....whens the alt gonna have time to "Fill" the batts back up?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

And don't forget to upgrade the alt wiring and batt wiring and add a extra ground wire to the alt, search big 3


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

dieselss said:


> Yes nonessential while plowing. Do you need the blower on high? Do you need ALL your lights on?
> If your alt is only rated for 100amps, your plow takes 200 amp draw and you use power functions to raise, angle full lock.....whens the alt gonna have time to "Fill" the batts back up?


I gotchya, yes, depending on the weather, i need most these things to be able to see. My aftermarket accessory loads can't be more than 10a.

Exactly, even when Batts were new & the Alternator didn't have any plowing seasons on it, it struggled to maintain.



dieselss said:


> And don't forget to upgrade the alt wiring and batt wiring and add a extra ground wire to the alt, search big 3


Right. I've had the wiring for that, cut terminated & sleeved, just sitting in my parts box for a few years now, just waiting to install once i decide on alternator. Spent damn near 400 bucks on all that cable, terminations & sleeving.


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## NBRam1500 (Nov 22, 2019)

Have your heater blower turned down while using plow 10-20amps there 
Heated seats 20 amps 
Rear defroster 10-20 amps 
I run heated wipers heated steering wheel heated seats for myself and shovel guy
Can tell real quick when I forget to turn everything off. Running the plow with them on my headlights damn near turn off. 
How many Amps is your battery?. Upgrade the battery to biggest amperage you can fit in there. 
Bigger alternator would be great as to charge better between jobsites but it's not going to charge much plowing a lot .


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

What do you mean upgrade to the "largest battery" ? Are you suggesting i look into a larger series?
Unless Im dropping $300 a peice on some dedicated Bass competition battery, they all seem to be somewhat relative in specs within size series. For example, with the common 65 series, all the stuff I've seen all are within 750-850 CCA /1000CA range. Idk if amp hours are the same as CA/CCA, but if that's what your also asking about, i don't know what i currently have in AH capacity. The current batts i have are Interstate MTG-65.

Ironically, my next post was going to regard battery technology, so i may as well address it here in this quote reply & see who responds.

Automotive battery technology isn't something I've followed all that closely. A while back i considered some Optimas but passed on them. 

Fast forward 10years, AGM has become much more standardized with multiple options within a manufacturer series size. There's also 15v Lithium (which i doubt i would attempt to use), my point is, the technology is expanding & it's expanded far beyond my usual selection process.

After purchasing a motor this evening, i swung through Batteries Plus. I explained the load requirements & the viscious cycle of individual part replacements I'm trying to avoid. The guy seemed confident in his suggestion of a Duracell AGM. Apparently the AGM's have better discharge abilities & are marketed for individuals running a lot of accessories. This may be common knowledge to most, but it was new news to me.

In everyone's experience, are AGM's worth the added expense? Who swears by them, who curses them & who just grabs the least expensive option out of all the choices.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

2 Lead acid.
1000 cca 
The biggest (Physically) That will fit in the batt trays

Wallmart’s finest, They’re open 24/seven with a five year warranty.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Scoop'n said:


> What do you mean upgrade to the "largest battery" ? Are you suggesting i look into a larger series?
> Unless Im dropping $300 a peice on some dedicated Bass competition battery, they all seem to be somewhat relative in specs within size series. For example, with the common 65 series, all the stuff I've seen all are within 750-850 CCA /1000CA range. Idk if amp hours are the same as CA/CCA, but if that's what your also asking about, i don't know what i currently have in AH capacity. The current batts i have are Interstate MTG-65.
> 
> Ironically, my next post was going to regard battery technology, so i may as well address it here in this quote reply & see who responds.
> ...


In batteries for plow trucks, you should have batteries with a higher reserve amperage. 
You also need to have more than a 100 amp alternator. 
Even in my jeep, which has very few creature comforts, I have a 130 amp alternator and I use the same battery as in my Silverado, its an AGM battery and if I recall correctly has a reserve amperage os 120.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Hydromaster said:


> 2 Lead acid.
> 1000 cca
> The biggest (Physically) That will fit in the batt trays
> 
> Wallmart's finest, They're open 24/seven with a five year warranty.


1000CCA? Outside of group 31's, do you know of any Auto/Light truck batteries carrying that type of CCA? I've found close @ 930-950CCA in Group65's & Group27's, but thats only with the high end Enersys/Northstar AGM systems. Once you jump off of that ''premium'' tier, im not seeing anything over 850 CCA, in both AGM & Flooded Lead Acid units.



EWSplow said:


> In batteries for plow trucks, you should have batteries with a higher reserve amperage.


That right there is where i keep getting conflicting information.

I was under the impression the batteries with emphasis on higher reserve specs are engineered for deep cycling purposes, as in, no charging happening with vehicle off. More of a low & slow prolonged RV drain feature, than actually adding a additional momentary high drain capability..

For example, I was on the fence today regarding Enersys/Northstar's Group 27 that was out of stock & more $$, but had 195 RC vs the Group 65's 135 RC. The cranking specs on them was just about identical except RC AH & Short Circuit rating. The battery guys led me to believe that the 60minute RC & 30AH difference wouldn't be noticed or benificial in a momentary high drain scenario while vehicle is charging, but would be noticed in a "engine off" drain scenario. Idk, if that sits 100% with me, but two different battery places have mentioned this to me.

At this point i felt i was really getting into the weeds on a decision & although my gut still pointed towards the Enersys 27's, I ended up buying Enersys 65's they had in stock (1750 PHCA, 930 CCA, 1280 HCA, 1070 MCA, 69AH, 135 RC)
I also bought a set of regular lead acid group 31's, just to see if i could fit them in my trays without added drama. If they do fit, ill be getting more CCA for less $$, however bring fitting or not, the utter bulk of them may prove to be a total pain wrenching around them in the engine bay. Can't have it both ways though..


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I probably missed it but what are you driving, and what motor.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Scoop'n said:


> 1000CCA? Outside of group 31's, do you know of any Auto/Light truck batteries carrying that type of CCA? I've found close @ 930-950CCA in Group65's & Group27's, but thats only with the high end Enersys/Northstar AGM systems. Once you jump off of that ''premium'' tier, im not seeing anything over 850 CCA, in both AGM & Flooded Lead Acid units.
> 
> That right there is where i keep getting conflicting information.
> 
> ...


From my experience, there's basically 3 types of batteries; starting, deep cycle and the ones that have a higher CCA, but also reserve capacity. 
The AGMs I mentioned are good for plowing, because when running at low RPMs and not charging at full capacity, there's reserve to run the plow, etc. I've noticed a big difference when running a battery with a higher reserve capacity vs just a really high CCA. The lights don't dim, etc when using the plow at low RPMs. 


Randall Ave said:


> I probably missed it but what are you driving, and what motor.


I didn't see what vehicle he was using.

On a side note, I run one battery, not two. It sounds like he may have 2 batteries. My advice may not be good for his application.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Are you mixing the lead acid and am? Your not supposed to do that FYI


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

dieselss said:


> Are you mixing the lead acid and am? Your not supposed to do that FYI


The plot thickens...


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

What about adding a 6v for a few more volts?


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

The truck is a 06 Cummins, 2 battery system. Sorry, i thought i had mentioned diesel at some point & batteries... batteries as in plural. I should have been clearer.

Lead acid & AM together? What statement of mine gave y'all that idea? Of course I'm not.

6 volt? As in, add a 6v into the mix somewhere?? 

I already got two high end 12v'ers, a 240a alternator on it's way, new 3/0 battery cabling & a big 3 going in.. At this point... The amount of $$ I've invested in the system better fix the damn issue..

I'm confident this has always just been a matter of a anemic alternator.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Probably


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Scoop'n said:


> The truck is a 06 Cummins, 2 battery system. Sorry, i thought i had mentioned diesel at some point & batteries... batteries as in plural. I should have been clearer.
> 
> Lead acid & AM together? What statement of mine gave y'all that idea? Of course I'm not.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you've figured it out. 
240A alternator is huge. Make sure it charges at lower RPM.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Most of our battery issues disappear when we install AGMs in our trucks/equipment. 

Surprised the Batteries Plus guy didn't recommend Odyssey. Just ordered 3 Group 31s for my 750 yesterday.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Mark Oomkes said:


> Most of our battery issues disappear when we install AGMs in our trucks/equipment.
> 
> Surprised the Batteries Plus guy didn't recommend Odyssey. Just ordered 3 Group 31s for my 750 yesterday.


If I buy a truck without at least 160A alternator, I usually upgrade immediately. 
When I upgraded the jeep alternator when Iinstalled the plow, there were still some issues when at low RPMS in tight lots. Couldn't get a decent battery with higher reserve capacity in the grouping for the the jeep, so I got the biggest AGM battery that would fit in the tray. Because of height, i opted for going to side post, which happened to be the same battery i have in my Silverado.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

EWSplow said:


> Sounds like you've figured it out.
> 240A alternator is huge. Make sure it charges at lower RPM.


It creates 200a @ idle.. It's basically the one used in the 6.7's, which is a 220a. The difference being is, it's brand new vs a parts store reman, its all ready to bolt right into mine & the cost was no more than a brand new 6.7 denso that would still require terminal block/plug modification to be compatible..

Hey.. what's plowing with a Jeep like? Ive always thought a jeep with a smaller snowway expandable would be an interesting to rig too try on driveways.



Mark Oomkes said:


> Most of our battery issues disappear when we install AGMs in our trucks/equipment.
> 
> Surprised the Batteries Plus guy didn't recommend Odyssey. Just ordered 3 Group 31s for my 750 yesterday.


They're stocking the X2 Power now, made by Enersys/Northstar. I asked numerous, numerous times & got the same response saying their the same thing as the Odyssey Extremes. I originally wanted 31's, I got a pair to "fit", but they just took up way too much room & was going to make access to the other engine accessories a total pain.

I actually brought the 65's back yesterday & exchanged them for 27's. The fact that i was leaving some extra capacity on the table with a bigger battery i knew could fit, was bothering me.. Plus the fact they had the dual post versions back in stock the day after i bought the single post 65's... i just couldn't talk myself out of it..

Neglable or not, i gain 60 reserve minutes with the 27's, totalling 195 & a 2000a increase in the short circuit rating. Do these things matter in a plowing rig where the 65's were equal in everything but reserve & short circuit? Some say yes, some say no & I've been flip flopping on the answer myself. Either way in the end, I figured the only harm done would be to my wallet & I'd end up as close as i could get, to a regular group 31 lead acid without the physical size caveat..


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Yall ain't going to believe this.. 
So after replacing plow motor, solenoid, upgrading trucks charging system to larger cables, higher capacity batteries, new alternator, i go & hook up to the plow.... & the thing is still buggered..

Same problem.. Same symptoms, right down to the "T".. SMH..
I swear, if i didn't have a sense of humor I'd be losing my mind.

Idk.. i have a gut feeling the pump is frozen as i can hear everything wanting to work but nothing at all is moving...

If it makes sense, i believe the pump has slowly been on the way out. The failure of the motor was exacerbated by this & the low voltage situation, as when i tested the old motor it would barley spin while connected to a jump pack.

When i had the motor out, i did reach up & try to spin the pump shaft with my fingers, it did not move. However, i thought nothing of it as i had never tried to spin it before, i just figured it was normal without a pair of pliers to get a better grip.

I'm going to yank this new motor out & try to verify that this shaft isn't moving, before making any more purchases.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Alright..
For those of you who didn't already pick up on this, apparently i didn't reach up there with my fingers & try to spin the thing. Idk what i was recalling as there's no way to grab it other than with pliers, slim needle nose pliers if you're lucky or some sort of slim spanner. Either way after using a mirror to see up in there, i don't think it's rotated a dang centermeter after all this, as it looks as if it's still clocked in the same position as when i installed the motor last week..

Just a word to the wise, so that no one else tries to get away with this.. I've been using a old plug in style battery charger/jumper to verify whether these motors are frozen up. Even at the "60amp" jump start setting (max for charger), it was never providing enough juice to really spin the motors (new or old), never mind when installed trying to turn the pump (I thought 60a would have been enough to free spin it out if truck). Just out of curiosity, i jumpered the motors with the new truck batteries & even the old one worked.

I put the new one back in & tried jumping real quickly again with the truck batts, but got nothing. That pump shaft has to be frozen.

Three questions for yall..

1. There isn't anything else that would be preventing the pump shaft from spinning other than the pump assembly & or shaft "bearing", correct?

2. Can this be addressed without the need for a new pump? Like rebuild bearing?

3. Is it just best practice to replace entire pump & shaft assembly while your in there.

4. Do either of these processes require special tooling, like Fisher/Western bearing sleeve repair/removal kit. It doesn't look all that fancy & im not sure if it even applies to me as I've never actually seen a complete assembly out of a plow, but i would rather avoid suprises. https://www.storksplows.com/64589-new-western-fisher-blizzard-snowex-pump-bearing-sleeve-repair.html

Thanks everyone. Happy New Year.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Remove and check the pump. You should be able to turn it.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

1 yes
2 if can not worth it
3 YES
4 don’t need special tools


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Like Randall said!


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Western1 said:


> Like Randall said!


I'm putting a Unimount pump together right now, she spins by hand. Just got all the leaves out of the reservoir.


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Let's say i take it out & then starts turning.. but wasn't turning while it was in.? (Just trying to think/post ahead here as I'm half way into it.)

At that point do i get a new one? This is my kind of luck. 

Also, about the seals.
I read something on storks about a certain item/seal not being included in 44328-2 kit.
Assuming the current one is in working order, is it necessary to hold off on everything if i can't get this single spare item today? Everything is closed around here & i got one shop owner meeting me for a pump, i don't know what else he has in stock..


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

MJD s gonna smack me for this. It's New Year's day, of course everyone is closed, my door is locked and I ain't answering the phone. You should be able to spin the pump. Take if off, take it apart, it's only a few bolts. You can take the complete unit off, take it apart on a bench. After you assemble it, bench test it with a battery to make sure it spins.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Replace the seal


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Tell me about it.. my timing sucks.

Yeah, this thing is buggered.. couple millimeters of turn both ways & it hits a hard stop. Can't even budge it with pliers.

Is this the correct literature for a mvp3/xv2

http://library.westernplows.com/doc...el=1&filename=44323.01_070108.pdf&doctype=pdf


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Most likely broken gear in pump


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Western1 said:


> Most likely broken gear in pump


Yeah sure this seal aint sandwiched/pressed between the lower brass sleeve & what looks like the milled flange?
I took the topside short sleeve off, but this seal is coming out in a thousand peices.. It's as if it isn't meant to come out through the top.

The dealer i got the pump from told me he don't touch them on pump installs if they look ok, a certain service pdf references them as reusable, but now it's buggered & needs to come out. It's as if it's expoxied to the aluminum..


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Did you remove the old pump?


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Yes yes.. Old one out.. New one in my hands..
Nevermind my last post.
I tried to edit it after realizing what was happening but i passed the time limit. I was just being too cautious.. Worried about marring the soft aluminum.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Did you take the old pump apart?


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## Scoop'n (Nov 22, 2019)

Finally....! She's singing again! Hopefully this fix lasts a respectable amount of time before something else goes... This will sound dramatic, but I was seriously contemplating just buying a new plow as i was starting to feel pretty unreliable.. At this juncture, I understand why some guys just turn them out every year as the aggravation, parts costs & lost work just isn't worth it. What bugs the hell out of me is my 14yr old truck seems more reliable than my 5yr old plow (granted i just replaced charging system in it, but the truck still worked & was functioning as my DD).

Nah, i haven't taken it apart yet Randall. I had just enough heat left to get that pump in, change a few hydro lines out & make up a new 8" Solenoid to Motor lead. The insulation on the original was all soft & squishy, I could tell it was basically "floating" over the conductors. I went up one gauge on it to 4ga hoping it will pass the current a little easier. I would have liked to do the same on the ground, but it's got that super tight braided sleeved & overmolded terminations.

Anyone know what braided sleeving DD uses? Is it a heat sensitive braided sleeve or is it just a Super HD sleeving they figured out they can shrink with heat afterwards? For example, the batt power side. If it aint shrunk after, idk how they pass those cables through it otherwise, it's so dang tight. I'm not a big fan of how they do the power side like that, theres no need for that amount of rigid strain relief, that far beyond the plugs/terminations... Yeah it's protecting the rest of the cable, but its so rigid its getting sliced & abraided much easier than a more flexible section would. Who knows, maybe it's too deter you from throwing sharp bends in it or something. 

Hey btw.. Nice colors on that pooch.


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