# Need some advice on this snowthrower



## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Hey Guys,
I've had this snow thrower for about 5 years and it has managed to crapout or be already broken during every significant storm. I have a two cycle single stage Toro that is an animal (it was supposed to be back up for this machine...but instead just does all the work). I do mostly private work but sub out to buddies when the snow really flies so I need to keep extra equipment handy. The machine is

*Yard Machines (By MTD) 22" Snow Thrower 5.5HP (Tecumseh Snow King) Two-Stage*
One speed forward, weighted spool rear, serrated auger, chunky tires

On paper it looks good but the engine runs like poo, when the engine has managed to run longer than 10 minutes the impeller likes to clog and slip the belt till you clean it out....even with lubed auger/impeller/chute.

Anyone have any experience with this setup? Anyone had it work well? I am tempted to get a professional to look at it but I don't want to sink more money or time into it unless someone has good feedback on it. Seems like it should be a really good sidewalk machine to keep at the house

Any input appreciated...


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Here's a pic of the Toro...she's a beast. Can't find a pic of the other yet...


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Found a pic. My neighbor recommended repowering it with a Harbor 
Freight 6.5hp Greyhound (rebadged honda). His runs great and the motor is only $99.


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## leon (Nov 18, 2008)

*snowbloweritus*



Dubl0Vert;1379113 said:


> Hey Guys,
> I've had this snow thrower for about 5 years and it has managed to crapout or be already broken during every significant storm. I have a two cycle single stage Toro that is an animal (it was supposed to be back up for this machine...but instead just does all the work). I do mostly private work but sub out to buddies when the snow really flies so I need to keep extra equipment handy. The machine is
> 
> *Yard Machines (By MTD) 22" Snow Thrower 5.5HP (Tecumseh Snow King) Two-Stage*
> ...


I would do a few things before you ship it to the smelter:

1.Buy one of clarences impeller kits for the snow fan

2. buy fresh marine or aviation gas and some sea foam
a. drain the old fuel and the fuel bowl of old gas
b. 5-30 oil change

3. new spark plug
a. take off the blower housing and remove any mouse apartments 
b.new coil(it does not take much for them to go bad quickly 
c. compression test
4.change the belt(s) and use the kevlar belts/green belts from TSC or NAPA
run several tanks of fresh gas mixed with SeaFoam through the snow caster.

Worse comes to worse, the carburator should be tossed and a new one installed as this is the usual problem.

If you still like the blower replace the engine with a Hatz diesel or higher horsepower ready to install Honda that has a fuel shut off for the fuel tank as thta is a major issue with any engines with gum and varnish deposits whre the fuel can be shut off and run out every day.


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## IsaacCarlson (Dec 7, 2011)

Tecumseh engines have always given me problems. I end up removing the non-adjustable carb and installing a new one that can be tuned properly. I would just go with the new motor if I were you, as it would be more cost effective than doing all the other things


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## NorthernSvc's (Mar 12, 2006)

it's an mtd... throw it away, and get an ariens...or toro!!


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

IsaacCarlson;1379451 said:


> Tecumseh engines have always given me problems. I end up removing the non-adjustable carb and installing a new one that can be tuned properly. I would just go with the new motor if I were you, as it would be more cost effective than doing all the other things


Glad you said that...I thought I was nuts...there IS NO adjustment on the carb.:realmad:


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

NorthernSvc's;1379586 said:


> it's an mtd... throw it away, and get an ariens...or toro!!


See post #2....and unfortunately I didn't win the pick six sooooooooo I gotta work with what I've got


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

> On paper it looks good but the engine runs like poo, when the engine has managed to run longer than 10 minutes the impeller likes to clog and slip the belt till you clean it out....even with lubed auger/impeller/chute.


I wouldn't bother wasting money on repowering it until you figure out the impeller clogging issue. I think a clarence kit will help tremendously in that area.


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Leon or Mayhem...Have you ever put one of the Clarence kits on a plastic impeller? I'd love to do that upgrade but I'm worried it might snap the impeller or strip it out. The belt looks pretty stretched so I am grabbing another from Wally world this afternoon.


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Go figure....I pulled it out of storage, put a drill/starter on it.....and it fires right up (I use StaBil in everything). It warmed up through the choke sequence just fine. Did an oil change, plug, tightened auger belt, and it seems to run Ok.

Engine runs a little rough with a miss (i get that big air pulse out of the exhaust) maybe 3 per 10 second interval. It might be a lean miss since the exhaust smells pretty clean, and its no where near the rich exhaust I get from the Toro....keep in mind its 58* here in Merryland. Throttle response is good, no stumbling when going to WOT, easy to restart warm or cold at this point.

Before I repower, I might take a run up to the local power equipment shop and see about the price of a carb with an adjustable high speed circuit so I can ritchen it up for cold weather use.


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

Dubl0Vert;1380401 said:


> Leon or Mayhem...Have you ever put one of the Clarence kits on a plastic impeller? I'd love to do that upgrade but I'm worried it might snap the impeller or strip it out. The belt looks pretty stretched so I am grabbing another from Wally world this afternoon.


Nope, in fact I've never used one at all. The photo you poted sure looks like stamped steel augers. Those yellow things are plastic?


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

No, you're right, the Yellow Augers are steel. The Clarence kit mounts to the impeller behind the augers...which sadly is made of plastic. It seems really sturdy but Clarence's website doesn't recommend the kit for plastic impellers.


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## leon (Nov 18, 2008)

*impeller kit*



Dubl0Vert;1381716 said:


> No, you're right, the Yellow Augers are steel. The Clarence kit mounts to the impeller behind the augers...which sadly is made of plastic. It seems really sturdy but Clarence's website doesn't recommend the kit for plastic impellers.


The plastic impeller s do not have enough internal mass and strength for one of Clarences kits. The way they are made they appear to be injection molded plastic-the plastic impeller on my John deere front mounted 44 inch 2 stage does not appear to be very strong as it has thick impeller paddles, UGGGGHHHHH!!! time will tell if it survives the winter here though.

Thye plastic impeller is a compromise of sorts to reduce possible damage to the snow casters bearings and shell as the bearings are small sealed bearings AND 
There is no gearbox to take power from V belt with an oversized pulley diect coupled to the impeller shaft. The two shear bolts in the impeller shaft have me wondering!!??????
UUUUGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!

Easier to buy a small molded plastic impeller and build impellers for the high end units the build for Kubota JD and others

Of course RAD loves JD and every other builer they contract to build attachments for!!!!!

UUUUGGGHHHH!!!!, You would think for the $1,400 USD or so that I shelled out for the snow blower when I bought the new mule the bearings would have been greasable!!!!!, and no, I could not afford a better upgrade. A lot of JD owners are happy with the 44 inch snow caster and the LA115 though and this winter will be my first with it.


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Wow! I hope JD thought that one through..... I'm curious to see how it does for you this winter. I see what you mean about the compromise between weight and bearing longevity....still sucks to have a plastic impeller and non-serviceable components in a product that you hope to pass on to your grand kids.


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

I really need to take this computer out of my shop....


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## IsaacCarlson (Dec 7, 2011)

John deere has been getting cheaper and cheaper in the recent years. There was a time when I would have bought a john deere without thinking of any other brand......not anymore.

There are now much better mfgs than john deere....


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

as stated elsewhere...silicone is a snowblowers best friend....a good coat of silicone will reduce the hp need


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## toroman1992 (Dec 5, 2011)

NorthernSvc's;1379586 said:


> it's an mtd... throw it away, and get an ariens...or toro!!


AMEN! Toro all the way!


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

You said it, my Toro is the workhorse!


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## bliz&hinikerDLR (Dec 30, 2011)

Ok, Tecumseh engines went onto about 90 percent of two stage snowblowers because they were good cold weather engines ... not because they were cheap. Your running problem should be solved by a good small engine tech cleaning and re-jetting the carb. The carbs are not adjustable but any tech worth his wrenches should be able to re-jet the carb to correct the lean running condition. After that is done just use good fuel and store it properly and it will run well.
Th MTD machine on the other hand is a different story. The best thing you can do is be sure the auger drive belts are OEM MTD belts and installed properly. These things run like crap with aftermarket belts. Once you got the new belts on don't overload it ... it is just an MTD. :-(


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback, I have been considering a new carb as my local shop has rebuilt the carb twice with no permanent solution. 

I have just added a fuel filter (none stock) to try and cut down on the gunk that might make its way to the tank and thus the carb.......wich it ran like my toro

will the newly added filter screw up my jetting? it is a gravity fed


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## bliz&hinikerDLR (Dec 30, 2011)

> will the newly added filter screw up my jetting? it is a gravity fed


shouldn't ... the fuel just runs into the bowl until the bowl fills up and is shut off by the float & needle valve. The jet uses the venturi (vacuum) effect to pull gas out of the bowl and into the intake.


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

Ughhhh just realized I haven"t fixed this yet:realmad:


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