# So what would you use if you wanted to step up to a bigger alternator on the cummins



## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Im specifically talking about an 09 6.7 2500 , I put a bigger pump on last week, a 3.1 cc/rev went to change up my 810 to the bigger lift cylinder , but it wont fit in the cage down there on the frame, I already have the bigger 1789 motor, so im back to the small lift cylinder again, the blade lifts pretty quick but it seems to draw a lot more on the batteries, last plow I looked down to see a check gauges light on and my voltage was below 14 a fair bit, im suspicious that the plow solenoid had stuck on for a bit as the motor was fairly warm to the touch, and I had noticed when I hooked up the blade the other day that the motor didn't shut off on the power hitch when I released the switch, ill get a new solenoid today to eliminate that possibility again, the voltage came back up again after that and sticks right to 14v since, I have 2 new 850cca group 65 batteries in there so im not suspecting them , but with the alternator ive been thinking about putting in a denso 421000-7001 or a 421000-0510, 220amp and 160 amp respectively , anybody try either of those and are they a simple bolt in compared to what I have in there right now, ive never ever had any problems ever with just the stock alternator before now , but I also don't want to start now


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Are you originally from Missouri?


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Mark Oomkes;1933355 said:


> Are you originally from Missouri?


I think he is.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Nope you are both wrong


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Ever use one of these . its called a period.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

1olddogtwo;1933369 said:


> Ever use one of these . its called a period.


I hyperventilated trying to read that post.

And I'm still trying to understand what his issues are, since they are all jumbled together.

cl, start over. Use periods. Use paragraphs. Start with what problems you're having, what you've done so far and finally what you are asking.


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## Defcon 5 (Mar 20, 2014)

I thought it was "Cummings".............


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

How far down past 14?


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

" a fair bit"


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

SnoFarmer;1933708 said:


> " a fair bit"


Silly me, I didn't have my dodge translation book with me at the time of reply. A fair bit has got to be at least....and more than.....But it's not as bad as....
So I'd say normal.


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## Ramitt (Mar 12, 2013)

If you bought your truck new and still have the built sheet look at what alt they put in. If not you can email ram and get your build sheet emailed to you. Im not that familiar with the new 6.7's but I think you could upgrade to a bigger alt. Also believe the snow package came with the bigger size. If not you can up grade to the mean green alt's but they run about 400.00. Also check your batterys they are going on 6 years old so might be time to replace them.


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## NBI Lawn (Oct 15, 2007)

It took a while but I got through your post. If I were you I would ask your local auto parts store about local alternator shop. There must be a store near by that rewindes the internals ton offer more juice. There is one (or more) in the Twin Cities metro.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

dieselss;1933481 said:


> How far down past 14?


 Well by looking at the factory gauge id guess 12 or less , but enough to set off my check gauges light, which have never seen come on before.

Ive looked at the mean green , DC power, stock alternator is 136amp, but with different loads on other trucks you can step up to a factory Denso 160 amp , or even a 225amp. The problem is the latter is for a 6.7 in a 5500, cant see why it wouldn't just drop in as they 2500 3500 5500 all use the same 6.7
I haven't really found a listing for the big alternator in the smaller chassis, reason probably is that the stock wiring , fuseable link coming from the alternator would have to be upgraded to compensate, and that's where I was wondering if anyone has done that


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Well by looking at the factory gauge id guess 12 or less , but enough to set off my check gauges light, which have never seen come on before.

You'd guess? Get an exact number.
Factory gauges aren't that accurate btw.
A lot of small moves, not a lot changing time will cause the batts to drain. 
The upgrades to the plow will be taxing on the stock stuff. Before you dump a ton of coin into an alt. Upgrade the output wire, add a gnd wire to the alt, and Ck the truckside power and grounds.


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## GLS (Nov 22, 2001)

We are running the 220A denso (factory unit for 5500 ambulance package, mopar part# 4801313AC) in our '08 cummins.

Easy swap, same belt. We did upgrade the wiring as well.

We also are running an upgraded pump and motor on a blizzard 810.

No issues with current draw on the plow. I'm assuming your grid heater is not running when you are getting the voltage drop? Even with the upgraded alternator, we get a big drop in voltage from the grid heater.

Also check your connections. We have had battery terminals slightly loose, causing batteries to drain. We have to severely tighten the terminals on this truck to keep snug.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

dieselss;1934955 said:


> Well by looking at the factory gauge id guess 12 or less , but enough to set off my check gauges light, which have never seen come on before.
> 
> You'd guess? Get an exact number.
> Factory gauges aren't that accurate btw.
> ...


By saying I would guess, means it was an educated guess, meaning I had turned on my insight to monitor voltage after the fact. My grid heater pulls my batteries down to the lower 11 volts, and that was where in proximity my needle was sitting the day my check gauges light had came on, I see how in accurate the factory gauge really is as it varies up and down slightly without the insight changing at all


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

GLS;1935313 said:


> We are running the 220A denso (factory unit for 5500 ambulance package, mopar part# 4801313AC) in our '08 cummins.
> 
> Easy swap, same belt. We did upgrade the wiring as well.
> 
> ...


 Now that is what I wanted to hear, somebody who has actually done it, all the sites I have looked at say that the 421000-7001 isn't the right fitment, and yet other sites say it is. 
So now I will just have to find one on line that's affordable now.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

So I picked one up at the wreckers, it had 34k km on it so it should be good to go. It was supposed to be out of a 2013 , the guy who sold it to me said it might not fit an 09 because he just sold it to a guy and he already brought it back because the field wire plug was different than on his.
But I just checked it on mine yesterday and it plugged right in, so I went back to the wrecker today to get the actual charge wire from the alternator to the battery , as my 136 amp wire will surely be too small. 
I notice the wire doesn't have any fuseable link in it , but rather a end on the bat end that looks like it fit on a 1/4" bolt ...wouldn't even go right to the battery as it is too small. My question is for anyone, is there some sort of fuse this wire would bolt to before it gets to the battery, I cant see it being hooked up without a fused link somehow


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## gasjr4wd (Feb 14, 2010)

google "the big three upgrade" for wiring.
Then think about the larger alternator.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

I often plow and salt at the same time with no issues with my stock 06. Some might big deal but the salter is a Snowex 8500 w/ vibrator and a Sno-way Revolution plow. I would suspect a tired motor on the plow or a bad ground causing the issue.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Before you do anything upgrade the wire from the alternator to the battery, it's a waste of time to upgrade the existing unit if you haven't already done this. Install a 250 amp fuse (not a circuit breaker) on #4 wire, it will let your stock alternator work to capacity.


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