# how can I beef up trans for plowing



## sparksrides (Dec 1, 2008)

so I just had my trans rebuilt on my 99 f250 7.3 psd and I have all ready added two large trans coolers with electric fans on each and a trans temp gauge but I was wondering if any one had any tricks or ways to make sure it will last.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

How about a shift kit? The two coolers should be more than enough to keep it happy.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

sparksrides;1355998 said:


> so I just had my trans rebuilt on my 99 f250 7.3 psd and I have all ready added two large trans coolers with electric fans on each and a trans temp gauge but I was wondering if any one had any tricks or ways to make sure it will last.


Shift kit....one of the big issues for automatic transmissions is the clutches slipping causing them to heat up. With a light shift kit it will have less slippage when shifting. With what you've done, a shift kit and just common sense like coming to a complete stop before backing up or going forward should keep it in check for awhile. Also I recommend changing fluids and filters every year. But remember, its a mechanical thing so anything can happen, I never had much luck with rebuilt tranny's.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

Forgot.....or if it's computerized have someone change the shift points and pressure, thats what I did in our 06 F250.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

We actually gave up on getting our 4R100's rebuilt locally. Ford offers a remanufactured heavy duty version right through Ford Parts and we've been putting them in. They shift a lot firmer than the original transmissions that came with the trucks or the locally rebuilt ones we were getting. Better yet, we haven't been able to blow one up yet.


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## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

First off, Get rid of the extra Trans Cooler.

If you have a second one in there you potentially can reduce flow and pressure back into the transmission.

Get one good big and good one and call it a day. If you still have heat problems with the trans with one auxiliary cooler, then don't drive it quite as hard.

....


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## nevrnf (Oct 12, 2005)

For a 99-03 4r100 the best cooler is a 31 row cooler that came stock in the 03-07 superduty. The next thing is to contact BTS
Brian is the best in the industry in building a bulletproof 4r100. He has a valve body for about $200 that is set up for increased line pressure and quicker shifts. Lastly if you are having a trans done locally have them install the FULL TransGo tugger kit. This is by far the best upgrade that can be done to a trans during a rebuild to fix some of the inherent flaws in its design.


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## fordsuvparts (Jan 7, 2008)

I agree 100% with nevrnf, I installed a 2005 6.0 super duty trans cooler in both my 99 f250 and they have been great, also added the ford synthetic additive when we do the flush each spring. A trans temp gauge is a nice add on as well.


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## Plowtoy (Dec 15, 2001)

nevrnf;1356270 said:


> *For a 99-03 4r100 the best cooler is a 31 row cooler that came stock in the 03-07 superduty. The next thing is to contact BTS
> Brian is the best in the industry in building a bulletproof 4r100. He has a valve body for about $200 that is set up for increased line pressure and quicker shifts. Lastly if you are having a trans done locally have them install the FULL TransGo tugger kit. This is by far the best upgrade that can be done to a trans during a rebuild to fix some of the inherent flaws in its design*.


I dont know about Brian, but I will back up everything else you said. I will say if you have a local trans guy that knows these transmissions, they can be built to be pretty much indistructable. The tugger kit is a *must*, even if its only a partial at this point, i would have it done. Also, as I have stated in other threads here, the torque converter is where you should spend some money, they are notoriously weak behind the diesels. I have been told though if you don't do too many hard starts, or let off the throttle and then back on again real hard, you can make the OE converters last.


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## sparksrides (Dec 1, 2008)

can I do a partial tugger kit cause the web site for transgo say's the trans has to be removed from the truck and I just got it back together? also any one know where to get a 31 row super duty cooler for a reasonable price? what I'm running now is two 8x12 coolers but what your are telling me is one large one is better?back in the day I had a buddy with a super charged mustang that kept going through tranny's so the guy building them put a large A/C condenser in as a tranny cooler, I wounder if that would be too much?


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

Flush your trans every year. Watch your temps, in my experience, 170 is too high for the cold plowing, and make sure you come to a complete stop before shifting always. 

And get a good factory trans cooler. Either run the 6.0L cooler or the V10 cooler.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Most important thing is proper shift technique. Use a [R] - [D] - [R] - [D] system. It takes a while to get used to, but your entire truck will be happier. Higher engine rpms will increase trans fluid flow through the cooler, and make the alternator's job mulch easier. Compression braking will help your brake pads last longer to. Most importantly, no upshift during the push, which makes any shift kit irrelevant.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Pinky Demon;1358577 said:


> Watch your temps, in my experience, 170 is too high for the cold plowing


As opposed to warm plowing?

170* is not too high. It's warm enough to expel moisture to prevent internal corrosion but isn't detrimental to either the fluid or trans.


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## Evil Diesel (Nov 9, 2011)

Agreed. 170 is not too hot for the trans. The tugger kit can be installed with the trans in place. It makes for a messy job and there are a few check balls that will fall out , but the instructions with the kit show u where they belong when putting it back together. The only part of the kit that can't be installed with trans in is the front pump modification. on my 4r100 I had a tugger kit,PI stallion torque converter,mag-hytec pan and amsoil synthetic oil. Worked awesome


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## Cooter24 (Nov 13, 2007)

Is it better to shift to 1st gear or D/OD? Lots on plowsite say 1st gear less shifts, which is a plus. Small lots it may not shift regardless. But isn't it better for the sprag gears to engage, which do not when you shift to 1st gear?


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

2COR517;1358593 said:


> Most important thing is proper shift technique. Use a [R] - [D] - [R] - [D] system. It takes a while to get used to, but your entire truck will be happier. Higher engine rpms will increase trans fluid flow through the cooler, and make the alternator's job mulch easier. Compression braking will help your brake pads last longer to. Most importantly, no upshift during the push, which makes any shift kit irrelevant.


My mistake. Should shift from R to 1.

[R] - [1] - [R] - [1]


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## Cooter24 (Nov 13, 2007)

By doing this the sprag gears will not engage, and u are relying strictly on the clutches to hold. So is it really better to shift to 1st gear?


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

B&B;1359434 said:


> As opposed to warm plowing?
> 
> 170* is not too high. It's warm enough to expel moisture to prevent internal corrosion but isn't detrimental to either the fluid or trans.


No, for the trans it's not, under normal driving conditions. But if your reaching those temps idling around a lot in the middle of the freezing night, somethings up. I noticed I had to work the truck pretty hard to reach those temps, and so I try to keep below them when plowing.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Pinky Demon;1362159 said:


> No, for the trans it's not, under normal driving conditions. But if your reaching those temps idling around a lot in the middle of the freezing night, somethings up. I noticed I had to work the truck pretty hard to reach those temps, and so I try to keep below them when plowing.


There are many trucks out there that will run 160-170* under "normal" conditions without continuing to climb too much once it's actually working. It's all dependent on external cooler size, flow and temps on the cold side of the radiator. When you have one that will run around 170*-180*-ish under most any conditions you have a good one.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

B&B;1362184 said:


> There are many trucks out there that will run 160-170* under "normal" conditions without continuing to climb too much once it's actually working. It's all dependent on external cooler size, flow and temps on the cold side of the radiator. When you have one that will run around 170*-180*-ish under most any conditions you have a good one.


In my experience on 3 different Fords, 2 with V10s, 1 with a 7.3L, is that most will never see 170 unless you are really working them. I'm not talking traveling around, I'm talking about idling around on a lot pushing snow.

On my personally, I noticed that when the temp climbed up, the shifts in and out of drive were not as smooth and the occasional 1 to 2 was a little clunky.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

My dad chip his and the program changes the Tran its a 99 F350 7.3 never had a problem and push lots snow in the yrs he owned it since it was new


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## Plow_king (Nov 2, 2006)

how many miles do you have on your trans? rebuilt or not? tuner?


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## Plow_king (Nov 2, 2006)

that question was directed to anyone.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

216k on the 4L60.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

2COR517;1363121 said:


> 216k on the 4L60.


No offense buddy, but I think you got the wrong forum.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

This is Plowsite, right?


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

2COR517;1363705 said:


> This is Plowsite, right?


Nope, this is WhattiresshouldIbuysite. Sorry.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Pinky Demon;1364745 said:


> Nope, this is WhattiresshouldIbuysite. Sorry.


That explains so much around here lately....

:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## Plowtoy (Dec 15, 2001)

sparksrides;1357465 said:


> can I do a partial tugger kit cause the web site for transgo say's the trans has to be removed from the truck and I just got it back together? also any one know where to get a 31 row super duty cooler for a reasonable price? what I'm running now is two 8x12 coolers but what your are telling me is one large one is better?back in the day I had a buddy with a super charged mustang that kept going through tranny's so the guy building them put a large A/C condenser in as a tranny cooler, I wounder if that would be too much?


Sorry for the delayed response, I was out on vacation for a few days. First thing, I would go to a local trans guy who really knows theses transmissions. They most likely will be able to do some of the tugger mods by just removing the pan and valve body. It wont be a complete tugger kit but it will definitely help (I've had this done to both 4r100s ive had) If you at some point have to pull the trans back out, you could have the internal parts of the tugger kit done then (I did that after the torque converter failed on my first 4r100). As far as the cooler, check with a salvage yard. I think they said one off a 03 will work. I suspect it needs to be from a 6.0, because that is the year they came out, so I don't know if an early 03 with a 7.3 will be any different than what you have. If you do buy a used one, be sure to have it flushed before you install it in your truck, sure would hate to contaminate your trans with any unknowns in the used cooler


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