# quick lug nut question



## Andy96XLT (Jan 1, 2009)

I have a quick question about the lug nuts on my 1995 F250. The truck came with fancy rims and tires with specialty lug nuts. I bought a set of stock wheel/tires and got some lug nuts with it but am having an issue. The lugs I got with the wheels are acorn style and look like the tapered end should go towards the wheel, however they are extremely tight to install that way. If I turn them around so that the flat end is going against the wheel they screw on no problem... This makes no sense to me whatsoever... Am I right that the tapered end should be going towards the wheel to center the bolt holes on the studs or am I missing something? I checked to see if maybe the one nut or one stud was stripped or something but they are all like this. Any input? I was hoping not to have to plow with these giant tires again but It looks like it might have to happen.

Thanks All!


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

There are 2 types of setups. Lug-centric and Hub-centric. All the newer fords are hub centric meaning the wheel is centered by the centerhole and the hub. Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric meaning centered by the lug nuts flare mating surface, but I have seen plenty of hub centrics also. If the wheel has a flat surface than it without a doubt is hub centric and should only use flat lugs, but I can not say for certain that yours are appropriate. Normally the mating surface will be flared or have a pressed on washer. If the lug holes are tapered than you need tapered lugs and most likely the wheel is lug centric. There are also different tapers for steel lug centrics and alloy wheel lug centrics.

As for the tightness it could be anything. Not impossible that the lugs are bad, also possible that the threads are not clean enough. For starters I would chase the thread with a die and maybe tap the lugs if needed.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

with out seeing them To make sure them are right nuts for them stock wheels 
Tell you this taper end goes toward the rim


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## snowplowpro (Feb 7, 2006)

I have acorns on mine but the tapered end goes into the wheel


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## Andy96XLT (Jan 1, 2009)

Im gonna keep the big tires on for now, I'll have to look more into this after this weekends snow. I figured the tapered end needed to go in. Thanks everyone!


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

Last time I checked, a 1995 F-250 was lug centric. That would mean the tapered end goes towards the wheel. I'd suggest you run a thread chaser through the lug nuts as you probably have a burr in there. Or, you could take them back to where you bought them and show them the problem. In fact that's probably the far wiser choice.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Put a bit of anti-seize or high temp wheel grease on each stud. Start the lug nut by hand at least 1/2 way on. Some ham handed tire guy may of shot them on with the air impact and screwed up the threads. The newer lug nuts are not what they used to be. Seem to be kinda wimpy. My tire guy has told me all this.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

If they're damaged then don't mess around. Replace them.

As for anti-seize...I've had some awful seizing in the past few years (and read an article about weaknesses in studs that made me think this would be a good idea) so I decided to give it a try. It's worked well for me in other places, so I figured why not. Well sure enough I had a wheel come loose at speed. Luckily it didn't come loose so fast that I couldn't pull over and fix it. I guess thread friction and a little seizing are important to keep the lug nuts on during differing rates of thermal expansion/contraction of the wheels/studs/etc and all the various stresses they encounter while driving.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I pointed out the same thing. My tire guy says if the lugs are correctly tightened they will not come loose. I have been doing it 20 years and have never had a problem. I also use a torque wrench to make sure the lugs are at the correct torque.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

I used torque sticks and I know folks don't have faith in them but I check mine regularly with my torque wrench and they're always spot-on. I think it was a combination of the anti-seize, thick straight-aluminum aftermarket wheels, and changing temperatures...thermal expansion and what not. Common OEM alloy wheels likely wouldn't expand/contract the way thick straight aluminum does.


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