# Arctic sectional rubber blocks



## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

So I have been trying to think of a way to better the rubber block system on my sectional. Why couldnt I cut a piece of tire tread and drill holes in it. Tire has steel belts so I dont think it would break. I know how tuff tires are to cut and would probably have to cut it with a chop saw. Any other thoughts?


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

These blocks?


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

BUFF said:


> These blocks?
> 
> View attachment 189789


yes


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

They have stops out now might help


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

I don’t think a tire will have the ability to hold the panel in place where it needs to be, save for perhaps a semi tire.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

John_DeereGreen said:


> I don't think a tire will have the ability to hold the panel in place where it needs to be, save for perhaps a semi tire.


And I was thinkng it might be too stiff. I was also thinking one of those super wide semi tires and cutting it across so it wouldnt have the curve to it.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

If you want to try it I believe guys on LD's are putting in a thicker poly block in all the bottoms spots or putting HD blocks in those spots I cannot remember now...

Swing on out I'll give you some free tires for your future venture though...


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

I think the HD blocks are a different size. My local dealer did say something about there are 2 different size blocks for the bottom but you have to change the weldment they bolt to, or the heavier ones take longer bolts. There was something different on the heavier LD blocks so that they wouldn’t just bolt right on to every box.


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

This might be a good thread to bring @Aerospace Eng 's experience into. I've thought about spring steel to replace the blocks with but since we have next to no breakage I've never put much thought into it.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Yeah I think it is just a thicker LD sized block but you have to do them all along the bottom... When we do lose blocks I think I have lost more HD then LD not sure if it just the weight and pwr of the machine or not but...

I could see longer bolts for them for sure...


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

The thicker blocks should fit right on without longer bolts.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

LapeerLandscape said:


> View attachment 189791
> The thicker blocks should fit right on without longer bolts.


If you say so... I don't remember that much extra thread and that's at least a half inch thicker...


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## Masssnowfighter (Sep 22, 2012)

LapeerLandscape said:


> So I have been trying to think of a way to better the rubber block system on my sectional. Why couldnt I cut a piece of tire tread and drill holes in it. Tire has steel belts so I dont think it would break. I know how tuff tires are to cut and would probably have to cut it with a chop saw. Any other thoughts?


I was kicking around the idea of using LVL engineered wood beam for blocks. They are impossible to snap in half but I was thinking if you hit something hard enough they might shatter and save the plow and operator.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

LapeerLandscape said:


> View attachment 189791
> The thicker blocks should fit right on without longer bolts.


So you're having a durability or performance issue, not hard enough or too hard?
You can get different durometer urethane sheet stock and make your own. You would have to figure oot what the durometer of the OEM blocks are.


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## zlssefi (Dec 29, 2011)

whats the general consensus on these arctics? im on the fence between trying tougher rubber on my protechs or jumping in with both feet into a 16 arctic hd.....


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

Jump in with both feet and you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it years ago.


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## zlssefi (Dec 29, 2011)

thats the way my gut was leading me. my only hangup was the concern of breaking blocks, but sounds like with the limiters thats becoming a thing of the past.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

zlssefi said:


> thats the way my gut was leading me. my only hangup was the concern of breaking blocks, but sounds like with the limiters thats becoming a thing of the past.


Good operator helps too


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

zlssefi said:


> whats the general consensus on these arctics? im on the fence between trying tougher rubber on my protechs or jumping in with both feet into a 16 arctic hd.....


Whatever you do, leave the rubber edges behind. Arctic, MP, HLA, doesn't matter.

I hate that I depend on my folding ProTechs so much. I need to get rid of at least 1.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Mark Oomkes said:


> Whatever you do, leave the rubber edges behind. Arctic, MP, HLA, doesn't matter.
> 
> I hate that I depend on my folding ProTechs so much. I need to get rid of at least 1.


Yeah but those rubbers shine when it's wet concrete and you can squeegee that crap up nicely...


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

John_DeereGreen said:


> This might be a good thread to bring @Aerospace Eng 's experience into. I've thought about spring steel to replace the blocks with but since we have next to no breakage I've never put much thought into it.


This is a much more complex problem than it may seem, and I wouldn't just start trying things in place of the OEM blocks.

I haven't owned an Arctic, or even seen one in person. However, looking online at a few pictures, it seems to me that 4 monolithic polyurethane blocks are used on each section. They have the job of:
1. holding the section in place both vertically and laterally to some extent, 
2. transmitting the push force from the main frame to the section,
3. acting as shear sections if an obstacle is hit that won't trip the plow (basically everything taller than the trip edge), and
4. providing some returning "spring" force to the section if it does move up or down.

This is not a trivial engineering problem, particularly with polymers, which have stiffness and strengths that change with temperature, glass transition temperature issues to be aware of, strain rate dependencies, etc.

I have no idea what engineering Arctic put into their design and material selection, but simply cutting some pieces of tire and throwing them in there is not likely to lead to a better product. I can see where developing some sort of strap pack, with layered metallic and polymer elements, might be beneficial, but it is not likely to be inexpensive or a simple design. Perhaps solid metal arms to make it a 4-bar linkage with some designed in buckling load would work, but they wouldn't have any return spring force. That could be provided, but now the design is getting more complicated with parts, maintenance, etc.

From other threads, it sounds like the limiter straps have reduced the breakage problem. From what I understand, these basically function like bump stops on a suspension, and are probably a good idea regardless of what material is used for the blocks. And like bump stops, depending on your driving style you may never need them.

The fact that the limiter straps have reduced the breakage indicates that the blocks aren't breaking because of hitting an obstacle too high for the trip edge and acting as a shear section. Rather, it indicates that they are riding up higher than their design will accommodate. This would indicate that an obstacle is being hit that is sloped so that the trip edge functions but that as the main section lifts, the obstacle is too tall and pushes the block beyond its design limits (or the section starts riding up on snow or ice). I can see where this could occur either while driving or while stacking in an uneven pile (otherwise all the sections would just lift the plow at once), but have no operational experience to verify.

Because the blocks are polymers, this limit should be expected to change with temperature and speed at which the obstacle is hit. I would expect to have more block breaks in the middle of a polar vortex than when the temperatures are just below freezing.

Finally, to look at alternatives to OEM blocks, I would take an OEM block, and subject it to a variety of mechanical (hardness, stiffness, strength, all as a function of temperature) and chemical property (material makeup, what type and amount of fillers, etc.) tests, and then look at what I could buy on the open market. It's not likely to be cheaper.

Here's a link to data from just one manufacturer on one family of polyurethanes that they supply:

http://www.polyurethanes.basf.de/pu...omere/Infomaterial/elastollan_material_uk.pdf

If you want do design something that gets away from polymer blocks completely, then you need data on movement of sections and the loads and range of motion, among other things.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Aerospace Eng said:


> This is a much more complex problem than it may seem, and I wouldn't just start trying things in place of the OEM blocks.
> 
> I haven't owned an Arctic, or even seen one in person. However, looking online at a few pictures, it seems to me that 4 monolithic polyurethane blocks are used on each section. They have the job of:
> 1. holding the section in place both vertically and laterally to some extent,
> ...


Sure wish you would have thrown some math in there...Thumbs Up


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

I don’t believe this is rocket science or aerospace engineering were just talking about some rubber blocks we really don’t need to know the cemical to make up .
I bet somebody just poured some urethane into a mold,the same urethane we all can buy.

You can easily make molds and you could make your own blocks cheaply. Farmers/ranchers all the time .
 Farmers will make their own urethane parts especially for their corn heads.

I think the stack of cut up tires would probably work too.

Also if you’re by a ski hill or other industrial sites ski hills may have old Bull wheel liners which is urethane that’s going to be about 4” x 8” (they will come in 8-10 foot pices some will be longer you can cut it into chunks with
a saw. Or use cut up a solid tire like the ones on a fork lift?

After all it’s just blocks on a snowplow
Jmo
Sometimes a simple homemade fix will work great


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Aerospace Eng said:


> This is a much more complex problem than it may seem, and I wouldn't just start trying things in place of the OEM blocks.
> 
> I haven't owned an Arctic, or even seen one in person. However, looking online at a few pictures, it seems to me that 4 monolithic polyurethane blocks are used on each section. They have the job of:
> 1. holding the section in place both vertically and laterally to some extent,
> ...


I actually have one in the operation room but you can get a visual of how there are four blocks per panel to hold them...

The poly for sure has structural difference from used to new... When new ones are put on you can see the panel with the new ones more erect (not sure of better word go ahead and giggle) then the others when pushers is off the ground...


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Call fall-line .
https://www.fallline.com/

They may have a product you may use.
you may even be able to get some high-quality liquid urethane from them


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

For those that don't know what the "limiters" are. These are on an HD (wheel loader) box but the skid boxes are the same setup.

Without








With


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

John_DeereGreen said:


> For those that don't know what the "limiters" are. These are on an HD (wheel loader) box but the skid boxes are the same setup.
> 
> Without
> View attachment 189830
> ...


Looks like they would be easy enough to make. What is that about 1/2 inch gap between the stopper and the moldboard.


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

The limiters basically serve to limit the downward and rearward travel of each panel. My personal feeling after running Sectionals for several years is that most of the issue is downward force while stacking, or sudden hard impacts at higher speeds with immobile objects such as curbs, sign posts, etc. 

I’ll echo AJ’s statement that newer blocks seem to hold the panels more upright compared to older blocks, but the handful that we’ve changed I just assumed it to be putting new and unworn blocks in next to used and worn blocks.


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

LapeerLandscape said:


> Looks like they would be easy enough to make. What is that about 1/2 inch gap between the stopper and the moldboard.


I would say 1-1.5" but I'll measure when I get back to the shop.

You can buy them from Arctic and bolt them on also I think.


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

John_DeereGreen said:


> For those that don't know what the "limiters" are. These are on an HD (wheel loader) box but the skid boxes are the same setup.
> 
> Without
> View attachment 189830
> ...


Thanks, as I clearly didn't know exactly what they were.

Do they limit upward, downward, or fore/aft travel?

Fore/aft limiting the compression of the blocks, downward from hitting the back of the moldboard, or upward from hitting the angle on the back of the moldboard?

It would seem they would defeat the purpose of having the urethane blocks act as sacrificial shear members,


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

Hydromaster said:


> I don't believe this is rocket science or aerospace engineering were just talking about some rubber blocks we really don't need to know the cemical to make up .
> I bet somebody just poured some urethane into a mold,the same urethane we all can buy.
> 
> You can easily make molds and you could make your own blocks cheaply. Farmers/ranchers all the time .
> ...


Sometimes it will, and it isn't aerospace engineering or rocket science, but it is basic mechanical engineering and material selection.

As everybody that's ever been on a skateboard will tell you, not all urethanes are the same. A quick look at the attachment (page 6) would have informed you that the stiffness of urethanes can vary by over a factor of 1000 depending on their composition. If you get the wrong urethane, with a high glass transition temperature, it will become brittle at low temperatures (Page 9 and Page 15)

So, before I just threw something on there, found it didn't work, and then had to go through the labor of changing it out, I'd like to figure out what is there from the OEM. Chemical and mechanical tests would cost about $100 combined, and then you would have a basis for comparison.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

You do know people are capable of making their own parts , some even design and build their own machinery All without having a degree in engineering or doing structural analysis ,sometimes the engineering that is done in the backyard is just as good or better than OEM .that’s all

Anyway we’re not talking about a complex piece of machinery here Or buying a new prop off of Craigslist.
this is an older pusher where I think the OP can do a little experimention asI’m sure it’s way out of warranty . 
I think people are capable of Seeing what works and doesn’t work without being held captive by the OEM.


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

I know people are capable of making their own parts, and I have made (or have local shops make) parts for me. There are many great builds on here.

If the OP's question was about trying to get through a storm with cut tires, I'd say go for it. If it was about voiding the warranty, I'd ask "Who cares?"

However, the OP's original question was about making better blocks.

Because polymers have many non-intuitive properties, if you don't do some analysis or testing of the OEM design, you have no idea what you are trying to improve upon. You can just try some stuff, and by trial and error might get somewhere, but you might not.

I also recognize that OEM design's aren't necessarily perfect, but I'm also not somebody that thinks that ALL OEMs are out to screw customers, and that they are wrong about everything.

I'm certainly not going to say what would make a design better without having more information so that I can base my answers on rational thought. 

At any rate, I'm done with this aspect of the conversation, because I don't want to pull the thread off topic further than it has gotten.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Aerospace Eng said:


> but I'm also not somebody that thinks that ALL OEMs are out to screw customers, and that they are wrong about everything.


I thought that belief was part of the American Heritage. Isn't it in the Constitution? Or perhaps it was the Declaration of Independence.


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

Aerospace Eng said:


> Thanks, as I clearly didn't know exactly what they were.
> 
> Do they limit upward, downward, or fore/aft travel?
> 
> ...


Rearward and downward beyond a certain range of travel. Here's the spacing from the back side of the panel to the front of the limiter's rubber bump stop. Just under 2". This is on an LD (skid steer/backhoe/mini loader) box. I assume the HD is the same but it's raining and I don't feel like getting soaked to measure it.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Aerospace Eng said:


> I know people are capable of making their own parts, and I have made (or have local shops make) parts for me. There are many great builds on here.
> 
> If the OP's question was about trying to get through a storm with cut tires, I'd say go for it. If it was about voiding the warranty, I'd ask "Who cares?"
> 
> ...


I think my original thoughts are 2 fold. The first being these blocks are $60. each and usually go through 6 to 10 a year. The second being I like to experiment or repurpose things that I have on hand instead of costing me money (Henry Ford did it best).
I think that a tire has about the same stiffness or flexability to it and with the steel belts inside the rubber it is not going to break. The down fall to this is cutting them probably with a chop saw is very messy and it stinks and drilling 4 holes in it with the wire in it is not easy. I have cut tires and drilled holes in them and its not something to look forward to.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

It's been right under our nose! Flexseal!


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

John_DeereGreen said:


> Rearward and downward beyond a certain range of travel. Here's the spacing from the back side of the panel to the front of the limiter's rubber bump stop. Just under 2". This is on an LD (skid steer/backhoe/mini loader) box. I assume the HD is the same but it's raining and I don't feel like getting soaked to measure it.
> 
> View attachment 189835


Is that tape measure made by Jitty Bug...….


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## Luther (Oct 31, 2007)

The two LD's we bought before this winter have the limiters, our others do not.

Looking forward to finally breaking a darn block so we can be part of the in crowd.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Aerospace Eng said:


> Sometimes it will, and it isn't aerospace engineering or rocket science, but it is basic mechanical engineering and material selection.
> 
> As everybody that's ever been on a skateboard will tell you, not all urethanes are the same. A quick look at the attachment (page 6) would have informed you that the stiffness of urethanes can vary by over a factor of 1000 depending on their composition. If you get the wrong urethane, with a high glass transition temperature, it will become brittle at low temperatures (Page 9 and Page 15)
> 
> So, before I just threw something on there, found it didn't work, and then had to go through the labor of changing it out, I'd like to figure out what is there from the OEM. Chemical and mechanical tests would cost about $100 combined, and then you would have a basis for comparison.


A little fun fact aboot polyurethane...… Though it can have great chemical resistance "DEET" (bug spray) attacks the resin and makes it gummy. I found this oot when suggesting a resin for a rifle stock to a customer south the snow line.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Luther said:


> The two LD's we bought before this winter have the limiters, our others do not.
> 
> Looking forward to finally breaking a darn block so we can be part of the in crowd.


I dont want to hear it.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Ajlawn1 said:


> It's been right under our nose! Flexseal!
> 
> View attachment 189836
> 
> ...


No just cut some small cables, like they use on a bicycles for shifting and brakes .
Add them in the rubber , better than OEM

How couldn't it be.



what is it going to hurt, a couple chunks of engineered tire installed on a couple sections or do the whole pusher. 
then go out and push some piles grab some snow and go find a curb.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Luther said:


> Looking forward to finally breaking a darn block so we can be part of the in crowd.


Well if you want to be part of the crowd you know who you need to put behind the joystick's...


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

It looks like the primary fastening is the two through bolts on either end of the block.

What are the molded in things that look like smaller threaded studs for? There might be 6? Or I might not be looking at it correctly.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Hydromaster said:


> No just cut some small cables, like they use on a bicycles for shifting and brakes .
> Add them in the rubber , better than OEM
> 
> How couldn't it be.
> ...


Like I said I have cut and drilled tires before and its going to take more of a pep talk than that to get me going.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Aerospace Eng said:


> It looks like the primary fastening is the two through bolts on either end of the block.
> 
> What are the molded in things that look like smaller threaded studs for? There might be 6? Or I might not be looking at it correctly.


You must be looking at the dimples in the rubber on each side of the bolt holes. I think they just help grip the rubber.


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## Luther (Oct 31, 2007)

Ajlawn1 said:


> Well if you want to be part of the crowd you know who you need to put behind the joystick's...


I'm not putting him behind any of the Arctic's...he does enough damage using his truck. He thinks it's funny going through a set of cutting edges on his belly blade with each push. He likes to pop wheelies in his Sterling going down the road while plowing. He's costing me a fortune in cutting edges.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Luther said:


> I'm not putting him behind any of the Arctic's...he does enough damage using his truck. He thinks it's funny going through a set of cutting edges on his belly blade with each push. He likes to pop wheelies in his Sterling going down the road while plowing. He's costing me a fortune in cutting edges.


Maybe you should pony up for the good edges...you bought the high dollar pushers.


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## Luther (Oct 31, 2007)

I am somewhat considering the solid carbide cutting edges. I might need aerospace to do a little math for me to see which is the best value.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Luther said:


> I'm not putting him behind any of the Arctic's...he does enough damage using his truck. He thinks it's funny going through a set of cutting edges on his belly blade with each push. He likes to pop wheelies in his Sterling going down the road while plowing. He's costing me a fortune in cutting edges.


I use my belly blade very little in the winter, sometimes doing the roadways around meijer. I do use it in the summer for leveling/grading some gravel drives and private roads. I'm still on the same cutting edge from when I bought the truck 6 or 7 years ago.


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## Masssnowfighter (Sep 22, 2012)

Luther said:


> I am somewhat considering the solid carbide cutting edges. I might need aerospace to do a little math for me to see which is the best value.


I just bought a 9' fisher carbide edge, paid $900. Standard edge is less then $200. General rule of thumb is carbides out last standard edges x3. So basically paying a $300 premium to not have to change edges so frequently. I'm hoping they last longer then just 3x.


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## Luther (Oct 31, 2007)

3x’s eh? That’s not great. If this is true, I will continue buying the cheap cutting-edges. If he can get two pushes out of each set that would be good. Far better value.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Luther said:


> 3x's eh? That's not great. If this is true, I will continue buying the cheap cutting-edges. If he can get two pushes out of each set that would be good. Far better value.


You must be doing a lot of scraping with that blade.


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## Defcon 5 (Mar 20, 2014)

LapeerLandscape said:


> You must be doing a lot of scraping with that blade.


Miles and miles....He can't grasp the concept that they work on down pressure...Even the minimum amount of pressure to have the blade touching the ground is still pressure.....It also doesn't help that the edges are being purchased from the bargain bin at Harbor Freight


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Luther said:


> 3x's eh? That's not great. If this is true, I will continue buying the cheap cutting-edges. If he can get two pushes out of each set that would be good. Far better value.


What about labor costs to change them oot?


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Defcon 5 said:


> Miles and miles....He can't grasp the concept that they work on down pressure...Even the minimum amount of pressure to have the blade touching the ground is still pressure.....It also doesn't help that the edges are being purchased from the bargain bin at Harbor Freight


They sure do work good and throw the snow dont they.


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

2 bolts on each side hold the block to the frame and panel. There is a piece of flat-ish metal that spreads the force out across a larger area of said bolt. 

I had custom made carbide edges made for about half of my sectionals this year. A touch over double the cost of OEM but with the hours we’ve plowed on some already there is virtually no wear and OEM would be half gone by now.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Defcon 5 said:


> Miles and miles....He can't grasp the concept that they work on down pressure...Even the minimum amount of pressure to have the blade touching the ground is still pressure.....It also doesn't help that the edges are being purchased from the bargain bin at Harbor Freight


Kind it like spiners for a TGS, if you have a meh for an operator you'll have issue.....


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

For those that have problems, is there a pattern as to which blocks tend to break (upper/lower)?


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## Masssnowfighter (Sep 22, 2012)

Aerospace Eng said:


> For those that have problems, is there a pattern as to which blocks tend to break (upper/lower)?


Lowers


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

What are the block dimensions and bolt hole spacing?

Thickness of skidsteer and heavy duty blocks?


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

Anyone have a used block (if not, broken could be made to work) they would be willing to send me?

I’ll pay shipping


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## John_DeereGreen (Jan 2, 2011)

I’ve got at least a skid steer. Think I have a skid and a loader one both that are broken. I’ll get dimensions tomorrow when I get home/back to the shop.

I know I have good ones of both sizes, if it’ll help the masses out I’ll send you a good HD and a good LD both.


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## Dustin D (Nov 18, 2021)

LapeerLandscape said:


> So I have been trying to think of a way to better the rubber block system on my sectional. Why couldnt I cut a piece of tire tread and drill holes in it. Tire has steel belts so I dont think it would break. I know how tuff tires are to cut and would probably have to cut it with a chop saw. Any other thoughts?


Hey guys, I've been having the same problem so I started manufacturing blocks and now I sell them on FB, ebay, amazon and walk in. Its mining belt between steel plates. They have been tested and they work great and are virtually indestructible. Cutting and drilling this material is next to impossible so these are waterjet cut for precision. They are $52 plus tax and shipping if you contact me directly. I have a website www.123bobcat.com


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## zlssefi (Dec 29, 2011)

this could be a game changer. 23 bucks less than an arctic block. how well does it hold the panels? Do you have any video of a sectional working with all of these installed??


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## m_ice (Aug 12, 2012)

I've noticed these on fb too


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## Dustin D (Nov 18, 2021)

I do have videos on my website. www.123bobcat.com/about-3 It shows them holding the panels. And yes. these are everything you expect them to be. Ive sold more than 1000 units and Im stepping up production. Poly blocks are a problem. Its amazing marketing wank from Arctic to blame the operator for their parts being soft. I've been plowing for 20 years so I understand the importance of good equipment. It would be great if you could help spread the word about these blocks if you like them.


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## Dustin D (Nov 18, 2021)

m_ice said:


> I've noticed these on fb too


yeah, those are mine. :usflag:lowred:


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Dustin D said:


> I do have videos on my website. www.123bobcat.com/about-3 It shows them holding the panels. And yes. these are everything you expect them to be. Ive sold more than 1000 units and Im stepping up production. Poly blocks are a problem. Its amazing marketing wank from Arctic to blame the operator for their parts being soft. I've been plowing for 20 years so I understand the importance of good equipment. It would be great if you could help spread the word about these blocks if you like them.


Not sure what the video pushing against the garage lip is supposed to be showing... Nothing with the weight of snow and how they stack?

Also something showing how they would actually scrape on a lot with snow... Pitching the panels forward to see if the edges still scrape like they should... Sparks!


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## Dustin D (Nov 18, 2021)

Pushing against the garage lip activating the trip edge with no movement in the panel is the best I can do with no snow. The edge is fully tripped in all the sections and the performance is the same in all sections. One full section has all my blocks on them so I can say with confidence the blocks wont buckle under the weight of snow anymore than gooey poly blocks. They are much stiffer. It is indeed a concern and I get where you're coming from. The design uses the metal plates already on the blade combined with the metal plates on the new block to sandwich layers of rubber between steel. There is about 1.5" of uncovered rubber to allow some flexibility but keeping it strong.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Pushing straight against the panel isn't the problem no matter what style of block is there...

The problem lies when folks stack and don't roll back the box so they are pushing straight against the blocks and instead let them flex downward...

I just would like to see them working across the board on a box and if they are stiff enough to really cut when panels are pitched forward. And also how they hold up if you do stack and just let them get yanked down...

So you have 1000 in the field but no end user feedback? Have they been out long enough for anyone to use in snow yet? Hey, if they do everything a poly block does you will have something for sure.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Ajlawn1 said:


> Pushing straight against the panel isn't the problem no matter what style of block is there...
> 
> The problem lies when folks stack and don't roll back the box so they are pushing straight against the blocks and instead let them flex downward...
> 
> ...


I would like to see them working in snow to but from what I've seen in the video I would say they are going to last longer much than the old blocks.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Dustin D said:


> Pushing against the garage lip activating the trip edge with no movement in the panel is the best I can do with no snow. The edge is fully tripped in all the sections and the performance is the same in all sections. One full section has all my blocks on them so I can say with confidence the blocks wont buckle under the weight of snow anymore than gooey poly blocks. They are much stiffer. It is indeed a concern and I get where you're coming from. The design uses the metal plates already on the blade combined with the metal plates on the new block to sandwich layers of rubber between steel. There is about 1.5" of uncovered rubber to allow some flexibility but keeping it strong.


In all the testing you've done have you broke any. They look flexible and strong to me.


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## Dustin D (Nov 18, 2021)

Ive been plowing commercialy for 20 years. Its serious business for sure, bad equipment is unacceptable. --- I have positive feedback on installs and quality. You're right., the real feedback comes at the end of the season. I did send 20 blocks to Juneau Alaska and they ordered 40 more so I assume they are using them and they like them.. I will get onsite video and feedback when it finally snows here. Im using them on my blade as well and will get video. This is the first real season for them and snow has been a bit scarce here in Chicago. These hold up for stacking no matter how you push into the pile, because they dont break. The guys that run sectionals are highly skilled, highly trained and its a miracle of marketing by Arctic to get them to take the blame for breaking parts that were not strong enough to begin with. It sort or irritates me. I cant break my blocks them with the equipment that I have. I have been working on this problem for a few years. I did mid season hacks that held up excellently. This is a refined version of those hacks along with attempts at pouring molds and embedding chains and cables and kevlar and anything else I could think of. It was a problem that needed to be solved. These worked by far the best. Im not a salesmen, Im a snowplower. The picture is my equipment and my crew and my credentials.


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