# Undercoating dilemma



## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

Ok so I'm installing a flatbed on my 250 and a lot of the undercoating on the frames still intack just coated in dust and theirs a bunch of rusty spots on the springs and frame where things bolted up or the undercoating wore away. Should I rust converter these spots and then re under coat the whole thing or what? I know I cant paint over the undercoating and the thought of removing it makes me want to shot my self so I'm alittle unsure what to do.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

The only way anything will last for a real long time is to sandblast the frame. I don't think you want to do that. I would rustoleum the bare/rusty spots, and cover the works in Fluid Film.


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

Idk what to do I want it to look nice because its all going to be hanging out in the open cause the new bed


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## Clint S (Feb 12, 2008)

You could POR 15 it and then undercoat over that or just POR 15 it. They say the stuff fades in direct sunlight, but I painted a few things around the farm and although it dulled up some it still looked fairly good.


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

Clint S;855407 said:


> You could POR 15 it and then undercoat over that or just POR 15 it. They say the stuff fades in direct sunlight, but I painted a few things around the farm and although it dulled up some it still looked fairly good.


I dont think it will stick to the undercoat. What do you guys think about using rust converter then more undercoat so its all the same? I can undercoat over rust can I? cause it will just rust undertone it ?


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## secret_weapon (Jan 24, 2007)

My recommendation is don't use the rubberized undercoating. It will dry, flake off and moisture will get under it and you won't see the rust holes. I like the idea of rust converter and then paint with rustoleum, but after that spay the s*** out of it with FF. If you can find the OE undercoating it will be a wax type and stay soft. Such as Rus-Fre(sp?) from a body shop paint supply.


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

secret_weapon;855589 said:


> My recommendation is don't use the rubberized undercoating. It will dry, flake off and moisture will get under it and you won't see the rust holes. I like the idea of rust converter and then paint with rustoleum, but after that spay the s*** out of it with FF. If you can find the OE undercoating it will be a wax type and stay soft. Such as Rus-Fre(sp?) from a body shop paint supply.


Thats exactly what it is its like a greasy tar film it sucks to try to remove. I will try to find some oil based stuff tommrow


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

I found the stock style undercoating its an Asphalt based stuff. I bougt Napa 4514. Its not rubberized so I will see how it works out.


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

I've had pretty good results with the POR 15 system. It comes with the marine clean and metal ready spray which neutralizes the rust before coating with the product. Requires a little patience but the results are worth it.


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

The axles and springs I did in black rustolem and I'm going to undercoat the bed onces its been installed.

problem solved


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## secret_weapon (Jan 24, 2007)

sounds good! Then do a once or twice a year spray with Fluid Film or used motor oil to makes sure things stay coated. The asphalt coating is good, but will dry out and flake off if not sprayed with oil or FF. my .02 I know this from my own experience.


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## 02powerstroke (Nov 7, 2006)

that was my plan to use oil/grease and spray the whole underside bumper to bumper down when I'm finished.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

I would just have used rust doctor on everything It would look nice and black and u would not have to worry about it again! I use it on all the plow frames I need another gallon to do my truck. .


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