# Leaf spring frame mount rivets



## reallyrusty (Mar 18, 2001)

Has anybody replaced the leaf spring frame mounts on their C/K.
I know they are factory riveted and you can get replacements from LMC but how do put them on? Can you use bolts instead?
Anyone have any experience with this?


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## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

I used grade 8 bolts on mine with no problem, just monitor the bolts for rust.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Like Pelican said,Grade 8 bolts and locking nuts.Don't use the cheap plastic insert nuts,they may come loose.You will have to drill the holes out,and ream them to the right size,as they are not the right size for bolts.Make sure the holes are reamed out clean,or the sharp edges will shear the new bolts off.


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## Rick Loncosky (Dec 14, 2002)

Replacing the hangers isn't to big of a problem if you have a torch. I just replaced the rear ones on my K10 model. I'm also restoring a K20 that I used a chisel to remove the cab mounts. It took a little longer:realmad: but I wanted to see if you could do it in a reasonable time. A sharp chisel & a BFH is about 1 minute a rivet. A hot torch you can get 3 to 5 in a minute. You'll have to enlarge the holes to 7/16 cause the rivets are slightly smaller than that. Like the other guys said use grade 8 bolts & nuts. I personally used lock washers with nuts. Use an air gun too for tightening, much quicker . Good Luck to You!


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

I wouldn't use lock washers.They can sometimes break,or squeeze out,and then the bolt comes loose.Use a grade 8 all metal lock nut.If you really wan't to use a lock washer,get the convex type they use for trailer hitch fasteners.


NEVER use an impact gun for tightening them.The average 1/2" drive impact gun will put out way more torque than that bolt needs,and may damage it.

7/16 should be the size (you will have to drill them out most likely),use fine thread (20 TPI) and you should torque them to 80 Ft\Lbs MAX.You can see even a weak impact gun which puts out 250 Ft\Lbs would be way to tight.An overtightened bolt is just as dangerous as a loose one.


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## 1977/85scottspecial (Jul 19, 2003)

*would these work?*

Will these work?

Part Number 92620A699 $8.70 per Pack of 25

Material: Alloy Steel

Material Type:
Grade 8 Zinc and Yellow Chromate-Plated Alloy Steel

Head Style: Standard Hex

System of Measurement: Inch

Thread Size: 7/16"-20

Length: 1-1/2"

Thread Style: Standard Right Handed

Thread Length: Fully Threaded

Specifications Met: SAE J429


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Those bolts should work fine.You want locknuts that look like this.


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## reallyrusty (Mar 18, 2001)

Thanks everyone!!
Grade 8 bolts and nuts it shall be!!!


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## whwright (Jul 16, 2003)

Hey Wyldman. Educate me a little more.

I see bolts that look like those on my cars (and now a truck too!) all the time. It never even occurred to me that they are locknuts. I usually put the nuts right back where I took them off. Just recently I noticed them holding on the power brake booster.

1. How do they work?

2. Will they work more than once?

3. What did you mean by "cheap plastic inserts" on an earlier post? (I'm visualizing the axle nuts I've seen on my kid's bikes -- am I close?)

Thanks.

Wayne.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

1 - they have little punch marks which crimp the threads down to make the nut difficult to turn.

2 - they can be reused,and will last a long time.When they wear out they are easier to turn.

3 - the cheap platic insert types are used on bikes and other light duty stuff.You see them a lot on lawnmower wheels too.They do loosen up over time,and are pretty much single use only.


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