# 2002 Fisher Minute Mount Inst-Act Wont Angle



## CallBob

My plow went up it was jerking and did it in steps , but , it got there . Now , it only jerks when i try to angle it right or left or up . I filled the fluid reservoir . It is a new motor and relay . I am getting a magnetic pull on the white wire solenoid . 
Hoses are in the proper location . Isolation Module has all four plugs inserted properly and ground is alright . 
Motor is working fine and it's a new controller in the cab . All i am getting is the jerking motion no matter what direction i attempt to move the blade .
Do you think i need to pull all the coils and solenoid valves at the motor ? 3 of them are there . It has a quart and 1/2 of new transmission red fluid ....The motor relay is also new .
It went up jerking and now i don't want to drop it in case it wont go up again . I don't seem to get readings when i try to measure voltage at the solenoid , maybe I'm doing it wrong ...black at ground and live to the colored wire on the solenoid ..
Thanks
Bob


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## 06Sierra

What was in it for fluid before you filled it? Fisher fluid or ATF? When was the last time the filter was changed?


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## no lead

try a different controller.


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## CallBob

*Reply*

B 4 the fluid was Trans. ATF ... red stuff . and the controllers cost $ 335.00 each so i think the brand new one i have is the one i will stick with and not try another . Filter is a breather that is clean .


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## 06Sierra

The filter is inside the reservoir.


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## LON

Looking at the filter would be what I'd do. If it is clean then I'd suspect the pump


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## CallBob

LON;1350424 said:


> Looking at the filter would be what I'd do. If it is clean then I'd suspect the pump


 Okay ..right now i have the coils and valves inside soaking in acetone for a few minutes ...later when the snow stops , i will empty the reservoir and check on the filter ..
Thanks


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## mayhem

> I am getting a magnetic pull on the white wire solenoid .


Aren't you supposed to get a megnetic pull on all 3 solenoids, depending on what direction you're trying to use? One per ram, right?

Does it make any noise when you try to angle it or is it just dead?



> It went up jerking and now i don't want to drop it in case it wont go up again


Drop it and if it doesn't raise you can just use a jack and shorten the transport chain to hold it.

Mine did this and I had a cracked wire inside my truckside directional controller plug. Found it by angling the plow while I jiggled the wires, then went to the wiring and troubleshooting diagrams.


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## CallBob

mayhem;1350650 said:


> Aren't you supposed to get a megnetic pull on all 3 solenoids, depending on what direction you're trying to use? One per ram, right?
> 
> Does it make any noise when you try to angle it or is it just dead?
> 
> Drop it and if it doesn't raise you can just use a jack and shorten the transport chain to hold it.
> 
> Mine did this and I had a cracked wire inside my truckside directional controller plug. Found it by angling the plow while I jiggled the wires, then went to the wiring and troubleshooting diagrams.


 Yes on the magnetic pull , but i was only getting it on the white wired one ..not the blue or green . I just cleaned up the coils and valves and re-installed them all and the stupid thing is still just doing the try to right angle on any selected direction of the controller . It's making all kinds of noise with the plow motor running and the blade trying to move and just stopping with a bang , it's jerking but not going anyplace .
I have to wait for partner to get home to re-check for magnetic pull now . I'll top of the fluid and see what happens with the coils around 8 pm tonight when help gets home .


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## no lead

Please try a different controller.


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## no lead

trust me...........


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## CallBob

About the controller . I still have the original controller and i have the new one i paid $333.00 for . The 1st one continues to run when i release it and the brand new one works perfectly . I don't have another $333.00 to go out and buy another one just to " try " it .


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## no lead

if the brand new one works perfectly why are you looking for advice?


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## CallBob

no lead;1351604 said:


> if the brand new one works perfectly why are you looking for advice?


 Because something else is causing a problem and it as of yet to be determined just what that item is . It appears that it may be the filter .


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## no lead

not trying to be a jerk here bob. any fisher or western dealer will let you try a different control to remove any doubt weather it is good or not. 

its not the pump, not the filter, or the valves. i have seen this a hundred times. its your money. i have had bad controllers right out of the box. maybe your brand new one is defective and may carry a warranty. just a thought.


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## nick4634

I just fixed this same problem I was having today. The plow would sound like it was try to angle but wouldn't while it was on the ground, when angled all the way to the left and coming back to the right it would stop and bang and if I hit the button again it would go the other way, and when trying to raise the plow I had to hit the button a couple times. Guess what the problem was... faulty controller. put a different controller on and all the problems went away.


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## CallBob

no lead;1352116 said:


> not trying to be a jerk here bob. any fisher or western dealer will let you try a different control to remove any doubt weather it is good or not.
> 
> its not the pump, not the filter, or the valves. i have seen this a hundred times. its your money. i have had bad controllers right out of the box. maybe your brand new one is defective and may carry a warranty. just a thought.


 It came off eBay in a new box and paperwork with a metal mount . The truck is off road and so i would need to take the controller to a dealer ( 55 miles away ) to get it tested .


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## cubicinches

CallBob;1351397 said:


> About the controller . I still have the original controller and i have the new one i paid $333.00 for . The 1st one continues to run when i release it and the brand new one works perfectly . I don't have another $333.00 to go out and buy another one just to " try " it .


I guess I don't understand. If the plow works perfectly with one controller, but not with the other, how can the issue be related to the pump, motor, valves, etc.?


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## CallBob

Because the controller makes the plow react as if it is going to do what i want it to ...but..never gets the action completed .


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## no lead

i should have asked this up front, handheld i asume, not a joystick?


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## CallBob

no lead;1352378 said:


> i should have asked this up front, handheld i asume, not a joystick?


 Nope , it's the old style joystick on Insta-Act hydraulics .


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## mayhem

CallBob;1350666 said:


> Yes on the magnetic pull , but i was only getting it on the white wired one ..not the blue or green . I just cleaned up the coils and valves and re-installed them all and the stupid thing is still just doing the try to right angle on any selected direction of the controller . It's making all kinds of noise with the plow motor running and the blade trying to move and just stopping with a bang , it's jerking but not going anyplace .
> I have to wait for partner to get home to re-check for magnetic pull now . I'll top of the fluid and see what happens with the coils around 8 pm tonight when help gets home .


Sounds like exactly what I had to deal with a couple years ago. Check it out, might help.

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=58937

Also go get the mechanic's service guide and go through the troubleshooting steps. The S3 cartridge on your plow isn't firing properly...you need to find out if its bad or if its not getting a signal to fire. In my case it was a bad wire.

http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/27179_070001.pdf


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## CallBob

mayhem;1352836 said:


> Sounds like exactly what I had to deal with a couple years ago. Check it out, might help.
> 
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=58937
> 
> Also go get the mechanic's service guide and go through the troubleshooting steps. The S3 cartridge on your plow isn't firing properly...you need to find out if its bad or if its not getting a signal to fire. In my case it was a bad wire.
> 
> http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/27179_070001.pdf


 Strange , i know that the # 1 is getting juice because it magnetizes , but , it wont make the plow react in any way other than a jerking motion . I don't think 2 an 3 are magnetizing but i need to recheck with a steel tool , then i know if it is or isn't . The screwdriver is not reacting with a good pull on 2 or 3 . Until i get help , i will try putting the S1 on the S3 and see if it makes a difference .


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## CallBob

*Finally ?*

Alright , putting the #1 (lower) on the #3 (raise) didn't do anything , even though it does have power when i hit lower . I found out that i need to change screwdrivers as i test the coils for magnetism because they get magnetized and pull without doing anything .
#2 and #3 are not magnetizing . I pulled there live wires and probed for voltage and ground at the battery . NOTHING is getting to them . 
I probed the 3 pin harness at the truck side and found that only one of the 3 pins is getting 12 volts at the down action of the controller ..the other 2 do not get anything to them no matter what i do at the controller . 
The troubleshooting part of the manual does not seem to cover this situation , so what would y'all suggest i do next ? New Harness ?? payup

Bob


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## no lead

looks like you are on your own.


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## 06Sierra

I would test those two wires a few inches back from the grill plug and where it plugs into the iso. If you have power behind the plug, it is the plug that is bad. If you don't have power there but you do at the iso, the wires are probably bad somewhere in between.


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## mayhem

You say you have 2 controllers, what about no lead's advice to try the other one? What happens when you do the same voltage test and swap controllers? Try calling your dealer and just ask if you can bring both of yours in to test it out on a known good setup they have there...it shouldn't be a big deal. If you have two bad controllers maybe they have a used one you could pick up cheap or you could EBay it.

The thing to do here is to be thorough and eliminate as many things as possible. Take it all one step and one area at a time and don't jump around or make assumptions about anything being good just because its new or you "know" its good. 

Move the one working hot lead from the working coil to the other 2 and hit the controller and see if they each energize. If all 3 coils are proven good you can put the plowside back together and get it all sealed up again and focus on the wires under the hood.

Do a continuity test on the plowside 3 pin harness to each of the 3 coil hot wires to confirm beyond any doubt that the harness and all 3 wires there are good.

Do a continuity test on the truckside 3 pin harness between the ISO module and the grill.

It sounds to me like you've either got a bad controller or a wiring problem in that truckside harness.

The mechanics guide has testing procedures for pretty much everything, you just have to read it and dig...do the controller test on p41 on both controllers and confirm beyond all doubt that at least one is known good.

This is all fixable, just have to be careful and deliberate about it and eliminate possibilities one at a time.


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## CallBob

" Alright , putting the #1 (lower) on the #3 (raise) didn't do anything , even though it does have power when i hit lower "


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## mayhem

The important thig is that coils actually magnetize. I think the #1 is the only one that works alone, but I'm not positive of that.

You gotta just keep following the parts and verify each bit works one at a time.

What about the controller test?


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## CallBob

mayhem;1354204 said:


> The important thig is that coils actually magnetize. I think the #1 is the only one that works alone, but I'm not positive of that.
> 
> You gotta just keep following the parts and verify each bit works one at a time.
> 
> What about the controller test?


 I do have continuity on the plow side for all 3 wires going to the plug . I do have continuity going from the truck side plug to under the dash at the controller connection .
Is this where the power comes from to all 3 wires ?

Bye the way , the new relay does not look the same as the old relay . On this new one , nothing is labeled as to what wires go where ! The old one had the 2 primary wires (smaller) set below the big ones and was easy to see where the wires belonged . I can't get info on this new one . Is it the wrong Motor Relay ? I attached a pic.


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## CallBob

I do not own a minute mount electrical tester to check the cab control .


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## no lead

........


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## CallBob

*Maybe ?*

Took the new controller down to a dealer in Albany New York and they say it tests good , working 100 % . I just checked again and have no juice coming down the #2 and #3 solenoid wires . Since the continuity is good in these wires and now we know that the controller is 100% ...that means the truckside harness connection is at fault and i can finally fix my stupid plow !


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## CallBob

*Sob*

SOB:realmad:


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## mayhem

I'm a little suspicous of the underhood relay you posted pics of. It looks nothing like the one on my MM1 setup and you said you're not sure if you hooked it up right or not.

I see a new thread from you asking about the ISO module, so whats changed?

When you say you have no juice on the #2 and #3 solenoid wires, where do you mean? Where did you test it?


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## CallBob

mayhem;1359917 said:


> I'm a little suspicous of the underhood relay you posted pics of. It looks nothing like the one on my MM1 setup and you said you're not sure if you hooked it up right or not.
> 
> I see a new thread from you asking about the ISO module, so whats changed?
> 
> When you say you have no juice on the #2 and #3 solenoid wires, where do you mean? Where did you test it?


 I ordered new -old stock relay off eBay that looks like my original one , hope it gets here soon so i can change it ...No juice measured at the coil wires around the valves of the solenoids .


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## cubicinches

The relay you have is correct, just a different style. All DD plows have used that style relay for the last 3 or 4 years. Looking at your pic, it is wired correctly as well. The relay is for the motor anyway, it has no control over power to the coils.


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## CallBob

*The Saga Continues*

I just replaced the Isolation module and a new - old stock - correct motor relay and guess what . No change in the actions of the plow at all . It still wont do any of the requested actions . There's nothing left to replace on it now that i can think of . Going in to a non fisher repair shop on wed ..Nov 30th 2011 .


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## cubicinches

CallBob;1360258 said:


> I just replaced the Isolation module and a new - old stock - correct motor relay and guess what . No change in the actions of the plow at all .


Say it ain't so...


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## dieselss

Just wondering, did you try and "hotwire" the plow to just make sure that the plow itself works? Couple of jumper wires and a set of jumper cables? When your checking the power to the coils, where are you checking for power, where do you have your test light ground?


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## CallBob

dieselss;1361078 said:


> Just wondering, did you try and "hotwire" the plow to just make sure that the plow itself works? Couple of jumper wires and a set of jumper cables? When your checking the power to the coils, where are you checking for power, where do you have your test light ground?


 Test ground for the Multimeter is at the negative battery terminal and the lose coil power clip on at the coils .
I can't picture a test for the plow in my head that would hotwire it . Sure would be nice to actually see it move :laughing:


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## dieselss

well what i was meaning was,,,kinda step back and see what works and what doesnt. see if you can get the plow to work, then move to the other problem. electrical and wiring can do wierd things for no reason. you did say it worked a while ago, now nothing. so try and take the truck side out of it. ground the plow motor, pos. to the up coil then batt. jumper cable to positive on truck and plow motor. see what happens? if all functions work, then move onto the truck side. just my 2cents in all this. when you are checking for power from the controller, where did you check this at? and if you have a test light, i would try that instead of a meter, meters can give fause readings.


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## CallBob

dieselss;1361172 said:


> well what i was meaning was,,,kinda step back and see what works and what doesnt. see if you can get the plow to work, then move to the other problem. electrical and wiring can do wierd things for no reason. you did say it worked a while ago, now nothing. so try and take the truck side out of it. ground the plow motor, pos. to the up coil then batt. jumper cable to positive on truck and plow motor. see what happens? if all functions work, then move onto the truck side. just my 2cents in all this. when you are checking for power from the controller, where did you check this at? and if you have a test light, i would try that instead of a meter, meters can give fause readings.


 Hi again..The meter is a expensive digital that reads the slightest voltage . The plow motor is working fine in all situations , so that's not a problem for me . I just spent about an hour testing all the electrical ends for proper voltage and have discovered that the blue wire (#3 coil) is not getting the proper voltage to it , not even 1 volt is getting to it . Tested at the plow connection and at the coil connection . Now.....tracking backwards on that wire , I'm not sure but i assume that it is running to the #1 on the isolation module ..i have had both isolation modules on and get the same result with both .
Do i dare use a jumper from the + side of the battery to the coil connection at #3 ?? Little worried about the amps frying the wire 
Nope....it runs to the control in the cab and then i see a red/yellow going to the isolation module ....


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## dieselss

Ok I understand what you are saying about the meter, BUT a meter will not tell you if you have voltage under load. I.e if you check for power at lets say a simple light buld circuit, with no load the meter will say that you have 12v. so you think you have v are you move on. but if you meter and test light that same circuit, the test light acts as a load and the true readings will come out. Now as far as looking at the schematic, if you test light the plow controller (not meter), you should have pwr at the lt.blu...lt. grn....and the wht/ylw. Thats where you need to start. make sure you have pwr coming out of the controller when you use the functions. If you do,,then move down the line, I hate to do this but trace the wires, and pierce them to see if you still have pwr. But make sure you properly insulate them after you pierce the wire. Hope this helps


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## no lead

as much as i hate to jump in again, unplug the 9 pin plug. angle left and right. does the motor run? if no, you have a harness problem. if the motor does run, jump a wire from the positive stud from the motor to the light blue or green wire positive on the coil. does the plow angle now?


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## CallBob

no lead;1361923 said:


> as much as i hate to jump in again, unplug the 9 pin plug. angle left and right. does the motor run? if no, you have a harness problem. if the motor does run, jump a wire from the positive stud from the motor to the light blue or green wire positive on the coil. does the plow angle now?


 Come on in , the waters fine .....I have a 2 pin , 3 pin and an 11 pin . The 11 is for lighting , the 2 is for battery ... could you mean the 3 pin ?


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## samjr

*yes 3 pin*



CallBob;1362720 said:


> Come on in , the waters fine .....I have a 2 pin , 3 pin and an 11 pin . The 11 is for lighting , the 2 is for battery ... could you mean the 3 pin ?


Now i thought with fisher the plow well go up with the 11 pin for lighting. just try to unplug the 3 pin and try to go up.I know my EZ-V well i just did it the otherday


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## CallBob

Left the engine running and tried removing the blue ( up/left ) wire and putting on a jumper from the motor + to it ... Made no difference in anything , the motor runs and the blade tries to move but doesn't .Same thing with the green ( angles ) wire ..this is with the 3 pin plugged and not plugged .
Started pulling hoses and got good flow from the angle outlets when motor is engaged , but , just getting blurps when the up cylinder hose is removed from the cylinder . Jacked up the blade and am able to move the blade R/L alright by hand . Can pull the raise one up and down . Reservoir has fluid .
All of a sudden i have no juice to the control so i am letting it reset or whatever overnight and see if it works in the morning .


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## dieselss

That was what I was asking you to do the other day,,see if its truck or plow first.So hot wiring the plow didnt really work as well. The only other thing I would try would have been jumper cables to the plow motor just to totally elimanite the truck. Kinda sounds like your releaf might be sticking/bad. Or internally in the valve body, the springs or check balls. The no pwr at the the controller might just be b/c you have the plugs unplugged at the grill.


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## CallBob

dieselss;1363864 said:


> That was what I was asking you to do the other day,,see if its truck or plow first.So hot wiring the plow didnt really work as well. The only other thing I would try would have been jumper cables to the plow motor just to totally elimanite the truck. Kinda sounds like your releaf might be sticking/bad. Or internally in the valve body, the springs or check balls. The no pwr at the the controller might just be b/c you have the plugs unplugged at the grill.


 Did the jumper to motor B 4 . Going to yellow teflon a small thread leak .


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## dieselss

like i said before,,,take the truck outta the picture. pwr and gnd the coil, and pwer and gnd the motor and see what happens. take all the grill conectors apart so the truck is not supplying any pwr or gnd.


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## CallBob

dieselss;1364006 said:


> like i said before,,,take the truck outta the picture. pwr and gnd the coil, and pwer and gnd the motor and see what happens. take all the grill conectors apart so the truck is not supplying any pwr or gnd.


 Gadzooks ..! I think you've got something there ! :yow!:
Took a little while to sink in , but , now i got it and just need to wait for an o ring to go on a pilot valve tomorrow ....Kool

Thanks
Bob


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## CallBob

*Almost There*

Does anyone know where to get an electric diagram of the Fisher Minute Mount Electric Motor connections at the motor ? I found a bad connection and now i have up and down on my plow but i think there's a wire hooked up where ir does not belong ...


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## samjr

*here ya go*

http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/22372_050098.pdf


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## dieselss

so whats the final verdict??


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## CallBob

dieselss;1367588 said:


> so whats the final verdict??


 Can't understand why this is happening ... There were 2 black wires connected to the plus side of the plow motor that i don't think belonged there . I put the thinner black/orange wire on the negative terminal of the plow motor and all of a sudden i have up down and right operation . I put the 2nd thicker black/orange wire on the plow motor and all of a sudden i lost all control of the plow operations . I took the thicker wire off as shown and got back my up down and right operation .
Now ...how come i got no left operation and where does this loose black/orange wire actually belong ?


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## 06Sierra

Did you put the thicker wire back on pos or neg?


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## dieselss

Without looking at the fisher diag or western diag. The bk/og is a gnd, check the website and double ck me.


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## mayhem

Wish I saw this yesterday, I would have taken a photo of mine.

I did some digging on Fisher's support website and found some relelvant documents for you.

http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/29041.00_081605.pdf

I think the black and red wire is the positive. See p9, #2.

http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/21842_072502.pdf

Can't find specifically the wiring for the plowside motor though. I'll grab some pics tonihgt when I go home though.


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## CallBob

06Sierra;1367936 said:


> Did you put the thicker wire back on pos or neg?


No ..it shuts off all plow operation .


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## 06Sierra

I meant where did you hook it back up to? The pos or neg post? Where does that wire go to?


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## CallBob

mayhem;1368513 said:


> Wish I saw this yesterday, I would have taken a photo of mine.
> 
> I did some digging on Fisher's support website and found some relelvant documents for you.
> 
> http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/29041.00_081605.pdf
> 
> I think the black and red wire is the positive. See p9, #2.
> 
> http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/21842_072502.pdf
> 
> Can't find specifically the wiring for the plowside motor though. I'll grab some pics tonihgt when I go home though.


Hi .. the 1st one doesn't apply because i bought a " new " old stock of a motor relay and did not use the updated style .
The 2nd one just isn't applying to the connections at the plow motor ....
Thanks


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## CallBob

06Sierra;1368614 said:


> I meant where did you hook it back up to? The pos or neg post? Where does that wire go to?


 It's hanging loose as shown ....


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## CallBob

dieselss;1368131 said:


> Without looking at the fisher diag or western diag. The bk/og is a gnd, check the website and double ck me.


I assumed it was ground and put it on and lost all functions right away .


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## dieselss

It's gotta be a ground. Can't be power.


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## CallBob

dieselss;1368635 said:


> It's gotta be a ground. Can't be power.


Shuts off all functions


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## dieselss

Ok. How many loose wires do u have total. Wires not in a factory wire loom? I just looked at 2 of our ultra mounts, big pos. Big meg. And a bk/og that goes to the big bk gnd of the plow motor. Pm me and I can txt you a pic of it if u can get pic txts


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## cubicinches

The heavy cable with the small red sleeve goes to the POS side of the motor. All the rest of them are grounds... The heavy battery cable, one from the plow side control harness (which grounds the coils), and one coming from your headlights (unless it has the new Intensifier lights.. which it must not, because I see the wire in your pic)


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## 06Sierra

I don't have that wire either on my 01 MM1. That is why I was wondering where it comes from.


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## mayhem

OK, so where does the other end of the black w/orange stripe wire go? In your photo it goes up, but to where?


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## CallBob

dieselss;1368709 said:


> Ok. How many loose wires do u have total. Wires not in a factory wire loom? I just looked at 2 of our ultra mounts, big pos. Big meg. And a bk/og that goes to the big bk gnd of the plow motor. Pm me and I can txt you a pic of it if u can get pic txts


 I have 1 loose wire in total . Just the 1 wire . It causes a total loss of all functions when i put it on the negative of the plow motor . Just 1 total loose wire that wipes me out when used


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## CallBob

mayhem;1368831 said:


> OK, so where does the other end of the black w/orange stripe wire go? In your photo it goes up, but to where?


 Oh ...looks like the lighting harness . 11 pins


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## cubicinches

CallBob;1368874 said:


> I have 1 loose wire in total . Just the 1 wire . It causes a total loss of all functions when i put it on the negative of the plow motor . Just 1 total loose wire that wipes me out when used


Where does that wire come from, and what color is it?


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## CallBob

cubicinches;1368881 said:


> Where does that wire come from, and what color is it?


 It's the one shown and appears to be going to the headlight harness connector .


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## CallBob

*A Bit Closer*

Alright guys .....I just disconnected all of the plugs from the truck to the plow and then ran a hotwire from the positive motor connection to the blue (#3 =Up ) and the green ( #2 =angle) and then gave the plow motor juice dirctly from the battery and --walah ! - the 1st time i have ever seen this plow move angle to the left 100% all the way !!
Now all i need to do is jump out of the truck when I'm plowing and *********** ( deleted ).
So we know now that it's not a plow side problem at least ..but , I still have the loss of all functions if i hook up that loose wire and no left angle without 2 hotwires . ( up and angle left ):laughing:


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## mayhem

That wire goes to ground on the motor.on my MM1. I see you already traced it to the lighting harness.

Sounds like progress. Glad you verified the plow is good anyway.

Bad ISO modue or controller harness maybe? I'm still going with the cracked wire in the control harness.


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## CallBob

mayhem;1369036 said:


> That wire goes to ground on the motor.on my MM1. I see you already traced it to the lighting harness.
> 
> Sounds like progress. Glad you verified the plow is good anyway.
> 
> Bad ISO modue or controller harness maybe? I'm still going with the cracked wire in the control harness.


 Okay ...So i will put in the new iso module i bought and do some more wire testing - almost said tasting 
Good to know on the mm1 wire to ground .


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## cubicinches

Sounds like harness problems, most definitely.


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## CallBob

*Electric Question*



cubicinches;1369495 said:


> Sounds like harness problems, most definitely.


 Raining all day so i stayed inside and went over the electrical Schematic . The wire that's off kills everything when i put it on . It goes to the headlight system and is the ground line for them . I don't see it going into the 11 pin connector , but , it does show the black/orange doing a double connection in the 11 pin connector without really going anyplace or being part of the system . I do have the driver side headlamp out and not sure if it's blown or a bad connection . What's the chance that this headlight being out could cause the circuit to mess up the pump because it's on the pumps negative connection ? Page # 18 .

http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/27179_070001.pdf


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## cubicinches

CallBob;1370248 said:


> Raining all day so i stayed inside and went over the electrical Schematic . The wire that's off kills everything when i put it on . It goes to the headlight system and is the ground line for them . I don't see it going into the 11 pin connector , but , it does show the black/orange doing a double connection in the 11 pin connector without really going anyplace or being part of the system . I do have the driver side headlamp out and not sure if it's blown or a bad connection . What's the chance that this headlight being out could cause the circuit to mess up the pump because it's on the pumps negative connection ? Page # 18 .
> 
> http://library.fisherplows.com/fisherplows/pdf/27179_070001.pdf


So, the plow performs all functions correctly with the black/orange wire from the headlight harness disconnected from the ground?


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## mayhem

I'm actually missing my entire driver's side headlamp (sheard it right off last season and I've been lazy) and my plow operates just fine...don't think thats the issue.

The black.orange wire goes up to the top bar on the headgear and goes right into the 11 pin cable conduit. It splices into the two sealed beam ground circuits inside the cable and according to the diagram also shorts pins 2 and 7 on the plowside harness. On the truckside it goes from pin 2 to the ground on your underhood relay and pin 7 goes to the pin C on ISO plug #2. Its a bit convoluted, but basically its all connected electrically via several grounding points on the truckside. The ISO module port #2 (vehicle lighting harness) grounds to the 11 pin plowside harness pin 7, which chorts to pin 2, which ties back to the ground on the underhod motor relay, which grounds to the battery, which also grounds the plowside motor through the 2 pin plug, which also ties in the grounding for the two main beam headlights to the plow motor...which was involved in the death of Elvis Presley who was in the 1969 file Change of habit with Ed Asner who was in 1991's film JFK with Kevin Bacon.

You see how it all ties tegether?

If you hook your truck up to the plow without that gnd connected to the motor, do the lights operate? What happens to the lights when you reconnect that wire?


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## CallBob

cubicinches;1370794 said:


> So, the plow performs all functions correctly with the black/orange wire from the headlight harness disconnected from the ground?


 It performs nothing with it connected and performs up , down , and right angle with it off. Left angle still needs a hotwire to work .


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## CallBob

mayhem;1371005 said:


> I'm actually missing my entire driver's side headlamp (sheard it right off last season and I've been lazy) and my plow operates just fine...don't think thats the issue.
> 
> The black.orange wire goes up to the top bar on the headgear and goes right into the 11 pin cable conduit. It splices into the two sealed beam ground circuits inside the cable and according to the diagram also shorts pins 2 and 7 on the plowside harness. On the truckside it goes from pin 2 to the ground on your underhood relay and pin 7 goes to the pin C on ISO plug #2. Its a bit convoluted, but basically its all connected electrically via several grounding points on the truckside. The ISO module port #2 (vehicle lighting harness) grounds to the 11 pin plowside harness pin 7, which chorts to pin 2, which ties back to the ground on the underhod motor relay, which grounds to the battery, which also grounds the plowside motor through the 2 pin plug, which also ties in the grounding for the two main beam headlights to the plow motor...which was involved in the death of Elvis Presley who was in the 1969 file Change of habit with Ed Asner who was in 1991's film JFK with Kevin Bacon.
> 
> You see how it all ties tegether?
> 
> If you hook your truck up to the plow without that gnd connected to the motor, do the lights operate? What happens to the lights when you reconnect that wire?


 Actually your right except that the wire goes up to the frame and goes LEFT to the 11 pin . It's raining so hard i can't do any work ... but ..i had the bad headlight brought inside and tested it on the multimeter and it tests as good on all points .!!
The frame headlight operates with the wire off and then with the wire connected , the headlights and the frame yellow lights come on . Do you think the Kennedy conspiracy had something to do with my headlight ?


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## 06Sierra

What is the difference when you say frame headlight and just headlight? Not that it really matters here though. I think that if you are having issues when a ground wire is hooked up, something else isn't hooked up right. Re check your connections under the hood.


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## CallBob

06Sierra;1371832 said:


> What is the difference when you say frame headlight and just headlight? Not that it really matters here though. I think that if you are having issues when a ground wire is hooked up, something else isn't hooked up right. Re check your connections under the hood.


 The difference is the truck headlight is on the truck and the frame headlight is on the plow frame . Yeup..went straight to the motor relay and re-checked those connections ............. Got 6" to 1ft. of the white stuff coming at me tonight !


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## 06Sierra

Ok, so with the wire unhooked you have plow lights. Signal/park on the plow as well? And with the wire hooked up you have plow signal/ park and truck lights. Is that right? Hook that wire up and check the 11 pin over carefully. You have a black/orange going to the relay and another to battery Neg, correct?


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## CallBob

*Tah - Dah*

All done and working just fine now .


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## 06Sierra

What was the problem?


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## dieselss

Yes what was the final verdict? I think were all dying to know


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## CallBob

dieselss;1374000 said:


> Yes what was the final verdict? I think were all dying to know


 Combination of things that were bad . Final act was hot wire the coils and force the blade to move to the left several times , add more fluid , put that loose wire on the negative plow motor and it probably didn't hurt putting a different Isolation module in also . Things jerked around for awhile before they settled down and began to operate smoothly .....I also think that switching the motor relay back to the original style probably didn't hurt things either..but , probably not needed .
Thanks for turning me into a fisher plow tech..... 
Bob


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