# What do you recommend for air pressure in tires with plow on?



## bebop86

Guys I have 2012 2 door with the stock 17 inch tires- With the Western HTS plow and about 300 lbs. of weight in the back- How much air should I have in the tires for proper plowing- thks


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## SnoFarmer

What does it say in the door jam or glovebox tag


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## coke813

The same pressure you should have in your tires every day without the plow on.


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## JustJeff

SnoFarmer;2100037 said:


> What does it say in the door jam or glovebox tag


That's only correct if you've got OEM tires. When I switched tires, the recommended tire pressure was 10 lbs. less. But I run the maximum pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer.


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## SnoFarmer

Harleyjeff;2100124 said:


> That's only correct if you've got OEM tires. When I switched tires, the recommended tire pressure was 10 lbs. less. But I run the maximum pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer.


The OP posted " the stock 17 inch tires".
so yea.


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## Whiffyspark

35 psi is what I would run


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## theplowmeister

Harleyjeff;2100124 said:


> That's only correct if you've got OEM tires. When I switched tires, the recommended tire pressure was 10 lbs. less. But I run the maximum pressure recommended by the tire manufacturer.


Ummmmm WHY?


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## terrapro

Whatever the sidewall of the tire recommends, if they are E load's usually around 80psi is max so 70-80psi is where I would be


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## JustJeff

theplowmeister;2100263 said:


> Ummmmm WHY?


Why what?? What was so hard to understand? My OEM tires took 75 PSI max, my Duratracs take 65 PSI max.


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## Mark Oomkes

If you don't run at the recommended pressure every day, air them up to that pressure, because you are now loaded. 

Wish I was loaded right now.


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## Dogplow Dodge

The first thing I would do with that Jeep is purchase a set of junkyard rims (or new if you have $$ to blow) and put a set of Firestone Winterforce LT tires on it, and use them just in the winter.

They're freaking AMAZING in the snow/ slush / wet roads. We had our first round the other day, and there were areas where the snow / slush was really slippery. My truck stuck like it was on rails. I didn't even have the 480 lbs of ballast in the rear of the bed yet.

My front tires, I run the max pressure on the tire sidewall. The rears, I run them 10psi less. I do this simply because the rear of the truck is significantly less heavy than the front, so the reduction in tire pressure helps grip a bit better.


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## Whiffyspark

terrapro;2100317 said:


> Whatever the sidewall of the tire recommends, if they are E load's usually around 80psi is max so 70-80psi is where I would be


 80 psi in a jeep....?


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## Whiffyspark

Harleyjeff;2100340 said:


> Why what?? What was so hard to understand? My OEM tires took 75 PSI max, my Duratracs take 65 PSI max.


So you dropped from e to d right?


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## theplowmeister

Harleyjeff;2100340 said:


> Why what?? What was so hard to understand? My OEM tires took 75 PSI max, my Duratracs take 65 PSI max.


What is so hard to understand about WHY? why do you pump the tires up to the max?

The tire not only has the max psi it also has the max load @ the max psi.

If your not running the max load but you run the max psi your over inflated. the tire wont have the proper contact patch on the ground and its going to wear out the center area of the tread.


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## JustJeff

theplowmeister;2100357 said:


> What is so hard to understand about WHY? why do you pump the tires up to the max?
> 
> The tire not only has the max psi it also has the max load @ the max psi.
> 
> If your not running the max load but you run the max psi your over inflated. the tire wont have the proper contact patch on the ground and its going to wear out the center area of the tread.


Yes, I went from E to D (unknowingly at the time). Once I realized it, I checked the sidewall of both the old and new tires, and the load capacity was the same. Don't know why. If I don't fill them to maximum PSI the whole truck feels sloppy and loose, especially the front end.


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## terrapro

Whiffyspark;2100349 said:


> 80 psi in a jeep....?


Are you mudding and rock crawling or are you using it as a work truck? 
Are you putting an 800-1000lb plow on the front and appropriate ballast in the back?


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## Whiffyspark

terrapro;2100399 said:


> Are you mudding and rock crawling or are you using it as a work truck?
> Are you putting an 800-1000lb plow on the front and appropriate ballast in the back?


I've never ran 80 psi even on 10 ply tires. Rides like ****. My last 3/4 got ran at 65 psi.


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## gunsworth

Lmao at some comments... always gonby factory rating. If you are hauling enough in a jeep to need e rated tires with 80psi then youbhave bigger concerns than tire pressure. For what it is worth when i started plowing in a 98 wrangler i always went down to 20psi and never had an issue. This was also with a little 6.5 meyer plow, but we did have 31in all terrains on it. Even now my 3/4 tons i just run what they call for on the door. The engineers spent a lot of time deciding what settings are optimal for each vehicle, the tire companies simply offer the max psi the tires can safely handle, doesnt mean it is optimal for every vehicle and application.


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## Philbilly2

Mark Oomkes;2100342 said:


> Wish I was loaded right now.


x2 and I think we are speaking of the same loaded!!! Lots of interesting info here.... 

Look at your sidewall... make your best judgement from there. That number is the MAX inflation not the recommended inflation.

Too much air will crown the tread faster, under inflated will wear the outsides faster and if you hit something with the tire hard, blow out or cause rim damage.


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## MLG

I run about 35 in mine (Cherokee). I think 36 is the max as I recall.


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## 1olddogtwo

I run with whatever is in there from the night before.


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## peteo1

1olddogtwo;2103330 said:


> I run with whatever is in there from the night before.


But the big question is did you take the summer air out of them in the fall?


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## theplowmeister

no I add fall air to my tires. All the pretty colors help the fall air work better in the tires


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## jasonv

Wow. Ok....
1) DO NOT run at the tire's max pressure. It will cause your tires to wear unevenly, it will make the ride rough, and on top of that, it is DANGEROUS.
2) The pressure for a tire is calculated based on a formula involving the weight that they are to bear.
3) If you put a weight on a jeep that matches an E-rated tire at maximum pressure, you will turn that jeep's frame into a pretzel and break off all the wheels. NOT KIDDING HERE!!!

While it is appropriate to increase the pressure when carrying a snow plow, it isn't even close to an E-rated tire's max. Not even a C's max. Maybe a P's max.

Here's some instructions and charts. Note that for a jeep's tire sizes, 35 psi corresponds to about 1600-1700 pounds **ON AN INDIVIDUAL WHEEL**. That is an important distinctions, because it means that in theory, you can sit around 6600 pounds TOTAL on the thing at 35 psi. Naturally, however, you're going to have a bit more weight on the front than the back, because that's where the engine is. So imagining for a moment, that your front wheels have each 1250 pounds sitting on them (total 2500 pounds on the front), add on a 500 pound plow (3000 pounds, lets say, yeah, its cantilevered out the front so it will be a little bit more complicated than that, but just for the point of mathing it out lets say 3000). Half of 3000 is 1500. 1500 is still a little bit under the tire's load at 35 psi. A "C" tire will get you 2100-2200 pounds per tire at 50 PSI. That is WAY over what you need.

https://toyotires2-1524598101.netdn...ication_of_Load_Inflation_Tables_20151020.pdf

Step up to an "E" at max pressure, and you're looking at 3200-3400 pounds PER TIRE. That is MORE THAN DOUBLE what you will be putting on it.

But feel free to run an "E" rated tire, just make sure that you don't overfill it for your application. 35 psi will do the job. 40 max if you just want to make sure.

My jeep never goes beyond a radius of 500 feet from its parking spot, so I don't really need to pay much attention beyond taking a quick walkaround with the plow up to make sure that the tires "look" ok. However, my Toyota Tacoma runs lots of road miles. Factory inflation pressure for it is 29 psi all around on P245/75R16. This is probably not too far off from what a Jeep would call for. When I'm carrying a plow, I raise the fronts to 35. I run tires with load range "E", for two reasons; (1) puncture resistance, (2) they actually have a deeper tread, so more life in a set.

The safety issue with overinflation;
1) The harder the tire, the less it conforms to what you are driving over. That means an increased chance of a puncture.
2) With overinflation, the center of the tread will push out, and literally raise the edges of the tire off the ground, this causes center wear. See image below.
3) Harder tire means less rubber on the road. This translates to reduced TRACTION, which can reduce your ability to control the vehicle in an emergency.
4) When running over obstructions -- bumps/dips in the road, like potholes, expansion joints, debris -- rather than the tire conforming to the obstruction and maintaining contact with the road, the tire can BOUNCE, leaving the road, and contributing to a loss of control. Expansion joints on curving overpasses are particularly problematic, especially when you hit them at high speeds, and even worse when the road is a little bit slick from water or SNOW/ICE. Just think about how much fun it would be to end up with your back wheels leading you while 50 feet up in the air travelling at 60+ mph. Better hope that the guardrail stops you. Also note that jeeps are short, which means that they'll spin around much easier than a longer vehicle like a pickup truck.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmcpH1q9CyA/UGNnoUNQLGI/AAAAAAAAAMM/6hgdSoiFHoQ/s1600/tire wear.jpg


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## novawagonmaster

My Jeep came with 30x9.50R15 and 29 psi is recommended by the manufacturer (light vehicle on a big tire).

My Winter setup is P245/75R16 Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1. I run them at 32 PSI even though the max listed on the sidewall is 50 psi. 32 is plenty to carry the additional load of the plow and ballast.


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## terrapro

jasonv;2118830 said:


> Wow. Ok....
> 1) DO NOT run at the tire's max pressure. It will cause your tires to wear unevenly, it will make the ride rough, and on top of that, it is DANGEROUS.
> 2) The pressure for a tire is calculated based on a formula involving the weight that they are to bear.
> 3) If you put a weight on a jeep that matches an E-rated tire at maximum pressure, you will turn that jeep's frame into a pretzel and break off all the wheels. NOT KIDDING HERE!!!
> 
> While it is appropriate to increase the pressure when carrying a snow plow, it isn't even close to an E-rated tire's max. Not even a C's max. Maybe a P's max.
> 
> Here's some instructions and charts. Note that for a jeep's tire sizes, 35 psi corresponds to about 1600-1700 pounds **ON AN INDIVIDUAL WHEEL**. That is an important distinctions, because it means that in theory, you can sit around 6600 pounds TOTAL on the thing at 35 psi. Naturally, however, you're going to have a bit more weight on the front than the back, because that's where the engine is. So imagining for a moment, that your front wheels have each 1250 pounds sitting on them (total 2500 pounds on the front), add on a 500 pound plow (3000 pounds, lets say, yeah, its cantilevered out the front so it will be a little bit more complicated than that, but just for the point of mathing it out lets say 3000). Half of 3000 is 1500. 1500 is still a little bit under the tire's load at 35 psi. A "C" tire will get you 2100-2200 pounds per tire at 50 PSI. That is WAY over what you need.
> 
> https://toyotires2-1524598101.netdn...ication_of_Load_Inflation_Tables_20151020.pdf
> 
> Step up to an "E" at max pressure, and you're looking at 3200-3400 pounds PER TIRE. That is MORE THAN DOUBLE what you will be putting on it.
> 
> But feel free to run an "E" rated tire, just make sure that you don't overfill it for your application. 35 psi will do the job. 40 max if you just want to make sure.
> 
> My jeep never goes beyond a radius of 500 feet from its parking spot, so I don't really need to pay much attention beyond taking a quick walkaround with the plow up to make sure that the tires "look" ok. However, my Toyota Tacoma runs lots of road miles. Factory inflation pressure for it is 29 psi all around on P245/75R16. This is probably not too far off from what a Jeep would call for. When I'm carrying a plow, I raise the fronts to 35. I run tires with load range "E", for two reasons; (1) puncture resistance, (2) they actually have a deeper tread, so more life in a set.
> 
> The safety issue with overinflation;
> 1) The harder the tire, the less it conforms to what you are driving over. That means an increased chance of a puncture.
> 2) With overinflation, the center of the tread will push out, and literally raise the edges of the tire off the ground, this causes center wear. See image below.
> 3) Harder tire means less rubber on the road. This translates to reduced TRACTION, which can reduce your ability to control the vehicle in an emergency.
> 4) When running over obstructions -- bumps/dips in the road, like potholes, expansion joints, debris -- rather than the tire conforming to the obstruction and maintaining contact with the road, the tire can BOUNCE, leaving the road, and contributing to a loss of control. Expansion joints on curving overpasses are particularly problematic, especially when you hit them at high speeds, and even worse when the road is a little bit slick from water or SNOW/ICE. Just think about how much fun it would be to end up with your back wheels leading you while 50 feet up in the air travelling at 60+ mph. Better hope that the guardrail stops you. Also note that jeeps are short, which means that they'll spin around much easier than a longer vehicle like a pickup truck.
> 
> http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmcpH1q9CyA/UGNnoUNQLGI/AAAAAAAAAMM/6hgdSoiFHoQ/s1600/tire wear.jpg


Good grief that was a lot of talking...

And over inflation happens when you inflate a tire passed what IT's manufacturer recommends not what is recommended for the vehicle.


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## Mark Oomkes

terrapro;2119111 said:


> Good grief that was a lot of talking...
> 
> And over inflation happens when you inflate a tire passed what IT's manufacturer recommends not what is recommended for the vehicle.


Sure was short and sweet to summarize that his post was a load of bovine excrement.


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## jomama45

Mark Oomkes;2119115 said:


> Sure was short and sweet to summarize that his post was a load of bovine excrement.


I beg to differ, at least BS can be re-purposed into something useful, unlike that post, which is a waste fo valuable monitor ink...........


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## Mark Oomkes

jomama45;2119127 said:


> I beg to differ, at least BS can be re-purposed into something useful, unlike that post, which is a waste fo valuable monitor ink...........


Point made and taken.


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## Mark Oomkes

jomama45;2119127 said:


> I beg to differ, at least BS can be re-purposed into something useful, unlike that post, which is a waste fo valuable monitor ink...........


I think I need to PM you my number so I can give you crap aboot cheese wheels more often.


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## 1olddogtwo

jasonv;2118830 said:


> Wow. Ok....
> 1) DO NOT run at the tire's max pressure. It will cause your tires to wear unevenly, it will make the ride rough, and on top of that, it is DANGEROUS.
> 2) The pressure for a tire is calculated based on a formula involving the weight that they are to bear.
> 3) If you put a weight on a jeep that matches an E-rated tire at maximum pressure, you will turn that jeep's frame into a pretzel and break off all the wheels. NOT KIDDING HERE!!!
> 
> While it is appropriate to increase the pressure when carrying a snow plow, it isn't even close to an E-rated tire's max. Not even a C's max. Maybe a P's max.
> 
> Here's some instructions and charts. Note that for a jeep's tire sizes, 35 psi corresponds to about 1600-1700 pounds **ON AN INDIVIDUAL WHEEL**. That is an important distinctions, because it means that in theory, you can sit around 6600 pounds TOTAL on the thing at 35 psi. Naturally, however, you're going to have a bit more weight on the front than the back, because that's where the engine is. So imagining for a moment, that your front wheels have each 1250 pounds sitting on them (total 2500 pounds on the front), add on a 500 pound plow (3000 pounds, lets say, yeah, its cantilevered out the front so it will be a little bit more complicated than that, but just for the point of mathing it out lets say 3000). Half of 3000 is 1500. 1500 is still a little bit under the tire's load at 35 psi. A "C" tire will get you 2100-2200 pounds per tire at 50 PSI. That is WAY over what you need.
> 
> https://toyotires2-1524598101.netdn...ication_of_Load_Inflation_Tables_20151020.pdf
> 
> Step up to an "E" at max pressure, and you're looking at 3200-3400 pounds PER TIRE. That is MORE THAN DOUBLE what you will be putting on it.
> 
> But feel free to run an "E" rated tire, just make sure that you don't overfill it for your application. 35 psi will do the job. 40 max if you just want to make sure.
> 
> My jeep never goes beyond a radius of 500 feet from its parking spot, so I don't really need to pay much attention beyond taking a quick walkaround with the plow up to make sure that the tires "look" ok. However, my Toyota Tacoma runs lots of road miles. Factory inflation pressure for it is 29 psi all around on P245/75R16. This is probably not too far off from what a Jeep would call for. When I'm carrying a plow, I raise the fronts to 35. I run tires with load range "E", for two reasons; (1) puncture resistance, (2) they actually have a deeper tread, so more life in a set.
> 
> The safety issue with overinflation;
> 1) The harder the tire, the less it conforms to what you are driving over. That means an increased chance of a puncture.
> 2) With overinflation, the center of the tread will push out, and literally raise the edges of the tire off the ground, this causes center wear. See image below.
> 3) Harder tire means less rubber on the road. This translates to reduced TRACTION, which can reduce your ability to control the vehicle in an emergency.
> 4) When running over obstructions -- bumps/dips in the road, like potholes, expansion joints, debris -- rather than the tire conforming to the obstruction and maintaining contact with the road, the tire can BOUNCE, leaving the road, and contributing to a loss of control. Expansion joints on curving overpasses are particularly problematic, especially when you hit them at high speeds, and even worse when the road is a little bit slick from water or SNOW/ICE. Just think about how much fun it would be to end up with your back wheels leading you while 50 feet up in the air travelling at 60+ mph. Better hope that the guardrail stops you. Also note that jeeps are short, which means that they'll spin around much easier than a longer vehicle like a pickup truck.
> 
> http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FmcpH1q9CyA/UGNnoUNQLGI/AAAAAAAAAMM/6hgdSoiFHoQ/s1600/tire wear.jpg


You failed to mention that tire pressure will rise when tires heat up.

I prefer nitrogen myself.


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## terrapro

1olddogtwo;2119143 said:


> You failed to mention that tire pressure will rise when tires heat up.
> 
> I prefer nitrogen myself.


I prefer my nitrogen around 78% on my passenger cars, 80% on bicycles, and 76% on my jeeps to make sure the frame doesn't turn into a pretzel


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## Mark Oomkes

terrapro;2119232 said:


> I prefer my nitrogen around 78% on my passenger cars, 80% on bicycles, and 76% on my jeeps to make sure the frame doesn't turn into a pretzel


I think I'll try that.


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## theplowmeister

Mark Oomkes;2119115 said:


> Sure was short and sweet to summarize that his post was a load of bovine excrement.


Well if cant use science and logic lest gust use ****.


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## theplowmeister

terrapro;2119111 said:


> Good grief that was a lot of talking...
> 
> And over inflation happens when you inflate a tire passed what IT's manufacturer recommends not what is recommended for the vehicle.


That is one def of over inflation. another is def is when the tire mo longer has the proper PSI for the load on it..


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## jasonv

terrapro;2119111 said:


> Good grief that was a lot of talking...
> 
> And over inflation happens when you inflate a tire passed what IT's manufacturer recommends not what is recommended for the vehicle.


WRONG.
Overinflation is what happens when you exceed the pressure recommended ON THE VEHICLE, NOT THE TIRE.


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## dieselss

...............


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## coke813

I think Jason V is correct in theory. But it is not as simple in practice.
Saying the vehicle manufacture's recommended pressure is right every time neglects the variations in tire size from stock, and the added weight of the plow.

If you are driving on stock sized tires, you should always follow the little sticker on the door jamb. But once you add a plow + counterweight, you have changed the weight of the vehicle by 10-20% extra. I would think adding a bit more air makes sense. But there is no reason to ever inflate the tire to the MAX allowable pressure, unless your vehicle weighs the maximum weight allowed by those 4 tires. (which is probably over the GVWR)

As others have stated, the vehicle recommended pressure was determined to maximize ride quality, safety and fuel economy.

That being said, we're never going to convince someone if they think differently or their "ride" is better. You do whatever you want. They're your tires. There are huge differences between passenger vehicle tires and commercial truck tires. This is just information to help the original poster figure out the answer to his question.


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## Mark Oomkes

jasonv;2119427 said:


> WRONG.
> Overinflation is what happens when you exceed the pressure recommended ON THE VEHICLE, NOT THE TIRE.


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## SnoFarmer

A lot of vehicles that are normally used to haul load will have two psi recommendations for the stock tire,( size& weight rating)

one for a light load and one for a heavy load.
the heavy load psi can be !0psi less than the tires max psi.

when you add a plow and counter weight it is a good idea to add some air and bring up the psi.

depending on the weight you subject the tire too you could run them at the max psi that is on the sidewall regardless of what the door jam says .

under inflation can lead to tire damage and loss of control.


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## jasonv

coke813;2119464 said:


> I think Jason V is correct in theory. But it is not as simple in practice.
> 
> Saying the vehicle manufacture's recommended pressure is right every time neglects the variations in tire size from stock, and the added weight of the plow.
> 
> If you are driving on stock sized tires, you should always follow the little sticker on the door jamb. But once you add a plow + counterweight, you have changed the weight of the vehicle by 10-20% extra. I would think adding a bit more air makes sense. But there is no reason to ever inflate the tire to the MAX allowable pressure, unless your vehicle weighs the maximum weight allowed by those 4 tires. (which is probably over the GVWR)
> 
> As others have stated, the vehicle recommended pressure was determined to maximize ride quality, safety and fuel economy.
> 
> That being said, we're never going to convince someone if they think differently or their "ride" is better. You do whatever you want. They're your tires. There are huge differences between passenger vehicle tires and commercial truck tires. This is just information to help the original poster figure out the answer to his question.


Which is the reason for the detailed post I made previously, with links to technical documentation from actual tire manufacturers. Point is that the number stamped into the side of the tire is only the absolute limit for the tire, but the rest of the details about *correct* inflation can be found (a) on the sticker on the driver's door jamb, for factory tires and standard load, and (b) in the technical documentation provided by the tire's manufacturer.

Or you can DIY it approximately using the "chalk trick", which is to draw a chalk line on dry pavement, and drive over it, to make sure that the tread picks up the chalk evenly, which means that it is exerting force evenly. This approach is somewhat inaccurate, but can at least make sure that you are in the right ballpark. If you see it picking up chalk only in the center of the tread, you are overinflated. If you see it picking up chalk mostly at the edges of the tread, it is underinflated.

While you are probably right that some people won't be convinced, it doesn't change the fact that running at severe overinflation is actually *dangerous*, therefore it is reasonable to at least *try* to explain it. Think about it like this; every person who figures it out is one less person who might eventually lose control and kill someone.


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## BUFF

1olddogtwo;2119143 said:


> I prefer nitrogen myself.


I prefer beer oot of a nitro tap.


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## terrapro

jasonv;2119427 said:


> WRONG.
> Overinflation is what happens when you exceed the pressure recommended ON THE VEHICLE, NOT THE TIRE.


The only reason why I am replying to your ridiculousness is because I fear people who don't know any better are going to listen to you...

I will give you a general example to hopefully simplify it for you. 
I have 2 trucks, one a typical half ton or F150 C/K1500 etc that the recommended tire is a C load at 50psi and then I have a one ton truck or F350 C/K3500 etc that the recommended tire is an E load at 80psi. 
I for whatever reason would like to switch the tires from the half ton to the one ton and visa versa. These tires are not different other than the load rating same brand and model. 
You would not have to change the tire pressure in either set of tires. 
You do however run the risk of a blowout on the one ton vehicle with the C load tires at 50psi, and if you increase the tire pressure to the one ton vehicles recommended tires pressure you would most likely blow your face off from the explosion from OVERINFLATION.
However even though you do not need to if you lowered the pressure in the half ton truck with the E load tires to the recommended vehicle pressure there would be a much less dramatic response if any at all.

And after typing all that I realize it probably wont make a difference to you, but I do wish you the best Thumbs Up


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## Mark Oomkes

BUFF;2119487 said:


> I prefer beer oot of a nitro tap.


Speaking of which.................


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## Mark Oomkes

terrapro;2119489 said:


> The only reason why I am replying to your ridiculousness is because I fear people who don't know any better are going to listen to you...
> 
> I will give you a general example to hopefully simplify it for you.
> I have 2 trucks, one a typical half ton or F150 C/K1500 etc that the recommended tire is a C load at 50psi and then I have a one ton truck or F350 C/K3500 etc that the recommended tire is an E load at 80psi.
> I for whatever reason would like to switch the tires from the half ton to the one ton and visa versa. These tires are not different other than the load rating same brand and model.
> You would not have to change the tire pressure in either set of tires.
> You do however run the risk of a blowout on the one ton vehicle with the C load tires at 50psi, and if you increase the tire pressure to the one ton vehicles recommended tires pressure you would most likely blow your face off from the explosion from OVERINFLATION.
> However even though you do not need to if you lowered the pressure in the half ton truck with the E load tires to the recommended vehicle pressure there would be a much less dramatic response if any at all.
> 
> And after typing all that I realize it probably wont make a difference to you, but I do wish you the best Thumbs Up


Talk aboot where the rubber hits the road...................


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## jasonv

terrapro;2119489 said:


> The only reason why I am replying to your ridiculousness is because I fear people who don't know any better are going to listen to you...
> 
> I will give you a general example to hopefully simplify it for you.
> I have 2 trucks, one a typical half ton or F150 C/K1500 etc that the recommended tire is a C load at 50psi and then I have a one ton truck or F350 C/K3500 etc that the recommended tire is an E load at 80psi.
> I for whatever reason would like to switch the tires from the half ton to the one ton and visa versa. These tires are not different other than the load rating same brand and model.
> You would not have to change the tire pressure in either set of tires.
> You do however run the risk of a blowout on the one ton vehicle with the C load tires at 50psi, and if you increase the tire pressure to the one ton vehicles recommended tires pressure you would most likely blow your face off from the explosion from OVERINFLATION.
> However even though you do not need to if you lowered the pressure in the half ton truck with the E load tires to the recommended vehicle pressure there would be a much less dramatic response if any at all.
> 
> And after typing all that I realize it probably wont make a difference to you, but I do wish you the best Thumbs Up


Your example doesn't work, because those C range tires CANNOT be safely used on the 350/3500 with a "near full" load. The E range tires, CAN, however, be used on the 150/1500, but should be deflated to an appropriate pressure for the load that will be placed on them.

Note that the blowout of the C range tires will be due to heat caused by excess flexing under the EXCESSIVE LOAD of the vehicle with its maximum payload.

If you are running the 350/3500 with NO payload, you'll be fine with the C range tires. In fact, you'll be fine up to and a bit over (built in safety margin) the maximum load of the C range tires. Get into a LOAD that requires the E range tires though and you'll be in a dangerous situation.

Looks like 350/3500 will have a curb weight of around 6500 pounds, which is going to be mostly over the front, but even if it was balanced all around, that would be 1625 per tire. In the very least, C range tires would be safe on the REAR with NO LOAD. Maybe not on the front, depends on just how that weight is distributed, and their literature has no indication.

Also, I'd *really* like to know in what universe it seems reasonable to put 80 psi / 13,000 pound capable tires under a 3760 pound *JEEP*. The GVWR on the thing isn't even 5000 pounds!!! The tires themselves are fine, but that pressure is simply *insane* for the vehicle, and downright dangerous.


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## coke813

I think people are getting side tracked by the endless possibilities of changing to aftermarket tires. The original question said he was running STOCK tires.
Of course the tire pressure depends on the tires you are using. Larger, wider tires require less PSI to support the same load as a smaller, narrower tire, etc. (its proportional to the amount of surface area touching the ground, that's why most people agree plow trucks work better with narrow tires than with big fat mud tires)
Use common sense. Inflating anything above what it necessary for your tire to safely support the load that is riding on it does not gain you anything.


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## SnoFarmer

While the maximum load of the vehicle is the primary factor in establishing the recommended pressures, many other considerations went into the calculations,
It is not against the law to load your vehicle over what the MFG was recommended.

Load curve.
http://static1.1.sqspcdn.com/static/f/589830/23447320/1378330097907/Discount+Tire+inflation.pdf


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## BUFF

Most vehicles from 2000 and up have TPMS...... just say'in.....


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## SnoFarmer

BUFF;2119586 said:


> Most vehicles from 2000 and up have TPMS...... just say'in.....


And that Amber light on the dash stops what?
Just say'en


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## terrapro

jasonv;2119534 said:


> Your example doesn't work, because those C range tires CANNOT be safely used on the 350/3500 with a "near full" load. The E range tires, CAN, however, be used on the 150/1500, but should be deflated to an appropriate pressure for the load that will be placed on them.
> 
> Note that the blowout of the C range tires will be due to heat caused by excess flexing under the EXCESSIVE LOAD of the vehicle with its maximum payload.
> 
> If you are running the 350/3500 with NO payload, you'll be fine with the C range tires. In fact, you'll be fine up to and a bit over (built in safety margin) the maximum load of the C range tires. Get into a LOAD that requires the E range tires though and you'll be in a dangerous situation.
> 
> Looks like 350/3500 will have a curb weight of around 6500 pounds, which is going to be mostly over the front, but even if it was balanced all around, that would be 1625 per tire. In the very least, C range tires would be safe on the REAR with NO LOAD. Maybe not on the front, depends on just how that weight is distributed, and their literature has no indication.
> 
> Also, I'd *really* like to know in what universe it seems reasonable to put 80 psi / 13,000 pound capable tires under a 3760 pound *JEEP*. The GVWR on the thing isn't even 5000 pounds!!! The tires themselves are fine, but that pressure is simply *insane* for the vehicle, and downright dangerous.


Comments like that and arguing the way you are is why people get so confused about the topic.


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## jasonv

terrapro;2119636 said:


> Comments like that and arguing the way you are is why people get so confused about the topic.


So writing lots of words to explain something in detail is confusing?

I counter that statement with "inability to read and understand is the definition of illiteracy".


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## SnoFarmer

ever since i was put on ignore...


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## BUFF

SnoFarmer;2119615 said:


> And that Amber light on the dash stops what?
> Just say'en


Nothing, just like what's to stop someone for paying a premium for load range "E" tires on a vehicle that doesn't need a load range higher than "C" and running 29psi in them.

Yusta Say'n.....


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## SnoFarmer

BUFF;2119702 said:


> Nothing, just like what's to stop someone for paying a premium for load range "E" tires on a vehicle that doesn't need a load range higher than "C" and running 29psi in them.
> 
> Yusta Say'n.....


What if you load your vehicle in a way that it goes over the MFG's weight suggestions ?
Is the suggested tire( that is a minimum) still sufficient?

Thus facilitating the need for a tire with a higher weight rating.
Regardless of the MGF's tire suggestions.

Just Say'en

hey. what aboot punting big muddres on a 3500 that doesn't have training wheels?
as most of them are "load D" when the door-jam sticker calls for a tire with a higher rating?


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## jasonv

BUFF;2119702 said:


> Nothing, just like what's to stop someone for paying a premium for load range "E" tires on a vehicle that doesn't need a load range higher than "C" and running 29psi in them.
> 
> Yusta Say'n.....


You are trying to imply that there is *no* advantage to running E's on a smaller vehicle, which isn't necessarily the case.

I know of potentially three advantages to running E's on smaller trucks (with *correct* inflation, not 80 psi...), and that is that the E's have more reinforced tread and sidewall belting, which improves puncture resistance, *in some cases* (may vary between manufacturers or tire model), the E's may have deeper threads, and *in some cases*, the E's may have more useful ratings. I guess that the reason behind the boost in tread depth would be that a heavier vehicle will wear its tires a bit faster, so throw them a bone and give them a bit more tread life. In any case, more tread (of the same construction) means more life, regardless of the truck size.

Example;

Tread depth 12/32 of an inch, NOT rated for "severe snow", $177 regular price:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...6WATAOWL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Same tire (including size) in load range "E"... 15/32 of an inch tread, SEVERE SNOW RATED, $205 regular price:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...5SR6WATA&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

While 3/32 of an inch doesn't sound like a lot, its an extra 25%. So at a base price of $177, plus bumping the tread life by 25%, that gives it an equivalent dollar value of 1.25 * 177 = $221.25, yet the price of the load range "E" version is $205. So economically, the E's make more sense.

Plus add to that the fact that the E's are severe snow rated (mountain+snowflake symbol) and the C's (or whatever they are) are NOT, means that in a lot of places, you even get an insurance discount for having them.
****** EDIT: If you are a resident of QUEBEC, CANADA, you are legally REQUIRED to have "winter" tires in order to operate your vehicle in Quebec between Dec 15 and Mar 15. The E's qualify. The C's **DO NOT**.
http://www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca/en/road_safety/vehicles/winter_tires/index.php

So from that point of view, if you're going to buy THAT tire model, the load range E's are a no-brainer, even if you aren't strictly required to go up to the E's.


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## SnoFarmer

http://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Load Range C

(Pro-Grade tires meet the industry's severe snow service rating.

Just Say'en


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## 1olddogtwo

Centrifical force hasn't been covered.

So lets say for the sake of the argument that tire is inflated 30 psi (forget that mumbo jumbo about manufacturers for a min). So I'll role play this (Love role play) and I have the plow mounted and in the down/float position. I fire up to the compressor, unscrew the tire cap, insert the tire gauge and I adjust the pressure to 30 psi (206.843kpa). Now I replace the cap and repeat to the other 3 tires (5 if you have the double back tires).

Now here is where I need some enlightenment..... 

I jump in the truck and raise the plow, what PSI are my tires now?


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## terrapro

jasonv;2119698 said:


> So writing lots of words to explain something in detail is confusing?
> 
> I counter that statement with "inability to read and understand is the definition of illiteracy".


This is what you want to spend your time doing? Arguing that the reason you should use the vehicle recommended tire pressure and not the tire recommended pressure is because you should be using a tire that is recommended by the manufacturer not one that suits ones personal needs better.


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## terrapro

Wheres Plowmeister, doesn't he have 2 jeeps one with Boss V and a lead bumper that I am sure is quite heavy? Wonder if he runs overinflated E load tires on his?


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## SnoFarmer

1olddogtwo;2119745 said:


> Centrifical force hasn't been covered.
> 
> So lets say for the sake of the argument that tire is inflated 30 psi (forget that mumbo jumbo about manufacturers for a min). So I'll role play this (Love role play) and I have the plow mounted and in the down/float position. I fire up to the compressor, unscrew the tire cap, insert the tire gauge and I adjust the pressure to 30 psi (206.843kpa). Now I replace the cap and repeat to the other 3 tires (5 if you have the double back tires).
> 
> Now here is where I need some enlightenment.....
> 
> I jump in the truck and raise the plow, what PSI are my tires now?


Repete....

There at what whatever it said on the tire gauge or in your case 30psi, when you got done filling them reguardless of the weight of the truck

But waite a sec and Jason will give you the encyclopedia bertanicel version.....


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## BUFF

SnoFarmer;2119714 said:


> What if you load your vehicle in a way that it goes over the MFG's weight suggestions ?
> Is the suggested tire( that is a minimum) still sufficient?
> 
> Thus facilitating the need for a tire with a higher weight rating.
> Regardless of the MGF's tire suggestions.
> 
> Just Say'en
> 
> hey. what aboot punting big muddres on a 3500 that doesn't have training wheels?
> as most of them are "load D" when the door-jam sticker calls for a tire with a higher rating?


The owner/operator accepts the risk of exceeding the MFG's load rating of a vehicle or trailer along with no having tires that would carry that load. Sure you can put load range "E" tires on a 1/2ton pickup, set a couple blocks of wood between the axle / frame and load a cord or so of green wood in it. Will it work.... it sure will but axle will eventually fail.

I used to run 38/12.50/16.5 Super Swampers TSL's Bias ply tires on my '77 Hi-Boy and they have a 3845# rating.



jasonv;2119720 said:


> You are trying to imply that there is *no* advantage to running E's on a smaller vehicle, which isn't necessarily the case.
> 
> Plus add to that the fact that the E's are severe snow rated (mountain+snowflake symbol) and the C's (or whatever they are) are NOT, means that in a lot of places, you even get an insurance discount for having them.
> .


You can run whatever tire you want on your vehicle, you want overkill and pay for it you go right a head.

As far as snow rated tires go they are available in just aboot every tire size for passenger vehicles, SUV's and pickups. I would have thought being an expert in everything under the sun you would be aware of this.


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## coke813

1olddogtwo;2119745 said:


> I jump in the truck and raise the plow, what PSI are my tires now?


Your tires should still read 30 psi, but in order for the front tire to hold up the extra weight, it is now squished a little more, giving it more contact area with the pavement.

Inflating it to a little higher pressure would reduce the amount of "squishing", thus reducing friction. Now friction is what wastes fuel and wears out the tread faster


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## BossPlow2010




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## terrapro

coke813;2119757 said:


> Your tires should still read 30 psi, but in order for the front tire to hold up the extra weight, it is now squished a little more, giving it more contact area with the pavement.
> 
> *Inflating it to a little higher pressure would reduce the amount of "squishing", thus reducing friction.* Now friction is what wastes fuel and wears out the tread faster


Aaaannnnd so how do you safely put a higher pressure in a tire to handle the load better?.......
You replace it with a higher rated tire that may not be recommended by the manufacturer, so that would mean you should go ahead and follow the recommended pressure on the tire!

This is such a  conversation! 
I just don't want someone coming here reading this then loading there E loads to 50 psi because the door jam says so. 
Think of what a DOT officer would say, hmm wonder how that would go lol? "Heres your tickets for running your tires 30psi below the rating, oh and here is your overload ticket"....."but but but the door jam said I should run less psi!"


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## SnoFarmer

BUFF;2119753 said:


> The owner/operator accepts the risk of exceeding the MFG's load rating of a vehicle or trailer along with no having tires that would carry that load. Sure you can put load range "E" tires on a 1/2ton pickup, set a couple blocks of wood between the axle / frame and load a cord or so of green wood in it. Will it work.... it sure will but axle will eventually fail.
> 
> I used to run 38/12.50/16.5 Super Swampers TSL's Bias ply tires on my '77 Hi-Boy and they have a 3845# rating.


Nice, I have a set of 35x 12.5 X 16.5 Load range D on my 79 power Wagon
With close to the same weight numbers as yours.

A chunk of fire wood will work too,
Or add a set of air bags or different springs. Timmes

The owner always accepted the risk of operating a moter vehicle
Be it new and in stock condition or modified.

I have E tires oa a truck,
The door sticker gives me 2 reconditions for the psi in the rear tires,
Light load 40some psi.
Heavy load 60 some psi .
Tire has a mas psi ratting of 80psi.
I don't know the exact # but that is within 5psi give or take.


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## coke813

terrapro;2119763 said:


> Aaaannnnd so how do you safely put a higher pressure in a tire to handle the load better?.......
> You replace it with a higher rated tire that may not be recommended by the manufacturer, so that would mean you should go ahead and follow the recommended pressure on the tire!


The answer is you put a slightly higher pressure in the tire. like 5 psi. not 50.
you don't need to go up a whole load rating tire for 500 extra pounds.

again, for the guy's jeep who started this mess, he does not need to change his stock tires which should be load range C. but if you are driving a 1 ton truck or a dually dump box, go for the E's.

Are you suggesting someone change their tires to different load ratings for summer vs. winter driving (with/ without a plow)?

Also the tire does not tell you the recommended pressure, it tells you the MAX allowable pressure. There's a big difference.


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## terrapro

coke813;2119771 said:


> The answer is you put a slightly higher pressure in the tire. like 5 psi. not 50.
> you don't need to go up a whole load rating tire for 500 extra pounds.
> 
> again, for the guy's jeep who started this mess, he does not need to change his stock tires which should be load range C. but if you are driving a 1 ton truck or a dually dump box, go for the E's.
> 
> Are you suggesting someone change their tires to different load ratings for summer vs. winter driving (with/ without a plow)?
> 
> Also the tire does not tell you the recommended pressure, it tells you the MAX allowable pressure. There's a big difference.


You would put 5lbs higher pressure in a tire then max recommended? Going up a load rating is much safer then over inflating a tire to dangerous psi that is was not intended to be at. 
If you are running a 700lb plow and you have a couple hundred or more ballast you don't think running a higher rated tire is a good idea?


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## coke813

terrapro;2119785 said:


> You would put 5lbs higher pressure in a tire then max recommended? Going up a load rating is much safer then over inflating a tire to dangerous psi that is was not intended to be at.
> If you are running a 700lb plow and you have a couple hundred or more ballast you don't think running a higher rated tire is a good idea?


I never said 5 psi above the max rating. I mean 5 psi above what your door jam says.
The weight of a Plow + counter weight should keep you under the gross vehicle weight rating. So the stock tires should still be plenty safe. There is nothing wrong with you paying for a higher rated tire, but I don't think it's necessary.


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## jasonv

terrapro;2119763 said:


> Aaaannnnd so how do you safely put a higher pressure in a tire to handle the load better?.......
> You replace it with a higher rated tire that may not be recommended by the manufacturer, *so that would mean you should go ahead and follow the recommended pressure on the tire!*
> 
> This is such a  conversation!
> I just don't want someone coming here reading this then loading there E loads to 50 psi because the door jam says so.
> Think of what a DOT officer would say, hmm wonder how that would go lol? "Heres your tickets for running your tires 30psi below the rating, oh and here is your overload ticket"....."but but but the door jam said I should run less psi!"


We are talking about going up from 30 psi to 35 on tires with a max of over 50. You don't need to switch to E's to bump up to 35 psi.


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## coke813

I was thinking about this and wanted to post some numbers and see if anybody responds.
the following data is from my Silverado 1500.
The FAWR is 3950 lbs. Lets assume with my western HTS plow, I am at the full weight, or 1975 lbs per tire.
My stock tires are P265\65R18 112T which have a max load stamped on the sidewall of: 2469 lbs.
In other words the tires are only loaded to 80% of their max capacity.

So here's my question: if I am already at the MAX axle weight for the front end, and my tires are each about 500 lbs below their max load rating, why would I need to buy new tires at a higher rating? if I ever load the truck beyond this level I am over the weight that the truck was designed for.

if I apply the same percentage and multiply my tire's max psi (51) x 80% = about 41 psi, which happens to be 6 psi above what my door jamb says: 35 psi.

So even though I don't fill my tires to 41psi, I make sure they are at least at or above 35 at all times.

I assume that HD & commercial trucks have the same phenomenon- the stock tires can carry more weight than the axles are designed for. Am I right?? So if there are any rebuttals, I would like to hear your axle rating and stock tire ratings for comparison. If you have installed any higher capacity tires than stock, that was your choice and it doesn't really apply to this discussion.
Have a good day:waving:


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## jasonv

BUFF;2119753 said:


> You can run whatever tire you want on your vehicle, you want overkill and pay for it you go right a head.


Do you even bother reading before spewing this drivel? The E's COST LESS than C's.



> As far as snow rated tires go they are available in just aboot every tire size for passenger vehicles, SUV's and pickups. I would have thought being an expert in everything under the sun you would be aware of this.


I've already shown you that this is not the case. You want to get winter rated tires in goodyear all-terrain adventure? You MUST get the E's.


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## jasonv

coke813;2120008 said:


> I was thinking about this and wanted to post some numbers and see if anybody responds.
> the following data is from my Silverado 1500.
> The FAWR is 3950 lbs. Lets assume with my western HTS plow, I am at the full weight, or 1975 lbs per tire.
> My stock tires are P265\65R18 112T which have a max load stamped on the sidewall of: 2469 lbs.
> In other words the tires are only loaded to 80% of their max capacity.
> 
> So here's my question: if I am already at the MAX axle weight for the front end, and my tires are each about 500 lbs below their max load rating, why would I need to buy new tires at a higher rating? if I ever load the truck beyond this level I am over the weight that the truck was designed for.


You don't need to buy tougher tires. But you can if you want for potential reasons I've suggested; lower cost of ownership, increased puncture resistance, winter rating.



> if I apply the same percentage and multiply my tire's max psi (51) x 80% = about 41 psi, which happens to be 6 psi above what my door jamb says: 35 psi.
> 
> So even though I don't fill my tires to 41psi, I make sure they are at least at or above 35 at all times.


It doesn't quite work that way -- the calculation isn't linear. Best way to get the right number is to look it up in one of the charts that have been linked to in this thread. Way I usually figure it is that 5psi should be a reasonable bump over the door sticker.



> I assume that HD & commercial trucks have the same phenomenon- the stock tires can carry more weight than the axles are designed for. Am I right?? So if there are any rebuttals, I would like to hear your axle rating and stock tire ratings for comparison. If you have installed any higher capacity tires than stock, that was your choice and it doesn't really apply to this discussion.
> Have a good day:waving:


Yes absolutely! All vehicles should have their tire pressure adjusted for the load they are carrying. In practice, most people do not. In reality, the front on most vehicles is relatively static and can go by the door sticker, but the back varies wildly. In the very least, the majority of control is through the front, so having the front tires inflated correctly is more important than the back... ***except in the case of some AWD cars, which can be VERY sensitive to having matching circumferences***.

So... mine. FGAWR 2747 pounds (near as I can tell, Toyota doesn't actually publish this number.
Stock tires Dunlop AT20 P247/75R16 with max load 2271, but on a truck application, passenger tires lose 9%, so 2066# per tire, total 4132, which is substantially greater than 2747.

Of course, those Dunflop tires are genuinely crap. Literally the cheapest thing you can find in that size. UTQG of 300BB. While the replacement E's don't have a UTQG (probably something to do with truck loads), the C's do, and its 640AB, means better traction and more than double the life. In fact, with the E's extra tread depth, probably can extrapolate about 800AB.


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## Mark Oomkes

www.writeabook.com


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## BUFF

jasonv;2120009 said:


> Do you even bother reading before spewing this drivel? The E's COST LESS than C's.


Might want to back off the Poutine the cholesterol in it is affecting the blood flow to your brain.

Same tire, same size just different load rating, "E's" are $10.00USD more. Oh and they're both winter rated too.....

.


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## coke813

Buff,
while you are correct in saying each individual tire costs more, the total cost of ownership is less because you get 25% more tread life. go back and re-read post #56.

"So at a base price of $177, plus bumping the tread life by 25%, that gives it an equivalent dollar value of 1.25 * 177 = $221.25, yet the price of the load range "E" version is $205. So economically, the E's make more sense."


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## jasonv

coke813;2120075 said:


> Buff,
> while you are correct in saying each individual tire costs more, the total cost of ownership is less because you get 25% more tread life. go back and re-read post #56.
> 
> "So at a base price of $177, plus bumping the tread life by 25%, that gives it an equivalent dollar value of 1.25 * 177 = $221.25, yet the price of the load range "E" version is $205. So economically, the E's make more sense."


He is actually looking at a different style of tire -- mudders. Guess he likes howlers. Of course you need to look at the target tires on a case-by-case basis. You certainly don't pick the mudder C's when you need a work truck tire.

I, in fact, NEVER said that ALL E's cost less than their equivalent C. I said that there is a POTENTIAL for it, depending on the full set of characteristics of that tire.

In any event, Buff went to all that trouble to make pictures when LINKS would be easier and more useful, in order to accomplish nothing. I mean, trying so hard to find a single example that he could throw at me to say "NO, YOU ARE WRONG", when all I said was "sometimes this is what you get". In order to actually prove me wrong, he would actually have to prove that you NEVER have a lower TCO by stepping up to the E's. I.e., EVERY tire model.

Actually, one interesting thing about the tires he used to "prove me wrong", is that of those that DO have a UTQG rating, it will be either 320AB ("not rated for severe snow") or 500BB. Which means that despite the additional tread depth, the blockyness or possibly composition, lead to LOWER tread life, AND, the first "B" in "BB" also means lower TRACTION on wet or slippery surfaces compared to the 640AB or (extrapolated) 800AB tires I suggested. So if you feel like taking a ride down the road to TCO, with $205 for 800AB, it translates to a value of only $128 per tire ($205/800*500) for the 500BB's when compared to the "all-terrain adventure E's". I.e., the 500BB's will have to be replaced after only 5/8ths the mileage that 800AB's will last for.

*** What that tells me: Buff sees the big lugs and lower "entry" cost and starts drooling, but forgets to calculate the TCO, or to think about the ACTUAL traction in work conditions. I mean after all, we are talking about plow trucks here, not offroad mudding.


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## BUFF

coke813;2120075 said:


> Buff,
> while you are correct in saying each individual tire costs more, the total cost of ownership is less because you get 25% more tread life. go back and re-read post #56.
> 
> "So at a base price of $177, plus bumping the tread life by 25%, that gives it an equivalent dollar value of 1.25 * 177 = $221.25, yet the price of the load range "E" version is $205. So economically, the E's make more sense."


Not every tire increases tread depth when going from a "C" to "E" rating.
Blanket statements in post #56 generalize facts and give's misleading information.


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## 1olddogtwo

What should my spare tire be set at ?


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## SnoFarmer

1olddogtwo;2120084 said:


> What should my spare tire be set at ?


What do you want it at?
i inflate mine 5psi under the max psi stamped on the sidewall of the tire.
Its easier to let some oot that to put more in.

but you can do what ever ya want,
remove it and add extra fuel tank...


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## SnoFarmer

jasonv;2119720 said:


> Plus add to that the fact that the E's are severe snow rated (mountain+snowflake symbol) and the C's (or whatever they are) are NOT, means that in a lot of places, you even get an insurance discount for having them.
> .


(Pro-Grade tires meet the industry's severe snow service rating.)
http://tires.tirerack.com/tires/Load Range C


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## jasonv

BUFF;2120079 said:


> Not every tire increases tread depth when going from a "C" to "E" rating.
> Blanket statements in post #56 generalize facts and give's misleading information.


Show me where in #56 was a blanket statement.
Try, REAAAAALLLLL hard.

In fact, mentioning a SPECIFIC tire does IN NO WAY create a blanket statement.


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## Mark Oomkes

jasonv, could you extol the virtues of nitrogen in my tyres vs "normal" aire?


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## jasonv

SnoFarmer;2120090 said:


> (Pro-Grade tires meet the industry's severe snow service rating.)


That's the second time you've said that, first time I wasn't sure that you were responding to me or just making a statement in general (since the statement doesn't conflict with what I said). Are you trying to get at something?


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## jasonv

Mark Oomkes;2120094 said:


> jasonv, could you extol the virtues of nitrogen in my tyres vs "normal" aire?


Air is 78% nitrogen.


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## terrapro

I thought all Canadians were nice?


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## Mark Oomkes

jasonv;2120099 said:


> Air is 78% nitrogen.


I know that, so what are the virtues of using all nitrogen?


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## jasonv

terrapro;2120101 said:


> I thought all Canadians were nice?


WHO ARE YOU CALLING A CANADIAN, eh?

tymusic


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## jasonv

Mark Oomkes;2120103 said:


> I know that, so what are the virtues of using all nitrogen?


You support the local economy by providing revenue to the people who fill nitrogen bottles?


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## Mike_PS

well, some still need to learn how to ignore another member or NOT respond at all, rather than, continue baiting, trolling and going after each other.

either way, closing this one out...time for some to move on, and away, from each others postings and comments

thanks :waving:


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