# Western Pivot bolt....how bad is this?



## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Is this pivot bolt hole (or what's left of it) beyond repair? Can I weld a piece of flat bar to the front and drill a new hole? Looking for some options here. Thank you!


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Looks not to good, but the picture is not that good. Take it apart and see what you have. What kinda welder you have?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Kinda looks like it's broken off.
How handy are you with a welder as asked above


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Remember you aint gonna get a puddle on rust. What machines do you have. Looks like a bushing needs to be machined first and then that welded in. I did a repin post on my diamond, yes I know different animal but the bushing concept is there.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

That looks like an old repair that broke out.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Your A frame may look like this.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

So I took apart the plow a little bit further today. Had to cut off all the bolts as they were frozen on after penetrating oil, a torch and impact wrench.

Looks like the bushings are rotted right out and the holes have either elongated or rusted out.

I'm thinking of welding a piece of 1/8 steel plate to the side where the hole has completely rusted out. Drill a new hole in that plate and install a new 1" bushing. Once I do that, how tight should the new pivot bolt be when I put it all back together?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

That plow looks rotten...

Not sure how long your repair is going to last. You might need to look into a couple new parts...


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Philbilly2 said:


> That plow looks rotten...
> 
> Not sure how long your repair is going to last. You might need to look into a couple new parts...


What parts would you be referring to?

The pictures look pretty bad, I know. In person it's really a lot of surface rust and flaking paint. As soon as I hit some spots with the grinder it cleans up decently. Didn't see any rot as I looked it over.

I am not plowing a ton, about 10 driveways.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)




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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Looks deeper than surface to me in the pricture but I could be wrong too. When the metal starts pitting, that is a sign of rotten to come shortly typically.


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## mpriester (Oct 2, 2011)

If it was me and i didn't want to buy a new a frame i would replace the square tubing and have a machine shop make me a bushing with 1/4" thick walls, then weld the new bushing in. This way there is no guessing on how weak and rotted the inside of the tubing is and it should last several years.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

mpriester said:


> If it was me and i didn't want to buy a new a frame i would replace the square tubing and have a machine shop make me a bushing with 1/4" thick walls, then weld the new bushing in. This way there is no guessing on how weak and rotted the inside of the tubing is and it should last several years.


You read my mind. Already ordered a 1/4" thick bushing. I know the one side of the pivot is removable and replaceable. The piece on the A frame is not. Are you suggesting cut out the part of the a-frame with a grinder (or however) and weld in a new piece of tubular steel, drill it and weld in bushing?

Probably much cheaper since I am able to weld and the bushing only cost $29...


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Nji911 said:


> You read my mind. Already ordered a 1/4" thick bushing. I know the one side of the pivot is removable and replaceable. The piece on the A frame is not. Are you suggesting cut out the part of the a-frame with a grinder (or however) and weld in a new piece of tubular steel, drill it and weld in bushing?
> 
> Probably much cheaper since I am able to weld and the bushing only cost $29...


Anything can be fixed. You have to weigh the pros and cons of fixings vs new parts. Usually longevity and costs come in to the major factors. Here is what I did. This may or may not give you some ideas.

https://www.plowsite.com/threads/old-diamond-plow-wobble-redoing-pin-holes.163838/#post-2084509


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Philbilly2 said:


> View attachment 173327


I understand what you mean. Alot of that is flaking paint but yes some minor pitting. Almost all of it cleans up like the metal around the hole.

I appreciate your input.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

That's a different part than I thought. They rotted from the inside out. The lift frame may be rotted also. You never said what welding equipment you have.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Randall Ave said:


> That's a different part than I thought. They rotted from the inside out. The lift frame may be rotted also. You never said what welding equipment you have.


I have a Miller 175 welder and a smaller 110v flux core.


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## mpriester (Oct 2, 2011)

Nji911 said:


> You read my mind. Already ordered a 1/4" thick bushing. I know the one side of the pivot is removable and replaceable. The piece on the A frame is not. Are you suggesting cut out the part of the a-frame with a grinder (or however) and weld in a new piece of tubular steel, drill it and weld in bushing?
> 
> Probably much cheaper since I am able to weld and the bushing only cost $29...


Yes. I would cutout the square tubing at the welds and replace it.


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## mpriester (Oct 2, 2011)

Nji911 said:


> I have a Miller 175 welder and a smaller 110v flux core.


I would use the 175 or borrow a buzz box and run 7018 rods.


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## mpriester (Oct 2, 2011)

Nji911 said:


> You read my mind. Already ordered a 1/4" thick bushing. I know the one side of the pivot is removable and replaceable. The piece on the A frame is not. Are you suggesting cut out the part of the a-frame with a grinder (or however) and weld in a new piece of tubular steel, drill it and weld in bushing?
> 
> Probably much cheaper since I am able to weld and the bushing only cost $29...


Yes. cut the tubing out at the welds and replace it.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Once you get that squared away the pivot bolt should be as tight as possible while still allowing the aframe to turn so it can follow uneven pavement.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Western1 said:


> Once you get that squared away the pivot bolt should be as tight as possible while still allowing the aframe to turn so it can follow uneven pavement.


Someone told me 65ftlbs minus one and a half turns. Does that sound right?


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Sounds about right. I just do it so it can pivot.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

W


Western1 said:


> Sounds about right. I just do it so it can pivot.


When you say pivot, how much travel are you talking? When all said and done, tightened up, there doesn't seem like there will be much play in there at all.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

When it's all assembled, it will only move so far in either direction. Tighten it up to where it will not move. Then back it off till it just moves.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

I will document my repair here in this thread. That way if anyone has this same issue in the future they can have some reference and guidance.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

This is what I did today. Seems very solid. Ordered bushings and will weld them in when they come in. Thanks for the help and advice guys!


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## fireside (Mar 1, 2008)

If you have sone extra time you may want to grind out some of the welds. They look very poor. Looks like you are using flux core wire and need more heat.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

fireside said:


> If you have sone extra time you may want to grind out some of the welds. They look very poor. Looks like you are using flux core wire and need more heat.


Used my lincoln 110v flux, didn't have my other one at the house. Don't look the greatest but I gave them a couple good wacks with the sledge and they are solid. May go back over them at some point.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Nji911 said:


> I will document my repair here in this thread. That way if anyone has this same issue in the future they can have some reference and guidance.


Just noticed, where are you in Jersey?


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Randall Ave said:


> Just noticed, where are you in Jersey?


I am in Upstate, NY, Rochester area.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

OK.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

110v welders should not be used in any of these situations. Period.


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## mpriester (Oct 2, 2011)

Nji911 said:


> This is what I did today. Seems very solid. Ordered bushings and will weld them in when they come in. Thanks for the help and advice guys!
> View attachment 173348
> View attachment 173347


I wouldn't trust it as there are too many holes in the welds and penetration is poor. You need more heat for better penetration. Please don't take this the wrong way, I just don't want to see an accident due to a weak weld.


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## Nji911 (Sep 12, 2017)

Just wanted to give an update. Three months of heavy plowing and this has held up great. No breaks, cracks, etc. I may upgrade the welds on the off season, but so far this has held up to 30+ account in a fairly heavy winter. If anyone is interested in a closer step by step fix, please let me know and I can post.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Sweet!


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