# 24/25 series sno-way wiring help



## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

I have a 25 series snow plow and I have the wiring diagram and cant seem to power to the plow. I hooked it all up tested the plow and raised it, moved it from side to side one and it quit. I tested the solenoid and found that one post had 30 amps going to it, zero to the other post. I replaced the solenoid and its the same old song and dance, 30 on one post, zero to the other.  There are no inline fuses (despite what sno-way website says). I bought this plow used and it was in working order when it was removed from the first truck. Im stummped and frankly, not even sure if i have it wired up all the way or have all the peices to the wiring harness :realmad:. Some pictures of what the harness should look like on this series plow or any imput would be very helpful. Also my local sno-way dealer is worthless, he told me it was a 25 series, it measures 24 3/4" tall.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

I forgot to mention that when the plow moved the battery got drained in about 45 second to one minute because the pump was running


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## festerw (Sep 25, 2003)

Any tag on the a-frame with a model number #?


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Your dealer was right you just have a blade with an 1/4 inch worn off. Try these manuals for instructions on how to wire it properly. You probably have it wired wrong if it worked on the previous vehicle

http://www.snoway.com/service/Parts Manuals/97100204j.pdf

http://www.snoway.com/service/Setup_Installation/97100201E.pdf

http://www.snoway.com/service/Fenner Repair/97100036A.pdf.


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

Just to get an understanding of what you have: You have "30 amps" to the big stud on the motor solonoid, or to the small stud. I'm not sure why you are measuring amps, or how, most people would measure voltage. Does your plow have a hard wired joystick, or rocker switches, or a remote? If it's hard wired, start tracing the voltage from where you tapped into the fuseblock towards the controls. Is the motor solonoid clicking when you activate the plow? Is there power going to the motor solonoid from the controls (small wire). Barring the light system wiring, there isn't much to the plow wiring. The snoway website has wiring diagrams for all their plows, you do need the model number. There should be a tag on the a frame. If your plow has down pressure, there will be an extra toggle switch on your contols and a "D" on your model number. There will be two wire looms going to the controls. 

The more info you can provide, and pics, the better.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

My bad translation on power to the Solenoid. It was voltages that was measured (I didn't do it).

The plow doesn't have any serial tag on it. Its been completely refirbushed, paint, new blade skin, hoses. The Harnesses unfortunately are the original.

Thanks to basher for the files! We have been all over the snow way sites and google and couldn't find the specific information for the 25 series.

This is what we have:
25 series with the hard wired joy stick. We temporarily hooked up the electrical to the plow based on some best guesses based on other schematics. When we put the red power cable to the battery the plow cylinders started to move (the joy stick was locked in position). We noticed fluid leaking out of one of the lines that was not screwed on all the way. 

In a quick few the battery went dead, installed a new battery, hooked everything back up and haven't seen power on the plow side of the solenoid. 

The only two wire we hadn't hooked up was the ignition red and black wires coming from the joy stick cause we didn't know exactly how they were to be mounted.

The plow was getting power without the red and black ignition wires hooked up prior but can't seem to figure out why no power know. Thought maybe we blew something since we put power to the unit and the plow was activated to move.

The solenoid we replace was not the exact same part number but is 12V 4 post. 

I will try and get some pics posted tomorrow.

Thanks for everyones help. We are not new to plowing but OBVIOUSLY rookies at installing.


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

Hey Pro, don't lose hope. I have worked through a ton of problems with the help of this site. One more item to clarify. If your plow has down pressure it will have a toggle switch on the controls. That switch turns the down pressure on, not the whole plow. It will also have a red light on the controls. Let me know if the switch and light are on the controls. Then we can go through the wiring and see if you have everything going where it should.


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

Pro,

One more question. When you tested the plow the first time, it drained the battery on your truck in under a minute? That doesn't seem possible. Was the plow motor running even when you weren't operating the joy stick? Did anything get hot, or smoke. I had a short in my wire harness once and did burn up some wire, and some components in the joystick. That was a nightmare, the fuse that was supposed to be on the power feed was not in place ( I bought the truck and plow as a unit). Make sure your feed is fused before you even test anything. Probably should have started my replies with that advice.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

T-sig, 
I do have the down pressure feature. The light currently doesnt come on but I havent tried any of these suggestions yet, I plan to later today. The hydraulic motor runs continuously when we had power to the plow, i believe. We have been working on it for three days trying to nail down the problem so its all a bit fuzzy. I have to go get the inline fuse that plugs into the fuse box today then I will try to wire it all up. I have a three peice mount that goes under the silverado. A quick glance at the frame last night didnt yeild any clues so Im hoping some of those pdf files (thanks again Basher) will give me a hint.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

Forgot to mention that the joy stick was locked engaged when we put power to the solenoid is why the plow moved when we put power to the solenoid.


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

procarry21;1001207 said:


> Forgot to mention that the joy stick was locked engaged when we put power to the solenoid is why the plow moved when we put power to the solenoid.


Good info, the joystick will only lock in the down position. If the motor was running, that means the down pressure switch was engaged. If you flip the toggle switch the other way, it will be in the gravity down setting and nothing should run unless you try to lift it or move it side to side.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

Still struggling with the power to the plow or I should say joy stick. Here is what I did tonight.....

I wired the red/black coming from the joy stick to the 10 amp fuse box and grounded the black wire running with it per the schematics. I had previously not wired this because wasn't sure where they went. Still no power to the joy stick- no light-no movement.

I jumped the solenoid with a screw driver and the plow moved fine so think all is well on that end.

I checked continuinty to each wire from the joy stick plug harness to the where it hooks into the plow harness and all seemed to check out good. 

I haven't checked out the wiring in the joy stick itself, it sure seems like the problem is getting power to the joy stick.


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

Pro,

It sounds like you are on the right track. The red/black wire should carry 12 volts to the joystick. I would start testing for 12 volts from where you tied into your truck electric and follow it back to the joy stick. Make sure you have 12 volts though. I think some of the empty spaces in the under dash fuse block are lower voltage... It is unlikely that anything in the joystick itself is damaged. There are diodes and micro switches in the joystick that can go bad or get fried, but, even then, some of the plow functions usually work. For whatever reason, it just sounds like you aren't getting power, or, full power to the joystick.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Check for a broken wire in the loom. start at the harness clamp where the harness enters the control. and do the control power and ground wire first. A quick continuity check on the red/black and black wire are in order. a proper ground is as important as a strong 12 volts. Be sure to attach to a keyed circuit so you don't drain your battery if you forget and leave it in float at the end of a 48 hour day. 

Oh and make sure the bulb for the DP in the control is not burned out. that could change a bunch of things.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks for the input basher and t-sig.

I checked the joystick diodes, wiring, and light today and all is good. Put 12 volts on the pins with the toggle switch on and the light worked.

I used an adapter to plug into and existing fuse slot (used the one for the radio). I plan on checking the voltage coming out. make sure I am getting 12v, then start looking at all the connections. Now that I know the joy stick is good, I am hoping to find the bad link!

Thanks for all your help, snow drifing like crap and still having to use my beater with now reverse ,cracked block, and rusty leaking gas tank. Deep skills to plow with this beast.


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## procarry21 (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks to everybody for there advice and help. Got the truck wired last night. The problem was right at the fuse box as you guys mentioned it might be. Was not gettting 12 volts. The wire had an open right at the fuse location! Think when the wire was not installed and straight it made contact and continuity checked ok.

Anyway, everything looks good, Thanks much.

procarry21
Snow way 25
1999 Siveraldo


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Good deal. Glad it's working now its time to make a little payup


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

Glad to help! I have had 2 snoways and have no real complaints. The down pressure is a great feature if you have snow pack to scrape, or, if you are back dragging. If you haven't, you may want to read through some of the chevy truck forum. If your truck isn't a "plow prep" you may want to upgrade the front suspension and the alternator. 500 pounds of ballast at the tailgate is good too. The front of my 2000 Silv. dropped pretty good the plow on.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

t-sig;1003499 said:


> The front of my 2000 Silv. dropped pretty good the plow on.


Yeah a crank or two on the T-bars and a set of timberns is a must on any Chevy, plow prep or not.


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## CMU07 (Sep 29, 2009)

I'm having pretty much the same problem. Was plowing and the plow wouldn't move (up left or right). Got it up and back to the shop. The solenoid just clicks but I'm gettin nothing from the plow. I'm not much for any electrical, but saw a bent terminal on the solenoid so I'm hoping that when the auto shops open I can grab a 12v 4 post. If it's not that I may be SOL, because I don't think I could run down wires like you guys.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

yes replace the 12volt motor solenoid. buy a good one, 150amp constant duty or better. If you can get a trombeta "Bear" 600amp constant duty pay the money you have to modify a little to install but it is well worth the time and price.


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## CMU07 (Sep 29, 2009)

thanks for the suggestion, ended up goin with the exact same one that came out. there arent a lot of options around here, closest dealer is 30miles away and I needed it quick! working again though!


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