# Ground up truck build, need input



## Scott R

Thanks for any feedback you may contribute.
I've been plowing for 20+ years with my 52 Dodge powerwagon, I run a full hydraulic system. Vickers vane pump under the hood ( 5 GPM ) 2-spool valve body, tank, etc. This has served me well for many years will little to no breakdowns. I built my plow from scratch, using a Fisher as my template, then beefing it up in many areas.
It's time to upgrade as my body is getting older and power steering, brakes and things like that are very attractive. After a 12-14 hr day in my old truck I can barly walk. 
My new rig I'm starting with is a 93 bronco. I have it down to just the frame and gas tank in my shop now. I'm installing 1-ton running gear from a superduty, I just built a 460 for high torque (not horse power). I'll mate a C-6 tranny and a 205 behind it. I'll be boxing the entire frame. I wanted a short wheel base as a do mostly residential accounts and I take on all the nasty driveways that pay top dollar along with all the others I do.
I'm at a point of having to decide weather to go full hydraulics again, or elect over hyd. like all the stock plows come. My current system is fast and strong. Better than the Blizzard and Fisher Wide out that I have plowed with belonging to my buddy. I have never had a light dim or a battery / alternater issue. Now, having said that, this build would go faster if I just pruchased a new power wing plow, wired it in and started plowing. I have also considered, buying a new power wing plow, pulling all the pump / valve body offit, selling it and plumbing in my own valves and running it off my full hyd. set up.
Given the choice, if you could set yourself up any way you wanted. What system would you choose and why ? I'll try and post a couple pics of my current set up and what I'm building now.
Thanks again for your thoughts.


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## scottr

The 460 I just finished


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## scottr

Current state of build


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## scottr

Pulling body off


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## Mark13

I'm having trouble remembering the guys name on here but he runs his wideout plows on a central hydraulic system he shares with his expanding wing pull plows. The videos of the wideouts look like they are scary fast.

Edit. Jon Geer.


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## Italiano67

Nice job on the 460! My advice would be to buy a new vplow with smartlocks ( I am partial to Boss). I just don't see the necessity of full hydraulics on a non salter rig. You will get a two year full warranty on anything that goes out with the plow but I don't foresee that happening. I would concentrate on the rigs creature comforts as you have been plowing old school for a long time and would appreciate plowing in a more modern comfy environment. make sure all of the basics are rebuilt or new ( alternator etc) and spend some time on having the interior redone just the way you want it. Make your longs days not seem so long riding around in styleThumbs Up.


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## bcramblit

scottr;1746843 said:


> Pulling body off


A build like this. You gotta do central hydros. As you mentioned the lights dimming drive me nuts. The power of centrals is a creature comfort in my opinion. The silent motion is another. The sound of elec. over makes me want to puke. If price is not a concern? Sounds like you know what your doing.


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## Scott R

*Mark*, I'll get a look at that video soon as I can, thanks
*67*, truth is, I don't have much call for a V-plow, I think Boss makes a great product, I just don't see drifting much where I'm at and good wings allow my to carry and stack pretty good. I'm looking forward to the creature comforts for sure.
bcramblit, Your right about the power of central Hyd. I do love that, price is being kept in check, however I want this done right so it's the best of both worlds, so I'm willing to pay for what I need on the front end. I've built many of systems and other plow rigs for customers. I'll post a couple of pics when I get time. I need to do more searching on others central hyd. systems so I can see how they did it.
BTW, the NOS bottle in my icon is my hydraulic tank on my 52 dodge.  Gets the kids fired up when thet see it 
thnaks


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## myzx6

Therrs nothing like plowing with a big block, I have a 496 in my truck, just as much power as a diesel and the exhaust sounds and smells much better. That bronco is gonna be a great pusher no matter what you decide for a plow set up. Is it gonna be a dedicated plow truck? What are your plans for rust prevention, I highly recommend por15. If you've never used it, it sticks better to rust then clean metal, 2 thick coats and you'll never worry about rust again. Looking forward to seeing your progress, I'm a Chevy guy but I've always loved the full-size bronco and anything with a gas big block and you have both in one!!


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## Kubota 8540

In years gone by having electric over hydraulic was a big battery drain. The newer pumps are much more efficient and use less electric. Also now days a 200 amp alternator is very reasonably priced for under $200. Or take your existing alternator to the local shop and have them bump it up. Run 2 batteries connected in parallel and all electric problems go away. Led amber strobes rather than halogen rotators = less drain. I don't see a need for a central hydraulic system on a non-salting rig. Electric over hydraulics are small and a isolated system which you can have a back up ready to bolt on in 10 minutes if necessary. Older and frame up build is the way to go.!


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## scottr

Myzx, rust here in Fairbanks is not a real issue (thankfully), so just painting the frame and parts with a good primer and paint will do fine. Yes this will be a dedicated plow rig. Here's some shots of the last one I built for a buddy.


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## scottr

Starting with a 12 valve dodge, cut frame off behind spring hangers


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## scottr

Welded in 600 lbs on ballast over rear wheels


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## scottr

Wiring and light check, rear recess if for the rear plow


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## scottr

Drivers side box holds the rear plow hydraulics, diesel fuel fill port


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## scottr

Passenger side box holds the big batt that runs both front and rear plows


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## scottr

Rig works awesome


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## Kevin_NJ

Can't help you with ideas on the build (nowhere near knowledgeable enough) but gotta say I'm drooling over the pics of your shop and work!

Edit to add:
How about pics of the '52?


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## scottr

My 52 dodge, I hope to retire it from plowing by next season


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## scottr

I pulled the stock flat head out and installed a 68' dodge 318. I tend to use the red and grey colors, I like the looks of the combo.Thumbs Up


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## Italiano67

From the looks of things we need to be the ones asking you questions. Are you going to add ballast to the Bronco?


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## Kevin_NJ

scottr;1747295 said:


> My 52 dodge, I hope to retire it from plowing by next season


Awesome. By retire I hope you mean truly retire, not scrap.


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## scottr

Yes, I'll add about 6-800 lbs to the Bronco for sure. Not a lot of room in the frame for this, I'll have to get creative. 
And yes, my 52 will live a long life and be scraped Thumbs Up, It's still a fun truck to drive around.


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## jpell

good, luck with the build, i'm definitely following just to enjoy, i probably wont be of much help input wise. great looking motor work by the way.


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## thelettuceman

Nice work. What are you going to do with the 52 Dodge?


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## scottr

Lettuce: I may sell it, I've had it for 20+ years! done a lot with it! good times for sure but time to move on.prsport


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## derekbroerse

That is a very clean Bronco! Southern truck?

Subscribed...


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## Tom c.

*Plow truck builds!!*

Not to get offtrack but what would be some of you're thoughts on be on a plow truck build!! I still see some k-5 blazers around. And had thought a late 70's or early 80's chevy standard cab short bed with a worked 350 or a big block lifted some. What would be you're ultimate plow truck??Thumbs Up


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## scottr

derek, Bronco came out of WA at one time, been in Alaska for some time now. Fortionetly things don't rust much up here.

Tom. Here's a few thoughts to answer your question. For me, the first thing I look at is what the majority of my account are like. Mine are residential, steep, curvy, and tight. So, the shortest wheel base I can find is my starting point. Knowing everything short is likely a 1/2 ton frame and running gear, I know I'm limited to how big of plow I can run. I like very big and heavy plows because I can get my jobs done faster. This forces me into what I'm doing now. Boxing my whole frame so it's very strong, installing 1-ton running gear. I also like the weight and torque of a diesel up front, but don't want the headachs and cost of a diesel, so the big block 460 will cover me in that reguard.
I think your idea of the chevy's of that year are on track, there everywhere, super cheep to rebuild and get parts anywhere. I think lifting a rig is OK if you need more clearance for taller tires, but keeping the CG as low as you can is better. Also, lifting to much and you need to modify plow mounts ( which is no big deal but should be considered) to keep the angle of attack correct on your blade.
These are just my thought and what works for me, not saying this is a good set up for everybody. Guy's doing big lots do great with long wheel based rigs. My statement on diesels is not a slam on those who use them, again, this is what works for me.
Thumbs Up


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## derekbroerse

My fav so far is my stroker truck. Also gets the best fuel mileage since it doesn't struggle so much. The '78 does well for most things but pulling its heavy arse (12k lbs approx loaded) up a half mile long steep hill is not its strong suit, being a '70s era smogger 350 (albeit a fresh motor, just gutless). 305 was also great for plowing, terrible on that hill....

Big cubes with small torque oriented low rpm camshaft is the way to go.


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## Rat_Power_78

Lovin the idea of a ground-up plow truck build and your old Power Wagon looks like a beast. Couple questions for you regarding the Dodge flatbed you built. What did you use for the weight? Anything specific or just whatever steel you could find that was heavy enough? Does it see any other use than plowing? I realize its a 3/4 or 1 ton, but did you opt to add any leaves to the suspension? 

On your Bronco project, have you given any thought to running a pickup cab on that frame? We run a couple K5 Blazers and while the short wheelbase is fantastic, the rear windows are constantly covered with snow and dirt. It gets real old having to get out and clean the window off constantly. The other downside I have found to running a Blazer/Bronco is heat-there never seems to be enough of it. I would guess the Bronco would be more sealed up and better insulated than your old Power Wagon, but maybe you had addressed that years ago? My Blazers are bad enough that I have a pickup cab ready to go on one of them this summer and I am looking for another.

Keep up the good work!


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## Italiano67

Good point on the heat issue. I can remember those Broncos to never warm up on cold days. I am sure you could remedy that with some reengineering but it is something to think about.


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## scottr

Rat: the dodge flatbed has stock 1ton susp. The weight is used grader blades. Between the 500 lbs of blades and the weight of the flatbed I added about 1500 lbs. it does great. It's a plow truck and that's all, plow only comes off for service. 
The Bronco will have the read cap pulled off, the rear area is already gutted. I'll build a new rear cab with a OEM style window so my vision will be very good. ( it's a lot of work but I enjoy the challenge ) Heat won't be an issue, the 460 will produce more than I will know what do do with My old 52 Dodge heats awesome, they had really small cabs back then and it's sprayed with urethane foam on the roof and rear of cab ( inside) even at -10F my window is down..
Thanks for the words of encouragement Thumbs Up


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## Rick547

Scottr, please keep posting the pictures of the build. It is a very interesting project I would like to follow.


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## Rat_Power_78

scottr;1748932 said:


> Rat: the dodge flatbed has stock 1ton susp. The weight is used grader blades.
> 
> 
> 
> I thought it might be something like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Bronco will have the read cap pulled off, the rear area is already gutted. I'll build a new rear cab with a OEM style window so my vision will be very good. ( it's a lot of work but I enjoy the challenge )
> 
> 
> 
> Back in high school I had an 87 Bronco the previous owner put a half cab conversion on. Im quite sure they arent made anymore, but a little google searching could find you some pictures for inspiration.
> 
> Not to derail the thread too much, but I would like to see more of your Power Wagon. Looks like quite a beast to plow with.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


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## framer1901

I gotta ask, what is that air/fuel system on that 460? I've never seen that. Flat out very cool and thought out purpose made equipment - you don't need advice here, but it is the internet and we all have opinions.

I don't like a carb, I like the feel good starting of fuel injection even with the reliance of the electronics for a gasser. A dumb old diesel might be the cats ass though. With that said, you've done this a day or two with that mopar, so you probably got that figured out to where it's a non issue.

The plow portion, central hydro any day over the elec/hydro. It's all mechanical, no electric gizmos to fail and with the fluid constantly flowing, no chance of freeze up. A spare pump, belt and cylinders on the shelf and if a problem occurs, you are back in business in 30 minutes. You'll spend half that time diagnossing what is wrong with elec over hydro set up.

Very cool stuff.


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## scottr

Rat: I'll try and dig up some more shots of my power wagon and it's set up.

Farmer: the intake on the 460 is stock EFI intake. It a 93' and is a speed density system not mass air so as a result one can only tweek it a little bit as it uses pre programmed values, where Mass air can learn new values such as more air or fuel. 
I hope to go with my hyd pump under the hood, but need to find a way to get into the valve body of one of the newer plows with power wings. Been trying to do a little research but haven't frond a lot yet.
BTW, I still need all the help I can get . I'm just an old guy still doing projects in my shop. There's a lot of great advise here Thumbs Up


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## framer1901

I've done a mustang or two with the speed density, definetly a trick to get them to work right, mass air was way easier. I thought it was something like that but couldn't see or tell fuel rails.

I haven't learned enough about hydro stuff yet, I know they make stackable flow thru valves that can be actuated mechanically or electronicly but you somehow have to be able to allow for cross over relief and even maybe adjust flow rate. That requires a big catalog to sit and gander thru. We got into it more with trying to control a salt spreader, I think it's Morse that makes a sweet control box for spreaders, same general idea as a plow.


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## aczlan

framer1901;1749175 said:


> I haven't learned enough about hydro stuff yet, I know they make stackable flow thru valves that can be actuated mechanically or electronicly but you somehow have to be able to allow for cross over relief and even maybe adjust flow rate. That requires a big catalog to sit and gander thru. We got into it more with trying to control a salt spreader, I think it's Morse that makes a sweet control box for spreaders, same general idea as a plow.


Some places to look:
Relief valves: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Relief-Cushion-Valves/
Solenoid Valves:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...PM-OC-DA-HYDRAFORCE-SOLENOID-VALVE-9-7987.axd (each valve can be placed in series with the others)
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...12-VDC-10-GPM-OC-DA-SOLENOID-VALVE-9-6136.axd (needs a subplate to mount to, but doesn't need hoses between the valves)
Flow control valves: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Flow-Control-Valves/ (for the blade hydraulics, you might just add a washer or use small (1/4"?) hoses)

Aaron Z


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## scottr

Aaron: thanks for the direction, funny thing, I have those same pages bookmarked. I ordered a lot of stuff from them in the past and have had good luck with it. One of the struggles with using these type of individual valve body's is the size you end up with when it's all done. What I would like to find is a complete machined valve body like the ones used on a blizzard, wideout, XLS, but, be able to just plumb my supply and return in and out of it. That would keep it small, retain the reliefs and actuation. I suspect the down side is these are not an " open center" type of body so keeping flow going all the time couldn't happen. I don't know this for sure yet, just my guess. Anybody know if this has been done?


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## derekbroerse

Rat_Power_78;1748890 said:


> On your Bronco project, have you given any thought to running a pickup cab on that frame? We run a couple K5 Blazers and while the short wheelbase is fantastic, the rear windows are constantly covered with snow and dirt. It gets real old having to get out and clean the window off constantly. The other downside I have found to running a Blazer/Bronco is heat-there never seems to be enough of it. I would guess the Bronco would be more sealed up and better insulated than your old Power Wagon, but maybe you had addressed that years ago? My Blazers are bad enough that I have a pickup cab ready to go on one of them this summer and I am looking for another.


Just wondered if you ever tried to rectify any of these issues. Old station wagons used to run a little air-foil wanna-be spoiler over the rear window to break up the air currents and keep the window clean. Did you ever consider adding a rear wiper/washer assembly to the tailgate? I'm sure something could be made to fit. As for heat, Suburbans had optional (I think) rear heaters that could probably be slipped in, or easier still would be a little self contained heater like you would add to a skid steer cab, just run some pipes along the frame and tie into your heater hoses...

I sure wouldn't tolerate those problems, as much as I love those trucks I would do whatever it takes to make it work the way I want...


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## Rat_Power_78

derekbroerse;1749689 said:


> Just wondered if you ever tried to rectify any of these issues. Old station wagons used to run a little air-foil wanna-be spoiler over the rear window to break up the air currents and keep the window clean. Did you ever consider adding a rear wiper/washer assembly to the tailgate? I'm sure something could be made to fit. As for heat, Suburbans had optional (I think) rear heaters that could probably be slipped in, or easier still would be a little self contained heater like you would add to a skid steer cab, just run some pipes along the frame and tie into your heater hoses...
> 
> I sure wouldn't tolerate those problems, as much as I love those trucks I would do whatever it takes to make it work the way I want...


The short answer is no. A stock K5 doesn't fit my needs well enough to justify the time and effort. Now for the long answer...

I have seen some of these with the air-foil on the rear and people claim they work but I have no personal experience with them. Part of the problem is wet, sloppy melty days where you get this nasty mix of moisture and crud coating the rear and side windows. I have considered adding a wiper to the rear and I think I would go that direction if I felt retaining the extra interior space was the best thing for my operation. Part of the problem with a wiper is the way the window rolls down into the tailgate. Im sure there would be a way around it but I never have put enough thought into how to make it work. 
Best thing to do would be to stare at it next to something with a rear wiper over a few frosty beverages.

As for heat, as long as you keep the doors shut they will warm up acceptably after a while, they just dont recover as fast when you are in and out like the regular cab pickups I'm used to. An add-on heater or extra ducting would work great I would guess, but I wonder how much heat the lines would loose if you went the add-on route. They could be routed creatively, and insulated I would think.

The real issue I think with my particular Blazers is they are not very well sealed and have little to no insulation. Both of mine are CUCVs with barely a rubber mat on the floor. The one that will be getting a pickup cab has enough rust holes in the rear seat area that you get quite a bit of cold coming in that way. The other one is much more solid and as I said above, will heat up as long as you are not in and out a lot.

All of this would be very fixable and a lot less work than swapping on a pickup cab, but for the work we are doing, overall keeping the Blazers a Blazer is not the best option. Most often there is only one guy in the truck, sometimes two. Very rarely do I have more than two people riding in one truck, so the extra seating is not necessary. If I were routinely using them as people movers I would have taken care of it by now. It is very difficult to get a snow blower into the back of them, and unfortunately we need to be able to do that. Sticking a shovel in the back seat gets old too. I bought my first Blazer in the fall of 2011 as an experiment to see how I liked the short wheelbase and to take the place of my 76 K20 while it was down for a rebuild. The other one just kinda happened by chance at the end of last season. I have very little into either of them and mechanically they are solid. I feel because of this I can justify the time and expense to set them up the way they will work for me. I have intended to change them both over since day one, I just havent had all the pieces until recently. Maybe I'm just too used to pickups. If the short wheelbase of the blazers wasnt so beneficial to many of the sites we do, I would just run pickups and not make extra work for myself. Unfortunately I am of the mindset that everything I use needs to be re-engineered and custom built to fit the application. I just cant seem to leave well enough alone. Oh well, keeps me out of trouble.Thumbs Up


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## bigmackmiller

Sweet love both the trucks!


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## derekbroerse

Rat_Power_78;1750044 said:


> The short answer is no. A stock K5 doesn't fit my needs well enough to justify the time and effort. Now for the long answer...
> 
> I have seen some of these with the air-foil on the rear and people claim they work but I have no personal experience with them. Part of the problem is wet, sloppy melty days where you get this nasty mix of moisture and crud coating the rear and side windows. I have considered adding a wiper to the rear and I think I would go that direction if I felt retaining the extra interior space was the best thing for my operation. Part of the problem with a wiper is the way the window rolls down into the tailgate. Im sure there would be a way around it but I never have put enough thought into how to make it work.
> Best thing to do would be to stare at it next to something with a rear wiper over a few frosty beverages.
> 
> As for heat, as long as you keep the doors shut they will warm up acceptably after a while, they just dont recover as fast when you are in and out like the regular cab pickups I'm used to. An add-on heater or extra ducting would work great I would guess, but I wonder how much heat the lines would loose if you went the add-on route. They could be routed creatively, and insulated I would think.
> 
> The real issue I think with my particular Blazers is they are not very well sealed and have little to no insulation. Both of mine are CUCVs with barely a rubber mat on the floor. The one that will be getting a pickup cab has enough rust holes in the rear seat area that you get quite a bit of cold coming in that way. The other one is much more solid and as I said above, will heat up as long as you are not in and out a lot.
> 
> All of this would be very fixable and a lot less work than swapping on a pickup cab, but for the work we are doing, overall keeping the Blazers a Blazer is not the best option. Most often there is only one guy in the truck, sometimes two. Very rarely do I have more than two people riding in one truck, so the extra seating is not necessary. If I were routinely using them as people movers I would have taken care of it by now. It is very difficult to get a snow blower into the back of them, and unfortunately we need to be able to do that. Sticking a shovel in the back seat gets old too. I bought my first Blazer in the fall of 2011 as an experiment to see how I liked the short wheelbase and to take the place of my 76 K20 while it was down for a rebuild. The other one just kinda happened by chance at the end of last season. I have very little into either of them and mechanically they are solid. I feel because of this I can justify the time and expense to set them up the way they will work for me. I have intended to change them both over since day one, I just havent had all the pieces until recently. Maybe I'm just too used to pickups. If the short wheelbase of the blazers wasnt so beneficial to many of the sites we do, I would just run pickups and not make extra work for myself. Unfortunately I am of the mindset that everything I use needs to be re-engineered and custom built to fit the application. I just cant seem to leave well enough alone. Oh well, keeps me out of trouble.Thumbs Up


Fair enough. I always figured one of them would be great for residential work, or a sidewalk-and-touchup vehicle... there are few things more annoying (and cold) than having to dig thru the snow in the back of a pickup for one lousy bag of ice melter to do a sidewalk somewhere, immediately soaking gloves etc. whereas I think a single stage snowblower, bags etc, would go nicely in the back and could be left in and locked even if the truck is parked outside. It could still carry a plow (unlike a cube van) and a swing-away style tailgate salter. Again, all depends on your needs I guess.

My K30s, especially the '78, are bare-bones strippers. I'm considering spray foaming the cavity between the roof and inner structure steel. Its always cold in that one, but I think the heater core box is blocked up with mouse nest (as little tufts come out of the defroster ducts once in a while lol) as there is nowhere near as much air flow as I expect.

As for heat loss with a rear heater's lines, how do they do it with a school bus with the heater under the back seat? I'd bet on pipe insulation.


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## Rat_Power_78

derekbroerse;1750388 said:


> Fair enough. I always figured one of them would be great for residential work, or a sidewalk-and-touchup vehicle... there are few things more annoying (and cold) than having to dig thru the snow in the back of a pickup for one lousy bag of ice melter to do a sidewalk somewhere, immediately soaking gloves etc. whereas I think a single stage snowblower, bags etc, would go nicely in the back and could be left in and locked even if the truck is parked outside. It could still carry a plow (unlike a cube van) and a swing-away style tailgate salter. Again, all depends on your needs I guess.
> 
> My K30s, especially the '78, are bare-bones strippers. I'm considering spray foaming the cavity between the roof and inner structure steel. Its always cold in that one, but I think the heater core box is blocked up with mouse nest (as little tufts come out of the defroster ducts once in a while lol) as there is nowhere near as much air flow as I expect.
> 
> As for heat loss with a rear heater's lines, how do they do it with a school bus with the heater under the back seat? I'd bet on pipe insulation.


They are rockstars on residential jobs. Thats what convinced me to keep them. Even a lot of the commercial properties I do are very tight-quarters and the short K5s make them go faster. On one residential we do, the Blazers can do it in roughly 30% faster than a pickup just due to being shorter.

As for Ice melt in a pickup, i started keeping it in big Rubbermaid-type tubs with locking lids. As long as you dont leave the lid off during a blizzard it keeps the salt dry and contained.

A single stage blower will fit the back of a K5, as long as there is nothing else back there (ballast, etc.). I always worry about fumes though, as I could always smell gas and exhaust in there. Even though the blower would get shut off before being loaded, there always seems to be some residual that would seem to follow it in. Maybe i'm just being paranoid about it, but I dont like it. We have done it many times but its a pain. You have to slide it in sideways lifting the wheels out of the gap between the tailgate and rear floor while tipping the handle down to clear the roof. Very doable when you pay attention to what you are doing (and care) but put an employee in that situation and lots of parts end up bent and twisted on the blower. Plus having the rear open lets out all your heat. I considered removing the rear seat and building some sort of bulkhead to seal the front off from the rear. Essentially that would leave you with a very short pickup with a topper, but I never tried it.

If you do foam the roof cavity, I would be interested to see how it works out. Could be worth a try, I know when my trucks are running all the snow melts off the roofs fairly quickly-almost as quick as any snow on the hood. I would suspect there is considerable heat loss through the roof.

My 76 never got that warm either, the heat was there but the ducting wasnt putting it where I needed it. Thats one of the things I plan to address before I finish its redo. What do you have for insulation now? Stock carpet and little else?

As for the rear heater idea, I think pipe insulation would help a lot but as cold as its been this winter I wonder if it would be enough. Half the time I wonder if I'm just not getting enough heat out of the motor to begin with.


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## derekbroerse

Currently stock carpet, and that is it. I need to trace some serious cold air leaks under the dash, though, for example the heater control panel is actually COLD to the touch when you drive, and shouldn't be. Need to clean the mouse nest out of the heater box. Carpet is getting tossed in favor of vinyl flooring, gotta figure out what I can put under it. Need new shifter boots too, they are split and letting the cold in too. I think between those items and foaming the roof, that heat would be excellent.

I'd like to replace the worn out bench seat too, may try to find something with heating elements too... just leave em on low all the time. I prefer to plow with the window open, better to see if I need to quickly, also allows you to hear the scrape and if there are any funny noises that shouldn't be there too... The worst is when you get out to shovel when it's still snowing and you get in all wet, then the windows fog up badly and the defroster can't seem to keep up. Might add an aux fan somewhere too (again, think school bus) since they seem to work well in my loader, and in my 3/4 ton when the flaps got stuck and defrost became a no-show...

There is definitely lots of room for improvement on these, but I still think the stone-age-simple mechanical reliability is worth it...


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## Italiano67

I always have wondered on older plow rigs how long the frame can take the abuse and or not just eventually get too thin from years of salt etc.


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## Rat_Power_78

derekbroerse;1750777 said:


> There is definitely lots of room for improvement on these, but I still think the stone-age-simple mechanical reliability is worth it...


My window is rarely closed all the way on anything I drive, especially when plowing. Sounds like you have a plan for fixing the heat and I like the idea of the auxiliary fan. None of mine have ever seemed to have much airflow out of any particular direction, just figured it was an old truck thing. Seems like you may have air coming in through the firewall somewhere? Insulating the roof really interests me. I never even thought of that. I may have to try it now.

There are lots on options for under your floor mat. I have done extensive reading online about various options, but never tried any myself.

One of my trucks had a 94-02 Ram split bench seat installed by a previous owner. That is by far the most comfortable truck I own. Its the same seat my 99 Ram has and its more comfortable in the old Chevy than it the Dodge. You can plow all day in that truck and still walk normal after. Never looked too close at how it was installed, but I think the mount was shortened in the back at least.

I completely agree with you on the simplicity of these trucks. Very few people I know seem to understand that.

I hope we haven't gotten this too far off track, hopefully the OP hasn't given up on this thread.


----------



## RONK

scottr,you do really great work.Like the others,I'd also like to see more pictures of your past and current projects.What other mods do you have planed for the Bronco?Thanks.
Rat_Power_78 and derekbroerse,I enjoy reading your posts on older trucks,thanks also.


----------



## scottr

Ronk, thanks for the compliment, I suppose I could post pics all day long of projects, however, like everyone, time is limited ! I work full time like most, and keep busy on the weekends in my shop. This project is going somewhat slow do to being fairly involved. Been working on the new spring hangers for the Superduty axles. Got the rear mounted today, also cut the front 15" of the frame off so I can replace it with 6x3x.250 wall tubing, this will allow me to have a better working surface for hanging the plow mount, etc. then I can start building the front spring hangers paying close attention to the caster angle.
Here's a shot of the rear spring hanger. I put 3 holes in the hanger so I can adjust the shackle angle after all the weight is on it should I need to. Having trouble post pic. Will keep trying.


----------



## xtreem3d

Scott,
what do you think that 52 will sell for? any more pics of it ?
Thanks,
Steve


----------



## scottr

Trying again to post pics.


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## scottr

Side shot of the same hanger


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## scottr

Xtreem: my 52 will likely sell for about 12-15K


----------



## derekbroerse

Italiano67;1750968 said:


> I always have wondered on older plow rigs how long the frame can take the abuse and or not just eventually get too thin from years of salt etc.


This all depends on how well it was taken care of all those years. There are lots of nooks and crannies that the crud all sits in and rots if not washed carefully and regularly, and they definitely need oil spraying.

This past summer, we were forced to make a decision on the '78, fix it or retire it. The frame was thin in places when I originally bought it on ebay in 04/05 somewhere, but it was getting really bad the last few seasons. However, it had a recent engine and clutch, stainless dual exhaust, and three year old body/paint work. Didn't make sense to junk it out, so we opted to back-half the truck since the front half, cab forward, was still mint. Selected a solid rear section, cab back, from a 2wd former City of Welland truck that a friend had parted out, and with some careful measuring, bracing, and cutting and welding (and bolting as well) we have a frame that is in my opinion stronger mid-ship than the original (it is overlapped, fully welded, and 6x 5/8" grade 8 bolts in shear for backup). At the same time we junked the totally rotted out dumping flatbed and replaced it with an aluminum flatbed, a wider rear axle (long story in itself), a Suburban 135L fuel tank (ditched the troublesome saddle tanks), and added a pair of underbody aluminum tool boxes (one carries spare oils, tow strap, booster cables etc. and the other carries bagged ice melter). It was a month and a half of work between both my dad and I but wow did it ever turn out GREAT!



Rat_Power_78;1751069 said:


> One of my trucks had a 94-02 Ram split bench seat installed by a previous owner. That is by far the most comfortable truck I own. Its the same seat my 99 Ram has and its more comfortable in the old Chevy than it the Dodge. You can plow all day in that truck and still walk normal after. Never looked too close at how it was installed, but I think the mount was shortened in the back at least.
> 
> I completely agree with you on the simplicity of these trucks. Very few people I know seem to understand that.
> 
> I hope we haven't gotten this too far off track, hopefully the OP hasn't given up on this thread.


I will look into a Dodge seat then, I have a friend with a couple of them so maybe I can at least snag one to measure up and see how it compares. I would imagine fancier ones must exist with heat, too.

I agree, I hope scottr doesn't think our banter is invading his thread, we just like old plow trucks just as much as him!


----------



## scottr

No worries on this thread fella's, stuff like this always ends up with some rabbit trails it seems. Thumbs Up
One comment on the older frames. One observation I've had is, older frames can fatigue and crack when mounting hardware is left unchecked, gets loose and starts working, I also feel most mounts are the bare min. And adding extra support can make a big difference in the long run. My old 52 came with a double frame, the inside "C" is spring steel, near impossible to drill through. But, strong as all get out.


----------



## derekbroerse

scottr;1751654 said:


> One comment on the older frames. One observation I've had is, older frames can fatigue and crack when mounting hardware is left unchecked, gets loose and starts working, I also feel most mounts are the bare min. And adding extra support can make a big difference in the long run. My old 52 came with a double frame, the inside "C" is spring steel, near impossible to drill through. But, strong as all get out.


I agree with this, the donor frame section is an example of this. Someone added the factory-style overloader springs and they were bolted on... two of the four perches were in the wrong place, but that is besides the point. We removed them and found cracks around their bolt holes which needed repair, so they were welded up completely. The brackets were moved to the proper location and were welded in place rather than bolted. Also, because they are cup-shaped on top and were a real trap for salt and dirt, we capped them with plate, welded in as well... doubled as more support.

Goes to show, even clean frames can have problems when you start taking things apart!!


----------



## Rat_Power_78

scottr;1751487 said:


> Been working on the new spring hangers for the Superduty axles.


Why Superduty axles? I assume the price and availability compared to anything else that size is way better up there, same as it is here. Also, what do you plan to run for tire size? Looks like your power wagon has some fairly tall tires, do you plan on doing something similar in height?


----------



## scottr

Rat: the super duty's were a gift from a buddy, there from an 02, so that was awesome. There are easier axles to make work, but free is free.
I plan to run something close to a 35" tire. The tires on my power wagon are 9:00/16's, they are about 37" tall, this was the OEM size for the truck. Nice thing is they are tall and skinny, exactly what I like in a plowing tire, cuts threw the snow and keeps a higher psi on the ground. I get frustrated with the new P-series tires as you can't get tall and skinny, everything is a ratio.


----------



## scottr

Here's a tire that I will likely use, it's a BF Goodrich mud terrain as I recall, their on my buddy's dodge that I built in the pics I posted, the tires were spied at the tire shop, there's nothing like watching in person to get a real idea of how well something works, and these tires are impressive, I've watched my buddy chern threw deep snow where I thought he was stuck for sure. Flat out impressive.


----------



## scottr

Another shot


----------



## derekbroerse

Get those Mud Terrains siped and they will be damn near unstoppable.


----------



## scottr

Did a little work on the front frame today. Cut the new frame horns and cross member, this will give me a nice surface for mounting the plow frame hardware.


----------



## Rat_Power_78

Looks like those tires siped will do the job nicely. Frame work is looking good. Did this one have the "accordion" section on the front frame? Im a little rusty on my Ford knowledge.


----------



## scottr

Rat: your memory is good, this did have the crumple zone.. That's what I cut off? Replacing with 6x3x.250 wall rec tube. When it comes to plow rigs, my Motto is " when in doubt, build it stout" Thumbs Up


----------



## Joe D

derekbroerse;1752708 said:


> Get those Mud Terrains siped and they will be damn near unstoppable.


I have those on my 98, 37's, they are horrible in hard pack but awesome in deep snow.


----------



## Rat_Power_78

I figured thats what you were doing. Definitely better overbuilt now than having to repair it later.


----------



## scottr

Joe: did you add any leafs to your 450 for carrying the 8611? I was looking at the same plow for this Bronco build, I have the stock 2 superduty leafs, than added 2 of the longest leafs from the rear bronco pack under them as a starting point. This was just a guess for starters, the only figures I found was the deflection chart for the 02 SD leafs, showing 430lbs for 1" of deflection for 1 spring. Looks like your leafs would take 450 - 470 lbs for the same depending on which pack came on your truck.


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## calebtk

wow Scottr that is amazing. where did you get your welding skills at? When do you use the back plow? I've never seen that before.


----------



## scottr

Caleb: thanks, self taught welder / fitter, made my living for several years as a pipe welder. The back plow is a great tool for saving time in certain locations, for example: a straight in driveway with a garage at the end, back all the way up to the door, drop the rear plow, pull the length of the truck, back up a couple feet, drop the front plow and push out to the end. No turning around from back dragging. Just one example.


----------



## calebtk

Man that is a great idea. I do a ton of driveways and that would be really helpful. To bad I don't have a custom plow truck like that though. Would make things much nicer.


----------



## IPLOWSNO

So are you done yet???
I'm subscribed either way


----------



## CARDOCTOR

wish you started this job earlier. i was in fairbanks end of august and could have done a meet and greet. never saw so many broken windshields as i saw in fairbanks.


----------



## scottr

Pillowsno: no, far from done, this will take me several months, I only get an hour or two after work and weekend time in on the project, like all of us, other things in life crop up and need attention, like shooting moose in the fall, filling the freezer with salmon in the summer 

Cardoctor: hope your visit up here was good. Yep, lots of cracked glass here  but that's OK, I'll take broken glass over salted roads any day. I grew up in northern MN where it was salt city, the corrosion on trucks and cars was horrible, you can have all that salt.

Been working on getting the suspension in the front dialed in, building spring hangers, keeping my Caster angle as top priority.


----------



## IPLOWSNO

I'd take it apart and not be able to put it back together lol,

Fiberglass tonneau cover would be cats ass on that rig!!


----------



## scottr

Got a few things done today., welded off the new front frame assembly and added fish plating to insure strength. Also built the rear side spring hangers. Used urethane bushings.


----------



## scottr

This may not be the right spot for this type of post, let me know if I should give it a rest.


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## scottr

A start on the spring hangers


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## scottr

Mock up position


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## scottr

Trying out the fit, mock up


----------



## scottr

Front frame tie in


----------



## scottr

Lining up springs, making sure everything is centered and square.


----------



## Joe D

scottr;1755258 said:


> Joe: did you add any leafs to your 450 for carrying the 8611? I was looking at the same plow for this Bronco build, I have the stock 2 superduty leafs, than added 2 of the longest leafs from the rear bronco pack under them as a starting point. This was just a guess for starters, the only figures I found was the deflection chart for the 02 SD leafs, showing 430lbs for 1" of deflection for 1 spring. Looks like your leafs would take 450 - 470 lbs for the same depending on which pack came on your truck.


I had a spring shop replace both front leaf packs. I had both the uppers break on me one day after a storm, sounded like a gun shot when they broke and hit the frame. The upper leafs broke behind the spring plate a few inches for some reason, probably the plow weight
That plow is over 1500lbs not sure I would use it on that short of a wheelbase. It does move massive amounts of snow though.


----------



## scottr

Holy cow Joe! Both leafs snapped? Now you got me worried. How long has the plow been on your rig? I better stick with a 810


----------



## Joe D

The 810 is perfect size I think, the 8611 is just to much. When the wings are out and your pushing, don't forget it's also taller, you need 8 tons of truck to push it. 
I got the Ford used and the front springs broke right away it seems, it never had a plow on it before so it wasn't that they were abused.


----------



## Joe D

Nice welds by the way


----------



## Diesel Dan

scottr;1751910 said:


> Here's a tire that I will likely use, it's a BF Goodrich mud terrain as I recall, their on my buddy's dodge that I built in the pics I posted, the tires were spied at the tire shop, there's nothing like watching in person to get a real idea of how well something works, and these tires are impressive, I've watched my buddy chern threw deep snow where I thought he was stuck for sure. Flat out impressive.


I run these same tires for plowing LT 255/85R16 a bit over 33" tall and real skinny, sipped at discount tire, they are awesome when the snow gets deep.


----------



## calebtk

man this is so impressive. great work. i love the updates.


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## s_aloisio

calebtk;1761093 said:


> man this is so impressive. great work. i love the updates.


I second this, awesome build thread.


----------



## scottr

Thanks for the heads up Joe, this site sure helps when making decisions Thumbs Up


----------



## Midwest BuildIt Inc

scottr;1760953 said:


> Holy cow Joe! Both leafs snapped? Now you got me worried. How long has the plow been on your rig? I better stick with a 810


factory ford leaf springs on the superduty breaking are very common. it was a problem in the early superduty's. Ive had to replace all of mine from the factory ones breaking. A buddy of mine had an 8611 on a f450. It was a beast but it moved a lot of snow. he broke a front spring to, his broke during the summer though, i do believe.


----------



## scottr

Projects always seem to go slow and this one is no different. Been working on building cross members, booking in the frame, etc. here a few pics.


----------



## scottr

Used 3" sch. 40 pipe to insert and tie inner and outer frames


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## scottr

Did this every 16". It should take all the twist out


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## scottr

More cross boxing


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## derekbroerse

Pretty serious frame boxing.... me likes!


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## Joe D

Are there any spots on the frame you could make the tube go from rail to rail? It seems all the new trucks with the boxed frames are going this route?


----------



## GMCHD plower

Really interested to see the plow build on this truck, it will certainly have to be stout because the truck sure wont be the piece to break!


----------



## gene gls

Scottr 

Nice work, waiting to see more. Thanks for posting.


----------



## Laszlo Almasi

I'd love to get an old '52 Powerwagon myself. Not for plowing, but to have as a shop truck perhaps. Very nice builds scottr


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## scottr

Thanks guys
Joe, yes there is some room for a X brace, when I set the engine,trans, t case anain I will be looking at building one. Maybe something that fits into the frame rail holes (3" holes) 
Laszlo, you can buy my 52 and drive it home, what a great story to tell your friends about .


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## IPLOWSNO

I wish you just get off your ass and get this thing done already !!! Overhauling does it in a week lol

Haha just busting your balls!! I wish overhauling would stop by and do my truck as a serious plow truck!!!


----------



## scottr

Yea, I slowed down and had a full pot of coffee today, where was my head  How cool would that be to have a show like that come in and make your rig new and then some.


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## IPLOWSNO

Hell yea I always quiz my kids which one they d pick out of my fleet and what would they tell chip!!

I'm scared because they are girls!!!

To pick I have the following 
75 caprice convertible
87 reg cab my old plow truck
91 extended cab girls thought we were rich when I bought that ,raced an iroc and after a few miles the iroc gave up and I finally came around him my girls remember that clear as day lol
05 express awd

I told them for a crazy build I'd want my van cut in half , its already a four seater with cargo in the back, with a s-10 stepside box on it with a nice lift kit 33" tire would be fine.

Take out the awd and put a axle under it, supercharge the 5,3,
Nice vee plow with a perimeter Eco skeleton roof rack rub rails etc!!!!


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## scottr

Holy cow. You put some real thought into that  I don't bother dreaming of that, no way Foose would wander up here !


----------



## IPLOWSNO

My wife asked me when I started watching it, it was a truck exactly like my 91 they did for a kid,

So she asked me what I'd do, I seen an astro van done like that and at the time , my wife drove an astro so I told her that's what I wanted!!

Now I have an express and full size is for me!!

But the only cars they do are for well off local to the area people, they'd never pick nothing from Ny,

So dreaming is all I got lol but badass it would be hahaha


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## scottr

Built my own pitman arm yesterday, used 2x1" flat bar, 6" drop total. This is often a real frowned upon thing to Fab, and I believe in some states it's ileagle to fab steering parts. I'll do some off road testing prior to hwy driving and before plowing. I feel very confident in my welding skills.


----------



## scottr

FYI, the nuts are just started on the drag link, this 6" drop allowed me to keep everything stock on the superduty axle, will make it easier when replacing parts.


----------



## mwalsh9152

awesome work! You will like using the Bronco for your driveways, I always take the harder ones that pay more too!


----------



## Rat_Power_78

Seems like an awful lot of leverage... Be interesting to see how it works out. I totally understand wanting to be able to get replacement parts, but safety is important. Im not questioning your skills, just would hate to see this fail on the road. Maybe look into hydro assist to take some load off?


----------



## derekbroerse

Maybe you can show a stock one side-by-side so people can get the comparison a little better...? 

I like it... you aren't going rock crawling with it...


----------



## mnglocker

I'd take a serious look at just going full hydraulic for steering. If you keep a decent caster angle for nice self centering on the road, you'll be putting a shat ton of weight on the steering gear, that would otherwise be near nothing at all for a hydraulic system to handle. Not to mention, if you get a decent sized central hydraulic pump, you've got your plow controls covered. 

I've got a 94' FS Bronco, and one of my biggest complaints about it is the lack of current from the alternator. I milled a smaller overdrive pulley for the alternator, so small in fact that you have to use a thin wall socket to get the nut on/off. 

By the way Scott R, thanks for sharing this thread. I'm looking at doing a 1-ton driveline swap in my truck, but I'm thinking about swapping out the 13:1 351w for a 6bt cummins so that I can have my torque and 30mpg too.


----------



## scottr

Mnglocker : ( I like your handle , I don't carry a glock, but a 1911 45 everywhere I go ) OK, back to the topic at hand. I have considered a full hyd. steer, I even have a new steering valve. But, I'm sorta picking my battles, as I can add this later if what I have does not work, ( not that I want to find out the hard way ) My caster is right at 4.5 positive with the engine, trans, t-case, it will decrease a bit when the body is back on and plow lifted. My calulations show me still above 2 degrees after everything is on. Not ideal, but with in spec. Have you looked into the 3G alt. upgrade? From what I read, they sound like they put out real well. My buddy just finished upgrading all his pos. & neg. cables ( everything, body grounds, engine grounds, all of it ) and also installed a 300 amp alt. Wow, after 16 hrs of plowing, his XLS still jumps off the snow. He said the re-cabling made the biggest differance. He had some 3/0 welding lead and used it. Yes, it's big, but also very fine strand and as we know, the DC current travles on the outside of the conductor, so the fine strand really gives a clear path to flow.
Your 6BT would be a awesome swap, I say do it this weekend


----------



## mnglocker

As far a h/o alternators for the Bronco, plowing isn't my concern with that truck. I just happen to have a stupid large stereo system in it. (Draws around 80amps at 50% D/C) That being said, if I do the 6BT swap, the wimpy ford alternator isn't much of a concern any more, the stock denso on the cummins when out of a dodge is 140amp.


----------



## mnglocker

I doubt I'll get the 6bt swap done anytime soon. I'm picking my battles as well right now. I've got a 99 Dakota R/T that needs a suspension system in it. That'll come first, as it'll be quicker and about $7k less over all.


----------



## alldayrj

I would gusset or make that pitman arm double sheer. Check out pirate4x4.com for ideas


----------



## scottr

Thats a good idea, and some good referance photos. I was hoping to keep stock on the wear items like drag link, etc. However the double shear is a superior design for sure. I'll have to get a closer look at how much room I have to give up with a re-design, might have to build a offset drag link end and incorporate a hiem joint or somthing. Gusset would be easy enough, maybe I'll entertain that first.


----------



## scottr

Been a while scenes I posted any updates. Been moving sorta slow on the bronco build, couple other project hit my door that needed attention. I added the read cross members that will allow me to build the mounts for the rear plow.


----------



## scottr

Another shot


----------



## derekbroerse

Shouldn't fall apart any time soon... lol


----------



## Rat_Power_78

You definitely know your way around a welder. Lookin good.


----------



## norwester

Darned nice build.


----------



## DuramaxLML-42

Wow outstanding work.


----------



## scottr

Thanks guys, work on the project has slowed down a bit. Took some time to do some sledding in the Mnts. Spring riding is hard to resist. Bent some hydraulic lines out of 1" tubing and welded SAE fittings on the ends. Just picked up some 1/2" SS tubing that will run down the passenger side rail to feed the rear plow ram. Hope to have it done by weeks end.


----------



## scottr

Got a little more done this weekend, ran 1/2" SS tubing to feed the rear plow.


----------



## scottr

Also built a rear torque arm to keep axle wrap in check, this may be over kill but I had all the parts to do it. Used to stock bronco bushings off the radius arm for the front pivot.


----------



## scottr

Forward mount


----------



## scottr

I'm looking for a XLS for my front plow, I'll pull the motor, pump, valve body off and sell it along with the wiring harness and controls. This will allow me to run my manifold, then I'll build a relay bank and wiring.
Wow, I still have lots to do


----------



## derekbroerse

Where is my thumbs up button?


----------



## scottr

Summer is here and work on the plow rig has slowed a bit, been working on rebuilding the front and rear axles, building the exhaust and other little welding items on the frame. Built a truss on the front and rear axle to keep flexing at bay while bouncing down the road with the plow in the air.


----------



## scottr

Rear axle ready for top coat


----------



## scottr

Exhaust is 2.5" into 3", kept it very short


----------



## derekbroerse

Making it nice n purrrrrty, just to put it out in the sand and snow? What did you use for paint?


----------



## Rat_Power_78

scottr;1810856 said:


> Summer is here and work on the plow rig has slowed a bit


Looks like you are still making progress though. Looks good.


----------



## Joe D

scottr;1803001 said:


> Also built a rear torque arm to keep axle wrap in check, this may be over kill but I had all the parts to do it. Used to stock bronco bushings off the radius arm for the front pivot.


Your going to get binding as the axle moves up and down with no pivot point and such a short arm. This is off-road designs kit they sell but I'm sure you can fab one up.Thumbs Up


----------



## scottr

derekbroerse;1810861 said:


> Making it nice n purrrrrty, just to put it out in the sand and snow? What did you use for paint?


We don't see much salt here so that helps the paint last, most if it is rustoleum shot on with my touch up gun.


----------



## scottr

Joe D;1810927 said:


> Your going to get binding as the axle moves up and down with no pivot point and such a short arm. This is off-road designs kit they sell but I'm sure you can fab one up.Thumbs Up


Your right Joe, I may get binding, the front pivot is the same parts that's used on a stock bronco front end so I'm hoping it will work, I don't plan on having a lot of travel like the off road guys so that may help also. Worse case I pull it off and plow snow.


----------



## scottr

Got some brackets and attaching points made and welded on for the rear plow, also built a receiver and glued it in place.. This evening I completely disassembled the C-6 auto transmission.


----------



## scottr

Transmission parts laid out


----------



## derekbroerse

Isn't it amazing how much space one dismantled component can take up? lol


----------



## scottr

derekbroerse;1810947 said:


> Isn't it amazing how much space one dismantled component can take up? lol


For sure, I suspect the guys that do it for a living can pile everything in one big heep, but I need all the organization I can get !!


----------



## scottr

*Continued work*

Finished the tranny rebuild.


----------



## scottr

Frame painting


----------



## scottr

Two coats of black shot with a HVLP, finely starting to re assemble.


----------



## IPLOWSNO

scottr;1813425 said:


> Two coats of black shot with a HVLP, finely starting to re assemble.


Lookin good Scott


----------



## snowsniper1

Looks great can't wait to see the finished product


----------



## scottr

Few more things bolted on, hyd lines run, etc.


----------



## scottr

Exhaust, vent lines, and more


----------



## Whiffyspark

Wish I had the time to do stuff like that. Beautiful work


----------



## novawagonmaster

Great project!
Definitely will not be sneaking up on anyone with that exhaust.


----------



## scottr

I'm hoping it's not too loud, my intent was to keep it short and not use to large of muffler, might have shot myself in the foot. ? will see. ( kind of wanted my cake and eat it too


----------



## novawagonmaster

Looks like a Flowmaster (or similar design). 
I ran a single 3" Flowmaster 40 series on my Chevy 2500 with a stock 454. It was pretty loud and droned inside the cab pretty bad. Sounded mean outside the truck, though. I ran it for a couple years and decided I was too old for that and wanted something quiet. I went with Flowmaster's bigger 70-series muffler and was very happy.


----------



## scottr

I set the power plant, trans, transfer. Feels good to do it for the last time Thumbs Up


----------



## IPLOWSNO

scottr;1817675 said:


> I set the power plant, trans, transfer. Feels good to do it for the last time Thumbs Up


Looking good Scott


----------



## scottr

The lower idler pulley was added to gain max belt contact with the hyd pump pulley and power steering pulley. I had to machine a flat spot on the housing, weld in a block, then turn a shaft for the idler to center on. Took a bit on time to get it perfect so there was no runout.


----------



## novawagonmaster

Nice work!


----------



## Rat_Power_78

Going to be ready before snow flies?


----------



## derekbroerse

Nice work!!! BUT if you make it too pretty, you won't wanna take it out in the snow!!! lol I know from experience... (then once you put the first scratch on it, its ok from there on out....!)


----------



## scottr

Ha ha
I sure hope to be ready for snow, worken hard. 
It might be shinny but I'll put it to the test out there payup

I set the body on it this weekend, checked everything for fit, hooked up the bare essentials and lit a fire under the 460, was good to hear it purr, did a run in for 20 minutes. Un-hooked everything and pulled the body back off.
Have to move the end of my suction line over about an inch, no big deal. One set back, ended up with a tranny leak out the bell housing, bummer. 
I screwed up installing my torque converter and didn't get it engaged into the pump correctly and took out the bushing in the front pump. OOPS!!
Well, a little slice of humble pie for me to eat, it's a fairly easy and cheep fix but still hurts a little. the tranny and t-case are back out and parts are back off the tranny, should have it fixed and re-installed after work tonight. Then the rolling chassie gets put into the other bay and the body comes back in, and set on low stands so I can start cutting and fitting the rear cab and do the body work.


----------



## novawagonmaster

Good to hear you are making progress. 
As for the converter mishap, everybody who gets their hands dirty has either done it themselves or knows somebody who has done it. It's a pretty common oops. 
Can't wait to see what you get into with the body work.


----------



## rjigto4oje

scottr;1815706 said:


> I'm hoping it's not too loud, my intent was to keep it short and not use to large of muffler, might have shot myself in the foot. ? will see. ( kind of wanted my cake and eat it too


very nice work subscribe just to keep up with the project awesome work keeps the pic's coming even when the snow flys maybe a video too and if that exhaust system is loud a bigger amp and speakers should take care of that keep up the good work


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## RONK

Great stuff,thank you for the updates.


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## scottr

Thanks for the encouragement guys, here's a shot of the body sitting on the frame while I did the engine run up. The body is back off and will come in this week and be set on blocks so it's easier to work on ( this rig ended up to high off the ground, )


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## scottr

Still haven't come up with a good paint scheme I'm happy with ( for the body )


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## RONK

Scott,I'm sorry if you mentioned this before,are you going to run a back blade like your friend's Dodge?Do you have any details on what your doing to the interior?Again,thanks for all the updates and pictures.


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## scottr

Yes, the Bronco will have a back blade, I'll build it to fit the rig, likely starting with a used blade. The interior, I'll build a center console that will house the sidewinder gate shifter ( rock crawler gate) , switches for beacon, front and rear lighting and a good coffee cup holder . Other than that the biggest work will be building the rear cab when I pull the shell off.


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## scottr

Been awhile, fall tends to get busy, had to take 10 days off work to fly out and help a buddy finish his clean up at his gold mine. Been working on the Bronco body, interior and exterior. Found a 07 Blizzard 810 PP on CL for 4K, will drive 365 miles down to Anchorage, remove it from the truck and drive home with it on Friday ( long day)


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## scottr

Cut the F-150 cab down and welded it to the bronco, roof lines don't match perfectly but after some cutting, I was able to get it real close and still keep the OEM rear window size.


----------



## scottr

I'm no Chip Foose, or do I have a team of guy getting it all done in a half hour program like on TV  But, I keep at it and learn as I go.


----------



## scottr

picked up some nice seats from a Toyota minivan for the cab, built new mounts and tested them out.


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## scottr

Got the hood off and the firewall, fenders, etc. cleaned up and painted. I used a alum. color so it would help reflect light when working under the hood.


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## scottr

Built a rear rack to house reverse work lights and upper tail lights and a beacon.


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## scottr

finished product (almost ), beacon will mount on top of center bar.


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## scottr

started the light filler coat and prep before paint.


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## scottr

and the reason I took 10 days off Thumbs Up


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## novawagonmaster

Great work!
Can't wait to see the next batch of progress pics.


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## IPLOWSNO

scottr;1837595 said:


> and the reason I took 10 days off Thumbs Up


Looking good Scott how much gold you got?

I'd be tempted too hold onto that or trade it for lead and brass!


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## Jakedaawg

I sure miss Fairbanks. I used to live up the old Steese Hwy I think it was called. I wonder how the place has changed since the late eighties.

AAnyways nice build, basically in the thread for the subscription.


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## scottr

Iplow, enough gold to go back next year for sure, there's about 30oz in that pan.

Jakedog, you wouldn't reconize ol Fairbanks, lots of new big box stores, etc here now, but still a small mining town feel. ( most of the time)


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## scottr

Still plugging away at my project, finished body work, shot paint last weekend, finishing up painting this weekend. Just using a typical plastic tent style home made paint booth. Getting cold up here so venting outside is to costly. I'm recirculating. Built a filter box that my welding fume sucker is pulling through, works well, no dust or color outside the booth. Have to change filters a lot, but just using cheep forced air filters.


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## scottr

Decided if I was going to paint this thing I was going to have a little fun with it, I kept the main body the same dark green so I didn't have to fuss with door jams as much. So I had a local outfit take a ford raptor graphic they had in their computer and tweek it to the size I needed to fit the bronco body, they cut a left and right stencil for me. I shot a lighter green in the area, applied the stencil, then shot the dark green over everything, pulled all the little stencil parts ( pain) and gave it 3 coats of clear. Hard to get a good photo in the booth, should look better outside in the sun.


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## scottr

Nice to have a son in law who enjoys working on this stuff like me. This is him pulling the over mask off.


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## scottr

Presto, a quick paint job, ( well, about 5 hrs )


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## scottr

This one shows where I welded the 2 cabs together. Keep in mind, I'm no body man, just a back yard DIY type who likes to try stuff. Sometimes things turn out pretty good 
Having trouble with photos rotating on me after I upload them, sorry about that.


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## derekbroerse

Keep up the good work! Do you anticipate this being roadworthy for plowing this winter?


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## scottr

derekbroerse;1857378 said:


> Keep up the good work! Do you anticipate this being roadworthy for plowing this winter?


I sure hope to, picked up a used blizzard 810. I'll need to tear it apart and modify things then build the hook up to fit my rig. ( then build the rear plow )


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## Rat_Power_78

Looks great. How long til you have snow up there?


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## IPLOWSNO

I made a Tyvek tent too paint my van outside this spring, it came out real good seeing I did a 3 stage paint job!!

Keep it up and you'll be done soon Scott


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## Gman1200hd

Keep up the good work that bronco is great and love the power wagon I always wanted to build one


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## scottr

Rat: snowed 6" a couple weeks ago,plowed a few customers, but things have been quite scenes then. Can come anytime now for sure.


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## scottr

I plow: using Tyvek sounds like a great idea, bet that worked well.


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## novawagonmaster

Outstanding, Scott!!!


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## Ray

That truck is awesome. I just wish I had the time, tools and ability to do what you have done with that Bronco!


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## scottr

Got the vitals hooked up, built hydraulic lines for the hydro boost, etc. called the Ins. Man and got some coverage and did a short shake down Cruz. The 460 runs good and tranny shifts nice and firm
Still lots to do, running wires for all the lighting and Controles. ( will look better when I put the visor on Thumbs Up


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## derekbroerse

Coming together nicely!


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## Rick547

Looks outstanding. I wish I had the time and tools to do such a project.


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## RONK

It does look outstanding.


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## FordFisherman

Damn nice work!


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## Ray

Your Superduty Bronc is sick!


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## scottr

Thanks guys
I took the liberty of re-badging it to a superduty


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## IPLOWSNO

scottr;1864162 said:


> Thanks guys
> I took the liberty of re-badging it to a superduty


Awesome job Scotty!! Can't wait too see it done paint came out real nice too


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## novawagonmaster

Turning out way too nice for a plow rig.


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## RS69

Looks very nice...


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## scottr

Small details seem to take a lot of time, installed the rear LED lighting and tail lights, also wired up 5 overhead rocker switches to control all lighting and beacon. Mounted ultra thin LEDs under the visor to broadcast forward and a set of "rock lights" to light up the corners of the plow,


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## scottr

Front visor


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## scottr

Another, installed


----------



## scottr

One of the LEDs only lit up half so I'm waiting on a replacement for those that counted Thumbs Up. Here's a shot of the Alum blacked I fabled to mount the lights


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## Kevin_NJ

That's a lot of rear light output!


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## IPLOWSNO

Nice job Scott you got build of the year for sure!!


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## scottr

It's dark up here all winter


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## Rat_Power_78

novawagonmaster;1864325 said:


> Turning out way too nice for a plow rig.


Yep way too nice to plow with. But then again, if you are taking the time and effort to do it, may as well do it right.


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## scottr

Been getting a few smaller things done, just about ready to start building the plow mounts. I know this thread has turned into somewhat of a "build" thread, so if there are folks out there that want me to stop posting in this section, I understand. No worries.

Added A pillar gages, bottom is outside air temp and top is transmission temp. I added a sensor in the supply line and return line, they run through a toggle switch so I can flip between them and see how well my cooler is doing.


----------



## scottr

Here's a shot of the 5 rockers that control all my lighting / beacon


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## scottr

Where to mount the plow controls and shifter has been rolling around my head for awhile now. My thought is to keep them close to each other for limited arm movement. I've always used left hand controls so I could shift with the right. In this case I'm trying everything on the right. I started with cardboard and a hot glue gun ( handy little tool) I mocked up the center console and test fit it a time or two.


----------



## scottr

I traveled from cardboard to MDF and built the center console


----------



## scottr

The alum. control piece is easily removable so I can swap parts and work on wiring as needed.


----------



## scottr

This is sort of a "boxy" look I know, but it works well and I'm not real good with wood and such. I should explain the controls, I have a blizzard 810 PP with the old style "shoe box" I'm keeping that intact as a back up and using a Meyers slick stick as the main joy stick and some "pivot over" type rockers to control the wings. ( these take a much lighter touch than the OEM rockers) Many thanks to others on this site that have helped me understand the wiring and options out there) The yellow toggle on the right is for the up/down on the rear drag plow. My arm and wrist, rest on the padded top and my have falls onto the joystick in a natural position. I can raise my two fingers and operate the wings without moving my arm. Also, I mounted the shifter so when in "D" and I pullback on the joystick, ( stacking snow in a pile) their right in line with each other, my thumb can fall to the side and slide the shifter into "R" without moving my have.


----------



## scottr

Another shot, I should explain the shifter, pay no attention to the "1-2-3" This shifter is set up for the rock crawler guys that like to run reverse valve body transmissions and need to quickly slide from 1st to reverse with no gate. This is what I'm using, however my valvebody is stock so I slide back and forth from Drive to reverse without restriction.


----------



## scottr

A little inside storage


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## scottr

If you look back a couple photos, you see a small slot in the alum. on the right toward the back, this allows a slight bit of illumination to fall over the controls from some green LED I mounted inside the console. I also cut a small slit in both coffee cup holders for the same reason. The light also comes up into the opening of the shifter gate, but not bright, just $6 dollar backround lighting. This lighting is meant to be functional not to look like the kids with the under glow on their trucks Thumbs Up


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## scottr

hand position


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## scottr

onto rockers


----------



## YPLLLC

Amazing work Scott. Can't wait to see the build pictures for the back plow. Been wanting to build one and haven't known where to start. Keep up the GREAT work!!!!!


----------



## Kevin_NJ

scottr;1909897 said:


> I know this thread has turned into somewhat of a "build" thread, so if there are folks out there that want me to stop posting in this section, I understand. No worries.


No way! Love the work, keep posting!


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## IPLOWSNO

Looking good Scott wood work isn't bad either!!

For future builds you can make a mdf carcass, use spray foam let it harden sculpt sand the way you want it to feel when done. Wrap in aluminum foil and hot glue staple sweater fabric over it, apply resin.

Add bondo/ resin both hardeners and mix it up into a milshake apply with brush instead of a knife

Sands easily and is easy to coat contours!

Prime and paint or wrap in fabric too finish !

Time consuming but when your done it pays back immediately


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## scottr

Wow, sounds like a cool process, I can see how you can get all kinds of shapes that way. Will keep in mind for the next project. Thanks


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## RONK

k1768;1910007 said:


> No way! Love the work, keep posting!


 X2.Thanks for all the posts.


----------



## slplow

I hope you kept the power wagon, this truck looks to nice to plow with


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## Flawless440

Wow!! Sweet Rig


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## Rat_Power_78

Any concern about moisture getting in the cable on that shifter? Looks to be very comfortable and well thought out.


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## scottr

Rat_Power_78;1910954 said:


> Any concern about moisture getting in the cable on that shifter? Looks to be very comfortable and well thought out.


Time will tell, however I have positive thoughts about it, as most all the newer transmissions are shifted by cable. Maybe I can find. Long skinny boot that would cover the exposed end under the truck.
One more thing to add to my "to do" list.Thumbs Up


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## Rat_Power_78

As I recall, that style cable has small rubber boots at the end. Hopefully that will do the job? Looks like it will be way better than column shift and I really like the idea of using the slick stick as your joystick. How did you end up attaching the console to the floor?


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## scottr

Rat_Power_78;1912713 said:


> As I recall, that style cable has small rubber boots at the end. Hopefully that will do the job? Looks like it will be way better than column shift and I really like the idea of using the slick stick as your joystick. How did you end up attaching the console to the floor?


Your correct, small rubber boots on this cable, more of a dust boot at best.
Attached it with 4- large self tappers, ones used for trailer decking.


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## RONK

Scott,why did you choose a Blizzard(expandable),over V-plow?Thank you again for all your updates.


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## scottr

RONK;1914039 said:


> Scott,why did you choose a Blizzard(expandable),over V-plow?Thank you again for all your updates.


That's a good question. For me, I have no need for a V, in a V configuration. Only due to my snow conditions. I see little to no wind, so no drifting. Our snow is historicly very light and dry ( however recent weather patterns have changed that a bit ). I can load the blade and carry with the wings out just as well as a V. And I can do a faster / better job winging snow with a power wing style plow. That being said, let me state that I have limited time behind a V plow so I'm no expert.


----------



## RONK

Thanks Scott.Any reason of the Blizzard instead of a Fisher/Western?Jerre Heyer,a PlowSite member has a plow shop in Erie,PA,he modifies Blizzards to make them even better,he might be a good person to speak to if you want to beef up the plow.


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## scottr

Ronk. I was open to any of the power wing plows, I do like the steel cutting edge on the wings of the Blizzard, but bottom line is I found a used Blizzard first. Simple as that. I'm not found of the bottom lift system on the Blizzard so I'll cut that off and likely use a solid mount double acting ram style lift system, sorta like some of the Boss plows. I don't need to remove the plow so the power hitch is just more wear points. And Yes, Ol Jere is a great resource for info, he has been kind enough to give me some good pointers on central hydraulics.


----------



## scottr

Got a start on the front plow push frame, built it out of 3x3x.250 Sq.tube, used 3/4" plate for ears and 1.5" pins and bushings ( with grease zirk  )
Also pulled the blizzard 810 in and started cutting and re-enforcing the A-frame. I suspect it's a fine line between cost, weight, etc. when they build these. Not impressed, couple cracked welds due to poor welding ( IMO ). I boxed in most of the A-frame with .125" plate and added .250" angle where the push ears attach. Not done yet, going to add some beefy angle stops, I have lots of room as I'm not using the OEM bottom lift so the hose openings can be covered. I have most of my hydraulic parts and fittings, just getting an idea of how I'll place the compoants and run main lines, etc. Slow but sure.....


----------



## scottr

push frame


----------



## scottr

A-frame parts


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## scottr

another of a frame


----------



## scottr

Another of the a frame


----------



## scottr

Lube me, lube me Thumbs Up


----------



## scottr

Install and mock up


----------



## scottr

different angle


----------



## scottr

needs paint and some hoses / wire, then I might move some snow.:bluebounc


----------



## scottr

doing some math on the plow and hydraulics, the stock Blizzard with their under-mount ram ( at 2500 pump psi) they get about 3,000 lbs of lift at the cutting edge when level. With the little smaller ram I'll be using and different pivot points, I'll get about 4,000 lbs of lift.


----------



## xgiovannix12

doing a great job Cant wait to see more


----------



## Sawboy

scottr;1863610 said:


> Got the vitals hooked up, built hydraulic lines for the hydro boost, etc. called the Ins. Man and got some coverage and did a short shake down Cruz. The 460 runs good and tranny shifts nice and firm
> Still lots to do, running wires for all the lighting and Controles. ( will look better when I put the visor on Thumbs Up


I just spent the best 45 minutes of this short year reading this from the beginning. This truck is awesome, and I have developed a man crush at the same time! LMAO :laughing:

Awesome man.....just awesome


----------



## scottr

That cracks me up. The only snow I've moved was this little bit that fell over night.


----------



## Rat_Power_78

Thats got to be one of the beefiest plow mounts around, and the grease-able pins are a nice touch. Have you put any miles on the truck yet?


----------



## scottr

Rat_Power_78;1932725 said:


> Thats got to be one of the beefiest plow mounts around, and the grease-able pins are a nice touch. Have you put any miles on the truck yet?


I've put about 40 gallons thru the tank, I don't have the speedo hooked up yet. The 40 sure seem to go fast  the 460 is a thirsty little bugger


----------



## novawagonmaster

It will take a concentrated effort to hurt that setup. Nice job!


----------



## fastjohnny

May have missed it, are you running any integrated ballast? 
Down pressure would be really easy, use the pink wire in the harness, as you won't need that due to no power hitch.

Do you have plans for your non used parts for the blizzard like end head/hydro reservoir, etc?


----------



## scottr

fastjohnny;1934207 said:


> May have missed it, are you running any integrated ballast?
> Down pressure would be really easy, use the pink wire in the harness, as you won't need that due to no power hitch.
> 
> Do you have plans for your non used parts for the blizzard like end head/hydro reservoir, etc?


Hey Johnny, ballast will start with the rear drag plow then I'll add sections of 10" x3/4" flat cutting edge in the bed behind the axle ( in the bed)
No plans for all the extra parts. While I have your ear, does the diode pack on the plow side get used in my situation?


----------



## fastjohnny

scottr;1934378 said:


> Hey Johnny, ballast will start with the rear drag plow then I'll add sections of 10" x3/4" flat cutting edge in the bed behind the axle ( in the bed)
> No plans for all the extra parts. While I have your ear, does the diode pack on the plow side get used in my situation?


Yes for float.
If you could ever get your hands on a manifold that had an S7 coil it would be worthwhile for continuous downpressure. IIRC, those would be from 01-early03 810's.

I might think about making you an offer, though shipping from AK may be cost prohibitive.


----------



## scottr

fastjohnny;1936379 said:


> Yes for float.
> 
> I might think about making you an offer, though shipping from AK may be cost prohibitive.


Thanks FJ, often shipping out of AK is cheep, compared to shipping in


----------



## fastjohnny

scottr;1932430 said:


> Got a start on the front plow push frame, built it out of 3x3x.250 Sq.tube, used 3/4" plate for ears and 1.5" pins and bushings ( with grease zirk  )
> Also pulled the blizzard 810 in and started cutting and re-enforcing the A-frame. I suspect it's a fine line between cost, weight, etc. when they build these. Not impressed, couple cracked welds due to poor welding ( IMO ). I boxed in most of the A-frame with .125" plate and added .250" angle where the push ears attach. Not done yet, going to add some beefy angle stops, I have lots of room as I'm not using the OEM bottom lift so the hose openings can be covered. I have most of my hydraulic parts and fittings, just getting an idea of how I'll place the compoants and run main lines, etc. Slow but sure.....


I like what I see...:salute:

I would also reinforce the push beam when adding angle stops, as I've had those bend just beyond the angle stop contact point.


----------



## scottr

fastjohnny;1936392 said:


> I like what I see...:salute:
> 
> I would also reinforce the push beam when adding angle stops, as I've had those bend just beyond the angle stop contact point.


I do have plans to add steel that will allow the stop to hit against the angle iron brace and the lower main beam at the same time. The angle supports Blizzard uses are pretty flimsy.


----------



## scottr

Few more photos to update.
Ram mounts


----------



## scottr

Upper mount with bumper installed


----------



## scottr

Blizzard manifold with machined supply/return block, relief valve and double acting open center valve for rear plow mounted to a frame


----------



## scottr

A frame ready to install


----------



## scottr

Plow and Rams installed


----------



## scottr

And yes, after 14 months of building this rig I finely pushed snow :bluebounc
Big shout out to many on this site who were willing to share their expertise like Jerre and Fast Johnny to name a couple.Thumbs Up


----------



## scottr

And another


----------



## scottr

Fun while it lasted, got to admit the losses along with successes, I plow 3 driveways and my relief valve started lifting, got home and checked things out, tightened adjustable relief and fired back up, thought I was good, took off for the next driveway, made it 4 blocks and blew discharge hose at the pump. Wow, what a mess. Dumped 5 gals of hyd oil in a guy's driveway  was able to swap drive belts to bypass the pump and drive it back home.. Spoke with one of our local ( this site) experts on Blizzard plows, seems that issues can arise when trying to stuff more than 6 gpm thru the manifold. It and shift a valve and start to deadhead the system, this made scenes why the relief valve was lifting. I screwed up by adjusting the valve and not looking further into the problem. I was to excited to use my new rig.. So, my plan is to get a new internal parts for my pump and bring it down to 4 gpm. Still on the learning curve . Good thing my old Powerwagon was still ready to plowThumbs Up
I still have work to do, add ballast, build rear plow, etc, etc


----------



## snowman55

how did the direct lift work out? the stock arm struggles so much on a blzzard. thought of doing that to an 8611


----------



## scottr

snowman55;1973333 said:


> how did the direct lift work out? the stock arm struggles so much on a blzzard. thought of doing that to an 8611


Works great, I kept the ram size about the same so the force ratings for lift was close to the OEM ram. But, my pivot points are further apart giving me more advantage. Your right, the OEM arm seems to be so close on their pivot points and use such small pins, that they willow out pre maturely and effect lift height. 
Keep in mind when I say works great, I only have a short time on it, but so far so good. Also, my pins are all 1.5" and 1.25"Thumbs Up


----------



## fastjohnny

Lookin' good Scott!


----------



## xgiovannix12

looking good


----------



## mwalsh9152

Damn Scott! I am blown away at how well this turned out! I am feeling pretty inadequate about my Bronco now lol. 

How is the turning radius with the leaf sprung axle compared to stock? I put an 05 coil axle in mine, and it turns so well that I am annoyed when I try to do anything somewhat tight with my friends 97 Reg cab F-250. How bad do you estimate the fuel economy with the 460? I'm really getting tired of the racket my 7.3 makes, combined with the fact that it takes FOREVER to warm up the engine, then the enormous cab of the Bronco!


----------



## Flawless440

Wow... Nice rig


----------



## scottr

mwalsh9152;1976479 said:


> Damn Scott! I am blown away at how well this turned out! I am feeling pretty inadequate about my Bronco now lol.
> 
> How is the turning radius with the leaf sprung axle compared to stock? I put an 05 coil axle in mine, and it turns so well that I am annoyed when I try to do anything somewhat tight with my friends 97 Reg cab F-250. How bad do you estimate the fuel economy with the 460? I'm really getting tired of the racket my 7.3 makes, combined with the fact that it takes FOREVER to warm up the engine, then the enormous cab of the Bronco!


The turning seems super tight to me because Im coming off a 1952 Power Wagon with a 126" WB ( as I recall) feels like I'm spinning on a dime.
No firm calcs. On mileage I would estimate 8-10, just got my speedo working and programmed for current tire size so I should know soon. With the single cab I have now on this rig, it heats up so fast and has to be turned way down. More heat than I know what to do with. ( good thing to have up here Thumbs Up)


----------



## mwalsh9152

scottr;1976842 said:


> The turning seems super tight to me because Im coming off a 1952 Power Wagon with a 126" WB ( as I recall) feels like I'm spinning on a dime.
> No firm calcs. On mileage I would estimate 8-10, just got my speedo working and programmed for current tire size so I should know soon. With the single cab I have now on this rig, it heats up so fast and has to be turned way down. More heat than I know what to do with. ( good thing to have up here Thumbs Up)


I suppose coming from anything to a Bronco would be give the spinning on a dime feeling, and that if there really is a difference, its miniscule.

I think part of my problem is that I am just totally burnt out on mine, as it is a work in progress still. My original cab rotted away very badly, so I was in the middle of prepping a cab swap, and trying to do it 100% right when my wife got pregnant. Its been an afterthought ever since. Some day I will finish it up and love it again like I do when its warmed up and pushing snow like a monster!


----------



## TLB

Great build, thanks for posting it


----------



## scottr

Thought I would toss out an update for those with no snow falling and a little time to kill.
Last spring I was working out some hydraulic issues. The result was almost a complete re-do of my flow control block. I though I had a good handle on how the system flowed, but, I didn't..... Ended up getting a central hyd. block that Blizzard makes from a dealer out East. some new plumbing and back at it. In my hast to get running, I overlooked the fact that the OEM relief valve had been replaced with a plug, the result was about 5000 psi going to my lift ram. When the plow came up against it's stops, fluid kept pushing and I peeled the top right out of the cylinder. Sorta makes a mess when fluid is spraying/misting into the air.


----------



## scottr

The lift cylinder I was using was a odd one I had laying around. It is a somewhat poor design according to the rebuild shop I asked to fix it. Not worth fixing. I couldn't find a replacement in the same size I needed so I decided to go with a more common ram that I can get off the shelve. That meant I needed to re-do the mounts. Some cutting and welding and it's a fit.


----------



## scottr

Hard to see in this photo, Added a large adjustable relief valve to cover the system.


----------



## scottr

End result after wire and hoses are all cleaned up.


----------



## scottr

With cover


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## scottr

Started the rear plow a couple days ago, had it in my head for the last year to build a 4-link parallel arm set up. This would allow me to keep the plow tight to the rear end and keep the overall length down. My buddy with the rear snoman plow stopped over and said it's a mistake to not have some kind of trip system for the kind of driveways we do. ( big rocks, tree roots, etc). Taking this into consideration and posting the same question here in this site, I have switched gears and decided to build a pull plow more like a snoman style with a trip feature. I was given a used Blizzard 810 with no wings, so I thought this would be a nice rear plow and match my front!!
The angle of the cutting edge is way different that most rear pull plows so I'll likely change the mounting of the edge. Built good solid pivot points for the truck side.


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## scottr

did some figuring on the rear frame work, cut and welded the first sections on. Lots of cross bracing to be added. I have to OEM lift cylinder off the Blizzard, going to try and use it for this plow.


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## scottr

This is what it looks like when fully tripped, trip springs to be added latter.


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## scottr

fully lifted.


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## scottr

One other note: using the size ram I did up front was for a reason, I knew that big of tube would be slow to fill, but the calcs. came out to a lot of lifting power even at 2500 psi operating pressure. I believe I can lift and stack OK, but not as high as a chain lift. To do a seat of the pants test, I strapped the Blizzard 810 rear blade to my front, picked it up and carried it into my shop. ( don't have a fork lift)


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## jhall22guitar

Is that going to be high enough to stack?


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## scottr

jhall22guitar;2039763 said:


> Is that going to be high enough to stack?


Good question, when fully lifted my cutting edge is 20" off the ground. If it turns out to be a flop, I can turn it into a chain style lift. (back up plan.) But with all the climate change, I hope to be surfing up here soon


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## TJS

Cool build Scott. Where did you get the SAE fittings you welded on those tubes a while back. I like that idea.
T.J.


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## scottr

TJS;2040005 said:


> Cool build Scott. Where did you get the SAE fittings you welded on those tubes a while back. I like that idea.
> T.J.


Local vender here in town carries them (Alaska Rubber and Rigging). They are made for steel tubing OD, not pipe. I used my MIG welder and back ground all starts and stops. I'm not set up for TIG, I think it would be a better choice. Tested all mine to 5000 psi, no leaks. If you google " weld on JIC tubing ends" you will find them.


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## TJS

scottr;2040039 said:


> Local vender here in town carries them (Alaska Rubber and Rigging). They are made for steel tubing OD, not pipe. I used my MIG welder and back ground all starts and stops. I'm not set up for TIG, I think it would be a better choice. Tested all mine to 5000 psi, no leaks. If you google " weld on JIC tubing ends" you will find them.


Ya I TIG all my fitting stuff. I have to place an order for hoses from Surplus center dot com and will also order some SAE O ring to JIC fittings and just machine off the JIC part if I want to do this and just weld them onto the tube.
There also is a local hose and fittng place near me too.


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## scottr

forgot to post photos of the finished rear plow, (not sure that anyone cares) 
built gussets to re-enforce frame work.


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## scottr

with ram mounted


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## SnoFarmer

Looks beefy...

Care,meh.....

Like pics Thumbs Up

What about a 2way ram, so you can apply DP?


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## scottr

added 5/8" belting for wings,


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## scottr

in use, the wings sure make a differance in how much snow you can carry and not leave windrows.


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## scottr

getting a few snows under my belt with this rig, she pushes like a freight train, very comfortable to operate. the 460 has a drinking problem  all in all im happy with the outcome. It weights 8740 with 1/2 tank of gas. traction is very good, hydraulics are strong. I'm 20' from cutting edge to cutting edge. Im adding air bags in the rear to keep it level when I lift the rear plow.
Thanks for all the help that everybody has offered on this site. I have about 13K into this build as you see it here.


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## scottr

SnoFarmer;2064395 said:


> Looks beefy...
> 
> Care,meh.....
> 
> Like pics Thumbs Up
> 
> What about a 2way ram, so you can apply DP?


Sno, it is a double acting ram, photo dosent show the upper fitting, i have a RV back there to limit down pressure to about 2500 psi. scraps good


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## Sawboy

Is it wrong to have a crush on this truck?


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## SnoFarmer

scottr;2064419 said:


> Sno, it is a double acting ram, photo dosent show the upper fitting, i have a RV back there to limit down pressure to about 2500 psi. scraps good


I'm lik'en thatThumbs Up


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## snocrete

One word to describe this rig.....bada$$Thumbs Up


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## Dogplow Dodge

Scott,

Truly an amazing piece of machinery. Most likely the best snow rig out there made from pickup truck parts.


If you had to take a guess...


What do you think your total layout of $$ was

And 

Number of hours put into it ?


Not looking for exact.... just a ballpark would be great...


Truly amazing work you do up there.

Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up


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## fastjohnny

Great work Scott.


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## scottr

Dogplow Dodge;2064596 said:


> Scott,
> 
> Truly an amazing piece of machinery. Most likely the best snow rig out there made from pickup truck parts.
> 
> If you had to take a guess...
> 
> What do you think your total layout of $$ was
> 
> And
> 
> Number of hours put into it ?
> 
> Not looking for exact.... just a ballpark would be great...
> 
> Truly amazing work you do up there.
> 
> Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up


thanks guys
i have about 13K into thw whole rig. Time, no idea, I did it in about 14 months working weekends and after work for an hour or two.


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## 1olddogtwo

Wow, I can't believe I've missed this whole thread.

I vote the best plow truck ever on PS.

Are you going to paint the plows?


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## Freshwater

Gorgeous, amazing work. I love that body style. If I'm ever in Alaska, think I can drive it?


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## Mr.Markus

Subscribing ...late.

Contemplating moving to Alaska...

Maybe just putting some lights under my truck...


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## scottr

1olddogtwo;2064652 said:


> Wow, I can't believe I've missed this whole thread.
> 
> I vote the best plow truck ever on PS.
> 
> Are you going to paint the plows?


Ha, it was fun to build and even more fun to use. Yes I plan to paint them, I have a line on a couple gallons of Imron Yellow that I can get for free. I think Yellow or red would look good.


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## scottr

Freshwater;2064678 said:


> Gorgeous, amazing work. I love that body style. If I'm ever in Alaska, think I can drive it?


Yes, Plan a fishing or hunting trip and swing by and run a tank thru it ( dosent take long)Thumbs Up


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## Dogplow Dodge

1olddogtwo;2064652 said:


> Wow,
> 
> I vote the best plow truck ever on PS.


Agreed



scottr;2064635 said:


> thanks guys
> i have about 13K into thw whole rig. Time, no idea, I did it in about 14 months working weekends and after work for an hour or two.


Inspiration to others......


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## snoworks1

Hands down the best thread on this site. I enjoyed reading/looking at every page!!!!


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## TJS

scottr;2064394 said:


> with ram mounted


Scott,
I do like your design of this for adapting for a rear plow. If you do not mind I think I am going to use it maybe for a rear plow build I want to do, probably next season. Thanks again for the great build.
T.J.


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## GMCHD plower

Probably the coolest plow truck build I have ever seen. Great Job!


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## Squires

Came over for a look from the storm pictures.
This thing is awesome
Time very well "wasted"


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## 91AK250

Holy crap that truck is amazing, great build and I don't know how I missed it!

I'm planning a trip to Chena in January (ish) Maybe I can catch up with you and take a look at this beast in person.

Great job, amazing craftsmanship!


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## DieselSlug

Agreed! Phenomenal build!


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## CAT 245ME

You should send your complete build information to Peterson's 4wheel & Off Road Magazine.

The build is very unique and stands out very well on it's own, you just never know you might get a full feature in their magazine. You've built something that's stands out on it's own that's for sure. I applaud those who can build their own instead of buying a new one.


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## mwalsh9152

theres nothing like a 1 ton Bronco with big torque for plowing! Small enough to fit just about anywhere, and throw enough ballast in it and it will push through anything too. I think they are just about the ultimate driveway rig.


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## scottr

Cat Man, Could be kinda fun to see it in the pages, I'll give it some thought.
Looks like your into Dozers. Here's a shot of my buddies 9R, I have about 100 hrs in the seat of it. Boy she can push !!


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## mwalsh9152

Scott, Ive been talking to a friend about the possibility of closing off my cab like you did, I have a concern though. When I get in my friends 97 F-250, I feel like a gorilla on a tricycle with the regular cab configuration. I feel that I have way more cockpit room in my Bronco in comparison. Did you lose any drivers seating space closing the cab in?


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## scottr

mwalsh9152;2115327 said:


> Scott, Ive been talking to a friend about the possibility of closing off my cab like you did, I have a concern though. When I get in my friends 97 F-250, I feel like a gorilla on a tricycle with the regular cab configuration. I feel that I have way more cockpit room in my Bronco in comparison. Did you lose any drivers seating space closing the cab in?


With the amount of cab I added, I have about 12" of floor space behind my seate for tool bags, jackets, etc. But, that space is effectively less at the back of your head as the seats lean back. I'm 6'1" but have shorter legs and run my seat about half way up the slides.
Not sure if this helps. This picture shows my seat in about the middle.


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## mwalsh9152

Thanks! That gives a good perspective. We were just talking about it again, and we both thought put an extend cab section in it. But I cant imagine how awkward that would look.


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## scottr

mwalsh9152;2115538 said:


> Thanks! That gives a good perspective. We were just talking about it again, and we both thought put an extend cab section in it. But I cant imagine how awkward that would look.


I think your right, mine looks a bit off as it is.


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## mwalsh9152

I think that it would be ok like yours, the B pillar is much wider than on a truck, that should give enough space. Too much space just ends up accumulating crap


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## Rat_Power_78

Have you done anything to finish off the interior, especially behind the seats where you closed it off? Don't think I saw it in the pictures anywhere.


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## Hysert

Wow.. you have an incredible truck there!!! Your fabrication is top notch!! It's imo to nice to get it dirty


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## scottr

Rat_Power_78;2115999 said:


> Have you done anything to finish off the interior, especially behind the seats where you closed it off? Don't think I saw it in the pictures anywhere.


Rat, the interior walls, floor, etc. all got a layer of grace ice and water shield, it's the poor mans sound deadening material. Then the OEM carpet. I saved a lot of the trim from the bronco and the f 150 however not much of it mated up or fit the contours correct. I was able to use a large back panel from the 150. 
In the photos you can see I used some outdoor carpet that matches the interior, used large magnets to hold pieces in place and played a heat gun over it to get to fit and lay into corners, etc. I used 3M Hi Tack spray adhesive to attach it.
I didn't take very good pictures, sorry.


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## scottr

Another shot


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## scottr

Hysert;2116051 said:


> Wow.. you have an incredible truck there!!! Your fabrication is top notch!! It's imo to nice to get it dirty


Thanks Hysert, It's just a plow rig, made to work Thumbs Up


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## TJS

Scott,
I sent you a PM. 
T.J.


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## scottr

TJS;2116177 said:


> Scott,
> I sent you a PM.
> T.J.


TJ, no PM showing up so far, maybe server trouble? Will check again a little later


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## scottr

My daughter got me new plates for my birthday, OK, everybody say awhhhhhhh, that's cute !!


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## TJS

scottr;2116200 said:


> TJ, no PM showing up so far, maybe server trouble? Will check again a little later


Just resent it.


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## BUFF

mwalsh9152;2115538 said:


> Thanks! That gives a good perspective. We were just talking about it again, and we both thought put an extend cab section in it. But I cant imagine how awkward that would look.


A friend added a extend cab to his '79, the extra room was nice but it'd looked pretty messed up and the bed was about 3.5' long.


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## Lockman75

scottr said:


> Rig works awesome
> 
> View attachment 133360


That 's some mighty handsome Fab & Welding skills there, 
my Friend. Nice ........VeryNice.


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