# Snow Ex problem



## Kosty

my snow ex pivot pro 1075 is having a few problems. 
1st problem is when i load a fresh load of bagged salt and go to turn the unit on it says that overload on the controller whats causing that problem? if i go and spin the disk around a few times and some salt falls down it works fine.
2nd problem is that the plug for the salter keeps falling out of the plug that i got attached to the truck?

I was wondering if anyone rewired the salter connectors to a 4 pin trailer plug and if it worked


----------



## fernalddude

*Trash that plug*

The snow ex conectors suck this is what we use this.
http://www.centralparts.com/PDFs/Meyer/37010 Mini 1-721.pdf


----------



## Kosty

fernalddude said:


> The snow ex conectors suck this is what we use this.
> http://www.centralparts.com/PDFs/Meyer/37010 Mini 1-721.pdf


are their only two wires that come out of the salter motor.

I was thinking of using the trailer plug of 4 wire connector its like the 7 way connector.

Fernalddude do u know what could cause the other problem


----------



## hickslawns

First check to see you have power to the motor. If you have power, then make sure you have a good ground. I know it sounds simple, but sometimes the most simple problem can give you the biggest headache. We had similar problems earlier this year. Found our problem to be the extra wire out of the back of the controller running to the fuse box. Unfortunately one of my buddies cut off the plug running to the spreader thinking it was a bad plug. Thanks buddy! lol $30+ dollars later I have a new plug. Next time it is getting a different (cheaper) plug.

The other problem could be internal bearings. Not sure about the inside of these motors but I would guess they have some bearings around the shaft somewhere. If they get too corroded it can really make the motor work hard. Eventually you'll wear out the motor or it will throw the overload because you have power going to a motor that won't turn due to stuck bearings. Good luck!


----------



## fernalddude

the first check is for power and it is there cuz the spinner works.
so with only one bag of dry chemical in hopper there is to much load on the controller and it goes into overload.
hickslawns has some possible problems right it might be more than just the plugs.
How old is the unit ? if the bearings are froze this would cause more load on the controller and the one bag might be just enough to go into overload.
so you got to do some checking for other problems.
The motor is variable speed drive just 2 wires got to it it is controled by controler. I only use controlers on 2 of my rigs the others are full on with just a switch 90% of the time i just run full out.If you do this you need a 30 amp switch to run it. So i would start looking for other probs. the drawings are ruff but they would work if you try taking it apart. 
(prev post)Ok guys cant get dad's drawing to load up on the site to big by pixels so here are the bearing numbers FAF9102PP you need 2 Seal 15x32x7TC plus a frez plug i can email the drawing if you need it drop me a pm.... http://www.cinbelt.com/
is the place where i got mine just called them here are my prices bearing 15 bucks seal 5 bucks
Its a PITA to pull apart the first time but after that about 2 hours to rebuild from the start to finish that includes taking it of the spreader.. PS use never sez when ya put it back together and make sure you get the keyway in right


----------



## elmo1537

*Just an idea*

I have a 1075 also and I had that problem. I dont know what kind of deicer you are using but I use magic salt. The problem with magic is that it is quite a bit heavier than regular bag salt. After I would load the hopper full. I would get an overload on the controller also. I found that it was because by the time I was done loading the hopper it settled enough around the auger so it wouldnt allow it to turn anymore. My solution at the time was before I started the spinner I would give it a couple of spins by hand and it always worked. Later on I got a vibrator and installed it because the magic kept sticking in the hopper and it wouldnt empty. When I started using the vibrator my problem with the auger getting jammed completely stopped. Moral of the story is that although I had a similar problem it may not be the same as your problem. Just thought that this might help.

Tony


----------



## Kosty

fernalddude said:


> the first check is for power and it is there cuz the spinner works.
> so with only one bag of dry chemical in hopper there is to much load on the controller and it goes into overload.
> hickslawns has some possible problems right it might be more than just the plugs.
> How old is the unit ? if the bearings are froze this would cause more load on the controller and the one bag might be just enough to go into overload.
> so you got to do some checking for other problems.
> The motor is variable speed drive just 2 wires got to it it is controled by controler. I only use controlers on 2 of my rigs the others are full on with just a switch 90% of the time i just run full out.If you do this you need a 30 amp switch to run it. So i would start looking for other probs. the drawings are ruff but they would work if you try taking it apart.
> (prev post)Ok guys cant get dad's drawing to load up on the site to big by pixels so here are the bearing numbers FAF9102PP you need 2 Seal 15x32x7TC plus a frez plug i can email the drawing if you need it drop me a pm.... http://www.cinbelt.com/
> is the place where i got mine just called them here are my prices bearing 15 bucks seal 5 bucks
> Its a PITA to pull apart the first time but after that about 2 hours to rebuild from the start to finish that includes taking it of the spreader.. PS use never sez when ya put it back together and make sure you get the keyway in right


The Unit Is only a year and a few months old. i bought it 2nd hand from a guy he said he got it last january ive had this problem since i got it but now its getting worse. im thinking ur right that its the bearings.


----------



## PaleRider

*rebuilding a classic *

:salute: Fernaldude
I bought the Snow Ex I spoke of earlier. The serial # is 
A1-310545. From your readings I'd say you've been around Snow Ex for a while? Looking over my basket case, I see you few things I'd like to change. I have access to stainless were I work. I'm going to make a stainless 10" disk, I'd like to make up an auger of stainless, can't decide what would be the best for this?? I thought about drilling through a coupler and run a 4" / 5" ? 1/4" piece of stainless rod through it? Also inside the main frame where the motor and transmission are assembled, has moisture in it. I thought about maybe putting a small zinc used on outboard motors to draw the moisture away from those costly parts payup My last thougt is to sand blast the rust and repaint using marine grade bottom paint. What are your thoughts on all this? Did I see up a little that you use a Meyers wiring harness? How about the controller? I don't have a Snow Ex dealer near me but, I do have a Meyers guys and of course Western xysport. Thanks for allllllll your imput.

Pale Rider


----------



## fernalddude

Yes I have to say I like the snow ex but I do have buyers and meyers also The controlers are all the same but the new snow ex digital numbers one has more wires all they are is a large variable resistor.So for 500 bucks its a bit expenssive when you can just put in a switch most of my lots are large and I almost always runn full out so it works for me might not for others. On the sand blasting and marine paint sounds great I break mine down every summer and repaint them a extra coat of paint goes along way. The stainless auger sounds good but you have to have it balanced so it does not kill the bearings. I just keep mine in good working order i did paint with mine with the rubber paint once worked ok but returned to good old rustolem with some more coats of clear. If i was to change anything else i would put a clean out door on the side. Repairing the bearing's is a pain at first but it gets easy if you just take your time. It's a pain to spend the money for repairs that are not needed but some sand and paint goes a long way..They 1075 and 575 are the same drive dystems..


----------



## golden arches

I have a new 575 and it does exactly the same thing. I just get out and spin it by hand the first time. 

Interesting it only does it on the first load up. Subsequent fill up work fine. 

Too bad SnowEx doesn't read the thread.. they have a very good product, but need some adjustments.


----------



## fernalddude

Ok who has got the parts to repair there salter yet ?


----------



## basher

Kosty said:


> 2nd problem is that the plug for the salter keeps falling out of the plug that i got attached to the truck?
> 
> I was wondering if anyone rewired the salter connectors to a 4 pin trailer plug and if it worked


4 pin trailer plugs don't have a enough load capacity. Try a Powerwinch or a Superwinch Plug. Both are a much nicer plug then the molded rubber plugs. You need something rated at least 40 amps (30 amp draw and some safety room.) The powerwinch plug has a door and can be bracket mounted. Use lots of dielectric grease. either one is available at any truck or trailer accessory shop, or lots of places online.

About #1: do you load and then drive around? if so compaction will bind the shaft.


----------



## rcpd34

golden arches said:


> I have a new 575 and it does exactly the same thing. I just get out and spin it by hand the first time.
> 
> Interesting it only does it on the first load up. Subsequent fill up work fine.
> 
> Too bad SnowEx doesn't read the thread.. they have a very good product, but need some adjustments.


All the tailgate units do this. I just spin it by hand and go on down the road. No, they probably don't read this site or get on theinternet much. In fact, they just got their first _FAX machine_ a coupla years ago! They are an interesting group.


----------



## Bob Church

Karrier Company responded to requests just like yours with the introduction of the Rhino harness systems and Omega motor controllers. Both come with a 2 year warranty and will fix the problem your having without adding headaches. The Rhino is a plug-n-play harness system from the battery to the spreader motor and the Omega 1030 is a state of the art controller that makes the 1075 run better than when it was new. If you want to run bulk salt in your 1075 just add a standard Sure-Flow vibrator and you'll have a spreading beast on your hands that will give you years of outstanding performance.

You can check out these spreader performance parts on our website. www.karrierco.com
These performance parts come packaged in a combo pack for extra savings. 
Please call with questions.

Bob Church
President,
Karrier Company
800-709-4434


----------



## kipcom

The motor needs to be kept lubricated even when sitting ( ya I know its enclosed, but apply it too the shaft ) they are a bit under powered, but keep the shaft lubed and all is good. 1 person mentioned the "ground" wire...yes yes yes, make sure you have a GOOD ground on the vehicle it makes a big difference in Amp draw and how the motor functions.


----------



## Bob Church

*Motor Performance*

I've noticed that some OEMs include a 25 foot long chassis harness with their spreaders. When the installation is made, sometimes the extra wire is coil up and secure it to the vehicle frame. Wire has resistance which robs your motor of the voltage. So, if your harness is 12AWG wire the voltage loss over the entire system at 25 amps (when you are spreading, not just running it empty in your garage) is about 4.8 volts. So if the motor was wound to give you lets say .26hp out at 12 VDC and 25 amps, what your seeing is .19hp out at 8.8 VDC. That's a huge loss in the fractional horsepower motor business. With 10AWG wire the estimated voltage at the motor is about 10 volts. This doesn't take into consideration the losses due to bad connections at the battery, controller, bumper and motor.

All the little losses can add up to what seens to be a weak motor. The only thing you can do without spending money is remove all the coiled up wire from your harness and clean your connections.

Bob Church
President,
Karrier Company
Ph: 800-709-4434
www.karrierco.com
Home of Sure-Flow Vibrators, Rhino Wiring Harnesses and Omega Controllers for Salt Spreaders. _*You'll love the way we make your spreader work!*_


----------



## DAPLOWKING

fernalddude;287946 said:


> the first check is for power and it is there cuz the spinner works.
> so with only one bag of dry chemical in hopper there is to much load on the controller and it goes into overload.
> hickslawns has some possible problems right it might be more than just the plugs.
> How old is the unit ? if the bearings are froze this would cause more load on the controller and the one bag might be just enough to go into overload.
> so you got to do some checking for other problems.
> The motor is variable speed drive just 2 wires got to it it is controled by controler. I only use controlers on 2 of my rigs the others are full on with just a switch 90% of the time i just run full out.If you do this you need a 30 amp switch to run it. So i would start looking for other probs. the drawings are ruff but they would work if you try taking it apart.
> (prev post)Ok guys cant get dad's drawing to load up on the site to big by pixels so here are the bearing numbers FAF9102PP you need 2 Seal 15x32x7TC plus a frez plug i can email the drawing if you need it drop me a pm.... http://www.cinbelt.com/
> is the place where i got mine just called them here are my prices bearing 15 bucks seal 5 bucks
> Its a PITA to pull apart the first time but after that about 2 hours to rebuild from the start to finish that includes taking it of the spreader.. PS use never sez when ya put it back together and make sure you get the keyway in right


Fernalddude, great insight into the rebuilding of the trans on the Snow Ex 575. I had a problem with the trans bearing on my 575 and have got it apart.I need some info on the bearing, seals and key way that I want to order.Can you e mail me at [email protected] and point me in the right direction? I would greatly appreciate your help. Thanks in advance.

Larry Rhodes AKA DAPLOWKING:waving:


----------



## snowguys

hey kosty i also have a 1075 i kinda had the same problem with the salt try useing spray silicone in the salter before you use it you have to make shre its clean before you spray it . i dont know if that will help but it worked for me and for you 2 problem check where you put the plug to see if it in a weird shot i have mine under my bumber and i have no problem with it i could take a pic if you wanna see and there should be rubber in side the plug to hold it in place ...........well i hope you can fix your problem good luck


----------



## Lynch & Sons Landscapin

*Spinner Issue*

I believe the issue with spinning the auger is just a lack of low end torque inherent in the design of the spreader. I say inherant because it is the auger spinner, etc., off of one small electric motor. I have the same issue and believe it is unavoidable to happen occasionally.

However,

To keep things well lubricated and bearings in good conditions will definately minimize the issue and prolong the overall life of the unit...


----------



## DAPLOWKING

fernalddude;287946 said:


> the first check is for power and it is there cuz the spinner works.
> so with only one bag of dry chemical in hopper there is to much load on the controller and it goes into overload.
> hickslawns has some possible problems right it might be more than just the plugs.
> How old is the unit ? if the bearings are froze this would cause more load on the controller and the one bag might be just enough to go into overload.
> so you got to do some checking for other problems.
> The motor is variable speed drive just 2 wires got to it it is controled by controler. I only use controlers on 2 of my rigs the others are full on with just a switch 90% of the time i just run full out.If you do this you need a 30 amp switch to run it. So i would start looking for other probs. the drawings are ruff but they would work if you try taking it apart.
> (prev post)Ok guys cant get dad's drawing to load up on the site to big by pixels so here are the bearing numbers FAF9102PP you need 2 Seal 15x32x7TC plus a frez plug i can email the drawing if you need it drop me a pm.... http://www.cinbelt.com/
> is the place where i got mine just called them here are my prices bearing 15 bucks seal 5 bucks
> Its a PITA to pull apart the first time but after that about 2 hours to rebuild from the start to finish that includes taking it of the spreader.. PS use never sez when ya put it back together and make sure you get the keyway in right


Fernaldudue, can you help me out with info on the small set screw and the key way and where to get them? Please check your PM's. Thanks.


----------



## Snoozeworm

I know this is an old post but for anyone ending up here from a google search check out my post where I describe the rebuild process and offer the parts to do so!

https://www.plowsite.com/threads/sn...nsmisson-gearbox-rebuild.171579/#post-2229230


----------

