# 2004 2500HD Steering Shaft



## Motorman 007 (Jan 11, 2005)

So my steering shaft rattle is getting really bad now that the truck is 7 years old. I had 2 shafts done under warranty but apparently they never figured out the problem. Is the "kit" that repairs it available and where? Is it a big deal to do? Thanks!!


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## SD Cookman (Jun 5, 2009)

Motorman 007;1092403 said:


> So my steering shaft rattle is getting really bad now that the truck is 7 years old. I had 2 shafts done under warranty but apparently they never figured out the problem. Is the "kit" that repairs it available and where? Is it a big deal to do? Thanks!!


I would like info as well, I've done mine once and it is needed again.I also have a 04 2500HD 
I also did the 
tie rods
idler arm
pitman arm
two front wheel bearings
This is just the front end....I could list a lot more .. :angry:

Don't get me started on the Transmission :realmad:


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## SServices (Feb 25, 2010)

Check the steering shaft bearing in the steering column. I had the same problem in my 05, the shaft wasn't the problem. The bearing wiggles inside the housing, causing the thumping. Pretty easy fix. Grab the shaft under the dash and move it back and forth if you hear a thump or any slop that's it.


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## KSikkema (Oct 7, 2008)

you will need to remove the intermediate steering shaft and apply more grease onto the splines. There is a special grease kit available from GM, but we have used regular grease many times with the same results. Just apply lots of grease onto the splines, re-install and voila, noise gone!


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

voi·là
   /vwɑˈlɑ; Fr. vwaˈla/ Show Spelled[vwah-lah; Fr. vwa-la] Show IPA
-interjection
(used to express success or satisfaction). Voilà, my new winter outfit!
Use voila in a Sentence
See images of voila
Search voila on the Web
Also, voi·la .

Origin:
1825-35; < F, equiv. to voi see! (2nd pers. sing. impv. of voir to see) + la there

-Can be confused:  viola, voilà .


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## stacks04 (Jan 22, 2008)

RichG53;1092597 said:


> voi·là
> /vwɑˈlɑ; Fr. vwaˈla/ Show Spelled[vwah-lah; Fr. vwa-la] Show IPA
> -interjection
> (used to express success or satisfaction). Voilà, my new winter outfit!
> ...


I never understood the point of this stuff


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

KSikkema;1092457 said:


> you will need to remove the intermediate steering shaft and apply more grease onto the splines. There is a special grease kit available from GM, but we have used regular grease many times with the same results. Just apply lots of grease onto the splines, re-install and voila, noise gone!


If u like greasing ur shaft every 6 months go for it. Id opt to blow the whole 50 on a updated dorman shaft and never have to worry about again But thats just me.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Motorman 007;1092403 said:


> So my steering shaft rattle is getting really bad now that the truck is 7 years old. I had 2 shafts done under warranty but apparently they never figured out the problem. Is the "kit" that repairs it available and where? Is it a big deal to do? Thanks!!


Yep takes all of 20 min and $50 to never hear the noise again.Or if u like blowing time u can keep re greasing it ever 6 months or a year. Some people have to much time aparently.


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## Motorman 007 (Jan 11, 2005)

brad96z28;1092749 said:


> Yep takes all of 20 min and $50 to never hear the noise again.Or if u like blowing time u can keep re greasing it ever 6 months or a year. Some people have to much time aparently.


Well I'm not one of them. Where can I get the Dohrman shaft?


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Motorman 007;1092909 said:


> Well I'm not one of them. Where can I get the Dohrman shaft?


Car quest for sure. And any other parts stores that carry the dorman line. Intermediate steering shaft is what u want. U can see the difference in the way the splines are made to elimnate the clunk heard when the grease wears out. I would make sure not to mess up the clock spring. Lock the steering wheel so it does not turn when it is disconnected prefferable in a posision where u can get at the bolts in the shaft. The bolt should require a 15 mm socket/wrench.: Also when u remove it from under the dash u might need to colapse the shaft the get it out from under the dash.

Its 44.00 on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-425-176-Intermediate-Steering-Shaft/dp/B000Q0K5SQ


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## Motorman 007 (Jan 11, 2005)

brad96z28;1092919 said:


> Car quest for sure. And any other parts stores that carry the dorman line. Intermediate steering shaft is what u want. U can see the difference in the way the splines are made to elimnate the clunk heard when the grease wears out. I would make sure not to mess up the clock spring. Lock the steering wheel so it does not turn when it is disconnected prefferable in a posision where u can get at the bolts in the shaft. The bolt should require a 15 mm socket/wrench.: Also when u remove it from under the dash u might need to colapse the shaft the get it out from under the dash.
> 
> Its 44.00 on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-425-176-Intermediate-Steering-Shaft/dp/B000Q0K5SQ


THANKS I appreciate it.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

No problem I actually got to put on another one today also.


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## rich414 (Jan 4, 2010)

I have a 3500hd. there is a plastic thing above the brake peddle that I replaces, but I grabbed the steering wheel to get my self up off the floor board and spun the wheel which broke the springs in the air bag, which cost $300 to get the springs repaired by the dealer...DONT SPIN THE STEERING WHEEL.... my steering column is rattling again....

its amazing how the dealer had 10 of these parts on the shelf...maybe chevy should step up and accept that there is still a part design failure...


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## stacks04 (Jan 22, 2008)

Guys do a google search, there is a way to drill a hole and tap it and thread in a grease fitting to grease it yourself. I have heard this happens with good result. I tried it and have yet to install it into the truck.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

stacks04;1093525 said:


> Guys do a google search, there is a way to drill a hole and tap it and thread in a grease fitting to grease it yourself. I have heard this happens with good result. I tried it and have yet to install it into the truck.


Dont want to part with 44 bucks to never have to grease it again? payup


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

rich414;1093501 said:


> I have a 3500hd. there is a plastic thing above the brake peddle that I replaces, but I grabbed the steering wheel to get my self up off the floor board and spun the wheel which broke the springs in the air bag, which cost $300 to get the springs repaired by the dealer...DONT SPIN THE STEERING WHEEL.... my steering column is rattling again....
> 
> its amazing how the dealer had 10 of these parts on the shelf...maybe chevy should step up and accept that there is still a part design failure...


That would be the clock spring that I mentioned above.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

SServices;1092416 said:


> Check the steering shaft bearing in the steering column. I had the same problem in my 05, the shaft wasn't the problem. The bearing wiggles inside the housing, causing the thumping. Pretty easy fix. Grab the shaft under the dash and move it back and forth if you hear a thump or any slop that's it.


Here's what B&B told me a while ago if this was the shaft bearing:

Pretty self explanatory. Just a 1/4" bolt and jamb nut to push in on the bushing thus keeping the play out of it between it and the column tube. The tube isn't very thick (about the thickness of a piece of exhaust tubing) but you don't need more than a thread or two to do the job since you're not trying to grossly squeeze the bearing, just remove the play. Some guys will also slice the tube lengthwise with a Dremel tool and them add a hose clamp around it to tighten it up around the bearing. Both methods work well.


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

GM has had steering shaft problems for years. I had to have the one replaced in my 98 K1500 when it was fairly new and I think it might need another one now. 

The 2004 Monte Carlo SS I bought last year has a noisy steering shaft that needs to be replaced and I guess its a common problem on these cars.

I don't understand it, its not like GM hasn't been putting steering columns in vehicles for years. You would think they could get it right by now.

Wayne


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## samjr (Mar 18, 2008)

*#00-02-35-003N: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or St*

#00-02-35-003N: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) - (Mar 26, 2008)

Subject:	Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft [I-Shaft] Assembly)

Models:	2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)

2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models

2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)

2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models

2003-2006 HUMMER H2
Attention:	This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
This bulletin is being revised to add diagnostic information (refer to Diagnostic Tips) to check the lower steering column bearing as a potential source of the noise. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003M (Section 02 -- Steering).
Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips

Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise. 
•	The lower steering column bearing may create the same noise as the intermediate shaft. Before replacing the I-shaft, verify the noise isn't being caused by movement from the lower steering column bearing. Check the bearing for movement by pushing up and down on the I-shaft where it attaches to the steering column.
•	Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
•	Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Correction

DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
Important:
•	I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
•	Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.

Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.

For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.

From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1.	Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

6.2.	Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.

6.3.	Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.

From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1.	From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.

8.2.	From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.Tighten 
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.Tighten 
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1.	Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.

14.2.	Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten 
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3.	Reposition the carpet into place.
Parts Information

Part Number
Description
19153614
Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Upper -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN


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## samjr (Mar 18, 2008)

*heres a PDF*

heres a better look @ it


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## OMGWTFBBQ (Sep 23, 2009)

I just took mine out once, cleaned all the grease out, put some clear silicone on the splines, and reassembled. Never goes bad, and will still compress the shaft in an accident, but stops the noise forever.

Cost me nothing, since I used a tube from sealing around the sink and was going to toss it out anyway.

Some people make everything more work, and more money than it needs to be.


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## rich414 (Jan 4, 2010)

dumb question - "Service Bulletin" Does this mean that GM will step up and cover the cost or is this an advisory on how to correct the issue and owner responsible for the cost??


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

Thank You !!!::salute:


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

brad96z28;1092749 said:


> Yep takes all of 20 min and $50 to never hear the noise again.Or if u like blowing time u can keep re greasing it ever 6 months or a year. Some people have to much time aparently.


Where's a good place to get the shaft? How hard is the install?


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## samjr (Mar 18, 2008)

*I found a good spot today*



mkwl;1096541 said:


> Where's a good place to get the shaft? How hard is the install?


pm if u want the web site its real cool put your vin in and your good to go


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## mrplow5885 (Jan 30, 2009)

i have an 05 2500hd. i had 2 shafts put in under warranty, and 1 on my own a few months ago. recent one helped but did not completely fix problem. did some more digging and found u-joint at steering box was shot. found by grabbing i shaft and turning while watching joint at box. it looked like a bad driveshaft u-joint. just another place to look.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

mkwl;1096541 said:


> Where's a good place to get the shaft? How hard is the install?


Car quest or any place that sells dorman products. Should take 10 20 min on a bad day. Also follow previous advise to keep the wheel locked by any means nessary.


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## bcbrouwer (Oct 25, 2010)

here is what I did. very easy and stopped the clunk that has been in my truck since I bought it. one grease firring, one tube of grease and some expandable foam in the end of the shaft to keep the grease into the splines. so simple, take nothing apart. read about the procedure here and scroll down for pics.

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php?22312-Steering-clunk-fix


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## stacks04 (Jan 22, 2008)

brad96z28;1093584 said:


> Dont want to part with 44 bucks to never have to grease it again? payup


I honestly did not read your prior post. I missed and an now just seeing it. I will look into it for sure. I work at the dealer so I have a regular rotation of them if need be but have never changed mine. It never rattled until about 2 months ago when I did the steering box on the truck, now it rattles all the time. Thanks for the link.


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## QuadRacer041 (Sep 1, 2003)

brad96z28;1092919 said:


> Car quest for sure. And any other parts stores that carry the dorman line. Intermediate steering shaft is what u want. U can see the difference in the way the splines are made to elimnate the clunk heard when the grease wears out. I would make sure not to mess up the clock spring. Lock the steering wheel so it does not turn when it is disconnected prefferable in a posision where u can get at the bolts in the shaft. The bolt should require a 15 mm socket/wrench.: Also when u remove it from under the dash u might need to colapse the shaft the get it out from under the dash.
> 
> Its 44.00 on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-425-176-Intermediate-Steering-Shaft/dp/B000Q0K5SQ


The directions that have been posted here say this:

Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed
from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is
used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use
the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

I have an 06 which accourding to this does not have a steering column lock. I there a way to lock the wheel without that tool?


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## QuadRacer041 (Sep 1, 2003)

samjr;1096899 said:


> pm if u want the web site its real cool put your vin in and your good to go


What # is the column bearing?


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

QuadRacer041;1102859 said:


> The directions that have been posted here say this:
> 
> Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed
> from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is
> ...


 I use a tool that wedges between the seat and the steering wheel. Maybe could wrap the seat belt around the wheel a couple times then clip it in. thats what the tow truck drivers do to keep the wheel from turning while in tow.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

stacks04;1102553 said:


> I honestly did not read your prior post. I missed and an now just seeing it. I will look into it for sure. I work at the dealer so I have a regular rotation of them if need be but have never changed mine. It never rattled until about 2 months ago when I did the steering box on the truck, now it rattles all the time. Thanks for the link.


I gave up on the dealer shafts It only tool them about 8 years or so to come out with a replacement shaft that might take care of the clunk for good.I bet its more then 44.00, There bandaid fixes have been poor to say the least.


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## stacks04 (Jan 22, 2008)

QuadRacer041;1102859 said:


> The directions that have been posted here say this:
> 
> Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed
> from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is
> ...


I usually remove the outer bolt first leaving the upper shaft in lower, then go under the dash remove the bolt, but not slide the shaft out of the column. Then I get a nice size piece of masking tape wrap around the wheel a couple times then over to the top of the dash pad. Go outside remove the lower to intermediate shaft then go under the dash and remove it from the column. Pull it through the firewall, reinstall the new one and reconnect everything. Once both sides have been reinstalled you can remove the tape and turn the wheel to the proper spots and tighten the bolts.


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

Masking Tape == A Mechanics friend:..


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

brad96z28;1098664 said:


> Car quest or any place that sells dorman products. Should take 10 20 min on a bad day. Also follow previous advise to keep the wheel locked by any means nessary.


Okay thanks- I just saw the link for amazon- I assume that's the correct part #? Anything else needed to replace the shaft (I saw something about a locking pin, spring?)

When you say locked, I assume you mean locked all the way left, or all the way right? Have someone hold it in that position?


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

mkwl;1104519 said:


> Okay thanks- I just saw the link for amazon- I assume that's the correct part #? Anything else needed to replace the shaft (I saw something about a locking pin, spring?)
> 
> When you say locked, I assume you mean locked all the way left, or all the way right? Have someone hold it in that position?


Can lock the wheel in any position that u would like prefferablly in a postion that i can get at the bolt head at the top of the shaft and the bottom. U are just locking the wheel to make sure that u dont turn it unnessarly when it becomes disconnected if it stays in the same spot u wont damage the clock spring.


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## QuadRacer041 (Sep 1, 2003)

SServices;1092416 said:


> Check the steering shaft bearing in the steering column. I had the same problem in my 05, the shaft wasn't the problem. The bearing wiggles inside the housing, causing the thumping. Pretty easy fix. Grab the shaft under the dash and move it back and forth if you hear a thump or any slop that's it.


The bearing is in that housing right above where the shaft bolts to the column right? CAre to explain how to change it?


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## QuadRacer041 (Sep 1, 2003)

tuney443;1093628 said:


> Here's what B&B told me a while ago if this was the shaft bearing:
> 
> Pretty self explanatory. Just a 1/4" bolt and jamb nut to push in on the bushing thus keeping the play out of it between it and the column tube. The tube isn't very thick (about the thickness of a piece of exhaust tubing) but you don't need more than a thread or two to do the job since you're not trying to grossly squeeze the bearing, just remove the play. Some guys will also slice the tube lengthwise with a Dremel tool and them add a hose clamp around it to tighten it up around the bearing. Both methods work well.


Where do I drill and install the jamb nut?


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## 2004chevy2500hd (Dec 19, 2010)

Guys - I just want to replace the *lower* intermediate shaft on my 2004 2500HD. (referencing an earlier post regarding a bad u-joint - right above the steering box). If I just need to replace this shaft - I just need to be aware of the steering wheel not turning, correct? Meaning that I don't need to do anything inside the truck (aside from locking the wheel)? Just under the hood, correct? I am getting corn-fused b/c it looks like there is the TSB for the *intermediate shaft replacement *- which requires quite a bit of work - which is not what I want - I can see that my u-joint is bad on this lower shaft -

Is it as easy as keeping the wheel locked/straight and then removing the 15mm bolt (near the firewall) and then the pinch-bolt near the steering box? ...and then do the swap and then bolting everything back together?


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## rich414 (Jan 4, 2010)

dont let the wheel turn it will cost you a lot at the dealer. my wheel turned and broke the spring thingie and the dealer have to fix it. LOCK the wheel


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