# Warning For Torsion Bars



## kemmer

After talking to my mechanic today about torsions bars i learned that you shouldnt turn them up all the way. The reason for this is because when you have them extended so much you are extending your shocks and they will not allow as much drop as usual because they have extended more.. When you go over a bump or dip you may over extend them and damage or break them. So he recommended 3-4 max, if you want more lift get a lift kit.


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## Antnee77

That's not even half the battle. The shock problem can be solved by replacing the crappy stocks with longer Bilsteins. The other issue is that when you max out your torsion keys, you're putting much more stress on the front steering/suspension components, and your CV axles are now on an angle and aren't getting lubed adequately. It isn't good to crank them much at all over the stock height.


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## eng50

Just curious, if its that bad, why would the dealer level the truck for me when I took delivery? This involved 5 turns on one side and three on the other, I watched it being done! They said that the trucks settle out after they are assembled and that dealers are allowed to level the trucks on request.

Bill


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## kemmer

Well your shocks can only go so far before breaking


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## bowtie_guy

On my 98 I have them cranked to the max. Leveled the truck first then added a 2" block in the back and raised the front to be level. 

Shocks are longer and CV angles arn't the best but I have seen worse. When the CV's go bad just buy a set with lifetime warrenty and then exchange when needed. Worst thing about cranking is the upper ball joints wear faster. 

I've been running this truck like this for 3 years now.

Just leveling is fine.


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## Bad Luck

Just about maxxed on mine for over two years. No issues, yet, and the truck has seen some pretty f'ed up roads here in NJ. Not to mention the occasional blast through the back woods. I'm sure that this can be a problem, but I am yet to hear anyone post about it.


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## B&B

Ok Bad luck, I guess I'll post the first one! LOL I just fixed a guys truck a couple of weeks ago that ran it with the bar's turned up all year round. It was a 99' K2500 with an 8.2 Boss V. After he installed the plow 3 year's ago he turned up the bars to relevel the truck. It still had the stock shocks on it....it didn't damage the shocks.....IT TORE THE UPPER SHOCK BRACKETS RIGHT OFF THE FRAME ON BOTH SIDES!! In the prosses the bracket took some of the frame with it! The guy call's me up and says he has a noise in the front end of his truck when he goes over a bump.He brings the truck out and I take a look at it and I said " Yea, I guess you would have a noise!"


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## JeffNY

My '94 has has them turned up to the max for 3 years now, and I just turned my new truck up 5 3/4 turns. I'll post when something "breaks"


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## lawnmasters2006

The Whole Ideais To Turn Them Up In The Winter,an Turn Back Down After Winter...if U Turn The Up To Far,the Truck Ack Like I T Is On A Poggo Stick In Front,bouncing Up An Down ...means U Turned Them Up To Far..


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## Bad Luck

lawnmasters2006 said:


> The Whole Ideais To Turn Them Up In The Winter,an Turn Back Down After Winter...if U Turn The Up To Far,the Truck Ack Like I T Is On A Poggo Stick In Front,bouncing Up An Down ...means U Turned Them Up To Far..


Huh? What? If you have your t-bars cranked and the truck is acting like a pogo stick you may have some other issues there....

B&B - My question to that guy would be what the h*** did he do with the truck to make the suspension drop like that in the first place? Because if he hit something hard enough for both mounts to tear there must have been one hell of a shock to that area . Like I said above I'm sure there are issues that can come from it, but I've never (with the exception of just now) heard of anything happening.


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## Yaz

I'm a believer that you can go a little but not all the way. It like everything, Only in moderation is OK but not to much, because your asking for issues like other have said. I did 4.5 on one side and 4 on the other the day I bought it. the still have half the threads showing. I have the 4800 lb front rated springs, but some I believe are less. 

30K no issues


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## JIM D

The solution to the T-bar problem should be:
GM should get their head out of their "arse", and put a solid fron axle on the 3500 series, and for those looking for a more comfortable ride, keep the T-bars on the 2500 series. Don't get me wrong, I love my Chevy truck, but with my purchase of my new one, I thought long and hard about going with a Ford, just to get a beefier front end. I decided that i would rather have a front end wear out in 4 years, rather than be blowing turbos through my hood, and having my truck in the shop every other week with tranny issues. (My brother has an F-350 PSD.....bad things man.....bad things!!!!):realmad: In order to "baby" the front end on the new truck i got a 7 1/2 foot plow instead of an 8 1/2 this time around, which did not thrill me too much.


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## B&B

Bad Luck said:


> Huh? What? If you have your t-bars cranked and the truck is acting like a pogo stick you may have some other issues there....
> 
> B&B - My question to that guy would be what the h*** did he do with the truck to make the suspension drop like that in the first place? Because if he hit something hard enough for both mounts to tear there must have been one hell of a shock to that area . Like I said above I'm sure there are issues that can come from it, but I've never (with the exception of just now) heard of anything happening.


Well,he didn't "hit" anything.It didn't happen all at one time.Judging by the rust on the cracks around the bracket I'd say it took a couple of month's to finally pull the brackets loose. After I got the truck apart I saw what had happened.The way the suspension is designed, there's a metal bracket that act's as a "stop" under the rear of the upper A arm to stop the suspension from dropping too far and pulling on the shock.What had happended is from running it with the bar's turned up all the time the upper A arm was bottoming out on the upper stop,and after a while the A arm bent the stop down thus allowing the suspension to drop further than the shock was designed for.So the next limiting stop was the shock! So when the suspension would drop it "jerked" on the shock until it pulled the shock mount off the frame. Most guy's that complain of a rough ride after turning up their bar's are actually feeling the suspension dropping and bottoming out on the stop, They think it's from stiffening up the bar. You can't make a torsion bar "stiffer" by changing it's adjustment,the spring rate is made in to the bar. When you turn up the bar's on a GM you do change the geometry of the suspension slighty that the bar "see's" though. Your just adding preload to the bar.


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## Antnee77

Soon enough, these will be released, and I'll be getting them, hopefully.


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## Jay brown

i leave my T bars where they are and keep the nice ride that chevys are known for. i have fords if i want to drive a truck that rides like a truck.


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## lawnmasters2006

Originally Posted by Bad Luck
Huh? What? If you have your t-bars cranked and the truck is acting like a pogo stick you may have some other issues there....

try it an u will find out..its cuz u have streched the front end to the max an it will jump...been ther done that..i had to lower mine after i fount this out.
on a chevy u can get 3 inch lift in the front ,but makes truck real unsteady in the front


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## hillndale

Ok You guys are gettin' me worried. I got a new '06 2500HD in Sept and researched the T bar adjust. Everyone says to crank them 4 turns for plowing. I just got my Boss 8' SD straight blade installed. The installer says they have to crank the T bars 4 turns to install the plow. So the plow is now installed. I went and got an alignment, as suggested, and they said the front end was raised 2". Does 4 turns result in 2" of lift?

I've also installed Timbrens on the front end. I definately noticed the height adjust and do feel the ride has been compromised a little. It is a little stiffer ride.

So is my truck gonna be OK or what? This topic yeilds a lot of different responses, from truck dealers, plow installers, as well as the "plowsite gang". Jeez it's wicked confusing  

Thanks for any feedback!

hillndale


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## kemmer

I think the rougher ride is from the timbrens, they are alot stiffer than the older ones you had in your truck


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## Bad Luck

lawnmasters2006 said:


> Originally Posted by Bad Luck
> Huh? What? If you have your t-bars cranked and the truck is acting like a pogo stick you may have some other issues there....
> 
> try it an u will find out..its cuz u have streched the front end to the max an it will jump...been ther done that..i had to lower mine after i fount this out.
> on a chevy u can get 3 inch lift in the front ,but makes truck real unsteady in the front


Pushing 56k on my truck with the T-bars cranked.

It made the front a little more responsive, less body roll. It does not bounce up and down like a pogo stick. When I originally did it, I had 6/5 turns on the passenger, and 7.25 turns on the driver to keep the truck level. I have since dropped back down 1.5 turns on both sides in order to keep the front end aligned. My front end is tight. No play from ball joints, torn or worn axles, or tie rod ends. BUT THIS IS MY TRUCK, not anyone elses. There are a lot of configurations so each one is different. I made sure when I cranked mine up that all the angles up front still "looked" like they were good and not to excessive. Also, I did NOT need an alignment after cranking mine. I drove it straight to the dealer after cranking, they checked and everything was in GM spec and the truck drove straight.

The bottom line is this: If you are going to do this, start out with two turns on each side. Take the truck for a ride. Come back and check your ride height, and your front suspension geometry to make sure none of the angles are too great. Crank one or two more. Drive, check etc. No one can tell you how many to crank. You have to try it on your truck and see what works best.

ALSO - If you are installing Timbrens they should be in contact with the lower a-arm at rest unloaded. If not, when your suspension compresses it's going to hit the spring and give the feel of a rougher ride. Do a search, I have pics somewhere on this site.


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## jvm81

I have a 2500HD GMC. First installing new fan clutch - always overheating. 2 I have a Hiniker V plow up front. Alot of weight. The plow guys turned up the torsion bars all the way last winter. Trucks rides good, little rought empty down the road but it is our work truck. Now I have timbrens - should I start al over with torsion bars. And if so, turn them all the way down after install of timbren and they turn as needed? New to this aspect but would rather play with it than bring it to the dealer 1/2 dozen times and pay them.


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## hillndale

kemmer said:


> I think the rougher ride is from the timbrens, they are alot stiffer than the older ones you had in your truck


Could be. Maybe I should not have installed Timbrens until I saw how the truck rode. I didn't think I'd notice the Timbrens themselves as I thought they kinda worked behind the scenes so-to-speak, under load when the plow is on. I will say with the plow on, the truck doesn't sag much and the front end holds the Boss really well. Feels at one with the truck.

Since my last post I drove my truck 120 miles on all kinds of different road surfaces, and it's definately not got the "Chevy" ride I'm used to. Felt every bump and road imperfection.

Now I'm kinda bummed havin' cranked the T-bars & adding the Timbrens. I already upgraded to a 3/4 ton for plowing. Probably shoulda gotten a 1 ton. I am starting to think Ford is the work truck. To have to frig around with the Chevy so I can plow is BS.

thanks kemmer

hillndale


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## dutchman

Antnee77 said:


> Soon enough, these will be released, and I'll be getting them, hopefully.


 can you let us know how they work and how much they cost


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## dmcenery

*Level Ride*

Antee,
Please let us know when and where the Level Ride product can be obtained. It might put a end to all of this t-bar cranking.

Thanks, Dan


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## Antnee77

dmcenery said:


> Antee,
> Please let us know when and where the Level Ride product can be obtained. It might put a end to all of this t-bar cranking.
> 
> Thanks, Dan


Firestone says they'll be out in less than a month, so we'll see. I'll post it up in this forum when I hear about it again.


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## Budsoda

*Just 2 sense*

I have a 98 Chevy 3500 crew cab dually 4x4 with a Blizzard 810 my first year out I had my torsion bars turned up to the max.. The next summer my CV axles needed to be replaced (keep in mine the truck has 81,000 mile on it) I do all of my own auto work and let me tell you to replaced the CV axles on a 1 ton Chevy is a big job. I had to borrow a Big slide hammer from a local auto shop. Just to get the hub off the axles.. and forget about buying one of slide hammer they run about $500.00 + from snap on.. Also the shop told me they would charge about $600.00 to do this job...So after all that I went out and bought Rancho coil over stocks that have a 1,000 rating and some Timbrens... and as far as Timbrens go I think anyone who has a plow need them it will stop your stocks from bottoming out if you were to hit a pot hole.. So then I turn my torsion bars back down to just 4 turn above stock. I've been running like this for 2 years now and the truck drive great. Now my 2 sense on the best truck for plowing snow is (and I hate to say it) but the Ford F550 with a cummins you just can't beat it. they have the best suspension and that cummins will last forever.. Don't get me wrong I love Chevy. always have always will...But GM just need to step it up on their suspension.... So if you plan on putting a heavy plow (like a Blizzard 810 ) on a GMC or Chevy you better buy you some heavy duty stocks and Timbrens or you will spending a lot more money 3 or 4 years down the road..........Just my 2 sense


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## Antnee77

When did they start offering a Cummins in an F-550? Let me know, because I'd love to pick one up!


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## Joe D

Budsoda said:


> I have a 98 Chevy 3500 crew cab dually 4x4 with a Blizzard 810 my first year out I had my torsion bars turned up to the max.. The next summer my CV axles needed to be replaced (keep in mine the truck has 81,000 mile on it) I do all of my own auto work and let me tell you to replaced the CV axles on a 1 ton Chevy is a big job. I had to borrow a Big slide hammer from a local auto shop. Just to get the hub off the axles.. and forget about buying one of slide hammer they run about $500.00 + from snap on.. Also the shop told me they would charge about $600.00 to do this job...So after all that I went out and bought Rancho coil over stocks that have a 1,000 rating and some Timbrens... and as far as Timbrens go I think anyone who has a plow need them it will stop your stocks from bottoming out if you were to hit a pot hole.. So then I turn my torsion bars back down to just 4 turn above stock. I've been running like this for 2 years now and the truck drive great. Now my 2 sense on the best truck for plowing snow is (and I hate to say it) but the Ford F550 with a cummins you just can't beat it. they have the best suspension and that cummins will last forever.. Don't get me wrong I love Chevy. always have always will...But GM just need to step it up on their suspension.... So if you plan on putting a heavy plow (like a Blizzard 810 ) on a GMC or Chevy you better buy you some heavy duty stocks and Timbrens or you will spending a lot more money 3 or 4 years down the road..........Just my 2 sense


Just for your own info, you do not even need to pull the tires off to change out the CV assembly on the 98. I did mine this past summer and just jack the truck up, remove the lower shock bolt, remove the large nut under the hub cap, the bolts on the inner flange of the CV and pop it out. I honestly had it done in under an hour in my driveway.
What Rancho shocks did you install?


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## Budsoda

Antnee77 said:


> When did they start offering a Cummins in an F-550? Let me know, because I'd love to pick one up!


in 8/06 ford offered the cummins in the 07 F550 and F650 but you had to order it... I'm not for sure but you maybe you can find one in the ford dealer lot now...


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## Budsoda

Joe D said:


> Just for your own info, you do not even need to pull the tires off to change out the CV assembly on the 98. I did mine this past summer and just jack the truck up, remove the lower shock bolt, remove the large nut under the hub cap, the bolts on the inner flange of the CV and pop it out. I honestly had it done in under an hour in my driveway.
> What Rancho shocks did you install?


Do you have a Dually..? I know my hub sit back to far to get the CV assembly out ...well i could not get my out :realmad: and was told to remove the hub... maybe you have better luck then me.... my life go like murphy's law (every is harder then normal) I will let you know the model number on the Rancho shocks just give a couple of days to find the reciept


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## Joe D

Budsoda said:


> Do you have a Dually..? I know my hub sit back to far to get the CV assembly out ...well i could not get my out :realmad: and was told to remove the hub... maybe you have better luck then me.... my life go like murphy's law (every is harder then normal) I will let you know the model number on the Rancho shocks just give a couple of days to find the reciept


Thanks. No dually and maybe thats the difference. I do have to pull the hubs off like you mention to do the brakes, and it sucked the 1st time and now never sieze is my friend. Not sure if you will need to do them again, hope not but try it if you have to.
I did mine at just over 100,000 miles and because of 2 torn boots. I figured they wouldn't last long after I changed the boots so I swapped the whole thing out.


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## snoking

i give props to all products mention to help out the chevy trucks.....they look awsome


my question is what would everyone have to talk about if chevy quit building truck beds with cars attached to them




mmm....oh ya everyone will ***** how they copied ford or dodge


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## Antnee77

Budsoda said:


> in 8/06 ford offered the cummins in the 07 F550 and F650 but you had to order it... I'm not for sure but you maybe you can find one in the ford dealer lot now...


Wow, that's awesome! Do you know what size Cummins it was? I am sure they are mighty rare trucks, though.


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## nevrnf

Ford has NEVER offered a Cummins in the F550. Last i saw you could get it in the F650 and F750.


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## No Moa

dang, i just put my 07 Duramax up 5.5, guess i'll wind them down to 3, sure was nice with the 8ft Xblade on it today, dropped about 1 inch with the Timbrens. 

I also would like to see this Firestone deal when it comes out.


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## maxkicker

hillndale said:


> Ok You guys are gettin' me worried. I got a new '06 2500HD in Sept and researched the T bar adjust. Everyone says to crank them 4 turns for plowing. I just got my Boss 8' SD straight blade installed. The installer says they have to crank the T bars 4 turns to install the plow. So the plow is now installed. I went and got an alignment, as suggested, and they said the front end was raised 2". Does 4 turns result in 2" of lift?
> 
> I've also installed Timbrens on the front end. I definately noticed the height adjust and do feel the ride has been compromised a little. It is a little stiffer ride.
> 
> So is my truck gonna be OK or what? This topic yeilds a lot of different responses, from truck dealers, plow installers, as well as the "plowsite gang". Jeez it's wicked confusing
> 
> Thanks for any feedback!
> 
> hillndale


your fine.
the thing with tbars is people that crank them trying to get the free 3 inch lift 
and what happens is the controls arms angle putting more stress on the balljoints idle arms and pretty much all of your steering components

when were talking about a truck that just got droped 1 or 2 inches because of a snowplow 
cranking up the tbars to get back those inches is perfectly fine just dont forget how many turns you cranked them up because your gonna want to turn them back down in the spring

just some advice for anyone turning there own t-bars up for the first time measure from the fender wells without the plow then put the plow on and give the t-bars about 3-4 full turns 
then either jack the truck up (both tires) and sit it back down or just move the truck about 5 feet and then measure to see how close to stock you are 
your measurement wont be accurate until youve moved the truck or jackit up 
because as the control arms go down the tires will have to move in and the t-bars will take alot of stress before those tires budge

sorry for the long post good luck everyone


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## dmcenery

Antee,
I spoke with customer service at Firestone anout the Level Rite air shocks. They said they should be out by the end of January. However, the suggested retail price per pair is going to be $697.00 per pair.  

Dan


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## Antnee77

dmcenery said:


> Antee,
> I spoke with customer service at Firestone anout the Level Rite air shocks. They said they should be out by the end of January. However, the suggested retail price per pair is going to be $697.00 per pair.
> 
> Dan


Are you kidding me? 700 bucks!?!? That's ridiculous. I'd rather put the money toward a SFA!


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## Mad Dog

*Confused as usual*



hillndale said:


> Ok You guys are gettin' me worried. I got a new '06 2500HD in Sept and researched the T bar adjust. Everyone says to crank them 4 turns for plowing. I just got my Boss 8' SD straight blade installed. The installer says they have to crank the T bars 4 turns to install the plow. So the plow is now installed. I went and got an alignment, as suggested, and they said the front end was raised 2". Does 4 turns result in 2" of lift?
> 
> I've also installed Timbrens on the front end. I definately noticed the height adjust and do feel the ride has been compromised a little. It is a little stiffer ride.
> 
> So is my truck gonna be OK or what? This topic yeilds a lot of different responses, from truck dealers, plow installers, as well as the "plowsite gang". Jeez it's wicked confusing
> 
> Thanks for any feedback!
> 
> hillndale


I just had a Boss 8" SD straight plow mounted on my 2005 HD. Installer said I'd be fine and didn't NEED to jack it up, because the truck would handle it. I weighed the truck with the plow on and have about 250 lbs left before I hit the front axle max weight, that was without the ballast behind the rear wheels and with me in it, so I figured I was good to go. Plow & mount weighed 700 lbs. I only plow my driveway (450' straight up the mountain...use 4WD in the summer sometimes... welcome to VT). I figured since it only takes about 30 seconds to drop it with the smarthitch, I wouldn't be doing any real driving around with it on. Do you HAVE to raise the bars??? What if I don't ??


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## kemmer

Nothing will happen, your front end will just be lower. I raised mine a little bit to try to hold the wieght of the plow better because when i go up or down steep entrances/driveways/exits, i sometimes bottom out the brackets and scrape a bit:crying:


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## Mad Dog

Thanks Kemmer. I'll leave it alone until something comes along that doesn't have consequences. Maybe just Timbrens after I see how it acts this winter. I'd like to level it out but it's not a functional need, just a want to.

I've gotten a lot of good advice from the folks on this site. You guys are a wealth of info and have prevented me from getting sucked into a couple gimmicks. Thanks to all.


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## hillndale

Mad Dog said:


> I just had a Boss 8" SD straight plow mounted on my 2005 HD. Installer said I'd be fine and didn't NEED to jack it up, because the truck would handle it. I weighed the truck with the plow on and have about 250 lbs left before I hit the front axle max weight, that was without the ballast behind the rear wheels and with me in it, so I figured I was good to go. Plow & mount weighed 700 lbs. I only plow my driveway (450' straight up the mountain...use 4WD in the summer sometimes... welcome to VT). I figured since it only takes about 30 seconds to drop it with the smarthitch, I wouldn't be doing any real driving around with it on. Do you HAVE to raise the bars??? What if I don't ??


Thanks for the feedback on your experience. Did you have to cut the air dam to mount the Boss under carriage?

h


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## mayhem

I need to go do some baseline measuments today but I wanted to check...about how much vertical lift is there in one full turn of the t-bar bolts? My driveway is dirt so the ground to fender measurements will be skewed slightly at home where I can jack up my truck...parking lot at work is level so i can get a good measurement here.

I planning on only giving about 2 full turns since I'm not doing other driveways with my plow, jut my own, but I want to put an extra inch of clearance in there since it scrapes at the very entrance even in full up position, regardless of angle and I just want to know if my baseline measurements show the driver's side is 1/2" lower than the passenger side (which I suspect from looking at it) do I turn that side an exta half turn or full turn?. Unloaded the truck has that lowered front end look anyway, so this will help make it look a touch more level when unloaded too.


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## TLS

Just remember guys....

You cant compare a '88-'00 GM IFS to a '01-'07.

Two different beasts.

The earlier ones were notorious for wearing and tearing when cranked. The NBS are much more forgiving.


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## mayhem

NBS started production in 99, ran side by side with "Classic" OBS through 00 or 01 IIRC.


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## beungood

*Cognito*

I installed a Cognito Leveling kit and the green keys and my truck seems to ride better than when I first had it. The kit came with a different lower control arm and repostioned shock mounts and greeseable ball joints. I left it at the lowest amount of turns and realize very little drop with my plow.


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## Antnee77

The question, though, is whether or not the new keys automatically starts by putting more tension on the t-bars.


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## beungood

*looks ok*

I think it re-indexes the whole torsion bar. When we installed it, there was enough to install it and turn the locking nut down. We did not have to take any cranks on it ,is still has room to adjust it. I don't know if they have to settle and we have to retighten or what. But so far it has not sagged, the ride has not changed and my front end parts look as you would expect.


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## Joe D

Antnee77;328190 said:


> The question, though, is whether or not the new keys automatically starts by putting more tension on the t-bars.


The socket is just in a different position to give you lift without adjusting, allowing you to adjust the bolt and get more lift. They do not add tension the the torsion bars as the vehicles needs X amount of preload to support the weight of the vehicle, this never changes only t bar position changes.


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## Mad Dog

hillndale;326486 said:


> Thanks for the feedback on your experience. Did you have to cut the air dam to mount the Boss under carriage?
> 
> h


No. The Boss dealer said the GMC you have to trim a small strip, but the chevy doesn't need to. It pushes up the air dam a little bit (1/8 -1/4") over where the mount is, but if I took the mount off it would come right back down and after it warms up would not even know there was a plow mount ever there. I told my wife I paid $3894 for a Boss tee shirt and a pair of Boss gloves and got a free plow installed. I made a new skid plate because the factory skid plate (plastic) doesn't fit with the plow mount. It really just keeps rocks and birds out of the fan belt because I can't believe plastic would really survive a hard hit on something.


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## scaper27

I got the front Timbrens and they have been great. I raised my t-bars almost to the max for the last 2 years and I think I finally took care of the ball joint. Because now I am getting the wheel shake without even touching the brake. Might be a steering stabilizer because that was really wet, but I think its the joints. It is a 99 OBS gmc 2500 HD. Just put new tires on all four today at a maller size too (265/75/16), because I thought maybe a tire wall let go. Thats not it either. Anyone else experince this. I put the t-bars back down, but i think its too late


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## Yaz

scaper27;332699 said:


> I got the front Timbrens and they have been great. I raised my t-bars almost to the max for the last 2 years and I think I finally took care of the ball joint. Because now I am getting the wheel shake without even touching the brake. Might be a steering stabilizer because that was really wet, but I think its the joints. It is a 99 OBS gmc 2500 HD. Just put new tires on all four today at a maller size too (265/75/16), because I thought maybe a tire wall let go. Thats not it either. Anyone else experince this. I put the t-bars back down, but i think its too late


If I were you, if its vibrating without touching the breaks first off I would crawl under there and have a look around and start shaking things. If you can't see anything wrong drive it slowly to a local garage and get up on a lift and have them check it out, what ever it is I wouldn't drive it around like that. 
After you fix it, then mess around with you torsion bars.


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## scaper27

I know. Its not that bad. Once and a while I hit a bump it shimmies and shakes. Not sure if it just the stablizer


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## diehrd

I browsed the thread and did not see any one who knows that the ford "Keys" are the answer to your front suspension in the 1500 series GM truck...

I will post the part number for ya..But basically the instlation of the ford key indexes the torson bars 1.5 to 2 inches higher then stock .

Here is a link to show part numbers and instlation procedure,no modifications are required to the truck,works on all 1500, the 2500,3500 Gm trucks with torson suspensions can use the 1/2 ton gm key or what is called the "green key"

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65871&highlight=ford+keys


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## PremierLand

Mad Dog;332496 said:


> No. The Boss dealer said the GMC you have to trim a small strip, but the chevy doesn't need to. It pushes up the air dam a little bit (1/8 -1/4") over where the mount is, but if I took the mount off it would come right back down and after it warms up would not even know there was a plow mount ever there. I told my wife I paid $3894 for a Boss tee shirt and a pair of Boss gloves and got a free plow installed. I made a new skid plate because the factory skid plate (plastic) doesn't fit with the plow mount. It really just keeps rocks and birds out of the fan belt because I can't believe plastic would really survive a hard hit on something.


wow thats an awesome deal on that plow!


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