# 04 1500 need info



## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

I have a 04 1500 quad cab that i put a 7.5 mm1 21" blade on it and am wondering what if any thing will be an issue for this truck mechanically if any thing.

Truck is stock 4.7magnum has the electric trans haul button on shifter slt 6' bed 115k mi. only owner 

would a k&n air filter or any other minor part swaps help out? 

also what is max tire size recommended needs some atm any recommendations would be great 

does it need to have weight in the rear as balast weight to push good

only thing that i noticed when plowing with it is it it sucks the amps dry on the voltage gauge in cab
and does not like to travel for any distance at higher speed with out high engine temp 

would larger alternator / coolers be needed or just drive it till it dies 


Thanks for any help


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

New fan clutch, second battery, yes add ballast, I plow with stock tires and it does ok but I'm sure smaller studded snows would be better. K & N filter, not sure it makes much of a difference to be honest. Be ready to change ball joints, upper control arms, tie rod ends, u joints, wheel bearings etc. Dodge front ends leave some to be desired in my opinion. Also keep it in tow/haul when plowing. That truck will treat you well as long as you take care of it and don't plow like a complete rock head. Oh and yes, I have that exact truck and like anything else as long as you do your preventative maintenance you'll be fine.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

peteo1;1524388 said:


> New fan clutch, second battery, yes add ballast, I plow with stock tires and it does ok but I'm sure smaller studded snows would be better. K & N filter, not sure it makes much of a difference to be honest. Be ready to change ball joints, upper control arms, tie rod ends, u joints, wheel bearings etc. Dodge front ends leave some to be desired in my opinion. Also keep it in tow/haul when plowing. That truck will treat you well as long as you take care of it and don't plow like a complete rock head. Oh and yes, I have that exact truck and like anything else as long as you do your preventative maintenance you'll be fine.


Great info thanks, already did the balls and tie rod ends. Defiantly gonna change out the u joints now that you mentioned them, i can hear slack in drive train as well as take your advice on the fan clutch and second battery thanks alot!

also posted in the fisher forum but this may be a general enough question that some one here may be able to answer if not you peteo1.

I have a 7.5' fisher mm1 21" blade with the 6" lift piston which is about to fail so can i swap the 6" out with a 10" so it can get up on the islands cause as it is now it hits the ground coming out of any kind of decline lot exit when fully lifted cause truck is so low, obviously a bigger set up is a no brainer but am stuck with this set up till i make some money so looking for ways to improve as i do maintenance

Also can i raise the front end from the factory setting on this truck by tightening the torsion bars? or would i need a kit


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Yes, crank the torsion bars and it will give you some lift. You may need an alignment after, but I never did one on my trucks. 

Peteo is right on with everything he posted.

As for the gauge, I had that issue with my 04 Ram 2500 HEMI which had the plow prep on it, I believe its more of a computer issue than an actual charging problem.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

plowguy43;1524479 said:


> Yes, crank the torsion bars and it will give you some lift. You may need an alignment after, but I never did one on my trucks.
> 
> Peteo is right on with everything he posted.
> 
> As for the gauge, I had that issue with my 04 Ram 2500 HEMI which had the plow prep on it, I believe its more of a computer issue than an actual charging problem.


Great thanks, ya the gauge worried me more the first few times then any thing seemed to operate fine and nothing in the electric system shows any loss of power other then the gauge, unfortunately i went thru a large puddle and now have a noise that sounds like a bearing and without taking the belt off to further test it pretty sure its the alternator so probably have to replace that sooner then later any recommended upgrade info on that?

and how much weight for ballast or is there a free chart somewhere for figuring that out


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

I went with an altenator from Advanced Auto Parts, If you google "advance auto parts discount code" you can find some nice coupons to save a ton of money if you buy it online. Mine worked fine and had a lifetime warranty (I replaced it in my HEMI thinking it was bad due to the gauge problem, only to find out it wasn't the altenator).

Fisher says 430lbs for Ballast (using their current MM2 7'6" SD plow)

http://ematch.fisherplows.com/bladeinfo.asp


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

plowguy43;1524524 said:


> I went with an altenator from Advanced Auto Parts, If you google "advance auto parts discount code" you can find some nice coupons to save a ton of money if you buy it online. Mine worked fine and had a lifetime warranty (I replaced it in my HEMI thinking it was bad due to the gauge problem, only to find out it wasn't the altenator).
> 
> Fisher says 430lbs for Ballast (using their current MM2 7'6" SD plow)
> 
> http://ematch.fisherplows.com/bladeinfo.asp


Ok glad to hear it would have gone to the dealer fml saved me money i'm sure, do u think if i end up changing it out i should maybe buy the alternator that comes int he hemi assuming its larger and same for fan clutch or just stick with all stock maintence Thanks for the fast responses here to guys


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Just checked and they don't share the same altenator. The output of the altenator is regulated by the computer which is why it drops so fast ( the spike from the load taken by the plow, the computer is slow to react and re-charge).

This is the altenator I found for your truck at Advance Auto Parts:
Worldwide Altenator 132AMP's Lifetime Warranty - $119.99 + $50.00 Core
Part#12562

Then I found this (its the best I could find) discount code - *A124* $40 off purchases of $100 or more

Total once core is returned should be about $80

You do need to buy it online (can be shipped to your house or picked up at the store) in order to get the discount.


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## mikeplowman (Jul 20, 2011)

i have a 2004 ram 1500 4x4 5.7 hemi.
ive put in new ball joints, wheel bearings, u-joints, timbren bump stomps($200)Thumbs Up, cranked t-bars a few turns, added new fan clutch for ($65) for my overheating problem, re-built my alterantor from stock 136A to 160A ($100)Thumbs UpThumbs Up, got all terrain tires, and put salt bags in the bag bed for my lots. the truck works great.
just make sure when you are shifting my forward to reverse / reverse to forward, that you make a complete stop. dodge transmissions are not the greatest.

"DODGE the father, RAM the daughter"


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

mikeplowman;1524652 said:


> *dodge transmissions are not the greatest.*


Actually, your truck has the 545RFE trans which has proven to be very reliable and take a lot of abuse. The main cause of failure is 2 Prime (your truck has 6 forward gears, second gear is seperated into 2 gears- one for normal driving, and one for tow/haul and passing called 2 prime). This gear is weaker and usually called upon for heavier loads (hauling or going Wide open throttle downshifts). Thankfully this doesn't usually fail unless you've modded the truck a bit or really beat the crap out of it.

On my 04 Ram 2500 HEMI the one thing I never worried about letting me down was the drivetrain, with my current V10 I treat the transmission with baby gloves even though it is also a reliable trans. The stigma goes to the 46RE which failed fairly often in the V8 gas trucks of 94-01 (02 2500)

sorry for the book, I just get annoyed with that


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

what size/series plow u using on the 04 hemi mike

and plow guy i'm a big fan of reading useful info especially when i applies to me! so while we are on the trany and drive train topic might as well ask what i can push as far as length of lot or driveway with what i think to be a early homesteader blade correct me if i am wrong it's 21" tall

trying to get an idea of what not to try and plow or at what point i need to make smaller passes

also any idea if i can switch out the 6" lift piston for a 10" with no issues or will the frame not allow that


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

mikeplowman;1524652 said:


> i have a 2004 ram 1500 4x4 5.7 hemi.
> ive put in new ball joints, wheel bearings, u-joints, timbren bump stomps($200)Thumbs Up, cranked t-bars a few turns, added new fan clutch for ($65) for my overheating problem, re-built my alterantor from stock 136A to 160A ($100)Thumbs UpThumbs Up, got all terrain tires, and put salt bags in the bag bed for my lots. the truck works great.
> just make sure when you are shifting my forward to reverse / reverse to forward, that you make a complete stop. dodge transmissions are not the greatest.
> 
> "DODGE the father, RAM the daughter"


I had thought about doing the same thing with ny alternator but I had heard you need to get the computer reprogrammed because it will still only let the alternator charge at 136A. I don't know how much truth there is to that though so I figured I'd ask.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

I forgot to mention, if there is a problem with the lift cylinder then replace it with the proper part. If you want your plow to lift higher then you have to adjust the chain on the a-frame.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

ya I already did the chain only issue with that is coming in and out of some spots there is not enough downward travel slack to keep contact so have to deal with bolting and unbolting it to adjust lift which i would like to eliminate

what is the biggest fisher blade my truck can handle any of the 7 6" series?


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

That's a LD series plow, your truck would handle a HD style Fisher 7'6" plow.

That said, your truck will plow without issue. I ran an HD plow on my 03 Dakota 4.7 V8 (same engine and tranny / transfer case and even axles as your Ram). And I plowed driveways and a large parking lot with it- each after the storm as they are all foreclosed properties.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

only thing that could of made my day better then hearing all that was if it started snowing  really appreciate all the info 

to get the most out of this for the season and recover my money by doing driveways would i be able to put a back drag edge kit to help with the fact the truck is a boat long 

or shoes or a foil if i get into any lots or is it best to just try to get HD?

and if i start looking for a HD can i just buy a mold board or do i need the whole plow side

what are the stacking ability of it combined with the trany ok to put it in 1st and make a mountain or just get it to the curb and call it a day assuming i will only be a back up for a company with 6 8'+ plows they can stack after the storm just want to know how long i could hang in there after a storm and it still be productive not at the cost of my truck


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

I'm reasonably sure you can just buy the plow side if you want the hd model. I think all the wiring is the same but I'm not 100% on that. You should check with the dealer. Ask them what they would give you on a trade.


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## mikeplowman (Jul 20, 2011)

@ BBC- I'm using a 8' hiniker straight steel blade. its a little heavier than what i wanted (7'6" i wanted) but i was in a jam and thats the only blade my dealer had on hand.

@ plowguy- well thats good to hear that my tranny is a pretty good one. i do have a issue when i shift from reverse to drive in a cold start. once i move it from R to D my rpm's drop, sometimes stalls out. if im fast enough to catch it, i can step on the gas and build up the rpms, then its fine. dont know if its a solenoid, sensor, fluid level.... it only happens once in a blue moon, so im not to worried.

@ peteo1- someone told me that when you upgrade your alt., you have to upgrade your wires(bigger). my guy that did it for me said since im not upgrading the AMPS dramatically, say to 200A, my stock wires are sufficient enough. he didnt mention anything about the computer. i will be making a phone call to him to double check. thanks


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

The plow will suck a single battery down very fast.A better upgrade is to install a second battery. As for the rest of the truck everything will be fine as long as you keep your head about the limitations of the truck. Had the same truck as yours about 5 years ago. Will move lots of snow and balast is key. Take smaller bites and more balast when it gets very deep.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

BBC co;1524978 said:


> only thing that could of made my day better then hearing all that was if it started snowing  really appreciate all the info
> 
> to get the most out of this for the season and recover my money by doing driveways would i be able to put a back drag edge kit to help with the fact the truck is a boat long
> 
> ...


It'll stack fine, leave it in Drive and raise the plow as your approaching the pile. Just remember, its not a tractor so there is limits LOL (see below)

Your truck side is compatible with any straight blade MM1 & MM2 (except for the 6'8" plow and 2013 fleet flex plows).

I'd run what you have for a bit and see how it is, personally I love the Xblades from Fisher. They shouldn't even offer any other straight blade because its so much better all around.



mikeplowman;1525072 said:


> @ plowguy- well thats good to hear that my tranny is a pretty good one. i do have a issue when i shift from reverse to drive in a cold start. once i move it from R to D my rpm's drop, sometimes stalls out. if im fast enough to catch it, i can step on the gas and build up the rpms, then its fine. dont know if its a solenoid, sensor, fluid level.... it only happens once in a blue moon, so im not to worried.


Sounds more like a sensor issue (not on your tranny) from you intake/throttle. I can't remember off the top of my head but I'll research and see what I can find.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Sorry for all the pictures, but this is the same parking lot I would plow with my Dakota - I plowed after the storm, some of which had nearly a foot of snow. The first pass was tough and the truck would struggle but after that it was smaller bites and it did well. The Ram did much better because of weight alone.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

You did that lot with a Dakota?? Wow


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

I know right. It took nearly an hour on the heavy storms


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## mark268 (Oct 10, 2007)

My back up is a 2005 Ram 1500 Hemi with a Meyer DP7.5. I used it during our Dec 26th Blizzard here in Indiana when my Chevy's Alt went out about 2 hours into the storm. I ran the Dodge for 20 hrs straight, then another 10 hrs the next day. Truck was flawless pushing 10+" of heavy snow. 18 Drives, 2 churches, and 2 mid sized factories.

Keep in mind, this was with aprx. 600 lbs of ballast and taking it slow. But, you treat her good and she'll keep pushing away.

I notice some voltage drop when operating the plow, but I also havent done anything to improve the charging system. Still run stock Alt, and one battery.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

what year is the dakota you have and what blade do you use on that, nice stacking pics


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

just swapped out the fan clutch, bought the alternator just to have for piece of mind had no time to swap it out snows already falling


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## mark268 (Oct 10, 2007)

Lucky you. Here in Indiana its just 10 degrees with no sign of the white gold


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

hopefully you get some toward end of the week, you plow with the same truck? wondering what gear people use for lots with the 545RFE transmission I have just been using drive with the tow/haul on but if we get a good dumping would like to know if I should use 2 or even 1 on the first push and back up to 2 after?? thanks for any info


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## mark268 (Oct 10, 2007)

I try not to use the dodge much. When I have I've used just about every combination of drive modes. Not sure which is best, and haven't got a definitive answer from posts. I will assume L1, and or 4L if its needed. Higher reving but easier on drivetrain. I take it very easy with the dodge though.

Remember, the Hemi/trans combo in our 1/2 tons is the same as the 3/4 but, front end, suspension, rear, and frame are significantly different.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Yeah the front ends are junk. I'm about ready to drive mine into Lake Erie. I'm tired of replacing front end parts on mine. I think I may go back to Chevy for the next truck.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

I did the ball joints, an axel and tierod ends this year and the steering rack a few years ago. Would go to another truck in a heart beat if it actually snowed but seeing we are limited on snow all of a sudden, gonna ride this one out till it atleast pays for the plow set up and be nice to come up with the down payment for the next one. Was tempted to just sell the whole plow setup and go buy a second truck at the beginning of this season glad I did not total waste of money that would have been. This summer is going to be a good year for buying plow trucks I assume.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

BBC co;1571598 said:


> what year is the dakota you have and what blade do you use on that, nice stacking pics


It was an 03 QuadCab with a fisher MM1HD.

The 02-05 Ram 1500s front ends are soft and do go through parts quick but no faster than a GM or Ford half ton in my experience. If you replace parts use quality aftermarket parts.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

yea i usually buy from the dealer for parts they give me them for wholesale so can't complain, they are out of their minds on labor tho the service manager told me 800$ to remove and replace the oil pan not including the pan or gasket - alldata says like 2 hours or 2.6 so that tells me dodge is trying to double charge for labor at 97$hr he literally told me 8 hours to swap it


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## Dubl0Vert (Sep 10, 2011)

I run an'04 1500 with an ST7.5 and like the smart people say, don'[t beat on it and it will work just fine...... i have had to be a little abusive when stuck in "snowmageddon" and he is still a trooper!


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

BBC co;1573693 said:


> yea i usually buy from the dealer for parts they give me them for wholesale so can't complain, they are out of their minds on labor tho the service manager told me 800$ to remove and replace the oil pan not including the pan or gasket - alldata says like 2 hours or 2.6 so that tells me dodge is trying to double charge for labor at 97$hr he literally told me 8 hours to swap it


Id go Moog, XRF, Dynatech, Carli instead. OEM parts are pretty weak. The aftermarket options are upgraded to fix the flaws - at least the quality versions are.


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## ggb6259 (Jan 14, 2010)

Moog have lifetime warranties.....


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

Great to know, i used to use moog on my old bronco always held up well now that you mentioned that. Will defiantly post before any future maintenance or replacement of parts, thanks again for the advice


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## V_Scapes (Jan 1, 2011)

If the plow isnt scraping on hill decents or going uphill onto a flat try using the float button if the plow has it (it should) or let a few links out of the chain.


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## BBC co (Nov 29, 2012)

V_Scapes;1574543 said:


> If the plow isnt scraping on hill decents or going uphill onto a flat try using the float button if the plow has it (it should) or let a few links out of the chain.


 thanks, i grabbed a bolt some washers,nut and adjusted the chain so I can adjust travel better, it does have float has been scraping good.

need to turn the torsion bars a bit is only thing really


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## mark268 (Oct 10, 2007)

Invest in some Timbrens. I notice only a half inch of drop, although it ride rough on the stops. Should fix that today with a level kit install.


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