# back drag edge



## NHDIESEL (Jan 13, 2011)

anybody know where i can get a back drag edge? the plow i want to put it on is an older fisher mm1 - 8ft. 

hit me up with a website and or place to pick one up in nh/ma area thanks


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

http://www.arcweldingco.com/snowplowframesparts/


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## NHDIESEL (Jan 13, 2011)

justme-;1195257 said:


> http://www.arcweldingco.com/snowplowframesparts/


thanks bud


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## RoCo (Jan 16, 2011)

Shipping may be expensive but these guys seem to have a pretty good product:

http://www.backdragblades.com/


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

RoCo;1207613 said:


> Shipping may be expensive but these guys seem to have a pretty good product:
> 
> http://www.backdragblades.com/


These don't work on Fisher (trip edge) design plows tho it looks like the best for full trip I have seen.


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## RoCo (Jan 16, 2011)

Perhaps, but according to the guys at backdrag.com all it needs is a little notching here and there. A difference of opinon, perhaps, but I am certainly not and expert.


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

I could be wrong, and it's happened more often than should be allowed, but it would appear if one were trying to install this kind of drag edge to a trip edge style plow not only would it be a custom process (drilling the underside of the trip edge to install) but notching would have to be so large it would remove sections of the drag edge completely. I find it hard to think no one has done it before and it's not common place if it were practical but then again it took 50 years to improve the wiper blade from exposed framework.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

If you bought a Hiniker C-plow you'd have exactly what you needed.


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## Magic Carpet (Jan 26, 2011)

justme-;1195257 said:


> http://www.arcweldingco.com/snowplowframesparts/


I just got a quote back from these guys for a 7'6" blade - $430 installed. A little pricey, but they were also offering 24hr turn-around on the install.

About 2 years ago, I thought I remember a fab shop in the Western part of MA that was building these for about $250-$300. Anyone else have any suggestions?


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

OK, here's another for you. I talked to a local welder/fab shop friend of mine. He does an 8 foot edge, installed at his shop for $325. The local Fisher dealer refers people to him when they need edges and plow repairs.
He's been around a long time and knows his stuff. I don't know turn around time or how busy he is at the moment.

Paglia Welding
58 Lacombe Street
Marlborough, MA 01752-2804
(508) 485-9353


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## Magic Carpet (Jan 26, 2011)

justme-;1217254 said:


> OK, here's another for you. I talked to a local welder/fab shop friend of mine. He does an 8 foot edge, installed at his shop for $325. The local Fisher dealer refers people to him when they need edges and plow repairs.
> He's been around a long time and knows his stuff. I don't know turn around time or how busy he is at the moment.
> 
> Paglia Welding
> ...


Thanks! I'll give them a call today. I've been emailing a shop in Chelmsford, he was offering 2 day turn-around and would build one for $300. Being near the RI boarder, I'd be willing spend the extra $25 to save that in gas!


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

One thing I think you guys may not realize is that with that amount of money, the most you're going to be able to clear in one drag is about 12".


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

Well, for one personally, it's not a common thing for me to let 12 inches fall without plowing. Second, the stock fisher without a drag does a mediocre job dragging anything over 4 inches without compressing it which is where the drag edge really helps and on top of that, I would think part dragging, or dragging the top 6 inches off with the blade partially up then going back for the remainder would cover it.

Chris Paglia is a good guy- known him a long time. I delivered newspapers to his family's house when I was a kid and he welded the frame on the bicycle I used to deliver those papers when I cracked it at one point. FWIW, directly across from him the that complex is a great motorcycle mechanic too, if you need that kind of thing come spring.


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## Magic Carpet (Jan 26, 2011)

Laszlo Almasi;1218163 said:


> One thing I think you guys may not realize is that with that amount of money, the most you're going to be able to clear in one drag is about 12".


I think he might have meant that you are only going to be able to drag back about 12 inches before what you're dragging goes back under the forward cutting edge. Or at least that's how I took his comment.



justme-;1219472 said:


> Well, for one personally, it's not a common thing for me to let 12 inches fall without plowing. Second, the stock fisher without a drag does a mediocre job dragging anything over 4 inches without compressing it which is where the drag edge really helps and on top of that, I would think part dragging, or dragging the top 6 inches off with the blade partially up then going back for the remainder would cover it.
> 
> Chris Paglia is a good guy- known him a long time. I delivered newspapers to his family's house when I was a kid and he welded the frame on the bicycle I used to deliver those papers when I cracked it at one point. FWIW, directly across from him the that complex is a great motorcycle mechanic too, if you need that kind of thing come spring.


I didn't get a change to call him today. My contractor called me in for snow removal! keep it coming is all I have to say! I did get to check out his website, I was hoping to see some pics of his back blade design. If you have any you could post, that would be great!


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

You are correct Magic Carpet. I meant 12" of clear horizontal before the plow floats up and doesn't clear down to the pavement etc.


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## Magic Carpet (Jan 26, 2011)

Laszlo - Does that have to do with the attack angle of the particular back drag edge? Or is it due to how high off the ground the forward cutting edge is?

From seeing back drag edges in action locally and looking at the pics posted to this site, anything does a better job than just using the front cutting edge to back drag a driveway away from a garage door.


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

Laszlo Almasi;1210783 said:


> If you bought a Hiniker C-plow you'd have exactly what you needed.


But then you'd be stuck with a Hiniker! :laughing:


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

YardMedic;1219965 said:


> But then you'd be stuck with a Hiniker! :laughing:


You wish. I've never been stuck with my Hiniker. It works as expected, and does a better job than most others I have seen. One of my guys just commented to me that his Western doesn't seem to clear as well as mine does...and his is relatively new.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

Magic Carpet;1219869 said:


> Laszlo - Does that have to do with the attack angle of the particular back drag edge? Or is it due to how high off the ground the forward cutting edge is?
> 
> From seeing back drag edges in action locally and looking at the pics posted to this site, anything does a better job than just using the front cutting edge to back drag a driveway away from a garage door.


Primarily due to the height of the plow lifting hardware. When the Hiniker flips overs, you get a much higher pull point and that allows you to get a longer cleared area before you have to drag again but it all depends on how far you are trying to clear and how far down. If you, or your customer, is content with only a small spot, the the Hiniker will most likely not benefit you. But for me and my customers, having a cleared area throughout the entire walking area is the biggest concern.


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## padec21 (Nov 7, 2008)

justme-;1208531 said:


> These don't work on Fisher (trip edge) design plows tho it looks like the best for full trip I have seen.


You sure. I just put one on my Fisher MM1 and it still trips fine. And it works great.


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## padec21 (Nov 7, 2008)

Magic Carpet;1214016 said:


> I just got a quote back from these guys for a 7'6" blade - $430 installed. A little pricey, but they were also offering 24hr turn-around on the install.
> 
> About 2 years ago, I thought I remember a fab shop in the Western part of MA that was building these for about $250-$300. Anyone else have any suggestions?


bought my backdragblade for $200 shipped to my door. took about 1 hour to install. that included going to store to get another cut off wheel for the notching.


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## WOODY367 (Dec 19, 2002)

padec21;1224731 said:


> bought my backdragblade for $200 shipped to my door. took about 1 hour to install. that included going to store to get another cut off wheel for the notching.


Where did you get it from for that priced shipped? Have any photos of it?


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

Sorry Magic, no pics. I have not seen one of his edges- I was actually trying to catch up to him about another project and happened to ask him about drag edges because of your thread here. After the way this winter is going I'm tempted to have him put one on mine pretty quick too.

Padec- I'd love to see pics of that edge on your Fisher... any more options for those plows are welcome.


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## padec21 (Nov 7, 2008)

backdragblades.com is exactly where I got it from. I will try to take pics later today for you


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## Pushinsnow (Dec 18, 2007)

There was a previous thread on this. Check out my HPT setup. http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=111099


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## Magic Carpet (Jan 26, 2011)

justme-;1226195 said:


> Sorry Magic, no pics. I have not seen one of his edges- I was actually trying to catch up to him about another project and happened to ask him about drag edges because of your thread here. After the way this winter is going I'm tempted to have him put one on mine pretty quick too.


Justme - I called Chris last Sunday the 30th. He had the blades in stock. I could have come up that afternoon, but he had family obligations. I went up Monday morning. Was at his shop around 10:30 - It was installed, paid for, and out the door by 10:55. I didn't have your real name, but he knew who I was talking about when I told him you referred me.

Got to use it Tuesday & Wednesday - DADDY LIKE!!!! Worth every dime! My only suggestion to him would be to drill a hole or pre-mount a chain to it for lifting it out of the way when doing commercial lots.


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

Glad to hear you like it, and that he had them ready to go- any chance of a pic or two just to see his design? 

I agree with the lift chain idea- I have a short roll of SS aircraft cable for when I reset my MM1 to spring drop the lift frame like the MM2 and bought enough to hold up a drag edge too-
According to him (welder) drilling the steel is easy with good sharp bits...all it would take is 1 hole to bolt a chain on.


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## yancylandscape (Nov 5, 2007)

I'm looking for some testimonials on the yellow back-drag edge I've seen. I have a Western 7'6" Pro Plow with Pro Wings.
It seems like a good idea, and back dragging doesn't usually work great anyway, so like someone up there said, "anything's better than back dragging with the front edge". I wonder though, does the weight of the plow now pushing down on twice the cutting edge surface (front and rear scrapers) allow the original front edge to scrape as well while plowing forward as it did before installing the back drag edge? If this is the case, I would also think the front edge would last a little longer. 
OR... Possibly... does the plow lean forward while plowing forward so that the back drag edge isn't touching the pavement? If so, I have nothing to worry about and I should get one. Any feedback is appreciated.

Tom Yancy
Yancy Landscape, LLC
http://www.yancylandscape.com/

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## mpgall26 (Aug 19, 2011)

RoCo;1209550 said:


> Perhaps, but according to the guys at backdrag.com all it needs is a little notching here and there. A difference of opinon, perhaps, but I am certainly not and expert.


I called them and they say no to fisher plows


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Laszlo Almasi;1219974 said:


> You wish. I've never been stuck with my Hiniker. It works as expected, and does a better job than most others I have seen. One of my guys just commented to me that his Western doesn't seem to clear as well as mine does...and his is relatively new.


That is because of the angle. when plowing forward you have a 70 degree angle which cuts into the snow. but going backward you have what? a 130 angle. shrugs. think of it like draging a knife blade backward against your skin.

with the c plow, or a back drag edge, it faces backward, you get that 70 degree angle back. so you are cutting into the snow, not draging the blad backward over it.

the c plow does this by fliping the blade over, but dang that thign just looks weird. almost as weird as me pulling my lawn equipment with my chrotch rocket.Thumbs Up boy did i get looks that 2 weeks.

as far as a trip edge goes, could you not use westerns style where the backdrag edge fits inbetween the forward edge and the blade itself, but angles back? it might not trip as much, but could still trip.


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## chevyzrule810 (Oct 5, 2010)

see about this guy

http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/pts/2800156087.html


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