# Flink SS V-Box Salter Electric Conversion Pix



## derekbroerse

For Cretebaby.... and anyone else who's curious.

Please forgive my messy wiring, the salter was put into service a day earlier than expected and I had to rush. And the salt residue... after all, it was just working 

LED Brake and marker lights, regular reverse lights. Amber oval LED blinks when the motor is running.


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## derekbroerse

A look inside... wish the engine tray and hood were stainless too! Stupid Flink! I painted the hood with some 12 year old leftover 1969 Camaro Cortez Silver...


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## derekbroerse

Another look, other side...


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## derekbroerse

A look at the tag if you guys wanna get the same motor.... 1800RPM as I stated in the other thread.


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## derekbroerse

Not just another pretty face, yes, it really does work! A photo out on one job site...


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## derekbroerse

Lets try that again... Damn, that reflective strap really works doesn't it? lol


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## derekbroerse

other end.....


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## derekbroerse

Yes the plow needs paint. Hasn't even been used this year yet, nothing but light salt events.

Yes I still need to post pics of the truck in daylight and clean, the whole fleet... 

One little trick I made was to install a weatherproof toggle switch (behind the battery) that activates the solenoid from the rear. This allows me to jog it if necessary, or if the truck should break down I can use the loader to swap it to any other truck in the fleet and run the salter until the on-board battery dies.

Oh ****, that reminds me, I didn't take a picture of the controller box I made... oops.


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## DeVries

That salter, is that a Parkview special. If not does the auger/chain get controled seperatly from the spinner?


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## cretebaby

Thanks.


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## 2COR517

Looks good. I really like that truck.


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## derekbroerse

DeVries;912627 said:


> That salter, is that a Parkview special. If not does the auger/chain get controled seperatly from the spinner?


No its not, I bought this one thru ebay needing repair last spring... picked it up in northern PA. Was told it was a 2005 and the drag chain was busted in 2007. Turned out to be the same drag chain I had already bought and not installed in my other Flink. I stripped out the old one (in pieces, obviously hadn't been washed ever, holy rotten steel!) and changed a few bushings etc. Repainted the steel, replaced all the fasteners with stainless (why do they use regular steel for this?) and did the electric conversion while I had it apart. I basically eliminated the gas engine (tho it ran fine and supposedly had low hours) and electric clutch assembly, otherwise it runs thru the stock gearbox with a larger sprocket to slow it down--was running a million miles per hour at first with the original stuff.

I also added all the lighting, it was bare except for the oval hole.. oh and a muffler hole we filled in. My intent is to run a large rubber flap across the rear of the truck to cut down on the salt sprayback.

I do pretty much everything at home, plow parts come from Parkview, the chain stuff came from a local industrial supplier on Nielson (Canadian Bearing).


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## 04chevy2500

looks great! approx. how many hours did it take to do the electric conversion?


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## Grassman09

04chevy2500;913022 said:


> looks great! approx. how many hours did it take to do the electric conversion?


And how much $$$ did it take.


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## T-MAN

Hi Derek, good see you made out well with that conversion. Any pics of the conroller yet ?


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## derekbroerse

I think the motor was around $400, I bought it online from an electric motor supplier, they were cheaper than anywhere else so shop around. The actual conversion wasn't hard, took a little math and drilling some holes in the old motor plate. The actual conversion can easily be done in a day with decent mechanical skills and tools, and depending how hard it is to get things apart. Not including drag chain replacement, bushings etc.... I figure I have under $500 in the conversion itself because I reused so much. That big sprocket I had too, that would probably be a $50 piece by itself.

Here is the handheld controller I made up with a Radio Shack hobby box, some 30A light up rocker switches from the tractor trailer supplier, the round button is a BLAST button... oh and of course my Brothers labelmaker. Sharp eyes will spot the wiring--four wire trailer wire and plug for easy install and removal.


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## blowerman

I love electric salters, in fact they are all I will use after years of hassles with gas motors. Looks like a nice conversion. How does the blast work?


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## derekbroerse

Thanks... Blast is just a momentary push button rather than snapping in the rocker switch. Since there is no variable speed control everything just runs at full speed.

Hey, are all the pics coming up for you guys? I've got at least two here that don't show when I go to the thread.... :realmad:


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## cretebaby

derekbroerse;916029 said:


> Thanks... Blast is just a momentary push button rather than snapping in the rocker switch. Since there is no variable speed control everything just runs at full speed.
> 
> Hey, are all the pics coming up for you guys? I've got at least two here that don't show when I go to the thread.... :realmad:


I think all the pix are up.


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## blowerman

I see... As all my electric v-box salters are a constant speed, was trying to figure out how you managed to increase the speed temporarily. Is it possible to get a faster burst out of electric motor v-box spreaders? I know they make some with variable speed, but to have a burst would amount to reducing the speed to a slower setting and having a instant increase in voltage to speed up the spinner. Does that make sense? If someone has the answer, I'm currious to know how it's done.


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## xtreem3d

i'd like to know your reduction ratio..motor teeth to gearbox teeth ?
thanks
steve


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## derekbroerse

blowerman;916391 said:


> I see... As all my electric v-box salters are a constant speed, was trying to figure out how you managed to increase the speed temporarily. Is it possible to get a faster burst out of electric motor v-box spreaders? I know they make some with variable speed, but to have a burst would amount to reducing the speed to a slower setting and having a instant increase in voltage to speed up the spinner. Does that make sense? If someone has the answer, I'm currious to know how it's done.


Hmmmm... I suppose it could be done with one of those high-crank power dual voltage battery and a solenoid... I'm talking the ones with two positive lugs on them, one for 12V and the other for 18V. I dunno how long the motor would like that for, but as long as its only for a few seconds at a time it would probably be ok.


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## derekbroerse

xtreem3d;916560 said:


> i'd like to know your reduction ratio..motor teeth to gearbox teeth ?
> thanks
> steve


I'd have to go count again, I did it in the spring and don't know what I did with my notes... keep in mind the gearboxes may not all be the same, either, so what I do may not work on another brand of machine quite the same way.


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## xtreem3d

that was gonna be my next question, what's your gb ratio?


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## derekbroerse

Just an update... more of an FYI...

DONT use the trailer wiring without a relay for the lights, the 55w halogen lights melted down the harness....


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## plowking35

I just did this conversion on an ice o way. 20 to 1 gear box ratio 12 tooth on motor shaft and 60 tooth on input to gear box.
Dino


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## Fiske Plowing

I was wondering if anyone new were you can purchase the gears to do the conversion to electric?


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## derekbroerse

Fiske Plowing;1345792 said:


> I was wondering if anyone new were you can purchase the gears to do the conversion to electric?


Any industrial supplier can get sprockets and chains in pretty much any pitch. Mine came from Canadian Bearing. I'm certain there are places online too.


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## stewartsrepair

looks good but don't forget if you add varitable speed a dc motar must go full speed befor it goes to low speed you could find the parts at grangers supply i am sure. probley could do it for around 200-300


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## derekbroerse

stewartsrepair;1346836 said:


> looks good but don't forget if you add varitable speed a dc motar must go full speed befor it goes to low speed you could find the parts at grangers supply i am sure. probley could do it for around 200-300


I never bothered with variable. Pretty rare I'd use it it seems. Toggle switch and constant duty relay for me!


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## Moonlighter

For the guys who have been running the electric motors for a while - Has there been any base cracking issues, or twisting of the plate due to the torque? A buddy of mine is convinced that the motor needs much more support than the four bolts in to the base, like a rear mount bracket as well to solidify the motor. I was just wondering if anyone had any issues because I am going to be putting mine together over the next week and if I need to reinforce it I would rather know now. Thanks Brian.


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## derekbroerse

Moonlighter;1347421 said:


> For the guys who have been running the electric motors for a while - Has there been any base cracking issues, or twisting of the plate due to the torque? A buddy of mine is convinced that the motor needs much more support than the four bolts in to the base, like a rear mount bracket as well to solidify the motor. I was just wondering if anyone had any issues because I am going to be putting mine together over the next week and if I need to reinforce it I would rather know now. Thanks Brian.


These motors are designed to be flange mounted like that. No problems with cracking so far, two seasons on my conversion. Extra bracing sure couldn't hurt but really isn't necessary... but the extra peace of mind may be worth it to your buddy.Thumbs Up


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## Moonlighter

derekbroerse;1347462 said:


> These motors are designed to be flange mounted like that. No problems with cracking so far, two seasons on my conversion. Extra bracing sure couldn't hurt but really isn't necessary... but the extra peace of mind may be worth it to your buddy.Thumbs Up


Thank you very much, thats exactly what I wanted to hear.Thumbs Up:salute:


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## xtreem3d

So after about 2 years how's it working? anything you would change now? gearing ect?


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## CGM Inc.

Nice work there! Pretty sure when the next gas motor goes it will get an electric one too!


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## Moonlighter

I got my new motor in and will be installing it tomorrow, Derek I had a question about how you wired your switch in, it looks like you went one to positive batt. and one to negative on the motor to your switch is that correct or am I looking at the wrong wires? I thought I would need to switch through the relay, or is that acting like a large fuse-able link that blows before the motor does? Sorry about all the questions, I really appreciate all the help. Brian


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## forestfireguy

We did one opf these conversions last season , it ran 100% perfect all season, except one instance where we had chunky salt, we wired ours with an under the hood resetable breaker. This popped, we removed the chunks stuck at the gate and problem solved. My only change(maybe) would be to change sproket size to increase spinner rpm's and increase the distance of throw.

We get about 20' of spread as it is, and in lots with vehicles thats OK, but in an empty, middle of the night lot we could move through quite a bit faster.

We have had NO trouble with the drag chain speed, or draw. We have another 1 of these set to go this season, we finally made the change to all electric salters, we are buying stainless electric units only moving forward.


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## deicepro

I just bought a variable speed wireless controller the other day for a tailgate spreader project, If you guys are still interested I can get some pics and more specs?


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## got-h2o

Subscribing.........


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## got-h2o

Maybe I missed it since I'm reading this on my phone, but why a battery out back? I assume you ran a charge wire to that bat and obviously a starter relay back there to that bat to control on/off. A good idea, but I'm just curious why you didn't just run a power cable out back and tie the starter relay to one of the truck batts. Also, did you isolate the spreader battery?


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## Moonlighter

For me it was a decision between draining the main truck batteries or giving it it's own, with a charge wire run off the wire to charge it like a normal battery, plus I was worried about the amp draw while running and loosing some power in long runs to the engine compartment. I am also planning on adding a prewet system to the rig when I can, so wiring the pumps will take no time, with a battery so close. I went a bit over and put a direct ground from my frame to the new battery. This is how she looks now. Thanks Guys For All The Help!Thumbs Up


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## got-h2o

I like it. My trucks all have a +12v charge wire for the trailer anyway. Theres a perfect place to tie in at.


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## s&mll

Having trouble finding a 60 tooth sprocket..... They all seem to be hub and sprocket and come from go kart websites.... Things look a little flimsy to be moving 2 tons of salt with breaking sprocket.


Do they not make 1" 60 tooth sprockets that are heavy duty. Like the 12tooth factory sprocket on spinner.


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## Mike Nelson

I remember a company making us a sprocket to our specs. The company is PJ Ortiz Welding & Towing Equipment in Hopewell Junction NY. 845-226-7030. Ask for either Barry or Phillip. 
Tell them Mike Nelson told you to call. 
Good luck


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## fireside

s&mll;1516163 said:


> Having trouble finding a 60 tooth sprocket..... They all seem to be hub and sprocket and come from go kart websites.... Things look a little flimsy to be moving 2 tons of salt with breaking sprocket.
> 
> Do they not make 1" 60 tooth sprockets that are heavy duty. Like the 12tooth factory sprocket on spinner.


tractor supply sells them around $35.00. ray bearing also sells everything you will need. If you don't have any of them inm your area. Look up mill right shops they will also sell the parts you need


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## s&mll

fireside;1517516 said:


> tractor supply sells them around $35.00. ray bearing also sells everything you will need. If you don't have any of them inm your area. Look up mill right shops they will also sell the parts you need


No ray bearing around here.... tractor supply biggest is a 48tooth for nimber 40 chain


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## fireside

My tractor supply has a 60 tooth in stock. As for ray bearing they are local to me but it was cheaper on there web site. I will look for the site io don't remember it.


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## Oxmow

Did you say that your burst button just momentarily turns the spinner on at the same rate as normal running with the switch, or does it actually increase the speed over normal?


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## s&mll

I finished mine the other day. Stuck with the belt and kept the clutch because I was unable to locate a 60tooth sprocket. Only time will tell if the belt system holds up. Will post pics and video tomorrow most likely


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## 518Landscapes

Curious what gauge wire you guys are running from the truck battery to motor solenoid?


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## s&mll

My truck was prewired to the 12volt pin with 10gauge. So I just spliced in and ran mini gray andersons from the 7way hitch socket to my salter battery


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## 518Landscapes

s&mll;1540948 said:


> My truck was prewired to the 12volt pin with 10gauge. So I just spliced in and ran mini gray andersons from the 7way hitch socket to my salter battery


OK correct me if I'm wrong, so your charging your salter battery from your 7-way then correct? (eliminating the need to run wire from the truck battery back)

And your drawing your main power supplied to your motor/solenoid from your salter battery?

The wire used to power the motor would be around 4 AWG or close to whats used on the salter for battery cables originally?

I'm leaning towards running wire from my truck battery rather then the 7-way. how dose the 7-way work no issues?

Thanks to all for your help 

edit..............rollerchain4less.com has all the sprockets needed to do the conversion.


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## s&mll

I stuck with the belt system and kept that clutch because i was in a rush and had a potential storm coming.unlike the pictures posted my swenson is setup different. Clutch comes off gearbox to big pulley to small pulley on motor.

I also had a height issue. The 12v motor shaft is only 2 inches long. My briggs was about 4 inches. I rewired my controller so the on button feeds 12volt+. It use to just ground out motor for kill switch. And kept my clutch button. One day i will convert to chain. But i figure if the salt ever gets hard atleast i can burst the clutch. Without having to build of tq. It will be on command with motor already spinning. 

Yes i have a normal car battery 800cca on the salter. 4gauge from battery to solenoid. 4gauge from solenoid to motor. I have a extended shoot that blocks my 7way port. So i tapped into the wiring behind 7way and used 8gauge anderson connectors. Stock wiring from battery to 7way way is 10gauge which is plenty to keep a charge on the battery. 

So i ran 10from anderson to battery. Im told saltdoggs only use 10gauge in the factory harness so since your using 10 to only maintain a charge not actually power motor you should be fine.


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## 518Landscapes

Thanks for the help.


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## Brad3403

Has anyone done this conversion on a 4 yard spreader????


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## derekbroerse

I haven't. However, not from experience, but i suspect if your spreader has an inverted V inside it, it probably wouldn't matter what size it is. There are bigger electric motors available, if necessary, but they would draw alot more amps. It is all about matching the components from your truck and spreader correctly!


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## Sawboy

So after doing a search, this seems to be the most detailed of the gas to electric conversion threads. So rather than start another thread......

Anyhow, I'm getting ready to do this wth a stainless Vee box I have. Model unknown as everything is worn off. Just tired of dealing with the noise, fumes, carrying gas, unreliability etc. 

While this looks pretty straight forward, the thing I haven't seen explained in any great detail (I may have missed it) is the changing of the sprockets. Can someone explain the "how's and why's". I understand that a bigger sprocket means slower speed and vice versa etc. I'm just not sure, what we are speeding up, what we are slowing down, and why?

Help a guy out ��


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## 1olddogtwo

Bob, post some pics. I'm sure someone can ID it.


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## Mark Oomkes

Hmmm, wonder how Derek is doing. Haven't seen him around in a while.


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## leigh

Sawboy;2137022 said:


> So after doing a search, this seems to be the most detailed of the gas to electric conversion threads. So rather than start another thread......
> 
> Anyhow, I'm getting ready to do this wth a stainless Vee box I have. Model unknown as everything is worn off. Just tired of dealing with the noise, fumes, carrying gas, unreliability etc.
> 
> While this looks pretty straight forward, the thing I haven't seen explained in any great detail (I may have missed it) is the changing of the sprockets. Can someone explain the "how's and why's". I understand that a bigger sprocket means slower speed and vice versa etc. I'm just not sure, what we are speeding up, what we are slowing down, and why?
> 
> Help a guy out ��


The why? is because of a less powerfull,different rpm electric motor.You're taking a 10.5 hp gas engine that runs at a certain rpm? and replacing with 1.5 hp electric motor.Has to be geared down to turn the gearbox.You're going to lose some spread volume switching to electric,but unless you're salting at 30 mph with the door open all the way and throttle at high it will be ok.


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## Sawboy

1olddogtwo;2137060 said:


> Bob, post some pics. I'm sure someone can ID it.


After having it looked at by a place that does the conversion, it's a Buyers.


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