# 02 Duramax hard start ?



## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Hey guys i just bought a 02 duramax, was an amazing deal but the problem is the truck has a hard time starting.... ive been told injectors or a weak cp3 but the thing is the truck runs like it should after it is started, has lots of power etc. Im thinking maybe the glow plugs are shot ? Any input would be apprecated.


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## carkey351 (Oct 18, 2010)

duramax-king;1280673 said:


> Hey guys i just bought a 02 duramax, was an amazing deal but the problem is the truck has a hard time starting.... ive been told injectors or a weak cp3 but the thing is the truck runs like it should after it is started, has lots of power etc. Im thinking maybe the glow plugs are shot ? Any input would be apprecated.


most likely glow plugs. If its not warmed it will have a hard time starting. Could be other things but glow plugs are a wear item


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Bad glow plugs cause an engine light. I bet your getting air in the system somewhere. Before you start it one morning try priming the pump in the filter head and see of it starts good. It could even be a bad bleeder screw as a lot of people over tighten them. My 07 doesn't even have glow plugs and it starts right up and generally injectors and CP3 problems don't effect startup. I'm no expert but giving you the cheap things to try first. Chech to make sure you wif sensor insnt leaking also and your filter has a good seal. Filter heads have also been known to leak.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

duramax-king;1280673 said:


> Hey guys i just bought a 02 duramax, was an amazing deal but the problem is the truck has a hard time starting.... ive been told injectors or a weak cp3 but the thing is the truck runs like it should after it is started, has lots of power etc. Im thinking maybe the glow plugs are shot ? Any input would be apprecated.


Most likely it's your glow plugs and/or your glow plug relay.Simply put it on a code reader and stop guessing.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

JD Dave;1280710 said:


> Bad glow plugs cause an engine light. I bet your getting air in the system somewhere. Before you start it one morning try priming the pump in the filter head and see of it starts good. It could even be a bad bleeder screw as a lot of people over tighten them. My 07 doesn't even have glow plugs and it starts right up and generally injectors and CP3 problems don't effect startup. I'm no expert but giving you the cheap things to try first. Chech to make sure you wif sensor insnt leaking also and your filter has a good seal. Filter heads have also been known to leak.


Whether you have a LBZ or the LMM,you most definitely have glow plugs AND a grid heater.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

tuney443;1280745 said:


> Whether you have a LBZ or the LMM,you most definitely have glow plugs AND a grid heater.


HAHA you have no idea...

Dave most definitely does not have glow plugs on his LMM...

I agree I dont think its a glow plug issue myself... The glow plugs practically dont even turn on in the warmer weather... Sounds like an issue JD Dave described... Thats where I'd be focusing anyways...


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Triple L;1280768 said:


> HAHA you have no idea...
> 
> Dave most definitely does not have glow plugs on his LMM...
> 
> I agree I dont think its a glow plug issue myself... The glow plugs practically dont even turn on in the warmer weather... Sounds like an issue JD Dave described... Thats where I'd be focusing anyways...


''HaHA'' you have no idea''?
How old are you? Never mind,it's irrelevant.

Unless ''Dave'' took his GP's out,he most certainly does have them.

Tho OP is in Canada and um,well it's most likely still pretty cold there,here in NY it went to 30* this past week at night so whether the GP's are manually activated or not,they will energize to aid in starting along with the intake grid heater in that temp. range and colder. That is fact.I don't know what your running,but you obviously have a lot to learn about a Dmax.

Getting back to the OP's problem,until he runs a code reader/scanner on his ride,it's only educated conjecture--my first thought is still the GP's--possibly a WIF housing crack and/or leaky gasket.

Lastly,I think Dave can and will respond on his own---I didn't know there was a brown noser's club here on PS.

For your edification,here is some proof that GP's are in the LMM:

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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

Wow you really think your king $h^t eh...

Im pretty sure I know how the duramax's work as I own both an LLY and a LMM...

Dave can speak for himself but I knew he was out for a while and most likely wouldnt respond so I figured I'd awnser your question for him.... WTF are you talking about brown nosing!

Dave's truck also dosent have A/C or a cab heater... O ya, but we're from Canada... Maby I should look up the specs for you to prove that all trucks come with cab heaters LOL

Either way this stupid agrument is not helping solve buddys problem... Allz I know is on warmish days, +10degree's or so, my glowplugs may run for 1/2 a second at best! I sure dont think they make much heat in that time.... All my other diesels start with out using the glow plugs so thats why I also dont think its is a glow plug issue myself...

But since your the duramax god, wanna tell me what type of converter this is... You should know right away just by looking at the colour of it since you know soo much...


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

tuney443;1280745 said:


> Whether you have a LBZ or the LMM,you most definitely have glow plugs AND a grid heater.


I don't have any of that stuff on my pull truck and I was amazed at how well it started in the winter when I had to move it. I don't drive it in the winter but move it around to work on it. Triple L does know a lot about it as we are friends. Your right about reading the codes though but from what the OP said I assumed he wasn't getting any codes which leads me to what I said but to be honest I'm just guessing. I will say my 02 started just fine with out all the glow plugs working also. I have a tractor right now with the same problem as the OP and I just changed all the fuel lines and I'm letting it sit until Mon to see if the problem is solved.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Triple L;1280823 said:


> Wow you really think your king $h^t eh...
> 
> Im pretty sure I know how the duramax's work as I own both an LLY and a LMM...
> 
> ...


No,I really don't think I'm King $h^t--never implied or even came close to that.I do however know that you're quite mistaken about a few things on the Dmax,the first of which you conveniently didn't mention here is that all Dmax's have GP's.YOU said Dave's does not and ''Haha you have no idea'',just to remind you who started this confrontation.I showed you proof and can show you more if you'd like ,but where is your argument that the LMM has no GP's????

As for running 1/2 a second,wrong again.What you are referring to is only the visual GP icon lit up on your dash--your GP's are actually still energized usually for app. 2 minutes depending on air temperature.Check your voltmeter sometime during a cold start-up and you'll see what I'm talking about.The GP's and the grid heater use a lot of juice,when both turn off,watch your needle jump to the right.As for not making much heat in a short time span?Completely wrong.They generate lots of quick heat--how do you think your cold engine starts and runs so well?Try touching one sometime when energized--just send me a signed disclaimer clause first.

As for your purple torque converter quiz,I have no idea what it's for,probably some high performance application which I'll never use so it really means nothing to me.Having 3 Dmax's,a LB7,LLY, and my present LBZ logging hundreds of thousands of milesI've never seen my TC and hopefully never will.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Ended up pulling my glow plugs today and it turns out 3 of the 4 on the pass side are bad, so im going to go ahead and replace all of them, hopefully that will fix the problem.

Thanks for trying to help Dave, Triple L, And Tuney


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

I didn't thoroughly read all of the above posts, but a lot of hard starts are caused by weak batts or one bad and not the other. One bad cell in one batt when the rest are good will have very poor cold start conditions. While GP's are easy and cheap, I'd also have the batteries tested. You may be surprised. It may even sound like its cranking fine when indeed it isn't. 

IMO the weather is much too fair for GP's to have anything to do with it. As stated above, a Dmax will start in the dead of winter without them. 

My next check would be for air in the system as also mentioned above. A cracked filter housing will have similar symptoms. Bad injectors or cups will sometimes have hard start conditions, but there will be other symptoms as well. Heavy smoke, fuel in oil causing near hydrolock, etc.. 

Hope this helps


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

duramax-king;1280842 said:


> Ended up pulling my glow plugs today and it turns out 3 of the 4 on the pass side are bad, so im going to go ahead and replace all of them, hopefully that will fix the problem.
> 
> Thanks for trying to help Dave, Triple L, And Tuney


Make sure you post the end result and how it turned out!
Good luck


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

JD Dave;1280837 said:


> I don't have any of that stuff on my pull truck and I was amazed at how well it started in the winter when I had to move it. I don't drive it in the winter but move it around to work on it. Triple L does know a lot about it as we are friends. Your right about reading the codes though but from what the OP said I assumed he wasn't getting any codes which leads me to what I said but to be honest I'm just guessing. I will say my 02 started just fine with out all the glow plugs working also. I have a tractor right now with the same problem as the OP and I just changed all the fuel lines and I'm letting it sit until Mon to see if the problem is solved.


So I guess what you're saying is that you removed your 2 cold starting aids or just deactivated them.Is that correct? If that's the case,all your buddy had to say then was that your LMM was customized or something like that and we could have avoided some hard feelings now.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

When Dave says he dosent have glow plugs on his LMM, after giving all that advice, do you really think he thought duramax's don't have glow plugs??? Are u serious? And after I said HIS lmm dosent have glow plugs you go crazy asking how old I am and telling me I have a lot to learn and I'm brown nosing... If you know everything then you have A LOT to learn!

Maby you should assume sometimes a few people know what they are talking about and that could have avoided hard feelings...

I'm not saying your wrong or I'm right, but it will be interesting to see the outcome of this issue and if glowplugs will solve the problem...


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Triple L;1280890 said:


> When Dave says he dosent have glow plugs on his LMM, after giving all that advice, do you really think he thought duramax's don't have glow plugs??? Are u serious? And after I said HIS lmm dosent have glow plugs you go crazy asking how old I am and telling me I have a lot to learn and I'm brown nosing... If you know everything then you have A LOT to learn!
> 
> Maby you should assume sometimes a few people know what they are talking about and that could have avoided hard feelings...
> 
> I'm not saying your wrong or I'm right, but it will be interesting to see the outcome of this issue and if glowplugs will solve the problem...


Maybe you just ought to let Dave respond,my post is directed to him.In the meantime why don't you take a valium or three.You really need to chill--talk about taking things out of context,WOW!Are you related to my X wife? Her maiden name was Troubled.


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

Wow this thread was a waste. I'd have to agree with JD, most likely cause would be a leak on the fuel filter head. Check the WIF sensor, the primmer pump, and the bleeder screw.

Glow plugs will set a code. Also Tunney the plugs only heat for a few seconds, they are PWM so they do heat instantly. The voltage drop you are referring to is only from the grid heater and is really only there for emissions reasons.


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## ATouchofGrass (Jan 15, 2008)

Mike L converter, (another worthless comment.)


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

lilweeds;1281051 said:


> Wow this thread was a waste. I'd have to agree with JD, most likely cause would be a leak on the fuel filter head. Check the WIF sensor, the primmer pump, and the bleeder screw.
> 
> Glow plugs will set a code. Also Tunney the plugs only heat for a few seconds, they are PWM so they do heat instantly. The voltage drop you are referring to is only from the grid heater and is really only there for emissions reasons.


Yes,GP's will set a code,the OP never said originally if there was a code but he did say 3 of 4 he pulled were bad on one bank.They will stay on much longer than a ''few'' seconds if it's very cold,up to app.2 minutes in severe cold.After the dash light goes off,they are still on for awhile--there is no GP activated light.Granted,the grid heater uses more juice than the GP's,but there still would be a draw down from the GP's if there wasn't a grid heater.For the record however,I did say I thought there is the possibility of a cracked WIF bowl or a bad seal.I'm sure the OP doesn't consider his thread a waste--don't know why you would say that.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

You can get brass bleeder screws instead of the plastic ones or just be nice to the plastic one. I'd replace the fuel filter just because you don't know when it was done last and the filter will come with a new o-ring for the wif sensor and you will have your hands on the bleeder and can inspect it. It ISN'T the glow plugs it would have thrown a code.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

ATouchofGrass;1281053 said:


> Mike L converter, (another worthless comment.)


I have been reading through all the posts to see if somone was a smart a$$ like me and was going to answer the question. Thumbs Up It looks like it is a Precision Convertor but if the color is dark purple then it is a ATS


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

ATouchofGrass;1281053 said:


> Mike L converter, (another worthless comment.)





Philbilly2;1281490 said:


> I have been reading through all the posts to see if somone was a smart a$$ like me and was going to answer the question. Thumbs Up It looks like it is a Precision Convertor but if the color is dark purple then it is a ATS


Both you guys are right, ita a pecision (ML) converter... Good job


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## ATouchofGrass (Jan 15, 2008)

Figured, i'm building mine in a few weeks, well i should say george (big dipper) is haha. Suncoast stage 4, pump rub fix, transfercase brace, ML converter, and stock ally deep pan. Thought i give you the specs haha.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

ATouchofGrass;1281509 said:


> Figured, i'm building mine in a few weeks, well i should say george (big dipper) is haha. Suncoast stage 4, pump rub fix, transfercase brace, ML converter, and stock ally deep pan. Thought i give you the specs haha.


Ya I got a ATS Extreme with the ML converter... Plan on putting it in myself one of these days when we're not busy...


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

This is a heavy duty setup? Indestructible? For a Allison?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Triple L;1281511 said:


> Ya I got a ATS Extreme with the ML converter... Plan on putting it in myself one of these days when we're not busy...


I have built around a dozen Allisons for guys in my area. Mike L has helped me quite a few times with the little bity corks that these Allisons have when you put them back together and slap them up in the truck.

Been around the pulling circuit for a while. My 03 had a ATS 5 Star Converter, until I fused the clutch plates togther in the convertor and well, lets just say she was junk.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Western1;1281558 said:


> This is a heavy duty setup? Indestructible? For a Allison?


Indestructible is not the word I would use...

The way that I phrase building an Allison is a bit like, putting a deadbolt on a steel door. You are making somthing that is for lack of better words... "already built" even stronger. It will help, but if you want to break it, you will. An Allison 1000 w/ Parking Pawl's GVW is 19,850lbs...on a truck with a GVRW of only 9200lb (2500) or 12,000lb (3500) if that isn't overkill, I don't know what is 

If you have a truck with *stock tuning *and you need build an Allison (more than it is), you are most likley doing somthing wrong. Allisons in there stock state are stronger than a built transmission with bands in them. (ex: 4L80E- found in the 6.5L diesels, and the 6.0 chevy gassers)

One example: Reverse Gear
4L80E's have a very tall reverse gear and just a band that engauges reverse leading to the a very common problem with a 4L80E plow truck... no reverse. If you get stuck in a pile and romp on a 4L80E, the band gets hot and glazed and your are done with reverse.
An Allison engauges the C3 and the C5 clutches which is a very short ratio, hence the reason why you can back an overloaded goosneck up a hill without using 4Lo. Allisons Hi range reverse ratio is more like a 4L80E in 4Lo.

More or less, the convertor is the weak link in the Allision if you start pushing horsepower. So if you start pushing big numbers commonly the convertor will start to slip. This keeps you from tearing up the rest of the truck. So that being said, when you build your transmission, all that that does is open the door to more things breaking, but it also leads to a hole new level of your truck.

But, I will be the first to admit, I having a built transmission is awsome! I loved doing 4 wheel drive burn outs, launching off of stop lights pulling trailer and waxing these kids and their Jap Racers with the stupid trumpet on the exuast. But, like a started before, it opens the door to a hole new truck and a whole new level of fun.

Sorry for the long post, I get going sometimes and don't stop.


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## KSikkema (Oct 7, 2008)

Soooo..... does the truck start better yet???


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

^^^ LOL

And nice post Phil, I enjoyed the read


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Just finished putting the new glow plugs in and still the same thing.....
Checked the fuel lines for leaking, and can't seem to find any leaks, tried bleeding it and still not luck. 
The truck will start right away with quick start, but without it won't ? 
HELP! Don't really want to go out and spend 3 grand on injectors.....


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

If you think your injectors are done fill your fuel filter with seafoam (before biting off new ones) for about $20 it's worth a shot to see if they're just gummed. Your diesel will run on straight seafoam.

From the sound of your problem starting though it's probably a tiny air leak in the fuel system letting it creep in when it sits for a bit. If it's the injectors you would know when you're driving it.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

I can start the truck with quick start and it will run great, truck will have lots of power like all other dmax's ive driven/ had. Also forgot to mention that the previous owner ran red diesel through it, thinking it might have something to do with it ? 
Might be as you said Markus that the injectors are gummed ?


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

duramax-king;1281958 said:


> I can start the truck with quick start and it will run great, truck will have lots of power like all other dmax's ive driven/ had. Also forgot to mention that the previous owner ran red diesel through it, thinking it might have something to do with it ?
> Might be as you said Markus that the injectors are gummed ?


Not quite what I said .I don't think dyed fuel would hurt anything... I would still err on the side of an airleak. Copy/ paste. "If it's the injectors you would know when you're driving it."


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

What is quick start??

Please tell me that it is not either.:realmad:


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Yes it either. I just cant get my head around whats wrong with it, as the only problem with it is to get it started, after its started it will run great, tons of power etc. So ive basicly ruled out injectors.... 
Any sensors that could cause this or a pump driver like on the 6.5 that could go bad ?


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Ether..............just sayingThumbs Up


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

duramax-king;1281942 said:


> Just finished putting the new glow plugs in and still the same thing.....


Isnt that just something   

Sorry about your luck... A friend (one of my subs) had a no go hot start issue with his... He brought it to the mechanic and they drove the living crap out of it for a week and touch wood, its worked great ever since... No word of a lie, but I thought that was something else


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

Did you test the batteries???


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

Please stop using ether it can and will pop the motor unless you disconnect the glow plugs. There is a primer pump on top of the fuel filter housing, does it get soft to pump over night?


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

That was my next question ^^^^^^^^^^


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Please STOP using ether. You are not that far away from having a bigger problem when you gernade that motor!

This is why you do not use ether on a truck with glow plugs.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Let me ask a couple of questions:


Does it crank over fast?

Does it studder start till it runs?

If you have it running, then shut it off, if you try to start it again will it start right up?

Have you pulled your dipstick to check for diesel in the crankcase? 

Do you have access to someone who has EFI Live or better yet a Tech 2?


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Yeah really fast actually, no it doesn't stutted when it catches a little bit it just starts. Yeah it will fire right up if I shut it down then start it again. I have checked the dipstick and there's not diesel in it. I guess I could take it to a shop which does tuning, they will probally have efi live or a tech 2....


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

duramax-king;1282043 said:


> Yeah really fast actually, no it doesn't stutted when it catches a little bit it just starts. Yeah it will fire right up if I shut it down then start it again. I have checked the dipstick and there's not diesel in it. I guess I could take it to a shop which does tuning, they will probally have efi live or a tech 2....


Your injectors are fine, your glow plugs will throw a dummy light if one is not working. My truck's SES light truned on right before the start of plowing season. I have an 07 classic duramax that has weak as hell batterys and 3 glowplugs out right now that fires right up. Smokes a touch when it first pops off after sitting for a few days, but it still runs and i don't have the time to fix the issue right now.

I am going all in on a fuel problem.

I had an '02 that had a problem with the filter housing and it would loose just enough prime to not start the first time every morning. Once you got the fuel back to the filter housing, the truck would run fine. My WIF sensor had a hairline crack in it and it would loose just enough prime to not start well the first time of the day.

So, on that note. Let me recap: 
If bleed the filter before you start it, is doesn't start any faster.
You have changed the fuel filter and made sure the o-rings are all intack.
Have you carefully inspected the WIF sensor for any cracks?
Have you checked the bleeder screw on the top of the filter housing for the o-ring or any cracks?
On the inside of the filter, is the rubber gromet intack and not torn?


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks for going into detail Philbilly as these problems are very common. I have a complete fuel filter housing off an 07 with a wif sensor that I'll sell cheap. Not completely sure if they fit an 02 though. I'm only 20 min from Milton.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

I am going all in on a fuel problem.
So, on that note. Let me recap: 
If bleed the filter before you start it, is doesn't start any faster.
You have changed the fuel filter and made sure the o-rings are all intack.
Have you carefully inspected the WIF sensor for any cracks?
Have you checked the bleeder screw on the top of the filter housing for the o-ring or any cracks?
On the inside of the filter, is the rubber gromet intack and not torn?[/QUOTE]

This is why 4 days ago I said to replace the fuel filter, you will have your hands on items in question and eliminate one all together (the filter). As someone already mentioned, fill the filter with an injector cleaner of your choice when you replace it.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

NICHOLS LANDSCA;1282083 said:


> I am going all in on a fuel problem.
> So, on that note. Let me recap:
> If bleed the filter before you start it, is doesn't start any faster.
> You have changed the fuel filter and made sure the o-rings are all intack.
> ...


There is no disagreement here. The thread as taken quite a few turns here. (I will take partial blame for some of it)

I read back threw the whole thing again, and for some reason I thought that the fuel filter had already been changed.That wouldshould have been the first thing that should have done. Crap, seems like if anything is not right with your truck, you need to try a fuel filter. It is dumb how many problems are solved by a new fuel filter.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

I have replaced the fuel filter and there is no difference... Tried priming the fuel filter and it did lose its prime over night. 
Didnt have time to insepect the o rings/ filter housing, will check on that tomorrow, hopefully i can track down this leak.


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## musclecarboy (Aug 19, 2007)

Define "hard start".... 5 secs? 8 secs? 20 secs?


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Won't start for 5 minutes of straight cranking....


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

So your the Duramax King and your asking us peasants how to start your truck. Your going to need a starter soon if you cranked it straight for 5 min also.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

5 minutes of cranking????

Wow, are you bleeding the air out of the filter when you are priming it, or just pumping the bulb on the top of the filter housing down till it gets hard?


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

duramax-king;1282133 said:


> I have replaced the fuel filter and there is no difference... Tried priming the fuel filter and it did lose its prime over night.
> Didnt have time to insepect the o rings/ filter housing, will check on that tomorrow, hopefully i can track down this leak.


Also check to see that when you changed your filter,you didn't accidentally leave behind the old rubber seal as many times it will stay on the filter head.If you now have 2 seals that also will cause an air leak.


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## musclecarboy (Aug 19, 2007)

It has to be an air leak if it runs fine. Open the bleed screw and pump until the foam is gone... Just pumping the hell out of it will still leave air in the filter.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Took the bleeding screw out and pumped it until there were not bubbles left, and as i stopped i could see the fuel level droping. 
Was wondering if anyone could tell me how i should go about pressureizing the tank and checking for leaks ?


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

I'd take a blow gun and a rag, wrap the blow gun with the rag to help create a seal and pressurize the tank. Use common sense when pressurizing, but with the rag as the seal you shouldn't be able to pop anything.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Call me carzy, but if you don't have the bleeder screw in the hole, it is going to go back to the tank every time. You are creating a siphon with the pump bulb and the bleeder screw.

Your fuel lines are like a straw in a cup of water.
If you hold your finger (aka bleeder screw) over the top of the straw (aka fuel line), you will be able to hold water in the line until you take your finger off it. 

How much fuel is in your tank? 
Does this happen at full tank and 1/4 tank?
How is the o-ring on the bleeder screw?
Do you put oil on the o-rings when you install them?

I will bet on it right now that you have a cracked WIF sensor or a cracked bleeder screw. If not, one of your gaskets or o-rings is torn, cracked, or pinched.

I would not advise that you pressurize your tank. I believe that you will be wasting your time with that. Your problem is in the filter head or in the fuel pickup.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Tried pressureizing the tank and couldnt find any leaks, Wif sensor is good, no cracks in the filter housing, Filter is new. Going on to check the fuel lines which go to the injection pump next aswell as the fuel rails...
Edit- Will check the wif sensor again tomorrow but when i looked at it last it was good. 
There is 3/4 a tank of fuel in it, O ring on the bleeder screw is good, No.....
Is there suppost to be a small gap on the side of the bleeder screw ?


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## musclecarboy (Aug 19, 2007)

I'm pretty sure you just turn the bleeder a bit to open it, not remove it. Not sure what you did or if it even matters, but I was just thinking that. Also, does it fire right up when it wants to go or stumble and sputter for a bit?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

duramax-king;1282285 said:


> Tried pressureizing the tank and couldnt find any leaks, Wif sensor is good, no cracks in the filter housing, Filter is new. Going on to check the fuel lines which go to the injection pump next aswell as the fuel rails...
> Edit- Will check the wif sensor again tomorrow but when i looked at it last it was good.
> There is 3/4 a tank of fuel in it, O ring on the bleeder screw is good, No.....
> Is there suppost to be a small gap on the side of the bleeder screw ?


Your problem is before the filter housing. You are loosing prime to the filter housing somwhere.

Was the No answer for:

Do you have the problem with a full tank of fuel?
or
Do you use oil on the o-rings when you install them?

Yes on the gap. The o-ring is what makes the seal. The gap on the side allows the fuel to get out when you crack the bleeder screw.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

No answer for using oil on the Using oil on the o rings before installing.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

duramax-king;1282315 said:


> No answer for using oil on the Using oil on the o rings before installing.


I put oil on the o rings before installing them on my truck... I dont know if thats good or not... I havent had any trouble tho...


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

The oil on an o-ring will allow it to slide as you install somthing. If you leave it dry, it can cause the o-ring to pinch and leave a little air gap as it gets tight.

As for the other thing, does the truck still do this with a full tank of fuel? Have you tried it with a full tank?


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

duramax-king;1282285 said:


> Tried pressureizing the tank and couldnt find any leaks, Wif sensor is good, no cracks in the filter housing, Filter is new. Going on to check the fuel lines which go to the injection pump next aswell as the fuel rails...
> Edit- Will check the wif sensor again tomorrow but when i looked at it last it was good.
> There is 3/4 a tank of fuel in it, O ring on the bleeder screw is good, No.....
> Is there suppost to be a small gap on the side of the bleeder screw ?


To eliminate the possibility of what I previously said,do yourself a favor and find your discarded old fuel filter and see if the rubber seal in the middle[NOT your perimeter O-ring] is on that filter.If it's missing, there's a good chance it's still on your filter head,along with the new one,which again will cause an air leak.


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Hey guys sorry I haven't gotten back been really busy lately. The proplem with the truck ended up beening the injerctors, so I sold it.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

So how did you come to that conclusion?


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## duramax-king (Oct 29, 2009)

Hooked up a computer,


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