# Need help with noise in my ford



## flyguyirvin65 (Feb 18, 2015)

I have a 2000 350 superduty and have strange noise in front end. I think its coming from drive line. It sounds like a washer spinning on a shaft that gets out of balance. Its trigger by a bump in road, when I lock the hubs in I dont get the noise. I turn the warn hubs apart and everything looks fine there greased, no metal shaving and work properly. The axle shaft that goes through the hub has play up and down but is same on both sides. All the u joints are good with no play and are greased. The pinion has some play but nothing bad.
I have no idea what it is so before I tear everything apart looking for the problem I though I would ask to see if anyone could point me in the right direction.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

How many miles are on it? The axle shafts should not have much of any up down play. Where the outer axle goes through the hub there is s bearing in there that may have failed. No noise with hubs in, engage one at a time, see when the noise goes away. There is a special tool needed to replace the outer axle seals.


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## flyguyirvin65 (Feb 18, 2015)

Truck has 140k on it. one hub assembly was replaced last year other few years ago


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Randall Ave said:


> How many miles are on it? The axle shafts should not have much of any up down play. Where the outer axle goes through the hub there is s bearing in there that may have failed. No noise with hubs in, engage one at a time, see when the noise goes away. There is a special tool needed to replace the outer axle seals.


Randall, Quick ? for you, Had the front drive shaft busted off my duramax allison, The oil light came on and my man shut it down. He said the oil was gushing out bad, He said it was not coming out of the oil pan. We got a lot of snow here and have not got it to the shop yet. Any thoughts? Could the shaft busted the filter or could I have further problems. I know it would be hard to know without looking at it. Just thoughts, Thanks


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

FredG said:


> Randall, Quick ? for you, Had the front drive shaft busted off my duramax allison, The oil light came on and my man shut it down. He said the oil was gushing out bad, He said it was not coming out of the oil pan. We got a lot of snow here and have not got it to the shop yet. Any thoughts? Could the shaft busted the filter or could I have further problems. I know it would be hard to know without looking at it. Just thoughts, Thanks


Fred you talking actual front drive shaft? Or CV?

What type of oil was it? Trans, motor, or gear?


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Philbilly2 said:


> Fred you talking actual front drive shaft? Or CV?
> 
> What type of oil was it? Trans, motor, or gear?


The front drive shaft, The back of the shaft was still connected, Motor oil was gushing out but did not appear to be oil pan. The motor oil message come on and my man shut it down. Snowed hard here have not got it to shop yet. Maybe I could fix it on the job. It's out of the way and all coned off.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Look at the filter . Has to be in the area right there.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Randall Ave said:


> Look at the filter . Has to be in the area right there.


Thank You, That would be great, I don't need a tow.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Right on. Randall. 

Fred, take a new engine oil filter, your filter wrench, and 10 quarts with you.

When the front of shaft goes, it takes the engine oil filter out with it. Stay out of 4wd and tie the shaft up or pull it and tape a Gatorade bottle in the yoke hole on the t case. For some reason, a Gatorade bottle slides right in the yoke hole.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Looked at a you tube video, the oil filter is right above the front carrier in that vid. I don't see that much smaller stuff. Take 10 quarts of oil with you


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Thanks, Randall and Phil, Your input probably saved me a tow and is appreciated. Thumbs Up


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Back to the Ford. Jack up the front. Start spinning stuff. Have you ever pull the front axles out yourself before? At that age and mileage. Things are getting ready to be replaced.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

OP, Sorry I high jacked your post, Lots of snow here.Thumbs Up


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

FredG said:


> OP, Sorry I high jacked your post, Lots of snow here.Thumbs Up


All the guys with the right answers were here.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

All's good Fred. When things calm down post a snow pic or 2.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

FredG said:


> OP, Sorry I high jacked your post, Lots of snow here.Thumbs Up


oop's  :laughing:


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Randall Ave said:


> All's good Fred. When things calm down post a snow pic or 2.


Not a huge deal, About 13''. It's melting rapidly. Try to get some pics. LOL if I can figure it out, Last time I tried sizing them and all it kept failing on me.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

To the OP. You say the U joints are good and greased. Which ones. As stated before you should pull the front axles and check the u-joints on those axle shafts. Bronco Graveyard parts has some some nice strong u joints for those axles. You need a few seals from ford to do this as well. While you are there it is a must to check the ball joints.
T.J.


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## flyguyirvin65 (Feb 18, 2015)

I tore it apart yesterday, the bearing was in ok shape but what I found was no thrust washers were installed. So I through it back together and ordered everything seals, bearing, thrust washers and snap rings. Im going to do both sides and that should fix the problem. The u joints are in good shape but it would be crazy to not replace them so I will. Thanks for your help


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Doing a customer's f 350 now. When I do mine. Usually cause failed ball joints. Everything is replaced.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Flyguy, you mentioned a little play in pinion, rotational play? Or up/down? If it's up down, or side to side you have an issue, would typically lend itself to a growling sound however.
Onto your thrust washer, so do you think the sound is coming from your axle moving in and out? Do to the missing washer? Would this creat the sound your hearing?


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

Sorry ANY play in the pinion is BAD up down in out all bad. rotational play 0.007"


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## Jeep_thing (Mar 3, 2014)

theplowmeister said:


> Sorry ANY play in the pinion is BAD up down in out all bad. rotational play 0.007"


High side (.015) and even plus some is much safer, will not hurt anything, and can be quieter. Too tight often leads to failure which guys then blame on the parts.


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## flyguyirvin65 (Feb 18, 2015)

Its rotational play bearings are tight. I didnt pull the diff cover off but I will. If the wear pattern is bad I will rebuild diff.
Its sounds like noise is coming from hub area, when I put it back together to order parts I packed hub with grease and now I dont have the noise. everything looked good but no thrust washer ( the large one) so Im thinking thats where the noise was coming from


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

If I'm correct, u have a large snap ring that holds the hub on. Then inside a snap ring on the axle. Three washers being it. Between the hub bearing and axle, there is another thrust washer. What one are you referring to?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Sure it isn't the small dust seal rattling around? Very common on super duty, located inboard of U joint. There is a upgrade for the seal but from what I have heard they also fail with a few years also.


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## flyguyirvin65 (Feb 18, 2015)

Its the large one between the hub bearing and seal.The hub bearing housing was wearing into the seal. I ordered everything.
Yes the diff tube dust seal was in two pieces and could be the noise. I ordered the new style seal.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

This is somewhat inline with this subject. For those that like to tinker and increase the longevity of these unit hub bearings that we are pleaged with now days. I did not come up with this, but have completed the up-grade to both Ford and Dodge unit hub bearings with great success. I'm using mileage as my measuring stick on how well it works. The idea is simple, drill, tap and add a zerk to the unit hub so you can push a little grease into them once or twice a year. The bearings are not sealed on the inside, they are open to the reluctor ( for ABS modles ) so this void can be filled with grease ( not packed ) and it will help to keep the bearing lubed. Your ABS will not be effected by the presents of the grease. The Dodge trucks are notorious for going through unit hub bearings, I think the diesels are worse due to the extra weight but I don't have proof of that, just buddies that have gone threw them. The only trick is taking your time and capturing all the metal filings from the drill and tap. I use magnets and grease. The first hole is very small, like 1/8". I drill almost all the way and stop, blowing out the filings. Then drill the correct size for the tap, just deep enough to get the job done. blowing out the filings. Then tap the hole. The last thing is to pop the 1/8" hole the rest of the way threw, here's where I use magnets and some grease on the bit as I break threw, so any filings don't get into the bearing cavity. Clean it up, install zerk, attach grease gun with your favorite cold weather grease ( I use a lot of mobile -1 synthetic ) shoot a pump or two in, turn the hub, pump a little more and so on. Just don't pack it tight, to much grease is a bad thing for a captured bearing set like this. Couple notes, you need to pull your breaks off to get at the unit hub and you can pull your ABS or wheel speed sensor to see how much grease your adding. Heres some photo's when I did my superduty hubs on my plow truck. Photos didn't load in order, but you get the idea.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Face the zerk forward for access. ( I know!!, got a little carried away with paint on this build) You need to pull your wheel to get in there, but you will only hit these 1 or 2 times a year. The older these get the more wear on the seals and they tend to toss out / leak the factory grease out. So, I did this to my 04 Dodge at about 120K and have 180K on it now, same unit hubs.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

have you ever pulled the bearing out of a hub?


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

scottr said:


> View attachment 168015
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> ...


Instead of drilling the sealed bearing hub assembly. I machined up a brass fitting with a zerk on it that allows you to remove the speed sensor, then push the fitting in with the zerk, grease it, remove the machined fitting with the zerk and then re-install the wheel speed sensor. I have been doing this for years and have had not issues at all. I will see if I can find a pic of what I made.
T.J.


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## Jeep_thing (Mar 3, 2014)

TJS said:


> Instead of drilling the sealed bearing hub assembly. I machined up a brass fitting with a zerk on it that allows you to remove the speed sensor, then push the fitting in with the zerk, grease it, remove the machined fitting with the zerk and then re-install the wheel speed sensor. I have been doing this for years and have had not issues at all. I will see if I can find a pic of what I made.
> T.J.


Isn't the speed sensor mounted on the spindle? Don't see how grease woul get into the bearings?


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

nope. in the hub where the bearings are. been doing this for years.


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## Jeep_thing (Mar 3, 2014)

TJS said:


> nope. in the hub where the bearings are. been doing this for years.


Yes I have too.. and am not doubting you, just trying to picture this one in my head as most exciter rings are attached to the rotor although I have seen them other places,
what is the exciter ring mounted on in that case? Maybe machined into the stub shaft?


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

SnoFarmer said:


> have you ever pulled the bearing out of a hub?


No I have not. Just seen plenty go bad, ( grind, growl, sound like they are dry and without lube)


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

TJS said:


> Instead of drilling the sealed bearing hub assembly. I machined up a brass fitting with a zerk on it that allows you to remove the speed sensor, then push the fitting in with the zerk, grease it, remove the machined fitting with the zerk and then re-install the wheel speed sensor. I have been doing this for years and have had not issues at all. I will see if I can find a pic of what I made.
> T.J.


I like this idea, would like to see a photo of your set up.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

trying to upload from my phone


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Can't remember what I fitting I used to machine down to the size of the abs sensor but I made it a snug fit so when you put grease in the hub the fitting does not pop out. 
Jeep_thing, go to rock auto and look up the ford super duty hub. You will see what I mean.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

Not to throw cold water on what looks like a pretty interesting mod, but I have one big question. Isn't the bearing that you're trying to lubricate a _sealed_ bearing? To me, that would mean that no matter where you tried to introduce additional grease, you'd be pretty much wasting your time.

BTW, I love the way that fully painted up install looks. Unfortunately, up here in the road salt capital of the world, it would be a rusted mess in one season.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Too Stroked said:


> Not to throw cold water on what looks like a pretty interesting mod, but I have one big question. Isn't the bearing that you're trying to lubricate a _sealed_ bearing? To me, that would mean that no matter where you tried to introduce additional grease, you'd be pretty much wasting your time.
> 
> BTW, I love the way that fully painted up install looks. Unfortunately, up here in the road salt capital of the world, it would be a rusted mess in one season.


I was right there with Ya. A sealed bearing should be seAled on both sides.
I Gaye guys crap that did this mod.
Then I saw a hub tAken apart.
And the bearing is open to the inside with some grease on the ring for the anti lock.

So I expanded my horizons .....


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

There sealed to a point. The back side, some grease over time will seap out. It's a good idea if you do your own maintenance. But there are guys out there who would not be able to do this. Trying to be nice and not say can't change a lightbulb on their own


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

the hub is sealed up because you will need a press to get it apart.

you can pump grease in the speed sensor hole and if you can purge it.
the grease can enter the bearing. as only one side of the bearing has a seal on it.

you can see it in this vid.
these hillbillies have a "goodtime" rebuilding one.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I would not want to drive anything those two worked on.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Randall Ave said:


> I would not want to drive anything those two worked on.


lol I agree, but they do show what it looks like inside.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

SnoFarmer said:


> lol I agree, but they do show what it looks like inside.


I've had them come apart removing them. And the customer gets a new one. Did the OP ever figure out what the noise was?


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