# Magentic or Permenant, need help choosing lights



## Supper Grassy (May 31, 2007)

I am looking for some help on choosing some strobes for my truck. I would like to get a light bar and i am reading that permanent is the best option but how is that accomplished on a ram 2500? The truck barely fits in most parking garages at it is now and adding a permanent bar will mean that i can not pull the truck into my garage. For my regular job i drive on the turnpike and i am not sure if a magnetic bar will be able to withstand that. I was thinking a headache rack for the back but i have an undercover bed cover that prevents me from adding one. Any help is greatly apprecaited


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## toyotaboy (Sep 23, 2011)

how about the ones you hook up to your truck lights themselves that have the strobe or flashing effect by flipping a switch and you dont have to worry lights on top of your truck not exactly sure how it all works because i use a magnetic one for my roof right now that goes on prior to the storm and off after that was about $70 and its fairly decent going on third year with it now


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## nixray (Jan 31, 2008)

As Toyotaboy is referring to, they are aftermarket cab clearance lights with a built in strobe function. Recon lighting makes them not sure if others? But you could do this then put strobes in the back window or 3rd brake light and if you have a extended cab or bigger put like 2 ti3-r (wheelen) or the like.
All in all it's easy to do 360* lighting with out a becon or bar.


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## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

Supper Grassy;1553030 said:


> I am looking for some help on choosing some strobes for my truck. I would like to get a light bar and i am reading that permanent is the best option but how is that accomplished on a ram 2500? The truck barely fits in most parking garages at it is now and adding a permanent bar will mean that i can not pull the truck into my garage. For my regular job i drive on the turnpike and i am not sure if a magnetic bar will be able to withstand that. I was thinking a headache rack for the back but i have an undercover bed cover that prevents me from adding one. Any help is greatly apprecaited


whelen liberty is a low profile unit


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## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

If you are looking at the Back Rack, they have a mount for mini light bars that folds down towards the back. And there are also some bed covers that are able to work with the Back Rack. I will agree that magnet mounts can come off on the highway. I used to always have mine on my truck and never had a problem going 80mph on the highway, then one day I was going 55 getting on the highway and it flew off and hit my back window (no damage) but scared the hell outta me!

Strobe Hide-Aways are always another option.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Next best thing is doing interior lighting and hide-a-ways. Either led or strobe. I have all interior lighting in my truck and love it. I never have to worry about a lighbar being stolen, blown off, rust rings from magnets. It was a little more money to go this route, but worth it. I also installed it all myself (kind of a hobby I do on the side anyway) so that was a money saver aswell. But you don't have to look like a slick top police car. A dash light in the front, something in the side windows (if you have them) and a traffic arrow that doubles as a warning bar. I have all sound off signal products in my truck and haven't had a issue with them. 

In the front tucked up tight with the headliner on the passenger side I have a ultra light 4 head. 
In the rear window I have a ultra light 8 head tight with the headliner aswell. 
In the rear amber turn signals I have the sound off universal led hide-a-ways
In the front grille (work in process) I am putting the led3s. 2 in amber and 2 in clear. The clears are going to be on a park kill so when the truck goes into park the clears shut off.


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## JK-Plow (Feb 10, 2008)

The clearance lights that flash are Atomic lights. Strobes n More sell them. If you don't drive on the freeway, a magnetic is fine. Some light bars have stronger magnets then are needed and will hold on quite well. Magnetic is never recommended for a moving vehicle, but they can still work. One option is the Atomic lights (clearance lights) and a set of lights in the back window. Then hiden lights in the backup lights and the front corner lights.


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## BigBoyPlowin (Nov 16, 2012)

I have never had my lightbar fly off. I have 5 ABLE || LED lightbars on my trucks... Sitting tallest is my GMC 4500 I drove it to miami and Back though a Horrible storm on the freeways andnever had a problem. I take my 2500's with the lightbars though the carwash.. never had a problem. Its a magnet mount...


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## Supper Grassy (May 31, 2007)

What would you use for interior lighting in the rear. And would you do a visor mount or dash mount in the front? 

Is it better to get a switch panel and mount it or run on all cig plugs? This is my first time adding any strobes to a truck

The lights will be dual purpose for snore and also visibility at my full time job which is heavy highway construction


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## fordtruck661 (Feb 26, 2011)

Supper Grassy;1554261 said:


> What would you use for interior lighting in the rear. And would you do a visor mount or dash mount in the front?
> 
> Is it better to get a switch panel and mount it or run on all cig plugs? This is my first time adding any strobes to a truck
> 
> The lights will be dual purpose for snore and also visibility at my full time job which is heavy highway construction


You could use a whelen SlimLighter for the back. and it is better to hard wire them and not have to deal with all the cig plugs.


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## BigBoyPlowin (Nov 16, 2012)

Supper Grassy;1554261 said:


> What would you use for interior lighting in the rear. And would you do a visor mount or dash mount in the front?
> 
> Is it better to get a switch panel and mount it or run on all cig plugs? This is my first time adding any strobes to a truck
> 
> The lights will be dual purpose for snore and also visibility at my full time job which is heavy highway construction


The options are endless.. Depending on how "Flashy" you want to be and how deep your pockets are.

*
If you just have one or two strobes a Cig. Plug is fine.. But since you would use them in the summer too, i would go with a more permanent / cleaner look with a switch panel. *

Too many cig. plugs becomes a hassle especially when you want to charge your phone!
Also with some strobes you will have a flash module box therefore a panel would be nice because you can tuck all that away. leaving your trucks appearance a lot cleaner and profesional.


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## Supper Grassy (May 31, 2007)

Where can I look for a switch panel and where do you locate it


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## fordtruck661 (Feb 26, 2011)

Supper Grassy;1554350 said:


> Where can I look for a switch panel and where do you locate it


http://www.strobesnmore.com/switches.html


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## BigBoyPlowin (Nov 16, 2012)

Supper Grassy;1554350 said:


> Where can I look for a switch panel and where do you locate it


You have to know what you will be powering before you get a switch panel.. Do you plan to change the pattern on the lights Or will the flash be built in? Does your truck have any upfitter switches? If so those are really slick when people wire strobes into them..

Just food for thought.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Tomorrow I will post pics of my light and how I have them mounted inside my truck


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## jhall22guitar (Dec 11, 2011)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OT7O7G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

I bought this to run all my lights off of. I have had NO problems at all with it not working, its cheap but it works really well. I run a Axixtech Mini Bar and 2 Mini Phantom Dash/Deck lights with it and recently added a Cobra Radar Detector to it. Works great.

(This is until I am able to get a more permanent truck, didnt want to put $500 or more into a truck with 145K miles and then have it break a day later.)


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## Supper Grassy (May 31, 2007)

If I have to do magnetic and drive highway speeds is an led or beacon bar better?


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## BigBoyPlowin (Nov 16, 2012)

LED is uses less power.. Which is nice while plowing.
LED You can see in the daylight and at night..
Beacon you cant see well in the daylight

If you really want some bright lights that you can see during the day or night just go out and get dome Code 3 LED lights i think they're called.... The same ones the county trucks use on their trucks. I considered them until i saw the pricetag...


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Code 3 is nice, but way over priced. Whelen imo has better a better product. I do like Sound off though as they are local to me and are about 20 minutes away.

Here is how I mounted my leds. Everything was custom done by me.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Last one of the bar in the rear window and the switch panel.


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## Supper Grassy (May 31, 2007)

I saw http://www.ebay.com/itm/54-LED-Emer...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce6479a7&vxp=mtr do you think that would work or am i wasting my time?

Also If you any recommendations on where to get lights i am open to suggestions. I really am liking the interior lights it looks a lot cleaner but i dont know where to begin with ordering or what to order since i have never done any strobe Lightning on my truck. Even a link to what would be good if the above set isnt good would be greatly appreciated


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

I would shy away from those chinese lights. A lot of guys try them, and then have issues with the bulbs burning out, or the flasher dying, or the hole thing just not working from the get go.

Here is what I have.

Front windshield - http://www.thepublicsafetystore.com/sound-off-ultralite-4.html
Rear window - http://www.thepublicsafetystore.com/soundoff-ultralite-08-head-led-interior-lightbar.html
Side windows - http://www.thepublicsafetystore.com/sound-off-dual-ultralite-dashlight.html

I haven't ordered the side window lights yet. (dual led light) I am still deciding if I want to just use the individual led3s in amber and white and have the whites hooked to the park kill so when the truck is in park my white flashing leds shut off. Just like on fire trucks. Or if I just want to use amber/amber and not have to make the housing for the individual leds.

This stuff adds up in price, but you don't have to worry about parking garage height restrictions, they aren't out in the elements, theres no rust rings from the magnets, they wont fly off going down the highway, no cords slapping and rubbing on the roof from the wind rubbing the paint off the roof. The pros def out weight the cons.


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## BigBoyPlowin (Nov 16, 2012)

Supper Grassy;1558192 said:


> I saw http://www.ebay.com/itm/54-LED-Emer...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ce6479a7&vxp=mtr do you think that would work or am i wasting my time?


I have never used them in a serious Application haha But I have them on one of my ATV Liquid spray trailers... They were right under the spray bar.. Most were getting covered in liquid.. a couple of them dont light up now.. But at night no one knows the difference. I got them for 5 bucks free shipping so it wasnt a bad deal. Just something i did while bored..

They would probably work betting inside the truck.. and at night.. Forget about the day time use though!


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## mranum (Jan 16, 2013)

Bumping an older thread here, How did you access the panel to put switches there?



RBRONKEMA GHTFD;1557700 said:


> Last one of the bar in the rear window and the switch panel.


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## bam (Jan 14, 2001)

i have two trucks.

one has interior suction cupped whelen talons (avenger) and slimlighter.

Dual talon front, single talon right and left window, and dual slimllighter to the rear.
A few years ago about $600 to setup. I actually left the cig plug attached and bought a 3 plug outlet to plug 3 of the four lights into. Very effective setup.

In another truck I have surface mount lights mounted to a backrack.
two linz6 to the front, two linz6 to the side and 6 500 series liner to the rear.
controlled with a ulf44 flasher, though that is not needed. That's $750 in lights.
I am working in a high traffic commercial setting and a hospital. If I was in a slower, low traffic area, i would just have the two lights to the rear, instead of six. It is very effective.
My clearance is 7' in a ford f350. I can also fold the backrack back to lose a few inches.

I really like the whelen linz6. They are small, but have an extremely bright output.


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## BigBoyPlowin (Nov 16, 2012)

mranum;1578815 said:


> Bumping an older thread here, How did you access the panel to put switches there?


When i did it on a customers 2500 i had to first drop the dome light console.. then drop the headliner to pull all the wires for the switch box. You can do it without dropping the headliner but its a pain...

what truck do you have? There might be pics online.


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## mranum (Jan 16, 2013)

Its the Tahoe in this thread. http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=143731

Still haven't made up my mind just what I'm doing for lights yet, other than I want them on switches and not cig. plugs.


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## Eggie329 (Nov 25, 2009)

I just bought some magnetic Sho-me Able 2 LED mini bars like BigBoyPlowin has. I was looking for a little upgrade from the old halogen rotators without a lot of expense. I love the Able 2 so far; very bright, fair price, and extremely strong magnets!


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## wilsonsground (Jun 29, 2012)

Research atomic strobe cab lights and hideaways for the tail lights


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

mranum;1578815 said:


> Bumping an older thread here, How did you access the panel to put switches there?


I'll get some pics here in a little bit.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Please see attached pics.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Pics continued.


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## watatrp (Jan 10, 2001)

I like simplicity. I have 1" clearance to get in my garage. I have a strobe beacon that when up above the cab will not clear my garage door. My solution was to buy a square piece of metal that I attached my strobe beacon to. I then attached two door hinges to the metal. One hinge is attached to the square piece of metal and my backrack. Now it is on a hinge that can fold down when not in use. The second hinge is attached to the square piece of metal so that when I swing the beacon up, it falls down and holds the assembly up against the backrack. To lower it, I just fold one hinge up and it allows the assembly to fold down. Cost was for a square piece of metal, $6, two door hinges $8 and a few screws.


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## mranum (Jan 16, 2013)

Thanks for the pictorial!

Nicely done.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

mranum;1581434 said:


> Thanks for the pictorial!
> 
> Nicely done.


Thanks. I try and take as much pride in my work as possible.


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## mranum (Jan 16, 2013)

What did you use for the switch base? Looks like a 1/4" piece of UHMW.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

It's just black plastic. I get it in 4x8 sheets and make consoles out of it.


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