# Modifying a Plow to fit on a Bobcat



## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Can someone please help me. I have a s175 bobcat and just picked up a 8.5' diamond plow, A frame and cylinders. Anyone have any plans on how to attach it to the bobcat? I also bought a weld plate for the front bobtach's. I plan on welding on this plate to hold the plow. Just wondering what others have done? Do you keep the mounting holes like it would have mounted on the truck so it can go up and down? Do you cut them off and weld a flat plate aross the A frame so then you can weld that to the weld plate? How do you hook up the hydraulics? On the original truck pump, didnt one hydraulic float while the other pushed? How is this done on the bobcat? Do i need to upgrade the little hoses on the the cylinders? How do you conver from the little hoses up to the big flat faced connector.

Please send me some close up pictures of what you all have done.

Thanks
ERIK


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

Here is a setup I made last year.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

how did you do the hydraulics? Does it work easily?


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

Yes it works fine. Take the lines and run them to the two remotes on the arms of the machine.


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## RLM (Jan 12, 2006)

I would try to give it some occsulation, side to side float. Without this one side has more presure than the other. We have some of the original Bobcat brand plows they are ridgid mount like you are describing building as they aged (wore) they are easier to use.


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

The Fishers don't need any kind of oscillation plate they have enough play in them already. We have been using them on skid steers for many years on a variety of sloped areas and haven't had any issues with it. If you think about it there really is no difference in setting up any normal plow for skid mount vs. a setup for a p/u truck.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

What are you refering to when saying oscilation?


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Here is the plow i picked up. The a frame has seen a lot of welding in its days. I was thinking of cutting of the parts that the pins go through off and welding a 1/2" plate between the two arms of the A frame and then welding the entire thing onto the weld plate. I would then make an arm that would hold up the chains.

Second thought would be to keep the pin's like on a truck and just weld two plates sticking perpendiucular off the plate with two 3/4" holes in it so I would keep the pins. Just not sure how strong this would be. Well if i was concerned how stong the plates sticking off the front of the weld plate were, i could weld a piece of stock across the two and tie it also into the weld plate. I think i might do the second option, this way i could weld a 2" recevier to the plate also and use it for moving my trailers around. In the 2" receiver i would alos use this to make me an arm to hold up the chains. Man options, options, options....

Thoughts?

Thanks
ERIK


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## RLM (Jan 12, 2006)

There are several differt ways to get the occilation. Look at the plows built by Snow wolf, Protec, Bobcats's HD series, the list goes on. The reason is a bobcat has no suspension or movement to the axles (like a wheel loader). It puts more presure on the inner part of the cutting edge (when blade is angled), while the outer edge could be 1-2" off the ground. This is the same principal that cause truck cutting edges to "smile", only a truck has the suspension to absorb some of the presure & steers differently. If the blade is to tight on the bobcat in makes everything more difficult because it lightens up traction on one of the front tires/causes more drag on that sides.
We almost gave up plowing with skids due to a combination of this, an 8' blade on to small of a machine (753) & traction issues. We have fixed all these issues over the years, our skidsteer we use now will push snow with a 10' pusher till snow is pouring over the top on flat lots with a ridgid mounted pusher, it the pusher occilated like bobcat brands new ones do who know what it would be capable of. With a well worn (holes pins oblonged) 8' angle blade it is unstoppable. We now utilize a larger machine (873), snow tires (make the biggest difference) & plow is worn.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Still dont get the oscillation, are you saying the plow wont contour the ground and I will need to do something to make it countour the ground? So I guess I can oversize the holes that the pins go into on the weld plate pieces that i will be welding on. This will allow for a little slop and the blade will rockback and forth. I did find the cutting edge is severly warn and it has eaten into the trip edge. Also they must of hit soemthing hard since the cylinder pins are bend very badly. All fixable i suppose.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Are you saying my bobcat wont push the snow with the 8'-6" blade? I have the solid rubber tires on her. I wish i got one with tracks.


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

sokoservices;1641064 said:


> Still dont get the oscillation, are you saying the plow wont contour the ground and I will need to do something to make it countour the ground? So I guess I can oversize the holes that the pins go into on the weld plate pieces that i will be welding on. This will allow for a little slop and the blade will rockback and forth. I did find the cutting edge is severly warn and it has eaten into the trip edge. Also they must of hit soemthing hard since the cylinder pins are bend very badly. All fixable i suppose.


I wouldn't worry about it.


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## RLM (Jan 12, 2006)

I'm just sharing my experiences


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## fireside (Mar 1, 2008)

I have built several skidsteer/tractor plows. This is what I have learned after using them for 12 years. You don't need side to side motion. it will plow and scrape no diffirent than a 8' plow on a truck will. The most important thing with a skidsteer is let the plow float the more down pressure you use takes away traction. Just like using a box on small skidsteers once the box is almost full pick it up a little and it will push awesome.

As for hydros they are no problem but you do need a crossover valve to prevent plow damage.



If you search this site I posted pictures of my "john derre 110 plow". I don't know how to post the link and it will not let me post the pictures again.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

fireside;1641093 said:


> I have built several skidsteer/tractor plows. This is what I have learned after using them for 12 years. You don't need side to side motion. it will plow and scrape no diffirent than a 8' plow on a truck will. The most important thing with a skidsteer is let the plow float the more down pressure you use takes away traction. Just like using a box on small skidsteers once the box is almost full pick it up a little and it will push awesome.
> 
> As for hydros they are no problem but you do need a crossover valve to prevent plow damage.
> 
> If you search this site I posted pictures of my "john derre 110 plow". I don't know how to post the link and it will not let me post the pictures again.


Any chance you have the Graigner part number for the crossover or chushion valve?

Thanks
ERIK


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## fireside (Mar 1, 2008)

I will look for the part number. Northern tool also sells the valve.


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

RLM;1641076 said:


> I'm just sharing my experiences


Me too!


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## fireside (Mar 1, 2008)

The blade you have will work. You will just need to use caution using down pressure as they will rip up lose pavement really easy do to cutting edge attack angle. It also makes a very simply made box plow with steel trip edge design. two 1/4 plates and some rubber you got a pusher box that angles too.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

fireside;1641113 said:


> I will look for the part number. Northern tool also sells the valve.


Looks like its a 4HL35


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

fireside;1641116 said:


> The blade you have will work. You will just need to use caution using down pressure as they will rip up lose pavement really easy do to cutting edge attack angle. It also makes a very simply made box plow with steel trip edge design. two 1/4 plates and some rubber you got a pusher box that angles too.


From the front on picture above, the cutting edge is very warn down to the trip edge. Where do i get the repalcement steel cutting wear bar?


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Big Dog D;1640996 said:


> Here is a setup I made last year.


We have found the plows work much better leaving a heavy chain for the lift instead of making them rigid. They also will ride up better when you hit something. I guess rigid would work better for scraping up hard pack. Just my experience.


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

That was our first trial at rigid. All of the previous ones we made and used were all just chained. I didn't get a chance to use it this past winter but the feedback I got was that it did the job. I had an extra blade hanging around that I got for nothing, we just blasted it while we were rehabbing some other plows then threw a new skin on it. It was just a blade only and I had no real use for so I actually made it up with the sole intent to sell it last year then along came Nemo. We sent it out to a site and it worked great throughout the whole storm. 

I'll throw it on CL this Fall and make a few bucks off of it.


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

After 20 years of running and building these types of plows, I have learned a few lessons. 
1) ridged sucks, can't keep plow on ground without down pressure
2) you need occilation 
3) nice to have down pressure for back dragging and scaping
4) no one offers a real good skid plow

attached are pics of the 1 I just finished. Debated if I should share, but here you go - the best design I have come up with. (waiting on my bucket of new chain, springs, and flags) A barn find 8611 completely redone converted to a small loader. serial # 372[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]


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## schmol (Nov 30, 2008)

WOW! That is a nice rig up Thumbs Up, I'm building one this year too. I was gonna go rigid for the ease of building it but that looks like it'll work really really well.


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## MIDTOWNPC (Feb 17, 2007)

I'd really like to know more about the 8611 an how you did the hydraulics. I have 3 of them sitting to go on skid steers.


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

you can pm me. Take the time to figure out a way not to go rigid, you will not like running it and it will eat cutting edges and asphalt.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

MIDTOWNPC;1641171 said:


> I'd really like to know more about the 8611 an how you did the hydraulics. I have 3 of them sitting to go on skid steers.


The same valve body on your Snowing will work for your 8611. Horst also sells a joystick for your skid steer to run it.


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

dave, can you do that for under $300?


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

I have a concern that the plow i bought is to heavy for the bobcat and when pushing snow the bobcat will just spin its tires. anyone experience this? The spec on the plow says it weighs almost 850lbs. Ouch..

Let me know your thoughts.... How are people keeping the tires from spinning when plowing.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

snowman55;1641211 said:


> dave, can you do that for under $300?


No but I guess you can since your bringing it up. I would just buy a Snowing and with the added productivity over the 8611 it will pay for the cost difference within the first year.


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## fireside (Mar 1, 2008)

You will have no problems with the weight of that blade. The weight also is the complete plow including truck mount. I have a blizzard 810ss on a cat 226 for 7 years. I also ran a 9' fisher on a 763 with no problems.

As for tire spin we have no problems but if it's ice you will. Just a tip get some forward motion before putting down the plow. If you get a full plow and feel the tires start to spin pick up on the plow reducing friction from the cutting edge. Just run the skidsteer you will learn pretty quick what and how it plows.


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

JD - man you really hate blizzards. I must not make near the money you do. A horst would be $8000 more than what I have into this plow no way I could make that up in a year. 

say I plow 150 hours a [email protected]$100/hr = $15,000 a year really closer to 100 hours a year x $100/hr= $10,000 year so a horst would be 50%to 80% faster? I can't see it.

Mid town said he has 3-8611,s already, this hydro set up would cost him $300 each. What does horst get for a valve body and control.

Horst does make really nice stuff but not everyone can dump $11,000 on a plow or in mid towns case $33,000

You said you just hang yours from a chain, it tripps and stacks better? horst skid plows appear to be a type of slip hitch or ridgid, so would you really just buy a new horst?


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## MatthewG (Jun 16, 2009)

Wow nice work on the 8611, really the ultimate setup for a skidsteer


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

My Plow Build. This is an 8'-6" Diamond plow thats been modified a few times.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Additional pictures of the build


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Got it done.


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

Still have to do the hydro's but looks like its goona work just fine


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## sokoservices (Aug 5, 2013)

This was a fun build. The only part i have to fix is i will be cutting the 2" receiver back off and putting the piece of ANGLE all the way across the weld plate since it was flexing a little bit at this point. I will then be adding gusset plates to help with the flexing. Other than that, it works nicely. 

I put the 2" receiver on there so i can move the trailers around in the yard. I will take the chain support out and put the traielr hitch in and then I can move what ever i want around.


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