# So whats a good ball joint to put in a 09 diesel thats tough enough to live



## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

So I got a little play in an upper ball joint, and a cup on a axle joint with a bit of play showing up, so its time to get in there and fix it before something comes apart Ive been reading through the cummins power forums and most people are against using MOOG, the Carli joint are supposed to be the best but at 1000$ I cant see that being an option , XRF give you a million mile warranty but that's only if you break one, they are supposed to be on their 4th generation and people swear by them so maybe they got it figured out , Mcquay-norris was supposed to have a pro line that is supposed to be really tough, but they are taken over by Raybestos and supposed to be offering the same part, and sealed power offers the exact same part numbers as Raybestos. And whats the easiest way to remove a axle joint cap , those 1.375 caps aren't the easiest , and pounding on them cant be good for the yoke ears either, Ive done them before where I had to zip cut out the cross and still had a tough time removing them , is there a pitman arm puller or something similar that could possibly work.


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

I have used a ball joint press. Clamp the ball joint press in a vise, then use some sockets or if the ball joint press kit has some adapters use them. Fyi you may need to hest up the u joint a little. And you may need an air hammer . Depending on how frozen it is.


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)




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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

We put a set of xrf in my brothers 08 dodge ctd and they wore pretty quick, like less than two years quick. I'm not sure what he replaced them with though. I put moog in mine about 18 months ago and haven't had a problem with them yet (knock on wood). Fwiw I used moog u joints on the front end too. The Carli stuff is nice but its a little too expensive for me


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Just use moog. Ball joint press for the u joints. Lately I torched the centers out to make it go faster


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

They think carli is a god on that fourm.
I use moog.
Never used a press....
Axels for just a littel more than u joints you can get
A rebuilt or a new one from a driveline shop.

I know on the drive shafts they use this one time nylon locker.
You will need to use heat befor you can press or drift the cups out.

The biggest trick is getting the hub loose.

Ps but then I get 80 a 100k or more out of ball joints and I hop curbs


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## jimmycrackcorn (Dec 28, 2013)

SnoFarmer;2073087 said:


> They think carli is a god on that fourm.
> I use moog.
> Never used a press....
> Axels for just a littel more than u joints you can get
> ...


Say, what do you mean a rebuilt or new for just a little more than u joints? I'm sure it's demographic dependant, but how much more?

I haven't heard anything about the Raybestos stuff, for some reason I've always got the vibe that they are a bottom of the barrel aftermarket manufacturer. I don't know why, just always thought that, maybe it's the name. Kinda sounds like something a China company would come up with. (Yes. I do judge things by the cover,lol)

I've always thought that the Dynatracs seemed like a good middle if the road option if you couldn't afford the uber hyped $800 SoCal option.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

You're wasting your money in my opinion. Anything is going to wear out. We had a carli joint snap in half on a Chevy truck. He got one for free and had to pay for the other one because it didn't break. 

It's a wear item. I used to do my dodge every two years. Just what it was lol. Hub is easy to get off with air hammer. 

Raybestos, like everyone else has several lines. Even the cheapest ones are decent


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Never had a bad problem with Moog. Just sometimes they can steer a little stiff when new. Check Autozone after you figure out the Moog number. Some of there heavier parts are Moog reboxed.
The best u-joint for my money, Spicer if you can find them.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

Lots of goos advice, buy the moog. Never buy from someone thats a reboxer like car quest and all the others. They dont make parts they box parts from the manufacture with the lowest bid. Moog is a manufacture and they put their name on the box.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

I put over 250,000 on my Dyna Trac ball joints and they were tight when I sold the truck. I have no idea what he means by buying a new or reman axle for a little more than the price of a joint. Unless he means the one he's smoking.


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## jimmycrackcorn (Dec 28, 2013)

Whiffyspark;2073129 said:


> You're wasting your money in my opinion. Anything is going to wear out. We had a carli joint snap in half on a Chevy truck. He got one for free and had to pay for the other one because it didn't break.


No kidding, that's a first that I've heard off. I know there is a specific install procedure involved with them & if they aren't done correctly it will result in aggressive wear. Anything is possible I suppose but like I mentioned before, I've never hear of catastrophic failure like that with the $800 SoCal option, they also stand behind they're stuff 110%, you sure it wasnt a Chevy with Dynatraks or something?


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## jimmycrackcorn (Dec 28, 2013)

jhenderson9196;2073201 said:


> I put over 250,000 on my Dyna Trac ball joints and they were tight when I sold the truck. I have no idea what he means by buying a new or reman axle for a little more than the price of a joint. Unless he means the one he's smoking.


Hahaha.. I know, right? I mean a complete axle rebuilt has gotta cost more than a set of u joints, no? Significantly more, no? I'm thinking at least 3 or $400.

There's a place down the road from me that specializes in driveshafts, maybe I'll look into this. I know come spring I'm prolly gunna want to do ball joints & u-joints.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

jimmycrackcorn;2073223 said:


> No kidding, that's a first that I've heard off. I know there is a specific install procedure involved with them & if they aren't done correctly it will result in aggressive wear. Anything is possible I suppose but like I mentioned before, I've never hear of catastrophic failure like that with the $800 SoCal option, they also stand behind they're stuff 110%, you sure it wasnt a Chevy with Dynatraks or something?


It was either one. 99% sure it was carli. It snapped clean off and upper control went into the tire. I'll see if I can find a picture maybe you can identify them.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

jhenderson9196;2073201 said:


> I put over 250,000 on my Dyna Trac ball joints and they were tight when I sold the truck. I have no idea what he means by buying a new or reman axle for a little more than the price of a joint. Unless he means the one he's smoking.


And there is ...........
I see your still all butt hurt, you'll get over it.

Ah Geee Wilber, what does he mean that for a littel more you can get one...?
I

Yea, by the time you find a decent u-joint and do the work ,for just a littel more you can get a axel that has been allready rebuilt , ballanced, a true center line, from a drive line shop. They take my core and I get a shaft with a warranty

So go a head dropthat cap to n the ground,
, ho did that needel bearing fall in the dirt, ho that bearing was what stoped the cap from going on, is that dirt in there, so you decide.
I don't like yanking out axels ,


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## jimmycrackcorn (Dec 28, 2013)

Huh? Did I miss something?

You lost me on that one.

That one that snapped had to have been some off brand or something, Carli doesn't make anything for Chevy. Carlis are stout, I'd expect other things to break before they do, especially in a shear scenario.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

SnoFarmer;2073230 said:


> And there is ...........
> I see your still all butt hurt, you'll get over it.
> 
> Ah Geee Wilber, what does he mean that for a littel more you can get one...?
> ...


I was only kidding about you smoking but it's obvious your reading comprehension has severely deteriorated. He said front axle joint, not front drive shaft joint. The only butt hurt around here seems to come from you.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

jhenderson9196;2073315 said:


> I was only kidding about you smoking but it's obvious your reading comprehension has severely deteriorated. He said front axle joint, not front drive shaft joint. The only butt hurt around here seems to come from you.


He's saying replace the axle shaft. Not have the whole axle rebuild


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

jimmycrackcorn;2073240 said:


> Huh? Did I miss something?
> 
> You lost me on that one.
> 
> That one that snapped had to have been some off brand or something, Carli doesn't make anything for Chevy. Carlis are stout, I'd expect other things to break before they do, especially in a shear scenario.


I texted my old boss.. It was congito uniball. My fault on that


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## Maleko (Sep 20, 2004)

Carli. Bullet proof But very expensive.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

Whiffyspark;2073354 said:


> He's saying replace the axle shaft. Not have the whole axle rebuild


Well then maybe you can tell us all how you balance an axle shaft. Or adjust the centerline. There's no such thing as a reman axle shaft. You buy them new by the piece. That would be 3 pieces if you're counting. Inner shaft, u joint, and outer shaft.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Have you ever been to a shop that only does drive line work.
They can build you a new shaft.
That can have rebuild shafts on the shelf.
Not only can they, they do.

Or I supose you could waite for them to rebuild it.

You can get the cups in at different depths and still have the chips on this will cause binding and the center line will be off. 
Once a cup is in a littel to far it needs to be moved back out.
This will require you to disassemble and reassemble it.
A true center line is very important in rotating assembly and so is its balance.
A drive line shop has lathe with all sorts of jigs they spin it up just like they do for a drive shaft.

The "shop" I go to can build you whatever you need. 
So you can go to a "shop" and for just a littel more that the cost of a quality u-joint you can get a shaft ready to go. 
Or you can mess with it yourself .


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

SnoFarmer;2073614 said:


> Have you ever been to a shop that only does drive line work.
> They can build you a new shaft.
> That can have rebuild shafts on the shelf.
> Not only can they, they do.
> ...


Everyone is just so used to buying everything either off the internet or from a nation wide store like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Car Quest that they dont realize there are actually still craftsman out there that do work like this.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

Moog Ball Joints - they had a problem years ago...........I have 5 years on a Ram 1500 with a BOSS V on it. Still Good.
Spicer U-Joints - The HD ones without zercs. They have the best seals. 

For U-Joints I just use a vice. Take out the clips smack them with a dead blow hammer and the caps will pop out. No cutting, torching or grinding. You bridge a vise with the u-joint and hit the yoke. The yoke end you hit, the cap will pop up as you drive the rest down.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

SnoFarmer;2073614 said:


> Have you ever been to a shop that only does drive line work.
> They can build you a new shaft.
> That can have rebuild shafts on the shelf.
> Not only can they, they do.
> ...


Spicer 5-760X U-Joint $29
I have to take the axle out then drive to a "drive line shop" pay them to put the u-joint in. WHY? it is not that hard. I would not want to waste time to drive there. I would have it done before I got 1/2 way there. U-Joints are not rocket science.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

maxwellp;2073642 said:


> Moog Ball Joints - they had a problem years ago...........I have 5 years on a Ram 1500 with a BOSS V on it. Still Good.
> Spicer U-Joints - The HD ones without zercs. They have the best seals.
> 
> For U-Joints I just use a vice. Take out the clips smack them with a dead blow hammer and the caps with pop out. No cutting, torching or grinding. You bridge a vise with the u-joint and hit the yoke. The yoke end you hit the cap will pop up as you drive the rest down.


I've done the drift it into a socket that is just a littel bigger than the cup
Broken vices pressing out axel joints.
Can you go primitive and get the job done, you might even get it right.
Or you could bend a yoke, mess up a new u-joint.
Spend hrs doing so or.....

I've never done a 1500 but I have done a few 2500's and 3500's,,

Now Back to getting the unit bearing out a air hammer can work.
Or backing out the blots, then slide a socked over the bolt rotate it untill in lines up with the stop on the axel and have someone Fire up the truck and turn the wheel .
It will act like a press, rotate it to the next bolt repete...
Turn out the bolts and repeat and it will pop right out.

Slather with anti -seize when resembling it.



LapeerLandscape;2073620 said:


> Everyone is just so used to buying everything either off the internet or from a nation wide store like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Car Quest that they don't realize there are actually still craftsman out there that do work like this.


Could be...
Thumbs Up


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

There is no need to use a Vice as a press. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I have never messed up a new u-joint or bent a yoke doing it this way. The sockets and using a vice as a press is the hard way. Take out the clips smack them with a dead blow hammer and the caps will pop out. No cutting, torching or grinding. You bridge a vise with the u-joint and hit the yoke. The yoke end you hit, the cap will pop up as you drive the rest down. 1500 - 2500 - 3500 just gets larger - done the same way.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

maxwellp;2073642 said:


> Moog Ball Joints - they had a problem years ago...........I have 5 years on a Ram 1500 with a BOSS V on it. Still Good.
> Spicer U-Joints - The HD ones without zercs. They have the best seals.
> 
> For U-Joints I just use a vice. Take out the clips smack them with a dead blow hammer and the caps with pop out. No cutting, torching or grinding. You bridge a vise with the u-joint and hit the yoke. The yoke end you hit the cap will pop up as you drive the rest down.


Well I had to do the U joint right away before I tackled the ball joints, cause it did have a little play in it and I wasn't sure how long it would go , and considering I was plowing with it I wasn't going to chance it spitting out of there and leaving me on a hook to fix it, but when I did change out the u joint , it was all rusted in there so bad I had a hard time even getting the clips out of them. 
With all the rust on the inner side of the caps I opted to cut the cross out of the joint with a zip disk and then push the caps inward as there was very little exposed on the top side to collect rust. 
I have the ball joint press but was afraid of spreading an ear on the yoke, when I put my new moog joint back in it seems to has a cap that was pretty easy to push back in and im afraid of it spitting a cap , priced out a new axle/joint/outer axle assembly and it was like 563$ Canadian bucks with my discount its still 420$ 
I opted out to buy the Raybestos pro line brand , but of course they have to ordered in , they are supposed to be a repackaged spicer , so they cant be all that bad
It would be nice to find a pitman arm puller that would fit right on the yoke ear and push the caps inward when they get as rusted up as that one was , as those big caps sure rust in there tight,


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

> I've done the drift it into a socket that is just a littel bigger than the cup
> Broken vices pressing out axel joints.
> Can you go primitive and get the job done, you might even get it right.
> Or you could bend a yoke, mess up a new u-joint.
> Spend hrs doing so or.....


 and that what im afraid of too, half ton caps maybe but a rusted up 1 3/8 cap ia another thing


> Now Back to getting the unit bearing out a air hammer can work.
> Or backing out the blots, then slide a socked over the bolt rotate it untill in lines up with the stop on the axel and have someone Fire up the truck and turn the wheel .
> It will act like a press, rotate it to the next bolt repete...
> Turn out the bolts and repeat and it will pop right out.


 didn't even have to start it that works really good


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

SnoFarmer;2073614 said:


> Have you ever been to a shop that only does drive line work.
> They can build you a new shaft.
> That can have rebuild shafts on the shelf.
> Not only can they, they do.
> ...


There's no such thing as a reman axle shaft. Drive shaft yes. I've got $100 that says your shop doesn't have a reman axle shaft on the shelf. Pick someone you trust on the forum to hold the cash while I call "Your Shop" Put up or shut up. While you're at it explain to me how you can put one joint cap in further than the other and get the locks in, inside or outside. A modern joint has less than .010 total clearance. Any fool ( even you) knows enough to rap shaft just under the ears on any shaft after assembly to center the joint properly.


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## johnnywaz (Oct 16, 2015)

jhenderson9196;2073706 said:


> There's no such thing as a reman axle shaft. Drive shaft yes. I've got $100 that says your shop doesn't have a reman axle shaft on the shelf. Pick someone you trust on the forum to hold the cash while I call "Your Shop" Put up or shut up. While you're at it explain to me how you can put one joint cap in further than the other and get the locks in, inside or outside. A modern joint has less than .010 total clearance. Any fool ( even you) knows enough to rap shaft just under the ears on any shaft after assembly to center the joint properly.


I don't know about the remanufactured parts but DTS, Drive Train Specialist can high speed balance driveshafts and axle shafts. I have PERSONALLY had it done on a drag racing vehicle. That being said its probably overkill on a daily driver's 4x4 front axle shaft as the C-clips do provide fairly tight tolerance. When you take a U-joint out on a front axle you are supposed to keep everything indexed the same way putting it back together to minimize out of balance.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

jhenderson9196;2073706 said:


> There's no such thing as a reman axle shaft. Drive shaft yes. I've got $100 that says your shop doesn't have a reman axle shaft on the shelf. Pick someone you trust on the forum to hold the cash while I call "Your Shop" Put up or shut up. While you're at it explain to me how you can put one joint cap in further than the other and get the locks in, inside or outside. A modern joint has less than .010 total clearance. Any fool ( even you) knows enough to rap shaft just under the ears on any shaft after assembly to center the joint properly.


http://www.drivelinespecialists.net/contactus509.jsp

ask for RON he's the owner.
and remember Big Guy, i said he can rebuild yours while you wait...
if he doesn't have one on the shelf.
then i'll pm ya a mailing address.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Get some bearing retainer grade Lok tite. Coat both areas with it when you put the caps in. Spicer joints will have a S on them.
And they ain't BIG u-joints. Untill you have done 1810 three section shafts, you haven't done big joints.


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## OneBadDodge06 (Sep 22, 2004)

Carli ball joints......


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Randall Ave;2073784 said:


> Get some bearing retainer grade Lok tite. Coat both areas with it when you put the caps in. Spicer joints will have a S on them.
> And they ain't BIG u-joints. Untill you have done 1810 three section shafts, you haven't done big joints.


 Done them too , a good reason to let somebody with a proper ujoint press take them on , never thought about the lock tite, was thinking of just tack welding the cap when I take it apart for the ball joints


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

SnoFarmer;2073763 said:


> http://www.drivelinespecialists.net/contactus509.jsp
> 
> ask for RON he's the owner.
> and remember Big Guy, i said he can rebuild yours while you wait...
> ...


1:36 pm. I spoke with Ron at Driveline specialists 5 minutes ago. I consider it a good sign when the owner answers the phone. Seems like he knows his business. He told me there is no such thing as a reman axle for any open knuckle front axle.n As if I didn't know. Only new parts where needed for repair. He can't even get an inner half for an 09 and up. Dealer only. I asked for that because nobody would ask for a reman axle assembly if all they needed was a u joint. If it was the earlier design he could order one. He doesn't have one in stock. The price for the left inner shaft alone ( that's the shorter one, read less expensive) is $175. I'm Compare that to $40-50 for a high quality joint. Enough said? P.M. Me for a mailing address for the check. Leave the payee line open and I'll forward it to a seeing eye dog foundation my wife donates to. You'll get conformation and a thank you letter for your tax deduction. Jeff.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

jhenderson9196;2074182 said:


> 1:36 pm. I spoke with Ron at Driveline specialists 5 minutes ago. There is no such thing as a reman axle for any open knuckle front axle. Only new parts where needed for repair. He can't even get an inner half for an 09 and up. Dealer only. If it was the earlier design he could order one. He doesn't have one in stock. The price for the left inner shaft alone ( that's the shorter one, read less expensive) is $175. Compare that to $40-50 for a high quality joint. Enough said? P.M. Me for a mailing address for the check. Leave the payee line open and I'll forward it to a seeing eye dog foundation my wife donates to. You'll get conformation and a thank you letter for your tax deduction. Jeff.


Funny how you can make me take your bet.
Iosted the link to stop your foot pounding.

So call Ron back and ask.
How much to put a joint into my axel shaft,
ether side, any year.

All I've got from him is the short side for my 01.
I call him before I leave home, I hand him my shaft.
Last time he handed me a shaft and took mine.
He then puts in the u- joint into the axel.
And I don,t pay anything close to 175.

So ask the proper question
Then we'll discuss payment at markO's spring get together


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I thought we was going to Grandviews!


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

SnoFarmer;2074191 said:


> Funny how you can make me take your bet.
> Iosted the link to stop your foot pounding.
> 
> So call Ron back and ask.
> ...


 The op said an 09 so what you bought anything fo is a mute point. Go back and read your post#6. You clearly stated he could buy a reman axle for little more than th price of a joint. That's what I called you on. You insisted on continuing your position. I gave you the chance to back off but you continued. Then you called me on my offer and gave me the link. You could have quit anytime before that, but noooo. You doubled down. Now we'll see what kind of man you are.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

SnoFarmer;2073087 said:


> They think carli is a god on that fourm.
> I use moog.
> Never used a press....
> Axels for just a littel more than u joints you can get
> ...





jhenderson9196;2074371 said:


> The op said an 09 so what you bought anything fo is a mute point. Go back and read your post#6. You clearly stated he could buy a reman axle for little more than th price of a joint. That's what I called you on. You insisted on continuing your position. I gave you the chance to back off but you continued. Then you called me on my offer and gave me the link. You could have quit anytime before that, but noooo. You doubled down. Now we'll see what kind of man you are.


what a said is. it's right there.
"A rebuilt or a new one from a driveling shop."
to me rebuilt, means i give him my shaft and he rebuilds it ie installs a new u-joint...hands it back. 
and the "new" one we all know is a bit more.

that is what it is all about....

jeesues j chest, its been how many days/

and what is the cost of having Ron install a u-joint into your shaft, I dont care what year it is...

and if i didn't put the link. you would be well just as you are.

ps why would i pm you? so you can pm me?
just pm me... 
well, well hold off until you make the call to ron.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

SnoFarmer;2073230 said:


> And there is ...........
> I see your still all butt hurt, you'll get over it.
> 
> Ah Geee Wilber, what does he mean that for a littel more you can get one...?
> ...


I can get an axle ( proper spelling) that has already been rebuilt. They take my core and I get a warranty. That about says it all doesn't it? You ran your mouth and got caught. But by all means, keep trying to weasel out of. It. I want everyone here to get to know the real you. By the way, before you call Ron, double or nothing?


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## adksnowo (Dec 14, 2005)

The "better" Moog, NAPA and Raybestos are all lifetime warranted. I've had good luck with all three, all are likely better than the OEM ball joints they replaced. I can't see spending $1000 for the other Fanboi ball joints. For u-joints I always use Moog greaseable super strength u-joints. The Moog units are lifetime warranted, strong and easy to lube as they use a needle grease fitting on the cap.

BTW I previously used my shop press for u-joints but went to this instead, works well:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=549


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

The problem is the labor is far more than the cost of the ball joint. I put almost 400,000 miles on my 04. At the wear rate of most ball joints that would have been at least 3 sets. The labor cost would far exceed th most expensive joints on the market.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

jhenderson9196;2075379 said:


> The problem is the labor is far more than the cost of the ball joint. I put almost 400,000 miles on my 04. At the wear rate of most ball joints that would have been at least 3 sets. The labor cost would far exceed th most expensive joints on the market.


I wish I could get that kind of mileage out of ball joints. Every two years I have to replace mine


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Dodge front ends aren't bad after the first time. Getting the hubs out was the worst part. I live in NC and those damn things fought me the whole way. I had to make a home made pull to get them off. I welded it right to the wheel studs since I was replacing everything. Tighten and wack it with a BFH. Over and and over until it popped. Use a liberal amount of anti-seize when putting everything back together.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

Banksy;2075468 said:


> Dodge front ends aren't bad after the first time. Getting the hubs out was the worst part. I live in NC and those damn things fought me the whole way. I had to make a home made pull to get them off. I welded it right to the wheel studs since I was replacing everything. Tighten and wack it with a BFH. Over and and over until it popped. Use a liberal amount of anti-seize when putting everything back together.


Push on the bolt heads from the back with a rod using the power steering. They will come out easier.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

maxwellp;2075475 said:


> Push on the bolt heads from the back with a rod using the power steering. They will come out easier.


I tried that first for a good while! No go! That pull was bowed when I was done with it. That's 1/4" square tubing.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

adksnowo;2075151 said:


> The "better" Moog, NAPA and Raybestos are all lifetime warranted. I've had good luck with all three, all are likely better than the OEM ball joints they replaced. I can't see spending $1000 for the other Fanboi ball joints. For u-joints I always use Moog greaseable super strength u-joints. The Moog units are lifetime warranted, strong and easy to lube as they use a needle grease fitting on the cap.
> 
> Whats the part number of those super strength, I use the moog 464 but they are center greased
> 
> ...


 I just ordered one of those , looks like an awesome idea, was going to get a tiger tool u joint press but it looks like it would be more brutal than the ball joint press,


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Banksy;2075468 said:


> Dodge front ends aren't bad after the first time. Getting the hubs out was the worst part. I live in NC and those damn things fought me the whole way. I had to make a home made pull to get them off. I welded it right to the wheel studs since I was replacing everything. Tighten and wack it with a BFH. Over and and over until it popped. Use a liberal amount of anti-seize when putting everything back together.


I changed a u joint on my neighbors 08, he didn't find out awhile after he had bought it that it had been in an accident, but when I took the hub assembly off, it pretty much fell off as soon as I took the bolts out of it , it was zero friction fit when it went back in, was wondering if maybe it had the wrong year of hub installed back on it, if that is possible.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

jhenderson9196;2074810 said:


> I can get an axle ( proper spelling) that has already been rebuilt. They take my core and I get a warranty. That about says it all doesn't it? You ran your mouth and got caught. But by all means, keep trying to weasel out of. It. I want everyone here to get to know the real you. By the way, before you call Ron, double or nothing?


You want the real me,
Well here it is buckaroo.
I don't get backdoored into a bet, not by you not by any one.

You are trying to hold me to exact verbiage when we all know what I meant.
So in that light,
Find the verbiage that sayes,
Bet on, I'll take that bet, or anything close.
Posting a link is not acceptance of your bet.
I know that in your pea size brain it is.

If you had stoped whining, and making your snide comments
This "man." Miight have Ben willing to play along.
But you want exact verbiage,
Then so do I...

Not this well you posted a link so that means you accepted my terms
Playground crap.
But exact verbiage.


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## adksnowo (Dec 14, 2005)

cl733

The Moog super strength u-joints are the same p/n, just ask for the "super strength" u-joint. It will be different from the "premium" in that it is greased through the cap rather than center cross. Much easier to lube and supposedly makes it stronger as there are less grease channels in the center trunnion of the joint.

http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/u-joint/moog-super-strength-u-joint/704984_461303_4222_5247/


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

cl733;2075514 said:


> I changed a u joint on my neighbors 08, he didn't find out awhile after he had bought it that it had been in an accident, but when I took the hub assembly off, it pretty much fell off as soon as I took the bolts out of it , it was zero friction fit when it went back in, was wondering if maybe it had the wrong year of hub installed back on it, if that is possible.


Dodge used Dana axles up to 2002 (I'm pretty sure) and then in 2003 changed over AAM. I don't know if the part numbers changed but it should not have been a frictionless fit unless somebody grounded out the inside of the knuckle or something.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Banksy;2075554 said:


> Dodge used Dana axles up to 2002 (I'm pretty sure) and then in 2003 changed over AAM. I don't know if the part numbers changed but it should not have been a frictionless fit unless somebody grounded out the inside of the knuckle or something.


I know the 09 take a different hub assembly, not sure what the difference actually is, but its a different part number. I was looking to do a free wheel hub change over and the 08 is different from the 09 too, maybe they changed the housing a bit, doubt it, but they do take different parts within the same era


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

SnoFarmer;2073763 said:


> http://www.drivelinespecialists.net/contactus509.jsp
> 
> ask for RON he's the owner.
> and remember Big Guy, i said he can rebuild yours while you wait...
> ...


 "I'll pm ya my mailing address " " reman axle right off the shelf". Pretty plain language. Nothing nit picky holding someone to their word. I live on a two way street. You were willing to take my money, I expect yours. Keep weaseling, it's great to watch you squirm.


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## adksnowo (Dec 14, 2005)

Anyone try these for Dodge hubs?

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=511

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38210-Hub-Remover-Dodge/dp/B00396DMMA


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

I'm sure it works better than an air hammer on the bolts alone but I've done enough of them to know an air hammer won't budge a truely frozen hub. It takes the power steering method along with a 5lb hammer to shock the hub at the same time.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

adksnowo;2076785 said:


> Anyone try these for Dodge hubs?
> 
> http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=511
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38210-Hub-Remover-Dodge/dp/B00396DMMA


Waste of time. Even the power steering method doesn't work always.

I use an air hammer and chisel. Go in between the hub and face. Works every time. If it doesn't work it up and down to get it to move and then put it in between


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

We recently had a hard time. We heated it hammerd it with a 20 lbs sludge hammer and it still was frozen in the hub. We took the ball joint out, then removed the entire assembly put it in a 20 ton press. We still had to use heat. That had to be the hardest one ive ever seen


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

You had to heat the spindle to remove the bearing hub assembly?


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Randall Ave;2077596 said:


> You had to heat the spindle to remove the bearing hub assembly?


Yes it was frozen to the spindle, the axel was frozen to the bearing .we didn't want to ruin the axel or the spindle. It was one of the worst one we've seen


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

rjigto4oje;2077618 said:


> Yes it was frozen to the spindle, the axel was frozen to the bearing .we didn't want to ruin the axel or the spindle. It was one of the worst one we've seen


Imagine life if they put 25 cents worth of anti seize on the wheel bearing assembly before bolting it to the knuckle.


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## nymustang50 (Dec 15, 2007)

Not sure if anyone said this. But Dynatrac Heavy-Duty BallJoints. I would Highly recommend them. I have them on my truck for the last 40k miles no issues. They are rebuildable while installed on the truck to. And I know when I first bought mine they claimed they had them on trucks with 100k miles on them and still never sold a rebuild kit for them.


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## OneBadDodge06 (Sep 22, 2004)

nymustang50;2106384 said:


> Not sure if anyone said this. But Dynatrac Heavy-Duty BallJoints. I would Highly recommend them. I have them on my truck for the last 40k miles no issues. They are rebuildable while installed on the truck to. And I know when I first bought mine they claimed they had them on trucks with 100k miles on them and still never sold a rebuild kit for them.


After doing some research I plan on going with Dynatrac's. Cheaper than Carli's but it sounds like their quality control is tight.

Did you try the extension behind the hub bolts power steering method to free the hub from the knuckle?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

OneBadDodge06;2106399 said:


> After doing some research I plan on going with Dynatrac's. Cheaper than Carli's but it sounds like their quality control is tight.
> 
> Did you try the extension behind the hub bolts power steering method to free the hub from the knuckle?


Trhey make spacers for that. I bent an extension in half


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## GLS (Nov 22, 2001)

I've been through 3 sets of ball joints on my '08 in less than 66,000 miles.

Replaced factory bj's at 30k with dynatrac (carli was out of stock at the time).

The dynatracs were looser than the factory ones were at 60k.

Dynatracs can be rebuilt, but is still labor intensive (have to pull the wheel hub) and not cheap (I think at least $200).

We opted to pitch the dynatracs and go with carli. Also put carli bj's into our '12.

Just my personal experience, but I would avoid the dynatrac.


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## SIXINAROW1 (Feb 4, 2014)

I have an 05 Ram 5.9 and put Carli ball joints on it in 2014. Great ball joints. Plowed only one lot last year then sold the plow. Good ball joints if you can afford them. Just got a replacement one in the mail because it separated
Try emfendlinks.com
Or something like that
Dodge trucks are hard on front end hardware so possibly buying the best upfront helps in the long run


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

I installed Carli's on both of my Dodge Trucks, I did this after replacing a replacement set with less than 20k miles. I found they were indestructible, and I did plow with both of the trucks. 




Here is a how to video that I used , it helped


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