# OBS Ford Flatbed Dump Project



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

So a few years ago, I blew a tire on my 96 and the tread separated and slapped the bedside really hard. The box was rusty already so I never fixed it, well 2 months ago the opportunity to buy this flatbed came up, it wasnt what I wanted, but the price was right, so I made it how I wanted it.

Heres where I started with the box off:


















I removed my leaky front tank so I would have more room, to delete the tank, I cut the ends off the sending unit, welded them shut and plugged them back into the lines incase I ever want to put one back in.










Then I got to work fabbing up some frame work for the scissor hoist, I am using a hoist from an old barge box dump wagon because we had two sitting around with cylinders, so the price was right.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

The flatbed I got had c-channel that was open to the sides, this was worthless to me, so I made up some of these to add every 12" so I could make bolt on sides with stake pockets and a 2" rub rail for much more function.


















I bought a bunch of LEDs for it and laid them out how I wanted them on the rear and got to work making the new tail light panel


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

I ran some 3" channel parallel with the frame rails and made up some hinges out of some plate and added grease zerks


















Here is how the hinges will mount to the truck


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

After lots of sandblasting I got to spraying it with POR-15


















Then I had my buddy who works at a bodyshop come spray some single stage urethane on it


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

Then it came time for wiring and lights










Here are the side rails I made with the clearance lights installed



















I also Added some D-rings in the front corner


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

Here is the frame work and scissor before I POR'd the frame on the truck


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

Hey would ya look at that


































It is pretty much done now, I need to order a 12v pump and do a little wiring for the rotating beacon, I also did a little trimming on the bumper shell for my DMI bumper so it could go back on, I had to mount the whole hitch under the truck a little more because otherwise I would be dumping right on top of the bumper. So a little trimming and it all went back on, I will have to get pics of that yet.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

If you guys have good eyes you will notice the shop go from dark and dirty to bright and less dirty, we did some spring cleaning and added some new t-8 highbay light fixtures about 2/3 of the way through this project.

We moved all the sh** in front of the semi and put up some pallet racking for better organization.










As you can see in this pic that I posted before its looking a little better


----------



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Wow! Fantastic work!


----------



## scott3430 (Dec 28, 2010)

Great work! How do you like the POR 15 vs using Fluid Film on the underbody of the truck? Thx.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

scott3430;1618540 said:


> Great work! How do you like the POR 15 vs using Fluid Film on the underbody of the truck? Thx.


Fluid film has its places, but covering rust with fluid film is not a solution, POR is permanent and leaves a good finish, where fluid film is slimy and can be wiped away.

Each has their places but for an application like this POR wins every time


----------



## plowingkid35 (Nov 16, 2010)

that looks awesome, and scott3430 POR 15 is awesome we redid my buddies truck and did everything with POR 15. It holds up great and has a very nice look to it.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

Thanks guys, Im pretty happy with how it turned out.



plowingkid35;1618558 said:


> that looks awesome, and scott3430 POR 15 is awesome we redid my buddies truck and did everything with POR 15. It holds up great and has a very nice look to it.


Yeah I have used POR on a number of different things from dana 60s to plow mounts, to flatbeds, and truck frames and have great results. Its good stuff.


----------



## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Looks good. If I was to build another one I would build my own scissor and mount. The pierce one I got was junk and had to re-do it anyway. Also, if I ever do make another one it will be out of aluminum and all TIG welded.
T.J.


----------



## Morrissey snow removal (Sep 30, 2006)

nice looking truck


----------



## havenlax18 (Dec 16, 2010)

Leaf springs didn't look to strong in the pictures. They are supposed to be touching the frame mount (just the top spring) other then that looks great. I'm guessing its you 96 f150?


----------



## SNOWLORD (Aug 10, 2007)

Looks good! One question on your hinge point at the back of the truck wouldnt it have been easier and stronger to box the inside of each frame rail and run your pin through it, leaving 3or4 inches sticking out past the outside of the frame for your arms to come down and pivot on. I just threw together a small truck and I found that easy and strong. I will try and get some pics. It is always interesting to see how others do things. Again I think it all looks good. just curious.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

TJS;1618611 said:


> Looks good. If I was to build another one I would build my own scissor and mount. The pierce one I got was junk and had to re-do it anyway. Also, if I ever do make another one it will be out of aluminum and all TIG welded.
> T.J.


Thanks, Aluminum would be sweet... While I can do the basics with TIG, I'm not great at it. It would be nice to build one from scratch like you did, but my pockets wouldn't appreciate that... I only had to give $100 for the bed, granted It was not what I wanted, but I am more then happy with how it turned out when I was done. I had to buy about $300 worth of steel and had the rest; I can only imagine how much it would cost to buy everything. We had two of these hoists sitting around so I figured why buy one... I remembered your build thread and your disappointment with the quality of the scissor



Morrissey snow removal;1618618 said:


> nice looking truck


Thanks!



havenlax18;1618671 said:


> Leaf springs didn't look to strong in the pictures. They are supposed to be touching the frame mount (just the top spring) other then that looks great. I'm guessing its you 96 f150?


Those are just overload springs, when the truck squats down, the contact the overload pads, the 3 Fords I have owned, and every Ford I have been around have been like this, maybe a C&C or 2wd Dually the overloads would be closer to touching the pads... When loaded, they touch, but not much... This truck squats a little, but it sure doesnt look like a dodge... lol



SNOWLORD;1618686 said:


> Looks good! One question on your hinge point at the back of the truck wouldnt it have been easier and stronger to box the inside of each frame rail and run your pin through it, leaving 3or4 inches sticking out past the outside of the frame for your arms to come down and pivot on. I just threw together a small truck and I found that easy and strong. I will try and get some pics. It is always interesting to see how others do things. Again I think it all looks good. just curious.


I made up this setup because everything else I made used existing factory Ford holes, I didn't drill any in the frame so If something happened to this truck everything can go right on another OBS Ford pickup... I could have done some fab work directly to the frame, but I wanted to keep it all bolt on. I still would have wanted something like this on the other side of the flatbed hinge to make it a true double shear hinge... While your design still goes through 3 points, it is still technically single shear.

I hope I never have to switch because something happened to the truck, but sh** does happen... I want to keep this truck forever, It was my first vehicle, I bought it when it was 15, I'm 21 now. I have done a ton of work to this truck, needs a little body work on the cab, but otherwise its all good to go now...


----------



## L.I.Mike (Dec 28, 2002)

Nice Job, Looks good.


----------



## Polarismalibu (Sep 20, 2012)

That turned out extremely nice!!


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

havenlax18;1618671 I'm guessing its you 96 f150?[/QUOTE said:


> Oh and this was an F150, its far from a 150 now... The half ton stuff went away about 4 years ago... 350 springs all around, leaf spring front solid axle, full floater 10.25 rear. This was a HD half ton, it had 3" rear springs, more rear springs then some F250's, overloads, quad front shocks, big trans cooler, tow package, so that made it easier swapping the 3/4 and 1 ton stuff. I hate the TTB front axle with a passion, both my trucks now are swapped for solids, even put a 60 in my old IDI.


----------



## joshg (Nov 12, 2009)

Nice project.


----------



## linckeil (Sep 18, 2007)

thanks for the pics. i plan to do this project in the spring on my 1996 F350. i've had the flatbed and the hoist for several years - i hope this spring i'll have the time to do it. your pics encourage me to get moving - that and how my back feels everytime i need to unload gravel, firewood, dirt, mulch, whatever....... i've thought about removing the front fuel tank too, but i need the capacity. it sure does free up some space though....

i'll update this thread once i get underway...

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=91106


----------



## RJ lindblom (Sep 21, 2006)

That is a great setup. Lots of life left in it.


----------



## dieselboy01 (Jan 18, 2011)

Nice job on the flat bed that looks great, and the OBS Ford looks really clean!!


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

linckeil;1619189 said:


> thanks for the pics. i plan to do this project in the spring on my 1996 F350. i've had the flatbed and the hoist for several years - i hope this spring i'll have the time to do it. your pics encourage me to get moving - that and how my back feels everytime i need to unload gravel, firewood, dirt, mulch, whatever....... i've thought about removing the front fuel tank too, but i need the capacity. it sure does free up some space though....
> 
> i'll update this thread once i get underway...
> 
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=91106


Yeah really this project went pretty quick, I went from just the idea of a regular flatbed to a complete dumping flatbed that was done right how I wanted it in less then 2 months.

I justified removing the front tank because it was rotted on the top and the pump crapped out awhile back, plus I dont go to far with this truck anyway. I drive my powerstroke if i need to go any long distance.

Only thing I have left is to get a pump,

I have a friend with an older fisher underhood electric over hydraulic pump, would this work with my single acting cylinder? If I am thinking correctly, if my single hose was connected to one port, it would lift, but the question is if when you go down, if its on the lift solonoid, it would gravity back down correct?


----------



## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

It generally won't make enough pressure to lift any load. It would probably lift the bed. They make maybe 1200psi when really good.


----------



## linckeil (Sep 18, 2007)

Drew2010;1619245 said:


> Yeah really this project went pretty quick, I went from just the idea of a regular flatbed to a complete dumping flatbed that was done right how I wanted it in less then 2 months.
> 
> I justified removing the front tank because it was rotted on the top and the pump crapped out awhile back, plus I dont go to far with this truck anyway. I drive my powerstroke if i need to go any long distance.
> 
> ...


i've heard that you can buy a replacement tank from a 92-96 full size bronco. the broncos only had only one tank and it was in the rear, but it was a greater capacity than what the trucks had for a rear tank. it fits right in and hooks up just the same. only thing is you will no longer be able to mount a spare tire under the rear tank (broncos has their spare inside the truck for this reason). you'd need a bronco sending unit and fuel pump too in order to reach into the deeper tank. the one bronco rear tank won't give you the capacity of stock dual truck tanks, but will certainly be more than the one stock truck rear tank.

as for pumps, get one designed for lifting a bed. as mentioned, a plow pump will likely not generate enough pressure. also plow cylinders are a lot smaller than a dump piston, so there will likely be an issue with fluid volume as well.


----------



## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

As for the specs on the pump. I will check my pump that came with my kit. It is a barnes pump. As far as the pressure is concerned regarding your pump you want to use: remember that is 1200 pounds per square inch in the cylinder. Pressure is force so 1200 psi should work. Also, volume is the speed and has nothing to do with force. Again, it may be a little slow or it may be just right. One thing you will need is a gravity down valve to slow the bed when coming down. I had to get one for mine because the headache rack and ¼” bulkhead and bed itself are heavy. The valve is mounted inline and is one way.. They have a knob on them to adjust the speed. You put this in line with your hose. I got mine at surpluscenter.com.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

linckeil;1619575 said:


> i've heard that you can buy a replacement tank from a 92-96 full size bronco. the broncos only had only one tank and it was in the rear, but it was a greater capacity than what the trucks had for a rear tank. it fits right in and hooks up just the same. only thing is you will no longer be able to mount a spare tire under the rear tank (broncos has their spare inside the truck for this reason). you'd need a bronco sending unit and fuel pump too in order to reach into the deeper tank. the one bronco rear tank won't give you the capacity of stock dual truck tanks, but will certainly be more than the one stock truck rear tank..


I have thought about the bronco tank, but I dont think it would clear my DMI spring bumper.



TJS;1619611 said:


> As for the specs on the pump. I will check my pump that came with my kit. It is a barnes pump. As far as the pressure is concerned regarding your pump you want to use: remember that is 1200 pounds per square inch in the cylinder. Pressure is force so 1200 psi should work. Also, volume is the speed and has nothing to do with force. Again, it may be a little slow or it may be just right. One thing you will need is a gravity down valve to slow the bed when coming down. I had to get one for mine because the headache rack and ¼" bulkhead and bed itself are heavy. The valve is mounted inline and is one way.. They have a knob on them to adjust the speed. You put this in line with your hose. I got mine at surpluscenter.com.


I will have to experiment with the pump, I was told I could pretty much just have it so it will be worth a shot.


----------



## THEGOLDPRO (Jun 18, 2006)

Looks great man.


----------



## Dennis 57 (Mar 8, 2013)

Very nice job, looks great. I use por-15 on all my trucks.


----------



## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Documents for the pump state 2250 psi. I never did validate it with a gauge though.


----------



## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

If you had a really big cylinder then in theory you could lift 100 tons with 1200 psi. With a cylinder you have used you will be lucky to lift a ton. So it will lift the bed you will feel great, go put a load on and be stuck. I know this from experience. You need something that puts out 2000+psi that much makes a big difference.


----------



## linckeil (Sep 18, 2007)

as a point of reference, i checked the specs on my pump. it was originally used on a 9 foot rugby mason dump and is more pump that i will need for my 8 foot flatbed. it is power up and power down.

max psi up - 3200
max psi down - 1500
gallons per minute - 6


----------



## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

To the OP. You can try turning up the pressure on your pump. There should be a releif valve adjustment. If that does not work then you have to get a dedicated dump pump set up.
T.J.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

When I get the plow pump from my buddy, I will get a gauge on it and see, if I cant get it to put out atleast 2000 PSI, I think I will have to order a pump.


----------



## 03fordboss (Sep 30, 2011)

Nice work. What motor is in that f150 badged f350??


----------



## thelettuceman (Nov 23, 2010)

Very nice build. Thanx for the pictures and documenting all of that.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

03fordboss;1620381 said:


> Nice work. What motor is in that f150 badged f350??


Its the 351w (5.8L). I used to pull all sorts of stuff with this truck before I bought my diesel... from boats to tandem dually goosenecks with two 2-cylinder John Deeres, Never really had anything to complain about besides mileage. 8-10 loaded, 8-10 empty... It may be a small block, but the 351 will run circles around any of the 302 trucks I have driven.

I have some 250 HD badges and F350 badges, I should switch them so people quit going like "oh thats only a half ton" It would save me a lot of explaining...



thelettuceman;1620513 said:


> Very nice build. Thanx for the pictures and documenting all of that.


Thanks, I am pretty happy with the way it turned out.


----------



## Drew2010 (Jan 26, 2008)

Another question, this pump my friend has, has the cable style valve block, I had considered a small crane/hoist on my flatbed, If this pump does work for my dump box I could use it for that too. 

So here is my situation, he said he doesnt have the joystick that connects to the cables. It is my understanding that when you move the stick to the up or either side position, it closes a circuit and makes the pump run. If I were to use this pump, could I run it off a switch and relay, and make some levers on the side like a wrecker would use? 

I assume if the pump runs it just bypasses back to the reservoir if the valves are not open in any position, am I correct on this?


----------

