# F250 Oil Pan



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Doing an oil pan replacement on a 95 F250 4x4. Anyone ever done one? What a pain so far. The big crossmember is in the way. Already had to remove intake. Disconnect hoses and lines, Disconnect motor mounts, lift motor. Loosened pan bolts. Now I have to drop the pickup from inside the pan according to the book. Any hints would be helpful.


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## fordhipo (May 25, 2001)

I've done more of these then I want to remember. Sounds like you are doing everything in the right order so far. If you haven't pulled the pan out yet what we used to do is take a sawsall and cut the pan in half and pull it out in two pieces (watching out for the oil pump pick up tube laying in oil pan). It seems the replacement pan was just a little shorter and fits in better then the old one comes out. Start the two bolts and nut before tighting any thing up. Good luck
Ken


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## GeoffD (Dec 21, 1999)

Had one done the other day, I sent it to the dealer.

For less thank 1 K i got a new rear main seal, and oil pan. I am not going to mess with that. The job is rated at 6.8 hours for the pan, and 6.3 for the seal. It is just one long crappy job.

Geoff


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Really? I got the replacement from an aout parts store. Is it a little smaller or a different shape? I was thinking about cuting it to get it past the front main cap. Looks like this will hang me up tomorrow. Just was thinking I still got to get the new one in. 

So taking the intake plenum off is the key to raising the motor up? Tried to get past it without doing that.

Oh well.


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Yep Fords better idea. Rotted oil pans in less than 7 years. Boy shure glad I am a bow tie guy.
Dino


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## GeoffD (Dec 21, 1999)

The motor must be jacked up, and the trans removed from the motor, so that you are able to jack the engine high enough. I have heard in some cases you must remove the motor from the truck. My best advice is bite the bullet and let the dealer do it.

If it isn't the exact same size and shape, you might have the wrong pan.

Geoff


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## fordhipo (May 25, 2001)

The front cap was the real tight spot on the old pan that's why I cut them out. The new pan is the same shape just seemed a little shorter by maybe an 1/8 inch, was just enough to clear the front cap.
The upper intake plenum was strange some we had to remove some we could lift high enough to clear with it on.
Ken


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

According to my book and the dealer serviceman I know the Motor does not have to come out. Instead by removing the manifold you can get enough lift. I guess I will find out tomorrow.

351 Motor and 5 spd by the way


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## fordhipo (May 25, 2001)

Dino: we had some come in that were rotted out in 3 years. The 300-6 were the worst.
GeoffD: we were able to do them with the trans still in , just a real tight fit and a knukle buster.
Ken


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

That is my concern. I know I could get it out if I pull hard enough or cut. I just want to be able to get the thing back in.

On another note. Dealer wanted 150 for on, Junkyard 75, Parts Store New 55. Seemed kinda funny to me


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## thelawnguy (May 20, 2001)

Heh, when that cheapie pan is rotted thru in a year and your at it again we shall see what the "real" bargain is...

Doesnt ford paint these things? Tho every blue oval Ive encountered leaks enough from the front seal that the pan should never rust.


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Instead of Quality is Job 1
it should read Part sales are job 1
That problem right there is enough for me never to want a ford. Yet you guys keep going back over and over ......
I guess some people never learn.
Dino


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Just finished! It was actually fairly easy. Once the manifold came off the engine went up enough that the pan fell right out. New on in and everything works fine. He should get another 150,000 now.


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## fordhipo (May 25, 2001)

Great! Glad it worked out.
Ken


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## BATTLIN_BLAZES (Sep 23, 2001)

guess what im another one of those fools dino,lmao got rid of my 95 f150 with the rotted oil pan @ 63,000 miles wasnt real happy with ford, but yes i went back and bought my 2nd ford...was a die hard chevy guy for years....big earnhardt fan...(R.I.P. BUDDY)...just hoping that problems gone with this 01`anyone with a newer f-150 have bad news to share id love to here it?ive heard something about the power window motors actually cracking the doors anyone else have this problem?guess if this one dont hold up its back to bowties.....just wish theyd put some ground clearance back under those chevies....of course on another note my dads 01 chevy has been no stranger to the wrecker ....maybe it goes back to that never buy a vehicle that was made on monday or friday theory?



rich


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## speedracer241 (Oct 13, 2001)

the newer f-150's i have worked on tend to crack the doorskin at the back edge of the door glass. starts out as a pretty small crack but can get larger and cause rust in that spot. fords remedy was to replace the doors with the exact same style door, no reinforcement on anything in that area. we replaced lots of those under warranty. was told their theory (fords) was to get them out of warranty and then it was the customers problem. not working for a ford dealer now so i dont know of too many problems.

well good luck with your new truck
Mark K


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## intimidator (Jun 5, 2001)

If its a 5.4 L, right headgasket has a tendency to leak oil. Also seen a few broken torsoin bars.

Jason


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Is that head gasket, or valve cover gasket?
Dino


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

That is the valve cover. I have done a few of these.

250-350 and up uses leaf springs
150 everyone I have ever seen uses Coils. Unless the new 150s are different

Chevy uses Torsion bars
Toyota did as well until 95
I think Torsion Bar suspensions are great unless one is trying to support a diesel and a plow.


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## BATTLIN_BLAZES (Sep 23, 2001)

no springs on my 01 f-150 just fyi not sure when they changed to the torision bars?holding a 5.4 with a plow well i guess time will tell it`ll be allright for the little to no abuse im going to give it these things cost too much to abuse....


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## intimidator (Jun 5, 2001)

It's the headgaskets that leak on the 5.4L. And for some reason its always the right side, and I've never seen the 4.6L or the v-10 leak, or at least in that spot. 

Jason


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## intimidator (Jun 5, 2001)

F-150's and Expeditions went to torsion bars in 97. And it is the headgaskets I've seen leaking oil, and for some strange reason, it's always the right rear corner. 4.6L and v-10s don't seem to have this problem.

Jason


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## intimidator (Jun 5, 2001)

woops


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

I have not seen a leaking head gasket on a 5.4??? Maybe the owners I know have been lucky. I have seen oil leaks though from the valve covers.


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## intimidator (Jun 5, 2001)

It hasn't been a bad problem, I've probably done 5 or 6, thank god for warrnty (for the truck owners, not me, warranty work doe
sn't pay worth a crap).

Jason


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## ChicagoSnow (Oct 29, 2001)

If I can add a couple things regarding Ford trucks......... in particular F-350 4x4's w/Powerstroke diesels.......... finest plow truck made!

I own 2 - 1997 F-350's(1 diesel 1 gas), 1 1997 F-250(diesel) & 1 2001 F-350(diesel) all single rear wheels.........very reliable trucks!

I'm not sure why a "plower" would use a F-150 for anything outside of some leisurely home repair? The right tool for the job makes all the difference!

Now in regard to Chevy........ I own a 99 3500 4x4 (Gas 5.7) dump that has given me nothing but problems. Front brakes, trans, door mirror brackets(SQUEAKING ANNOYS ME)........ it may be a "1 ton" truck but rides like a 1/2 pick up truck with the torsion front end is terrible as far as supporting a Meyer CP 9(poly) goes. Also own 98 Isuzu NPR HD (5.7 gas GM) I was sold this truck as a plow truck........2 rear ends later with only 19,000 miles it is now a salt truck......ONLY!

FORD TILL THE END!

Joe


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Wait till those trannies start grenading, then we will see how great they are. How about all the front end work that 250 needs with that crappy TIB front end. I will take a torsion bar front end all day over that TIB garbage.
As for the front ends being weak on gm's. Why can they carry more legal front weight than your big bad Super duty 250/350.
Yes you read it right, the GM IFS is rated to carry more weight than the solid front axel on the fords.
I think its a case of preconcieved notions of you not likeing Gm that makes you hate that truck. Just like I owned a 88 F-150 for 6 months and it was the worst 6 months of my truck life.
If I owned a new ford I would pick it to death, and yet I probably over look some bad things about my GM.
I have had 0 problems with my 98 IFS front end, and no front brake problems either. I change the front pads every 25K, and havent even turned the rotors. I have pulled a few f-350's out of the snow tho.
They are all good trucks, and if you want to sell that k-3500 cheap, I will take it.
Oh yeah, a few turns on the torsion bars raises the spring rate, and it will carry that plow alot better. My 98 doesnt move a 1/2" when I pick up my 8.5' mvp.
Dino


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## thelawnguy (May 20, 2001)

"Yes you read it right, the GM IFS is rated to carry more weight than the solid front axel on the fords. "

You should probably explain this statement as it has me confused. 5200 GAWR Ford vs 4400 GM is the numbers I see?


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

The hd 2500 has a 4800 lb front axel rating, but is better balanced in that it has less front end weight, so a higher capcity to carry a larger plow.
In fact the 3500 series truck cab and chassis can carry a 9.5' v plow, whereas you need at least a 450 for the same plow, and dodge cant carry the 9.5' v plow at all. I have the 2001 fisher specs and I didnt beleive it either till I read it.
You look for yourself at the fisher web site.
Dino


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## ChicagoSnow (Oct 29, 2001)

All right guys......it looks like we have some true differences in regard to our plow truck of choice! 

That's good- makes you think about the various challenges we all have with different make of trucks in our fleet.

We'll back on Chevy trucks......... torsion front ends in particular, what can you say about the torsion being adjusted to the highest point and not to mention Timbren load boosters - but still the 9' poly blade is just too much weight on the front end. At rest, sure the truck looks fine, hit a pothole - the front end bounces like a 1972 Impala! Also how about uneven tire wear(outer edges) due to the "maxed" front torsion bars.

See....you just don't see these problems with Ford 1 ton and greater solid axle, leaf spring front ends!

Let me know!

Joe


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