# 97 Keeps getting dots on paint after waxing



## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Truck is grey 97 F250 XLT. Did a coat of Turtle Wax, and it keeps doing this where water would sit. Can get them off with damp rag.

Almost feels like it penetrates the coat of wax, because there is a TINY chip like things where the water was on.

Am going to do a coat of Carnuba today or tomorrow and am hoping that will help?

Lets hope that the tarps I put on hood and roof keep this off/.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Mineral deposits from the water.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Not enough potassium chloride in the wax


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## tjctransport (Nov 22, 2008)

dieselss;2007881 said:


> Mineral deposits from the water.


yup, water spots from minerals in the water.
when you have hard water you have to either blow dry it, or whipe the water off to dry it.


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## MXZ1983 (Mar 8, 2015)

Before you wax it use a shami. Then use a better wax. Like meguires cleaner wax. Does wonders.


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## CityGuy (Dec 19, 2008)

You could try using a clay bar to remove the dots.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Hard water. I have the same issue. I dry my vehicles with a large, soft beach towel.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

What you appear to have there is classic hard water spotting. Unless you remove the spotting entirely, you'll wax right over it and be right back where you started from. 

So how do you remove it? Vinegar will usually dissolve it and then you can rinse off the residue. Do not try this process in direct sunlight BTW. Do it in the shade. You can try to polish it off with various automotive polishes, but you run the risk of doing even more damage to your paint.

Next, since you have a wax and mineral free surface, you can apply a good coat of high quality (not Turtle Wax) wax or synthetic sealant. I detail cars fairly regularly and co-moderate a detailing web site. That said, my current favorite waxes are Collonite 845 or 476S. My favorite sealants are Menzerna Power Lock and Blackfire Wet Diamond.


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

Salt spray from the ocean.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Too Stroked;2008379 said:


> What you appear to have there is classic hard water spotting. Unless you remove the spotting entirely, you'll wax right over it and be right back where you started from.
> 
> So how do you remove it? Vinegar will usually dissolve it and then you can rinse off the residue. Do not try this process in direct sunlight BTW. Do it in the shade. You can try to polish it off with various automotive polishes, but you run the risk of doing even more damage to your paint.
> 
> Next, since you have a wax and mineral free surface, you can apply a good coat of high quality (not Turtle Wax) wax or synthetic sealant. I detail cars fairly regularly and co-moderate a detailing web site. That said, my current favorite waxes are Collonite 845 or 476S. My favorite sealants are Menzerna Power Lock and Blackfire Wet Diamond.


Thanks for the advice Too Stroked! So I should Remove the Turtle Wax, (How do you do that) and then use a nicer wax? Which one do you think would be best?

I can get them off with a wet rag and a little rubbing usually, but that is not really getting them off? I would need to basically wash the hood/roof in vinegar and then re wax?

I am no expert in this at all, so sorry about all of the questions!


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

kawasaki guy;2008390 said:


> Thanks for the advice Too Stroked! So I should Remove the Turtle Wax, (How do you do that) and then use a nicer wax? Which one do you think would be best?
> 
> I can get them off with a wet rag and a little rubbing usually, but that is not really getting them off? I would need to basically wash the hood/roof in vinegar and then re wax?
> 
> I am no expert in this at all, so sorry about all of the questions!


The easiest way to remove just about any wax is a good wash with Dawn Dish Soap. Just don't ever use it on a vehicle for any other reason.

I'd skip the rubbing to get the spots off since all you will be doing is marring your paint where you rub. Try the vinegar. Trust me, it'll work just fine - if you do it in the shade, let it soak / work for a bit then rinse really, really well.

As for the re-waxing, I'd suggest the Collonite 845. It's great stuff, lasts decently and as long as you apply / remove it in the shade, it's pretty easy to work with. If you want _really _easy to work with, get the Menzerna Power Lock. It'll also last longer.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Too Stroked;2008511 said:


> The easiest way to remove just about any wax is a good wash with Dawn Dish Soap. Just don't ever use it on a vehicle for any other reason.
> 
> I'd skip the rubbing to get the spots off since all you will be doing is marring your paint where you rub. Try the vinegar. Trust me, it'll work just fine - if you do it in the shade, let it soak / work for a bit then rinse really, really well.
> 
> As for the re-waxing, I'd suggest the Collonite 845. It's great stuff, lasts decently and as long as you apply / remove it in the shade, it's pretty easy to work with. If you want _really _easy to work with, get the Menzerna Power Lock. It'll also last longer.


Will wash off wax, get off spots with vinegar, and then re wax with the Collinite 845 or Power Lock.

Sounds easy enough. Thanks for the help!

But how much of the wax or sealant will I need? I also like to get inside the door frames if that matters...


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## CornerStoneProp (Nov 22, 2009)

A lot of people use way too much wax. Just a slight haze will do it. Less to wipe off when you are done. I wax my truck and wife's car and still have a ton left in a single bottle of Mcguires NXT tech wax. For door jams I like the spray quick wax stuff. It is easier to apply but does not last as long. I think with the door jam being unexposed to uv light most of the time it would still leave a small layer of protection from rust.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

kawasaki guy;2008609 said:


> Will wash off wax, get off spots with vinegar, and then re wax with the Collinite 845 or Power Lock.
> 
> Sounds easy enough. Thanks for the help!
> 
> But how much of the wax or sealant will I need? I also like to get inside the door frames if that matters...


As has already been said, many folks use way too much wax / sealant and it not only wastes product, but in some cases (like with Collonite 845) it makes for a real pain to remove. All you need is a light haze on the surface. I never apply more than a dime sized droplet to a foam wax applicator and that should easily do about a 4' x 4' area.

As for doing door jambs and such, I always clean and wax them as part of a full detail and I do think it helps prevent corrosion to a certain extent.

How far will a bottle go? I believe the 845 only comes in one size bottle and it should last you at least 10 vehicles - if not more.


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## CornerStoneProp (Nov 22, 2009)

You may also want to look into a clay bar will make a world of difference.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

CornerStoneProp;2008904 said:


> You may also want to look into a clay bar will make a world of difference.


Good point, but be careful with clay. Read up on how to use it properly. If you use it incorrectly, I've seen some real messes created that folks came to me to fix. Good for business though.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

About to order the Power Lock (And some applicator pads and fancy looking towels), but was wondering if there is such a thing as "The Best" car soap. Have been using whatever K-Mart, hardware store, etc has with good results, but was not sure if there is something better I should be buying. Last purchase was the purple "Meguiar's G10464 Deep Crystal Car Wash - 64 oz.", and it works fine, but want to make sure it will not damage the Power Lock I am about to buy.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Stop waxing it.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Don't take this the wrong way, its a daily driver work truck,right?

Going on 16-17 years old, right?

Yes it's last year of OBS but still?

I understand pride and all but I couldn't worry about something like that. 

Sorry bud, that's just me.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

There with ya. Gotta go, at bar, foods ccoming


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Mark Oomkes;2016050 said:


> Stop waxing it.





1olddogtwo;2016102 said:


> Don't take this the wrong way, its a daily driver work truck,right?
> 
> Going on 16-17 years old, right?
> 
> ...





Randall Ave;2016146 said:


> There with ya. Gotta go, at bar, foods ccoming


only waxed it once. However, the Turtle wax was not that good, so I am going to just re wax it with Power Lock Too Stroked was talking about. I just want to keep the paint protected and the truck clean. I see nothing wrong with that? Plus I like the OBS fords.

But after reading Amaon reviews, I think the purple car wash stuff I am using right now is good stuff, and does not harm wax.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

kawasaki guy;2016005 said:


> About to order the Power Lock (And some applicator pads and fancy looking towels), but was wondering if there is such a thing as "The Best" car soap. Have been using whatever K-Mart, hardware store, etc has with good results, but was not sure if there is something better I should be buying. Last purchase was the purple "Meguiar's G10464 Deep Crystal Car Wash - 64 oz.", and it works fine, but want to make sure it will not damage the Power Lock I am about to buy.


As long as you stick to a brand name car wash soap - _in the correct concentration_ - you should be fine. If you use even the best car wash soap at too high of a concentration, or use dish washing soap, you can remove just about any wax or sealant in one wash. (I actually use Dawn Dish Soap on some vehicles to remove all previous wax before detailing.) Some automatic car washes - especially the "touchless" variety - can also remove just about anything in one shot.

The Mequiar's product you've been using is great stuff. If you're happy with it, keep using it.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Good to know. What ratio do you mix dawn dish soap at to remove wax? Still have not done anything to get turtle wax off yet. Have been doing purple car wash at 4 oz/ gal as per bottle's recommendation. That sounds right to me... 

And can't wait to get the good wax on the truck finally. Will make me feel so much better about keeping paint protected.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

kawasaki guy;2016611 said:


> Good to know. What ratio do you mix dawn dish soap at to remove wax? Still have not done anything to get turtle wax off yet. Have been doing purple car wash at 4 oz/ gal as per bottle's recommendation. That sounds right to me...
> 
> And can't wait to get the good wax on the truck finally. Will make me feel so much better about keeping paint protected.


I just pour about half a shot glass into a 5 gallon bucket and go to town with it. And make sure you rinse everything really well before drying and waxing.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Too stroked, I waxed with the power lock friday, and I squirted the hood with water today to see how well it worked.

Apparently, it did not work that well. Full of dots just like before. Going to have ti re wax hood now....

Any suggestions?


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Have you tried watching Karate Kid....... Wax On right hand, Wax off left hand...


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

kawasaki guy;2018812 said:


> Too stroked, I waxed with the power lock friday, and I squirted the hood with water today to see how well it worked.
> 
> Apparently, it did not work that well. Full of dots just like before. Going to have ti re wax hood now....
> 
> Any suggestions?


Hmmm, interesting. I've never had that problem and the beading is kind of wild. Small, very numerous droplets.

A few questions then:

1) Was the surface you coated with the Power Lock clean, dry and wax free?

2) Did you apply and remove the Power Lock according to the instructions?

3) Did you wash the truck afterwards? (Remember, the wrong detergent can remove even the best products instantly.)

4) Do you by chance have hard (lots of minerals) tap water?

I still don't know exactly what might have happened. I might suggest waiting for natural rain water to see how that beads. Some tap water can be pretty weird.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I had water beading like you describe (condensation would bead, really nice), but I think I have a lot of minerals in my water. still get the dots all over. Same effect from rain water too.

Washed truck with 5 gal water/ 1/2 shot glass of dawn dish soap. (I used one full shot glass just to be sure though)

And I applied the wax like I normally would, or how they do it in the video on this site

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...enzerna-power-lock-polymer-paint-sealant.html

Rest of truck is fine, but where water sits for a while, will penetrate it.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Edit: tap water does dotting, but rain does not. Did not look that closely. Hood was dirty when it rained, and I dried it off with a dusty towel.

Do I am thinking I just have a lot of minerals in my tap water. Time for a filter of some sort.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

I'm thinking that you just have a lot of minerals in your water. Of course where I live, we don't have a lot of minerals and rain water still beads a ton better than hose water.

Here's another interesting fact / useful tip. One way to make drying your car or truck easier is _not _to use the nozzle when you do your final rinse. Instead, use the nozzle to get everything rinsed off. Then, remove the nozzle and reduce the pressure so that you get a soft, even flow. Now rinse each panel with this soft flow and you will see the water almost totally sheet right off. (Yes, even with fresh wax.)

The reason I mention this is that even a freshly waxed surface will sheet instead of bead water under the right conditions. And, you can use this to your advantage!


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Too Stroked;2020167 said:


> I'm thinking that you just have a lot of minerals in your water. Of course where I live, we don't have a lot of minerals and rain water still beads a ton better than hose water.
> 
> Here's another interesting fact / useful tip. One way to make drying your car or truck easier is _not _to use the nozzle when you do your final rinse. Instead, use the nozzle to get everything rinsed off. Then, remove the nozzle and reduce the pressure so that you get a soft, even flow. Now rinse each panel with this soft flow and you will see the water almost totally sheet right off. (Yes, even with fresh wax.)
> 
> The reason I mention this is that even a freshly waxed surface will sheet instead of bead water under the right conditions. And, you can use this to your advantage!


I think rain water beads a lot better then tap water too.

Rained last night, and no dots, so it is just lots of minerals in my tap water. Will try not using nozzle for final rinse and see if it helps.

Thanks!

Glad to have finally resolved my truck wax issues.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Rained last night, and no dots, so it is just lots of minerals in my tap water. Will try not using nozzle for final rinse and see if it helps.

Thanks!

Glad to have finally resolved my truck wax issues.

Pretty sure the first few posts already told you there were mineral deposits. But you didn't want to believe us.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Thread still going and going.....

LoL

Sounds like hard water spots, try power blocking neighbors car and see what happens.


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

dieselss;2020668 said:


> Rained last night, and no dots, so it is just lots of minerals in my tap water. Will try not using nozzle for final rinse and see if it helps.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ...


I knew that, I just finally got around to doing quality wax. Now it only dots from tap water, and I don't need to dry truck after every rain storm.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

"Extra" minerals in water can lead to Kidney Stones later in life


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

kawasaki guy;2020729 said:


> I knew that, I just finally got around to doing quality wax. Now it only dots from tap water, and I don't need to dry truck after every rain storm.


So then why ask if you don't want to hear the answer?
Do you dry the mowers after a rain storm too?


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

BUFF;2020732 said:


> "Extra" minerals in water can lead to Kidney Stones later in life


only if your consistently dehydrated.

All this because of water spots from hard water:laughing:

to dry it use your leaf blower.
or park it on a hill so the water rolls off.....


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

SnoFarmer;2020904 said:


> only if your consistently dehydrated.
> 
> All this because of water spots from hard water:laughing:
> 
> ...


Or towel dry.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

SnoFarmer;2020904 said:


> only if your consistently dehydrated.
> 
> All this because of water spots from hard water:laughing:
> 
> ...


Or pop open the hood til dry.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

or.................


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## kawasaki guy (Nov 22, 2012)

dieselss;2020753 said:


> So then why ask if you don't want to hear the answer?
> Do you dry the mowers after a rain storm too?


I knew that after the first page of answers. 

I thought you were saying i ignored the answers everyone gave.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

So what's next, water spots on your wheels


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Have you tried using armor all on the seat of your rider to prevent sun damage?


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