# Custom Wear bars?



## Steve G. (Jan 18, 2009)

Hey guys, I'm not happy with the wear bar that came on the new polaris glacier snowplow; It is at the same height as the plow and doesn't really help protect the plow itself and on top of that it doesn't clean the pavement as nice as I've seen others do it... probably because it floats a little instead of scrapes. I'm thinking of making my own wear bar out of 1/4" x 4" x 5' steel. Has anyone done this before? It's basically just drilling holes, right?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

p.s. dealer said it costs $60-70 for a new wear bar!


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## EaTmYtAiLpIpEs (Aug 23, 2007)

yep just drill the holes in the right spot, and bolt it on!


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## hansons glc (Jan 17, 2009)

i make my own out of 3/8 steel


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## xraybox (Feb 5, 2009)

I got two seasons out of a piece of 1/4 X 2" I had laying around.
Keep in mind if you use carriage bolts you might want to square up the holes so the bolts don't spin.
Next time I was thinking about 3/8 X 4" to see how much better it wears.


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## Steve G. (Jan 18, 2009)

xraybox;743668 said:


> I got two seasons out of a piece of 1/4 X 2" I had laying around.
> Keep in mind if you use carriage bolts you might want to square up the holes so the bolts don't spin.
> Next time I was thinking about 3/8 X 4" to see how much better it wears.


What is the best way to square up the holes?

I was thinking 3/8's would be a little overkill!


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## EaTmYtAiLpIpEs (Aug 23, 2007)

Steve G.;743678 said:


> What is the best way to square up the holes?
> 
> I was thinking 3/8's would be a little overkill!


when I do mine I am just gonna use regular bolts. much easier.


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## JTLossos (Jan 30, 2009)

No need to square up the holes. When I made mine I simply bored the intial holes with a quarter inch bit followed by a bit just fractionally smaller than the "squared shoulder" on the bolt, as measured diagonally across the "square". Put the bolts in and ratchet them down. This will basically pinch the bolts into place at all four corners preventing them from spinning. Keep in mind though that if you are too small your bolts won't seat, too large and you will "spin" the bolt next time you attempt to remove it.

Oh....and by the way.....3/8 isn't really overkill. I find it adds a little more weight to my blade helping to scrape marginally better. Should also improve wear resistance, albeit marginally.


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## xraybox (Feb 5, 2009)

JTLossos;744240 said:


> No need to square up the holes. When I made mine I simply bored the intial holes with a quarter inch bit followed by a bit just fractionally smaller than the "squared shoulder" on the bolt, as measured diagonally across the "square". Put the bolts in and ratchet them down. This will basically pinch the bolts into place at all four corners preventing them from spinning. Keep in mind though that if you are too small your bolts won't seat, too large and you will "spin" the bolt next time you attempt to remove it.
> 
> Oh....and by the way.....3/8 isn't really overkill. I find it adds a little more weight to my blade helping to scrape marginally better. Should also improve wear resistance, albeit marginally.


Steve, Go with JTLossos's suggestion, I used a file to square the holes, but I can be a little anal about stuff like that.


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## leroycool (Jan 22, 2009)

i put 3/8 x 2 1/2 wear bar on my blade  works great 

+ i made my blade nice and thick so it keeps the wear bar on the ground and it will NEVER bend  i should see how many pounds it is


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