# Dual Battery Install Instructions for a Chevy



## streetfrog

Please make this a Sticky Forum Mod..

This is compliments of B&B.
Here is a complete install instructions for all of you trying to hook up dual batteries. Good Luck.....

The battery tray is a easy to add, you just use the factory aux battery tray from GM and it will bolt into the stock location just like GM intented.. The tray is mounted on the pass side inner fender between the coolant tank and the firewall. You will need to remove the upper curved fender brace between the fender and the firewall to provide the clearance for the battery but it won't affect the structural integrity of the fender. Depending on the physical size of the battery you going to mount in the tray, you may need to trim the tab off the firewall where the fender brace was mounted that you just removed. A quick zip with an air saw or even tin snips will remove it easily. Use a file and a little touch up paint on the cut edge to dress it up a bit.

The part numbers you need to get from the dealer are:
Support: 15705102
Screw: 11509853
Clamp: 356668

The easiest way to wire duel batteries to the 99-up Silverados is to use batteries that have top and side terminals both. By having top and side terminals both, you can just leave your stock cables the way they are and use the top posts for all your additional connections. I like to use a set of top post terminals like these here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y+Terminal.htm I just provided the link so you'd know what to look for since you can buy them at a local store like NAPA or AutoZone or most any stereo shop. I also like the fact that these terminals are gold plated so they last a lot longer as far as corrosion goes.These style terminals make this a super easy job because if you look closely at the pic, they have ports in them that you just strip the insulation off the cable and insert it into the port in the terminal.They have an Allen set screw in them to tighten the cable. That way you don't need to crimp any cables. I do recommend adding a little solder to the stripped end of the cable though so the Allen screw doesn't crush the cable and will add additional contact surface. Just buy enough cable to reach from one battery to the other how ever you want to route them around the engine compartment and simply connect the positive on one battery to the positive of the other battery terminal. Do the same thing on the negative side too.

Three other things that I would recommend doing at this time:

1) Upgrade the charging wire on the back of the alternator to a 4 gage cable as this is a weak link on the GM trucks. Leave the stock one in place but add a second one from the charging stud (where the original wire is on the alternator) directly to the positive on either battery (driver side would be closer).

2) Add an extra ground cable from the aux battery to the frame, and one from the frame to the engine.

For these 3 cables you can just buy a replacement universal battery cable with an eye on one end. Then you can just cut the other end off (doesn't even matter what kind of end is on this side as your cutting it off anyway) and insert it into your gold plated terminal.

Make sure both the power and ground cables for the plow are connected directly to a battery. Do not connect them to the factory pos junction block near the power steering pump or connect the ground anywhere but the battery. This will allow a clean voltage path directly from the batteries to the plow where it's need the most.

That's why these gold plated "port" style battery terminals are so handy, since they're easy to add extra cables to and they still look clean and neat with good conductivity.

You want to use 2 gage cable for all these wiring upgrades (except the new alternator wire, use 4 gage like mentioned)

Adding the duel batteries connected directly togethter and upgrading the stock charging wire and ground cables will allow the system to operate at peak efficiency and allow the alternator to provide all the amperage it can to keep the batteries charged.wesport


----------



## Welderguy24

good post, but your link doesn't work


----------



## B&B

Streetfrog musta broke the link when he posted it .

Here's a pic of the battery terminals in the link:


----------



## ABES

good post i think it should be a sticky as well. i dont understand why there arent very many stickys on this site. i keep seeing the same questions asked over and over again.


----------



## 10elawncare

i think it is a sticky


----------



## B&B

ABES;495380 said:


> good post i think it should be a sticky as well. i dont understand why there arent very many stickies on this site. i keep seeing the same questions asked over and over again.


Excellent point ABES....I find myself typing the same answers over and over again (in pm's too). That's why we decided on the sticky.

Might do a T-bar sticky also.


----------



## 10elawncare

thanks B&B for your help! from both that post and your PM's. Was a lot easier than i thought it was going to be.


----------



## B&B

10elawncare;495386 said:


> thanks B&B for your help! from both that post and your PM's. Was a lot easier than i thought it was going to be.


More than happy to help bud!


----------



## streetfrog

B&B gave me a bad link LOL actually don't know if it worked before as I didn't try it. my bad. Anyway B&B put up a pic from the working link sooo.. And it is a Sticky. After you post you need to pm the Mods' I asked Michael. to sticky it and he did...


----------



## B&B

streetfrog;495435 said:


> B&B gave me a bad link LOL actually don't know if it worked before as I didn't try it.


 I did...right before I sent it to ya..tag your it!


----------



## streetfrog

LOL You missed me na na na:redbounce I never tried it before I posted it. like I said my bad. I need to take some pics of my equip and make a couple of posts. Like for the prowings on where you need to reinforce so it doesn't bend. I found out 20 min after install the hard way lol. Damn yellow drive thru poles


----------



## Bill 211

Heres a pic of my setup
a little easier with no a/c


----------



## saabman

Here are a couple of pics of my dual battery install in a OBS K1500. The braided cables are audio quality (high current) 4 ga. Specs on them compare favorably with run of the mill 2 ga (not all cables are created equal). You can also see the mounting for the Fisher Isolation module. I know others use top/side post batteries, but my install is done with just side posts (the primary battery does have a multi adapter on it)










The shot shows the routing of the cables across the radiator shroud to the primary battery.


----------



## Josh Steere

I have a 2004 2500 chevy and i have a qestion.

What kind of air cleaner are you running when you put the battery on the passenger side!


----------



## Indy

>>>I did the same install and it works great, one suggestion is mark your cables that cross the radiator, you can get red and black plastic loom covering @ autozone for $4. and it will keep you safe if you use it to jump or just working on it. IMHO...........looks great


----------



## B&B

Josh Steere;523211 said:


> I have a 2004 2500 chevy and i have a qestion.
> 
> What kind of air cleaner are you running when you put the battery on the passenger side!


The stock one. Its is a little tight but the 99-newer Silverado trucks could be had with the duel batts as a factory option (on a gas engine) so the provision is there for it, just a bit tight.


----------



## Josh Steere

Ok i have another question? Dose the battery on the passenger side fit back by the firewall or right up against the raidator support!

If its by the radiator support i have no room for stock filter housing. 

Dose any one have a pic of the dual battery for the passenger side on a 2004 or so 2500 chevy.


----------



## B&B

Here's a pic Josh of where you can see the aux battery location on the '99 newer Silverado's. You can see it mounts back near the firewall.


----------



## Josh Steere

thanks a lot for all your help. I will be picking mine up on monday! $30. not bad either. 

Again thanks everyone.


----------



## saabman

> >>>I did the same install and it works great, one suggestion is mark your cables that cross the radiator, you can get red and black plastic loom covering @ autozone for $4. and it will keep you safe if you use it to jump or just working on it. IMHO...........looks great


Subsequent to taking the pictures I used colored electrician tape to mark hot and ground leads. I like the idea of the loom covering, I will check that out.


----------



## Zodiac

I just wanted to add...

Some times a battery isolator might be a good idea too.

The idea of an isolator is that both batteries get charged, but only one battery will get drawn down if you leave your key or lights on.

In my 1991 K2500, I have dual Cat batteries, but I do NOT have an isolator, as I like my plow to draw from BOTH my batteries, not just one. 

But someday, and I'm not sure when this'll be, I'll post diagrams on how to wire up a switch and relays so both batteries charge, but one runs the plow, the other runs the truck. If your truck battery dies, you can flip the switch and use it to jump start your own truck.


----------



## B&B

Zodiac;561412 said:


> But someday, and I'm not sure when this'll be, I'll post diagrams on how to wire up a switch and relays so both batteries charge, but one runs the plow, the other runs the truck. If your truck battery dies, you can flip the switch and use it to jump start your own truck.


Done many that way as well Chad. I like to use a 3rd (or even a 4th depending on the situation) battery in those circumstances if space allows. Plenty of power, plus reserve power to spare...the best of both worlds.


----------



## Zodiac

You've seen my truck...

I'm quickly headed towards four batteries.

Where I'll put them I do not know.


----------



## B&B

I usually make a custom box/cross members and mount them between the frame rails under the bed, using sealed batteries and lying them on their sides for extra clearance.

Some guys are satisfied with placing them in the bed in plastic marine boxes but personally I hate to use up the bed space. Have done a couple were I mounted them inside of a bed mounted tool box (in the center). As long as they're inside plastic battery boxes it works well.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

i did mine last year i will post some pics also did anyone one go neg to neg or just to block ? i dont like the way its looks on the block i might run it to neg terminal


----------



## B&B

PLOWMAN45;586435 said:


> did anyone one go neg to neg or just to block ? i dont like the way its looks on the block i might run it to neg terminal


Could you elaborate on that plowman?


----------



## PLOWMAN45

my 2nd bat cable goes to the engine block i was thinking of running a neg cable from the second to the first


----------



## B&B

PLOWMAN45;586564 said:


> my 2nd bat cable goes to the engine block i was thinking of running a neg cable from the second to the first


Smart thought. The more you can tie all the grounds together the better. :salute:


----------



## RichG53

BB You did not say if both batteries have to be the same AMPS..... To work right....Please reply......


----------



## PLOWMAN45

i have 2 of same red top optimas batterys with a 145 am in my truck


----------



## B&B

RichG53;586624 said:


> BB You did not say if both batteries have to be the same AMPS..... To work right....Please reply......


Yes you want the batterys to be as exact as they can be...same size, same specs, and same age in order to get the most life and performance out of them, as well as the alternator.


----------



## RichG53

Thank you for your quick responds.....I have other ?? to ask maybe this weekend when I have more time to type them out.....Thanks again....


----------



## PLOWMAN45

here is mine with 2/0 gauge wiring


----------



## RepoMan207

I currently have a 02 GMC 2500 HD 6.0 with only 1 battery. I understand this post reflects what I can do to my truck, but the questions is....Do I need to? The dealer actual sells a complete kit to do all of this. A bit pricey though. $342.00 with a battery!

I am adding this week a Mini Lightbar with 6 strobes, 2 alleys, 2 take downs, and an additional set of Work lights off the back rack. Not sure if it matter, but I run a Fisher MM1 8 HD with SEHP motor. *Is this sustainable off 1 battery, or should I upgrade?*


----------



## Detroitdan

I think you'll be fine with a single battery, as long as it's pretty HD and in good shape, with a good alternator. Strobes don't take much power, and the other lights would probably only be on for brief periods. 
I suffered through various batteries, alternators and never had enough power on my first plowtruck, a 79 Chevy. Eventually put two batteries in wired to an isolator. Had all my auxiliary stuff on one battery, and the truck running off the other. Nothing made it happy. Even put a powermaster hi-output alternator in it, I later learned that higher output alternators put out less at low rpms than a stock alternator. Anyway, I was never happy with it, someone told me they use them in sequence so I switched to that. This truck came with dual batteries in sequence from the factory, works the balls for me. I wouldn't go back to an isolator. And like B&B said, it is important to have the batteries matched in age, size, etc. So I think it must be important to use them at the same rate too.


----------



## RepoMan207

Thanks man, I was kinda hoping that was the case.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

didnt cost me 342.00


----------



## RepoMan207

I didn't think so....I will gather my own stuff when it comes time. My chin hit the floor when I heared that. Seemed a bit high for wire, battery and tray. Obviosuly it comes with more then that, but still!


----------



## Detroitdan

I bought a tray at the dealer for my 79, but I'm sure you can probably get a cheaper aftermarket one from LMC or JCW or somewhere. But you're biggest expense is going to be two new big batteries (gotta match them). I wouldn't go that route until you know you have to.
I think the only reason my current truck came with two batteries is for starting a pretty large diesel with high compression in cold weather.
There is a formula for adding up your amp draw vs your available current, and how many amps you can recharge your battery with in how long of a time period, blah blah blah. I just figure if I run it down on a job, I'll charge it back up on the way to the next job.


----------



## Hambrick & Co.

OK so I am going to attempt this install tomorrow depending on the weather.. I just want to be clear that I can go pos to pos and neg to neg correct? Or should the neg go to the engine block off the second batt? Also should I reroute some of things wire to the original battery over to the new? or does that not make a difference?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## 6feetdeep

I'm impressed w/ all the setups shown in the pics. Having worked at a stereo install shop in a previous life (about 12 yrs. ago), I am used to seeing wires going every which way, tied together w/ duct tape and bread ties on DIY installs. Usually, customers would buy the shortest cable possible to go from point A to point B and run wires right over top of the motor, etc. to save a few bucks. All the setups shown are really clean, w/ wires out of the way of harm, and aesthetically pleasing. Good job, guys.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

Yep pos to pos and neg neg or you can ground to the engine i couldn't find a good ground so i went neg to neg


----------



## Hambrick & Co.

PLOWMAN45;663510 said:


> Yep pos to pos and neg neg or you can ground to the engine i couldn't find a good ground so i went neg to neg


Excellent Thanks. Seems like it should be an easy job unless I am missing some thing.


----------



## B&B

Two ground cables is the better route. One from battery to battery ,and an additional one from the aux battery to the engine.

Upgrading the stock ground cable between the main battery and the engine is also a wise move.


----------



## Detroitdan

I'd have to look to be sure, but I don't think my factory setup is pos-pos, neg-neg. I think you only need to tie the pos together, each battery ground goes to ground, not to each other. But it might not be a bad idea, just probably not necessary.


----------



## B&B

Detroitdan;663630 said:


> I'd have to look to be sure, but I don't think my factory setup is pos-pos, neg-neg. I think you only need to tie the pos together, each battery ground goes to ground, not to each other. But it might not be a bad idea, just probably not necessary.


The factory setups are far from perfect in a hi demand power application, such as in a plow and/or hi output alternator application. Stock cables are marginal at best in these applications. Same reason the GM's respond well to a charge wire upgrade.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

I use 2/0 gauge wire


----------



## Detroitdan

B&B;663642 said:


> The factory setups are far from perfect in a hi demand power application, such as in a plow and/or hi output alternator application. Stock cables are marginal at best in these applications. Same reason the GM's respond well to a charge wire upgrade.


What's the charge wire, the main power from the alt to the battery? what can I upgrade it with?
Overall I'm pretty happy with mine, but I can beat it down when I'm working it real hard. Never had an issue with charging it back up on my trip to the next job. But I'm always open to upgrades, as long as they actually work, unlike some I have tried.
I do have one little wierd charging problem, every so often my gauge reads low and lights are a little dim until the next time I start the truck. Only happens like every few months then goes away before I can trace it.


----------



## B&B

Correct, the main charging wire that stems off the alternator is what I'm referring to.

4 gage works well and is an excellent (and cheap) upgrade from the small (ie undersized) OEM wire. Lessen's resistance, and will help the current along on its path to that battery.


----------



## Hambrick & Co.

Just to make sure as the last couple of comment through me off. Will I be ok with Neg to Neg with out the secondary cable from the aux batt to the engine block? I am not running a huge amount of acc. but enough where I think a dual batt set up is needed. Pos to Pos neg to neg correct? Then later down the road when its not 20 degrees outside I can upgrade the stock cables and add in the extra aux ground.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

if your gonna run pos to pos and neg to neg you dont need an aux ground 4/0 gauge is fine i use 2


----------



## Detroitdan

I looked at mine today, it appears that each battery has a ground wire going to the engine, but not to each other. Doesn't seem to me it would balance them or do anything special, unless and until one ground wasn't working good.

I'll put the 4 ga charging wire on my list of things to do that might get done someday.


----------



## B&B

PLOWMAN45;664110 said:


> if your gonna run pos to pos and neg to neg you dont need an aux ground


 Only probelem with that is your then depending on the stock undersized ground cable to ground BOTH batteries back to the engine. Isn't the best way to do it. Which is why running them neg to neg AND adding the second ground cable is best.



PLOWMAN45;664110 said:


> 4/0 gauge is fine i use 2


 4/0? 4/0 is over an inch in diameter...and way overkill for a truck application. 4 gage is good, 2 gage is even better...especially with a hi amp alternator.

Perhaps you meant 4 gage...not 4/0.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

i havent had a prob with pos to pos and neg to neg


----------



## B&B

PLOWMAN45;664530 said:


> i havent had a prob with pos to pos and neg to neg


Never said it would cause you an actual problem. Said "it isn't the best way". There is a difference.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

ok so you say you need 2 grounds ?


----------



## B&B

Post #44 :waving:



B&B;663601 said:


> Two ground cables is the better route. One from battery to battery ,and an additional one from the aux battery to the engine.
> 
> Upgrading the stock ground cable between the main battery and the engine is also a wise move.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

B&B;664624 said:


> Post #44 :waving:


yeah people beat these threads to death


----------



## grizzlycj

I called the chevy dealer and was told that the support number is not a valid part number. Could I order these parts from this link and if so which ones will I need?
http://www.gmpartcatalog.com/partlo...9165&callout=3&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0


----------



## streetfrog

Yes its pos to pos and neg to neg. I personally added a wire from neg to the block also and a 4 guage wire from the back of alternator to pos on the second battery. No need to change any wires to sec batt but if you want to then go ahead. if you do then my suggestion is swap just the plow wires.


----------



## Showmestaterida

Will the directions from the streetfrog work for the 98, Obs chevys.


----------



## B&B

Showmestaterida;682937 said:


> Will the directions from the streetfrog work for the 98, Obs chevys.


Sure does, except for the p/n's of course.


----------



## Showmestaterida

Thanks, Going to give it a shot.


----------



## Showmestaterida

B&B, Have a red top optima know, can I just get one and add it or should I but 2 new ones? Will it affect performance with an older battery and a new one for this application?


----------



## ktraver97ss

Showmestaterida;688082 said:


> B&B, Have a red top optima know, can I just get one and add it or should I but 2 new ones? Will it affect performance with an older battery and a new one for this application?


Im about to do this to my truck and I plan on keeping my current battery, and just adding a new one. I would also like to know if there are any problems with doing this. I read on another forum that it is better to get 2 new, but a reason was not given.


----------



## ChevKid03

ktraver97ss;688445 said:


> Im about to do this to my truck and I plan on keeping my current battery, and just adding a new one. I would also like to know if there are any problems with doing this. I read on another forum that it is better to get 2 new, but a reason was not given.


I believe that B&B answered this question early in this post or on another post... It probably would be fine, but one battery may go before the other, vice versa... If you get two new ones.... they should BOTH last a while.


----------



## B&B

B&B;586760 said:


> Yes you want the batterys to be as exact as they can be...same size, same specs, and same age in order to get the most life and performance out of them, as well as the alternator.





ChevKid03;688468 said:


> I believe that B&B answered this question early in this post or on another post... It probably would be fine, but one battery may go before the other, vice versa... If you get two new ones.... they should BOTH last a while.


Correct Chev...already covered. :waving:


----------



## Northman

Right or wrong, this works for me on a 89 K1500, 2 pics.

Both batts in pic

2nd batt


----------



## Lencodude

Great sticky and thanks for the info on the parts list. I am going to add an extra battery on my 2002 Gmc 2500.


----------



## daredevil1

I cannot find a battery terminal (gold plated or other) that accepts (2) 2 Gauge wires. If you follow the original post you would need one that takes (2) 2 gauge wires, and one that takes at least (1) 2 gauge wire and (1) 4 gauge wire.


----------



## Lencodude

daredevil1
try a stereo store for the part or a place that installs stereo's.


----------



## Detroitdan

*charging wire*

Sorry if this has already been covered, haven't got time to read all 70 posts.

I have read a couple times about upgrading the charge wire from the alt to the battery, thought it sounded good and put it on my list of things to do someday. Then I just read elsewhere that the charge wire is supposed to be a fusible link, and should be replaced as such, or upgraded with a bigger one or with an inline fuse. I always thought it was just regular wire. One of the posters there is a stereo installer/electrical guru and seems to know of what he speaks, and he insists using regular wire for the charging wire is a very bad idea.

Any thoughts?


----------



## RepoMan207

daredevil1;713027 said:


> I cannot find a battery terminal (gold plated or other) that accepts (2) 2 Gauge wires. If you follow the original post you would need one that takes (2) 2 gauge wires, and one that takes at least (1) 2 gauge wire and (1) 4 gauge wire.


Napa has some on hand in my area, yours should be able to get you one.


----------



## daredevil1

Detroitdan;717034 said:


> Sorry if this has already been covered, haven't got time to read all 70 posts.
> 
> I have read a couple times about upgrading the charge wire from the alt to the battery, thought it sounded good and put it on my list of things to do someday. Then I just read elsewhere that the charge wire is supposed to be a fusible link, and should be replaced as such, or upgraded with a bigger one or with an inline fuse. I always thought it was just regular wire. One of the posters there is a stereo installer/electrical guru and seems to know of what he speaks, and he insists using regular wire for the charging wire is a very bad idea.
> 
> Any thoughts?


What do you mean by regular wire?


----------



## B&B

Trucks weren't equipped with fusables in the charging wire for years and years but if it gives you peace of mind go ahead an add an inline Maxi fuse holder rated about 50 amps higher than your alternators max rated output. Won't hurt...


----------



## ghlkal

B&B;717546 said:


> go ahead an add an inline Maxi fuse holder rated about 50 amps higher than your alternators max rated output.


I agree. I don't recall seeing a maxi with small gauge connectors (4 or 6) ... do they make one?

Or, are there any circuit breakers that could work in this application?


----------



## daredevil1

ghlkal;718363 said:


> I agree. I don't recall seeing a maxi with small gauge connectors (4 or 6) ... do they make one?
> 
> Or, are there any circuit breakers that could work in this application?


http://www.beachaudio.com//05fhm-p-...aign=05fhm&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=froogle#

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8287677&type=product&id=1173577697938

http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-05FHMA-4-Gauge-Maxi-Holder/dp/B001EQL83C


----------



## daredevil1

I just read the following here about not needing a fuse: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-502.html

"Your concept of having a 160 amp alternator and needing a 160 amp fuse is all wrong.

Alternator is rated at 160 amps at full load which means you have to have everything on at the same time and working for it to even reach 140 amps tops.

As for the fusiblelink wire I left mine alone, {I have a 200 amp alt.}, what you do wanna upgrade is your battery cables, you have 4 or 6 gauge wire right now, probably. The lower the #, the thicker the wire. If I was you what I would do is go and upgrade your battery cables to atleast 2 gauge wire, again I have 2/0 which is even thicker.

The other wire your gonna want to upgrade is your battery wire going to the alternator itself, I believ its a 12 gauge wire, cant remember at this time of the night, sorry.

Now if that wire {the one on the back of the alternator attached with a nut} is 12 gauge, then change it to 10 gauge, if its 10 gauge which I now believe it is, change it to 8 gauge wire and leave the fusible links alone, unless they are bad.

If you need more help feel free to E-Mail or PM me anytime and I will try to answer your questions.

The reason I have a 200 amp alternator is because of all the lights and dual electric fans, and I went with the bigger wire because of the dual batteries."


----------



## Detroitdan

daredevil1;721044 said:


> I just read the following here about not needing a fuse: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-502.html
> 
> "Your concept of having a 160 amp alternator and needing a 160 amp fuse is all wrong.
> 
> Alternator is rated at 160 amps at full load which means you have to have everything on at the same time and working for it to even reach 140 amps tops.
> 
> As for the fusiblelink wire I left mine alone, {I have a 200 amp alt.}, what you do wanna upgrade is your battery cables, you have 4 or 6 gauge wire right now, probably. The lower the #, the thicker the wire. If I was you what I would do is go and upgrade your battery cables to atleast 2 gauge wire, again I have 2/0 which is even thicker.
> 
> The other wire your gonna want to upgrade is your battery wire going to the alternator itself, I believ its a 12 gauge wire, cant remember at this time of the night, sorry.
> that's what I was talking about when I said alternator charge wire
> Now if that wire {the one on the back of the alternator attached with a nut} is 12 gauge, then change it to 10 gauge, if its 10 gauge which I now believe it is, change it to 8 gauge wire and leave the fusible links alone, unless they are bad.
> I'm being told that IS a fusible link
> If you need more help feel free to E-Mail or PM me anytime and I will try to answer your questions.
> 
> The reason I have a 200 amp alternator is because of all the lights and dual electric fans, and I went with the bigger wire because of the dual batteries."I tried a high output alternator years ago, powermaster 150 amp or something, what I found out was it put out much less at idle, only puts out more when at high rpm.


All I want to do is make the alt charge the dual batteries when I'm working it hard plowing. it works fine the rest of the time, just cant keep up when I'm hard on it


----------



## daredevil1

Detroitdan;721629 said:


> All I want to do is make the alt charge the dual batteries when I'm working it hard plowing. it works fine the rest of the time, just cant keep up when I'm hard on it


That's a copy and paste from another forum. It's a response to something else. I'm just trying to show that the person says you don't need to add a fuse.


----------



## Detroitdan

B&B;663845 said:


> Correct, the main charging wire that stems off the alternator is what I'm referring to.
> 
> 4 gage works well and is an excellent (and cheap) upgrade from the small (ie undersized) OEM wire. Lessen's resistance, and will help the current along on its path to that battery.


Put on a 4 gauge yesterday. Plowed for about 8 hours, then my plow quit working. Shortly thereafter the truck puked and died, both batteries dead. I'm really hoping I didn't murder the alternator. It's only about 3 years old I think.


----------



## B&B

Coincidence or installer error.


----------



## Detroitdan

B&B;735108 said:


> Coincidence or installer error.


I think both ends were tight, good connections, and no rubbing or interference with anything. I did notice the wire seemed quite soft. Be going to take a look at it a little later. I'm hoping this is all that is wrong, because I thought I lost something in the plow harness, I had no plow function from the box, but I could still lift it from the switch out front. And the truck was running, lights all seemed bright at first.


----------



## Detroitdan

well, the terminal that I connected the new wire to was a little questionable upon closer inspection. I think the wire I put on was good, but it wasn't going through that terminal to the battery very good. Worked fine before I 'fixed' it, so maybe I inadvertantly pulled or tweaked on the battery cable end while attaching it. So, again replaced battery cable terminals, changed the end of the new wire to a crimped-on copper ring instead of the end it came with. Both batteries were still good, charged back up and tested ok, and the alternator is putting out right. I think the bad connection was causing voltage spikes, becuase I had a couple of mini-fuses blown for the gauges and 4wd indicator.
So, I'm back in business. Only cost me about $20 to fix, but I lost about $300 in plowing and sanding I had to sub out, plus a tow bill. In a perfect world I could have fixed the connections on the side of the road, but I checked them by hand in the dark and they felt tight.
It does seem to charge a little bit better than it did with the ancient factory 10 gauge fusible link wire. Not a tremendous amount better, but it's noticeable. A worthwhile upgrade as long as you do it right the first time. I did it outside at night in 0 degree weather with a droplight, which is not exactly conducive to good results.


----------



## larold83

dose any one have pics of the 80's model chevy trucks with dual batts would like to see how and were ya goten located


----------



## twinman326

Her is the link streetfrog was talking about
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i256_battery-terminals.html


----------



## crazywelder72

*deep cycle or normal cranking*

what should be the type of battery for the second battery? deep cycle or normal cranking? i have heard that a deep cycle is better for running electronics if the engine is off and since this isnt the case whats the deal?

i have a 99 silverado 1500 and this season for the first time i was in a spot that took alot of up/down-right-left with the blade with out alot of recovery time in between (i was stuck and pissed) and i was actually able to compleatly stall out the truck by because of the electrical drain. needed a jump afterwards to get her going again. Heater was running, hazards, radio, headlamps, ect....


----------



## B&B

You want the batteries to be the exact same type, size, and preferable age to get the most out of them. And also the highest rated AH you can find.


----------



## RichG53

Do some measuring ... Those bid amp batteries get kind of big and might not fit... I had a 1000 amp battery that was to tall to use as an extra so I had to buy two different ones...Just some help . !!!


----------



## bru z71

i have a 2005 silverado z71 1500 i was thinking about putting a dual battery kit and a dual alternater kit in.


----------



## MKC

*Dual batteries*

Thanks B&B, you guys are great.

MKC


----------



## overtime

I just installed my dual batteries tonight. I will post pictures up maybe this weekend. When I started truck both batteries had 14.64 so I was happy. I put my lights on (beacon and my added reverse light with truck in gear). My battery gauge in truck went down to around 12. Is my alt bad that's what I was thinking its still the org as I have not replaced it and bu looks would say. its 105 amp can I put the 130 or 145 what ever option it is with out doing anything. Just wondering ill do more checking my self on my lunch tom. Or when I can. The truck is a 2000 half ton 5.3 if ya need to know. Also truck gauge(battery) has been kindof bouncy at times before the install when I go to stop lights goes down a bit


----------



## TLB

overtime;859854 said:


> I just installed my dual batteries tonight. I will post pictures up maybe this weekend.


Have ya had time to open the hood and take some pic's ?


----------



## overtime

I have but my computer is having problems uploading. Hope ill get them soon.


----------



## overtime

Ok here we go hope these work. I Went over the bulk head and not going by the air box> i liked the looks of that way the other. the the batteries are both 787yrdt's got them at cost along with evertything else cost me i think around 140 to 160


----------



## RichG53

On the positive post on the drivers side why didn't you use the side terminal for your plow hook up????
There is less chance of a short if you have to jump start some thing ...
The top post is very close to the body fender I bought a post cover to protect it...


----------



## overtime

With having the plow wires and stuff I could go to it. When I jump I use a power pack or the + and - by the altenator the pack there also I do have a cover and I have rubber (stuff you use for your door lip). On the fender and a cover also just not pictured.


----------



## larold83

how do you like ur kn intake


----------



## overtime

I like it when I was in school I dynoed it and lost 1 horse but gained 13 torque. Called company and got refund but got to keep it. I do get better fuel by like 3 myabe 4 in winder and 2 in summer


----------



## larold83

i was thinking of getting one for my 02 burban with the k&n and dual exhaust i should see pretty decent number i rather have the torque but hp is good also thanks


----------



## overtime

When I had one on a 95 k1500 it didn't do nothin and it had duals. 4o not sure.


----------



## Thermos017

*charging problem*

i have a question about this topic. i doubt any of you have ever ran into this problem, but i cant track it down. It is a 1997 k1500. the dual battery setup was wired in by yours truly. i have a 105/113A alternator running through a 120A battery isolator. the primary battery usually charges at around 13.5v while the aux. battery runs about 14.5-15v.

this system worked flawlessly for over a year, then one day the gage fuse blew and the main battery died (not while plowing). after replacing the fuse it charged fine for about 3 weeks, then the fuse blew again. after disconnecting several items and continuing to blow fuses i decided to quit. i hooked everything back up, disconnected my jumper cables, and tried one last time for giggles. the truck fired right up, and hasn't blown a fuse since. now the problem is, the alternator only charges when and after the truck is put in reverse. after putting it in reverse it continues to charge indefinitely until the truck is shut off. after starting it has to be put immediately into reverse again, or the alternator won't charge.

i have tried a new alternator (because napa's tester broke) with the same results. i have checked voltage at the signal wire and it seems to be getting juice before the truck is shifted into reverse, so why wouldn't it charge? i have also tested the isolator, and as far as i can see it is operating properly. also, before you ask, i checked the voltage at the main and aux battery, as well as the back of the alternator. the alt simply isn't operating at all until the truck shifts into reverse. if i quickly shift past reverse into drive it doesn't start charging. is there any tie at all in the wiring between the neutral safety/backup switch and the igniter signal wire to the alternator? or am i going to be tearing the dash out and tracing wires for the next week? the only simple test i haven't tried yet is a jumper directly from the battery to the igniter signal post of the alternator. if/when i do that test i'll post the results here.

i realize this is an oddball issue, i'm just hoping someone has ran into it before and can give me a quick answer without having to dive into the harness. also FYI, this issue seems to have absolutely nothing to do with the plow system at all. it did coincidentally happen right after my "slick stick" failed. that is repaired and operating properly now so i'm confident they are unrelated issues. just lousy luck


----------



## B&B

That's a very very odd one indeed and not something that may be simple to diagnose via the internet. But a couple things to try and then check back here....

Pull the turn/BU lamp fuse and see if it still begins to change after the shifter is placed in reverse.

Since the isolator is an add on what do you have the trigger wire connected to?


Oh, and DO NOT run a 12V jumper wire directly to the alternator exciter wire. That wire has to have at least 400 OHM's of resistance. Running full battery voltage to it WILL fry the alternator.

Start a new thread also, no need to clutter up this one.


----------



## Thermos017

B&B;908990 said:


> ...Start a new thread also, no need to clutter up this one.


thanks... here is the link to the new thread:

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=93546


----------



## Thermos017

*97 Silverado Dual Battery Setup*

This is my bosses 1997 k1500 silverado. i know, a half ton has no business running a plow. But, you'd be surprised how much abuse this rig takes and keeps on running like a champ. even with 230K on the odometer it still runs strong and plows quite nice. anywho, on to the wiring pics.

this truck came factory with single battery. i believe it was supposed to have a 100amp alternator factory, but when i started the work on the truck it was sporting a 80A (the bosses previous mechanics were not the brightest). After plowing for part of a season it was obvious the charging system was not going to cut it for the plow. on the colder days (below 0F) the plow created so much of a load that it would bog the truck and dim the lights just angling the plow. Lifting the plow would kill the truck completely, unless you lifted about 6inches, wait to charge, lift again... after one night of killing the truck several times i decided to upgrade to a dual battery setup.

The original setup was with the 120A isolator splitting to one napa battery and one schwabbs battery. and yes, it's perfectly ok to mix batteries, IF YOU ARE USING AN ISOLATER. 









The original setup had the main battery charging 13.6V, while the Aux Battery was charging at 14.4V. I had used 8G wire from the alternator to the isolator, moved the factory charge wire for the main battery to the isolater, and ran an 8G charge wire from the isolater to the Aux battery. There was still a voltage drop on the main battery (to around 12.5v) when operating the plow, but the truck wasn't dieing every time i lifted the plow in sub zero temps.









Even with the upgraded charging system there appeared to be a problem with the headlights being too dim, especially when operating the plow. the problem was the way the lights were wired up to the truck/plow light selector switch. the factory wiring was 18g, and the harness was spliced near the headlights. there was 20g wiring(i don't even know where to buy wire that small!!!) ran from the front of the truck just behind the headlights, back into the cab, and back up to the headlights. That's about 14 feet of extra wire for each circuit. I'm sure there is a more efficient way of solving the problem, but my solution was a series of relays that drew it's supply for the lights from the AUX post on the under hood fuse box. the relays are all operated by the factory headlight wiring. Using relays also allowed me to cut the number of wires going back into the cab from 6 to 1. of course the headlights still dimmed a little when raising the plow, but they were deffinately brighter than before.









To answer the question of how to ground the Aux battery: the best bet is a double ground, just the way the factory battery is set up. There is a logic for this. For charging purposes, you want the shortest loop possible between your alternator and battery, for both charge leads and grounds. running your ground to the block will ensure that your factory ground strap from the block to the chasis (wich is very small in most cases) isn't overworked while charging your auxillary battery. For the same reason, you should ALSO use a ground to chasis. Running a ground to the chasis will create a better grounding connection for your accessories running on the aux battery. using only a block ground will require your accessories to ground through that same factory chasis to block ground strap mentioned above. for that reason i have used a 4g ground to the block, and a 1" ground strap to the chasis.


----------



## Thermos017

*Dual Battery Setup continued*










The Isolater i purchased was a little bulky, but workign for an HVAC shop i have access to all the tools and supplies i need to build mounting brackets. it may not be the prettiest thing in the world, but it is incredibly solid and fits quite nice. my only complaint is that it's a pain to remove everything should a water pump or p/s pump go out. 









The next picture is not completely current, as i took it mid way through replacing battery cables and upgrading the charge leads. I decided to upgrade the charge leads because of the previously metioned difference between battery voltages while charging. I went with a 2g lead from the alternator to the isolator. from there i ran a 4g lead to the main battery, and left the 8g charge lead from the isolater to the auxillary battery in place. it was working well enough before, so i figure i'll wait to upgrade it untill accessory draw warrents the extra work. These upgrades, along with a 105/113A alternator have cured ALL of my charging woes.









During my first season plowing i added a set of fog lights to the back of the truck. This was before the auxillary battery was added, so they were wired to the main battery. Somehow i overlooked the rewiring of these when i added the second battery, so every time someone else used the truck i was getting a call to come jump start it. apparently its very difficult to remember to shut lights off when you are done using a vehicle. After rewiring this to the aux battery, i was getting complaints of that battery being dead, because again, they were leaving the lights on. finally i decided to add a relay and fuse block to the accessories, so the accessory feed from the aux battery would be shut off when the truck is shut off.


----------



## RichG53

GEE !!! Was it necessary to do all than ???? Seems like an over kill...
With all the relays...


----------



## Thermos017

*Dual Battery Setup continued*

EDIT: @RichG53. see my next post for your answer. i was just finnishing this post when you made your comment.

When i added the relay, i installed a fuse panel on the heater box under the dash. I rewired all of the accessories to run through this fuse panel. I also wired the plow controls through the switched fuse panel, because this truck is used by several people, many who have children. i didn't want the plow operable without the key on, because lets face it, some people can't control their children, and most children don't think before they act. I initially got complaints about it, but after explaining that it was a safety issue the boss and coworkers agree that it's necessary. personally, i don't know why the plow control was originally wired to constant power, or why my coworkers felt it was necessary to operate the plow while the truck was off.









I realise this is starting to get off topic, but it's almost over! After wiring up the fuse box i decided to change the wiring to the accessories. originally the rear fog lights were operated by a switch near the truck/plow headlight selector, and the strobe was just plugged in to the cigarette lighter. It was too easy to forget to shut the lights off between jobs, and drive down the highway with the rear lights still on. also, i was sick of replacing the lighter plug end on the strobe light, because everyone was pulling on the wires, rather than the plug itself, to shut the strobe off. My solution was to add switches next to the plow control, with LED lights under the switch to indicate the light was on. the second switch was wired to an aftermarket cigarette lighter that i mounted behind the rear seat, between the back wall of the cab and the jack box. That socket is where the strobe plugs in. I didn't wire the strobe permanantly for two reasons. one, it was my strobe, not the bosses. and two, the boss didn't want the strobe left installed year round. The coffee stains you see in this photo are optional. the accessories will still work without that. 









I added a volt meter to the left of the slick stick to keep an eye on how the aux battery was charging. Also, the paint started chipping off of my custom bracket after i removed the slick stick for repairs. I looked for brackets online before i made my own, and i have to say the prices of some are rediculous. I'll continue repainting my home-made one until it is a pile of rust on the carpet! I do need to move this whole assembly though. I'm not sure you can tell from the pic, but that panel is located to the right of the steering column just below the heater controls. I've had a few complaints about people bumping the slick stick and accidentally dropping the plow while driving down the road, after changing a setting on the heater. I may just add a kill switch to the power for the plow controls, so that you have to turn the switch on before the slick stick will operate. It should work as long as people turn the switch off when they aren't plowing.









As i mentioned before, i recently replaced some battery cables and installed new, larger charge wires from the isolater to the main battery, and the alternator to isolater. I am very pleased with the results. I now have a charge of 14.3 V to BOTH batteries, as opposed to the large variation between batteries before. also, i tested the system under heavy load and the voltage barely dropped at all. with headlights on high beam, heater fan on max, rear fog lights and strobe on, stereo cranked, and cell charger plugged in the batteries maintain a charge of 14.1V. Even with all that, i can lift the plow and the charge never drops below 13.9v whether at an idle or 2grand. My only concern is that the alternator may give out pre-maturely, but there will be no replacement cost, as we purchased the lifetime warranty alternator at napa. although some may refuse to warranty because of the way it is being used, we do so much business through our local napa that they never question a warrenty exchange.


----------



## Thermos017

RichG53;913534 said:


> GEE !!! Was it necessary to do all than ???? Seems like an over kill...
> With all the relays...


you are probably right. but i'd rather go overkill and be able to see where i'm going, than to use crap wire to run all the way into the cab and back, creating a voltage drop that drastically effects the brightness of the headlights. GM's factory wiring for headlights on a 1/2 ton is designed for one purpose, and was never intended to be rewired for plow lights. adding 14 feet of wire just for a switch creates a considerable voltage drop at the headlights. i was initially concerned with how well the relays would hold up, but after 2 seasons they are doing great. And as far as the number of relays, that is the least i could use for the way i wired it. you can see the labels in the pic, but i'll describe why so many were needed.

first relay (far right) switches the auxillary power from the under hood fuse box. I opted to use the auxillary post of the fuse box to provide a good strong current to power the headlights. the relay is operated through two diodes from the factory wiring. one for high and one for low beam, so any time the headlights are supposed to be on the relay engages.

next is the relay that selects plow lights or truck lights. this is operated by a switch under the dash that is powered from a keyed circuit in the interior fuse panel. the relay engages to operate the plow lights, and the truck lights operate when the relay is off. by doing this i only require 1 wire from the cab to the engine compartment, as opposed to the previous 6.

after that is the two high/low beam relays. one for the plow lights, and one for the truck lights.

right now the wiring is set up so the relays are engaged for the least possible amount of time, in the interest of longer relay life. i.e. the low beams are used more, so that relay only energizes for high beams. also, the truck sees more miles without the plow attatched, so the truck lights are operated when that relay is off, and plow lights operate when that particular relay is energized.

i could change the setup to get rid of one relay by getting a more complex relay for the truck/plow selecter (one that could handle 2 circuits, one for high and one for low beam), and run the power through the high/low relay first. however, the relay would cost much more, and should the relay fail i would have to replace it with the same style (wich would require ordering one at napa, not normally stocked). the way it is wired now if one fails i can replace it with it's unused counterparts (there is always at least one not in use), and get the truck safely back to the shop. since about 85% of our plowing is done at night, it isn't feasable to think you can just call for a ride to the local parts store if a failure occurs while plowing, and it's definately not ok to have a plow truck down for 2 days waiting on a relay during winter months.


----------



## cameo89

stupid question? so two 12v batterys will still support 12v? or dumb q: will it turn to 24v? sorry if this is stupid but just wanna make sure. Thanks


----------



## Mister Plow

cameo89;932988 said:


> stupid question? so two 12v batterys will still support 12v? or dumb q: will it turn to 24v? sorry if this is stupid but just wanna make sure. Thanks


2 twelve volt batteries wired in parallel will give 12 volts
2 twelve volt batteries wired in series will give 24 volts.

It's all in the wiring.

Some trucks use 24 volt systems. (Military for example) They have batteries wired in series.


----------



## jroptop

Ok,now IM gonna need some advice here after reading the posts on a dual battery hookup! I have a 2002 2500hd 8.1 that I hooked up a secondary battery last year to help with powering my ez v mm2 plow.Everything works fine,I think,but my question is,EVEN with the dual battery hook up,why does my amp gauge drop to between 9-11 volts when I meneuver the plow with my fishstick controller?When I do so,the alt amps drop and lights go dim,is this the way its supposed to be with these motor driven plows,or could I try something different to enhance the speed of the plow and not have the lights dim,or gauge drop that much,ONLY when the plow is hooked up,other than that,I dont have any dimming issues with the truck itsself,also,it seems it doesnt get enough juice when I have the plow against a snow bank and hit the up button to raise the plow up?thanks for your help in advance!


----------



## bersh

Just got done with my dual install and it went pretty well overall, but I do have a couple questions. I decided to run the 2 awg welding wire from battery to battery along the firewall. There are a number of threaded studs sticking out of the firewall on my 2004 2500HD, so I bought a few of those rubber insulated straps to use those studs to support the wire. For the life of me I can't find anything that will thread onto them. I ended up just using self drilling screws, which drove me nuts considering there were studs right there in front of me.

In all the poking around, I've decided to upgrade my pos. wire from the battery to the solenoid, so I won't know for sure how much of an improvement there is over the single battery setup until tomorrow when I get right terminals to build a new wire. The stock wire is shot though as both terminals are somewhat loose and there is a lot of corrosion, so it's time.


----------



## Thermos017

@ JROPTOP:

did you upgrade your charge wire between the alternator and battery as was suggested in this thread? also, check all of your grounds. may want to upgrade those too. if those are good you may consider a higher output alternator. i assume the 8.1 had a good alternator, but you know what they say about assuming.


----------



## jroptop

Thermos017;951026 said:


> @ JROPTOP:
> 
> did you upgrade your charge wire between the alternator and battery as was suggested in this thread? also, check all of your grounds. may want to upgrade those too. if those are good you may consider a higher output alternator. i assume the 8.1 had a good alternator, but you know what they say about assuming.


thanks for the response back,I did upgrade the charge wire as mentioned in an earlier thread,what I will do today is check the grounds along with using jumper cables to hook to the battery ground and plow motor ground and see where that gets me,thanks again!


----------



## Watkins

Hey there peoples, I wanted to add my input on this, I have tried many ways for many years, this is the only option to achieve 100% energy transfer and efficient charging during 32 hours of plowing.


The heart of your system that generates the energy for your beast must be high output and be reliable, with this I have found that using the existing small case in stock chevy's from 88-2004 they can only produce a nominal 150-160 amps and retain there reliability.
I had an alternator built to 183 amps 2x and it was not reliable both times, I do add a smaller pulley to the alternator to retain higher rotation during idles to keep charging better.
When I used an alternator on the older trucks with larger case ( and changed the pulley wheel to a smaller ) from a 1979 pickup I was able to obtain 238 amps and be reliable, the highest I was able to get from a large case was 254 amps ( tested cold )but it was not reliable as the rectifier seems to fail, in all applications you need to use a steel fan to keep these cool, the plastic fans seem to break or explode during use which caused the alternator to fail.
During use, your alternator usually loses about 10% efficiency

 Use 2 dual post batteries of same type, brand and size to maintain equal energy to each battery, I like to goto the scrap yards and pull a passenger/driver side ( side needed ) from another truck when one is not quickly available from dealer/merchant, I call the scrap yard for them to take the side I need off the truck, ( usually same day available for 15$ ) when used from scrap yard I sand blast or just coat it with a good paint.

Use 1 or 2 gauge wire and if you use a chevy remove the charging line from the alternator to the starter ( this may not apply to brand new trucks as there may be computer issues in trucks after 2004 but not sure 50/50 chance ) These lines always get corrosion imo and cannot feed the truck battery enough energy during prolonged use.

Run 2 #1 or #2 gauge wires to each battery direct from alternator.

Run 1 Ground to Ground on each battery using #1 or #2 dc cables ( more strands of line in the cable the more energy transfer faster )

Run #1 or #2 gauge wires from ground to ground ( top post side ) on each battery

Accessory battery not connected to your starter and firewall Attach the side post ground to the frame and body of truck with #1 or #2 gauge wire

Complete the circle, ground to your alternator bracket, truck Frame and Body.

Power to power grounds to grounds and you should be set.
Crimped lines are best, In 12 years I never needed to maintenance on the crimped lines, make sure to apply your favorite corrosion deterrent to the posts.

*I've tried more battery's ( 4 ) with little effect on the longgevity, the alternator must replace the used energy at the rate it's being used.*

Good luck, have fun and happy plowing I hope this cures your power needs wesport


----------



## golfmanres

Just to get things straight. My truck A k2500 1998 8600 gvw 5.7 came with dual batteries. Since i got it (2nd owner) the second battery never worked. The second battery is on the drvier side and the positve goes to a relay that looks like the brown ones used by meyers. This for some reason is not working. I have tested the wiring and never got anyhting. Should I just eliminate it and run a wire from the positive on the main battery to the positive on the secondary and also jump the negatives?

Recommendations?


----------



## Watkins

golfmanres;992439 said:


> Just to get things straight. My truck A k2500 1998 8600 gvw 5.7 came with dual batteries. Since i got it (2nd owner) the second battery never worked. The second battery is on the drvier side and the positve goes to a relay that looks like the brown ones used by meyers. This for some reason is not working. I have tested the wiring and never got anyhting. Should I just eliminate it and run a wire from the positive on the main battery to the positive on the secondary and also jump the negatives?
> 
> Recommendations?


Hello golfmanres, In my opinion that method will work however you should always makes sure your accessory battery has a strong clean connection to the frame and engine block.
Also check the ground on your main battery to assure proper conduction and transfer of energy.
Assure that your using a power and ground with many strands and a good gauge, no smaller then 4 gauge depending on your power requirements.
If you just jump - to - and + to + from one side to the other it may work, but it sounds like more of a partial resolution.
Make sure both batteries are connected to the alternator, 4 gauge may be heavy enough wire for most applications.

Never forget to Invest in a battery terminal remover tool, and never screw your terminals back and forth or use a screwdriver to pry them off as this can cause hairline cracks in your battery case or scar your battery posts.
Treat your battery posts with halogenated hydrocarbon and mineral oil to remove corrosion and scale build-up.
Never forget your Di-Electric Grease after install and routine maintenance.


----------



## jlord85

*Alternator Replacement*

Just a curious question.  I am going to install the 2nd battery before winter. I am also upgrading my stereo system to include a coupld of amps and lots of speakers. I was wondering if I should upgrade my alternator to a 200amp or 225 to help power both batteries and all of the plow, strobe, and stereo system. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## B&B

A big fancy stereo system is just an unnecessary demand in a plow truck thats already power hungry to begin with. If you must have it at least keep it (and any other unnecessary power hungry components) turned off while plowing. Will make everything work better and last longer.

Run as much alternator as you can afford. Better yet forget the tunes and use the money to upgrade the charging system. The fanciest stereo in the world won't do you any good when it's 3 degrees, dark, the volt gauge is hanging low and you're depending on the trucks electrical to get you and the plow through the storm while the alternators working it's guts out to keep up with the demand.


----------



## basher

Do everything you talked about except the stereo add the dual batteries, high amp alternator, plus upgrade the wire size coming off your alternators to at least #4. Spend the money you save on a set of BOSE or other manufacturer's set of GOOD noise canceling earbuds for your Ipod and crank um up. Then you won't wake your customers and your plow and truck will have the power they need.


----------



## RichG53

Watkins;985239 said:


> Hey there peoples, I wanted to add my input on this, I have tried many ways for many years, this is the only option to achieve 100% energy transfer and efficient charging during 32 hours of plowing.
> 
> 
> The heart of your system that generates the energy for your beast must be high output and be reliable, with this I have found that using the existing small case in stock chevy's from 88-2004 they can only produce a nominal 150-160 amps and retain there reliability.
> I had an alternator built to 183 amps 2x and it was not reliable both times, I do add a smaller pulley to the alternator to retain higher rotation during idles to keep charging better.
> When I used an alternator on the older trucks with larger case ( and changed the pulley wheel to a smaller ) from a 1979 pickup I was able to obtain 238 amps and be reliable, the highest I was able to get from a large case was 254 amps ( tested cold )but it was not reliable as the rectifier seems to fail, in all applications you need to use a steel fan to keep these cool, the plastic fans seem to break or explode during use which caused the alternator to fail.
> During use, your alternator usually loses about 10% efficiency
> 
> Use 2 dual post batteries of same type, brand and size to maintain equal energy to each battery, I like to goto the scrap yards and pull a passenger/driver side ( side needed ) from another truck when one is not quickly available from dealer/merchant, I call the scrap yard for them to take the side I need off the truck, ( usually same day available for 15$ ) when used from scrap yard I sand blast or just coat it with a good paint.
> 
> Use 1 or 2 gauge wire and if you use a chevy remove the charging line from the alternator to the starter ( this may not apply to brand new trucks as there may be computer issues in trucks after 2004 but not sure 50/50 chance ) These lines always get corrosion imo and cannot feed the truck battery enough energy during prolonged use.
> 
> Run 2 #1 or #2 gauge wires to each battery direct from alternator.
> 
> Run 1 Ground to Ground on each battery using #1 or #2 dc cables ( more strands of line in the cable the more energy transfer faster )
> 
> Run #1 or #2 gauge wires from ground to ground ( top post side ) on each battery
> 
> Accessory battery not connected to your starter and firewall Attach the side post ground to the frame and body of truck with #1 or #2 gauge wire
> 
> Complete the circle, ground to your alternator bracket, truck Frame and Body.
> 
> Power to power grounds to grounds and you should be set.
> Crimped lines are best, In 12 years I never needed to maintenance on the crimped lines, make sure to apply your favorite corrosion deterrent to the posts.
> 
> *I've tried more battery's ( 4 ) with little effect on the longgevity, the alternator must replace the used energy at the rate it's being used.*
> 
> Good luck, have fun and happy plowing I hope this cures your power needs wesport


 So now I read that the plow wires should be hooked to the aux battery ???
Is this right ???
Mine are hooked to the main...
Explanation please....


----------



## MrPlowNE

Question...On my older trucks I always used a battery isolator...just incase one battery took a dump it didn't kill both...are you using an isolator or directly coming off the altenator to both?


----------



## Sydenstricker Landscaping

Just did my dual battery install today. Did the 2 gauge wiring, 4 gauge from alt to main battery, additional ground from the aux. battery to the engine. No isolator though. The part numbers streetfrog gave on the original page for the 99-06 trucks have been updated. I will share the new numbers with everyone. Mind you again these are for the 99-06 trucks. 

11509853 Screw-only one needed
14005061 Retainer-also only one needed
15246518 Tray

The total for these 3 parts were 40 bucks and the dealer had them in stock. Good luck everyone with your installs. I highly recommend reading this entire section prior to the install. Very simple and easy to do. Not no where near as complicated as one may think!!


----------



## MarkEagleUSA

streetfrog;492688 said:


> 1) Upgrade the charging wire on the back of the alternator to a 4 gage cable as this is a weak link on the GM trucks. Leave the stock one in place but add a second one from the charging stud (where the original wire is on the alternator) directly to the positive on either battery (driver side would be closer).


I've seen some 200+ amp alternators for sale with recommendations to add a _fused_ 4 gauge charging wire, but nothing specific about what size or type of fuse to use. What do the dual battery experts here think about this?


----------



## RichG53

I thought most places that sold the 200 Amp Alternator also sold the fusible link with fuse too....
Can't remember what size it was...I know it was posted in back posts..


----------



## RepoMan207

MarkEagleUSA;1138935 said:


> I've seen some 200+ amp alternators for sale with recommendations to add a _fused_ 4 gauge charging wire, but nothing specific about what size or type of fuse to use. What do the dual battery experts here think about this?


How bizzare....I was just looking for this thread again for some answers myself, in the meantime I was looking over the 200amp alt. on Napa.com. They sell a kit : RAY 1341K  with the upgraded wires and what not.


----------



## RichG53

GEE !!! That thing is pricey !!!!


----------



## RepoMan207

Well yeah....It's Napa after all! I didn't mean go out an buy it though. Just go in and check out what it is or simply call. You can get the components that you need ALOT cheaper then there.


----------



## RepoMan207

I located this while doing my re read of this thread.



B&B;717546 said:


> *.....50 amps higher than your alternators max rated output. Won't hurt...*


----------



## RichG53

I understand that it can be purchased elsewhere......

Just commenting on how pricey they are....


----------



## Jay51

B&B;663642 said:


> The factory setups are far from perfect in a hi demand power application, such as in a plow and/or hi output alternator application. Stock cables are marginal at best in these applications. Same reason the GM's respond well to a charge wire upgrade.


I have a 2003 GMC 2500HD and just put in a new battery the has 800CA and already had a 145amp alternator. Should I upgrade the existing wires (the big 3)? Can explain how to do this exactly? Where to add the wires and what wires to take out or leave in? Will this help with the dimming lights when operating the plow? Thanks.


----------



## B&B

If you're sticking with a single battery and 145 amp alternator the only thing you really need is to increase the size of the charging wire to 4 gauge from the alt to the positive junction box and add an inline 175 amp mega fuse and holder at the same time. 

If you want to also increase the plows efficiently from there increase all the plow power cables to 2 gauge and replace the inadequate under hood solenoid with a good Trombetta solenoid, which will reward you with less resistance therefore less power draw from the plow.

Also be sure both the positive and negative plow cables are attached directly to the battery terminals, no other location is acceptable.


----------



## RichG53

Where do you look for the Trombetta solenoid ???
What makes them better ???
And how much $$$ ??

My plow wires are a factory joined with a matching plug for the truck side...
Do they really need to be upgraded ?? I'm guessing my are 4-6 gauge..

Thanks !!


----------



## B&B

RichG53;1167073 said:


> Where do you look for the Trombetta solenoid ???
> What makes them better ???
> And how much $$$ ??


 Trombetta



RichG53;1167073 said:


> My plow wires are a factory joined with a matching plug for the truck side...
> Do they really need to be upgraded ?? I'm guessing my are 4-6 gauge.Thanks !!


If you want to increase electrical efficiency and prolong the life of the battery, alternator, solenoid and pump motor you should. The OEM cables snowplows are equipped with are anywhere from inadequate at best to just down right dismal. 2 gauge should be the standard minimum size. Easier routing and cost savings are the only reasons they're not.


----------



## RichG53

What do I use for the factory(OEM) ends ???


----------



## Thermos017

6ga, 50A:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740234_0063685698









4ga, 175A:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740235_0063685698









2ga, 350A:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740237_0063685698









1ga, 175A (? their info, not mine):
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740236_0063685698


----------



## Thermos017

weather caps:

fits 740222, 740235:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740242_0293961163









fits 740234, 740220:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740241_0063685421









fits 740223, 740237:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=NW_740243_0063685421


----------



## B&B

Search "Anderson" here and read up. It's been covered many times.


----------



## RichG53

I'm aware of those connectors...
I just thought maybe there was some thing else...
Thanks !!


----------



## Thermos017

is this how it's done? :laughing:


----------



## Contractorjeff

Help please.

I have a 2009 Chevy 2500 that I just got and put in my dual battery and my isolator. When the isolator is hooked up, my truck will not start. Alt shows nothing! Take the isolator off and it works just fine. Is there something in the truck computer that will not let this isolator work??


----------



## RichG53

Why the isolator ???
I heard not a good idea..


----------



## jklawn&Plow

Which isolator are you using? P/N, company


----------



## musclecarboy

B&B...

I have the 2 trucks listed below and both have dual batteries and both have needed new alt's over this winter, upgraded to 145A from stock 105A. My question is.... Is all I need to do it is upgrade the cheapo wire coming off the alt to the + connection box and I'm good to go? Do I need to improve any grounding anywhere?

THanks!


----------



## B&B

If it's in the budget, also upgrade the OEM positive cables between the battery's and connection box, and also the OEM battery to engine ground cables (one for each battery) to 2 gauge. It's a worthwhile upgrade to adding efficiency to the system. If you wish to add more in addition to that, upgrade your plow solenoids using a Trombetta bear solenoid. Your Boss will be no problem but your MVP+ will take a little more work since the Trombetta solenoid is larger and there isn't much working space in the pump cover, but it will fit and will add improved performance and reliability.


----------



## wkahler

Is there anything different about doing this on a 2010? Was going to do it this weekend.


----------



## B&B

wkahler;1302307 said:


> Is there anything different about doing this on a 2010? Was going to do it this weekend.


Be sure to connect the battery's directly to each other. In other words, do not ground the aux battery to anything but the main battery's terminal. If you ground it anywhere else it can cause charging issues.

If you're also planning to upgrade the charging lead from the alternator to the battery be sure not to omit the factory inline 125 AMP (or 175 AMP depending on the truck) fuse that should be at the OEM connection point near the battery. You can change it over to a remote aftermarket style Mega fuse holder but you have to have some type of fuse method. Don't operate without one.


----------



## samjr

*i am lost*



B&B;1302399 said:


> Be sure to connect the battery's directly to each other. In other words, do not ground the aux battery to anything but the main battery's terminal. If you ground it anywhere else it can cause charging issues.
> 
> If you're also planning to upgrade the charging lead from the alternator to the battery be sure not to omit the factory inline 125 AMP (or 175 AMP depending on the truck) fuse that should be at the OEM connection point near the battery. You can change it over to a remote aftermarket style Mega fuse holder but you have to have some type of fuse method. Don't operate without one.


Is this only for the newer trucks b&b? Ground the aux battery to anything but the main battery's terminal


----------



## wkahler

B&B;1302399 said:


> Be sure to connect the battery's directly to each other. In other words, do not ground the aux battery to anything but the main battery's terminal. If you ground it anywhere else it can cause charging issues.
> 
> If you're also planning to upgrade the charging lead from the alternator to the battery be sure not to omit the factory inline 125 AMP (or 175 AMP depending on the truck) fuse that should be at the OEM connection point near the battery. You can change it over to a remote aftermarket style Mega fuse holder but you have to have some type of fuse method. Don't operate without one.


So don't ground the extra battery to the frame or the block? Also i was going to take off the wire from the alternator to the battery, but i think the fuse is on the battery terminal and should not be take off the battery for any reason from what i can see. If this sounds off let me know but from what i can see it is right there and nothing is "in line" on the wire coming from the alternator.


----------



## B&B

samjr;1302403 said:


> Is this only for the newer trucks b&b? Ground the aux battery to anything but the main battery's terminal


On the older trucks (pre-new body style) it's ok to ground the auxiliary battery to the engine block if you wish. Just be sure the main battery's battery-to-engine block cable and it's connections are good otherwise you don't get all the benefits of having the auxiliary battery.


----------



## samjr

*i got a 04 is that new or old lol*



B&B;1302452 said:


> On the older trucks (pre-new body style) it's ok to ground the auxiliary battery to the engine block if you wish. Just be sure the main battery's battery-to-engine block cable and it's connections are good otherwise you don't get all the benefits of having the auxiliary battery.


I did my install last winter but i only put my ground to my firewall i take it that's no good ?


----------



## B&B

wkahler;1302404 said:


> So don't ground the extra battery to the frame or the block? Also i was going to take off the wire from the alternator to the battery, but i think the fuse is on the battery terminal and should not be take off the battery for any reason from what i can see. If this sounds off let me know but from what i can see it is right there and nothing is "in line" on the wire coming from the alternator.


NEVER run a primary battery ground cable to the frame, always go to the engine first and then if you wish to also upgrade the engine-to-frame ground go ahead and do so from there. Do not go to the frame first.

Yes the OEM charging wire fuse is incorporated in the battery terminal. That's why I mentioned the need while upgrading the charging wire to switch to an aftermarket Mega fuse style fuse holder and remotely locate it near the battery. Then tie your new charging wire into the battery terminal directly.


----------



## B&B

samjr;1302457 said:


> I did my install last winter but i only put my ground to my firewall i take it that's no good ?


Surprised it didn't give you problems. I can't think of a worse place to connect it to create possible but very major electrical issues. Move it asap.


----------



## samjr

*doing it in the am*



B&B;1302462 said:


> Surprised it didn't give you problems. I can't think of a worse place to connect it to create possible but very major electrical issues. Move it asap.


So in my truck go back to the other bat or go to the block and frame ?


----------



## B&B

The engine block is fine.


----------



## samjr

*I thought that*

Last year after i hooked it up i did not see i difference when my plow was hooked up :realmad: 
That's probably Y 
Y is this way so bay too hook up like this B&B ?


----------



## B&B

Not surprised the extra battery didn't help the way it's grounded. With it attached to the body, any load you attempt to draw from the aux battery is now trying to flow through the factory body-to-engine ground on it's way back to the main battery and to the load; basically you created a very very possible damaging ground loop through everything else that's also grounded to the body, such as the body control module and HVAC control module just to touch on the expensive ones. 

I am surprised it hasn't fried the body-to-engine ground strap either though. Obviously you weren't pulling much current from the aux battery otherwise you'd already have serious issues. So consider yourself very very lucky and move your ground to the engine block.


----------



## samjr

*O i am man*



B&B;1302473 said:


> Not surprised the extra battery didn't help the way it's grounded. With it attached to the body, any load you attempt to draw from the aux battery is now trying to flow through the factory body-to-engine ground on it's way back to the main battery and to the load; basically you created a very very possible damaging ground loop through everything else that's also grounded to the body, such as the body control module and HVAC control module just to touch on the expensive ones.
> 
> I am surprised it hasn't fried the body-to-engine ground strap either though. Obviously you weren't pulling much current from the aux battery otherwise you'd already have serious issues. So consider yourself very very lucky and move your ground to the engine block.


I am doing that ASAP man ty for your info agion=-) So can i put it to where the oil dipstick bolts onto the block


----------



## B&B

Yes that's an acceptable location just be sure to place the dipstick tube mounting bracket on top of your cable lug, not under it between the lug and cylinder head. Obviously be sure the cylinder head surface is clean as well.


----------



## wkahler

OK so would u suggest fusing the new battery and also fusing the old one with a new 175 amp fuse? Grounding it to the motor would make it alot easier since the battery is shoved back in this little corner and sucks to get the negative side of the battery!


----------



## RichG53

I have been reading this and I'm a little confused...From other postings...
I have my two bats connected Pos to pos..Neg to neg. all 2 gauge.. Main is factory connected...
Alt wire updated.4 gauge..
My Aux bat. grnds.,one to engine 4 gauge, one to body 10 gauge and one to frame 6 gauge..
Will this work or is it ok ????
Should any thing be changed or added??
Thanks 
Rich..


----------



## B&B

wkahler;1302492 said:


> OK so would u suggest fusing the new battery and also fusing the old one with a new 175 amp fuse? Grounding it to the motor would make it alot easier since the battery is shoved back in this little corner and sucks to get the negative side of the battery!


If you connect the battery's directly together you don't have to fuse the second battery's positive cable as it (the new battery) will be on the fused side of the OEM battery, thus isolated from the truck if the fuse blows.

I realize it's not as easy but you do need to run the aux battery ground cable to the main battery, not to the engine block. Otherwise the new ground can interfere with correct operation of the charging system. The systems on the GMT900 trucks do not work quite like any previous truck you may be familiar with. It's much more sophisticated in the way it monitors and controls battery voltage and alternator output and an "unknown" new ground path from the battery(s) to the truck can cause it to under/over charge.


----------



## B&B

RichG53;1302517 said:


> I have been reading this and I'm a little confused...From other postings...
> I have my two bats connected Pos to pos..Neg to neg. all 2 gauge.. Main is factory connected...
> Alt wire updated.4 gauge..
> My Aux bat. grnds.,one to engine 4 gauge, one to body 10 gauge and one to frame 6 gauge..
> Will this work or is it ok ????
> Should any thing be changed or added??
> Thanks
> Rich..


Remove those two 6 and 10 gauge ground leads, they can cause the same situation samjr is in if your battery-to-engine cable connection becomes loose or corroded.

If you want an extra frame and body ground run them to the engine, not the aux battery.


----------



## RichG53

samjr--Did you mean similar ??

So go from the Neg on the Aux bat. Just to the engine ?? Right ??
Adding any additional grnds go from engine to frame and body correct ???
What size wire do you recommend for each ??
Thanks 
Rich..


----------



## wkahler

B&B;1302629 said:


> If you connect the battery's directly together you don't have to fuse the second battery's positive cable as it (the new battery) will be on the fused side of the OEM battery, thus isolated from the truck if the fuse blows.
> 
> I realize it's not as easy but you do need to run the aux battery ground cable to the main battery, not to the engine block. Otherwise the new ground can interfere with correct operation of the charging system. The systems on the GMT900 trucks do not work quite like any previous truck you may be familiar with. It's much more sophisticated in the way it monitors and controls battery voltage and alternator output and an "unknown" new ground path from the battery(s) to the truck can cause it to under/over charge.


OK got it run the new battery to the old battery and nothing to the motor block or the frame!


----------



## B&B

RichG53;1302640 said:


> samjr--Did you mean similar ??


 No, samjr as in the poster above you. Come on Rich get with the program. 



RichG53;1302640 said:


> So go from the Neg on the Aux bat. Just to the engine ?? Right ??


 Correct.



RichG53;1302640 said:


> Adding any additional grnds go from engine to frame and body correct ???What size wire do you recommend for each ??


Correct. And engine to body and engine to body connections can be 8 or 10 gauge cable or braided strap. Either one is acceptable.


----------



## RichG53

samjr...(samaj ) correct spelling...Sorry I was concentrating on my questions and what I did...Not even paying attention ...
That clears things up from the original sticky and added posts..
Thanks
Rich..


----------



## RichG53

If I just use a Bat cable from engine to frame that won't be to big ??


----------



## B&B

RichG53;1303367 said:


> If I just use a Bat cable from engine to frame that won't be to big ??


That's fine. It's better to go bigger than smaller.


----------



## RichG53

Ok I will just remove it from the bat..It is already attached to the frame found a good spot..
Same with body mount..10# Gage..
Thanks..


----------



## samjr

*Heres what i done*

B&B i went with 0 gage weld wire from the bat to motor. And motor to frame thats cool right :salute:

Ps.... did u see my new thread ? When the left side signal light is on the right side park light kinda gos dim


----------



## samjr

*I got a 200 amp alternator comeing*



B&B;717546 said:


> Trucks weren't equipped with fusables in the charging wire for years and years but if it gives you peace of mind go ahead an add an inline Maxi fuse holder rated about 50 amps higher than your alternators max rated output. Won't hurt...


B&B i got this 200 amp alternator coming Thumbs Up Now when i did the wires and dual bat install. I ran a bigger wire from back of alt to bat and left the old wire there the 1 that gos to the red box.Now do i need to put fuses on both wires?


----------



## B&B

Ditch the doubled up charging wires and run one single (4g minimum preferably) adding a 250 amp inline fuse. If you upgraded the OEM cable between the battery and junction box you can run it to the junction, but if you didn't do that cable as part of your previous cable upgrade run it directly to the driver side battery.


----------



## samjr

*There is 2 there right now*



B&B;1377563 said:


> Ditch the doubled up charging wires and run one single (4g minimum preferably) adding a 250 amp inline fuse. If you upgraded the OEM cable between the battery and junction box you can run it to the junction, but if you didn't do that cable as part of your previous cable upgrade run it directly to the driver side battery.


The OEM and my 4g That gos right to D side bat. What 1 do u want me to take out ?


----------



## samjr

*let me make it clear*



samjr;1377643 said:


> The OEM and my 4g That gos right to D side bat. What 1 do u want me to take out ?


I left the OEM Stuff there when i did my upgrade and + A 4G right to the D side bat.So the OEM gos to the red box still


----------



## B&B

Remove the OEM charge wire because it's too small to deal with a 200 amp alternator if you ever have a poor/weak connection at some point in the future on your upgraded charge wire.


----------



## samjr

*ok cool*



B&B;1377658 said:


> Remove the OEM charge wire because it's too small to deal with a 200 amp alternator if you ever have a poor/weak connection at some point in the future on your upgraded charge wire.


Ok so just take the OEM off back of the ALT and @ the RED box?And Just use my 4G From back of ALT to bat with 250 fuse


----------



## B&B

samjr;1377666 said:


> Ok so just take the OEM off back of the ALT and @ the RED box?And Just use my 4G From back of ALT to bat with 250 fuse


Correct. The OEM wire isn't providing any advantages since you're upgrading, so remove it.


----------



## samjr

*ok cool*



B&B;1377681 said:


> Correct. The OEM wire isn't providing any advantages since you're upgrading, so remove it.


I got the crayons out lol like this right lol


----------



## B&B

Yes. And the next time you have those crayons out try to stay inside the lines.


----------



## RoesLandscaping

Josh Steere;523211 said:


> I have a 2004 2500 chevy and i have a qestion.
> 
> What kind of air cleaner are you running when you put the battery on the passenger side!


the 04 2500 have a place already built in for a additional battery, due to the same engine compartment for a diesel which requires 2 batteries. all you need is the clamps to hold it down


----------



## bersh

RoesLandscaping;1389308 said:


> the 04 2500 have a place already built in for a additional battery, due to the same engine compartment for a diesel which requires 2 batteries. all you need is the clamps to hold it down


Not quite true. You have to buy the battery tray which replaces the fender brace at the back of the engine compartment on the passenger side.


----------



## RichG53

I second that..you need to remove the fender brace for it to work..


----------



## RoesLandscaping

RichG53;1389356 said:


> I second that..you need to remove the fender brace for it to work..


sorry guys didnt know, i have had 2 04 2500s and both already had the battery trays in them


----------



## chuckraduenz

i built a tray for my 04 2500. i used garage door track steel stock supprts that have all the holes in it. i made it so its mounted with 3 fire wall bolts and the side bolt near the fender. the battery is held down with ready rod and a 1 1/2" x 1/2" thick alum stock. i used 2ga. ran aux bat to solinoid to main bat. i still dont have the solinoid trigger wire hook up yet and it been like 2 weeks or so. the trigger wire will be hooked up so when the key is on the battery is on. but i have a 6amp diode across the bat termanials to give it a charge fo now. i have 2 red top optima. looks great. ill have to get pictures of it tomorrow. i just dont like how my wires are ran. ida like them run outa the way outa sight.

i run a 54" whelen liberty bar, hinker plow, i will also be adding a inverter for my computer.


i had 2 batterys in a 92 gmc k1500 for 4yrs with out any issues useing 4ga wire. hooked up the same way with a solinoid.


----------



## s&mll

I got the battery tray from the dealer for 30 bucks. Ordered over the phone came in the next day. The little rubber battery holder and bolt they keep in stock and I think that is about 3 dollars. 2gauge cable ran 2.50 per foot. Used I Think 17'. Then the 4 gauge I bought premade at autozone for 4 dollars. 

Didnt have a 2 gauge crimper so I just used a vise and a chisel. Will post pics soon


----------



## chuckraduenz

ill never crimp battery connectors. pro to pull out. so i soldered all my connectors. i got a plow truck last yr where the crimp was crappy and pulled out mid winter. so i soldered it!


----------



## s&mll

Here is my before and after. No dimming on the headlights when using fan or windows. Havent checked the plow yet because we havent had snow since I did this


----------



## RichG53

I was told not to solder connections..they lost conductivity...Maybe i was told wrong...
any help ???..on this....


----------



## samjr

*Ok got the new stuff*

Here are some pics of what i am putting in got this for under $175 shiped 
250 AMP fuse Thumbs Up


----------



## bersh

RichG53;1403362 said:


> I was told not to solder connections..they lost conductivity...Maybe i was told wrong...
> any help ???..on this....


I suppose if soldered incorrectly this might be an issue, but I think it has more to do with the strength of the solder joint than conductivity. Whenever a solder joint with potential for vibration or movement is made, there should be some sort of physical support/reinforcement made as well. The soldered joint makes a stiff portion of the wire and the point where the wire goes from stiff to pliable is more prone to failure. Using the thicker shrink-fit tubing with glue inside is one way to support the joint. This shrink-fit tubing also acts to seal the joint and prevent any corrosion so it's a good idea to use it anyway. I've seen joints that were just wrapped with electrical tape fail. For thinner wire I've used regular cheap shrink fit and have some connections that have been in use for years and haven't had a problem. These larger diameter wires require a little more support though.

Another option for those worried about it is the cool (but expensive) compression fittings. I bought some from Summit racing when I did mine and they are pretty slick.

I just copied the first link I found, but there are various sizes of these.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-21414


----------



## RichG53

bersh's Avatar 
bersh bersh is online now
Senior Member
Okay.. Thanks much...but i think it had to do with the larger wire when up grading for 2 batteries..the battery clamp ..not to solder the thin wires before inserting into the battery clamp..
Is this any different??..Because i think B&B was the one that did not recommend it..


----------



## B&B

RichG53;1403402 said:


> Okay.. Thanks much...but i think it had to do with the larger wire when up grading for 2 batteries..the battery clamp ..not to solder the thin wires before inserting into the battery clamp..
> Is this any different??..Because i think B&B was the one that did not recommend it..


I said nothing of the such. Properly soldering is fine and properly crimping is fine too. But crimping and soldering in combination is even better. Crimping provides a mechanical connection and soldering further helps to seal the joint in addition to a good quality heat shrink.


----------



## jklawn&Plow

Plus solder has silver in it very low resistantance, but some connectors are gold even better


----------



## RichG53

B&B...I'm sorry if i miss quoted you...But i remember some time back i read (on adding a extra battery thread) it was not good to solder the wires before putting them into the battery clamps...Because of conductivity.. that solder was not a good conductor...Maybe i misread it....
Again sorry ..


----------



## bersh

RichG53;1403615 said:


> B&B...I'm sorry if i miss quoted you...But i remember some time back i read (on adding a extra battery thread) it was not good to solder the wires before putting them into the battery clamps...Because of conductivity.. that solder was not a good conductor...Maybe i misread it....
> Again sorry ..


If someone claimed solder is a poor conductor than they don't know what they are talking about. The primary reason to solder after providing a bond is to conduct electricity.


----------



## chuckraduenz

ill solder no matter what someone says..... id rather have a good solid connection. than have it fall loose, short out, and possably cause a fire... iv always soldered every battery connection termanials.... i vary rarely just crimp. if i do it. its always soldered after.

but here is pictures of what i did to mine:

































i forgot to take pictures of my battery tray. iv been excited to get my led plow headlight kit...


----------



## B&B

RichG53;1403615 said:


> B&B...I'm sorry if i miss quoted you...But i remember some time back i read (on adding a extra battery thread) it was not good to solder the wires before putting them into the battery clamps...Because of conductivity.. that solder was not a good conductor...Maybe i misread it....
> Again sorry ..


Didn't see that one myself but I know I didn't say it. No harm or foul :waving:


----------



## B&B

chuckraduenz;1403712 said:


> i forgot to take pictures of my battery tray. iv been excited to get my led plow headlight kit...


I'd be more concerned about that rusty solenoid on the radiator support first.


----------



## chuckraduenz

yup got a new one. its only cosmetic. but with no snow dont think i have to worry much. its still a job in progress.


----------



## samjr

*ok Now what ?*

I did all the stuff on here and my lights still go dim ?The only thing i did not do was the ground from the main bat is that a big deal? +Put a 200 amp alt on. I am getting a vid up now for u all to see


----------



## highwayplower

I have a ford ranger that I would like to add a duel battery setup on as voltage dives, lights dim, blower slows way down anytime I move my plow. As you can assume there defiantly is no room under the hood for it. I'm thinking put it in my toolbox in my bed. I know its a bit of distance but I have to work with what I got. Any input on this? Also why would the batterys have to be the same? Both are 12 volt. Their ratings are just their discharge rates. I mean in theory seems to me the alternator would just think its a big ol battery. Just courious as I've seen on other sites that it does not matter and I don't see why it would either. Thanks


----------



## B&B

Nothing wrong with using a bed mounted toolbox to house a battery as long as it's in a box of some type for protection from shorting (throwing tools on top of it). In fact to move weight from the front you can do away with a front mounted battery entirely and place both in the toolbox. I've done many setups over the years in this way with excellent success. The biggest importance is to be sure you're connections are good, you have proper grounding and the cable sizes are adequate. 


As a battery ages it looses capacity due to sulfation and therefore doesn't charge or discharge at the same capability as an identical new battery. With them conjoined together but operating differently due to age they tend to fight each other in an effort to equalize but can't since they don't have the same properties and the alternator feels the struggle as well. So for the best working system with the most life battery's that are tied together should always be the same age and model.


----------



## highwayplower

I agree, planning on just using a marine box. Not really planning on relocating my other battery as room in my toolbox is a battle already. I was thinking 2 gauge wire?? How have you grounded this in your past installs? I've seen kits like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1199 How would this compare to buying the wire individually. Or a preferred place to buy? I don't wanna go cheap on it yet I don't wanna spend a fortune. Thanks


----------



## B&B

2G is fine as you're not going very far. A good plastic marine style box is a good choice but your Summit kit isn't really a great buy. It won't include enough black cable for the ground lead and with a small truck you'll have much more red than you need. You're better off to buy good flexible welding cable only purchasing the amount you need and just purchasing a box and hold down (or build one) separately. If you shop around marine boxes can be found for as little as $10 and a good welding supply shop should have good cable by the foot. 

Use good cable protection grommets where the cables pass through the toolbox and bed floor and safely route them forward running the positive directly to the front mounted battery and the ground cable there also, or to the engine block. However, if you do run it to the engine take the time to upgrade the OEM engine-to-battery ground cable to get the maximum benefits.


----------



## t_jones98

Two questions:
1. If both battery's positives are connected (via 2ga of course), do you need wires running from the alt to each battery, or just the main? If both, can a single in-line fuse be used and then "Y'd" from there to each battery?

2. The early 90's GM's with factory duals came with an isolator of sorts, solenoid type that connected from the P-side (aux) battery through the solenoid to the term block on the firewall, where the pos(+) of the main battery attaches. Looks like this is switched through the fuse block (small wires running into the cab). Should this be taken out of the equation? Should it be wired up with 4ga? Do I still need to connect to the term block in some way?


----------



## the new boss 92

does any one have info on relocating the evap canister on an obs? maybe pics? im going to do mine this weekend but want to know where to relocater the canister thats right in my way. also can i use power wire from a stero such as 4 gauge or 2. or are battery cable's and welding leads better to use?


----------



## Chrisxl64

After reading thru, it occurred to me, Instead of buying the multi point terminals, couldnt you just use a Dual Terminal Battery?? (34/78) Aren't they 78 class batterys anyhow? I know Duralast Gold, has one, I've run them before.


----------



## B&B

Chrisxl64;1483770 said:


> After reading thru, it occurred to me, Instead of buying the multi point terminals, couldnt you just use a Dual Terminal Battery?? (34/78) Aren't they 78 class batterys anyhow? I know Duralast Gold, has one, I've run them before.


Sure can Chris. It isn't really mentioned because the average guy doesn't always plan to purchase two brand new batteries during the upgrade. Which is a wise idea long term anyway as has been mentioned many times here...just not many want to hear it.


----------



## Chrisxl64

Mike- Figured as much, but Ive got to say, I've had pretty good luck with the duralast battery's and they are pretty reasonable as far as cost. Laying out drawings for the new truck,for these upgrades again, before ive even got it. Can probably pull off, the entire upgrade, battery's, and all. With 2 gauge wire, as well as upgrading to a Trombetta, and the Plows Lines to 2 gauge with andersons, for under 500. Not a bad deal, considering the difference the upgrade has made for my trucks in the past. Thinking about using Military Spec Terminals, and Solder Slug ring-ends for all connections. 

But then again, I'm usually slightly overkill with stuff, and allocate about an extra 1500 bucks, to any purchase, just to get most things up to snuff, and do a complete once over. 
-Reverse Lights
-Charging System
-Battery
-Full Fluid Swap
-Any suspension stuff
-Coolers if any are lacking
-Solid Tires
-Back Up Alarm
-Etc Etc Etc,,,,,the usual essentials any HD truck should have.....(or better yet should have from the facotry)


----------



## Bunny

Just got the 3 parts to do my 2006 GMC 2500HD and the numbers were a little different.
Tray = 15246518 - $32.95
Bolt = 11509853 - $ 1.07
Retainer = 14005061 - $4.46

I plan to install the second battery with a second dedicated alternator as well. Looking forward to no dimmed lights when I plow and more power available for lights, inverter, and Ham radio gear!

Now to fabricate that dual alternator bracket!


----------



## crazywelder72

i see a lot of the same questions..but the answers are lacking.... I have a duel battery setup on my 99 silverado. running to red top optimas but the voltage drops, lights dim, blower slows way down anytime I move my plow. I have the stock alternator and keep talking about a "high output" but i am afraid there wont be much of a difference at idle speed. afterall thats where it usually is when doing driveways.


----------



## Bunny

Dual batteries need to be connected such that all the "normal stuff", blower, radio, headlights etc are off the "regular" battery, and then connect the plow and other accessories like CB, Ham radios, off-road lights etc. to the second battery. Mine will be set up with dual alternators each charging a separate battery.


----------



## crazyboy

Bunny;1551653 said:


> Dual batteries need to be connected such that all the "normal stuff", blower, radio, headlights etc are off the "regular" battery, and then connect the plow and other accessories like CB, Ham radios, off-road lights etc. to the second battery. Mine will be set up with dual alternators each charging a separate battery.


There's a few different ways you can do it. Personally, I prefer to use a solenoid between the two batteries. Everything connected to the main battery, secondary batter connects when it is running to charge and provide the additional power. Then should my main battery die when the vehicle is off, I can flip a switch energizing the solenoid and connect the two batteries to jump start the truck.


----------



## Millsy

Ok boys ,i have a 07 new style and want to add a second battery but it sounds like it is different than the older ones.From what I can figure out I just need to go pos to pos and neg to neg in the new style and nothing else.


----------



## B&B

Millsy;1558581 said:


> Ok boys ,i have a 07 new style and want to add a second battery but it sounds like it is different than the older ones.From what I can figure out I just need to go pos to pos and neg to neg in the new style and nothing else.


It works the same way with a new body style. Positive to positive directly and you can run the aux battery ground to the engine block. No need to go to the other battery with that one.


----------



## Bunny

Well after looking at how much work it's going to take to fab a bracket for the alternator, and realizing that I don't have the correct "second" alternator" ...I've decided to go with the solenoid between the batteries and just leave everything connected to the main battery as it is now. The second battery will just be extra power when needed for the plow. Great forum and many many threads to be read on this subject!Thumbs Up This thread is excellent http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=55865
Reply With Quote


----------



## Millsy

B&B;1558850 said:


> It works the same way with a new body style. Positive to positive directly and you can run the aux battery ground to the engine block. No need to go to the other battery with that one.


Thank You I think I can manage that.Is it OK to use the side terminals to run the pos too the second battery?


----------



## B&B

Millsy;1558885 said:


> Thank You I think I can manage that.Is it OK to use the side terminals to run the pos too the second battery?


Sure that's acceptable.


----------



## Bunny

OK - I just did the new tray install - see my previous note about the part numbers for the 2006 GMC. I did have to remove another bracket, yes the upper one is there but there's another, that is bolted to the firewall by 4 bolts, and to the inner fender well by 2 bolts, one of which holds the coolant tank in place. The new bracket bolts right up to the same bolts. I did have to remove the coolant tank (just the one bolt and I was able to move it out of the way enough) to make enough room to get the new tray in. I also discovered that I had to leave it removed to get the new battery in as well! So now just need to mount the relay and get the wiring done. (Don't do this install when the temp is in the 20's...freezin fingers!)


----------



## REAPER

Bunny;1560016 said:


> OK - I just did the new tray install - see my previous note about the part numbers for the 2006 GMC. I did have to remove another bracket, yes the upper one is there but there's another, that is bolted to the firewall by 4 bolts, and to the inner fender well by 2 bolts, one of which holds the coolant tank in place. The new bracket bolts right up to the same bolts. I did have to remove the coolant tank (just the one bolt and I was able to move it out of the way enough) to make enough room to get the new tray in. I also discovered that I had to leave it removed to get the new battery in as well! So now just need to mount the relay and get the wiring done. (Don't do this install when the temp is in the 20's...freezin fingers!)


Completed pictures please.


----------



## Bunny

REAPER;1560308 said:


> Completed pictures please.


When it's complete - I'll post pics...just got the battery in...still need to do the wires. Picked up two 200 amp fuse holders and fuses today along with some 2 AWG wire, connectors etc.
Because of the way my plow is wired, there are some nice points that I can connect the wires. I also will be upgrading the "charging" wire from the alternator to a second wire, probably a 4 AWG that I happen to have handy.


----------



## mn-bob

Sounds great send pictures when done. Thanks


----------



## the05goat

My friend has a roll of 0 gauge wire is that ok to use from the aux battery to the main battery?


----------



## Bunny

Finally got this project done and documented!

Here's what I started with...next post will have more on installation.


----------



## Bunny

Here are the brackets I had to remove/replace for the new battery tray.
The new #2 wires with fuses etc., and the added circuit in the fuse box.
Finished project next post...


----------



## Bunny

Here is the finished project.
Used #2 wires for the connections between the batteries.
Rerouted the #4 wire that went from the main battery to the plow solenoid to go from the main battery to the alternator. I left the old #8 wire to the junction box in place. (more is better )
I moved the plow solenoid to accommodate a cable I made up a bit too short! 
The routing near the second battery is done for space limitation reasons. The second battery is grounded to the body. I may run a second cable to the frame at some point. I also plan to install an auxiliary fuse/junction box attached to the second battery. Works great, alternator started out putting out about 16-17 volts then settled right down to 14 or so. Plow works nice now but have not tried it with the lights on.
(Yeah I know I need to clean the pine needles off the cowl!


----------



## RichG53

The only thing i will tell you from reading B&B is run your extra charge wire from the alternator straight to your battery....not the junction block..leave the stock wire on...just add a second one straight to the battery..


----------



## Bunny

Light 'em up!


----------



## Bunny

RichG53;1565317 said:


> The only thing i will tell you from reading B&B is run your extra charge wire from the alternator straight to your battery....not the junction block..leave the stock wire on...just add a second one straight to the battery..


ummmm.That's what I did!


----------



## RichG53

Okay...just bring it to your attention..


----------



## Millsy

Now do you want to do mine ?Where in maine are you Bunny?


----------



## RichG53

It's not hard to do yourself...


----------



## Millsy

I was Joking Rich,as soon as I round up everything I need I will tackle it


----------



## Bunny

Millsy;1565365 said:


> I was Joking Rich,as soon as I round up everything I need I will tackle it


That's exactly the way to do it. Get all the "stuff" first. I happened to have the battery.
Then I got the second battery tray, clamp and bolt.
Then I got the PAC solenoid - Amazon I think.
Mounted the battery tray, battery and solenoid.
Now you can measure for your cable lengths etc.
Then I got the fuse holders and fuses - local car audio shop had them.
Got the cables at a auto parts store (they had the red ones) you can also get black ones from a welding supply shop. Got the ring connectors at the welding supply shop.
Then I measured and started building/assembling the cables with the connectors and fuses.
Then I put it all together! Remember to disconnect the ground cables before you start the assembly!

(By the way - I'm in China, Maine)


----------



## RichG53

Millsy;1565365 said:


> I was Joking Rich,as soon as I round up everything I need I will tackle it


Okay...no problem..


----------



## mn-bob

Thanks for the pictures Looks good .


----------



## 90plow

Looking some direction on a dual battery install on my 95 gmc 3500 with the 5.7. Tell me if i have this right. The new battery should be installed with its own charging wire from the altenator a 4 ga wire. Next the new batterry should be grounded to the frame and motor. Then the positive wire should cross to the old battery and both positives should be connected. Am i right on this?


----------



## purpleranger519

I noticed a few of you have asked about HO Alternators and I have spent a lot of money over the past 5 years in search of a True HO at idle Alternator. I've tried PowerBastards, Mean Green, and ManiacElectric and of these 3 the Mean Green was probably the better of the group, however I wasn't totally satisfied, I still had some dimming of the lights and you could feel the blower on the heater slow down when running the plow on occasion. Last year however I found Exactly what I needed for an alternator. I called Nations Starter and Alternator and told Adam what I was looking for and why. This guy didn't need to call me back or have me hold on, he knew right there that a DC Power alternator was what I was needing. He set me up with a 300SPX that gives me 225 amps at idle and told me to give it a try and if I wasn't happy, he would build me a custom alternator in exchange for this one. No need. I run Blizzard plows and every time you hit the stick that plow is pulling 160amps so they require a good energy source. I have no dimming, no blower slow down, nothing. I couldn't be happier. Some may look at the price of almost $700 for an alternator and turn away, but I get a 2 year warranty and piece of mind that my equipment is powered properly and my electrical system wont fail.

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/highoutput.html


----------



## linycctitan

Will be picking up a 2003 2500 Burban with the 8.1 shortly, already looks pretty cramped under the hood. Anyone add or have a dual battery setup with the 8.1 stuffed in their truck?


----------



## secret_weapon

linycctitan;1651989 said:


> Will be picking up a 2003 2500 Burban with the 8.1 shortly, already looks pretty cramped under the hood. Anyone add or have a dual battery setup with the 8.1 stuffed in their truck?


Look at the pics in post 228. Whether you have 6.0 or 8.1, the 2nd battery will sit on the right side diagonal to original battery.


----------



## Octane Outlaw

Great thread. It confirmed what I knew about duel batteries that we use in our demo derby cars. 

One question though....I just picked up a 1998 Silverado w/5.7 vortex. How does one figure out how big of an alternator it has? I don't see any tags anywhere (without removing it). Would your basic multimeter be able to determine the output? If so what settings on the meter should I use?

many thanks...
Jim


----------



## purpleranger519

It's 105 or 124 amps I would guess. With the 124 being my guess. It should have a number on it where you can tell. Should be on the back where the battery cables connect.


----------



## RichG53

Take the VIN number to a dealer...They should be able to look it up...Or it should maybe be etched on the case ..


----------



## theholycow

Octane Outlaw;1657107 said:


> Great thread. It confirmed what I knew about duel batteries that we use in our demo derby cars.
> 
> One question though....I just picked up a 1998 Silverado w/5.7 vortex. How does one figure out how big of an alternator it has? I don't see any tags anywhere (without removing it). Would your basic multimeter be able to determine the output? If so what settings on the meter should I use?
> 
> many thanks...
> Jim


In the glovebox there is a sticker with the list of RPO codes. Google up an RPO decoder, feed them in, and see what equipment it came with, including alternator.

Or feed the VIN into compnine.com, if they're still providing free info.


----------



## chuckraduenz

2013 chevy 6l gas 2nd battery install. 

I have the second battery installed. but id like to know what to do with chevys dumb idea for the oem battery post idea. its not normal. as the positive and neg post are sunk in the battery. and its not as easy as just cutting the ends off and installing different ends. as there is a 175amp fuse that branches off the pos battery post to feed the driver side fuse block. what have you done or a good idea? if they would have kept the side post idea this would be a no brainer idea........ but its a bit more work now....


----------



## dieselss

like this http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=148457


----------



## chuckraduenz

looks like this...


----------



## dieselss

No. It's on the firewall


----------



## chuckraduenz

mines not. its on the battery post terminal. but I want to change it to side post as I want to add a optima battery,.


----------



## Snowhoss

I'm adding a second battery just like the orginal post. Should I use 2AWG from battery to battery or will I be ok with 4 or 6awg? I was going to run 6 off the alternator, and I dont think the plow wires are 2awg so do I really want 2awg battery to battery?


----------



## dieselss

Yes 2g all the way around. And add a 2g gnd wire to the atl mounting area. If you can right to the back of the alt would be great but the mounting bolts are ok too


----------



## mkwl

Where exactly are you guys attaching the extra grounds to on the engine and frame?


----------



## RichG53

Engine,Frame and Fire wall..


----------



## Jakedaawg

So, I have seen a couple of post dealing with '10 and later chevys. I have an '10 6.0L. Did any one who added a second battery happen to keep a parts list they could post?


----------



## crazyboy

Did dual batteries, the Big 3, and also upgraded the alternator to a 250amp/175 at idle. All 0 gauge wire, circuit breakers between the batteries and on the charge wire, and a continuous duty solenoid between the batteries with jump start switch.


----------



## c.schulz

One word........................SWEET Top notch install. Can I ask what is the Big 3?
I also see Duralast batteries. Have you had good luck wth them? Ill be needing new set before long.

Chris


----------



## crazyboy

c.schulz;1708258 said:


> One word........................SWEET Top notch install. Can I ask what is the Big 3?
> I also see Duralast batteries. Have you had good luck wth them? Ill be needing new set before long.
> 
> Chris


The big 3 is upgrading the battery to alternator (charge wire), battery to block, and block to body grounds with larger cables. As far as the duralasts go, this is my first set. These are AGM batteries and have a 3 year warranty. From what I read they are made by the same company that makes Deka batteries which seem to have a good reputation.


----------



## XXL 4RUNNER

crazyboy;1707884 said:


> Did dual batteries, the Big 3, and also upgraded the alternator to a 250amp/175 at idle. All 0 gauge wire, circuit breakers between the batteries and on the charge wire, and a continuous duty solenoid between the batteries with jump start switch.


250 amp alt ?! No kiddin, what brand? Where'd you buy it ? How's it holding up?


----------



## crazyboy

XXL 4RUNNER;1712398 said:


> 250 amp alt ?! No kiddin, what brand? Where'd you buy it ? How's it holding up?


Haven't had it in long enough to judge how it will hold up. I made a mistake on numbers, the model I got was 240/150 at idle. You can get large ones but they increase in money. payup I got mine from http://nationsstarteralternator.com...ear=2002&Make=GMC&Model=Sierra&Engine=6.0L+V8 However this place seems good too http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/ad244.html


----------



## dieselss

Dcpower.com


----------



## purpleranger519

crazyboy;1712584 said:


> Haven't had it in long enough to judge how it will hold up. I made a mistake on numbers, the model I got was 240/150 at idle. You can get large ones but they increase in money. payup I got mine from http://nationsstarteralternator.com...ear=2002&Make=GMC&Model=Sierra&Engine=6.0L+V8 However this place seems good too http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/ad244.html


They are the same place. Just different names for some reason.


----------



## MajorDave

crazyboy;1707884 said:


> Did dual batteries, the Big 3, and also upgraded the alternator to a 250amp/175 at idle. All 0 gauge wire, circuit breakers between the batteries and on the charge wire, and a continuous duty solenoid between the batteries with jump start switch.


Crazy - is that a Votage Sensitive Relay mounted there? If so - what brand? Assuming it is...to protect both batteries...


----------



## crazyboy

purpleranger519;1713772 said:


> They are the same place. Just different names for some reason.


Doh! I see that now.



MajorDave;1713784 said:


> Crazy - is that a Votage Sensitive Relay mounted there? If so - what brand? Assuming it is...to protect both batteries...


No, it is just a standard relay to used to connect the batteries only while the truck is running.


----------



## XXL 4RUNNER

Crazy, it's been about a month how's that alt working out so far ?? Also, can you explain your jump start switch? I'm doing this soon and like your setup. Does the switch energize the isolator? Because I thought when the ignition turned on the isolator turned on or does it turn on once alt voltage is shown? Thx alot


----------



## crazyboy

XXL 4RUNNER;1745782 said:


> Crazy, it's been about a month how's that alt working out so far ?? Also, can you explain your jump start switch? I'm doing this soon and like your setup. Does the switch energize the isolator? Because I thought when the ignition turned on the isolator turned on or does it turn on once alt voltage is shown? Thx alot


So far no complaints. The solenoid is energized, thus connecting the two batteries, when the key is on. With the key off the batteries are disconnected, so you could have one go dead and the other stay charged. The power for the isolator typically comes from the main battery, the switch is connected from the auxiliary battery to the positive of the solenoid in case the main battery goes dead while they are disconnected. Flip switch, start truck.


----------



## XXL 4RUNNER

Ah I gotcha, thanks man!


----------



## Cosmic Charlie

http://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/gm-1500-dual-battery-install/


----------



## gman46

I am VERY new to the forum, and I do not plow snow. Just searched on the dual battery setup and came across this phenomenal discussion (thanks to all that participated).

So here is my stupid question: I do not have a plow but have a winch (12k#), what requires more power, winch or plow?

I have a 2000 K2500 suburban that I want to run dual batts on, and wondering if isolator is better for my occasional winch/overhead LED bar use.

thanks much for responses and please pardon the lack of knowledge.


----------



## xgiovannix12

gman46;1930251 said:


> I am VERY new to the forum, and I do not plow snow. Just searched on the dual battery setup and came across this phenomenal discussion (thanks to all that participated).
> 
> So here is my stupid question: I do not have a plow but have a winch (12k#), what requires more power, winch or plow?
> 
> I have a 2000 K2500 suburban that I want to run dual batts on, and wondering if isolator is better for my occasional winch/overhead LED bar use.
> 
> thanks much for responses and please pardon the lack of knowledge.


I think an isolator would be IDEAL for what your using it for.


----------



## gman46

Thank you very much for the quick response!


----------



## sixty4

Two quick questions. On the aux battery ground to engine block, should this be a separate location from the grounding cable to frame or can these two tie together at the engine block at the same spot (sorry if this seems dumb)? Also what guage ground wire should I use from engine block to frame? Thank you!


----------



## PLOWMAN45

In my truck is pos to pos and neg to neg


----------



## sixty4

Ok thanks! One more question anyway to install a guage (voltmeters) to tell if one battery is getting weaker over time. I would think as your pulling from the two batteries they would show the same voltage and die at the same rate, but wondered about something like this (without an isolator, but this would defeat the power in a way)?


----------



## dieselss

If the batts are hooked together, no way to tell which one would be getting weaker WITHOUT isolating one.
Ground wire....I used 2g.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

i hope your adding 2 new and not i new and 1 old


----------



## sixty4

dieselss;1981258 said:


> If the batts are hooked together, no way to tell which one would be getting weaker WITHOUT isolating one.
> Ground wire....I used 2g.


Ok that's what I thought as well. Thumbs Up



PLOWMAN45;1981260 said:


> i hope your adding 2 new and not i new and 1 old


Yes, I am. Same size bought at exact same time Thumbs Up

wesport.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

my new truck came with 2 battery's now its 5 years im changing to interstate bats


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

I ran everything for a dual battery setup. I currently have one older battery and ordered two new optima red tops. One is coming today the second is coming on Tuesday. Snow coming sunday. Can I run 1 new 1 old for the time being (2 days or so)? Plow setup to auxiliary...or would it be a better option to run the plow off of the auxiliary battery standalone for the two days without the batteries connected to each other (and no alternator to aux)?

Thanks


----------



## Philbilly2

OneManWithAPlow said:


> I ran everything for a dual battery setup. I currently have one older battery and ordered two new optima red tops. One is coming today the second is coming on Tuesday. Snow coming sunday. Can I run 1 new 1 old for the time being (2 days or so)? Plow setup to auxiliary...or would it be a better option to run the plow off of the auxiliary battery standalone for the two days without the batteries connected to each other (and no alternator to aux)?
> 
> Thanks


I would not tie an new battery to an old one for any extended period of time as they will drain each other back and forth. I would just let it be till you get both, it has been working this long.


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Philbilly2 said:


> I would not tie an new battery to an old one for any extended period of time as they will drain each other back and forth. I would just let it be till you get both, it has been working this long.


Yes but I installed plow wiring on the passenger side. For the solenoid at least. So either I activate the back up truck, or I run the plow off of a standalone secondary battery. It also will not be an extended period of time, maybe tops 6 hours. not worth the risk? Both batteries should have been here by now but there was a shipping issue on the second battery even though they were ordered at the same time...


----------



## Philbilly2

OneManWithAPlow said:


> Yes but I installed plow wiring on the passenger side. For the solenoid at least. So either I activate the back up truck, or I run the plow off of a standalone secondary battery. It also will not be an extended period of time, maybe tops 6 hours. not worth the risk? Both batteries should have been here by now but there was a shipping issue on the second battery even though they were ordered at the same time...


I would say with the cost of an Optima, I would not tie the two together for any time. If you snag another lead from your alternator and charge and run that battery doing the plow on its own, you should be fine.

I am sure someone else will chime in and say that I am wrong, I just know you can kill a good battery in a hurry if it is hooked to an old one. Would hate to see you wreck a $200 battery.


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Philbilly2 said:


> I would say with the cost of an Optima, I would not tie the two together for any time. If you snag another lead from your alternator and charge and run that battery doing the plow on its own, you should be fine.
> 
> I am sure someone else will chime in and say that I am wrong, I just know you can kill a good battery in a hurry if it is hooked to an old one. Would hate to see you wreck a $200 battery.


Thank you. I will hold off until Saturday and see if the other battery arrives early by any Chance. If not I will run the secondary alternator cable to the aux battery temporarily.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

my aux has my led flasher and snowplow i think


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Recently finished a dual battery setup. Upon starting the vehicle truck is fine. When accelerating there is a strange whining noise and I haven't been able to figure out where it is coming from. Is this normal? Any ideas? I followed the posts recommendations and ran two optima red top 34/78s. I ran the ground from above the firewall middle driver side to the alternator mounting bolt as seen in the pictures. Is this a problem?



http://imgur.com/mAWXV


Any help is appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## Philbilly2

OneManWithAPlow said:


> Recently finished a dual battery setup. Upon starting the vehicle truck is fine. When accelerating there is a strange whining noise and I haven't been able to figure out where it is coming from. Is this normal? Any ideas? I followed the posts recommendations and ran two optima red top 34/78s. I ran the ground from above the firewall middle driver side to the alternator mounting bolt as seen in the pictures. Is this a problem?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/mAWXV
> 
> 
> Any help is appreciated. Thank you.


Have you tied shutting your radio off?


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Philbilly2 said:


> Have you tied shutting your radio off?


Radio was off. I kept it off to listen for the noise.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

what about postive to postive and negative to negative ?


----------



## SnoFarmer

PLOWMAN45 said:


> what about postive to postive and negative to negative ?


This with the ground you have.

Also did you coil up any of the wires?


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

SnoFarmer said:


> This with the ground you have.
> 
> Also did you coil up any of the wires?


I apologize, but I don't know what this means.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

all im saying if i could listen to the radio that would drive me nuts


----------



## leolkfrm

OneManWithAPlow said:


> Recently finished a dual battery setup. Upon starting the vehicle truck is fine. When accelerating there is a strange whining noise and I haven't been able to figure out where it is coming from. Is this normal? Any ideas? I followed the posts recommendations and ran two optima red top 34/78s. I ran the ground from above the firewall middle driver side to the alternator mounting bolt as seen in the pictures. Is this a problem?
> 
> have the same thing with the new dual setup on my 02, its the alt running hard right after startup, i use the remote start 10 min ahead of time and its gone by time i get in the truck


----------



## PLOWMAN45

wtf is B W A


----------



## leolkfrm

But Who Am I

took an attitude a few years back, try and give the best info i can, or quote the best info i can, and you can take it or leave it!...not going to argue about it

Thumbs Up :laughing:


----------



## PLOWMAN45

i never heard that saying but whatever i guess


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Redid all of my wiring, went with OFC instead of CCA and got everything nice and tight with die electric, got my grounds good checked all my connections etc. 

When i operate my plow, i still get dimming of any lights that are on. Running two red top optimas, 1/0 gauge wire, fused both batteries, everythings grounded with the stock alternator after following advice in original post. My dome light dims, dash lights dim, and headlights dim..any suggestions?


----------



## PLOWMAN45

is alternator in good shape


----------



## Philbilly2

OneManWithAPlow said:


> Redid all of my wiring, went with OFC instead of CCA and got everything nice and tight with die electric, got my grounds good checked all my connections etc.
> 
> When i operate my plow, i still get dimming of any lights that are on. Running two red top optimas, 1/0 gauge wire, fused both batteries, everythings grounded with the stock alternator after following advice in original post. My dome light dims, dash lights dim, and headlights dim..any suggestions?


Have you tested the amp draw on the plow motor?


----------



## Randall Ave

Your going to get some dimming. With it running, what is your voltage? Then while operating the plow, what does the voltage drop to?


----------



## SnoFarmer

you will get some dimming at idle, most alts don't put out mulch at idle.

whining = poor grounds, spark gaps, worn electrical devices, resistor plugs,

any extra of wires coiled up. did you install a radio or speakers recently?


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Randall Ave said:


> Your going to get some dimming. With it running, what is your voltage? Then while operating the plow, what does the voltage drop to?


about 15.5 at idle and about 12 while operating according to the meter on the dash, havent gotten a digital measurement,



Philbilly2 said:


> Have you tested the amp draw on the plow motor?


I have not, could I test with a voltmeter? Is test done at the plow pump/motor assembly?


----------



## SnoFarmer

Volts arnt amps.


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

SnoFarmer said:


> Volts arnt amps.


Yes, I understand. I was asking if there was a conversion but i guess id also need resistance...?


----------



## Randall Ave

Just asking about volts at the moment. Dash gauges are marginal at best. Use a good volt meter at the battery.


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

Randall Ave said:


> Just asking about volts at the moment. Dash gauges are marginal at best. Use a good volt meter at the battery.


Auxiliary Battery or Primary Battery? or Does not matter?


----------



## SnoFarmer

Are you useing a battery isolator?


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

SnoFarmer said:


> Are you useing a battery isolator?


No.


----------



## SnoFarmer

So you have to matched batts connected directely together.


----------



## SnoFarmer

Load test each batt.
Clean all connections .
Up grade wiring where needed.

Have alt bench tested.

Clean the screen in the sump.
Flush syestem.
Fresh fluid

Have a amp draw test performed on the pump motor.


----------



## OneManWithAPlow

SnoFarmer said:


> Load test each batt.
> Clean all connections .
> Up grade wiring where needed.
> 
> Have alt bench tested.
> 
> Clean the screen in the sump.
> Flush syestem.
> Fresh fluid
> 
> Have a amp draw test performed on the pump motor.


Two brand new red top optimas. All brand new wiring and connections. I have battery>fuse>Fuse>Battery for positive and battery>Battery for negative/ground. All connections are brand new with dielectric grease and heatshrink connectors.

Will test Alt.

Pump internals are all brand new. Reservoir and screens are brand new, filters new, pumps new. Manifold was cleaned Fluid is new as of last week.(1/6)

Will test motor.

Alt wiring is 4ga OFC from alt to battery..all other wiring is 1/0ga OFC.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

Oh I learned something interstate batts are crap both failed in one year and optima is made my interstate so i went with deckka


----------



## Philbilly2

wanted to try it for years, I have always had diesels so never had just one from the factory... got one, so I finally did an isolator on a truck.

Truck runs on it's own battery. 
Plow, strobes, drag up tank, all that stuff runs on its own battery.

We will see how this goes...


----------



## chachi1984

Hey. I recently picked up a 08 Silverado 2500hd ,in great shape Florida winters and oil sprayed , I have 3 other 02-05 sierra 2500 and have dual batteries on all of the trucks . The batteries are in the box hooked up using a isolator . My question is the new 08 has a spot under the hood for another battery. I think the 08 and up trucks , it was an option for dual batteries . What’s the best way to hook up another battery like it would be from the factory

Thanks


----------



## Philbilly2

chachi1984 said:


> Hey. I recently picked up a 08 Silverado 2500hd ,in great shape Florida winters and oil sprayed , I have 3 other 02-05 sierra 2500 and have dual batteries on all of the trucks . The batteries are in the box hooked up using a isolator . My question is the new 08 has a spot under the hood for another battery. I think the 08 and up trucks , it was an option for dual batteries . What's the best way to hook up another battery like it would be from the factory
> 
> Thanks


Dual batteries from the factory are hooked up in simple parallel circuit.


----------



## midnight pumpkin




----------



## TOOMUCHWALKING

As I was getting my new plow installed by a reputable dealer, I requested a dual battery conversion at the same time...they said they couldn't do the passenger-side-up-against-the-firewall setup I've seen so many pictures of. Anyone know why? It was recommended to go in the bed or under the rear seat (holes drilled in the floor-abort!Abort!Abort!)


----------



## PLOWMAN45

what year is your truck ?


----------



## leolkfrm

agreed on year of truck, i bought the base at the stealer and had to remove the fender brace on mine


----------



## TJS

I know I know it is not a chevy. I have been running dual batteries in my truck for a while now. I had to modify a diesel battery tray (turn it the other way) and re-locate a couple of brackets and such. You cannot tell as it looks factory. Now I am going to move this battery to my alum tool box. It houses my dump pump and a small air compressor and tank set up. I want to move it because I have some more components I need to put where the battery was. I made a battery tray set up. I will post pics of it mounted. I just have to finish wiring it. I use welding cable and the solder battery lug ends.
Here is a vid of cutting the base of the battery tray out.


----------



## TJS

Battery using a diesel tray flipped 90 degrees. Move Power steering reservoir and some other stuff.









Here is the box I am going to move it to.









Here is inside the tool box with the battery mounted. Behind it is my dump pump and to the right and above the pump is my air tank. To the right of the battery will be the air compressor. Tight fit.


----------



## Philbilly2

TJS said:


> Battery using a diesel tray flipped 90 degrees. Move Power steering reservoir and some other stuff.
> View attachment 207211
> 
> 
> Here is the box I am going to move it to.
> View attachment 207212
> 
> 
> Here is inside the tool box with the battery mounted. Behind it is my dump pump and to the right and above the pump is my air tank. To the right of the battery will be the air compressor. Tight fit.
> View attachment 207213


what year Chevy is that? I don't remember them with the gas strut... or is that a custom thing?


----------



## PLOWMAN45

I have a guy who does my lights he can pretty much do it all in Norwalk CT i can give you his info


----------



## TJS

^^^^Plowman, Is that statement for me ? Don't think I need any help if it is.


----------



## PLOWMAN45

the poster above you


----------



## TOOMUCHWALKING

PLOWMAN45 said:


> what year is your truck ?


2001 GMC 2500HD-In one of those lightbulb moments, talking with the installer when I picked it up, I mentioned the yet-to-be-installed rear blade and that settled having it in the rear. Anyone have theirs mounted under the bed, and where? Thanks for your help


----------



## PLOWMAN45

I would think that wouldn't be good exposed to elements hard to get to where are you from


----------



## TJS

TOOMUCHWALKING said:


> 2001 GMC 2500HD-In one of those lightbulb moments, talking with the installer when I picked it up, I mentioned the yet-to-be-installed rear blade and that settled having it in the rear. Anyone have theirs mounted under the bed, and where? Thanks for your help


I am sure it could be done. I would think you would have to make or find an aluminum or steel box that would house the battery. This would require L-brackets to the frame. However as others have stated you are exposing this to damage if you hit something. This would require some fabrication but it could be done.


----------



## William B.

Going to do this to my 06. Battery date tag says 21 but it sure doesn't act like. Have the tray and hold down ordered. Once it gets here I'll find new dual post batteries and get everything installed. Hopefully this helps the draw down.


----------

