# Chevy recall blower module



## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

Just opened a recall letter from chevy today . After all the mumbo jumbo it basically says that the blower motor for the heating system may not function on certain settings or not at all due to the terminals for the resistor module being corroded. They will reimburse if the repair has been made 
Just so happens mine only works on the high setting.


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## djagusch (Oct 15, 2007)

years of trucks?


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

Oh yeah sorry I have an 04. The letter doesn't state which other model years are affected


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## CGM Inc. (Dec 15, 2008)

some of our older trucks have the same issue! if you look at how the resistors are welded in I have to say it's a hack job! No wonder they fail!


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

That has been an issue for some time now. I'm suprised it is a recall on some vehicles. My father's Trailblazer needs one right now.


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

According to chevy moisture is getting into
The fresh intake plenum and contact the module,causing it to overheat

They've had a lot of complaints or something, at least they want to make it right. No complaints here I've always liked the chevy's, seems like its always the little stupid things that break.


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## BlizzardBeater (Aug 29, 2010)

Those have been a problem forever. Im surprised they are recalling it as its a non safety related issue.


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

I got a letter yesterday for my Wife's 04 Yukon. I did replace an actuator a couple years ago, not the resistor though. The letter said it is covered for 10 years. I wonder if there are any other years included???


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## tuna (Nov 2, 2002)

Mine just started acting up yesterday,blower works but no air comes out the vents unless I play with it for a while and then it just comes out on high.Is this a symptom of the BMR?


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## ajman21 (Oct 30, 2009)

tuna;1294061 said:


> Mine just started acting up yesterday,blower works but no air comes out the vents unless I play with it for a while and then it just comes out on high.Is this a symptom of the BMR?


the blower running but not going through the vents sounds more like a vacuum line not actuating the control ducts. mine does that occasionally when going from hot to cold. the only running on high could be or could just be your switch panel is bad...


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

No letter for me, but I replaced my 05 HD and my wifes 03 Tahoe already.


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## whitextreme (Oct 12, 2007)

Running on high means the resistor under the dash is bad. The high setting has a separate fuse it doesn't run through the resistor.


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## GM_Fan40 (Aug 29, 2011)

Where can i find the fuse for the the high setting? Is it in the fuse panel? I have an 05 sierra.and the blower doesnt work on high but all the other settings work.


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## chevyman83 (Nov 25, 2010)

There is no separate fuse for a particular fan speed. I would guess you have a bad blower motor module.


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

If I remember correctly, high speed by passes the resistor and runs directly through a relay.


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

GM_Fan40;1302277 said:


> Where can i find the fuse for the the high setting? Is it in the fuse panel? I have an 05 sierra.and the blower doesnt work on high but all the other settings work.


If you can't find your answer on plow site try www.silveradosierra.com I've been there a few times lots of info


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

Found this on fullsizechevy.com. Same truck as yours and this is what he found.

Hey everyone. I finally found the culprit. There is a large 40amp fuse in the under hood fuse box that had blown. At first glance it appeared to be good, only after I removed the fuse and om'd it out did I discover it to be bad. A simple $3 part was the problem. Everything works as it should, I really appreciate all of your responses and suggestions, that is why I keep coming to this web site for info. We'll catch up later.... Thank you


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## GM_Fan40 (Aug 29, 2011)

Sweet! Ill have to check it out. Thanks for all the replies!


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## affekonig (Aug 5, 2008)

It isn't a recall, it's a special coverage that GM has offered on a component that has a known issue. The following vehicles are covered:

2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban Tahoe 

2003-2007 Chevrolet Silverado 

2003-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL 

2003-2007 GMC Sierra 

Equipped with Manual HVAC (CJ3) or Heavy Duty Heater (C42) 

Yes, this is a manufacturer standing behind the product as they have many times (injectors, instrument clusters, etc). I've had somewhere between 20 and 30 Fords and most of them have needed the blower motor resistor replaced. I don't blame anyone: parts fail. 

Anyway, that's the scoop.


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## GM_Fan40 (Aug 29, 2011)

Whelp i tried swapping the fuses out, and it did nothing.. :-(


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## 04chevy2500 (Oct 7, 2009)

so what does this mean for those of us that have already spent the $ to fix the problem?


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

The letter from chevy says u can be reimbursed. I can post more info tomorrow.


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

04chevy2500;1302387 said:



> so what does this mean for those of us that have already spent the $ to fix the problem?


My letter says you can go through the dealer or call 18002221020 for customer service, I hope that's the right number I tried to memorize it before I left the house this morning. Let me know if its wrong and I can repost it when I get home. Good luck


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## 04chevy2500 (Oct 7, 2009)

I will try that number tomorrow thank you NckT. I didnt get the letter because I bought the truck used. Does this affect the reimbursement at all?


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## NickT (Feb 1, 2011)

Don't think so mine was used also. I think they go by BMV records


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Reviving an old thread. 
Googled Silverado blower and what came up...PS
My blower motor just stopped yesterday. Didn't squeal, make noise etc. 
Changed the fuse even though it didn't appear to be blown. 
Is there a quick way to test? Looks like it's in the cab, under the dash. 
Maybe @Philbilly2 has dealt with this?


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

That happened to our 06 once. I seem to recall there was some sort of potentiometer that controlled the speed that had failed

Edit: looks like they call it a resistor.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

cwren2472 said:


> That happened to our 06 once. I seem to recall there was some sort of potentiometer that controlled the speed that had failed


Mine is different than what I've read that happens when the resistor goes. From what I read, high works, but I have nutt'n on any speed.

I should have driven to Jersey yesterday. :laugh:


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

EWSplow said:


> Mine is different than what I've read that happens when the resistor goes. From what I read, high works, but I have nutt'n on any speed.
> 
> I should have driven to Jersey yesterday. :laugh:


I thought ours was dead entirely too but this is from memory from 5 or so years ago and I didn't fix it myself so I could be totally wrong


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Resistor will give you high or off.

The resistor is what controls the voltage for speeds between off and high. So 1-4 will all be dead. 5 will be the only one that moves air.

Never did a blower on a pickup. Done them on the vans, but only the resistor on the pickup to date.

You can test the resistor with an Ohm Meter to be sure.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Philbilly2 said:


> Resistor will give you high or off.
> 
> The resistor is what controls the voltage for speeds between off and high. So 1-4 will all be dead. 5 will be the only one that moves air.
> 
> ...


I figured I could ohm test. 
Could possibly be the switch too. 
With the streets in the condition they're in, a wire could just be loose. 
Haven't looked into changing the blower, but hoping I don't have to take the dash apart. I'm thinking its under the dash on the passenger side. 
Older fords are easy. They're under the hood.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

EWSplow said:


> I figured I could ohm test.
> Could possibly be the switch too.
> With the streets in the condition they're in, a wire could just be loose.
> Haven't looked into changing the blower, but hoping I don't have to take the dash apart. I'm thinking its under the dash on the passenger side.
> Older fords are easy. They're under the hood.


If I recall, you pop the glove box out and it all drops out under the dash.

What year is the truck? I might have a few dash switches laying around my junk pile if it is that.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Philbilly2 said:


> If I recall, you pop the glove box out and it all drops out under the dash.
> 
> What year is the truck? I might have a few dash switches laying around my junk pile if it is that.


Looks like you drop a panel under the dash and it's in there. 
06 2500.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Philbilly2 said:


> What year is the truck? I might have a few dash switches laying around my junk pile if it is that.


It's under that old ultramount kit there on the left


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

If memory serves me. Remove the glove box, then a cover, the motor is there. Test light or volt meter, see what you got. If you have voltage, test the ground circuit.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Now I'm baffled. 
No power to the fuses, the 30a htr/ac in the cab or the 40a under the hood.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Post the year and model, mabey one of us has a wiring diagram.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Randall Ave said:


> Post the year and model, mabey one of us has a wiring diagram.


O6 2500HD. 6.0 gas.
AC compressor works.
I can hear the heat/ defrost door moving when I switch that.

Dumb question, but could it be in the ignition switch? It used to be a little finicky at the ignition switch, but that fixed itself and everything else related to that works.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Edit. Now I have 12v at the blower wiring, but no fan blowing. I guess I'll pull the blower out.


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## JoeRagMan (Nov 5, 2018)

South Main Auto on YouTube has a great video on testing a blower motor. Eric O is the best.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Update; it was the blower.
They actually come out easy. 
Remove panel on passenger side under glove box, 2 screws. 
The resistor and blower are in there. 2 screws on the resistor. The blower is a twist lock, you just turn it clockwise and it drops out. Plug the new one back in, push it up and twist counterclockwise. 
My old one was a little hard to twist, so knowing it was bad, I used a big channel lock. 
I tested it with 12v directly to the plug.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

EWSplow said:


> Update; it was the blower.
> They actually come out easy.
> Remove panel on passenger side under glove box, 2 screws.
> The resistor and blower are in there. 2 screws on the resistor. The blower is a twist lock, you just turn it clockwise and it drops out. Plug the new one back in, push it up and twist counterclockwise.
> ...


Good job, your hired.


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