# Sno Way harness trouble



## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

Plow quit, I narrowed it to wirless control module. 370 bucks later plow goes up, left and right as it should. But is wont go back down????

Started messing with wire harness, and when I wiggle large gray harness plug the plow drops to the shop floor. 

Any ideas, new wiring harness or can I fix what I have. It doesnt look bad at all.

Thanks, Morgan


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Check to be sure all the pins are properly locked in the plug. Could be you have a floater not making contact.

What color are the coils on the pump black, blue or a combination of the two?


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*coils*

The coils on top? Each position has a red coil.

I was looking at the plug, how do they sanp in or out. I am wondering about solder connecttions, but will make sure they are seated first.

Older MT model plow, probably 8 years old. Lightly used in my driveway and business parking lot.

I am guessing nothing is plugged in th elines or it wouldnt have dropped to shop floor when I pressed button, I hear it click and then wiggle gray plug and down it goes...


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

http://www.snoway.com/service/Updates/97101522B.pdf

this is not the exact pug but the assembly is the same. check and make sure all the wires are firmly seated and will not pull out.


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

My plug is different but have checked and they are all seated. 

The part number for this harness is 96105130


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

OK that has been replaced by the 96108247 but regardless look for a bad connection in the plug from either side. 

Clean all the ground while you are at it. the unit is controlled on the ground side.


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*WIring harness*

Thanks I will post what happens in a bit.

Morgan


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*plow wont go down*

Well,

Dealer gave me a wiring harness, switched them out and can not get plow to lower at all. Can not repeat what was possible before???weird

Thus far have replaced wireless module, wiring harness and still no lower.

DP off, havent tried with it on??????


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

:laughing::laughing:

OK lets review

When you try to drop the blade does the "B" coil(blue and white wire) have magnetism? If no does it have 12 volts to the red/white wire? if yes do you have 12 volts at the blue/white wire. If yes, attach a ground to the terminal the blue/white was attached to, careful it will drop if it is an electric/control issue.

Let me know.


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*mt sno-way*

Ok, I am just getting ready to leave office and I will dig back into it.

To review: Yesterday, I testing at "B" 
Had 12V at red/white on coil 
and when I triggered down on remote I had 12v at the other side of blue/wh side of coil.

I got you: I will go chasis ground to coil at the bl/wh wire location after disconnnecting bl/wh wire. This should trigger for plow to drop.

I will respond in about 40-45 minutes.

Thanks, Morgan

By the way the dealer in Fairbanks is pretty cool. I bought the wireless controler yesterday, since the older one would not program. He verified that. When I called this mroning for the harness, he said come get it I guess he gave it to me since I spent so much yesterday. Great guy.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

You understand low side switching?/ you should have 12 volts at both terminals on the plow until you engage the function then the test light should go out because you activate the unit by providing a ground. you're going to manually override the control.


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*Grounding "B"*

Yes 12V at RD/WH
Yes 12V at Bl/WH

Removed Bl/WH

Ground to terminal (BL/WH) and plow does lower?


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*magnetism???*

Also I noticed there is no magnetism on "B" anytime.

But:

When I press down on the remote, there is magnetism at "F"

when I press up the magnetism goes away.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

So when you ground the bl w/wh wire going to the "B" coil the plow drops?

If yes then we know the coil/valve are working properly. Next step check the continuity of the Bl/w wire. disconnect the receiver module and using your multi meter check the Bl w/wh wire for continuity. 

Yes both the "B" and "F" need to be charged for lower/float.

does it lower under down pressure?


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*toruble shooting continues*

BL/WH wire is good tested with multimeter.

PLow does not drop in DP mode.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Multimeter between the red w/white and blue w/white wire. you should not have power until you drop the blade. do you get voltage?


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*voltage test*

Disconnected RD/WH and BL/WH wires from red coil.

Put multimeter probes in RD/WH and BL/WH wires 
No voltage

Pressed down on remote
No voltage.

I am starting to think I have purchased a bad wirelss module???


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Something is wrong. have you considered taking it to the dealer that sold you the componets? Perhaps they have a test unit if only another receiver to throw in the unit. You've proven the unit is hydraulically correct. It has to be on the control side. The only untested component is the control.


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*To the dealer we go*

Thanks for all the help. I am taking it to dealer monday.

Hopefully he cna figure out whats up.

The wireless controller has acted the same the enitre time, so I am guessing that one has issues.

Hope he is reasonable about it.

Have a great evening


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## mboatman (Dec 16, 2011)

*Wiring update "FIXED IT"*

All,

Well after starting over and working through it one more time from the ground up, I noticed one little tiny strand of copper straying from the back of the plug on the "Brand New Wireless Module". 















Well this strand just so happpened to belong to the BL/WH wire. Gave it a tiny itcypitzy tug and out it came. Apperently it did not get seated all the way in the pin before crimping. 
I simply disassembled the plug, removed the pin being very careful not to disturb the others. You can pop off the orange piece on the front of plug, look inside and you can see the locking mechanism, I unlocked it very carrefully and pushed the pin out the back of the plug with a touch pick.

I stopped part way and took photos, you cna see the pin just starting out teh back of the plug.

I straightened out the wires, heated the pin with soldering iron, droped a very little pit of solder in back of pin, inserted wire.

Checked my work with a small tug, inserted pin back in grey plug, reassembled it plug.

Installed module and everything works great. Just finished the business driveway and the house driveway. No issues.

Thanks Basher for all your input. Just thought I'd share what I found incase someone else had the same problem.

I will be sharing with dealer what I found incase he has customers that are not as relentless as I. Still a great guy and I am confident that he would do right by the whole thing. KOOODOOOES to the Fairbanks Alaska SNo Way dealer.

I have attached photos.

Regards, Morgan


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