# Hpop?? 2006 ford f350 diesel problem



## mass1589 (Jan 24, 2011)

Heyy guys im looking at a diesel f350 2006. It has the 6.0l.... The guy is telln me it needs work, the hpop needs work? 

I have no idea what that is or what tpe of money ide have to throw into it. The truck has 180k but is loaded fr options and priced cheap. It would only be used for a plow truck not a daily driver.... 

So has anyone dealt with the hpop and can explain it to me?


----------



## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

Depends.

There is a crapload of stuff that can go wrong with the system. Some easy and relatively cheap, others not so much. 

You need to get more info.


----------



## alldayrj (Feb 28, 2010)

How much is the truck? Hpop is high pressure oil pump. Its a lot of labor and usually you end up doing an egr delete and oil cooler while you're that deep in the motor. Could be a couple thou


----------



## mass1589 (Jan 24, 2011)

They are askin 6500


----------



## mass1589 (Jan 24, 2011)

Im now informed its the sts fitting in the hpop?


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

You'll be into it for a couple grand of work. Do the HPOP, EGR Delete, and Bullet Proof Diesel Oil Cooler. While you've got the cab off, a set of Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets and ARP head studs would be in order as well. 

The 6.0L's HPOP is very oil sensitive, it's important to keep on on oil and filter changes with top of the line products, or it'll need the same work this truck needs now.


----------



## mass1589 (Jan 24, 2011)

thanks for the response guys....by a couple grand worth of work are you guys thinking 2000 or 3000 or ???


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

you'll have 1500-2000 in just the upgrade parts, I'm not sure what the HPOP cost.


----------



## mass1589 (Jan 24, 2011)

wow ..... i searched online and found some prices anywhere from 900- 2900 for the hpop repair. but this guy is telling me its the stc fitting inside the hpop. so maybe i dont need to replace the entire hpop and instead maybe just replace the stc fitting?


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

No idea, I've never gotten that deep into the 6.0, I avoided the problems and bought a Dodge.


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

http://innovativediesel.com/

call Eric


----------



## fatheadon1 (Dec 27, 2007)

I have been that far into a 6.0. I would first run a oasis report on the truck this will give you it service history of what's been done to the truck over its life time. If the report comes back that the truck has had problems I'd walk away if it clean buy the truck. The high pressure pump is 1000 bucks in parts if you do the work yourself this includes the ipr Sensor and STc fitting. You can youtube 6.0 stc fitting and there is videos showing what's involved. Its doable if you have Patients and a friend to give you a hand.


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

http://powerstrokenation.com/


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

For 1200.00 I bought the Bullet proof diesel kit. It came with all items needed to replace the STC fitting with the new style connector. it also came with a new EGR cooler tube as I did not do a delete. I got a new OEM oil cooler with the kit too. I did the whole shebang in about 16-18 hours taking time to eat, go to store etc. Easy stuff to do on your own.

When you take out the STC fitting it will have a ton of play in it if it is leaking that bad. The new one is a screw in type that is installed using a jam nut and a jig to get the right meashurement.
Also a word of advice, If you are not going to daily drive the 6.0.....Stay away from it. Worst thing for that engine is sitting as the turbo vanes rust up etc...Best thing for it is to drive it like you stole it. AKA, dont baby it. 

























This last picture shows you the HPOP in back. The STC fitting is on the back of the pump.


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Fatheadon1 suggests an oasis report....If you supply the vin number, I can supply you with an Oasis report by email....courtesy of being a Ford Tech.


----------



## fatheadon1 (Dec 27, 2007)

Ill add if you or anyone you know can weld you can buy to freeze out plugs weld them in the egr cooler then fill the plug with weld so it takes the heat and wam you just saved 250 bucks for an egr delete. An if you ever go threw a road side Emissions check your egr system is still there an you pass all the while its plugged and can't blow or leak


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

07PSDCREW;1553354 said:


> For 1200.00 I bought the Bullet proof diesel kit. It came with all items needed to replace the STC fitting with the new style connector. it also came with a new EGR cooler tube as I did not do a delete. I got a new OEM oil cooler with the kit too. I did the whole shebang in about 16-18 hours taking time to eat, go to store etc. Easy stuff to do on your own.
> 
> When you take out the STC fitting it will have a ton of play in it if it is leaking that bad. The new one is a screw in type that is installed using a jam nut and a jig to get the right meashurement.
> Also a word of advice, If you are not going to daily drive the 6.0.....Stay away from it. Worst thing for that engine is sitting as the turbo vanes rust up etc...Best thing for it is to drive it like you stole it. AKA, dont baby it.
> ...


arp studz and all , thats some real sheet rite there . betcha it runs 14's or better. the mods are endless


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

No mods Spool it up, Just fixing Fords **** up


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

07PSDCREW;1553372 said:


> No mods Spool it up, Just fixing Fords **** up


rodger that


----------



## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

I love the coozie 07PSDCREW!


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Thanks, Comes with the kit! Also, Mnglocker mentions doing studs while cab is off...the cab does not need to come off nor do any firewall modifications need to be done to complete the stud job. I'm just saying this as I do these on a regular basis. If you get a 6.4 than yes, the cab is designed to remove easily to do major engine work.


----------



## fatheadon1 (Dec 27, 2007)

07psdcrew that's cheating I had to do it in my back yard with a bucket truck







just kidding looking like your a first class Mechanic


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Thas some backyahhd inginuity right thur!! Nothin like doin it yourself though! Then you save the cash and dont have to pay me or the dealer!
Video of startup after dissassembly....


----------



## fatheadon1 (Dec 27, 2007)

Heres the shot story behind my 6.0 rebulid i started it on a lift tore it down with a friend in 6 hrs with pulling the cab then lowered the cab pushed the truck outside a friends shop while i awaited the heads getting checked. Then a week later when i had all the parts the owner for the shop no showed on me and after a month of him blowing off my calls and attempts to get the truck back in the shop to put it back together i had the truck towed to my house and pulled the cab with a buddy bucket. i was leery of doing this but ya gotta do what ya gotta do when your truck is in shambles. 3000 miles later it runs like a top minus some faulty injector seals from warens diesel


----------



## Kobie (Sep 2, 2011)

Well here is what I just learned about his problem today.

I was also losing oil pressure at idle and check engine light for the last month and I swore I would have to do a tear down to replace th STC fitting.

I spoke my Machnic who us to work as a Ford Tec and he explained to me that he thought it was the Oil filter,He believes that they warp and I forget what he said exactly,But that they tend warp and not touch something and that is what causes the OS to drop.

Now I thought he was full of crap and walked away,But I had to have my Truck Inspected and told them to change the oil and replace the filter.

I'll be damn!!! Everything is back to normal and it is running better also,I only had a few rough starts and ran alittle rough over the last few weeks.

I can't explain it,But I'm just relaying the message.If anything changes I'll let you guys know.

It must be a Ford oil filter (Motercraft I think)


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Ha ha ...I just had one of those come through the shop. At the bottom of the housing is a check valve. When the filter is threaded in, it closes it. Aftermarket filters don't allow for this and either break off the spring loaded valve or miss it completely. It is there to empty the oil reservoir when changing filters.... But if it gets broken, oil will bypass and go directly back to the crankcase, therefore causing low oil psi.

This pic is exactly how the filter came out!


----------



## alldayrj (Feb 28, 2010)

And thats why i only use motorcraft. What oil do you recommend 07PSDcrew? I have been using the motorcrft oil but i have a lot of stiction on cold starts


----------



## Kobie (Sep 2, 2011)

07PSDCREW;1557982 said:


> Ha ha ...I just had one of those come through the shop. At the bottom of the housing is a check valve. When the filter is threaded in, it closes it. Aftermarket filters don't allow for this and either break off the spring loaded valve or miss it completely. It is there to empty the oil reservoir when changing filters.... But if it gets broken, oil will bypass and go directly back to the crankcase, therefore causing low oil psi.
> 
> This pic is exactly how the filter came out!


Thanks!!

My Mechanic showed me a filter that he replaced the day before and was nowhere near as bad as the pic that you showed,It was installed in a friends truck who I didn't get a chance to talk to.I'm not saying that some Fords might need to have the STC fitting replaced but that some might be installing the fitting when the do not have to.I'M NOT A MECHANIC AT ALL!!

The OP might get a good deal on a Truck that needs a oil change and filter??


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

alldayrj;1557991 said:


> And thats why i only use motorcraft. What oil do you recommend 07PSDcrew? I have been using the motorcrft oil but i have a lot of stiction on cold starts


I personally run Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 5w40 full synthetic/motorcraft filters. The injectors will thank you for the thinner oil on cold starts. Rotella T6 synthetic 5-40 is good too. If you prefer motorcraft oils, they offer a 5w40 synthetic also. 
I change oil at 5k And my oil is still a dark brown instead of black.


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Alldayrj....on the cold start issue.... There is a PCM and FICM update available that came out sometime in early 06 that drastically improved cold start performance. If you have the update...your truck should swipe the VGT every so often while idling. Usually right after startup, and then every hour or so. This is noticed in the Exaust note. It will go from a whistle to a rumble back to whistle. If you have this update and still have cold start issues, I would look into an FICM repair. The solder joints go bad inside the FICM. You have to verify 48v or better at KOEO, crank , and KOER. 
A buddy of mines truck was running like a bag of asses until it warmed up. I took the FICM out and resoldered the joints and it ran mint. 

I realize now this post is mute if you don't have a 6.0 I don't see any sigs on mobile to see what rig you have.


----------



## alldayrj (Feb 28, 2010)

It is a 6.0. I actually pulled the ficm last week and had my buddy solder it. Its much better but i still have to let the truck idle for 5 mins after a true cold start or it has no throttle response. 
I think it has never been reflashed because the previous owner never took it to the dealer. Will the reflash throw a code since my egr is deleted?


----------



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

It may or may not throw a P0401 for an insufficent flow. If you are using a tuner to hide it now....than it shouldn't show up with the new strategy. Also there's sometimes a few other places in the FICM that can go bad...maybe try swapping a FICM or getting ahold of a known working one and try it. At least that will eliminate it. That thing lives its life sitting on top of a heavy duty vibrator, anything is possible to rattle appart.


----------



## scottydosnntkno (Jan 4, 2010)

alldayrj;1561804 said:


> It is a 6.0. I actually pulled the ficm last week and had my buddy solder it. Its much better but i still have to let the truck idle for 5 mins after a true cold start or it has no throttle response.
> I think it has never been reflashed because the previous owner never took it to the dealer. Will the reflash throw a code since my egr is deleted?


Order som Archoil 9100 from amazon. ~60 bucks for the 16oz container. Dump the whole thing in your oil and you should see a drastic difference within a day or two of driving.

i swore up and down that it was snake oil and there was no way that it would work etc etc etc.

i bought some and put it in and i'll be damned its like a brand new engine and starts/drives like its 100 degrees out all the time.

cleared the stiction right up. no more no-power driving until the temps get to 150 degrees, no more blue smoke when stuck in 2/3rd gear, etc etc.


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

07PSDCREW;1561830 said:


> It may or may not throw a P0401 for an insufficent flow. If you are using a tuner to hide it now....than it shouldn't show up with the new strategy. Also there's sometimes a few other places in the FICM that can go bad...maybe try swapping a FICM or getting ahold of a known working one and try it. At least that will eliminate it. That thing lives its life sitting on top of a heavy duty vibrator, anything is possible to rattle appart.


im on #2 . they need strong fresh batteries them 6.0 's for proper 48 ish voltage .

If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be either the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is in the glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM.

The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running "extra" current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM's reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.

Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM's only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so. The "first" updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F, meaning every time you started the truck if it was shut off for more than 10 minutes! Ford's newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that's still a lot of current draw.

Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.

Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more "intelligent" than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits. However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps-it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.

If this was all that happened, things wouldn't be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection. The FICM's 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out, i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on. If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start. If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts. If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire. While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value. For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.

How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)

1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.

4 screw FICM

4. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right-closest to the driver's side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good. 
5. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

The procedure is the same for FICM's with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.

It's not very clear here, which screw you need to test on the 7 pin units, so I'm adding this in. When you remove the cover, you will see 2 rows of screws. The lower row has 3 screws, the upper row has 4 screws. You want to test at the screw in the row of 4 that is closest to the passenger side fender. Opposite of the 4 pin. I hope this clears this up.

7 screw FICM

If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition. If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.


----------



## GMD1984 (Jan 19, 2009)

i just change the fitting on my 06 6.0L when the fitting let go it cracked the rear cove as well. had to pull the trany to change the rear cove its a quick easy job, to do the fitting it took me less then 5 hrs with pulling the trany and re install and changing the fitting. and the cab on the 06 comes off in about 45 min i did to pull it for this job


----------



## Spool it up (Oct 30, 2012)

they just never seem to go back on as easy and seat properly on the rail with a coffee can full of nuts and bolts .


----------



## CLSCAPER (Dec 7, 2010)

Just to add to this post another opinion on 6.0 engines I've owned two of them and still have one but they both have the cabs in the air a few times. I still own a 2004 dump truck and I had a 04' pickup both have had new turbos, the dump truck has had 2 new turbos, a transmission because the first turbo blew apart and distroyed the transmission. the EGR system is yes the biggest problem i see with these engines, after learning of the years i've had a few good years without problems. I always treat the fuel with a lubrecant, and keep the filters fress this seems to help with the EGR problems not perfect but it helps. The turbo problems are fixed because i learned how this engine likes to run. Yes it needs a good run to clean things out put when empty and not pushing it. My dump truck is good for 65 MPH if i push it past it the turbo will begin to gasp and thats what starts the problems. Basicly you cant drive the 6.0powerstroke like the 7.3 Powerstroke which could cruise at 90MPH all day with a load. I Sold my pickup truck because it had so many problems with the EGR system and others it speant weeks in the shop again and again. I traded it in once the warrenty was over (for more then I paid) and bought a brand new gas F350 which does everything the diesel did just o little slower at times. I like the engine, i would consider buying a used truck with the engine only because i know what to expect. I would like to bullet proof the engine in my dump truck because it is now starting to smoke and have prblems again, but i don't know if the truck can last as long as a strong running diesel engine.


----------

