# Plow won't move! Help please



## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

1997 f350 7.3l diesel . Have a 8 ft ss fisher straight blade 3 plug with isolation module. After sitting for 3 months while having a bunch of work done on the truck. Went to move plow and nothing no movement at all no noise . No plow lights nothing. Joystick lights up. Swapped joysticks with a new one still nothing. All pins are intack and greased at grill. All grounds and connections at soliniod are cleaned and dielectric greased. Hooked up jumper cables to pump and truck and pump made plow jerk. I'm at a loss and really can't afford to keep throwing parts at it. I'm also very new to plows and extremely new to anything electrical. Any help greatly appreciated .


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Double check all the plow fuses first. 
Is the positive and ground for the plow tightened at the battery?

What was done to the truck?


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

How many fuses are there? I found 2 or 3 at the isolation module? All wires are as tight as I can get them I re tightened the wires at the battery and solinoids. Replaced the fenders,rocker pannels.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Either 3_4 
Double check your solenoid wiring, if you didn't put it back properly, your not getting power


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Get a wiring diagram, you didn't connect a power, or a ground when you put it together.


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

Where would I get a diagram? Every possible wire is hooked up. I even tried switching things around couple different ways


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)




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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

This is how it's hooked up. Top big red wire goes to positive battery terminal.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Go to the western web site. It's all there in documents. Go to parts and service, then service publications library. I think your missing the small ground on the solenoid relay.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Short the two large terminals on solenoid with screwdriver, stay away from the plow. Does plow motor run? Yes, check for signal at solenoid with test light. No power at signal you have wiring issue. Do have power replace solenoid. Motor does not run when sorting terminals and you do have power at signal wire test for power at the motor. No power, connection issue. Have power at motor, motor is shot. Pretty easy to troubleshoot with a test light, just follow the power from battery to plow.


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

Randall Ave said:


> Go to the western web site. It's all there in documents. Go to parts and service, then service publications library. I think your missing the small ground on the solenoid relay.


Where does the small ground attach to? The inner fender?


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

Also 2 questions looking at all the wireing scamadics online show the 2 big red wires In oposit positions then where I have them would this make any difference? Second questions is I have a small red/green wire attached on the top post with the big red wire but none of the diagrams show that wire anywhere?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Do you have a test light, and know how to use it? On the motor relay, on the small terminals, what color wires are on those? Take a clean pictures of that. Not from the side.


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

I do not have a test light and not sure how to use one. Here's a cleaner picture they are red/brown orange/black


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Here it is


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

The blk/og is ground.


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

dieselss said:


> The blk/og is ground.


. This site won't let me upload a picture says file too big so I will try to explain best I can I will start with small terminals one wire is red/brown other wire looks orange/black but it's faded and has yellow on it aswell. There's another orange/black wire that runs from the negitive battery cable and into the harness connected to the soliniod it loops back in and runs over to the drivers side? The top big terminal has a big red wire that runs to the positive battery cable and there's a red/green wire attached to the top big terminal as well. Bottom big terminal has a big red wire that runs to the grill plug. I hope this makes sence to somone


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

No one has this plow setup and can snap a pic of how there wired? That wire scamatic above is like reading Spanish to a guy like me that has no clue about anything electrical? Really not sure what I have backwards here but no wires were removed while truck was being worked on so everything is attached but must be backwards I tried switching things around on the soliniod couple weeks back still nothing


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I'm not busting here. If you cannot use a test light. Get someone who can. Look at the diagram Dieselss posted. It's all there.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Where is the plow ground wire hooked up?
The 4g black?
Did you remove the battery(s) while doing the repairs?


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## Kevin_NJ (Jul 24, 2003)

Randall Ave said:


> I'm not busting here. If you cannot use a test light. Get someone who can. Look at the diagram Dieselss posted. It's all there.


Agreed. You can also make things much worse by just "switching things around".


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

dieselss said:


> Where is the plow ground wire hooked up?
> The 4g black?
> Did you remove the battery(s) while doing the repairs?


I have 2 black/orange wires? Not sure which is ground but one is hooked up to the small terminal and the other is hooked up to the negitive battery cable and runs to the drivers side. All work done was with battery's removed from what I know


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

The main big black cable, is that hooked up to the battery negative?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Jacob where are you located. Maybe someone can swing by and help


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## Kevin_NJ (Jul 24, 2003)

Based on the OP's earlier thread, it sounds like the truck's PO did a hack job. Could be anything wrong.

http://www.plowsite.com/threads/new-to-forum-plow-trouble-help-please.167278/


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Totally forgot about that. Seems like the same problem that never fixed itself.
Good detective work k


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

dieselss said:


> The main big black cable, is that hooked up to the battery negative?
> 
> View attachment 166121


Yea the main black power cable that runs through the grill is hooked up to the battery negitive with a small black/orange wire aswell


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

Ooops forgot I had already started a thread a while back I resolved the joystick turning off when I push the buttons issue it was he ground was not cleaned up joystick stays on now just won't lift or move blade


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Sorry but gotta agree with Randell,, if don't have a test light, can't use one, no idea how to read schematics and can't upload pics helping is going to be next impossible. Still haven't heard if you can get motor to run. Did you try jumping the large terminals? Did you clean bumper connections? Have you tried another solenoid? A lot these tests are incredibly simple to do. Thinking that we will be able to fix your problem with out feedback from on different tests will never happen. So go to youtube and see if you can learn to use a test light, trust me they are very simple tools. Then go buy one.


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Sorry but gotta agree with Randell,, if don't have a test light, can't use one, no idea how to read schematics and can't upload pics helping is going to be next impossible. Still haven't heard if you can get motor to run. Did you try jumping the large terminals? Did you clean bumper connections? Have you tried another solenoid? A lot these tests are incredibly simple to do. Thinking that we will be able to fix your problem with out feedback from on different tests will never happen. So go to youtube and see if you can learn to use a test light, trust me they are very simple tools. Then go buy one.


Kimber750 - thought i had mentioned in the first statement that I used jumper cables to test motor and worked fine, also tested ground using cables. Connections are clean, tight and greased. That scamatic that was posted shows 4 wires hooked up to the soliniod I have 5 wires hooked up to it? As shown in the picture I posted the truck is 20 plus years old I can't get a cleaner picture. I know how to use a test light, but as to what I'm testing is very unclear. If somone had the same or very similar setup and could post a pic it would rule out if I have a wire in the wrong place? The plow worked absolutely fine till soliniod was removed to replace fender so not sure how the rest of the system would be affected just sitting in the driveway?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

kjacobs said:


> Kimber750 - thought i had mentioned in the first statement that I used jumper cables to test motor and worked fine, also tested ground using cables. Connections are clean, tight and greased. That scamatic that was posted shows 4 wires hooked up to the soliniod I have 5 wires hooked up to it? As shown in the picture I posted the truck is 20 plus years old I can't get a cleaner picture. I know how to use a test light, but as to what I'm testing is very unclear. If somone had the same or very similar setup and could post a pic it would rule out if I have a wire in the wrong place? The plow worked absolutely fine till soliniod was removed to replace fender so not sure how the rest of the system would be affected just sitting in the driveway?


Schematic shows 5 wires. Two large red, red/grn, blk/org, brn/red. Testing is simple. Check for power coming into solenoid from battery. Look for power coming out on large terminal going to plow when a movement other than down is requested. Should also have power at brn/red, this is signal wire that activates solenoid. If you have power at both of these you have a wiring/connection issue. If you dont have power at large terminal but do have it at brn/red solenoid is shot. Until these tests are done everything being offered here is just guessing. Your solenoid appears to be wired correctly.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

The schematic DOES show 5, and why do you need a picture when the schematic is showing the exact wiring you need. A 20yr old truck has nothing to do with the tea in china

Using a test light is easy as said, your checking for power and ground at certain points to see if wires are hooked up right.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

You have 5 wires hooked up, just like the diagram shows.

The fact that nothing works, plow lights or movement tends to lead toward a ground issue.

These guys have already told you how to figure this out.

(1) Make sure the large ground cable coming from the grill connector is connected to battery. (Use your test light to test the grill plug from the negative on the grill plug, back to 12v+ on the battery. This will confirm if your main plow plug is in fact grounded properly)

(2) Take a screwdriver and arc across the two posts of the motor solenoid. If the plow motor jumps, then your solenoid is most likely wired correct, but, your motor solenoid is junk. They are $10 or so. Get a new one, and switch the wires over one lug at a time.
OR:
(2 1/2) If you have someone else around that can run the controller in the cab, take your test light, go to your two plug at the grill, and test across the two plugs of the grill connection while someone requests a command in direction from the controller. If you do not see 12v+ at your test light, your solenoid is junk.

By the looks of your motor solenoid, I am guessing that thing is junk. It looks like original equipment. This is a common wear and tear item on a plow truck. They typically do not last much more than a season or two on commercial snow removal trucks. I have always kept extra solenoids in all of my trucks in a "break down" kit as they do out and your done for the night if you cannot get one at 2am.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Philbilly2 said:


> You have 5 wires hooked up, just like the diagram shows.
> 
> The fact that nothing works, plow lights or movement tends to lead toward a ground issue.
> 
> ...


Didn't notice that nothing worked.

OP, All plugs are connected? You said control lights up but does it power on? Do turn signals work? Do truck lights work properly?


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Didn't notice that nothing worked.
> 
> OP, All plugs are connected? You said control lights up but does it power on? Do turn signals work? Do truck lights work properly?


All plugs connected, the control pads backlight Is always on. yea when I push the power button on the control it lights up, when I try to turn plow lights on I get nothing. Not sure on signals honestly didn't check. I believe when I got the truck when all hooked up normally the plow lights would stay off and regular lights would stay on till I put high beams on this would activate the plow lights.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you check all th plow fuses with a test light by chance? not sure if we already covered that or not.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

dieselss said:


> Did you check all th plow fuses with a test light by chance? not sure if we already covered that or not.


Test light operation isn't in his skill set portfolio.... Pay attention......:laugh::laugh:


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

kjacobs said:


> All plugs connected, the control pads backlight Is always on. yea when I push the power button on the control it lights up, when I try to turn plow lights on I get nothing. Not sure on signals honestly didn't check. I believe when I got the truck when all hooked up normally the plow lights would stay off and regular lights would stay on till I put high beams on this would activate the plow lights.


Plow lights only came on when high beams were turned on? What do you try to turn plow lights on, they should come on by themselves. Do you have a switch or something? Sounds like you have some serious wiring problems. The system know the plow is attached through the 11pin light harness. There is ground that loops back to module. You still haven't said were you are located. Most likely you are going to need someone with some knowledge of these plows to come look at what you have. Or you are gonna have to take to the dealer. Obviously it was not working fine before fenders were replaced. Sounds like whoever installed the wiring was a hack.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

It seems he isn't willing to try to learn or even try.

So do you have a volt/ ohm meter?

Can't figure out or learn how to use a test light.
Can't fallow a color code on the wires from the schematic.
Can't cheek a fuse.

Can you trace along the wiring loom for any loose wires?

You said you made it move, so the pump motor works

it doesn't matter where the two larg wires go, ether post is fine.
Replace the solenoid it's cheap and there maybe other issues too.

Every one was just trying to get you to test it to se if it is good or not,
As your not abel the next choice it to throw parts at it

Now you say it worked before you replaced the quarter panel
Is it grounded? Well? Or is it covered in paint?
Could the loose wires be in this area? Sure.

Headlights When you or they replaced this fender,
Was the headlight adapter messed with.?

Just throw it in the back of your truck and pay the plow dealer to fix it.....


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

And back light on control should be off when plow is unhooked or ignition is turned off.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

SnoFarmer said:


> It seems he isn't willing to try to learn or even try.
> 
> So do you have a volt/ ohm meter?
> 
> ...


Pretty sure head lights need to be removed to replace finders. Anything could of happened to wiring. Signals don't need module powered for them to work. So if he doesn't have signals on plow he has a wiring issue with light harness.


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## kjacobs (Jul 22, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Pretty sure head lights need to be removed to replace finders. Anything could of happened to wiring. Signals don't need module powered for them to work. So if he doesn't have signals on plow he has a wiring issue with light harness.


 Well I'll start with saying thank you to the few that were trying to actually help I'm no expert and I stated that from the start, I'm going to pickup a multi meter when I got off work tommarow morning and start doing some of the tests the HELPFUL FEW recommended. this site is obviously filled with people that have smart ass comments. Like I'm not willing to learn? Why would I come here seeking help? Or thats not within his skill level? Again thanks to the few that took the time. I will seek advice elsewhere from now on


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

BUFF said:


> Test light operation isn't in his skill set portfolio.... Pay attention......:laugh::laugh:


That's not right, you need to Mentor him.
,........:waving:

Help, yea free, at that, you just seem, well unwilling to learn how to use a test light,
Listen to what was being asked of you, to thoes who were trying to help.
So when it looks like your just yanking the chain, the dogs bark.

Don't let our ,,, well humor chase you away as we all will help if we can,
But you don't need all of us when you were in good hands to start with.
and welcome To PlowSite .


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

SnoFarmer said:


> That's not right, you need to Mentor him.
> ,........:waving:


The comment for Diesells
However for the OP viewing pleasure.......


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

BUFF said:


> The comment for Diesells
> However for the OP viewing pleasure.......


Wow, that was painful to watch. :hammerhead:


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

kimber750 said:


> Wow, that was painful to watch. :hammerhead:


But informative for those with little to no experience.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Well I've seen much worse help threads here, everyone did what they could. But I do not think any of us has the time to teach basic electronics theory. I did not think it went that bad, we did not get any warnings from Mr. delete.


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## snowtorture (Jun 29, 2011)

If you aren't skilled in electrical work, it's money well spent getting a professional in there. You might (will) pay more up front but can recoup when the snow hits the ground. No working plow=no income. Just my 2 cents.


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