# tilt trailer questions



## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

I'm tired of dealing with ramps and having the rails around my trailers when trying to fork something up and over. Not to mention the new skid loader is too heavy for my current trailer. I'm looking at tilt trailers. I think I found a great deal on a 20' tilt trailer. I've never used one or even been around one until I started looking. This particular trailer is a 15,000 gvw for sale at $3,400.00. Is this a good deal? The guy said it retails for $6500. It looks BRAND NEW. I have a couple questions for guys that use these. This one isn't hydraulic or electric. You just drive up and go slow at the tilting point and it comes down on its own. Is this a good system or will it have a tendency to SLAM down when loading and giving me the oh $HI% feeling when unloading. Would it be better to go with an electric or hydraulic tilt? Thanks for your input.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

I bought one last spring and couldn't be happier with it. Gravity feed is is fine and will only slam down if you're showboating. That's a great price..snap it up you won't be sorry.Mine was a year old and galvanized Thought it was a good deal at $5600.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

You'll like an elec/hyd one much better, but its a good price if its nice. 15k seems odd though


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Yes... mines 14k. 7000lb axles


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## Greenery (Jun 23, 2007)

got-h2o;1438025 said:


> 15k seems odd though


That's what I thought also. I have a trailer rated at 15k with 7000 lb axles, I fortunately was able to get the manufacture to provide me with a new manufacturer tag with a 14k rating which put my combo at 26000 even, so no need for a CDL.

I would absolutely hate having rails along the sides of a skid trailer, that alone would be reason enough to replace it.

Those tilt beds look nice, the only concern I would have is if you want to set a pallet of sod or something on the front. is there enough room to not interfere with the tilt function?


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## Winterized (Mar 3, 2007)

I have never owned a big tandem axel ...tilt... trailer, so forgive me if I sound stupid.

It would seem very awkward to me that some... lift the front axel off the ground to tilt / load??
Those would not seem ideal.

That is a BEAUTIFUL trailer Mr. Markus has!!! 
Seems you MUST have the stationary bed section in front to get the proper balance and tracking unless you have the power up and down feature.

Would like a #7000 tilt so I'm looking for more information on them too.


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## jkiser96 (Sep 19, 2006)

I have a Kauffman 14,000 pound trailer that has 8' stationary at the front & the back 14' tilts. This trailer is great for loading my mini or skid loader, it does have a hydraulic cylinder that cushions the drop when loading. I gave $3950 for mine brand new & have never regreted it a single day.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

greenery;1438047 said:


> That's what I thought also. I have a trailer rated at 15k with 7000 lb axles, I fortunately was able to get the manufacture to provide me with a new manufacturer tag with a 14k rating which put my combo at 26000 even, so no need for a CDL.
> 
> I would absolutely hate having rails along the sides of a skid trailer, that alone would be reason enough to replace it.
> 
> Those tilt beds look nice, the only concern I would have is if you want to set a pallet of sod or something on the front. is there enough room to not interfere with the tilt function?


The stationary part is 4ft. It's good for additional implements, you just have to think through what you're doing...if you exceed the 4ft just use the equipment to pull it off on your first unload.Pretty simple. when you see how easy they are you won't even consider power.


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## Mark Witcher (Feb 21, 2004)

The tilt trailers work good for tractors,skids and such. But dont work very well for longer wheelbase things. Like a pickup. The bed will lower before the rear tires get on the trailer.


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

Mark Witcher;1438079 said:


> The tilt trailers work good for tractors,skids and such. But dont work very well for longer wheelbase things. Like a pickup. The bed will lower before the rear tires get on the trailer.


This can be true but I have found it can still work in some cases. When the tranny went out on one of my trucks I was able to load it onto my tilt trailer. It was a '96 Dodge, extended cab, long bed. My trailer is a 20' deck; 4' static, 16' will tilt. If you have the cusioning cylinder, or rather a damper, you should be able to lock it up or down. Mine came with a hydraulic hose that connected the top and bottom of the damper. This line is the path for oil for the oil to go from one side of the damper piston to the other.The hose had an in-line valve in it. When the valve is shut it stops the flow of hydraulic oil from one side of the piston to the other which creats a hydraulic lock,which in turn, will not allow the deck to move. Once the truck is on the deck, assuming that the tilt portion of the deck will accept the wheel base of the truck, you can get out of the truck and open the valve. If the weight bias is to the front, which it better be (the trailer won't tilt, and even if it did the trailer would not be stable when towed), then the deck will go down to the transport position.
The tilt deck trailer, like the one pictured above, will lose some versatility because the wheel wells, or fenders, will make it so the loading and unloading, over the sides, of palletized items is not practical. Loading from the rear is not ideal either (though it can be done-see above). Another drawback is that it can be difficult to load when the deck is snow covered or icey. Chains on the skid or some sand on the deck will mitigate the problem. I carry a bucket with "play sand" in it.


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## onsight (Sep 13, 2007)

What do you guys think of these? http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T8


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## StuveCorp (Dec 20, 2005)

I've always had tilt trailers and love them compared to ramp trailers. You get use to them and 'know' how far to back up and it will very slowly set down. Mine has a cylinder that cushions it also. I have a Towmaster 10,000 pound tilt, its getting old but still pulls great. 

I used another contractors deckover tilt that had the powered electric and hated it. You had to power it down then drive on, park, then go power it down. They also have problems some time with the battery going dead. Just seems way to much hassle.


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

onsight;1438151 said:


> What do you guys think of these? http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T8


I have never had that small of a "deck over tilt". I would be afraid that the angle of the tilt would be steeper than I would want. Especially in the winter. Lower deck height=lower angle of approach, or less steep. It can be tough enough to climb onto the drop deck in the winter. Another thing that worries me about the PJ tilt (trust me I have one) is the latching mechanism. Right now mine is FUBAR and I have not yet figured out how to repair it. It clamps to the center, bottom, back side of the leading C channel on the tilt portion of the deck. The latch is connected to a foot pedal via round stock. It employs a linkage to get the pedal to "cam over" to lock into place. Introduction of mag-chloride and such has made it so the pedal no longer works. The linkage is now mangled. We currently use a chain, across the deck, to hold it in place while the trailer is empty. Even if it was working I still don't like the design because the deck can be lowered onto the closed mechanism (can you spell employees?) thus bending the C channel. As you can imagine this makes it very difficult to close the latch. I would like to use a different type of closure mechanism but the way the trailer is built (the frame is on the outside of the deck) makes most other mechanisms that I have seen un-practical.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

Mark Witcher;1438079 said:


> The tilt trailers work good for tractors,skids and such. But dont work very well for longer wheelbase things. Like a pickup. The bed will lower before the rear tires get on the trailer.


Oh really? Have u ever done it? I sure know I have and it works Great on a 22' tilt and load


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## Alpha Property (Jul 25, 2008)

I had a 99 GMC 1500 Ext short box on a 20ft tilt just last week, it worked pretty slick. defiantly an improvement over ramps


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

I think I'm more confused now. You guys bring a few facts that I didn't think about. I didn't think about a snow covered deck and the angle might make it difficult to climb. I don't like the thought of carrying play sand to get any equipment up onto the trailer. And I think a galvanized trailer would be great. It doesn't take long for steel to rust. I sandblasted and repainted one of the trailers this summer and that wasn't all that fun. But price comparison comes into play there. I also didn't think of having anything sitting on the front of the trailer and then that becoming an issue when loading or unloading the equipment.


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

At work we have 15 telt all Cronkite 12000# and love them. One thing to keep in mind is parts. Ridged sells a lot of trailer parts.
Try and stay a way from torsion axles. Yes they do ride better and sit lower. If it goes bad you need to replace the hole axle. 
On somuch on a spring axle. Just my 2¢ 

I love my Z


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## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

I love my 12ft, 10k low riding equipment trailer.

With the 16k truck I have, I'm at 26k total combined weight.

It is a pain to try and load multiple pieces on it, but my advantage is the drop sides on my my dump bed. Any other equipment can be loaded there and just my mini skid and backhoe attachment go on the trailer.

I don't have the hydraulic lift for it as it is manual, but I think I might get a bottle jack and modify up something for a manual jack lift for the trailer deck. That Way I can tilt it up in the air and load a mower easier in the summer if need be.

....


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## Greenmtboy (Jan 22, 2011)

White Gardens;1438572 said:


> It is a pain to try and load multiple pieces on it, but my advantage is the drop sides on my my dump bed. Any other equipment can be loaded there and just my mini skid and backhoe attachment go on the trailer.
> 
> ....


You beat me to it. That is why we will never own another one. If you want to load something on the front of the trailer that is wider then the stationary section, then your screwed if you want to load your skid on to. We have a 25 ton tilt with hyd. dampeners for the deck, the deck is not balanced right so you always have to use the piece of equipment to tilt it down and back up. Will say I do like it in the winter tho. You don't get that angle change like on beaver tails that cause track machines to rock. A little rock is all you need on a slippery deck and off you go!


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Kauffman makes a nice trailer. So does Rogers, Trail King and Appalacian. I have a 24' Appalacian deck over and couldn't be happier. Eventually we want a tilt bed but that pesky money factor always cones into play. If you can get this thing for $3500 write him a check. That's a screaming deal and he isn't lying, they go for $6000 or so. You will get used to the gravity tilt after the first couple of times.


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## Lugnut (Feb 25, 2006)

I prefer them over ramped trailers anyday excpet for the once in a while you want to load 2 smaller peices of equipment


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## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

Greenmtboy;1438594 said:


> You beat me to it. That is why we will never own another one. If you want to load something on the front of the trailer that is wider then the stationary section, then your screwed if you want to load your skid on to. We have a 25 ton tilt with hyd. dampeners for the deck, the deck is not balanced right so you always have to use the piece of equipment to tilt it down and back up. Will say I do like it in the winter tho. You don't get that angle change like on beaver tails that cause track machines to rock. A little rock is all you need on a slippery deck and off you go!


I don't have a stationary platform on my though, just the whole deck tilts as it's only a 12ft trailer. The only thing I might do is two things.

1.) Make a set of removable ramps for summertime work and the smaller equipment I sometimes deal with. This way I can have the best of both worlds.

2.) Make a rack on the front. I think I have just enough room to make a rack to hold my bucket for my machine, or smaller pieces of equipment.

As a whole though, I do prefer a tilt deck over a ramp system any day of the week.

.......


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

For what I do I like the tail gate trailers or ramps I haul many things 
I may haul my skidsteer plus a tractor at same time or skidsteer and pallets of something
Skidsteer and 2-3 ton gravel 
Haul 3 lawn mowers and might only need unload one
I see where tilt trailer would work if you only hauling one thing


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## StuveCorp (Dec 20, 2005)

I also have the contractors dropside truck as a tow vehicle so the trailer is just for the skid. I do want for my next trailer to have the stationary deck with tilt so attachments can be set up there.

I trailer my skid around for plowing and there have been nights the deck is icy, just have a little more momentum sometimes...


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

> For what I do I like the tail gate trailers or ramps I haul many things
> I may haul my skidsteer plus a tractor at same time or skidsteer and pallets of something
> Skidsteer and 2-3 ton gravel
> Haul 3 lawn mowers and might only need unload one
> I see where tilt trailer would work if you only hauling one thing


^^^^^^My tilt hauls 2 things just fine


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

So how do you get the 2nd jeep up on the tilt trailer? If the 1st jeep is loaded , that means the trailer is now laying flat.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

got-h2o;1438726 said:


> ^^^^^^My tilt hauls 2 things just fine


 see urs is a full tilt put 2-3 ton rock on the front and try load skidsteer on back ur rock be dump on the ground
I be afraid load my skid steer then try load my 4600 tractor at same time My skidsteer has park sideway of the front so have room to put 4600 on the back
or loading Lawn mowers with wet grass slime on tires try back them on to park sideways

Thats why i like the Tailgate or ramp trailers

I see from ur pics What a tilt trailer is good for is a Car hauler


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

DodgeBlizzard;1438733 said:


> So how do you get the 2nd jeep up on the tilt trailer? If the 1st jeep is loaded , that means the trailer is now laying flat.


Maybe you should read post number 10.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

Antlerart06;1438734 said:


> see urs is a full tilt put 2-3 ton rock on the front and try load skidsteer on back ur rock be dump on the ground
> I be afraid load my skid steer then try load my 4600 tractor at same time My skidsteer has park sideway of the front so have room to put 4600 on the back
> or loading Lawn mowers with wet grass slime on tires try back them on to park sideways
> 
> ...


It was my Bobcat trailer till I sold the machine. Never had an issue with hauling forks, bucket, push box, etc. I wouldn't haul rock on the trailer anyway.....that's what the trucks are for. Although all of the chains, binders, etc stay put so I really don't see it dumping a load too easily. I always kept it salted in the winter too so I never had a problem with it being slick loading as was stated in a previous post. I went from a ramp trailer to this and would never go back. But, as you see and like you said, I use it for much more. My race car is a few inches from the ground and goes right up it without dragging. That's a big reason for it. I've been debating selling this one to build a custom one better suited for my needs. This one has done 100% of what I need it to and LOTS of it, but I just want a reason for a new one. My buddie is a licensed trailer manufacturer so it makes it that much easier too.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

DodgeBlizzard;1438733 said:


> So how do you get the 2nd jeep up on the tilt trailer? If the 1st jeep is loaded , that means the trailer is now laying flat.


The trailer is a power tilt. Elec over hyd hoist. It won't go down till I push a button


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

Here it is in action........I've posted this pic before. Looks small from this angle lol. This truck weighs around 10-12k, most of it front end weight. THe trailer is close to 3,500 curb weight. I've hauled this truck several times and it picks it up with no problem at all. I'm not boasting, really. Just showing the different options out there. I need an all around trailer for weekly use, and this is exactly that.


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## contractor078 (Dec 23, 2009)

I think alot of it will come down to personal preference and what you like don't like. I had a tilt trailer and hated it for many of the reasons that have been posted. I went to a 18' CAM superline with ramps and freaking LOVE IT. It will all come down to what you like what you are hauling ect. I would suggest if you know someone that has one try it out for your self and see what you think. 

For the money sounds like a sweet deal.


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## Greenmtboy (Jan 22, 2011)

As contractor said, it will come down to what will work best for you. My 2 cents would be, buy a trailer that will haul any combination of a load. That way you will not need a designated vehicle to pull it.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

Gravity tilt wount go down till you tell it too guys!!!
Every one I've seen or used is hydraulically dampered to go down slow, hence there is a valve, you tilt it up, close the valve, not it can't go anywhere, then u open the valve and it will go down, and vice versa, it would go up even when u back up all the way to the back unless the valve is opened... There is no problems loading 2 pieces of equipment, or long wheelbase machines...


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

I just got a 20' 14k Ecoline deckover tilt trailer. Great shape....I have yet to use it or even have it on my truck yet but I think i'll give it a try soon and get some pics up. One of my mentors has one and used one all the years he did landscaping (big stuff) and that's all he said he would ever use! I just happened to be in the right place at the right time to get mine for a great deal.



Triple L;1438828 said:


> Gravity tilt wount go down till you tell it too guys!!!
> Every one I've seen or used is hydraulically dampered to go down slow, hence there is a valve, you tilt it up, close the valve, not it can't go anywhere, then u open the valve and it will go down, and vice versa, it would go up even when u back up all the way to the back unless the valve is opened... There is no problems loading 2 pieces of equipment, or long wheelbase machines...


Mine is a 2002 and there is no valve...You haven't seen mine so your claim is still valid though lol Like you said it is hydraulically dampered through the reduced line size between the two sides of the piston, but there isn't a valve in the middle. Not really a problem for what i'm doing though but if i see the need to put more than one thing on there then a valve can easily be added.My piston is a lot further under the trailer too than the other posters here whose pistons were right at the front so I couldn't just add a valve in line in its existing location or else i would have to go under the trailer to turn it on/off.


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

got-h2o;1438743 said:


> Here it is in action........I've posted this pic before. Looks small from this angle lol. This truck weighs around 10-12k, most of it front end weight. THe trailer is close to 3,500 curb weight. I've hauled this truck several times and it picks it up with no problem at all. I'm not boasting, really. Just showing the different options out there. I need an all around trailer for weekly use, and this is exactly that.


Could you post a pic or two of how you mounted your winch to the front of the trailer? Ive thought about adding one to mine. Also, how did you run the power setup for it? Do you have a full size batter on the trailer charged by the truck?


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

onsight;1438151 said:


> What do you guys think of these? http://www.pjtrailers.com/detail.cfm?ID=T8


PJ trailers are fantastic, thats the only dump trailer I will buy and if the need comes up to buy any other new trailer then that's who I would go to for that as well.


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

mcwlandscaping;1438838 said:


> PJ trailers are fantastic, thats the only dump trailer I will buy and if the need comes up to buy any other new trailer then that's who I would go to for that as well.


Many of the PJ trailers, maybe even all of them now, are made in Mexico. I own a PJ tilt with 20' deck; 4' static, 16' tilt, and torsion axles. As I have stated in post #13 the closure mechanism is a bad design IME. Hopefully they have changed it to a better design (mine is 7 years old now). These trailers are not top quality trailers but they are affordable. I have also destroyed (3) tires (at $205 + installation, each) due to the fenders rubbing on the inside of the tire sidewall. I have modified the trailer and it has not happened since then. Trailers are not very complicated and should last for years. If PJ has taken care of these issues I would consider purchasing again. I think Towmasters are much better quality. They are much more expensive but they build a much higher quality trailer....in the US. If you are looking for a more economical trailer check out Contrail. It's also made by Towmaster but has less features to keep the price down. IMO still higher quality than PJ.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

Summer Texas isnt mexico


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

Antlerart06;1438904 said:


> Summer Texas isnt mexico


I agree that Sumner, TX is not Mexico. The website used to say that some trailers were built in Paris, TX, and some were built in Mexico. In today's world I would hedge my bets toward more production being done in Mexico than bringing it back to the US. From what I could see on the web site, it states that the company was founded in Sumner. It does not currently state where production is, or the current location. I am pretty sure that my trailer states made in Mexico on it. It's semantics really. I thought it was worth mentioning because it is important to some. Even if it is made in Mexico it can still be a good trailer.


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## Winterized (Mar 3, 2007)

Just went out and did a QUICK walk around on my PJ dump trailer purchased new from dealer October 2011, I see no ID badge visible.... could have missed it.... its cold here! Probably under the dump?

Nothing I see on title either for ...made in. Regardless... they are a good trailer for the money, I have a couple. Some stuff is quite stupid in design... what I do not like, I cut apart and change.

Dealer that does NOT sell PJ was telling me a story about them in Sumner. Will not repeat but it did have to do with the labor force not being too stable in town. LOTS of competition for workers.

Still good trailers for the money I think.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

mcwlandscaping;1438833 said:


> Could you post a pic or two of how you mounted your winch to the front of the trailer? Ive thought about adding one to mine. Also, how did you run the power setup for it? Do you have a full size batter on the trailer charged by the truck?


I can, sure. As for the battery, yes, the trailer has it's own marine type battery. It sits on a tray underneath, next to the hoist. The hoist and winch use the same battery, and the trucks charge the batt.

The red trailer came with a winch mount. I built one for my other trailer that I sold. Let me see what I can come up with.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

Here is the winch mount I made. A bit of overkill compared to the red trailer. I first used a piece of 3x5 angle and welded it to the face plate between the 2 uprights(which I made all of that and the bump rail as well). I then butted a piece of 5/16 plate to that, and gusseted the plate to the angle with (4) 1/4 cut triangles. For peace of mind, I took a piece of steel and welded underneath fron the front to the second rail for a little more strength. All was welded solid. That winch plate would hold more than the winch would pull LOL.










The red trailer is similar, but not as overkill. I just ran out and took a couple of pics. Here you can see how it mounts as well as how it's wired. The wires run through a tube welded on the front plate facing the battery. You can see where the wires come out right above the battery. The batt is like 2-3' in.


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## NEUSWEDE (Mar 14, 2003)

I have a Doweaster Tilt trailer 82" between fenders and 18' long. Best investment I ever made. So easy to load and unload. I went with gravity which has a cylinder to cushion it up and down. Great angle to load on and never had any problems even with snow on it. shoot a video tomorrow loading it. My only regret is not going bigger and having a 4' stationary section that I can leave a bucket on.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Do any of you guys run into the problem of having the trailer decking rotting from the salt? I usually throw sand on mine. I've never used salt just because I was worried about ruining the wood.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

peteo1;1439480 said:


> Do any of you guys run into the problem of having the trailer decking rotting from the salt? I usually throw sand on mine. I've never used salt just because I was worried about ruining the wood.


No but the steel is showing signs. The red trailer I posted is an 08 and was mint and shiny up until 1.5 years ago before I got my hands on it.


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## NEUSWEDE (Mar 14, 2003)

Here you go shot a quick video of loading and walk around of it. Its a downeaster but I think cam superline and maybe pj trailers is the same way but could be wrong.
enjoy


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## oldmankent (Mar 2, 2001)

I've got a 20' Kaufman with small beavertail. It's a 14k trailer. It has no side rails so loading with forks isnt a problem except for the fenders.


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)




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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

Concerns me the underside steel supports were never painted.


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

DodgeBlizzard;1440181 said:


> Concerns me the underside steel supports were never painted.


I would be too. IMO that trailer will require removal of the deck, sandblasting, and then painting. The later two would be best performed if you could flip the trailer. Many of the lesser expensive trailers will cut corners like this. Again, trailers are not complicated. You will get what you pay for.


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## StuveCorp (Dec 20, 2005)

DGODGR;1440216 said:


> I would be too. IMO that trailer will require removal of the deck, sandblasting, and then painting. The later two would be best performed if you could flip the trailer. Many of the lesser expensive trailers will cut corners like this. Again, trailers are not complicated. You will get what you pay for.


I agree with you but have had the discussion many times, are you better to buy say a Towmaster and run it for 10 years or buy the cheap trailer and run it for 5 years and throw it away and buy another?


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## DGODGR (Nov 30, 2008)

StuveCorp;1440262 said:


> I agree with you but have had the discussion many times, are you better to buy say a Towmaster and run it for 10 years or buy the cheap trailer and run it for 5 years and throw it away and buy another?


Well that's the $50 question. I have thought about that a few times. I have not yet purchased a higher quality trailer for my smaller equipment (though I have a Towmaster 25 ton). I would think that it would depend on your financial situation, your business model, and goals. When I bought the PJ, I paid cash for it. At the time I was not willing to pay the extra money for the higher quality trailer. If you can buy a less expensive one w/o financing but you must finance the more expensive trailer, it makes the more expensive trailer that much more expensive. The more expensive trailer was about 1.5x the cost of the lesser expensive one. If it lasts 2x as long you will be $ ahead. The more expensive trailer should also have other advantages. Less breakdowns will save you money, time, logistical problems, and help you keep your commitments. That alone may make it worth it (if you are a professional). Another advantage is towing stability. The Towmaster comes with thicker rims and low pro tires. These are much more stable than the "cheapie" wheels and tires and stability can be more of an issue on tilt decks when compared to stationary decks (because of axle to deck relationship). Safety is another item that is hard to value in dollars. I intend to purchase a higher quality trailer (probably a Towmaster) when I replace the PJ. This will probably happen soon but I'll have to get back to you in a few years.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

There's no substitute for a quality built trailer..........as we all know. NEVER go with a new trailer b/c its cheap. There's a HUGE difference in a new $3500 14k equipment trailer and a $7k one. Not that that really needs explanation. My buddie builds custom trailers, all hand made, powdercoated, and has done several hundred. He has trailers still on the road that were built in the early 90's and you wouldn't believe how they've held up. He can't build a trailer for what some of these places sell them for. I don't feel my red trailer is strong enough for me. We plan to build a new one designed after it, with a few upgrades to suit me personally. The thing is, this was a $7k trailer and is still worth every bit of $4k plus.


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