# Location for Reverse Spot Lights



## canoebuildah

Last winter, I installed two LED spotlights at the opposite ends of my rear bumper. I was hoping to get the light as close to the area I wanted lit up. Unfortunately, they were covered with snow most of the time and useless.

I am considering moving them up to the top of the bed rail at the rear of the truck. I worry that they will be exposed to being hit when loading wood, ladders, etc into the bed.

My other thought (which I have seen on other trucks), is to mount to my Backrack. I think that will be too far back from the ground and put most of the light into my bed.

What has worked best for you?


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## Kevin_NJ

Previously I'd always mounted them below the bumper and they'd always get damaged, even mounting them close to the hitch (my thought was the hitch would help protect them). On this truck I have them mounted to my backrack and they've been fine so far. True the bed will block the light from getting the area closest to the truck, but you usually can't see those areas that well in your mirrors anyway. 
If I wanted anymore light, I'd seriously consider flush mounting into the bumper. I've seen some of them, very slick look, great positioning, since they're flush it also limits the buildup of snow on the lens.


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## coke813

I had two of these lights mounted below the bumper, just on either side of my hitch. I bent a little steel plate around them to protect them from contact with things.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200615336_200615336

They worked great for light, I loved having them, but yes they did get covered in snow. LEDs won't create heat, but these were warm enough to melt snow, unfortunately, if I parked with slush still around them, it would freeze into ice. They only lasted about a year though, since I was bound to hit them on something like leaving a driveway. I ended up breaking the glass lens. After the second set was damaged, I just quit using them. So my only advice it to find something cheap that you can replace if/ when you damage it. Having them down below the bumper exposes them to all the road hazards/ splashing etc. But I didn't like the idea of mounting them to the top rails of the bed like some I have seen.


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## canoebuildah

These are the lights I purchased from Amazon. Cheap enough that I am not too worried about the eventual breakage.

I am leaning towards the Backrack as it will make the wiring easier, most protected location, and add light to my bed which will also be helpful as I use my truck for responding to Fire Dept calls.


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## TJS

You will be unhappy with them in your backrack. It will just bouce back when snowing. Keep them low. I made this a while ago using cheapo fog lights triggered by the reverse circut but fed via relay. You need the heat to melt. This has a backup beeper in it as well as a third brake light and running lights. I can control the beeper if I want it to work or not when I back up. I have a build on this somewhere here. You can see the build in my signature (home made hitch light).


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## SnoFarmer

Lights on the bumper area never seem to last long.
They get covered with snow, get damage from backing into snow banks, kicked,
etc, etc, and broken..

high Up on the back rack is the best place.
How you aim them plays a big roll in how much glare there will be.
Use spot lights, not flood lights the wide beam causes glare.
Then use yellow when possibel, not white light to limit glare.

Then aim the light correctly. 
The rule is you want to look over or under the beam of light. it's when you look threw the beam is where you get a lot of glare from.


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## TJS

SnoFarmer;2070596 said:


> Lights on the bumper area never seem to last long.
> They get covered with snow, get damage from backing into snow banks, kicked,
> etc, etc, and broken..
> 
> high Up on the back rack is the best place.
> How you aim them plays a big roll in how much glare there will be.
> Use spot lights, not flood lights the wide beam causes glare.
> Then use yellow when possibel, not white light to limit glare.
> 
> Then aim the light correctly.
> The rule is you want to look over or under the beam of light. it's when you look threw the beam is where you get a lot of glare from.


Been running my set up for over 5 seasons now. Same lights and I bash a lot of stuff. I hit snow and ice banks, yes snow does get in the grates but melts away after a couple backups.


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## SnoFarmer

If I ran a set up like yours it would be packed with snow & ice, sure it would melt out after being in the shop for a few hrs.

I back threw a lot of windrows and piles at the end of drives. but that's just me....

it gets so cold after a storm here that even head lights get ice build up around the edges.


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## canoebuildah

SnoFarmer;2070601 said:


> If I ran a set up like yours it would be packed with snow & ice, sure it would melt out after being in the shop for a few hrs.
> 
> I back threw a lot of windrows and piles at the end of drives. but that's just me....
> 
> it gets so cold after a storm here that even head lights get ice build up around the edges.


I agree. I plow mostly narrow gravel roads and always backing into snowbanks to turn around and maneuver around trees and buildings.

And I do not have heated parking for my trucks so it is always outside, exposed to the elements.


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## TJS

LOL. I had to read it twice. I thought you stated "bash through windows"


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## ScubaSteve728

Here is my setup 2 square led work lights on the back rack which are new this summer as well as projector reverse bulbs in the tail lights and led cargo lights. Also have the led back-up buddy in the receiver which I have been using for a few years and i love and swear by it. The backup buddy is holding up well over these 4 new England winters I have not had any trouble with it at all. You can see they are aimed low putting the light right where I need and want it. I will probably not use the lights on the back rack much even though they are very bright I believe they will reflect off the snow too much.


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## SnoFarmer

Then If glar is a issue, go to yellow lights to the rear.

Brighter isn't always better.


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## johnnywaz

I like'em as low as possible. The ones on the rear bumper I leave juuussst loose enough they fold over if I back into a pile. I use, KAWELL 42W, 60Deg flood off amazon. $47 for a pair delivered. I also use KAWELL 18W 60Deg flood ($20 pair) in the front to light up between my bumper and plow and off to the sides. When the plow is lifted up you also get light from undeneath.


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## Mark Oomkes

On the truck.


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## canoebuildah

johnnywaz;2070636 said:


> I like'em as low as possible. The ones on the rear bumper I leave juuussst loose enough they fold over if I back into a pile. I use, KAWELL 42W, 60Deg flood off amazon. $47 for a pair delivered. I also use KAWELL 18W 60Deg flood ($20 pair) in the front to light up between my bumper and plow and off to the sides. When the plow is lifted up you also get light from undeneath.


My snow must be different up here because it coats the entire rear end of my truck when plowing. That setup does not work for me.


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## dieselss

johnnywaz;2070636 said:


> I also use KAWELL 18W 60Deg flood ($20 pair) in the front to light up between my bumper and plow and off to the sides. When the plow is lifted up you also get light from undeneath.


So I'm wondering what the point of the ones on the front are? I read what you said, but I'm still trying to understand the point of them?


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## johnnywaz

dieselss;2070654 said:


> So I'm wondering what the point of the ones on the front are? I read what you said, but I'm still trying to understand the point of them?


Primarily they are used as fog lights when my plow is off. But they also offer extra light to the sides of my plow because of the wide beam angle. They also project under the plow when transporting down the road for extra light. If you have factory fog lights then what i have done is pretty pointless. It works for me though. I do wish i had mounted the front lights even lower but they work where they are.


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## dieselss

I have factory fog lights, and have never used them.


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## johnnywaz

dieselss;2070665 said:


> I have factory fog lights, and have never used them.


I respect that. Different strokes for different folks.


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## jonniesmooth

On one truck I used toggle bolts and put them right on the tailgate, wired into the back up lights.

My new plan is to mount the lights the same way, but use a pin to hold the light to the bracket, so they can be removed easily and make a wire harness to go to the RV plug. We wired the 12V on the plug through a switch in the cab, so we could use it to run the spreader.

Then they will come on with the back up lights or can be turned on manually.

they would be removed when the spreader is put on, they have their own lighting mounted to them


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## SnoFarmer

dieselss;2070665 said:


> I have factory fog lights, and have never used them.


I use my puddle lights. There factory installed also.


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## dieselss

SnoFarmer;2070729 said:


> I use my puddle lights. There factory installed also.


And?......


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## maxwellp

I use Harbor Tool 6 inch light. $12 each. Toss the bulb that comes with them, put in a 130 Watt. I put them up under the bumper. They are better than head lights, Hot to keep the crap off. I kill one or so a year but who cares. I have new ones ready to go. This is the best back up light I have ever seen.


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## SnoFarmer

dieselss;2070741 said:


> And?......


What Ya looking for?
A rubber biscuit?


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## Mark Oomkes

Mark Oomkes;2070639 said:


> On the truck.


I should clarify........on the truck...........pointing backwards.


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## dieselss

SnoFarmer;2070774 said:


> What Ya looking for?
> A rubber biscuit?


Woof woof.....


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## 1olddogtwo

25 posts and no one has mentioned one important thing.... What's the subject line of the thread and the poll?


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## BossPlow2010

1olddogtwo;2070783 said:



> 25 posts and no one has mentioned one important thing.... What's the subject line of the thread and the poll?


Under the bumper.
On top on the bumper you can open your tailgate.
On the bed rail you have to drill into it 
If you have a v box, there's probably lights on that you can use.

I have 1 rigid industries d2 Dually HD driving, it works great and snow melts off of it, not too worried about backing into snowbanks, I know the light can take it.


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## 1olddogtwo

spotlight........

Floods work better.


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## 1olddogtwo

BossPlow2010;2070788 said:


> Under the bumper.
> On top on the bumper you can open your tailgate.
> On the bed rail you have to drill into it
> If you have a v box, there's probably lights on that you can use.
> 
> I have 1 rigid industries d2 Dually HD driving, it works great and snow melts off of it, not too worried about backing into snowbanks, I know the light can take it.


since i don't have factory reverse lights, i have these.

they are going on 5 years old, 4 trucks, two bumpers, and 3 rear-ending, i cant say anything bad about them.


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## SnoFarmer

not woof, woof more bow bow bow....
A rubber biscuit .


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## johnnywaz

1olddogtwo;2070799 said:


> since i don't have factory reverse lights, i have these.
> 
> they are going on 5 years old, 4 trucks, two bumpers, and 3 rear-ending, i cant say anything bad about them.


Nice lights! I almost got those instead of what i ended up with. I was on the fence and chose what i posted previously. My new ones now havent seen any sustained snow use yet but they get warm enough to the touch they should melt snow. The cooling fins alone are pretty substantial cause of heat issues.


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## BossPlow2010

1olddogtwo;2070799 said:


> since i don't have factory reverse lights, i have these.
> 
> they are going on 5 years old, 4 trucks, two bumpers, and 3 rear-ending, i cant say anything bad about them.


Did you wire those to your reverse lights or the aux switches?
Also what brand is the backup camera?


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## 1olddogtwo

Those are wired into the factory pigtail.

Some off brand. It's in the garage, I could check later. That was my 2011 truck. That bumper ended up on my 12, the 13 is the one that took 3 hits. Those same lights are on my 14. My 14 has factory camera-8 inch display with zoom

My backrack has two 5x7 spot/flood combo that swivel pretty easily and a 10in LED fixed lightbar. Those are on a upfitter. 

The rack lights work well for "work" more then relying on them for backup light. They cause shadowing. It actually darkens up a few feet along each side of the truck, its the truck box.


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## dieselss

Here's my new ones


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## 1olddogtwo

U left ur Chinese food on the bumper


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## Brian Young

I made my own "back up buddy". Found a 2" hitch/receiver with a nice sized tow hook welded onto it, drilled 2 holes, mounted 2 2150 lumen LED's and wired an RV plug for reverse and presto. No running wires, easy on/off.


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## kimber750

1olddogtwo;2070799 said:


> since i don't have factory reverse lights, i have these.
> 
> they are going on 5 years old, 4 trucks, two bumpers, and 3 rear-ending, i cant say anything bad about them.


I gotta ask, what were you using the micrometer for?

And to all of you that can't have lights under your bumper because you back into things. Who taught you how to drive? Stevie Wonder aka Seedd? 

I have always had my back up lights mounted under bumper or bed and have yet to lose one yet.


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## Brian Young

kimber750;2071057 said:


> I gotta ask, what were you using the micrometer for?
> 
> And to all of you that can't have lights under your bumper because you back into things. Who taught you how to drive? Stevie Wonder aka Seedd?
> 
> I have always had my back up lights mounted under bumper or bed and have yet to lose one yet.


It's amazing isn't it! I ran one of our trucks set up the same exact way for years without any issues and then put someone into it and the lights lasted about 2 storms, the liquid salt spreader bar broke, not once but twice and finally a tail light...all in about a week! total cost to replace everything was about 300 bucks!


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## BUFF

kimber750;2071057 said:


> I gotta ask, what were you using the micrometer for?


I saw the 0-1" too but since I use one to check drill size I didn't think mulch of it. I can read a mic easier than the etching/stamping on a drill bit.


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## canoebuildah

maxwellp;2070756 said:


> I use Harbor Tool 6 inch light. $12 each. Toss the bulb that comes with them, put in a 130 Watt. I put them up under the bumper. They are better than head lights, Hot to keep the crap off. I kill one or so a year but who cares. I have new ones ready to go. This is the best back up light I have ever seen.


http://www.harborfreight.com/clear-lens-halogen-lights-37349.html

Are these the lights you use?

Or these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-halogen-vehicle-work-light-93904.html

These seem the most rugged:

http://www.harborfreight.com/off-road-long-range-truck-light-system-3029.html


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## 1olddogtwo

BUFF;2071066 said:


> I saw the 0-1" too but since I use one to check drill size I didn't think mulch of it. I can read a mic easier than the etching/stamping on a drill bit.


Bingo.....also used a self centering drill bit when I drilled the faster holes.


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## SnoFarmer

kimber750;2071057 said:


> I gotta ask, what were you using the micrometer for?
> 
> And to all of you that can't have lights under your bumper because you back into things. Who taught you how to drive? Stevie Wonder aka Seedd?
> 
> I have always had my back up lights mounted under bumper or bed and have yet to lose one yet.


We get this stuff called snow.
Then Instead of feeling our way around a lot or drive like a blind man, we just drive threw the stuff.

As for your back up lights what ya need then for?
Are Ya blind, 
I've never had a set on a plow truck.
Never " saw" a need.

Lastly 169.59
§Subbed. 3.Backup light. Any vehicle may be equipped with not more than two backup lamps, either separately or in combination with another lamp, and not more than two rear cornering lamps, except that the lamps must not be continuously lighted when the vehicle is in forward motion, nor shall it project a glaring light.

Most all states have a similar law.


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## kimber750

BUFF;2071066 said:


> I saw the 0-1" too but since I use one to check drill size I didn't think mulch of it. I can read a mic easier than the etching/stamping on a drill bit.


You old timers and your drawer full of drill bits. I use those fancy cases that has the size on it.  No way I can read that tiny writing.



SnoFarmer;2071095 said:


> We get this stuff called snow.
> Then Instead of feeling our way around a lot or drive like a blind man, we just drive threw the stuff.
> 
> As for your back up lights what ya need then for?
> Are Ya blind,
> I've never had a set on a plow truck.
> Never " saw" a need.
> 
> Lastly 169.59
> §Subbed. 3.Backup light. Any vehicle may be equipped with not more than two backup lamps, either separately or in combination with another lamp, and not more than two rear cornering lamps, except that the lamps must not be continuously lighted when the vehicle is in forward motion, nor shall it project a glaring light.
> 
> Most all states have a similar law.


Hmm, flatbed came with 4 backup lights. Also truck had to go through enhanced inspection after bed was installed, it passed. And not blind, got headlights in the front why not have something just as bright in the back since we spend almost as much time going backwards as we do going forwards.


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## BUFF

kimber750;2071104 said:


> You old timers and your drawer full of drill bits. I use those fancy cases that has the size on it.  No way I can read that tiny writing.


I have those fancy new fangled drill index's, my problem is my family helps themselves to my stuff when they can't find or broke theirs. So I don't rely on what the size says in the index because there's a pretty good chance it's not the correct drill.


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## sealer700

At walmart or the like, I bought a pair of stake pocket anchor points. mounted them with top hooks off and voila. Pefect mount for lights on bedrail, very easy to remove and NO DRILLING. Grounded behind taillight. Just bought some very cheap led's off ebay but they work great. Also no snow buildup up there like lower would be.


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## Mark Oomkes

Must be nice, under\over\in bumper lights don't work for us. We have these things called back plows.

http://www.sewardoffroad.com/curve-twin-3d-20/

This is what I have been getting for my trucks and even on the tractors.

I'll get a picture of mine (a 30") when it gets light out.


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## iceyman

Theyre braces underneath my bumper 14 2500 that i undid the bolt, put light up and new bolt thru existing hole. Ill have to get to a regular computer one day to post pics up


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## coke813

kimber750;2071057 said:


> And to all of you that can't have lights under your bumper because you back into things. Who taught you how to drive? Stevie Wonder aka Seedd?
> 
> I have always had my back up lights mounted under bumper or bed and have yet to lose one yet.


I had them mounted to the bottom of my hitch bracket, I drilled and tapped the tube steel. never damaged them plowing, though they did get covered in snow when I would back through piles from back-dragging, etc. I'll tell you how I broke one once- I was turning into a farm lane from a town road and the lane had a little washout, so as my wheels went through the hole, my light bracket scraped the ground and it broke my lens. point is, there is nothing protecting the light when they are down below everything. I like the bumper mount like old dog has, but I'm afraid to cut my new bumper.


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## SnoFarmer

kimber750;2071104 said:


> You old timers and your drawer full of drill bits. I use those fancy cases that has the size on it.  No way I can read that tiny writing.
> 
> Hmm, flatbed came with 4 backup lights. Also truck had to go through enhanced inspection after bed was installed, it passed. And not blind, got headlights in the front why not have something just as bright in the back since we spend almost as much time going backwards as we do going forwards.


Humm just because it came with them and went threw "inspection" doesn't mean you can run them anyway you wish, like the law says...
your "inspector" doesn't control how you use the lights.
your truck can go over 100mph too this doesn't make it legal to do so..

so, you need lightingThumbs Up, only a few times in rural locations would extra lighting from a elevated location would have been nice. Under the bumper would not work for me.
I would rip them off stacking snow, backing over curbs etc etc... then all of my lots heave lighting, the lights are so brite dont need headlights,

just say'en, some of us have better night vision than others.:waving:
.


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## johnnywaz

SnoFarmer;2071153 said:


> Humm just because it came with them and went threw "inspection" doesn't mean you can run them anyway you wish, like the law says...
> your "inspector" doesn't control how you use the lights.
> your truck can go over 100mph too this doesn't make it legal to do so..
> 
> so, you need lightingThumbs Up, only a few times in rural locations would extra lighting from a elevated location would have been nice. Under the bumper would not work for me.
> I would rip them off stacking snow, backing over curbs etc etc... then all of my lots heave lighting, the lights are so brite dont need headlights,
> 
> just say'en, some of us have better night vision than others.:waving:
> .


Good point on the rural comment! ALL mine are rural plowing. Kinda like you said, its different situation for everyone. Each person needs to make up their own mind how to adapt to their environments. All of us argueing what's better really means nothing. Me personally, i enjoy seeing the pictures of everyone's setups and making up my own mind what works for me.


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## maxwellp

I have 90% rural - if you do not bring your own light, you have none. My backup light are as bright or brighter than my head lights. I have them on a switch, I turn them off when I am on the road.


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## kimber750

SnoFarmer;2071153 said:


> Humm just because it came with them and went threw "inspection" doesn't mean you can run them anyway you wish, like the law says...
> your "inspector" doesn't control how you use the lights.
> your truck can go over 100mph too this doesn't make it legal to do so..
> 
> so, you need lightingThumbs Up, only a few times in rural locations would extra lighting from a elevated location would have been nice. Under the bumper would not work for me.
> I would rip them off stacking snow, backing over curbs etc etc... then all of my lots heave lighting, the lights are so brite dont need headlights,
> 
> just say'en, some of us have better night vision than others.:waving:
> .


Biggest reason for back up lights for me is most of my lots have people running around in them, including my shovelers. And most of these business people do not wear bright clothing.

I can back over a curb without hitting my lights. No snow pile has ever damaged them. I have yet to bottom out on one of them yet so can't say anything on that.

Here an enhanced inspection station is the place were we need to go after alterations, to title home built vehicles or re inspect reconstructed vehicles. So well above our normal inspection stations. If they don't know the law, the cops sure don't.


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## novawagonmaster

I bought a cheap set of fog lights from Autozone and mounted them on top of the rear bumper. The are just short enough to allow the tailgate to clear when it swings open. They have halogen bulbs, so they heat up enough to melt snow that accumulates. My hardtop has factory tinted windows, so the additional light definitely helps.


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## BUFF

In addition to back up lights I have 6 more rear facing lights. I have 2 rubber bodied implement floods mounted to my TGS that are on the same circuit as my strobe. They're pointed towards the ground so I can see material being spread and for more light when backing. I have 2 more of the same lights mounted under the bed behind the cab on their own circuit. These are handy for resi's with driveways that are curved and tight, they're also great when backing up with a trailer at night too. The 2 mounted to the brain board are cheapo low profile fog lights on their own circuit, these are just work lights.


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## BossPlow2010

Mark Oomkes;2071135 said:


> I'll get a picture of mine (a 30") when it gets light out.


Why not just turn the light on


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## SnoFarmer

kimber750;2071195 said:


> Biggest reason for back up lights for me is most of my lots have people running around in them, including my shovelers. And most of these business people do not wear bright clothing.
> 
> I can back over a curb without hitting my lights. No snow pile has ever damaged them. I have yet to bottom out on one of them yet so can't say anything on that.
> 
> Here an enhanced inspection station is the place were we need to go after alterations, to title home built vehicles or re inspect reconstructed vehicles. So well above our normal inspection stations. If they don't know the law, the cops sure don't.


You can have a row of lights to the rear and pass a enhanced inspection.
It's how you use them and when.

We get these thing called snow banks that are found right on top of the curbs.
:waving:


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## Dogplow Dodge

Love my back up lights. I can see everything that I couldn't see before.... Maybe even a fire hydrant if it gets in the way .... Thumbs Up


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## Wicked Warnings

back rack or flush mount is all we ever do on anything anymore. Done dozens and all worked out great in those two spots.


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## BUFF

Dogplow Dodge;2071432 said:


> Love my back up lights. I can see everything that I couldn't see before.... Maybe even a fire hydrant if it gets in the way .... Thumbs Up


If I was to put lights down low on a pickup I'd do the same as you and the wing eating cackler......Thumbs Up


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## Mr.Markus

My hitch is welded to the frame. I bolted LED lights right to the frame in existing holes and tied into the reverse wire. The existing lights in the box do very little to light up what I need to see in the mirrors to back up so the other ones are aimed out the back to the sides.


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## ultimate plow

I have 2 rigid industries D2 led flood lights in the rear that light up plenty for me. They seem to work best mounted right under the bumper from my experience. I have mine on a switch for salt pattern light, and have them wired to reverse (inside) the cab, no splicing outside the cab. Never crushed a thing. I back over free snow piles from the messes i make in the lot but not frozen piles over the curb so iv never damaged the lights iv mounted under bumper. Yet they are bullet proof if any of you have watched the torture test video


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## allagashpm

I voted above bumper. My truck there is enough room on the bumper on either side to put them and still be able to open the tailgate. They pack with snow and get busted down low. Maybe not the first half of winter but when things start getting tight they won't survive. 
Have you looked at replacing your reverse lights with some of the leds? I did that it is cheap and they are wicked bright.


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## Mark Oomkes

Finally found daylight.


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## maxwellp

What brand? How have they been? I was just looking at lights like that.


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## Mark Oomkes

maxwellp;2074033 said:


> What brand? How have they been? I was just looking at lights like that.





Mark Oomkes;2071135 said:


> Must be nice, under\over\in bumper lights don't work for us. We have these things called back plows.
> 
> http://www.sewardoffroad.com/curve-twin-3d-20/
> 
> This is what I have been getting for my trucks and even on the tractors.
> 
> I'll get a picture of mine (a 30") when it gets light out.


^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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## BUFF

Mark Oomkes;2074007 said:


> Finally found daylight.


At the last family reunion did you have Stevie weld up the light mount on the Ebling........:whistling::whistling::whistling::whistling:


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## canoebuildah

allagashpm;2073308 said:


> I voted above bumper. My truck there is enough room on the bumper on either side to put them and still be able to open the tailgate. They pack with snow and get busted down low. Maybe not the first half of winter but when things start getting tight they won't survive.
> Have you looked at replacing your reverse lights with some of the leds? I did that it is cheap and they are wicked bright.


Thanks. Do you have any links to LED lights to replace the factory reverse? Or where did you get them?


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## ScubaSteve728

canoebuildah;2074398 said:


> Thanks. Do you have any links to LED lights to replace the factory reverse? Or where did you get them?


http://hidkitpros.com/shop/2011-2015-ford-f250350-super-duty-high-power-cree-led-reverse-lights/

I believe these are the ones I have in my truck. Very easy to install just pop the tail light remove old bulb and install very bright would recommend very nice for every day non work use.


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## allagashpm

ScubaSteve728;2074457 said:


> http://hidkitpros.com/shop/2011-2015-ford-f250350-super-duty-high-power-cree-led-reverse-lights/
> 
> I believe these are the ones I have in my truck. Very easy to install just pop the tail light remove old bulb and install very bright would recommend very nice for every day non work use.


Yup same ones I ordered. Came in like 2 days. I will take a pic for you they are wicked bright.


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## maxwellp

canoebuildah;2071070 said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/clear-lens-halogen-lights-37349.html
> 
> Are these the lights you use?
> 
> Or these?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-halogen-vehicle-work-light-93904.html
> 
> These seem the most rugged:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/off-road-long-range-truck-light-system-3029.html


These

6 In. Off-Road Light System
RoadShock
Item #:95811


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## JMHConstruction

maxwellp;2074478 said:


> These
> 
> 6 In. Off-Road Light System
> RoadShock
> Item #:95811


Can I just run a wire from the reverse lights or from the trailer wire to power these? I would like to get some extra light back there for hooking up trailers and backing into job sites with no lights. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical on vehicles though.


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## maxwellp

JMHConstruction;2074550 said:


> Can I just run a wire from the reverse lights or from the trailer wire to power these? I would like to get some extra light back there for hooking up trailers and backing into job sites with no lights. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical on vehicles though.


http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=off+road+lights
The 6 inch ones, toss the bulbs that come in them they will only last a few days. Put in this / Wagner Lighting BP1213H3 Halogen Capsule

No they are power hogs - they need a relay with there own power supply. 
They are however brighter than head lights and stay warm enough that snow and ice will not stick to them when turned on.


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## JoeG3

JMHConstruction;2074550 said:


> Can I just run a wire from the reverse lights or from the trailer wire to power these? I would like to get some extra light back there for hooking up trailers and backing into job sites with no lights. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical on vehicles though.


 Sounds like a Back-up buddy might be your best choice, if you search I think there was a link for a plow site discount.

http://www.back-upbuddy.com/


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## JMHConstruction

JoeG3;2074588 said:


> Sounds like a Back-up buddy might be your best choice, if you search I think there was a link for a plow site discount.
> 
> http://www.back-upbuddy.com/


I just looked it up. Looks pretty cool, but I'm very cheap and I like the price of the HF lights much more than the $220 backup buddy. Although the headache of running wires, it might be worth $200 to not do it.


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## dieselss

Running wire is not that big of a deal. Plus you can put them on a switch so they can be on whenever you want.


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## BUFF

Went to town for lunch today and saw a great example why aux back up lights shouldn't be mounted below the bumper.


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## Mark Oomkes

BUFF;2074892 said:


> Went to town for lunch today and saw a great example why aux back up lights shouldn't be mounted below the bumper.


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

PS Looks like at least 18 people are wrong.


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## maxwellp

Did he get out? Or is he looking for his back up lights.


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## BUFF

maxwellp;2074900 said:


> Did he get out? Or is he looking for his back up lights.


There was 3 pickups in the lot, 2 were pushing into the drive lanes and 1 was pushing to stack. The AC in the Dodge backed over the pile and got hung up. When I went back oot after eating he was stuck again. 
These guys were comical to watch for a few min then it was just too much to watch.


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## JMHConstruction

BUFF;2074892 said:


> Went to town for lunch today and saw a great example why aux back up lights shouldn't be mounted below the bumper.


What's that white stuff of the ground? I feel like I've seen it before, but it was so long ago...


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## iceyman

dieselss;2074662 said:


> Running wire is not that big of a deal. Plus you can put them on a switch so they can be on whenever you want.


Took me an hour to install mine with a switch. Wasnt too hard


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## iceyman

BUFF;2074892 said:


> Went to town for lunch today and saw a great example why aux back up lights shouldn't be mounted below the bumper.


What was that guy trying to accomplish? Rest of lot has a couple inches and hes in over a foot.


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## Mr.Markus

BUFF;2074892 said:


> Went to town for lunch today and saw a great example why aux back up lights shouldn't be mounted below the bumper.


I didn't know you lived so close to SnoFarmer...


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## BUFF

JMHConstruction;2074916 said:


> What's that white stuff of the ground? I feel like I've seen it before, but it was so long ago...


We're at aboot a foot for the day. It sure is fun to be in.Thumbs Up



iceyman;2074927 said:


> What was that guy trying to accomplish? Rest of lot has a couple inches and hes in over a foot.


Near as I can tell he had no idea either........ Just someone in a plow truck that shouldn't be.



Mr.Markus;2074931 said:


> I didn't know you lived so close to SnoFarmer...


He's the next time zone east, probably a good thing too......


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## allagashpm

Daylight



Looking straight at them



Off to the side.

I am sure there are brighter or better options out there, but these work pretty well for the price and ease of install.


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## TJS

JMHConstruction;2074550 said:


> Can I just run a wire from the reverse lights or from the trailer wire to power these? I would like to get some extra light back there for hooking up trailers and backing into job sites with no lights. I'm clueless when it comes to electrical on vehicles though.


You need a relay set up to take the load utilizing the 7 pin trailer connector. I think I show some wiring in this post. 
http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=90123&highlight=hitch+light


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## hbrady

Got my new $25 Auxbeam LED floods mounted last night. Wired up to trailer 7 pin plug and got a locking pin. Total investment, $40. Nice part is the quick removal / install. Looking at the long term forecast, they will be sitting in my shop for a while


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## Mark Oomkes

Nice, but even if I didn't have a back plow, I would destroy those in 1 night.


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## hbrady

Mark Oomkes;2076737 said:


> Nice, but even if I didn't have a back plow, I would destroy those in 1 night.


Luckily the one road and couple driveways I do don't involve backing into any banks; otherwise, I never would have mounted them there. I like the back rack or sander mounted lights but my budget is low (just like my lights)


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## SnoFarmer

I got this pic in a message,
I bet he's happy he didn't mount his lights down low


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## Mark Oomkes

SnoFarmer;2076817 said:


> I got this pic in a message,
> I bet he's happy he didn't mount his lights down low


http://www.plowsite.com/showpost.php?p=2074892&postcount=77

Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up

:waving::waving::waving::waving::waving:

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## BUFF

SnoFarmer;2076817 said:


> I got this pic in a message,
> I bet he's happy he didn't mount his lights down low


That image is copyright protected............ Payment is a case of Jacks


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## JMHConstruction

Okay, I could wire a whole house, but for this is my first time wiring up something on a truck. I feel like such an idiot, asking stupid questions. I got these lights
http://m.harborfreight.com/off-road-long-range-truck-light-system-3029.html

It came with wires, a fuse, and a switch. Should I buy a relay and put that in also? If so, do I have to wire it differently or just hook up the wires it came with to the relay and wire the relay and fuse to the battery? They're for headlights, so I had to buy more wire to run to the battery anyway. Haven't tried installing it yet, just opened the box.

I was also thinking of getting a 3 way switch and try to hook it up where I could use it when I go into reverse (from trailer wire), have it on when not in reverse, and off. Is thus possible? I'm going to install them under the bumper because that's really the only place I have, so I got the cheap set incase I bust one.


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## hbrady

JMHConstruction;2076828 said:


> Okay, I could wire a whole house, but for this is my first time wiring up something on a truck. I feel like such an idiot, asking stupid questions.....


First time for everything 

Here is a guy installing the same light kit, video may give you motion sickness but it may help. I imagine the switch it comes with is rated properly so I don't think you would need a relay:


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## hbrady

SnoFarmer;2076817 said:


> I got this pic in a message,
> I bet he's happy he didn't mount his lights down low


Still trying to figure out how he managed that parking job, takes real skill


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## SnoFarmer

BUFF;2076824 said:


> That image is copyright protected............ Payment is a case of Jacks


I'm all ready working on the next beer run,
So teasing me isn't helping any.

You go buy 5 cases, bring them here and I'll let ya have one,
Then we can caravan to Mook's for the party

You lost control when you posted it here.
Terms of use


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## BUFF

SnoFarmer;2076840 said:


> I'm all ready working on the next beer run,
> So teasing me isn't helping any.
> 
> You go buy 5 cases, bring them here and I'll let ya have one,
> Then we can caravan to Mook's for the party
> 
> You lost control when you posted it here.
> Terms of use


I could run up to Cody from Lander next week to get some and use the excuse I'm going to the Cody Museum........

Terms....... Pfft.... Who reads those...


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## JMHConstruction

Well new plan. When I went out to start installing the lights, the ol' lady decided she wanted to help. Well when I pulled out the light, all she talked about was how ugly they were. Long story short, I'm about to make a run back to Harbor Freight to buy the smaller ones. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/clear-lens-halogen-lights-37349.html

I believe there is a term for this.... "P"-Something whipped... Oh well, maybe she's right.


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## SnoFarmer

I can get some in Bismarck ND.
But what fun would that be.
At that point I'm 1/2 way there

Or pick it up there and I se Ya at Mook's


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## cbservicesllc

JMHConstruction;2076828 said:


> Okay, I could wire a whole house, but for this is my first time wiring up something on a truck. I feel like such an idiot, asking stupid questions. I got these lights
> http://m.harborfreight.com/off-road-long-range-truck-light-system-3029.html
> 
> It came with wires, a fuse, and a switch. Should I buy a relay and put that in also? If so, do I have to wire it differently or just hook up the wires it came with to the relay and wire the relay and fuse to the battery? They're for headlights, so I had to buy more wire to run to the battery anyway. Haven't tried installing it yet, just opened the box.
> 
> I was also thinking of getting a 3 way switch and try to hook it up where I could use it when I go into reverse (from trailer wire), have it on when not in reverse, and off. Is thus possible? I'm going to install them under the bumper because that's really the only place I have, so I got the cheap set incase I bust one.


I'm looking at doing something similar... I want it on anytime I want and also with the reverse lights... But I would think if I flipped the switch to have it on all the time it would back feed I to the reverse lights?


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## Mark Oomkes

cbservicesllc;2076967 said:


> I'm looking at doing something similar... I want it on anytime I want and also with the reverse lights... But I would think if I flipped the switch to have it on all the time it would back feed I to the reverse lights?


Don't ask me for details, but using a relay it can be done. I have had it on a couple of my trucks.


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## JMHConstruction

Figured out the relays! Lol I guess I just needed to get my hands on it and do it. Instead of taking the bigger round ones back I installed them upfront to give me a little more light when out in the country. Tomorrow I'll get back ones installed. Cbservices, I'll let you know how it turns out with trying to get hooked up to a 3 way switch. I'll try to get pictures up for you too.


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## jonniesmooth

*3 way switch*



Mark Oomkes;2076968 said:


> Don't ask me for details, but using a relay it can be done. I have had it on a couple of my trucks.


I believe you can do it like this: run power from the reverse lights to the right side of the switch, wire power to the left side of the switch and use the center as your output to the lights. Then leave the switch in the reverse position ,this would give you the option of shutting off the "extra" lights if they violate your local code, ie: when you're not plowing.

Ooops! wrong quote sorry


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## jonniesmooth

*3 way switch*



cbservicesllc;2076967 said:


> I'm looking at doing something similar... I want it on anytime I want and also with the reverse lights... But I would think if I flipped the switch to have it on all the time it would back feed I to the reverse lights?


I believe you can do it like this: run power from the reverse lights to the right side of the switch, wire power to the left side of the switch and use the center as your output to the lights. Then leave the switch in the reverse position ,this would give you the option of shutting off the "extra" lights if they violate your local code, ie: when you're not plowing.


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## mikesprolawn

*3 way switch*



Mark Oomkes;2076968 said:


> Don't ask me for details, but using a relay it can be done. I have had it on a couple of my trucks.


I just went thru this myself. Do yourself a favor and just order a rc3300 relay. They are about $9-$10 online. The mapping of that one is exactly what you need. Run fused constant hot to #30 pole, ground off #86, tap into your factory harness (normally under truck where your working in the rear anyway) for reverse light power and connect to #85, power too lights is 87 and your load lead off switch hooks to 87a.

This will allow you to turn lights on/off with switch, and they will come on when truck is popped in reverse.


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## PLC1985

Spreader lights


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## JMHConstruction

cbservicesllc;2076967 said:


> I'm looking at doing something similar... I want it on anytime I want and also with the reverse lights... But I would think if I flipped the switch to have it on all the time it would back feed I to the reverse lights?


I hooked it up, and when u put it in the position to have it on while in reverse it powers the reverse lights while not in reverse and the aux lights don't even come on. It's been raining the last few days so I haven't had a chance to mess with it. Had someone give me some ideas on here, so maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to see what I did wrong and hopefully fix the problem.


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## TJS

I think this is what you want. I drew this up real quick. You need a double position double throw switch(the one with 6 terminals). This should eliminate the need for a diode so you do not back feed your single throw switch and subsequently turn on the lights when you do not want to. I have not tested something like this but it should work. Disclaimer: I did not test this, not responsible for user error or eletrical issues or fire where animals or humans were maimed or killed.


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## JMHConstruction

Thanks TJ, I haven't had a chance to try that. Do you know where to get a switch with the 6 prongs? At the auto stores they only had the 3 prongs. I'd like to find it locally, but I have seen them online. Maybe Radio Shack (if there are any left)?


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## TJS

Try NAPA. You have to ask at the counter, if you get a good counter person, they should have it. If not possible McMaster or Del-city.net


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## jarhead1349

I mounted a pair of 27W LED floods to unistrut and bolted it into the rear stake pockets. Wiring is a dedicated circuit from the battery with a switch in the cab and Weather Pack connectors. When plowing is done for the year; remove two bolts, ulplug the lights, plug in dummy plugs, and put the stake pocket covers back in. Easy day.


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## JMHConstruction

After seeing this post again I figured I'd do an update. I'm just an idiot and had everything wired fine. The diagram I was using off google was incorrect. I had 2 wires switched on my switch so it fed power to the reverse lights instead of letting the reverse lights power my new lights. All is working great now and I use the reverse setting all the time, and the lights on their own (without being in reverse) is great for loading bags of ice melt in the dark. Can't believe I didn't do it sooner.


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## GMCHD plower

Hows everyone hooking to the battery? I have two sets of rough county lights that come with a harness that includes an inline fuse and relay, but my issue is between these two sets of lights, plus my sander harness, and plow harness I'm getting leads "stacked up" on the positive and negative terminals. I'm trying to keep stuff separate by having the plow running off one battery, and the sander another. Anyone have any solutions? I know I can go get new batteries with side mount spots but trying to avoid that.


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## dieselss

Depending upon how many accys and amps they draw, you can add a 100_200 circuit breaker. 
Take a 2_8g wire from positive to this circuit breaker and from the output run all your lower amp draw circuits off it, fused of course


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## JoeG3

I decided I want a clean look with everything in one place so I got a Feniex 4200 for everything. 

I mounted the relay panel under the back seat and it has one wire to the switch panel. It's capable of running 10 amps on each switched output, and has several 30 amp pass through outputs, with everything on it's max is 60 amps.


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