# Oil Pan Repair



## MickiRig1

_Anybody ever come up with a product to repair rusted out oil pans? _
My Big Red Drain's 351 has 2 pin holes right at the bottom corners of the pan ( Of Course ! )
The trucks going to be retired after I move my disabled Brother and his 2 garages of stuff. I need to haul all the mulch my extended family needs too. I am looking at all the fiberglass resin / cloth / mat I have and thinking hummm. There's no way I want to yank the pan off.


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## yard5864

Did the fiberglass/ resin thing on my 88 F150. The pan was leaking pretty severely, I just drained the oil, used brake clean on the outside of the pan and let it rip. after it was dry, i refilled the oil. I was hoping it would last for a couple of weeks till I could get a new pan under neath the truck. I bought the pan and kept it in the garage; installed it after the old pan started leaking again almost a year later!


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## Avitare

*You are not going to believe this*

My 92 bronco 5.0L, had a leak that suddenly got really bad.
I tried several stick-on remedies without success.
Desperate,.. I went to a local skilled welder.
Eddie Boh in Central Lake, MI

2 hours later -- no more leaks.

We drained the oil, jacked the truck and blocked it. He layed under the engine and 
rested (?) his head on a log and welded the thin stuff where he could and patched 
places that were too far gone.

Then we filled the oil level to spec and I drove it 10 miles --getting out an looking for 
drips. (none)
came back and drained the oil and changed filter with fresh oil.

This worked 2 years and no leaks.
$175 was cheap and I am still amazed.

good luck
tc

The truck is retired because the rest of it is falling off the frame.


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## MickiRig1

*It aint beat me until the tow truck takes it away!*

I had a Bronco II with the same problem. Body mounts were gone!
It's too thin to weld and too curved to patch very easily. I can weld and have all kinds of sizes of sticks. But with the rust I would be chasing the bead all over and still have a leak. Plus the weld pops would be outrages! I went and bought some fiberglass resin that's like bondo. You spread it on wax paper, put down a piece of fiberglass mat then cover it with more resin. Paste it on and smooth it out. Peal the wax paper off after it cures. I have used it for body repairs and it works real well. I don't know if it can take the heat.


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## xtreem3d

jb weld might work


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## CARDOCTOR

we used gas tank repair puddy that was 3yrs ago still no leak

JR


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## sno commander

i had the same problem on my old dodge. i drained the oil wire brushed it all and used jb weld. i let it sit for 24 hours and it works great.


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## ABES

xtreem3d;543580 said:


> jb weld might work


Thats what i was thinking also, Ive fixed A Lot of stuff with JB weld. I dont know how it stands up to the heat though.


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## AbsoluteH&L

I had a leak on an oil pan in a car once, put some gas & oil resistant sealant on it. Never leaked again! Orange Permatex, or something like that.


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## Garagekeeper

Find some one that has a good soldering or tinning iron and knows how to solder.
It takes a bit of time to clean up the pan and locate all the pinholes but the repair will last you a long time if properly done.
 John...


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## Niteman9

sno commander;543765 said:


> i had the same problem on my old dodge. i drained the oil wire brushed it all and used Job weld. i let it sit for 24 hours and it works great.


Did the same thing on my 90 dodge. A year and a half and no more leaks. This is the way I would go. Cheap easy and works good.


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## Ggg6

I have had good luck brazing or TIG welding repairs like this. Definitely too thin and rusty for arc welding, you might be able to MIG but it would have to be very thin wire.


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## Brookside

I've heard good things about JB Weld, and I bet the sealer mentioned above would work also, since there's no real pressure. I've had good luck patching things with stuff called "plumber's putty" from the hardware store. It comes in a plastic tube. You cut off what you need and roll it in your hand to mix its two parts together. It's pretty rugged when it hardens. I've used it on gas tank pinholes.


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## FTGUprprtyMaint

my pan just went too.. its slowly dripping now but my truck is only a 03? is it typical that they only last 5 yrs?


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## daninline

I just changed the pan in my shop took about 2 hours and the pan was about 80 bucks I did have to jack the motor up some and drop the oil pump.
Before I did that I did do a temp repair the pan was leaking bad I got the truck nice and warmed up then steel brushed the pan and then used brake cleaner and dried it and put a skim coat of silacone sealer not a drop leaked out until I changed the pan good luck


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## FTGUprprtyMaint

it seems that my pan has begin to rot out hopefully the temp fix will work on my truck.


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## Doom & Gloom

Ive done the JB Weld thing. Just grind the pan down to bare metal and mix it up like bondo. I did the whole pan and it looked great and worked also.


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## MickiRig1

I fixed it with the fiberglass resin and fiberglass mat. Put the torpedo heater aimed at the pan to heat it up. Even did the gas tank. All for $12 in materials and I still have half a can left. Our 3-5 inches of promised snow Friday night ended up 1 1/2 inches that was gone by 2 PM.


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## HoffHouse

*Hole in 1997 Dodge Dakota Oil Pan*

My father owns a 1997 Dodge Dakota extended cab. He keeps it in good condition, with regular tune-ups, oil changes, etc. Two years ago, the oil pan got a hole in the bottom. He sealed it with JB Weld.

The hole just reappeared. He has spent the past two days under the truck, trying to clean it out, scrub it out, and re-seal it. He tried JB Weld again (twice); it failed to hold. He tried to put in a bolt and seal around that; the threads stripped. The local car-fixer place (I don't know where exactly he went) wants $90 for a new oil pan, and $300 to pull the engine in order to get 'at' the oil pan to replace it.

Any suggestions would be very welcome, as he is getting more frustrated by the minute. He is not a computer person, so I offered to seek an online answer for him. However, Google has failed miserably in the task of assisting me.

Thank you!

--Julie


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## FTGUprprtyMaint

I have a03 ram 2500 just got my pan put in today... 65 for the parts and they go me for 200 for labor. dont have to pull motor just 2 motor mounts and jack the motor up a little to make it easier remove the sway bar. i also got a bunch of other things done to my truck FINALLY! I get it back monday evening


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## Niteman9

HoffHouse;553697 said:


> My father owns a 1997 Dodge Dakota extended cab. He keeps it in good condition, with regular tune-ups, oil changes, etc. Two years ago, the oil pan got a hole in the bottom. He sealed it with JB Weld.
> 
> The hole just reappeared. He has spent the past two days under the truck, trying to clean it out, scrub it out, and re-seal it. He tried JB Weld again (twice); it failed to hold. He tried to put in a bolt and seal around that; the threads stripped. The local car-fixer place (I don't know where exactly he went) wants $90 for a new oil pan, and $300 to pull the engine in order to get 'at' the oil pan to replace it.
> 
> Any suggestions would be very welcome, as he is getting more frustrated by the minute. He is not a computer person, so I offered to seek an online answer for him. However, Google has failed miserably in the task of assisting me.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> --Julie


Drain the oil. Wire brush area then clean with brake clean. Cut a patch of sheet metal. Cover patch with JBWeld like you would making a peanut butter sandwich. Put sheet metal patch over hole. Wait for the JBWeld to cure. Cover entire area with entire tube of JBWeld about 1/8 thick. Wait for the JBWeld to cure refill with oil. Should hold up real well.


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