# 2011 2500HD Alternator issues while plowing



## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

So I was plowing the road to the family cabin last weekend and about halfway through my blower motor started to die out and noticed the voltmeter was at the lower hash mark just above 9 volts. a few seconds later I would here a screech from the engine compartment and voltage would slowly go back up. Anyone else have this happen ? Only thing I can think of is snow getting in the engine compartment and getting the alternator wet ?


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## PlowMan03 (Dec 31, 2003)

I had the same thing happen to me in my 2010 Chevrolet last weekend with the light snow. Been fine ever since now the belt squeaks a little bit more now.


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## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

I always have the belt squeak when plowing the road but this is the first time I have lost power. These charging systems are getting so complicated and are tied into many other systems on the vehicle so I have no idea where to start.


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## Jakedaawg (Dec 29, 2013)

That is normal for the newer chevys. The computer now excites the alternator. It takes a couple of minutes for the puter to sense the need for charge and then tells the alternator to produce it. If, there is a great demand, the computer ask for full field immediately instead of ramping it up instantly as in the old systems. This intense immediate demand is what causes the belt squeal. Unfortunately, once the squeal starts happening it will only get worse with time. A new premium quaolity belt, new tensioner assembly and new idler and alternator pulleys will help but only for a while. This squealing may also be more noticeable on very cold dry days with very light, fine snow.


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## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

Plowed the road yesterday and was horrible. Alternatior quit about every 500 feet and could not see anything as defroster performance next to nothing

Had to stop every time and let the truck sit for a minute for the alternator / defroster to kick back on. 

Could the snow getting on the alternator be causing this ? I have power washed engine compartments without any alternator issues so I can't see how a little snow would cause this .

Surely this problem would be the same for any new GM truck with gas engine unless your plowing the wet heavy stuff .


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## Jakedaawg (Dec 29, 2013)

new belt, new tensioner and idler pulley. really. not kidding.


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## HDPOWER (Aug 31, 2011)

I noticed the same thing on my last plow job except I don't have the belt noise. All of my lights dim when using the plow and the blower motor goes to low speed. I actually get flickering headlights even when the plow is off like when I roll down the window or traction control kicks in. Just seems like there is something we could do to fix this.


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## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

Jakedaawg;1737832 said:


> new belt, new tensioner and idler pulley. really. not kidding.


I popped the hood and checked the alternator eveytime I stopped the truck and the alternator was spinning

What I may try this afternoon is secure a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and see what happens


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

sagent;1738856 said:


> I popped the hood and checked the alternator eveytime I stopped the truck and the alternator was spinning
> 
> What I may try this afternoon is secure a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and see what happens


Dude seriously.

You either have a bad tensioner, bad at, bad battery, or a combination of all

Check your tensioner. You shouldn't be able to move the belt more than an inch or two when pushing on it.

If that checks out have your battery tested. Bad battery will bring down alt test results.

Last check alt output


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## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

Well, blocking off the radiator did nothing but did not cover entire grill area. Will try new tensioner next. Have noticed on other forums GM is having a lot of problems with their batteries in the newer trucks but it just started fine a few weeks ago with low temps 
-30 F. 

Have noticed also seems like voltage is not recovering very fast when raising the blade. If I am driving down the road with plow fully raised and double tap the controller, the voltage will drop to about 1/4 inch below the 14 volt mark and will not go back up to the 14 volt mark for at least a minute


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## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

There is a way around this computer controlled alt. problem. My mechanic, (certified genius), says there is a way to disable this feature in the software. Requires sifting thru lines of code then modifying it. Then it allows the alt. to function like older models= charge full output all the time. I have no idea how to do it but have seen it work. Amazing what he can do with the proper equipment. Others have asked if they can self excite the alt. with relay or manual switched 12v+ but i don't know if that would set a trouble code or not. Does anyone know if GM has reflash update to help with this problem??? Call me curious.....


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## tlrlc (Feb 24, 2007)

2012 2500hd 6.0 western wideout… i found this thread today because i had the same problem last night plowing
have never had the controller shut off before on this truck. yesterday the voltage would not recover like it would in the past. (only 21K on truck and maybe half dozen plow events)
i had to shut off climate control, wipers, radio… just to get voltage to catch up… i was cycling pretty heavy but i got the snow plow prep with hi output alternator. i checked wire to alternator and seems like a decent gauge considering my 1999 k3500 had a joke for a charging wire.. any help?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

tlrlc;1746462 said:


> 2012 2500hd 6.0 western wideout… i found this thread today because i had the same problem last night plowing
> have never had the controller shut off before on this truck. yesterday the voltage would not recover like it would in the past. (only 21K on truck and maybe half dozen plow events)
> i had to shut off climate control, wipers, radio… just to get voltage to catch up… i was cycling pretty heavy but i got the snow plow prep with hi output alternator. i checked wire to alternator and seems like a decent gauge considering my 1999 k3500 had a joke for a charging wire.. any help?


Before you do anything

Get the battery tested. And then the alternator


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

battery poers the plow...alt replaces the power...a squel is a belt slip if all else is good, change the belt...buy a new battery with more cca, if you look a lot of oem are 600 cca


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

2013 Silverado 1500 with snowplow package 1400 miles

I have the same problem everybody else has been talking about. Voltmeter dipped down to about 9 volts the other day so I stopped plowing and revved it up to make it charge. The voltmeter slowly recovered to above 14V and I charged for awhile and parked the truck. Yesterday the truck would not start and I had to put it on the charger for an hour to get it to start. I took it for a cruise to charge the battery, did my plowing and parked it. I then put the battery charger on it and since it was drawing 10 amps I left it on overnight.

If this is what Chevy calls a snowplow package featuring a high output alternator I am not impressed. Time for a talk with the dealer it seems.

I am beginning to think I should have kept my '78 F-150. I never had any issues like this with that old Ford and my old Meyer plow. The alternator on the old Ford didn't put out nowhere near what this Chevy alternator is rated at although maybe the old Meyer didn't draw the current required by a newer plow.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Sounds like you have a draw going on and it's screwed up your battery


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

Yeah the draw is the plow and the high output alternator is "supposed" to handle it, but apparently isn't.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

I say this every year when guys look to replace batteries. ITS THE RESERVE CAPACITY NOT THE COLD CRANKING AMPS. Buy the battery with the highest reserve capacity you can find. Deka makes some with really high reserve capacity. And yes, check alt. out put (should be putting out somewhere around 14.4V) and the battery should be around 13.8. The squealing could be a few things, bad belt, a tensioner pulley failing or simply snow mist getting into the belt. My Fords do that when the snow is really powdery but they don't start to shut down, just squeal for a few seconds.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

Also, your heater probably uses as much draw as your plow does when its running on a higher setting. Not sure how you run but I know guys (like one of mine) who plow with the windows pretty much all the way down but the heater on high the entire night and hate when the plow lights dim all the time. Well get the cab to a comfortable temp and regulate it with the windows being up or down.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

rswojo;1759694 said:


> Yeah the draw is the plow and the high output alternator is "supposed" to handle it, but apparently isn't.


No a draw when truck is off.


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## skostur79 (Oct 20, 2012)

add 2nd battery for reserve and use tow/ haul mode for more enable from PCM/ECM


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

skostur79;1760004 said:


> add 2nd battery for reserve and use tow/ haul mode for more enable from PCM/ECM


Thanks, that sounds like a good idea. I'll try tow/haul mode Monday to see if it improves things.

I did all my plowing in granny gear with the old F-150. The battery in that truck likely had less reserve capacity than my present battery. The alternator rating was definitely lower. The plow was heavier and most likely less efficient in its electrical usage. The difference was the lower gear/higher rpm's. I didn't have problems with the plow draining the battery in that truck. Tow/haul should keep me in a lower gear/higher rpm's and that might take care of the problem.

I plow 20 to 45 minutes per snowfall depending on amount of snow.

If I still have problems I will have to get a 2nd battery.


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

I could try plowing in 4WD Low and/or set the transmission manual selector so the highest gear is 2nd.........yes/no?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

rswojo;1760775 said:


> I could try plowing in 4WD Low and/or set the transmission manual selector so the highest gear is 2nd.........yes/no?


This isn't going to fix your issue. What you have going on is not normal at all.

You need to check of you have a draw with the truck off. And then you need to get your battery tested. After that you need to check resistance on your plow cables


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## skostur79 (Oct 20, 2012)

rswojo;1760775 said:


> I could try plowing in 4WD Low and/or set the transmission manual selector so the highest gear is 2nd.........yes/no?


just use normal drive and 4wd with towhaul on

its not going to hold gears changes unless u plow over 40 mph

theres no reason not to add a 2nd battery the tray is there 
it will be worth it due the electrical demands


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

skostur79;1760855 said:


> just use normal drive and 4wd with towhaul on
> 
> its not going to hold gears changes unless u plow over 40 mph
> 
> ...


We got a little snow last night. So on a fully charged battery I plowed with tow/haul on today. I was doing a lot of cycling. My voltmeter dropped a little below 14V at times while plowing but recovered to above 14V. When it drops below 14V it seems to take a minute or so to recover. As I taxied up my 500 ft. driveway to park it came back above 14V and stayed there while I idled for a few minutes to observe the voltmeter behavior. So things seem better with tow/haul on, so far.

I could understand a second battery if I was commercial. An earlier poster in this thread stated the plow uses about as much current as a fully on heater blower. One battery should be able to handle that. Right? If a second battery is required it should be included with a snow plow package IMO.

I plan on monitoring the situation while plowing in tow/haul mode. If the problem does not reoccur, life is good. I also plan on calling GM to discuss the intricacies of their computer controlled charging system.

If I continue to have problems I will get by with my battery charger until snow season is over, I NEED my plow, especially this winter.

Thanks for the suggestions, now I have some idea of how to proceed. I will post my findings when I find them.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

It's really not rocket science. You do not need two batteries for what you're doing. 

You have something going on with your battery. You may have a parasitic drain that has sucked the life put of your battery by you having to recharge it all the time.


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## skostur79 (Oct 20, 2012)

you probably dont have a draw unless u jump start it every day , make sure if u have the overhead switch on the off , i see a couple come in with it on and it will cause draw even if not hooked to anything 

but back to op

if its better with tow haul stick with it no damage will happen 

i work at gm dealer and since they went to that rvc change 
that's sstarted problems with everything else due to low 
voltage 

yes u have plow prep thats just a skid plate and slightly more amp alt but from what i see in the field a 2nd battery will help , it not something gm will pay for 

but for peace of mind its worth it


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

skostur79;1761324 said:


> you probably dont have a draw unless u jump start it every day , make sure if u have the overhead switch on the off , i see a couple come in with it on and it will cause draw even if not hooked to anything
> 
> but back to op
> 
> ...


I don't disagree with you. But he shouldn't have to constantly charge the battery no matter what


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

skostur79;1761324 said:


> you probably dont have a draw unless u jump start it every day , make sure if u have the overhead switch on the off , i see a couple come in with it on and it will cause draw even if not hooked to anything
> 
> but back to op
> 
> ...


GM RVC. Good hint, I am doing some reading on that.

Here is something I found:

http://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...alternator-regulated-charging-control-488787/

I also found this:

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/38nga-just-09-chevy-silverado-ls-voltage-goes.html


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## ratherbfishin (Aug 1, 2011)

I have a 2011 2500 with single battery and a 2013 3500 with dual batteries....both do the same thing...no difference at all !


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

You guys do realize the gauge is basically a dummy gauge right?


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

IMO a dummy gauge is better and more useful than an idiot light.


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

rswojo;1762603 said:


> IMO a dummy gauge is better and more useful than an idiot light.


The voltmeter is not as good as an ammeter but it did indicate and point me somewhat vaguely toward the source of my problem. It got the job done, it just required a little analysis, thankfully not a lot.

By the way, thanks to everyone who responded to my question.


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## Potscatton (Feb 18, 2014)

I have plowed for 35 years and currently have a 2012 GMC 3500 and plow with it quite regularly (for HOURS with each storm and this winter that has been several times a week!) and I have NEVER experienced the issues with battery and charging described in this thread. That suggests that the issue is specific to the vehicle involved. That said, years ago when plowing with "old style" charging systems (70's, 80's, 90's), I would have battery problems about every-other year which a new battery would solve. (I would buy Sears Die-Hards which were warranted and they'd replace them about every-other year. I would pay a prorated price for the new battery which generally was about $25). But I put THAT problem to bed when I installed a second battery and never had a charging/battery issue again. (I'd simply hook them up in parallel with not "separation/isolation circuitry. It just performed like a single "giant" capacity battery.) But since about the year 2000 with 3 GM vehicles I have used the "stock" setup (with the snow plow prep package) but NOT dual batteries and have had NO problems.


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## rswojo (Sep 24, 2010)

Potscatton;1762882 said:


> I have plowed for 35 years and currently have a 2012 GMC 3500 and plow with it quite regularly (for HOURS with each storm and this winter that has been several times a week!) and I have NEVER experienced the issues with battery and charging described in this thread. That suggests that the issue is specific to the vehicle involved. That said, years ago when plowing with "old style" charging systems (70's, 80's, 90's), I would have battery problems about every-other year which a new battery would solve. (I would buy Sears Die-Hards which were warranted and they'd replace them about every-other year. I would pay a prorated price for the new battery which generally was about $25). But I put THAT problem to bed when I installed a second battery and never had a charging/battery issue again. (I'd simply hook them up in parallel with not "separation/isolation circuitry. It just performed like a single "giant" capacity battery.) But since about the year 2000 with 3 GM vehicles I have used the "stock" setup (with the snow plow prep package) but NOT dual batteries and have had NO problems.


I used my '78 F-150, Meyer St-76 plow for 27 years plowing my long driveway and never had any problems with that either. I used cheap batteries too and I got good life out of all of them. I sold it to a friend and he has been plowing 3 driveways with no problems this winter.

Maybe the GM RVC is not the problem. I will have to plow in tow/haul for awhile to check that. If it doesn't straighten up and fly right it will go to one dealer or the other, everything is under warranty. It seemed to do better with tow/haul on the first attempt though.


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## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

Have replaced tensioner / idler pulleys and will see if it helps any. Have been in Hawaii for last two weeks so have not had chance to plow. I cannot believe between the battery and alternator that voltage / current would drop to to point that the vehicles heater / electronics would shut down. Between both, there should be about 800 amps available. I always plow in first gear on the section of road I was encountering the problem and engine is revving about 3000 rpm constantly so engine rpm made no difference 

I have in the past, also seen voltage gauge go up to nearly the 19 volt mark when cruising down the highway. Seems to me there may be problem with the BCM alternator programming


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## sagent (Jan 2, 2012)

Further to my last on this subject, about two weeks I wired in parallel a second AC Delco battery same as factory on my truck. Pulled the plow out of the garage and after raising plow, voltage drops to about 3/16ths of an inch below the 14 volt mark and stays there for at least 30 seconds. Also noticed when stopping the truck and say running into a gas station for a few minutes, when I fire it back up, voltage is at about 3/16ths of an inch above the 14 volt mark for what seems like a few minutes of driving and then settles at about 14 volts.

Anyone have any further insight / fixes for these new GM alternators in the last 9 months ?

I assume the alternator is working "properly" as have not had any other starting / charging / electrical issues


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## jimbo64 (Oct 20, 2011)

The more that computers are used to control our engines, transmissions etc. the more things can and do go wrong. I've always wondered how much thought the manufacturers gave to the conditions their vehicles are subjected to in real life especially in parts of the country where we get snow and ice and tons of salt , sand and slurry are put on the roads to control it.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Your asking if it's wrong that the volt gauge drops while operating the plow?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

As far as I know it's just a dummy guage


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## Rick547 (Oct 9, 2009)

Brian Young;1759755 said:


> I say this every year when guys look to replace batteries. ITS THE RESERVE CAPACITY NOT THE COLD CRANKING AMPS. Buy the battery with the highest reserve capacity you can find. Deka makes some with really high reserve capacity. And yes, check alt. out put (should be putting out somewhere around 14.4V) and the battery should be around 13.8. The squealing could be a few things, bad belt, a tensioner pulley failing or simply snow mist getting into the belt. My Fords do that when the snow is really powdery but they don't start to shut down, just squeal for a few seconds.


 BINGO!!

Not all batteries are created equal. A reserve capacity battery such as a combo battery that has good cold cranking amp capacity as well as a deep cycle capacity will make a huge difference.


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## tomcat01 (Jan 5, 2011)

Whiffyspark;1861696 said:


> As far as I know it's just a dummy guage


I just picked up my truck today and was playing with out in the driveway. and i noticed the gauge went down gave it a minute never recovered. went inside came out maybe an hour later started the truck and it read normal Volts.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Don't they have an actual readout in the instrument center? I know previous generation does. My sure about new


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Put a voltmeter on it and see what alternator is doing. Advance will check your battery for free


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

I am having problems with my setup as well. When I am lifting or angling the plow all the lights in the truck dim and the blower slows down. The volt meter always drops and then comes right back up. What concerns me is that at times after using the plow a lot. After pushing snow into a pile, when I go to raise the plow it struggles. I end up having to rev the engine just to get enough power to do it. 

I bought the truck this summer and has a new alternator and (supposedly) battery. The alternator looks brand new but the battery I am not sure.

I never have any trouble starting it.
My setup is a 2000 silverado 2500 HD with a MM2 EZ-V. Plow has a brand new motor and was serviced in the fall.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Again, what's the alt IDLE output....And turn off everything that you don't need


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

dieselss;1876738 said:


> Again, what's the alt IDLE output....And turn off everything that you don't need


I just checked, the battery has 12v, the alternator is putting out 14v. Its a new 280 amp alternator and the battery has 880 cold cranking amps. Everything drops down to 12v when actuating the plow. The plow is hooked up directly to the alternator. Also, the battery is only 6 months old. The plow motor is brand new. The cables and motor are not heating up when I actuate the plow.

Even if I turn everything else in the truck off the voltage drops to 12 volts when actuating the plow.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

That's normal.....


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

dieselss;1876907 said:


> That's normal.....


Is it normal for the plow not to be able to actuate sometimes? Sometimes I have to stop and rev the engine to get my volts back up and get the plow to work.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

That's why I asked what the idle amps are. And if you do a lot of moving the plow around yea it's gunna drain quicker


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## Rick547 (Oct 9, 2009)

SlamaNow;1876904 said:


> I just checked, the battery has 12v, the alternator is putting out 14v. Its a new 280 amp alternator and the battery has 880 cold cranking amps. Everything drops down to 12v when actuating the plow. The plow is hooked up directly to the alternator. Also, the battery is only 6 months old. The plow motor is brand new. The cables and motor are not heating up when I actuate the plow.
> 
> Even if I turn everything else in the truck off the voltage drops to 12 volts when actuating the plow.


The plow is hooked directly to the alternator?


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

Rick547;1877062 said:


> The plow is hooked directly to the alternator?


Yea strange eh,

That is how I bought it. My plow mechanic said it was strange but doesn't think it should cause any trouble as the alternator is hooked up to the batery.


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## CornerStoneProp (Nov 22, 2009)

I would think that any and all electrical connections will have some impedance. Hook directly to the battery as the installation manual calls for and try that. There is no way the alternator can keep up with the demand of the plow. The amp draw will be closer to your starter which requires more than a blower fan. I am not an expert but understand basic electrical theory.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Alt is hooked to the batt, it don't matter that the plow is hooked to the back of the alt. What harm is it causing

The amp draw will be closer to your starter which requires more than a blower fan.....

Not sure I understand this


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## CornerStoneProp (Nov 22, 2009)

The gauge of wire from the battery to alt will usually be smaller than you need to run the plow. As for draw, volts don't matter amps do. Hook to battery directly there is a reason the manufacturer requires it to be connected to the battery with nothing in between. As for the blower motor vs plow, the blower motor uses far less amps then the plow. I used the example of your starter which uses closer to the amp draw that your plow does. Did you notice that the starter relay is directly connected to the battery? There is a reason for this.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

I still see no need to change it. 
No never noticed the starter solenoid is hooked to the starter. And there some that don't use that set up at all.


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## jimbo64 (Oct 20, 2011)

I'm far from being an expert on anything but I believe in following a manufacturers instructions especially when it's connecting up your plow. Instructions are there for a reason and if you follow them it will certainly lessen problems in the future.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

To a degree I agree. But that's a fine line always.


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

I was reading the service manual for the plow. Under the condition "excessive load on vehicle electrical system while using snowplow" it states:

1. lift cylinder packing nut too tight - Adjust lift cylinder packing nut
2. worn or damaged motor or pump - Go to pump pressure test
3. poor connections on battery cables - inspect battery cables, clean and re-attach all connections.

They go on to say that a small amount of leaking at the packing nut is acceptable to properly lubricate the rod. I know I just had a new nut put on because it was leaking a little. that's when my troubles started.

My motor is brand new, the only two things I can think of then is to move my power cables to the battery and back off the packing nut 1/4 turn.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Move the batt cable first, I'd hold off on the packing nut.


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## t-sig (Feb 5, 2010)

SlamaNow,

Snow plows have a very large amp draw, just like a starter (mentioned earlier). Your lights will dim when using it. Most people that use their plows for hours at a time have two batteries hooked up to maximize storage. If the manual says that the packing nut could be too tight and you just had that serviced, I would try loosening it a little. It could be causing the motor to work harder than it needs to which will draw even more amps and run the battery down faster. It is a pretty big coincidence that your problems started right after having the nut replaced. As far as hooking the plow up to the battery vs alternator, the wire going from the alt to the battery was designed by GM for one purpose, to connect the alt to the battery, not to supply power to a snow plow. Is it adequate to do both? Maybe... What I can say with certainty, is that connecting directly to the battery removes that question.


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## Rick547 (Oct 9, 2009)

Move the plow cable to the battery. The battery has stored energy and a lot of it unlike the alternator.


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

Thanks guys


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

SlamaNow;1882539 said:


> Thanks guys


I never solved the problem but I have now noticed that the only time that it gives me problems going up is when the blade is in full scoop position. Does this mean that I am short on hydraulic fluid?


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## Doughboy12 (Oct 15, 2014)

SlamaNow;1943402 said:


> I never solved the problem but I have now noticed that the only time that it gives me problems going up is when the blade is in full scoop position. Does this mean that I am short on hydraulic fluid?


Wait, WHAT? if it was low oil it wouldn't go up...

It goes up slow in scoop because of the added force needed. Thumbs Up


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Maybe it's not going all of the way up?

With the wing Cylinders retracted there could be just enough to lift it.
Then not enough in scoop.

Have you checked the fluid level? And or the power connections ?


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

SnoFarmer;1943568 said:


> Maybe it's not going all of the way up?
> 
> With the wing Cylinders retracted there could be just enough to lift it.
> Then not enough in scoop.
> ...


I'm going to check the fluid levels later today. Everything on the plow moves well except for lifting in scoop. Also the wings tend to move a bit when I stack which is annoying


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## SlamaNow (Aug 13, 2014)

I tried adding oil and it was full. But when I took the plug out a lot of air pressure escescaped. Afterward it was operating a lot better. I'm betting that that had something to do with it.


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## jimbo64 (Oct 20, 2011)

When you checked the fluid were your wings fully retracted and the lift ram pushed all the way down ?


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

rswojo;1761541 said:


> GM RVC. Good hint, I am doing some reading on that.
> 
> Here is something I found:
> 
> ...


Is there anything more that has developed on this? Now, because of those links :waving:, I see 2 solutions neither of which is "ideal".
1) engage tow/haul as partial override - would prefer not to engage all the other things that may entail (I remember previously reading a post of someone talking to GM engineer and said person recommended against using it for plowing).
2) unplug amp load sensor (black module around the negative battery cable right beside the battery). Doing so puts it to 100% duty cycle I believe, which maybe short term is fine but longer term I expect shortens life of the alternator.

In a perfect world, I can think of two possible solutions:
1) Find something that will allow it to stay at 80% duty cycle unless it is sensed that 100% is needed
2) Put in a switch etc so that you could bypass the amp load sensor as needed (only when plowing etc). I guess maybe I could be less lazy and just only unplug it when needed then plug it back in...

I don't think a larger alternator would have any impact, as if computer isn't telling it to charge it won't matter. Would prefer not to put another battery in it either.

Soooo putting it out there, any other updates/suggestions? Thanks!


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

Update - I looked to find the amp load sensor/module by my battery ('12 2500HD gasser) and didn't see anything... Perhaps its only certain years, engines or half ton models? Was trying to jump a tractor with a dead battery and it was seriously struggling... Embarrassing.


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