# Strobe Mount and wiring - Backrack?



## Druski (Jan 16, 2010)

I have a 2010 250 Super Duty Supercab with a Back Rack on it. I have a simple mag mount amber strobe with a cord/cigarette lighter power on the end. (I may sell that and get a simple small perm mount light bar with low power draw) - currently whenever I want to use it I have to pull it out, put it on the roof, drag the wire in the door and plug it in etc...

I want to mount it on the Backrack - I can get the simple bracket for the back rack and I would like to wire it through the rear of the cab? I'd be happy leaving it with the cigarette lighter switch.... I just rather not have to get up and mount it every time. (dont want to leave it there as the cord, when between the door and the gasket, does leak a bit.)

Anyway as I said... I would like to wire it through the rear of the cab and not drill etc... ty-rap the wire down the rack... between the bed and the cab... are there grommets back there? Anyone able to explain the procedure to do this? How does one get thier big hands in between the cab and the Bed?

Sorry if this semms kind of .... stunned... but for the life of me I don't see how to do it? (ok I have not looked too hard yet... but kinda hoping to get an Idea before I go look)

Any tricks of the trade would be greatly appreciated... (Pics even better LOL)


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

If memory serves me correctly, Ford put a rubber grommet on the lower passenger side of the cab rear wall. I'm not sure if there's a matching one on the driver side though. You can run your wiring down from the backrack and in there. Once inside you can pull up the rocker panel kick plate (It just pulls straight up with integral clips) and run the wires safely up to the front of the truck. If you have the Upfitter Switches, run up the driver side. (The wires are terninated on that side of the truck.) If you don't, you'll probably want to run up the passenger side to end up closer to the fuse panel. If you have the Upfitter Switch panel, all you have to do is tie into the proper switch (there are high and low current draw circuits), ground the other end and you're in.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

i will post pic's tomorrow, its easy no drill.


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## Toolin Customs (Oct 24, 2010)

Ive done a few things in this scenario. Some have turned out better than others. One, Definitly run the wire inside the back rack up-tube. A small bit and a grommet will do just fine. down between the bed and cab and up under, there should be a few places for you to get into the cab. I usually go all the way up to the firewall cause i follow the other harness and am usullay putting switches in the dash. If your superduty has the aux switches your job is even easier. everything is run for you. The other option that ive used is the acari roof mount. goes in your cargo light, wires are inside under the headliner then run them any where you want. easy and well made.


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## Elite Property Services (Oct 28, 2008)

I have always had luck running the wiring under the cargo light. Very clean looking and have never had to pull the liner down which is a plus.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

Elite Property Services;1240881 said:


> I have always had luck running the wiring under the cargo light. Very clean looking and have never had to pull the liner down which is a plus.


That's what I've done on all of the trucks in our fleet, but we run mini bars on the roofs. I also use a two prong quick connect so we can swap out lights - or take them off compeletely - whenever we want. I was just thinking that with a back rack, he'd want pretty much invisible wiring.


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## Druski (Jan 16, 2010)

Too Stroked;1240451 said:


> If memory serves me correctly, Ford put a rubber grommet on the lower passenger side of the cab rear wall. I'm not sure if there's a matching one on the driver side though. You can run your wiring down from the backrack and in there.


LOL - thanks... I will have a look and see what I can find on a warmer day... probably easier to find it from the inside of the cab....



Too Stroked;1240451 said:


> If you have the Upfitter Switches, run up the driver side. (The wires are terninated on that side of the truck.) If you don't, you'll probably want to run up the passenger side to end up closer to the fuse panel.


Unfortunatly no - don't have the switches... wasn't an option that was on this truck.. (it was in stock on the lot)... but once I get the wire into the cab - I am actually happy to just use the switch on the cigarette plug. In the spring (ie warmer) I may be more adventurous to hard wire a switch into the dash...



1olddogtwo;1240496 said:


> i will post pic's tomorrow, its easy no drill.


That would be great!

And yeah I like the concept of the acari roof mount... but since the rack is already there I figured that would be the best option.... (but open to ideas etc..)

Thanks for the replies!


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## bam (Jan 14, 2001)

i would run wire thru the cab and out the rear grommet. make sure to seal the grommet with some silicone. i ran hideaway strobes on my '01 and after a rain i noticed it wet inside the truck. I put a bead of silicone at the holes on the driver and passenger grommet and never had a problem again. like previously said, pull up the floor trim and run your wire thru the floor to the front. 

other option, which we do with the salt spreader harness is to go out the firewall, typically there is a 2" hole on the left side, and run it down the frame, and bring it up between the cab and the bed. That might actually go quicker, and depending on how many/types of lights your using, you could use trailer wire (6 or 7 wires) which has the covering around it.


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## DaySpring Services (Feb 1, 2005)

On my full size light bar I ran the wires through the vent behind the rear seat. My mini bar runs through the sliding rear window.


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## snowjim88 (Jan 6, 2011)

In the future you may want to consider the ACARI drill free roof top mounting platform. It attaches through the cab center brake light hole and you run your wiring through the same hole and then drill directly into the platform. No need to drop the headliner and also no need to try to fish wires from in between the cab and the truck bed. It offers a semi-permanent solution while still being able to remove it and not having holes in your roof.

Im pretty sure it will fit even if you do have a backrack on your truck and is actually cheaper than a backrack (especially when you are charged $45 for each backrack light bracket)

Check out the ACARI website and install video (which helps answer a lot of questions)
www.acariproducts.com

Hope this helps. Good luck!


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