# Plow for 2018 F-150 w/ prep home only



## vtsnowboarder

Hi - I have about 600 feet of lightly gravelled driveway in VT at 1600 ft, mostly a straight shot w/ small incline. I'm new to plowing so easy and reliable are big factors. Are there any suitable plows that do not require mods to the body or frame? Most dumps are in the 4-8" range but 12-24 overnight is not uncommon either. 

Western site says bumper notching for the Defender and Boss talks about valence notching for the HTX straight blade. Any of you guys have a photo of what that's going to look like the rest of the year? Thanks.


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## ConnorExum

All straight plows will be realitively easy to use— you will have up,down left and right. Then you have really only two other options chain lift or hydraulic lift. If you get a chain lift then your plow free floats only; if you get a hydraulic piston lift then some will have a scrape lock function to hold the plow in position. While other hydraulic lift plows have down force to maintain a specific amount of pressure on the surface being scraped. Anyone of these features will not be hard to use. 

The bigger the receivers that the plow frame locks into the easier it is usually mount the plow. However, practice will help.


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> All straight plows will be realitively easy to use- you will have up,down left and right. Then you have really only two other options chain lift or hydraulic lift. If you get a chain lift then your plow free floats only; if you get a hydraulic piston lift then some will have a scrape lock function to hold the plow in position. While other hydraulic lift plows have down force to maintain a specific amount of pressure on the surface being scraped. Anyone of these features will not be hard to use.
> 
> The bigger the receivers that the plow frame locks into the easier it is usually mount the plow. However, practice will help.


All new plows have hydraulic cylinders the lift the plow.
Some plows use a chain that is attached to the "A" Frame of the plow and a lift arm, the lift cylinder is mounted to the headgear and lift arm which is also mounted to the head gear, this is called a chain lift. 
Other plows have the cylinder mounted to the headgear and directly mounted to the "A" frame of the plow, this is called direct lift.


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> All new plows have hydraulic cylinders the lift the plow.
> Some plows use a chain that is attached to the "A" Frame of the plow and a lift arm, the lift cylinder is mounted to the headgear and lift arm which is also mounted to the head gear, this is called a chain lift.
> Other plows have the cylinder mounted to the headgear and directly mounted to the "A" frame of the plow, this is called direct lift.


You are correct. I was not specific enough.


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## ConnorExum

If you have 12-24 inches of snow in some storms I would get a plow with at least a 27” high moldboard. That way you maximize each push.


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## cwren2472

ConnorExum said:


> If you have 12-24 inches of snow in some storms I would get a plow with at least a 27" high moldboard. That way you maximize each push.


If you actually read his post, his concern was finding a plow that wouldn't require body modifications. Can you help with that?


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## ConnorExum

cwren2472 said:


> If you actually read his post, his concern was finding a plow that wouldn't require body modifications. Can you help with that?


Clearly, you missed the entire last part of the first paragraph- where he gives environmental conditions for plowing: i.e 12-24 inches of snow overnight. So, that to me would indicate he might just want a little advice on equipment dealing with those conditions? I could be wrong, but including it seems to indicate that was his intent.

And wouldn't you agree that 27" moldboard offers better performance for the coniditions described?

Only his last paragraph talks about that other information about modifications.

My general statements neither support nor negate any of his other questions.


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## dieselss

cwren2472 said:


> Can you help with that?


No he cant....no experience with 1/2 plow trucks


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## cwren2472

ConnorExum said:


> Only his last paragraph talks about that other information about modifications.


Uh, do you not see sentence #3, prior to him mentioning anything about the snowfall amounts?

Edit: actually, forget it. I'm not stepping on this bear trap again.


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> Clearly, you missed the entire last part of the first paragraph- where he gives environmental conditions for plowing: i.e 12-24 inches of snow overnight. So, that to me would indicate he might just want a little advice on equipment dealing with those conditions? I could be wrong, but including it seems to indicate that was his intent of including it.
> 
> And wouldn't you agree that 27" moldboard offers better performance for the coniditions described?
> 
> Only his last paragraph talks about that other information about modifications.
> 
> My general statements neither support nor negate any of his other questions.


 Plowing deep snow with any plow rated for a 1/2ton pickup will be a challenge, a V would be the best choice.The average new 1/2ton pickup with OEM tires without chains will run out of traction before snow spills over the mold board of a straight blade plow.
He'll also never have enough ground speed to curl the snow over the windrows by middle winter.


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## the Suburbanite

What's it going to look like in the off season? 
Manly.
I don't think there's too many (if any, really) options from the larger manufacturers that wouldn't require some kind of modifications to the lower front bumper valance. I wouldn't waste my time with any of the "homeowner" plows from any of the smaller manufacturers. As far as frame "mods" I'm guessing there might be a few holes that need to be drilled.
Someone (CWren?) posted a replacement valance from one of the manufacturers to tidy up on this site not too long ago. I think it was for a 1 ton though.


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> No he cant....no experience with 1/2 plow trucks


Not true, first plow truck was a 1995-7 Chevy s1500... (not really sure of the age it might have been older)it died in the great storm 2010... blew a rod. Used it for 3 years doing the parents, cousins and rental property the parents owned. It was a junker.


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## cwren2472

BUFF said:


> The average new 1/2ton pickup with OEM tires without chains will run out of traction before


But if he _had_ tire chains, he wouldn't need a tailgate spreader


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## cwren2472

the Suburbanite said:


> Someone (CWren?) posted a replacement valance from one of the manufacturers to tidy up on this site not too long ago. I think it was for a 1 ton though.


It was me. It was for a BOSS plow, but they are only available for the Chevy/GM vehicles. Nothing for the F150 unfortunately

In the case of the Chevys, the cutting is akin to major reconstructive surgery, which is why they offer the replacement inserts. It's mostly accepted these days that virtually every application requires SOME form of cutting or trimming if the vehicle is less than 20 years old.

Even in the case of the Chevy I posted the photo of, there was still MAJOR steel cutting behind the bumper. The replacement valance just hides the stuff that we have to do to make it look more factory-ish.


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> Plowing deep snow with any plow rated for a 1/2ton pickup will be a challenge, a V would be the best choice.The average new 1/2ton pickup with OEM tires without chains will run out of traction before snow spills over the mold board of a straight blade plow.
> He'll also never have enough ground speed to curl the snow over the windrows by middle winter.


I agree the v plow would be best. But, I have plowed some deep snow with a Chevy 1500s during our epic storm of 2010. At least 20-25 inches deep of moderately wet snow. It was hard but the chains on all four tires and 600lbs of sand helped a lot.


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> , first plow truck was a 1997 Chevy s1500...


And you sourced the plow, mounted it and installed it correct?
Did all the homework the op or others do?
You plowed commercially with it correct?
And 3 years makes you an expert correct?


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## ConnorExum

cwren2472 said:


> But if he _had_ tire chains, he wouldn't need a tailgate spreader


Probably, wouldn't if you have an aggressive pair for ice like Trygg studded or Pewag ASV , Uniradial or Rud Profilegristeg, Supergreifsteg etc... all really bite into the ice.


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## cwren2472

dieselss said:


> And 3 years makes you an expert correct?


Hey, in his defense, 30 minutes of youtube makes a lot of other people "experts"

Correction: 30 minutes of youtube + "my buddy told me..."


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## dieselss

cwren2472 said:


> But if he _had_ tire chains, he wouldn't need a tailgate spreader


Didnt think they were an option....but hey throw out left field ideas


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## dieselss

cwren2472 said:


> Hey, in his defense, 30 minutes of youtube makes a lot of other people "experts"


True and 1 EPIC snow...dont forget that


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## cwren2472

dieselss said:


> Didnt think they were an option....but hey throw out left field ideas


I'm told that tire chains, like failure, are always an option


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> And you sourced the plow, mounted it and installed it correct?
> Did all the homework the op or others do?
> You plowed commercially with it correct?
> And 3 years makes you an expert correct?


No, I didn't even buy that truck the pop's bought it used- I just drove it to plow however.

https://www.plowsite.com/threads/street-cred.173344/


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## ConnorExum

cwren2472 said:


> I'm told that tire chains, like failure, are always an option


I guess that's why they use them on off road equipment in snow and ice on improvised roads for oil exploration, forestry work, and just getting around off road in loose soil.


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> No, I didn't even buy that truck the pop's bought it used- I just drove it to plow however.
> 
> https://www.plowsite.com/threads/street-cred.173344/


So that makes you an expert,? or that puts you in same shoes as someone looking for there first plow? Or which for there truck?


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> So that makes you an expert,? or that puts you in same shoes as someone looking for there first plow? Or which for there truck?


How about all the years I did do it professionally?


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> How about all the years I did do it professionally?


3....that's alot...with the 1/2 ton.
Just let it go


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> True and 1 EPIC snow...dont forget that


My experience is mostly parking lots of restaurants and few other things like storage places and so on. No driveways but our own and the cousins.


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## cwren2472

dieselss said:


> 3....that's alot...with the 1/2 ton.
> Just let it go


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> 3....that's alot...with the 1/2 ton.
> Just let it go


professionally we used a '97 GMC 2500 with 8'6 straight used fisher plow and a '99 GMC 2500 with 8'6 Meyers again used.

S1500 died in 2010

The 1500 was the Chevy. They are all the same really. So, I use it sort of interchangeablely but 3/4 ton trucks were both GMC's I was thinking about the 1/2 ton and wrote the wrong thing.


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## the Suburbanite

OP, CWren is on point, and there's more than a few options for your new truck. I would put some consideration into getting winter/studded tires along with the plow. Then you want to think of ballast in the back. Tube sand seems to be a pretty good option, it's there if you need to spread it for traction. You don't want to be the guy with the nice truck and plow stuck in a snowbank. 
Standard disclaimer here: look at all the models, go with your closest/best dealer.


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## BUFF

the Suburbanite said:


> What's it going to look like in the off season?
> Manly.
> I don't think there's too many (if any, really) options from the larger manufacturers that wouldn't require some kind of modifications to the lower front bumper valance. I wouldn't waste my time with any of the "homeowner" plows from any of the smaller manufacturers. As far as frame "mods" I'm guessing there might be a few holes that need to be drilled.
> Someone (CWren?) posted a replacement valance from one of the manufacturers to tidy up on this site not too long ago. I think it was for a 1 ton though.


Just take the valance thingy oof. I took mine oof my '15 SD before it was torn oof.


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## vtsnowboarder

Just following up:

I run studded Nokians on the truck and have chains if necessary (my road has a big hill that is ..interesting.. in icy weather). Plan on using tube sand for ballast in whatever amount is recommended. And if there is a big storm I'd probably try to be out there before things got over 12". 

So yeah, mostly interested if any of the half-ton plows out there don't require mods, or if they do, the one that does the least cutting. No dealers are 'close' but based on a few recs I've been considering Western Defender and the Boss HTX. I think I'm also a limited by front gawr of 3450.


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## ConnorExum

Well according to the Western Quick Match program your truck needs 470lbs of ballast. That's what 7.83 bags at 60lbs each. So, you'll need 8 bags. That's a lot of sand....


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## vtsnowboarder

ConnorExum said:


> Well according to the Western Quick Match program your truck needs 470lbs of ballast. That's what 7.83 bags at 60lbs each. So, you'll need 8 bags. That's a lot of sand....


I had four back there last winter.. they really don't take up that much space - very dense packing.


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## ConnorExum

So, why the Defender and Boss HTX? The Defender isn't really in the same class as the Boss HTX-- it is a much lighter plow 290-297lbs with 16 gauge moldboard and the Boss is 390-440lbs with 14 gauge moldboards in steel and stainless steel with 1/4 inch poly as an option. The Boss HTX has a 26 inch moldboard height which is nice if you go to bed and find 8-10 or more inches of snow on your drive in the morning. I like that over the 23.5 inches with the Defender's design. Also the extra 100-120lbs depending on size between the two I think favors the construction of the Boss over that of the Western. 

I'm just curious what your thoughts are on why those two?


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## ConnorExum

vtsnowboarder said:


> I had four back there last winter.. they really don't take up that much space - very dense packing.


Well, I was thinking mostly how you have to position them generally behind the rear axle to get the best results. So, I was think wow--you're going to have to stack those bags in a pretty small space to get maximum effectiveness. So, that got me thinking of the retaining device you would need to keep the weigh as far back in the bed as possible. So, that was really what I was thinking about. I don't use pick up trucks so-- I was thinking wow-- can you fit all 8 bags behind the rear axle.


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## vtsnowboarder

ConnorExum said:


> I'm just curious what your thoughts are on why those two?


A friend who worked for a DPW said they had found Western to be very reliable plows and he thought the Defender would be enough plow for my personal use. The Boss is just an alternative that I found that a) can go on the f-150 b) has a dealer within 50 miles and c) didn't have too much internet hate.


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## 1olddogtwo

ConnorExum said:


> If you have 12-24 inches of snow in some storms I would get a plow with at least a 27" high moldboard. That way you maximize each push.


If he wakes up to 24 inches of fresh snow...... The least of his concern will be the height of the moldboard.


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## BUFF

1olddogtwo said:


> If he wakes up to 24 inches of fresh snow...... The least of his concern will be the height of the moldboard.


Then he should look into a trusty steed like a Walter with a V and Wings.


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## ConnorExum

1olddogtwo said:


> If he wakes up to 24 inches of fresh snow...... The least of his concern will be the height of the moldboard.


It does happen.


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## cwren2472

BUFF said:


> Then he should look into a trusty steed like a Walter with a V and Wings.


Or an arctic sectional for his F150. Can't go wrong with one of those bad boys.

Whoops, sorry! Forgot those were 3/4 ton and up only. Oh well.


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## ConnorExum

Wouldn’t it be easier to just create a Top Ten Craziest Sugguestions or Personal Plow Truck’s thread leave everyone else’s alone?


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> Wouldn't it be easier to just create a Top Ten Craziest Sugguestions or Personal Plow Truck's thread leave everyone else's alone?


It's been done.....
Find a mirror and you'll find oot my who....


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## ConnorExum

Back to the original poster we had a Western on our S1500 7’6” I think with a chain lift. It was the best part of the truck. It was a commercial grade unit and I was very happy with it. Truck not so much. I think you would be extremely happy with a Western. I just think a heavier plow will last longer and be a better investment over all. 

Which is why I would pick the Boss you mentioned it’s heavier and taller moldboard will increase your capacity. But I think either one would make you happy.


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> It's been done.....
> Find a mirror and you'll find oot my who....


I think you missed my point... but that's okay.


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> Back to the original poster we had a Western on our S1500


What does the "S" stand for and what year was it?


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> What does the "S" stand for and what year was it?


I thought in the 1990' s they were called S 1500, S 2500, or S 3500. But I was wrong it was a GMT400 so it was still a k driveline. I guess I care more to keep the models of other things correctly accounted for in my head.


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> I thought in the 1990' s they were called S 1500, S 2500, or S 3500. But I was wrong it was a GMT400 so it was still a k driveline. I guess I care more to keep the models of other things correctly accounted for in my head.


So a K1500 from the 90's, early of late '90's.


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> So a K1500 from the 90's, early of late '90's.


I think it was a 95 maybe a 97...


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> I think it was a 95 maybe a 97...


ok....


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> ok....


Like I said I didn't buy it.


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> . I guess I care more to keep the models of other things correctly accounted for in my head.


So just leave threads that you know nothing about alone.



ConnorExum said:


> I think with a chain lift.


You THINK? Really Clark?



ConnorExum said:


> I think you would be extremely happy with a Western. I just think a heavier plow will last longer and be a better investment over all.


Like what a road plow? 
Stick to your off topic threads where you you know it all.


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## ConnorExum

cwren2472 said:


> Or an arctic sectional for his F150. Can't go wrong with one of those bad boys.
> 
> Whoops, sorry





dieselss said:


> So just leave threads that you know nothing about alone.
> 
> You THINK? Really Clark?
> 
> Like what a road plow?
> Stick to your off topic threads where you you know it all.


I should have used a comma. That was confusing it should have read 7'6" I think, with a chain lift. I was unsure of the length not the lift system.

No, I think the heavier Boss model he likes would be great for his application.


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> No, I think the heavier Boss model he likes would be great for his application.


And your vast knowledge of boss plows makes you an expert on them correct?


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> should have used a comma. That was confusing


Thinking before talking seems to be a real problem dont it...


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> And your vast knowledge of boss plows makes you an expert on them correct?


Thanks for the vote of confidence.


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> So just leave threads that you know nothing about alone.
> 
> You THINK? Really Clark?
> 
> Like what a road plow?
> Stick to your off topic threads where you you know it all.


Let's be honest as long as a person picks one of the major brands' plows for your application you will be okay for the most part. 90% of the comments will be basically opinions with supporting facts based personal experience. Which is great but is statistically speaking anecdotal in nature.


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## dieselss

ConnorExum said:


> 90% of the comments will be basically opinions with supporting facts based personal experience. Which is great but is statistically speaking anecdotal in nature.


So you just throw out a plow manufacturer and hope it sticks.
What's your knowledge of ANY of the majors ones for a 3/4 truck? How many yrs experience do you have with them?


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## ConnorExum

dieselss said:


> So you just throw out a plow manufacturer and hope it sticks.
> What's your knowledge of ANY of the majors ones for a 3/4 truck? How many yrs experience do you have with them?


So, you are going to claim that Fisher, Western, Or Boss really are going to be all that different? I used Fisher and Meyers commercially they were both used and I had them refurbished at a local place. I cannot recall any major failures in that time. We used them for 4 years.

I sorta like the Fisher heavy duty 9' HD2 plow since I did mostly flat parking lots for restaurants most were gravel locally but others were paved. I liked the fisher a lot but our old Meyers wasn't bad. I hear the new ones are bad. I would say no to a boss or a western either.


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> So, you are going to claim that Fisher, Western, Or Boss really are going to be all that different? I used Fisher and Meyers commercially they were both used and I had them refurbished at a local place. I cannot recall any major failures in that time. We used them for 4 years.
> 
> I sorta like the Fisher heavy duty 9' HD2 plow since I did mostly flat parking lots for restaurants most were gravel locally but others were paved. I liked the fisher a lot but our old Meyers wasn't bad. I hear the new ones are bad. I would say no to a boss or a western either.


When using the Fisher in the gravel lots did you have any issues with gravel getting stuck in the trip edge when the ground wasn't frozen in the fall and spring?


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## Randall Ave

BUFF said:


> When using the Fisher in the gravel lots did you have any issues with gravel getting stuck in the trip edge when the ground wasn't frozen in the fall and spring?


The direct lift Fishers didn't have that problem, specialty plows only sold on the East coast.


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> When using the Fisher in the gravel lots did you have any issues with gravel getting stuck in the trip edge when the ground wasn't frozen in the fall and spring?


Well, with gravel we always used shoes to keep the blades up usually about 1/4 to 3/8 of and inch when frozen just to make sure we didn't scrape any of the surface off. And in the spring we increased height of the edge to 7/8ths of an inch to compensate for the soft materials. We only really tripped the edges on the gravel if really scalped it. Most of the time if the shoes dug in a little and we scraped the stones it didn't trip the edge.


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> Well, with gravel we always used shoes to keep the blades up usually about 1/4 to 3/8 of and inch when frozen just to make sure we didn't scrape any of the surface off. And in the spring we increased height of the edge to 7/8ths of an inch to compensate for the soft materials. We only really tripped the edges on the gravel if really scalped it. Most of the time if the shoes dug in a little and we scraped the stones it didn't trip the edge.


Huh..... My experience with shoes on trip edge and full trip plows has been they still dig in, the plow still trips especially if it was a rain to snow event which is common in the fall and spring.
When you say "*we scraped the stones it didn't trip the edge"* you mean the edge never tripped?
When you said "gravel" was the gravel several inches thick sitting on 3/4-1" road base or just road base?


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> Huh..... My experience with shoes on trip edge and full trip plows has been they still dig in, the plow still trips especially if it was a rain to snow event which is common in the fall and spring.
> When you say "*we scraped the stones it didn't trip the edge"* you mean the edge never tripped?
> When you said "gravel" was the gravel several inches thick sitting on 3/4-1" road base or just road base?


Some were challenging for sure. And you are right depending on the surface condition and material we had a lot of tripping of the edge or the moldboard. But when that occurred we might jack up the plow a little more. I don't really remember it being a huge issue except one place had new gravel I don't know the exact size but about 1-1.25 inches long. That was pain that would trip a lot when soft. Most others had stones 1/4 to 3/8 inch stone so you needed to scrape a big clump up to trip it. Especially when soften.


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## Avalanche 2500

vtsnowboarder said:


> Hi - I have about 600 feet of lightly gravelled driveway in VT at 1600 ft, mostly a straight shot w/ small incline. I'm new to plowing so easy and reliable are big factors. Are there any suitable plows that do not require mods to the body or frame? Most dumps are in the 4-8" range but 12-24 overnight is not uncommon either.
> 
> Western site says bumper notching for the Defender and Boss talks about valence notching for the HTX straight blade. Any of you guys have a photo of what that's going to look like the rest of the year? Thanks.


VT/ ck. out a Snowdogg plow it's stainless and costs a lot less $. I have a 75hd 3yrs now w/no problems purchased in NH/no sales tax ! A md 75 should fit on your F 150 but pushing 12"-24" of wet heavy snow is not recommended for any truck...too much wear + tear !!! U must go out and plow, keep up w/ the storm. Off the record I've skied Killington and have been to the Wobbly Barn for a few


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## the Suburbanite

BUFF said:


> What does the "S" stand for and what year was it?


The Chevy/GM "S-" trucks were the mini trucks, IIRC. S-10, S-15

OP: If you've never plowed, and you're on gravel, don't sweat it. Plan on doing some clean-up in the spring. I'm running one of the lighter Western straight blades on my (current) K2500 Suburban, and had a Fisher MM1 on my old K1500 Suburban. I get gravel with both of them. As I only really plow my driveway (350', gravel/crusher) it has taken me a season or two to feel "dialed in" with both. That included shoes/no shoes, floating (or not), and old fashioned general experimentation with techniques.

If you're really worried about the valance, you could probably pick up a used plow truck (with plow) for the price of a brand new plow on your 2018 F150.

PS: most gravel on lawn was the season after thesummer I put 125+ yards of gravel down on my driveway.:hammerhead:


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## 1olddogtwo

How about them cubbies?


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## BUFF

ConnorExum said:


> Some were challenging for sure. And you are right depending on the surface condition and material we had a lot of tripping of the edge or the moldboard. But when that occurred we might jack up the plow a little more. I don't really remember it being a huge issue except one place had new gravel I don't know the exact size but about 1-1.25 inches long. That was pain that would trip a lot when soft. Most others had stones 1/4 to 3/8 inch stone so you needed to scrape a big clump up to trip it. Especially when soften.


Ok, BTW Gravel /Rock is sized by diameter not length. This is a result of the size of the screen used in the pit.
When you had stones hold the trip edge open how did you remove it?


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## Mark Oomkes




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## BUFF

Mark Oomkes said:


> View attachment 184614


Sez you...... Looking for feedback on plowing gravel with a trip edge. Grandpa has a 12ft HLA trip edge plow for his NH TV -140 and over the summer we graded and hauled in / spread aboot 200ton road base on the driveway / road (1mile long) leading up to the main ranch house. Prior to the road base the driveway / road was rough and a PTIA to plow.


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## ConnorExum

BUFF said:


> Ok, BTW Gravel /Rock is sized by diameter not length. This is a result of the size of the screen used in the pit.
> When you had stones hold the trip edge open how did you remove it?


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## Mark Oomkes

BUFF said:


> Sez you...... Looking for feedback on plowing gravel with a trip edge. Grandpa has a 12ft HLA trip edge plow for his NH TV -140 and over the summer we graded and hauled in / spread aboot 200ton road base on the driveway / road (1mile long) leading up to the main ranch house. Prior to the road base the driveway / road was rough and a PTIA to plow.


I was referring to the ONE and ONLY question the OP axed.


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## BUFF

Mark Oomkes said:


> I was referring to the ONE and ONLY question the OP axed.


Thumbs Up


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## vtsnowboarder

Avalanche 2500 said:


> VT/ ck. out a Snowdogg plow it's stainless and costs a lot less $. I have a 75hd 3yrs now w/no problems purchased in NH/no sales tax ! A md 75 should fit on your F 150 but pushing 12"-24" of wet heavy snow is not recommended for any truck...too much wear + tear !!! U must go out and plow, keep up w/ the storm. Off the record I've skied Killington and have been to the Wobbly Barn for a few


Thanks for the rec. I think I looked at the snowdoggs but they require a lot of ballast, think 700 to 800 lbs?


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## NoProblem

You might get some answers or useful ideas from this link: https://www.plowsite.com/threads/i-put-a-sno-way-plow-on-a-2014-silverado-1500.155939/


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## m_ice

ConnorExum said:


> Not true, first plow truck was a 1995-7 Chevy s1500... (not really sure of the age it might have been older)it died in the great storm 2010... blew a rod. Used it for 3 years doing the parents, cousins and rental property the parents owned. It was a junker.


So you started with a junker??? It all makes sense now.


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## ConnorExum

m_ice said:


> So you started with a junker??? It all makes sense now.


What makes sense now? My awesomeness? You know I am the dude...


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## cwren2472

ConnorExum said:


> What makes sense now? My awesomeness? You know I am the dude...


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## Mike_PS

once again, let's stay on point


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## dieselss

Michael J. Donovan said:


> once again, let's stay on point


You see who took it off point right....just sayin


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## vtsnowboarder

For those who made have used both, which is easier to get plow attached - ultramount (original) or smarthitch 2? Or are they about the same? Narrowed down after talking to dealers to Western HTS or Boss HTX both in 7'6"


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## ConnorExum

vtsnowboarder said:


> For those who made have used both, which is easier to get plow attached - ultramount (original) or smarthitch 2? Or are they about the same? Narrowed down after talking to dealers to Western HTS or Boss HTX both in 7'6"


The receiver socket's size will determine the ease of mounting... the wider and more flared that socket is the more forgiving it is on alignment issues.


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## AesSedai

vtsnowboarder said:


> Hi - I have about 600 feet of lightly gravelled driveway in VT at 1600 ft, mostly a straight shot w/ small incline. I'm new to plowing so easy and reliable are big factors. Are there any suitable plows that do not require mods to the body or frame? Most dumps are in the 4-8" range but 12-24 overnight is not uncommon either.
> 
> Western site says bumper notching for the Defender and Boss talks about valence notching for the HTX straight blade. Any of you guys have a photo of what that's going to look like the rest of the year? Thanks.


So, I know I'm pretty late to the conversation here, but I'd just like to throw in my 2 cents...
I sell snow plows professionally- Western, Fisher and SnowEx to be exact. Unfortunately, on most half-ton trucks you will likely need bumper notching with any plow unless you went for a super cheap style of plow. 
Ford F150's are the most difficult of the half-tons to put a plow on because they have so many variables hat don't allow certain plows, or sometimes no plows at all. For example, you cannot put any plow on an F150 with the EcoBoost engine (at least, you're really not supposed to, and most dealers won't even touch one due to liability issues). 
For your specific model year, the 2018, I would highly recommend the Fisher SD plow- as long as you have he 5.0 V8 engine. Yes, it does require bumper notching but unfortunately, you probably won't be able to get away from that whichever direction you decide to go. We recommend the Fisher SD for pretty much all 1/2 ton pick-ups simply because (a) it's a great plow for homeowner use whilst still having some nice weight to it and (b) because you will not need a leveling kit to bring up the nose of the truck for ground clearance. All other brands will require it, but the Fisher SD, the brackets do not sit so low, thus giving you the ground clearance you need. 
If you have any other questions, I'll be more than happy to answer!


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## cwren2472

AesSedai said:


> . For example, you cannot put any plow on an F150 with the EcoBoost engine (at least, you're really not supposed to, and most dealers won't even touch one due to liability issues).


While the 5.0l with plow prep package is preferred, the 2018 does have recommended applications even with the Ecoboost.


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## AesSedai

cwren2472 said:


> While the 5.0l with plow prep package is preferred, the 2018 does have recommended applications even with the Ecoboost.


You are right. I should have specified Fisher/Western because I honestly can't speak for other brands. While they do make a plow that will go on it they specify the following:
"This vehicle meets all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards and Douglas Dynamic's performance characteristics when the snowplow selected is properly installed. The manufacturer of this vehicle has not approved it for snowplow application and may, at its discretion, not honor warranty coverage for issues it deems are snowplow use related. Douglas Dynamics does not assume any liability for any damage to a motor vehicle resulting from the attachment or from the use of a Douglas Dynamics snowplow. Requires Shift-On-The-Fly part time 4x4 transmission. Not for use on trucks equipped with Torque On Demand automatic 4WD."
Problems being that the plows tend to block the air intake on the turbo which can result in overheating. Also may draw to much power from the battery causing issues with power steering. I have seen plenty plenty of people who went ahead and did it anyways and have not had issues initially, it's not a risk I would personally take on such a new and expensive vehicle- especially since Ford may void the warranty at their discretion (and let's face it- dealerships are looking for ANY excuse to not honor warranties.)


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## vtsnowboarder

Thanks for the followup I'm sure it will help others down the road as well. I ended up getting a Western HTS which seems pretty similar to that Fisher, just a little less beefy. I'm running it with 480lbs of tube sand ballast.

As to the F-150 (2018), I'm annoyed as it looks like adding chains for the really bad stuff is not an option due to clearance. Perhaps with non-OEM sized tires but my Nokians are going to be around quite a few years so I'm stuck there. 

A few general/newbie comments 

I've had no issues with engine temperature but even driving with the blade turned the outdoor air temp sensor is useless, seen it hit as high as 100. Not sure if that is relocatable. 

Can't drive with the blade fully turned as the clearnance on the corner is too low - clipped the ground on uneven ground. So I just keep it at about half way to still give a little more airflow than running straight. 

Haven't bought chain/cable/lock yet to keep it outside when not in use so been storing in the garage. This probably applies to outside as well, but even driving in at a small vertical angle makes it a real pain in the **s to mount. Been dropping it now closer to the back of the open bay so all four wheels are level on the slab when the horns go in. Might be a little more forgiving outside where the ground may provide a little more resistance to movement.


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## AesSedai

vtsnowboarder said:


> Thanks for the followup I'm sure it will help others down the road as well. I ended up getting a Western HTS which seems pretty similar to that Fisher, just a little less beefy. I'm running it with 480lbs of tube sand ballast.
> 
> As to the F-150 (2018), I'm annoyed as it looks like adding chains for the really bad stuff is not an option due to clearance. Perhaps with non-OEM sized tires but my Nokians are going to be around quite a few years so I'm stuck there.
> 
> A few general/newbie comments
> 
> I've had no issues with engine temperature but even driving with the blade turned the outdoor air temp sensor is useless, seen it hit as high as 100. Not sure if that is relocatable.
> 
> Can't drive with the blade fully turned as the clearnance on the corner is too low - clipped the ground on uneven ground. So I just keep it at about half way to still give a little more airflow than running straight.
> 
> Haven't bought chain/cable/lock yet to keep it outside when not in use so been storing in the garage. This probably applies to outside as well, but even driving in at a small vertical angle makes it a real pain in the **s to mount. Been dropping it now closer to the back of the open bay so all four wheels are level on the slab when the horns go in. Might be a little more forgiving outside where the ground may provide a little more resistance to movement.


Not sure if it'll help or not, but maybe try to call your Western dealer and see about getting a leveling kit put in the front of your truck? That should help with any ground clearance issues if you haven't put one on already. (We tend to have to use a leveling kit on all half tons that we put a Western HTS on)
Also, the outside air temp sensor is definitely able to be relocated- call the dealership you bought your truck from and make an appointment with their service department.


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## JK-Plow

I noticed a concern about overheating with the plow on. A company name Plow Flowmaster makes a wing to go on top of the snow plow to direct air into the engine while driving down a road. This way you don't have to angle the plow to give it air. I don't know how well it works.

If you go with a Boss, I would get the caster wheels for it. It makes it much easier to mount the plow by just pushing the plow into the mounts. The Western and SnowEx you can just drive in then push the hooks into the mounts. The Boss is not that easy to drive into. The Fisher you can also just drive into and push a lever to lock the blade. The Boss HTX does make a V blade, along with the straight blades. However Boss recommends that only a 7 foot blade be used on the F150. SnowEx states an 8 foot blade may be used on an F150. All the plows out there will require a notch in the front air deflector. Meyer makes a plow called the WingMan that goes into a two inch receiver hitch mounted to the front of your truck. The hitch can be used for other things in the off season. But I would have concerns about how well the set up would work for heavy duty plowing. In Europe, Meyer uses this mount on a number of their customers vehicles. The Meyer plow can be ordered and shipped directly to your home. All you would have to do is mount the front receiver and hook up the wiring. The plow comes assembled.


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