# strobe light ends



## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Ok Guys
Its time to start getting the new truck setup for plowing. Im getting ready to order a whellen 90 watt strobe supply. The cables that come with the kit, do they have the ends on them already or do I have to do that? If I do is it hard? What are the tricks? Any special tools needed?
Any other advise for me, I have done alot of wiring on cars and planes so I can handle this just looking for tips or things to look for.Any good places to buy a whellen kit?

Thanks Mike


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

When I ordered mine I used a place on Ebay. Fire and Safety Outfitters. They had the best price around. Very reliable, and very fast. They usually have 100 or so up for sale. Every dealer around me in NJ was charging double just for the kit. :angry: Just do a search for CSP690. That's Whelen's 90 watt 6 outlet unit. I think it was going for 250.00 with 6 tubes last I checked. The cables did have the connectors on them already. Nothing that you wouldn't already have in your tool box. 

The one thing that I am going to change is I am adding a painless wiring circuit boss to help clean things up a bit.


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

on mine it had the plastic plug off of it and you had to push the pre terminated pins into that. Made life easy since you could thread the wire into a smaller spot than if the plastic end was on there.


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## kemmer (Dec 5, 2003)

most kits come with everything you need.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Thanks Guys
I will check ebay today, I can't wait to get started. I ordered air bags yesterday for the rears. The Plow is going to get installed after labor day. I need to wire up the switchs for all of my strobes. Alot of work to do yet.

Regards Mike


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Bad Luck
I just got off the phone with Fire Saftey and Outfitters, and I bought a wheelen 90 watt 6 head unit. The amber bulbs are a extra $10.00 each and the kit comes with 4 bulbs. I still have 2 wheelen clear bulbs which I will also add to the power supply. We are on the way to getting it done.

Thanks Mike


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

flykelley said:


> Bad Luck
> I just got off the phone with Fire Saftey and Outfitters, and I bought a wheelen 90 watt 6 head unit. The amber bulbs are a extra $10.00 each and the kit comes with 4 bulbs. I still have 2 wheelen clear bulbs which I will also add to the power supply. We are on the way to getting it done.
> 
> Thanks Mike


Good stuff brotha!! I was thinking about air bags for the front. Which kit did you get, Firestone?

Where are you mounting your switches?

I am yet to wire everything the way I want too (nice and clean with a switch panel in my overhead console). Right now I just have some velcro stuck on the bottom of my dash with 3 switches attached to it. 1 for the rotator. 1 for the rear strobes. 1 for the front (which I never use). I have relays all over the joint and wires tucked everywhere. I was in a rush to install them as the snow was coming and I wanted to use my new lights before the end of the season!! Hopefully in the coming weeks I will get to clean it all up nice.

Good luck man! :salute:


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## kemmer (Dec 5, 2003)

heres where my switches are, im getting rid of the push switch because it was for pattern, but i got a different strobe pack with less patterns so im only using one


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Bad Luck said:


> Good stuff brotha!! I was thinking about air bags for the front. Which kit did you get, Firestone?
> 
> Where are you mounting your switches?
> 
> ...


Hi Bad Luck
Yes I got the Firestone bags. I want to install my switch's in the center consul or the overhead storage space by the dome lights. will post pictures when done.

Regards Mike


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

I like getting factory switches sometimes ment for other things and using them. The factory blinky light switch used in the plow prep may be a direct drop in your truck? Or the foglight switch assembly if you dont have em? Other ideas for ya.....


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

ratlover said:


> I like getting factory switches sometimes ment for other things and using them. The factory blinky light switch used in the plow prep may be a direct drop in your truck? Or the foglight switch assembly if you dont have em? Other ideas for ya.....


Good idea. I'll have to look into that. Clean and out of site is the name of the game when doing it right!!


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Bad Luck said:


> Good idea. I'll have to look into that. Clean and out of site is the name of the game when doing it right!!


Ok Guys the light kit showed up today. First part of next week I will start to install them. Of course when I get it all done I will post pictures. Wish me luck.

Regards Mike


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

ratlover said:


> I like getting factory switches sometimes ment for other things and using them. The factory blinky light switch used in the plow prep may be a direct drop in your truck? Or the foglight switch assembly if you dont have em? Other ideas for ya.....


Rat I love those idea's, I will have to see if I can do any of that. I do like the clean look of factory switch's

Regards Mike


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

Can't wait to see some pics. I'll have to dig up mine and we'll compare notes!!!!


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Bad Luck said:


> Can't wait to see some pics. I'll have to dig up mine and we'll compare notes!!!!


Hi Guys
I took a look at switch's at work last night, and it appear's they will not work for this. The switch's are molded either as a single switch or a double switch. The plug is a single plug with about 6 pins. I don't know what the pins functions are. They also appear to but to small to handle 15 amps. It now appears that I will have a plate made up the size of either the overhead storage bin or the bin in the center consul. I will then have it powder coated to match the color of the inside of the truck. Will post some pictures when I start to get it set up. Wish me luck.

Regards Mike


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

flykelley said:


> Hi Guys
> I took a look at switch's at work last night, and it appear's they will not work for this. The switch's are molded either as a single switch or a double switch. The plug is a single plug with about 6 pins. I don't know what the pins functions are. They also appear to but to small to handle 15 amps. It now appears that I will have a plate made up the size of either the overhead storage bin or the bin in the center consul. I will then have it powder coated to match the color of the inside of the truck. Will post some pictures when I start to get it set up. Wish me luck.
> 
> Regards Mike


Mike - Why would you need a switch to handle 15 amps? Aren't you using relays to turn on the power supply?


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## kemmer (Dec 5, 2003)

This is very stupid, but what does a relay actually do?


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Bad Luck said:


> Mike - Why would you need a switch to handle 15 amps? Aren't you using relays to turn on the power supply?


Bad Luck
This is the first strobe install that I have done,on my old truck the guy just ran a power feed from the factory switch on the dash and it work ok. I just thought that was the way to do it.

If there is a better way such as using a relay please share it with me, such as which type relay, where to buy them, model and size, and where in the circuit does it need to be. In front of the switch I'm guessing. How about fusing size and placement? I'm all for doing things the right way.

Thanks Mike


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

Mike,

Check this thread out. I wired mine very similar to this, without the LED's

http://plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=23221

Basically, you run a fused power wire from your battery to the relay Pin 30. 
Pin 86 on the relay connects to a ground source, chassis or battery. 
Pin 87 goes to your Strobe power supply. 
Pin 85 goes to a switch inside your truck. I think my switches pull like 1 or 2 amps.

Each switch will get a keyed, or non keys 12v+ (depending on if you want to be able to run your lights with the truck off or not) and a ground.

This setup will use the switch to turn on the relay which will turn on your power supply.

The relays can be had at radio shack or pep boys.

Let me know if you need anymore info.

This is the original post from Mychevytruck.com where the guy has some pics of his install, check this out too:

http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines...id-62601-s-where_have_u_mounted_your_switches


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

flykelley said:


> Hi Guys
> I took a look at switch's at work last night, and it appear's they will not work for this. The switch's are molded either as a single switch or a double switch. The plug is a single plug with about 6 pins. I don't know what the pins functions are. They also appear to but to small to handle 15 amps. It now appears that I will have a plate made up the size of either the overhead storage bin or the bin in the center consul. I will then have it powder coated to match the color of the inside of the truck. Will post some pictures when I start to get it set up. Wish me luck.
> 
> Regards Mike


Depending on the switch you are correct it wont handle the juice. You may also have to pop it apart and do some tweaking or at least stick an ohm meter on it to see what pin does what. You can buy the new plug that has wires dangling off it most times from chevy also. Gotta use a relay. Some of the switches are momentary so you would need a latching relay. It can get a bit more complicated depending what switch your canabalizing........


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

snowyleaflandscaping said:


> This is very stupid, but what does a relay actually do?


The relay isolates your lighting system and aloows you to draw the most power from your power source without roasting a switch or torching your truck. They are cheap, and easily replaceable.


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## rcpd34 (Jan 16, 2004)

*Strobe system*

Hey guys I have an awesome setup for sale. Here is a pic. Includes everything you need: 6/90 power suppply 4 tubes/cables and a triple rocker switch. Brand new. I use these on all my trucks and have never had a failure.









$189 + s&h. E-mail me direct at [email protected] if interested.


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

Bad Luck said:


> The relay isolates your lighting system and aloows you to draw the most power from your power source without roasting a switch or torching your truck. They are cheap, and easily replaceable.


Also think of em as switches that get operated by electricity as apposed to a regular switch. It can take power or a ground either steady on or a pulse and change it into power or ground. You can use a smaller voltage to "trigger" the relay and no real power(amperage) gets drawn through the "trigger" wire. Meaning you could run a trigger wire from any electrical component and use to to turn on or off any other electronic compenent without worry of sucking juice through the componenet and burning it up. The "trigger" wire can be very thin gauge wire. You can thus stick a relay close to the power sorce and what its operating and not have all that draw running through your cab and through the switch ect and back to the gadget you are running. Make sense?


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## Playboy (Sep 8, 2004)

rcpd34 said:


> Hey guys I have an awesome setup for sale. Here is a pic. Includes everything you need: 6/90 power suppply 4 tubes/cables and a triple rocker switch. Brand new. I use these on all my trucks and have never had a failure.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


By "tubes" do you mean stobes? Is this one of those hidaway set-ups.


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

ratlover said:


> Also think of em as switches that get operated by electricity as apposed to a regular switch. It can take power or a ground either steady on or a pulse and change it into power or ground. You can use a smaller voltage to "trigger" the relay and no real power(amperage) gets drawn through the "trigger" wire. Meaning you could run a trigger wire from any electrical component and use to to turn on or off any other electronic compenent without worry of sucking juice through the componenet and burning it up. The "trigger" wire can be very thin gauge wire. You can thus stick a relay close to the power sorce and what its operating and not have all that draw running through your cab and through the switch ect and back to the gadget you are running. Make sense?


Took the words right out of my mouth.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Bad Luck said:


> Mike,
> 
> Check this thread out. I wired mine very similar to this, without the LED's
> 
> ...


Bad Luck
First Thanks for all of the info. I have been to Radio Shack and got a relay, and the plugs. Now do I need a relay for every switch? I only bought one but I will have three switch's so I think I need 3 relays. Next do you mount the relays close to the battery on the firewall or do you mount them inside the cab? The feed from the battery to the relay needs to be a heavy gage wire or can I run like a 16 awg? 
I have made up a metal plate which I cut to fit the opening in the small overhead console, I have a guy at work who owns a powder coating company and he is going to powder coat the plate for me. While the plate is off for powder coating I am going to start to run all of the wiring, so when the plate is done all I have to do is mount the switch's and I will be good to go.


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

flykelley said:


> Bad Luck
> First Thanks for all of the info. I have been to Radio Shack and got a relay, and the plugs. Now do I need a relay for every switch? I only bought one but I will have three switch's so I think I need 3 relays. Next do you mount the relays close to the battery on the firewall or do you mount them inside the cab? The feed from the battery to the relay needs to be a heavy gage wire or can I run like a 16 awg?
> I have made up a metal plate which I cut to fit the opening in the small overhead console, I have a guy at work who owns a powder coating company and he is going to powder coat the plate for me. While the plate is off for powder coating I am going to start to run all of the wiring, so when the plate is done all I have to do is mount the switch's and I will be good to go.


 - Not a problem at all. What would your third switch be for? For each switch that turns on a light or group of lights you need a relay. Your pattern switch will not need one. 
- I mounted my relays with HD velcro on the inner fender. Try to keep them as close to the battery as possible, not in the cab, this will keep your wires shorter. 
- As far as wire gauge, I think I used 10 gauge from the relay to the battery. And 18 ga. from the switches to the relay. 
- Make sure you use the same gauge wire for both the + and - side of the relay and power supply, and from the relay to the power supply. Also put a fuse on each + side of each relay.

Does the power supply packaging say how many amps it draws?

Where are you mounting your Strobe Power Supply?


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

Strobes dont suck much juice as was said read the package and adjust acordingly to how much the relay will handle(if you want to add more components on the circut for instance). A typical relay will take 20-30 amps. Yes heavy gauge going to and from the relay and you can run lite gauge on the gound and trigger portion of the relay(the coil). For multipul relays most times you can feed them off of the same wire going in and the grounds can gernerally be hooked together.

Not sure what you need multipul relays for and switches?

www.the12volt.com is a good place with basic stuff.

Relays dont care what way the current flows through em. Aslo some relays are NC(normaly closed) or NO(normally open) and some have posts for both.

Edit: I'd generally just stick one fuse on the power as close to the battery as possible. You could stick a fuse on the switching means circut if you wanted. That would guard only against the wire between the relay and the switch and the switch and the power source from somwere shorting out and frying(fuse would have to be before the area of the short).


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

ok......what exactly are you wiring up.....that may help us come up with a diagram for ya


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

ratlover said:


> ok......what exactly are you wiring up.....that may help us come up with a diagram for ya


Tyring to come up with one now. He's got a CSP-690 Whelen Strobe pack with 6 bulbs. The pack allows for 2x4 switching. Meaning he can have on just 4 bulbs, or 2, or all six. Check out Whelen's website they have installation instructions for that unit.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

ratlover said:


> ok......what exactly are you wiring up.....that may help us come up with a diagram for ya


Hi Ratlover
I'm wiring up a switch for a whellen power pack for 6 strobe heads on one switch. Switch number 2 is going to run my strobes on my salt spreader. Switch number 3 is going to run my work lights on the back of the salt spreader. All of these are going to run up to the switch's in my overhead console. My roof strobes are going to be powered by the factory switch. Is it alright to power the relays off of the second battery, or should they be fed by the primary battery? I want to do this the right way and look nice. I know I am asking alot of questions but I do appreciate the help.

Regards Mike


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

You can run em off either battery.

Do you want to be able to turn on the work lights any time you want and also when you throw it in revers? You could have it come on when you turn on your cargo light or in reverse, to make it so it dosnt turn on with either of these would require a switch. 

You will want a relay for each strobe

Leme know how you want the work lights and I will try to come up with a digram for ya or a walk through.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

ratlover said:


> You can run em off either battery.
> 
> Do you want to be able to turn on the work lights any time you want and also when you throw it in revers? You could have it come on when you turn on your cargo light or in reverse, to make it so it dosnt turn on with either of these would require a switch.
> 
> ...


Hi Ratlover,
Thanks for the help, I would like the work lights to come on when I put the truck in reverse. Also is it is possible to have them turn on when you put it in reverse and also on a switch to keep on all of the time? Does any of this make any sense?

Thanks Mike


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

Yes it is possible to have it come on when ever you put the truck in revers or when you turn on another switch. Like I said you could tie it into your factory cargo lamp switch so the lights would come on when you put the truck into reverse or when you turned on the cargo lamp.....but then you could never have it NOT come one if you didnt want em to turn on. You could wire in a 3 position switch. position 1 work lights never come on, position 2 work lights always on, position 3 work lights only on when you are in reverse. Is the latter more how you want it to work?


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## PremierLand (Jun 11, 2004)

dang ratlover how did you learn all of this stuff. That is sweet how you know this stuff.

anyway, mike good luck, your truck should look killer with those strobes and plow hangin off the front!
Red Chevy's = $$$
LOL


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

ratlover said:


> Yes it is possible to have it come on when ever you put the truck in revers or when you turn on another switch. Like I said you could tie it into your factory cargo lamp switch so the lights would come on when you put the truck into reverse or when you turned on the cargo lamp.....but then you could never have it NOT come one if you didnt want em to turn on. You could wire in a 3 position switch. position 1 work lights never come on, position 2 work lights always on, position 3 work lights only on when you are in reverse. Is the latter more how you want it to work?


Tes ratlover the last one would be the the way I would like to wire it.

Thanks Mike


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

PremierLand said:


> dang ratlover how did you learn all of this stuff. That is sweet how you know this stuff.
> 
> LOL


I've just screwed up ALOT of stuff! You get it right eventually witch is why I keep trying 

Witch brings me to Mike.....now onto your wiring! gime a sec.....and I take no responibility if your horn starts blowing when you turn on the radio or turning right rolls down your windows


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

ok......this aught to get you started.....


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

Stick the fuse close to the battery. Pick it out for just over what ever amperage the compenent will draw. I have all my relays ect in my tool box in my bed. Under the hood would work too. Seal everything good, use either self sealing heat shrink conectors(the good ones with the glue stuff inside) or good heat shrink tubing(again the good stuff with the glue, radio shack 99c stuff is for internal connections.) or the sealing paste, or a good sealing tape(NOT JUST ELECTICAL TAPE!!!!!) Try to also limit connections that will be in the elements. The 12v for the switch can either be a keyed source(if you dont want to be able to turn em on without the truck on) or a constant. For finding power for the reverse lights......I dont know of a good place or what colotr the wire is. You may be able to latch on in the fuse box but dont EVER stick wire in and then the fuse....or dont use anything thats fatter than a fues that you have to cram in there. Fuses losening can cause some VERY WACKY PROBLEMS and jamming stuff in the fuse pannle can acellerate or cause fuses to lose a bit of continuity. The switch I described using has 4 prongs. You can tie the 2 outs together. Test the switch with a ohm meter or a light bulb and some power before you wire it up so you are sure it will function like you think it will.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

ratlover said:


> Stick the fuse close to the battery. Pick it out for just over what ever amperage the compenent will draw. I have all my relays ect in my tool box in my bed. Under the hood would work too. Seal everything good, use either self sealing heat shrink conectors(the good ones with the glue stuff inside) or good heat shrink tubing(again the good stuff with the glue, radio shack 99c stuff is for internal connections.) or the sealing paste, or a good sealing tape(NOT JUST ELECTICAL TAPE!!!!!) Try to also limit connections that will be in the elements. The 12v for the switch can either be a keyed source(if you dont want to be able to turn em on without the truck on) or a constant. For finding power for the reverse lights......I dont know of a good place or what colotr the wire is. You may be able to latch on in the fuse box but dont EVER stick wire in and then the fuse....or dont use anything thats fatter than a fues that you have to cram in there. Fuses losening can cause some VERY WACKY PROBLEMS and jamming stuff in the fuse pannle can acellerate or cause fuses to lose a bit of continuity. The switch I described using has 4 prongs. You can tie the 2 outs together. Test the switch with a ohm meter or a light bulb and some power before you wire it up so you are sure it will function like you think it will.


Thanks again Ratlover, I will start this on sunday and will post how its going.

Regards Mike


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## Frozen001 (Oct 20, 2004)

ratlover said:


> ok......this aught to get you started.....


ratlover you diagram is good, but he could get a SPDT switch with a center off. (If that is what you mean by a three position then fine). The switch will have three terminals on them the center is usually the common point between the other two. (i.e. when the switch is in position ON#1 the power will go from terminal 1 to 2 and when the switch is position ON#2 the power will go from 3 to 2)


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## Playboy (Sep 8, 2004)

Rat Lover you have heavy gauge wire going into the relay but thin wire grounding it.... Your ground wire should always be as thick as the positive wire.


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

The only thing the ground does is ground for the coil. There is no high amperage going through the coil(or shouldnt be)

Yes, thats what I ment by 3 position switch.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

ratlover said:


> The only thing the ground does is ground for the coil. There is no high amperage going through the coil(or shouldnt be)
> 
> Yes, thats what I ment by 3 position switch.


Hi Guys
I have started the install today, I have the tailight strobes in, the headlight are drilled also. I am just starting to install the power supply. The switch plate is out at the powder coater, should be done this week. I'm about to start wiring the power supply and do a test run. Again thanks for all of the help.

Regards Mike


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Ok Guys
I now have it all screwed up. Here is what I did. I am using a whelen csp 690 power supply. I wired power from the battery on a fused 30 amp leg to the red power supply wire, grounded the black wire from the csp690 to the cab bolt. I then power a 15 amp wire with a switch in it to the yellow and blue on the next plug. Powered it up and nothing happened. Crap now what did I do wrong? The directions from whelen are not alot of help. I even went to there web site and look up there direction and they didn't help. It must be something simple, Maybe a crossed wire? :yow!: This is driving me nuts, why can't they make directions that say red wire to power, black to ground, blue and green wire tie together and feed with 15 amp fused leg. That I can understand. Sorry for ranting, its been three hours since I started and then it didn't work. Maybe tomorrow it will make sense.

Thanks Mike


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## Frozen001 (Oct 20, 2004)

I checked out the install guide located here . According the diagram on page 3, you should have switched +12v to the blue and green wires (separately if you wand to turn the lamps off independently, i.e. two switches one to the blue for lamps 1 & 2 and one to the green for the remaining lamps). The yellow wire should have a momentary "on" switch, which is used to change the pattern . I can assume if you just leave this disconnected it should work, but you cannot change the flash pattern.

It sounds like you are close, just disconnect the yellow wire and try it again.

Hope this makes since.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Hey Frozen & Ratlover
I got it working guys.  Just a side note on a strobe install.The main power source and GROUND needs to come from the battery. I had the ground hooked up first to the cab floor, then moved it to the frame rail under the cab but it still didn't work. I called Whelen tech support again and told them how I wired it. They told me the ground also needed to go all the way to the battery along with the main power feed because of the large amp draw. 
I thought this was nuts but did it anyway and it works. I still do not understand why a ground to the frame would not work. Well now that I have power to the power supply I can get the headlights drilled and strobe tubes installed. Still waiting on the switch bracket at the powder coater. Again guys you have been a big help, I couldn't have done it with your help. I will post pictures when I am all done.

Regards Mike


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

flykelley said:


> Hey Frozen & Ratlover
> I got it working guys.  Just a side note on a strobe install.The main power source and GROUND needs to come from the battery. I had the ground hooked up first to the cab floor, then moved it to the frame rail under the cab but it still didn't work. I called Whelen tech support again and told them how I wired it. They told me the ground also needed to go all the way to the battery along with the main power feed because of the large amp draw.
> I thought this was nuts but did it anyway and it works. I still do not understand why a ground to the frame would not work. Well now that I have power to the power supply I can get the headlights drilled and strobe tubes installed. Still waiting on the switch bracket at the powder coater. Again guys you have been a big help, I couldn't have done it with your help. I will post pictures when I am all done.
> 
> Regards Mike












Good deal Mike. Friggers are pretty bright once you get them going. Keep us posted.


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## BigBurban (Sep 13, 2005)

How do you mount the bulbs with these kits? Drill out the headlight housing and taillamp housings? How does it effect your headlight beam pattern? What size hole?


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

BigBurban said:


> How do you mount the bulbs with these kits? Drill out the headlight housing and taillamp housings? How does it effect your headlight beam pattern? What size hole?


Hi Big Burban
You need to drill a 1 inch hole. Some Strobe heads are screw in, held in place with two small screws, and others just puch in. I have only used the screw in type so I do not know how well the push in type stays in place.
The strobe head should have no effect on your headlight pattern. Do a serch for 2005 Chevy strobe install, I have posted pictures in that thread, also do a serch by my name to see all the threads that I have posted to. I have posted pictures of teh headlight and taillights all drilled out. If you can't find them let me know and I wil do some digging.

Good Luck Mike


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Try a serch for this thread. 05 chevy strobe install is done.

Mike


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## BigBurban (Sep 13, 2005)

Found em...thanks for the help! I would like to get them to fit in my back up light but it sounds like that my not work. Now i just need to find that darn money tree again payup


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

BigBurban said:


> Found em...thanks for the help! I would like to get them to fit in my back up light but it sounds like that my not work. Now i just need to find that darn money tree again payup


BB they will not fit in the backup lights of a new Chevy. They did fit in my 2001 Chevy, so I drilled the 05 backup light and the bulb hits the backup light. Not good.

Mike


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## ratlover (May 5, 2003)

Hey big burban, JMO but for snow removal I wouldnt go with just strobes. I'd go with a single or dual halogen rotator if it were to be on the cheap. JMO

Strobes are alright but in a heavy snow they can bounce off the snow and drive you nuts  A single rotator up high gives plenty of warning, dosnt really reflect, and cuts through snow really well. JMO

Hide away strobes do look trick though


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## BigBurban (Sep 13, 2005)

My plan is to do both. I run sweep for the Lake Superior Pro Rally so that is what the strobes would be mainly for. Thats why i was wondering if it changes how the headlight beam reflects in the housing.


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