# Building a plow Jeep...



## emminz (Feb 9, 2010)

I'm looking at the possibility of building a Jeep for plowing residential driveways. A friend of mine is selling his off road project jeep that never got finished. I figured I'd throw out the stats to see if this would make a good plow truck. Since it's stripped down to the frame, it would be a good time to add braces and such if needed. Here's what I'm starting with:
Jeep YJ - not sure of the year
Chevy 350 TBI
TH400 trans
NP203/NP205 dual transfer cases - will probably sell the dual and put in a single since I don't need all that reduction
Dana 44's front and rear
Frame converted to use Wagneer springs
Does this sound like a good setup?
While I have the chance, what bracing should I do to the frame?
There is also a set of Detroit lockers. Should I install them? I've heard that driving automatic lockers in the snow can be a handful.
Tires: I was thinking big mudders, but I've hear that narrow AT's is the way to go.
What plow should I look for (used)?

Thanks for any insight.

Scott


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## green frog (Jan 2, 2007)

A locker in the rear would be ok. I put frame stiffeners on my XJ because you are plowing straight on. I have run mudders and at's. The widest at's I ran that worked were 265/75/16 but I left my 33"s on this year because the jeep is a back up. Mudders dont stop in the snow well.


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## green frog (Jan 2, 2007)

Forgot about the plow. If you could find a western lsx it would be perfect. I had one and traded it when I got my F250's big mistake. They are pretty heavy duty and 7'2" wide and 25" tall. The only thing is they dont make it anymore.


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## emminz (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks for the help.


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## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Hi Scott
I bought a Jeep for driveways and a back up truck this fall. I have a Blizzard 680 LT on it. Its hard finding a mount for a YJ, so if you do buy a used plow make sure it has a mount for a YJ. I had to have one fab up for me. Next I would add dual battery's for the extra juice, and a high output alt. Make sure you get a hard top, its alot warmer and you can see a whole lot more than a soft top. Next is if your yj is a 92 or before is to change the blower motor, before 92 they were very weak at best. The replacement is a blower motor out of a blazer, just double check the shaft length against the old one some are about 1/2 inch too long. Narrow tires are the way to go for plowing. You may want to put a 1-2 inch body lift or change the springs to get more clearance.

Good Luck Mike


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## hobbyjeep (Dec 11, 2003)

Over the years, Ive plowed with CJ5/7 (both 4 and 6 cyl), YJs and S-10s. Unless you like feeding the beast (5.7L), suggest you go to the 4.3L. Runs much cooler and less fuel... and you will never need the power of of a 5.7L plowing snow. Even if it's a summer driver, 5.7L sounds cool, but a waste of power. I currenlty have a 4.3L ZR-2 regular cab, short box pick up with a Fisher plow... have never run out of engine plowing with the truck


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## cj7plowing (Feb 7, 2009)

that is a great setup. I would make sure you get a auto column with the shifter and B&M makes the shift linkage to go from the end of the column to the trans. gonna need a good trans cooler and flexlite fan on a good aluminum radiator as the grill is small and doesnt allow alot of air. Dual batteries and you are good to go.


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## emminz (Feb 9, 2010)

Lots of great info. The engine is going to stay for now. The whole package is cheap and it runs. It did sound overkill to me too, but for now it will work. I do need to find a top and doors. I'll not sure yet how high the jeep will sit. The frame is set up for Wagoneer springs. I'm told it's about 2" higher than stock. Anyone know if that's right?

How about the frame. While it's in the tub is off, are there any weak spots that I should strengthen while I have complete access?


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## ppandr (Dec 16, 2004)

What is the general condition of the frame...especially rear shackle and shock tower locations. These are the first locations to rust out. I personally would plate these with 1/8 steel and thoughly epoxy paint the frame so as to extend the life of your soon to be plow rig. Check my sig...I've got two YJ's and only a few minutes from you.


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## emminz (Feb 9, 2010)

The frame is in great shape. It was welded down to a fab table, front and rear cross members cut out, heavier ones welded in, shackle reversal done on the front. shackle brackets cut off and tubes welded into the frame, sandblasted and primed. There are no shock towers on yet. I think the plan was to set those once the ride height and travel were determined. This was being build at a trail jeep.


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## plowjeep420 (Nov 6, 2008)

had lots a fun this winter, snow is falling as I type. Did a LED tail light conversion last summer, roof light is epoxy steel plate with magnets. Plow is 7', lift is 4". Frame has been stiffened up in front, after the frame cracked on both sides. feels stronger than my other jeeps. The rear of this frame is rotten, rotten, rotten, and may get more band-aids back there. Hope to find a frame and rebuild in the summer sometime. But for now its a work in progress.


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## 86 CJ (Jan 11, 2010)

Looks Awesome. Mine is a . 7'meyers, 6" lift, 35's and a 258 with Mc2100 carb that is almost v8 power with tons of low torque wesport Only problems i had this year was pushing the 3' storm we had here once the roads got snow packed....Sucked Other then that it's a beast... You can see a pic of it in other posts on here


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## cj7plowing (Feb 7, 2009)

plowjeep which tires do you have on their?


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## plowjeep420 (Nov 6, 2008)

*Tires*

Not sure of size, but they are Big O brand "Bigfoot" studded' on 16" rims. I was told that they are no longer available in that size. I still need a spare!


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