# Steel Cutting edges for Snow Pushers



## Racer28s (Jul 28, 2008)

Does anyone use a steel cutting edge on their snow pusher, our rubber edge leaves about a half inch of snow everytime. Not a very clean job.


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## Lazer Man (Nov 17, 2000)

Is the rubber edge ajusted right. We generaly put a 1/2 inch board under the runners on each side loosen all the edge bolts tap rubber edge down until edge is firmly touching the ground. tighten all bolts back up scrapes fine. If you put a steel edge on you wouldnt have any give if you hit something. Pushers that do have steel edges have some sort of trip edge or something similar.

Bob


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## cold_and_tired (Dec 18, 2008)

I'm considering putting one on mine. I'm tired of the performance of the rubber.

I'm the one typically running the pusher and I know all of my lots really well. One thing that might give me a little piece of mind is putting the rubber back on over the steel edge just to give it some kind of impact resistance, even if it's minimal.

A lot of the poly edge manufacturers say that you can replace a rubber edge with one of theirs. I'm not quite ready to spend $600 on an edge that might break if it hits something. I figured I would spend $80 on a piece of steel and if I find myself hitting a lot of objects, I could take it off and use it on my truck.


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## RLM (Jan 12, 2006)

I haven't tried this but what if you mounted the steel to the rubber ? Has anyone tried it ? There is no doubt the steel is better I have one artic & 2 protec (rubber edges). The artic hands down scrapes better, but I think it is a combination of the steel edges, the floating sections, etc. If the lots are pretreated the protecs do fine again our eges are adjusted like poster mentioned above though.


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## sk187 (Dec 7, 2006)

cold_and_tired;1212688 said:


> I'm considering putting one on mine. I'm tired of the performance of the rubber.
> 
> I'm the one typically running the pusher and I know all of my lots really well. One thing that might give me a little piece of mind is putting the rubber back on over the steel edge just to give it some kind of impact resistance, even if it's minimal.
> 
> A lot of the poly edge manufacturers say that you can replace a rubber edge with one of theirs. I'm not quite ready to spend $600 on an edge that might break if it hits something. I figured I would spend $80 on a piece of steel and if I find myself hitting a lot of objects, I could take it off and use it on my truck.


We have 2 16' boxes and a skid steer blade made of poly, they dont break.

The downside is they really do not clean as good as advertised.

Much better then rubber and an easy replacement but they still do no cut like steel.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

cold_and_tired;1212688 said:


> I'm considering putting one on mine. I'm tired of the performance of the rubber.
> 
> I'm the one typically running the pusher and I know all of my lots really well.
> QUOTE]
> ...


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## ppandr (Dec 16, 2004)

Rubber edges work best in virgin snow. I make it a point to not allow my guys to drive/push with our trucks into the areas I use the pusher for two simple reasons. One, the rubber edge will not scrape well in packed snow obviously. Two, they are wasting my time not being efficient.
The key to a rubber edge is proper alignment as above. After 2-3 events they need to be adjusted. Most times I can see the lines in the lot as I pass over them.
I run my pusher excusively in the same lots for the last 5-7 years. I know every bump, manhole, catch basin, and curb. I still manage to hit things when Im half aseep....Thumbs Up


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## cold_and_tired (Dec 18, 2008)

ppandr;1213236 said:


> Rubber edges work best in virgin snow. I make it a point to not allow my guys to drive/push with our trucks into the areas I use the pusher for two simple reasons. One, the rubber edge will not scrape well in packed snow obviously. Two, they are wasting my time not being efficient.
> The key to a rubber edge is proper alignment as above. After 2-3 events they need to be adjusted. Most times I can see the lines in the lot as I pass over them.
> I run my pusher excusively in the same lots for the last 5-7 years. I know every bump, manhole, catch basin, and curb. I still manage to hit things when Im half aseep....Thumbs Up


That's the problem, I very rarely have virgin snow to push.

Two HOA's...cars in and out 24/7

One commercial site that is open from 5:00 am - 9:00 pm...cars in and out all the time

Churches. You would think they would be virgin snow except on Sunday's but there are kids that feel the need to do donuts in there until I show up.

Post Office...line haul trucks in and out at all hours of the night.

If there is a chance that I do get to push fresh snow, the rubber edge does an excellent job. It's the other 95% of the time that I have issues.

And yes, I do have the fear of putting a newish operator in the machine with a hard edge on the pusher. I'm going to try it myself first just to see of it's worth the risk.


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## Lazer Man (Nov 17, 2000)

ppandr has got it right the rubber works best on virgin snow. But I'm gonna say this even steel isn't gonna cut through packed snow like would be on a driven on parking lot as I'm assuming thats what your talking about. Get the snow down as close as possible and salt will do the rest. And also if you would be applying down pressur all the time you would be wearing through those edges plus pusher feet pretty quick.

Bob


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## unclebuck (Jan 8, 2011)

*rubber or steel edge ?*

we use a 18 ft box in mall lots , when the ground is warmer the rubber works great sweeping and sliding the snow off but when we get snow and a hard drop in temp the rubber was useless , i was out in the cold bolting on steel a steel edge .
no more rubber for me
we use plain old steel flat bar . not cutting edge hard steel. it wears fast but is very forgiving . cutting edge steel is to hard and brittle for long boxes with fixed edges

i would like to try the arctic box with the lifting edges that would seem to be the best idea:


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## dayexco (Oct 30, 2003)

we built our pusher, it's 13'6" wide...that way we can get it in our shop w/a 14' door. we set ours up with JRB coupler blank for the loader, and the cutting edge is from a road grader. we just have to cut 6" off one edge. these edges work great, last a long time, and are pretty inexpensive. "should" you hit a manhole cover, etc...worst thing we've had happen is the bolts break, so we keep a ratchet, extra bolts along with us. acts kind of like a shear pin!


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