# Clocking air shocks for the TJ



## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

I decided to go the air shock route with my TJ, so I ordered the Monroe 763. This is almost a bolt in, except for the fact that the air fitting points directly at the shock tower. Looking at the shock, it seemed that the only thing keeping the upper half from rotating was the tough rubber dust boot. I cut the steel band holding it, and after breaking it loose and getting a little oil underneath, it rotated easily.










Now I had to get the boot to stay in place. I slipped the steel band back on, so the that the crimped are would create a pressure point, and put a stainless clamp around it. If this doesn't hold, I may try the clamp alone, or weld a small strap on the band.










This is the finished install:










There is 4 inches clearance to the tire (30X9.50), but a word of caution-look at the air fittings where the O ring seats before you install it. One of mine was boogered up, or they missed a machining step during manufacturing, and it would only hold 40psi before it started whistling. Quality control missed this one, and since it is now modified, I own it,

Anyone else try this?


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## redoak (Jan 28, 2009)

I didn't want to risk compromising the integrity of the air bladderby trying to do wahat you did when I put the same shocks on the front of my '97 TJ, so I used right angle adapter on my cordless drill to drill a hole in the shock tower in line with the air fitting on the shock. I slipped a piece of rubber tubing over the air line where it passes through the hole to prevent chafing.

Redoak


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

I thought about that, but you need a pretty big hole to get room for cap to screw on, and depending on how much the rubber bushing at the top moves, I didn't want the line or fitting to fail. Given the choice, I decided to take a chance on trashing $60 shocks versus having to weld up a cracked shock tower or a 10 degree repair in the garage. If it doesn't hold, I will be cutting/drilling my shock tower.

If have any pics of your mount - post 'em! I'm sure others would like to see all the options. If you have any problems, let us know.


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

I like your solution, hear is mine. But I have Gabriel shocks

Shock and cutout 









Cut out and brace welded in.









With the shock









I think I made the hole to big, I may make a smaller brace. (in my spare time)


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

*Update*

Update:

I got my boogered up air fitting to seal-finally. Got it up to 50psi, and I found out that the dust boot IS an intergal part of the seal (unless clocking it mis-alighned something). The hose clamps will not clamp tight enough to seal. Next up-trying a muffler clamp to hold the steel band. If that doesn't work, I may get some one to weld two l brackets to the band and cinch it down with a bolt and a nylock. Stay tuned.....


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## redoak (Jan 28, 2009)

I drilled a 5/16" diameter hole (I think) and attached the air line to the shock before I mounted the rod to the shock tower. I don't think that a hole that size will compromise the strength of the shock tower.


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

You will be fine on the strength of the shock tower. Most of the strength comes from the curled lip.

Also there is a hole on the other side of the shock a Little further down, to bad its too far down to use.

The rubber on the top of the shock mount will allow the shock to move a little, You may want to make the hole a Little bigger for some clearance for the air supply. As long as you dont get too close to the curled edge you wont compromise the strength of the shock tower


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

*Update 2*

Okay-so I got some 2.5" exhaust clamps and added those over the steel band.










I rotated the clamp a little and trimmed off the excess threads.










It held to 90psi, no leaks, and is holding steady. This is not the most elegant solution, but its working so far. I still have 3" tire clearance at full lock and full extension.

Next, I will order these-made for tubos and high pressure. These are should seal much better, and can be rotated for maximum clearance.










More to come....


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## redoak (Jan 28, 2009)

It's great to see someone thinking outside the box and sticking with it until a solution is found. Plowing this winter will be the real test.

Redoak


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

Looking back through the Monroe catalog, it looks like MA739 mightbe a good alternate choice. It has the same S4 stud mount top and bottom, so all you would have to do is fabricate a adapter plate, which would be a flat piece of strip stock with three holes in it, which would be fairly easy to make. 

Anyone want to try it?


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

UPDATE: Still holdin air......


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## Waterboss (Sep 27, 2007)

MaxW any pics of that new plow of yours? I picked up a baby Western (Suburbanite) for my Rubi. Hope to post some pics of mine soon once I'm done with a few upgrade mods I'm making for it.


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

No pics of the plow yet-my install got pushed back to Thursday. Deer season is like a national holiday in Michigan. Schools close, Ford is closed, and everyone is on vacation. Will post pics of the install when I get it.


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## ZZR (Oct 26, 2009)

Max Wedge....You the same guy from STN? Username looked familiar...


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

ZZR;879402 said:


> Max Wedge....You the same guy from STN? Username looked familiar...


Yup, the same one. This is the other place I go...shhh.


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## ZZR (Oct 26, 2009)

Don't worry I won't let these guys know what you're really like 

What kind of onboard compressor setup do you have for the air shocks? 

I'll have to post some pic's of my Jeep when I get it all setup with the plow...


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## Max Wedge (Jul 22, 2009)

No on board air. Just a shraeder valve mounted in the front bumper-to-grille cover, and a little compresser in the garage.

One day I will have on board air.

Thanks for keeping my secret.


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