# '93 Toyota, Xcab, 22RE engine



## lawlopez

I have a 1993 Toyota 4x4 Xtra cab
with 5 speed, and a 22RE engine which
is dead.

It came with a tiny fisher plow with a poly
blade.

I'm getting a rebuilt engine from a know
good rebuilder.

I'm wondering if I should get one of
those high performance engines for
Toyota motor homes.

The has had it's chaisses oiled since
it was purchased.

I have a JD950 and blade as a primary snow mover.


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## Chainlink

the 22re is a great little engine but known as Im sure you know low on power.
I have had several Toyotas over the years and love them dearly. To make a choice on what egine best suits you, think first on what your going to need it for ie: Daily Driver, commuter, work horse, and so on. When you decide that then its easy, there are a couple of big name rebuilders for Toyota engines. They can build them for high horse power or low end grunt(I know some will snicker to the idea the little 4 banger could have grunt  but we are talking a small truck) There are tons of yota specific sites that have tons of info on this subject. they even build them in the middle of the road, good comprimise if you want to retain reliability, although from what I understand the torque 22re's are just as reliable due to the fact the are low rpms. High horse power ones tend to need to be rebuilt sooner. But for my money I would go in the middle you jump horses up to about 130 140 range up from stock 110 and torque ummmmmm... well I cant remember torques numbers but I know its better  (I would have to look it up)

any way thats my .02


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## lawlopez

Chainlink, thanks, now you have me thinking!

Probably a good thing.

I'l probably go with a stock rebuild but now I have
a somewhat bigger universe to think about.

I had forgotten that increased HP translates
into decreased life.

it's too bad that increased HP also seems to translate
into increased cost.

I wasn't able to find an old engine which is why
I'm going after a rebuilt one.


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## Chainlink

http://www.lcengineering.com/ heres another thing to think about, get a mild boost with a cam and there is a 20r head used in 22r set ups , boost in compression I should look and see if they convert the 20r head to EFI.
But if you really want to keep it mild the typical engine enhancements help out the 22r and 22re cams headers bigger injecters. I would really look into a going through a credible engine builder, heres a couple of the more known builders.

http://www.lcengineering.com/

http://www.doaracingengines.com/4cyl.html


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## streetsurfin'

I want to jump in here if you guys don't mind. I owned an 86 with the turbo and kick myself quite often for selling it. Chainlink. do you know much about them? Are these engines sought after because of any heavier duty parts in them. I think it was the following year, maybe two, that they introduced the 6 cyl. in the p/u. As a result I don't know if the turbo had much success. I want to start looking for a used Toyota for next summers lawn work, then eventually plowing, and hope I can find another turbocharged one. I'll check the links for the builders too. Thanks!


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## lawlopez

Oh boy, that's too much money for me.
It is very tempting.

I'll see if I can work myself up to it.

It's about twice what I'd have to pay for
one I'm looking for.

-----

Oh boy, I let a 1986 turbo with a rusted out frame but good engine go as a trade in to Toyota back in 2000.

I can kick myself for that now. What was I thinking.


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## Jim Prill

Words of advice, if you either rebuild or go with a rebuilt engine make shure you use the aftermarket steel guides for the timing chain. I have a 89 with a rebuilt 22re and found out the hardway that the stock plastic ones break easly and the chain wears through the timing cover. I replaced mine with ones from northwest offroad (great toyota parts house).


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## Chainlink

streetsurfin' said:


> I want to jump in here if you guys don't mind. I owned an 86 with the turbo and kick myself quite often for selling it. Chainlink. do you know much about them? Are these engines sought after because of any heavier duty parts in them. I think it was the following year, maybe two, that they introduced the 6 cyl. in the p/u. As a result I don't know if the turbo had much success. I want to start looking for a used Toyota for next summers lawn work, then eventually plowing, and hope I can find another turbocharged one. I'll check the links for the builders too. Thanks!


The turbo is a 22re-t it is a rare bird these days but you could find one if you were wanting to spend the dough , most people that have one know what they have. As for being beefed up kinda, the internals for the most part are the same except the pistons(need less compression) the tranies were heavier duty and I believe the rear axle was the same used for the 6 cylinder models

as to the later post some one suggested upgrading the timing chain guide I whole heartedly agree.


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## lawlopez

I think getting the metal guides is a fine idea.

Jim what happened to your engine ?

http://www.doaracingengines.com/chainguides.html
shows a set and a price, I'll found them at northwest offroad at http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/mastertiming.html


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## lawlopez

There is something I don't understand.

The chain guides were originally made of plasic
and brake.

This takes out the chain cover.

Why does all this make the chain wear out and break sooner ?

I have a suspicion that I've got the process backwards or something.


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## Jim Prill

The toyota engines where designed to have two plastic guides that keep tention on the chain, as the chain stretches the guides keep tention on the chain so that the timing does't go out of spec. Unfortunatly toyota wasn't expecting 200,000 miles out of these engines (it woudn't be good for sales if we bought a new toyota every 15-20 years would it!!) so these guides get hard and brittle from the heat that these little work horses produce and after while they crack and break. I installed a rebuilt long block and wasn't aware that the cheap s.o.b.s used cheap aftermarket guides. After replacing the timing cover and the chain and guides everything is good.


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## lawlopez

So the guides maintain the tension and when they break we lose chain tension.

Ok. I get it.


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## lawlopez

*I couldn't help myself*

The nearby bone yard had 3 toyotas out in front.
I asked them about it.
I then called every bone yard in NH and ME.

I ended up buying a 152k motor from a '89 4runner
for 600$ which included the starter. I paid another
30$ for the alternator.

It had compression of 177, 176, 165, 175 and
oil pressure of 60 cold and 40 hot.

It sounded real nice. Only some ticking from
the injectors.

I was getting too twichy considering the remanufactured
ones.


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## Chainlink

well 150 000 miles plus, with good compression..big surprise  , thats why I love toyotas. 

Still cosider checking the guides as stated before as for the injectors this is typical so no worries just run some cleaner through them and 2 or 3 tanks of high test fuel and they should quiet down a little but I figure with that many miles you will not get rid of the ticking all together. Also the ticking could be in the valves, they are very easy to tune, cheap gasket replacement also(just make sure you have the half moon gasket plugs that go on front and back are lined up carefully). All that said ticking is common for these but shouldnt be very loud.


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## lawlopez

It is still possible that the enginehas been replaced.
I haven't been able to locate any of the original
owners.

At first I didn't hear the ticking at all.
After a while I noticed it but it wan't very loud at all.
I don't think I'd hear it with the hood closed, for instance.

I'll at least inspect the guides.


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## Chainlink

The loudness or lack there of you describe is in my opinion a good thing. I doubt very much it has been replaced. It is widely known that Toyotas get high miles regularly. Many including myself joke that a Yota is finally broken in after 100,000 miles. I personally have had a few that had over 300,000. I have also bought a couple with over 200,000 and didnt bat an eye about it.
Regular maintenance is the key with any machinery but toyotas may be imo the most reliable made. They are considered low on power but they will almost never strand you. I say almost because I had a fuel pump go on me once grrrrrrrr.
To sum up give it the once over (tune up and as before stated upgrades) and you should easily expect another 50,000 to 100,000 trouble free miles.


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## lawlopez

*well I got my exercise today.*

Well monday I found the engine but
the mechanic wasn't answering the phone.
Tuesday I got the mechanic but the yard
couldn't give me the engine.
I got the engine at 2:30, is started raining
at 2:40 and of course by the time I got to
the mechanic's place he had gone home.
So I towed the truck a bit so I could
access the bed, moved the engine on the
bed, and tarped the whole thing.

I'm tired.

The good news is that the water pump and
clutch look new.

So, I hopeful that I have a new timing chain
already.


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## lawlopez

Well The engine is in. I drove it home thursday in a snowstorm after putting the plow on it. The only bad thing is that the muffler/pipe connection snapped where it was rusted out. I think I was getting wither some exhaust or perhaps oil smoke into the cab but I'm not sure what. It might just have been residual stuff floating around. A new toyota chain was put in. It works really well on plowing my driveway. I'm 1200' long so I don't have to clutch all that much.

Now to fix the muffler ...


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## lawlopez

muffler fixed.

Now I need to R&R things.
Plow is balky.
I need to replace the fluid and see if it works better.


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## ProWorkz.com

*Yotas*

I wanted to comment on my Toyota experience. I purchased a 90' Extra Cab with 3.0 V6 for a work truck in 2003. Has had a wrist pin issue ever since I purchased the truck for $1500.00 with 148,000. I carry 500 lbs of Diesel and another 300 lbs of tools in my tool box. I live at 5300 feet and go over a 9300 foot pass when ever it snows. The roads are steep and in the winter sometimes almost un-passable. My Toyota makes it everytime. Most reliable truck I have ever had. I just check the oil every day. I told my self I will buy a new Diesel as soons as this truck stop running. Looks like I will have to wait a long time for that new truck......... 

Painted this bad boy with Dupont Bed Liner Paint. Looks as good as new...!!!


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## Class IV livin'

*Folks in New Boston*

Hey there Lawlopez, how's New Boston? You must know Yogi. He's good friends with my mother-in-law, and everyone else in town. You might even know my mother-in-law... Maggie Flansbury. My name's Dan, by the way.


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## lawlopez

I put some wood in the back for weight.
3 logs 4' long 14" diameter.

I'm kind of thinking it works better in snow than my F350 did, My tacoma,
and even my Wife's Subaru LLBEAN 2001.

The old 1993 Subaru Legacy might have given it a run for the money.

I am having trouble with clearance.
It seems the plow is very low.
I'm an extra cab also.

So far:

$1000 for truck.
$630 for engine with spare alt/gen.
$850 for install.
$150 for muffler (from cat back, not including cat).

$10 for 2 cans of Mobile 1 atf fluid for plow.

I need to raise the front end a bit.
anyone know how much trouble this is ?

The plow is perhaps 3 or 4 inches above
the ground when it is all the way up!

It's a 6'9" Fisher plastic edge.
Works good with all the rocks
I have on my dirt driveway.

Larry


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## Chainlink

Looks as though everything is coming together for you, as for the height you can turn up your torsion bars. I am not a big fan of this but many people I have known in the past did it just to help even out the stance on there truck so combining the weight of the plow this might be the little lift you need. Torsion bars are pretty strong but I have seen them break under major strain(35" mud boggers to much gas and booze) There are heavy duty replacements for them at not to huge of an expense from companys like http://www.downeyoff-road.com . I would crank them up an see if it helps, take note though it may cause premature tire wear as you are changing the ride height. I do wonder though if the plow say would balance that out. Nothing an alignment cant take care of. Also the ride will be alot stiffer when the plow isnt on. Good Luck


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## lawlopez

I forgot to say, I had 19" of snow and did it in 3 passes.
I plowed like a dream.

Of course this was the lightest snow I've ever seen.

It was 15F outside.

Everything stuck together.

We have so much snow removal equipment in this town
that nothing shut down at all.

I went out onthe road just to see what was up
and followed a grader out to the bigger road.
I would shutter calling it a highway.

Thanks for the torsion rod comments.
I forgot all about that.

I was kind of thinking of the timbrens.
I wonder how easy they are to put on.

It does plow pretty good but driving to the gas station is
somewhat interesting.


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## Chainlink

From what Ive read from many many other posts timbrens are a breeze to put on, I have no expirence with them so I cant comment.


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## sixspeed

Front Timbrens won't work on a 93 Toyota FRONT. They have a torsion bar front suspension. You can just crank up the torsion bars a bit to raise the front end. Visit any Toyota forum on the net for the ins and outs.... Thanks!


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## lawlopez

That's interesting, they show it as a part for it.

Too bad.

Cranking up the torsion bars would be cheaper anyway.

What do I need to do this ?

I wonder if Toyota can do it without making a fuss.


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## Chainlink

basic tools is all you need I cant remember off the top of my head what size socket you need. Typically most people just crawl under there and crank away till they get the desired results. The blots the need cranking are right at the end of the torsion bars. Not by wheels but back towards transfercase. If you are really not in the mood to do it yourself go to a local garage have them do it. Plus it might be a good root due to the age of your truck impact gun might help (love them air tools). But all in all not a hard job, I would relieve the front end before you try this. Also like I said before this isnt the ideal situation but it may be just the little help ya need. AS for going to the Stealership try a small outfit as I am confident they will be cheaper and know what you are looking for. 

I would do it myself though


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## lawlopez

I ended up getting the Timbrens.
They do work.

Everything is happy.

The plow raises up much more and it seems to work dandy.

I thought about adjusting the torsion bar but it kind
of scared me being 200,000 miles and 12 years old.

I also don't know if I want to use the car as a daily
driver and didn't want to mess up the alignment.
Those tires are so nice on it.

Now to get a spare polymer blade.


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## Donny O.

Chainlink said:


> http://www.lcengineering.com/ heres another thing to think about, get a mild boost with a cam and there is a 20r head used in 22r set ups , boost in compression I should look and see if they convert the 20r head to EFI.
> But if you really want to keep it mild the typical engine enhancements help out the 22r and 22re cams headers bigger injecters. I would really look into a going through a credible engine builder, heres a couple of the more known builders.
> 
> http://www.lcengineering.com/
> 
> http://www.doaracingengines.com/4cyl.html


I had an 89 xcab with the 22re and would need to downshift on the highway at times. ended up putting in a cam from www.engnbldr.com and never had to again. still idled like normal and I didnt' notice any diff in MPG but it definitly gave me the boost I needed. he claims 20hp and 20lb/ft of torque I think from the RV cam. just went and looked though and don't see it listed anymore....it was about 4 years ago when i did this.


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## lawlopez

How hard is that to do ?

I was using it to drive to work and felt it was dandy but
I was always around 3,000 to 4000 RPM.

Around here we are typically doing 70 MPH and
I really notice the lack of headroom.

What's getting hurt is the MPGs.


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## lawlopez

their web page says they are sold out of cams.

Still, most of it's time it's going to sit there
in winter with a plow ready to go.

Or at least that was the plan.

If I can get the mount/demount time for the plow
down to 2 minutes it would be a fine daily driver
Except for the MPGS.

Which cam did you put in ?


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## lawlopez

Well the OEM Fisher blade HDPE tore itself all up and I replaced it with a new blade purchased locally from a plastics shop. It's Poly urethane. Now I need more front
end lift now that the blade is long enough.

I'll go take a look at those torsion bars in a bit.


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## peterng

*proworks*

proworks,

If you are still around these parts let me know, I'd like to talk to you about your dupont paint job and suspension on the toy.
Thanks,
Pete


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## lawlopez

The blade edge is polyurethane.
It not painted in polyurethane.

The Timberins helped somewhat.

Whar REALLY helped was that the plow blade
has two adjustment positions.

You pull two pins.
Move it to the other position.
And suddenly it is much much higher off the 
ground.

Hope this helps.

The Toyota pickup '93 is a wonderful plow vehicle for me.
I can plow around the barn and turn around in front of
the garage in one pass always.

I plowed with a F350 with 4 doors and which it plowed on
the straight an narrow real fine it was awful in close quarters.


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## peterng

Lopez,

How much did you pay for the replacement poly blade ? and what sort of a plastic shop did you buy that at?

Do you have a picture of the truck with the plow on it and the timbrens installed? I was thinking of putting them on mine instead of torqueing the torsino bars, but you claim I may have to torque them anyways eh?

Thanks,
Pete


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## lawlopez

No, I did NOT touch the torsion bars.

The entire problem was caused by the original installer.

The blade has 2 positions.

It was set to the low positions.

There is a picture of this on this web site which I found which
made it all clear.

This is for a FIsher plow blade.

The blade frame inserts into the minute mount.

But the blade frame has two internal positions.

This is what I changed.

I got the polyurethane at an ordinary plastics shop.

Note that the OEM blades are polyethelene.
They don't wear as well.

Basically I measured the plow blade and then
told them what it was for.

It was very expensive 2 or 3 times what fisher wanted for
their edge.

There are different harnesses of polyurethane and
they look it up in a chart for the aplication.

I don't remember how much I paid for it.

I'm pretty satisfied with it.

Larry


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## peterng

Lopez,

You being familiar with these small truck plows, I just picked this up yesterday:










It's a little rusty, but what would you say it is worth? I got the wiring harness and all other controls as well.

Also, any idea how I can tell if it is an HS or a G series?
Thanks,
Pete


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## lawlopez

I'm sorry Pete.
I'm no Fisher Plow Expert.
Can't help.
Don't know the difference.

Generally a old plow which
has been kept up and is functional
can go for more than $1000.
Sometimes much more.


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