# Steel VS Stainless



## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

lighter, stronger. why are so few plows made of it?


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## lawnboy2121 (Jan 25, 2007)

I dont think stainless is stronger than regular steel. its is softer and tears easier


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

lawnboy2121;1522158 said:


> I dont think stainless is stronger than regular steel. its is softer and tears easier


well. there are different grades of steel. if you are talking about the high carbon hardened steel of the cutting edge then the high carbon stuff is stronger, but if you are talking about the mold board or ribs which are made out of basic flat stock, stainless is much stronger.

costs a little more, but nothign compared to manufacturing in either case.


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## ScubaSteve728 (Jan 17, 2012)

*stainless*

fisher stainless plows look sweet and you dont have to paint them. maybe just polish them up with stainless steel cleaner


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

with the benifit of no rust..... this seems a no brainer to me, but heck if i know.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1522154 said:


> lighter, stronger. why are so few plows made of it?


You could ask the same about vehicle bodies and frames. Why not stainless?

The answer is because stainless doesn't rust (as much) as regular steel. How are they going to sell you a new car when your rustbucket rusts out, if it never becomes a rustbucket? Same with plows. Make it out of regular steel SPECIFICALLY so that it won't last forever. Charge a premium for the stainless.

I may be in the market for a stainless steel time machine, if anyone happens to have one for sale at a reasonable price. Preferably fusion powered with anti-gravity.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Love my stainless plow, really don't want another regular steel plow again.

My fisher Xblade was nice as well, but the moldboard rubbed against the Xbraces causing the painted bracing to rust. My Snowdogg has nice rubber strips over all of the bracing, no rubbing and no rust.

Very happy with it. 

Oh yeah, I think it throws snow better than painted steel as well.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jasonv;1522751 said:


> You could ask the same about vehicle bodies and frames. Why not stainless?
> 
> The answer is because stainless doesn't rust (as much) as regular steel. How are they going to sell you a new car when your rustbucket rusts out, if it never becomes a rustbucket? Same with plows. Make it out of regular steel SPECIFICALLY so that it won't last forever. Charge a premium for the stainless.
> 
> I may be in the market for a stainless steel time machine, if anyone happens to have one for sale at a reasonable price. Preferably fusion powered with anti-gravity.


well now there ya go. we have come to the correct answer.

side note, although care manufacturers didnt like the guy that made the delorian, or whatever, it would still be around if the guy wasnt so into dealing drugs...

second question.... wouldn't a new company make lots and lots of money if they started building their new brand of plows with stainless?


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## ducaticorse (Oct 16, 2012)

Lighter, doesnt rust, way more expensive lb for lb.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Problem with a Delorian is if you get in a fender bender, you can't repair the panel. It always has to be replaced.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

SS is the only to go


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

nice building. wish i had one (and hte customers to pay for it)


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

jasonv;1522751 said:


> You could ask the same about vehicle bodies and frames. Why not stainless?
> 
> The answer is because stainless doesn't rust (as much) as regular steel. How are they going to sell you a new car when your rustbucket rusts out, if it never becomes a rustbucket? Same with plows. Make it out of regular steel SPECIFICALLY so that it won't last forever. Charge a premium for the stainless.
> 
> I may be in the market for a stainless steel time machine, if anyone happens to have one for sale at a reasonable price. Preferably fusion powered with anti-gravity.


Not sure that it is worth replying to this and continuing said discussion.....but here we go.

Steel in a heat treated form is significantly stronger than stainless 304 or 316. You can get stainless that is very strong, (A286), but it also requires a very expensive process to get to that state. You can check on McMaster-Carr for bolt prices, compare A286 hardware to comparable grade 8 or grade 5 hardware, and see what you are paying for each fastener.

The idea that a company is designing a product to specifically wear out is kind of off-base. That being said, all parts of the car, ideally, would wear out at exactly the same time. The thing is, suspensions, transmissions, and engines will wear out generally before the structural components on a car, but all around the same life cycle. In addition, things like door latches, seats, stereos, and the entire interior are also becoming worn around that time. There is no reason to design one component to last for 50 years, when the rest of the car will wear out. And yes, in some ways it would be possible to design a car that would last for 30 or 50 years. However, technology continues to improve, allowing for smoother, more powerful, more efficient cars, and improved ergonomics. For this reason, people tend to keep a car for around 10 years (plus or minus), and then move on to something new. A manufacturer that designed a car to last 30 years would price themselves out of business, because people would want to purchase a newer vehicle in the 10 year timespan regardless of designed life cycle of the vehicle. Automotive manufacturers recognize the purchasing trends of consumers, and design their products to last approximately that same life cycle. It's a very basic concept in engineering and engineering economics.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

....And here we go :whistling:



1olddogtwo;1522766 said:


> View attachment 117975
> 
> 
> SS is the only to go


Those little wings are so cute, gotta love how DD charges an Arm & a leg and doesn't even make them out of stainless to match nor make them the correct height for the plow.

Unlike Snowdogg (credit goes to cmo18 for the pic)


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jb1390;1522790 said:


> Not sure that it is worth replying to this and continuing said discussion.....but here we go.
> 
> Steel in a heat treated form is significantly stronger than stainless 304 or 316. You can get stainless that is very strong, (A286), but it also requires a very expensive process to get to that state. You can check on McMaster-Carr for bolt prices, compare A286 hardware to comparable grade 8 or grade 5 hardware, and see what you are paying for each fastener.
> 
> The idea that a company is designing a product to specifically wear out is kind of off-base. That being said, all parts of the car, ideally, would wear out at exactly the same time. The thing is, suspensions, transmissions, and engines will wear out generally before the structural components on a car, but all around the same life cycle. In addition, things like door latches, seats, stereos, and the entire interior are also becoming worn around that time. There is no reason to design one component to last for 50 years, when the rest of the car will wear out. And yes, in some ways it would be possible to design a car that would last for 30 or 50 years. However, technology continues to improve, allowing for smoother, more powerful, more efficient cars, and improved ergonomics. For this reason, people tend to keep a car for around 10 years (plus or minus), and then move on to something new. A manufacturer that designed a car to last 30 years would price themselves out of business, because people would want to purchase a newer vehicle in the 10 year timespan regardless of designed life cycle of the vehicle. Automotive manufacturers recognize the purchasing trends of consumers, and design their products to last approximately that same life cycle. It's a very basic concept in engineering and engineering economics.


That is very interest. and while i do NOT neccerally DISagree with it, i would like to point out that cars last more around 20 years before they are considered unusable. in fact most of my vehicles have been 86's.

but here we are talking about plows that do not have such integrated parts as stereos and computers which vehicles have. you can get a new contorl moduel for a newer plow for a few hundred bucks. which is well worth not buying a brand new plow if the plow itself is in good condition. so it seems when plows are replaced, its due to the condition of the metal, not the few electronics.

and yes you can treat steel to become harder than stainless, correct me if i am wrong, but they do not do that. your ribs, mold board, frame and mount are all made of basic flat stock steel. I think there are multiple reasons for this, one being that if steel is heat treated, yes its harder, but its also more brittle.

I would like to know the answer to the question, but this question is kinda skirting around the issue. the issue is not with strength, plows are plenty strong enough, the issue is rust resistance. while my plow has fared pretty well, if i want it to last im going to have to blast and have it re coated. which isn't the cheapest process. and i do not know of any way a home user could powder coat.

also mentioning no rust == higher resale if you want a new plow for better features.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

plowguy43;1522796 said:


> ....And here we go :whistling:
> 
> Those little wings are so cute, gotta love how DD charges an Arm & a leg and doesn't even make them out of stainless to match nor make them the correct height for the plow.
> 
> Unlike Snowdogg (credit goes to cmo18 for the pic)


Well it's a custom one off plow. The black ties back in with the truck


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

plowguy43;1522796 said:


> ....And here we go :whistling:
> 
> Those little wings are so cute, gotta love how DD charges an Arm & a leg and doesn't even make them out of stainless to match nor make them the correct height for the plow.
> 
> Unlike Snowdogg (credit goes to cmo18 for the pic)


nice plow. all i woudl change would be to have the wings flip forward into a scoop position

straight mode, straight extended mode, vee mode, vee scoop mode AND straight scoop mode..... that woudl be a plow and a half.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

birddseedd;1522802 said:


> That is very interest. and while i do NOT neccerally DISagree with it, i would like to point out that cars last more around 20 years before they are considered unusable. in fact most of my vehicles have been 86's.
> 
> but here we are talking about plows that do not have such integrated parts as stereos and computers which vehicles have. you can get a new contorl moduel for a newer plow for a few hundred bucks. which is well worth not buying a brand new plow if the plow itself is in good condition. so it seems when plows are replaced, its due to the condition of the metal, not the few electronics.
> 
> ...


Your basic carbon steel is stronger than your basic stainless, and significantly cheaper. And nearly all steel is strengthened to one degree or another. Cold rolled steel is very common and significantly strengthened by the working process.

There were some manufacturers (airflo I think?) that built their moldboards entirely out of stainless (but their a frames and lifting arms, etc were still steel). It is still a lifecycle and cost issue-how many steel grade 8 or 5 bolts and other hardware is installed holding the stainless in place? How about hydraulic hoses that wear out? and pump internals? And A frames that really cannot be made to last with stainless because they would bend? Plus, as vehicles change, do you want plow manufacturers to design different vehicle hookups to go on new vehicle frames with antiquated connection designs? The new meyer setups (or fisher, boss, and everything else), is so much easier to connect. When customers buy a new truck, they often (but not always), want a newer style plow to go with it.

And all that being said, if someone is halfway decent with maintenance, and stores their plow in a good way in the off season, the rust really isn't that big an issue. Plus, to have it sandblasted and painted once every 5 or 10 years is still cheaper than making it all out of stainless. Would you pay 8 or 9K for a completely stainless plow when you could have a painted boss or meyer for 5K? And that's the answer, some people would, but most won't. Fisher and snowdogg have an interesting idea-to replace the thin moldboard with stainless, while building the structural pieces out of steel. For some, this solves the corrosion issue and rust all the way through the moldboard. For others, the pin wear and other items continue to be the limiting factor, not rust through the moldboard.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

1olddogtwo;1522811 said:


> Well it's a custom one off plow. The black ties back in with the truck


Looks good don't get me wrong, but they don't even offer stainless for their extreme v. Plus the wings really don't add much width and are angled a lot.



birddseedd;1522812 said:


> nice plow. all i woudl change would be to have the wings flip forward into a scoop position
> 
> straight mode, straight extended mode, vee mode, vee scoop mode AND straight scoop mode..... that woudl be a plow and a half.


The wings are angled forward, but you are right they don't move electronically for the other "modes".

My "And here we go" was aimed at jasonv btw.


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## ryde307 (Dec 3, 2009)

I do not have a SS plow or know anyone with one. But in relation to mild steel vs ss in other applications cost would be the bid one. 
Stainless is harder to work with as well. The average person with basic welding skill can't weld it and its not as formable as mild steel. 
The big problem I see with alot of stainless things is the main body or parts will be stainless but the fasteners or other items will not be. With those rusting its starts to look like crap. 
With a plow again I don't have or have zero experiance with SS so not sure. With salters due to how much corrosive material is in them always I would only buy poly or stainless, At this point I am just not convinced on the plows.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

plowguy43;1522824 said:


> Looks good don't get me wrong, but they don't even offer stainless for their extreme v. Plus the wings really don't add much width and are angled a lot.
> 
> The wings are angled forward, but you are right they don't move electronically for the other "modes".
> 
> My "And here we go" was aimed at jasonv btw.


I mean fully forward. box style. jsut wait till we get some snow. ill post a video. i swear im not crazy


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

ryde307;1522825 said:


> I do not have a SS plow or know anyone with one. But in relation to mild steel vs ss in other applications cost would be the bid one.
> Stainless is harder to work with as well. The average person with basic welding skill can't weld it and its not as formable as mild steel.
> The big problem I see with alot of stainless things is the main body or parts will be stainless but the fasteners or other items will not be. With those rusting its starts to look like crap.
> With a plow again I don't have or have zero experiance with SS so not sure. With salters due to how much corrosive material is in them always I would only buy poly or stainless, At this point I am just not convinced on the plows.


pinholes would inevitably be an issue. i know when i turn a corner or hit a bump my plow flops around like a frickin spooked cat.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

jb1390;1522790 said:


> Not sure that it is worth replying to this and continuing said discussion.....but here we go.
> 
> Steel in a heat treated form is significantly stronger than stainless 304 or 316. You can get stainless that is very strong, (A286), but it also requires a very expensive process to get to that state. You can check on McMaster-Carr for bolt prices, compare A286 hardware to comparable grade 8 or grade 5 hardware, and see what you are paying for each fastener.
> 
> The idea that a company is designing a product to specifically wear out is kind of off-base. That being said, all parts of the car, ideally, would wear out at exactly the same time. The thing is, suspensions, transmissions, and engines will wear out generally before the structural components on a car, but all around the same life cycle. In addition, things like door latches, seats, stereos, and the entire interior are also becoming worn around that time. There is no reason to design one component to last for 50 years, when the rest of the car will wear out. And yes, in some ways it would be possible to design a car that would last for 30 or 50 years. However, technology continues to improve, allowing for smoother, more powerful, more efficient cars, and improved ergonomics. For this reason, people tend to keep a car for around 10 years (plus or minus), and then move on to something new. A manufacturer that designed a car to last 30 years would price themselves out of business, because people would want to purchase a newer vehicle in the 10 year timespan regardless of designed life cycle of the vehicle. Automotive manufacturers recognize the purchasing trends of consumers, and design their products to last approximately that same life cycle. It's a very basic concept in engineering and engineering economics.


You make some interesting points, but simply put, body, frame, and several other major components should never wear out at all. The rest of the car is just "parts". As technology changes, wouldn't it be nice to modularly replace various obsolete components and keep the rest of it good as new for life?

No, of course not, because people these days are driven by fads.

BTW: Decent engines, transmissions, etc., all last considerably longer than vehicle bodies, which are, aside from the typical minor glitches, the FIRST component to fail. Proper maintenance can keep mechanical systems in great shape for a very long time.

As far as your structural and pricing arguments, structurally, you can adapt your components to the materials you choose to manufacture them out of, so realistically, it isn't a limiting factor. The price of stainless is considerably higher than a bucket full of rust because of the market for it. What people are willing to pay for it is a HUGE factor in pricing. The stable market price of any product is that point where the supply curve intersects the demand curve. I.e., demand falls as price increases, but willingness to supply increases with price. With stainless compared to a bucket of rust, naturally, the demand will be higher based on the superior properties (or even perceived superior properties) of that material.

Now yes, the manufacturing cost may be higher as well, which of course, causes a shift in the supply curve. The supply curve shifts to the left because of higher manufacturing cost, the demand curve shifts to the right because of perceived superiority based on material qualities, the equilibrium point is moved upward. A higher price point is established.

So the question is, how much would you pay for an all high grade stainless truck? An extra $10000? $20000? I can't put a specific number on it, but I would definitely be willing to pay more for a vehicle that won't be a rust bucket in under a decade.

The problem comes in this form though; the supply curve for materials like this shift to the left DISPROPORTIONATELY to the increase in manufacturing cost. The reason is because the supply side perceives a decrease in the REPEAT sales. I.e., they expect every driver will buy a new vehicle every, lets say 10 years (for arguments sake). If someone keeps their quality built vehicle for 50 years, that means that the rate of sales will drop to 1/5th. So not only do they need to add in the extra material costs, they need to multiply the profit margin by 5. So to quote the simpsons "Come on Homer, there is at a maximum only forty dollars worth of steel in each of these things! So which one do you want?". Point being that you're looking at probably 30x5 = $150,000 each. How many car buyers would qualify for financing on that?


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

plowguy43;1522765 said:


> Problem with a Delorian is if you get in a fender bender, you can't repair the panel. It always has to be replaced.


That is actually because it's exposed stainless. The metal itself could definitely be reworked with time, patience, and heat -- same as any steel bodied vehicle, but it would be visible once the metal cools. Paint over stainless wouldn't have this problem.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1522802 said:


> That is very interest. and while i do NOT neccerally DISagree with it, i would like to point out that cars last more around 20 years before they are considered unusable. in fact most of my vehicles have been 86's.
> 
> but here we are talking about plows that do not have such integrated parts as stereos and computers which vehicles have. you can get a new contorl moduel for a newer plow for a few hundred bucks. which is well worth not buying a brand new plow if the plow itself is in good condition. so it seems when plows are replaced, its due to the condition of the metal, not the few electronics.
> 
> ...


Needle gun, cheapo sand blasting kit, and bring it in to your local galvanizing shop to have it hot dipped. Not exactly stainless, but the next best thing.


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## Holland (Aug 18, 2010)

This is gonna be an interesting thread with these two


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

so then its not about cost or manufacturing as these are only a few dollars off from eachother steel vs SS. meaning the question is the market.

as far as stainless steel bodies at the least, I sure as heck would pay an extra grand or two for a SS body. since mine is starting to rust its going to cost me to fix it. screw it, im just going to shove a bunch of bondo in the hole... at least for the moment.

same goes for a plow tho. if it cost an extra 500 dollars, i would be happy to pay it for a SS mold board. I bought a plow with worn out pin holes, but i would never buy a plow that was rusted threw. I would retain at least an extra 500 dollars in resale value. but as was mentioned.

what is the actual price difference between a SS plow and the same plow non SS?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jasonv;1522844 said:


> Needle gun, cheapo sand blasting kit, and bring it in to your local galvanizing shop to have it hot dipped. Not exactly stainless, but the next best thing.


was going to rent a sandblasting place for 25 an hour. powder coating is the expensive part. several hundred dollars just for that.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

birddseedd;1522851 said:


> was going to rent a sandblasting place for 25 an hour. powder coating is the expensive part. several hundred dollars just for that.


Uh uh uh!  You're doing it again...... Back to basics, dude. Wire wheel and some rattle can paint.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

jasonv;1522840 said:


> That is actually because it's exposed stainless. The metal itself could definitely be reworked with time, patience, and heat -- same as any steel bodied vehicle, but it would be visible once the metal cools. Paint over stainless wouldn't have this problem.


So I guess my post was correct, no?


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Holland;1522847 said:


> This is gonna be an interesting thread with these two


 <-this would make it even more fun to watch lol


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

jb1390;1522821 said:


> Your basic carbon steel is stronger than your basic stainless, and significantly cheaper. And nearly all steel is strengthened to one degree or another. Cold rolled steel is very common and significantly strengthened by the working process.
> 
> There were some manufacturers (airflo I think?) that built their moldboards entirely out of stainless (but their a frames and lifting arms, etc were still steel). It is still a lifecycle and cost issue-how many steel grade 8 or 5 bolts and other hardware is installed holding the stainless in place? How about hydraulic hoses that wear out? and pump internals? And A frames that really cannot be made to last with stainless because they would bend? Plus, as vehicles change, do you want plow manufacturers to design different vehicle hookups to go on new vehicle frames with antiquated connection designs? The new meyer setups (or fisher, boss, and everything else), is so much easier to connect. When customers buy a new truck, they often (but not always), want a newer style plow to go with it.
> 
> And all that being said, if someone is halfway decent with maintenance, and stores their plow in a good way in the off season, the rust really isn't that big an issue. Plus, to have it sandblasted and painted once every 5 or 10 years is still cheaper than making it all out of stainless. Would you pay 8 or 9K for a completely stainless plow when you could have a painted boss or meyer for 5K? And that's the answer, some people would, but most won't. Fisher and snowdogg have an interesting idea-to replace the thin moldboard with stainless, while building the structural pieces out of steel. For some, this solves the corrosion issue and rust all the way through the moldboard. For others, the pin wear and other items continue to be the limiting factor, not rust through the moldboard.


Rust through the moldboard is a very real and very major issue.

I have two old meyers blades, one I've just built a custom a-frame to fit onto my new Arctic lift frame, the other mostly original, but several times repaired. BOTH have rusted through. The one I just modified, significantly worse. I'm going to have to go over it throughly next year (I would have this year, but wasn't expecting to be using it at all, and it is just a backup at this point in case the YJ I keep at that location takes a royal dump and I have to use my tacoma up there). The meyers blade I have on the YJ is an older blade, probably late 70's to early 80's. The moldboard is somewhat thicker on it, so it has held together a lot better, but it has a few patches in the face. The newer blade that I just modified is late 80's. The rust through on BOTH came from "inside". The ribs on it are made of angle steel that has been curved, with the open face against the moldboard. As contamination - salt/water get in behind the ribs where paint can't get to, naturally, it eats the steel away from the inside out.

I'm going to have to re-skin that blade next year, and open the top and bottom of the ribs for fluid to get through so it can be properly galvanized.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Get one of those plastic plow skins or weld in a patch until you can buy a nicer plow.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

plowguy43;1522858 said:


> So I guess my post was correct, no?


Correct, yes, but an issue unique to that specific vehicle, since the exposed stainless is a major "cool" factor, which is the primary purpose of a sports car.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

Banksy;1522874 said:


> Get one of those plastic plow skins or weld in a patch until you can buy a nicer plow.


Just throwing a poly skin over the plow face would accelerate the corrosion, since it would effectively trap contaminants against the face. Anyone going this route, probably should consider GREASING the face before bolting down the poly.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1522857 said:


> Uh uh uh!  You're doing it again...... Back to basics, dude. Wire wheel and some rattle can paint.


So far that is what iv done to the front, and have to redo at the end of each season. my wnating to sandblast and coat it (after fixing the worn pin holes) is for future plans when i can afford it.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Do what you have to do to keep this plow going. Save your money for a good truck and plow. Seriously, I feel like you just choose to not listen to sound advice. This plow is not worth sinking anymore money into it. Keep it working, but do not restore it.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1522851 said:


> was going to rent a sandblasting place for 25 an hour. powder coating is the expensive part. several hundred dollars just for that.


DIY:

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-320-415-658-177/Siphon-Blasters
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-320-415-658-176/Pressure-Blasters
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-320-415-659-182/Abrasives

And don't forget:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-320-415-659-183/Hoods
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/5050085/Misc.-Abrasive-Blasting/Sandblasting-Gloves

I'm not impressed by powder coating. It doesn't bond well to steel and you end up with water getting under it and peeling. That's why I prefer galvanizing. Its cheaper and more effective. Then on top of that, you may want to go with a low friction surface, truck bed liner maybe?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Banksy;1522889 said:


> Do what you have to do to keep this plow going. Save your money for a good truck and plow. Seriously, I feel like you just choose to not listen to sound advice. This plow is not worth sinking anymore money into it. Keep it working, but do not restore it.


Restoring it is basicialy what i have done just to get it working. now that i have put all of hte work and cash into it it really does work great and should be very reliable this year. Even if i dont do any work to it it is a good plow and will make my truck worth more when i do upgrade.

but i am listening. blasting teh plow is not a necessity, thus why i haven't done it. new controls and a few other things were necessary to make it reliable. and even those i obtained over time.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

jasonv;1522892 said:


> DIY:
> 
> http://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-320-415-658-177/Siphon-Blasters
> http://www.princessauto.com/pal/category/1000-320-415-658-176/Pressure-Blasters
> ...


a appriciate the links. but to do it that way would cost me more in sand than the rental place (they recycle sand) 50 bucks rental. vs sand and equipment

either way. this inst something that is even on the plate right now. the plow works. its not rusted real bad. ill make money with it then then maybe do a little more work on it, or just sell it with the truck and get a bigger truck w/ plow


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

a stainless plow Thumbs Up


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

jasonv;1522875 said:


> Correct, yes, but an issue unique to that specific vehicle, since the exposed stainless is a major "cool" factor, which is the primary purpose of a sports car.


Which is exactly what I said, worded in a different way.



jasonv;1522892 said:


> I'm not impressed by powder coating. It doesn't bond well to steel and you end up with water getting under it and peeling. That's why I prefer galvanizing. Its cheaper and more effective. Then on top of that, you may want to go with a low friction surface, truck bed liner maybe?


Galvanizing Yes, Truck bedliner, No



birddseedd;1522902 said:


> a stainless plow Thumbs Up


Exactly- there is a reason Snowdogg is still in business and expanding their lineup each year, and they only sell stainless plows. :salute:


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

plowguy43;1522935 said:


> Galvanizing Yes, Truck bedliner, No


Care to elaborate? Do you think that bed liner wouldn't stick to a galvanized surface?


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

jasonv;1522994 said:


> Care to elaborate? Do you think that bed liner wouldn't stick to a galvanized surface?


On the back of the plow, sure, on the moldboard its a horrible idea (at least on the face of the moldboard). Unless that isn't what you meant anyways.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

plowguy43;1523010 said:


> On the back of the plow, sure, on the moldboard its a horrible idea (at least on the face of the moldboard). Unless that isn't what you meant anyways.


What possible reason would there be to put it on the back?

Again, WHY do you think that would be a bad idea?
AFTER the moldboard is galvanized, you have what amounts to a high friction surface. Do you think that bed liner WOULD NOT STICK? Because if it would stick, it would essentially be just a low friction surface over the galvanized steel to allow snow to slide better off of it.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

jasonv;1523014 said:


> What possible reason would there be to put it on the back?
> 
> Again, WHY do you think that would be a bad idea?
> AFTER the moldboard is galvanized, you have what amounts to a high friction surface. Do you think that bed liner WOULD NOT STICK? Because if it would stick, it would essentially be just a low friction surface over the galvanized steel to allow snow to slide better off of it.


Yes good point, I forgot how slippery truck bedliner paint is. Thumbs Up


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

Thanks.
This might be the approach I take.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

i dont see waht is wrong with powder coating. it lasts for a good 10 years about or close to it. a bedliner wouldnt be a very slick surface at all.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

birddseedd;1523024 said:


> i dont see waht is wrong with powder coating. it lasts for a good 10 years about or close to it. *a bedliner wouldnt be a very slick surface at all*.


We have a winner!


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

although you could coat the bedliner with some kind of high strength polymer, it woudl then be smooth


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## ScubaSteve728 (Jan 17, 2012)

http://providence.craigslist.org/pts/3353496592.html
this one has been for sale for quite a while near me 
i paid 3200 for my 8 foot fisher mm2 with the older style lights and surface rust on 10% of the blade


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Only one season doing a couple drives? That cutting edge tells a different story, but the rest looks mint.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

LOL my new Stainless Vplow was less than his asking price


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1523024 said:


> i dont see waht is wrong with powder coating. it lasts for a good 10 years about or close to it. a bedliner wouldnt be a very slick surface at all.


You're telling me that brush-on plastic isn't slick?
The problem with powder coating is that it doesn't adhere to anything. It certainly doesn't last 10 years on high stress applications.

Perhaps I should just melt/drip a layer of plastic on?


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

jasonv;1523596 said:


> You're telling me that brush-on plastic isn't slick?
> The problem with powder coating is that it doesn't adhere to anything. It certainly doesn't last 10 years on high stress applications.
> 
> Perhaps I should just melt/drip a layer of plastic on?


I have to ask, have you ever touched/felt a spray on/roll on bedliner? Anything like Linex, Rhinoliner, dupont roll on, Herculiner, etc?


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Holland;1522847 said:


> This is gonna be an interesting thread with these two






Banksy;1522874 said:


> Get one of those plastic plow skins or weld in a patch until you can buy a nicer plow.


Close but you missed a stepThumbs Up



jasonv;1522880 said:


> Just throwing a poly skin over the plow face would accelerate the corrosion, since it would effectively trap contaminants against the face. Anyone going this route, probably should consider GREASING the face before bolting down the poly.


True unless you combine a couple of your ideas.

We weld sheet metal patches where necessary, prep, prime, coat with adhesion promoter, spray a light coat of bedliner over the plow and install a polyliner.

Grease and those polyliners not so good 

Spray on truckliner is not a slippery surface, but as stated corrosion from trapped moisture becomes an issue, the bedliner coat provides the protection you need to avoid a recurrence of the problem.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

basher;1523615 said:


> Close but you missed a stepThumbs Up
> 
> True unless you combine a couple of your ideas.
> 
> ...


Excellent idea, thank you!


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

plowguy43;1523604 said:


> I have to ask, have you ever touched/felt a spray on/roll on bedliner? Anything like Linex, Rhinoliner, dupont roll on, Herculiner, etc?


I have not, which is why I was asking for clarification. Seems kind of strange if they aren't slick, but if they aren't, then that would be a problem, wouldn't it?

Anyway, I just looked into it, and the place we use for galvanizing steel will dip a plow blade for about $20 (its by weight), but has a (sometimes negotiable, if you get to know him) minimum order of $300.

Its a nice process, not much in the way of prep required. You bring over a load of rusty partially painted steel, they acid dip it, then galvanize it, comes back galvanized like new. Obviously though, it shouldn't be too too bad. Pretty much just needle gun it and drop it off.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ok, that makes sense then. Spray on/Roll on bedliners are not slick at all, some of them are actually slip resistant. I had one in a Ram (roll on herculiner) that was almost like sand paper once it dried. Some of the higher quality liners are smoother but still provide grip so stuff doesn't slide around in the bed of your truck. 

It would definitely need something over the top of it if you were going to use it on the face of the moldboard.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

maybe slightly unrelated, but what kind of covering can you use for hte back of hte plow, fram, lift and mount to protect them against rust?


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## BossPlow2010 (Sep 29, 2010)

birddseedd;1523644 said:


> maybe slightly unrelated, but what kind of covering can you use for hte back of hte plow, fram, lift and mount to protect them against rust?


"The" is spelled t-h-e.
What do you mean cover the back? Use fluid film - you'll be fine.


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## ryde307 (Dec 3, 2009)

If the cost of replacing a rusted worn out plow is a problem then your best bet is a $5 can of primer and a $5 can of spray paint.
Spray, repeat, make money.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

birddseedd;1523644 said:


> maybe slightly unrelated, but what kind of covering can you use for hte back of hte plow, fram, lift and mount to protect them against rust?


POR15 or similar if you're looking to use something you can slap on with a brush, otherwise, galvanize it. Seriously. Cheap and quality. Ask the metal dealers around your area where to go to get things galvanized. They'll tell you where THEY go, and they know best for that kind of thing.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

ryde307;1523673 said:


> If the cost of replacing a rusted worn out plow is a problem then your best bet is a $5 can of primer and a $5 can of spray paint.
> Spray, repeat, make money.


Spray paint is useless. At least recommend a thicker brush on paint like rustoleum that can actually form a respectable barrier.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

BossPlow2010;1523667 said:


> "The" is spelled t-h-e.
> What do you mean cover the back? Use fluid film - you'll be fine.


online games have wrecked havoc on my typing skills. ign instead of ing is another one i do. i think i need to slow down my typing. 80 wpm should be good. Thumbs Up


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

birddseedd;1523644 said:


> maybe slightly unrelated, but what kind of covering can you use for hte back of hte plow, fram, lift and mount to protect them against rust?


If the paint on the back of my plow/frame chips or begins to rust, it will be galvanized without a doubt.

Thats if I end up keeping it that long and don't buy another new one.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Ill have to look into galvonizing.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

drove by the shop today to pickup a couple things. the fisher stainless blades do look pretty slick.


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