# Snow Ex 1075 spreader problems



## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

I have two Snow Ex spreaders, a 575 and a 1075. Getting them ready to work this winter (touching up rust, checking spinners, wiring harnesses, etc.)

The 575's spinner was freely spinning by hand. Plugged it up, and it took off. 

The 1075 spinner was stuck. This happens from time to time between snows as well, despite religious washing each time its used. 

It was tighter than I could force with my hands. I took a mini hand-held sledge and a 2x4 and tapped it in the direction it spins. It freed up, enough that I could (forcibly) move it back and forth. 

Then I plugged it in, and it did nothing. I sprayed some PB spray to try and help free up anything that could have been causing the problems. Now it will spin when you first turn the switch on (in "blast/99" mode) but when it slows down to a lower number, there is too much resistance and it causes it to go into OL mode. 

I spray a little, let it soak, flip the switch, let it penetrate, and when it goes into "OL", I shut it off and repeat.

Any suggestions? Areas to look? 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Sounds like the bearing rusted out. Either that or the tranny has blown out on yea. 

I am running the same set up as you. A 575 and a 1075. My 1075, the guy i got it off of backed into something. And bent the housing that the tranny and motor mount too. I have to take it all apart and hammer it out cause the auger is rubbing on the inside of the hopper. Making it barely spin. I would check that first. If thats not the case soak it again. If its not rubbing then its a internal thing.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

The bearing is bad here is a old post find my post it has the part numbers http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=34440


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## Wayne Volz (Mar 1, 2002)

*Check with your local dealer*

They should be able to test it for you. They have a test kit they can plug it into. May be an internal issue. Depending on the age, it may still be covered under warranty. Two years parts and labor is the warranty.

Good luck.


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

Wayne - can't I just swap it out for one of yours? You've probably got spares over there, don't you??

Thanks guys for all of the help. I dread taking this apart, as I've heard its a "break even more than what you were fixing it for initially" kind of deal. 

I'd rely on the 575, but its actually got more use on it than the 1075 does, hence its my backup now. I've had guys offer to buy it, but its worth more to me just to know its there.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

beverlylawncare;897925 said:


> I'd rely on the 575, but its actually got more use on it than the 1075 does, hence its my backup now. I've had guys offer to buy it, but its worth more to me just to know its there.


Man do you know me or something? Cause that is exactly what i am doing now.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Beverly Its not that big of a deal to take them apart and when you do there are some upgrades you can do putting a rubber discs below the spinner above the housing keeps the salt out of the bearing and add some more grease in the transmission helps. But if you feel the need to spend 3-4hundred more at the dealer have at it they will sell you the whole trans and motor. I sandblast the frames and rebuild them and the motors bearings every year and service the trans I run 4 of the snowex on the trim rigs after you do the first one you will kick yourself in the butt for paying the dealer hundreds of dollars for 80 bucks worth of parts and you know every part of the spreader.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

fernalddude;899303 said:


> Beverly Its not that big of a deal to take them apart and when you do there are some upgrades you can do putting a rubber discs below the spinner above the housing keeps the salt out of the bearing and add some more grease in the transmission helps. But if you feel the need to spend 3-4hundred more at the dealer have at it they will sell you the whole trans and motor. I sandblast the frames and rebuild them and the motors bearings every year and service the trans I run 4 of the snowex on the trim rigs after you do the first one you will kick yourself in the butt for paying the dealer hundreds of dollars for 80 bucks worth of parts and you know every part of the spreader.


Can you elaborate a little more on the upgrades? I started a thread a while back but no one posted in it. I know there is a lot of people on here who own a snowex spread and would like to know.

I have already replaced the bottom plate that covers the housing with a aluminum diamond plate since they seem to rust out really quick.

I am also thinking about make a type of curb card. Since it seems like its really easy to bend these things up on snow pile.


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

fernald, where do I get the parts, and I do I properly diagnose what needs to be done? I'm getting power, and getting power to the transmission. It seems like bearings, but since I'm unfamiliar with the internal components at this time, I can only go on what I've been told. Someone told me there weren't bearings, that it was simply a motor and a transmission.

Any help would be appreciated! 

Also, if I have to remove the spinner from the shaft, would I be better off putting a poly disc on to cut down on one less item to paint over time?


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

maelawncare Ok the upgrades are simple thing to keep the chemicals out of the space that the motor and trans are in use silicone to seal all the covers, Use a lite lithium grease for the worm gear, use dielectric grease for the electrical connections. Add a disc to the spinner shaft between the spinner and the housing to keep the chemicals out. Wash and repaint after every use.Change the deflector to plastic and make it fit from top to bottom between the motor housing and frame (keeping the chemical away from getting behind and in the housing) I use plastic mud flaps off semi trucks extended 3 inches or so on each side the product goes behind the truck not bouncing all over the rear bumper. I use the 575's and each on goes thru over 10 tons of product each year so they get a work out and they don't fail. On average we apply 60-70 tons of chemicals thru tailgate spreaders it is a pain with all the bags but we can switch product when we need, so its down to keeping the stuff out of the parts that fail and maintenance to keep them running. My oldest spreader is over 20 years old and still works like a champ it was the first one so I got to keep her (LOL)


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## Wayne Volz (Mar 1, 2002)

beverlylawncare;897925 said:


> Wayne - can't I just swap it out for one of yours? You've probably got spares over there, don't you??
> 
> I am willing to help you in any way I can. I would at least call your dealer even if you do the repair work yourself.
> 
> Let it snow.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

fernalddude;899687 said:


> maelawncare Ok the upgrades are simple thing to keep the chemicals out of the space that the motor and trans are in use silicone to seal all the covers, Use a lite lithium grease for the worm gear, use dielectric grease for the electrical connections. Add a disc to the spinner shaft between the spinner and the housing to keep the chemicals out. Wash and repaint after every use.Change the deflector to plastic and make it fit from top to bottom between the motor housing and frame (keeping the chemical away from getting behind and in the housing) I use plastic mud flaps off semi trucks extended 3 inches or so on each side the product goes behind the truck not bouncing all over the rear bumper. I use the 575's and each on goes thru over 10 tons of product each year so they get a work out and they don't fail. On average we apply 60-70 tons of chemicals thru tailgate spreaders it is a pain with all the bags but we can switch product when we need, so its down to keeping the stuff out of the parts that fail and maintenance to keep them running. My oldest spreader is over 20 years old and still works like a champ it was the first one so I got to keep her (LOL)


Ok thanks. I was gonna ask what to use to put between the spinner and housing. The mud flaps work good then. good to know.

i already use silicone on the bottom plate. gotta keep that stuff out.

My 575 is about 10 years old. I bought it from an old guy who only used it on his DQ parking lot for 5 years. Really small lot and he took care of it. And so do i. I already stripped it down and repainted this year. Im going to have to do that to the 1075 that i just bought from a guy in MI. And a little more


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

I posted this on another thread that someone had posted after this one was up. I have heated and soaked the auger (and repeated a few times) and I still can't get it to budge. 

Surprisingly enough though, when I took the bolt out of the spinner disc, it came right out. The auger setscrew, yeah.... NOT. I drilled that sucker. I didn't go through the shaft.

I noticed the shaft is hollow near the auger end, is it hollow all the way down or does it go solid at some point?

I've tried pullers, I even notched out a piece of angle iron that I had and put it at the bottom of the auger (spreader is upside down on hopper frame area right now) I then used a puller and pulled downward to try and work it off the shaft, but it didn't even budge.

Any help would be great! I guess my next step is to just cut them off and order a new trans with the bearings? I don't want to do that, but what are my other options? 

Also, on the TrynEx website, I wrote down the part numbers I need to replace (trans kit with shaft; auger, and disc) whats the cheapest place to get these parts? I found RCPW, is that the best one?

Thanks!


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

This place.
http://www.centralparts.com/parts/salt-spreader-parts/

Their about 5 to 10% cheaper than RCPW and ship very fast.

Heres the parts manual for the spreader. It lists everything
http://www.ukladder.com/images/SnowEx_Tailgates_ManualE.pdf

Can you keep drilling out the set screw all the way through? I would try that first before cutting the shaft in half. I would try absolutly everything you can first. Heck get a torch and cut the the hole through. A bolt through there is cheaper then replacing all the parts.

I got pissed at mine and just started beating it with a sledge hammer  So it would up costing me $700


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## Wayne Volz (Mar 1, 2002)

maelawncare;908895 said:


> This place.
> http://www.centralparts.com/parts/salt-spreader-parts/
> 
> I got pissed at mine and just started beating it with a sledge hammer  So it would up costing me $700


We have all been there with something. It's not funny at the time, but you look back and say what the heck was I thinking about! However, it does make you feel better when you go off sometimes.

Good luck getting your spreader fixed. Sounds like we are going to use them Friday night and next week. Yee ha!


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

Wayne, sounds like you are being optimistic! I've got the 575 to use if we end up getting anything. 

Mae - I'll try drilling a little further. I thought about that too. Worst case, stick a bolt and nut on it, so long as the ends didn't block too much so the material would try and hang coming down the corkscrew.

I'm fixing to turn the heater on and head out to the shop in about an hour. We'll see where it gets me!


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## Wayne Volz (Mar 1, 2002)

*Good luck*

I am sure you will have success getting it fixed. Yes, I may be a little optimistic, but it makes us feel better that way.

Who knows. I was a little worried about the forecast last night when I saw it was sponsored by Kroger. LOL

Seriously, good luck in getting your spreader completed.


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

Allow me to throw something at you guys. I've heated, soaked in PB blaster, cursed at, beat on, etc. off and on now for 4 days. I went to turn the auger with a pair of channel locks, (so I could heat the other side of the auger well prior to spraying again) and now the shaft (auger, spinner disc, etc.) is moving quite freely in both directions.

How feasible is it that while applying heat to the auger, the heat transferred through the shaft and allowed the PB blaster and WD40 I had sprayed (while the spreader was upright and on the truck) to free up the bearings or the tightness? I can now move the spinner disc almost effortlessly in both directions.

I hooked up some jumper leads to the plug, and turned the power on to my "jumpstarter box" and it is spinning well now. I'm going to back my truck up to the spreader so that I can plug it into the harness and turn the control box on, just to see if it does what it was prior, which was during the "blast/99" setting in the initial 2-3 seconds of flipping the switch on, it turned at a slower than typical pace, then once it reduced down to the knob setting, it would give an "OL" error code, showing overload.

SINCE I haven't torn up the auger, spinner disc, or shaft (YET) if it works with the control box, should I put the bottom cover back on, soak it good with WD40 and use it until it locks up? All I have invested (minus my hours of labor and sleepless nights thinking about this) is my can of PB blaster, my torch, and thats about it.

THOUGHTS ANYONE??


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## Wayne Volz (Mar 1, 2002)

*Try IT!*

Makes sense to me. With the additional heat, the PB blaster more than likely would have thinned out and got to areas of concern. Long term who knows until you use it. Short term. hook it up, stand it upright and try it later.

You may have done it! Good luck.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

Well i got my new drivetrain in. Figured i would share a few pics for yea.

As you can see the hole for the auger in the drive shaft goes all the way through. So if you drill it you should be good. 









its a 3/16th hold


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## beverlylawncare (Nov 14, 2003)

Ok, finally got back to messing with this spreader. Here goes: Mine must be one of the older ones, because there are no bearings at the top of the transmission, just the shaft that goes into the housing, no bearings. Also, after speaking with a high school buddy of mine who happens to work at a Snow Ex dealer, he said once I got the auger and spinner off, and dropped the trans and motor from the housing, to separate the two. He said if I can spin the shaft on the transmission fairly smoothly, the problem is most likely the motor going out. Well, I couldn't, so that indicated to us that its the transmission is bad. 

I'd love just to replace the bearings, as stated several posts above, but this one has none to replace. HOPEFULLY the new set up will.


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