# Long term K-35 project started



## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

I've had most of the parts for a while now, I've finally decided it's time to get motivated and build the K-35 (1-ton 4x4) I've been thinking of for a long time.

Although the parts truck in the pic is a crewcab, I'm going with the 131.5" wheelbase. Original plan was to shorten that frame, but looking at the rust and other damage in the rear portion of the frame I decided to use the back half of a C-35 (2wd) frame I had. (Around here at least, 1-ton 4x4 stuff is hard to find and $$$ if you do find it) That means swapping spring hangers, but that's easy - torch the rivets off and use 7/16" bolts to re-attach.

Horse-trading with a friend who's also "into" trucks got me the dually axles I'm going to use - he had a set for his project truck but preferred to build a SRW one.

Frame is spliced now, today I'm working on fish-plating the splice and strengthening any other potential problem areas such as around the steering box.

Undecided right now as to whether this will be a second truck, or if I swap my '75 onto this frame. Lots of time to decide that - this is a l-o-n-g term project!


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

Good luck Rob.


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Why not keep the crew cab, and just make a short bed out of the rear. Nothing like plenty of cab room.
Dino


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## snow (Jan 5, 2001)

one day when i learn enough mechanical skills to build a project truck , and find a garage or something around here (no room to work on projects in my garage) mayb i'll custom build a snowplowing truck or something. this project build up interests me. just think rob, a 4wd truck you could plow with and expand your business. if u didn't want a crew cab could u shorten it to be a supercab shortbed?


keep us updated,



bryan


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Good suggestions on the crewcab, but that cab was "lunched" anyway - I have a regular cab from an '81 4x4 that's already off the truck and ready to use. 

The more I think about it, the more I plan on putting this frame under the deck/front clip/etc I have now and stick with just having 1 truck: the way my '75 is configured now with the winch/wrecker/fifth wheel attachment it does pretty well everything I want it to. The 4x4 will just make it that much more versatile for the snow work.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Chev/GMC interchangability is a great thing for projects like this. The "basket case" truck shown here is one I picked up a few years ago (if I had known a bit more about 4x4's then I wouldn't have bought it!) and used as a beater yard truck for one winter.

It's since gone on to the big parking lot in the sky, but the cab, engine and transmission will be used for the one I'm building. Transfer case is one part I still have to come up with - this truck had a chain drive but I prefer the gear drive for my application.


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## plowjockey (Dec 3, 2000)

Find an old Mack B-61 cab for it.

Bruce


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## JCurtis (May 14, 2001)

*Starting my own K35 Project soon*

Just agreed to buy a running K35 DRW cab and chassis for $500
as a matter of fact, its the same truck that I wanted to buy last year, without the s.s. spreader and the 9' plow.

I havent picked it up yet, but will soon. since they have to remove the water tank and spray rig from it.

I cant wait to get started on it. I don't intend to rush this project, but I am hoping that it will be done for next winter.

And YES, snow, when I get it, you can come and take some before shots, unless Santa brings me a digital cam.


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## snow (Jan 5, 2001)

Jeff, now you'll have something worth me taking photos of . if u want me to snap some pix of it before, give me a PM or email. I'm off thursday and friday if your availible then.


Bryan


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## MTCK (Feb 13, 2000)

Rob- I'm green w/ envy!! Man that looks fun. Want to take my finals and I'll play with your truck project? So are you going to run a box or flat bed on it? Motorvation? Regular cab, with a standard length frame right? I saw a chevy pickup in a mag a few years ago, mid 80's with a custom made extended cab. Not a crew cab, and it looked nice. It was bright yellow and sorta show trucked out, so that was too bad. Good idea though. I always loved the way the late 70's Fords with the extended cabs looked. Keep us up to speed! Thanks

Marcus


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

MTCK - I'm pretty well settled on swapping my '75 stuff onto the 4x4 frame, so it'll have a similar (wrecker style) deck on it. Regular cab/131.5" wheelbase is the plan, and I also saw a club cab conversion on like you describe a Chev pickup this summer. It was well done and looked "factory", but since I prefer working with "heavy metal" as opposed to body metal, I'm going to limit my bodywork to cab corner/rocker/floor repairs - all the rest of the sheet metal is a simple bolt-on operation.

I have a 350/4 spd on hand right now, just have to track down a gear-drive transfer case. Suspension is going to be pretty much stock, with the exception of some added leaves, and a 2" lift on the body.

Biggest problem I have? Time or lack thereof. Fingers crossed, there will be time to do a bunch of fabbing on the frame over the new year weekend.


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## stslawncare (Jun 8, 2000)

sounds like a project. good luck!!!!


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## GMC4x4 (Oct 30, 2001)

<<<I saw a chevy pickup in a mag a few years ago, mid 80's with a custom made extended cab. Not a crew cab, and it looked nice. It was bright yellow and sorta show trucked out, so that was too bad. Good idea though. I always loved the way the late 70's Fords with the extended cabs looked.>>>

i remember a few years ago there was a guy who used to drive around in a mid 70's ford truck. he had two extended cabs on it. one facing forward and one facing backward. no matter which way it was going it always looked like it was coming at you. it was painted yellow and the guy had done a pretty good job on it, when it was sitting still you had to get right up to it to even tell which end was actually the front! pretty crazy looking truck.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*Was burnin' today!*

Not literally (although I did come close a couple times  ) but on the 4x4 project: front springs are off and on their way to the spring shop where the pros can put new life in them - bushings and add/replace leaves as required.

With them out of the way the work of double-framing (adding another layer of plate to the web) is underway. Cardboard patterns are cut & fit, then the outline traced onto 3/16" plate and torch cut. For the most part, it's a "freehand to the line" operation cutting them since the frame has plenty of subtle curves, especially at the front end where I was working today.

Once the pieces are cleaned up, they get clamped on & tack-welded in numerous places. Then "weld all around" - I'm using the stick machine and 6013 for this job.

It's a bit of a tedious operation so I just tackle it in managable doses, right now it's about 1/3 completed.

LOT of work to do yet but it's progress.


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## MTCK (Feb 13, 2000)

Sweeeeeeet! Still have the camera rolling? I'm following most of what you're saying, but you know what they say about a picture.....  Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*Been taking photos, but............*

........................since I still use a camera that requires film (remember that stuff?  ) they aren't ready yet.

More progress today though: As of now the double-frame work is complete from the middle of the cab up to the front of the frame. Steering box is bolted back on, as is the front crossmember (I took it off to make the double-framing easier)

Need to get new engine mounts, but the mounting brackets for them are bolted back onto the frame now too.

Things like the front crossmember, which were riveted from the factory, I remove by torching the rivet head off close to the surface - careful not to gouge the frame!  - and grinding it down flush. Then drive it out with a tapered pin and decent-size hammer. To re-install, drill the holes out to 7/16" and use Grade 8 hardware.

Still to be done is the rest of the double-framing on the back half, then I have to start "disassembling" another one of the donor trucks for some components.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Good plan Rob. Better to use bolts over welding. You want it to be removable and even though you want a stiff frame you need to allow for a little flex. Can't wait to see the progress.


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## RTallday (Feb 27, 2001)

Rob,

Good luck with the K-35. Looks good and sounds like itll be great when its done. Glad you are using the DRW setup.


-Rich


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Hi Rich - been a while since I saw you "on-line"!  

Bit by bit, getting closer to being a truck: Front springs back on and some more 3/16" plate has found it's way onto the frame.

After finding out what they cost ($270/side for the mains, $70/side for the helpers, Cdn $ of course  ) I've pretty well decided to go with all brand new for the rear springs as opposed to rebush/rebuild what I've got now.


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## RTallday (Feb 27, 2001)

Hi there, just wanted to share some stuff about the 30 series trucks. A friend of mine sold one over the summer, a 77 2wd with a 454, TH400 factory air, crew cab, long bed. It was the camper special. Was in great shape when he sold it. Also had all vynal interior with power windows. Nice shape. Another friend of mine recently finished one, was origionally a 78 i THINK, but he put the front clip from a 90 pickup on it, and made it 4wd, with a 4 speed 350 motor. If i can get a pic scanned, ill send it to you. Also, i guess the first guys truck the 77, his name is Rich also, would be a C-30, and the second, which is owned by Brad, would now be a K-30? Just making sure im with the program. Thanks

-Rich


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Rich - yes, 2wd trucks in the body style used from '73 to '87 were "C" series, 4wd's were "K" model. The Chevy trucks used "30" while GMC used "35", since my frame is going to end up under my '75 GMC that's why I call it the K-35 project.

Also, once the "jellybean" styling came out on pickups for '88, the C/K designation was used for those models. However, the older style body continued to be used for a few years (Suburban/Blazer and 1-ton C & C) and was designated "R" for 2wd and "V" for 4wd.

Been busy plowing this week, so not a lot of work went into the 4x4 until today, when I did some more cutting and tacking on the double-frame part of the project, bolted the engine mounts in and also replaced the front crossmember - the one that the brake proportioning valve is mounted to. Hadn't originally planned to do so, but after I started cutting the monster "tow hook" made from 1/2" plate off it (I did _not_ put that on!) I realized it would be more practical to cut it out and replace it with another one that was on hand.

And no, there aren't a dozen trucks lined up outside the shop - but there ARE a lot of parts from ones that the vultures have been at stored away inside!


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Double-frame work is now complete, and rear spring hangers drilled & bolted in place.

Some $$$ need to go out for new springs, and once they're on it'll be time to look at getting axles on the frame and "mock-up" work on the driveline.


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## GeoffD (Dec 21, 1999)

Do any work on it over the weekend, I have been following the saga.

Geoff


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*Yes, there has been some more progress over the weekend:*

The "vultures" I mentioned in a previous post (OK, just one vulture armed with a torch) were busy yesterday afternoon scavenging some parts off a donor truck: Rad saddle and front cab mounts. Other disassembly was done at the same time, but those were the parts I was after.

As of now, they've been cleaned up & mounted to my frame.

Another part that I _was_ going to salvage was too rusty for my liking - crossmember between the forward rear spring hangers. Not a big job to build from scratch anyway.

Plan to pick up springs & hardware this week, goal for the end of next weekend is to have the axles on & the frame capable of being rolled around on it's own wheels.


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## RTallday (Feb 27, 2001)

Rob, Im impressed by how fast this project is taking shape. I remember when i was doing the chevy, everything seemed to take forever. Also thats cause that was my daily driver, and there is nothing more aggrivating than having to stop working early, just so you can drive home. Id love to see some pics of the fabrications thus far, if you have any around. Also, what kind of luck did you end up having with the rear disc conversion? Your project kinda makes me wish i had a project vehicle in the works, but we'll see what the summer brings  

Good luck and keep us posted!!

-Happy fabricating-
-Rich


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Rich - the first 10 years I had my '75 that's how I worked on it - had to have it functional 'cause it was my only "wheels". Swapped cabs & most of the tin back around '91 or '92 in a weekend since I had to have it driveable by Sunday night................................

Last big teardown was in '96, I had my Capri or the bike to get around on then so I was able to do a fairly extensive job that time.

I'm pleased with progress so far also, I have to admit I had thought I would have more plowing days though. Sort of a catch-22 situation: Having the time to work on it is great, but some snow $$$ to pay for all this "nonsense" would be handy too.

Pics _are_ being taken (honest!) although I haven't got a whole roll used up yet, didn't think people would be too interested in seeing EVERY piece of the double-framing operation.................... 

The more I look into it, the more likely I will stick with the drum brakes out back. Thanks to members who have posted a few links, I have been able to check out info on coverting the 14-bolt full floater rear end to disc, but those were all SRW (Single rear Wheel) units. The dually has bigger 13" x 3-1/2" brakes out back than the SRW axle, and I suspect the engineers knew what they were doing when they put 'em on there. Since this truck is going to end up fairly heavy, I want plenty of stopping power.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*It's on wheels!*

Been a very productive weekend so far: Picked up the springs and associated hardware and got them on, then bolted the axles into place. Have a set of 4 shop tires on it now so it can be rolled around, that goal was for the end of the weekend so I'm actually a day ahead of schedule! 

Picked up brake line & fittings - bought a roll of it so I can make my own, this way I can run one unbroken line from the proportioning valve to the rear brake hose.

Also went "mining" for driveline components. The shop I rent is a fairly small one, inevitably some parts end up stored behind other ones............................ I _knew_ there were two 4-speed transmissions and two transfer cases around, just had to dig 'em out. Have them accessible now, tomorrow I may get ambitious and bolt up an engine/trans/transfer case to get them in the frame and start that "mockup" work for the driveshafts. Once I have them figured out, the trans/transfer case will go out to be checked over and repaired as needed before it goes back in for good.


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## Chuck Smith (Dec 30, 1999)

Gave Rob some space for this project on my site. I will add more as Rob sends it to me.

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/robsK35.html

~Chuck


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

OK, weekend is winding down and here's where progress is at: Dummy engine/trans/transfer case are in the frame, need to get a new rear mount and get the crossmember fitted and drilled.

I prefer to buy brake line by the roll and make my own, so I spent a bit of time "doing lines" this afternoon, the 3 lines on the frame are in place - 1/4" to the rear axle and the two 3/16" ones to the front wheels. Drilled and tapped holes in the web as required to secure the lines with clamps and needed to fab a bracket for the rear axle brake hose.

Time to clean up and get ready to go to work tomorrow - gotta pay for all this fun _somehow........................_


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## gcspray (Feb 2, 2002)

*4x4 conversion*

Hi Rob,
Looks like you have quite a project there. You obviously know what you are doing, something that I cannot claim.
I am finishing up a 4x4 conversion project of my own, however since do not have the skills to do heavy frame modifications, possess limited knowledge of the trucks themselves, I went about it differently. If I were to try extensive welding and frame modifications, I would have ruined a perfectly good truck. 
I already owned a 1987 Chevy Crewcab Dually with a fuel injected 454, SM-465 4 speed, and 3.73 gears. The truck is like new, with 60,000 actual miles, having been garaged, only driven in good weather, and only used to pull a race car trailer, and a 5th wheel camper. It is also a factory customized truck, done by Choo-Choo Customs of Chatanooga Tenn. I had installed a US Gear two speed aux transmission, a bed mounted 80 gallon alluninum aux fuel tank/tool box, and a 6500 watt Onan RV generator between the frame rails in the rear, accesable through a steel door in the floor of the bed. The only problem with the truck was that it was a two wheel drive. 
I began the process by finding out that the frames of two wheel drives, and 4x4's are completely different, especilly in the front. Next, I attemtped to find a good crewcab 4x4 frame. A through search by several contacts in the salvage business, revealed that 4x4 crewcab frames are about as common as hen's teeth. A request from the local Chevy dealer, revealed that a new frame, which only carried a price tag of $800.00 new, was now obsolete. The next logical step was to try and find a complete truck. 
Doing a search on the "www.autotrader.com" website, a 1988 Crewcab dually, with a 454, a Turbo 400, and 4:10 gears was located. Close enough! A dealer in Colorado had taken the truck in on trade. When they attempted to get it ready for sale, it would not pass emissions testing. They discovered that the previous owner had removed the TBI, catalitic converter, air injection reactor, and everything else that made it smog legal. In place of the TBI, was an Edelbrock Preformer carb and intake. The Computerized distributor was still in place. Amazingly the truck ran well. I called the dealer, and was offered the truck for $5,000.00 as a wholesale piece. I booked a flight to Denver!
Upon arrival, the old Silverado looked and ran well. Fairly clean, minimal body damage, No rust! Everything worked! 84,000 miles. I bought the old girl, had the oil changed, and everything else checked out great. The next morning I began the trip back to Georgia, only 1653 miles. Never exceding 65 MPH, and stopping in St Louis for 6 hours sleep, the old Chevy and I made the trip in two days! It used a lot of gas and one quart of oil!
For the conversion, I broke both trucks down to the frames. The engine, 4 speed transmission, and two speed aux transmission from my two wheel drive was used. US Gear provided the parts to change the two speed to a 4x4 output, so it mated right up to the transfer case. The front drive shaft had to be made longer, and the rear one shorter, so I had new ones custom made. The sway bar on the rear of the two wheel drive was adapted to the 4x4 chassis. The cab, bed, front clip, and everything else was swapped over, except for the existing steering mechinism, brake system, transfer case and front and rear differentials. All componants were checked and repaired as necessary. I used the brakedown as a good time to apply a thick coat of gloss black paint to everything underneath. The only thing left is a repaint of the outside. It looks pretty good, just small scratches from all of the transfer work.
The engine and transmission from the 4x4 were sold. The front clip and cab was sold. I am putting the 2 wheel frame and bed from the 4x4 together, with a hydrolic dump kit from Northern equipment, to make a dump trailer with dual wheels. After selling the excess parts, I have about $2500,00 plus trip expenses in the original 4x4. The new truck runs great, and the whole adventure was a lot of fun. 
Good luck with yout project truck!
Charles Spray


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Charles - Sounds to me like you DO know what you're doing when it comes to these trucks! You also did very well making your $$$ back in selling the parts you didn't require. Can you post a pic, or possibly some "under construction" ones? Would be very interested in seeing 'em.

Looks like it isn't just my area that has a scarcity of 1-ton 4x4 parts. The difficulty of finding a 4x4 frame was the reason I ended up mating the front half of that 4wd crewcab frame with a 2wd one I had as a spare for my '75. And even the back ends are different, the spring hangers on the "4 by" aren't the same as 2wd ones. But it's all together now and progressing nicely, although I haven't done anything yet this week - too busy at work. This weekend will see a lot of the small tasks finished up on it.

W-a-y back when I first got this idea, I had been told that "all you do is bolt the 4x4 stuff on - the frames are the same". Upon further investigation I discovered both what you did about the frames being different, and the fact that the great source of knowledge that told me that the frames were the same had never built a 4wd truck................................... 

Mine is being built for a different application than yours: Primarily for plowing, also to be able to function as a "miniature" winch truck and wrecker. No long-haul runs planned, so the 350/4speed/205 transfer case with 4:10 axles will work well for me. Just don't try to pass a gas station! 

Main ingredients: "Blood, Sweat & Gear$"


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## Chuck Smith (Dec 30, 1999)

Not only are the frames different, but the body mount configuration is different on 2wd as well. There is no problem using 4wd bushings, with the 2wd body, on a 4wd frame (that's a mouthful).

~Chuck


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

The "dealer-only" parts required - Cab cushions and sway bar bushings - are here and I noticed another small difference between the model years: Cab mounts on the '73 to '80 have a round hole about 1-1/2" dia while the '81 and up ones have a hole 2" dia but with flats on two sides. 

Mounts on my frame are off an '80, I ordered '81 cab cushions to match the cab I will be using. Not a big problem, a few minutes trimming with a torch will take care of it.

Sway bar is installed, axle vent hoses are on and the rest of the fab work to attach the helper spring pads is complete. The tank for my on-board air is in place, it's originally off a Mack but fits between the frame rails up front as if it were designed for a Chev/GMC pickup. I also have air horns off a Mack to install, they go on the frame under the cab. Three holes are required, two drilled and tapped 1/4-20 to bolt the horn on and one big clearance hole for the air line fitting. THAT hole is fun to drill by hand with the big "wrist-breaker" electric drill.......................especially since someone made the web on my frame twice as thick.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

75 

Interested in the helper spring pads. Can you take a few shots of that rear suspension when it is all done? Some work shots might be neat as well. I am sure you are snapping them as you go.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Yes, been taking photos and Chuck Smith has some of them posted on his site:

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/robsK35.html

The helper spring pads are ones I bought aftermarket, but they look the same as factory ones. Because 4wd suspensions are mounted lower on the frame than 2wd, the bottom set of bolt holes on the pad is below the frame so what I had to fab up was basically an extension of the frame web. Don't have photos of that yet but will soon.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Did not know it was something that could be bought. I thought for sure it would be total fab work. Now I really want to see some pics. Sounds like it is coming along.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

I was a bit surprised too, but the spring shop was able to supply brand-new _everything_ out back: Main & helper spring packs already assembled, rear shackle bushing, U-bolts, spacer block between the main & helper springs, top & bottom plates for the spring & axle and the helper spring pads. Total bill for that came to about $1,000 Cdn which is well worth it in the long term.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Wish I could find a spring shop in CT that was competent like that. Would help in getting my buddies 86 Chevy going. I am very interested in your project now that we are doing something similiar. He is collecting parts now so hopefully we will start fabbing in a month or so.


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

*I'm falling behind fast*

Darn,, my "Special "K"" project is falling WAY behind at this rate. Right now I've got one donor ready for surgery to pull the drivetrain and have to wait for this month's requisitions to to pay off so I can get the other one in hand and strip it down to frame and axles. This low snow winter is dealing me a bruising. It may come down to St. Louis or the truck.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Alan. 

I agree with you. What this winter has given me is time. I have plenty of it now and seem to be looking at projects I thought would have to wait. I have some jobs lined up but other then that I am just playing with projects.


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## Chuck Smith (Dec 30, 1999)

Just posted 2 more pages of Rob's progress. CT, you can see the spring detail. You might want to look into getting springs made here in NJ. Jensen & Mitchell in Newark will fix you right up. They have the specs already for over 17,000 different leaf springs. I think they have been around since 1910 but I am not sure at the moment.....

~Chuck


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## MTCK (Feb 13, 2000)

Rob- The project looks like it's coming along GREAT. It would appear you're doing a very profesional job, and not cutting any corners. It's apparent that you're quite handy with the welder. Thanks also for taking so much time to keep us all up to speed as it's fun as well as educational to watch the progress come along on such a well thought out project. When do you hope do be done? I'm sure you'll also include an intemized list of costs when you're done right?  OK, maybe not. Have fun and thanks,
Marcus


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

I have a completion deadline - by the end of October. That way the truck will be ready to push snow, also on the third weekend of November we have the Christmas parade here in town and I have "commit" for the truck/trailer to be in it.

I do have receipts for all the parts I'm buying, although I'd probably have a heart attack if I looked at 'em all totalled up........................  

But the main reason I'm doing this project is 'cause I like doing this sort of thing.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Chuck can you e-mail me the number or some contact for them? I assume they are reputable. I am looking to have a custom set built.


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## GeoffD (Dec 21, 1999)

Whats new on the truck rob?

Geoff


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

During the week I spent a couple evenings getting my tank and some of the lines for on-board air installed, while this weekend was mostly front axle work. Both U-joints were getting replaced anyway, and while the front end was disassembled was a good opportunity to clean & prime.

Of course, there's always complications: one bolt broke off & had to be dealt with, on the bad news front looks like I may need to replace the locking hubs. On the good news side the calipers/pads/rotors are fine.

Before putting the hub/rotor assembly back on I think it may be wise to invest in new front wheel bearings "just in case". Judging by the condition of the U-joints, maintenance was not very high on the previous owners list...................................the rusty colour in the pic is not from lack of lighting, it's from lack of grease.


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

Rob ,any other pics of the truck in the restoration stage?Would be cool to see you put her back together.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Yes - Chuck Smith has been placing pics of the project on his site www.chuckschevytruckpages.com and I am taking/sending pics as the work progresses. Broke down and bought a digital camera last week too............................. 

Pics are still to the "frame under construction" stage 'cause that's where the project is at so far. Won't tear my '75 apart just yet since there is about a million-to-one chance it _might_ snow again before next winter...............................but if I take the truck out of service it'll snow a foot.


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## Chuck Smith (Dec 30, 1999)

CT, here is the spring shop info. I'd rather post it here so it might help others as well.

Jenson & Mitchell
880 Communipaw Ave
Jersey City, NJ
201-332-4140

National Spring Co
38 Branford St
Newark, NJ
973-824-5655

Rob those joints look pretty bad. Usually the factory ones look like that when they come out due to the lack of grease fittings, but it is clear yours had fittings on them. The first time I did a front axle u joint, I installed the trunion with the zerk facing the wrong way  Once it was back together it was impossible to grease the u joint. You can bet I have'nt made THAT mistake again!

Your u joints still have some bearings left, when I change ones looking as bad as yours, they usually have "rust dust" in the bearing caps instead of needle bearings, or nothing at all.

~Chuck


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*On the subject of U-joints:*



> The first time I did a front axle u joint, I installed the trunion with the zerk facing the wrong way


........................before the U-joint went in "for good" I must have checked and double checked half a dozen times because I sure didn't want to make that mistake!

*Now, regarding the photo: Yes that's what you think you see............*

..........................one of them "F-word" trucks lending a hand. I was able to bring work's boom truck home for the weekend and hoisted my cab onto the frame this morning. Although it's bolted down, it will be coming off again to paint the frame. Reason I wanted it on is so I can get it inside the shop and do some bodywork, also I can fab up things like the clutch linkage extension (I put a 2" lift in) and get some wiring run.


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## cj3859 (Aug 27, 2001)

man rob you have all kinds of cool play toys  (boom truck) should be a sweet ride when all is said and done.......


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

Rob that is a sweet deal using that crain to move the cab onto the chassis. Saw one on trucks on tv they used a car lift to lift up a cab to mount and unmount the cab seamed to work pretty good.


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## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

I have used a dual post lift to lift bodies off. 

One thing to keep in mind is where to lift. I saw one guy lift it through the window frames on the doors and ended up kinking the body. I always try to lift from the bottom of the body by bolting some 2x4s to the body mounts and then lifting there or using straps under them. Seems to work well and allow slow and precise lifts.


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## MTCK (Feb 13, 2000)

That is the WAY to do it. I think we had 8 guys when we did mine, and it had the whole front clip on. Powered by wheaties and cope....

MT


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

CT18 - good point about the potential for damage if the cab/body isn't rigged properly. The cab that's on my '75 now was swapped back around '92 or so, and I learned the hard way about how to rig it: Put a dent above the door on each side because I had the sling through the cab and in a basket hitch - both ends back to the hook so the sling legs were at about a 45 degree angle.

Having learned from that, I now use a spreader bar: the one in the pic was built by a friend who is also "into" trucks.

It was made for lifting these Chevy cabs, but can be used for all kinds of things: 2 x 2 x. 250 HSS cut to 62" long, end plates are 1/2 x 2 flat bar with holes to accept a 5/8" shackle pin, top gusset is 1/4 x 2 flat bar and the centre lifting eye is 3/8 plate. "All connections weld all around". 

Any nylon sling over about 8' is long enough - doesn't have to be as l-o-n-g as the one shown in the photo of my cab going on, the spreader bar keeps the sling legs vertical so no side pressure on the cab.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*Well into the (yuck) bodywork phase now........*

..............first step was to gut the cab, can't remove too much more unless I start drilling out spot welds.

Ended up getting 7 repair panels for the cab: Both rockers, both cab corners, both front cab supports and driver side floor. Total for everything was $160.00 Cdn.

Although I don't _like_ doing bodywork, the budget isn't there to pay someone else to do it..................

Had a couple holes to repair along the windshield base, was busy this afternoon/evening on one of the rockers. Best way to handle bodywork - for me anyway - is to tackle it in manageable stages. That way it doesn't become *too* frustrating. This will actually time out well, by the time I am ready to park and disassemble my '75 the bodywork should be pretty much complete.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

*Going to have to buy some more "AA" batteries soon...........*

...................so I can get the photos up to date. Progress has been slow and steady on the K-35 all summer long, it now moves under it's own power  and the bodywork is pretty much done except for finish work & paint.

I know the front wheels drive OK because the first time I had it mobile the young lad and I had just bolted in the transfer case, hooked up the front shaft only, locked the hubs, threw it in 4-wheel-hi and went for some laps around the shop. Of course, we were missing a few minor items like hood, glass, doors, tansmission hump, exhaust pipes etc...................But it MOVED!


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## A.L. Inc. (Jan 4, 2002)

*75*

Rob-Good to see you back. I would be interested in seeing the pics of how the truck is coming. Mike


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## wxmn6 (May 23, 2001)

Hey Rob, How is the truck coming right now? Thought that I'd ask because it could snow at your area soon.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Hi all - well, although it isn't 100% complete the old truck is usable now: Had it all shined up pulling the trailer in the parade last Sunday (Nov 17) and that night, put the plow on and went out for a few hours. About 6" of the wet, greasy kind of snow so the 4x4 got a workout. Plenty of bugs to iron out and finishing touches to put on but the truck works now!  

And that 6" of snow is all gone too..........................turned mild this week, so not sure how long before it's time to plow again.


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## 4 Saisons (Dec 27, 2000)

It's nice to see that you went trought your project and you had respected your deadline.

We definitively want to see some pics...

Congratulation for your hardworking, now it's time to 
payup payup


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## TrailK10 (Oct 1, 2002)

*Rusted Cab mounts*

I was wondering if any of you guys had some tricks to get the old cab mount bolts out mine all seem to be seized up pretty good. My right rear cab mount is entirely shot and the bottom part is completely gone if the truck sees any type of flexing the cab rocks back and fourth. Id like to replace all the mounts w/ New poly cab mounts but it doesnt seem like much fun to me let me know if you have any ideas. thanks.


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## RTallday (Feb 27, 2001)

ROB, havent spoken to you in a while. If you still have my email adress, please email me. I lost yours. SORRY!!


-Rich


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## JCurtis (May 14, 2001)

*HEY ROB !!!!*

Where you been hiding good buddy!!!!

Ok, so now the truck is working, get that cam working too we all want to see it! :waving:


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