# OK 2 battery's or 160amp ALT ???



## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Hey guy's just bought this old 1999 2500 Ram w/plow RT-II V blade, it's GAS engine and has the 136amp ALT (orig I think) and has a large INTERSTATE battery (100 CCA) truck has 105K miles-changed power cables yesterday and plow work's fine but man pushed some snow over in frt yard to make room for any future snow and when you lightly hit your snow bank it's such a pull on electrical system dash bells go off for a second till you let off plow button, truck was made with plow prep (136amp alt) standard was only 117amp,
So since I'm not commercial-just want to do a few drives if I get any!! so don't want to buy new ALT when mine is good and so is Battery-But would adding a SECOND battery be the best way to HELP problem? adding a 2nd battery about $125-$150 with tray and cables--VS--160amp alt (a lot??) thank's for any responses..
**and I don't even have light's on plow yet !!!!


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

I’d put a good alternator in and be done with it. 

Hopefully that’s a typo re the 100 cca battery. If not, well there’s your problem......


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

To add a second battery is going to run more than $150.00. the battery will be that, then the tray, brackets, hardware, and then you have to run power and ground cables.


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

run what you got till it gives you greif


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

seville009 said:


> I'd put a good alternator in and be done with it.
> 
> Hopefully that's a typo re the 100 cca battery. If not, well there's your problem......


what do you mean put a good alt in it, the alt in it is good (136amp), don't know what would be best result's for the money-a 160amp alt is pricey without knowing if it will make a noticeable difference & and these day's would it really be a output of 160amps ? Kinda hoping for real life answer's (like I did 1 or both and ??)
*yes 100CCA was typo-it's a LG Interstate.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Randall Ave said:


> To add a second battery is going to run more than $150.00. the battery will be that, then the tray, brackets, hardware, and then you have to run power and ground cables.


Yes prob a little more than $150. & I don't have a core


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

YooperDog said:


> what do you mean put a good alt in it, the alt in it is good (136amp), don't know what would be best result's for the money-a 160amp alt is pricey without knowing if it will make a noticeable difference & and these day's would it really be a output of 160amps ? Kinda hoping for real life answer's (like I did 1 or both and ??)
> *yes 100CCA was typo-it's a LG Interstate.


I upgraded the stock alternator in my 2006 F350 after the first year or so. Can't remember the output, but it made a big difference in that the drawdown whrn running the plow was significantly reduced. I also replace the battery every three years with the highest cca I can get. Have a Northstar AGM battery now - 1,050 ca and 930 cca.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

seville009 said:


> I upgraded the stock alternator in my 2006 F350 after the first year or so. Can't remember the output, but it made a big difference in that the drawdown whrn running the plow was significantly reduced. I also replace the battery every three years with the highest cca I can get. Have a Northstar AGM battery now - 1,050 ca and 930 cca.


Thanks Seville, my Interstate is 1000CCA (2yrs old) and tests out well and my ALT is 136amp (wich is more than most stock ALT's) so I sure don't see wich way to go-but my drag is really bad, I mean it set's off dash bell's ringing and volt gauge drops to about 10-11 volts then when I let off plow button in about 2-3 seconds volt gauge is back just over 14volts again.


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## fireball (Jan 9, 2000)

I don't know,but before you invest money in batteries and alternator I would investigate the draw first. You might have a short in the plow motor or corroded fasteners in the relays


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

It's not until common for it to drop a few volts during plow operation.


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

fireball said:


> I don't know,but before you invest money in batteries and alternator I would investigate the draw first. You might have a short in the plow motor or corroded fasteners in the relays


He makes a good point here.

OP mentioned thst he just changed the power cables, so maybe something isn't right in the cable connections.

I had a bad power cable a few years back. Cable was evidently heating up; caused excessive power draw when I was using the plow. It actually killed the truck. Couldn't restart it until everything cooled back down.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

seville009 said:


> He makes a good point here.
> 
> OP mentioned thst he just changed the power cables, so maybe something isn't right in the cable connections.
> 
> I had a bad power cable a few years back. Cable was evidently heating up; caused excessive power draw when I was using the plow. It actually killed the truck. Couldn't restart it until everything cooled back down.


all connections I just worked on were cleaned good and cables are run correct-I double checked with diagram from Boss, and cables are new Boss cables, there is a lot of rust around-I'm gonna look at battery and alt grounds tomorrow. Thanks for keeping post going...


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

fireball said:


> I don't know,but before you invest money in batteries and alternator I would investigate the draw first. You might have a short in the plow motor or corroded fasteners in the relays


what relay's are you talking ?? it's a new sylinoid with new cables, I also changed hyd motor fluid.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Randall Ave said:


> It's not until common for it to drop a few volts during plow operation.


agreed, but my lights really dim and the bell's ringing in dash when that last little push in the snow bank is my concern, but when I let of plow button it comes right back up, it just seem's to much-but I don't have the experience to now what's to much or not...14V to 10-11V & right back up on button release.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

YooperDog said:


> agreed, but my lights really dim and the bell's ringing in dash when that last little push in the snow bank is my concern, but when I let of plow button it comes right back up, it just seem's to much-but I don't have the experience to now what's to much or not...14V to 10-11V & right back up on button release.


So your alternator is probley not your issue if I returns you to full power as soon as you let go of the button...


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

10 is a tad low.... but not super bad if it comes right back as you say.
If you upgrade alts, you need to look into idle amps.
You need to do a volt drop test and an amp draw. 
Have you upgraded your charging wire?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

YooperDog said:


> Thanks Seville, my Interstate is 1000CCA (2yrs old) and tests out well and my ALT is 136amp (wich is more than most stock ALT's) so I sure don't see wich way to go-but my drag is really bad, I mean it set's off dash bell's ringing and volt gauge drops to about 10-11 volts then when I let off plow button in about 2-3 seconds volt gauge is back just over 14volts again.


I would not rule out the battery.

I have had a couple threw the years that load test fine, but fall off when using large draw like the plow.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Philbilly2 said:


> So your alternator is probley not your issue if I returns you to full power as soon as you let go of the button...


That's what I thought to.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Philbilly2 said:


> I would not rule out the battery.
> 
> I have had a couple threw the years that load test fine, but fall off when using large draw like the plow.


Yes and I don't have a way to do a quality load test, it starts the truck strong even at -18 deg and sit outside for day's..the Interstate battery tho was not punched out when bought so I don't now how old it really is, previous owner did tell me it's alway's been same way (10years) he had it, never any problem from it, just seem's like I could help it a little.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

guy's just to clarify it's fine on a long push down the driveway-it's only when pushing in to the snow bank, maybe it's not SO un-normal??


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## fhafer (Jan 31, 2014)

If you run the plow to the stop and keep putting pump pressure to the ram you will run into an overload situation. Try letting off the switch sooner and see if the overload goes away.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

What fluid is in the plow? -18* is gonna put one hell of a load on the plow motor, especially if you don't have the correct fluid. That is too cold of temp to be running ATF as many guys do.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

fhafer said:


> If you run the plow to the stop and keep putting pump pressure to the ram you will run into an overload situation. Try letting off the switch sooner and see if the overload goes away.


that's what I will do, I'll really see if it's me making it worse, Thanks


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

kimber750 said:


> What fluid is in the plow? -18* is gonna put one hell of a load on the plow motor, especially if you don't have the correct fluid. That is too cold of temp to be running ATF as many guys do.


I put Boss HYD fluid from the dealer-drain and fill-took 2 1/2 Qts. Funny how Boss HYD fluid still has a reddish color like ATF, but qt say's on it high performane HYD fluid, I never try to save a buck on fluid's, Thank's Kimber


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

fhafer said:


> If you run the plow to the stop and keep putting pump pressure to the ram you will run into an overload situation. Try letting off the switch sooner and see if the overload goes away.


fhafer, that's a really good point (it might just be my dumb a**), I'll push into bank with first snow without hitting the up button as I'm hitting bank-I have a feeling I'm making it worse, but with this site hopefully I'll not throw money away and learn some skill's--I really appreciate everyone helping....


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## Avalanche 2500 (Dec 31, 2015)

Y-Dog, if that snow pile is frozen solid underneath it's not going to move? AS far bat./alt. get your lights,
turn signals up/ running 1st. to see the aftermath draw on amp. etc? Good luck


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## Richh56 (Dec 31, 2017)

My 99 Ram Dually with a meyers E60 on a 9 ft blade would set off my bells in dash under a couple of situation. 

Low fluid level in pump. I run S.A.M. plow fluid. Cold temps. 

My lights would dim. Volt meter dropped. Bells went off when I lift plow back up. 

I have the high output alternator too but it happened.

I added a second battery to my system and all that stopped. Pretty happy I did. Make sure your battery's are twins.. can't have one at 650 cca and other at 980 cc a

Good luck


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Richh56 said:


> My 99 Ram Dually with a meyers E60 on a 9 ft blade would set off my bells in dash under a couple of situation.
> 
> Low fluid level in pump. I run S.A.M. plow fluid. Cold temps.
> 
> ...


Rich--Thank's that's the apple-apple answer I was hoping for, and I have fresh Boss fluid in pump--I just plowed a 200ft drive (pushed yard back for snow) and only time mine does it is when pushing into bank (pile) and lifting blade -volt meter drops a little and gauge BELL ding's, lifting plow any other times its fine, so I'm just a little short on Battery storage, when hooking a second battery DO you just mount it and hook up 2 cables between Battery's and go POS-POS & NEG-NEG?? Thank's Rich


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Avalanche 2500 said:


> Y-Dog, if that snow pile is frozen solid underneath it's not going to move? AS far bat./alt. get your lights,
> turn signals up/ running 1st. to see the aftermath draw on amp. etc? Good luck


I don't have any lights on plow YET, but all truck's light's and signal's work correct.


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## Richh56 (Dec 31, 2017)

YooperDog said:


> Rich--Thank's that's the apple-apple answer I was hoping for, and I have fresh Boss fluid in pump--I just plowed a 200ft drive (pushed yard back for snow) and only time mine does it is when pushing into bank (pile) and lifting blade -volt meter drops a little and gauge BELL ding's, lifting plow any other times its fine, so I'm just a little short on Battery storage, when hooking a second battery DO you just mount it and hook up 2 cables between Battery's and go POS-POS & NEG-NEG?? Thank's Rich


I put mine in a series. Left battery .ground to truck ground. Positive to battery on Right.

Right battery . Ground to left battery and positive to starter.

I really feel this will solve your issue


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Richh56 said:


> I put mine in a series. Left battery .ground to truck ground. Positive to battery on Right.
> 
> Right battery . Ground to left battery and positive to starter.
> 
> I really feel this will solve your issue


Thanks Rich


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

kimber750 said:


> What fluid is in the plow? -18* is gonna put one hell of a load on the plow motor, especially if you don't have the correct fluid. That is too cold of temp to be running ATF as many guys do.


My RT II doesn't like anything but Boss fluid.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Here's my .02, My one truck was a 4 speed manual ( now it's an auto) I was young and dumb. It had a great stereo and 2 large amps.
Needless to say, many slow passes plowing with the stereo cranked, and then you kill the truck an stuffd it won't start, 'cuz the battery is dead.
Got me the 160 amp alt from Wrangler Power Products out in Oregon. I don't think they are around anymore. Too bad, they had great stuff.
Anyway, what did I learn from this?
The rpm that the rated alt output is measured matters.
The alt output wires are nearly always too small from the factory
The strand count of the wire makes a difference. more, smaller strands are better.
2 batteries wired in series will both go dead if you drain them more then you charge them.
So I installed an isolater between the batteries. Charge wire from alt to isolater, isolater to each battery. All extra power accessories wired to aux battery, other battery wired to starter.
Alt charges both batteries, weak battery can't drain the other one. Truck will always start, well if the truck won't start it won't be because of a dead battery and if it was,
Wrangler even had an in cab switch, so you could switch the relay on the isolater, to run the batteries together if needed (winching, etc).


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Do not wire your batteries in series. You will fire ever electrical component on the truck.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

jonniesmooth said:


> Here's my .02, My one truck was a 4 speed manual ( now it's an auto) I was young and dumb. It had a great stereo and 2 large amps.
> Needless to say, many slow passes plowing with the stereo cranked, and then you kill the truck an stuffd it won't start, 'cuz the battery is dead.
> Got me the 160 amp alt from Wrangler Power Products out in Oregon. I don't think they are around anymore. Too bad, they had great stuff.
> Anyway, what did I learn from this?
> ...


Damn Johnnie I don't want to fly a PLANE I just want to push some snow, HA Thank's


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

kimber750 said:


> Do not wire your batteries in series. You will fire ever electrical component on the truck.


Kimber so what would you do if anything ??????


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## fhafer (Jan 31, 2014)

Two 12 volt batteries on series makes 24 volts...two 12 volt batteries in parallel makes 12 volts at double the amps as long as both batteries are rated the same. Just sayin'.


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## Richh56 (Dec 31, 2017)

Hot to hot both neg to ground. 

Trucks had this set up for 12 years. One 130 am alt and no issues... 

Batteries (second set ) are matching twins

Just saying


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

YooperDog said:


> Kimber so what would you do if anything ??????


I would have battery properly load tested on a cold day and replace if under 70% of rated CCA. Upgrade alternator wire. Test amp draw on plow motor. You can do all the upgrades in the world and it won't fix a plow motor that is on its way out. Learn to move plow when you are on the gas, not when idling. Don't try to lift the snow with the blade or be pushing against a pile while trying to raise the blade. Both of these put extra stress on plow motor.

I plowed for years with a single battery and 100A alternator. Only reason I have to batteries now is because my diesel came with them. We have trucks with plows and electric spreaders running on single battery and stock alternator with no issues.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

kimber750 said:


> I would have battery properly load tested on a cold day and replace if under 70% of rated CCA. Upgrade alternator wire. Test amp draw on plow motor. You can do all the upgrades in the world and it won't fix a plow motor that is on its way out. Learn to move plow when you are on the gas, not when idling. Don't try to lift the snow with the blade or be pushing against a pile while trying to raise the blade. Both of these put extra stress on plow motor.
> 
> I plowed for years with a single battery and 100A alternator. Only reason I have to batteries now is because my diesel came with them. We have trucks with plows and electric spreaders running on single battery and stock alternator with no issues.


Kimber-Man you have a way of responding (honest) and very common sense so even a guy NEW to this can understand and (I appreciate it), I think your right ON
1st. real load test (battery)
2nd. test amp draw on plow motor (it is 20yrs old)
3rd. I will upgrade ALT wire.
4th. be more cautious how my driving (using) 
*** WILL upgrade Alt wire--A.S.A.P.

What size Alt wire should I use ??? Thank You kimber750-semper-fi


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Kimber, I have a good meter, can you say how to check AMP draw on plow motor and what My numbers should be ? Thank's again-hope you don't get tired of my question's.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

I would run a semi truck style battery and make it fit the battery tray you have. It will fit. Its tight and a lot of work but so worth the time invested. How does the plow operate with little to no load? If it has been sitting the plow motor might just need some time running to clean up the brushes and such.

Intime I would upgrade the alt when you have the cash flow and invest in a spare pump relay.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

A four gauge cable should be fine.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

YooperDog said:


> Kimber, I have a good meter, can you say how to check AMP draw on plow motor and what My numbers should be ? Thank's again-hope you don't get tired of my question's.


I am lucky enough to have access to an actual plow pump test stand that has a gauge for amps. As for a multi meter most can only test around a 10A load before blowing fuse of damaging meter. Now there are clamp on amp testers but I haven't used one since I don't have a need to. As for the load every plow is different but I would say anything over 200A when against relief is too much.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

DAFFMOBILEWASH said:


> I would run a semi truck style battery and make it fit the battery tray you have. It will fit. Its tight and a lot of work but so worth the time invested. How does the plow operate with little to no load? If it has been sitting the plow motor might just need some time running to clean up the brushes and such.
> 
> Intime I would upgrade the alt when you have the cash flow and invest in a spare pump relay.


Just put a new pump relay in w/new boss power cables, think this week I will get 4ga cables and do alt wire upgrade---I think from reading I just add a 4ga wire POS & NEG from Alt to Batt.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

kimber750 said:


> I am lucky enough to have access to an actual plow pump test stand that has a gauge for amps. As for a multi meter most can only test around a 10A load before blowing fuse of damaging meter. Now there are clamp on amp testers but I haven't used one since I don't have a need to. As for the load every plow is different but I would say anything over 200A when against relief is too much.


Kimber, thanks-for know this week I'm gonna just add a set of 4ga wires-POS & NEG from ALT to Batt then see the difference, you OK with my plan ?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Run the positive cable from alternator P to battery P. You can run an extra ground, you can never have too many grounds.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Randall Ave said:


> Run the positive cable from alternator P to battery P. You can run an extra ground, you can never have too many grounds.


is it OK to leave OEM POS cable in place and just add the bigger cable to POS side ?? Thanks


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

YooperDog said:


> is it OK to leave OEM POS cable in place and just add the bigger cable to POS side ?? Thanks


Yes. I run a double 00 cable from my alternator to to the battery on top of the factory cable that has the fusible link on it.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

NAPA will custom make any length cable you need in any size all the way up to 4/00


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Ok, guy's I ran a 4ga welding wire from ALT to Battery today and seem's like a big difference--volt reading @ idle is 14.65 and pushed some driveway scraps into hard snow bank and almost NO drag down and dash bell for voltage drop did NOT go off and gauge only dropped the width of needle, still right at 14 volts, have not really plowed yet-but I think it's fine as is, seem's like at idle gauge read's just a touch higher tho, I sure do appreciate you guy's taking time to help out....


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

if you have an alternator rebuild shop near you, they can probably put a higher output stator in it. It is less expensive than a new alternator. One good battery is enough as long as your alternator puts out enough amps.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

EWSplow said:


> if you have an alternator rebuild shop near you, they can probably put a higher output stator in it. It is less expensive than a new alternator. One good battery is enough as long as your alternator puts out enough amps.


My Alt is already the OEM snow prep PKG (136 AMP)


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

YooperDog said:


> My Alt is already the OEM snow prep PKG (136 AMP)


136 is a pretty small alternator. Mine is 180


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

I think my 3/4 ton trucks have 190. My jeep has 160.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

ktfbgb said:


> 136 is a pretty small alternator. Mine is 180


well If or when my alt is bad I'll go bigger, but stock O.E.M. Alt on my truck is only 116amp, so it's better than stock without PlowPrep option.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

YooperDog said:


> well If or when my alt is bad I'll go bigger, but stock O.E.M. Alt on my truck is only 116amp, so it's better than stock without PlowPrep option.


True. But if it cant keep up, then its not big enough.


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## Richh56 (Dec 31, 2017)

Finally got around to taking a photo of my twin batteries and set up

I have two Duralast 1000 amp at 32 degrees each. 850 cold cranking amps each. The heavy duty blue cable run from the positive post to the other positive. Then the negative runs from One battery directly to another. This makes both batteries work in unison as one big battery. My truck has 12 volts and 200 amps of power. I have a 130 amp alternator which is charging my system at 14.6. I have all the power in the world. My lights don't Dim when I'm moving my blade my gauges don't start beeping and ringing.

I have about $400 invested. The right side battery tray. 50 bucks. The batters are 166.00 each and then the cables which I used very big welding cable.

Flawless system

View attachment 176542


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

Richh56 said:


> Finally got around to taking a photo of my twin batteries and set up
> 
> I have two Duralast 1000 amp at 32 degrees each. 850 cold cranking amps each. The heavy duty blue cable run from the positive post to the other positive. Then the negative runs from One battery directly to another. This makes both batteries work in unison as one big battery. My truck has 12 volts and 200 amps of power. I have a 130 amp alternator which is charging my system at 14.6. I have all the power in the world. My lights don't Dim when I'm moving my blade my gauges don't start beeping and ringing.
> 
> ...


Rich, I stopped a couple days ago and had my interstate batt load tested (3yrs old) and it was border line bad,,put in the biggest one interstate makes with 150RC & 1000CA, barley fit, but plowed a driveway the next day and worked like it's supposed to, NO more dash bells or any problem, checked for draw to be safe and no draws, so unless I ever plowed more than 2-3 driveways at a time I'll run it with 1 batt, would go 2 if needed, Thanks


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## giggity (Oct 25, 2013)

I've always had good luck running a deep cycle marine battery, volt gauge barely moves now


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

giggity said:


> I've always had good luck running a deep cycle marine battery, volt gauge barely moves now


giggity, I was really considering a deep cycle, but were I had batt tested, they happened to have interstate and I really wanted a NON sealed batt, I've alway's argued that a lot of sealed batt go bad because of being low on water, years ago had a guy who was in the batt MGF buss and said 80% of batteries sitting as cores were nothing wrong with them (except being low on water) and they had 2 huge interstate batt there 1000cca-850cca @ 0 temp and 150 RC (reserve capacity) most only have 110-125 RC. my set up now is like a total diff truck and plow (works proper) I did run a 4ga extra wire from alt to batt a few days before change. had to use shops dremmel tool and modify plastic batt box real quick-its a big dude.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

A truck battery is built for way more abuse than the interstate you installed. Best part is they are always in stock at 24 hour truck stops and about $100.


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## YooperDog (Dec 28, 2017)

DAFFMOBILEWASH said:


> A truck battery is built for way more abuse than the interstate you installed. Best part is they are always in stock at 24 hour truck stops and about $100.


what do you consider a TRUCK battery??? you sure would not get this battery in ANY car-unless you put it in trunk with long cables, looked at a lot of batteries and have not noticed any labeled as TRUCK battery and you won't buy the Interstate I bought for $100. try $165.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

YooperDog said:


> what do you consider a TRUCK battery??? you sure would not get this battery in ANY car-unless you put it in trunk with long cables, looked at a lot of batteries and have not noticed any labeled as TRUCK battery and you won't buy the Interstate I bought for $100. try $165.


He's talking about a battery labeled for semi truck/coach/bus use. They are different than your interstate battery and are around $100. Just because something costs more doesn't mean it's better. I've never been a fan of interstate.

I like AGM batteries. I don't really buy into the whole sealed non sealed thing. My truck is for business. So is my tractor. I replace the batteries long before they start to go bad. They are on a 2-3 year replacement rotation so I never get to test that theory.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

YooperDog said:


> what do you consider a TRUCK battery??? you sure would not get this battery in ANY car-unless you put it in trunk with long cables, looked at a lot of batteries and have not noticed any labeled as TRUCK battery and you won't buy the Interstate I bought for $100. try $165.


He's referring to a #31 series battery. I keep them in stock. Price is cheaper because of them being mass produced cause almost every class 6 and up truck uses the same battery.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

Yep a series #31 will drop right into the old battery tray. Just have to a little fab work on the wires and hold downs. This battery will fit in 3rd gen trucks too. Had two in my 06 Cummins truck. After 8 years of ownership never plugged it in once. Always started and never an issue with power or amp draw.


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