# Building a new sand shed.



## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

I have added 10 commercial accounts, to go with the 3 I had. All will require sanding after each event. So, I need a barn / shed to keep at least 40 yards in under cover.

What mistakes do I want to avoid?

My idea is a 16' x 20' structure, shed roof length ways with metal roofing. 
2' x 2' x 4' concrete blocks to form a containment box 2' tall, and 10' wooden walls on that. 2x6 hemlock planking on the inside to form the containment walls above the concrete
12' opening, wide enough for a tri axle to back through, 2' walls either side of the opening for structural support. (Thus making it 16' wide)
I have this idea that I can hinge the roof, so it can be lifted up for sand delivery. A series of pullys and 5/16" cable and a boat winch to raise it.
I only want this crazy idea because I do not want to ferry the sand into the shed one small tractor bucket @ a time every delivery.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Lost me with cable.....u going shovel the snow off the roof 1st?

Have the base higher then surrounding ground


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

You're over complicating it. Just build a pole barn, and pave the floor. Make it big enough to hold double what you think you'll use next season, and tall enough for a live bottom to deliver. Sliding barn door tracks are cheap too. Amazingly I found an old commercial garage door opener and now just push a button to open and close.


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## Defcon 5 (Mar 20, 2014)

Nice pole barn.....But, that might be a wee bit more than he might want to spend....




Concrete blocks with wood sides and a roof higher in front and sloped towards the back will work just fine.....

Have deliverys dumped in the entrance and push the Salt/ Sand into the bin....


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## Defcon 5 (Mar 20, 2014)

Buswell Forest;1802552 said:


> I have added 10 commercial accounts, to go with the 3 I had. All will require sanding after each event. So, I need a barn / shed to keep at least 40 yards in under cover.
> 
> What mistakes do I want to avoid?
> 
> ...


I would also go at least two blocks high on the containment wall....Maybe even three....One oops with the loader bucket and you replacing some of that Hemlock....


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## SnowGuy73 (Apr 7, 2003)

Mr.Markus;1802556 said:


> You're over complicating it. Just build a pole barn, and pave the floor. Make it big enough to hold double what you think you'll use next season, and tall enough for a live bottom to deliver. Sliding barn door tracks are cheap too. Amazingly I found an old commercial garage door opener and now just push a button to open and close.


Agreed, nice set up!


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## RLM (Jan 12, 2006)

Go wider & deeper. I had the same thought wanting about 40 ton capacity (a flowboy load & a little reserve). My bin is 12x20, I currently tarp the pile... It sucks but works, it works but if the driver is off your screwed. As far as "pushing it back" it doesn't work, my 873 bobcat couldn't do it at least when one driver didn't back into bin far enough. I would go 20 x 24. At least that's what I'm going to expand to. Right now I have 6x6 posts 4' on center with 2x6 walls. My plan is to go to 3 mafia block tall walls, with a coverall.


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

was only $25000 for 40x60x14 built by a meninite fellow and his sons, put extra poles for the side weight distribution....basically how they build fertilizer bins


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Defcon 5;1802584 said:


> Nice pole barn.....But, that might be a wee bit more than he might want to spend....
> 
> Concrete blocks with wood sides and a roof higher in front and sloped towards the back will work just fine.....
> 
> Have deliverys dumped in the entrance and push the Salt/ Sand into the bin....


This one is built over the original, which was similar to what the op is describing. Just pointing out that it is easier and cheaper to do right the first time. Costs only go up.


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

my barn


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## Italiano67 (Feb 16, 2005)

If the driver screws up and dumps forward of the back wall its no big deal. 5 minutes of pushing sideways on the pile until you can reach half of the back of the salt pile. From there its 5 minutes of stacking and bucketing.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

leolkfrm;1802885 said:


> my barn
> 
> View attachment 135724


Looks great, I like the colour.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

I want to hinge the roof to avoid 3 hours of phauking around with the 1710 Ford tractor. I will be on hand for all deliveries, and will be certain he backs all the way in. The roof will be sloped @ a 10:1 pitch, and will be new steel. It should slide the snow right off without issue. I figure 4 pullies in series with a large boat trailer crank will be more than enough to lift it, and I will anchor the first pully 30' up in a big pine tree behind the shed. If the crank is still out gunned, I will just use my truck.
I only have the 13 sand accounts, and maybe 4 or 5 more if we get a really bad ice event. I do not foresee needing more than 40 yards as a baseline. When I get down to 20, I will make a call.
Also, I do not have the space or money to build bigger. As it is, I need a variance from the planning board for this one. 35' set back rule. Not willing to give up what little useable open space I have. It's going on my property line, one way or another.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

I like the paved floor Idea. And I might use 3x3x3 blocks for the base.


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## jrs.landscaping (Nov 18, 2012)

Are you buying pre mixed salt sand?


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

I didn't plan on it, but maybe. I thought I would add salt by the bag as I load the sand.


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## fendt716 (Jun 11, 2013)

go 3 block high on side walls and 4 or 5 high on rear wall so you can pile higher on the back wall.if you pave the floor put 2 inch pitch in for ever 10 feet of length so water gets out works perfertly in our 60 footer. why not a coverall building? make the door 14 feet wide any narrower is a accident wating to happen. trust me been there done that. fixing narrow doors cost money and time.2x2x6 blocks will work fine.


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## jrs.landscaping (Nov 18, 2012)

Buswell Forest;1803022 said:


> I didn't plan on it, but maybe. I thought I would add salt by the bag as I load the sand.


So you'll still have 3 hours of tractor work mixing the salt with sand. I think that whole raise the roof idea is a little over the top for a salt shed FWIW.


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## Italiano67 (Feb 16, 2005)

The cheapest and effective building I have found and have had two of them are steel car ports mounted on concrete blocks. Place the blocks and order any size you need or height and they will come and install them right there. They will have it up in 3-4 hours and it looks good, is durable. You can have the sides and back with steel or put your own on. My barn holds 50 ton and was under 2 grand. Plus you can take it down and move it pretty easy if need be.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Italiano67;1803048 said:


> The cheapest and effective building I have found and have had two of them are steel car ports mounted on concrete blocks. Place the blocks and order any size you need or height and they will come and install them right there. They will have it up in 3-4 hours and it looks good, is durable. You can have the sides and back with steel or put your own on. My barn holds 50 ton and was under 2 grand. Plus you can take it down and move it pretty easy if need be.


Don't think green bay sees hurricanes to often......

Good luck with a hinged roof.....


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## Italiano67 (Feb 16, 2005)

I don't know what the heck a hurricane and a steel car port have to do with each other. The car ports are rated for any area of the country and are warrantied. They anchor them down to the concrete blocks so they are just as strong there as on they are on the ground. Mine have made it through every winter here unscathed and zero rust. Find me a cheaper and nicer looking alternative. A pole barn or hoop building wouldn't fare well in a freaking hurricane either.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

U never seen hurricane damage.

My point is the structure has to be built to standards of the area its used in.

No need to get pissy. I highly doubt he'll get building permits without architectural plans.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

jrs.landscaping;1803040 said:


> So you'll still have 3 hours of tractor work mixing the salt with sand. I think that whole raise the roof idea is a little over the top for a salt shed FWIW.


I mean each time I load the sander. Toss a bag on the end of the pile, mix it in, and load. But, if pre mixed salt and sand is available for less than a mortgage payment, I will just do that.
The hinged roof thing will work, but the walking floor thing is a better idea.
My log trucker happens to own a live floor trailer...


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

1olddogtwo;1803105 said:


> U never seen hurricane damage.
> 
> My point is the structure has to be built to standards of the area its used in.
> 
> No need to get pissy. I highly doubt he'll get building permits without architectural plans.


LOL! Architectural plans? This is not a metropolitan area. They can not deny me a building permit. But they can deny me a variance. Not that I give any phaucks about it. I will build it where and as I want. I have lived in this house every day of my 46 years, and have lived here 2x longer than any member of my town government. And, this house is older than every other home. Been here since before Lincoln was a senator. They can eat me. I will not be told by anyone I have to build my sand barn in the middle of my lawn or my garden.
I have 1.3 acres here, and it is a pie shape. A 35' set back limits me to a triangle 100' to a side.


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## DKG (Feb 3, 2008)

I think you might want to reconsider the mixing the salt in prior to loading your spreader, the main reason the salt is in the sand is to prevent the sand from freezing rock solid in the pile. If you know the trucker, and he is close by, this is what I do. I dump 1 bucket of salt in the bottem of the truckers tandem, he goes and gets a load of sand, when he returns I put another bucket or 2 on top of the load. When the load is dumped the salt mixes in a ribbon effect. I then move the sand/salt mix to my storage lean to as it is not tall enough for the truck to dump into.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

DKG;1803239 said:


> I think you might want to reconsider the mixing the salt in prior to loading your spreader, the main reason the salt is in the sand is to prevent the sand from freezing rock solid in the pile. If you know the trucker, and he is close by, this is what I do. I dump 1 bucket of salt in the bottem of the truckers tandem, he goes and gets a load of sand, when he returns I put another bucket or 2 on top of the load. When the load is dumped the salt mixes in a ribbon effect. I then move the sand/salt mix to my storage lean to as it is not tall enough for the truck to dump into.


Good call. I figured to do it like my friend does it, but now I remember he added a bag every few scoops as he put it into his storage barn...derrp!
I will do it your way if it is not available pre mixed. My customers don't really want salt so much as sand, so just enough to stop it from freezing is all I need anyway..


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## ponyboy (Dec 19, 2006)

Double up rear wall blocks


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