# Best Gas motor in a 3/4-1 ton plow truck.



## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Looking for opinions on the best power reliability I'm general gas motor plowing. Consider all to be high mileage 150k+


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## White_Gold11 (Jan 4, 2016)

Ha Good luck with this discussion.. Chevy 2500 6.0l is the most popular and I believe the most reliable gas motor and trans for plowing. 66% of people on here or more would gladly disagree. But nonetheless my 2c


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Oh boy. So many variables. I'm a believer in there is no substitute for cubic inches. Now I would go with a Ford V10. But if I could I would have a Ford 460, carbureted, with an Allison transmission. With 4:56 rears.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Well, it was supposed to have a poll bit for some reason I don't see it.

So the choices are

1- pre05 5.4
2- 05+ 5.4
3- pre 05 6.8
4- 05+ 6.8
5- 6.2
6- 6.0 vortec
7- 8.1


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## Ryan03 (Dec 8, 2006)

I vote for the 6.0 liter vortec after 2007 since those came with the 6L80 trans.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Ryan03 said:


> I vote for the 6.0 liter Vortec after 2007 since those came with the 6L80 trans.


Thank you I don't know a lot about the chevy so this helps me out. Kinda like the pre 05 ford and having leaf spring up front and the 4r100 and less power.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

I’ve had and now have the 8.1 with the Allison. One of the best setups!!!


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## Avalanche 2500 (Dec 31, 2015)

I vote # 7..8.1 l 496cu/ 4.10 rear/ mpg 8-9 ? Towed 2 sleds to Maine got 11.5 mpg. But a lot of power! to push/tow lowblue: Although light use. Not to mention a 37 gal. gas tank... She passes every thing but a Gas Station !!


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## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

For a back up, I wouldn't even let mpg be put into the equation.

This will not be your daily driver, but you will want to drive it on a consistent basis and not let it just rot. That being the case, assume it will only be used for plowing and hauling your trailers. How heavy are your trailers? Would a v10 benefit you? They all have proven track records pushing snow, so I'd look at what else you'll possibly use it for.

IMO, I would just find the best deal, on the best truck, and go with it regardless of the motor. With trucks as old as what you're looking at (I drive one as a daily driver also) you have to just know going into it that you will eventually have to throw money at it. That being said, look at what is involved with engine work (ie ford v10 has to have cab removed to work on a lot of things with the motor).

Like I said though, find a good deal, and don't look back. Make money with it, and send it to pasture when it's life is finished.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

JMHConstruction said:


> For a back up, I wouldn't even let mpg be put into the equation.
> 
> This will not be your daily driver, but you will want to drive it on a consistent basis and not let it just rot. That being the case, assume it will only be used for plowing and hauling your trailers. How heavy are your trailers? Would a v10 benefit you? They all have proven track records pushing snow, so I'd look at what else you'll possibly use it for.
> 
> ...


Your responses always seem so logical. I would say 8k would be what it would be pulling. Its hard for me to pull the trigger I know I have to have a back up for plowing I have taken on way to much to not have one. As far as mowing goes for next year I will be needing to start thinking about a second crew but if I can hold off one more year I would like to do so.

The ideal situation is, in my opinion, is find a 6.2 for a good price but this is proving to be harder then I thought. So then it brings me to the 5.4 which I feel like would be fine for snow but would not like pulling 8-10k. 
So that makes me say well a V10 has more power and its probably close on fuel mileage between the 2. Shoot I don't know.


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## Ryan03 (Dec 8, 2006)

I would stay away from well used 5.4 Ford's unless you know for certain the truck was properly maintained over the course of it's life. Lots of cam phaser issues, as well as hyd chain tensioner issues for timing chain. Many occurrences of these issues, but not all ,are attributed to improper engine oil/oil change intervals

.I have a 2011 5.4 with 110k on it in my wife's Expedition that we bought new, and has been maintained by me for it's entire life. It has been trouble free. It gets a Motorcraft FL 820s oil filter and 5w30 Mobil One one every 6k, and has since new. It's still as quiet and noise free as the day we drove it off of the lot. Proper oil change Intervals and good oil is key on a vvt 5.4. At a minimum the Motorcraft syn blend is required..

I've seen and worked on alot of 5.4 Ford's that maintenance was neglected on, and self destructed.


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## PLOWMAN45 (Jul 2, 2003)

i like my 6.0 vortec motor


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## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

JT&SONS said:


> Your responses always seem so logical.


Don't let me fool you!:laugh:


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

I personally have never run out of “power” while plowing snow. 

Traction... yep, but power... no.

That being said, I would worry more about what is coupled to said motor to get the power to the ground that the power plant.

If I had to make a choice on those, I would go with the 8.1, not due to the motor, but due to the fact that is backed with an Allision.


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## C.green (Oct 29, 2017)

I've plowed in pre 05 5.4 and 05+ 5.4 never had any issues with either and never ran out of power on either. This year I added a 11 6.2 that should be beastly. Like I've been reading on here. Look for the best bang for your buck find a good deal and pull the trigger.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

We run all Fords (no particular reason other than get good deals on them) but one is a 6.0L, one is a 5.4L and the other two have 6.2L and never had any issues with the gas motors or trannys. The 17 is a F350 with 430 gearing and the fuel mileage is crazy bad, last year they averaged 4-5mpg and the 16 is a F250 (I drive) with 373 gearing and averaged right around 7mpg. Both of those always have weight in them from a V box and salt and the 5.4L truck has a dump bed insert and about 500lbs of ballast All the gassers are always between 1/4 and 1/2 tank by the end of the night, the diesel is usually still 3/4 full and it does a lot more plowing and driving. Hope this helps.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Do you notice any difference in plowing capability with the 430s?


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## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

What's the fuel mileage empty, do you know?


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

Randall Ave said:


> Do you notice any difference in plowing capability with the 430s?


I've only plowed in that truck a couple times. It's a F350 1 ton dump with a 9.6 XV2 and compare to my truck (F250 with XLS) just seems to suck down more fuel. I know towing with the 430's are night and day compare to the 373's in my truck.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

JMHConstruction said:


> What's the fuel mileage empty, do you know?


The dump is rarely empty, it's either towing or hauling but towing our trailer around town it gets 6.2-7mpg and the newer F250 gets around 11mpg and when we tow our travel trailer (37ft 9klbs) we get right around 7-8mpg


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

In my experience if your going to be towing a lot ALL of the gas motors will work ok but it's the damn exhaust manifold bolts that are their weak spots, they all seem to fail right after warranty runs out and every other year after costing you, well me about 1k every time! Diesels don't have that issue


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

Randall Ave said:


> Do you notice any difference in plowing capability with the 430s?


Our next truck is going to have 430's in it if we buy another gasser. Probably going to put the 2016 into service next summer and someone else in it for plowing and buy a new personal/plowing truck but might look into a diesel only because we want a 5th wheel camper.


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

JT&SONS said:


> Thank you I don't know a lot about the chevy so this helps me out. Kinda like the pre 05 ford and having leaf spring up front and the 4r100 and less power.


This is simply not accurate. Pre 05 2valve, post 05 3valve Ford.
Ive had 2 2valve 5.4, 2 3valve 5.4, 1 2valve 6.8 and my neighbor has 1 2valve 6.8 and 2 3valve 6.8. In every case the 2valve have substantially more power then the 3valve counterpart. Getting more miles and less problems from the 2valves. Spit a spark plug 1 time on a 2 valve. The 3valves had the cam phaser problem, my mechanic puts an oil additive in the 3valves. The manifold bolts do suck.

Having said all that I vote 6.2 it's just a superior engine to the older Fords.
I'm not comparing to other brands I dont run them.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Freshwater said:


> This is simply not accurate. Pre 05 2valve, post 05 3valve Ford.
> Ive had 2 2valve 5.4, 2 3valve 5.4, 1 2valve 6.8 and my neighbor has 1 2valve 6.8 and 2 3valve 6.8. In every case the 2valve have substantially more power then the 3valve counterpart. Getting more miles and less problems from the 2valves. Spit a spark plug 1 time on a 2 valve. The 3valves had the cam phaser problem, my mechanic puts an oil additive in the 3valves. The manifold bolts do suck.
> 
> Having said all that I vote 6.2 it's just a superior engine to the older Fords.
> I'm not comparing to other brands I dont run them.


On paper, the pre 05 has less HP & Torq not sure with real-life experiences. That's why I made the thread.


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

JT&SONS said:


> On paper, the pre 05 has less HP & Torq not sure with real-life experiences. That's why I made the thread.


Not yelling at you at all. I agree, according to the spec on paper it shouldn't be that way, but it is that way. Try to swing for something a little newer with the 6.2. My 6.2 is more powerful than both the older 6.8, and I'm also getting better gas mileage than the 5.4.


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## Hoshiwaa15 (Jan 4, 2017)

For reliability there is no comparison to the gm 6.0 with either 4l80 or 6l90 transmision, either combination is bullet proof for 250k. Have owned many and with regular routine maintenance none have giving me any more problems then a waterpump or an alternator. There is definitely more to be disired in the power department and fuel milage but I don't do much towing over 7k lbs and I don't do it often or care to be the first one up the hill so the power tradeoff for reliability works for me, might now work for the next guy.

Edit: bullet proof besides exhaust manifold bolts lol, you'll be doing those by 150k


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## maknbacn (Dec 1, 2015)

I've had an 05 V10 for 3 years and roughly 35k. Used for towing 5k lawn trailer, four-wheelers, Bobcat, & plowing. Not a single issue whatsoever.


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## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

Did you ever decide between those few in the other thread?

Just buy the cleanest truck you can, and don't look back. If something happens, just fix it. That's the way of life with any work truck. You never know why the last guy sold it. It could have been because of an upgrade, or because of issues. A lot of times, if they took care of the trucks appearance, they took care of the mechanical things as well.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

JMHConstruction said:


> Did you ever decide between those few in the other thread?
> 
> Just buy the cleanest truck you can, and don't look back. If something happens, just fix it. That's the way of life with any work truck. You never know why the last guy sold it. It could have been because of an upgrade, or because of issues. A lot of times, if they took care of the trucks appearance, they took care of the mechanical things as well.


I have not going to look at a 03 2500HD 6.0 with 108k plow on the truck POS plow but none the less. If the truck doesn't need manifolds yet I'm probably going to buy it.

I've been holding out for a good deal on a 450 dump but can't wait much longer. Or I'm going to be caught with my *&[email protected] in my hand.


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## JMHConstruction (Aug 22, 2011)

JT&SONS said:


> I have not going to look at a 03 2500HD 6.0 with 108k plow on the truck POS plow but none the less. If the truck doesn't need manifolds yet I'm probably going to buy it.
> 
> I've been holding out for a good deal on a 450 dump but can't wait much longer. Or I'm going to be caught with my *&[email protected] in my hand.


*&[email protected] in your hand is for the other sites....

Not that you should wait any longer, but I would avoid getting a truck that already has a plow. We abuse the hell out of our trucks enough, we don't need the previous owners to help us out any. For a backup it might not be too bad, but if the plow is beat to hell, all that was transferred to the truck. Just something to think about


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Freshwater said:


> This is simply not accurate. Pre 05 2valve, post 05 3valve Ford.
> Ive had 2 2valve 5.4, 2 3valve 5.4, 1 2valve 6.8 and my neighbor has 1 2valve 6.8 and 2 3valve 6.8. In every case the 2valve have substantially more power then the 3valve counterpart. Getting more miles and less problems from the 2valves. Spit a spark plug 1 time on a 2 valve. The 3valves had the cam phaser problem, my mechanic puts an oil additive in the 3valves. The manifold bolts do suck.
> 
> Having said all that I vote 6.2 it's just a superior engine to the older Fords.
> I'm not comparing to other brands I dont run them.


What oil additive does he use?


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## lazyike (Dec 23, 2005)

I have 2 Chevy trucks 2001 with 8.1 Allison. 1 has 195000 miles the other 154000 miles, I have never had a transmission or engine problem with either one. Now front end parts is another story, chevys ifs for plowing sucks. But if I was to buy another gas truck to plow it would be the 8.1 with Allison.


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## CELandscapes (Dec 10, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> I have not going to look at a 03 2500HD 6.0 with 108k plow on the truck POS plow but none the less. If the truck doesn't need manifolds yet I'm probably going to buy it.
> 
> Even if it needs manifolds that would be a good buy. I've bought two that needed the manifolds done. Less than $500 to have the shop replace them.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Randall Ave said:


> What oil additive does he use?


Sulfur


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

lazyike said:


> I have 2 Chevy trucks 2001 with 8.1 Allison. 1 has 195000 miles the other 154000 miles, I have never had a transmission or engine problem with either one. Now front end parts is another story, chevys ifs for plowing sucks. But if I was to buy another gas truck to plow it would be the 8.1 with Allison.


To bad they stopped putting them in to trucks in 06...


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Philbilly2 said:


> I personally have never run out of "power" while plowing snow.


Had a '90 W350 with a throttle body 360...ran out of power frequently. What a flaming POS.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Mark Oomkes said:


> Had a '90 W350 with a throttle body 360...ran out of power frequently. What a flaming POS.


My bad...

I have never ran out of power on a truck built in this decade...


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Philbilly2 said:


> My bad...
> 
> I have never ran out of power on a truck built in this century...


Fixed it...


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Ok, so a little shift in gears. The dang 2500hd sold in one day so I missed it.

I have found a Kodiak c4500 90k on it im highly thinking about grabbing this truck. It will go fast im sure. The problem is It's huge. I still feel like it gives me room for growth. I know how valuable a dump will be in all seasons just not sure based on size and versatility if its a good fit for me. What's yalls experience with one are they even remotely versatile?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

JT&SONS said:


> Ok, so a little shift in gears. The dang 2500hd sold in one day so I missed it.
> 
> I have found a Kodiak c4500 90k on it im highly thinking about grabbing this truck. It will go fast im sure. The problem is It's huge. I still feel like it gives me room for growth. I know how valuable a dump will be in all seasons just not sure based on size and versatility if its a good fit for me. What's yalls experience with one are they even remotely versatile?
> 
> View attachment 185811


Duramax truck or no?

Not sure what your drivers license status is, but might be worth looking into if you can LEGALLY drive it? What is the GVWR on the door tag? What class license do you carry?


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## Defcon 5 (Mar 20, 2014)

Philbilly2 said:


> Duramax truck or no?
> 
> Not sure what your drivers license status is, but might be worth looking into if you can LEGALLY drive it? What is the GVWR on the door tag? What class license do you carry?


Those are a lot of questions......


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Philbilly2 said:


> Duramax truck or no?
> 
> Not sure what your drivers license status is, but might be worth looking into if you can LEGALLY drive it? What is the GVWR on the door tag? What class license do you carry?


It would take a C endorsement thanks for pointing that out. That's pretty careless of me. I used to drive trucks much larger but since it was a family farm I didn't need the endorsement. I took it for granite i could just drive anything 26k. Not that I couldn't get it just don't have the time to mess with it now.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

JT&SONS said:


> Ok, so a little shift in gears. The dang 2500hd sold in one day so I missed it.
> 
> I have found a Kodiak c4500 90k on it im highly thinking about grabbing this truck. It will go fast im sure. The problem is It's huge. I still feel like it gives me room for growth. I know how valuable a dump will be in all seasons just not sure based on size and versatility if its a good fit for me. What's yalls experience with one are they even remotely versatile?
> 
> View attachment 185811


Our top kick 5500 turns on dime. Very impressive for the size of the truck.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Only problem we have with the 5500 is reverse, painfully slow in reverse.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

JT&SONS said:


> It would take a C endorsement thanks for pointing that out. That's pretty careless of me. I used to drive trucks much larger but since it was a family farm I didn't need the endorsement. I took it for granite i could just drive anything 26k. Not that I couldn't get it just don't have the time to mess with it now.


What farm class did you carry then? If you still have it, then you should be able to switch it to a CDL with just a written test at the DMV.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

kimber750 said:


> Only problem we have with the 5500 is reverse, painfully slow in reverse.


Even the pickups with Allison 1000 is stupid slow in reverse. 12 mph at the rev limiter... 

Good thing about that is I have never heard of anyone taking out reverse in an Allison.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Philbilly2 said:


> Even the pickups with Allison 1000 is stupid slow in reverse. 12 mph at the rev limiter...
> 
> Good thing about that is I have never heard of anyone taking out reverse in an Allison.


 Phil left you a PM when you get time.


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## rizzoa13 (Oct 20, 2018)

I run 2 C7500s and like Kimber said they turn better than anything I've ever driven. We plow tight wawas and have no problem. The 4500 and 5500 are lower the the ground but the 6500 and 7500 sit much higher giving better sight lines. You might want to look into a 6500 if your serious about a Kodiak.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Philbilly2 said:


> What farm class did you carry then? If you still have it, then you should be able to switch it to a CDL with just a written test at the DMV.


I was allowed to drive or haul anything up to 26k lbs with just a standard endorsement. I'm not sure if that rule has changed I mainly ran a tandem axle grain truck. When My uncle went to using semis I moved to running the auger wagon or combine. I haven't ran a tandem axle grain truck for 17 years now things might be different now.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Philbilly2 said:


> Even the pickups with Allison 1000 is stupid slow in reverse. 12 mph at the rev limiter...
> 
> Good thing about that is I have never heard of anyone taking out reverse in an Allison.


 Been there done that, just bogs down on ya.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

So ironically I just got a phone call from my cousin thats my uncles son the farmers. He dabkes in anything.

So anyway I had called my uncle to see if he new of any trucks for sale and he must of called my cousin who I guess now has a dealer liscenses. Long story short he called and said to meet him at the auction there are few trucks coming through this morning.

2 F250
1F350
5 2500hd
1 05 cummings 160k miles

The dodge has me interested obviously I don't have time to research the truck I know that the 05 is highly regarded as the best diesel made but I've also heard the tranny is as reliable as a none bulletproof 6.0.

Any advice when it comes to the 2005 quad cab 2500 with the 5.9 cummings?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)




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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Will ya just buy something already.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> Will ya just buy something already.


I wish it was that easy. Maybe today headed to the auction now with cash in hand.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Randall Ave said:


> Will ya just buy something already.


And all the people said: AMEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Randall Ave said:


> Will ya just buy something already.


LMFAO!!!! :laugh:


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> I was allowed to drive or haul anything up to 26k lbs with just a standard endorsement. I'm not sure if that rule has changed I mainly ran a tandem axle grain truck. When My uncle went to using semis I moved to running the auger wagon or combine. I haven't ran a tandem axle grain truck for 17 years now things might be different now.


I might be wrong (no I'm not) but a tandem would be way over 26,000lbs.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

LapeerLandscape said:


> I might be wrong (no I'm not) but a tandem would be way over 26,000lbs.


lol... your leading the witness... :laugh:


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> I wish it was that easy. Maybe today headed to the auction now with cash in hand.


There you go and buy one too, not everyday somebody gets to go to a dealer auction only.

Just allow for reconditioning, your Cousin should have a black book which is true wholesale pricing or a market report. Make sure you buy under the green light so you get to drive it. If you find something wrong with it you can arbitrate it if it is not minor.

If you do see one you like with a yellow or red light for some reason if the owner tells everybody drive it if you don't like it park it and don't pay for it is okay to. Sometime vehicles are okay even with a red light, they got rules over certain miles has to go to the block with a red light. I had a rule to only buy green light cars.

I use to bring 30 or 40 trades ins every week when I was involved in my Family franchise. They may have different lines for certain year and lights. Oh and if you see a yellow light this means it has a announced defect.

Good luck and you need to bring one home.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

LapeerLandscape said:


> I might be wrong (no I'm not) but a tandem would be way over 26,000lbs.


56,000, 62,000 Lbs. my guess. I got a Tri Axle out back I could take a look at.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

FredG said:


> There you go and buy one too, not everyday somebody gets to go to a dealer auction only.
> 
> Just allow for reconditioning, your Cousin should have a black book which is true wholesale pricing or a market report. Make sure you buy under the green light so you get to drive it. If you find something wrong with it you can arbitrate it if it is not minor.
> 
> ...


First time ever going to one. So this will be new to me. Just pulled in.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

LapeerLandscape said:


> I might be wrong (no I'm not) but a tandem would be way over 26,000lbs.


I know when we loaded the truck we kept the load under 26k. It was 17 years ago. But I'm guessing total weight in th 2 ton was 23 24k in the tandem 32 34k

When I loaded the tricks I would put 19k or so onbtheb2 tons and 24 or so on the tandem


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> First time ever going to one. So this will be new to me. Just pulled in.


Don't get all excited you will want every truck in there being your first time. No what you should be looking at within your budget.

Wait till you see them bring 5 to 6K lower than you find at a lot, you will really pop um. :laugh:


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

JT one more thing. Most dealers will not pay no more than you can get financed. So if you have a book and know what you can get financed you know the bidding will end soon. It's a big game if you know what your doing. So what I'm saying if the bank will finance 20K you want to be 5 to 6k under that. This will leave money for reconditioning and a profit.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Randall Ave said:


> 56,000, 62,000 Lbs. my guess. I got a Tri Axle out back I could take a look at.


Most likely a gravel box.

He is talking about farm trucks with grain bodies... typically aluminum

A tandem grain box 18ft truck tares around 20k lbs... single rear grain box (smaller than 18ft) tares around 16k if I recall correct?


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

LapeerLandscape said:


> I might be wrong (no I'm not) but a tandem would be way over 26,000lbs.


I've had over 36k in a single axle. May or may not have been slightly overweight.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

JT&SONS said:


> When I loaded the tricks I would put 19k or so onbtheb2 tons and 24 or so on the tandem


19k... That is only 340 bu of corn...







the good old days... my old man had a single axle grain truck back in the 70's that could only hold 180 bu... what a joke... we are pushing 1000 bu on the hopper bottoms now a days and still complaining that aint enough.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

What did you buy at the dealer action?


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Philbilly2 said:


> 19k... That is only 340 bu of corn...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah they use all semis and 12 row equipment now. They farm a little over 25k acres


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

FredG said:


> What did you buy at the dealer action?


Nothing everything I was interested in went for more then I cared to spend.

My cousin its dew to people up here from texas. He said the vehicles in Texas have a hold on the titles few to flooding so people are coming up here and picking up trucks. I laughed cause I thought it was supposed to be the other way around.

Then I picked up pallet of salt since they are calling for 3in Thursday night. I have no plow on yet. So I stop at the ford dealer on the way home and my rear brake rotor snapped. So now I'm at a stand still while they fix it. Plow is getting put on tomorrow night after 5:30 they are staying late to get me taken care of. Back drag will go on later.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Rotor snapped? Pics please.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Caliper broke not rotor.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

It didn't break. I can see whats left of the brake pad hanging out the bottom. Either you didn't notice the brakes dragging, didn't hear the metal on metal grinding or thought they were self changing pads. You broke it.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Randall Ave said:


> Will ya just buy something already.


On this note...if the OP is this indecisive about buying a truck...you better get your poop in a group when the snow hits. Or else it's going to be June and melted by the time you make up your mind to plow or salt or both.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

kimber750 said:


> It didn't break. I can see whats left of the brake pad hanging out the bottom. Either you didn't notice the brakes dragging, didn't hear the metal on metal grinding or thought they were self changing pads. You broke it.


O yeah I knew it needed changed parts were ordered last week. As I was standing at the service desk I got the alert my parts were delivered. How freaking ironic.I didnt no the calpier was bad just thought I needed rotors and pads. What a day. They are going to use my pads and rotors to save me some cash still gonna cost more to have them do it then myself. Was gonna change everything tomorrow. Before I got the plow on.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

They're going to what????

If you're skimping on something as important as brake parts this early in the season...its going to be long winter and expensive tuition at the school of hard knocks for you.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Mark Oomkes said:


> They're going to what????
> 
> If you're skimping on something as important as brake parts this early in the season...its going to be long winter and expensive tuition at the school of hard knocks for you.


How am I skimping I ordered parts from online. I would rather use my BN parts they wanted 150.00 for one rotor I got 2 rotors and pads for 189.00. So what you only put OEM parts on your work trucks?


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> O yeah I knew it needed changed parts were ordered last week. As I was standing at the service desk I got the alert my parts were delivered. How freaking ironic.I didnt no the calpier was bad just thought I needed rotors and pads. What a day. They are going to use my pads and rotors to save me some cash still gonna cost more to have them do it then myself. Was gonna change everything tomorrow. Before I got the plow on.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Why do a job once, when you can do it twice.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

EWSplow said:


> Why do a job once, when you can do it twice.


Might work yourself out of a job.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

JT&SONS said:


> O yeah I knew it needed changed parts were ordered last week. As I was standing at the service desk I got the alert my parts were delivered. How freaking ironic.I didnt no the calpier was bad just thought I needed rotors and pads. What a day. They are going to use my pads and rotors to save me some cash still gonna cost more to have them do it then myself. Was gonna change everything tomorrow. Before I got the plow on.
> 
> View attachment 185866


My point was that had to be making some horrible noises. It should of been driven at all until fixed. Caliper was fine until pad slipped out. Then pistons over extend, break and leak. That is when caliper is done. So either you drive a crap load of miles, ignored months of squeaking brakes or piston/slides seized but brakes should of been smoking. All signs the vehicle should of been parked.


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> How am I skimping I ordered parts from online. I would rather use my BN parts they wanted 150.00 for one rotor I got 2 rotors and pads for 189.00. So what you only put OEM parts on your work trucks?


I cant see the inside rib of the rotor but the outside appears to have lots of metal on it.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

What are ya driving, and I will tell you what I would pay for those rotors. You do not even have the plow mounted yet?


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

kimber750 said:


> My point was that had to be making some horrible noises. It should of been driven at all until fixed. Caliper was fine until pad slipped out. Then pistons over extend, break and leak. That is when caliper is done. So either you drive a crap load of miles, ignored months of squeaking brakes or piston/slides seized but brakes should of been smoking. All signs the vehicle should of been parked.


I can tell you for a fact I take care of my stuff. I also can tell you I didn't hear **** for a warning sign. As soon as I found out it needed pads and rotors I ordered them. So you think I just roll up to my jobs with a truck squawking and making a racket like your implying. Yeah, you got it that's what I do pull up to 500k homes in neighborhoods that are very nice and quit. sounding like a POS. LOL get a clue bro


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> What are ya driving, and I will tell you what I would pay for those rotors. You do not even have the plow mounted yet?


2005 F250 and yes if I should have a bought better then stock I did not I bought OEM replacements from 4wheel parts I figured they would be good. But if not I will send them back but OEM Ford parts cant be any better. I mean about the only thing I could do is go slotted and that didn't make sense. But honestly, I am not one to cut corners I like to buy once and cry once.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Here is what i bought i hope there ok cause the ford dealer said it would take 2 days to get the rotors in.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/power-stop-1-click-oe-replacement-brake-kits-koe1799/_/R-BHKQ-KOE1799


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

JT&SONS said:


> I can tell you for a fact I take care of my stuff. I also can tell you I didn't hear **** for a warning sign. As soon as I found out it needed pads and rotors I ordered them. So you think I just roll up to my jobs with a truck squawking and making a racket like your implying. Yeah, you got it that's what I do pull up to 500k homes in neighborhoods sounding like a POS. LOL get a clue bro


First, I am not your bro. That does not just happen in 20 miles. Looking at length slides pins are extended those pads were shot. So instead of getting the parts local you saved what $100 and cost yourself an extra $500. You messed up, own it. Don't shift blame to shipping, cost or whatever else. Very happy you get to pull up to $500k houses.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Plow truck=non aggressive driving.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I have a shop, that rotor installed I don't get 150.00, I pay around 95.00. The instance you have right now is why we have been saying, you need a backup truck ready to go.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Randall Ave said:


> What are ya driving, and I will tell you what I would pay for those rotors. You do not even have the plow mounted yet?


$65 each for rotors here, $70-80 for pads.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

kimber750 said:


> First, I am not your bro. That does not just happen in 20 miles. Looking at length slides pins are extended those pads were shot. So instead of getting the parts local you saved what $100 and cost yourself an extra $500. You messed up, own it. Don't shift blame to shipping, cost or whatever else. Very happy you get to pull up to $500k houses.


So you always drop into threads from the sky to start **** over something you think you know about? That is what i consider a troll but yet your what some would consider a vet. So it makes it even worse. I honestly could care less what you think.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

kimber750 said:


> $65 each for rotors here, $70-80 for pads.


I don't purchase enough volume like you do, Pads the same price. But I like jobs like that, Home Run!


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> I have a shop, that rotor installed I don't get 150.00, I pay around 95.00. The instance you have right now is why we have been saying, you need a backup truck ready to go.


I agree. So should I send the ones I have back? The Ford dealer my truck is at said 2 days till they will have them.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Randall Ave said:


> I don't purchase enough volume like you do, Pads the same price. But I like jobs like that, Home Run!


I do a ton of Ford brakes. Because the always seize up. Normally slide pins stick, owner says F'it and keeps going then cooks the seals right out of caliper. But I am averaging 50% of list cost on parts.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

JT&SONS said:


> I agree. So should I send the ones I have back? The Ford dealer my truck is at said 2 days till they will have them.


Just get the darn brakes fixed now. Its on the rear, it ain't gonna matter.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

kimber750 said:


> I do a ton of Ford brakes. Because the always seize up. Normally slide pins stick, owner says F'it and keeps going then cooks the seals right out of caliper. But I am averaging 50% of list cost on parts.


My markup is around 38%, depending on the cost. Some of the parts here can get up there, I did a leaf vac over the summer, 25 yard direct drive, snapped the shaft off in the clutch, $5500.00, made $3500.00 on the job, but it sucked.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

JT&SONS said:


> So you always drop into threads from the sky to start **** over something you think you know about? That is what i consider a troll but yet your what some would consider a vet. So it makes it even worse. I honestly could care less what you think.


How do you know what I do or don't know? Keep shifting blame. I happen to be one hell of a mechanic. I have seen this before, I know how it happens. I have even done it before. But I admitted I pushed it to far.

Look familiar?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Randall Ave said:


> My markup is around 38%, depending on the cost. Some of the parts here can get up there, I did a leaf vac over the summer, 25 yard direct drive, snapped the shaft off in the clutch, $5500.00, made $3500.00 on the job, but it sucked.


Pads, calipers and rotors around here will cost you over $1000 around here. Love these kind of jobs, quick and good money.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> Just get the darn brakes fixed now. Its on the rear, it ain't gonna matter.


OK, i did order fronts as well was going to do all of them the fronts are in real good shape just was going to do them anyway.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/power-stop-1-click-oe-replacement-brake-kits-koe1781/_/R-BHKQ-KOE1781


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

kimber750 said:


> How do you know what I do or don't know? Keep shifting blame. I happen to be one hell of a mechanic. I have seen this before, I know how it happens. I have even done it before. But I admitted I pushed it to far.
> 
> Look familiar?
> View attachment 185872
> View attachment 185873


I see nothing wrong with those pics, slap some pads, a block of wood, good for another year.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

kimber750 said:


> Pads, calipers and rotors around here will cost you over $1000 around here. Love these kind of jobs, quick and good money.


All 4?Just curious.

I just had my back brakes done. I knew the rotors had a ridge and needed to be replaced, so when my caliper was sticking, I drove it anyway, more than 20 miles.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

EWSplow said:


> All 4?Just curious.
> 
> I just had my back brakes done. I knew the rotors had a ridge and needed to be replaced, so when my caliper was sticking, I drove it anyway, more than 20 miles.


On a superduty at a dealer that would just the rear axle. Rotors, pads, and calipers.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

EWSplow said:


> All 4?Just curious.
> 
> I just had my back brakes done. I knew the rotors had a ridge and needed to be replaced, so when my caliper was sticking, I drove it anyway, more than 20 miles.


Four wheels, yes, unless its a total disaster. My pickup, its an 04 f-250, it sits a lot. Its getting, on the fronts, calipers, rotors, pads, axle u-joints, axle seals, both wheel bearing assemblies, backing plates, transmission cooler lines, exhaust system, battery, and from what I can see, all rear brakes, and all the E brake parts with backing plates. Now if I had to pay someone like Kimber to do all that. I would be $$$$$.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

kimber750 said:


> On a superduty at a dealer that would just the rear axle. Rotors, pads, and calipers.


Jeepers. I obviously don't go to the dealer.
It was on my Chevy. Rear $520, pads, rotors and calipers. My mechanic is good and he gets me in immediately. He gets quite a bit of biz from me and quite a few referrals.
My ford eats brake calipers for breakfast.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

Randall Ave said:


> Four wheels, yes, unless its a total disaster. My pickup, its an 04 f-250, it sits a lot. Its getting, on the fronts, calipers, rotors, pads, axle u-joints, axle seals, both wheel bearing assemblies, backing plates, transmission cooler lines, exhaust system, battery, and from what I can see, all rear brakes, and all the E brake parts with backing plates. Now if I had to pay someone like Kimber to do all that. I would be $$$$$.


I've seen the pics of your 04.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

EWSplow said:


> Jeepers. I obviously don't go to the dealer.
> It was on my Chevy. Rear $520, pads, rotors and calipers. My mechanic is good and he gets me in immediately. He gets quite a bit of biz from me and quite a few referrals.
> My ford eats brake calipers for breakfast.


They all do. Especially if they sit for any type of extended periods. I pull all my calipers and grease slide pins at beginning of every season. But still only get about two years before something seizes up.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Randall Ave said:


> Four wheels, yes, unless its a total disaster. My pickup, its an 04 f-250, it sits a lot. Its getting, on the fronts, calipers, rotors, pads, axle u-joints, axle seals, both wheel bearing assemblies, backing plates, transmission cooler lines, exhaust system, battery, and from what I can see, all rear brakes, and all the E brake parts with backing plates. Now if I had to pay someone like Kimber to do all that. I would be $$$$$.


I would hook you up. Do not go to dealer for E brake parts. They are insane. Highly suggest new backing plates if you go that far. Also I believe 04 was the year they had two different rear brake setups. Either both calipers behind axle or one behind and one in front of axle.


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## EWSplow (Dec 4, 2012)

kimber750 said:


> They all do. Especially if they sit for any type of extended periods. I pull all my calipers and grease slide pins at beginning of every season. But still only get about two years before something seizes up.


I think another weak link, at least in the rust belt is that flex brake line. they corrode and then fluid can't be released. At least that's been my experience.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

EWSplow said:


> I think another weak link, at least in the rust belt is that flex brake line. they corrode and then fluid can't be released. At least that's been my experience.


They collapse. Probably wear in tear from all the brake work needed.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

JT&SONS said:


> Nothing everything I was interested in went for more then I cared to spend.
> 
> My cousin its dew to people up here from texas. He said the vehicles in Texas have a hold on the titles few to flooding so people are coming up here and picking up trucks. I laughed cause I thought it was supposed to be the other way around.
> 
> Then I picked up pallet of salt since they are calling for 3in Thursday night. I have no plow on yet. So I stop at the ford dealer on the way home and my rear brake rotor snapped. So now I'm at a stand still while they fix it. Plow is getting put on tomorrow night after 5:30 they are staying late to get me taken care of. Back drag will go on later.





JT&SONS said:


> Nothing everything I was interested in went for more then I cared to spend.
> 
> My cousin its dew to people up here from texas. He said the vehicles in Texas have a hold on the titles few to flooding so people are coming up here and picking up trucks. I laughed cause I thought it was supposed to be the other way around.
> 
> Then I picked up pallet of salt since they are calling for 3in Thursday night. I have no plow on yet. So I stop at the ford dealer on the way home and my rear brake rotor snapped. So now I'm at a stand still while they fix it. Plow is getting put on tomorrow night after 5:30 they are staying late to get me taken care of. Back drag will go on later.


Wow, If you weren't happy with pricing at a Dealer only auction you must be really depressed at the dealer. The trucks your looking at at the dealers most likely come from the auction marked up 5 to 6K.

You sure your ready to buy?


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

FredG said:


> Wow, If you weren't happy with pricing at a Dealer only auction you must be really depressed at the dealer. The trucks your looking at at the dealers most likely come from the auction marked up 5 to 6K.
> 
> You sure your ready to buy?


The trucks I went to look at most ended up being beat on. The fords were 6.0s and the dodge had bad blow by. The 2 2500hd ended up being diesels. I guess they don't tell you that beforehand? My price range was 13 to 18k and they sold for 24k+ which was a good price they retailed for 33k just to much for me. That was my first time at one. So I'm not sure if it's normal but There was a total of 12 - 3/4 ton 1 ton trucks in 3hrs I was there. They had some good buys on 1/2 ton trucks. I contemplated on a couple but just don't think a 1/2 ton would be a good choice. He said there should be more trucks next Wednesday I don't know he made it sound like they are hit or miss at these auctions.


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

Randall Ave said:


> What oil additive does he use?


I dont know randall... my 06 started acting funny once, and threw a cam phaser related code. He changed the oil with an additive and it hasn't done it since, been at least 3 years. He uses it every time he changes the oil on my 3 valves now. I'll ask.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

My wifes ride is an 2010 expedition, the cam phasers make noise at idle on hot days. Let me know, thanks.


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## JT&SONS (Jun 17, 2018)

Could it be Rev X


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