# Used plow truck, does this mount look right?



## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

Hey guys I'm new here and am hoping for a bit of input, I just bought a 91 f150 with a plow don't know what brand it's a manual turn with hydraulic lift... My issue is that the mount seems to be underbuilt I could be wrong but when I picked it up he had the bolts(I know not pins) mounted in the front holes I feel that the correct holes would be the rear set I suppose that's why there's an additional ear but it seems to be underbuilt to the rear of the plow mount I guess all I'm looking for is your guys input it's just a $600 plow truck it is nothing special just don't want issues since I have the summer to get it up to par it's for my rural driveway only


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## JustJeff (Sep 9, 2009)

Looks like an old Meyer that he cobbled a mount together for to me.


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

What do you suppose, should I use the rear holes on the mount I feel like that's the proper place for the plow to mount to but it also seems like a major weak spot


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## JustJeff (Sep 9, 2009)

I don't know crap about Meyer plows (if in fact it is a Meyer), but the plow should be mounted so that the A frame sits level with the ground. Whether that means using the front holes or the rear ones. I can't tell by your pictures, but if the spot I circled takes any force from pushing, that looks like the weak spot to me. But I can't tell if there's a spot in front of that that's designed to take the actual pushing force.


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

Yeah that's the problem im having, the a frame is currently sitting level with it being in the front holes and the tere looks way underbuilt the front at least had a little bit of metal to hold on to but it doesn't have the inner ears for the pins so in my opinion it looks like a good way to twist it apart, I'm not a welder but maybe I should just reinforce the heck outta the thing to make it ok


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

Weld a plate here.


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

Keep the plow mounted in the front. Weld another plate to sandwich the plow ears. Kinda like the unused one in the middle is designed. Right now the bolt is the weak link, it's going to bend or snap. That should plow your drive just fine.


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

That's sounds simple enough to me, I'll go ahead and try to make some decent welds on it (not a strong point) but seems like a good plan to get it going...I appreciate you guys giving input I was thinking I should have been using the back mounts and bracing it to use those


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

The reason I wouldn't use the back holes is because it looks like that would effect the raising and lowering of the plow. Kinda hard to tell from the pics though.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

I'll toss my 2-cents in this ring. I know it's a 600.oo rig. Who ever scabbed this together was limited in their experience. Those rear vertical angle iron pieces are doing very little to help, the pushing forces will travel back and want to bend those, they are acting as a long lever. ( not what you want) A stronger way to support the front push bar, would be to weld braces from the lowest point on the push bar back up at a 45 ( give or take) to the truck frame. If your welding skills are not up to the job, try and find a buddy who is good and can lend a hand, trade him out for some work your good at and have him teach you a couple things as your doing the job. Heres an example of the angles you should shoot for. ( this is a much heavier plow


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Did you buy this from a guy in Kalamazoo?


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

Yeah I'll probably end up copycatting your design, definitely looks alot stronger than what I've got going on, curious your opinion can't run 220 at my house can get a 120 volt welder that can do 3/16 any chance that I'll be able to work with that? Truck has no title or tabs so kinda limited on being able to get it welded


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

And I got the truck in MN it was sold locally to my area


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Deeds86 said:


> And I got the truck in MN it was sold locally to my area


Where are you at in MN? I may know someone who knows someone near you.
Many welders ( the people, not the machines) can do mobile work. Maybe there's one near you?


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

I'm in waseca its the next city over from owatonna, I've googled and called mobile welders and none service my area... If you know someone that would be awesome, I can Fab up some bracing at work and have everything as ready to go as I can


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Deeds86 said:


> Yeah I'll probably end up copycatting your design, definitely looks alot stronger than what I've got going on, curious your opinion can't run 220 at my house can get a 120 volt welder that can do 3/16 any chance that I'll be able to work with that? Truck has no title or tabs so kinda limited on being able to get it welded


No, you need a 220 welder, that 120 ain't gong to cut it.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Deeds86 said:


> Yeah I'll probably end up copycatting your design, definitely looks alot stronger than what I've got going on, curious your opinion can't run 220 at my house can get a 120 volt welder that can do 3/16 any chance that I'll be able to work with that? Truck has no title or tabs so kinda limited on being able to get it welded


Like Randall said, 220v machine would be a much better choice. The only way I've seen people have better success with a small 120v welder ( on thicker materials) is to preheat the weld area with a flame. Not glowing red, but about half way to it, then immediately make the weld with you small machine cranked up for all it's got. This will allow better penetration and flow. This requires some practice. In your case, if 3/16" is the max your rig will weld, I wouldn't go above 1/4" or 3/8" using the above method. Multi pass is a must. If you going to do this with flux-core wire, then disregard everything I suggested. Find a bigger welder. If you have the option to fab offsite. You can build it all after taking carful measurements. And bolt it on.


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## Freshwater (Feb 28, 2014)

scottr said:


> I'll toss my 2-cents in this ring. I know it's a 600.oo rig. Who ever scabbed this together was limited in their experience. Those rear vertical angle iron pieces are doing very little to help, the pushing forces will travel back and want to bend those, they are acting as a long lever. ( not what you want) A stronger way to support the front push bar, would be to weld braces from the lowest point on the push bar back up at a 45 ( give or take) to the truck frame. If your welding skills are not up to the job, try and find a buddy who is good and can lend a hand, trade him out for some work your good at and have him teach you a couple things as your doing the job. Heres an example of the angles you should shoot for. ( this is a much heavier plow
> View attachment 180849


Nice mount. I just gave a couple suggestions for reinforcing the existing mount to do a drive. If building a whole new mount is feasible, I'd definitely copy yours.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Freshwater said:


> Nice mount. I just gave a couple suggestions for reinforcing the existing mount to do a drive. If building a whole new mount is feasible, I'd definitely copy yours.


Oh for sure Freshwater, all good input for the OP, if we all toss a few things into the pot, he can stir it up and see how it tastes


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

scottr said:


> Oh for sure Freshwater, all good input for the OP, if we all toss a few things into the pot, he can stir it up and see how it tastes


Hes got 6 months to fab it up.


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Deeds86 said:


> I'm in waseca its the next city over from owatonna, I've googled and called mobile welders and none service my area... If you know someone that would be awesome, I can Fab up some bracing at work and have everything as ready to go as I can


I haven't been able to find someone who knows a welder in your area, but a quick googlr search gave me 5 in the Waseca-Owatonna area .


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## Deeds86 (Apr 24, 2018)

Yeah I googled it too and none are a possibility 3 or so of them are production businesses and do not take outside work, I appreciate you searching I just started to build a mount at work today in our shop my goal is to build a bolt in setup similiar to the one posted previously, that way I don't need a welder to come to me... We'll see how good at measuring I am!


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Wow. This is cake work. Hope you find somebody.


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## fireside (Mar 1, 2008)

For what a welder would cost those older frames are everywhere cheap. I bet for 400 you could find a complete plow frame and all


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