# Tire Chains



## sillyp (Oct 18, 2004)

what are the best kind of tire chains? seems like those diamond pattern ones would work well, http://tirechain.com/DIAMONDSTYLECARCHAINS.htm
or would i be better off with a really heavy duty convetional style.

I'm driving a 99 f250sd reg cab 4x4


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## Mick (May 19, 2001)

I bought chains last week and researched the subject extensively (like I tend to do). Those chains are not recommended for plowing. I'd be most concerned with that "easy fastener" breaking. Plus I can't tell the thickness of the links.

This is what you want:
http://tirechain.com/LITETRUCK.htm

Tire Warehouse ordered them for me, so not sure if they're the same brand, but they are designed the same. Whatever you do, don't get those "cable chains".


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## plowman777 (Dec 15, 2002)

i like the chains with "V" bars ....but i havent used them on 4wd truck
just an old oldsmobile years ago...it was a tank


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## oldmankent (Mar 2, 2001)

I've got v bar chains that I used last winter once. I will not use them again though. They do give outstanding traction, but if you drive on any sections of hard pack or clear road which you are probably bound to do they vibrate like crazy. I think next time around I'd tend to go with a less aggressive chain to help out the 4wd. Possibly a cable chain on all 4 tires.


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## wfd44 (Jan 31, 2004)

I would use traditional chains only as a last resort. They tend to tear up too much equipment.

I would, however, highly recommend On-Spot chains. They are pricey but work great and aren't prone to damaging bodywork, ripping off brake lines or getting tangled between the duals.

Check 'em out at www.onspot.com


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

If you want the best chains made get a set of TRYGG tire chains. They are the best chains made. The super 2000 is a good all around chain The Trygg studded are also good but a little heavier to hang. If you need to do some high speed running in between jobs and don't want to remove your chains get a set of Scan Trac's. I have ran a set of 3 rail scan trac's for hundred's of miles in excess of 60mph and never broke a link. A few weeks ago I was hauling a Cat off highway rock truck chassis grossing about 135,000. The road was a mix of snow and ice and I did not have very good driver weight. For a steep hill I had to go over I hung a set of Trygg super 2000 chains. In order to get over the hill I literally chewed through the ice and left ruts in the pavement. The chains held up fine. If these chains can take this kind of abuse on a semi they will last forever on a pickup plowing snow. I have been running Trygg's since 1994 and have never broke a cross-link or side-rail. The studs do wear out after several thousand miles on hard-pack ice but they will outlive any other chain on the market 10-1. The only drawback to the Trygg is the price but you get what you pay for.


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## Night_Sailor (Jan 5, 2004)

wfd44;156104 said:


> I would use traditional chains only as a last resort. They tend to tear up too much equipment.
> 
> I would, however, highly recommend On-Spot chains. They are pricey but work great and aren't prone to damaging bodywork, ripping off brake lines or getting tangled between the duals.
> 
> Check 'em out at www.onspot.com


These are not recommended for plowing as they don't spin enough to sling the chains in front of the tire when the snow is deeper than 4".

Reference: 





Have you used these while plowing?


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## Night_Sailor (Jan 5, 2004)

*Old Thread that needs to be brought back to life*

This old thread that needs to be brought back to life.

I've used tire chains a few times and hated them each time I did. A few years ago, I was given a nice pair of chains by a friend--heavy duty and nice sized links. I pulled them out in desperation during the worst storm we had two years ago, 28 Dec of 2010 here in Connecticut. They did help me get unstuck a few times but had to be removed for driving on plowed road. Several times a link connecting the tension-er failed. I managed to bang it back into shape long enough to get unstuck. Perhaps if I repaired this better, it would have been reliable. Better tensioner's would have helped. What works best? I don't know. In the past my experience with chains was the required slow driving on plowed surfaces and that ate up too much time driving to new locations. I have not used cable type traction aids. I'd welcome opinions on this. Finally, tire chains when they break cause body damage and brake line failures, the last is not something to deal with while plowing. I looked at the spinning type snow chains and these don't work in deep snow. Has anyone plowed with Onspot chains?

I came to several conclusions after this extreme event:

1)Tire chains are a bad idea and to be used only as a last resort. Chains take too long to put on and take off. They break and can't be truly tested until conditions are extreme. They require extra tools and materials to repair while working. They cost too much in time to be practical. 
2) I now feel the best solution is to have locking differentials front and back--this well worth the extra cost in time savings while plowing, and would decrease the number of time I'd get stuck. I've thinking about a TruTrak for my front differential on my Chevy. I have a G80 in the back. I frequently drive a Ford F250 which does not have a locker in the back and it will probably be sold soon for that reason.
3) Snow tires make sense. They are designed to work well in snow. The next increase in performance comes with studs, which are the only thing that really work on ice. Here in New England we get a lot of rain turning to snow that leaves a layer of ice on the ground with snow on top. It is treacherous.

Studded snow tires seem to make the most sense for traction in lieu of chains. While I've not plowed with studded tires, I have slipped off many driveways in icy conditions. The time lost for recovery is too great, even when plowing in teams, as we would do in extreme conditions.

4) A V-plow is the only thing that works to break ground in deep snow. A normal plow will push you off the road and require steering input to stay centered which will decrease traction. Wheels need to be pointed forward.

5) Recovery winches need to be mounted on the back and have enough cable to reach and attachment point and should have a mechanism to dampen the cable if it snaps--wrap it (coil around it) in heavy chain for example.

Pavement damage: While studs can scar up a driveway, so can chains. What is best is to maintain traction and that means locking differentials to ensure all four wheels are being used. That allows slower plowing, which minimized wear on the vehicle and pavement.

The hierarchy of traction:

Summer tires
All Season Tires
Off road tires
Snow tires
Studded snow Tires
Chains
4x4 with chains on all four tires
Snow Cat


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