# Powder coating



## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Alright,

there is a fair amount of Info on here for Plow Painting. POR 15 seems to be a good product, and there are a handful of you guys who just scrape and paint with whatever.

I decided to go the POR 15 route and had to have $400 worth of product shipped in (bought extra to have for touch up or other projects), because there is NO dealers in New England (this may be an opportunity for you guys with a store front. I have the contact info of the guy who can set you up. PM me if interested). Anyway, It seems SAND BLASTING is a scarce operations in Maine for some reason. Either a plow is too big of a project or too small, and everyone in between has gotten out of it all together. I finally found a place, which primarily does Powder Coating. While talking to the sales guy about spraying the POR 15 for me too, he says he can sandblast, prep, and powder coat the entire plow for less then spraying MY product.

*Here is the question!?!??! If given the chance to start from scratch would you powder coat your plow to manufacture standards or start fresh with something else. i.e. POR 15??*


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## SNO-PRO (Dec 5, 2007)

Por 15 for sure, look in the truck and equipment repair topic(frame paint)as it is currently being talked about and "mag man" hit the nail on the head in my opinion. 
Powder coat is great for certain applications, in my opinion plows are not one. Basically your putting a ziploc bag on it and it works excellent until the bag rips and then moisture gets in and it starts lifting the powdercoat.


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## bribrius (May 5, 2007)

the sales guy has my vote.

give him three hundred, drop off the plow and let him worry about it. 

Kind of like when we all tell a small business to just hire a snow professional and let them do the job because that is what they do.


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## skidooer (Feb 22, 2008)

well that is a good question, I have had alot of powder coating done to items for snowmobiles and motorcycles but never in a area which is subject to abuse my concern is if you spend alot of money and it is in the same shape as it was before powder coating in a year,let me call the guy that does my powder coating and ask if he has done any plows and how it holds up.

por 15 is UV sensative so it needs to painted over and only comes in cans and not spray ready applications.

it like their is 5 good reasons and five bad reasons for each appliction.

I do agree with snopro if moisture gets under it it is done for I have seen trailers that were powder coated and anywhere it got scraped to bare metal it is like cancer and comes from underneath and spreads


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

If it was back to factory powder coat specs i would probably do that route...for $300 to have someone do all that would be totally worth it IMO. My time is worth something too. POR15 is certainly a great product though!

btw one of my local parts stores sells it


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I was told they do the whole eclectic shock thing while painting it. Then bake it on. Seeing how Powder Coating is there primary thing, I assume it is Factory quality.


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## mike33087 (Feb 9, 2005)

not to be an A$$ but why is this in the pictures forum???


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Here...Is that better? J/k


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

RepoMan207;619003 said:
 

> I was told they do the whole eclectic shock thing while painting it. Then bake it on. Seeing how Powder Coating is there primary thing, I assume it is Factory quality.


It's not that they shock it, they just give the piece a negative charge and the powder coating particles a positive charge...and because of the laws of physics, they stick together...then like you said they bake it!

I still would go with the powder coat! =]


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I re read the process just after I posted that. It's a cool concept really.


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## Johnnay Boy91 (Aug 21, 2008)

i know a place in mass that sells POR 15 that paint is nice but dont get it on your skin lol wont come off for atleast a week i use black POR 15 all the time my hands are black all the time hahahah


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Where in MA John? I had to order from NY and have it shipped.


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## mx495 (Oct 29, 2004)

Just because a place powder coats doesn't mean much. I race ATV's and get the frame,swingarm,etc. powder coated every winter. Some places put it on really thick with several layers and some even clearcoat it. I had a company that does golf cart frames do mine and it was flaking off after about a month, it was too thin. I have had it done by another place that did it thick and it was like new after a full season of beating it. Also, powder coat is really hard and will chip if it's hit with rocks from the highway,etc. Just like paint prep is a major factor. Powdercoat is really durable if done right, but so is paint, if done right.
Just my opinion and experience with it.


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## mike33087 (Feb 9, 2005)

*lol*



RepoMan207;619042 said:


> Here...Is that better? J/k


lol well i expected to see a sweet pic of a powder coated plow or something but nooooo.................


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

nahhh, just the ole battle axe of a fisher! Consider that before pic......As soon as I get this thing all done I will post the after pic. It will look like a cross between the MM2 and MM1. New stlye lights and lift arm.


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## USMCMP5811 (Aug 31, 2008)

POR - 15 is a good paint, if you use it on anything other than metal that is.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

great..why you say that? Anything specific?


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## modedicebox (Sep 17, 2008)

I thought I would jump in on this. I have a small powder coat shop I run part time. Like what was said earlier in the thread it can and will chip and moisture,salt,ect will find its way behind the coating and it will begin flaking. To try an avoid this you could have a base coat put down( there are primers for powder coat) solid color then a clear. rinse it off after each day and it should last for years. just my .2


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Prime, clear, then powder coat??? This is the place I am going to one way or the other.....PPPI Inc.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

What about Phosphate??? They do that too. I have never heard of it on a plow, but all the pro's of it kinda fit.


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## modedicebox (Sep 17, 2008)

Phosphate is chemically etched into the metal correct? That may work as well. Will it scratch? Like anodizing on aluminum it is chemically etched and scratches pretty easy.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

nah, it's gatta be a base coat or something. I would paint over it deffinitley!


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## Crash935 (Sep 3, 2003)

I have a blade out for blasting and powder coating right now. Factory powder coat was wasted, owner does absolutly no maintance before, during or after the season, just left it sitting in the field. Cant wait to see how it comes out but anything will be better than what i started with.


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## USMCMP5811 (Aug 31, 2008)

RepoMan207;619653 said:


> great..why you say that? Anything specific?


There's actualy a thread here about POR-15 going to crap and I know a few people who have used it on their chassies, last about a year then it just starts flaking off and looking like Kha-Kha


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

So this is what the guys at the blast shop sent me this morning.

_"We have decided that we would not entertain using that coating for you on your plow, what we can do is blast to a white metal blast costing around $300.00 and coating with a zinc powder as a base coat and top coating with a polyester to match the yellow and the black for around $400.00. We can just blast the frame and plow if you choose to find someone else to coat it, sorry for the delay on returning an answer to you."_

Polyester coating?? Zinc Powder?? $700??

The $$ is way off in my book. What is with the Polyester, anyone heared of this?


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## JayMac (Jul 5, 2007)

SNO-PRO;618976 said:


> Por 15 for sure, look in the truck and equipment repair topic(frame paint)as it is currently being talked about and "mag man" hit the nail on the head in my opinion.
> Powder coat is great for certain applications, in my opinion plows are not one. Basically your putting a Ziploc bag on it and it works excellent until the bag rips and then moisture gets in and it starts lifting the powdercoat.


Let me ask, is your opinion based on how well the factory coating holds up or just powder coating in general? If we are talking factory coatings then the question of metal prep should really be questioned. Usually the factory cuts corners to cut cost and doesn't prep the metal well enough for the coating to last. But if the metal is prepared well enough powder coating is harder than hammered hell and should last for a long time. I have seen many of race car frames go to there grave with the original coating, I think that says something.



RepoMan207;624465 said:


> So this is what the guys at the blast shop sent me this morning.
> 
> _"We have decided that we would not entertain using that coating for you on your plow, what we can do is blast to a white metal blast costing around $300.00 and coating with a zinc powder as a base coat and top coating with a polyester to match the yellow and the black for around $400.00. We can just blast the frame and plow if you choose to find someone else to coat it, sorry for the delay on returning an answer to you."_
> 
> ...


First the cost is high for where I live, but then if no one is doing that service around you that may be a good price. The Poly coating will give it a deeper shine and more protection kind of like a custom street bike frame. The Zinc is a standard coating and in my opinion will be good enough.


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## Fordistough (Feb 14, 2005)

Where are the pictures??????


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I forgot to follow up on this thread. Sorry guys.


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## Fordistough (Feb 14, 2005)

Is that blade a speedcast on a MM2 headgear assy? Its definitely not a MM2 blade.


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## nickv13412 (Nov 9, 2006)

Fordistough;745715 said:


> Is that blade a speedcast on a MM2 headgear assy? Its definitely not a MM2 blade.


Its a MM2 lift triangle on a MM1 headgear/MM1 blade


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## daninline (Nov 1, 2004)

Looks good.
I used to run part of a shop in Mass that did all kinds of coatings big or small they are in Hudson MA call Boyd Coatings. They can sand blast a whole car in the sand blast room and stick a car in one of the big ovens LOL.
I did some powder coating on snow guns every year they looked so nice when done.
If you sand blast the parts good and spray them hot it will come out like glass.

The reason we would spray hot is to get in the corners good as the charge would make the inside corners a pain to coat.
How about a nickle coating that stuff is strong


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

i was wondering about line-xing a plow


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## fisher guy (Nov 11, 2008)

thats gotta be one of the nicest looking mm1's ive ever seen lol now i want my sand blasted and powder coated lol id be afraid to push any snow with it lol thats why i bought used lol


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

Repo- That thing looks mint! You basically have a new plow now. What did the whole job run and where did you find the replacement stickers on the back of the plow?


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## fisher guy (Nov 11, 2008)

hey its a MM 1.6

i plan on doing the same job on my MM2 except i wanna convert it over to an X-blade


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

It cost me around $1800 all said an done. The Blasting an coating in itself was a big ***** of it. Blasted, Zinc Coated, Powder Coated, Painted twice, then Clear Coated. I can slam her into a rock wall an it won't effect the paint job. It's a 96', an the metal was in mint condition, so why waste another $4k on a new one. This thing will last another 10 years or longer. Of coarse now I have decided to sell it, I need a V blade due to my account base. 

Ford Fisherman, I sent you a PM Bud.

Fisher Guy....you want to change it to a X blade.....You mean like swapping the blade on the A Frame? 

I like the idea of the SS...A buddy of mine has had the same one for about 5 years now, it still looks new even with all the abuse he does to it. You can buy the Lift Arm in the Silver to match the SS X Blade too.


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## fisher guy (Nov 11, 2008)

yup one of the fisher dealers around me said it was the same A frame so it will bolt right on. I just got the blade last month it does alright but i just want the xblade they scrape alot better they look sweet and they dont rust. So why not instead of buying the whole thing just swap out a couple of parts and make it a true xblade. my blade itself is an 04 model.

Im going to redo pretty much everything on it. I want to put a new motor on it change out the triangle put the moldboard and trip edge, maybe put on some Intensifiers and shes done I may be able to find just the blade with trip used i saw one on craigslist just the other day. So for half the price ill have me a pretty much brand new Xblade.


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

Thanks Repo.


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## jblatti13 (Jan 24, 2009)

im a painter as well as a plower, and ive used a few products on my plows that have held up very well.... for my 01 western when the metal was still in good shape i used a devlon product.. xylene based ( a chemical stronger than oil based) in safety red and it looks like new after a full season of plowing.... 50 bucks a gallon and the plow only takes about 1/8 of that... on my older western i scraped the rust, primed with macropoxy, which basically turns into hard plastic but doesnt crack or chip, and then covred with the devlon safety red, because of the poxy doesnt look smooth like new but from 10 feet away you cant tell... and every rust spot or flaw in the plow is absolutely gone... just my ideas instead of spedning 500 to get a pro job


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

*Here is a Guide for blade swapping to be sure you have the right information on it.*









*Here is the full link........Fisher Blade Selection It's Pages 19 - 25. First figure out what you have by looks, then measure an match to specific part number. Then you can see specifically what blade selections you have available.*


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

jblatti13;747040 said:


> im a painter as well as a plower, and ive used a few products on my plows that have held up very well.... for my 01 western when the metal was still in good shape i used a devlon product.. xylene based ( a chemical stronger than oil based) in safety red and it looks like new after a full season of plowing.... 50 bucks a gallon and the plow only takes about 1/8 of that... on my older western i scraped the rust, primed with macropoxy, which basically turns into hard plastic but doesnt crack or chip, and then covred with the devlon safety red, because of the poxy doesnt look smooth like new but from 10 feet away you cant tell... and every rust spot or flaw in the plow is absolutely gone... just my ideas instead of spedning 500 to get a pro job


How do you prep the metal for the macropoxy? Can it be applied over or in place of a product like Por15?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I just realized I can buy a New A frame 27598 an attach it to my head gear, then I can purchase a new M series or X Blade to attach to that......It's only $500 for the A Frame, and a new 8' SS Blade 28100for $2100 for the Blade. What a steal.....


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I have heard some conflicting stories about that stuff. Before anyone says anything, Obviously prep is the key to any painting project, that goes without saying. Now lets talk poduct.........

In my humble opinion, it would have to be blasted to white metal for best results. I have seen this stuff in action in a few different scenarios, I wasn't that impressed. I haven't seen POR 15 over a extended period of time as I have seen macropoxy products, but if it were me I would go with POR 15 over macropoxy products.


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

What do you figure the blast and paint cost you all together?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I paid a little over $700 for my deal.

North East Painting and Coating in Lewiston, ME will blast and powder coat your broke down setup for around $300, but I couldn't wait on there time line. Plus they don't Zinc Coat an Clear like the place I used. They actually powder coat all of Fisher's over flow....or atleast they did when there was an over flow, now they primarily do all of there Shoe's an some other parts for the Rockland, Me facility.


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## Oshkosh (Sep 11, 2005)

*In Gloucester,Ma*



RepoMan207;619188 said:


> Where in MA John? I had to order from NY and have it shipped.


 Rose Marine is a stocking dealer for POR15 in Gloucester,MA


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Oshkosh;747205 said:


> Rose Marine is a stocking dealer for POR15 in Gloucester,MA


I have about $900 worth of the stuff, another dealer won't take it back. Maybe I will look them up, but I doubt they'll dish out the dough for it either. Thanks though!


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

What size containers; gallons? Quarts?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

both...along with primers, solvents, prep solutions, stripper. Most of it is by the gallon. I have like 8 boxes on the shelf of this stuff.



RepoMan207;650602 said:


> If you go with POR 15, I have all kinds of POR 15 for sale...Self etching Primer, Rust paint, Top Coat, Black Cote, Clear coat, stripper, all the different kinds of prep solvents....Marine Clean, Ap-120, Metal Ready, mixing solvent so you can use with spray gun, Spray bottles, Let me know what you need. I have gallons and pints.....Selling cheap. It's all unopened, still in the boxes. I spent well over $900 on this stuff. I wanted to do my plow with it, but I had no where to do it where I moved into a condo. I will sell it CHEAP! send me an email with your needs. [email protected]


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

RepoMan207;2797 said:


> 2 Gallons POR Strip
> 1 Gallon Marine Clean
> 1 Gallon Metal Ready
> 1 Gallon AP-120 Prep
> ...


This is excatly what I have.


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## jblatti13 (Jan 24, 2009)

i havemt used the por 15 but the macropoxy you can damn near put over anything... there was a good amount of rust and paint left on the western and i painted it right over that... i just rolled it right on... hasnt chipped or anything, the only rust i get is surface rust from salt and other ***** that sits on top of the paint... xylene is the cheapest way to go though... takes about an hour to cover a plow with a small brush and roller... it adheres to rust and the base coat paint... 50 bucks a gallon and about an hour of work is the best you could do... id never take my plows to a pro for 5-600... just sand and scrape all the chipped paint and everything you can... two coats of that stuff will last... i havent seen rust or bare metal all year and i keep my plow on the truck outside year round... prep work is by far the most important thing to painting though... make sure all the chips and stuff are gone... but youll love it when its done.


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## unimogr (Feb 18, 2004)

Just to add to the list of options. This is a product I found in the American Historical Truck Magazine. Sounds like a decent product:

http://www.zerorust.com/


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## snowguys (Jul 26, 2006)

RepoMan207;747245 said:


> This is excatly what I have.


how much you looking to get for it


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

snowguys;1019694 said:


> how much you looking to get for it


It's all gone....well sort of, I gave it to a good friend of mine so he could re do his Flat bed....If he still has it, he won't use it. I'll check in with him next week and let you know if it's available or not.


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