# obs chevy rhino lining



## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

does any one have any pictures of this done, i just want to get an idea of what it looks like before i go spend 1200 and i dont like it. its going on the truck in my sig. any help is appresheated. thanks alot guys.


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## jadyejr (Nov 29, 2008)

i would never ever ever rhino line.... The truck i have was rhino lined before i got it, and it is crap. it peels off waaaaay to easy... If you want something good get LineX, that stuff is the real deal!


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

rhino lingng has a life time warrentee for my owner ship of the truck, i dont like line ex its to hard and slippery for a bed liner and stuff slided to easy


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## tuna (Nov 2, 2002)

1200?I have never heard any spray liner being that expensive.The last one i had done was in 2003 Reflexliner cost me $360.00 .Reflexliner is much better than the Rhino I had in my `01 F150.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

the new boss 92;918696 said:


> rhino lingng has a life time warrentee for my owner ship of the truck, i dont like line ex its to hard and slippery for a bed liner and stuff slided to easy


Line X has a lifetime warranty for as long as you own your truck also. I have Line X and my friend has Rhino and his was chipping and falling apart in 6 months. It is too soft and can not take a beating. Mine looks like new after one year and my other friends line X is two years old and looks and has held up great. $1200 is way to much for rhino also. You can get your truck bed done over the rails with rhino here for $650 or so. I had my bed line X for $500 over the rail with tax included. It is hard and it can take a beating and if it chips you take it in and they fix it right away, no questions asked. Dont worry about it being slippery. I walk around the back of the bed no problem with snow and ice back there all the time. I have seen both products and I am not bias since I have the Line X. My friend who has the rhino said he is getting Line X in his next truck. Hope this helped.:salute:


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## IHI (Nov 22, 2003)

$1200 I'm assuming they're not only doing the truck bed but the rockers/entire bottom 1/4 of the truck since that is the going rate from every Line-X dealer i've ever heard of. The MOST i've ever heard a truck bed getting sold for is $500 for a long box, $380 for a short box.

This is by far not the first or last time i've heard Rhino has some serious adhesion and longevity issues, and i can say first hand the Line-X product is bad to the bone!! You can take it to any dealer in the country and get it repaired free if for some odd reason you have an issue with it.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

i ment to say im not going to spend any more then 1200 hundo. my buddie had just had a brand new 450 4 door long bed and it cost a little under that much. i got a quote for my rockers wheel wells in side and out, and they are going to do 7mm think in the bed for 675. i think im going to do it, im going to go to linex and see what the have to say. it just the closest line ex dealer tome is about 45 minuets away. my rhino liner dealer is 3 minuets and i only know one person that has had problems with it and he does concreate work in the summer so it take a beating!


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## turb0diesel (Dec 13, 2009)

had my new gmc done at 
Line X of Bartlett for about $500
never had a problem with it 
i would recomend them and line-x
www.linexofbartlett.com


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## prostk2 (Oct 18, 2009)

I have a Rhinoliner on my truck 98 K-2500 and I will not buy again.the edge of the bed rails is rubbed off. the only thing and I mean the only thing that sits against the bed rail would be a smooth handle of a Toro lawnmower. I agree the Linex slides but is way more durable---IMHO

If you want to see the way if looks just contact me. Good luck with your purchase


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Heres an option for those who do everything at home like me. I did my S15 this summer with Herculiner, came from JC Whitney. They key to any of these coatings is the prep work, so since I trust myself more than any professional shop around, thats how I did it. I spent an afternoon doing the job, took the tailgate off, used a power sander on all the flats and hand sanded everything else. Cleaned the whole works with acetone (since the Xylene they recommend as a first choice wasn't available in our local stores as far as I know).

I took my time and taped off everything I didn't want covered. I also taped off a little ways down the outside of the box for an over-the-edge boxliner type effect.

You can do it with a roller and brush if you like, but I used my Shutz/undercoating gun. Made a really easy job of it and a beautiful consistant well-textured non-slip finish. I believe I used 3 coats of it and still have a little material left over (6' bed). I also topcoated it with the UV protectant. DEFINATELY wear a painting respirator for this job, trust me... The Xylene its based on is nasty stuff.

Since I did the prep work myself, I am convinced the liner will stay in place perfectly. The stuff is made in South Africa, its not some cheap Chinese crap. So far I couldn't be happier with the job. 

How durable is the stuff? Very first load it got in it, at about 3-4 days old, was a load of scrap metal... just tin--junk appliances etc. I wasn't gentle either. I was able to slide a heavy old green fridge out the back to unload it alone with some work, the textured finish makes for some serious grip!! You think I could scratch the liner? Not a chance, in fact, I had to wash it off afterwards BECAUSE I SCRAPED HALF THE PAINT OFF THE FRIDGE ON THE LINER!! Green scrapings everywhere!

You could literally buy a brand new shutz gun, sandpaper, acetone, etc. plus the Herculiner liquid and UV stuff... I'd say well under $200 for everything. If you already have the gun and supplies, the black liquid is $91.99 a gallon, $31.99 a quart.....and UV coating is $29.99 for a quart can. You can also get it in Red, Grey, and White for $141.99/gallon. Prices are from the current catalog, and I think the gallon price includes the roller and scuff pads etc.

The UV stuff isn't even necessary, but helps prevent (also restore) older sun-exposed bed coatings that are going greyish. They also claim it sticks to itself, so if you do manage to tear thru it somehow, you just scrape away anything loose, rough it with some coarse sandpaper, and spray/roll/brush a little back on again and it will self-heal.

I can post pics if anyone wants to see, right now its dark and while I washed the truck last night its already covered in white again... :S

But I would NEVER spend that kind of money on a professional spray in liner again. The old '88 2500 we have was Rhinoed I believe in '96, had to be redone under warrenty and looked like ass afterwards. Lasted well for a few years but a few shovels thrown in by careless employees cut thru it in places and it is lifting... mind you, its been in there 13 years now. At the time, though, the job was well over $600 and the closest dealer was in Toronto, 2 hours away.


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## IHI (Nov 22, 2003)

Herculiner is JUNK!!! we tried it on one of our trucks yrs ago, UV absolutly KILLS it.

Better off with a plastic bed liner, cheaper and last way longer. Take pictures of your bed now, and then compare 1 yr from now...it'll blow your mind at the rate it degregates.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

IHI;919501 said:


> Herculiner is JUNK!!! we tried it on one of our trucks yrs ago, UV absolutly KILLS it.
> 
> Better off with a plastic bed liner, cheaper and last way longer. Take pictures of your bed now, and then compare 1 yr from now...it'll blow your mind at the rate it degregates.


Did you use the UV top coat? I did. Its already six monthes old sitting in the summer sun every day. Still looks new in every way. And no thank you on the plastic liner, not looking to trap water, leaves, salt etc. underneath. Took OUT a fairly new plastic liner for that reason, truck was full of wet oak leaves underneath it...

Time will tell how the Herculiner holds up. Maybe you got a bad batch even?


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## IHI (Nov 22, 2003)

It was when the stuff first came out, maybe it's better than it was, but the rubber granules would come off in the car washes, and was 30% gone by the time a year rolled around. I tried it on my plow brackets at that time too, and it degraded just as fast and all that did was sit under a lean too roof on the side of a barn.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

I got a touch of overspray down low on the rear bumper where it got thru a taped seam that I didn't press down enough... non-sanded chrome, not cleaned, etc. I had to pick off individual grains of rubber with my nail, each one fought me all the way, never did get it all off! lol but its on the bottom so no one will ever see anyways. Mine doesn't come off in the carwash either. Stuff seems to stick like glue.

Sounds like it either changed drastically, or you maybe got a ****** batch of material. 

But either way, time will tell. Its on the truck now so I'm gonna find out one way or the other!! :laughing:


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

turb0diesel;919056 said:


> had my new gmc done at
> Line X of Bartlett for about $500
> never had a problem with it
> i would recomend them and line-x
> www.linexofbartlett.com


got any pictures of your truck? did you get the rockers done or just the bed liner?


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

I wish I could post a picture of my bed. When I bought it in 01 it had a brand new bedliner in it, took it out and threw it behind the garage (think it's still there). Debated on doing a spray-in or more likely a self-applied roller job, but I wasn't sure I wanted to compromise the ability to slide stuff on the bed floor. For example, I have a loadhandler that I use occasionally, and that needs a smooth surface to slide on, would never work on rubber. So, I've left it alone and used it as a truck bed should be used. This bed is beaten worse inside than any bed I've ever owned. In the winter I load it with sand/salt mix and shovel it into the tailgate sander. First winter of that took the paint off, second winter took the primer/galvy off, now every winter it takes off the fresh layer of surface rust. I really could care less, it's a work truck and how long do you really need a bed to last? Mines 13 years old, a new tailgate and fenders soon should buy me a couple years, when the bed floors gone I'll put another bed on it-for about the cost of a rhino lining.
Worked for an equipment rental place once, all their trucks had rhino liner applied when new. They were loaded and unloaded all day long with forklifts, carried compacters, generators, everything you can imagine. Inside of a year the liners looked terrible. The beds were all dented to hell, and the liner was peeled up in a bunch of places, mostly at the back where the forklift forks would catch while scraping back and forth. I guess it probably protected the bed a tiny bit, but not really enough to make a difference in the life of the truck imo.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

the new boss 92;918986 said:


> i ment to say im not going to spend any more then 1200 hundo. my buddie had just had a brand new 450 4 door long bed and it cost a little under that much. i got a quote for my rockers wheel wells in side and out, and they are going to do 7mm think in the bed for 675. i think im going to do it, im going to go to linex and see what the have to say. it just the closest line ex dealer tome is about 45 minuets away. my rhino liner dealer is 3 minuets and i only know one person that has had problems with it and he does concreate work in the summer so it take a beating!


So let me get this straight you would rather just drive 3 minutes for a product that is crap IMO and wont hold up to any type of abuse, then take a little time out of your day to drive 45 minutes each way for a far superior product. I find that . Even it costs a little bit more I have always bought the best product out there when I have the chance. Take for example. I buy north face fleeces and winter gear. Yeah you can go out and buy a run of the mill fleece for $25 somewhere, but it does not come with a life time warranty and more then likely it will start to fall apart after a few years, but in my case I paid over $165 for my fleece and I have had one of them for over 13 years. It looks just as good as when I bought it, and i had a zipper go bad and in the summer I sent it to them, they paid shipping and fixed it for free and sent it back. My friends dad had one that was 27 years old. Started to wear and tear after all those years. He sent it to them and they sent him a brand new fleece. So I just cant see why you are still not willing to drive 45 minutes to go get a better product that is more reliable and durable after seeing and reading what other guys have to say about experiences with both of them. I hope you make the right decision and I would post pictures of my bed done, but I have 3000 lbs of salt back there right now in a salter and I cant get the best picture. Good Luck. ussmileyflag


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

Burkartsplow;919855 said:


> So let me get this straight you would rather just drive 3 minutes for a product that is crap IMO and wont hold up to any type of abuse, then take a little time out of your day to drive 45 minutes each way for a far superior product. I find that . Even it costs a little bit more I have always bought the best product out there when I have the chance. Take for example. I buy north face fleeces and winter gear. Yeah you can go out and buy a run of the mill fleece for $25 somewhere, but it does not come with a life time warranty and more then likely it will start to fall apart after a few years, but in my case I paid over $165 for my fleece and I have had one of them for over 13 years. It looks just as good as when I bought it, and i had a zipper go bad and in the summer I sent it to them, they paid shipping and fixed it for free and sent it back. My friends dad had one that was 27 years old. Started to wear and tear after all those years. He sent it to them and they sent him a brand new fleece. So I just cant see why you are still not willing to drive 45 minutes to go get a better product that is more reliable and durable after seeing and reading what other guys have to say about experiences with both of them. I hope you make the right decision and I would post pictures of my bed done, but I have 3000 lbs of salt back there right now in a salter and I cant get the best picture. Good Luck. ussmileyflag


i see what you guys are all saying but i really dont use my bed to often, and after i getit done im getting the whole truck painted rust fixed and putting my hard taunno cover back on, but my bed is next to perfect and dont want to ruin it. im going to get over to linex and see what they have to say and if they can beat the price i got and if so then ill go with then and if not then im going to have to see what i wanna do with it. my only concern if that i dont want it peeling off the side of my truck and have it look like S H I T!


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## overtime (Nov 5, 2009)

I have rhino have had it in the bed for 2 years now and no problems at all and it takes a beaten. Only paid 500 for it.


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

I guess I'm just the opposite. I absolutely hate "paying for the name". 90% of the time it's the exact same product you can buy elsewhere, in fact I could go on all day about all the "quality" merchandise I've purchased and ruined/broken/worn out that was the same made in China junk that I could have gotten at Walmart for much cheaper. And even if the product is of real quality, it irritates me that they can mark it up so much more just because of their name, ie: John Deere and Fisher plows, just to name a couple.

I couldn't afford a $165 fleece, but if I did I'd have to keep it in my closet. If I wore it I'd end up ruining it, because it never fails that I end up working under my truck or helping someone else fix a breakdown, no matter what I start out the day planning to do I can't help but get dirty. I think it's a guy thing. And certain things like diesel oil and transmission fluid just do not come out. I bought a Columbia Sportswear fleece vest for $20, and I'd be willing to bet it is made from the exact same material in probably the exact same country by the exact same child labor. The only thing that costs more is the tag sewn on with the name brand. If my Columbia Sportswear fleece doesn't last a long time, who cares it was only $20. I can buy another one if I really want. In fact I could replace it with a nice clean new one seven more times before I approach the cost of your fancy one.

Or take tires and batteries for example, theres a million different brands out there competing for your dollar, but there's only a handful of factories producing the product. I've bought Cooper and GoodYear tires before that were private label brands and saved half off the retail price of the name brands. I used to wear only Levi jeans that cost $35-$40, until I tried Wranglers and found them to be more comfortable. Doesn't bother me that they only cost $11 at Walmart. And I've got jeans that have lasted me for many years.

I will in fact refuse to buy cheap generic stuff in certain instances, like electronics or electrical components, but I just didn't think performance fleece was the best example


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