# Raising plow kills truck



## Mayn (Dec 11, 2009)

I have a Western Pro Plow, and when trying to raise plow the truck will kill. It will turn left and right with a draw, but does not kill truck. I have checked the filter, cleaned all connections, checked and rechecked fluid level and filled to proper level, replaced solenoid with Western solenoid. The ironic thing is that at times it will lift and other times it will not. Pulling out what is left of my hair, and need help. Thanks for any suggestions.


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## Deco (Nov 14, 2009)

check battery and alternator for proper voltage


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## Mayn (Dec 11, 2009)

I did put jumper cables on another battery and hooked to the plow vehicle, with no difference. Alternator shows around 14 volts. However I had someone with me one day, and the alternator gauge was fluctuating. Could a weak alternator cause that?


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## Deco (Nov 14, 2009)

sure can , need proper volt/amps to operate


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## Mayn (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks Deco. Already put in $120 so what is another $125 or so? LOL. Off to get a new alternator. Thanks again. Hoping this will take care of it. Been a frustrating couple days with the 15": of nice wet snow.


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## clark lawn (Oct 7, 2005)

get it tested first dont just start throwing parts at it when you dont know for sure they are bad.


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## 4Seasonsmgt (Dec 15, 2008)

It could also be possible that the battery is shot. My trucks have the dual batteries and if one is dead or about to die i get some weak amps.


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## PlowBoy85 (Dec 11, 2009)

Same problem with my rig, about an hour after I start plowing, im lucky if the plow will lift half way up the stroke of cylinder....looking into new batts and 200 amp alternator, i'll let you guys know how it works out..


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## Crash935 (Sep 3, 2003)

Take it to a shop that can check the alt and battery on the truck and have them check the draw on the plow motor also. Heavy draw at the plow motor will kill a truck and if youve checked all the connections then its the plow motor.


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## no lead (Dec 10, 2008)

i second the motor, unless you have a very bad ground.


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## flattoplawncare (Aug 13, 2007)

*Me too*

I just had the same prob, I noticed my positive stud that goes into the motor worked its way out and the plow was moving really slow all ways. Then I tightened it up and then it started to kill my truck when i moved the plow. So I loosened the bat cable just a little bit and now it works fine. Maybe I made it too tight and it was grounding itself out on the frame of the motor.


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## Mayn (Dec 11, 2009)

Hey Plowboy, let me know if that takes care of it, I am still having problems with mine. I have had battery tested, solenoid replaced, alternator replaced which was junk, motor tested, all connections cleaned and tightened, pump checked, filter checked, fluid level checked and filled, still cannot find out what is going on. I have gone through the Mechanics Guide but still not having much luck. It will raise if you rev engine, but very slow and only a second at a time or it will kill out engine.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

4Seasonsmgt;900226 said:


> It could also be possible that the battery is shot. My trucks have the dual batteries and if one is dead or about to die i get some weak amps.


Always replace BOTH batteries at the same time, never replace just one.

To the OP maybe a bad motor, or may be the power plugs at the grill. they rot internally. Could explain the intermittant action.


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## Plowfixguys (Oct 17, 2009)

Before you start throwing parts at it, do a voltage drop test on the (+) and (-) side of the cables. Just because they look clean and you cleaned them don't mean they don't have a voltage drop. Using a volt meter hook one end to the battery (+) at the battery and other end to the (+) at the motor, run the plow, if you see any more then about .50 volts on the meter repair or replace the cable until the reading is .50 or less. Do the same on the (-) cable. We see this all the time. Just remember that just because the cable looks good doesn't mean it is, the only way to tell for sure is to do a voltage drop test.
Good luck
Robert


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Plowfixguys;903587 said:


> Before you start throwing parts at it, do a voltage drop test on the (+) and (-) side of the cables. Just because they look clean and you cleaned them don't mean they don't have a voltage drop. Using a volt meter hook one end to the battery (+) at the battery and other end to the (+) at the motor, run the plow, if you see any more then about .50 volts on the meter repair or replace the cable until the reading is .50 or less. Do the same on the (-) cable. We see this all the time. Just remember that just because the cable looks good doesn't mean it is, the only way to tell for sure is to do a voltage drop test.
> Good luck
> Robert


A continuity test for resistance works also. has the added advantage of isolating which side of the harness is at fault.


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## Plowfixguys (Oct 17, 2009)

A resistance test can and will lead you in the wrong direction, if you have cable with half the wires broken and you use an ohm meter, it with show good, if you do a loaded voltage drop test you will find a huge voltage drop. Same gos for bad connections, you have to have a heavy load similar to the load that cable will be carrying to get accurate results. Ohm meters are for low voltage, low current electronics.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Plowfixguys;903663 said:


> A resistance test can and will lead you in the wrong direction, if you have cable with half the wires broken and you use an ohm meter, it with show good, if you do a loaded voltage drop test you will find a huge voltage drop. Same gos for bad connections, you have to have a heavy load similar to the load that cable will be carrying to get accurate results. Ohm meters are for low voltage, low current electronics.


Point taken.

But we deviate from the issue under discussion, attempting to raise the plow kills the truck.


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## Plowfixguys (Oct 17, 2009)

Mayn
Did you get that rig fixed yet?


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## Mayn (Dec 11, 2009)

No I have not got it fixed. I am going to check the cables today and go from there.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Mayn;905471 said:


> No I have not got it fixed. I am going to check the cables today and go from there.


What kind of truck?

I had a older 1988 GMC with a western that did this same thing. It was corrosion build up in the ground cable itself. I replaced both positive and negative that went from battery to plow motor and it did the trick.

This is assuming you already have a high amp alternator and not just the stock one. Also make sure the cable from alternator to battery is in good shape. If one is bad anywhere I would replace all of them.

Also make sure your belt tension is staying at a proper tension and your belt is not slipping on the alternator.


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## PlowBoy85 (Dec 11, 2009)

voltage on truck side at connector 14.5.........................voltage at motor 9.5......hmmmmm gonna replace the cable, our other xblade is acting up too, our local shop said you'll average 3 seasons to a motor..


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Lots of corrosion in those cables


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## PlowBoy85 (Dec 11, 2009)

new fisher motor, works AWESOME, thanks lads and Stittsville Trailer in Ottawa, ON


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