# Meyers e-47 won’t raise, or lower.



## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

hi, I’m new to the site so if I’m hitting a topic that’s been covered let me know.

Got an old Meyers e-47 pump, with a pretty cobbled together plow. The angle rams are in the cab with me, due to not having the fittings, or a place on the plow to mount. It runs off of the slick Stik control, and whoever assembled this gem did a fantastic job of wiring the slick Stik was sloppy and with a 1/64 touch the plow would drop.

I was plowing along and then it wouldn’t go down. Figured it was in the crappy control and I had ordered a new one the day before, so I figured I wouldn’t touch it until the new control came in. Few days go buy, drive it to my shop, pull in, hit the down function and she drops. Goes back up, goes back down. Rip the slick stick, wiring harness, and relay out and replace all 3 per Meyers wiring diagram. Now it won’t go up. Took the fittings off the angle hoses and hit the angle function and got oil to squirt out. 

The pump is full of oil, haven’t checked the PSI but even if it wasn’t set accordingly I assume Something would happen. Motor runs in every position except down, A B and C coil all click when I jump them straight to the battery. Any ideas?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Ask MJD to move this over to the Meyer threads. You should get some responses. Are all the coils getting current?


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

They where. Don’t know who or what MJD is, but I took the whole works off and was ganna bring it to the Meyers guy where i live on monday. Figured I’d ask on here first


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

MJD is the moderator here, and he keeps us kids in line so to say. Kimber here is the Meyer expert. But you have been running this just as a up/down no angle? When you hit the raise, the motor runs and the magnet has current?


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

where you at?, have a spare for parts in the barn, i switched to western with the new beater


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Do any of us really _know_ MJD?


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

That is correct. Even put power to the motor, and put power to the A coil with my power probe, and nothin.


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

leolkfrm said:


> where you at?, have a spare for parts in the barn, i switched to western with the new beater


North Pole, Alaska


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> MJD is the moderator here, and he keeps us kids in line so to say. Kimber here is the Meyer expert. But you have been running this just as a up/down no angle? When you hit the raise, the motor runs and the magnet has current?


Yes that is correct, just up and down until now.

Never done this forum stuff


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

There are no brackets, mountings for the angle rams?


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> There are no brackets, mountings for the angle rams?


There is on the frame arms the connect the plow to the vehichle frame. But there is nothing on the plow its self. Nor are there mounts for the little skid feet. She's a cobbled together turd, but it went up and down foreword and backwards until a few days ago.


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

cory reid said:


> North Pole, Alaska


to far to get a working blade to you then


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

You sure pump didn't freeze up? What does fluid look like? What are you using to block off angle ports? You do not need the motor to run to lower plow. When doing testing to get plow to lower is the weight of the plow on the lift ram or are trying to push down by hand? Meyer pumps can be very difficult to lower by hand. Without angle rams it is a bit more difficult to diagnose because you can't tell what plow is trying to do when trying to move the plow. I would start by testing you new control. Disconnect positive wire to pump motor so nothing moves while testing. You need the ground for coils to work. Put control in float, should have 12v at black wire and coil should be magnetic. Have someone hold up, this will power the red wire, magnetize that coil and send 12v to signal wire for solenoid under the hood. Also good time to check for power on output side of solenoid. Have your helper hold right, all the same tests but on green wire. Last is left, you should only be sending power to signal wire for solenoid. Now if all this checks out the problem is in the pump. Frozen, dirty fluid, faulty valve or combination of problems. Have you checked the filters?


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

kimber750 said:


> You sure pump didn't freeze up? What does fluid look like? What are you using to block off angle ports? You do not need the motor to run to lower plow. When doing testing to get plow to lower is the weight of the plow on the lift ram or are trying to push down by hand? Meyer pumps can be very difficult to lower by hand. Without angle rams it is a bit more difficult to diagnose because you can't tell what plow is trying to do when trying to move the plow. I would start by testing you new control. Disconnect positive wire to pump motor so nothing moves while testing. You need the ground for coils to work. Put control in float, should have 12v at black wire and coil should be magnetic. Have someone hold up, this will power the red wire, magnetize that coil and send 12v to signal wire for solenoid under the hood. Also good time to check for power on output side of solenoid. Have your helper hold right, all the same tests but on green wire. Last is left, you should only be sending power to signal wire for solenoid. Now if all this checks out the problem is in the pump. Frozen, dirty fluid, faulty valve or combination of problems. Have you checked the filters?


Using aviation hydraulic oil. Just changed it out about a month ago, cleaned filters out with brakleen and air, fluid still looks ok. Plowed once with it, then the problems started. So no I'm not sure if the pump seized up or not. The two angle hoses are hooked together.

When it would lower, the weight of the plow was on the ram.

I hooked the entire old harness+control+relay up just to see if that was the problem, still wouldn't do anything.


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

When you say aviation hydraulic fluid, do you mean 5606 (MIL-PRF-5606)?

5606 is probably OK. 

Skydrol is not.

What were the ambient temperatures the first time you plowed, when it stopped working, when it dropped thereafter?


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

Aerospace Eng said:


> When you say aviation hydraulic fluid, do you mean 5606 (MIL-PRF-5606)?
> 
> 5606 is probably OK.
> 
> ...


Yeah 5606. 10-20 above, hasn't been below 0 yet this winter.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Randall Ave said:


> Ask MJD to move this over to the Meyer threads. You should get some responses. Are all the coils getting current?


Good advice, every time you give it you should just add the at sign in front and summons them like Batman and Robin ..
@Michael J. Donovan 
@Charles


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

cory reid said:


> Yeah 5606. 10-20 above, hasn't been below 0 yet this winter.


 I changed the oil before it snowed. Went for the first plow and it worked just fine. Then got stuck up. It sat outside for about another week, drove it to my shop and within being in the shop(50 degrees), for a total time of me getting out and shutting the garage door, walking back to the truck, it went down. So I pushed "up" on the control, it went up, then back down. So I pulled all the wiring out. About 3 hours later after installing new harness, control, relay, and making new power and ground wires, have 0 up. The two angle hoses are connected together, when I press angle I can see the hoses bow up, so something is happening there for the side to side. Took the quick couple off one hose, pressed the angle function and had oil squirt out.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

This sounds frozen to me.. if it works after warming up in the shop


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

cory reid said:


> Using aviation hydraulic oil. Just changed it out about a month ago, cleaned filters out with brakleen and air, fluid still looks ok. Plowed once with it, then the problems started. So no I'm not sure if the pump seized up or not. The two angle hoses are hooked together.
> 
> When it would lower, the weight of the plow was on the ram.
> 
> I hooked the entire old harness+control+relay up just to see if that was the problem, still wouldn't do anything.


Not seized up, frozen. Takes a very small amount of water to stop these pumps in their tracks. Changing fluid does not get all the fluid out, there need to be opened up once it has been contaminated to truly get all the water out. Try taking the C coil off, coil with green wire. If difficult to remove it is a possible sign pump has frozen.

As for your wiring did you do ALL the tests I posted?


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## Aerospace Eng (Mar 3, 2015)

It sounds like it was frozen the first time.

After the harnesses, etc. have been changed, I’m not sure what it is this time. 

If it didn’t go down while warm after you replaced the harness, that is an indication that simply being frozen cannot be the issue. 

If it was cold (you had kicked it out of the shop) it may simply be moisture in the hydraulic fluid.

I would do the tests Kimber suggested. 

Fundamentally, these are simple systems. When a direction is pushed, solenoid(s) are powered and a relay for the pump engaged except for down.


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

kimber750 said:


> Not seized up, frozen. Takes a very small amount of water to stop these pumps in their tracks. Changing fluid does not get all the fluid out, there need to be opened up once it has been contaminated to truly get all the water out. Try taking the C coil off, coil with green wire. If difficult to remove it is a possible sign pump has frozen.
> 
> As for your wiring did you do ALL the tests I posted?


I have not done all the tests you suggested. It's in the shop and I'm on the couch. Will post back when I've done your tests and let you know what I've come up with.


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

Well, brought it to the local Meyers guy where I live, told him everything I’ve said on here, on Monday. He said they would pull it apart, clean it out, put a seal kit in it($250)and if it needed a valve they’re about $100. Called me today and said it was good to go.

This is a list of parts he replaced:
Master seal kit.
Sump base with strainer assembly
“A” valve
“A” solenoid
Cover assembly
Fill cap, pressure relief
5606-A avaiation hydraulic fluid
1 can of brake clean.

He said the sump base had a chewed up o-ring and some metal, and showed me the inside of it wasn’t looking so scookum. Never really told me why the actual issue was, but I’m assuming it was the A solenoid/valve. 

And it cost me $680... So hopefully I won’t be talking to any of you for awhile. Thanks for the advice anyhow.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

No reason to replace sump base unless it is cracked. They are a cast finish so don't look real pretty to begin with. No idea what scookum means. What cover assembly? Top cap maybe? Sad to say but think he took you to the cleaner. Did he at least tell you what the pressures were? Did he set the crossover? Does he even have a test stand?


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## cory reid (Nov 25, 2018)

kimber750 said:


> No reason to replace sump base unless it is cracked. They are a cast finish so don't look real pretty to begin with. No idea what scookum means. What cover assembly? Top cap maybe? Sad to say but think he took you to the cleaner. Did he at least tell you what the pressures were? Did he set the crossover? Does he even have a test stand?


Scookum is good.

Yeah it was a top cap. No on pressure, no idea if he set the crossover, no on a test stand.


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