# Would you wire a plow like this......in CHICAGO



## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

Was helping a friend do his lights and i stumbled across this. 

He JUST had this plow installed.......by someone who i know can definitely do better than this. ussmileyflag (you know i'm right) 

Scotch locks ANYWHERE outside the garbage can IMO are a failure waiting to happen. I guess they may have their place under a dash but on the front of the truck exposed to water and salt near CHICAGO..........come on.....


So......glue lined heat shrink replaced this......now his lights will work longer than 2 seasons..prsport

I mean even Regional Truck uses the water proof version of the scotch lock.....not this garbage. ...:angry:


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)




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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

heres how i fixed it. 



























these are such junk IMO....


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

sorry for huge pics....if anyone can resize PLEASE DO>..


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## 01CTD2500 (Jun 12, 2007)

Scotchlocks are the biggest pieces of **** ever invented, every single one should be burnt and recycled into something useful like a water bottle.


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

ok.......lets keep this going as i bet it gets interesting....


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## affekonig (Aug 5, 2008)

I'm glad that I learned to do wiring the right way early on. Those are the worst things to see when I'm looking at buying a car or truck. And a "professional" shop did this?


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## SafetyLighting (Jul 23, 2005)

I make a decent amount of money fixing vehicles that have scotchloks installed, LOLOL.


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## kitn1mcc (Sep 15, 2008)

alot of plow shops use them cause they are fast and cheap and dont care 

surpised there was not a plug n play harness


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

kitn1mcc;854755 said:


> alot of plow shops use them cause they are fast and cheap and dont care
> 
> surpised there was not a plug n play harness


there is NEVER a plug and play for the turn signals and parking......headlights only


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## Ketch (Feb 11, 2009)

There's a different glue-lined heat shrink connector that uses a metal alloy with a low melting point as a solder filler out there, we've been field testing them for a few years and they seem to bedoing a fantastic job so far! They work best with an additional piece of heat shrink applied over them. I think Home Depot carries them outside of the distributor networks. Anybody else used them?


















Here's one that's been properly applied:









There's also a super-duper wrap-around end for heat guns just for heat shrink applications, and this company's kit has one on top of the fittings in their nifty little kit:










Good stuff!


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Dissociative;854784 said:


> there is NEVER a plug and play for the turn signals and parking......headlights only


I'm guessing that's because of the wide variety of ever-changing grill styles/designs. Plus they are low amp draw so the installers can get a way with a lousy connection......

.......for a while.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

01CTD2500;854176 said:


> ....every single one should be burnt and recycled into something useful like a water bottle.


Brilliant...


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

The plow was installed with the parts the factory provided and following the factory's instruction. I will say they at least used the "good" tap connectors pre-loaded with di-electric grease. The di-electric ones work well for use low load use in protected areas and do not require the "specialty" tools like crimpers and heat guns in install. They allow the average guy to install the product with out tool investment and they are considerably cheaper. So as long as the customer places price over quality of install they will be the consistent choice of both manufacturers and installers.

http://www.shop3m.com/80610596605.h...ough&WT.mc_id=3M-com-GoogleOneBox-80610596605

They are about one third the cost of a connector like this 
I like these. you can crimp to hold things in place so you can heat it all one shot when finished assembling.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Butt-Connectors/p_791895.a_1


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## naturalgreen (Dec 6, 2008)

Yeah thats how the ass that installed mine did it also. They rape you on installation here since few sell. He also connected the main power to my jumper spot(box connected to alternator) rather than to the battery has anyone seen that before. I have always gone straight to the battery and i also didnt understand this because I have dual batteries.


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## 91AK250 (Nov 28, 2007)

naturalgreen;855245 said:


> Yeah thats how the ass that installed mine did it also. They rape you on installation here since few sell. He also connected the main power to my jumper spot(box connected to alternator) rather than to the battery has anyone seen that before. I have always gone straight to the battery and i also didnt understand this because I have dual batteries.


in some rare cases i'll go to that spot when installing a used wire harness, but normaly i do try to get to a battery directly. but it is said to be a safe location to pull power from so i dont think its an issue.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Always connect the plow motor cables directly to the battery.


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## grec-o-face (Jul 7, 2009)

you've got to be kidding..
What a HACKER!!


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

naturalgreen;855245 said:


> He also connected the main power to my jumper spot(box connected to alternator) rather than to the battery has anyone seen that before.


We move them constantly and not only owner installs, though they are most common.



2COR517;855257 said:


> Always connect the plow motor cable directly to the battery.


And the grounds as well. they are as or more important then the postive feed.


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## 91AK250 (Nov 28, 2007)

we allways ground to the block, nomatter what the case is. again i and apparently my boss's that check them out see no problem with pulling from that box by the alt. i do not see why it would be an issue.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Many years ago when they first appeared they looked like a dream come true, a nice heavy lug easily accessible and allowing a nice clean wire routing. Then they started to bite us in the a$$. Ever had a plow with intermittent power? that won't perform properly in the field but works in the shop? dims the headlights every time you use it but everything tests fine? Change the wiring from the starter feed to the battery. Every inch of wire, every connection requires amperage the more direct the power source the less line loss there will be. That lug is designed to provide power directly to the starter from an outside source not as a power lug.

Engine blocks today contain fasteners made of some strange alloys designed NOT to carry the electrolysis between aluminum and steel that creates the reaction producing the galvanic salt you call battery acid and creating corrosion and deterioration of the aluminum housings. They are very poor conductors and again you have lengthen the path to the power source.

Then the are the manufacturers instructions,and the great number of them on all brands of plows and some other equipment that I have changed resolving previously interment power issues.

We could move on the the effects aftermarket aux. systems can have on the vehicle management computers. Ground spikes burn up tracer paths on circuit boards and fry electronics right and left create static in the radios and alternator failure. 

If it works for you then continue by all means, but I would guess you have intermittent issues that you could solve by changing the power/ground attachment point. For S&Gs get a good inductive amp meter (snap on sells one that will plug right in to your multi meter) and trace the amp draw though a unit wired though the jumper lug circuit and a direct to the battery attachment on the same plow. I think you will be amazed at the difference.


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## naturalgreen (Dec 6, 2008)

Good thanks guys I second guess myself sometimes thinking an installer may know something I dont but I prefer a majority opinion and you guys always have good tech advice. Also gotta say I love the arguing on here. yeah I had to redo everything and upgraded to 4 gauge wire. I had it on the battery and grounds. However I wanted to upgrade the wire from alternator to battery but it is a fusible link. Do I just say f it and ignore the fuseable link and add a larger wire or well to be honest I have no other great options I can think of. No point in removing link.


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## naturalgreen (Dec 6, 2008)

I would say why have another wire in between the battery and plow wire is why I thought it would be bad. this is a reply to why is it not as good to go to anywhere other than battery for plow wire


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

naturalgreen;855346 said:


> ... However I wanted to upgrade the wire from alternator to battery but it is a fusible link. Do I just say f it and ignore the fuseable link and add a larger wire or well to be honest I have no other great options I can think of. No point in removing link.


Get the heavy duty alternator charging kit from Napa. Nice 2 gauge welding wire with a Mega-Fuse holder. Size the fuse according to your alternator's output. The kit includes a 2 gauge ground wire as well.


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## naturalgreen (Dec 6, 2008)

thnx will do


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## Dstosh (Dec 30, 2003)

How did you hook into the turn signal? Cut the orignal wire, strip it, take the plow harness, and twist them together, hook back into the turn signal, solder and shrink wrap?


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

Dstosh;855566 said:


> How did you hook into the turn signal? Cut the orignal wire, strip it, take the plow harness, and twist them together, hook back into the turn signal, solder and shrink wrap?


yeah......that way your water proof....


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Attaching a main plow ground to the engine block is the second worse thing to do next to grounding it to the frame. By doing so you're then depending on the factory ground leads back to the battery to support the electrical draw of the snowplow. And the factory grounds are JUST barely adequate to do their original job as intended without adding a couple hundred extra AMP to the load. A very poor idea, especially on a later model vehicle for reasons Basher already mentioned.


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## Troybaseball21 (Nov 3, 2006)

Ketch;854800 said:


> There's a different glue-lined heat shrink connector that uses a metal alloy with a low melting point as a solder filler out there, we've been field testing them for a few years and they seem to bedoing a fantastic job so far! They work best with an additional piece of heat shrink applied over them. I think Home Depot carries them outside of the distributor networks. Anybody else used them?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Any idea where I can pick up one of those variety packs that you have pictured and for how much? Looks like a decent set.


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## db27 (May 25, 2006)

Its what i would expect from most aftermarket equip installers.
This is the reason i brought my fisher mm2 home new in boxes and did it myself.


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## SafetyLighting (Jul 23, 2005)

Just for the record, I wouldn't wire a plow like that even in Hawaii.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

SafetyLighting;859199 said:


> Just for the record, I wouldn't wire a plow like that even in Hawaii.


I was thinking the same thing


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

db27;859190 said:


> Its what i would expect from most aftermarket equip installers.
> This is the reason i brought my fisher mm2 home new in boxes and did it myself.


But would you pay $500.00 vs $300.00 for an aircraft quality install?


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## Pirsch (Jun 1, 2007)

Hope who ever has that truck is fast with a fire extinguisher! :yow!:


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## Ketch (Feb 11, 2009)

Troybaseball21;858950 said:


> Any idea where I can pick up one of those variety packs that you have pictured and for how much? Looks like a decent set.


Waytek

...and here's an entire assortment of stuff just like that - these folks are fantastic!

http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L01791D5A5621B500C75B062+M37+ENG

Check it out!


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## Hubjeep (Jan 9, 2002)

db27;859190 said:


> Its what i would expect from most aftermarket equip installers.


X2 Soldered and shrink-wrapped would surprise me unless I did it myself.


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

basher;859413 said:


> But would you pay $500.00 vs $300.00 for an aircraft quality install?


hot damn........i need to go apply at Boing....thanks for the compliment!


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## stroker79 (Dec 2, 2006)

Dissociative;867210 said:


> hot damn........i need to go apply at Boing....thanks for the compliment!


Why> so you can make springs all day?

boing boing boing boing boing boing boing boing boing boing boing :bluebounc:redbounce


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Dissociative;867210 said:


> hot damn........i need to go apply at Boing....thanks for the compliment!


If you do all your installs to that level then :salute: but I bet you are not the cheap guy. Which leads back to my point that most do not want to pay the premium price of a premium install. How many threads have you read with someone complaining about the quality of the install in one thread while bragging about driving 100 miles and saving $400.00 in another.


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

basher;867730 said:


> I bet you are not the cheap guy.


 ..............................


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## cpsnowremoval (Oct 28, 2009)

quick connects are da best lol


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

And that is why NO ONE touches my trucks but me and a very select few (and B&B if he lived closer lol)! My uncle just bought an 06 2500HD with a MM? plow already installed on it. He'll be bringing that by in the coming week or two for me to go through and install some type of warning light on, i hope the wiring looks good or else i'll be starting from square one!


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

it's really depressing because it's from someone on here that sells an AWFUL lot of plows and really should know better....


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