# Refurbishing fisher plow



## nichols (May 17, 2006)

I have a minute mount 1 that I'm looking to refurbish. The sheet metal on the blade was in pretty bad shape once I started sanding it down and removing the powdercoat, so I broke off / cut / ground off the old sheet metal.

I have a piece of new 12 gauge steel cut to the correct size, but I have NO clue how to bend it to fit. Anyone have any home garage methods that work?


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

Have teh steel shop use a press brake. That is what I did. Small bends every inch. Worked out well.


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## Bigblue250 (Oct 23, 2003)

I usually make up a wooden template of the curve. Take it to the steel yard with me and have them roll tke plate right there.


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## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

i would have it rolled . will look much better and function better in the end. xysport


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

Generally pretty hard to find a shop with a roller bigger then 4ft. So you will have to get 2 pieces and then weld them together.

From more then two feet away you can't tell thyy were bent on the brake and having done 4 of tehm I can tell you it makes no difference in the functionality of the plow.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

You can just weld the seam use two parts then add a linner on the plow for a non stick surface


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Non stick pic


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

Problem with that is now you have created an surface that is not easy to get to to clean. Junk will get stuck between the liner and the steel actually causing it to rust faster.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

nichols said:


> I have a minute mount 1 that I'm looking to refurbish. The sheet metal on the blade was in pretty bad shape once I started sanding it down and removing the powdercoat, so I broke off / cut / ground off the old sheet metal.
> 
> I have a piece of new 12 gauge steel cut to the correct size, but I have NO clue how to bend it to fit. Anyone have any home garage methods that work?


they have powder coating on a mm1???? should not be rusty then.


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## Bruce'sEx (Sep 16, 2006)

Just out of interest, but has anyone looked into what a new mold board cost anyways? Are you really saving money in the end?
We might need to do the same in a couple years with one of our plows if we don't replace it before then.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

For a 8' Fisher you have to buy a moldboard and a-frame because they changed the style. $1600 new. Some of the LD type blades can't be found except NOS. 

If you can find a good used blade it can be a deal if it is solid. 

My steel cost $250 including some extra ribs I put in and a full day of work, so I would say I am way ahead.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Upon futher review LOL If you look close you see the non stick cover slides in for easy removal and they dont get build up behind them. The total cost for my rehab was about 100 bucks and they are better than new with 10 gauge steal not 14 gauge adding more weight for down pressure.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

You better pull that and clean it after every storm. A guy here did it with his new Western (He thought it would last longer) Blade was rusted through in middle of second season. The gap just made more stuff get stuck further into the center of the blade.


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## nichols (May 17, 2006)

brad96z28 said:


> they have powder coating on a mm1???? should not be rusty then.


It was a blade made around '98 or '99, so it was towards the end of the MM1. The problem is the powdercoat wasn't the best (and I've heard a bunch of this generation of plow had similar issues) and there are a LOT of places where it was bubbling up where moisture was trapped between the powdercoat and the steel, which ate away at it, and there were a lot of places where it had rusted right through on the top edge.

The more I got into it, the worse condition I found, unfortunately.

I found a local place that should be able to bend it for me. Using a wood template is a great idea - I'll probably fab one of those up tomorrow and bring it over with me to the shop on Monday.

Thanks!


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