# Heres an idea...



## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

I was thinkin the other day about how we could make our meyer straight blade more efficient for backdragging and pictured the following: Mount a 12VDC electric actuator to base of the plow where it swivels and mounts to the a-frame and the other end to a pusharm welded to the plow frame/moldboard to allow the blade to pivot forward as it would to trip over an obstacle, thus causing the cutting edge to be vertical and better for scraping during backdragging.

my biggest question is how much pressure do the trip springs exert when properly tensioned? i need to know this to see how much pressure the actuator has to exert to overcome them. the rest is pretty simple.

so whatcha all think?


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

For all that work ,it would be easier to put a Boss on it.


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## KGRlandscapeing (May 2, 2007)

grandview;871610 said:


> For all that work ,it would be easier to put a Boss on it.


orrrrrrr buy a backdrag edge


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Sounds good, doesn't it?

Read post 25.....

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?p=853574&highlight=curb#post853574


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## hydro_37 (Sep 10, 2006)

Buy a Sno-Way that has "down pressure"


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## wdcs1 (Nov 12, 2009)

hydro_37;871762 said:


> Buy a Sno-Way that has "down pressure"


How much down pressure does a snow way exert.


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## fourspeedfish (Nov 18, 2005)

Do you have a specific actuator in mind?


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

idk yet, thats y i need to know the pressure of the springs.


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## fourspeedfish (Nov 18, 2005)

I guess i dont understand how it would be mounted, The actuator / cylinder would have to float when not in use, since the mold board still needs to trip.

I do agree, if you could tip the blade forward an inch or 2, i bet it would backdrag a lot nicer.


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## hydro_37 (Sep 10, 2006)

wdcs1;874466 said:


> How much down pressure does a snow way exert.


Not sure on the exact number but it will take all the weight off the front suspension.
Won't lift the tires off the ground but it is enough to scrape to bare pavement.


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

fourspeedfish;878188 said:


> I guess i dont understand how it would be mounted, The actuator / cylinder would have to float when not in use, since the mold board still needs to trip.


It wouldnt need to be bolted to both ends, it could float into like a recieving cup or whatever on one end, ill draw somethin up...


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

Here, a 5 min rough draft of my idea, at the a frame, the unit pushes into and pivots in a cup like unit, if plow needs to trip, it simply lifts out of the cup and when it resets, returns into the cup.


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

I would mount the cup on the plow and the actuator on the frame.. less mas to get thrown around and the actuator wont be slammed around when the blade trips.


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

that was my original plan, but i would need to figure out how to reinforce it


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

How do you intend to power the cylinder?


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

electric actuator, this kinda thing, note that these arent necessarily going to be be the ones I use, but just to give yall an idea:


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

From post #12 the idea will not work. All you will do is put stress between the king pin and the top of the blade. The actuator needs to sit between the A frame and the lifting bracket on the truck.


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

breadoflife;871607 said:


> I was thinkin the other day about how we could make our meyer straight blade more efficient for backdragging and pictured the following: Mount a 12VDC electric actuator to base of the plow where it swivels and mounts to the a-frame and the other end to a pusharm welded to the plow frame/moldboard to allow the blade to pivot forward as it would to trip over an obstacle, thus causing the cutting edge to be vertical and better for scraping during backdragging.
> 
> my biggest question is how much pressure do the trip springs exert when properly tensioned? i need to know this to see how much pressure the actuator has to exert to overcome them. the rest is pretty simple.
> 
> so whatcha all think?


Good idea!



DAFFMOBILEWASH;879110 said:


> From post #12 the idea will not work. All you will do is put stress between the king pin and the top of the blade. The actuator needs to sit between the A frame and the lifting bracket on the truck.


?


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## fourspeedfish (Nov 18, 2005)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;879110 said:


> From post #12 the idea will not work. All you will do is put stress between the king pin and the top of the blade. The actuator needs to sit between the A frame and the lifting bracket on the truck.


That would be correct if you are trying to use it as a down pressure system.

His idea is to use it to tip the blade forward and inch or 2 so the cutting edge sits at 90 degrees to the ground.


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## fourspeedfish (Nov 18, 2005)

breadoflife;878750 said:


> Here, a 5 min rough draft of my idea, at the a frame, the unit pushes into and pivots in a cup like unit, if plow needs to trip, it simply lifts out of the cup and when it resets, returns into the cup.


I was sorta thinking the same thing about a cup idea with the cup mounted on the board.

I would think it would be better to mount the actuator on an angle vs. strait up.??

I also think you would need a beefy actuator. All the pressure from back dragging, trip springs, ect, will be on the actuator itself and your mounting setup.


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

fourspeedfish;879330 said:


> I also think you would need a beefy actuator. All the pressure from back dragging, trip springs, ect, will be on the actuator itself and your mounting setup.


Actually, think about it, back dragging will actually take pressure off the actuator, all that it would be fighting against is the trip springs. Also, the A-Frame isnt beefy enough for me to use the actuator to transfer the ruck weight, nor would an actuator be strong enough to do so without serious damage. Yes, it would be mounted at an angle, but the arm welded to the moldboard(which would house the "cup") also adds some angle to it, depending on how long it is.


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## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

They already make such a thing, I saw it in that Mill Supply company. They sell plow parts, markers etc. Its a shock looking thing that tips the moldboard forward and locks it in, in that position.


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## Duncan90si (Feb 16, 2007)

grandview;871610 said:


> For all that work ,it would be easier to put a Boss on it.





KGRlandscapeing;871621 said:


> orrrrrrr buy a backdrag edge





hydro_37;871762 said:


> Buy a Sno-Way that has "down pressure"


Or better yet, buy a C-Plow. 
http://www.hiniker.com/snow_products/hp_cplow.html


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Brian Young;879790 said:


> They already make such a thing, I saw it in that Mill Supply company. They sell plow parts, markers etc. Its a shock looking thing that tips the moldboard forward and locks it in, in that position.


You're misunderstanding the concept of those Triplocks, that isn't what they do. They're nothing more than a glorified trip shock to add resistance to the trip action. They're nothing more and don't allow you to psychically "lock" the moldboard in any other configuration.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Love to see an electric actuator that would take the abuse of the moldboard coming back and whacking it every time the blade trips.

Good concept but you design needs much more engineering.


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

B&B;879848 said:


> Love to see an electric actuator that would take the abuse of the moldboard coming back and whacking it every time the blade trips.
> 
> Good concept but you design needs much more engineering.


How about having the actuator sitting 1/2 below the cup when not activated. Then it wont take the hit.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

theplowmeister;879964 said:


> How about having the actuator sitting 1/2 below the cup when not activated. Then it wont take the hit.


I was thinking the same thing as I was opened the thread.

Still doesn't keep the actuator from getting pounded on when backdragging. And how long does it take to extend/retract one of those things?


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

the rates vary, but yea i was thinking about the moldboard return issue, so yea, having it sit bout 1" off of contact would be fine.


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## JoeCool (Oct 29, 2009)

The back-drag edge is your best solution. All the effort you will put in will only result in a mediocre result. More work than benefit. Interesting solution though.


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## breadoflife (Oct 21, 2009)

i thought it might be worth a try...but yea


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

JoeCool;879996 said:


> More work than benefit.


My point exactly. They still don't back drag worth a damn with the moldboard pitched forward, because I've done it before.


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## palmtree907 (Sep 25, 2009)

the sno way claims to exert 2500# of down pressure. I'm 3 events into the season with my new snoway 26 and wish I still had my blizzard 760LT.the mass of the Blizzard did a better job than the down pressure.


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## terrapro (Oct 21, 2006)

Why don't you get a valve box with an extra valve and run another hydro line to get some real power?


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