# Plow blocks air flow...temps rise!



## yardatwork (Jan 21, 2009)

I know this is an ongoing issue for most of us plowers. When the blade is on the temperature rise on warmer days...days above freezing. I'm constantly trying to find the right spot to have my plow while driving. Has anyone ever tried drilling holes across the center of the blade where the radiator would be to increase the air flow? I don't think a few 3/4" holes would interfere with the integrity of the plows strength. Could I be on to something? Is it worth the try? Would a few holes even make a difference. I'm running a 2006 Chevy 2500HD with a 7.5' Western UniMount. Since I have the UniMount I have the extra length from blade to truck frame...UltraMount to UniMount adapter...maybe this extra distance is a slight issue? Thanks guy...stay warm and be safe out there.


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## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Do you have the upgraded fan clutch? Holes in the blade is a bad idea as it gives surfaces for rust and rot to start and you'll be losing snow through the blade and you'll never really be able to clean it up.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

I would have to say that you have a problem with your truck. Mine do not overheat I never even think about that. 
I like the Clutch Fan Idea, I replaced the fan clutch on my trucks with HD units when I got them.


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## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Its actually a Chevy problem too...the 6.0s without plow prep generally need an upgraded clutch.


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## golfcar (Nov 2, 2011)

I had a 2004 Chevy 3500 with 6.0 and never could keep it cool with blade up even at outside temps below 20 degrees.


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## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

My 04 6.0 has plow prep and an upgraded fan clutch and has no problem keeping cool.


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## golfcar (Nov 2, 2011)

2006Sierra1500;1676202 said:


> My 04 6.0 has plow prep and an upgraded fan clutch and has no problem keeping cool.


I knew another guy that never had a problem with his either, but the one I had would not stay cool with the plow on it and up. It had plow prep and the dealer changed the fan clutch put a larger fan and changed the plastic shroud [under warrenty] so the larger fan wouldn't rub. Shipped that truck with 29000 miles on it.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

Its a GM problem and been that way since my 1981 Chevy 

I run Fords now never had a problem


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

Get the new fan clutch and your problem will go away. East fix .


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

I dont have a gm truck but I did have overheat issues untill I found out that I didnt have the plow prep package. Once I installed the plow prep fan clutch, all is well with the temps. Due to disturbed airflow, some fans could possibly rotate backwards. The upgraded clutch keeps the fan engaged more at lower rpm. As a fix temporarily you could run the blade straight and drop it down as much as possible. Thumbs Up


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## 2006Sierra1500 (Dec 28, 2011)

Thats how I run it on the 06...no plow prep with a 7'6'' HD. Run it straight and about halfway up and it stays cool too.


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## GARRETTWOOD (Feb 3, 2005)

Fan clutch, had same problem on 2 GMC trucks. Replaced clutch and all is good.


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## xgiovannix12 (Dec 8, 2012)

Mine likes to get warm too. I never knew that a heavy duty fan clutch would fix this.


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## the05goat (Sep 28, 2012)

I have a 03 2500hd 6.0 while driving with blade up my temp usually hovers just under the 200 mark how high are the temps your seeing?


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

hd fan clutch, and maybe a switched electric fan in front of the radiator like the camper special pkgs


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## MikeJee (Nov 22, 2013)

How hot is too hot? Yes I know if you pull the dipstick and it smells burnt, duh, definitely not good. What would you say, about 240-250?

To anyone: What does your tranny gauge read at it's peak temp when pushing snow? 

No problems with my 1500, it gets up to 215 when it's plowing hard for an extended period, when I take a spin or idle for 10 mins it cools right down to the 170-190 range, depending how cold it is outside...etc.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

240-250 is too hot. 215 is okay as long as its cooling right down when not working hard...coolant wise. Most engines have a 185-195 thermostat. 

Transmission, I'd try to stay under 200. Mine runs 150-170 on my ford. I know... Apples an oranges...
Over 200 though, you are getting close to its boiling point and the system is not under pressure.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

So the problem here has to do with physics/aerodynamics, its not a "GM" thing really, its a PLOW thing.

If you take an airplane wing, it doesn't wedge up against the air to ride up like a boat planes out on water. Rather the surface area on the top of the wing is longer than on the bottom, causing the air to move a greater distance. In aerodynamics, high velocity = low pressure, highER velocity = lowER pressure.

In a normal vehicle, the front is open for air to ram straight into, so just by moving forward, you get air flow across the radiator and the engine will cool. Past the grill on the front, a car comes much closer to resembling an airplane wing. Or at least a cross section of one, air flows a greater distance on the top compared to the bottom, and you end up with a small amount of lift.

With a plow on however, the plow BLOCKS the radiator, so the airplane wing cross section starts way up there, about 4 feet ahead of the radiator. The interesting thing, is because the air flows outward -- FAST -- it actually creates a vacuum in the area between the plow and the radiator. Sometimes, you can actually get air sucking out the radiator BACKWARDS.

The problem with this, is that the fan clutch locks up when it gets HOT. Because the air is flowing in the wrong direction across the radiator, it is actually getting COOLED by the cold air under the truck. That cold air gets drawn across the fan clutch, then the radiator, then out and UP over the hood. The fan clutch never engages.

Now the fan clutch has another source of heat -- the engine itself, because it is bolted onto the water pump. Now you are battling to see which dominates -- the heat from the water pump, or the cold from the air.

A simple trick you can use to adjust this in favor of the heat from the water pump is this; INSULATE the clutch and the shaft running from it to the water pump. Just stop (as much) cold air from cooling off the fan clutch, and it will help lock it up.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

Back when I had overheating issues on the 77 F250, I was planning to cut flip up doors in the plow. It would have required me getting in and out to open or close and pin them, but that was better than killing the 351M. 
I even had a plan to make the thing a hydraulic activated sliding door system. Would have been a series of 2" wide by 12" tall slits in between the braces of the Fisher speedcast...a hole drilled through them for the rod that was moved by the hydraulic piston..think of a stove's draft that slides open or shut...if that makes any sense. Piston would have had a 2" stroke...if I could have found one that small. Never occured to my 20 year old mind that a $50 electric fan would have fixed it..

Anyway, my F250 has the plow prep, like all Superdutys. Needle on the guage never moves after it is warmed up.

If the HD fan does not help you, then I would remove it and install an electric fan that attaches to the radiator and runs off a thermostat in the hose. That would cure the issue for good.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

jasonv;1676692 said:


> So the problem here has to do with physics/aerodynamics, its not a "GM" thing really, its a PLOW thing.
> 
> If you take an airplane wing, it doesn't wedge up against the air to ride up like a boat planes out on water. Rather the surface area on the top of the wing is longer than on the bottom, causing the air to move a greater distance. In aerodynamics, high velocity = low pressure, highER velocity = lowER pressure.
> 
> ...



It was ok until the last two paragraphs. And the vacuum you claim in between the plow and the front of the truck isn't as significant as you think. The fan can overcome it easily.

Insulate the clutch? Really? 

For people with overheating issues, run the plow lower. Never had a problem with my unimount, but my meyer V2 sometimes warms up the truck on the highway, because it's so tall. I run it a few inches off the ground and I'm fine, even on warm days.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

I have to agree it was ok but I also fell of the wagon at "insulate the clutch".

How about take the clutch out? Put in a spacer.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

maxwellp;1676746 said:


> I have to agree it was ok but I also fell of the wagon at "insulate the clutch".
> 
> How about take the clutch out? Put in a spacer.


Maybe someone should design aftermarket pulleys that could go on extreme use plow vehicles. But instead of being undersized to change speed, they could reverse direction! Then you could send the air out the front, like the OEM should have designed for vehicles that see extreme use while plowing! And they could some with some fiberglass insulation to protect them from the smokin' hot water pump.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

yardatwork;1676184 said:


> I know this is an ongoing issue for most of us plowers. When the blade is on the temperature rise on warmer days...days above freezing. I'm constantly trying to find the right spot to have my plow while driving. Has anyone ever tried drilling holes across the center of the blade where the radiator would be to increase the air flow? I don't think a few 3/4" holes would interfere with the integrity of the plows strength. Could I be on to something? Is it worth the try? Would a few holes even make a difference. I'm running a 2006 Chevy 2500HD with a 7.5' Western UniMount. Since I have the UniMount I have the extra length from blade to truck frame...UltraMount to UniMount adapter...maybe this extra distance is a slight issue? Thanks guy...stay warm and be safe out there.


As has been mentioned, drilling holes isn't the greatest concept for a number of reasons. There are methods though, assuming your cooling system is up to snuff, of supplementing the air flow with the plow up.

I choose to just carry my plow fairly low to the ground, and this solves my problems. However, if that is not enough for you, or if you need the ground clearance, you can try something like this:

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=53283

Search air deflector on this forum, and there are a number of other similar threads for your enjoyment.


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## yardatwork (Jan 21, 2009)

I do run my plow lower. But here in the sticks of Pennsylvania, we have a lot of bumpy back roads...constant plow bouncing and hitting the road. I'm always on the joystick moving the plow up and down. Main highways I'm fine having it about 2" - 4" off the ground. But, my temp still rises occasionally. I know about the clutch and additional fan I manually turn off and on. The hole drilling idea was just a simple easy fix if it would work. As far as "rotting" the plow...hmmm...salt takes care of that anyway and it wouldn't rot the plow fast enough to be a concern. Snow also wouldn't go pouring through 3/4" holes. The first push would probably plug the holes up anyway. I would then need to poke them open for driving back on the highway. I'm just surprised no plow company has ever designed a plow in such a way to overcome blocking the radiator.


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## Jguck25 (Oct 30, 2009)

chevys are so cute =)


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## golfcar (Nov 2, 2011)

jasonv;1676692 said:


> So the problem here has to do with physics/aerodynamics, its not a "GM" thing really, its a PLOW thing.
> 
> If you take an airplane wing, it doesn't wedge up against the air to ride up like a boat planes out on water. Rather the surface area on the top of the wing is longer than on the bottom, causing the air to move a greater distance. In aerodynamics, high velocity = low pressure, highER velocity = lowER pressure.
> 
> ...


In my case same plow, different truck=problem solved


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...an+2012+2003&gclid=CI2K6rzEnLsCFbBAMgodYnAAmw
I would just add an aftermarket electric fan. Even a small one would probably cure the issue....and in the middle of a july heat wave it couldn't hurt! 
Another thing that may or may not be possible is to temporarily relocate the ac condenser so more air gets to the radiator.


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## mikeplowman (Jul 20, 2011)

put new fan clutch in.
i had same problem and new fan clutch fixed it ALL


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

jasonv;1676692 said:


> So the problem here has to do with physics/aerodynamics, its not a "GM" thing really, its a PLOW thing.
> 
> If you take an airplane wing, it doesn't wedge up against the air to ride up like a boat planes out on water. Rather the surface area on the top of the wing is longer than on the bottom, causing the air to move a greater distance. In aerodynamics, high velocity = low pressure, highER velocity = lowER pressure.
> 
> ...


Maybe that's why the fords don't overheat? They use an Electro-viscous type fan clutch.... The PCM decides when it's time to run the fan, and fan speed. No insulation needed...


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## snowpro44 (Oct 31, 2013)

Really!!! Drill holes in your plow!!! lol..thats crazy!!like everyone has said..clutch fan??eletric fan?? where do these guy get these hairbrain Ideas!!


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## chachi1984 (Feb 10, 2012)

keep your heat on all the time in your truck and it won't over heat.
I always have the heat on when the plows on and the engine temp is the same as if the plow was off the truck


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Jguck25;1676836 said:


> chevys are so cute =)


Not only are they better looking - they have better engines, transmissions, front ends, interiors, seats........the list goes on and on. Oh yeah, they ride and handle great too.


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## yardatwork (Jan 21, 2009)

snowpro44;1676955 said:


> Really!!! Drill holes in your plow!!! lol..thats crazy!!like everyone has said..clutch fan??eletric fan?? where do these guy get these hairbrain Ideas!!


Hairbrain idea? Then give some insight instead of insult. Why is it a bad idea??? Hairbrain ideas are the reason you even have a plow. Someone came up with a "hairbrain" idea to mount a metal blade to a vehicle many years ago for pushing snow. That "hairbrain" idea is now the reason you have a hydraulic powered plow that you can operate from inside your truck. Hairbrain ideas have created EVERYTHING we use today.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

yardatwork;1678945 said:


> Hairbrain idea? Then give some insight instead of insult. Why is it a bad idea??? Hairbrain ideas are the reason you even have a plow. Someone came up with a "hairbrain" idea to mount a metal blade to a vehicle many years ago for pushing snow. That "hairbrain" idea is now the reason you have a hydraulic powered plow that you can operate from inside your truck. Hairbrain ideas have created EVERYTHING we use today.


You asked for inputs, you are getting inputs. Some inputs, you may not agree with. People have posted suggestions on possible defective parts you should consider replacing. People have also posted commercial solutions available that would not require modifying and potentially reducing the capability of your snowplow. If you want to drill holes in the plow, go ahead. It's your plow.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

07PSDCREW;1676925 said:


> Maybe that's why the fords don't overheat? They use an Electro-viscous type fan clutch.... The PCM decides when it's time to run the fan, and fan speed. No insulation needed...


That sounds interesting. It sure would solve that problem.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

jb1390;1676741 said:


> It was ok until the last two paragraphs. And the vacuum you claim in between the plow and the front of the truck isn't as significant as you think. The fan can overcome it easily.
> 
> Insulate the clutch? Really?
> 
> For people with overheating issues, run the plow lower. Never had a problem with my unimount, but my meyer V2 sometimes warms up the truck on the highway, because it's so tall. I run it a few inches off the ground and I'm fine, even on warm days.


If you don't believe me, TRY IT.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

jasonv;1680054 said:


> If you don't believe me, TRY IT.


First, I don't need to try it because I don't have overheating issues. Second, I don't need to try it because I have a Bachelor of Science in Mechanical Engineering, and know that your theory is not based in reality.


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

jb1390;1680067 said:


> First, I don't need to try it because I don't have overheating issues. Second, I don't need to try it because I have a Bachelor of Science in Mechanical Engineering, and know that your theory is not based in reality.


I congratulate you on completing an undergrad. Do you intend to continue at school to earn something more distinguishing, like a Masters or PhD?

A little advice; throwing your level of education into the mix probably isn't the best way to handle this kind of discussion. In particular, doing so welcomes others to do the same, and most likely (since you only have an undergrad....) this will result in you finding that others around you are actually more educated than you are. The end result is effectively an unverifiable *****-measuring contest. Consider yourself fortunate that I'm not at all interested in playing this silly game. The places to talk about your education are on your resume, business cards, and website. Being educated myself, you can appreciate that I know fully that having a degree does not actually prove anything except that you have a degree.

So tell you what.. How about you actually go and research it before you continue to prove your lack of understanding? I will offer this hint for you to complete your research; thermal-viscous coupling. It also wouldn't hurt for you to actually LOOK at a fan clutch, in order to understand how they actually work.

For example; why do you think that thermal-viscous fan clutches are attached to the water pump? Do you think that it is just because the water pump is conveniently located right at the most convenient point on the front of the engine? Or do you think that there might actually be a more important reason why the water pump is directly in-line with the fan? If there isn't something special about the water pump, then any old pulley would do just as well. And for that matter, it would be a lot easier to have the water pump located anywhere EXCEPT the front-middle of the engine. Have you ever tried changing a water pump? Its not a fun task. If not for being in that specific location, however, it would be as simple as changing an alternator.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

jasonv;1680957 said:


> I congratulate you on completing an undergrad. Do you intend to continue at school to earn something more distinguishing, like a Masters or PhD?
> 
> A little advice; throwing your level of education into the mix probably isn't the best way to handle this kind of discussion. In particular, doing so welcomes others to do the same, and most likely (since you only have an undergrad....) this will result in you finding that others around you are actually more educated than you are. The end result is effectively an unverifiable *****-measuring contest. Consider yourself fortunate that I'm not at all interested in playing this silly game. The places to talk about your education are on your resume, business cards, and website. Being educated myself, you can appreciate that I know fully that having a degree does not actually prove anything except that you have a degree.
> 
> ...


This is getting ridiculous. First, what's your engineering background just for the record for anyone reading?

Second, my duramax has a gear driven water pump, it is not attached to the fan. I imagine that it is probably not the only motor ever designed like that, so yes, the fan is located on the water pump primarily for convenience. And changing the one on a duramax is a b!tch. Yes I've done it.

Third, where your theory goes way off track is the assumption that the cool air is being pulled from underneath the truck in a significant enough volume to affect the bimetallic strip on the front of the fan? Can you tell me, without wikipedia, how that strip works? If there was enough cold air flowing through that area to affect the strip, you wouldn't have an overheating problem. People that have issues with overheating 1: have a faulty fan with a poor internal fluid/mechanical connection, or 2: have a vehicle with a fan incapable of pulling the amount of required air through the radiator, fully coupled or not. Your insulation idea won't do a [email protected] thing if the valve internal to the fan is already opened, which it will be on an overheating truck with a plow going down the road.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

My fan is not on the water pump, And with these cold temps I cover the whole radiator except the part by the trans cooler. Still only runs right at 185 F.


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## jomama45 (Dec 25, 2008)

Why stop at insulating your clutch fan?

I've been insulating the my u-joints for years so I don't have to buy two kinds of grease...........

I'm also thinking of insulating my tires next so I don't have to constantly fight that stupid tire monitor BS flashing light when it's cold.......


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

I should insulate my fuel tank, the cold fuel made my lift pump crap out.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

maxwellp;1682065 said:


> I should insulate my fuel tank, the cold fuel made my lift pump crap out.


That's why you should always attach your lift pump directly to the water pump! To hell with convenience, why do you think manufacturers used mechanical lift pumps connected to the engine for so many years? To take advantage of the radiant heat of course!


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## bartolini (Sep 11, 2009)

For people with overheating issues, run the plow lower. Never had a problem with my unimount, but my meyer V2 sometimes warms up the truck on the highway, because it's so tall. I run it a few inches off the ground and I'm fine, even on warm days.[/QUOTE]

The world is simple and perfect if it were only one driver, the owner. But a real boss has a responsibility to not give a ******** worker the opportunity to fry a tranny bc he cant lower a plow at highway speed at 40 degrees at 11am after a 12" dump cleanup all night and morning.

Even 2007 chevy dura diesel allitranny can get fried. Even a 2008 f550 diesel tranny can get fried. Oh the pain when neither had more than 40,000 miles and snow plow prep packages.

Is additional electric fan aftermarket a good solution or will 3 well placed holes on 9ft fisher be enough relief? Who cares about a little dribble. Bet the holes clog while plowing and blow out at highway speed.


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