# plow blocking airflow!!



## Dcon (Nov 18, 2004)

*Plow Blocking Airflow!!!*

My brother has a 2004 silverado 3/4 hd gas. he just put a boss v plow on it and has a problem with the plow blocking air flow to his radiator. has tried to move plow in any position, but doesn't make any difference??? any suggestions.???


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## btrussell (Oct 16, 2004)

I have a half ton with a straight blade and have the same problem. I just go slow and try to keep the temp below 220. Looking into an electric fan that will draw more air through the radiator.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Dcon said:


> My brother has a 2004 silverado 3/4 hd gas. he just put a boss v plow on it and has a problem with the plow blocking air flow to his radiator. has tried to move plow in any position, but doesn't make any difference??? any suggestions.???


You need more agressive clutch fan timing for a good fix. GM is getting kinda a conservative (late engagement temps) to maximize MPG and the air going through core in cold weather never gets warm enough for it to function properly in stock form.


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## deluxeco (Nov 20, 2002)

1 2003 and two 2004 hd2500 and one 2004 hd3500 4x4's all with 8.2 and 9.2 power v's rt2 and 3's all gas no overheat problems at all..go see your dealer and explain the problem,you bought a plow truck tell them to fix it....


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## lawnmedic (Jan 9, 2004)

Do a search on this it gets brought up occasionally. Seem them UAW workers never take the time to change out the fan clutch on engines going into trucks with plow preps. A good dealer will find bulletin and change out the clutch under warranty..


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

I have a blizzard, not a boss, but still had the same problem. I just installed an airfoil on the top of the plow. It's a simple idea that just reroutes the air back into the radiator where it belongs. I haven't had the chance to try it out, but the dealer said a few guys have them and it's corrected their problem. Good luck.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

I had this problem on one plow truck several years ago. I upgraded the clutch fan hub and the problem when away and never came back. The real fix is in the proper clutch hub not rerouted "air flow".


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## scottL (Dec 7, 2002)

fan clutches help, so does lowering your plow and an air foil. When I added a simple piece of metal to catch and direct the air into the radiator things were much happier!


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

scottL said:


> fan clutches help, so does lowering your plow and an air foil. When I added a simple piece of metal to catch and direct the air into the radiator things were much happier!


Still a bandaid fix because if proper clutch fan calibration is used there will be no problems. My temp gauge never really moves winter of summer plow or not on my newest truck but I can the the clutch fan working sometimes even in cold weather.


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## Buckeye Chuck (Nov 22, 2004)

Some guys take off their air dams instead of cutting them to fit the plow. I been told that can cause your truck to get hot.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Buckeye Chuck said:


> Some guys take off their air dams instead of cutting them to fit the plow. I been told that can cause your truck to get hot.


If it is true it is only because GM is using very conservative clutch timing on FAN to maximize MPG that last fraction of a gallon on its truck fleet average. If the clutch timing is aggressive enough, it is not a issue. They need to start making them a bit more like trucks and less like cars.


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## Buckeye Chuck (Nov 22, 2004)

Tarkus said:


> I had this problem on one plow truck several years ago. I upgraded the clutch fan hub and the problem when away and never came back. The real fix is in the proper clutch hub not rerouted "air flow".


Did you modify the hub, like make it bigger or did you buy a different one. Are their kits or accessories out their to change it?


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Buckeye Chuck said:


> Did you modify the hub, like make it bigger or did you buy a different one. Are their kits or accessories out their to change it?


With GM you can "adjust" the hub. (you can with most of them anyway) There is a bymetal spring on front of hub that controls clutch and if you tweak it you can change engagement temps. I did not have to tweak my newer 1 ton but a did a older GM truck I also have.


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## Buckeye Chuck (Nov 22, 2004)

Tarkus said:


> With GM you can "adjust" the hub. (you can with most of them anyway) There is a bymetal spring on front of hub that controls clutch and if you tweak it you can change engagement temps. I did not have to tweak my newer 1 ton but a did a older GM truck I also have.


Cool, thanks, I'll have an idea what to do if things get warm.


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## repo_man62 (Oct 24, 2004)

*Air flow*

Look at my thread in pictures.


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## sierra02 (Sep 14, 2004)

I have a 2002 1/2 ton that had the same trouble. The dealer changed the fan clutch to solve this problem. If you know your service manager well they should be able to get this covered under warranty some how.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Buckeye Chuck said:


> Cool, thanks, I'll have an idea what to do if things get warm.


Just remember that a little bit goes a long way when you tweak it. Looking at hub for coil side you need to move the coils "tab" position about 1/16 or so further to the right (clockwise) to lower engagement temps (make clutch more agreesive. If you move it too much (abouy 3/16 to 1/4 inch) it will be engaged all of the time. It is a bit sensitive to adjustment but quite doable. I can post a pic about this if need be.


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## Buckeye Chuck (Nov 22, 2004)

Okay............... if I have a problem I'll let service know because it does have plow prep and they should be able to take care of it, it shouldn't be overheating. If they act stupid I'll inform them or do it myself.

Thanks all!


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Buckeye Chuck said:


> Okay............... if I have a problem I'll let service know because it does have plow prep and they should be able to take care of it, it shouldn't be overheating. If they act stupid I'll inform them or do it myself.
> 
> Thanks all!


Hey I agree here since it has a snow prep package. I am just letting you know you can "fix it" yourself if they give you the run around thats all.


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## bersh (Dec 12, 2003)

Tarkus said:


> Just remember that a little bit goes a long way when you tweak it. Looking at hub for coil side you need to move the coils "tab" position about 1/16 or so further to the right (clockwise) to lower engagement temps (make clutch more agreesive. If you move it too much (abouy 3/16 to 1/4 inch) it will be engaged all of the time. It is a bit sensitive to adjustment but quite doable. I can post a pic about this if need be.


If you could post a picture of this, that would be great!

Thanks,

Scott


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

bersh said:


> If you could post a picture of this, that would be great!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott


I did scroll through this thread

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=20226


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## bersh (Dec 12, 2003)

Tarkus said:


> I did scroll through this thread
> 
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=20226


Thanks. That's quite a thread, I love how people jump all over you for trying to help.

To bend the spring, are you bending just the little tab that goes in the slot, or the entire spring? Also, just grab it with needle nose pliars and twist?

Thanks,
Scott


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

bersh said:


> Thanks. That's quite a thread, I love how people jump all over you for trying to help.
> 
> To bend the spring, are you bending just the little tab that goes in the slot, or the entire spring? Also, just grab it with needle nose pliars and twist?
> 
> ...


Sorry about delay answering, I have been busy. There are always those that reject the unknown. I "bend" whole spring but you could just try tweaking the end tab with needlenose pliers.


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