# Hot Hubs?



## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

No, not hot like stolen. no they were not locked in, but that should not matter either.

Drove the truck(97 F250, my avatar) today, not been drove far for several months, brought it back home and was greasing the front end, plow and anything that moved to get ready for winter.

As I was getting up after greasing the font, I leaned on the front hub (lock in/out) and it was warm to the touch, I went over to the other side and it was the same. 

I do not think this is normal, I had the front apart 2 years ago replacing the ball joints and I checked everything, repacked the bearings and put it back together. I have had more front ends apart then most people have locked in as I owned and managed auto repair shops for almost 20 years before I got out of the business. Most people in my area will not work on front ends, will not even replace the rotors on a 4x4, so I got all that work. So its not like I did not know what I was doing (just to clear that up).

Anyway, I have never seen this except on a bad bearing, they check out fine, roll fine and no noise although I did not pull them apart. 

Anyone else had this happen? I think its odd, and as soon as it drys up a little outside I am going to pull it apart to check it out correctly...


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## unhcp (Jan 20, 2010)

how about the brakes maybe the calliper is not releasing properly?


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## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

unhcp;1372661 said:


> how about the brakes maybe the calliper is not releasing properly?


I thought about that, but it stops just fine. There is no pulling to either side and it stops just fine with out acting up.

But I did just now think about the front brakes working a little harder since my rears are worn and should to be replaced. That my be it, the heat transferring through the whole hub assembly due to the front brakes working harder then the rear, and I live in a "large" city..


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

Warm is normal in my experience. Tires, brakes, bearings all have some friction which create heat. When they get hot than that is a different story. Actually that is the first way to tell if you have something wrong. Check your rims if one is hotter than the others than there is an issue. The bearings and seals should be checked and repacked every season and the brakes should be taken apart and checked also. On a plow truck the brake pads will rot and separate and the calipers will get sticky way more frequently than a regular vehicle. I've gotten in the habit of doing this a least twice a year. We replace the brakes every two. They are never worn out, just the salt causing problems. Yes we clean our trucks too.


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

I agree warm is ok. Hot; then there is an issue.


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## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

After Unhcp said something about the brakes, I figure that was the problem since i forgot about the rear brakes being worn out.

I remember when I had the front apart that the calipers were rusty and I though about switching them when I did the brakes, but the pads were clean. I guess it was last year not 2 years ago, I have a hard time remembering time correctly

I do not drive the truck much as it is, unless I have to haul something since I usualy have a company truck or riding in one at work. I never thought about getting in there and cleaning everything in the spring, but then again I think I was out maybe 6 times last year. I did spray the truck down after every snow really good as well as the plow, clean and grease what ever I could.

I guess I will not worry about it this winter unless they get red or start smoking:laughing: and just go ahead and go through it all in the spring/summer when I have time.

you all do not have a good lead on some rear drums do you? I forget what size mine are as well as the rear diff, but I think they were 11" and a sterling rear end. If I remember correctly they were 100-120 each, shop cost as I still have my shop discounts. I find that really high for 2 drums, and hate to buy them from a junk yard since you never know if they are warped or not.


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

This thread disappoints. Here I read the title as _Hot Tubs_.


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

Why not turn your drums?


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## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

mnglocker;1373910 said:


> This thread disappoints. Here I read the title as _Hot Tubs_.


:laughing:


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## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

shovelracer;1374058 said:


> Why not turn your drums?


They turn every time I drive it:laughing:

There to thin to turn, one is warped and they both have heat/stress cracks. In other words, there junk and not worth turning them down...

I need to find another pair to put on it, but it will have to wait till spring anyway, its to cold and muddy to work on the thing if I do not have to as I do not have a garage here at the house..


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## firefighter1406 (Nov 6, 2008)

Check out rockauto.com they have good prices on auto parts.


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## meborder (Oct 26, 2011)

At advance auto parts: (my zipcode)

12x3" drums = $67
12x2.5" drums = $71

seems reasonable.


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## theholycow (Nov 29, 2002)

If you order online from Advance Auto (whether for shipping or for in-store pickup, which you can do immediately after ordering), you can usually get up to 40% off by using the right coupon codes, though sometimes you have to split your order into multiple orders to maximize your use of coupon codes.

http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

Don't know if they're still valid, but BIG40 and CCABIN were codes for $40 off of $100 or more. There's also codes for $20 off of $50 (that's where you'd split your order, one drum in each order), including CSE123 and A123. BIG25 is $25 off $60, BIG30 is $30 off $75.


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## Dr Who (Dec 16, 2010)

Figures that ordering them from the parts store online reather then going in and using my shop discount is cheaper...

I have ran into this before when I buy parts over the counter as a walk in vs my shop discount..You would think that shops would be cheaper everytime...

Well I guess I will have to just buy them off line then, but first I have to see exactly what they are, 10" or 11"...


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