# Refurbishing plow...and I need help!



## KSlandscaper (Dec 15, 2005)

I have an old Meyers (please no smart butt remarks) ST90 plow. I striped the plow of paint and found a few rust holes. All holes where relitively small, the largest was approx. 3"x4" (which I grinded out, and welded in new steel). I took the plow to a welding shop with the intention of having it re-skinned (since it is rust pitted and such). The shop doesn't have a roller and the only shop in my city which does would charge me an arm and a leg anyhow. So instead of reskinning the plow I opted to have them fill in the rust fills with a MIG welder and reinforce the flimsiest part on the back for $125 and change. 

All is good (er looks good) for now, but I need to know what I should do about paint prep? I've heard of members using bondo to fill in the rust pits, then sanding the plow smooth. Or should I paint it as is (and maybe just opt for a poly liner?) 

I'm clueless at this point.....please help! 

(I could furnish photos if they'd help)


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## overequip (Sep 29, 2006)

I guess you already have the repairs done, but what I have saw done when a steel roller was not available is to use a press brake and bend a sheet every inch or so to re-skin a plow. Not a pretty as a rolled sheet but it works well. 

Just wanted to let you know that! Sorry I can't help you with your paint prep.


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## lawnmedic (Jan 9, 2004)

I don't have a sure bet on paint. We used Rustoleum Professional and then put a plastic skin on. Worked great other than gouges from drivers pushing parking chalks across the lots.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

I used a press brakes to do my Fisher. Came out fine.


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## KSlandscaper (Dec 15, 2005)

Thanks guys. I wish I had posted this eariler....

The sheet metal itself isn't in bad condition really. There where a few rust holes....mainly underneath where the cutting edge mounts. The larger hole was over one of the ribs. On the top of the back side there was an issue of the metal flaking off (rust...seemed the previous owner stored the plow outside - front of the plow flat on the ground - plow collected water?), this is where I had the shop weld on a 10 guage 5" strip of sheet metal (all long the top). Everything _should_ be good to go now....for at least 1-2 years?

I'm still playing with the idea of applying a thin layer of bondo to fill the rust pitting, but then again a poly liner isn't too expensive either.


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## copperhead89 (Oct 20, 2006)

*Paint choice?*



lawnmedic said:


> I don't have a sure bet on paint. We used Rustoleum Professional and then put a plastic skin on. Worked great other than gouges from drivers pushing parking chalks across the lots.


Hi- I would go to your local Agricultural store and use Farm Implement paint. I wears as good or better than most anything. You can get great coverage cause you can brush it on so it will cover better than a few spray on coats. If you have a Western -International Harvester Red is a close match. I bet there are lots in service like that.


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## tsmith (Sep 19, 2006)

Well, I know you did the sheet metal part already, but if you ever do it again I can tell you the ******* way of bending your sheet metal without a roller or a brake. You need your sheet metal, a truck, some 4x4s and 2x4s a little longer than your piece of metal and preferably a friend to drive the truck. Lay the sheet metal down on the 2x4s with them spaced at the edges and drive back and forth then move the boards (keep them straight and running length ways) keep moving your boards and adding to the height to get your metal to bend in a moon shape, periodically check against the plow for correct curvature. It takes a little time and patience, but it works, I just did it for half of my blade last week. You will have to clamp it on the plow and massage it a little with a hammer because it will want to bow up at the ends.


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## welded wrenches (Oct 19, 2004)

*MOLD BOARD 200% get r done*

hi,mold board fix;get a piece of non-magnetic stainless steel sheet metal from a old walk-in cooler.cut it 36 by 88 3/4 inch.and then bend it around a 55 gallon drum useing 2 ratchet staps and let sit for 3 days to get then contour.remove straps and unskrew bolts 3-4 turns on cutting edge of plow and slip stainless between plow and cutting edge..This goes directly over top of original face of plow that has been patched up.NEXt put a few tack welds around the perimeter edge.AKA 1/4 tack welds ever other inch, RAN 2 seasons Comm. works greak no sticky clumps and its slick. Nothings impossible it just take longer. I,ll try to post a pic..soon..


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

I would not recommend any body filler on your plow , normal filler absorbs moisture and will only cause further corrosion if the surface protection, ie: paint gets damaged. If the pitting is really bad, use Fiberglass Evercoat's Metal to Metal start sanding with 36 grit, then 80 grit and finish sanding with 180 for smooth finish, this product is water resistant and anticorrosive, but very pricey.

Sandblasting offers the best way to start a paint job, but if you got it down to metal, I'd wash it down with a good pre-cleaner and acid etch, then spray prime with a self etching anti-corrosive primer, follow with 3-4 coats of a good Single Stage 2K Urethane paint. Nason by Dupont offers a 2K that's very reasonable in cost, sort of a generic Imron. With any spray applications make sure your properly protected, good charcoal respirator, rubber gloves and well ventilated area.

Otherwise get a Rustolem primer, Rustolem Safety Yellow paint, roller and foam brush and put on nice even thin coats, allow sufficient drying between coats.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

Too many steps for a plow. We sandblast them, Rustoleum Primer and Safety Yellow. I did one 5 years ago and with exception of scratches still looks good. No rust on the back side.


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## KSlandscaper (Dec 15, 2005)

Nascar24 said:


> Hi
> 
> I would not recommend any body filler on your plow , normal filler absorbs moisture and will only cause further corrosion if the surface protection, ie: paint gets damaged. If the pitting is really bad, use Fiberglass Evercoat's Metal to Metal start sanding with 36 grit, then 80 grit and finish sanding with 180 for smooth finish, this product is water resistant and anticorrosive, but very pricey.
> 
> ...


Ho Humm....I shoulda waited then! I already used body filler and sanded the moldboard back down to the metal. Primed with Rustolem primer and rolled on VanSickle(sp?) Industrial JD yellow enamel (same as safety yellow, sunburst yellow). Hopefully the plow is good to go for a few years.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

old post check it out reskin plow http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=33130


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## KSlandscaper (Dec 15, 2005)

*Figured I'd post pictures of the results...*


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Look's like it turned out great! Congrat's!


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Got a keeper. Paint is great.... Just add some to the A frame and valve body and its new again great job..........


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