# Cold air intake



## hbrady (Oct 28, 2003)

Picked up my new (to me) 2015 2500 SLT w/ 5.7 and 3.73 ratio. The main reason I upgraded was my summer job for the truck involves hauling a 30' long 9000lb (loaded) travel trailer. One of the mods I'm considering is a K&N cold air intake, better gas millage and about 15 additional ponies @4688 RPM (supposedly). I'll be hauling up some long steep grades this summer and the additional power will be nice. Has anyone else made this mod to their RAM? My one concern is the open design and plowing, I wondering if moisture is going to be an issue. Since I may never get to plow with it this year (thanks to El Nino) I can't just pop the hood and inspect after plowing


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

a k&n inst going to get ya 15hp.
its just aint gonna happen.
Your stock set up is as free flowing as there is.
it takes cold air in from the grill area, not hot air from the engine compartment.


I'll never run a k&n Again.

On one I had the metal mesh failed allowing small pieces of it to enter the engine. 

to much oil can coat the mass air sensor.
they only filter better when they are dirty then they restrict the flow.

just my .01


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## LogansLawnCare (Aug 3, 2007)

I agree with snofarmer on this, I have run k&n filters in multiple vehicles and I will not be going that route again. In the future I will stick with dry filters over oiled ones such as k&n for the reasons that he stated


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## BRL1 (Sep 13, 2014)

Be careful you can dust your engine.


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## johnhenry1933 (Feb 11, 2013)

I don't know that cai will give you 15hp. I'd like to see that on a dyno. A modified tb will do it...and more.


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## hbrady (Oct 28, 2003)

Glad I asked Thumbs Up


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## novawagonmaster (Jun 16, 2014)

Don't waste your money.

I have not done testing on trucks, but I tested several different "cold" air intakes on my Challenger over a 3 year period. Anything that keeps the filter in the engine compartment was no better than the stock filter and housing. The filter and housing get heat soaked in the engine compartment. Some of them make cool sounds at WOT, but no measurable gains in performance. The only two designs that showed measurable improvements were one that used a longer tube which placed the filter down low behind the fog light area (outside the engine compartment), and one that went through the headlight assembly which was essentially a race-only setup.

The idea behind a "cold" air intake is to get ambient temperature air to the engine. Of course first, it must be taken in through the filter. High intake air temps cause the engine computer to pull timing. The benefit of a true cold air intake is that it gets you ambient air quicker when you mash the throttle from a stop. Any filter under the hood is going to be heat soaked at idle, and it takes a long while after you begin moving for the intake air temps to come down. When I ran the longer tube with the filter behind the fog light, intake air temps only took about 6-7 seconds to reach ambient after taking off. When I ran a tube out through the headlight, it only took 1.5 seconds! This was all easily recorded while datalogging on the drag strip.

Summary:
Cold air intakes do not add horsepower. The ones that actually work only allow you to maximize the performance potential you already have. In short, unless you are drag racing and need another half a tenth in your ET, don't waste your money.


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## hbrady (Oct 28, 2003)

Great info everyone, thanks again.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Just to pile on....
Filtering efficiency is a measure of the filter's overall ability to capture dirt.Compared to the AC, the K&N "plugged up" nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons.

*****Accumulative Gain:****
"Accumulative Gain" is the total amount of dirt that passed through the filter during the test.


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## johnhenry1933 (Feb 11, 2013)

I have two additional comments.

1: SnoFarmer is right about letting minute particles of dust/dirt/contaminants that are allowed to pass. However, how many of us drive in the sub-Saharan? This is especially true for plow trucks: How much dust is present when snow plowing? Answer: next to nil.
2: Whilst CAI will not "add" hp, it can harness and unleash hp you have, but are restricting. Engines love cold air, not hot. And many engines have highly restricted air flow from the factory.

I have a CAI on a dedicated plow truck, and the filter is as clean as it was three years ago.

I have dual CAI on a hemi, and it not only growls, but has more power. Now, I have a few other things under the hood (modded TB, ceramic headers, flowmaster ss exhaust, egr delete, etc.).

That being said, I would not run a K&N or other open weave filter in dusty conditions. I do think it is virtually harmless (and is beneficial) in mildly dusty conditions (city driving). And those are the conditions I generally drive in with these trucks: Snowplowing, driving on the interstate and city driving.

So, while not "adding" hp (as in internal mods like cam, or injection or chargers), CAI can certainly unleash hp. *Conditions and the amount of restriction in the oem filter are the variables.
*
Here is one of many independent tests, not performed by a company selling a specific product, but a speed shop:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...I6PBzmfOpGA_Ae4/edit?hl=en&pref=2&pli=1#gid=0

Finally, allowing an engine to "breathe" is elementary in performance. CAI is the simplest, least expensive upgrade with the smallest gains. However, if added in conjunction with other mods (catback, long tubes, tb, etc.) CAI is absolutely beneficial.

Just don't be using it in the sub-Saharan!


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

johnhenry1933 tries to be.....witty?

"sub-Saharan" :laughing::laughing:

Dust, dirt, grit, sand , is kicked up by the vehicles in front in front of you, Its also present in the air year around.
Cities have some of the poorest air conditions, lots of dust and grit,,,
Winter can be the driest time of year.

Then some of us our vehicles year around.

johnhenry1933 ,His truck now "growls" this noise = power.....
Thumbs Up
"I have dual CAI on a hemi, and it not only growls, but has more power. '

but then he says, 
"So, while not "adding" hp m CAI can certainly unleash hp.."
if it doesn't add any it can't unleash any= no gain,

and those charts came from this site, that is a "independent lab"
as you wanted.......and not from a MFG.:waving:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html
if a filter is using "better airflow" as their marketing tool, remember this….Does it flow better? At very high airflow volumes, probably. BUT, our engines CAN'T flow that much air unless super-modified, so what is the point?

incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL! It is amazing how many people believe that better airflow = more power! Unless you have modifications out the wazoo, a more porous filter will just dirty your oil! Some will say, I have used aftermarket brand X for XXX # years with no problems. The PROBLEM is you spent a chunk of change on a product that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, but also let in a lot of dirt while doing it! Now how much is a lot? ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY is TOO MUCH!

In fact, K&N (per their website) makes no claim that they do. They state: "We design our air filters to provide minimum restriction allowing high airflow into an engine."--however, there's nothing here that claims that others don't.

They then state: "Because no two air filters are alike, the specific airflow and overall filtration efficiency will vary depending on the filter in question. However, you can rest assured that each air filter we sell, has been designed to achieve high air flow while providing superior filtration."--there's more fudge in this sentence than in all of Helen Georgia (if you've been there you know what I'm talking about). "Efficiency will vary", "has been designed to..." (but does it really?), "providing superior filtration" (superior to what?). I couldn't find any unambiguous, unqualified, explicit claims of higher air flow and superior filtration used in the same sentence in any document on their site.

300% more air flow per square inch through an effective area 5 times smaller equals 80% less air flow. This may account for some of the dynamometer tests showing reduced power with the K&N drop-in filters.

We believe the primary function of an air filter is to deliver both high airflow and superior dirt protection" -- yeah, and I believe in motherhood and apple pie, there is nothing here stating that their filters do this..:waving:

ps the best part of a k&n is being able to hold it up to and see light threw it.
if you can see light dirt is passing threw it.


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## johnhenry1933 (Feb 11, 2013)

Yes. Witty because it is about to get subzero again. 

Listen sno...I'm not going to debate with you. But why do you think a 2000hp GTR (and soooo many other makes and models) use CAI?

Just to let dust into the engine? Just to waste money?

And why do you think they invariably place those CAIs down low and in front?

And what do you think they're doing on their laptops immediately after a run? Farming Snow?


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## johnnywaz (Oct 16, 2015)

johnhenry1933;2106998 said:


> Yes. Witty because it is about to get subzero again.
> 
> Listen sno...I'm not going to debate with you. But why do you think a 2000hp GTR (and soooo many other makes and models) use CAI?
> 
> ...


Subscribed


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

johnhenry1933;2106998 said:


> Yes. Witty because it is about to get subzero again.
> 
> Listen sno...I'm not going to debate with you. But why do you think a 2000hp GTR (and soooo many other makes and models) use CAI?
> 
> ...


hahaha, but you are and have been debating.

When your truck produces 2000hp let us now..:waving:
until then you will see no advantage from changing or modifying your intake,.

The engine in your plow truck or his or mine will never be modified to a point it could utilize the extra air. A stock paper filter will flow more air than our engines can utilize
even turbocharged

I know, you think you need more air from your mods, but your not even close to needing it.

you wanted a independent test, I gave you it
I can find many more that say the same thing.


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## johnhenry1933 (Feb 11, 2013)

johnnywaz;2107002 said:


> Is it really fair to compare a race engine thats most likely rebuilt multiple times a year to an every day driver?
> 
> Im not picking sides here just saying.


Yes.

In that the principle remains the same: an engine needs to breath to perform at it's best. .Period

In the alternative, restrict your airflow on any oem filter and see what happens. The engine doesn't like it.

Again, performance differences in CAI alone are moddest, at best. But in conjunction with modded tb's, long tubes, catback they can be huge.

There seems to be an assumption that manufacturers spend oodles of money tweaking their engines, intakes and exhausts to maximize hp. They do not. That's why it is one of the cheapest and easiest ways (bolt on) to gain power.

And we're always looking for bolt on hp (as opposed to those internal things that easily cost thousands, if not tens of thousands).


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

yea, we all drive around with2000hp and the peddle to the floor.
or run 2000hp on a dyno
You will not see a advantage.

On a serious note, a air filter does not add HP.
not even a small dwarf one.

while back here on earth we are discussing plow trucks, not 2000hp heavily modified race engines.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

johnhenry1933;2106982 said:


> However, how many of us drive in the sub-Saharan?


Not the sub Saharan but High Plains Desert country in Co and Wyo where the dust is as fine as Talcum Powder.


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## johnhenry1933 (Feb 11, 2013)

SnoFarmer;2107011 said:


> yea, we all drive around with2000hp and the peddle to the floor.
> or run 2000hp on a dyno
> You will not see a advantage.
> 
> ...


This are the principles we have here on Earth: Physics.

Again, *the principle remains the same*, (and the real world effect). Whether a 2000hp GTR, a 700 hp GTR or a 500 hp Hemi.

Depending on the engine and mods, modified intake and exhaust can easily yield 25hp, if not 100 hp.


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## johnhenry1933 (Feb 11, 2013)

BUFF;2107019 said:


> Not the sub Saharan but High Plains Desert country in Co and Wyo where the dust is as fine as Talcum Powder.


I am not here to debate if it is practical in your's...or anyone's specific instance.

The question is does it yield results, and the answer is an unequivocal yes.

If you want to debate the science of it...have at it.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

johnhenry1933;2107021 said:


> I am not here to debate if it is practical in your's...or anyone's specific instance.
> 
> The question is does it yield results, and the answer is an unequivocal yes.
> 
> If you want to debate the science of it...have at it.


My comment was regarding your desert comment, most folks forget the western half of the country is primarily desert.
I did run a K&N with a pre filter (to capture snow) on my supercharged sled.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

johnhenry1933;2107021 said:


> I am not here to debate if it is practical in your's...or anyone's specific instance.
> 
> The question is does it yield results, and the answer is an unequivocal yes.
> 
> If you want to debate the science of it...have at it.


but you just debated it again.

The question, will you see favorable results, and the answer is a resounding , no.

Your 500hp hemi or my heavily internally modified and a few "bolt on" mods
68' 440 R/T Charger or my modded 6.7 diesel will see go gain from a cai or a k&N. not even one hp.

I dont think the opis running 2000hp plow truck and neater are you.

fyi
As for your " sub Saharan" air quality comment.

"Some sources of pollution, like industrial emissions, stay fairly constant throughout the year, no matter what the season. But roaring fireplaces and wood stoves and idling vehicles in the winter all add up to higher levels of particulate matter (the particles that make up smoke) and carbon monoxide (from vehicle emissions)."

"On top of this, cold temperatures and stagnant air have a way of creating a build-up of these substances near the ground, particularly during a weather phenomenon called temperature inversions. In other seasons or weather conditions, warm air sits near the ground and the air can rise easily and carry away pollutants. In a temperature inversion, cold air is trapped near the ground by a layer of warm air. The warm air acts like a lid, holding these substances down. During a temperature inversion, smoke can't rise and carbon monoxide can reach unhealthy levels. From an air quality perspective, storms are a welcome weather event. Wind, rain and snow storms are sometimes called scrubbers because they help clear out and disperse substances of concern - "

and lets not for get almost every paved road has had sand, cinders, grit, etc etc applied to them making all of then essentially, gravel/dirt roads.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

So isn't a lot of snow as fine as dust? 

Which would turn to either a vapor or liquid form upon passing the filter? 

I'll stick with stock or something far superior to a K&N.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

good point mark, How aboot salt dust?


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

SnoFarmer;2107076 said:


> good point mark, How aboot salt dust?


None of that aroond here.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

Mark Oomkes;2107066 said:


> So isn't a lot of snow as fine as dust?
> 
> Which would turn to either a vapor or liquid form upon passing the filter?


_SnowCharger® Filter Wraps
•SnowChargers will stop small dirt particles, yet add little restriction to the airflow of your filter.
•Deflects grass, twigs, rocks and dust you encounter when grass track racing or crossing snowless trails. 
•The SnowCharger is designed to be run dry and can be easily cleaned with K&N Filter Cleaner.

The prefilter answer to all the snow that wants to pack down into the pleats of your snowmobile air filter. SnowChargers are silicone treated polyester wraps that repel snow and water. Melting snow just beads off instead of soaking the filters._

My experience with the pre-filters/ snow chargers on sleds have be very positive.

There are several aftermarket mfr's that make these for OEM applications, when you're riding in 3-4'of western fluff and snow is rolling over the windshield air intakes get buried by snow and the motor bogs down resulting in getting stuck. With a pre-filter you can easily wipe snow away from the intake with a quick flick of a finger.


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## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

I have heard Volant makes a very well constructed and less restricted/less turbulent system while maintaining oem filtering. Just hearsay from some very well reputable mechanics and dyno tuners in my area.


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

Not dis agreeing with k & n fliters letting more particles in, but why is it that the 3 trucks I've put CAI on instantly run about 150-200 less rpm at highway speed(60-65)? Also mileage went up a bit, I think 14.5 to 15.3-5 if I remember right. Also a much faster throttle response. 

If my primary driving was gravel or dusty conditions I wouldn't want a CAI, normal city driving isn't so bad. Btw all three trucks were 97 F350 7.3s. 

That being said its not really worth $300 for less filtration in my opinion, at least on a daily driver.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

beanz27;2107492 said:


> Not dis agreeing with k & n fliters letting more particles in, but why is it that the 3 trucks I've put CAI on instantly run about 150-200 less rpm at highway speed(60-65)? Also mileage went up a bit, I think 14.5 to 15.3-5 if I remember right. Also a much faster throttle response.
> 
> If my primary driving was gravel or dusty conditions I wouldn't want a CAI, normal city driving isn't so bad. Btw all three trucks were 97 F350 7.3s.
> 
> That being said its not really worth $300 for less filtration in my opinion, at least on a daily driver.


Ok so let's say without it you ran 1500rpm at 60 mph.
Then you nistall it and you now run 1300rpm at 60mph.
How can this be?

Not to po po, but was this seat fo the pants data?


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

Driving down the road myself, same conditions. Rpm on the factory tach


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

It has to do with rpms, and your gearing,
At a 60mph your rpms will always be the same reguardless of mods.
If the rpm goes up you go faster, if they drop you go slower.

I don't see how you could have a lower rpm and still go as fast.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

SnoFarmer;2108209 said:


> I don't see how you could have a lower rpm and still go as fast.


Tail wind......


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

BUFF;2108221 said:


> Tail wind......


Where do I get that mod?
Is it a Bolt on?

Steep hilll:waving:


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

SnoFarmer;2108230 said:


> Where do I get that mod?
> Is it a Bolt on?
> 
> Steep hilll:waving:


Bad thing aboot tail winds oot west is they're typically heading east........


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

BUFF;2108237 said:


> Bad thing aboot tail winds oot west is they're typically heading east........


That's becuse the east s.u.cks


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

SnoFarmer;2108238 said:


> That's becuse the east s.u.cks


Sure does............


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## novawagonmaster (Jun 16, 2014)

johnhenry1933;2106982 said:


> I have dual CAI on a hemi, and it not only growls, but has more power. Now, I have a few other things under the hood (modded TB, ceramic headers, flowmaster ss exhaust, egr delete, etc.).
> 
> Finally, allowing an engine to "breathe" is elementary in performance. CAI is the simplest, least expensive upgrade with the smallest gains. However, if added in conjunction with other mods (catback, long tubes, tb, etc.) CAI is absolutely beneficial.


On what kind of car (or truck) do you have the dual CAI? Just curious, as I've only seen one that I like and it was all about appearance (not performance).

Of the mods you listed, the only one that is doing you any good is the long tube headers. Cat back only changes the noise, and the throttle body is just as worthless as the CAI. The 5.7 hemi comes with a 85mm throttle body. This is MORE than adequate to run that puppy at WOT all day long without restricting the incoming airflow. I have a 6.4 (392) in my 2014 Charger, and guess what size throttle body... yup... same 85mm unit, and it is still not the bottleneck. The first bottleneck on a 5.7 is the log type exhaust manifolds. The next restriction is the actual intake manifold. After that, you need cam and heads (and lots of RPM) to be able to out-flow the throttle body and the cat-back. I built a full race naturally aspirated 5.7 HEMI for my 2010 Challenger a few years back. Just under 13:1 compression, huge cam, ran on E85, turned 7000 rpm, backed up with a 5000 converter and 4.56 gears. That car went 10.84, and nobody has beat that number with a naturally aspirated 5.7 HEMI. That engine needed a 90mm throttle body, 2" primary headers, and 3" exhaust. The only reason it needed the big stuff was because it was was race only, and never saw less than 5000 RPM after first gear. Tuning for part throttle driveability was a biotch. I'm glad it was not a street car at that point!

So no... there is no benefit to running a CAI or a non-stock throttle body in a plow truck. Especially one that is not being run all day at WOT.



johnhenry1933;2107008 said:


> Yes.
> 
> In that the principle remains the same: an engine needs to breath to perform at it's best. .Period
> 
> ...






johnhenry1933;2107020 said:


> This are the principles we have here on Earth: Physics.
> 
> Again, *the principle remains the same*, (and the real world effect). Whether a 2000hp GTR, a 700 hp GTR or a 500 hp Hemi.
> 
> Depending on the engine and mods, modified intake and exhaust can easily yield 25hp, if not 100 hp.


Ermagerd. No!

Engineers are forced by the bean counters to compromise between power, fuel efficiency, reliability, emissions compliance, and cost. There is no free lunch. You change one, and you will have an effect on the others.

Yes, people like to throw money at their rides with bolt-ons. 
Why? Three reasons.

First is cost. 
Bolt-ons are (or at least used to be) cheap. Most guys can scrape together a few hundred bucks here and there and say they've modded their ride. Not everybody has thousands of dollars to allocate to internal engine work or a power adder such as a supercharger, turbo(s), or nitrous.

Second is mechanical ability.
There are fewer and fewer guys with late model EFI willing to crack open the engine for a cam swap and head work or head swap. Some guys who might give it a try don't have the tools. Of those that do, they may not have a hookup for tuning. All of the mods are wasted if you don't have the right guy writing the tune!

Third is to "fit in".
Go to a car show that lets newer cars participate. Damn near every one of them will have a cold air intake, a strut tower brace, and some form of aftermarket lighting. None of them do before and after dynos. None of them have before and after timeslips. And none of them autocross or road race the car to take advantage of any stiffness afforded by a strut brace. It's all about fitting in with the aftermarket crowd. It's just what they do.

Here's the reality. CAI, thermostat, longtube headers, cat-back, and custom tune will not get you anywhere near the 100 hp number you suggest. If you get half that, you are are very lucky, and most of it will be from the combination of the headers and tune. Still a big maybe. You just aren't going to see those kind of numbers without cam and heads.

If what you are suggesting is true, every guy out there with a 5.7 Challenger or Charger R/T and bolt-ons is going to be running the same numbers as a stock SRT8 (392/6.4). I've been racing with that crowd for 5 years, and I can tell you that is nowhere near true.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Hang on folks...........I need to refill my popcorn bucket.


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## novawagonmaster (Jun 16, 2014)

Mark Oomkes;2108558 said:


> Hang on folks...........I need to refill my popcorn bucket.


Grab a soda, too. All that salt makes you thirsty.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

yea hold on, i need another beer,


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

novawagonmaster;2108561 said:


> Grab a soda, too. All that salt makes you thirsty.


Barley pop


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

beanz27;2108100 said:


> Driving down the road myself, same conditions. Rpm on the factory tach


You have either an automatic with a lock up torque converter, or a stick. I just don't see how you can go down in Rs with your statement.


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## maxwellp (Feb 16, 2013)

I have purchased a few trucks with these aftermarket air filters and cold air intakes. I remove them and put the factory parts back on. Have you ever listened to a Cummins with one of those on it? It gets old after about 10 min.


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## hbrady (Oct 28, 2003)

Question answered a long time ago but this has been entertaining


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

Randall Ave;2108599 said:


> You have either an automatic with a lock up torque converter, or a stick. I just don't see how you can go down in Rs with your statement.


It's in 97 F350 7.3 overdrive auto. Mileage went up slightly also. As I said though the BIGGEST impact was throttle response, much better response. That being said I haven't bought more.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Any unicorns out your way?


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

SnoFarmer;2108723 said:


> Any unicorns out your way?


They are all out by Duluth I heard.


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

beanz27;2110775 said:


> They are all out by Duluth I heard.


And they're pretty tasty smoked with a Porter or Scottish Ale too......


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## Ronald Foster (Feb 2, 2016)

I can attest to this from personal experience. Since my own truck spends a fair amount of time in the dust and dirt, I now run an oiled foam filter. No dust or dirt gets through and it's washable, reusable and free flowing. It doesn't load up nearly as quickly as stock paper filters did. However if you're on the pavement all the time, then a paper filter will do the job.

There is no such thing as cheap or free power. If you really want more power then you simply have to pay for it.



SnoFarmer;2106401 said:


> Just to pile on....
> Filtering efficiency is a measure of the filter's overall ability to capture dirt.Compared to the AC, the K&N "plugged up" nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt. See the data tables for a complete summary of these comparisons.
> 
> *****Accumulative Gain:****
> "Accumulative Gain" is the total amount of dirt that passed through the filter during the test.


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## RIRAM2500HD (May 6, 2015)

Being that during the winter months my Hemi sees plow duty. I've decided that the stock air box will be staying on for various reasons. 
1. During the winter months there is so much fine debris spread on the road . I.e. Sand & salt the latter which gets crushed into a fine salt dust which traffic in front of you kicks up from the tires which flows directly into the front end of your truck especially on the highway. 
2. During Blizzards & long storms with many hours spent in the truck I don't want any moisture or snow piling up into my air box & for this reason STOCK is the way too go! 
3. I've seen way too many tests performed which prove many CAI reduce you torque when compared to just leaving it stock.
4. I don't want messy dirt attracting K&N oil getting on my Mass airflow sensor! 
5. I can get a quality replacement air filter for cheap at Walmart & replace a dirty one in 5 mins .
6. I like my trucks as silent from the factory especially when plowing or pulling my trailer so I can listen to my music! 
7. Frankly CAI are a waste on my hard earned cash!


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