# backup lights



## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

Got these lights for a bargain and did a quick install.Well worth the time they are super bright.


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## FredG (Oct 15, 2012)

Nice lights, They should help out nicely.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Need to tighten up that wiring job.


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

Get them down lower. When it is snowing it will just glare back at you. The lower the better. Cool lights, but not liking LEDs. They produce no heat to melt the snow off in case snow gets on them.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

TJS said:


> Get them down lower. When it is snowing it will just glare back at you. The lower the better. Cool lights, but not liking LEDs. They produce no heat to melt the snow off in case snow gets on them.


Wonder why they have heat sinks on them? I have had my Instensfire light ice over but never my LEDs.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

I wired mine up under the bumper. There is a brace behind my bumper so the light face sits just behind the bumper for protection. I just spliced mine into the reverse light wiring though.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

Mine are from Auxbeam. Looks like yours are too. So far they work great. They are probably the best Chinese light you get. To get any better quality you are looking at rigid or black oak.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

X2 on your wiring, what's hanging down below the bumper, snow will build and tear it off soon. No slam on you installing new lights,but your location may lead to accidental breakage. 
A note on LEDs, Most of the heat comes off the driver behind the chip, hence the heat sinks on the rear. Not much for snow melt but easy on the 12v system


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

scottr said:


> X2 on your wiring, what's hanging down below the bumper, snow will build and tear it off soon. No slam on you installing new lights,but your location may lead to accidental breakage.
> A note on LEDs, Most of the heat comes off the driver behind the chip, hence the heat sinks on the rear. Not much for snow melt but easy on the 12v system


Ya that's why I bought cheap ones to see if they can handle it. They are kinda protected by the wheel well. I make all my connections with the disconnects at the end of the accessory wire harness so I can easily swap them out without ever having to splice the trucks wiring harness again. I personally wanted to be able to aim them so I went with the pods mounted low. If they don't hold up I'll do a flush mount bumper install instead.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

ktfbgb said:


> Ya that's why I bought cheap ones to see if they can handle it. They are kinda protected by the wheel well. I make all my connections with the disconnects at the end of the accessory wire harness so I can easily swap them out without ever having to splice the trucks wiring harness again. I personally wanted to be able to aim them so I went with the pods mounted low. If they don't hold up I'll do a flush mount bumper install instead.


Well disregard my above comment. Was replying to a different lighting thread and somehow i relied in this one. That's what I get for having multiple tabs open lol


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

The wiring was taken care of the day after haha it was raining and i didn't feel like laying in the water. This picture was before final solder and heat shrink connections. I was skeptical about placement at first but i plowed them all last night and i couldn't be happier. They put out lots of heat and had zeros problems with icing. Cant go wrong for the total of $50 for everything (lights,plug,wire,connectors) and about and hour of time.


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## scottr (Oct 10, 2013)

Good deal RedTriton, glad there working good for you. Can't beat good lighting:clapping:


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

now I just need to figure out what to upgrade my plow itself I'm not impressed with the snowdogg headlights from factory.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

RedTriton said:


> now I just need to figure out what to upgrade my plow itself I'm not impressed with the snowdogg headlights from factory.


Upgrading plow headlights can be hit or miss. A lot of guys opt for adding a nice LED combination spot/flood light bar in between the plow lights. Wire it up to a two pin trailer connection and a switch. That way the light stays on the plow, and you can turn it on and off between lots as the light bars are usually illegal to use on the road.


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

You're reading my mind haha I've been pricing and measuring bar to find one that fits


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

If you are on a budget check out Auxbeam. If your not check out Black Oak and Rigid industries.


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

I have 3 auxbeam bars currently and love them I just need to find one that fits


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

Awesome. I'm getting one of the new ones with the 5D reflectors nextThumbs Up


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Bunch of jagoffs with those off road light bars on the street. :hammerhead:


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Bunch of jagoffs with those off road light bars on the street. :hammerhead:


For sure. If you have them it's paramount to be responsible and always remember to turn it off when on the road. Even if it's a busy lot that I am plowing I don't flip it on as there is usually overhead lighting in those busy ones. I do have several lots however that have zero overhead lighting so they do have a place and help immensely In those type of lots.


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

Im going to make a different bracket with better iron after the holiday


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

ktfbgb said:


> For sure. If you have them it's paramount to be responsible and always remember to turn it off when on the road. Even if it's a busy lot that I am plowing I don't flip it on as there is usually overhead lighting in those busy ones. I do have several lots however that have zero overhead lighting so they do have a place and help immensely In those type of lots.


Come on, you forgot about that thread already?


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

..


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

..wont let me load a pic sorry


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## BUFF (Dec 24, 2009)

kimber750 said:


> Bunch of jagoffs with those off road light bars on the street. :hammerhead:


Yeah yeah yeah yeah..... only oot in the county to see Elk, Deer, Livestock on the road and in lots. Also have a set of floods on the spreader, headache rack and under the bed in front of the rear axle.
Also never had a freeze over issue either, they're great.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Come on, you forgot about that thread already?
> 
> View attachment 168704


Didn't forget, but as depcticted in the above technical schematic, the story of my life.

On a side note you have a much better ability for drawing said schematics. Here is an example of my drawing skills lol.


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

the thing I'm worried about on the snowdogg is that the headlight frames have a fair amount of flexion and vibration while plowing and I'm curious if it would snap aluminum mounts.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

You could try some rubber blocks between the aluminum light mounts and frame. Might keep them from snapping.


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

I just have to figure out the happy place on the frame to mount.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

Just put a piece of steel across the headgear. Take off the plow lights, mark the steel, drill it, and attach everything again to the original holes in the headgear.


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## RedTriton (Nov 23, 2010)

I had thought about this but my only concern was adding material and making it to rigid if it was designed to flex but idk if thats even a concern


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## Dogplow Dodge (Jan 23, 2012)

Inset in the rear bumper, switched at the dash, so that when a jagoff behind you comes up on your vehicle with one of those jagoff light bars on, blinding you in the rearview, you can flip the switch, and blind the jagoff backThumbs Up


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

RedTriton said:


> I had thought about this but my only concern was adding material and making it to rigid if it was designed to flex but idk if thats even a concern


Lots of people do it. They flex because they go cheap and don't build stuff like they used too. Like I said if you want to maintain the flex use some rubber grommets between the new steel and old steel.


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