# Oil pan and trans lines 6.0 F350



## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Hello all. Just thought I'd share. I tackled my 6leakers rotted oil pan and rusty trans lines today. Every damn bolt needed a turbo socket to get it out...pain in the azz! I painted the new oil pan and lines with rustoleum gloss black with a paintbrush the week before. 3 coats should help the pan and lines last a little longer.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)




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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Pretty new pan and lines...


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

how much where the brake lines from ford? I will be needing them too soon on my '05


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

If by "brake" lines, you mean the trans lines, my employee cost was 55.00 just for the ones from the trans up the external filter. I think retail they are somewhere around $115.00, not sure but somewhere around there. My lines weren't leaking but were pretty cancerous. Best time to change them is when the oil pan is out....can't get em in there otherwise. (You can but it won't be pretty)


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

I will have to be doing them to i'm sure already had to fix a leak from the cooler near the elbow in the front. nice to be able to do it on a lift .


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## gtmustang00 (Feb 23, 2010)

Damn your truck looks mint on the outside. Do you have any pictures of the old oil pan? I'm curious to see how rusty it was. I don't think mine was rusty the last time i looked under the truck.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

That trucks barely rusted. I did back brakes on my 99 - 5.4 today. Every where I look there is rust. It would be so nice to have a lift.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

MickiRig1;1643051 said:


> That trucks barely rusted. I did back brakes on my 99 - 5.4 today. Every where I look there is rust. It would be so nice to have a lift.


Ha ha.. Two months ago I went to use my Ebrake....it went right to the floor. I drove it for a few weeks till I had time to fix it. Turns out the backing plates rotted through and the shoe pins came out. The backing plate fell apart in my hands. Ford has complete backing plates....$$$. just install the Ebrake cable and install a new seal for the full floating axle. Good to go.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

gtmustang00;1643041 said:


> Damn your truck looks mint on the outside. Do you have any pictures of the old oil pan? I'm curious to see how rusty it was. I don't think mine was rusty the last time i looked under the truck.


I still have the pan. I forgot to take a picture of the old one in place... I got engrossed in getting out the rotted bolts. (Thank god for turbo sockets!) It was rotted on the lowest part, right side of the bubble. 1-1.5 qts every 50 miles it was leaking.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

_*That's funny! *_
I found that I have no parking brake parts left. The last ****** that owned it removed it all.
The only thing there is, are little levers floating in the water seal. Not even hooked to the cables. The backing plates are so rusted the shoes would hang up. One is not square to the caliper bracket. Looks like big fun to change them out. Pull axles, new seals, totally rusted bolts and nuts. I bought the hardware kit, must be missing important parts. 
I love my truck, till I have to work on it! Nothing is easy!


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

MickiRig1;1643058 said:


> _*That's funny! *_
> I found that I have no parking brake parts left. The last ****** that owned it removed it all.
> The only thing there is, are little levers floating in the water seal. Not even hooked to the cables. The backing plates are so rusted the shoes would hang up. One is not square to the caliper bracket. Looks like big fun to change them out. Pull axles, new seals, totally rusted bolts and nuts. I bought the hardware kit, must be missing important parts.
> I love my truck, till I have to work on it! Nothing is easy!


Ain't that the truth! 
I'm not sure without seeing it in person, but if you bought the complete hardware kit, you may just be missing the adjuster barrel and the mechanical adjuster arm. The kits usually include new pins, springs and holddowns...pretty much everything needed.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I have the adjuster star wheel. The hold down clips and return springs. No adjuster shoe. Just has no way to engage shoes or a pivot point for the little lever thing connected to cable...My manual shows a vague picture. Went to library,Pro Motors manual shows same picture! Mechanics at work no help!


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Well, I am a Ford Technician... What exact truck are we talking about?? I know you said 99 5.4 is it an f150...f350 etc.? I assume 4wd. I'll tell ya what ur missing.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

I just did a search and came upon this thread. It may worth looking at as it has some decent pix to help you....if you have an f250/350. Check it out..

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...backing-plate-installation-with-pictures.html


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## Morrissey snow removal (Sep 30, 2006)

you will be good to go now you did not have to pull the motor all the way out


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Morrissey snow removal;1643079 said:


> you will be good to go now you did not have to pull the motor all the way out


Nope just pull motor mount nuts and jack the motor up about 2 inches. That gave just enough clearance.


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

so you would really need a lift to do the oil pan to be able to reach everything well. I sure the dealer gets a good $$$ for that .


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

You can do it on the ground with a couple ramps and a floor jack with a block of wood. I get 6 hours (+/- 600$ labor) to change a 6 liter oil pan at my dealership. If the bolts aren't rotted, I can have it done in 2 hours. My own pan took almost 6 hours...lol.


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

I doing the rear brakes on my truck now and hit a snag as the replacement calipers that I put in a few years ago are now junk and have to get new ones what a way to put a damper on the day.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

gtmustang00;1643041 said:


> Damn your truck looks mint on the outside. Do you have any pictures of the old oil pan? I'm curious to see how rusty it was. I don't think mine was rusty the last time i looked under the truck.


Here's some pix of the pan...










Big hole..


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

should make them out of stainless steel or plastic but I guess that creates jobs for parts makers and suppliers .


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

cat320;1643241 said:


> should make them out of stainless steel or plastic but I guess that creates jobs for parts makers and suppliers .


I agree...


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

My Red -Reg cab- 5.4- 1999- LD- F-250- 4X4- 4 wheel disk brakes. All I have left of the parking brakes are, I assume the lever that attachés to the cables and activates the brakes. It's not anchored anywhere. It's held in by the plastic water seal. That is all that holds it from falling out. No pivot point nothing I have found. I bought the Wagner kit. It has: adjuster wheel in 2 pieces. 4 return springs, 4 hold down clips and nails / posts. I see no way to engage the shoes to move. Manuals are no help. Went to the Library and they even have poor pictures of the assembly! ( They have Motors Pro manuals )


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

MickiRig1;1643399 said:


> My Red -Reg cab- 5.4- 1999- LD- F-250- 4X4- 4 wheel disk brakes. All I have left of the parking brakes are, I assume the lever that attachés to the cables and activates the brakes. It's not anchored anywhere. It's held in by the plastic water seal. That is all that holds it from falling out. No pivot point nothing I have found. I bought the Wagner kit. It has: adjuster wheel in 2 pieces. 4 return springs, 4 hold down clips and nails / posts. I see no way to engage the shoes to move. Manuals are no help. Went to the Library and they even have poor pictures of the assembly! ( They have Motors Pro manuals )


That lever that you have...that's in the plastic water seal, When the brake shoes are set....it wedges between the two shoes and forces them out against the drum when the Ebrake cable is yanked. Make sure you clean that lever up so it pivots freely.

Basically, you put the lever in through the back, put your shoes and springs in and that's it. Just have to adjust the star till the drum drags on the shoes. It's ok if it feels tight to rotate the hub by hand.... Then you won't have to adjust after you put it all back together and drive it.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Micki, did you look at the link I gave you on the first page of this thread?? It has pictures of what you are trying to do. It would probably answer your questions and give you a better visual.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I just have the curved part of the actuator. it's missing the flat parts that it pivots on. I would of thought the maker of that instruction post would of used new springs and adjuster post. As mush trouble it is to get to and repair. It's $20 for both sides. I have to replace the backing plates i will deal with it then I guess.


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## Marek (Nov 16, 2005)

I replaced the backing plates on my 07 this past spring. The kit from Ferd was expensive


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Marek;1645379 said:


> I replaced the backing plates on my 07 this past spring. The kit from Ferd was expensive


My employee cost was expensive... I can't imagine what you paid... 05-07s seem to rot out more often than the 99-04. It was definitely worth the cost though to just bolt em on and go..


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## rjigto4oje (Oct 27, 2010)

07PSDCREW;1645389 said:


> My employee cost was expensive... I can't imagine what you paid... 05-07s seem to rot out more often than the 99-04. It was definitely worth the cost though to just bolt em on and go..


Before I put the oil oil pan on I scuff the pan up the apply truck bed coating 2 coats its been on on for 4 to 5 years and still looks good what about this fluid film I hear about


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## Jim74 (Jul 8, 2012)

Check out damiendiesel1 on YouTube for oil pan kits, I'm not sure if they go on the 6.0's but I know a few people who've done them on the 7.3's. Nice looking truck by the way.


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