# Western Ultra Mount Severe Voltage Drop



## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

97 F350 with 7.6 Western Ultramount (two plug). Unit has ran great all winter until last week.

After plowing, washed truck. Typical ‘wash off salt’ not overly spraying plow pump / connections.

Get home, controller shuts off w any command (besides down / float). Turns out to be inline fuse off controller in cab.

Next storm rolls around, truck completely shuts off after hour of plowing (yup, that kinda day). Replaced alternator on site. Hour later, truck shuts off again (yepppp). Replaced battery. (All between 8-11am).

Plow begins to act up around noon (pushed into a snow mound, plow quits).

Plow side harness to plow motor is very hot. After a long day I figured to call it quits and fight the good fight another day....

Since then:
- replaced plow motor 
- checked multiple grounds (all good)
- tightened up connections at battery / solenoid
- replaced plow side harness to plow motor (this was hot to touch after plowing)

When up / left / right is touched, truck damn near shuts off (severe voltage drop). After replacing alt, battery, can’t imagine a power issue.

Another thread mentions voltage regulators on 97 Fords being crap?

With a 1-3” storm upgraded to a 3-5”, I’ve got 24 hrs to get it fixed.

Gotta love chasing snow....

Any thoughts? With over 60hrs this winter it’s gotta be something silly ... I hope.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Old battery seen here was been replaced (cheap Walmart out, AC Delco upgraded in)


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Solenoid here has since been replaced (these helped me to orient new relay)


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Pre winter pic for those into that 97 OBS look...


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Not pictured on truck, but here is the solenoid that replaced what is seen above:


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

With plow unplugged, solenoid clicks as it should. With plow plugged in, truck voltage drops to 2-3 volts (entire truck nearly shuts off). Only down / float doesn’t bother it.


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## Mike N (Dec 21, 2008)

I'd wager a guess that something within the hydraulic part of the plow has failed and your plow motor is having a heart attack anytime you engage it, which is what's dragging your voltage down.

Do you know anyone with a two plug Ultramount that you could plug into to test my theory?


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Thanks for the response. Closest friend has a fisher setup...he’s currently unavailable.

When you say hydraulics, your thinking where the valves are located (under the plow motor)?

Currently trying to find solenoid wiring diagram....


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

http://library.westernplows.com/westernplows/pdffiles/21936_121704.pdf


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

I would use jumper cables to hook up where power cable goes just to eliminate a bad cable. I would also get a factory solenoid.


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

I’m assuming you are in Bel Air, MD?...I know it’s not much relief, but doesn’t sound like very much accumulation coming for us, unless you are close to the PA line.


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## ZL1 (Oct 29, 2019)

Yeah, check your fluid and flow. Contaminated fluid or a plugged pump will cause the motor the overwork and go into cardiac.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

prezek said:


> I'm assuming you are Bel Air, MD?...I know it's not much relief, but doesn't sound like very much accumulation coming, unless you are close to the PA line.


Correct on location and weather report. With an active winter, don't want to be caught if she 'turns up'. With 50s and close to 60 temps this week, hoping to season is over (things I'd only say with a plow that's acting up)


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

Mike N said:


> I'd wager a guess that something within the hydraulic part of the plow has failed and your plow motor is having a heart attack anytime you engage it, which is what's dragging your voltage down.
> 
> Do you know anyone with a two plug Ultramount that you could plug into to test my theory?


I'm assuming the old 2 plug unimount is different than the 2 plug ultramount?


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Western1 said:


> http://library.westernplows.com/westernplows/pdffiles/21936_121704.pdf


THANKS


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

TSR1225 said:


> Correct on location and weather report. With an active winter, don't want to be caught if she 'turns up'. With 50s and close to 60 temps this week, hoping to season is over (things I'd only say with a plow that's acting up)


It's been a good month for sure for our area. I'm ready for spring and I'm hoping this is it.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

prezek said:


> I'm assuming the old 2 plug unimount is different than the 2 plug ultramount?


As long as the 2 plug ultra is the older relay style then they would be the same electronically


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

Western1 said:


> As long as the 2 plug ultra is the older relay style then they would be the same electronically


TSR-I have a few unimounts around to plug into if it helps narrow your issue down.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Eliminating truckside vs plowside is very helpful


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

prezek said:


> TSR-I have a few unimounts around to plug into if it helps narrow your issue down.


Picked up the plow side harness from Dejana Friday (didn't work).

You have a truck side harness handy? I'd be willing to try and would pay for your help! Coming from Harford County.

443-866-8310 if text is preferred.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

You may have a bad pump as it is seizing up, breaking apart inside, with the motor off, see if you can turn the pump by hand.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

AWESOME to get multiple responses. Thanks to all.


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

TSR1225 said:


> Picked up the plow side harness from Dejana Friday (didn't work).
> 
> You have a truck side harness handy? I'd be willing to try and would pay for your help! Coming from Harford County.
> 
> 443-866-8310 if text is preferred.


I don't have any loose harnesses. I have to run to joppa to do a few things. I will bring a truck with a unimount back with me to bel air. I'll shoot you a text.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Jump the motor from a different battery - if it doesn’t spin, the pump is seized and that’s the huge draw. If it does spin, my guess would be a faulty alternator/charging system that simply can’t keep up so once the new battery drains itself, you are running on empty.


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## Mike N (Dec 21, 2008)

prezek said:


> I'm assuming the old 2 plug unimount is different than the 2 plug ultramount?


No idea.


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## Mike N (Dec 21, 2008)

TSR1225 said:


> Thanks for the response. Closest friend has a fisher setup...he's currently unavailable.
> 
> When you say hydraulics, your thinking where the valves are located (under the plow motor)?
> 
> Currently trying to find solenoid wiring diagram....


I'm thinking the hydraulic pump that the electric motor spins has an issue, as in it's locked up. Solenoid valves fail, but usually not all at once.

One other question, did you try a different controller?


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

Had a similar severe voltage draw/truck dying issue about six years ago with a Western MVP on my 2006 F350.

Here's the thread i posted back then. Last post in the thread details what the dealer replaced to fix it. worked perfect after that

https://www.plowsite.com/threads/mvp-truck-died-cant-lower-plow.159932/page-2


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

prezek said:


> I don't have any loose harnesses. I have to run to joppa to do a few things. I will bring a truck with a unimount back with me to bel air. I'll shoot you a text.


Excellent, that'll work. Thanks


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Mike N said:


> I'm thinking the hydraulic pump that the electric motor spins has an issue, as in it's locked up. Solenoid valves fail, but usually not all at once.
> 
> One other question, did you try a different controller?


Yes sir. Back up controller acted the same way.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

seville009 said:


> Had a similar severe voltage draw/truck dying issue about six years ago with a Western MVP on my 2006 F350.
> 
> Here's the thread i posted back then. Last post in the thread details what the dealer replaced to fix it. worked perfect after that
> 
> https://www.plowsite.com/threads/mvp-truck-died-cant-lower-plow.159932/page-2


Thanks Seville. With my plow side harness replaced, let's hope I'm halfway there and that the truck side is the answer.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

If you have a set of good jumper cables, you can rule out the plow cables


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Randall Ave said:


> If you have a set of good jumper cables, you can rule out the plow cables


Yes


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

ZL1 said:


> Yeah, check your fluid and flow. Contaminated fluid or a plugged pump will cause the motor the overwork and go into cardiac.


....just drained fluid. Let's hope you're right. Good amount of residue on the magnet inside of reservoir.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Very thankful to connect with Prezek today. Thanks for helping troubleshoot.

- putting 12v to plow motor did not cause a reaction. Thinking my Amazon plow motor is crap....

- drained fluid ... no help

- checked and cleaned connection at rear of alternator (battery light on in truck? Trying to give that point some attention as well).

- truck side harness did not help (sadly burnt up harness ... literally melted it). Too much power to truck side harness seems to be a constant. Plug either melts or heats up very quickly.

To be continued. Thanks for the suggestions.


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## seville009 (Sep 9, 2002)

if you still have the original plow motor you took out, test it too - if that wasn’t part of the problem, it may still work fine.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I do not no what you have done, but here is a place to start, clean all of the connections, and because of the year of the truck, the ground connections from battery negative to all the factory connections need to be removed and cleaned.
Remove and clean the terminals on the plow motor, then run battery jumper cable from battery negative to plow motor negative, try operation, if bad, then run a jumper cable from battery positive to motor positive, staying clear of the plow, did the motor operate? No, then remove the motor, bench test motor same way, motor will spin hard and fast, yes, go to the hydraulic pump, cause thats where the problem is, just my guess if all tests come out positive.


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## Mike N (Dec 21, 2008)

TSR1225 said:


> Very thankful to connect with Prezek today. Thanks for helping troubleshoot.
> 
> - putting 12v to plow motor did not cause a reaction. Thinking my Amazon plow motor is crap....
> 
> ...


Sounds like you've ruled out everything but the plow itself and I still suspect an issue with the hydraulic pump. If you remove the electric motor, you should see the tab of the pump that the motor engages...... you should be able to spin that tab by hand.

I'm going to guess the tab won't spin and the pump itself has locked up. That would explain the excessive current draw/voltage drop that you're experiencing.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

TSR1225 said:


> checked and cleaned connection at rear of alternator (battery light on in truck? Trying to give that point some attention as well).


Alternator is bad...more then likely.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Hydraulic pump: when taking the top of the motor off, I spun the ‘internals’ of the plow motor by hand which spun where the male/female of the plow motor would connect. No hold up or fear of a seized pump existed (did this a few times today).

Using needle nose / pliers to spin pump may be next bet (to ensure that the plow motor wasn’t helping).

I’ll surely be at my local parts store to test the alternator. 

A new plow motor will also be on the unit in a day or so.

Agreed. With an old truck that once held a salt spreader, rust and corroded parts are plentiful. Every ground nut under hood was replaced. Weak wires around battery were upgraded.

Battery light on at dash tells me something. Not quite sure what that is yet ha


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Battery light on on the dash means diodes inside the alt are bad and backfeeding positive. Essentially Turing on the light on the dash


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Understood. Sounds like I'll be putting the original alt. back in it and bringing the new one back to be tested. Battery light staying on after installing alt. and battery aligns with your diode thought. 

At what point can I raise hell for them selling me a dud during a storm?

Anyone suggest a quality plow motor for the ole ultra mount? 

Here's a quick clip of the voltage drop:


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

OEM


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Anyone suggest a quality plow motor for the ole ultra mount?
Western OEm


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

10-4 to OEM.

Diodes confirm a one way circuit...that aligns with progression:

1. Plowing at 8am
2. Truck shuts off at 9am
3. Alt installed, trucks dies again at 10am (diodes?)
4. New battery installed. Truck has ran fine since, then plow acted up around 1pm (plow side harness heated up).
5. Replaced plow motor...resulted in voltage drop. Prior to that, plow ran finicky due to harness overheating.

Tough with a few things at play but alternator and plow motor seem to be culprits. Phew.

....got the keys to dads rig, should be ok if called in tomorrow. Not the same as your own unit though!


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Western1 said:


> Anyone suggest a quality plow motor for the ole ultra mount?
> Western OEm


My plow parts stock is 90 percent OEM, I only want to do this once, and his alternator ain't melting his plow cables.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

....this is junk huh?


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

New alternator is in...same reaction by truck.

Didn’t like the connection at rear of alt...will be replacing pigtail next. 

...quite sure I won’t be going the Amazon cheapo route to replace...


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

So it is doing the same thing? It is killing the truck, cables getting hot?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

The batt light still on?


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## Avalanche 2500 (Dec 31, 2015)

A hot wire touching the ground somewhere, is there a Auto Armature shop nearby to bring it to test ?? Before u pull all the hair out of your head :hammerhead:


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Phew. Not getting called in last storm and 50s this week helping.

- battery light still on (ordered alternator harness). 

- 12.7 volts at battery without truck running...14.6 when truck is running. Alternator appears to be charging despite light on at dash.

- swapped alternators out at shop to rule out bad alternator (their machine to test it was down, swapping it best they could do)

- new plow motor installed, same reaction (went with Buyers/SAM motor to avoid waiting 5-7 days in shipping).

- turned plow pump with needle nose. Not seized.

GOTTA be truckside...correct? When I figure out the battery light, I figure out the problem...


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

I’ve got play at the stator connector of alternator (put tape on it trying to tighten it up until harness comes. Sure!) 

Harness should arrive Monday....but with alt charging, I’ll be targeting the starter’s wires tomorrow. 

When you’re running good let it snow. When you’re not, bring on sunny and 75.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

dieselss said:


> The batt light still on?


Yes sir...


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Randall Ave said:


> So it is doing the same thing? It is killing the truck, cables getting hot?


Brings truck to a halt (lights dim very low, dash turns all about off (mileage is digital, miles go blank at touch of controller).

Volts drop to 2-3.

Only wire that has heated up with between plow solenoid and plow motor (truck and plow side power cords got warm, one melted).


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Could stator wire be loose enough to cause plow issue but strong enough to charge battery? We shall see.


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

I wouldn't 100% rule out that truck side harness...of course that would mean there were 2 issues from the start possibly...that stud on the motor was quite loose...could that have been the reason the spare harness melted?...still wouldn't explain the truck side light...I assume you did swap the battery?....to test the harness (or at least the ground side of it) as Randall mentioned, use jumper cables from battery to negative on motor. Then try and use your plow controller....

@Randall Ave or anyone else-all jumper cables did was arc when hooking up...motor didn't engage. Any idea?


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

You hooked up power and ground with jumper cables and motor didn’t run?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Look, its been a really long day and I'm in a mood. What tests have you performed? The truck engine is dying because the voltage drops below what the engine needs to run, it is not the alternator. 
You need to do the jumper cable test as was stated before. And did the hydraulic pump spin freely with the Elec motor removed?


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

prezek said:


> I wouldn't 100% rule out that truck side harness...of course that would mean there were 2 issues from the start possibly...that stud on the motor was quite loose...could that have been the reason the spare harness melted?...still wouldn't explain the truck side light...I assume you did swap the battery?....to test the harness (or at least the ground side of it) as Randall mentioned, use jumper cables from battery to negative on motor. Then try and use your plow controller....
> 
> @Randall Ave or anyone else-all jumper cables did was arc when hooking up...motor didn't engage. Any idea?


Agreed on truck-side harness.

- Yes, new battery installed (upgraded to AC Delco).

- after installing new plow motor tonight, I'll jump new motor tomorrow (did it test the new motor, but yes, the previous test that we competed did not initiate the motor

- good chance that my Amazon motor was crap. Looking closer at it's internals, brushes / connections weren't great.

- yes, packing nut was loose. Still no reaction after tightening...


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Randall Ave said:


> Look, its been a really long day and I'm in a mood. What tests have you performed? The truck engine is dying because the voltage drops below what the engine needs to run, it is not the alternator.
> You need to do the jumper cable test as was stated before. And did the hydraulic pump spin freely with the Elec motor removed?


No tests have been completed with new Buyers/SAM motor tonight.

Previous test with crap Amazon motor:
- jumper cables to motor (no reaction)

- jumping large bolts on solenoid (no reaction). JThomas solenoid has been replaced with western solenoid (thanks again).

- 12 volts at truckside power cord. Got strange readings at Amazon motor posts (which was my final straw before replacing it).

Yes. Pump spun very well with electric motor removed (used needle nose). Happy to see that it wasn't seized. Cleaned around coils and checked that coils were connected well.

Contact is telling me to check grounds on truck (not just under hood, at frame). Truck carried a salt spreader in a previous life...good chance grounds on undercarriage / frame are causing voltage drop.

I've replaced and checked three bolts under the hood (passed ground test w volt reader but failed my visual test - very rusty)

I'll be under it with creeper tomorrow locating grounds.

Thanks for feedback on alternator. Two new alternators being installed and the fact that the alternator is charging the battery steered me away from the stator wire being the problem (although it's entirely too loose for my liking).


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Western1 said:


> You hooked up power and ground with jumper cables and motor didn't run?


Yes, did this w Amazon motor (no reaction). Will hook up power to new motor tomorrow. She better sing


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Found two bad grounds on truck thus far.

- negative wire off battery (heading to block?)
- frame to body ground fell off in my hand...

Poor grounds leading to an overheating plow harness? 

I’ll holler once these are replaced and after jumping new plow motor.

Thanks again for the ideas and suggestions.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Very subtle improvement after upgrading those two grounds (truck now drops to 9 volts instead of almost shutting off haha). If you aren’t laughing, you’re crying.

- new plow motor did not like being jumped which concerns me. Put jumper cables from battery to plow motor, sparked at positive cable of battery good enough for me to take it off. Plow motor didn’t sing...


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

TSR1225 said:


> Very subtle improvement after upgrading those two grounds (truck now drops to 9 volts instead of almost shutting off haha). If you aren't laughing, you're crying.
> 
> - new plow motor did not like being jumped which concerns me. Put jumper cables from battery to plow motor, sparked at positive cable of battery good enough for me to take it off. Plow motor didn't sing...


Did you connect a ground as well to the plow motor?


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## rizzoa13 (Oct 20, 2018)

It sure as hell sounds like your grounding something out when you call with the controller.

Your saying that you hooked the negative side of the motor up to the negative on the battery with the jumper and then when doing the same with positive you got a ton of sparks? Hook up the negatives like you did and then test the positive side of the motor to see if it’s grounded out. I’m wondering if somehow the positive side is catching ground and when you call with the controller positive is let through the solenoid, starts grounding out and voltage drops off sharply.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Western1 said:


> Did you connect a ground as well to the plow motor?


Positive and negative connected plow motor.

Negative side of battery first. Then touched positive side of battery next.


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## rizzoa13 (Oct 20, 2018)

TSR1225 said:


> Positive and negative connected plow motor.
> 
> Negative side of battery first. Then touched positive side of battery next.


Go to battery first. Do this sequence.

Battery negative - motor negative
Battery positive - motor positive

Do you get violent sparking at the motor positive terminal? Remove just the motor positive (leaving battery negative, motor negative and battery negative connected) and get a multimeter on it. Black probe on motor POSITIVE and red probe on positive end of jumper cables. If you are showing 12v then the positive stud of the motor is catching ground which indicates something is wired wrong or the motors damaged and grounding out inside.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

rizzoa13 said:


> Go to battery first. Do this sequence.
> 
> Battery negative - motor negative
> Battery positive - motor positive
> ...


Gotcha, will do.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Slight progress: wiggled stator wire off alternator, battery light turned off....

New harness incoming, let’s hope that fixes battery light....


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

1. Negative battery post
2. Negative plow motor post
3. Positive battery post
4. Positive plow motor post....sparked as seen below.

*Yes, I knocked the cap off of gray breather


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Your going to get a spark. Did the motor work?


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Did you unplug factory harness?


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Looked at your video. Unhook the power wire off the plow motor stud. Then try jumper cables. If almost no sparks,and motor runs, you have wires crossed somewhere.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

That looks like a bad spark


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Western1 said:


> That looks like a bad spark


I can't see it on my phone.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Randall Ave said:


> Your going to get a spark. Did the motor work?


No sir, no motor movement at all.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

TSR1225 said:


> No sir, no motor movement at all.


How about with the cable off like I suggested?


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

As I believe Western said, tough to diagnose when split between truckside and plowside hiccups. I’ll be outside to continue this afternoon.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

So jumper cables from battery straight to plow motor and nothing happened?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

dieselss said:


> So jumper cables from battery straight to plow motor and nothing happened?


I just read the complete thread, these are very simple electrical systems. I'm just wondering if he connected the cables to the electric motor backwards.


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

If you wanted to drop the plow, you are still welcome to meet to try plugging into one of my unimounts...would quickly isolate truck or plow.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

GIDDYUP


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## rizzoa13 (Oct 20, 2018)

Yea thats a bad spark for sure. Put negative lead of tester on positive side of plow motor, positive tester lead to positive end of jumper cable coming off the battery. If it reads 12v then that positive motor side is getting negative somehow (bad internals or incorrect wiring).


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

rizzoa13 said:


> Yea thats a bad spark for sure. Put negative lead of tester on positive side of plow motor, positive tester lead to positive end of jumper cable coming off the battery. If it reads 12v then that positive motor side is getting negative somehow (bad internals or incorrect wiring).


I think this is his second motor. His stator wire on his alternator ain't causing his cable to melt, or the bad spark. I would remove the electric motor and bench test it. Then go from there.


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## rizzoa13 (Oct 20, 2018)

I just reread the original post and if I had to hazard a guess id say when he pushed up into that pile a ground either came lose at a connection or a corroded point inside the wire sheathing frayed. This would cause the large resistance when the motors called. 

I had a problem with the starter on a dump truck. Re-did every ground on a cat motor (why are there so many?), new batteries, and tried jumping the starter solenoid. Nothing. Only wire I didn't redo was the ground from starter to block, pulled on it and it felt great. So I had to cut the starter off with a grinder and sawzall so that I could get an angle to extract the seized bolts. Pull the starter out and it puts weight on that last ground and wouldn't you know it half way up the wire it was completely corroded through inside the sheathing. Starter was probably fine too...

Check everything again because a big draw usually signals a bad ground somewhere.


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Agreed Randall. Simple stuff.

Only update is the battery light is off (“one small step for man”). Replacing stator wire was fix there.

Plow reacted the same. Volts dropping down to about 8/9 on the dash, lights dimming.

With batt light off I’ll be focusing on plowside. Couldn’t rule out truckside with that light on.

Didn’t have time to put cables back on motor - will do what the other individual suggested next.


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## Mike N (Dec 21, 2008)

I'd still like to see you plug the truck into a known good plow. At that point, you could eliminate the plow or the truck as being the problem.


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)




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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Western1 said:


>


No beverage?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Update


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

With beverage?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

dieselss said:


> Update


Been wondering myself.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

It sounds like the truck engine is using the plow connections to ground. When theplow is activted the engine ground is lost and dies.
I would look at your engine ground cable as well as make sure the plow ground is directly wired to the battery.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Outcome on this?


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)




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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Western1 said:


>


Just coffee for now.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Randall Ave said:


> Outcome on this?


My guess: voltage still dropping severely


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## rizzoa13 (Oct 20, 2018)

Snow ended, next years problem.


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

I ran into him the other day. Was still having issues. Sounds like our area is done for the year, so may be on the back burner?


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## Western1 (Dec 4, 2008)

Yes


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## TSR1225 (Nov 10, 2013)

Next year's problem was right. Never resolved, picking up where I left off in March. 

Also in the market for my first Fisher plow. New truck came with a Fisher mount.

I'll holler when there's an update on the Western. Starting here:

- Trying to find a known operable plow to try. 
- Checking truck grounds (truck using plow to ground makes sense from a previous post). I spruced up a few 'easy to reach' grounds. Sounds like that wasn't enough.


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## prezek (Dec 16, 2010)

Ever figure out your issue?


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