# New owner of 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport



## DJ Contracting

So I couldn't pass up the deal, here it is a friend told me that he was thing of putting his Jeep up for sale. Knowing him and he was the second owner I asked him how much, he said for me $1,500.00. He said that he just had some work done on the 4X4 (didn't ask him what was done) anyway I told him that I would take it. so here she is, now all I need is input as for what size and recommended plows and upgrades for this vehicle?


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## JeepTJ

Nice looking XJ Thumbs Up Great price!! Since this is a light-weight, short wheelbase vehicle, my suggestions would be:

1. Real snow tires--keeps you from getting stuck
2. Locking front differentail--helps you get unstuck
3. Stronger front axle u-joints--yes they break trying to get unstuck
4. Air bags in front coil springs--to carry the plow weight
5. Air shocks in the rear to carry the 500 pounds of ballast--for better rear traction
6. Transmission cooler--if auto transmission
7. 6.5 to 7.5 foot wide plow--I like my SnoWay with down pressure
8. Check the cylinder head-- The '00's are prone to cracking

I have all but 6 & 8 on my '00 XJ.

Fran


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## 1ATony

Man you stole that XJ for 1,500 It looks really clean. Does it have the 4.0 in it?


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## DJ Contracting

JeepTJ;1509508 said:


> Nice looking XJ Thumbs Up Great price!! Since this is a light-weight, short wheelbase vehicle, my suggestions would be:
> 
> 1. Real snow tires--keeps you from getting stuck
> 2. Locking front differentail--helps you get unstuck
> 3. Stronger front axle u-joints--yes they break trying to get unstuck
> 4. Air bags in front coil springs--to carry the plow weight
> 5. Air shocks in the rear to carry the 500 pounds of ballast--for better rear traction
> 6. Transmission cooler--if auto transmission
> 7. 6.5 to 7.5 foot wide plow--I like my SnoWay with down pressure
> 8. Check the cylinder head-- The '00's are prone to cracking
> 
> I have all but 6 & 8 on my '00 XJ.
> 
> Thanks for the good tips
> 
> Fran





1ATony;1512176 said:


> Man you stole that XJ for 1,500 It looks really clean. Does it have the 4.0 in it?


Yes sir it does, this XJ is very solid as it came from Virginia. Thanks


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## DieselSlug

Very clean xj! My brother has a Chilli Pepper red one, i will find a pic.


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## DieselSlug

This one has a budget boost lift, b-stard packed leaves. Its a 97' with 130K, he paid $1800! Just needed an alignment and tires! I did the alignment with a tape measure in the guys driveway. Set it to 1/8-1/16'' and all good!


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## affekonig

JeepTJ's suggestions are good, but I've been getting away just fine with far less. I run a 7'2" Unimount LSX blade with wings or a 7' Unimount Standard on mine with air shocks in front, a trans cooler and Winterforce tires. It pushes like a champ and mine doesn't get stuck...

Video:

__
https://flic.kr/p/5413425002


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## 1ATony

I like the Ravine wheels on that XJ...looks great!


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## DieselSlug

Thanks! My brother has had many vehicles that have had major failures so he needed a cheap reliable set of wheels. So ultimately cherokees came to mind. Have not had a single issue with it so far. Sits on 30" mtr treadwrights.


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## 1ATony

DieselSlug;1512510 said:


> Thanks! My brother has had many vehicles that have had major failures so he needed a cheap reliable set of wheels. So ultimately cherokees came to mind. Have not had a single issue with it so far. Sits on 30" mtr treadwrights.


I have a 97 ZJ and an 04 WJ. Going up 3.5" in the spring on the ZJ with an IRO lift.Thumbs Up


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## MLG

Well, what are you planning to plow? It kind of makes a difference because you'll want something lighter for smaller driveways than long parking lots.

I personally would shoot for a lighter weight plow. The heavier plow are going to wreck your front end and steering parts. I have a Meyer 7' plow on mine and while it moves snow pretty well, its been hard on the front end components. Not the axle so much, but springs, bushings, steering components and wheel bearings. The plow was on mine when I got it and the springs were broke, u-joints completely shot and steering loose. I've corrected those things, but I can see that a 7" plow (the old Meyer plow) is just a little too much for this rig. I've looked for something lighter and saw a few this summer I missed. 

Plus, a large plow is somewhat unwieldy on these rigs and when you get into tight spots where you need to do a fair amount of turning around a light plow is going to put a LOT less stress on your font axle u-joints. I'd shoot for like a 6' or 6 1/2' plastic plow. 

You definitely want air shocks up front and, yeah, a tranny cooler. I would say snow tires, but I went back to all-season tires and I haven't noticed any reduced plowing abilities, plut it's quieter. Might try the tires you currently have first. Good luck!


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## DJ Contracting

MLG;1512702 said:


> Well, what are you planning to plow? It kind of makes a difference because you'll want something lighter for smaller driveways than long parking lots.
> 
> I personally would shoot for a lighter weight plow. The heavier plow are going to wreck your front end and steering parts. I have a Meyer 7' plow on mine and while it moves snow pretty well, its been hard on the front end components. Not the axle so much, but springs, bushings, steering components and wheel bearings. The plow was on mine when I got it and the springs were broke, u-joints completely shot and steering loose. I've corrected those things, but I can see that a 7" plow (the old Meyer plow) is just a little too much for this rig. I've looked for something lighter and saw a few this summer I missed.
> 
> Plus, a large plow is somewhat unwieldy on these rigs and when you get into tight spots where you need to do a fair amount of turning around a light plow is going to put a LOT less stress on your font axle u-joints. I'd shoot for like a 6' or 6 1/2' plastic plow.
> 
> You definitely want air shocks up front and, yeah, a tranny cooler. I would say snow tires, but I went back to all-season tires and I haven't noticed any reduced plowing abilities, plut it's quieter. Might try the tires you currently have first. Good luck!


So air shocks will work for keeping the front of the truck level with the plow on?


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## DJ Contracting

affekonig;1512465 said:


> JeepTJ's suggestions are good, but I've been getting away just fine with far less. I run a 7'2" Unimount LSX blade with wings or a 7' Unimount Standard on mine with air shocks in front, a trans cooler and Winterforce tires. It pushes like a champ and mine doesn't get stuck...
> 
> Video:
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/5413425002


Nice video. Do you have any pictures of the plow mount?


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## MLG

> So air shocks will work for keeping the front of the truck level with the plow on?


That and it helps distribute some of the weight so it's not all on your front springs. My brother was looking at a Cherokee with a plow on it and it also had both front springs broken (like mine was when I got it). When I installed new front springs, I went with HD springs with are a larger diam. wire size. They probably weren't necessary with the air shocks. Air shocks give sort of a floating ride and I'm not sure I'm sold on the ride. I guess a lot of it comes down to how much snow you think you'll be plowing and, again, the weight of your plow. If you put a 7 1/2 foot monster on it, you're going to be in the weeds for sure. If you put on a sensible light plow, and don't do a whole lot of plowing, you may not even need the air shocks. Another benefit with a lighter plow is you most likely don't need much balast in the rear.


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## DJ Contracting

Well I made a trip to Pittsburgh PA. Sunday in the Jeep XJ, & I have to say I'm pleased with the XJ. I got 19.5 mpg's on the trip there with a strong head wind, picked up my son & headed back to Mich. With the wind at my back I got 22 mpg's. All and all like I said I'm pleased the XJ had good power, getting on and off the highway, and with a 4.0 liter 4X4 in a brick if a body style it did good.


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## gunsworth

Good price, but they are known for cracking heads and piston failure.... 00-01 Cherokees have a 4.0 that is almost completely different from the older ones and ones used in the wranglers and grand cherokees. found this out the hard way on ours. It will show no signs of a problem and next thing you know your piston will shoot through the block in golfball sized peices. and for the head, keep a close eye on the temp guage, a slight overheating situation and it cracks below the oil cap.

Those are crazy mpgs too, with our fully rebuilt engine i have yet to see above 17mpg, but we have a small lift and 30in tires


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## DieselSlug

My brothers window sticker on his 97 cherokee sayd 17-21 mpgs..


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## affekonig

DJ Contracting;1512756 said:


> Nice video. Do you have any pictures of the plow mount?


The mount is just the standard Western Unimount mount for an XJ. Kind of a bad picture, but here's one from the day I put it on:


IMG00231-20100221-1114.jpg by affekonig2000, on Flickr


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## DJ Contracting

affekonig;1515272 said:


> The mount is just the standard Western Unimount mount for an XJ. Kind of a bad picture, but here's one from the day I put it on:
> 
> 
> IMG00231-20100221-1114.jpg by affekonig2000, on Flickr


So did you have to pull the front bumper to run a plow or were you in the middle of the install?


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## affekonig

Just had to remove the bumper to install the mount. Bumper goes back on and looks like any other unimount mount. Hmm, like this:


1997 Jeep Cherokee XJ by affekonig2000, on Flickr


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## DJ Contracting

Ohh looks good.


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## 01Cherokee

Kool. I had mine for about a year now . My dad plows and Im interested on getting one I been shopping around on craigslist and haven't found anything


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## Hubjeep

Nice Jeep and great deal on it.

I modded a Western Suburbanite plow mount from a Jeep TJ to fit the XJ. Western does not make a mount for that plow to fit on the XJ Cherokee. Here is my thread from years ago, holding up great. I only plow about 8 driveways, really like the light weight (no need for suspension mods and easier on the front end).

www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=87357

This plow was a killer deal. I would ideally go with a 7' or 7.5' on the XJ though. IMO it's better (and less wear) to make fewer passes pushing a little more than more; Drive-Reverse-Drive-Reverse-Drive-Reverse.

Year 2000 brought with it the coil rail replacing the distributor on the 4.0L Jeep engine, which required a head with the threaded mounts for the rail to sit on, some of these heads would crack between two cylinders allowing coolant into the oil. Just check the oil for milkyness. A friend had one that cracked, another friend has one with 215K miles that is fine. Don't worry too much about it.



JeepTJ;1509508 said:


> Nice looking XJ Thumbs Up Great price!! Since this is a light-weight, short wheelbase vehicle, my suggestions would be:
> 
> 1. Real snow tires--keeps you from getting stuck
> 2. Locking front differentail--helps you get unstuck
> 3. Stronger front axle u-joints--yes they break trying to get unstuck
> 4. Air bags in front coil springs--to carry the plow weight
> 5. Air shocks in the rear to carry the 500 pounds of ballast--for better rear traction
> 6. Transmission cooler--if auto transmission
> 7. 6.5 to 7.5 foot wide plow--I like my SnoWay with down pressure
> 8. Check the cylinder head-- The '00's are prone to cracking
> 
> I have all but 6 & 8 on my '00 XJ.
> Fran


Good list Fran, especially for someone plowing a lot. I have gotten by fine with all-season tires (I know thye do help a lot though), open differentials, and no ballast in the rear. Like anything, there are many levels of preparedness.

I say #6 is the most important on the list! Also trans temp gauge. XJ's have really nice automatics! Before the trans cooler mine would frequently see 210*... yuck! My fluid change when Jeep was new to me was at 121K miles, brown as gravy. Changed it a number of times since then, now at 205K miles.


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## PLOWMAN45

i wouldn't put a 7.5 plow on a jeep 7.0 max


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## nicks_xj

Best plow would be a snoway plow for the down pressure but I'd put a snowdogg md75 on it lightweight and stainless moldboard and because i don't like cylinder lift plows that much because you can't high chain it if you have a problem with the blade not lifting


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## theplowmeister

nicks_xj;1853173 said:


> Best plow would be a snoway plow for the down pressure but I'd put a snowdogg md75 on it lightweight and stainless moldboard and because i don't like cylinder lift plows that much because you can't high chain it if you have a problem with the blade not lifting


Hear we go again that is bull ****... you can high chain them, but instead of the chain already on the plow you have to carry a chain or ratchet strap or rope....


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## nicks_xj

theplowmeister;1853851 said:


> Hear we go again that is bull ****... you can high chain them, but instead of the chain already on the plow you have to carry a chain or ratchet strap or rope....


My bad plowmeister i just didn't know if the bar holding the lights could hold the weight of the plow with out bending or something must of missed the previous talk about this lol


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## DJ Contracting

*Waiting for the snow*

Looking forward to the second snow season for my Jeep. Last season went well with the 6.6 Snoway plow. I had 300lbs of sand bags in the rear of the jeep which helped out tremendously with traction. I only used the Jeep when two trucks were needed, otherwise it just stayed in the garage. This year I was asked to give bids on 5 new commercial accounts and got them all even tho I priced the on the higher end. I'll try and take more pictures and videos this winter season.


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## scottL

TImbrens for the front. When you stack snow the weight and impact will pop average air shocks.

Air shocks in the back to hold the ballast you'll need.

Trans cooler Thumbs Up

Front axle passenger ujoint - just replace it now with moog part.

Power flush trans and put a conditioner in it - yes, just do it.

For plows you can NOT beat the snoway with the down pressure. it gives you the light weight, harder working plow but then you flip a switch and get the pressure which is awesome!

Never had a head crack problem - but then I check the oil before every snow event or 1k miles which ever comes first.


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## DJ Contracting

scottL;1875267 said:


> TImbrens for the front. When you stack snow the weight and impact will pop average air shocks.
> 
> Air shocks in the back to hold the ballast you'll need.
> 
> Trans cooler Thumbs Up
> 
> Front axle passenger ujoint - just replace it now with moog part.
> 
> Power flush trans and put a conditioner in it - yes, just do it.
> 
> For plows you can NOT beat the snoway with the down pressure. it gives you the light weight, harder working plow but then you flip a switch and get the pressure which is awesome!
> 
> Never had a head crack problem - but then I check the oil before every snow event or 1k miles which ever comes first.


The Jeep only plowed 4 times last winter and so far hasn't come out this season, I'll do a trans service after this winter, and add a trans cooler at that time. I put the plow on for a back up or if we get hammered with snow. I installed a 3" budget lift last season in the front, but only got about 2" of lift. At the time of installation, I couldn't get the isolators back in so I think I lost a bit of lift. I did replace all 4 shocks at the time, (no air shocks) the U-joints were replaced just prior to purchasing the Jeep. I'm running #280 of sand bags in the rear which seems to help. Now I'm looking to see where to mount the ginormous square plow controller. I check the oil at least twice a month and it has had full synthetic oil changes from the original owner to present.


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## theplowmeister

scottL;1875267 said:


> TImbrens for the front. When you stack snow the weight and impact will pop average air shocks.
> 
> Air shocks in the back to hold the ballast you'll need.
> 
> Trans cooler Thumbs Up
> 
> Front axle passenger ujoint - just replace it now with moog part.
> 
> Power flush trans and put a conditioner in it - yes, just do it.
> 
> For plows you can NOT beat the snoway with the down pressure. it gives you the light weight, harder working plow but then you flip a switch and get the pressure which is awesome!
> 
> Never had a head crack problem - but then I check the oil before every snow event or 1k miles which ever comes first.


WOW just where do you get your info? never herd of that happening. after using air shocks (front /rear or front only) for 24 YEARS of plowing even with a Boss V plow ~700 lb plus stacking snow. And on 5 jeeps my friend also used jeeps with air shocks and re ran 3 jeeps Nor has any one on hear (that Ive read) had a problem "pop" an air shock.


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## Jeep_thing

scottL;1875267 said:


> TImbrens for the front. When you stack snow the weight and impact will pop average air shocks.
> 
> Air shocks in the back to hold the ballast you'll need.
> 
> Trans cooler Thumbs Up
> 
> Front axle passenger ujoint - just replace it now with moog part.
> 
> Power flush trans and put a conditioner in it - yes, just do it.
> 
> For plows you can NOT beat the snoway with the down pressure. it gives you the light weight, harder working plow but then you flip a switch and get the pressure which is awesome!
> 
> Never had a head crack problem - but then I check the oil before every snow event or 1k miles which ever comes first.


Heads do not crack due to lack of oil, they crack from engine overheating which is usually from freeze plug rot or clogged radiator.


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## scottL

Two Responses.

If you let your jeep over heat from a bad freeze plug ... Um How drunk are you to not notice your gauges? No or low oil is friction - number one way to get enough energy for the piston to stick then shoot through as on poster claimed. Also a great way to increase heat.

Second response .... Your putting a v-plow on a jeep? Wow not overloading that too much 

Air shocks can pop. Call it leak out, line pop, whatever. Shock mounts are not designed to carry the full load of the vehicle plus the weight of 700-900 pounds from a plow. Then add the weight of the snow when lifting....Genius you are for overloading the jeep. Wonder why cops love folks like you.


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## novawagonmaster

PLOWMAN45;1838178 said:


> i wouldn't put a 7.5 plow on a jeep 7.0 max


I have a 7.5' Fisher HT on my '00 Wrangler, and it is working out great!

I have air shocks front and rear, Blizzak tires, open diffs, and 280# of sand tubes in the back. The Jeep drives just fine on the road, sits level with the plow raised off the ground, and it is a driveway plowing beast. First snow of the season was 6-8" of heavy wet crap, and I was pushing it with little effort.

Would I use this setup to plow a foot of snow at Wal-Mart? Hell no!

There is always more than one tool to get the job done, but often there is a better tool to make the job easier/more efficient.


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## Jeep_thing

scottL;1876481 said:


> Two Responses.
> 
> If you let your jeep over heat from a bad freeze plug ... Um How drunk are you to not notice your gauges? No or low oil is friction - number one way to get enough energy for the piston to stick then shoot through as on poster claimed. Also a great way to increase heat.
> 
> Second response .... Your putting a v-plow on a jeep? Wow not overloading that too much
> 
> Air shocks can pop. Call it leak out, line pop, whatever. Shock mounts are not designed to carry the full load of the vehicle plus the weight of 700-900 pounds from a plow. Then add the weight of the snow when lifting....Genius you are for overloading the jeep. Wonder why cops love folks like you.


You apparently have not seen the inside or rebuilt an engine before, and that is ok but your little fantasy of how a cylinder head cracks is totally untrue.

First, I own an automotive machine shop and have been rebuilding engines for 40 years. I assure you that I have seen it all. I have machined and rebuilt dozens and dozens, probably over a hundred 4.0 and 4.2 heads and engines.

You run an engine low or out of oil and the connecting rod bearings wear, as well as the crankshaft. The engine starts knocking, but the pistons and cylinder walls are still lubricated from residual splash oil. Jeep engines have a ton of piston to head clearance, probably .200", and I have never seen one come close to touching the head. And they will never 'shoot off' or whatever the hell that means. 

The heads crack 100% of the time due to overheating. When coolant level gets low, there is no coolant in the highest point of the cooling system which is the cylinder head. The hottest part of an engine is the exhaust seats, and without cooing these are the first to crack. As the engine continues to run hot the head warps, like a banana. This stresses the top of the head in the center, between the valve springs and cracks it. Think of bending a piece of styrofoam- the top surface cracks and splits.

Now, your statement about 'the full weight of the vehicle plus 700-900 pounds on a shock mount is again, ridiculous. You don't think the springs are supporting any weight? :laughing:

If I pull up on the bumper of a car one inch, am I lifting 2000 pounds? No. Maybe 100. If I spot someone bench pressing 350 pounds am I lifting 350 pounds? No- I am assisting with the extra weight he is struggling with, maybe 25 pounds.

Btw, who is putting a 900 pound plow on a jeep? :laughing:


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## mrgarciainc

DJ Contracting said:


> *Waiting for the snow*
> 
> Looking forward to the second snow season for my Jeep. Last season went well with the 6.6 Snoway plow. I had 300lbs of sand bags in the rear of the jeep which helped out tremendously with traction. I only used the Jeep when two trucks were needed, otherwise it just stayed in the garage. This year I was asked to give bids on 5 new commercial accounts and got them all even tho I priced the on the higher end. I'll try and take more pictures and videos this winter season.
> 
> View attachment 139035


I know this an old post...but i have a series 22 Snoway that my cousin wants to put on his XJ. What did you use for the mount? Ive been looking but there doesnt seem to be one available.


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## DJ Contracting

I used a Western unimount bracket for a Jeep XJ then welded the snoway bracket in the middle of the Western bracket. Worked out perfectly.


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## mrgarciainc

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm assuming this is what you used? One for each corresponding side? And welded Sno-Way mount onto this?

https://www.storksplows.com/61979-w...m-1984-2002-jeep-cherokee-comanche-mount.html


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## DJ Contracting

Yes that would work, however I bought a complete Western used truck mount, used two 1" spacers per side (snoway mount was narrower) then welded it all together.


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## Doubleplowman

I have 2 xj's one has a 7'western uni And a 7' snowman rear plow. The other has a 6'6"uni and a6'6" snowman reAr plow


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## EWSplow

Doubleplowman said:


> View attachment 206382
> View attachment 206383
> View attachment 206384
> View attachment 206385
> I have 2 xj's one has a 7'western uni And a 7' snowman rear plow. The other has a 6'6"uni and a6'6" snowman reAr plow


Nice setups.
What suspension modifications did you make? 
One is obviously lifted. 
Looks like you have a wrangler too. Any plow on that?


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## WhitePlowr

You guys need a summer plow


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## WhitePlowr

add a shock to your 6.6 or 7ft so beautiful


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## WhitePlowr

I have the heavy duty quad that had the lower shock bracket already there so it was much easier to line up and all.


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## Lockman75

Great look'n Jeep & deal, Sir.
Mine's coming along...... frustratingly . New pump motor arrives tomorrow . Everythin' better be finally good in my world after that !
















Rebuilt just 'bout everythin' , since this Pic................


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## WhitePlowr

is that a meyers plow with a western cable pump system? if you are doing your own driveway its ok but driveways for money. gotta get rid of that and do a full western unimount


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## Lockman75

WhitePlowr said:


> is that a meyers plow with a western cable pump system? if you are doing your own driveway its ok but driveways for money. gotta get rid of that and do a full western unimount


Yep, it sure is....... got the whole shebang for mine & my family's driveways only...... $500 & the blades a 6 footer. Just what I wanted. 
Ive got 2 E60's for free..... both are good to go


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## Hydromaster

WhitePlowr said:


> is that a meyers plow with a western cable pump system? if you are doing your own driveway its ok but driveways for money. gotta get rid of that and do a full western unimount


Why?

I have a western power unit on my old Meyer setup too.
And I plowed commercials with it for years.


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## WhitePlowr

usually the meyers pumps are problematic with the valves but if you have western pump then you are in better shape. I've only ever used western new and used plows using in residential and commercial and the only problem i had was an old hose blowing out because i was smashing piles lol


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## Lockman75

WhitePlowr said:


> usually the meyers pumps are problematic with the valves but if you have western pump then you are in better shape. I've only ever used western new and used plows using in residential and commercial and the only problem i had was an old hose blowing out because i was smashing piles lol


LoL......so , you didn't have any toys when you were a kid?


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## WhitePlowr

a few


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## Lockman75

So.....Having trouble going left & right , after Power Unit rebuild . Motor runs in both positions. Rebuilding the Meyer angling rams. Left side packing was in pieces , Right side was OK, but was well past due. We shall see Tomorrow


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## WhitePlowr

good luck , get a western for a back up


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## Lockman75

Rebuilt both angling rams & installed new hoses & stainless fittings . I've had no Luck on the angling issue..........:angry: Everything has been cleaned , replaced , & Rebuilt to spec's . Bled & bled & bled......A little bit of air every time . Even pushed left, & right against the most hated tree on our property..... Nut'n . It's kinda gurgling on left & right control, with motor running both ways, but that's as far as I get. 
Goes up & down perfectly ?


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## DJ Contracting

Lockman75 said:


> Rebuilt both angling rams & installed new hoses & stainless fittings . I've had no Luck on the angling issue..........:angry: Everything has been cleaned , replaced , & Rebuilt to spec's . Bled & bled & bled......A little bit of air every time . Even pushed left, & right against the most hated tree on our property..... Nut'n . It's kinda gurgling on left & right control, with motor running both ways, but that's as far as I get.
> Goes up & down perfectly ?


Those cable plows can be tricky adjusting the cables.


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## Lockman75

Well............I thought about it & asked about it. This is what I did..........



















































The 'Ol Western was Scream'n for it's own battery. Shoehorned this in & installed a Cyrix controller that I remembered from my Marina days .........
Plow goes Left & right, with virtually zero voltage drop now. Just gotta secure some wiring & fab a Stronger bracket for the Cab Controller.
P.S. I will NEVER do this job again ....But I'm pleased right Now.


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