# Blade tip vs. Edge trip



## E Condit (Dec 30, 2004)

Greetings all ...

I just switched from my old 300,000 mi. 89 Chevy with a Western blade tip to an 04 Chevy with a Fisher Minute mount II edge trip. My issue... I plow 2 gravel driveways. When the ground isn't frozen yet, the heavy fisher digs in like an escavator! With the Western, I could see the blade start to tip and pull it up. With the fisher there is almost no time to react even going slow. 
Also ..I noticed that the cutting edge angle on my Western seemed to be set up to scrape and the cutting edge angle on the Fisher seems to scoup more. Anyone have any thoughts on adjusting the angle using the three old style mounting holes on the blade? That would change the geometry between the blade and the head gear, and put the cutting edge more vertical.

Thanks 

Everett Condit


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## streetfrog (Dec 9, 2007)

First off use the middle or lower hole. The A frame should be level or tilted up (on back end) just a lil bit. As for the gravel drives pit the shoes on for those OR just float the blade barely off the ground for the first plow. This will leave a slight layer of snow/ice so you wont dig down next time.


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## bribrius (May 5, 2007)

E Condit;492763 said:


> Greetings all ...
> 
> I just switched from my old 300,000 mi. 89 Chevy with a Western blade tip to an 04 Chevy with a Fisher Minute mount II edge trip. My issue... I plow 2 gravel driveways. When the ground isn't frozen yet, the heavy fisher digs in like an escavator! With the Western, I could see the blade start to tip and pull it up. With the fisher there is almost no time to react even going slow.
> Also ..I noticed that the cutting edge angle on my Western seemed to be set up to scrape and the cutting edge angle on the Fisher seems to scoup more. Anyone have any thoughts on adjusting the angle using the three old style mounting holes on the blade? That would change the geometry between the blade and the head gear, and put the cutting edge more vertical.
> ...


i second the shoes even though you dont really NEED them. If you only do gravel run the shoes below the edge. If you do both gravel and tar might as well run the shoes just above the edge because your not going to want to get out and move spacers over and over. Running above will allow you to scrape the tar better while still helping a little on gravel or on dirt.
i usually skim the top on gravel for the first plow as said before or even just bring it up enough to take the slack out of the chain and some of the downforce off basically reducing the weight on the ground. sometimes if i want to get some of the ice up or scrape a gravel drive down a little i will just take it slow and watch the top of the blade. im not looking for it to tip forward since it is isn't full trip im looking for any sudden drops meaning it went into a dip. then i nudge it up a hair which takes it out of float and raises so it is less likely to dig into the next dip and is at the right level. just like when you push off the edge of a drive onto a lawn. watch the blade drop then bump it up so not to dig into the lawn and taking it off float. If you go on the lawn enough to have the back tires on it you can lower the blade down a little more since now the truck is level and the blade isnt pointed down toward the ground where it can dig in. you can take some slack out of the chain to help from digging in on dips so the plow isnt allowed to drop too far when floating. i actually run mine with a little extra slack because i like my blade dropping a little more in float. Angling the blade helps too. Plowing from level up onto a dirt or a grass hill is a little tougher since the blade is automatically going to want to dig in and it takes some skill to be able to nudge it up with the slope of the terrain so it doesnt dig as you go up the incline. One of those instances where i think the faster working hydraulics on the newer plows makes being delicate or precise hard. I think once you get used to it you will like the trip edge just takes practice and understanding where your blade is compared to the ground even though you cant actually see it.
my two cents. PRACTICE. good thing about a trip edge over a full trip? i think it is less likley to ride up over ice and snow. even if it trips it pushes without riding up on you.


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## E Condit (Dec 30, 2004)

Thanks for the replies...
I did have the blade angled to the max.
I plowed with the skid shoes on for the first storm (the ground was frozen), but it left about an inch of snow that packed into a glacier (wife loved that). I think I will try moving the pins holding the blade to the head gear to get a more vertical cutting edge, more scrape less scoup). I agree I need more practice with the Fisher, especially with lowering the blade part way. With my Western, I could lower the blade A little bit and stop it before it hit the ground. With the Fisher, as soon as I move the stick to lower it a little, it goes all the way down. 

E Condit


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

My blade scoops more than it scrapes, and I'm pretty sure it's the hole choice when it was installed. They used the middle hole, which made the A-frame angle upward without any ballast. Now, even with damn near a yard of frozen sand in the bed, the level is still backwards slightly. It's become an issue scraping some properties, and like you I'm probably gonna change how it's set.


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

IF you're plowing gravel you should have the plow shoes on, especially if you only plow gravel and no pavement. That, with proper shoe spacing (height adjustment) will keep digging in to a minimum alone. 
Fisher (bottom trip) plows are designed for the New England weather- heavy wet snow while full trips were designed with more general snow conditions in mind. Full trips will trip over packed snow berms, thin layers of dense wet snow, etc while bottom trips will not, they tend to scoop it up. 

Some claim full trip scrape better- in some conditions they do because of the cutting edge angle (hense the x blade) but it depends on the exact real world conditions.


Adjust the frame to the middle (or top) hole to change the edge angle and add shoes. You do want the frame level, but if you're only plowing 2 driveways and they are both gravel the angle of the push beam is much less critical than the angle of the cutting edge.


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## NEH (Jan 19, 2008)

Personally I love the trip edge on the Fishers, I would not choose the full blade trip again for any type snow...

There's an excellent thread in this forum about plowing gravel drives, check it out. I'm dying to try out the pipe trick on the cuting edge mentioned there...


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## streetfrog (Dec 9, 2007)

I have used a Meyers full trip and Fisher edge trip. I will never go back to a full trip again. I didnt like stopping when the blade tripped. It is much better to just have the edge pop a second and continue.


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

streetfrog;495438 said:


> I have used a Meyers full trip and Fisher edge trip. I will never go back to a full trip again. I didnt like stopping when the blade tripped. It is much better to just have the edge pop a second and continue.


Alas! One of the many wonderful features offered for decades on a top name plow!


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## streetfrog (Dec 9, 2007)

LOL too true. I am and have ben a die hard Fisher man since my first one. That was my second plow. The first was a Meyers on my 79 bronco. Didn't like kissing the windshield Since then naught but Fisher for me


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