# Ultimate shop if you were going to build one...



## J&L (Jan 15, 2013)

As with most buildings and companies, we have come to out grow our shop that we built 12 years ago and are about to jump into the design phase of building a new one. My question for all of you is if you were to build a new facility/shop/garage/etc what would you want to include in it, be it equipment, building features, special tools, etc. The main functions for the shop would be snow removal equipment storage, auto/truck repair, lawn care/landscaping, welding/fabrication, 

Some of the items at the top of my list are:
more floor drains! (longer runs and a lot more of them)
taller/wider OH doors
(1)-4 post lift for larger trucks/equipment (20-30k lb. cap.)
(1)-2 post lift (10k lb)
In-floor heat--geothermal
Separate wash bay (divided block wall) w/ car wash wand
Air compressor in a separate utility room for the noise
ventilated weld/fab designated area
obviously a nice little office area
These are just a few off the top of my head....

What else would you guys add if the cost of it was negligible? There is definitely a budget involved, don't get me wrong, I just don't want to limit certain ideas based on the potentially absurd costs that may be associated with it...


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## brianbrich1 (Dec 3, 2010)

For me the lift in a bay , seperated and independently heated wash bay would be a must.


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## SNOMACHINE (Dec 2, 2009)

Well we have all that you listed above minus the 2 post lift. I dont think the 2 post lifts are very safe. Our wash bay doesn't have block wall but walls are lined with ribbed metal siding! Air compressor room is 12 X 12 which also houses filters, all fluids, parts inventory, bolt bins, grease, all stocked by local dealers. I don't have to worry if I don't have the main things in stock at all times. We have an overhead gantry crane in one whole bay with 2.5 ton all electric travel hoist. Our 4 post drive on lift is a rotary 30,000# with 2 rolling 15,000# jacks. The bay that has the gantry system also has a 30' x 4' pit that is used for overflow when the lift is tied up. Our floor heat is operated by a triangle tube instant boiler system 98% efficient off natural gas. I have a office above the compressor room. All air lines, torch lines, welding plug cord, electric cords, grease lines, engine oil lines, and water hose are all on retractable reels. Best thing I ever did! We buy oil and grease bulk.

Make sure you have plenty of good steel workbench area! We build our own and we hare a total of 58' of workbench with electric & air plugs every 8' on the front of the bench so you don't have to reach over the bench to plug things in!


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## SNOWLORD (Aug 10, 2007)

18-20ft sidewalls, wide and tall doors, overhead gantry crane if not in the budget at least a jib crane, separate wash bay, well ventilated welding area, several feet of steel benches around the perimeter with droors underneath them, lots of 220 and 110 plugs all the way around, about twice as many lights as you think you need, plumbed air all around, an iron worker in the welding area, heated floors, a large heavy steel table with at least a half inch top with a good large wilton vice on one or two of the corners. And alot of retractable reels for cord hoses and such.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

There's a budget...and you have Geo-thermal listed? I would drop that for a top shelf outside wood furnace...unless local code forbids it.

Other than that, I'd want a corner with a couch, table and kitchenette. A place for lunch, coffeee, and beer.


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## IPLOWSNO (Oct 11, 2008)

Yup a man cave office in the loft,

Infloor heat fed by a outdoor wood boiler,

Hot water in washbay


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## alldayrj (Feb 28, 2010)

Make it a drive through so you can pull through with a trailer on


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## 2_Djinn (Dec 20, 2004)

alldayrj;1595392 said:


> Make it a drive through so you can pull through with a trailer on


This was my first thought after reading the title of this thread!


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## ScubaSteve728 (Jan 17, 2012)

fork lift? plow storage racks/loft?


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## J&L (Jan 15, 2013)

This may change the in-floor heating responses, but we are looking at a heated portion of around 12,000 sq ft. The initial cost of geothermal will obviously be high, but they pay for themselves in what, 10-15 years, maybe 20 on the high end. If you can trench in your own loop, then you can really see the cost savings. I guess I just don't want to deal with the maintenance that comes with wood or corn furnaces and I really do not want to heat that size of an area with natural gas radiant heat or things along that line. We bought into the corn furnace phase about 7-8 years ago when corn was less than $3/ bushel, put great heat to about 4000sq ft pretty inexpensively for a few years...not really a feasible option when it's as high as it is today...and I really don't see it going down anytime soon. 

Loft idea for storage is also a good idea we are wanting to put in. We are looking at probably 18' ceilings and placing a mezzanine type level in one corner of the building for parts and inventory having about 6-7' of clearance, enough to get decent shelving, lighting, and head room up there. 

I really like the bulk material (oil, hyd fluid, atf, antifreeze, washer fluid) storage idea in stackable poly totes (100 gal/ea) with hoses and spickets all brought down to a uniform level. Saw this at a guys shop a few weeks ago and sure as heck beats handling everything in quarts and gallon jugs. I 'd love to have them on reels and pumps, but you gotta cut back some places


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## BlackIrish (Dec 22, 2007)

Make the dedicated wash bay function as a paint booth.
And everything else that's already been mentioned.


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## skimastr105 (Aug 18, 2009)

We are planning to do geothermal when we build in 3-5 years. Big savings by not buying fuel. And cutting wood costs a lot of time which rules out a Woodburner. A loft for parts and bulk fluids above the office is a great idea also.


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## Sawboy (Dec 18, 2005)

alldayrj;1595392 said:


> Make it a drive through so you can pull through with a trailer on


This!!!!!!!!


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

BlackIrish;1595526 said:


> Make the dedicated wash bay function as a paint booth.
> And everything else that's already been mentioned.


Excellent idea, but do you have any idea what the fire code is for paint booths?

Better to make it a paint booth later. If you get my drift.

Great ideas.

I want really tall walls and about a 20' wide door.

I would consider those infrared tube heaters to supplement the in floor heating. Melts snow and ice off trucks really fast and will dry the floor nicely as well.


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## shovelracer (Sep 3, 2004)

Waste oil furnace, drive through lift bays, "clean room" for sensitive parts rebuild, fully stocked lounge.


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## DodgeRam1985 (Nov 30, 2006)

Sounds like you have a really good path laid out so far and definitely would be an awesome shop. A cost saving tip though, we found that as opposed to putting the compressor in a completely seperate room (which does cut down on the noise considerably), we simply built a "box" around it, with a door on it. We framed the box with some scrap 2x8 stock, and then heavily insulated it. We did place a vent to the outside from the compressor box through the exterior wall in order to not cause any over heating issues or the like. We then "hard plumbed" air lines from steel pipe and just put inlets for a hose to be attached to it about every 10 feet. Thinking back on it, I wish I would have just done steel lines with reel hoses attached, but that was an over sight. Make sure you do lots of outlets, more than you would ever think you would need. I would suggest going with plug in style lights for overhead, simply because they are much more easily moved and adjusted if once you start putting your equipment in you find you have dark or poorly lit areas.

I understand your geothermal heat, I'm personally a big fan out outdoor furnaces just because you can run your radiant floor heat and forced air for the shop from the 1 furnace. I also farm though, so corn to me is "free" (in the sense I don't have to buy it, it just comes out of my farm income). I really wish there was a furnace though that could burn corn, pellets, and wood, so that I could choose the least costly at any given point to burn. But most of them are corn/pellet or wood only (unless someone knows of some that aren't, in which case I'd like to hear about it).


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## J&L (Jan 15, 2013)

I've been told the one we have is a "biomass" furnace and can burn corn or wood pellets. It is an A-maize-ing Heat Furnace. We never ran wood pellets through it, but others in our area have and said it worked great and it was a lot cleaner than running corn. We wanted to switch to wood once corn started to get outrageous, but all we could find was 50# bags, no bulk in our area under a 6 hour drive. We were going through about 500-550 bushel a winter when we used it, that was keeping it at 65-70F all the time, too.


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## Jim74 (Jul 8, 2012)

An address the wife can't find. Definately able to drive a trailer through.


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## scott3430 (Dec 28, 2010)

Don't know if it was said yet.......A bathroom. A small kitchen, nothing fancy, microwave and fridge, sink.


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## Buswell Forest (Jan 11, 2013)

A large outdoor furnace can take 36" logs, and they don't need to be split...if you can lift it and get it in there, it's fine..just buy a couple loads of wood (2 TT loads or 3 straight job loads) a year ahead so it's semi dry. Cut up a cord at a time as you go, not really a big time consuming thing....A cord comes quick @ 24" or more..
If you planned it out, you could have a building with the furnace inside, and a wood storage area off to the side...say 12' away, with a good sized set of barn doors. You cut the cord or two, and haul it inside with the tractor, dump it in a pile, don't even need to stack it. A guy I know has this set up, works awesome. The snow and ice melts right off so it's dry when he uses it.

(All one building, just to be clear..not two buildings!)


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## bigz64 (Oct 2, 2011)

i have experience with geothermal, on the utility side... if power is expensive where you live its a bad move. the way around it is solar panels to compensated for the power usage... then you just added another huge upfront cost to the install

reason is geothermal will only have a temp around 12-15 Celsius or 53-59 Fahrenheit so you need heat pumps to bring the temp up to room temp. around here for a house you will have about a $600 power bill and in a shop or commercial setting you may be anywhere between $5000-$15000 a month power bill

so with those numbers you will never make up the cost of the initial install.

but on the other side... geothermal is great for the summer, instead of an A/C unit. but that only works when you go from a geothermal system to a forced air system. my uncle has that and its so cold in his house in the summer i have to go outside to warm up hahaha


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

I see lots of good ideas brought up for inside the shop. Two things I thought I'd mention.
One being the air compressor. In a friends shop the air compressor was originally put inside of an insulated room with a vent to the outside to keep the room cool. The insulated room really cut down the noise but even with the outside air vent and fan it still got pretty hot in the room. He ended up moving the compressor to a different building and running an airline under the driveway. Now in the main shop there is no compressor to listen to and he gained a small storage room for his cleaning supplies and computer server. 

Second idea, what about a good sized lean to on one side of the shop? Something with some height and maybe pallet racking under it. Place to put skid steer attachments, salters, plows, etc In the off season your plows and salters don't need to be air conditioned but if their off the ground and under a roof they'd still be kept out of the elements. Also under the lean to you could keep trailers, extra trucks, etc. Be nice to be able to need a trailer in the middle of the winter and just hook up and go. No need to shovel off the deck, deal with what's covered in ice and froze up, trailer froze to the ground, etc. Or even hooking up in the rain, do it while being dry vs out in the rain being as quick as you can and still getting soaked. 


Inside the shop, figure on 2x the amount of lights, outlets, and air hook ups you think you'll need and there will be some days you wish there was more. Also build as big as you can, I've never met a person yet who has built a shop and after it was all done with everything moved in told me they wished it was a smaller building. Usually it seems they wish it was bigger after the first week of using it.


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## maelawncare (Mar 4, 2004)

DREAM List? 

Well hell.

-75'x100'
-Geo-thermal heat/air with a roof completely covered in solar panels. 
-at least 16' walls with steel construction
-spray foam insulation throughout
-at least 1 drive completely through garage doors
-and 4 total doors out front
-those plastic things covering one door so I can leave it open without heat/air escaping
-a wash bay inside with heated water and a pit or concrete angled to the outside for mud/snow and what not.
-a 20' lean two on one side
-pallet racks as big as lowes along the far wall
-lights, lights everywhere all led and outlets everywhere. including 220v
-big bright lights outside as well to light up the whole front
-big office with 1 separate office and a big employee break room with pool table, sectional couch, beer fridge, water tank, full kitchen and lockers. Then a showroom up front.
-bathroom with full shower
-gantry crane over the whole shop like trucks/extreme 4x4
-drains all over the place
-concrete pad out front
-welding area with vent hoods above it
-rolling metal work benches
-parts bins. just give something like fastnal has in stock, all of it, or the bolt isle at lowes.
-ceiling fans. sometimes you just want air blowing on you
-fenced in lot
-fenced locked up area inside the shop for chemicals and stuff I dont want employees messing with
-Hmmm, how about a zip line from one end to the other?

That should do it for now. I should be able to afford it in about 2,218 years.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

maelawncare;1597657 said:


> -Hmmm, how about a zip line from one end to the other?


You've been watching Fantasy Factory haven't you?


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## RJ lindblom (Sep 21, 2006)

I'd have two pull through bays, making one section the welding,fabrication and repair. The next bay would be wash bay. The drain would have a sump pit would work at sediment basin. Section after that would be heated storage. I'd also debate about splitting the shop into 2/3 heated 1/3 cold storage. I'd insulate the whole building with spray in foam. I wouldn't mess with skylights.

If I heated throughout the shop was the deal I'd put 3 or 4 different zones for temperature control. I'd consider geothermal, I could see it being decent if you could have the zones. I'd put radiant as an adjunct to the floor loops The storage area could be set to 50 degrees. Set the wash bay to 60. The welding fab area 65. Also have section for offices, break room, bathroom with 3/4 bath. Above the office area, have storage. You could store some of the off season hand equipment, parts, non bulky supplies. In the repair area I'd have a Gantry crane. If would avoid a 2 post vehicle lift. I might even skip the lift all together. 

I'd build either 60x80 or 80x100 with 16 foot walls and 8" concrete floors.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

dont know if its been mentioned, but drains in teh floor so when all the snow melts on the floor while you are working it has a place to go.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

J&L;1595165 said:


> As with most buildings and companies, we have come to out grow our shop that we built 12 years ago and are about to jump into the design phase of building a new one. My question for all of you is if you were to build a new facility/shop/garage/etc what would you want to include in it, be it equipment, building features, special tools, etc. The main functions for the shop would be snow removal equipment storage, auto/truck repair, lawn care/landscaping, welding/fabrication,
> 
> Some of the items at the top of my list are:
> more floor* drains! * (longer runs and a lot more of them)
> ...





brianbrich1;1595190 said:


> For me the lift in a bay , seperated and independently *heated wash bay* would be a must.





IPLOWSNO;1595367 said:


> Yup a man cave office in the loft,
> 
> Infloor heat fed by a outdoor wood boiler,
> 
> Hot water in *washbay*





maelawncare;1597657 said:


> DREAM List?
> 
> Well hell.
> 
> ...





RJ lindblom;1597962 said:


> I'd have two pull through bays, making one section the welding,fabrication and repair. The next bay would be *wash bay*. The drain would have a sump pit would work at sediment basin. Section after that would be heated storage. I'd also debate about splitting the shop into 2/3 heated 1/3 cold storage. I'd insulate the whole building with spray in foam. I wouldn't mess with skylights.
> 
> If I heated throughout the shop was the deal I'd put 3 or 4 different zones for temperature control. I'd consider geothermal, I could see it being decent if you could have the zones. I'd put radiant as an adjunct to the floor loops The storage area could be set to 50 degrees. Set the wash bay to 60. The welding fab area 65. Also have section for offices, break room, bathroom with 3/4 bath. Above the office area, have storage. You could store some of the off season hand equipment, parts, non bulky supplies. In the repair area I'd have a Gantry crane. If would avoid a 2 post vehicle lift. I might even skip the lift all together.
> 
> I'd build either 60x80 or 80x100 with 16 foot walls and 8" concrete floors.





birddseedd;1598081 said:


> dont know if its been mentioned, but drains in teh floor so when all the snow melts on the floor while you are working it has a place to go.


I think drain's have been mentioned directly and indirectly when talking about wash bay areas.

You don't want drains everywhere, that requires a sloped floor in order to make them work properly. Sloped floors suck when your trying to build/fix something and need a level surface.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

Mark13;1598086 said:


> I think drain's have been mentioned directly and indirectly when talking about wash bay areas.
> 
> You don't want drains everywhere, that requires a sloped floor in order to make them work properly. Sloped floors suck when your trying to build/fix something and need a level surface.


actually i was going mention this. my idea would be maybe a 4x4 area under each parking area. this would make it easy to have a slight slope in under the truck, but flat areas under the wheels and around the truck. any water not in teh drain could be easially swep under the truck and into the drain.

dont know if its a good idea. jsut an idea.


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## blowerman (Dec 24, 2007)

While we could all dream about the ultimate shop, some bigger companies have set ups that we have described. 
This isn't my dream shop, it is my shop.
5000 sq. ft. steel structure with heavy insulation
480 power into building
Full welding and fab set up.
wide access bay door for getting wheel loaders in.
Over head radiant head with back up commercial wood burner
sewer, water service inside building 
full bathroom facility
full pallet racking along wall for storage

Did I mention, my favorite shop is one I don't need to own.
For all our in house abilities that everyone wants to achive, sometimes outsourcing is cheaper.
Stick to snow removal, lawn care etc.
half mil to one million dollar buildings really dig into the bottom line.


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## RJ lindblom (Sep 21, 2006)

blowerman;1598098 said:


> While we could all dream about the ultimate shop, some bigger companies have set ups that we have described.
> This isn't my dream shop, it is my shop.
> 5000 sq. ft. steel structure with heavy insulation
> 480 power into building
> ...


That was my thought behind keeping the repair and welding/fabrication area all in one. If needed a mechanic can work in the shop or it gets loaded up and taken to the dealer or repair shop. If it is something I don't want to tackle, or lack the time. I almost toyed with the idea of a pit for oil changes. Honestly I don't think it would be the most practical solution.

If I was more budget minded I'd go 30x50. I'd have a 20 x30 of that for office, restroom and conference room. Above the office I'd either do storage or make into a simple apartment. I'd have two bays. One overhead door would be 10 foot wide and the second bay 12 feet wide. I am thinking I'd do a seperate hoop building for storage. I'd have the wash area on the pad out front.

I'd put 120 and 230 outlets every 10 feet along with air chucks. I'd heat with wood furnace with a backup propane radiant heat. I'd have the air compressor in a seperate shed and plumbed into shop.

Simple and workable is best IMO.


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## Glenn Lawn Care (Sep 28, 2009)

J&L;1595165 said:


> As with most buildings and companies, we have come to out grow our shop that we built 12 years ago and are about to jump into the design phase of building a new one. My question for all of you is if you were to build a new facility/shop/garage/etc what would you want to include in it, be it equipment, building features, special tools, etc. The main functions for the shop would be snow removal equipment storage, auto/truck repair, lawn care/landscaping, welding/fabrication,
> 
> Some of the items at the top of my list are:
> more floor drains! (longer runs and a lot more of them)
> ...


Can't forget about a bathroom!


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## herb1001 (Sep 15, 2010)

Anyone got pics of their dream shop they already built?


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

I don't I know if it's been said but a car lift they start for round 2 grand which isn't a whole lot considering


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## hatefulmechanic (Dec 27, 2012)

My shop (auto/truck repair, truck bed fabrication and installation, and collision repair) is 7500sqft, 21' ceilings, waste oil heat, heat pumps for air handling and AC in the summer, dedicated body/paint/wash bay. 480 600a service coming in, multiple above ground lifts, recessed drive on lift, and flat bays of around 3000sqft.

Previously mentioned was plenty of workbench space. I disagree. Have enough space to do your work, but that is it. More workbenches=more crap piled up on them. They quickly go from being a clean work area to a "catch-all", especially if you have employees.

If you are doing a steel building, do spray in insulation then add a liner panel. It makes it SO much brighter, easier to hang stuff off of, and washes easily.

In floor radiant is great, my area wood is cheap and plentiful so an outdoor wood furnace is the best choice.


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## RJ lindblom (Sep 21, 2006)

I like the idea of waste oil heat. Plus 1 on the benches. The shop my dad, brother and his son use is a gigantic cluster ####. I hate working in there for that reason.


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## hatefulmechanic (Dec 27, 2012)

RJ lindblom;1600136 said:


> I like the idea of waste oil heat. Plus 1 on the benches. The shop my dad, brother and his son use is a gigantic cluster ####. I hate working in there for that reason.


I generate 2000+gal a year of oil and still run out.

I do not suggest it unless you have sufficient supplies. Waste oil is going for $3/gal right now from buyers who purchase it for refining.


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

Floor drains would be a big plus too.

























































:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## TGS Inc. (Aug 17, 2010)

I wouldn't build a shop. Buy a deal and make it work! I bought this shop 4 years ago. We have gutted the office and made it exactly how we wanted it. Probably saved 70% on buying an existing building over starting from scratch. Shop is 11,000 square feet. I did this with my last building as well. No regrets. Also, we have a Clean Burn oil recycling unit in the shop portion. It is great!! No heating bills for the shop!

I will post some other pictures...Here are a few though.


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

ya know. here is an idea iv been wanting to use on my house even.

run LOTS AND LOTS of black pipe under ground 3 to 6 foot. probably 6. use a water pump to pump some anti freeze threw it. then run that into a heat exchanger and blow air through it. next to free air conditioning.

factories even use this method. more people should. ac units are dang expensive. easy to install by comparison, but if you are building the shop, make sure they run these pipes UNDER THE SHOP. your shop will be an insulator making it even more cool under the cement. that anti freeze will come out near ice cold.

this would be my number one thing to add. if you have to bare the heat all day working outside. you should at least have nice temp inside fixing stuff. and this method will be nearly free. air fan and water pump is all thats needed.

in fact. i would go with covering your roof with solar panels. will save hundreds a month on electricitiy.


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## SharpBlades (Sep 13, 2009)

most everyone has already hit all my ideas ie: floor drains, bathroom, radiant floor heat and lift.

The one idea I have is an employee bunk room... it probably wouldn't get used very often, but would be handy for employees that live a distance from the shop when we have a long marathon snow storm.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

SharpBlades;1600898 said:


> most everyone has already hit all my ideas ie: floor drains, bathroom, radiant floor heat and lift.
> 
> The one idea I have is an employee bunk room... it probably wouldn't get used very often, but would be handy for employees that live a distance from the shop when we have a long marathon snow storm.


A bunk room or even just a couple cots somewhere that could be setup in the office or somewhere relatively quiet and warm. I know there's been times where even being 15 minutes from home (in good weather) I'd rather have driven 2 minutes to the shop and hung out for 2-3 hours until I had to go back out then to drive home, nap for a bit, then try and make my way back. I mean I still could have gone to the shop but using a pallet of side walk salt as a chair or bed didn't seem to appealing.

Depending what your hours for the rest of the year are even during the summer months the spot to relax/sleep would be nice. Sometimes I wish farm shops had a small kitchen, shower, and a place to sleep. At times it would allow for an extra 1-3 hours of sleep a night when we are running really hard. I'm not saying I want to live in a shop, but staying there a night or two a week for a few weeks in the spring and fall if 18-20hrs a day are the norm trying to beat the weather could really help. I'd much rather get 5hrs of sleep at the shop after a quick shower and snack compared to 3hrs of sleep after driving home, cleaning up, eating, wake up, eat, drive back to work, etc.


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## MIDTOWNPC (Feb 17, 2007)

Mark13;1600928 said:


> A bunk room or even just a couple cots somewhere that could be setup in the office or somewhere relatively quiet and warm. I know there's been times where even being 15 minutes from home (in good weather) I'd rather have driven 2 minutes to the shop and hung out for 2-3 hours until I had to go back out then to drive home, nap for a bit, then try and make my way back. I mean I still could have gone to the shop but using a pallet of side walk salt as a chair or bed didn't seem to appealing.
> 
> Depending what your hours for the rest of the year are even during the summer months the spot to relax/sleep would be nice. Sometimes I wish farm shops had a small kitchen, shower, and a place to sleep. At times it would allow for an extra 1-3 hours of sleep a night when we are running really hard. I'm not saying I want to live in a shop, but staying there a night or two a week for a few weeks in the spring and fall if 18-20hrs a day are the norm trying to beat the weather could really help. I'd much rather get 5hrs of sleep at the shop after a quick shower and snack compared to 3hrs of sleep after driving home, cleaning up, eating, wake up, eat, drive back to work, etc.


that and I find if you have kids or pets at home depending on the time they wake up, want to see you ect and there goes your sleep. or you have some catching up to do with the mrs and well sometimes when its sleep you need a nap at the shop is best


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## J&L (Jan 15, 2013)

Just got a few estimates back from some local contractors....kept everything apples to apples between the different builders.
Only requested an enclosed shell (all windows, doors, and OH doors) and concrete floor. Went to 2 steel frame builders and 3 post frame for estimates... price for steel vs. post frame is on the low end 3 times more and higher end 4 times more. I figured steel may be more competitive simply based on the size and span I had drawn up. I guess I was wrong. I'd much more prefer to build a steel frame building due to the structural capacity the steel offers over that of a post frame structure. Our intentions are to build one and not have to again. Maybe this cost difference is local for the most part, I don't know. (80'wx180'Lx18'ceiling with 60'x 25' office/kitchen/bath area, 5 OH doors)


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## BlackIrish (Dec 22, 2007)

SharpBlades;1600898 said:


> most everyone has already hit all my ideas ie: floor drains, bathroom, radiant floor heat and lift.
> 
> The one idea I have is an employee bunk room... it probably wouldn't get used very often, but would be handy for employees that live a distance from the shop when we have a long marathon snow storm.


Good call.
I wish I`d been smart enough to rig one up last summer.
It would`ve been used alot this year.


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## BigLou80 (Feb 25, 2008)

J&L;1603503 said:


> Just got a few estimates back from some local contractors....kept everything apples to apples between the different builders.
> Only requested an enclosed shell (all windows, doors, and OH doors) and concrete floor. Went to 2 steel frame builders and 3 post frame for estimates... price for steel vs. post frame is on the low end 3 times more and higher end 4 times more. I figured steel may be more competitive simply based on the size and span I had drawn up. I guess I was wrong. I'd much more prefer to build a steel frame building due to the structural capacity the steel offers over that of a post frame structure. Our intentions are to build one and not have to again. Maybe this cost difference is local for the most part, I don't know. (80'wx180'Lx18'ceiling with 60'x 25' office/kitchen/bath area, 5 OH doors)


Im surprised, I can't touch some of the steel building prices around here.

A few guys have mentioned 480V power, I would just say make sure you have 3 phase even if it's only 208. Lot and lots of equipment like lifts, compressors, hoists GEOTHERMAL HEAT PUMPS ETC come in 3 phase for less money then their 220V counter parts and the cost less to run due to increased efficiency

Spray foam insulation is 110% worth the cost, the cheapest heat is the heat you don't have to make, Type of heat depends on how much heat you need. This might be an area where an engineer is worth the cost of admission.

I would say a pit is at least as useful is not more so then a lift, 30Klbs maxes out quick if you ever buy a tri axle or a Tractor Trailer especially if there is a loaded sander in the back. Same goes for heavy equipment . A smaller lift for pick ups though is totally worth it.

There are a lot of great ideas here, like plumbing air all the way around, a pull through wash bay and crew quarters. If you plan on owning it for a while a standing seam VS rib panel roof is well worth it, I have seen the rubber washers leak in less then 10 years

Good luck


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## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

If i was to build my dream shop it would have to have 1 -2 bays for truck repair 1 bay for washing,painting equipment. a seperate area for the heat and air handelers and tool room/part room . high enough ceilings to tip a dump body up, big doors maybe 14x14 . it should be big enough to encorperate all those bays plus a parking multipupose bay that can house maybe 10 tamdem trucks. all this with offices on the second floor with a lunch room and a few bathrooms upstairs and 2 down stairs.


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## fordpusher (Sep 14, 2008)

drive threw under cariage wash station, to get all the salt off


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## fordtruck661 (Feb 26, 2011)

hatefulmechanic;1600077 said:


> My shop (auto/truck repair, truck bed fabrication and installation, and collision repair) is 7500sqft, 21' ceilings, waste oil heat, heat pumps for air handling *and AC in the summer,* dedicated body/paint/wash bay. 480 600a service coming in, multiple above ground lifts, recessed drive on lift, and flat bays of around 3000sqft.


First person to mention this......It would be one of my top things needed noting worse that having to work on something and it 100* out


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

fordtruck661;1606833 said:


> First person to mention this......It would be one of my top things needed noting worse that having to work on something and it 100* out


Get a big enough building and from what I've seen you don't really need it. Farm shops that aren't air conditioned, but are insulated, have stayed cool and not humid throughout the summer. We also don't leave the doors open all day either.


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## Flawless440 (Dec 6, 2010)

I like the idea of two bulidings, one for equipment storage and one for "the shop"


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

Flawless440;1607185 said:


> I like the idea of two bulidings, one for equipment storage and one for "the shop"


One of the larger farmers in the area I grew up in had similar. He had I believe around 400' long, 50' wide. Of that he had basically two buildings in one. You could drive through the whole thing by opening interior doors, but he had a heated and cooled shop that was 100' x 50', the rest was never cooled, and heated to 35 degrees in the winter.


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## jvm81 (Jan 4, 2005)

Awesome ideas. I would like to see some pictures too! I have a 90x70 shop now. It's basically split in half. Side one is all heated, small mechanical room that house shop toilet, wash machine, in floor heater, water heater, water softener, shop sink, and cabinet that is locked that stores security and Internet systems. Then I have a small bathroom, shower, vanity, sink, toilet, roughly 10 x 10. Next to this is our office area. 10 x 20. Windows outside, two windows to look into shop. Desk, and a small L shape kitchen with sink, and cabinets which also serve as overflow for office supplies. This side has two 14 x 16 oh doors. Behind the mechanical room is our bench, tools, ect. Above the office/bath/mech room is a loft. Stairs going up and air compressor is under the steps. On top shelving, filters, extra tires, we do x mas lighting and all that is stored up there as well. 18ft walls. Floor drain done middle of building. In floor heat and really do I ever have water make it to the drain after melting snow. Shop kept at 55. I am all electric, great rates by me. A few windows to look out and have natural light. I have peferarted steel on the ceiling, reducing noise big time. The other side has a walk thru door. With 3 oh doors of the same size. I do have in floor heat on this side so well but for now it is cold storage. A few windows again as well. It's shop is in our other location so I am not there much. I am looking at building a new shop here by me which I priced. 100 x 120 x 22 Steel building, cement, drains, in floor heat geo unit. 3 20 ft doors. I was price around 250k. That's nothing inside yet. Wash bay unit is a must but I seen shops here that pull out a big curtain on a track system and they love it. End of day wide open space. Cheaper than building an entire wall and a separate stall. Thing is my banks says how to justify a shop. It really doesn't cash flow itself. 

Shelving is crucial. I think different zones for heat even if shop is wide open. If you can drive thru for wash bay but not a game changer. Lift, hoist, enough power. AC I am not sure. My shop may get a little warm but it is usually pretty cool I there during the summer. Keeps doors closed, well insulated you should be ok. Shop one is a wood building. For me cost comparison bt wood vs steel starts at 80 x 100. From that size forward steal building per sq ft is cheaper. 

Sometime you don't need to outfit everything at once. Just have a plan. Lay it out how you want and make it work. That type of money, one time deal. Enjoy planning and spending and using the new soon to be shop.


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## 04hd (Jan 3, 2013)

beanz27;1606977 said:


> Get a big enough building and from what I've seen you don't really need it. Farm shops that aren't air conditioned, but are insulated, have stayed cool and not humid throughout the summer. We also don't leave the doors open all day either.


My shop is very over insulated. Last summer which was a hot and sticky one the hottest it got was 80* granted I would open the door and windows at night when it cooled off a bit. I also would pull anything I was going to work on in at night. I do some what the same in winter to let it warm up. I have forced air furnace for heat. I'm currently selling waste oil at $1.25 a gallon. (When your changing oil at 5gallons at a time it adds up fast.) Floor drains are something I shouldve had. Ive got a 48x70 with 18 foot ceiling Combine just fits with the bin extenders up. Power outlets are a must same with ceiling fans I have 2 that are 3 speeds. Really nice to move air around.


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## OC&D (Dec 2, 2009)

Not one person mentioned a stripper pole for the company holiday party!?!?


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## yardguy28 (Jan 23, 2012)

my ideal shop is one large enough for my truck and trailer attached to fit. maybe a separate room with a floor drain to wash equipment. an office with a place to shower and sleep. mostly to sleep in the winter so hearing would be a must. I could do without ac for the summer months.


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## Ramairfreak98ss (Aug 17, 2005)

alldayrj;1595392 said:


> Make it a drive through so you can pull through with a trailer on


Every couple years, it needs to be bigger and too big isn't ever a factor, money always is!

Driving through with truck and trailer is one of the biggest pluses of a big building.

I wanted a 100-125' wide building until i saw the costs for metal or clearspan etc. I think a 70-80' wide building 100-200' long would be great. 16x16' doors on both ends, some side doors maybe for cars or little equipment. Areas above framed out for offices. Enough room to drive through with an F550 and enclosed or equipment trailer and around another vehicle if parked in there to one side. 4 post lift and 2 post lift, 7.5-10hp 220v air compressor, hvac, radiant gas ceiling heaters, a sectioned off wash bay like someone else said for anyone doing snow of course... Enough room to park trailers and trucks/equipment on both sides and still have plenty of room to walk/drive through the middle.


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## yardguy28 (Jan 23, 2012)

I was thinking the wash bay for mowers mostly. I never wash my truck in the winter or snow removal equipment. 

in all honesty I never wash any of my equipment ever so the wash bay really isn't needed.


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