# 81chevy rebuild project



## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well i bought a new chevy c30 pickup with dump bed for a salt truck next year and well be fitting it out this summer and fixing it up. i will start this thread with some pics the day after getting it so you no what were starting with.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is a pic of the hoist for the bed


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

next pic of the bed itself it was rhino lined but you can see where it is peeling


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

picture of the cab


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is the driver side floor rot


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

last pic for now is the sander


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

i will post pics as the projects come along some of my pland of things to rebuild and madify will be:
1.rerepair floor rot on driverside
2.repair leaking motor on sander
3.repair leeking radiater/hose
4.repair rearend of dumb bed were roted out 
5. reseal around worn bed liner
6. build a trailer hitch/electric brakes
7.install cb radio
8.install airbags 
9.remove passengerside tank and install underbody toolbox
10.possably pickup a used straight blade and install it


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## Robhollar (Dec 27, 2003)

You lucky dog you, Ive been looking for a truck just like that for my tree biz, Good luck with it...Rob


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## Swampdonkey (Dec 13, 2004)

That's a good looking truck not alot of rot for its age. I will be watching this thread!! :redbounce Good Luck


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

I will be watching too.... as it is so similar to my own project truck. If I can help, just ask.


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## William B. (Jul 22, 2004)

Looks good. Can't wait to see the progress.

Derek, any pics of The Bomb Part II

William


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## 2004Z71CC (Dec 19, 2004)

Looking forward to the pics as the project moves along. Great pics so far.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

ctfan said:


> Looks good. Can't wait to see the progress.
> 
> Derek, any pics of The Bomb Part II
> 
> William


Soon, my friend, soon. I haven't had a chance to touch it yet. Today I went out and bought an old International-Harvestor tractor w/loader to fix up for this whole deal too... I'll probably work on it for the next week or two and then get on the Bomb Part II....


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## Chevytruck85 (Nov 22, 2004)

awsome project! I just got done rebuliding and 85 k-10.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

i have started on the trailer hitch first pic is the rear now


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

layout of lights reciever and d rings on a piece of 3/8 steel cut 12"x36"


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

welded tube and rings to plate


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

rear side of tube welded it took 4 passes a filler root and two final passes


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

cut hole and installed 6 pin connector


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

today i cut the two 41/2" holes for the rear brake lights


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

welded cans in were the factory screw holes were located


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

mounted steel gaurds for reverse lights


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

back sides of brake lights with a 3/16" gap from holes saw


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

filled gap with body filler to prevent road grime from setting in the gap and rusting


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

coat of galvzinc on the rear to prevent rusting


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

front side of lights with a coat of body filler


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

galvzinc on front side


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

first layer of black paint i do no i will be grinding alot of this paint and burning some to when i welded it to the truck but i like to put a first coat on in the shop to help fill all the holes and then i will tuch up were ever welded and a final full coat when done


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## Bad Luck (Sep 30, 2004)

Quality.  

Looking good man. Good luck with the project. I'm looking for a similar dumper for salting/clean out duty.


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## vipereng2 (Mar 19, 2005)

karl klein said:


> first layer of black paint i do no i will be grinding alot of this paint and burning some to when i welded it to the truck but i like to put a first coat on in the shop to help fill all the holes and then i will tuch up were ever welded and a final full coat when done


sweet


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

today i got the sander offt the truck and installed the hitch 
here is the sander


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is a pick of the rear end


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is my last pic for now the hitch is installed and i put a coat of paint on it. so tommorow i am going to try and install the lights and get them wired and decide what i will need to fix the bed rot below the tailgate.


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## vipereng2 (Mar 19, 2005)

karl klein said:


> here is my last pic for now the hitch is installed and i put a coat of paint on it. so tommorow i am going to try and install the lights and get them wired and decide what i will need to fix the bed rot below the tailgate.


sweet you are doing a great job. by the way you did the workit shows you know what your doing
i hope you sanded down the back before you but it on .


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

finally done with the hitch lights are wired 6 pin trailer connector is wired


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is a pic of the cb and brake controller installed i had to fix alot of mickey mouse wiring in the cab today so all though i was off of work all day still does not look like i got a lot done


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well its been a while since a update so here goes. last week i rewired the engine compartment because of a previous engine fire from the old owner they did a bad job at fixing it. i also ran and hooked up all the trailer brake wires. this weekend i replaced the radiator and went to the larger one that comes with the a/c trucks so in doing that i had to go get new mounting hardware from the salvage yard to make it fit it looks good now i also had to install new ends on the tranny lines because they were seized to the old radiator.i also replaced the hoses. 

still to do:
1 pipe hydro lines
2 fix tailgate rot 
3 fix floor rot
4 put spreader together
5 decal truck


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well the sander is all broke down i have already had new seals put in the auger motor.
now i will get it sand blasted and powder coated.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

next i have decided to start on the rear end rot i am going to bend up some 10ga sheet metal to cover the hole rear pan and i will weld it on just covering it is probably not right but i think it will work fine this next weekend i am also going to replace the valve covers and gaskets the current ones are leaking and the edelbrock chrome covers are only 45 bucks so sense i think the problem with the old covers is related to the very small flange thickness i will just replace them. i had this same problem on my 76' 400. i am also going to replace the oil pan gasket i think the gasket was melted pretty good during the fire and the passenger side of it is leaking pretty good.
pics of the rot.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

2nd pic of rear end


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

i do have a question about the gas tanks. let me explain the hole story here goes. i currently have dual tanks but the previous owner said only use the driver side so i assume the passanger tank is rusted and plugging up (he replaced the drivers tank) that is fine i would like to remove the passenger tank and put a tool box any way. i have noticed that only one line is hooked to the current gas tank and two with nothing on them. the engine was replaced in 98 with a create engine from goodwrench. i dont know if before it was fuel injection? or what but i thought ther was supposed to be a gas line return line and a vent? were is the return? or is there no return?if it is ok with only one can i just cap the other two? any ideas? and since i am removing the other tank should i remove the transfer switch. thanks for the help


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

I think return lines started in '82--mine has it. A '75 that I worked on didn't... it was just straight pressure only like the older cars had. As for fuel injection, not until '87.

A proper single tank conversion would entail removing the switch and valve and redoing the lines, but probably disconnecting the switch and capping the unused lines would be sufficient.

Have you considered adding a big single tank in the rear like I did? 130L from a '91 Jimmy fits nicely where the spare tire is supposed to hang...  Sure beats the 70L saddle tanks and gets it away from the "big fire hazard area"


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

so one line is ok. do you have a idea on why there was three before. i cant put a tank in the rear thats wear my hydro tank is thanks for the ieda thow.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Three lines.... one from each tank and one to the fuel pump... or am I missing something?


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

no i am sorry i mean my sending unit has three steel lines off of it but only one is in use and the other to are just open no hoses?


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Oh sorry, I thought you meant the valve!

My sending unit has one for feed, one for return, and I believe the last one is a vent. Maybe your sender is for a newer truck? Probably your truck has (had?) a carbon canister up front, it may have had a line going to that. For simplicity, I would plug the return line if its not in use but you need a vent. Often they are just a short piece of hose, usually leading upwards a bit, with one of those plastic ends like a rear axle uses for a vent (the little nipple with a cap). I've also seen the end of the hose stuffed with a little chunk of sponge. Anything that can flow air but not allow dirt/salt in would work in a pinch.

Ideally, find a service manual with emmission hose diagrams... they'll probably show more about the carbon canister setup.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

thanks that's what i suspected but wanted it cleared up i will get some short hoses and plug one and a vent on the other. if i bypass the switching valve when i take the other tank out should i just use flex hose with clamps or do you thing steel lines with brass compression unions would work better?


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## tuna (Nov 2, 2002)

Why would somebody Rhino line a dump body?You want your material to slide out,thats just dumb.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

the rhino liner works great. it helps stop the rust and protect the bed the material slides just fine, it is a smooth surface. i think it also helps when dumping rocks the line absorbs a lot of the impacted.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

You can have those liners sprayed with or without the texture. I have two dump bodies lined and materials slides better then a rusted bed will allow.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

karl klein said:


> thanks that's what i suspected but wanted it cleared up i will get some short hoses and plug one and a vent on the other. if i bypass the switching valve when i take the other tank out should i just use flex hose with clamps or do you thing steel lines with brass compression unions would work better?


While flex hose will probably do fine, here in Ontario I think for safety inspections we can't have more than 12" total hose length in the whole fuel system....

Just something to keep in mind...


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

thanks Derek your help has been great i still need to crawl under it and take the switching valve out and pipe around it. i did plug the sending unit and put a vent on the middle pipe. i also noticed that the other tank that i am taking out has a return line hooked up to it so i don't no what that is all about i will try to figure it out tomorrow. today i got side tracked repairing the ac on my 97 suburban.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

today after fixing the a/c on my suburban i decided to get something done on the dump truck so i fixed the tailgate release lever
first pic broke


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

2nd pic i rewelded the end on it


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

handle in the locked position


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well were do i start, i went to go pick up my sander from the blaster today and the truck died. it started stuttering and then about a block and a half later it quit. i think it is fuel because when i tried to restart it it would stutter and then nothing. just like when my fuel pump went out in my 97 suburban. but it has a mechanical fuel pump, i didn't think they had this problem? so i bought a new fuel filter thinking maybe it is clogged i also got plugs, wires, cap, and rotor so i hope one of these will fix it. any other ideas? i haven't put any of them on yet i just had it towed home. and the towing company didn't understand when i said one ton dump truck they sent a flat bed and he could hardly lift it he said he could feel the front end floating.


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## Chevytruck85 (Nov 22, 2004)

Had the same thing happen to my 86 chevy, ended up being the fuel pump.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

how do you change the mechanical fuel pumps ? do you just un bolt it how is it driven from the engine?


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

Its driven by a follower or arm that rides on an ecentric of the cam or crank (crank in your case) on the motor. Its causes the pump to pulse.

Just unbolt it. Be sure to use a new gasket though or you will have an oil leak down the road.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well i went to start trouble shooting today and it startedup fine. i don't know what to think now?


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

i did go ahead and replace the fuel filters a external claer filter and the one in the carb the external one wasn't clear before but it is now i also noticed the fuel pump does have three lines two of them go down the frame rail towards the tanks and the other goes up to the engine. now if i only have one hooked up to the new tank what is going on with the other line does it dump in to the tank i am not using? well i am confused what happened and why the previos owner even unhooked the other two lines from the new tank i guess i will probably have to repipe the hole gas line to fix it right does any one know how to tell wich of the two lines is feed and witch is return? i also changed the valve covers today sence the old ones were leaking. and polished the rims/hub caps


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

2nd pick is covers with the gaskets glued on i used a spray on tack and loved it alot better than the yellow snot i usually use


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

last pick of covers they only cost 40.00 and i didn't get them for the looks the old ones were leeking and these have a little thicker flange around them


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is a pick of my chrome caps on the wheels


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

and the otherside that i already polished


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## Chevytruck85 (Nov 22, 2004)

The fuel pump is an easy change probaly cost no more than 15 bucks. just make sure that when the new one goes in the push rod that runs the fuel pump goes on top of the arm coming off of the fuel pump, and just bolt the new one on.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well since it has been raining out all day i was unable to drop the passenger side fuel tank like hoped and re pipe the gas lines so instead i painted the sander i got back from the sandblaster on Friday. the color is kubota orange


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well today i got the tank down but the neighbors are having a open house so i quit early.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

a little friend of mine


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

the tank is out. i am going to save to of the brackets to mount the box on i am getting


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

i sprayed some galvinizing compound on it untill i have time to get the gun out and paint it


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

update:
its been a while sense i posted some pics so here goes .
this is a pic of the under body box installed


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

i welded a side brace on to the box because the old tank supports were a little flimsy sense they ended 8"short of the front. on the side brace i welded a tube to hold my receiver because i have to take it out when raising the bed with sander on.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

final pic with hitch removed. 
sense last posting i have re piped all fuel lines and replaced rear brake line sense i busted it when removing tank i also installed the new fuel pump and replaced the oil pan gasket. i havent put the starter back in yet so i don't no if it works but i hope it does. i also picked up new pads and rotors for the front rotors to put on in the next couple weeks


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## PremierLand (Jun 11, 2004)

Thats an awesome truck. LOOKS nice as heck. I wish I had a dumper!!! Ah, well back to work I go, so I can save for one!!!


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

today i painted the dump bed i used a black tractor paint and added some hardner.
first pic side before painting


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

2nd pic is the rear i am just painting the cab gaurd and sides for now the guys at rhino liner are going to touch up the spots that are pealing


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

sid of bed after painted its not the best job bu its only a work truck and looks alot better than before i really should have sanded the old paint down but o well


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

last pic for now the inside of the bed 
update: i have replaced the front rotors and brake pads and flushed all of the brake fluid and now the brakes work great


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## PremierLand (Jun 11, 2004)

thats freakin sharp... wanna sell it?


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

hell, i can't afford to sell it now it has to make me some money first


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## PremierLand (Jun 11, 2004)

lol right on. but that does look sharp!


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Coming nicely Karl. Well done. But only a few more months of sun left!! 

I'd be being more useful myself, but for the past few days I've been taking it easy--went boating with some friends on Saturday for a few hours and turned myself a nice deep purple color! 

Remember your sunscreen while out, be it working or playing folks! Dumb move on my part, no excuses. I'll tell you, Sunday/Monday I was willing to give ANYTHING to make the pain go away, it was that bad. Now everything is turning to gigantic blisters instead.

Thats my advice for the day!! 

Once this is past, I will be jumping headlong into the Bomb Part II, as so far most of my decent weather has been taken up working on the tractor etc. Priority repairs include axle leak, driveshaft hanger bearing, tires, one broken shock mount, and one rotten overloader bracket.... then its time to fabricate the mount for the plow!


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well i put the sander together today. here are some pics
first pic main frame installed


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

2nd ic of auger idler bearing and hydro motor installed


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

3rd pic side view with spinner installed i still need to paint it when i run my next bach of black paint you can see how low it will get to the ground with the bed up


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

last pic for now is rear view i am going to mount the hydraulic couplers tommorow hopefully


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## PremierLand (Jun 11, 2004)

dang, that does not look like an 81 anymore.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well its time for a update. i replaced the steering box with one from the scrap yard sense mine was leaking pretty good. i also installed a new hydro boost and master brake cylinder i was going to put a new power steering pump in but the new one i got had a bad bearing with 1/4' of play so i took it back and wont get the new one until Thursday.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

this last weekend i also installed two more strobes sense the one originally on it cant be seen from the rear.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

ok i aslo have finally made the bracket for my sander couplers. i still need to hoo the hoses up but they need to be replaced. so i will need to get the power steering pump put back in first so i can raise the bed


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

last pic for now


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

well i had a problem with the hydro couplers. i thought i had enough clearance but i was wrong. so i welded a new bracket on that lowered the couplers below the sander when the bed is tilted. i have all the hoses installed but need to adapters for the truck side.


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is a closeup pic with my back up alarm also installed


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

here is the last pic for today it shows my to lights mounted on the side one faces out so you can see how far you are throwing the salt and the other out back. there is also one on the passenger side facing rear.


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## bigplow23 (Sep 3, 2005)

*looking good*

hi there new to this site wanted to say that is a really nice job you are doing there. I have a under the tailgate spreader on a 99 dodge dump, i wanted to give you a sugestion if you haven't allready thought of it but i replace my hydraulic couplers with stainless steel ones. cost enough but i have not had to replace them in 4 years this is the going on the the 5th year with them and they work great keep up the good work


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## karl klein (Jan 28, 2001)

bigplow23:
thanks for the comments i didn't realize they made SS couplers i will probably leave these on for now sense i already bought them but i will keep that in mind, do you have any pics of your set up


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## bigplow23 (Sep 3, 2005)

Karl Klein

your welcome on the info, i agree with you on using the ones you already bought. When you go to replace them and you want SS couplers and can't find anybody that sells them let me know i keep them in stock they are made by Parker corp. i also own a small welding company and we sell and repair snow plows plus i keep them in stock because they are something i use in my fleet. As far as a pic of my setup i will get one on here soon i will be starting on this truck in the next week or so to get it ready for the snow.


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## Johnny o (Jan 30, 2006)

Cool Truck
I just got a 1978 C30 with 454. Have dana 70 rear end problem. But hope to fix this weekend. Good luck on your project.
Johnny O


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