# Tire air pressure question?



## NYH1

Not really a repair question...

My truck in my sig below, has Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac tires, size 285/70-17. They're load range D (3200 lbs.), 65 psi max. The tread was 18/32" deep when they were new about a year ago. They have a little over 7000 miles on them now and they've worn down nice and evenly to about 16/32". That was with Dodge's factory recommended 36 psi air pressure. 

Now that I have my Fisher SD 7.5' plow, probably close to 550 lbs. (plow & mount) and 480 lbs. ballast weight against the tail gate. What should I run my tire pressure at with the plow on and ballast weight in the back?

Thanks, NYH1.


----------



## SnoFarmer

"They're load range D (3200 lbs.), 65 psi max."

Your going to want to run them at the max psi that is stated on the sidewall.


----------



## Whiffyspark

Is this a 1500?


----------



## SnoFarmer

That's what he said.
and his sig states
"
2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab SLT 4x4, Hemi, auto tranny, 3:92 LSD, 285/70-17 Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac w/Fisher SD 7.5 ft. Plow"



Whiffyspark;1720780 said:


> Is this a 1500?


----------



## NYH1

Yes, my truck is a 1500 (1/2 ton). The door sticker says to inflate my tires to 36 psi. when cold. Running them at 36/38 psi. has given me a nice even wear pattern across the tire, down to 16/32" from the original 18/32" tread depth in the first 7000 plus miles I've put on them in the year I've had them.

I kind of figured that since I'm putting a little over 1000 lbs. of weight in and on my truck I might be better off increasing the air pressure in the tires. Is there any way to tell what I should raise my tire pressure to when I have my plow on and the ballast weight in?

Thanks, NYH1.


----------



## johnhenry1933

Rather than going by the door info, I would go by the tire info (tires could have been swapped/upgraded).

With that much weight on a little 1/2 ton, and working on top of it, I would max out...at 65 psi.

Off topic, if you had a heavier truck, even just a 3/4 ton, you may have more latitude (my light truck ties hold 80 psi).


----------



## Whiffyspark

I'd put 50 in them. No reason to max them out. It'll do nothing but ride like sh t 

Your door sticker says 36 because you're supposed to have prated tires on it. D's are lt tires.


----------



## johnhenry1933

I'd be less concerned about "ride" than a blowout and traction. This a work truck, not a pleasure cruise.

And BTW, the 930 lbs. estimated (550 + 480) does not account for passenger(s), fuel, tools, salt, etc., which could quickly add another 500+.

You may not need to max out, but I think you need to be close to it.


----------



## Whiffyspark

johnhenry1933;1721156 said:


> I'd be less concerned about "ride" than a blowout and traction. This a work truck, not a pleasure cruise.
> 
> And BTW, the 930 lbs. estimated (550 + 480) does not account for passenger(s), fuel, tools, salt, etc., which could quickly add another 500+.
> 
> You may not need to max out, but I think you need to be close to it.


It's a half ton truck its not going to matter. He doesnt have nearly enough weight for it to matter

He puts max psi in them there's not enough weight on that truck to give him any traction. I Dont even run max psi in my 3/4 with a plow, d range tires.

Most half tons come with p rated tires hence the 36psi in door. D range is generally for 3/4 tons or 1 tons that Dont tow


----------



## SnoFarmer

You could always weight your front then your rear axles when loaded to see how heavy you are.

With load range "D" tires they have a softer sidewall than "e". You want to have a hard enough tire so when you hit or go over curbs, hit pot holes etc etc it does not damage the tire or rim when plowing.
We run a set of "d" tires on one 3/4 ton plow rig. they have like a 3300lb(guesstamant) load capacity we run them at max psi, we have been for 4years and the tires are doing great.

Experience says to run them at max psi.
as the mfg doesn't know what size tire your running or what load your carrying, front or rear.


----------



## stone74

NYH1;1721135 said:


> Yes, my truck is a 1500 (1/2 ton). The door sticker says to inflate my tires to 36 psi. when cold. Running them at 36/38 psi. has given me a nice even wear pattern across the tire, down to 16/32" from the original 18/32" tread depth in the first 7000 plus miles I've put on them in the year I've had them.
> 
> I kind of figured that since I'm putting a little over 1000 lbs. of weight in and on my truck I might be better off increasing the air pressure in the tires. Is there any way to tell what I should raise my tire pressure to when I have my plow on and the ballast weight in?
> 
> Thanks, NYH1.[/QUOTE
> 
> I run 50lbs in mine also a Ram 1500, plow plus ballast close to 900lbs. No braking issues, great traction etc...
> Any harder and you will begin to lose traction.
> Good luck


----------



## 32vld

I bring some age to this question of how much PSI.

Back in the 60's and 70's a lot of people that can not think for themselves would put in the PSI that was on the door jamb sticker about 26-28 lbs or the maximum PSI that was on the tire sidewalls 32 lbs.

As radials were used more and more in the mid 1970's and 1980's along with looking to get better tire tread life wear and gas mileage people were ignoring the door jamb sticker and going with the 35 lb on the side wall.

From the 1990's on car and light trucks had maximum side wall PSI of 44 lbs for many tires. Though door jamb PSI had not changed much through the years.

What I have found today is the door jamb info will still give the lowest MPG and tread life. Though where in the past running a tire at the maximum PSI rating on the sidewall had no adverse impact is no longer so today Running at today's higher side wall PSI can adversely effect the tire tread wear.

I have seen this on autos and light trucks. My Suburban/1500 has tires that have a maximum PSI rating of 44 PSI.

My Suburban rides empty most of the time. When I tired running the tires at 44 lbs the tires were wearing out in the center of the tread faster then on the ends of the thread. Running the tires at the factories recommended psi caused the opposite uneven wear of the thread.

Being you have added a lot of weight I would split the difference between the 36 and the 65 and try 50 lbs. Treadwear is a good indication of good tire pressure.

I figured that if you payload is 2,000 lbs and you are carrying half of your maximum payload makes sense to increase your PSI half way between where you are at 36 lb and the maximum of 65. Difference is 29 lb. Half of the diff is 14.5 lb. 36 + 14 = 50 lb.


----------



## SnoFarmer

lol,
How young do you think we are?
I'm in my 50's.



32vld;1721249 said:


> I bring some age to this question of how much PSI.




Even today with stock tires and using tires recommended by the MFG it's best to fallow the recommendations on the sticker in the door jam.


32vld;1721249 said:


> Back in the 60's and 70's a lot of people that can not think for themselves would put in the PSI that was on the door jamb sticker about 26-28 lbs or the maximum PSI that was on the tire sidewalls 32 lbs.


Really? Even if 65-70psi was recommended for carrying a load on a 3/4 or 1ton?
I'm not buying it...
Some over inflated their tires in a vain attempt to get better millage during the oil embargo.



32vld;1721249 said:


> As radials were used more and more in the mid 1970's and 1980's along with looking to get better tire tread life wear and gas mileage people were ignoring the door jamb sticker and going with the 35 lb on the side wall.


Even when they used load range "e" tires?
Because a tire isn't going to carry a heavy load for very long at that low psi with out heating up and failing.

cars and trucks, 1/2 to 1 tones all had different psi recommendation even way, way back in the stone age.
Some had "p" "D" or "e" even back then.



32vld;1721249 said:


> From the 1990's on car and light trucks had maximum side wall PSI of 44 lbs for many tires. Though door jamb PSI had not changed much through the years.


He needs to mach his load to the psi that will allow the tire to perform with the weight he is carrying.

On the tire it has the max load in pounds at a stated psi.

If it's not the stock tire, size wise or weight ratting. the sticker goes out the window.


32vld;1721249 said:


> What I have found today is the door jamb info will still give the lowest MPG and tread life. Though where in the past running a tire at the maximum PSI rating on the sidewall had no adverse impact is no longer so today Running at today's higher side wall PSI can adversely effect the tire tread wear.


I'm sure your "P" rated tires do have such a low weight ratting and psi requirements.
Sounds right.


32vld;1721249 said:


> I have seen this on autos and light trucks. My Suburban/1500 has tires that have a maximum PSI rating of 44 PSI.


my "d" rated tires are wearing very uniformly and they offer great traction at the max psi.
Plow trucks are sometimes much heaver than we think they are. Snow, ice ,our gear, salt, sand, plows all add up quickly.

In this case under inflation will wear then out quickly and it could subject the tire and wheel to damage.

I wouldn't be worried about over inflation then loaded up to go plowing.
This is age and experience talking...


----------



## jasonv

Hey SnoFarmer;

From the op "They're load range D (3200 lbs.), 65 psi max."
That's 3200 pounds PER TIRE. So putting those tires to 65 PSI would match up to a total front end weight of 6400 pounds, which is more than the weight of his ENTIRE TRUCK, including the plow, driver, fuel, and whatever crap he has in the back.

There are charts indicating what the proper inflation pressure is, based on the tire size and the load.

http://cache.toyotires.com/sites/default/files/imce/LoadInflation_Table_P-LT_102913.pdf

His tires are 285/70R17, so page 22 (A12) near the bottom, if his front end WITH THE PLOW, weighs less than 4210 pounds, he can stick to the door pressure (36 psi).

Also note that the bigger tires (285 vs a more normal 245 width) will support more weight at the same pressure. So though his 285's can take 2105 pounds each at 35 psi, a 245 might only take 1500 pounds at the same pressure -- the difference is over 500 pounds per tire, or enough to support the weight of a rather HEAVY plow, so because of just the tires by themselves, he may not need to go above the door sticker. Note though, that I don't know what his factory tire size actually is, so he will have to look up the loads in the charts himself, or better yet, weigh it, in fact weight the two axles individually.


----------



## johnhenry1933

jasonv;1721431 said:


> so because of just the tires by themselves, he may not need to go above the door sticker.


Not to continue this discussion ad nauseum:

He has already stated the door sticker (Dodge) recommends 36 psi. With that load at that low a psi I would think he bursts his sidewalls in no time.

Real world physics dictate the fuller (within range) the better. And as SnoFarmer stated, what about potholes and curbs with that minimally inflated tire?

I guess at the end of the day the op should start at 60...or at 40, and try driving and plowing incrementally until he finds his happy medium (proper inflation given the load and traction).

But I've never worn out the sidewall, or bent a rim with a tire inflated to 80, 90 or 95% of max psi.


----------



## jasonv

johnhenry1933;1721435 said:


> Not to continue this discussion ad nauseum:
> 
> He has already stated the door sticker (Dodge) recommends 36 psi. With that load at that low a psi I would think he bursts his sidewalls in no time.
> 
> Real world physics dictate the fuller (within range) the better. And as SnoFarmer stated, what about potholes and curbs with that minimally inflated tire?
> 
> I guess at the end of the day the op should start at 60...or at 40, and try driving and plowing incrementally until he finds his happy medium (proper inflation given the load and traction).
> 
> But I've never worn out the sidewall, or bent a rim with a tire inflated to 80, 90 or 95% of max psi.


Reading helps, I suggest you actually try it rather than picking apart a small portion of a statement while ignoring all of the very very necessary CONTEXT.


----------



## Whiffyspark

johnhenry1933;1721435 said:


> Not to continue this discussion ad nauseum:
> 
> He has already stated the door sticker (Dodge) recommends 36 psi. With that load at that low a psi I would think he bursts his sidewalls in no time.
> 
> Real world physics dictate the fuller (within range) the better. And as SnoFarmer stated, what about potholes and curbs with that minimally inflated tire?
> 
> I guess at the end of the day the op should start at 60...or at 40, and try driving and plowing incrementally until he finds his happy medium (proper inflation given the load and traction).
> 
> But I've never worn out the sidewall, or bent a rim with a tire inflated to 80, 90 or 95% of max psi.


No he won't lol.

1000 lbs is nothing. Thats probably not even over payload.

36 is for P rated tires. His tires are not OEM. D tires are 8 ply


----------



## Whiffyspark

Double post


----------



## NYH1

My truck came with 275/60-20 wheels and tires. The first thing I did was buy a set of factory 17" wheels (actually have two pairs now) and tires. I changed then as soon as I could. The 20" tires sucked. 

I ran 40 psi. in my current tires for a few weeks last fall and really liked the way it handled over 36 psi. in them. When I was having my tires rotated (free rotation) I asked the guy about running them at 40 psi. instead of 36 psi. He said if I ran more pressure in them then I needed I could wear out the center of the tire faster then the outside edges, as mentioned. He said to put more air pressure in them when I had a load in the truck or when towing. 

So now I'm trying to figure out how much air pressure to put in them when I have my plow and ballast weight without putting to much in. Safety and the truck functioning properly is my main concern. Not worried about ride. Maybe I'll try 50 psi. I just wish there was a way to tell if it was correct or not. 

Thanks, NYH1.


----------



## jasonv

NYH1;1722108 said:


> My truck came with 275/60-20 wheels and tires. The first thing I did was buy a set of factory 17" wheels (actually have two pairs now) and tires. I changed then as soon as I could. The 20" tires sucked.
> 
> I ran 40 psi. in my current tires for a few weeks last fall and really liked the way it handled over 36 psi. in them. When I was having my tires rotated (free rotation) I asked the guy about running them at 40 psi. instead of 36 psi. He said if I ran more pressure in them then I needed I could wear out the center of the tire faster then the outside edges, as mentioned. He said to put more air pressure in them when I had a load in the truck or when towing.
> 
> So now I'm trying to figure out how much air pressure to put in them when I have my plow and ballast weight without putting to much in. Safety and the truck functioning properly is my main concern. Not worried about ride. Maybe I'll try 50 psi. I just wish there was a way to tell if it was correct or not.
> 
> Thanks, NYH1.


There *IS*. But it depends on knowing the weights on the axles. Then you just look it up in the charts I linked to in post #14 of this thread.


----------



## johnhenry1933

jasonv;1721451 said:


> Reading helps, I suggest you actually try it rather than picking apart a small portion of a statement while ignoring all of the very very necessary CONTEXT.


My comprehension (not "reading") is quite adept, thank you. Please try to comprehend what I'm relaying below.


----------



## johnhenry1933

Whiffyspark;1721477 said:


> No he won't lol.
> 
> *1000 lbs is nothing*. Thats probably not even over payload.


LOL? How old are you?

1000 lbs. is nothing?

Firstly, it's a 1/2 ton truck.

Secondly, it's a half ton truck that's loaded (quad, 4x4, hemi, slt).

Thirdly, the rated payload for that vehicle is 1,370 lbs. (look it up).

Fourthly, it's over a thousand pounds with plow and ballast. That does *not* include a full tank of gas (150 lbs.) passengers, tools and equipment, etc., etc., etc, which will readily exceed the payload, and maybe even hit 1500 or 1600 lbs.

So you see, son, what you call "nothing" "LOL", is actually *exceeding the manufacturer's rated payload*. All winter long. And shoving snow back and forth. I wouldn't call that "nothing."

And we wonder why we need DOT officers and State Patrol. I don't. Huh.


----------



## SnoFarmer

Dot will not hassle him for weight nor will they care if he is over loaded .

What they will pay attention to is the weight capability of his tires.

If you are paying attention you will see overloaded 1/2 tons all the time.

if his "D" rayed tires can carry 3000K at max inflation and he is scaled (for some reason) as long as he doesn't go over this 3000k he'll be all right.
He'll drive away with out a fine..



johnhenry1933;1722442 said:


> And we wonder why we need DOT officers and State Patrol. I don't. Huh.


----------



## Whiffyspark

johnhenry1933;1722442 said:


> LOL? How old are you?
> 
> 1000 lbs. is nothing?
> 
> Firstly, it's a 1/2 ton truck.
> 
> Secondly, it's a half ton truck that's loaded (quad, 4x4, hemi, slt).
> 
> Thirdly, the rated payload for that vehicle is 1,370 lbs. (look it up).
> 
> Fourthly, it's over a thousand pounds with plow and ballast. That does *not* include a full tank of gas (150 lbs.) passengers, tools and equipment, etc., etc., etc, which will readily exceed the payload, and maybe even hit 1500 or 1600 lbs.
> 
> So you see, son, what you call "nothing" "LOL", is actually *exceeding the manufacturer's rated payload*. All winter long. And shoving snow back and forth. I wouldn't call that "nothing."
> 
> And we wonder why we need DOT officers and State Patrol. I don't. Huh.


Wow.

You do realize this is about tire pressure right?

The truck came with P rated tires - and is rated to carry 1500 lbs payload with P rated tires. The guy has D range - 8 ply tires. Those Tires have NO issue holding 1000 Lbs. There is NO reason to run them at MAX psi. 65 Psi on a half ton is Ridiculous. That truck will never carry what they are rated for

If you're really worried about a couple hundred pounds on a TRUCK, you need to be driving a class 8 truck. I'm sure they'll carry plenty of weight for you.

I guess we should all stop running around with vbox's and 8-9 foot plows too right? :laughing:


----------



## johnhenry1933

SnoFarmer;1723438 said:


> Dot will not hassle him for weight nor will they care if he is over loaded .
> 
> What they will pay attention to is the weight capability of his tires.
> 
> If you are paying attention you will see overloaded 1/2 tons all the time.
> 
> if his "D" rayed tires can carry 3000K at max inflation and he is scaled (for some reason) as long as he doesn't go over this 3000k he'll be all right.
> He'll drive away with out a fine..


In this state (WI...which is all I can speak to is that is the limit of my familiarity):

The DOT and Patrol do check against limits. Not only GVWR, but the tag (for light trucks it's A,B,C,D, heavy trucks have different nomenclature). It is a simple thing to see what your tag limit is.


----------



## SnoFarmer

Sure if you air up with out a load you will wear out the center first, but you are far from running empty.

low psi will result in you rolling the tire off of the rim.
It will effect handling, it will allow for rim damage from hitting a pot hole or curb.
and it will wear down the outside edge of your tires.

air up....

go load up your truck with all of your gear, plow, full tank of fuel, etc and go weight it.
the whole truck, then just the front axle then the rear axle.
then we will know your weight.



NYH1;1722108 said:


> .
> 
> I ran 40 psi. in my current tires for a few weeks last fall and really liked the way it handled over 36 psi. in them. When I was having my tires rotated (free rotation) I asked the guy about running them at 40 psi. instead of 36 psi. He said if I ran more pressure in them then I needed I could wear out the center of the tire faster then the outside edges, as mentioned. He said to put more air pressure in them when I had a load in the truck or when towing.
> 
> So now I'm trying to figure out how much air pressure to put in them when I have my plow and ballast weight without putting to much in. Safety and the truck functioning properly is my main concern. Not worried about ride. Maybe I'll try 50 psi. I just wish there was a way to tell if it was correct or not.
> 
> Thanks, NYH1.


----------



## johnhenry1933

Whiffyspark;1721477 said:


> No he won't lol.
> 
> 1000 lbs is nothing. Thats probably not even over payload.
> 
> 36 is for P rated tires. His tires are not OEM. D tires are 8 ply


Wow. 1,000 lbs?

What about the curb weight (of the truck itself)? Does your 1,000 lbs. include that?

The curb weight is 5273, + approx. 1500 lbs. payload =6773 lbs. not 1,000. That translates to 1693 lbs. per tire, not 1,000.

This is really rather simple arithmetic.

As already stated, I would rather protect my tires and rims (and life) than ride "comfortable" in a work truck with those risks.


----------



## SnoFarmer

When you get back from the scale, (weighing your truck)
try this site.
punch in your #'s
http://www.yokohamatire.com/air_pressure_calculator


----------



## johnhenry1933

SnoFarmer;1723481 said:


> When you get back from the scale, (weighing your truck)
> try this site.
> punch in your #'s
> http://www.yokohamatire.com/air_pressure_calculator


That's a handy site.

On my heavy trucks, I run 18 ply Continentals, and virtually always keep them at 105 psi. I do not lower them ever, and only increase them to 115-120 if nearing maximum load.


----------



## SnoFarmer

^yea, but upon further investigation it's not going to help us pick-up owners.
humm.

try this one instead.
http://www.tirepressurecalculator.com/


----------



## johnhenry1933

SnoFarmer;1723508 said:


> ^yea, but upon further investigation it's not going to help us pick-up owners.
> humm.
> There has to be something out there?


Well, if one follows the rating on the tire, and some common sense, I don't know that there's a lot of latitude out there. Most tires really only have a working range of about 20psi.

Lower for ride and near lower weight range, higher (or highest) when approaching max range, and to prolong tire life (for those tires w/o beefed up sidewalls).

My 245's on one of my light trucks take 80psi, but I have found a happy medium to be 70psi.

Trial and error may be necessary, so it pays to have your own compressor(s).


----------



## 32vld

johnhenry1933;1723457 said:


> Wow. 1,000 lbs?
> 
> What about the curb weight (of the truck itself)? Does your 1,000 lbs. include that?
> 
> The curb weight is 5273, + approx. 1500 lbs. payload =6773 lbs. not 1,000. That translates to 1693 lbs. per tire, not 1,000.
> 
> This is really rather simple arithmetic.
> 
> As already stated, I would rather protect my tires and rims (and life) than ride "comfortable" in a work truck with those risks.


Maybe my post was to long and people did not get my point.

There use to not be much difference between the door jamb pressure and the side wall pressure.

A few years ago Fords with Firestone tires where having tire failures and law suits. Ford said the tire where bad. Firestone said that Ford was telling there customers to run their tires at too low of a pressure and that is why all the tires failed.

Todays the difference between the door jamb pressure and the tire sidewall pressure has greatly widened.

Running at the door jamb pressure can cause the tires at 24 lb to wear out faster on the edges just as running the tire at the 44 lb pressure can cause the center to wear out faster.

I cited how with my unloaded suburban that to get even wear I needed to be in the middle of the door jamb and the sidewall

People can see how much weight their tire can support at specific PSI by googling.

The OP's tires will handle the weight because the door jamb should give a PSI that will handle the load. Any doubt can be cleared up by a google search.

The OP stated that he was adding 1,000 lbs to his truck. Most likely his truck will be left with this weight for 4 months. That is long term enough to effect tire wear. He started this thread talking about tread wear.

Even though he had no tread wear problems before adding this weight does not mean he will continue to have the same wear.

He most likely will need to up his PSI because his tires will most likely wear different. The OP is trying to anticipate wear problems and avoid them before they happen. Him raising his PSI and then watching and observing is better then waiting to see a problem. Him having a tire running at 36 lb and going to 50 lb is a good place to start. He is only adding half the pay load capacity of his truck. Going to 65 lb most likely will not be needed.

Though if it turned out to be needed him trying 50 lb will of decreased uneven treadwear that he would of gotten if he stayed at 36 lb.

Running a truck empty, 1/2 rated load, or fully loaded can make enough difference on what the best PSI is for the best tire wear.


----------



## SnoFarmer

The sticker in the door jam goes out the window when he puts a tire of different size on it or a different load range.
The sticker only apples to the stock tire, size and weight rating.

He is adding a plow and counter weight.
I bet the weight is more than he thinks it is when he has it filled up with fuel and "all" of his gear in it, tools, salt,sand, shovels and 1/2 a box of snow..

I have a truck that gives 2 different psi suggestions one for a light load/empty and one for when loaded up.

I agree there is a difference between loaded and unloaded psi..
.



32vld;1723521 said:


> The OP's tires will handle the weight because the door jamb should give a PSI that will handle the load. Any doubt can be cleared up by a google search.
> 
> The OP stated that he was adding 1,000 lbs to his truck.
> Running a truck empty, 1/2 rated load, or fully loaded can make enough difference on what the best PSI is for the best tire wear.


----------



## ppkgmsy

Kind of off topic, but I heard a funny story on the Car Talk radio program. A guy from Texas bought a new car, and the mecanics at the shop told him he needed to come in regularly to have the air in the tires changed. He called Car Talk to find out if this was for real. They laughed at him and he concluded by saying, "I'm gonna' kill somebody."


----------



## SnoFarmer

^ you mean you don't change to summer air, then back to winter air as the seasons change?


----------



## Mitragorz

If you're looking for the correct tire pressure for tire wear (which, in my eyes, would be the optimal pressure for any given load) simply make a chalk line across the tire and drive it for a few revolutions. If the outside disappears first, add some pressure. If the middle of the line disappears first, take some pressure out. When the entire line disappears at the same rate, that's a good tire pressure for that weight. Do it with an empty truck then do it loaded with a plow and whatever ballast. Note those pressures so you remember them for next season.


----------



## johnhenry1933

SnoFarmer;1723508 said:


> ^yea, but upon further investigation it's not going to help us pick-up owners.
> humm.
> 
> try this one instead.
> http://www.tirepressurecalculator.com/


Don't feel so bad. They only list up to 16 ply 22.5's, and nothing above that.


----------



## jasonv

SnoFarmer;1723538 said:


> The sticker in the door jam goes out the window when he puts a tire of different size on it or a different load range.
> The sticker only apples to the stock tire, size and weight rating.


Actually, the sticker is valid for the stock *size* of tire (regardless of brand and weight rating). The weight rating on the tire is not related at all to the door sticker. If you have an "E" rated tire (80 psi max) and your door says 35 psi (unloaded), it is still correct to inflate it to 35 psi (unloaded).

The difference only comes in when you LOAD it. Because when you load it (significantly), you need to adjust the tire pressure to match the load. What the higher capacity tires offer, is a greater RANGE of adjustment for being more heavily loaded. I run an E-rated tire of STOCK SIZE (245/75R16) on my Toyota Tacoma. I realize that its overkill, I do it for the increased tread depth (tire life) and puncture resistance. I run them at 35-40 psi depending on load.


----------



## ColliCut

Mitragorz;1723630 said:


> If you're looking for the correct tire pressure for tire wear (which, in my eyes, would be the optimal pressure for any given load) simply make a chalk line across the tire and drive it for a few revolutions. If the outside disappears first, add some pressure. If the middle of the line disappears first, take some pressure out. When the entire line disappears at the same rate, that's a good tire pressure for that weight. Do it with an empty truck then do it loaded with a plow and whatever ballast. Note those pressures so you remember them for next season.


That sounds like a pretty good trick. Thanks for the insight, Mitragorz. Is this something you've personally used and had success with?


----------



## SnoFarmer

Like I said, the sticker is not valid for different load range of tire.

If your vehicle called for a "E" rated tire at 70psi and you put "D"rated tire on it you would not inflate it to what the doorjamb called for 70psi.



jasonv;1723741 said:


> Actually, the sticker is valid for the stock *size* of tire (regardless of brand and weight rating). The weight rating on the tire is not related at all to the door sticker. If you have an "E" rated tire (80 psi max) and your door says 35 psi (unloaded), it is still correct to inflate it to 35 psi (unloaded).
> 
> The difference only comes in when you LOAD it. Because when you load it (significantly), you need to adjust the tire pressure to match the load. What the higher capacity tires offer, is a greater RANGE of adjustment for being more heavily loaded. I run an E-rated tire of STOCK SIZE (245/75R16) on my Toyota Tacoma. I realize that its overkill, I do it for the increased tread depth (tire life) and puncture resistance. I run them at 35-40 psi depending on load.


----------



## Whiffyspark

jasonv;1723741 said:


> Actually, the sticker is valid for the stock *size* of tire (regardless of brand and weight rating). The weight rating on the tire is not related at all to the door sticker. If you have an "E" rated tire (80 psi max) and your door says 35 psi (unloaded), it is still correct to inflate it to 35 psi (unloaded).
> 
> The difference only comes in when you LOAD it. Because when you load it (significantly), you need to adjust the tire pressure to match the load. What the higher capacity tires offer, is a greater RANGE of adjustment for being more heavily loaded. I run an E-rated tire of STOCK SIZE (245/75R16) on my Toyota Tacoma. I realize that its overkill, I do it for the increased tread depth (tire life) and puncture resistance. I run them at 35-40 psi depending on load.


Look at your sticker closer. Legally, Youre wrong


----------



## JCByrd24

I tend to agree with JasonV because he is correct (and also my name is Jason so that's a bonus). Just because you put a higher load range tire on your truck doesn't mean it's appropriate to run it at the higher pressures listed on the tire. The pressure required to be run is related to the load on the tire. It has nothing to do with potholes or bumps, sidewall blowouts etc. In fact those factors would all be better at a lower tire pressure. The more pressure in the tire the less "give" or "spring". 

As JasonV pointed out, the weight of your truck even with plow and ballast is likely closer to the capacity of 2 of those tires at full pressure than 4.

Weighing your truck is very good advice, expect the manufacturer of the tire does not give you a capacity at a lower pressure to compare the sidewall rating with, thus you can't interpolate. In other words, if you are at half the weight of the sidewall rating, it's not appropriate to run half the pressure. There is some pressure (around 25-35psi) that is the empty rating, but it's not given. Perhaps the door sticker is the number to use here as suggested, but it is a different tire all together than the manufacturer suggested.

So if you weigh your truck with plow and you are somehow near the load carrying capacity of your tires at full pressure, by all means run there. I'm guessing you won't be close on the front or rear, but you will be closer on the front, so run those higher.

I'd agree with the recommendation of 50 (max) in the front and with only 480 lbs in the bed I'd do 40 in the rear. But if it were me I'd have like 700lb in the bed...but would still only run 40 or so in the rear. On a half ton there is absolutely no reason to run those tires at 65psi at the loads you mentioned.

Also, the chalk test is a great idea and lots of people recommend it. In all honestly I've personally never taken the time to do it. My tires always wear out evenly or due to cupping far before the middle wear vs edge wear issue due to pressure.


----------



## SnoFarmer

Ah no.
And for the reasons I stated.
In my post above.
2nd a soft tire in more prone to roll off the bead and is more likely to be to damage both tire and rim from impact..

Also under inflation,
Large cracks can also occur in the sidewall when your tire becomes overheated due to a lack of air in the tire.
If a tire is too soft, it handles poorly and in a sudden bump may rupture if the wheel rims pinch it against the jagged edge of a pothole.

* If tire pressure is too low(psi), the tire contact patch is changed more than if it were over-inflated.*
_Modern tire designs allow for minimal tire contact surface deformity during high pressures, and as a result the traditional wear on the center of the tire due to reasonably high pressures is only known to very old or poorly designed tires._

A soft tire increases rolling resistance, tire flexing, and friction between the road and tire. Under-inflation can lead to tire overheating, premature tread wear, and tread separation in severe cases.

A tire at higher pressure is more inclined to keep its shape during any encounter, and will thus transmit the forces of the road to the suspension, rather than being damaged itself.

Should a low-pressure tire be forced to perform an evasive maneuver, the tire wall will be more pliable than it would have been at normal pressure and thus it will "roll" under the wheel. This increases the entire roll movement of the car, and diminishes tire contact area on the negative side of the vector. Thus only half the tire is in contact with the road, and the tire may deform to such an extent that the side wall on the positive vector side becomes in contact with the road. The probability of failing in the emergency maneuver is thus increased.



JCByrd24;1725740 said:


> I tend to agree with JasonV because he is correct (and also my name is Jason so that's a bonus). Just because you put a higher load range tire on your truck doesn't mean it's appropriate to run it at the higher pressures listed on the tire. The pressure required to be run is related to the load on the tire. It has nothing to do with potholes or bumps, sidewall blowouts etc. In fact those factors would all be better at a lower tire pressure. The more pressure in the tire the less "give" or "spring".


----------



## Mitragorz

ColliCut;1725074 said:


> That sounds like a pretty good trick. Thanks for the insight, Mitragorz. Is this something you've personally used and had success with?


I've only actually used it once. The sweet spot for the tires on every truck I've owned, not counting the plow truck (two '93 Broncos and my '05 Silverado), seems to be 35psi. I'm more of a 33" and 35" balloon tire kinda guy, so whatever psi they rolled out of the truck shop with is what I kept them at. It was always 35psi and my wear was always even, as long as I rotate the tires at every other oil change. I did the chalk test once, out of sheer curiosity (like I said, I already knew what my tires liked to be at) and it just confirmed that 35psi was my number.

But once I get new tires put on the plow truck, I'll be doing the chalk test with the truck both loaded and unloaded.


----------



## johnhenry1933

SnoFarmer;1725832 said:


> Ah no.
> And for the reasons I stated.
> In my post above.


Hah. I don't know where some of these guys get their info. And then they keep insisting they're right, all evidence to the contrary.


----------



## JCByrd24

No one is talking about running a soft or under inflated tire, my recommendation was 50psi in the front and 40 rear! Have you had a tire roll of the bead at 40 psi, or even 25psi, or ever. Probably not. Overheat and fail, I doubt it. Because it wouldn't be under inflated!

The point is you're recommending max tire pressure on a tire significantly higher rated than that truck needs or was equipped with from the factory. The whole point of a tire is the cushion the loads from shocking the wheel and suspension, etc, otherwise we couldn't bother putting air in them and would just have a wheel coated with solid rubber. Again running at the max when not necessary transfers more load the the trucks components not less and I'm not talking about compared to an under inflated tire.


----------



## johnhenry1933

Well, someone in this thread repeatedly recommended running @ 35 psi (the min) with 1670 lbs. (or more) per tire.


----------



## 32vld

I tend to agree with JasonV because he is correct (and also my name is Jason so that's a bonus). Just because you put a higher load range tire on your truck doesn't mean it's appropriate to run it at the higher pressures listed on the tire.

Your are half right.
Does not mean it is not either. Unfortunately the correct PSI can only be found by trial and error by using the door jamb and sidewall PSI ratings, load range/PSI charts found on the internet then factor in how much your truck is loaded and how often it is loaded. Making the best guesstimate then monitoring tire wear will enable you to dial in to the best PSI 

The pressure required to be run is related to the load on the tire. It has nothing to do with potholes or bumps, sidewall blowouts etc. In fact those factors would all be better at a lower tire pressure. The more pressure in the tire the less "give" or "spring".

Lower PSI can cause the tire to have too much flex which is another can of worms. Along with not being able to absorb road shock. And allow a greater chance for the bead to break free.


----------



## SnoFarmer

Reread post #43, at it contains facts.

You and some of the rest can insinuate I'm wrong all day long, it does not change the fact I'm right.
All your doing is saying X,Y,Z and you not backing it up with anything more than "I think"
When I'm putting up facts from the auto/tire industry.

You need to educate yourself.
Where is your "evidence"?



johnhenry1933;1725899 said:


> Hah. I don't know where some of these guys get their info. And then they keep insisting they're right, all evidence to the contrary.


Nope, if your truck had a "D" tire it gave you a MAX psi.

The MAX psi is much different now that you have a "E" and the load can be substantially more than he carried with the "D" requiring more PSI.

He is or will be carrying "weight" and the PSI needs to appropriate. If you change load range the PSI listed in the door jam goes out the window.

Like I described posts above...

A "D" is not a "E" and visa versa, you will inflate them differentially for the same load.
as they are constructed differentially, and require different psi.


JCByrd24;1725960 said:


> No one is talking about running a soft or under inflated tire, my recommendation was 50psi in the front and 40 rear! Have you had a tire roll of the bead at 40 psi, or even 25psi, or ever. Probably not. Overheat and fail, I doubt it. Because it wouldn't be under inflated!
> 
> The point is you're recommending max tire pressure on a tire significantly higher rated than that truck needs or was equipped with from the factory. The whole point of a tire is the cushion the loads from shocking the wheel and suspension, etc, otherwise we couldn't bother putting air in them and would just have a wheel coated with solid rubber. Again running at the max when not necessary transfers more load the the trucks components not less and I'm not talking about compared to an under inflated tire.


We can know the correct PSI with out speculation or chalk we can do this 
by weighting the vehicle and using the charts supplied by the tire MFG's.

and another way is to take the temp across the tread.
(a ip gun will not work for this , you need a temp probe.)


----------



## SnoFarmer

I you can LIC a truck to carry over 10k
When the door sticker says 
In every state.

I have never had the DOT, when they stop me they have ever look at the door jam.
They scaled the truck and I showed them it was 
Licensed for over 10k.

They DID make sure the tires were rated for the weight I was carrying and sent me on my Way.



johnhenry1933;1723446 said:


> In this state (WI...which is all I can speak to is that is the limit of my familiarity):
> 
> The DOT and Patrol do check against limits. Not only GVWR, but the tag (for light trucks it's A,B,C,D, heavy trucks have different nomenclature). It is a simple thing to see what your tag limit is.


----------



## JCByrd24

Snofarmer, you do realize that you completely changed your story from "you're going to want to run them at max listed on the sidewall" to "weigh your truck and then find a weight capacity chart for the tire and size and figure out the appropriate pressure for the load".

The 2nd is correct though something I guess people rarely do, it is different from the first, which is totally wrong. 

Max psi is needed for max load only, which he is very likely not going to be near for those tires on his truck, but only the scales will tell. I would only be guessing but it would seem to me that the factory equipped tires would be legally required to be capable of handling the GAWRs for the truck, thus, a better guess before going to the charts would be the max listed on the factory tires. But like you said, different tires.

By the way the only one of these charts I could quickly locate was a not actually a chart but a Toyo guide to using the charts, and it specifically says the max listed on the tire is likely not the cold inflation pressure.


----------



## Whiffyspark

JCByrd24;1726935 said:


> Snofarmer, you do realize that you completely changed your story from "you're going to want to run them at max listed on the sidewall" to "weigh your truck and then find a weight capacity chart for the tire and size and figure out the appropriate pressure for the load".
> 
> The 2nd is correct though something I guess people rarely do, it is different from the first, which is totally wrong.
> 
> Max psi is needed for max load only, which he is very likely not going to be near for those tires on his truck, but only the scales will tell. I would only be guessing but it would seem to me that the factory equipped tires would be legally required to be capable of handling the GAWRs for the truck, thus, a better guess before going to the charts would be the max listed on the factory tires. But like you said, different tires.
> 
> By the way the only one of these charts I could quickly locate was a not actually a chart but a Toyo guide to using the charts, and it specifically says the max listed on the tire is likely not the cold inflation pressure.


That's what I've been saying all along is that half ton cannot possibly come close to the weigh d range tires need to be at for max psi

His truck came with P range tires. They aren't even close to D

If the manufacturer says P rated tires are good for the payload it will take. Then why the hell would you need max psi for 8 ply tires on a HALF TON truck


----------



## Dogplow Dodge

Mitragorz;1723630 said:


> If you're looking for the correct tire pressure for tire wear (which, in my eyes, would be the optimal pressure for any given load) simply make a chalk line across the tire and drive it (STRAIGHT LINE) for a few revolutions. If the outside disappears first, add some pressure. If the middle of the line disappears first, take some pressure out. When the entire line disappears at the same rate, that's a good tire pressure for that weight. Do it with an empty truck then do it loaded with a plow and whatever ballast. Note those pressures so you remember them for next season.


DING, DING, DING, DING......

WE HAVE A WINNER !

:redbounce


----------



## JCByrd24

Never actually done the chalk test, can you really tell an under inflated tire? My understanding has always been you need to start at the max pressure and work you way down because under inflated you won't actually see chalk left on the center.

Also, I didn't look far enough in the toyo pdf, there are actually standard charts published by the Tire and Rim Association that can be used, very informative, but the vehicle weight it still needed. For the OP, if you have no scales you could use your front GAWR to be fairly accurate as you're probably bumping right up against it and the rear I'd run a few psi less (your RAWR will be higher and you won't be as close to it with only 480 rear ballast).


----------



## Dogplow Dodge

JCByrd24;1727099 said:


> Never actually done the chalk test, can you really tell an under inflated tire? My understanding has always been you need to start at the max pressure and work you way down because under inflated you won't actually see chalk left on the center.
> 
> .


That's sort of how I do it. My front tires I'm always at or just under max pressure on the tires in both my pickups.  The rears are usually 10-20lbs less, otherwise they'd wear out the centers of the tires. When I load up the truck with stuff, and I'm going to be hauling for a while, I fill the rears up to max. Running the max in the tires gives me the best fuel economy as well, as the tire's not fighting itself to roll. I'm just lazy when it comes to my two trucks to figure out exactly the right pressure. I'll just rotate them ever 10K, correct the tire pressures to opposite of what they were, and be done with it.

A nice dry day, and a good size runway to do the chalk thing.

BTW.... A really cool video to watch and learn...






at 5:30 into the video, he talks about tire pressure


----------



## JCByrd24

FAWR on OPs truck is 3900lbs. Per TRA inflation chart for LT285/70R17 the load capacity of those tires is 2105lbs at 35 psi (lowest on chart). My guess would be it's not recommended to go any lower and it's actually not recommended to go lower than the door panel suggests. Personally I'd run em closer to 40. I learned a lot on this thread so thanks all.


----------



## mrwolf

Don't know if I'm is just piling in at this point. The vehicle I have had the most trouble with is my wife's xj (2001 cherokee) stepped up to 31" e rated tires for her 7.5' sno way. I need to run those at about 26 psi normally to keep it from beating her and the kiddies to death and from producing a very occasional "death wobble" . However , when she is plowing we run them at 50 psi. Otherwise they just look like they are gonna pop and feel way to mushy. I run D rated on a little 2600lb Toyota and need to run them at about 28-30 unless loaded down, then I step up to about 35.


----------



## NYH1

I'll run the tire pressure at 50 psi until I can get the truck and axle weight. Maybe I'll do the chalk line thing too.

Thanks, NYH1.


----------



## NYH1

WOW. . . . .I can't tell you guys how much of a difference the added air pressure going from 36 psi. to 50 psi. has made to the way my truck handles in every way possible with the plow on, ballast weight against the tailgate, full tank of fuel. It's night and day different for the better. From starting off from a dead stop, to stopping, turning, driving straight at all speeds, changing lanes at all speeds, plowing, the traction of my DuraTrac's is as good as they've always been (best all round tire I've ever used. . . . ._GREAT in snow as well as in mud for hunting season_), you name it, it's better with the added air pressure!

I realize I still may need to adjust the air pressure some when I get the fully loaded truck weight, as well as the front and rear axle weights. And I'm also going to do that chalk line test too. But asking you guys the question and all of your replies with all of the great information you guys gave me was a great help and pointed me in the right direction to start at 50 psi.

I'm due for another tire rotation (free tire rotations for the life of the tires). I'll ask the guys at the tire shop what they think about what air pressure I should run with the added weight of the plow on the front and the added ballast weight on the rear of the truck. Some of their guys have been there a long time and are really good and helpful. It won't hurt to pick their brains a little. They've always been good to my family and I. We pretty much only buy tires from them because of their service. They've gone above and beyond for us more then a few times.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate all your help, NYH1!


----------



## SnoFarmer

But have you weighed it loaded and empty?
other wise your still just guessing at the psi.

here is the formula 
Single Tire: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure

Dual Rear Tires: (Axle Weight / 2) / (Tire Capacity weight x 2) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure

So we'll now start to plug in information provided from the scale and the tire. I'll start with the front axle. The first part of the calculation is dividing the axle weight in half to give the weight placed on each tire of the front axle.

(4,440 Pounds / 2) = 2,220 Pounds

Now we'll take the half weight and divide it over the the weight capacity of the tire. This should result in a decimal answer or a percentage of weight capacity that has been used.

2,220 Pounds / 3,415 Pounds = 0.65 (65% Percent)

WARNING: You should never see a answer above 1.00. You are over weight for the tires and/or vehicle.

Now we multiply the percent number against the maximum inflation pressure of the tire to get the inflation pressure for your current weight.

0.65 x 80 PSI = 52 PSI

Michelin has a good site that will back up my fourmoula.

http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp

you can do it right or guess, it's up to you.


----------



## jasonv

SnoFarmer;1726184 said:


> A "D" is not a "E" and visa versa, you will inflate them differentially for the same load.
> as they are constructed differentially, and require different psi.


That is ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT. You could not be more wrong.
For the same load, you inflate to the SAME PRESSURE.

The tire does not hold the load, the AIR PRESSURE holds the load.

The difference between a D and an E tire, is the amount of pressure that can be held before you run into the possibility of the tire sidewalls exploding. Yes, they are constructed differently -- an "E" rated tire will be THICKER, so that you can safely inflate it to a higher pressure in order to hold a higher load.


----------



## jasonv

Whiffyspark;1725678 said:


> Look at your sticker closer. Legally, Youre wrong


LOL. Legally, you can be thrown off the road for overinflating your tires.
It is DANGEROUS to overinflate your tires, even if the pressure is within the tire's maximum inflation pressure.


----------



## jasonv

Whiffyspark;1726990 said:


> That's what I've been saying all along is that half ton cannot possibly come close to the weigh d range tires need to be at for max psi
> 
> His truck came with P range tires. They aren't even close to D
> 
> If the manufacturer says P rated tires are good for the payload it will take. Then why the hell would you need max psi for 8 ply tires on a HALF TON truck


Two reasons actually;
1) Puncture resistance -- high load tires are thicker than passenger car tires and can take a lot more abuse on the sidewalls,
2) Many high load tires have deeper treads than the equivalent passenger car tires (i.e., same brand, model, and size), so will tend to last longer.


----------



## Whiffyspark

jasonv;1753360 said:


> Two reasons actually;
> 1) Puncture resistance -- high load tires are thicker than passenger car tires and can take a lot more abuse on the sidewalls,
> 2) Many high load tires have deeper treads than the equivalent passenger car tires (i.e., same brand, model, and size), so will tend to last longer.


...what does that have to do about needing max psi on a 8 ply tire?


----------



## jasonv

Whiffyspark;1753373 said:


> ...what does that have to do about needing max psi on a 8 ply tire?


Nevermind. Sorry, I missed the "max psi for" part. The implied statement of your question is correct.


----------



## Rick547

My head hurts after reading all these posts.


----------



## jpell

Rick547;1890668 said:


> My head hurts after reading all these posts.


I just read through the whole thread and I agree. My head hurts.


----------



## SnoFarmer

jasonv;1753352 said:


> That is ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT. You could not be more wrong.
> For the same load, you inflate to the SAME PRESSURE.
> 
> The tire does not hold the load, the AIR PRESSURE holds the load.


You can not inflate a "D" tire to the same psi you can a "E" tire. A D tire maxes out at65 and a E maxes out at 80 psi, so your going to it 80psi in the D tire?

I can't inflate the D to the psi of the E so you can't carry the same load, nor do they carry the same load at the same psi.



jasonv;1753355 said:


> LOL. Legally, you can be thrown off the road for overinflating your tires.
> It is DANGEROUS to overinflate your tires, even if the pressure is within the tire's maximum inflation pressure.


You couldn't be more wrong.
would you stop spreading this false info.
no ove is going to boot you ff the road for having your tire psi set at or close to the max psi,, it running under inflated and running a tire with to low of a weight rating.

you are not over inflating a tire if it is under the max psi listed on the sidewall of the tire regardless of that the sticker says in the door jam.

a D tire is going to be run at a lower psi, this tire will have a lot of sidewall flex, this creates heat that leads to most tire failures. A E tire inflated properly for the load will have much less sidewall flex.
and it can be inflated to a much higher psi.

this is also supported by the door jam sticker
of a 1500 compared to a 3500 or 2500.
regarding tire load range and tire psi recommendations.

I can;t even inflate a D to the recommended psi for my 2500. they would be 1 psi under their max just on the front and for a load I need 70 psi, a E tire that can Handel 80psi. and D cant handle the 70psi as it would be over nflated.

what is your point jasonv, are you trying t sell that a D can do the work of a E


----------



## SnoFarmer

again........



SnoFarmer;1725832 said:


> Ah no.
> And for the reasons I stated.
> In my post above.
> 2nd a soft tire in more prone to roll off the bead and is more likely to be to damage both tire and rim from impact..
> 
> Also under inflation,
> Large cracks can also occur in the sidewall when your tire becomes overheated due to a lack of air in the tire or when carrying a heavy load
> If a tire is too soft, it handles poorly and in a sudden bump may rupture if the wheel rims pinch it against the jagged edge of a pothole.
> 
> * If tire pressure is too low(psi), the tire contact patch is changed more than if it were over-inflated.*
> _Modern tire designs allow for minimal tire contact surface deformity during high pressures, and as a result the traditional wear on the center of the tire due to reasonably high pressures is only known to very old or poorly designed tires._
> 
> A soft tire increases rolling resistance, tire flexing, and friction between the road and tire. Under-inflation can lead to tire overheating, premature tread wear, and tread separation in severe cases.
> 
> A tire at higher pressure is more inclined to keep its shape during any encounter, and will thus transmit the forces of the road to the suspension, rather than being damaged itself.
> 
> Should a low-pressure tire be forced to perform an evasive maneuver, the tire wall will be more pliable than it would have been at normal pressure and thus it will "roll" under the wheel. This increases the entire roll movement of the car, and diminishes tire contact area on the negative side of the vector. Thus only half the tire is in contact with the road, and the tire may deform to such an extent that the side wall on the positive vector side becomes in contact with the road. The probability of failing in the emergency maneuver is thus increased.


----------



## SnoFarmer

I'll slap this dead horse another time.

A D tire run on your 2500 and up truck will result in a increase in rolling resistance this will lead to lower mpg.

the # of plies in the side wall these days doesn't mean what it did.Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire’s internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.


----------



## Doughboy12

WOW....Just wow.....
jasonv has NO earthly idea what he is talking about...those post should have been pulled before someone gets hurt by following what he is suggesting.


----------



## hellion

jpell;1890720 said:


> I just read through the whole thread and I agree. My head hurts.


I agree too. I'm going out and putting some air in 1 of my tires to make me feel better.


----------



## AccuCon

There is some seriously incorrect and dangerous information being posted here by individuals that clearly know not what they are talking about.

My head also hurts form this thread...Damn


----------

