# Ford F-350 question



## Dewey (Feb 1, 2010)

I'm in the market for a new to me plow truck . Today I looked at three .
Two had the 6.0 deisel in it,,,, I know that on of the deisels are more problematic than the other
These were at two dealerships... Both of the salesmen said that the typical problem with the 6.0 has been fixed but neither of them knew what the problem is....
The other had the V-10 in it
Just wondering what you guys think...

06 6.0 had 69'000 on it lariat loaded perfect shape with 9'2 Boss Vee $28000
03 6.0 had 55'000 on it Lariat real good shape 9'6" Fisher Vee $24000
06 V-10 had 80'000 on it Lariat real good shape no plow $ 22000


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## geer hed (Nov 22, 2010)

Well I don't have one but I have been told by others who do to stay away from the V-10s.


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## forbidden (Dec 22, 2010)

Go back even further and find a 01 or 02 with the 7.3L. I found one up here that I am considering, a 01 F350 reg cab deck dually 4x4 with the 7.3L. $8000 for it with 295000km's. He is on crack for what he is asking of the used Blizzard speedwing at $7000 though.


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## NEUSWEDE (Mar 14, 2003)

2003 and 2004 had the most problems with 6.0 . I had an 03 F350 with a 6.0 that I bought used and it was nothing buy problems. The newer 6.0 had the kinks worked out so the 06 should be a good canidate.

never owned a V10 a buddy of mine's company swears by them and have a fleet of 8 of them and never have problems.

Good luck


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## wastedwages (Feb 9, 2011)

If you are looking at used 6.0's here are a few considerations (along w/ the OASIS and CARFAX reports that are essential).

Some 6.0L weak points (things to check):

Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).

Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).

Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake). Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve. If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.

Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them.

If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).

Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.

Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI 4 + or CJ 4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.

Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!).

CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC’s without a CEL.

The Electronic Shift on the Fly ESOF sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).

Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness), or ball joint looseness. Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.

Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant or Fleetrite ELC coolant - anything else and there may be problems. Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge). As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).

Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.

Aftermarket air systems could be a problem. Many of them simply do not filter as well and could cause issues. Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!

Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?

Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids. Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look? Any pads need replacement? Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean? Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something.
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.


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## Ozark Hillbilly (Feb 10, 2011)

I agree with NEUSWEDE. Stay away from 03. Either 06 is good but the v10 is quite thirsty. My big question would be why Lariats? Instead of a 5 year old truck with some miles, maybe look at newer trucks in a lesser trim level for something that will live a hard life as a commercial vehicle. If you give up some luxury then you will get more truck and plow for your money. Sometimes when you are out plowing at 3am the simpler vehicle is the better vehicle.


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## Dewey (Feb 1, 2010)

Not looking for Lariats or 6.0 specifcally... I just want a 1 ton pickup Ford or Gm gas or diesel and these are what I saw today..... thanks for the info I appreciate it...


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## streetscrapin16 (Feb 9, 2010)

I have a v10 and it has great power. Pulls trailers like there not even there. Great motor mine has almost 160xxx on it.


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## Drakeslayer (Feb 11, 2011)

great info Wastedwages!Thumbs Up


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

Run, don't walk away from the '03 with the 6.0. They're nothing but trouble. (We've got one and it's been a nightmare.) For everything you ever wanted to know about the 6.0 liter motor, check this link out:

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/0907dp_6_0l_ford_power_stroke_engine/index.html

Basically, the later 6.0's were pretty good motors - despite a bad rap.


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## abbe (Sep 8, 2009)

Those prices are absolutely crazy. He's on crack for the 03


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## Chipper (Mar 30, 2008)

Make sure the build date is AFTER 1-06. Ford did some updates to the 6.0 to fix the problems that the earlier ones, 03-04 had. I currently have 226000 miles on my 2006 with the 6.0. She started every day even down to -20. Hasn't used any engine oil/antifreeze etc. and has pushed more snow this year then I could have imagined, WITHOUT 1 problem.....
Without seeing the trucks the 06 Diesel would be my choice. Stay away from the Wee-10.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

The Triton V10 is an absolutely fabulous motor. If you have ever heard of the reliable Triton V8s in the F-150s, the V10 is the same thing with 2 more cylinders. 

In an 06, that motor will be putting out 362 HP, and 457 lb. ft. of twist. Motor pulls great, is very reliable, and is extremely simple to maintain.

Over on Ford Truck Enthusiasts, there have been quite a few members hitting 300k with them.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

Dewey;1249375 said:


> Not looking for Lariats or 6.0 specifcally... I just want a 1 ton pickup Ford or Gm gas or diesel and these are what I saw today..... thanks for the info I appreciate it...


What are you intending on doing with the truck?


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## mwalsh9152 (Dec 30, 2008)

I'll agree with staying away from the 6.0's we had 25 2004's at my former work, and they were nightmares. A friend of mine has a 2005 6.0 and it is nothing but problems too, currently has a nasty skip that cant be found.

As for the V-10, I had a 99 and I loved it. They have since improved the power, and also the problems with spitting out spark plugs as of the 2005 model year I believe. As far as fuel economy....there really is only a small difference between the V8 and V10's thats compairing the two that I personally owned, and also feedback from people I know that own them as well.

If you want a diesel, you cant go wrong with a 7.3, take your time and you will find lower mileage 1999-mid2003 trucks that will just run and run.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

The only real problem you'll have with the V10 is losing exhaust manifold studs possibly resulting in a cracked exhaust manifold. Other than that its probably the best gas truck you can buy. Put a Tuner on it and watch out!


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## Dewey (Feb 1, 2010)

Pinky Demon;1249946 said:


> What are you intending on doing with the truck?


The plan is to use around the my sawmill..... pulling 5th wheel trailer.... I want a newer truck for plowing and sanding my route.... And keep the one I have now as a backup....


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## streetscrapin16 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yea when I first bought my v10 about a month later it blew the spark plug out. It was under warranty, they put a new head on it. The bill was $2400.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

plowguy43;1250072 said:


> The only real problem you'll have with the V10 is losing exhaust manifold studs possibly resulting in a cracked exhaust manifold. Other than that its probably the best gas truck you can buy. Put a Tuner on it and watch out!


These issues were fixed in 05 as well.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

Dewey;1250174 said:


> The plan is to use around the my sawmill..... pulling 5th wheel trailer.... I want a newer truck for plowing and sanding my route.... And keep the one I have now as a backup....


I think a V10 would work fine for you. I suggest you test drive and see what you like.


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## massfirefighter (Oct 14, 2008)

2004 6.0 110,000 miles, no problems. Change the oil and fluids and it will last forever. A few sour lemons don't ruin the bunch.


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## oldmankent (Mar 2, 2001)

What about that problem with the tranny cases cracking because of plow trucks reversing alot? What trucks did that affect and when was it taken care of?


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## mwalsh9152 (Dec 30, 2008)

I believe the transmissions had a recall or TSB that fixed the problems back in 04-05


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## wastedwages (Feb 9, 2011)

mwalsh9152;1251814 said:


> I believe the transmissions had a recall or TSB that fixed the problems back in 04-05


It was not a TSB but a FSA (kinda a recall?) # 05B27 and included 2005 trucks with 5r110 AND snowplow prep?? The low/rev clip would come out of the case and usually break the tranny case or main housing. The Transgo kits include a new heavier clip for the case and address EPC pressure that causes the issue. I think the aftermarket has a better fix than Ford.


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## wastedwages (Feb 9, 2011)

Found the actual info Ford put out.

Recall 05B27--2005 TorqShift Transmissions, Trucks with Snow Plow Package:
On trucks built prior to 1-12-05, the snap ring on the low/reverse planetary may become dislodged due to the frequent forward/reverse shifting common when plowing snow. If this occurs, damage to the low/reverse planetary or transmission case may occur. Ford will disassemble the transmission, inspect for damage, and replace the snap ring with a revised part, if no other damage is found. This recall has been extended to 9-30-06, regardless of mileage.


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## oldmankent (Mar 2, 2001)

The kicker is it is only covered on truck with the snow plow package. So, if you buy a truck that doesn't have the plow prep package, but put the heavier springs in yourself and crack your tranny you are screwed. Might as well do the after market fix before you need a new tranny.


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## mwalsh9152 (Dec 30, 2008)

we had that problem happen in a few of the vans, and even though it was the same issue it wasnt covered because it wasnt a truck with the plow prep package


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## jerrywane (Mar 8, 2011)

*blows / warped heads*



massfirefighter;1251108 said:


> 2004 6.0 110,000 miles, no problems. Change the oil and fluids and it will last forever. A few sour lemons don't ruin the bunch.


My o4 f350/6.0 blew the heads& gaskets,several egr valves,total cost $8,000.......i am friends with the mechanic and thy have major issues with that year and the 05s also....125,000 miles.I also had them replace the high pressure oil pump,front coolant hoses,a real P i a.I have to do Ball joints,and [email protected] a cost of $1,500 buckerooos:realmad:


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## ColvinsPS (Oct 16, 2010)

I would look more towards the 06 6.0 if you like it and can swing it. The 03 is scary since they had so many problems. 

I am surprised no one mentioned that the v10 has to have the cab pulled to change the spark plugs!? This was a major deterrent for me. 

If you are willing to check into all the possible problems with the 6.0, once you have addressed them and maybe put some money into bypassing the EGR system then you will have a solid truck.

I would definitely go diesel for pulling the camper anyways!


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## mwalsh9152 (Dec 30, 2008)

Ive never heard that you have to pull the cab to change spark plugs, I think you got some bad info there.


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## Pinky Demon (Jan 6, 2010)

mwalsh9152;1262827 said:


> Ive never heard that you have to pull the cab to change spark plugs, I think you got some bad info there.


What he said.


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## Dewey (Feb 1, 2010)

I do know that pulling the cab is the easier way to change the rear injectors on a deisel... I would assume it may be the same for a gasser..mmmmmmm


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