# Ford 7.3 2 piece oil pan



## edosher

All right guys, I have the dreaded 7.3 oil pan rust problem and I need to get this fixed ASAP.

I came across this link the other day for a 2 piece oil pan.

SALT ate my POWERSTROKE ...........................OIL PAN

They claim the new pan can be replaced without pulling the motor and that there is enough clearance between the crossmember and crankshaft.

WILL THIS WORK??

I do have a garage of tools and ambition, but I do not have the funds for a trip to the dealership for an engine pull. I also do not want to be the first guinea pig on this... 

Is there anyone else who has tried this or will try??


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## Clapper&Company

That would be sweet if you can do this, I have never hear of this.

But would be alot EZ then pulling to motor, keep us posted on how this works


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## edosher

I know that Ford recommends that the engine has to be upside down for the gasket to seal correctly, and I know of the cons of another seal to go bad, but having a hole in your oil pan and 14 quarts of Rotella on your driveway isn't fun.

I guess that I am asking if the front of the pan will clear the crankshaft/rods/pick-up tube and the front crossmember without unbolting the motor mounts?

PS- New York City FD and Sanitation were cutting the crossmembers out of their trucks to change the oil pans and then welding them back in...... total time for a mechanic was 1 1/2 hours......


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## Flipper

I cut the pan for the first time doing one last spring. Instead of welding it back, I welded tabs to the ends and drilled them so that the center piece now actually bolts back in. This was it could be removed again if needed. 6 months now and no leaks though. 

The two piece idea is intriguing though.


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## mike psd

how about that link so we can see it ? btw salt prob helped the problem along the way but it common problem it just poor metal


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## Flipper

Its a craiglist item for sale out of Chicago. The guy wants like $450 for it. I am going back and forth with him on e-mails

Essentially it is a oilpan cut in half about halfway up the shallow part. Then it is flanged with a gasket and bolts. You put the front end in from the front and the back end from the back, bolt them together and then up in place. 

A good idea. I have a 97 to do and I may try it out. If I do I will take photos.


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## bluerage94

I had the same problem with the pan, I was lucky the dealer covered it.


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## brad96z28

I have seen that ad here on craigslist also. But I think if it where credible some one would be making a ton of money on it and u would be able to buy it somewhere else then some guy on craigslist. If u do it I would love to see the photos and see if it leaks less afterwards


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## mike psd

first of all you can do that yourself if handy with a welder and metal skills . 2nd if not for can have one made at a fab / machine shop. i was under the impression that it was like a duramax style with the aluminum top with a steel sump .


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## Flipper

I looked into having pans pressed out of stainless. Because of the size and draw it would have been 600-700 with a minumum for them to do. 

I agree you could do it with a welder and wondering why it hasn't come out. That is why I want the guy to send me more so I can see what it about.

I personally would like to see a plastic pan. Lots of big trucks running them now. Even International has one, just not sure if it would work in the Ford.


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## mike psd

lets just say if there was a "simple" fix it would have been out now best one i saw was at advance auto parts pass UL labs for salt spray test . this whole problem could have been fixed with better metal and coating system and a bolt in cross member


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## MickiRig1

You would think someone would come up with a fix for the rust out problem. I bet they all rust out in the same places. When I bought my F-250 7 years ago it had a new pan on it.
At the end of the last season it had 3 holes in the pan dripping oil. I fiberglassed it. But with the exhaust so close to it I don't have much faith on how long it will last.
I just bought a 99 F-250. The diff cover had rusted out and was weeping oil. Come on ! this stuff should not rust out!!! Other than a dealership the only place I could get a replacement cover was Summitracing near me. The guy that sold me the cover said he sells 2-3 a week to Ford owners with the same problem.


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## Wieckster

Have you guys heard of POR-15 it is a paint sealant system that will go right over rust I bought a kit and am going to do my oil pan in my 01 ford Guys on the ford sites swear by this stuff I will let you know when I get it done look it up for more info


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## dieselmac99

I know this an old thread, but I was looking for either an upgraded or two piece pan.... still no luck. Saw the comment about the NYDOT cutting crossmembers to do it. When I was going to have one done, I called mass diesel in walpole for a price and it was like 900 bucks and they cut it. turnaround was one day. local ford dealer wanted 1800 and 1 week to do it.


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## forestfireguy

Our staff mechanic does the cut and bolt method.


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## JohnnyRoyale

I have been replacing mine the old fashioned way but came across this in my pursuit for an alternative....


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## dieselmac99

Ya I had seen that cap from damian. I've heard mixed things about it, but hey if you're gonna change it anyway, it can't hurt (well except for your wallet). You would think somebody would have put a heavier modified version into production by now...


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## dellwas

Yup, that would be Damian and he is a member on here. Do a search, and you'll find a few posts about his process. Mine is holding up to JB Weld, but I'll be contacting him to have a kit shipped out, or doing the cut and bolt method when the time comes.



JohnnyRoyale;1150928 said:


> I have been replacing mine the old fashioned way but came across this in my pursuit for an alternative....





dieselmac99;1150933 said:


> Ya I had seen that cap from damian. I've heard mixed things about it, but hey if you're gonna change it anyway, it can't hurt (well except for your wallet). You would think somebody would have put a heavier modified version into production by now...


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## camaro 77

I have a buddy that does them alot and does not cut the frame or the pan I think he does them for rt around 600 I think he jacks the motor up with the turdo removed he loves them and it is his gravy work he is a diesel tech at a dealer and does them at his shop at his house


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## dieselmac99

camaro 77;1152774 said:


> I have a buddy that does them alot and does not cut the frame or the pan I think he does them for rt around 600 I think he jacks the motor up with the turdo removed he loves them and it is his gravy work he is a diesel tech at a dealer and does them at his shop at his house


well that is certainly an interesting approach.


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## camaro 77

dieselmac99;1152783 said:


> well that is certainly an interesting approach.


ya he does them fast to I think like 4-5 hours


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## sno commander

if your good and have the tools you can do it with a buddy in 8 hrs the old fashion way. the motor comes out pretty easy one main wire plug quick connect fuel lines and a couple hoses. the hardest part is the front clip mainly because all the bolts break off. its a fun project. its nice to pull the motor, paint the whole thing and make it look good. maybe im just nuts


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## mwalsh9152

like sno commander said, there really isnt a lot of accessories to remove on the engines. 

Before I put the engine in my Bronco, I bought a new pan and had it sandblasted, then POR'd it and slapped it on. I didnt have an engine stand big enough for a diesel, so I had to do it right side up, and had no leaks.


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## sno commander

i also did my oil pan from the bottom and no leaks. the ford oil pan sealant is awesome very sticky it will support the whole pan with out any bolts. its all i use now for sealing things, i buy the tube that goes right in the caulk gun.


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## mr.muddmotors

remove the trans and lift the engine. comes right out. i heard ford had a "epoxy paint" that supposedly nutralizes the rust and coats the pan for future rust. never used it myself but a friend of mine said he sealed a pan that looked like cottage cheese. ford also sells grey rtv for powerstroke diesels that works extremly well for sealing anything.


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## powerstroke1414

just wondering where your buddy is located because im looking to have my pan replaced in my 02 f350 powerstroke. thanks


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## coldcoffee

My diesel mechanic told me he has had success w/ being able to jack up the motor just enough to gain clearance. He quoted me around $600 to do the job. I also talked to a guy who did the fiberglass pan, he said after almost a year later he still has no leaks...he swears by it, but also said he let the oil drain for 3 days before the install. I'll be doing my 97 this summer, so I'll post after it's done...


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## mwalsh9152

mwalsh9152;1153641 said:


> like sno commander said, there really isnt a lot of accessories to remove on the engines.
> 
> Before I put the engine in my Bronco, I bought a new pan and had it sandblasted, then POR'd it and slapped it on. I didnt have an engine stand big enough for a diesel, so I had to do it right side up, and had no leaks.


I would like to retract my "no leaks statement"

I was tracking down an oil leak that we couldnt find. Thought it was coming from above. Nope, it was from the pan  When I put the pan on initially, it was hanging from a wrecker, and I skimmed the silicone off in one spot when I brushed it against a main bolt. It was leaking out from that spot. Yanked the engine back out and bought a stand this time to make sure I got a good seal. All better now


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## MrPLow2011

You cut the rivits out of the cross member that is on your way. Fix oil pan and use grade 8 bolts to reinstall the cross member


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## dieselmac99

Just heard from a friend that has the same truck as me except a short bed and he did his in his driveway when he did his clutch. Pulled tranny and was able to jack up the motor enough to clear.


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## 02powerstroke

I love how people will do twice the work of pulling the motor to do this...Pulling a 7.3 is not the end of the world


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## mwalsh9152

agreed, as long as you have the ability to lift that kind of weight, and then have a stand to support it.

Going back in is a lot easier if you know to drop the engine in sideways, then turn it once it clears the wiper cowl and rad support. Confused the hell out of my friends with that one.


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