# Paint recommendations for plow blade



## kcplowman (Nov 27, 2009)

Whats a good paint for painting my old plow blade with. Its and old 7.5 meyer that I am redoing and putting on a skid. I would like to have it powdered but that not really an option right now. Just looking for something that will hold up pretty well and not wanting to go the rattle can route. Thanks


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## Morrissey snow removal (Sep 30, 2006)

o use john deere constrution yellow holds up great


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## mikelawtown (Dec 5, 2004)

I have used a spray can made by ACE Hardware. It's apaw safety line paint, something like that. 6.99 a can (i use 2 cans)and it usually holds up for a few yrs, the last time i painted mine was 4 yrs ago. Pic in my sig


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## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

1 qt of sunburst yellow http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=150

1 cheep brush

1 cheep roller

1 cheep tray .

paint it up. been working for me for few years and its cheep.


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## kcplowman (Nov 27, 2009)

Can any of these paints be thinned out and sprayed?


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## BuffaloJoe (Oct 20, 2009)

Wire wheel everything with a grinder or sand blast if that's an option. Prime with a good rust inhibitor primer like Checkrust from Insl-x. As far as paint Sherwin-Williams Industrial Enamel HS is a good choice. It can be thinned but I find that rolling gives you a better coat.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

Pick a color that glows in the dark


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## kcplowman (Nov 27, 2009)

Im actually thinkin like a cobalt blue, Im not too worried about about being true to the meyer yellow. When im done modifying the blade it wont look quite like a meyer. its getting another 1.5 to 2 ft added to it as well as some added bracing and a few more trip springs.


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## oneoldsap (Dec 26, 2011)

Chassis Saver , available at autobody supply stores !


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

The paint is only as good as what's under it. Get it smooth and the rust reformed you have a good starting point. It has to be totally clean. This will help the paint to stay in place. It depends on how nice you want it. Bondo can be used to smooth rough areas. You then sand it smooth. You can shoot primer and wet sand it to get it very smooth. NAPA stores that do paint can get you any color you want. (Auto paint) A quart and thinner should be enough. Shoot coats till your hearts content. You need at least 70 degrees to get it to set up / spray right. If the coat does not cover move on, the next one may. ( It keeps the runs / sags down ) Sags and runs can be rubbed out too. So it's not the end of a great paint job. Some people have even used fiber glass resin and paint pads to protect the working surface of mold boards. They put the mixed resin on with paint pads. It's hard as a rock and clear.


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

Go with POR15 it is not cheep but it holds up well. You will need to topcoat it. With something. I used a clear coat. And we use it on are trailers at work. It is thin you put it on with a brush and it looks like it was sprayed on. Check them out

I love my Z


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

I was diappointed with por-15....2 coats and i still have rust bleed thru


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

Sorry to here that. The only thing I don't like about it. It is not UV producted. It will fade in sun light. You can try a lacquer enamel
paint. Its a hard paint. A few cans should do your plow. 

I love my Z


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## Mackfire68 (Jan 10, 2010)

Isn't there special paint that should be applied to plows that keep the snow from sticking?


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## RepoMan1968 (Jan 9, 2012)

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/...jamin-moore-super-spec-hp-polyamide-epoxy-p36


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## Rc2505 (Feb 5, 2007)

Powder coating blades really looks nice, but I have found that the paint holds up better when you brush, or roll it on. I have powder coated 3 blades, and rolled 2. The rolled blades last longer, and hold up better.


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## ratherbfishin (Aug 1, 2011)

Go with POR 15...by far the best product out there,especially to go over rust!As far as the UV thing goes;the directions clearly state it will breakdown due to UV;you must topcoat.Use any quality topcoat or use one of POR brand topcoat.


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## Chiputz (Dec 28, 2010)

Best paint I found yet is brush on Rustoleum. If you roll it or brush it, the snow never sticks. I tried spraying it and the snow stuck like velcro.


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## RepoMan1968 (Jan 9, 2012)

Chiputz;1434525 said:


> Best paint I found yet is brush on Rustoleum. If you roll it or brush it, the snow never sticks. I tried spraying it and the snow stuck like velcro.


NEVER sticks ?


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## Chiputz (Dec 28, 2010)

I put two good coats on an old western blade I had and the snow never stuck to it. I painted it with a brush during the summer and it laid on smooth as silk. When I sold the truck three years after, it still looked great but could've used a touchup along the top of the cutting edge.


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## 03sd (Jan 16, 2012)

If you have a farm supply store in your area look for paint thats used on the inside of gravity boxes, I believe its graphite based it stops grain from sticking and its awsome for plows only problem its gray.


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## 518Landscapes (Dec 1, 2010)

little late on the post but o well, got some experience spraying our equipment. 

Spray paint!!!!!:laughing: If you do any serious plowing it will be gone in a few nights.POR 15 is nice but must be covered if in the sun it is UV reactive and will only stick to rust not shinny metal We use Single stage OMNI MTK epoxy primer & Acrylic urethane top coat,if you have rust you can use a rust converter called Rust Mort made by SEM it converts rust to a paint-able surface or grind it off, you can get this at any reputable auto body store, you will need a HVLP spray gun. we use this on trailers, dumps, plows, ETC..... dries hard as rock durable, nice shine, did I say last a long time.

Edit: Do your self a favor and do it right the first time is see a lot of misinformation on hear 

If you use a self etching primer you wont need to sand atall this isn't a show car just follow the directions on the product you pick.


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## jmac5058 (Sep 28, 2009)

Please dont bondo your plow.Thats got to be the worse advice Iv read on this forum ever.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

MickiRig1;1428048 said:


> The paint is only as good as what's under it. Get it smooth and the rust reformed you have a good starting point. It has to be totally clean. This will help the paint to stay in place. It depends on how nice you want it. Bondo can be used to smooth rough areas. You then sand it smooth. You can shoot primer and wet sand it to get it very smooth. NAPA stores that do paint can get you any color you want. (Auto paint) A quart and thinner should be enough. Shoot coats till your hearts content. You need at least 70 degrees to get it to set up / spray right. If the coat does not cover move on, the next one may. ( It keeps the runs / sags down ) Sags and runs can be rubbed out too. So it's not the end of a great paint job. Some people have even used fiber glass resin and paint pads to protect the working surface of mold boards. They put the mixed resin on with paint pads. It's hard as a rock and clear.


You've got to be kidding me. Bondo?? On a snow plow. Really?? IT A SNOW PLOW NOT A DOOR PANEL!!!

Don't Bondo your plow. That has to be the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Sandblast it and then paint it.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Bondo is not meant to be a structural repair product. It's meant to smooth transitions and rough areas. Not the whole surface. Prepped right it will stay in place. Very thin layer just to smooth the rough area.
It's a snow plow not a dozier blade.
If it's smooth the snow tends to roll or flow instead of stick.
Note I said:_It depends on how nice you want it. Bondo can be used to smooth rough areas. _


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## ajman21 (Oct 30, 2009)

if it were me ('course auto collision is my day job so i already have the equipment) i would go the base coat clear coat system. go to your auto paint store and pick up a good etching primer. u will also need 2k high build primer, a "global" (ie sherwin williams, du pont, ppg) line color and reducer. then ask them for a global clear coat with a hardner and reducer. make sure they give u the product data sheet for each product as this tells u how to use the product. sand the thing down to bare metal. take a hvlp gun (will be much smoother than brushing if u set up the gun correctly) and adjust it so that the the spray pattern is at its widest and the pressure is open all the way in the guns controls. set the regulator for the recomended pressure on the p sheet (usualy 24 to 29 pds). practice spraying water on the side of your car a bit to get the feal for over lap and speed. clean the gun with laquer thinner. clean surfice to be painted with wax and grease remover (water born or sulvant based) load with properly mixed product using the p sheets as your guide to recoating times and ratio and spray in the following order. etch primer,wait indicated time 2k primer (guide coat then sand after this has cured propertime with 220g then 320g then 600g wash with water born wax and grease remover the tact cloth) spray 2-3 coats base coat waiting proper time according to p sheet between coats, clear coat again using the p sheet for the guide line, then allow to cure according to p sheet once cured wetsand with 1500g till surface is a consistant "chalkish" white, 3000 g and buff with wool pad and compound at aprx 700-1100 rpm. if available continue with foam pad and coresponding compound. the surface will turn out like glass just be care full not to push too hard while buffing. dont wax for 90 days it will cause major problems with the clear coat. Should last a good long time while still looking good long as u can avoid hitting any thing too hard. i would not use any body filler (bondo) or for anything as it will, at the first good impact, crack and possibly pop out.


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## Murphy4570 (Jan 16, 2012)

I use Meyers Sno-Flo paint. Pricey stuff, but it works.


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## 2_Djinn (Dec 20, 2004)

What quality is the paint that Western sells ? And how well would it apply with a brush? Im facing a re-paint this year also.


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