# ?? truck frame paint ??



## red07gsxr

what to paint my truck frame with...


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## bribrius

rustoleum.


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## storm king

I have found rustoleum rusty metal primer to work really good on truck and equiptment chasis , seems to do a better job and last longer than some of the rubberized undercoatings we have tried before. 

You can slap it on with a brush or get it in a spray can and if you get the heavy rust off it will go over a little surface rust no problem. 

My 03 ford was rusting here and there after the first winter we got it and I coated it heavy with rustoleum and 5 years and 90,000 miles later no signs of rust at all.


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## Malakas82

gotta better one for ya..buy the spray cans of rubberized coating from auto zone or advance auto parts..runs the same price as the spray paint but offers more protection and lasts longer...i did it to my 87 blazer


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## red07gsxr

i want to brush it on. i am going to pull my truck bed this spring so i can clean and paint the frame. the truck is a 90 and doesnt have much signs of rust on the frame


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## Milwaukee

Malakas82;616058 said:


> gotta better one for ya..buy the spray cans of rubberized coating from auto zone or advance auto parts..runs the same price as the spray paint but offers more protection and lasts longer...i did it to my 87 blazer


I try that it piece of junk. It will peel and won't stay like paint do. It was cost $5.99 for each.

I thought it would stay but they was gone in 3 days of drive though dirt road plus rain.

And it very stink I can't smell but that smell give me dizzy. I open all window with fan because I was spray floor in F150 to stop rust grow.


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## deckboys

POR 15, one of the best paints i've seen. its solid once it dries!


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## adksnowo

Rubberized undercoating sort of flakes after a while, then holds crap/moisture against metal IMO. Por-15 is great. Rustoleum is good but it is cheaper to buy truck/trailer or tractor paint @ TSC. Can get the enamel hardener w/ it. Seems to outperform Rustoleum every which way to Sunday and costs less to boot.


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## tuney443

POR-15 is nothing more than good,make that very good concrete floor paint,that is it!! Do not use it on metal as within a year or less,you'll be pulling black strips of it off your frame.I did everything as I was supposed to and then some--wasted 3 days doing a thorough stripping of the old crud,prepping, and painting it on--all for less than a year's protection.The only place it didn't come off is the concrete floor at my bud's body shop where I installed it---now 5-6 years later and being scrubbed to death,that POR still looks fresh!!!! I found someone at a trade show who used to work for POR and he did indeed tell me it's nothing more than concrete floor paint.


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## red07gsxr

what should i use, i am getting negatives from every item.


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## storm king

Rustoleum rusty metal primer, a few coats and your frame is about as rust free as it gets . 
the rubberized crap is great untill it cracks and holds the moisture and salt water in , instead of out and you cant see the corosion untill your frame starts to rot out real bad, trust me stay away from the stuff ...been there done that.
and the guys are right about por-15 on steel ...it'snot made for it , great on concrete , sucks on iron


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## ABES

I sprayed mine with rubberized undercoating in a spray can a while back I took the time to clean and sand the frame. Well now maybe 6 months later its starting to peel off. I may end up scrapping it all off and painting it.


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## SnoFarmer

PPG, makes a frame & radiator paint.
It can be rolled brushed or sprayed on.
I have had good results with it.


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## 02powerstroke

POR-15 works great if the frame is rusty if it still has undercoating or paint on it comes out bad and peels.


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## Milwaukee

Have anyone try this? http://www.rustguy.com/rustconverter.html


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## tuney443

Cat makes a very durable,reasonably priced paint that looks good for about 5 years.I've seen it on the frames of tri-axle dumps by me at this one large contractor's shop.The mechanic swears by it there.


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## SNO-PRO

Por 15...best stuff out there.  Don't know why "tuney" had bad luck but nothing is perfect. It does bond better over rusty metal than on clean metal and when you use it on clean metal you need all there chemicals to etch it and clean it. It does need to be overcoated as UV rays will break it down.


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## The MAG Man

Malakas82;616058 said:


> gotta better one for ya..buy the spray cans of rubberized coating from auto zone or advance auto parts..runs the same price as the spray paint but offers more protection and lasts longer...i did it to my 87 blazer


I've both had and seen nothing but failures using rubberized bed lining and undercoating in this application. Those rubberized coatings trap more moisture and salt brine than they repel and they are impossible to remove later when you go to paint it. The problem with a frame is that most people don't remove all of the riveted and separate parts so the coating never gets under and on everything and those voids create an entry point for moisture and trouble. Yank off the cross members and drill out the rivets so you can get the coating under everything and whatever you do will last a lifetime plus one.

Like any coating, the key is in surface preparation. Prepare the surface carefully and according to instructions and speaking from my own experience, I have had good luck with POR15. I've never had it come off in sheets at all. When something comes off in sheets, it's a surface prep problem.

There was period of time when we thought powder coating frames on restoration projects was a good idea but it is not as good as it seems. Like rubberized coatings, once you get any break in the coating, it creates an entry point and water is trapped underneath because those coatings are a matrix to themselves and are more like a vacuum sealed bubble pack than they are a paint coating which adheres to the surface.

Invest in surface prep and then apply what works for you.


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## storm king

Mag man, couldn't have said it better... the job is only as good as the prep work.
Was talking with some people today who said the por 15 is great also. I had bad luck with it but some swear by it . oh well


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## red07gsxr

thanks guys i think i am going to try it. come spring the bed comes off anf the frame gets sanded.


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## tuney443

SNO-PRO;618788 said:


> Por 15...best stuff out there. Don't know why "tuney" had bad luck but nothing is perfect. It does bond better over rusty metal than on clean metal and when you use it on clean metal you need all there chemicals to etch it and clean it. It does need to be overcoated as UV rays will break it down.


Tuney had very bad luck with it because it just simply IS NOT what it is intended for.It is concrete floor paint.Period! At $100 per qt.{at the time},don't you think I prepped everything the way Por tells you?No, I didn't overcoat as this was not needed--no sun rays under my truck.


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## MickiRig1

As a painter I can tell you 9/10's of a good paint job is prep ! Use a garden sprayer with warm water and laundry soap in it. Spray all under body surfaces twice.
I then pressure wash the hell out of it. The Zero tip will take off all loose blisters, rust and under coating if it has any. I then finish cleaning with a wide tip front to back. Stay away from the wire loom and junction plugs. The pressure washer Will inject water into them. 
A gallon of gloss black Rustoleum in a cheap air spray gun or Wagner paint gun will go a long way. (Cans are expensive, Lowes had 16 oz cans on sale last week )
The paint works real well, you can see any new rust quickly. The black paint gives such a nice finished look to the frame and axle. I have done 2 trucks this way.
I have been working on the new to me truck for the last 2 weeks


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## red07gsxr

a buddy of mine used por 15 on his truck and it came out mint. i think i am going to try gloss black Rustoleum on my truck.. come spring i am going to do the cab corners and new body mounts. the cab is beginning to sag a little bit. anyone know where to get a set of stock height body mounts that are better then stock.


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## archer39

another vote for POR 15. i had good luck with it. Also check out www.eastwoodco.com they have very good products as well.


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## Megunticook

Removed the bed and did the frame on my '73 Dodge plow truck. Here's what I did, so far so good:

1. Wash frame thoroughly with detergent and water (can use something like Simple Green Degreaser, too)--get rid of any grease or oil. Use a stiff scrub brush, then rinse.

2. Take a stiff braided wire cup brush in an angle grinder and remove all loose paint, rust...this will get you down to clean metal pretty darn fast. 

3. Wash thoroughly again, detergent should be fine (or TSP), use a clean scrub brush, rinse. Let it dry very thoroughly (a couple days in the sun, or more indoors)

4. Brush on Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer on any rusted areas (in my case this was most of the frame), or use the Clean Metal Primer on shiny metal. The stuff in the can is thicker and superior to the spray. Don't do this on a real humid or rainy day--that metal surface needs to be bone dry and clean as a whistle.

5. Let that dry for at least 24 hours, then brush on Rustoleum Stops Rust Enamel, flat black. After another 24 hours or more, brush a second coat on. Then do a third coat using the same paint in the gloss finish (gloss is more durable--but if you want the "correct" factory look you can use the flat again or satin).

6. It will take a long time for this stuff to cure--weeks, even months. After a day the surface will be dry to the touch, but underneath it will still be wet. It will scratch easy and gouge down to bare metal if you scrape it, so just be aware. But after it cures, the stuff is bulletproof.

Just my opinion, but it's cheap and very effective if you take the time.


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## m2low

PORE 15 - definately - brush that on, let it dry real good and then put a coat of black frame paint over it to protect it from the UV rays, it will last forever and look good with minimal washing!!


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## red07gsxr

Megunticook;625847 said:


> Removed the bed and did the frame on my '73 Dodge plow truck. Here's what I did, so far so good:
> 
> 1. Wash frame thoroughly with detergent and water (can use something like Simple Green Degreaser, too)--get rid of any grease or oil. Use a stiff scrub brush, then rinse.
> 
> 2. Take a stiff braided wire cup brush in an angle grinder and remove all loose paint, rust...this will get you down to clean metal pretty darn fast.
> 
> 3. Wash thoroughly again, detergent should be fine (or TSP), use a clean scrub brush, rinse. Let it dry very thoroughly (a couple days in the sun, or more indoors)
> 
> 4. Brush on Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer on any rusted areas (in my case this was most of the frame), or use the Clean Metal Primer on shiny metal. The stuff in the can is thicker and superior to the spray. Don't do this on a real humid or rainy day--that metal surface needs to be bone dry and clean as a whistle.
> 
> 5. Let that dry for at least 24 hours, then brush on Rustoleum Stops Rust Enamel, flat black. After another 24 hours or more, brush a second coat on. Then do a third coat using the same paint in the gloss finish (gloss is more durable--but if you want the "correct" factory look you can use the flat again or satin).
> 
> 6. It will take a long time for this stuff to cure--weeks, even months. After a day the surface will be dry to the touch, but underneath it will still be wet. It will scratch easy and gouge down to bare metal if you scrape it, so just be aware. But after it cures, the stuff is bulletproof.
> 
> Just my opinion, but it's cheap and very effective if you take the time.


thanks i am going to do just that...pulling the bed in the spring, new body mounts and fix my cab corners and rocker panels. then to the paint shop for some new black paint.


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## davespark

I'm hoping the POR works for my oil pan... Surface prep is a pain on the oil pan, just can't reach it well.

-d


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## MickiRig1

Most of the rust on an oil pan comes on the right side, front and bottom. In theory the pan should not have oil on it so cleaning will not much of be a problem. Painting, Neat? who cares people can't see it.


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## plowtime1

SEM paints with etching mixed, haven't painted a chassis in five years. JMO


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## cornbinder

red07gsxr;618503 said:


> what should i use, i am getting negatives from every item.


the guys that use por-15 and have bad luck aren't putting it on right or something. i did the frame on my talk truck 3 years ago and it still doesn't need gone over yet. if you have oil residue a leak, or undercoating it will peel off very soon. if the surface is decent at time of application and the paint cures good, good luck getting it off!! i paint the spinner on my salt spreader every year with por-15, bye the ebd of the season it'll barely break threw the paint on the edges. tough stuff it all depends on the application, and the condition of the what your putting it on. i've had it peel on me and it was my fault, fuel leaks or something like that. after it cures though your in there. try it you'll be amazed, takes a solid 24 hrs. to cure.


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