# Unhooking - Rehooking advice



## furstwinhall (Feb 1, 2009)

So I just purchased a new to me 8.5' EZ V for my F350 V10. Plow is great, but I had to unhook it when I went to get the front springs swapped out on my truck, and a few questions came up...

1) I've never unhooked a plow from a truck (just from a tractor) and I didn't really know what to do so I put the plow all the way down in float, pushed the cylinder down, then lowered the "jack" stand, and then forced the pins out of the plates. This seems to be an odd way to unhook (plow sort of "dropped" when I got the pins to release), should I put the jack stand down while the plow is still hooked up so it takes more of the weight?

2) What should I do with the 3 plugs that are hanging both from the truck, and from the plow? The plow is under cover when unhooked, so its plugs may be fine, but the truck side plugs will get filthy driving around. One of the plugs has a cap, but the other two? Can I hook them to each other, buy caps...? Also, do I just leave them hanging, or tuck them somewhere?

3) Now when I go to rehook the plow the arms of the low will be a little lower than my plates... can I raise the plow a bit with a jack to line up the pins, or will that hurt it?

I'm totally new at thisThumbs Up


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## nepatsfan (Sep 16, 2004)

When taking it off push up a little on the headgear just enough to take a little weight off the pins...should slide right out. A little grease helps with this. I tuck the plugs in the grille and push them together. The pump plug should have the cover. When you go to rehook the plow, pull the headgear back toward you and it will raise the ears a little bit. Dont be afraid to grab the plow itself and wrestle it a little bit....you can actually move it with a good tug. If you are in all the way on one side and out a couple inches on the other. It just takes a little practice.

It sounds to me like you pretty much did it the right way.....I usually get between the plow and the headgear and put my shoulder into it a little when pulling the pins, just make sure to push on the frame and not the lights.


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## mercer_me (Sep 13, 2008)

These videos might help you out. You can plug two of the plugs together.


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

- Drop the plow and put it in float.
- Get out and put your weight on the piston to lower the triangle fully.
- Drop the jackstand and give the headgear a little push to get the thing to the next hole in the stand. The longer the jack is extended, the easier it will be to put the plow back on.
- Now that the stand is supporting the majority of the plow's weight, disconnect the electrical couplings.
- Push back on the headgear on the steel bar right next to the headlight and give the mounting pin a pull. If you've got it supported adequately, the pin will be loose and very easy to slide out and lock open.
- Repeat on the other side.
- Get back in the truck and back out of theplow, mine is a bit rusty and tends to stick somewhat so over the years I've found its more effective to nail the throttle in reverse to jerk the truck out of the plowframe...if I back out slowly I just drag the plow down the driveway.

No matter what I do, the headgear on mine tends to flop backwards towards the truck...it never hits it, but it can be startling. After I'm done I just give it a shove and push the headgear forward again. 

You won't hurt your plow by jacking it up with a floor jack to get it back on your truck. Just put the jack under the black frame and not a hydraulic ram and you basically can';t really hurt the thing.

Practice lingin the truck up and mounting/dismounting now while there's no snow on the ground and its not 7 degrees out...you'll be glad you did when it actually is that cold in a month or so.

The power plug on the truck has a little cover, thats pretty obvious...the headlight and hydraulic controller plugs are designed to plug together on the truckside. On the plow side, the two plugs with the female sockets go into the little rubber holder thats on the headgear, just by the driver's side headlight. The third wire just dangles...I drape mine over the other 2 so its always in the same place and there's zero risk of it getting squished when I put the plow back on when I'm in a hurry.


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## nepatsfan (Sep 16, 2004)

mayhem;1343154 said:


> - Drop the plow and put it in float.
> - Get out and put your weight on the piston to lower the triangle fully.
> - Drop the jackstand and give the headgear a little push to get the thing to the next hole in the stand. The longer the jack is extended, the easier it will be to put the plow back on.
> - Now that the stand is supporting the majority of the plow's weight, disconnect the electrical couplings.
> ...


on a mm1 tighten up the safety chain before you back up and the headgear wont fall back as much.


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## furstwinhall (Feb 1, 2009)

This is awesome feedback! Thanks to everyone who responded. Simply awesome.


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## nepatsfan (Sep 16, 2004)

furstwinhall;1343549 said:


> This is awesome feedback! Thanks to everyone who responded. Simply awesome.


This site isn't *all* jerks.....lol


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## watson524 (Apr 7, 2008)

Hi all,

Just wanted to ask one question about a step here:
- Get out and put your weight on the piston to lower the triangle fully.

We have a Fisher 7.5' on a 1999 Ram 1500. This step always gives my husband and I a problem (this was my dad's truck and he did all the plowing but he passed away in late 2007 so now I get the joy of plowing). We have the small "joystick" type box in the truck, with the on/off switch on the side and the 4 positions. I drive in to the garage, drop the plow, the joystick returns to the center "float" position and for some reason, it seems we really have to fight with the triangle to get it to "collapse". Are we missing something?

thanks!


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

When the plow is in float position I have to put all of my weight on the tip of the triangle in order to get it to go down. Remember that piston is designed to support a 600+ lb plow blade.


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## watson524 (Apr 7, 2008)

Ok well I'm glad it's not just me. Would it work better if I held the controlled in the "down" position while he pushed on the triangle I wonder?


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## Canplow (Dec 28, 2011)

A easy fix to cover your plugs is take a couple good zip-lock baggies put a hole in the bottom and zip-tie or tape it to the cable with the plug inside zip up the bag and its covered may have to change bag out a couple times but it works! I tap my pins out with a hammer and in sometimes just be careful helps to not have to fight the blade if only alittle bit off!


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

watson524;1425675 said:


> Ok well I'm glad it's not just me. Would it work better if I held the controlled in the "down" position while he pushed on the triangle I wonder?


Yes just to make sure it is actually in float. When plowing, if you drop the plow from full raised to float (so you can plow) does it drop fast or pretty slow? You can adjust this drop speed and it also makes it easier to collapse the triangle.

I always twist the chains in a criss cross style to pull the triangle down. Always seemed easier them trying to push down on it.

To the OP - there will be a time that the Minute Mount seems so simple and easy and all other plow mounts look Alien and overly difficult! LOL


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## watson524 (Apr 7, 2008)

It definitely drops fast. So if I hold the little lever on the control box all the way up, it'll go up and then when I let go, the plow stays there but the control goes back to center. Then when I hit down, it just drops down and the control goes back to center. I don't recall a way where I can go down little by little like you can by tapping the control up. It's just down.... 

The chains we don't do anything with. I know the instructions say when you mount it you should take the slack out of them but we don't and I don't recall my dad ever doing that but perhaps we should be?


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

I doubt you need to change anything. When you hit the down button, hold it down for a bit before dis-mounting the plow. It will ensure the plow is in float mode allowing you to get the triangle down.


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## watson524 (Apr 7, 2008)

Ok. But float itself is the center position right? That it springs back to on its own where the plow will allegedly ride up and down with the terrain? I say allegedly because I know it doesn't guarantee you won't dig in


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## birddseedd (Jul 12, 2010)

furstwinhall;1342666 said:


> So I just purchased a new to me 8.5' EZ V for my F350 V10. Plow is great, but I had to unhook it when I went to get the front springs swapped out on my truck, and a few questions came up...
> 
> 1) I've never unhooked a plow from a truck (just from a tractor) and I didn't really know what to do so I put the plow all the way down in float, pushed the cylinder down, then lowered the "jack" stand, and then forced the pins out of the plates. This seems to be an odd way to unhook (plow sort of "dropped" when I got the pins to release), should I put the jack stand down while the plow is still hooked up so it takes more of the weight?
> 
> ...


pack your connectors, BOTH truck and plow side with dielectric grease. all year round. i may start doing this on my trailer light hookup too.


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