# Actual question for BB..



## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

My tranny cooling line is starting leak ,other then replacing the whole line can I splice out the bad section and put in a temp. rubber replacement until I can get some down time for it?


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## iceyman (Mar 1, 2007)

just use some gumprsport


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## 06HD BOSS (Nov 28, 2005)

ever heard of duct tape duh


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

Those lines look fine to me...you sure you aren't leaking blinker fluid?


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

Camden;562100 said:


> Those lines look fine to me...you sure you aren't leaking blinker fluid?


Can't be just had it replaced at 100,000blinks ,


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Looking at the condition of that assembly you need a bit of "down time" to fix what's wrong with the whole truck. Rubber hose last's right to the point where you really need the truck. Ever had a radiator hose clamp rust out and fail?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

The king of Fluid Film has rust on his truck? Didn't suspect that was even a possibility. 

Sure you can cut out the rusty section (marked in photo) and replace it with *high pressure trans cooler hose* as a temp repair. But, if you go this route be sure to put a slight flare on the steel lines where your going to slip the rubber hose over or else no amount of hose clamping will prevent the fluid pressure from blowing the rubber hose off, usually at the most inopportune time.

A more permanent/much more reliable solution is to go ahead and cut it where I highlighted and instead of using rubber hose/clamps, use a new piece of steel line (brake line works well) and brass compression fittings. This assumes the line isn't too rusty right before it bends up to the rubber hose connection (where I indicated)...hard to tell in the pic, too much FF . It needs to be mostly rust free for the compression fittings to seal. If it's not excessive, a little sand paper will clean it up enough to insure a good seal.


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

rubber hose is the way too go...

Like BB said, put a small flare on it using a flaring tool - autozone $20

and get trans hose.... I would put 2 clamps on each side just to be safe....

My Aux. Trans cooler has rubber hose and clamps, with no problem, I also worked in a mechanic shop for 4 years part time,...how do u think they do trans flushes.....rubber hose


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## scottL (Dec 7, 2002)

I had this exact issue with the trans lines and brake lines running to the back axel. Once we cut we found the lines swollen from rust inside .... Had to cut much further on either side. Simple went to more dollars and time in a heart beat ( chevy tag line, get it  )


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

If you listen carefully, you can hear GV's truck rusting.


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

JD Dave;562511 said:


> If you listen carefully, you can hear GV's truck rusting.


Remember JD,my truck dribbled more snow off the sides of the plow then you plowed since you were born!

PS They don't call this area the rust belt for nothing!


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Hey, hey, now you two

Waite a sec,

so I can go get my fishing boots on...

It's going to get deep...

..









O.k. commence....


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Don't ever use a socket and ratchet to tighten any hose clamps. It's too easy to break the slots cut in the band. Then it fails later on._ No doubt double clamp_. 
Losing all your fluid / pressure will kill some transmissions. 
Hard line is much better. Buy a few different tubing benders and take your time. Take the old line off and recreate the bends. No crimps or severe 90 degree bends.
If the piece your using is too long, make a S bend in it to shorten it. That makes the final assembly easier since you can make minor adjustments to the length with the S bend.
Most part stores will have a box of adapters if you can't get the exact fittings that your vehicle takes. Not that FORD or G.M. would ever do that !


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

grandview;562541 said:


> Remember JD,my truck dribbled more snow off the sides of the plow then you plowed since you were born!


LOL - Nicely done


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## 06HD BOSS (Nov 28, 2005)

lets hear it GV. how are you fixing it?


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

Well here's the deal,I'm dropping it off at the dealer to replace all the lines.I gave the lines a good look over and I don't want to blow a line in the middle of a storm.:realmad:


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

grandview;562541 said:


> Remember JD,my truck dribbled more snow off the sides of the plow then you plowed since you were born!!


LOL. That saying sounds very familiar.


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

Update. The dealer replaced both lines ,total cost was 300 .


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## nicksplowing (Oct 5, 2005)

*you could have bought the parts gv and i woulda donated the labor........for a homemade pizza*..


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## 06HD BOSS (Nov 28, 2005)

nickplowing1972;564712 said:


> *you could have bought the parts gv and i woulda donated the labor........for a homemade pizza*..


ill keep you guys company for one of his homemade meatball grinders


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

grandview;564413 said:


> Update. The dealer replaced both lines ,total cost was 300 .


Not a bad price there GV, did you bribe them?


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

Here's a after picture.


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## 06HD BOSS (Nov 28, 2005)

grandview;566501 said:


> Here's a after picture.


WOW fluid film actually works!


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## grandview (Oct 9, 2005)

06HD BOSS;566504 said:


> WOW fluid film actually works!


Yes it did. Sprayed it on the lines and they stopped leaking and wiped them clean


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Looks good GV but you may want to think about changing those rusty hose clamps on the coolant hoses as well. Those spring style clamps love to rust and fall off...and you know what happens then.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

*Another question for B&B.*
I have a 2000 Malibu with the 3.1 V6 57k on it. I just put a new water pump, thermostat, blower resister and front brakes on it. The other day it started to sputter when I went over expansion joints on the highway. The forth time it died but restarted right away. Nothing is loose and all connections are tight. Any common problems with that engine, fuel or ignition that you know of that could cause this? I have not been able to reproduce it even before I checked everything. I hate intermittent problems!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yea Micki those intermittent problems are by far the toughest to diagnose by far. Sounds like you have the basics covered (wouldn't expect anything less :salute.

Couple somewhat common issues on these models that could cause your symptoms.

1) Map sensor. Have had them do the exact same things your experiencing due to a broken internal circuit. Not real common but it has happened.

2) Loose/corroded ground wire (s) on one of the bell housing bolts. Many grounds there that are know to cause intermittent problems as there tough to see/reach... so they seldom get attention.

3) The injector harness where it runs from the engine toward the body near the alternator. Pull the plastic loom off the harness and give the harness a good through look see.


Definitely sounds electrical related. I'd go over any connections possible and the PCM itself, giving each of them a couple taps with the end of a wooden hammer handle while the engine is running. Find many intermittent connection problems that way. Use the same technique on the Map sensor.

No specific TSB's for anything related to your symptoms that I can recall.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Being a long time Ford owner, I know all about intermittent problems!
Hopefully I cleaned and dielectric greased the right bad connection.
I found the main feed for the relay box was solid green with corrosion. All the grounds were done. 
My Wife was amazed it went 20K miles before the vehicle needed a penny put into it. Gotta love the access for changing the thermostat. Now I know why the crank case is cast iron. (jacking the engine to change belt)


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

MickiRig1;567462 said:


> I found the main feed for the relay box was solid green with corrosion.


 I'm gonna bet you got it right there.... being on the main power wire to the relay block would definitely cause a stall on bumps as theirs plenty of important things powered by that relay block.



MickiRig1;567462 said:


> My Wife was amazed it went 20K miles before the vehicle needed a penny put into it. Gotta love the access for changing the thermostat.


 Yes the 3.1's and 3.4's are a bit of a pain for a T-stat R&R... but no tougher than an E series van with a 460 right? :crying:


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I was looking at the thermostat's housing and thinking " There's a reason the back hold down bolt's hole is slotted" I used 3 wrench's each with it's points clocked at a different places. We all owe an Automotive engineer a punch to the head for how they design stuff !
Thank GOD for air tools.


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