# My Plow Restoration Project



## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

In order to prolong the life of and if I sell the truck increase the value I decided this summer to re-paint and restore my plow.

I am only doing this a couple of hours a day so far.

Below are the pictures to date. Tomorrow I am going to take the blade to a sandblasting shop.

























The toughest SOB nut & bolt so far!


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Some make it and some don't.









Spring eye-bolts did not make it.









Although the main bolts made it the SOB who put the one on the right on should be shot. The threads are flat and was the center bolt.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Spring*

All 4 springs look the same.

Before









All 4 were in this condition.









After. If you think I am going to pay or waste time cleaning and painting 
when I can buy new at 14 bucks each you are kidding me. I bought new. As I will the shock and all hardware.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Ready*

ready to load in the truck and take to sandblaster.

I spent at least 20 hours with a wire brush and paint remover wheel and still was not close to being done.

I was quoted $75 a hour @2.5 hours to sand blast it clean. 
So it is worth it to me to just have it done right and get the cracks clean enough for welding.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Cracks on blade*

Cracks found while taking it apart or during wire wheel.

Another reason I thought sand blasting would be best so they are clean to weld.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Results*

The results of the hardest hit I have ever took in a plow truck.

Parking block under 8 inches of snow going about 30.

Lifted the truck off the wheels in the back with a load
of 35 bags @ 50 pounds each.

In a couple of the shots I have the camera on the floor to show 
the bend in the end of the plow. Hopefully putting a new cutting edge on wont be to hard.

Where the tear is I hope to have it fixxed the same time I getthe cracks welded.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Cutting edge*

The cutting edge was new last year. It was a 8 inch one.

We had a record year up here and is the 1st time in 20 years of plowing I have used
one up in one season.
Probably the reason I could get all the bolts off with just my impact and not a torch.

Notice the tape and how much room I had left after it was bolted.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Tools used*

Tools used so far.









most of these with the exception of the air tools are more then 20 years old.
Take care of your tools and they will take care of you.


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## 06HD BOSS (Nov 28, 2005)

nice reaper! building / rebuilding plows is always a fun project. I agree with you about the new parts...why waste time and money when you can just buy brand new parts for nothing more than it would cost you to make them look new yourself. I cant wait to see the finished setup


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## Acutabovesiny (Aug 25, 2006)

I would love to see it after getting sand blasted.


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## stroker79 (Dec 2, 2006)

wow 5inches off the edge, crazy. i didnt use that much of my edge buy I have the new thick boss edge with curb guards. 

How old the plow? it looks like a fun project, how much do you anticipate it costing you at the end of it all?


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

The plow and truck are both 1998.

Total cost will be about $650.oo

In the end it will look new(er).

I'm afraid the bend is there to stay.

I am going to ask the blaster to call me when he is done before powder coating so I 
can get a picture.

I can not wait myself.


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## stroker79 (Dec 2, 2006)

not bad, definately alot cheaper then buying new. Should look great when you are done. My Dads newest plow is from 99 and im wondering about rebuilding it for him. Its getting pretty nasty.


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## Acutabovesiny (Aug 25, 2006)

Any updates?


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

I have been knocking the surface rust off the plow frame and have ordered the new hardware and cutting edge.

I am probably going to skin the front of it and decided to have the spray on bed liner applied instead of paint.

They offer a lifetime warranty and I can touch up spots that get chipped. Plus hopefully I wont have to do this again. They also offer colors so I can keep it red.

This is where I ordered the skin.

As far as the sandblasting. Well I called the mofo yesterday because he has not called yet and I was informed it would be done Tuesday probably Wednesday.

I was not happy as I was told it would only take a couple of days to start with only to find out after a week they have yet to even touch it. If the place I took it to was open today I would be there loading it back in the bed today. Shops that say one thing and do another do not deserve my money and if he had said 10 days or whatever before it would be one thing but I was told 2 days and it would be done.

But such is life and I now know when I do my other plow where not to take it to get the same treatment.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Well I finally got it back from the sandblaster. 

What a joke. If you ever need a sandblaster all I can say is make sure they actually do sandblasting and don't just have a ad in the yellow pages saying they do sandblasting.

He called a week ago telling me it was done come pick it up. I drive there to find out it was not even half done. I suspect he was drunk when he called but I wont for sure say. 

So after a small disagreement he said he would get to it that day. Well a week later he calls once again to say it is done.

I get there and all I can say is it still looked half done and now from him leaving it sit and doing the blasting whenever he felt like it where he had blasted started to get surface rust over the bare metal already. Again because he was leaving it sit with raw metal showing. 

He half ass fixed the welds and after seeing this guys work i wouldn't let him fix a lawn mower let alone ever work on anything I ever have again in the future. You can bet as well that when asked where I got work done after the plow is done he will be bad mouthed in the area by me. 

I offered him 100 bucks for the work he did and just got my blade out of there after him telling me once again if he had another week he could get it done better. This after having it almost 4 full weeks.

The following are pics before i prime it.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Only clean spots are where I wire wheeled before I took it in.









On the right side of photo you can see where
he started to repair a tear and just stopped leaving the crack as you see it.
















Surface rust out the door. Nice quality work.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Rust still layered in the corner








Crapy sloppy weld









More rust on the rib sides.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

This is the piece that holds the deflector down.

Pretty heavy surface rust all across it but it is still in good shape and the other side is in surprisingly good shape.

I bought some rust neutralizer to see how that stuff works. I will post more pics after I clean up the surface rust and prime the blade and treat this pc with the neutralizer.

















This is what I am using on it.


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## stroker79 (Dec 2, 2006)

WOW, I cant beleive someone would call that done! (Not you) That shop must not be very trustworthy. Are you going to get it blasted by another shop or work with what you got. That really sux,


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## R&R Yard Design (Dec 6, 2004)

Hey Reaper ive got i guy that will do sand blasting down by me, I got the whole plow and A frame blasted and primed for $100 My cell phone is 708 670 8504 call me if you want his info, he will also do any welding ashe does fab work talk to you later


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

I am just gonna work with what I got. 

I been out there all day with wire wheel and sand paper again getting the surface rust off it and took a hammer and knocked off what I could where it was layered in that corner. 

I used that neutralizer on it in those 2 spots and will see how it comes out.

I just finished washing it off to get it clean and when it drys will apply a coat of red primer.


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## wild bill (Feb 10, 2007)

*wow*

he must have been using silica sand i know it because i blasted a boss mount kit the powder coat when it sticks is very hard to take off with 150 psi and a pressure pot blaster with silica .he needed to use what i think they called black cat that stuff takes any thing off !!! i think your cat had the right idea after that project !


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## OldSchoolPSD (Oct 16, 2007)

Yeah volcanic sand. That stuff ain't no joke. 


That sandblast and welding job, however, is...


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## Wicked500R (Sep 6, 2007)

The stuff is called Black Beauty... I went through about 600#'s before I gave up on Fisher powdercoating and decided to chemically strip it 1st.


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## OldSchoolPSD (Oct 16, 2007)

I've done a few plowblades and never really had an issue using regular sand. IR 350 compressor with a 300lb pot, you guys are using smaller equipment I guess?


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

If the paint is on there that good, just paint over it. There is no benefit of taking it off unless it's rusty.


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## Avitare (Sep 22, 2007)

*Rust stop*

I tend to tackle my poly Boss plow every year and do some scraping wheeling
and hit will Rustoleom.
I found the hammered finish paints they have last year the they look good on a rough
surface
This year I found that they came out with a rust stopper primer that I have never seen
before

we just took my plow mount off one old truck and I scraped, chiselled and then sand
blasted ( about 150 #s of silica sand or $15). I was amazed how much rust flakes off
chiselling and chipping before the sand blasting. --lost a lot of steel.
Ready to remount on the newer old truck and used rust primer and 2 coats with extra 
drying time between. we will damage some mounting but way better than before.

Noticed the Locktite stop rust. Spray can?? What can you put over it ??\\

Look forward to watching your project.
tc


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## Wicked500R (Sep 6, 2007)

OldSchoolPSD;417168 said:


> I've done a few plowblades and never really had an issue using regular sand. IR 350 compressor with a 300lb pot, you guys are using smaller equipment I guess?


I was using an IR trailer compressor for jackhammers with a Lindsay 150 or 200# pot...


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Well it has been a arm wearing weekend.

Sanding washing spraying ,sanding washing spraying ,repeat.

That rust neturalizer worked great. I took a wire brush is all to the places i used that on.

Following the instructions on th ecan to th eletter this stuff is a wonder spray. I used it on the pivet arm of the plow as well and will use a black paint after I am finished with the whole thing.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

2 coats of red primer.

F-in which Boss raised the price on again this year per can.

These were taken after I rughed it up again and just got done washing it and am adding a 3rd coat of red primer.

I will be spraying at least 2 coats of white/gray starting today. Then I will spray the paint.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Hey Reaper, when you say washing, are you using water or wiping it down with thinners? It looks like you sre doing a good job. It works real well just blowing it off with air and then wiping it down with thinner.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

On those 2 coats I used a fine sandpaper. 
Then washed it with hot clean water.
Then I took a shop rag and barely got it damp with thiner and wiped it down just before i sprayed.

When I put the white/gray down I will use a steel wool pad after the first coat and then just a green 3m scrubby before the red paint.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

REAPER;417451 said:


> On those 2 coats I used a fine sandpaper.
> Then washed it with hot clean water.
> Then I took a shop rag and barely got it damp with thiner and wiped it down just before i sprayed.
> 
> When I put the white/gray down I will use a steel wool pad after the first coat and then just a green 3m scrubby before the red paint.


Sounds good, your a little fussier then me, but that's a good thing. We have so much crap to paint around here, so we try to do 2 or 3 things every year. I can't stand rusty stuff.


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## dlcs (Sep 2, 2004)

Guys if you got powder coating to remove. Your best bet is to find a powder coating shop and have them burn it off in their burn off oven. Makes life so much easier.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Progress*

Been real busy banking some hours at my other yob so has been slow going while working almost 70 hours a week.

I used JB Weld to fill in the holes that were punched in the front.

Not to bad and since I am going to skin it It is good enough.
One thing about that stuff although it works great is that it droops as it is setting.
If anyone uses it to fill in a gap I suggest checking the piece every 7 mins. or so to use a putty knife to smooth it back over as it hardens.

I applied primer as I went along to prevent the surface rust but after a grinding along the cutting edge surface to make sure that area would not be affected it was ready for the final coat of gray primer.

Below are the pictures to this point.

Oh and I finally got my parts in from the dealership.
I can not wait until Boss has their online "discussion" to ask about certain things pertaining to that.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

I cut a few nail heads off and inserted in the holes along the strapping for the second layer of JB Weld.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Ready for red.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Corners where holes were.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

IT'S ALIVE!

MY GOD IGOR IT'S ALIVE!

This is what 2 cans of BOSS Red will do.

































*SMOOoooth!*


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Corners after red.

I am only giving the front this one heavy coat because it is going to be skinned.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Presetting the skin because I wanted to see how square my blade was compared to how it should be.

Not very.

Also a picture of how I attached a tape with a line level to mark for drilling the holes.

9 Holes for the skin. Although the blade is 10 years old it is still pretty tough.

Good half inch drill with a cobalt bit took about 45 mins.

With a cigg err I mean allowing the drill to cool in between 4 and 5-9.

























One last of a complete back shot of what was left in the 2nd can.

I had to go back after the over spray settled to admire my wor eerrr I mean clean up.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

All I did with the frame is wire brush and sand papered the rust and treated it with the neutralizer. Then everything got a coat of flat black.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Big erector set.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Raised it up on the shoes to mount cutting edge.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Ready for the Snow!!! :salute:


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Cost

__________________________
$130 - Cutting edge
15 - Cutting edge bolt pack/10
50 - Shock
65 - Springs
15 - Blade Guides
27 - misc. Nuts n Bolts
12 - Spring eye-bolts
$20 - Il Tax
__________________________
$50 - primer
75 - Red Paint
$20 - Black Paint

__________________________
$250 - Lights @125ea. (last year)
$375 - Lower A-Frame (2 Years ago)
$75 - Hoses Last year.
$12 - 2 Dust caps for front 12V connection(1ea - 2 years running)
__________________________


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## iceyman (Mar 1, 2007)

for a grand total of...


looks really good reaper. how long it take?


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

iceyman;431221 said:


> for a grand total of...


$1191 for the costs listed in the last 2 years


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## BETHELSKIER (Feb 1, 2007)

*Plow Restoration*

That looks really good. Hopefully you will get some snow soon!


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

I started about September 20th.

I would have had it done sooner but waiting for parts and the idiot that did the sand blasting prolonged it.

As far as cost it is listed above.

I would have had to buy the cutting edge and bolts either way and the shock was completely shot as well and needed replacing.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

BETHELSKIER;431393 said:


> That looks really good. Hopefully you will get some snow soon!


Been doing the snow dance since midnight today since is when our contracts kick in.

Still have to hook up my salter on the truck but that is only a half hour job.

Loading the salt on the truck is another story.


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## PlowOrDie (Oct 26, 2007)

looks great...

sucks that the sandblaster did a horrible job...

you made it look good though... should be able to get all of youre money back when/if you sell it


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## iceyman (Mar 1, 2007)

PlowOrDie;431667 said:


> looks great...
> 
> sucks that the sandblaster did a horrible job...
> 
> you made it look good though... should be able to get all of youre money back when/if you sell it


or when you get to plow with it payup


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

iceyman;431672 said:


> or when you get to plow with it payup


Amen to that. payup payup payup

I will say tho that now would be the time to sell it for top dollar. 
Maybe next season as I am looking to sell the whole truck and salter/plow set-up together combined with selling my other plow truck to buy a newer set-up for myself.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

*Update:*

2 seasons running hard and had to do some minor work on it. I must say tho that the last 2 seasons we have had record snow fall and it got used hard every storm.

I will just explain the order of pics here and then post em.

1st pics are front and how it looks before I started. Only putting one heavy coat on the front and not skinning it like I was going to I think is why I am now doing the front again.

If you look at the wear it is almost a exact straight line across the upper part of the blade. The line matches perfectly to the line of the rubber deflector when it hangs while driving. Looking at it I wonder if crap from the road affected th paint as well because behind the flap is not worn as much and like I said I pushed tons of snow and had it rolling off the deflector many times.

I sanded it, cleaned it and then used the Duplicolor truck bed spray liner from NAPA on it. Cheaper then BOSS red paint and hopefully will last longer. It hides the dents well I will say that.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)




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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

The bungee cords were just holding the deflector up out of the way. 
As you can see the back has hardly any wear at all and is still looking good after 2 years of use.


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## goatboy1 (Nov 8, 2009)

*plow restoration*



REAPER;406932 said:


> In order to prolong the life of and if I sell the truck increase the value I decided this summer to re-paint and restore my plow.
> 
> I am only doing this a couple of hours a day so far.
> 
> ...


I'm really impressed by the amount of corossion on your plow...then again I live on the west coast of canada,where snow falls once or twice a winter with little or no salt beeing spread.How ever , being completely unexpierienced compared to a guy like you, i had to start somewhere and am now purchasing a Arctic straight eight foot poly board .The plow frame , lift and under carriage are galvanized (no paint).My question to you is...have I made the right decission or not.One thing is for sure, I would not be able to do repairs myself the way you do.


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## c.schulz (Dec 21, 2004)

Looks good. Aint rust a *****!! I did a similar resto on my old Western a few years back. One thing that helped me was that I took it to paint stripping company. Heat and chemical strip really did the trick. They did the plow and all frame work for $150. And then they seal it to stop surface rust. Then I purchased zinc chromate and prime and a good hard paint and it held up for quite a while.

Chris


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

goatboy1;862328 said:


> I'm really impressed by the amount of corossion on your plow...then again I live on the west coast of canada,where snow falls once or twice a winter with little or no salt beeing spread.How ever , being completely unexpierienced compared to a guy like you, i had to start somewhere and am now purchasing a Arctic straight eight foot poly board .The plow frame , lift and under carriage are galvanized (no paint).My question to you is...have I made the right decission or not.One thing is for sure, I would not be able to do repairs myself the way you do.


Although I believe I make half or more of my hours salting alone, you are lucky not to have to deal with it like we do. That is the plow. Imagine the vehicles around here.

Only you will know if you made the right choice after you have been doing it a few times. I would for sure paint the frame and mount if it was bare. No matter the salt it saw just the elements would start erosion without any protection I would think. Maybe coat it with some Pam or Fluid Film every 4 or 5 plows.


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

c.schulz;862510 said:


> Looks good. Aint rust a *****!! I did a similar resto on my old Western a few years back. One thing that helped me was that I took it to paint stripping company. Heat and chemical strip really did the trick. They did the plow and all frame work for $150. And then they seal it to stop surface rust. Then I purchased zinc chromate and prime and a good hard paint and it held up for quite a while.
> 
> Chris


Looks damn good still. ussmileyflag

I use to have a 1988 GMC as my back-up truck with a Western Pro plow and it didn't look half as nice as that one.
I wish I knew then what I know now about getting the paint off. Since then I have also located a place that powder coats and removes paint off things like this. I am in the process of thinking about replacing the blade with another this year and may already have a buyer for the blade in the pictures above. Am hoping I never have to do this again to another plow but it worked out pretty good. A lot better if I had just left it anyway.
Plus it gave me some experience in doing one other thing so at least I can talk like I know a little something about doing a restoration on a plow blade.


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## WeDoSnowplowing (Nov 9, 2009)

That does look good.


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## goatboy1 (Nov 8, 2009)

REAPER;431190 said:


> Ready for the Snow!!! :salute:
> 
> View attachment 28069
> 
> ...


now here 's a men who loves his job....great work and congratulations...


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## WeDoSnowplowing (Nov 9, 2009)

Ok I see The runner or shoes. The stickers. Not sure how cut edge looks.


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