# 05 F250 bed mount supports rusty HELP



## ScubaSteve728

*05 F250 bed mount supports rusted out HELP*

well i bought this truck kinda knowing there may be a aftermarket bed on it along with a macco paint job. however it is not very rusty elsewhere ie the frame and body panels are solid. just here in the front beam that lays on the frame closest to the cab they are rusting and it seems like the front of the bed is loose and shaking a wee bit. how can i fix this? do i need to pull the bed and replace all of them or what. i was thinking of having some angle iron welded to it or sliding a piece of 2 inch square tubing in as far as it would go on either side to beef it up. the other beams are not too bad and will last long enough for me just this front one passenger and driver side are pretty bad cracked and very soft and flakey.


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## ScubaSteve728

somebody help me please storms a coming i shoud be okay for the storm but i want to fix it for the spring


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## SalNazzaro

my 08 f350 had this starting, all my fords have done it. I would always keep a coat of paint on them, wish there was a way to prevent it!


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## Morrissey snow removal

pull off the bed and make new ones weld them in or have someone bend some up for u


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## ScubaSteve728

is it hard to pull the bed off?


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## peteo1

4 bolts and the filler tube and lights. That's about it. Spray the bed bolts real good with penetrating oil, they're usually a little stiff.


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## gtmustang00

After fixing it keep the truck oil'd. Will soak into the rust and prevent it from happening again.


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## ScubaSteve728

Yes i plan on getting it fluid filmed in the spring and fall


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## shovelracer

The bolts are a special bit. You can use a very high quality torx bit, but do not be surprised if it is locked up. Personally the first time I did it I found it easier to go on ebay and get a take off set for like $50. The bolts are self tapping so they never are the same as that first time, but if you take care of them they will come off each year with minimal resistance. The fuel filler is 3 small screws and the wiring there are 2 plugs to disconnect up above the trailer hitch. No need to remove the lights. Ford beds are super thin so 2 guys can lift by hand. 

This happens all the time. I've seen much worse on the road.


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## ScubaSteve728

could it be temporarily fixed with some angle steel on each side ?


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## TJS

Good luck getting those bolts out. I broke 2 of them and had to plasma cut the heads off of the other ones to get them out. Get ready for the surface rust on the frame. See my flat bed dump bed build and you will see pics of the bed coming off. Good luck.
T.J.


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## ScubaSteve728

the frame on the truck is not rusty at all really just these beams


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## Too Stroked

gtmustang00;1615516 said:


> After fixing it keep the truck oil'd. Will soak into the rust and prevent it from happening again.


Unfortunately, soaking rust in oil or even Fluid Film will not actually stop the rust once its started. It may slow it down a bit, but that's about all you can hope for. The only way to really fix that is to cut the section out and replace it with fresh metal. Then your challenge becomes how to apply a finish to that new metal that will actually prevent rust from starting again. That's tough because its virtually impossible to access _all _surfaces. (Ford uses electrodeposition primer to do that a the factory.)

We had one that was actually far worse than that and we ended up replacing the entire box / bed.


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## shovelracer

If you keep it lubed you can get a few more years out of it. Each beam is a different depth so it's not as easy as picking up a piece of tubing at the metal yard. This is one thing I do not like about fords over the flat chevy rails. Makes bed fab more of a headache. The easiest way to get the bed off is to torch or grind the bolt heads off and then when the bed is off you can cut them out easy. That is a great time to clean and paint everything behind the cab. I haven't found a replacement bed floor with beams available, but if one existed I would buy one. My 04 bed sides are perfect, but the floor and beams are shot as well. My summer project will be a flat bed otherwise.


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## shovelracer

If you do take the bed off plan on dropping the tank and putting in new rear brake lines. They tend to rot out in between the frame and tank where you'll never see it otherwise. You do not need to drop the tank to do that, but the straps also rust through and you have an opportunity to make a lasting protection to the rear of the truck frame.


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## framer1901

First and foremost - you aren't getting those bed bolts out, at least not using the torx bit, maybe if you are lucky you will be able to weld a nut to them and break them loose with a bar.

The rusted section you show, just replace that section, only take those two bolts out, don't take the whole bed off.

Cut the rusted area and bolt out with a sawzall. Measure how long and tall of a piece you need to put back in there. Get a chunk of aluminum and cut it down to the size you need, drill the holes, get two new bed bolts and bolt the thing back together.

It's not that big of a deal really.


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## ScubaSteve728

Well I finally found a new bed to put on my truck seeing that the other one looks like a cheese grader. And here are some other rust pics


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## ScubaSteve728

I can put my finger through my cab corner. Gonna get it repaired and painted in the spring when I can pull the bed off and put the new 2013 bed on


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## oldmankent

I just had all my cross members replaced last summer. I ended up ordering a new bed bottom and they cut off the new cross members and replacing them. Now my passenger wheel well is rusting through. After this truck flatbeds from here on out. I can't stand the rust.


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## ScubaSteve728

I hate it as well just bought brand new bed for 2500$ and i could have had an aluminum flatbed made for the same or less depending on the options i wanted.


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## ScubaSteve728

*New bed on my 250*

Got the bed painted up and the bed liner sprayed in and all in all did not come out too bad. Still need to clean up the outside of the cab in a few spots.... thinking of painting the cab to match the bed better, because the paint is quite faded and almost looks blueish and there are a good amount of spots where the clear is peeling and flaking off


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## rds390

http://m.ebay.com/itm/131296108690?nav=SEARCH

Check out this eBay listing I have the same problem with my 2005 f250 I hope this will help out more I have been looking all over for a fix to this and everyone is just saying to put square tubing in it I wanted to do this the right way


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## tjctransport

rds390;1847354 said:


> http://m.ebay.com/itm/131296108690?nav=SEARCH
> 
> Check out this eBay listing I have the same problem with my 2005 f250 I hope this will help out more I have been looking all over for a fix to this and everyone is just saying to put square tubing in it I wanted to do this the right way


$600!!! ARE YOU SERIOUS????

then you still have to pay someone to cut the old ones out, weld the new ones in, and repaint the bottom of the bed. 
you can buy a new takeoff bed for less than it will cost to buy and put them in


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## Antlerart06

ScubaSteve728;1834019 said:


> Got the bed painted up and the bed liner sprayed in and all in all did not come out too bad. Still need to clean up the outside of the cab in a few spots.... thinking of painting the cab to match the bed better, because the paint is quite faded and almost looks blueish and there are a good amount of spots where the clear is peeling and flaking off


well fix now till happens again I would put a Steel flat bed on would been cheaper 
I have all flatbeds on my work trucks easier to clean the salt off


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## rds390

tjctransport;1847528 said:


> $600!!! ARE YOU SERIOUS????
> 
> then you still have to pay someone to cut the old ones out, weld the new ones in, and repaint the bottom of the bed.
> you can buy a new takeoff bed for less than it will cost to buy and put them in


I have a short bed they are hard to come by I had a 2002 f250 I got rear ended and the body shop had to have a bed shipped out of Texas and paint labor was like 6000.00 state fram picked up that bill and that bed the floor was rusted through

I went to a welding shop around here and asked about getting this one replace on my 2005 f250 they said 600.00 just for that front support and I had to pull the bed and drop it off to them

To me it's worth it if I already have to pull the bed if I order these I can weld them on myself and just undercoat it before it goes back on the truck I just don't have the shop to do all of the metal bending


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## Lone136

I had to change my bed on my f350 this year, but I was in luck that I have a friend that brings beds from Texas and resales them here in Pa. Some have a small dent or two, but for the price and NO RUST the 1,200 I paid him was fine. 
AS for the rust on the farm I cleaned it up and put PRO15 in the frame and used rust free on the bottom of the bed before I installed it. Also the bolts had to be cut off. I wait to ford and got new ones and all is well now. 
I think he has 3 beds now 2 long beds and one short. I,m glad I didn't get a short bed. They are over priced in my book


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## rds390

Lone136;1847622 said:


> I had to change my bed on my f350 this year, but I was in luck that I have a friend that brings beds from Texas and resales them here in Pa. Some have a small dent or two, but for the price and NO RUST the 1,200 I paid him was fine.
> AS for the rust on the farm I cleaned it up and put PRO15 in the frame and used rust free on the bottom of the bed before I installed it. Also the bolts had to be cut off. I wait to ford and got new ones and all is well now.
> I think he has 3 beds now 2 long beds and one short. I,m glad I didn't get a short bed. They are over priced in my book


Short beds are a joke yes they are over priced but think about it every roach coach is a long bed they pull off a new bbed shove it some where and sell them short bed are harder to come by and when you find one the price will kill you if it weren't for the fact that the bed on my truck didn't look like new I'd just go with a flat bed but my bed is in amazing shape with the exception of the cRoss supports


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## ScubaSteve728

I am 3700 into my new bed
1500 for paint and spray in bed liner and i got a great deal on the paint job and my buddy gave me a break on labor cost
and 2500 for the actual bed itself

in hindsight i should have went with a aluminum flatbed which would have been much cheaper even though they look stupid on single rear wheel short beds


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## Lone136

I still need to get the bed liner sprayed in. I called around about prices and it was 650.00 thats with uv in the liner


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## tjctransport

i bought a perfect shape short bed out of junk yard in staten island for $1200, and it was even the same color as my truck.


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## Antlerart06

ScubaSteve728;1847687 said:


> I am 3700 into my new bed
> 1500 for paint and spray in bed liner and i got a great deal on the paint job and my buddy gave me a break on labor cost
> and 2500 for the actual bed itself
> 
> in hindsight i should have went with a aluminum flatbed which would have been much cheaper even though they look stupid on single rear wheel short beds


Most beds does look stupid on short bed truck But I think the skirted flat beds look good 
My dump bed just the bed was 3700 + the hoist total was 6700 that's a 8ft x 9.5' bed on my chassis

My wife's truck is a F250 crew cab short box its getting to point it needs a bed I thought putting on a Steel Skirted flatbed on it I price one at $2200.00


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