# how many miles on a set of u joints 3rd gen guys



## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

hey all my 07 just went in for a bad u joint in the front only 27,000 miles. dealer covered it under warranty no problem but only will replace the side thats bad, should i do the other side too or maybe i got a [email protected]#t u joint to start with. should i pan on doing these things every 2 years, just looking to see how many miles you guys are getting on a set:waving:


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## Dodge Plow Pwr (Dec 7, 2007)

I have an 05 with 76k and they just replaced both front axle u-joints and a new front drive shaft in since January. I just got it back yesterday after they replaced the rear joints again for the 8th. time in 4 years. I had a vibration that was so bad the actually put in a new rear drive shaft as well because the balance of the old shaft was aweful. Get ready to do the other side soon and be willing to continually be changing them all the freaking time.payup


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

thats what i figured, i found a set of torque king u joints that are greasable, im going to buy a set. the problem seems to be is that they run out of lube and their spining dry and you no the rest im sure. quad 4x4.com has a bunch of parts for these u joint eaters:realmad:


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

I replaced the ball joints on my Dodges several times before I wised up and began using Moog joints instead of the OEM ones that Dodge recommended. 

Moog joints have grease zerks and the other ones don't. Just hit them with a little grease every time you change your oil and you should be good to go.


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## bltp203 (Nov 5, 2006)

Moog is the best, no doubt and the most expensive...........I replaced mine with a set of greasable ones from Napa. If I remember right, they ran about half of the Moog joints and I havent had any problems since.


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## dmontgomery (Oct 3, 2003)

I just had the rears and the drive shaft replaced under warranty, 63,000 miles.......I read an article recently that stated that replacing with greasible u joints was a mistake because they are hollow, hence weaker... I take it that ya'll disagree with that....


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

dmontgomery;782274 said:


> I take it that ya'll disagree with that....


Yep, I disagree. I figure I've saved myself at least one set of joints just by switching to the ones that can be greased.


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## dmontgomery (Oct 3, 2003)

that is why I like this site.......real world experience........thanks


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

119,000 on front bearings and joints. The rear shaft joints were replaced at around 80,000.


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## NLS1 (Jun 25, 2007)

40k on ujoints and ball joints
replaced with high end greasable, should be good for a long time now


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## SpruceLandscape (Sep 12, 2006)

mine were replaced under warranty within the first 25K. I'll keep taking it back in for warranty replacement till I hit 100K, then I'll switch to the moog


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## AiRhed (Dec 27, 2007)

> I replaced the ball joints on my Dodges several times before I wised up and began using Moog joints instead of the OEM ones that Dodge recommended.
> 
> Moog joints have grease zerks and the other ones don't. Just hit them with a little grease every time you change your oil and you should be good to go


That's sound advice from camden. While you're at it, switch to a Moly grease as well. Moly grease is similar to graphite and is GREAT for ball joints, tie rod ends, track bars, etc. Try a grease like one offered from MYSTIC. Make sure you or whoever does the replacement pumps a healthy dose of grease into all New Joints after or before install. I'm amazed at how many shops think the factory grease is enough.

Moog joints/track bars usually have lifetime warranty's. If you buy a Moog product it's usually the last one you'll "BUY" not necessarily the last one you'll replace. Every joint on your truck should be greasable, and not replaced with OEM crap. It's ridiculous to expect a Ball joint to last under the pressures and repetitive motion involved with plowing WITHOUT being greased consistently. A good practice would be to grease your joints after every plowable storm.

The aftermarkets lively hood is based on addressing the problems/weaknesses of factory equipment/parts. I'd say the minute that warranty is up, switch to MOOG or an equivalent everywhere.

Just my buck O'five


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## nexcorp (Sep 28, 2009)

Grease each storm makes sense. Just like nay other piece of heavy duty equipment they recommend grease every day of use.


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## exmark1 (Nov 30, 2005)

Maybe I got lucky then... my 2003 made it to 88,000 on all original u-joints. It cost me $2000.00 for all new ball joints and u-joints at that time though


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## RacingZR (Nov 14, 2009)

Just picked up an 03 2500 myself with 106K on it. Never been plowed though, bought the truck in FL. Had my brother's mechanic look it over said it was pretty solid. None the less, knwoing the front end are a weak link on the Dodges, I priced out some parts. Looked to me like someone could rebuild the front end themselves with all Moog parts for about $1000. Not that a grand is chump change but........


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

im not sure i would put moogs in my truck, ive been hearing alot of bad things about them seems like there quality control went down and alot of people are having trouble with them causing horrible steering wander. i just ordered a set of xrf ball joints that are greasable for $220 shipped. anybody have good luck with precision u joints that are greaseable?


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

It pays to look on the box and see where the part is made. Chin& made parts need to stay one the shelf with these trucks. I have a friend who owns a repair shop and has has sooo many issues with brand name new parts. Usually with rear drums, the metal is made so poorly it can't take the heating cooling cycles and warps. Personally any greasable universal is better than the factory non servicable junk!!!


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## JohnnyU (Nov 21, 2002)

96K miles on all original parts. I just recently replaced my steering linkage (greasable MOOG parts) one week before I found the "new" Mopar steering linkage upgrade. (Click here)

I'll be replacing ball joint and axle u-joints this spring. I bought Raybestos greaseable balljoints, and am still in search of a set of greasable u-joints. When I built my Chevy, I used all greasable joints. In all my experience in wheeling, my u-joint failures have been caused by contamination and drying out of the joints. I keep everything greased and see nice long component life, despite the adverse conditions they see.


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## NickColetti (Dec 2, 2009)

I have an 05 2500 and i just replaced mine at 40k. 

Its actually super common for the factory ones to go around this time.

The greasable ones are what i replaced the factory ones with, im hoping for the best!!


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## rjnjr1019 (Nov 18, 2008)

65000 still have all org and org brakes on my 05 quad 4x4


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## NickColetti (Dec 2, 2009)

Manual or auto?


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## RacingZR (Nov 14, 2009)

I just picked up my 2003 Ram 2500 Quad today. There is a vibration in the driveline. Front end is tight, I am assuming it's a u-joint or two??? What do you guys think?? Vibration is on and off, when under power there is no vibration, it is mostly noticeable while "cruising" or decelerating?? Ground was too wet to crawl and look under there today, wondering if I am looking in the right spot. Driveshaft looks fine.


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

i would say that vibration would be a u- joint in the rear driveshaft. when the fronts go you can feel the wheel shimmy after taking a sharp turn.


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## RacingZR (Nov 14, 2009)

We'll look into it, I'm not too upset about it. I knew about some common Dodge issues when I bought the truck. I'll replace all the u-joints I need to as long as the driveshafts are okay! Definitely no front end shimmy, that feels very tight at the wheel and we have some goodroads to test that here in Maine.


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## Kevin58145 (Nov 30, 2009)

My ram has 62000 miles and the dealer has put 2 ujoints in the rear one at about 27000 and the other at 55000.


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