# repainting an old Fisher



## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Ready to repaint my old Fisher I bought used. Still lots of paint on it, but lots of rust, too. Probably a good 10-15 years old (I've had it for 5).

What kind of primer and topcoat will hold up? I noticed on a new pushbeam I bought from Fisher that the factory paint was peeling like crazy after only a season. Thinking I don't want to use the paint Fisher sells (although maybe they just did lousy prep. at the factory).

What brand will really hold up? I used to paint houses and always went with the best product and tried to do meticulous prep. work. Would rather take the time and spend the money to do it right and have it last ten years (with annual touchup) than do something quick and dirty and have to repaint in 5.

Am thinking I will brush and roll rather than spray.

p.s.: how do you remove rust from those springs? thinking they almost would need to be dipped somehow...


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## mc1 (Mar 2, 2007)

i would dissasemble the blade and push plate and sandblast the whole thing when you do this the surface should be smooth then just paint with a rust inhibiting primer and go to town i would not brush it on it will look like crap if you dont at least get rid of the rust on the blade snow will stick to it all winter long. extra weight = more abuse to your rig


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Sand blasting is the best, but we wire wheel most of the time. The wire wheel is a dirty job but if you spend the time it will come out good. Wipe it down with thinners 2 or 3 times, then your ready for paint. You can't roll or brush the real good enamel paint but a good rust primer and paint will do. We bought a gravity feed HVLP gun for $50 a couple years ago and the expensive primer and enamel with hardener seem to stand up alot better. I am by no means an expert painter, we just try to fill in time around the farm painting stuff, The hardener when added to the paint really seems to make it shine and last alot longer. Your right about the prep work being the most important part.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

I agree with JD Dave only I rolled my paint and rust primer. It came out really well and lasted very nicely with the Fisher paint. It is a good quality paint. This is what it still looked like after a long season. Most of my driveways were gravel and dirt too.


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

Nice looking plow there, First. Corners on the cutting edge are wearing pretty good though!


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

*edg*

Thanks for the replies. Here's a shot of the blade, base angle, and cutting edge. Everything is disassembled (don't think that has happened EVER with this plow).










I was thinking the wire brush attachment on my angle grinder would get things down to shiny metal fairly quickly (although as you say probably a nasty job).

My only concern was getting the rust out of some of the corners and hard-to-reach places.

What about the trip springs? Seems like they would need to be dipped in something to remove rust.

What specific primers have you had good luck with? Needs to be self-etching?

Also, one of my angle cylinders is leaking. How much of a project is it to dissassemble and repack? Or am I better off just replacing? Think a pair of new ones runs $160 or so.

Thanks for all your helpful advice.


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

YardMedic;404207 said:


> Nice looking plow there, First. Corners on the cutting edge are wearing pretty good though!


Yeah, it was a long season. My gravel driveway is about 1/4 of a mile one way with a long circle, another 500' gravel driveway, and a 15 car parking lot. Add on my driveways and one commercial lot and it was a lot of plowing for that truck which handled it perfectly. I only plowed one season with it before I sold it to upgrade.


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## Wicked500R (Sep 6, 2007)

This is my 8' Fisher after about 1200 pounds of blasting abrasive and the front side is NOT done. The Fisher powder coat is extremely strong and wont come off sandblasting! But it cracks me up because it pops and flakes.. I would think a wire wheel would barely scratch the surface of the coating. My plan is to burn it off with a Oxy/ Acetylene setup. And then finish blast it after I get the powdercoat off. Then I will use a red oxide metal primer. Large flat spots rolled with a 4" roller and the nooks and crannies will be sprayed. Top coated with I dunno what yet. If you look close at my base angle...it is worn down to far from previous owner and needs to be replaced..525.00 from my Fisher dealer..He has it in stock. Yours looks good! I will be installing all new trip springs,pins, bolts, etc. and that damn base angle! She should be like brandy new when done....


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

I've started stripping paint off various parts (started with the small stuff first!). To their credit, a lot of the Fisher paint is on there pretty good. But the stripper takes it off with a couple applications.

One question, though: when I bought the plow used 5 years ago (it's from the early/mid nineties), the lift arm had no grab hook (I improvised a bolt with a quick-release mechanism). As long as I'm repairing everything I want to have a new hook welded on there. What exactly did they use, and how was it configured? Can somebody take a photo of theirs?

Also, it looks like Fisher is now using a new set-up to hold the chain. How does that work, and what would you recommend?

Thanks.


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

What are you using for a stripper? Is your plow powder coated or painted, i'm not sure when they started powder coating. I am doing basically the same thing as you are, just mine is a MM1 and everything on it is completely taken apart, long process but fun!


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## repo_man62 (Oct 24, 2004)

Wicked500R;
This is my 8' Fisher after about 1200 pounds of blasting abrasive:eek: and the front side is NOT done. The Fisher powder coat is extremely strong and wont come off sandblasting! But it cracks me up because it pops and flakes.. I would think a wire wheel would barely scratch the surface of the coating. My plan is to burn it off with a Oxy/ Acetylene setup. And then finish blast it after I get the powdercoat off. Then I will use a red oxide metal primer. Large flat spots rolled with a 4" roller and the nooks and crannies will be sprayed. Top coated with I dunno what yet. If you look close at my base angle...it is worn down to far from previous owner and needs to be replaced..525.00:eek: from my Fisher dealer..He has it in stock. Yours looks good! I will be installing all new trip springs said:


> I WOULD NOT put heat to it! That will break down the integrity of the metal.


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## Wicked500R (Sep 6, 2007)

I did not use the torches..I ended up stripping the powdercoat off with Permatex Gasket remover! Worked awesome and quick !!


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## dzrick (Aug 22, 2007)

Could you tell me how much of this Permatex gasket remover did it take?

Where did you get it and how is it sold? quarts, gallons?

I need to do something with the old plow I just got.

I got a quote of $750 to blast and paint it but I'd like other options.

Thanks,
Rick


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## repo_man62 (Oct 24, 2004)

dzrick;410162 said:


> Could you tell me how much of this Permatex gasket remover did it take?
> 
> Where did you get it and how is it sold? quarts, gallons?
> 
> ...


Gasket Remover PERMATEX® Gasket Remover

Quickly removes even baked-on gaskets and all types of gasketing adhesives and sealants. Removes gaskets from any type of assembly in 10 to 12 minutes. Prepares metal parts for new gasket maker and assembly. Reduces scraping and sanding. Prevents damage to flanges. Level 2

Suggested Applications:
Removes silicone, weatherstrip adhesive, dried oil, grease and paint
Prod 80646

Applications Of This Product

* Removes Gaskets in 10-12 minutes.

Related Products

* More Permatex® Products

Quantity Product Code Name Size Price 
P80646 PERMATEX® Gasket Remover Aerosol 16oz $5.02


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## dzrick (Aug 22, 2007)

Well, that was quick!

Thanks Repo.

Rick


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## Wicked500R (Sep 6, 2007)

Make sure you get the new and improved foaming action ! It works a ton better. I used 5 cans to do my 8' Fisher. Let it soak for 5-10 minutes, then scrape it with a spackel knife.. It comes right off..


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Where can you get that stuff? I'm VERY interested! And will it work on paint too?


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## repo_man62 (Oct 24, 2004)

mcwlandscaping;410226 said:


> Where can you get that stuff? I'm VERY interested! And will it work on paint too?


Ace hardware has it.


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

mcwlandscaping;410094 said:


> What are you using for a stripper? Is your plow powder coated or painted, i'm not sure when they started powder coating. I am doing basically the same thing as you are, just mine is a MM1 and everything on it is completely taken apart, long process but fun!


I'm using something made by Zip-Strip called "Bare-Z-All" (http://www.starbronze.com/701.html.

Working OK, sometimes it takes a second application to get everything, and I will need to go back over it with a wire brush or abrasive pad on my angle grinder. But gets down to bare metal pretty quickly. In some places it looks like the previous owner put on another layer of paint, so that may be slowing me down a bit.

I don't think this is powder coated, but not sure. I haven't done much on the blade yet, started with the smaller stuff first to see how it works.

Next step once the paint is all off will be to see about cleaning up the rust spots. May need to use a rust-blocking primer on some areas--anybody have experience with this?


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Got most of it stripped, wire brushed, and washed. Sandblasting would've been nice, for sure, but didn't have a lot of spare cash for this project. Here's one of the pushplates before getting cleaned up--pretty nasty:








And here's some of the pieces after the strip/brush/wash routine:


















The stripping went really hard--that paint was really bonded well (in fact, in retrospect I probably should've just left most of the paint on after removing any loose stuff, rather than spending hours fighting the paint off).

I was told by a pro car painter that "for the money" Rustoleum will do a decent job and am leaning toward that. The local Fisher dealer uses some Sherwin Williams stuff called Corathane pre primer (a rust inhibitor) followed by a primer and an enamel topcoat, haven't priced it out yet. Anybody on here have any experience with Rustoleum? Will their "rusty metal primer" keep the rust in check? I realize it's not going to be a showroom finish or anything, but all I'm looking to do is keep the blade smooth and slick so no snow sticks to it, preserve the metal from pitting and thinning, and keep it looking somewhat well-maintained.

Now if only I can get a warm day to get the primer on...no heated garage to work in! Would it surprise you if I said I had planned to take care of all this in the summer?

p.s. the pins are looking a bit worn but are maybe still serviceable:








I tried to get replacements at the dealer but they didn't seem to have any (I know, hard to believe). Anywhere on line I can get these? Or do you think I should just clean them up and reuse?


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## gary snow (Oct 26, 2005)

*rust removal*

for rust removal try naval gelly,its in canadian tire stores and works well.the navy made it i belirve ,hence naval gelly.its in a pink bottle.


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Thanks for the tip on the naval jelly.

I'm wavering on paint choices. If I want to go whole hog and spend a bunch, I would do the Sherwin Williams preprime (Corothane I PrePrime), prime (Kem bond HS primer), topcoat twice (Quick-Dry enamel). I haven't actually priced those products out yet but know they will cost. Plus my Fisher dealer, who suggested those, said be careful not to spray the Corothane as people have literally passed out doing that. Sounds like some nasty stuff!

A local auto painter guy told me Rustoleum "ain't bad for the price" which I take to mean if you prep. thoroughly and apply carefully it'll do the job. I'm kind of leaning in that direction. Anybody have experience with Rustoleum?

I also have a couple cans of Fisher paint and was thinking maybe I should get some more of that and go that route. Anybody know who manufactures their paint? What do they use for a primer?


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## Zippy (Oct 20, 2006)

I did the Fisher (9') on my old truck with a wire brush and rustoleum. It worked out really well and held up great.

Kevin


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Zippy;433647 said:


> I did the Fisher (9') on my old truck with a wire brush and rustoleum. It worked out really well and held up great.
> 
> Kevin


Thanks for the feedback. I actually started down the Rustoleum road this week after reading a bunch of really interesting threads on various forums about guys who painted their vehicles with it (some of these looked really, really good and were holding up well).

I spot primed the rusted spots with the rusty metal primer yesterday, then will coat everything with the clean metal primer. Followed by 2 coats of the gloss enamel. Think it should be fine--sandblasting would've been ideal as far as prep, but I got the surface pretty well prepped (the inside of the A-frame has some some oily residue left from leaking ATF, I cleaned it as best I could but I still saw some of that rainbow sheen on the final rinse).

How long did you wait between coats? I'm afraid I don't have a heated workspace (out of the elements at least), so it will take extra time for the stuff to cure. How long did it take for the enamel to harden up? I'm a little concerned about that--I'm guessing in the cold weather it may take several weeks.


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

I've had lots of experience with re-doing plows..

Fisher started using powdercoating around 1995 and yes it is a B!tCH to get off! I have a local commercial blaster that typically will blast any 8' or less disassembled blade for $200 or less, powdercoated or not, I also have him do 15-20 plows per year all cash transactions. The push plates and lift frames run me extra . The key is to not be in a rush, break'em apart to make it easier and of course cash payments. 1200lbs of sand seams like a lot, my blaster typically uses black beauty, which is very aggressive and he's got a huge pressure pot, like they use on interstate bridges, so he can make quick work on any plow.

Once I'm done getting them blasted I will do all of my metal repair work, then ship them to a local paint shop, they apply self etch anticorrosive primer and 3-4 coats a acrylic urethane with a catalyst and bake them out for an hour at 140 degrees, plows look like new!

I've tried to prep them and paint them myself, just takes too much time and tough to get the professional results. Typicall runs for a total plow reblast and refinish about $650.

My sand blaster will also do the complete blast and paint but typically will run $90-$100 per foot and the paint quality isn't quite as nice as the baked on refinish.


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Here's some photos of plows I did last year

























This one was sand blasted and painted with rustoleom , brush and roller


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

These were all blasted sprayed and baked


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)




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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

But this is one of my creations, lol

























So don't let anyone tell you that good things don't come in small packages! lol


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Nascar24;435569 said:


> I have a local commercial blaster that typically will blast any 8' or less disassembled blade for $200 or less


Wow, that's a no-brainer. Wish I had somebody around here like that.



Nascar24;435569 said:


> I've tried to prep them and paint them myself, just takes too much time and tough to get the professional results.


Yeah, I haven't done this before but it is definitely a timesink. Although if I had it to do over I wouldn't bother trying to strip the old finish which took hours--just remove the loose stuff and quick sand/wash. If the old paint's on there that solidly, it'll make just as good a substrate as the bare metal.

Thanks for the pictures--those blades look like new! I can't wait until I get to my finish coats (just finished spot priming early this morning, hope to do the overall primer this weekend, will try to get some photos up).


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

Nascar24;435573 said:


> Here's some photos of plows I did last year


We'll be talking next time I need a plow! No more of this dealer crap -- rather work with a guy here

~Kevin


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Nascar24;435573 said:


> This one was sand blasted and painted with rustoleom , brush and roller


Did you thin the Rustoleum or use it right out of the can?

Use a 4" foam roller?

How many coats did you end up doing?

How's it holding up?


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

I used it straight out of the can, used a brush in one hand and a roller in the other! lol, gave it two coats after the primer.

I can't really say how they are holding up, sold the plow as soon as it was finished and we haven't had much snow so I'm sure the buyer hasn't had many pushes


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Well, a little late for this first storm but she's all painted and ready for reassembly (I finished putting the second coat on the blade l about 5 hours before the snow started to fly).



















Sure looks nice--hopefully it holds up for many years (with a little annual touch up here and there). I like the Rustoleum enamel--covers well and man, what a shine (check out the glint off the lift arm in the photo). There was an article in Hot Rod about using this paint on a car, believe it or not, and they said it works well (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html).

It was painful to have this big storm come in (we got about a foot here in Maine) without my plow in service, but I only have myself to blame. Started this project late and underestimated the time it would take by a long shot.

Also, I didn't have a heated space so there were nights I was painting some pretty cold steel (kept the paint warm in the house at least). Didn't seem to affect the application too much (although I thinned the paint a tad the night it was 12 degrees!), but slows the curing way down (I checked with a Rustoleum tech. who confirmed that the cold wouldn't affect adhesion). I ended up waiting 4-5 days between coats. From what I know about this paint it will quite a few weeks before it really hardens up solid. Another good reason to do this stuff in the late spring or summer.

What's the drill on compressing the trip springs during reassembly? I seem to remember something about using a clamp?

Thanks for all the advice. I'll get a final shot online when it's back on the truck.


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

First off, the components all look great! First class all the way, and it should last a good long time.

Second, though, are you SERIOUS that you missed a storm because of paint??? I apologize for not knowing your situation (ie: other trucks, number of accounts, etc), but if you lost any significant coin because of not plowing .......... (sensored) .........

But, the plow is looking good, so we'll end on that note!


~Kevin


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## mikelawtown (Dec 5, 2004)

Nascar where in Mass are you?..Do you paint the plows for extra $$..I need my 8 footer done, just the blade


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

YardMedic;445966 said:


> First off, the components all look great! First class all the way, and it should last a good long time.


Thanks, I needed that.



YardMedic;445966 said:


> are you SERIOUS that you missed a storm because of paint???


I don't plow commercially, just do my own road plus favors for friends/neighbors. Even so, I do feel like a fool for getting caught with my pants down on this storm. I have 2 little kids, am trying to run a business, and there just isn't a lot of spare time around the edges.


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

Back in service--here's a shot after the first test plow:










Still need to get the lights on--but everything's working and looking great!

Thanks for the help everybody.


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

That thing could be brand new out of the box! Looks great -- looks like a new install on an old truck (sometimes funny looking, but it's a good look there). I forget.... are you doing new lights?


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## Megunticook (Dec 1, 2006)

YardMedic;458766 said:


> That thing could be brand new out of the box! Looks great -- looks like a new install on an old truck (sometimes funny looking, but it's a good look there).


I hope to restore the truck body at some point (been focussing my very limited spare time on rebuilding mechanicals and electric), for now it does look a little funny!



YardMedic;458766 said:


> I forget.... are you doing new lights?


Well, actually I'm just reinstalling the lights that came on it (they aren't original, some sort of aftermarket deal, nothing special). I did install relays and rewired my headlights, so the plow lights are getting rewired as well. The relays should really boost the brightness (you wouldn't believe the length of 16 gauge copper the headlamp juice has to travel on the old stock Fisher harness--from the switch in the cab to the regular lamps, back to the toggle switch in the cab, and back out to the plow lamps--must be a good 18 feet or so--serious voltage drop!).

I did order some of those Wagner "BriteLite" halogens to use, though, I think it'll be plenty bright with those plus the relays and 12 gauge wire I used!


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## DeereFarmer (Dec 12, 2005)

Looks great. I love your shed too.


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