# American Lincoln 7700



## Aerospace Eng

I wound up purchasing an older American Lincoln 7700. Refurbished newer models (7760, 7765) go for about $25K, and new ones for a bunch more, although there isn't a lot of difference with the older ones.

This one was mostly working, and I got it to my hangar for $2600. The people selling refurbished newer models will tell you to not get an older one, as many parts have been made obsolete and are no longer available. This is mostly garbage, as most of the parts weren't made by American Lincoln anyway. I'm going to put "obsolete" or other parts on here as a resource for others.


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## Aerospace Eng

One of the things I noticed when it was being moved was that the brakes did not work.

They are mechanical disc brakes. Mine had worn pads so that the mechanical lever was at the end of its travel.

Inside view










Outside view, wheel removed (I have to take the hub off to get the inner pad out)










The parts books for the 7700, 7760, and 7765 all give the same part number, 7-08-02006, but it is for the entire brake assembly, and prices are around $200. So this post isn't about obsolete parts. Instead, it is about a way to save $$ (without any jury rigging) instead of just buying what the manufacturer wants to sell you.

The way the brake works is that the lever (mounted on a pin on the inner pad that goes through the inner support) and inner support are curved, and when the lever is moved the inner pad (mounted so that it slides on two pins rigidly connecting the inner support and outer pad) is forced away from the inner support toward the outer pad, producing the clamping action. At the same time, the pins move in the frame, so that the outer pad and inner pad have the same clamping force on the disc.

Looking at the lever, it is clear that it is a bar welded onto a much shorter lever. Thus, this is not a unique American Lincoln part. I happened to be on a website looking for a replacement suction hose, and saw a picture of a disc brake setup that looked suspiciously similar, in their Cushman cart section. It is a parking brake for a Cushman truckster (and probably others as well.

I took a chance and ordered a new Cushman brake assembly, part number 882984. It was $150. It is identical, except for the tab welded to the lever....


























I can either swap the lever from the old one, or weld a bar to the new one, and it will work.

More importantly, I found a parts book online that had that part, and gave a breakdown...

http://campkahler.com/files/898459A-Parts-Manual-r1.pdf

To summarize, in case the link goes away,

American Lincoln 7-08-02006 (70802006) is a Cushman 882984, with an extension welded on the lever.

The Cushman part number for the pads (linings and plate) are:
inner: 884079
outer: 883141

They are currently available for less than $40 each on various websites.

Cushman also has a part number for the linings themselves 883487
and rivets 826077. I couldn't find those part numbers directly, but did find a place selling a lining kit (2 pads and 8 rivets) for $33.

https://www.vintagegolfcartparts.com/Item/HD_BrkLngKit

Also, if you put a washer, or washers between the lever and inner pad, this will take up some space and you can get more life out of the pads.

I'm going to put the new caliper on one side (using the old lever), refurbish the old caliper with a new lining kit, put that on the other side, refurbish the other caliper with a lining kit, and put it in a box as a spare.


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## iceyman

Looks like a mini zamboni


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## Aerospace Eng

I call it the "Zamboni"


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## Randall Ave

What is it?


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## iceyman

Randall Ave said:


> What is it?


A sweeper.. duh


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## Aerospace Eng

Randall Ave said:


> What is it?


It's a sweeper scrubber. It has a small gutter broom and a 14" diameter x 50" main broom in the front that sweeps forward into a hopper and a set of brushes and a squeegee at the back for washing (you can see the side squeegees in the picture, but the rear squeegee was not on for transport).

You sit next to the engine (diesel for this model), and over the brushes/squeegee.

100 gallon solution and recovery tanks. It's designed for larger warehouses and factories or sidewalks. I got it because the price was right (cheaper than a set of batteries for a medium ride-on-scrubber) and with a conventional scrubber you have to have the floor swept quite clean before they work well. This should be a single pass machine.


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## FredG

Aerospace Eng said:


> I wound up purchasing an older American Lincoln 7700. Refurbished newer models (7760, 7765) go for about $25K, and new ones for a bunch more, although there isn't a lot of difference with the older ones.
> 
> This one was mostly working, and I got it to my hangar for $2600. The people selling refurbished newer models will tell you to not get an older one, as many parts have been made obsolete and are no longer available. This is mostly garbage, as most of the parts weren't made by American Lincoln anyway. I'm going to put "obsolete" or other parts on here as a resource for others.
> 
> View attachment 192905


 I sure wish I knew you were looking for a sweeper. I got a tenant 95 diesel with a new aluminum hopper runs great for $2K cab heat nice machine. I don't have the mill head anymore and have no use for it.


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## Aerospace Eng

This past weekend my lift was unoccupied, so I decided to continue work on the sweeper, rebuilding the squeegee and rear scrub brush system, since they had been inoperative since I got the machine.

I started it up, drove it onto the lift, and decided I'd lift the hopper so I could get under it more easily. The hopper moved up about two feet, and then stopped. I shut everything down, and noticed the "Zamboni" was bleeding. I lost a couple of gallons (no pictures).

Here's the aftermath today, after half a roll of pig mats on Sunday.....










I don't have to worry about my floor rusting, that's for sure. The culprit is the return hose for the scrubber brushes (3 motors in series), but I will probably replace a bunch of hoses while I am under there. The sweeper broom motor hoses, for example, are not leaking but definitely need to be replaced.










The broom is at the lower limit of bristle length, so I decided to replace it.










The idler, broom, and hydraulic motor for the sweeping broom came out without too much trouble. While the sweeper worked, this will give me the opportunity to replace the rubber containment baffles.

However, the hydraulic leak was not the end of my troubles. The left side squeegee holder has a stuck pin. The right side came out easily, but the left has not budged with PB Blaster, heart, sledgehammer, etc...



















I finally decided to walk away for a while as I was beyond frustrated, and cleaned my clock on a lift arm. After I picked myself up off the floor, I decided to spray it with more PB Blaster and let it sit for a day.

I don't know what the mechanical gods want in the way of a sacrifice (blood, dirt, concussion, etc.) before they let the pin come out.

Hopefully, I don't have to hacksaw it like I did the pin on the boom lift.


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## Mark Oomkes

Aerospace Eng said:


> I decided to spray it with more PB Blaster and let it sit for a day.


I highly recommend this stuff over PB Blaster. Personally, I think it's better than Kroil.

Had a competing sales rep in that said Torq is definitely at the top of the list, but he thought Kroil was better. And he doesn't sell either.

The proof for me was the water in a styrofoam cup and they squirted some of the Torq in it, within a few seconds it ate the bottom of the cup.


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## BossPlow2010

What stuff?


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## SHAWZER

Must be top secret invisible super spray ......


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## cwren2472

Mark Oomkes said:


> The proof for me was the water in a styrofoam cup and they squirted some of the Torq in it, within a few seconds it ate the bottom of the cup.


Do you frequently have to service your old styrofoam cups? You could just buy new ones with your PPP loan, you know.


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## Mark Oomkes

cwren2472 said:


> Do you frequently have to service your old styrofoam cups? You could just buy new ones with your PPP loan, you know.


Yes


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## Mark Oomkes

https://www.kimballmidwest.com/80744

Not sure why you can't see it...


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## Randall Ave

PB don't do much. I've had decent luck with this stuff, it smells just like Kroil. As soon as we come off triple secret probation, maybe we will find out the secret.


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## Aerospace Eng

Thanks. I’ve used Kroil before, bit not the others. I’ll see what I can find locally.


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## Aerospace Eng

None of the above penetrants was available locally in an open store. I did try Castle "Thrust" Nope.

It felt like the "Zamboni" was laughing at me.

Hacksaw time. I cheated a bit and used a portable bandsaw on those parts I could access with it.

This bearing (inner part of a 1.00x3.75 flanged bearing) was not going to either turn or come off the shaft.










The mating part....
It's an interesting design. Theoretically, the shaft rotates in the bearings and has supports for the main broom. At the same time, there are sleeved arms that go backwards to support the scrub brush tray.

The outer sleeve is supposed to turn freely on the shaft, so the brushes can be independent of the sweeper. Nope. It has a zerk, so maybe I can force some grease in there and help it to press out.










The other side....










The pin for the left squeegee was also sawed. Hopefully it will press out.










With the arms free due to cutting the shaft, the scrubber tray swung down, giving me access to the pin for the lift cylinder (after I remove a bunch more hydraulic mud and pressure wash it so I can safely remove the hydraulic lines without killing the brush motors due to dirt contamination.)










I have to devise a way, like I did for the Belos, that this area can be effectively cleaned with pressure washing so the dirt doesn't build up.

I did order a new shaft (Nitrided steel) and new flanged bearings (stainless) to help mitigate future corrosion.


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## Aerospace Eng

The pin still wouldn't come out, so I knocked the upper pin for the lift cylinder out.










Then I undid the hydraulic lines (damned engineers put the fittings too close together for easy wrenching)










Finally, I cut the scrubbing solution water feed hose, and the scrubbing deck was out.



















In addition to allowing me to repair it properly, i now have better access to deal with the shaft and bearing replacement.


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## Mr.Markus

I picture you in the future as an old insane man with too many toys....


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## cwren2472

Mr.Markus said:


> I picture you in the future as an old insane man with too many toys....
> 
> View attachment 203889


Better stay on his good side - who knows which way he'll point the inevitable death ray?


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## Randall Ave

Mr.Markus said:


> I picture you in the future as an old insane man with too many toys....
> 
> View attachment 203889


You can never have, TO MANY TOYS!


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## Aerospace Eng

Mr.Markus said:


> I picture you in the future as an old insane man with too many toys....
> 
> View attachment 203889


My wife would argue that I passed that bar a long time ago.


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## Aerospace Eng

cwren2472 said:


> Better stay on his good side - who knows which way he'll point the inevitable death ray?
> 
> View attachment 203890


Too high tech. It would fail due to a bad ground.


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## cwren2472

Aerospace Eng said:


> Too high tech. It would fail due to a bad ground.


Not to worry - we fixed that in the new and improved 2020 model that made the 2019 obsolete. Trust us.


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## Mr.Markus

cwren2472 said:


> Not to worry - we fixed that in the new and improved 2020 model that made the 2019 obsolete. Trust us.


Toro...?


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## Aerospace Eng

While I was removing the deck, as detailed above, I found the hydraulic leak.









Even with the deck removed, and better access, I could not drive out either the lower cylinder pin or the left lift deck arm pin, so I wound up cutting out the pins.

As an aside, I tried loosening up the pins with the Bolt Buster induction tool, which is why it looks baked in the photo below. I have mixed feelings about this tool. It does what it is supposed to. It got the pins red hot, without heating up the surrounding areas. However, I have had very limited success with it actually making things come loose. I'd still prefer it to a torch.

Anyway, to cut the pins I used a Ryobi oscillating tool with a carbide blade. It worked, but slowly, and the motor would occasionally shut off, presumably due to heat, so I had to let it cool down. I think if there were access, a pneumatic hacksaw would have been preferred. It did get the job done.










After repeating with the left lift arm, I got the deck lift parts separated.










Now I have to get the motors off so I can recondition the deck.

After removing a bunch of linkage I was able to remove the broom lift arm. However, even after driving out the plug from the shaft cutting, the clamp still wouldn't separate. I'm contemplating re-engineering this part.










After this, I went after the deck area with a needle scaler. I think the mission for today is to clean up and power wash the concrete, so I can mess it up again.


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## Hydromaster

Mr.Markus said:


> I picture you in the future as an old insane man with too many toys....
> 
> View attachment 203889


That looks like fun


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## Aerospace Eng

The deck cleaned up fairly well with a pressure washer. Now I can pull the hydraulic motors and wash solution distributor pipe, and recondition the deck.


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## Aerospace Eng

This post goed back a year or so, and gets back to the original purpose of the thread.

One of the nice features of this machine that attracted me to it is that the recovery tank tilts out after it is drained so that it can be pressure washed out.



















The vacuum for the scrubber section sits above it in a separate lid.










The lid used two gas struts for counterbalance.










When I first got the scrubber, I had washed the tank and bumped the lid as I put it back. The lift struts were inadequate for the job, and the lid crashed down on my hands, just on the palm side of the knuckles. The good news, I had both my hands there, and the blow was absorbed equally, so that nothing was broken. If I had had just one finger, it would have been crushed, I think. The bad news, I had both my hands there, and they both hurt like heck for a week or so. Moral of the story - don't ignore the lift struts.

The lift struts for the lid are still available, since they are used on the 7760 and 7765 models. The Alto/Lincoln/Advance/Nilfisk part number is 7-76-00104. The struts are mode by Suspa, and their part number is C16-07590.










There are two other lift struts, on the front "hood" of the machine, that gives access to the vacuum motor and filter. In the below photos, I have already replaced the struts and the front hood latch - the black plastic rectangle. The 7760 and 7765 hinge the front compartment at the bottom, so a gas strut is not used.




























The ALTO/Lincoln/Advance/Nilfisk part number is 7-76-00105. All the typical sweeper/scrubber websites tell you that it is obsolete and no longer available. Nonsense. It's a lift strut, nothing more. However, I could not read the label for a part number. It was tantalizingly almost visible, but I couldn't make out numbers that corresponded to anything in Suspa's online catalog.



















I corresponded with Suspa, telling them as much as I could. They were most helpful, and indicated that they had fufilled an order for struts with Nilfisk that matched the dimensions I had, and matched the numbers I could read. The Suspa part number is C16-07404.


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## Aerospace Eng

I knew I had an exhaust leak, so I removed the exhaust system.









There was definitely a hole.










The pipe is no longer available, so I'm trying to decide whether to patch it, get a pipe custom bent and weld on a flange, or buy elbows and lengths and let my son weld up a pipe.


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## Aerospace Eng

I also decided to replace the wheel and steering cylinder. The wheel didn't want to cooperate, even with a torch, so I had to take the whole assembly out. I didn't have a bigger puller that would get into the groove in the hub, so I used a small 3-arm puller to put pressure on it while I whacked at it from behind. No joy.









It may be hard to believe, but the floor was clean the day before. The ring on the top is a large thrust bearing. It takes the vertical and bending loads, and a smaller bearing on the shaft takes side loads and holds everything together.

The steering assembly was suspended from a plate bolted to 2 c-channels that holds the rack and spur hydraulic steering system.










There was not much evidence of lubrication on either the rack or the spur, although only the gear showed some wear. I don't think I'll replace it.




























In theory, there is a zerk, but it is in the channel above the plate and not easy to get to with the machine on the ground. I think I'll put in some lines to allow remote greasing.









The reason I had to replace the cylinder was that the aluminum head had corroded. The rest of it looked to be in good shape once I got the dirt off. No pitting of the rod or corrosion of the main cylinder.



















I did learn one lesson (sorry for the blurry picture). I used a racheting box end from gearwrench to loosen the bolts for the plate. However, I failed to transition to an open end until too late. I couldn't get the wrench off the bolt, as it was too close to a plate above, and I could not put the bolt back in, as the gearwrench does not reverse direction. You have to flip it, which obvously wasn't possible. I had to get in with an open end while the gear wrench was still on the bolt.


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## Aerospace Eng

To get into the area above the steering gear, I had to remove the radiator. It was like this when I bought it, but it wasn't leaking, surprisingly, and I figured I would get it recored when either it started to leak or the engine overheated.










Since I had to take the radiator out, I took it to Brittner's Smoke House (he smokes meats, venison, etc.) and radiator shop for recoring.










I've never had them, but people say the smoked meats are quite good, and I know from experience that they do a great job on recoring radiators. He's the go-to shop for radiators and gas tanks for vintage tractors in the area, and he repaired the radiator for my brothers Bolens G274 a few years ago.


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## Aerospace Eng

I am done working on machines on any given day when I am sufficiently filthy. Shirt, shoes, face where I wasn't wearing a mask, and hair all looked about like this. Normally I'd wash with the gloves on, then take them off and wash again, but I wanted the contrast to show.


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## fireball

Those brakes were on the original 60 inch and 72 inch self propelled scag mowers with 5 speed peerless transmissions. We had a old machine shop that would replace the the pads and rivets for 5.00. Trick was to lube the springs without getting **** on the pads and rotor I think one of the cub cadet snow blower model has them too. Given the epa/osha refs abestos brakes are a thing of the past


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## Aerospace Eng

I got the exhaust pipe repaired.

I would have preferred that it be closer to the original question mark shape, but I couldn't find any mandrel bent tubing in the right size with the right bend. This will work until I have the time to do a more thorough search.










Next problem to tackle was the muffler. It also had a hole. I ordered a new part, but when it showed up, it had a different can shape (6"x13" instead of 5"x17"). However, I verified the part number and dimensions with the distributor, so either someone replaced the muffler a while back, or the part was changed. The long tailpipe made the overall length the same, but the tailpipe is a larger diameter than the one that was on there. At any rate, I decided I would make it work.










Of course, the muffler wouldn't come off the pipe. After several unsuccessful attempts, I got mad....

First, I cut the pipe off the muffler with my horizontal band saw.










It turns out that the internal baffle was still in reasonable shape, so I could have patched the outside.









I attacked the remnants with a chisel, to no avail.

Then I used the bolt buster to heat up the outside, and using the bandsaw as a vise, and the chisel and a 2# ball-peen, got it apart.




























The new muffler fits the pipe.










Now to get the pipe mounted and then fit up the muffler.


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## zlssefi

how is this project coming along???


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