# Need help! Plow draining voltage



## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

Need some help I'm at a dead end. I been dealing with this problem for years and decided to try fixing it before it snows this season. I have a 2004 Chevy s10 Blazer with 6.5 fisher mm1 on it. Everytime I move the plow it would dim the lights and drop volts to under 12 and if you going full right to left or opposite it would slow itself down and almost stall and drop in the 9-10 on the gauge. Plow ground and power are coming right off my battery terminals. Since last year I just did some upgrades....

-Tested battery before upgrades and it held 14 volts on the meter . It is a 620cc. 
-I just upgrade stock 75-85amp alt to the 6.0L Silverado 135 amp I believe it list at. 
-Also just upgraded my power to alt and both frame and block grounds to 0/1 g wire (big 3 upgrade its called on some forums)

So I hooked the plow up. Truck has 14.75 volts cold idle and around 14.4 warm idle. Go up, left or right on the plow and the battery drops to 11's on volt meter . At the pump motor going up or left or right the volts drop to 10's on the meter. Does the same with the wires and bigger alt as it did stock. What is the issue I don't see any changes from either upgrade. I have even put jumpers on to another truck To act as a second battery and didn't help. 

Help me fix this! I had other trucks do the same in the past but just dealt with it. I know plows draw a lot, someone has to have a solution?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Ohm plow motor wires. What fluid are you using and how cold is it, when was it last changed? I am guessing this a Homesteader plow 3 plug, how are the bumper connections? How old is the motor? Is plow binding, rams pitted or bent?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Are you testing this at idle?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

You do realize that alternator rating is at full RPM. At idle the output is lower. As long as the battery voltage jumps back to normal operating voltage, your fine. Now if the engine is stalling, you have a problem.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Ohm plow motor wires. What fluid are you using and how cold is it, when was it last changed? I am guessing this a Homesteader plow 3 plug, how are the bumper connections? How old is the motor? Is plow binding, rams pitted or bent?


Use the blue plow fluid from Napa changed last year when cleaned out no sludge in it. It's like 40-45 deg today. Plow is a steel fisher mm1 two plug. Power plug to plow comes from power and ground of battery. Not sure of motor age but worked all last season same as now. No binding or pits happens up and down same as side to side.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

dieselss said:


> Are you testing this at idle?


Yes at idle with a meter under the hood and someone running the plow.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

Randall Ave said:


> You do realize that alternator rating is at full RPM. At idle the output is lower. As long as the battery voltage jumps back to normal operating voltage, your fine. Now if the engine is stalling, you have a problem.


I know the idle output of an alt is lower at idle but even acts the same if driving or raising idle. The volts do jump right back when you let go. If you go side to side at idle back and forth it hasn't stalled but will go to 9volts and get ready to stall, but again will bounce back once you stop.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

Even though the battery at idle with no plow holds charge and is 14.5-75 volts, can it be the battery? Would a marine or optimum solve the draw? 

The upgrade I did was to the gm AD244 130amp. I have read that Napa offers a HO AD244 that is suppose to be 180 or 200amp? Is that a solution is to buy one of these $200+ alt that are 200amps or more?


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

So you went from 75 amp alt to 130 amp, did you change the wire from the alt to the battery? or are you trying to push all that extra amps through the stock wire?

Try having someone hold the RPS at 1500 and measure the bat voltage when operating the plow.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

theplowmeister said:


> So you went from 75 amp alt to 130 amp, did you change the wire from the alt to the battery? or are you trying to push all that extra amps through the stock wire?
> 
> Try having someone hold the RPS at 1500 and measure the bat voltage when operating the plow.


I just upgraded the alt wire and both grounds to 0/1 gauge wire. That's the part I'm confused on. Wore and all are upgraded and even if it is not enough still I didn't notice any difference. I haven't tested with meter at rev but I have held trottle past 1500 while moving the plow and it still draws


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Goduti Waste said:


> Use the blue plow fluid from Napa changed last year when cleaned out no sludge in it. It's like 40-45 deg today. Plow is a steel fisher mm1 two plug. Power plug to plow comes from power and ground of battery. Not sure of motor age but worked all last season same as now. No binding or pits happens up and down same as side to side.


Have the battery tested. 620cc is small to begin with and if it has lost any the plow will kill it. Voltage test wont tell you if battery is still good.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

I will have it tested this week. Any other suggestions? If it checks out ok what's the next issue in line?


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Goduti Waste said:


> I will have it tested this week. Any other suggestions? If it checks out ok what's the next issue in line?


Just remember you are always gonna have some noticeable draw when operating the plow. Most plows require 100A+, the smaller batteries just don't handle this well. If my memory is right S10s have a side post battery, I would suggest a dual post battery and mount plow wires to the top posts. The gives a better contact compared to the adapters for side posts. Only other thing would be to have plow motor tested for amp draw.


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

kimber750 said:


> Just remember you are always gonna have some noticeable draw when operating the plow. Most plows require 100A+, the smaller batteries just don't handle this well. If my memory is right S10s have a side post battery, I would suggest a dual post battery and mount plow wires to the top posts. The gives a better contact compared to the adapters for side posts. Only other thing would be to have plow motor tested for amp draw.


Thanks, how do I go about testing the pump motor? Done on or off the truck?


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

for @$120 you can get a napa battery, side only or double post...900cca,
i would start with one, you need to make up for the short heavy draw,


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Volt or voltage is one thing.....it's the amp that's killing you.

You need a amp meter to determine the AMP draw, that's the first thing you need to determine.

If it's high, sounds like it might higher then spec, you'll need to determine whether it's the motor, power cables, connections, or combination. 

The cables can be worn internally or most likely the motor is faulty. As the get older, they take more power/amps to run them.

Are the cables warm or hot after a few ups and downs/lefts and rights?


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

fisher.
Solenoid Coil Resistance =
7 Ohms at room temperature
• Solenoid Coil Amp. Draw =
1.5 Amp.
• Motor Relay Coil Resistance = 16
- 17 Ohms
• Motor Relay Amp. Draw =
0.7 Amp.
• Motor Amp. Draw = 190 Amp. at
1750 psi
• Switched Accessory Lead Draw =
0.75 Amp


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

10+ volts at the pump when angling is not a bad voltage. when the travel reaches the end the amp draw will go up my MM2 draws 255 amps when the plow runs into the stops.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Some Good info right there!


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

SnoFarmer said:


> fisher.
> Solenoid Coil Resistance =
> 7 Ohms at room temperature
> • Solenoid Coil Amp. Draw =
> ...


Thank you, I will try hooking up to it this afternoon and do some testing. If the motor draws 190 Amps plus whatever the vehicle draws is there ever a time where a plow will run fast and not notice any volt drop or loss? What alt/ battery combo would you need or is it just how it is on every plow out there?


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

1olddogtwo said:


> Volt or voltage is one thing.....it's the amp that's killing you.
> 
> You need a amp meter to determine the AMP draw, that's the first thing you need to determine.
> 
> ...


The cables do not get warm after running. One thing it does have I forgot to mention is the control plug was replaced. It is the way I got it but someone replaced the control ends with the 4 plug trailer light wires. I didn't think that would be the issue so I forgot to even list it. Is that fine or would that be part of the problem? I have seen it done before so I didn't bother changing it yet.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Goduti Waste said:


> Thank you, I will try hooking up to it this afternoon and do some testing. If the motor draws 190 Amps plus whatever the vehicle draws is there ever a time where a plow will run fast and not notice any volt drop or loss? What alt/ battery combo would you need or is it just how it is on every plow out there?


Nature of the beast. Even with dual batteries you will see a drop in power, they just seem to recover better and last longer since two batteries share the load.


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

NO you will always have a voltage drop. do this disconnect the ignition wire and crank the motor measure the voltage... it will drop. 

Why do you thing they have such large batteries in trucks and not a couple of AAA cells. compare the size of your starter motor (not including the solenoid on the starter usually miss called the bendix) to the size of the plow motor. I bet the plow motor is bigger. Bigger = more amps


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

Haven't had to much time this week but messed with it a little. Solenoids are right at 7 ohms each. I cleaned all the connections and still is the same. How do I get the amp draw tests done? Can I do it myself? 

Other question is the harness off the Solenoids is 4 wires and someone replaced that side and truck side before me with a 4 wire trailer light plug. It works but starting to look rough. Can that be a big draw spot or issue? Or if it works it works? I tried looking for stock replacement plugs but only find 9 pin. Is that all they have and you just cut off the extra, or is there a 4 wire plug replacement for both ends?

Thanks


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Goduti Waste said:


> Haven't had to much time this week but messed with it a little. Solenoids are right at 7 ohms each. I cleaned all the connections and still is the same. How do I get the amp draw tests done? Can I do it myself?
> 
> Other question is the harness off the Solenoids is 4 wires and someone replaced that side and truck side before me with a 4 wire trailer light plug. It works but starting to look rough. Can that be a big draw spot or issue? Or if it works it works? I tried looking for stock replacement plugs but only find 9 pin. Is that all they have and you just cut off the extra, or is there a 4 wire plug replacement for both ends?
> 
> Thanks


What are you calling solenoids? The coils on the valves? Motor solenoid/relay? Someone put a trailer connector in to what? How about some pics of what you are working on? Pics of connectors, solenoid, this trailer plug(dying to see this) and battery connections.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

You need to post some pictures of these trailer connections. Starting to sound like a bird project.


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## 1olddogtwo (Aug 6, 2007)

Something like this

https://www.google.com/search?q=dc+...&ved=0ahUKEwj9vrfL_9fQAhUKyoMKHTLaDX8QgTYIzAQ

With it set to DC.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

I used 3 trailer plugs in a pinch for 1/2 a year,then i went and got a factory plug....


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

One light this. It works and it is kind of like how the old Meyers use to be with the single pin plugs. It works but not sure if that might be an issue. Not even sure what factory plug I need or where to find them. All I find is 9 pins.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

you did test the motor.
your amp draw is getting to the high side.
(you took the amp measurement with the plow maxed out against the stop?)

you did clean all of your connections, even test the solenoid.

i dont see your light plugs as the cause of your amp draw.

ps you did clean the filter/screen when you changed the fluid, right?


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

I tested the motor with multimeter for volt drop while someone held the button. I did not test the motor for amp draw, I will be testing the Amps Monday or Tuesday when I can get the tool. I did clean everything with the wire brush and wheel then put some fluid film on them. When I did the fluid I put a new filter on and cleaned out the inside of the body.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

I had one once that was slow and a high draw. The battery cable from the battery to the solenoid was corroded inside. Looked fine outside. replaced it, worked great.


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## wirenut (Jan 16, 2004)

prob the pump motor...mine was doing that and finally killed the battery...new motor all is good


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## wirenut (Jan 16, 2004)

Goduti Waste said:


> One light this. It works and it is kind of like how the old Meyers use to be with the single pin plugs. It works but not sure if that might be an issue. Not even sure what factory plug I need or where to find them. All I find is 9 pins.
> 
> View attachment 168167


just put a fisher on an 04...made my own harness...refuse to pay fisher prices for wire... i used one of those to run the plow and one for lights
with fork truck battery connectors.....all free stuff i had....


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

wirenut said:


> just put a fisher on an 04...made my own harness...refuse to pay fisher prices for wire... i used one of those to run the plow and one for lights
> with fork truck battery connectors.....all free stuff i had....


Pics?


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## Goduti Waste (Nov 17, 2016)

So just an update, I haven't been able to test the amps yet. Put new control plug on and I did how ever go try a new red top optimum battery 800/1000 cca. No luck no different then cheap stock battery.


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