# cobblestone driveways



## DCL (Oct 15, 2009)

We've got a mansion in newport we have to plow this year and it has a large cobblestone apron as well as a good size cobblestone turn around. The cobbles are antique and very uneven (old money mansion). The remaining drive is oil and stone. Any suggestions as to the cobbles? How hard is it to leave just an inch of snow behind?


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

i've taken a drive over cobbles and gravel before to pack some snow down and then try to get the plow to float over the tracks, doesn't always work but does sometimes. you're bound to pick a few out too, we get a couple every year if they aren't cemented in.


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## Grampa Plow (Sep 1, 2008)

I'd make sure that you discuss (and have written) the fact that you will not be responsible for stone removed by plowing.


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## jimspro (Oct 9, 2009)

i had a couple of drives that had cobblestone, and ended up using a blower on that area, the blower can also do some damage as well, but you have better control with it.


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## DCL (Oct 15, 2009)

Yeah, the maintenance guy told me the owner has to have it topdressed every year w/ another layer of oil & stone. As for the cobbles, theyre the jumbo ones buried the long way (12"). I should be alright as long as the ground is frozen. I stated in the contract that we were not responcible but luckaly its the line of work we do so if I have to fix a few I wont mind.

Is it even possible to "float" your blade but about an inch of the ground?


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## exmark1 (Nov 30, 2005)

I refuse to deal with them...those and paver block driveways. 

Too much hassle and risk to deal with, but when we used to do them I would just lower the plow an inch from the ground and go slow so you didn't catch them.


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## DCL (Oct 15, 2009)

yeah, weve got a few paver drives that we installed and sold on plowing. They dont worry me to much though as they are good and flat. The older cobbles worry me a tad but I guess we'll just wee how it goes.


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## jjklongisland (Nov 13, 2006)

I would use feet on my plow for the cobblestone areas or invest in a rubber cutting edge. Or there is always the old school method, Get out and shovel...


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## Exact Services (Oct 11, 2008)

jjklongisland;861187 said:


> I would use feet on my plow for the cobblestone areas or invest in a rubber cutting edge. Or there is always the old school method, Get out and shovel...


Get a decent single stage blower Toro CCR 2450, 221Q both under 80# or the lighter old school CCR Powerlite 40# or maybe the new Power Curve 180 right at 65#. If you have a salter on the back the samller ones are much easier to lift over the side of a truck bed. Way faster than shoveling. 
:waving:


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## snocrete (Feb 28, 2009)

jjklongisland;861187 said:


> I would use feet on my plow for the cobblestone areas or invest in a rubber cutting edge. Or there is always the old school method, Get out and shovel...


changing the cutting edge to urethane or rubber would obviously be the best, but I'm gonna assume he cant justify doing that considering this isnt a problem on the majority of places the truck goes to......running shoes on that job my be your best bet? just make sure ther urethane.


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## scottL (Dec 7, 2002)

Steel Blade will scratch, may crack the stones.
Steel feet will scratch the stones.
If this is a historic house you may own more than you think regardless of what the owner signs. 

Set up a plow with a poly or rubber cutting edge and expect it to wear out at least once during the season if not more. Honestly, I stay away from stampped anything, brick or anything colored - you just have no idea how it was put in.


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## DCL (Oct 15, 2009)

Im not too worried anymore. I know the contractor who installed it and I know the product installed (we install them all the time). I figure ill give it a shot for this year and she what happens. The guy's real cool too, hopefully lol.


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## dmontgomery (Oct 3, 2003)

I have been told that backdragging is viable option on stone drives.....just a thought.....I probably wouldnt deal with it


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## MattyK (Dec 16, 2008)

DCL;861156 said:


> Is it even possible to "float" your blade but about an inch of the ground?


You can short chain it. Use a jack under the plow frame and jack it up a few inches. Then adjust the chain so that when you drop it it falls an inch over the road. I'd put a zip tie on the link of chain after you do it the first time so you can easily spot it and set it for future use. Then when you pull up to the job, drop the blade in a snow bank or on a curb and adjust the chain and you'll be all set.


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## snocrete (Feb 28, 2009)

scottL;862243 said:


> Set up a plow with a poly or rubber cutting edge and expect it to wear out at least once during the season if not more. QUOTE]


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

MattyK;862924 said:


> You can short chain it. Use a jack under the plow frame and jack it up a few inches. Then adjust the chain so that when you drop it it falls an inch over the road. I'd put a zip tie on the link of chain after you do it the first time so you can easily spot it and set it for future use. Then when you pull up to the job, drop the blade in a snow bank or on a curb and adjust the chain and you'll be all set.


or just drop it and then raise it an inch? doesn't take too much effort, plow with the window open and a slow steady speed and its not hard


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## DCL (Oct 15, 2009)

thats a damn good idea mattyk. I may have to give that a try. Thanks


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