# Fisher adjustment ?



## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

I was just going to adjust the attack angle of my new to me minute mount fisher V and found no way to adjust it. Am i missing something. My MM2 does have adjust ment but not the MM1
PLEASE HELP Snow on its way


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## Crash935 (Sep 3, 2003)

There should be three holes on each side where the a-frame and headgear pin together.


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## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

nope just looking it at again to make sure im not just being an idiot. There seems to be no adjustment what so ever Straight the blade will work but in scoop or angled there is almost a 1/2 inch gap am i just F$#@ed or is there anything i can do


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## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

Well looks like ill be fabbing some new mounts for where the plow meets the headgear. The plows gab is the worst in the vee which i won't be using anytime soon so hopefully i can make something up fairly soon so the edges don't become too bad of a smiley face


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## Arc Burn (Oct 21, 2002)

Slown down,don't go fabbing anything yet,it's not the angle of the blade you want to change.
Check behind the A-frame for a "push beam"there are 4 bolts holding this,2 on each side,2 are 3/4" i believe and the other 2 are around 5/8",loosen those up(they may have come loose) then mount the plow,put the plow in "scoop" and place a 1/4" piece of steel on the floor in the center of the blade to rest on,set the blade down,now tighten the front 2 bolts on the push beam and back the truck away so you can get to the 2 3/4" bolts to tighten them.
If any of this doesn't make sense(i'm a dope when it comes to explaining this stuff ) Goto the Fisher website and download the instructions for a Headgear Kit,the info should also be in there under "final adjustments"


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## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

Thanks for the reply Arc, but no dice, the push beam is welding in, 
looks factory so i don't know what the story is with this plow. Maybe it was one of the first ones Thanks for the help but im outta here 14 hours at the office is long enough


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## nsmilligan (Dec 21, 1999)

Arc Burn is right, except the original minute mount EZ-V didn't come with any holes for the front 2 5/8 (grade 8 ) bolts, part of the installation process was to mount the plow put it in the V position on a level floor (both the truck and Blade) and with the plow square to the floor you drilled the front 2 holes and bolted it up. So since it's now not the original truck you have to loosen the 4 bolts remove the front 2,with the plow and truck on a level floor or pavement, put the plow in a V or scoop and re-drill the 2 holes as required. I've always welded the seam along the top of the A frame and the H (rear push) frame, as I could never get the bolts to stay tight.

Bill

PS I just read your reply to Arc Burn, the weld between the A frame and the H frame is NOT factory, just someone doing what I did, these bolts are impossible to keep tight. you'll need to grind out or cut the weld, unless you may need a welding shop, once they have the 2 pieces separated, just have them reweld it in the correct position.


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## Arc Burn (Oct 21, 2002)

LOL! Thanks Bill,You know that tomorrow i have the first early model V coming in the shop for repairs that i have ever seen?I've read about them,using the old relay wiring(seen lots of those!)Just have yet to run into one of those early V's!
I wonder if his was welded also Bill?I also wonder now if this is not the first truck the plow has been on,if the previous had a different ride height that would thro things out of kilter ya know?

PS-LOL again Bill!You read my mind


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## nsmilligan (Dec 21, 1999)

My V was installed in Nov 97, so it's VERY early, in 99 I changed it from a 2500 GMC to my Dodge 2500 V10, had to go thru the above process cut the old weld out, realign the plow and reweld it, actually it should be set up with the truck loaded like it will be plowing a few 100 pounds of salt in the back will make a difference on hoe the plow sits. Here's a pic of the plow with new 9.5 wings and stop kit installed.


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## nsmilligan (Dec 21, 1999)

From the front with the new carbide edges. The stop kit makes a big difference, and the 3rd spring keeps the edges from tripping as easliy. Good luck tommorrow.

Bill
Ps Arc Burn, sorry I see you already saw these


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## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

Thanks guys, now i understand what you are talking about. Ill get it done today. Just got in a from a little plowing and some salting . Man it feels good to be out there again Thanks again
Making ears would have been a pain in the a$$
3-6 inches again tonite


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## Brian Simmons (Mar 13, 2002)

The original version MM1 had the rear holes drilled after the adjustments were set. With the MM2 we now offer slots to help people readjust to compensate for additional ballast or whatever. When you get ready to redrill or reweld make sure the truck will be equipped as it will be plowing with - I.E. ballast or spreader already in the back half full of material. If you do not do this the wings will not sit flat and will wear funny.


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## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

Have yet to fix attack angle Will hopefully get to it this week sometime. NSMilligan, if i remeber correctly you added the wing stops to your fisher. I really want to put them on both of mine. Do you have any pics of them to give me a better idea of what to fabricate for it


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## nsmilligan (Dec 21, 1999)

The stops I used were Fisher part #26634, if it's an 8.5 EZ-V, you'll have to weld stops to the blade. You can see them in the pic above , they're just 2 plates welded to the plates that the angle cylinders mount to.

Bill


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## edshipp19 (Dec 14, 2002)

Thanks Bill one more question about how much is that part
Thanks in advance
Brian


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## Arc Burn (Oct 21, 2002)

Should retail at around $175.


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