# Tranny line repair!



## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

Well, I got the truck home last night, drove it to school this morning, came out this afternoon, and there was a puddle of ATF under my truck, not big, but not small. I looked, and it looked like they didn't get the gasket seated or something, so I brought it back. I was really :realmad: , and almost started B****ing at them, but I figured I'd save it. Boy, am I glad I did-It turns out, that the two tranny lines that run under the pan(return and pressure lines) had been rubbing against echother for 160,000+ miles, and had wore pin hole leaks in them. $500 bucks for new lines! They told me, though, that I can just either cut that section out and replace it with new line, and attach it with pressure fittings, or I could take some high pressure fuel hose, and hose clamp it in there. Which would you guys do, or do you have another idea? I'll post a pic of the section tomarrow. The only good thing that happened today was the dealer bent over backwards, so I could limp the truck home. I only had 10 bucks on me, and I needed about 4quarts of ATF to get home. I bought a quart ($8!!!) and I couldn't figure out what to do, so the tech that was showing me this stuff just went around the shop and got me 3 more quarts of ATF, I guess he felt bad for a 16 year old with no way to get home but have his momma drive him home and pick up the truck later! They didn't charge me anything, even though it was about an hour and a half labor, so I am really glad that I didn't :realmad: at them. Otherwise they would have kicked me out the door!


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## Adams plowing (Oct 8, 2003)

I'd use the fuel hose and hose clamps. this way you dont have to do any cutting and risk the possibility of causing other leaks at the spot where the pressure fittings are at. atleast now you only have 1 hole in each line to worry about instead of 2 or 3 fittings to possibly leak.


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## Garagekeeper (Jan 18, 2002)

*Cooler Line Repair*

Matt if the cooler lines are still in good shape and not rusted, cut out the section where the holes are and use a compression fitting to make your repair.
Don't use fuel line to do a splice repair as it tends to swell and leak after a short period of time.
Use trans cooler rubber line that is designed to have trans fluid in it along with the higher fluid tempatures.
You could use the rubber cooler hose to replace the steel line completely if you wish too, just use the correct fittings to connect to the trans and cooler at the radiator.
 John..........


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Like John said,don't use fuel line,it will not hold up and leak.The Dodge's use much bigger lines than most,and it's hard to find rubber hose rated for the application,without going with a thick hydraulic type hose which is to thick to clamp.

If your tight for cash,cut out the bad section,and make a new section and use compression fittings.

To do it right,you need to replace the lines.If you go with the factory lines (expensive),then get the ones with the temp sender port for a temp gauge.At least it will be there is you need it later.Get a couple of the little plastic line isolators that keep the lines apart and install them so they don't rub together.That's what caused the failure in the first place.It's common on the Dodge's as they get older,they rub through.

You can also have a good hose\fitting\hydraulic shop make you up a set of better lines,for probably less money.They will just need the fitting sizes off your truck.They can use a higher rated hydraulic hose,which is flexible for easy installation,and will probably outlast the truck.

Don't be stupid and bypass the big water\trans fluid cooler under the exhaust manifold.A lot of shops seem to think it's easier to bypass it and go straight to the cooler up front.It will not work properly.


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## nsmilligan (Dec 21, 1999)

On my truck I brazed over the pin holes, and wraped the line in fiberglass resin, it lasted another year,(started leaking in a different spot), which is usually the case once a line startes leaking in one spot, there's likly another that is really to go, so I replaced it. The transmission line (pressure) was $134. CDN which would make it about $100 US with current exchange rate, I expect the return line would be about the same, so $500 US sounds a little high, unless they were also quoting on labour to replace. It's a pretty easy job to replace them yourself, break the pressure line at the jic fitting instead of removing the push on coupling at the rad. You might want to check with some junk yards for used lines, sometimes you can find decent lines.

BIll


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

Does anybody know what size the line is? the dealer told me it was 3/8,but it is bigger than that, and napa told me it was metric. He said it was about 1/2 inch. Does anybody know for sure? Thanks


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

I'm pretty sure they are 1/2".They are much bigger than your standard steel fuel\tranny lines.


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

So they aren't metric, then. The guy said it was metric at NAPA, his micrometer must have been off or something. I'll take some old line, just incase, though. I'm just going to bend some lines up myself. One other thing, should I just add a T-Fitting, to plug in the transmission temp. idiot light, or should I just leave it out, since I am going to add a tranny temp gauge? Thanks for the input so far.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Just scrap the idiot light,by the time it comes on the damage is done.Use the port for your temp gauge.


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

Should I put the new port in the return line (that goes from cooler to tranny) or in the pressure line (goes from one side of tranny to the other), or should I put it in the pan? Would the pressure line be accurate enough?


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

You want it in the hot side,coming out of the trans.It's the one that crosses over the front of the pan after it comes out of the trans.This is the hottest point,right before it goes into the first cooler.

You could also put one in the pan too.I have done afew with two sending units (one in the line,one in the pan) connected to a switch to one gauge.Allows you to monitor both temps,with only one gauge.


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

Thanks Wyldman, that's a great idea with the switch thing.


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## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

I know Im late on this post,but Id do away with the clip on connectors if you still have them.There are 2 options If you buy all the factory parts it is about 350 bucks,and you can do the job in about 2 hrs,replacing all the lines,and putting the new thread on fittings in the trans.When I went to twin turbos I had to remove the block mounted heat exchange.I used -8 fittings and braided steel lines to replace everything,This setup is strong,and will hold,they only downside is the fact that you have to do a lot of tieing them off to other lines,and putting them together.The cost so far is about 150 bucks to replace most of my lines,so this may come out cheaper.The trans has 1/4"NPT ports of you decide to to it this way.Remember no matter what you do with these lines,if you ever plan have to have the trans modified with a shift kit or valve body,the pressures in these lines are high.My trans lines have 150+PSI in them.The average truck has 90+psi,when in lockup.Even fuel hose was not mean to be 200 degrees,then be subjected to 100+psi when the TC locks up.The cooler line that comes out of the trans right behind the TC and goes to the block mounted cooler is the most likely to fail.You do not want Rubber here at all.I even replace the rubber section that comes in the factory 94-95 lines,with the braided lines.


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

I got the line, I am just going to replace the entire lines, that way it won't go in the middle of a storm. I just have to get my buddies bender, and then I'll be set. Thanks for all the input guys.


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## griffithtlc2 (Oct 27, 2003)

I replaced the lines and I don't have 4th gear until the tranny warms up. Is there just air in the lines?


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

That last post was from school, I had to make it quick before the teach saw me. I had to make a new account, because their computers were wierd, and wouldn't let my original name work. Anyway, what it was doing is it wouldn't go into 4th gear until it warmed up, and wouldn't lock up. After school, I had 4th gear, but no lock up. Then on my way home, it wasn't locking, and I pulled to a stop sign, and then when I got up to speed, I had lockup. Do you think it was just air in the lines? It seems to run fine now, but we'll see after it cools down. Maybe it has something to do with scrapping the trans. temp. sensor? I plugged the sensor in, but didn't tap into the line, just so the light would go out.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

It may have something to do with the temp sender.I didn't think it was tied in on the older RH,or hydraulic trannies.I know on the electronically controlled RE units,it will prevent lockup and sometimes OD when the fluid is cold.

Johnny D would know better,he's the tranny expert.


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## Mike 97 SS (Aug 11, 2002)

I know nothing really about transmissions, but did you recheck the fluid level after you put on the new lines and fill to the proper level with the proper fluid? Just a long shot I guess, but worth mentioning I figured. Mike


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

Yeah, the fluid is finally stable. It soaked down a little over 3 quarts with just the line replacement! It is definitely temp related, as when it is colder, it takes longer to get 4th gear and/or TCC lockup.


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*Dodge Factory Temp light*

Why is the Trans Temp light worthless ? at what temp does it indicate a problem . Seems kind of ridiculous if Dodge let the sensor activate after trans damage ?


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

*Re: Dodge Factory Temp light*



> _Originally posted by BWhite _
> *Why is the Trans Temp light worthless ? at what temp does it indicate a problem . Seems kind of ridiculous if Dodge let the sensor activate after trans damage ? *


By the time the idiot light comes on,it's too late,and your already doing damage.The temp threshold is set too high.


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## griffithtlc (Jul 24, 2003)

I put the tranny temp gauge in today, and it seems like it's running really cool. I also reinstalled the factory sensor, and it still takes a little while to shift in to OD. I did a cold start (30 degrees) w/o the block heater. It took a few minutes to finally get OD, and my temp gauge only registered 110 or so at the hottest point. Is this normal?  I was running unloaded, and it was halfway cold out. Here is the strange part-I took laser temp readings before the T, and it was the same as the gauge, 105. I took readings after the block, and it was 115-120. The T block was at 100 or a little less. Does it make sense? The line after the block was a bit closer to the oil pan, maybe that makes a little difference? What do you guys think?


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## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

Matt ,that is normal,the engine mounted cooler actually heats the fluid unitl the trans temp reaches engine temp(which it hardly ever does).On a cool day it is normal to have a trans temps of 110-130 degrees in the hot line when just cruising.I found that when you remove the block mounted cooler,(when i put my twin turbos on),that the trans actually runs extremely cool. Coming bacl from Kauffmans dyno day in PA,driving in 42 degree air temps for 4+ hrs,my trans ran at 72-75 degrees in the hot line then entire time.I found the trans runs much cooler now with the engine mounted cooler bypassed.


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