# Timbrens: Install Pictures



## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

This is for all like me that didn't want to install these because they don't realize in fact how easy they are to install:

Here is what you get in the box:









Here is what you need to do the install:

15mm Socket ( to remove factory stops)
14mm Scoket (to install new Timbrens)
12" Extension
Matching Ratchet (1/4 - 3/8 - 1/2)

Not needed but nice to have:

Knuckle
Screwdriver (to clean dirt from around the factory nut)
Blow Gun (to blow out what you scratched away with the screwdriver)
Thread Locker (I put a dab on the threads just for my own comfort)( not needed in directions though)
Impact Gun (a 4-way will do for taking off tires, but that leads to more of the next item)
Busch Light (makes the job just that much easier)










Jack up the front end of the truck so the suspension hangs (jack from the frame) and remove front tires:

This is what you are removing:


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

*Some more*

This is the nut to remove them (15mm):










Here is what mine looked like :


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

*and the rest*

This is what it looks like without anything there:









There are the Timberns:










And here it is back togther:










*Over all this is about a 3 beer job by yourself from pulling truck into shop and gathering all the tools. (Under an hour)

If you have a naggin wife, you could maybe strech it to a 5 beer job.

If you have at least 2 buddies to help you through the whole project i would say it could take a case*


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## millsaps118 (Aug 13, 2006)

PhilBilly2--Nice job, they make a HUGE difference don't they.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

oh yeah, I didn't take any before pictures, i am going to see if I can find any in the camera so all can see that they do work!


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## highlander316 (Oct 18, 2006)

are you going to get an alignment or anything else?


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## PLM-1 (Nov 29, 2004)

highlander316;483583 said:


> are you going to get an alignment or anything else?


No need. It doesn't ride on them without a load. They just don't squish as much as the factory stops and are also taller/thicker.


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## scitown (Dec 9, 2007)

Thanks. That is helpful. Reading the timbrens website it looked easy but some people on this site will just "throw" a new transmission in too. I guess I have no excuse now.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

That is why I did it. I thought it made it a little more comforting to see real pictures. 

And as for the transmission thing, only the first half a dozen are hard


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## 10elawncare (Sep 16, 2007)

my stock one looked the same way! also, the passenger side went in no problem. but the driver side took some time to get it in with the wedge. I think it took me about an hour or so to do the front. the rears would be extremely easy to do. they do make a huge difference! the truck doesnt even squat with them now. i also cranked the t-bars which if im ever not in a lazy mood im going to lower them a few turns. 
-i used a dab of glue to keep the wedge on the timbren so i could align the bolt to the hole.


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## billet-boy (Dec 31, 2007)

installing timbrens is the easiest job i have done lately and what a difference


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## TTA89 (Aug 3, 2006)

PLM-1;483622 said:


> No need. It doesn't ride on them without a load. They just don't squish as much as the factory stops and are also taller/thicker.


I had mine installed on Monday, I don't have a shop to pull my truck into and its cold and icy in the driveway. That, plus I'm lazy 

My truck rides on the timbrens, at least it looks that way when looking in there when I turn the wheels. I haven't touched my T-bars, I didn't measure but it looks like the truck is raised a tad more in the front with them installed. I notice zero difference in driveability which is awesome! Haven't hooked up the plow yet, waiting for snow.....


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## PLM-1 (Nov 29, 2004)

TTA89;483899 said:


> I had mine installed on Monday, I don't have a shop to pull my truck into and its cold and icy in the driveway. That, plus I'm lazy
> 
> My truck rides on the timbrens, at least it looks that way when looking in there when I turn the wheels. I haven't touched my T-bars, I didn't measure but it looks like the truck is raised a tad more in the front with them installed. I notice zero difference in driveability which is awesome! Haven't hooked up the plow yet, waiting for snow.....


All trucks must be set up differently from the factory. I know that some trucks sit at different heights left and right. I have never touched my t-bars and I can slide my finger between mine. They are called bump STOPS for a reason.


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

This fall when I did the job I took a few pictures too

Aside from the hand tools, I found a use for (now mind you my truck is a 97 and the factory bump stops were very stubborn to remove)










In fact here is what the stops look after, cutting, grinding, air chisling them out










Ok, here are the money shots

In this one notice how the Timbren mounts to the frame










Here you can see the clearance between the Timbren and the control arm.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Dang, when you bring out a sawzall and a grinder, you are getting into at least a 12 pack job right there.

Nice Pics


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

Nah, was a 1.5 hour job. Should have been a 1 hour job. Since I have the tools, I dont screw around when the going gets tough. Grinder was used because the backing plate on the factory bump stop had fused to the support. I should point out my pics show the install on a 1500 rather than a 2500.


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## Plowinpro03 (Dec 18, 2007)

saabman;484051 said:


> Nah, was a 1.5 hour job. Should have been a 1 hour job. Since I have the tools, I dont screw around when the going gets tough. Grinder was used because the backing plate on the factory bump stop had fused to the support. I should point out my pics show the install on a 1500 rather than a 2500.


Haha...my truck is a 96..what a pita it was to install my 'brens.....i just cut off the bolts with a torch...that much more eaiser....but in all honestly..i haven't notice much of a difference.....(prolly b/c i have my Torsion bars cranked way up).....also..saabman..i believe the passenger side shock bolt rubs up against the timbren and starts to cut into it..better check ..


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## MarksTLC (Oct 6, 2003)

Great post. Thanks for taking the time to get the pix.


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## tkrepairs (Nov 28, 2007)

ya the timbren install was about a half hour job. how can you go wrong? undo 2 nuts. screw in two bolts. probably spent more time taking off the damn hub covers and lug nuts then putting them back on than working with the timbrens and factory stops.


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

> ..i believe the passenger side shock bolt rubs up against the timbren and starts to cut into it..better check ..


IIRC, the instructionw call for you to flip the bolt around (so it does not contact). But I will heed your advice, and check it out too.


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## Quality SR (Oct 25, 2006)

This was a good post. thanks for all the good info. keep it coming


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## IMAGE (Oct 21, 2007)

SO ALL TIMBRENS ARE IS NEW BUMP STOPS? I was under the impression they were an airbag. Hell if all they are is new bumps there are alot of places out there that sell upgraded bumps for offroading. Just take a second to measure up, and way cheaper.


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## Plowinpro03 (Dec 18, 2007)

saabman;484550 said:


> IIRC, the instructionw call for you to flip the bolt around (so it does not contact). But I will heed your advice, and check it out too.


haha......your more then likely right, i didn't read the direction, and although I DID notice the nut in the way i ran short on time b4 i had to get to work to reveres it..


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

Timbrens are not a bump stop. Bump stops are typically very rigid and designed to stop the motion of the suspension. Timbrens load up and deliver suplimental "spring rate" before they bottom out. Think of them like you would airbags, but they are zero maintenance.


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## TTA89 (Aug 3, 2006)

PLM-1;483952 said:


> All trucks must be set up differently from the factory. I know that some trucks sit at different heights left and right. I have never touched my t-bars and I can slide my finger between mine. They are called bump STOPS for a reason.


The factory designed it to ride on the "bumpstops" in a factory config. This is why some people claim a rough ride when they raise the torsion bars and add timbrens, because then the suspension "jumps" up and down on the "stops".

BTW, just adding the timbrens def gave the front end some height, I had to jack the plow up to get it on the truck as the truck was higher than the headgear before the timbrens.

Lowering and raising the plow it doesn't bounce around as much as it did. It doesn't take away all the drop but its def better. Can't wait for the snow to fly tonight!


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

> The factory designed it to ride on the "bumpstops" in a factory config. This is why some people claim a rough ride when they raise the torsion bars and add timbrens, because then the suspension "jumps" up and down on the "stops".


Well when my plow is not attached, the suspension does not rest on the Timbrens either. But with the plow on, it sits on them. This is what I like. Unladen the ride is pretty much the same as it was without the Timbrens, but loaded the front suspension does not sag as much as without them.


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## Plowinpro03 (Dec 18, 2007)

saabman;486701 said:


> Well when my plow is not attached, the suspension does not rest on the Timbrens either. But with the plow on, it sits on them. This is what I like. Unladen the ride is pretty much the same as it was without the Timbrens, but loaded the front suspension does not sag as much as without them.


I most have my torsion bards cranked to far up ....with my plow up..i still have some clearence, my truck doesn't ride on them at all..only on bumps..


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Here are some picture I took today:

Moving the plow up and down, total front end drop is almost unnoticeable


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## jssierra (Jul 10, 2007)

saabman;484051 said:


> Nah, was a 1.5 hour job. Should have been a 1 hour job. Since I have the tools, I dont screw around when the going gets tough. Grinder was used because the backing plate on the factory bump stop had fused to the support. I should point out my pics show the install on a 1500 rather than a 2500.


Great post 
I'm trying to put them on a 93 1500. Was the area inside the support flat. The surface where the standoffs go on mine are not flat. It almost looks as if an inner plate has fused itself to the support. If that is what you were talking about, how did you get the surface flat.


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## ticki2 (Jan 10, 2006)

saabman;484038 said:


> This fall when I did the job I took a few pictures too
> 
> Aside from the hand tools, I found a use for (now mind you my truck is a 97 and the factory bump stops were very stubborn to remove)
> 
> ...


Saabman , is it posiible to mount the bent plate on the bottom of the frame mount so the timbren contacts the LCA? Picture 3


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

> Saabman , is it posiible to mount the bent plate on the bottom of the frame mount so the timbren contacts the LCA? Picture 3


Sure, the TBAR preload position determines the contact point. I should point out that the LCA did not contact the factory stops before Timbren install, so I do suspect my TBARS were tweeked some by the previous owner.

Most folks here talk about raising the front end, but you could certainly lower it to make the LCA contact the Timbren. BTW, I dont find that the come on harsh. It takes quite a bit of deflection when the plow is not on the truck for them to contact.


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## ticki2 (Jan 10, 2006)

saabman;499626 said:


> Sure, the TBAR preload position determines the contact point. I should point out that the LCA did not contact the factory stops before Timbren install, so I do suspect my TBARS were tweeked some by the previous owner.
> 
> Most folks here talk about raising the front end, but you could certainly lower it to make the LCA contact the Timbren. BTW, I dont find that the come on harsh. It takes quite a bit of deflection when the plow is not on the truck for them to contact.


Thanks for the come back . Not sure if I was clear . By putting the bent timbren bracket below the frame mount it would lower the timbren and keep the preload position of the TB up and still maintain contact.


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## saabman (Sep 20, 2007)

Ah, I see now. But look at how the bracket would load that way. It would essentialy pull the bent Timren bracket away from the OEM mount. Whereas mounted as shown the bracket "turns in" to the OEM mount under load.

I kind of like it the way it is for everyday use. This truck does most of its work in the summer pulling my race trailer. So setting it up for winter is a compromise. I dont plow commerically, but I have a big paved drive and parking areas.


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## 02DURAMAX (Dec 27, 2006)

I Hope to buy mine soon:bluebounc


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## AWLCO (Nov 25, 2007)

I did mine in about 15 minutes on my 04. I didn't even take the wheels off. What a difference. I will probably do the rears soon.


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## M&M (Sep 8, 2008)

I finally got around to installing timbrens on my truck in my signature this morning. I decided to measure from the wheel fender to the ground and noticed that the passerger side was 1/4" higher than the driver's side.

Also, my truck rides on the timbrens without the plow on. I do not have any information on where the t-bars are set.

Should I level out the truck side to side by adjusting the t-bars or leave it alone. I can't tell a difference in ride quality but I also don't really pay attention to that kind of stuff. Maybe I don't have enough experience to tell a difference. If I do crank the t-bars do I need an alignment?


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## bowtie_guy (Jan 1, 2004)

Nice, I will have a set for next year.


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## deere615 (Jun 1, 2007)

I am definetly getting some for my truck. But I think I want to get them for the back too since I only have a 1500. Hopefully they will make a difference in the back when hauling topsoil and stuff


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