# Ball Joint Stuck. Need help fast



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

I'm putting new upper ball joints on the truck. the shaft on the left side popped right out, on the left, I'm having tons of trouble. I have pretty much destroyed a pickle fork, bent it out of shape, and and tried using a huge pry bar. What should i do next? heat it with a torch? cut it with a grinder? I thought of using a pitman arm puller but there's not enough clearance to get the bolt in it. Thanks in advance


----------



## partsguy08 (Sep 1, 2008)

What shaft? The axle shaft?


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

the shaft on the ball joint. whatever its called. the bolt that slides into the steering knuckle


----------



## partsguy08 (Sep 1, 2008)

Those are press in ball joints. The service procedures tell you to remove the entire control arm and use a shop press to remove the ball joint. You are working on the truck in your post right? 2000 new body 2500hd?


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

its a light duty. and even if i want to take the entire arm off to take it to a shop, i still need to separate the all joint from the knuckle. its a 2000 silverado 2500ld, ld the hd.


----------



## partsguy08 (Sep 1, 2008)

If there is any pressure pushing the upper control arm it won't come out. Try taking off your outer tie rod end if you haven't already. Sometimes things get overlooked. step back and take a break. if the other side basically fell out, this side should too


----------



## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

Do you mean the drag link ??? Or the actual upper ball joint????


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Place a pry bar between the upper control arm and steering knuckle to exert pressure on the ball joint stud between the two, and while holding that pressure whack the steering knuckle with a BFH on it's side right where the ball joint goes through the knuckle. See pic...


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Thanks guy's ill see what I can do in the morning


----------



## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Ya beat me to it. Never had one refuse to let go with the BFH in use.



B&B;820341 said:


> Place a pry bar between the upper control arm and steering knuckle to exert pressure on the ball joint stud between the two, and while holding that pressure whack the steering knuckle with a BFH on it's side right where the ball joint goes through the knuckle. See pic...


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Well guys i tried all that, still no luck. i think I'm goin to have to take the axle out so I can have enough clearance to get the jar puller under the knuckle. wish me luck


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Either you're not getting enough leverage on it with the pry bar, you're not hitting it in quite the right location, or you're just not whacking it hard enough with the BFH because I've yet to have the method not work in 20 years. It's the last resort that never fails. wesport


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

B&B;821149 said:


> Either you're not getting enough leverage on it with the pry bar, you're not hitting it in quite the right location, or you're just not whacking it hard enough with the BFH because I've yet to have the method not work in 20 years. It's the last resort that never fails. wesport


interesting....ill take some pictures in a few and show you where im hitting. it seems like the pickle fork is maxed out almost.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Please don't be offended, but the nut is off, correct? Can you lift up the lower a-frame with a jack, shim between the UCA and the down travel limiter, then let the jack down to put some tension on the joint? Might actually want the nut on for a few threads for this.


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

im gonna go snap a few, ill make sure i have them posted tonight but i gotta head out. on my bicycle :crying:


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Forget about the pickle fork Chris, use the pry bar. The pickle fork just gets in the way and won't provide enough pressure with the space you're working in anyway. That's likely why it isn't coming apart for you.


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

I've already tried using the biggest pry bar i have, even tried stand on top of it! here are the pics. teh red arrow is where im prying, the X is where I'm hitting


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Remove the lower shock bolt so the suspension can fully hang on the upper control arm's bump stop. This will allow the weight of the knuckle to "hang" on the ball joint stud. Also disconnect the tie rod. Then turn the knuckle fully and whack it HARD where your yellow X is. It'll come apart.


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

ill try that tomorow. maybe ill have my friend hold the pry bar while swing the hammer. the thing that really bugs me is that this isn't even the side that needed to be replaced! I was just trying to do the right thing and replace both sides


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

I went out and grabbed a 60" pry bar. I had to stand on it to get any results, and even then it didn't break free of the knuckle! The ball joint itself just popped apart. just took a few swings with the BFH right on the stud and it knocked free. Now it time to do the idler arm and pitman arm. I'm not looking forward to it. Think it's worth paying to have them done? Both have to be done before the truck can be realligned


----------



## IHI (Nov 22, 2003)

chcav1218;821914 said:


> Think it's worth paying to have them done? Both have to be done before the truck can be realligned


I'm a go getter like most of us are and hate to part with my money like most of us do, but after years of getting myself into situations like this i finally said enough is enough, it makes more sense for me to go out and work, deal with THOSE headaches and pay somebody else to fight this kinda crap for me.....8yrs of never touching my work trucks/daily drivers and i could'nt be happier LOL!! So much other stuff to worry about...fighting mechanical things aint one of'em!!!


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

The idler arm should be easy. Pitman arm can be challenging. Best bet is to use a cutting wheel to split the end of the arm on the steering box.


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

I needed an alignment after all the new parts, so I got one this morning. The truck stays in a straight line, but the steering wheel is till cocked to the right. When I center the wheel, the truck continues straight ahead. Whats causing this? Again, the idler and pitman arms a new. Is it just a bad alignment?


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Check the steering box for excess play. Anything more than approx 2"- 2 1/2" of back and forth play (at the steering wheel) is excessive.


----------



## JCByrd24 (Oct 19, 2005)

The pressure + good, well placed whack has worked for me a few time, but I bought one of these for ~$15 at HF and it works every time in 2 minutes.


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

B&B;828763 said:


> Check the steering box for excess play. Anything more than approx 2"- 2 1/2" of back and forth play (at the steering wheel) is excessive.


well theres only play when im driving, not parked. but i would say its atleast 2 1/2"


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Since everything else is tight (it is now correct?) it needs a box.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

You have not mentioned lower ball joints or tie-rod ends. What kind of shape are they in?


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

lower balljoints and tie rods are all solid. box as in new steering box?


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

chcav1218;829575 said:


> lower balljoints and tie rods are all solid. box as in new steering box?


New or reman depending on your budget or wishes. A new one would be best but they're a bit pricey in comparison to a reman unit. As they can be had for around $200 vs nearly 4 bills for a brand new one.

I'd give the steering and suspension one last thorough look over before I replaced the box though. You've already done 95% of the usual wear components but you may find something else that was previously overlooked and you want to be sure before throwing a box on it. Control arm bushings or loose upper control arm bolts (from the alignment shop) just as examples. Have a helper wiggle the steering wheel while watching for any play in all the suspension and steering connecting points. If something shows up you'll see it.


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

I'll look through everything tomorow. If I do end up needing a new box I'll have to settle for a remanufactured one. I can't afford to throw $400 at it right now


----------

