# Time for a body off rebuild



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

This summer I am going to overhaul the 1981 Chevy. Frame is decent, motor runs great. The truck drives excellent. Body, not so much. The cab is badly rusted, particularly the rocker, cab corners, and floor boards/front cab mounts. Drivers window barely works, big dents in pass door and bed. Non matching fenders, on and on. So I bought an 85 1/2 ton 2wd for the body. Unfortunately I looked at it in the dark, and had someone else go pick it up. The body isn't terrible, but needs some work before swapping. Drivers side rocker, cab corner, maybe front cab mount. Pass side floor. Fenders and bed are fair. My priorities for this summer are to get the frame and cab in very good shape, and never have to work on them again. I want the job to look decent, but don't intend to go to any shows.

Questions: 
Do I need a mig welder for the body work, or would a non-gas wire feed be okay? Or even pop rivets.
What should I treat the frame with? I see several POR products on the net. And are there any places that should be gusseted?
Will the 2wd cab clear the transmission and transfer case? TH350 and NP205. I'm thinking about a 2" body lift while i've got it apart.
Any other suggestions out there? I will probably replace all the steel lines - brakes, fuel, tranny cooler.

Thanks for any input, Palmer.


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Hopefully you have a flame wrench ( cutting torch ). It's the best tool for taking it apart at times. Keep the garden hose close and charged ready to put out the fire. If Chevy is anything like Ford,, there will be some little changes, mounts or positions in stuff from year to year. At least that's what I have found transplanting stuff into a different year vehicle. Mating the wire harnesses may be a problem or not. Might try a welding forum for sheet metal welding. There are books, available at the local library. Rust Reformer and Black Rustlium can be your friend.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Pulled the body off the 85 yesterday. Pretty simple job. Going to need to do some bodywork on the cab floor, but everything else looks decent. I'll keep you posted as the job progresses.


----------



## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

How about some pics !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

yeh this definitly needs some photo updates as the job progresses. I bet we'd all like to see somebefore and afters. Good luck and have fun


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

hey feel free to pm me if you want and look at the pics in my album. i've been threw this plenty of times! you're gonna run into small issues more than likely but, nothing you wont be able to fix. best of luck to ya


----------



## BigDave12768 (Nov 17, 2006)

2COR517;779171 said:


> Pulled the body off the 85 yesterday..


Are you practicing so some day you can buy an 08 Powerstroke?


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Had some other things going on lately, so this project has been on the back burner. My neighbor swapped me an 84 Sierra Classic for some plowing I did last winter that I didn't plan to charge him for. Going to start tearing it down tonight. I think it's actually in better shape than truck I bought. Don't tell my wife.  It has the nice 4 headlight grill and a nice interior. I will post some pics of the fleet soon. I have plenty of "before" pics.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

2COR517;782847 said:


> Had some other things going on lately, so this project has been on the back burner. My neighbor swapped me an 84 Sierra Classic for some plowing I did last winter that I didn't plan to charge him for. Going to start tearing it down tonight. I think it's actually in better shape than truck I bought. Don't tell my wife.  It has the nice 4 headlight grill and a nice interior. I will post some pics of the fleet soon. I have plenty of "before" pics.


i just realized ur in maine. anywhere enar lebanon? when you're done don't throw anything out without seeing if justchevytrucks.com will take the stuff off your hands or, if you need anything you aint got try given them a call


----------



## dellwas (Oct 16, 2005)

Well, I've got a Lincoln migpak, but I've been using flux-core (I know I should break down and get gas). I'm not a great welder, but the sheet metal I've been putting on is going pretty good. Key is to turn down the voltage and hit it in different spots with a quick blast. I stitch it about every three inches, let it cool, make more stitches closer together, let it cool, and so on, till it is joined. Haven't blasted many holes through yet....



2COR517;778941 said:


> This summer I am going to overhaul the 1981 Chevy. Frame is decent, motor runs great. The truck drives excellent. Body, not so much. The cab is badly rusted, particularly the rocker, cab corners, and floor boards/front cab mounts. Drivers window barely works, big dents in pass door and bed. Non matching fenders, on and on. So I bought an 85 1/2 ton 2wd for the body. Unfortunately I looked at it in the dark, and had someone else go pick it up. The body isn't terrible, but needs some work before swapping. Drivers side rocker, cab corner, maybe front cab mount. Pass side floor. Fenders and bed are fair. My priorities for this summer are to get the frame and cab in very good shape, and never have to work on them again. I want the job to look decent, but don't intend to go to any shows.
> 
> Questions:
> Do I need a mig welder for the body work, or would a non-gas wire feed be okay? Or even pop rivets.
> ...


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

SKYNYRD - Thanks for the link. I need to look their sight over. I have a friend with a true MIG, so I am all set with that now.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

2COR517;782958 said:


> SKYNYRD - Thanks for the link. I need to look their sight over. I have a friend with a true MIG, so I am all set with that now.


you are very welcome! kurt is absolutely awesome to deal with. i'm in an area of ny where people don't want to give you the time of day. i first dealt with just chevy trucks on ebay and took the time to personaly visit them 2 summers ago. it was over a 4 hour drive but well worth it! if you deal with them at all i hope you find them every bit as helpful as i did:salute:


----------



## adksnowo (Dec 14, 2005)

2x & 4x cabs are sort of the same. Floor tunnel in middle of cab is "high tunnel" for 4x driveline, x-case, etc. 2x's had "low tunnel", so floors are slightly different.

BTW you might need to use a mig welder, so you can use .023 wire & shielding gas, nice clean welds that way. Remember you don't have to be a good welder, just a good grinder and bondo artist to make it look good.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

adksnowo;783113 said:


> 2x & 4x cabs are sort of the same. Floor tunnel in middle of cab is "high tunnel" for 4x driveline, x-case, etc. 2x's had "low tunnel", so floors are slightly different.


Going to put a 2 or 3 inch body lift on, just to be sure I don't have any issues. TH350 should be the same height either way, but the NP205 is going to be tight.



adksnowo;783113 said:


> BTW you might need to use a mig welder, so you can use .023 wire & shielding gas, nice clean welds that way.


Got a friend with one. I did a swap with a motor I had for a plow he needed.



adksnowo;783113 said:


> Remember you don't have to be a good welder, just a good grinder and bondo artist to make it look good.


Excellent advice

Some pics going up tonight.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Here's the beast. Not pretty, but does the job.















Some of the reasons I bought the truck
The main reason, TBI







Tilt column is nice. The wheel is from a Cavalier, I think







NP205


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

adksnowo;783113 said:


> 2x & 4x cabs are sort of the same. Floor tunnel in middle of cab is "high tunnel" for 4x driveline, x-case, etc. 2x's had "low tunnel", so floors are slightly different.


Unless it's an '84 or newer. By '84 both 2 and 4WD used the taller tunnel.



2COR517;783118 said:


> Going to put a 2 or 3 inch body lift on, just to be sure I don't have any issues. TH350 should be the same height either way, but the NP205 is going to be tight.


 You should be fine since your donor cab is an '85 it should have the tall tunnel. It's easy enough to look. As long as it really is an '85.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

*A few more pics*

14 bolt semi floater rear, open, 4.10, 1 ton spring pack.








If I scratch +16, does that make it a Dana 60?








New front driveshaft, 4 leaf one ton springs up front, bummer of a crimp in the Wye pipe








One of the donor trucks. Gonna use radiator core support, grill, lights, etc. Might use cab, good doors.








B&B - I'll get some pics of the tunnels. The 84 & 85 seem small, but there is a little extra hump just under the seat, where I presume the transfer case would be. The one on the 81 now, which was supposedly an 85 cab, is huge.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

that donor truck looks real decent. not positive what year they started it but you should find (for lack of better terms) "dotted lines" on the center of the floor hump for the 4wd shifter and the standard tranny shifter. i know the 88 cab we used on ours had them. took the guessing out of where to make the hole.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Did a little dubbing around tonight. Any suggestions getting the cab mounting bolts out? I have one that is spinning free inside the channel. It doesn't seem there is any value heating the bolt since the bushing is almost two inches thick. Should I play it safe on the rest of them, and cut the heads off so I can heat the bolt and get penetrant on the threads? What about drilling a small hole in the channel and lubricating the threads that way?


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

2COR517;783215 said:


> Did a little dubbing around tonight. Any suggestions getting the cab mounting bolts out? I have one that is spinning free inside the channel. It doesn't seem there is any value heating the bolt since the bushing is almost two inches thick. Should I play it safe on the rest of them, and cut the heads off so I can heat the bolt and get penetrant on the threads? What about drilling a small hole in the channel and lubricating the threads that way?


we got lucky with the bolts on our donor cab. they all came out. on our old cabe i used the sawzall and a heavy duty blade to cut them off. i would try to cut the heads off the bolts on the donor cab then soak them real good after you roll the cab off. at that point you can soak em then heat em up real good and turn them with vise grips. now, the one that is spinning... is it one of the back bolts i hope? if so you can cut a hole from the inside and get to the nut. putting a new one on will require a regular nut and bolt but it's no big deal


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Hey Skynyrd (I love that username), thanks for the reply and tips. I'd rather sacrifice six bolts and know that I can get them out. Probably going to do the body lift, so I'll need longer bolts anyway. Yes, the spinning one is on the back. So your saying cut a hole on the front vertical surface? How big does the hole need to be? I'm guessing two inches wide, and almost as tall as the channel. The horizontal cuts will be easy with a cutting wheel. How about the verticals?


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

2COR517;783224 said:


> Hey Skynyrd (I love that username), thanks for the reply and tips. I'd rather sacrifice six bolts and know that I can get them out. Probably going to do the body lift, so I'll need longer bolts anyway. Yes, the spinning one is on the back. So your saying cut a hole on the front vertical surface? How big does the hole need to be? I'm guessing two inches wide, and almost as tall as the channel. The horizontal cuts will be easy with a cutting wheel. How about the verticals?


thanks, it's a nickname an old friend gave me

providing you cut the bolt the hole really only has to be wide enough for you to get your fingers in there but, i'm jus sitting her thinking. if you put the new bolt from the top and put the nut on the bottom then the hole only has to be big enough for the socket to fit i don't believe you have to cut the side at all. just the top of the chanel. if i get a chance tomorrow i'll find all my pictures and see if i can photoshop a diagram of sorts for you oh, you're also welcome for the tips, i'm glad i can help someone out. it's a job that seams real easy since everything looks the same but it can be a pain lol.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Click - you meant inside the cab. Duh. That makes more sense than cutting the side of the channel. What does the nut inside look like? Is it (supposed to be) a regular nut welded to a square of steel? I could just use a hole saw as long as I know what diameter I need.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

2COR517;783230 said:


> Click - you meant inside the cab. Duh. That makes more sense than cutting the side of the channel. What does the nut inside look like? Is it (supposed to be) a regular nut welded to a square of steel? I could just use a hole saw as long as I know what diameter I need.


i'm not positive here since it's been a while but, i am pretty sure it's just a rectangular piece of steal that was tack welded in place. i don't remember it being a regular hex nut. i don't have the pics i thought i did but i think these will help. not sure if my cab was sitting in the right spots yet but match up your mount to the indent in the back panel of the cab then go to that part of the inside and put the hole in the top of the flat part that meets the back of the cab....


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

I can drill a tiny hole up through to get my bearings. Just curious how big to go, really only get one chance with hole saws.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

i'll keep looking threw my pictures to see if i can find something better. what you could do is cut a hole in the old cab since that ones goin to the scrap heap anyway right? that way you got 2 shots before the hole that counts i gotta hit the bed, i'm exhausted:salute: enjoy the rest of the weekend


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Not much of an update, but I did fire up the 81 today. Been sitting for at least three months. Tossed in a fresh battery, hit the key and she fired up nice and smooth. TBI Rules! I'm so glad I bought this truck. After putting in a gallon of ATF, I ran her up and down the driveway a couple times, and out on the road to the corner and back. Tearing down the second donor truck this week if it ever stops raining. Also have a line on another parts truck. 78 1/2 ton Chevy with Full Time 4WD. Has a Fisher QS in really nice shape. I can sell the blade for more than the truck will cost, and keep the pump, valve, push plates, headgear. And someone else already wants the 12 bolt rear and D44 front. It has a TH 350, a spare would be nice as indicated in the slight leak I have. Should have some pics of the 81 coming apart in a couple of weeks.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

i miss tearin these trucks down. dad used to get them for free all the time from ppl just given them away, haven't seen that in years though. glad things seam to be workin out for you


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Started tearing down the 84 tonight. That's the black one in the pics. Pulled the hood, front bumper, fenders in and out, radiator, grill, core support, doors, bed bolts, front cab mount bolts, disconnected all wiring from the motor, pulled the power steering box and pump, and a few other little things. Did this in the driveway in less than four hours after work. After I lift the bed, I need to sawzall the rear cab bolts, and that will come off. Motor and tranny and I'm done with this one. Motor is sold, Tranny is listed. 

Two "mechanics" started tearing the 85 down for me earlier this year, I finished it a month or so ago. They took at least four hours between them. They undid the bed bolts, pulled the hood, undid the three rear bolts on the fenders, took the dash all apart (I have no idea why), pulled the radiator, and undid some wiring. It really messed me up too. The fenders took a pounding from opening and closing the doors, and getting them out around the front bumper. :realmad: Oh well, live and learn.

The core support is completely stripped, ready for sandblasting. It's not perfect, but will definitely do. It's all I really wanted from the truck anyway. The doors are great, so that's a bonus.

For those of you that have done this before, is there a correct/proper procedure for the front clip? When I did the 85, I took off the front bumper last. Had a heck of time getting the fenders out. I actually scratched them up pretty good. This time I took the bumper off first. It wasn't fun, but the rest of the job seemed much easier.

Sorry there's no pics, but nothing exciting happening with this one.Once the 78 is torn down, and all the scrap is hauled off, I will be tearing the 81 K20 down. There will be plenty of pics with that.

Best part is that I had a great time tonight.  I "encouraged" my 16 year old son to help. I think it's important for young people to know what real work is, and have an idea of what's in an automobile. I have him help me with roofing too. I want him to understand the value of a good degree. He's a computer genius, I want him to follow through.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

as long as your boy has fun that's all that really matters i'm actually more use to taking the entire clip off in one piece minus the hood. we've always taken the fenders, wheel wells and radiator support off as one piece. are you using aftermarket wheel wells or fenders? we've found it's best to put the radiator support on first then mount the wheel wells to the fenders first before putting the fenders on. oh, don't crank the radiator support down, just put the bolts in to hold it in place. don't tighten anything for real until the cab is on. it can be a pain to square everything off but patience is key really lookin fwd to pics


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Its good to hear that your having fun and have gotten your son involved. Thats how you get them started, as many of us were. 

When your ready to re-assemble be sure to install the door FIRST and then move onto the front sheet metal. This will allow you to work with getting the door alignment good with the cab while you have easy access to the hinges. Then once your ready for the front sheet metal use the following assembly sequence:

1) Install the rad support (leave it loose like mentioned).
2) Loosely attach the wheel wells to the fenders and loosely mount them onto the truck.
3) Attach the front valance panel to both fenders but leave it loose so you can still adjust the fenders while working on the fender to door gap.
4) Get the hood installed and now your ready to make all your final adjustments to get all your gaps looking good.

5) And lastly install the bumper.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Thanks for the comments. I'm not sure he would describe it as fun, but I'm sure when he's older he'll look back on it with fond memories.

I was going to put the cab on first. It's alot easier to get to the motor wiring without the fenders. Then the core support, then the fenders. Of course leave the six big bolts loose till everything is lined up. Bumper last. Re-assembly is a ways off, so I've got some time to figure it out.

B&B, you beat me to it again!


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

2COR517;784828 said:


> B&B, you beat me to it again!


What can I say..I'm quick...with a keyboard.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

hey B&B hit me with a hammer lol, how could i forget to tell him to get the doors on first good thing ur around to correct human mistakes:salute:


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

B&B;784829 said:


> What can I say..I'm quick.


There's a joke there, but I'll stay away from it


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

2COR517;784831 said:


> There's a joke there, but I'll stay away from it


Fixed...


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

B&B;784834 said:


> Fixed...


very quick lol


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Speaking of having the son help:
I converted a Bronco II from carbed 5 spd to EFI auto. Taking parts off a donor Ranger with a torch. I give the son the job of putting out the fire I no doubt will start. He's standing behind me with a charged garden hose. I am cutting, I hear fire, fire, FIRE! and I am wet down with ICE COLD WATER. I told him next time let me move out of the way before you let loose with the water!


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

MickiRig1;785408 said:


> Speaking of having the son help:
> I converted a Bronco II from carbed 5 spd to EFI auto. Taking parts off a donor Ranger with a torch. I give the son the job of putting out the fire I no doubt will start. He's standing behind me with a charged garden hose. I am cutting, I hear fire, fire, FIRE! and I am wet down with ICE COLD WATER. I told him next time let me move out of the way before you let loose with the water!


That's funny. Sounds like something my boy would do. When I turn around he would have a silly grin on his face.


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

It's right up with his sister and him teaching his little brother to fill his super squirter with ice water from the fridge. I was coming down a ladder from the edge of the roof 30 foot up. Suddenly I get an S sprayed on my hot back with ICE WATER. I slide down and land at the bottom and hear a little voice laugh and he runs off !

I then asked them if Dad is unconscious and injured what will you do?
They looked at each other in confusion. What?
_Call 911,_ _oh yeah _OK we forgot what to do?


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Sorry, no pics yet but a quick question. When I put my new rocker panels in, do I weld them up tight, or leave the "vents" open so they can breath?


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I would think you would leave them open so any water could drain out. Get a little air movement to dry any moisture that gets in.


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Leave the drain slots open for drainage. Doing so also provides easier access to get the FF in there from time to time as well.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

That's what I was thinking. I'll have to rig up a nozzle on the end of a tube to get FF in there regularly.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

B&B;787472 said:


> Leave the drain slots open for drainage. Doing so also provides easier access to get the FF in there from time to time as well.


genius! i know what i'm doing once i get the time to FF the undercariagexysportxysport


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Can you buy it in bulk? Not in spray cans? Use a garden pump up sprayer and just go to town. Wear a painters mask so you don't inhale the mist.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

MickiRig1;787723 said:


> Can you buy it in bulk? Not in spray cans? Use a garden pump up sprayer and just go to town. Wear a painters mask so you don't inhale the mist.


you can buy it spray can, brush can, pump spray bottle, 1 gallon, 5 gallon and, 55 gallon drumxysportxysportxysport

undercoating guns are sposed to work real well for th ebulk form. i bought one but haven't used it yet


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

MickiRig1;787723 said:


> Wear a painters mask so you don't inhale the mist.


Micki, that's half the fun of FF


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Well it does look like something a heavy smoker would cough up when it's built up on a surface.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

*This is not pretty........*

Here is the 78 K10. The fellow that sold it to me is keeping the 350. Claims it is a 4 bolt. Bought the truck mostly for spare parts. The Fisher gear is great shape. I'll have to see if there is a year on it anywhere, I have to believe it was one of the last years they did conventional mount. Push plates are perfect, just need paint. Push beam is too small, I will sell that along with the 7.5 blade. It's easy to see how Fisher built their reputation. This stuff is well engineered and well built. Seller claims the valve body will hold the blade up, and the pump doesn't need to be revved up to get the blade to move. We'll see, LOL.

Truck has a TH350. If time allows, I want to rebuild it and put it in my 81. The NP203 would make a good boat anchor, I guess. I have a kid coming to get the 12 bolt and D44 Thursday. If he shows, he'll be the first person out of dozens I have talked to that want parts AND have money. I have the cab and grill/core listed on Craigslist for a hundred bucks. No pics of course. If nobody calls this week, it's off to the scrapyard. The frame is in excellent condition. No dents/bends, welding, through rust. Just a typical surface rust. I might have to keep and build another truck in a couple years. Shhhh, don't tell my wife.

Anyway, I started tearing this down today. In nine hours I had all the plow gear removed, all sheet metal off, engine/tranny/case out. The damn u-joint bolts (16 of them) took longer to get out than taking the bed off. This was a clean job, too. No wire cutters, sawzall, or cutting wheel. Axles are off, just a frame with springs. The teardowns have been kind of fun, and I've learned a few tricks for when I get to the 81 which won't be long now.

Getting it home was a real adventure. It was about 40 miles from home. I borrowed (always a bad idea) a friends trailer to bring it home. Expired Reg, no inspection. Oh boy, take the back roads. We pushed it on the trailer with a big wrecker (also a bad idea). Put the right front tire up on the fender, denting the top. No big deal, I can fix that later. I got called in to work, so it's hammer time. Maybe ten miles down the road, thump thump thump. Flat tire. Had a spare, but no jack or tools. I changed it record time using the kit in the truck. Decide to slow down a bit, only a 7,500 trailer, Another ten miles or so, I hear a snap and hissing side. This is getting interesting now. I pull in to a post office, back it in the corner. Look around a little bit and see the problem. When we dented the top of the fender, it puckered the inside. It was rubbing on the inner sidewall. When I changed the first flat, I just figured it overheated and riding on the rim chewed it up. Drop the trailer, tongue lock, go to work. Spent about 4 hours trying to find a bias ply tire on a Saturday. Go fix the trailer and get it home. So for the two tires I have to buy, and the work I lost, I could have hired a truck to move it. And saved some green. But where's the fun in that?

Here's some pics of the K10.


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

is the transfer case for a standard or automatic? i would see if kurt at justchevytrucks.com wants it b4 u make it a boat anchor


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

I tried to sell some trannies to Kurt. If they can't test it, they don't buy it. Got it on Craigslist now.


----------



## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

Interesting old trucks! Your 78 could very well have a vintage Fisher, as the light style is from the 70's and 78 was about the first year they did the single joystick with all internal hydraulics as you have. The last of conventional mounts was about 1995. 

They look like great projects there. Lots to keep you busy with! Sandblasting & paint should be all your plows need, maybe with some new hoses & belts. Good luck!

~Kevin


----------



## SKYNYRD (Jan 13, 2009)

2COR517;788440 said:


> I tried to sell some trannies to Kurt. If they can't test it, they don't buy it. Got it on Craigslist now.


makes perfect sense. ask around i'm sure someone can use it in a mud truck or a jeep. they're very popular units still believe it or not


----------



## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I ran into an unused set of those Fisher lights at a suplus store. They wanted $50. I went home and thought about it. I went back and they were gone.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

MickiRig1;788548 said:


> I ran into an unused set of those Fisher lights at a suplus store. They wanted $50. I went home and thought about it. I went back and they were gone.


I hate when stuff like that happens. The lights were pretty rough, they are in the scrap heap right now.


----------

