# reskinning a plow blade



## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Can this be done? I got a used minute mount but the blade is rusted pretty good. I dont have alot of money to get a new blade. I want to try to reskin it. Has anyone done this and could give me some tips on how to do it?I was thinking on cutting off the old one with a torch, Grinding the ribs a little and welding a new piece of metal on. What gauge should I use? Can I go thin to save weight and be able to mold it to the ribs. I know thick metal will be very hard to bend with the ribs. Is there a trick to getting it to roll with it? Or could I just go plastic?


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## jedi1 (Mar 1, 2008)

*why bother?*

i would not try to reskin it, i would disassemble it and hace it media blasted then paint it with a good epoxy primer sealer then the oem paint. i have done this to many westerns and they look good for 3 or 4 years!


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

I would but it is rusted through in alot of spots. Or maybe I could just patch the holes.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Here are some pics its pretty rough. I got it pretty cheap though and it works great.


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## ZoomByU (Jan 25, 2008)

not worth the time or money


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## Elwer Lawn Care (Nov 23, 2007)

just a thought, if you cut it all off, just put 2 layers of thinner steel so that away you can bend it into place, you might have to drill into the steel in spots to fill with weld to hold it. or just put a new piece of steel over the old part without cutting it off, would be easier but might not last as long.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Yea I figured but I'm goin to try anyway. I can get the metal cheap but I dont have alot of money for a new blade.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Elwer Lawn Care;534588 said:


> just a thought, if you cut it all off, just put 2 layers of thinner steel so that away you can bend it into place, you might have to drill into the steel in spots to fill with weld to hold it. or just put a new piece of steel over the old part without cutting it off, would be easier but might not last as long.


Yea that sounds good I might try that.


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## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

Moisture will collect between the two sheets and rot out real fast.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Good point. Any ideas how to bend the metal? How thick should the metal be?


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## Matt L. (Feb 4, 2008)

Get a sheet of 1/4 poly and rivet it to the ribs or carriage bolts. something smooth for the working side of the moldboard. then you can leave the old stuff alone. just a thought.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Yea thats the way I might go. Im not sure yet.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Ok here is a old thread how to reskin a plow it is not the best thread but it does show some pics of how we do it, If you can find a weld shop that can roll some steel you got it. The cost is much cheaper than a new moldboard. http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=33130


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Thats nice I wish he would of added more detail. But oh well Thats exactly what I want to do. Thanks.


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## fernalddude (Feb 15, 2004)

Ok do you have metal working tools? Like cutting wheels, grinders,tourches, welder ? or a weld guy? These are the first things you need. Cutting off the skin down to the frame is easy then you blast the frame down to the metal finish. Roll the new skin and attach it to the frame by welding then just add paint..


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

I do have a welder, torch, grinder, Air compressor with a cutoff wheel and grinder. What I dont have is a way of bending the metal to shape. I think I can figure the cutting the old off and getting it prepped for new metal its just the shape thats got me stumped.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

I also have a 7.5 with a good moldboard but the spring perches have been cut off to the bolts. Would it be easier to fix that one?


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

I did mine with a press brake. Did small brakes about an inch apart until I match the radius. If you could find a 10ft roller that would be smoother but most shops only have 4-5ft ones.

Its definately worth the time to do. I did mine in about a day.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

they sell poly liner's for like $50 from angelos 

it comes with a tube of silicone and all. 

all you have to do is lossen youre cutting edge and place it under it and then clamp it down with youre edge, the just glue it to youre old moldboard. it will not help with the holes but you ain't got nothin to lose. you can also just get a peice of angle iron and go to a farm eq. dealer and get a old peice of baler belt and have a snow deflector...just remember to put the skin on and then bolt the angle to the top of the moldboard to clamp it up top

i have done it to a few of my plows and it works great


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## Quality SR (Oct 25, 2006)

ZoomByU;534587 said:


> not worth the time or money


i agree, wow that has seen it's days. Try spraying some fluid flim on it maybe it will come back to life.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

First of all you can't bolt the skin under the TRIP EDGE. When the plow trips the skin will snap. Doesn't look like there is enough good metal to attach a liner to. 

Second the skin will just trap water and salt between it and the remaining metal making it rust more leading to...

Third the skin on a Fisher is integral to the structure of the plow. Once you cut the skin off you lose points that the trip springs etc are braced to and you will find the remaining assembly is rather flimsy. 

Easy enough and cheap enough to get a sheat of 10-12 guage bent on a brake and weld it back in. It will look like new. 

I will try to find some pics.


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## berlincam86 (Feb 26, 2008)

Thanks for all the help im learning alot. But I think I may just fix that 7.5 foot blade with the spring perch problem. I think It may be easier to do. Just gotta figure out how to do that one. I will get some pics when I can of that one.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

sorry i did'nt realize it was a trip-edge. 

have all fishers always been a trip-edge?


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