# cig plug keeps melting



## highlander316 (Oct 18, 2006)

ok, I have a Whelen Mini 9M light bar, I power it with the accessory plug in the dash. So far this winter, the plug has begun to melt while plugged into the outlet. This has happened twice this winter. Any ideas? I was told to make sure that the plug was firmly in the outlet, and it is. The only other stuff running on my truck are the plow, spreader (when used), and sometimes radio.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

I burnt up two of those accessory plugs last year in my 04. Just hook it up to the aux switch on the dash and wire to the wires in the headboard that run out the third brakelight. No more buring up plugs. There is nothing you can do they will just keeping melting on you. Good luck.


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## jbutch83 (Sep 30, 2002)

You are pulling too much power off of the plug. Need to put it on a dedicated switch, other wise it will keep happening. The light requires more power than the cig plug can handle.


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## glfredrick (Nov 21, 2008)

One thought comes to mind about this issue. If your light bar is melting plugs, think of what it may be doing to the under-dash wiring. It is not that large a wire up to the lighter socket!


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## highlander316 (Oct 18, 2006)

good points here, especially the last one. I'll take a look up under there.


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## sparksrides (Dec 1, 2008)

use a relay, if you just run it to a switch and to a power the switch will take all of the load and it could melt or cause a problem. with a relay the switch only turns on the relay and does it with out using that much power the relay will take all of the abuse and can handle it just my 2 cents


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## millsaps118 (Aug 13, 2006)

I had the exact same thing happen to my AUX socket while running my light bar off it. I ended up hard wiring mine, problem solved. BTW... them sockets are a B!tch to get out if you plan on replacing it.


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## Fourbycb (Feb 12, 2009)

I had the same problem and in talking to an expert on automotive wiring the most common reason that melts your sockets is a proper tight fitting ground. If the socket and cig light plug do not fit tight it will not get a good ground heat up and melt As is a common mistake alot of people make smaller gauge wire and poor grounds will always cause this problem Best advise Hard Wire 12 awg 14 awg min.,Circut Breaker / Relay, and a Switch Rated at least 25amps or better for that model lightbar


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## glfredrick (Nov 21, 2008)

Just a thought... 25 amps on a household circuit go beyond the capability of a regular 120 volt cord, switch or socket, and requires specialty gear that is heavy duty. The average home circuit takes about 15 amps, and 20 amps is max.

Now, factor how much amperage you are pulling through a 12 or 14 ga wire with the 12V circuit. Yes, it is only 12V, but it is amperage that gets the job done, not voltage. In general, amperage creates heat, voltage does not.


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

Just do what I said to do. If you have the AUX button for a roof marker, just use that switch. I have a friend who runs his 48" whelen edge bar off of it and never had a problem. It will cost you $5 for a quick connect and about 30 minute of your time to find the wires in the headboard and run them out the third brakelight. That is why they put it there, simple, fast and full proof...ussmileyflag


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## Cat Man 77 (Jan 31, 2009)

Burkartsplow;767122 said:


> Just do what I said to do. If you have the AUX button for a roof marker, just use that switch. I have a friend who runs his 48" whelen edge bar off of it and never had a problem. It will cost you $5 for a quick connect and about 30 minute of your time to find the wires in the headboard and run them out the third brakelight. That is why they put it there, simple, fast and full proof...ussmileyflag


The way you are saying to wire it is true for the OBS. For the NBS GM says to drill a 1 1/4" hole in the roof to feed the wires thru. iIs it just me or does any ones else have a problem drilling a hole in a brand new truck, and the roof none the less.


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## Pirsch (Jun 1, 2007)

If you don't wanna drill any holes... DON'T!!! Go thru the 3rd breaklight hole. Why would you want a 1 1/4 hole when all you have to do is run a couple wires through? You have plenty of spots to run wires it just takes alittle time to figure out your game plan. I'd hard wire it and put a 20-25 amp switch and inline fuse/fuseible link in.


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## CityGuy (Dec 19, 2008)

Just rewire it with a lot of extra and go under the cab and then come in from the engine compartment.


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

when you remove the socket to replace it wire in a jumper with a 2 wire quick connect hanging out of bottom of dash....get from auto zone...then cut cig cord off and put on light cord....keep portability and no messing around with holes or wires....

it's the connection you need to improve....not the wires...


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## duramaxblade (Feb 12, 2008)

Wow, lots of information. Some good. Some not so...
burkapartsplow has the right idea IF you have the rocker switch in his truck. highlander316, this button only comes if the truck has the plow prep package. Otherwise they don't have it. Most crewcabs don't have them, they just have a storage space there, my 2005 duramax just had a space. Other chevy's have a airbag key-switch, but no aux switch, my 03 duramax has that set up. And yet the other option is both the airbag key-switch and the aux-switch.
If you have that button, definitely hook up to the extra wiring in the 3rd brake light. That will save you lots of problems and it's fused.
If you don't have the button, hard wire it. Positive to the battery. Ground the negative. Pull the positive through the cab for a switch and then back under the truck to the lightbar. If you want to be able to pull it off in the summer, get yourself a 2-prong trailer harness (you could use a three prong if that's all they have), and splice that in under the truck. That way when you want to take it off you can, and those harnesses are pretty rugged.

Good luck...


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