# Plowing a gravel driveway



## peterstaley

A local builder has been plowing my gravel driveway for the last few years, but frequently plows large piles of gravel into the grass along with the snow. He says he can't really adjust the height of the plow to avoid scraping off gravel, especially when the ground is soft (after an early or late snowfall).

Is this true for all plowing services, or does the equipment vary -- do some services have equipment that can adjust the blade's height?

Peter


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## Quality SR

It is not true, all he has to do is lower the feet on the plow to bring the blade up. Thats what they are there for. The only thing is, you are not going to have a "clean" driveway. By raising the plow blade you are going to leave behind snow. But it is alot better then pushing the gravel with the snow.


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## Mick

Yes, you can bump the plow up a couple of inches to avoid "bulldozing" but only to an extent. When the ground is soft, it is very difficult to tell that "just right" point. Now, add in that with the plow angled (which it must be if the run is more than a few feet - depending on snow depth) and one side of the plow will be considerably lower than the other. What this means, is that even the best plow operator will be digging a groove at some point. Then, consider that with the plow raised, the distance between the moldboard and the road is much greater than the variances of the angle of the truck to the road. In other words, if the front wheels go into a dip of 2", the moldboard will dip about 3". If the other side of the dip is on an uphill grade, that makes it worse and the scraping deeeper.

You might want to consider covering your driveway with asphalt to avoid gravel displacement.


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## Quality SR

Good advice Mick. ( How is everything going?) Mick would a rubber edge help?


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## #1 plowtech

a rubber edge will have the same affect for the most part.

i would suggest to adjust the shoes so the blade is off the gravel 11/2 - 2 inches.

will you get a clean driveway? No. you will end up packing the snow harder and harder and with the appropriate temps will freeze nicely and then you could adjust the shoes down to an 1" and get a nice fairly clean drive.

goodluck, Plowtech.:waving:


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## Mick

Hi, Rich. Going ok. As far as a rubber edge, I don't really know as I've never used one. But I think plowtech is right. I doubt it would have any benefit on an unfrozen gravel driveway. The best thing for a gravel driveway is freezing.


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## Quality SR

Good to hear from you. I hope everything is going well. The rubber edge just poped in to my head after i wrote my first post. My dad had the same problem last year, with the guy pushing all the stone in the grass. He told the guy, the next storm put the feet on. He did, they worked pretty good. Like i said there was some snow left, maybe an 1-2" but it was better then nothing. Mick i am sending you a PM


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## RipT

In my 12 years experience with a mile of dirt/gravel road & parking areas a rubber edge helps a LOT. It will still pick up some gravel when not frozen, but much less than a steel edge.

The problem with most feet, is that when the ground is soft (not frozen) they will just dig furrows and not keep the blade edge off the ground much at all. Broad skids (6" wide or so) will do better than "mushroom" style, however.


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## Quality SR

You are right about the feet digging in. But it is still less of a mess with them on. If he owned a truck with a plow, that did only his driveway I would put a rubber edge on. But if your a contractor, that does other driveways with pavement and commercial lots, the rubber edge doesn't get right down to the pavement. It also rides over hard packed snow. Being said, for the time it is going to take to remove the steel edge to put on a rubber. To do only one driveway that is gravel isn't worth it. All he has to do is jump out put the feet on, and slide in 2 pins. Also being the contractor, i would come back in the spring to fix the driveway. Just my $.02


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## DeereFarmer

I've also heard you can split a PVC pipe in half and wrap it around the bottom of the cutting edge. I think that is what I'm going to try this year on my long gravel driveway. I spent almost a week this spring picking up gravel.


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## yamaguy

Yea I could see that working really well.


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## Quality SR

That sounds like a good idea. You would have to drive some screws throught that right? Take some pictures when your done I would like to see that.


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## RipT

Rick is right about a contractor doing other paved drives....rubber edges do not scrape up hard-pack or ice at all. If he had a set of broad flat-bottom "ski" type shoes that he could use just for gravel drives they would work fairly well at keeping the blade up out of the gravel.

I've heard of the split pipe technique, and think a 2" or so steel pipe probably would work pretty well, but I would not expect PVC to hold up at all. Also no good way to attach it.

I replaced the steel cutting edge on a 6 ft skid-steer hydraulic snow blower with a 1 1/2" hot-rolled round bar for use on dirt/gravel road and it works great, but I run slowly and try to keep the unit a bit off the surface to the extent I can.


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## DeereFarmer

RipT;400782 said:


> I've heard of the split pipe technique, and think a 2" or so steel pipe probably would work pretty well, but I would not expect PVC to hold up at all. Also no good way to attach it.QUOTE]
> 
> I was going to use a PVC just as a test and if I like it I'll make up a steel one, but you hit the nail right on the head, no easy way to mount it. I'm going to play around with the idea when winter gets a little closer.


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## Ole Tower

It all depends On the Temperture? when its very COLD & every things Frozen Plowing Gravel is NO Differant then plowing Hot top --but-- when the Ground SOFT? I Don*t Plow them Unless? the Depth is 6 inches or More? as its better to Just Drive throught It & Pack It Down as most Customers Will ***** if? You leave a few inches so its a NO Win Deal I read this Site often & every Plower seems to have His Own Idea? of How to Plow! & We All know! Plowing every Snow Storm is a Chalange Due to What the Snow Is? WET? Blowing? & Drifting? Changing to Rain? & the BAD Ones White Outs? so Its a Personal Decission? of the Plower as To How? He Plows each Storm! as to ME Plowing is an Emergancy Service as every Customer Wants to be FIRST! for what? ever Reason? & On BAD Storms All Plowers Are Taxed to their Limit in attempting to Keep every One Open! which Means! Multi Trips to each Customer where the Storm last for several Days! Dumping several inches Each Day & the Highway Plow fills In the End of Drive several times during the Storm as to US Plowers WE have too Plow Out the Huge Snow Banks left by the Highway Plows! & We have NO Idea? when? the Highway Plows return? so some? Customers may? Arrive HOME only to be Greeted by that Huge Snow Bank Blocking the End of their DRIVE! & Most will Call US & upon Our Arival their Drive is Full of Vehicles! so WE Wait! So We can Plow & if Its Still Snowing? that Means Another Trip Back to Clean it UP! All of the Above COST the PLower Time & Money! & During BAD Stroms Plowers Do Get Tired So I suggest Giving them a Break? as They will be There! as Soon as they Can! & NO they haven*t Fogotten You! & when Spring Does Come! Get Your Shovel & Rake that Gravel back on the Edges of Your Drive! as the Exercise Will Do You a World of Good! --OleTower--


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## Clint

Good thread of info ...thanks!!
I have a 500 foot hardpack drveway, and since I'll just be plowing only my own I'll probably give the rubber edge a try this season.

Clint


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## Quality SR

If that is all you are doing, thats what i would do. Good luck


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## Earl W.

The split 2" steel pipe works great. I first used it last year. 

I only had a sawsall so I had to cut it twice for the right thickness to go over the cutting edge. 

Left it about 8" longer than the blade so I could use bolts or chains on the outside to hold it. 

But the cut wasn't exactly straight so I hammered it on and it held fine for several plows, until I got off the road backing up and it got pulled off the very last plow time. 

I plan to just run bolts horizontally through the pipe left on the edges to compress it on the cutting edge.

I have a hill to plow that we need to plow bare, so when it's really cold and the snow might stick for a few days or longer, I want to be able to remove it easily.

I've tried the shoes even with extra wide feet welded to the bottom and they still gouged in. Also, tried lifting the plow which I know can't be good for the pump plus it's bouncy. 

The pipe is by far the best I've tried.


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## DeereFarmer

Thanks for the ideas Earl.


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## wild bill

*cleanup*

aint nothing a thick checkbook and a lot of concrete cant get rid of !grin and bear it and grab the rake that's what kid's are for .


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## DeereFarmer

I raked all my gravel back by hand on my driveway. I did both sides for about 1/2 mile. It was crazy. Took me four solid days. I'll never do that again. I'm saving up for a powerbroom because it's cheaper than asphalt!


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## SnoFarmer

Earl W.;409858 said:


> . Also, tried lifting the plow which I know can't be good for the pump plus it's bouncy.
> 
> The pipe is by far the best I've tried.


How can that be Hard on the pump?
What is different than it bouncing as you travel down the road?


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## JD Dave

SnoFarmer;410637 said:


> How can that be Hard on the pump?
> What is different than it bouncing as you travel down the road?


I agree. That's how I do it and it works fine. In small storms when the ground isn't frozen, it's better just not to plow the driveway.


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## SnoFarmer

JD Dave;410641 said:


> I agree. That's how I do it and it works fine. In small storms when the ground isn't frozen, it's better just not to plow the driveway.


lol pack it down and let it frezz, chances are the first few snow falls are going to melt by the next day.


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## Peterbilt

Notice how this thread starter hasn't ever posted again? Got his awnser and fired his plow operator.


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## Mick

Peterbilt;411075 said:


> Notice how this thread starter hasn't ever posted again?


Happens all the time. There must be 10,000 people with one post over the years. The thing is, the original poster may not have even stuck around for the first reply. But, the regulars went on and on for pages among themselves, not caring that he isn't even around anymore.


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## DeereFarmer

It's all about learning as much as you can. I'm in the same situation as the origional thread poster, so I'm taking all the advice in!


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## SnoFarmer

Mick;411140 said:


> Happens all the time. There must be 10,000 people with one post over the years. The thing is, the original poster may not have even stuck around for the first reply. But, the regulars went on and on for pages among themselves, not caring that he isn't even around anymore.


The threads take on a life of there own.



First Time Out;411288 said:


> It's all about learning as much as you can. I'm in the same situation as the origional thread poster, so I'm taking all the advice in!


On my personal drive I have approx 430ft of gravel and 75ft of pavement.

I back drag it until the ground freezes unless we get a freak early blizzard. Then I raise it so it is just off the ground.


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## DeereFarmer

SnoFarmer;411340 said:


> I back drag it until the ground freezes unless we get a freak early blizzard. Then I raise it so it is just off the ground.


Thats what I usually try to do, but it's hard with the plow. I have about 1.5 miles of gravel and dirt total, so going backwards the whole time just isn't possible.


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## kcplowmata

If the drive is straight try back dragging


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## Clint

So I'm trying to understand this....back dragging doesn't lift has much stone
along with the snow?
I've got 600ft hard pack that I'll be plowing for the 1st time this year.

Clint
99TJ
Western Suburbanite 7.4


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## Mick

Clint;416314 said:


> So I'm trying to understand this....back dragging doesn't lift has much stone
> along with the snow?
> I've got 600ft hard pack that I'll be plowing for the 1st time this year.
> 
> Clint
> 99TJ
> Western Suburbanite 7.4


That's true - because of the curvature of the moldboard. The down side is that you really can't backdrag very far unless you backdrag at an angle. Then you're going to be gouging the stone with the edge nearer the truck. My advice is to learn to "bump up" the moldboard a couple of inches. That way you take the weight off the ground and don't dig as much.


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## powerjoke

SnoFarmer;410637 said:


> How can that be Hard on the pump?
> What is different than it bouncing as you travel down the road?


Snofarmer i agree with you and Mick 100%= there is no way that is hard on the pump ar more bouncy if someone wants to argue i would love to hear it

We take care of 8mi 2lane gravel with the 5500 w/8611 and he'll put the skis on but that is the only job we put em on for, oh by the was the blade still gets scared pretty bad


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## theplowmeister

I won't plow gravel


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## plowman777

you can do gravel with a fine touch, need to constantly adjust the height
of the plow while driving and leave 1-2 inches of snow. Also minimize the angling to reduce digging in.

I can testify to using pvc pipe..IT WORKED FANTASTIC!
of course it got shredded in a few runs. so metal is the way to go.
takes some work cutting around the plow feet holders etc. not the type of thing you want to do at the last minute!


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## DeereFarmer

plowman777;423857 said:


> I can testify to using pvc pipe..IT WORKED FANTASTIC!
> of course it got shredded in a few runs. so metal is the way to go.
> takes some work cutting around the plow feet holders etc. not the type of thing you want to do at the last minute!


Hopefully I'll get to this project sometime this week, but we'll see.


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## snowpushn420

wild bill;410006 said:


> aint nothing a thick checkbook and a lot of concrete cant get rid of !grin and bear it and grab the rake that's what kid's are for .


 I use my 60" Sweepster powerbroom, I hit all my Mowing accounts in the spring.. Makes for some nice additional income..


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## 04superduty

First Time Out;410620 said:


> I raked all my gravel back by hand on my driveway. I did both sides for about 1/2 mile. It was crazy. Took me four solid days. I'll never do that again. I'm saving up for a powerbroom because it's cheaper than asphalt!


http://www.echo-usa.com/product.asp?Model=99944200620&Category=PROATTACH here is what you need, unfortunately you need to buy the power head first. i used one a couple of years ago to remove alot of gravel from a lawn, i was amazed at how fast it would remove the gravel. it takes almost all the hard work out of putting the gravel back onto the drive. stihl makes something very similar for their trimmers.

For my moms 150ft drive i do not plow it for the first few storms. usually i drive over it a dozen times to pack it down hard and let it freeze. then i do not need to worry about my 1000 lb boat anchor of a plow digging in, given a chance my plow would probably dig to china.


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## canoebuildah

First Time Out;410620 said:


> I raked all my gravel back by hand on my driveway. I did both sides for about 1/2 mile. It was crazy. Took me four solid days. I'll never do that again. I'm saving up for a powerbroom because it's cheaper than asphalt!


I rent a Stihl powerbroom from the local True Value for $45 a day. One long, hard day and I can get three houses done. This spring I will rent it for $30 for a half day twice to spread it out. I did use a four stroke version of the powerbroom last time and it was much easier to use than the 2 stroke.


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## DeereFarmer

I've looked at getting a powerbroom. We have one at work and it's great. The price is a little high, but I might just rent one this year because this is the only job I would have for it. I know my local rental company has a big 4' walk behind one.


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## 04superduty

Firsttimeout i dont know if it possible for your particular drive, but on my moms i only windrow to one side, that way their is only 1 side to clean up. it also helps that that one side i mow with the deck in the transport position.


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## Daner

First Time Out;400766 said:


> I've also heard you can split a PVC pipe in half and wrap it around the bottom of the cutting edge. I think that is what I'm going to try this year on my long gravel driveway. I spent almost a week this spring picking up gravel.


ABS pipe will work better...the PVC has the potential to shatter.

Also If you have the gear to make a steel pipe rigens...weld 1" flat bar tabs on the backside of the pipe and use the good bungie cords to hook it on your plow... This way you can remove it quick...for the paved driveways.


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## DeereFarmer

That's a good idea Daner. I'll have to see what I can come up with. All of a sudden I'm so far behind this season.


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## Earl W.

SnoFarmer;410637 said:


> How can that be Hard on the pump?
> What is different than it bouncing as you travel down the road?


Sorry for the delayed response.

I think it's easier on the pump if it doesn't have weight on it especially when plowing. With tension on the piston and hitting something like packed snow or worse, I think it would be a downward weight and may be harder on the piston. I usually plow on float.

I was thinking of my rig which is old (1969 Scout) and all I plow is a hilly gravel lane. Also, I don't drive it on pavement, front leaf springs are worn and no power steering. So the more the plows on the ground the better it is for me

Besides, holding the plow up seems to start a perpetual bouncing motion and leaves snow for less traction. I was always trying to feather the switch, but some areas it worked okay.

Nothing fantastic, but I got some pictures of my set-up I'll post soon.


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## Earl W.

Pictures of 2" galvanized iron pipe, slotted on one side and bolts through both ends:


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## Avitare

*yard guard*

anyone that wants to see a yard guard, just email me for a picture
we use them all the time
some years we dont take them off.

steel pipe with a slot cut (usually a plazma cutter but sometimes a saw)
with flat stock welded on the end to bolt the pipe to the sides of the plow

I havent seen any shoes up here for years
its either pipe or no pipe(when there is frozen ground and gravel)

havent taken mine off yet but I will take pics both ways tomorrow
and a pic of my backdrag blade.

tc
[email protected]


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## Avitare

*yard guard and backdrag blade*

I havent figured out how to post all the pics in the file and may have to submit
more than one to show angles


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## Avitare

*yard guard*

different angle
pm for more
tc


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## Earl W.

Avitare,

Nice set up.

What size pipe did you use?

What's the purpose of the angle iron behind the cutting edge? Is is factory?


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## Mick

Earl W.;463500 said:


> What's the purpose of the angle iron behind the cutting edge? Is is factory?


I'd say it's an improvised backdrag edge. Pretty ingenious. No, not "factory".


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## butters

*Gravel drive*

I am in the same situation as I plow a 1/4 mile+ gravel road and two 400'+ gravel drive ways around 25 times a year. I don't do commercial (this is my private road and my neighbors drive) so this is the only plowing I do. No concrete or asphalt to speak of so this pipe idea is quite intriguing.

I absolutely hate plowing in the late fall early spring when the temps are high and the ground is soft. No matter how careful you are you are going to tear stuff unless you want to take 2 hours to plow. Since I am not getting paid I have better things to do with my time. I think this pipe thing would work wonders in my situation. I am surprised that someone hasn't made and marketed something like this?

On a side note, I have a Husqvarna power rake and it works great for throwing all the gravel back into the road and fixing the yard in the spring. I was a little skeptical at first but it works quite well. That said if I didn't have to use it in the first place it would be even better.

Anyway, if anyone out there has any more pictures of their "pipe" setups please post them!


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## RipT

Avitare, that is one of the slickest set-up for switching back and forth from paved to dirt/gravel surfaces (plus a simple back-drag edge) I have seen. If I was not doing exclusively dirt/gravel, I would do the exact same thing.

Rip


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## jrglandscape

We have a truck with a pipe over the cutting edge it helps a great deal with the gravel on driveways and private roads.


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## yamaguy

How well does that backdrag edge work avitare? I do one gravel drive, my aunts. That is the only one I will ever do, It's a pain in my no-no special place!


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## magik235

*Yard Guard on Gravel Driveway*

I have an 800 foot sloped gravel driveway. After plowing it for 23 years, nothing has improved my plowing as much as the 2" pipe yard guard. Thank you Avitare for the suggestions.


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## RipT

Magik235...... are you just pinching the pipe to the cutting edge with the bolts on the ends of the pipe? How long does a pipe last before it is worn through? Regular galvanized Schedule 40?


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## Earl W.

RIP,

Mine (see pic above) is standard threaded galvanized pipe, I think sch 40 but I am not sure.

This is the second year and it shows some but very little abrasion.

It has flattened a bit from the weight, which I think probably helps keep it from digging in.

I plow about a mile of gravel on 8-10 times a year, so that's probably not much use compared to WI or CO.


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## Avitare

*Avitare is back on*

Found that I had a few replies about the yard guard and the back drag

The backdrag is alittle higher off the 'ground' with the pipe mounted.
It is simple. Just a 3 in angle (lucky on the first guess) and welded the bolts
that go thru the shoe holes ( if anyone wants to have my shoes --new-- pm me)
Drill the holes, then clamp the angle to the spot you want it, tack the bolt (not 
square to the angle) and then remove to final weld. My welder added a plate
(wisely) to take the load off the bolts.
I could not be more pleased but I may make an adjustable edge --maybe
another plate with slotted holes or a spacer to lower at the bolt points.

The yard guard with plates on the end is easy on and off but I am considering
an added ear on the top to provide a cinch until I get the bolts in place.
Now I put a pipe on the floor and pry up until tight. (need one more hand)

I use the yard guard until it is really cold and the ground is really frozen and we 
arent dealing with wet snow. I dont have any dumping and still get it cleared to
the pavement -- if they havent been driving on it.

To prolong the wear on the pipe-- we add some weld to the worn flat side before
it gets too thin. And the weld helps to cut the snow too.

tc
[email protected]
for more pics


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## Avitare

email me

[email protected]

for pics of my yard guard and my back dragger

tc


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## magik235

Rip: The bolts pinch the pipe to the cutting edge. I cut the 2" OD conduit using a small cutoff grinder. It took three 4.5" wheels to make the two 78" cuts. I do not know how long it will last.


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## lb59

First Time Out;400766 said:


> I've also heard you can split a PVC pipe in half and wrap it around the bottom of the cutting edge. I think that is what I'm going to try this year on my long gravel driveway. I spent almost a week this spring picking up gravel.


I did that and it pulled right off.
It would /might work it there was some way to hold it on


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## 2dogs2

I tend to agree just lift the blade a bit and wait till it freezes. My drive is over 450ft gravel, I am actually investing into a pull behind sweeper for my lawn tractor to pickup the 2b gravel and other stuff. My neighbor has one and swears it picks up everything, he says it may take 2-3 passes but works great. Plus you can dump it where you want..


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## 91AK250

my driveway is prolly 1500ft all gravel, what i do is the first decent storm(decent storm 6-8") i dont plow and just drive around the yard untill its all packed down hard..that way i have a good ice/snow base for the year..and it doesnt melt till april. since doing that i've never had an issue with pushing my gravel all around and come spring its just like it was last summer


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## lb59

04superduty;429269 said:


> [
> For my moms 150ft drive i do not plow it for the first few storms. usually i drive over it a dozen times to pack it down hard and let it freeze. .


don't this just turn it into an ice rink


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## RipT

Glad to hear that standard (schedule 40) steel pipe and conduit is typically lasting several seasons at least. Both the pinch method and the side tab would be pretty simple to fabricate.

The hardest part is slitting the pipe neatly. Most formed tubing and pipe will try to spread when cut, so a single cut may be all that is needed in some cases. A plasma cutter with a good straight edge guide would probably work nice. Probably best to avoid galvanized if you are going to weld or plasma cut it though.


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## Mr_Super-hunky

This is a GREAT thread with lots of useful informative suggestions being given by everyone. It also applies directly to me as I have an approx 1000' cinder driveway to plow in the future (I'm still buried 2' deep and waiting for my plow mount which is backordered!:realmad

Anyway, it seems based on the suggestions given that there are two different schools of thought. 

1.) Leave the first snow on the ground (up to about 6'') and wheel roll it to pack it down and form a hard base. Then in future snows, you don't even have to use skid shoes or a pipe as you have a solid base to protect the gravel.

2.) Use a steel pipe over the cutting edge from the start but because it WILL leave an inch or two on the ground, you will eventually end up packing those remaining inches anyway and still end up in the same situation as mentioned above.

The way I see it, (bear in mind, I have NO plowing exoperience!), the logical thing to do is wheel roll the first few inches forming a solid base and then just plow normal (no pipe) after that.

Of course, this assumes the hard pack frozen base remains just that!. Once the hard pack base starts to de-thaw, all bets are OFF!!. I guess when that happens (mushy ground...i.e fall, spring snows), the only logical choice would be to put the pipe on to minimize the potential *bulldowzing* effect.

Does this sound accurate?


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## RipT

You describe the two major schools pretty well. I vote strongly for the second one since in the real world, that dirt/gravel/rock drive is not going to be perfectly flat & smooth when it freezes-thaws-refreezes, etc. With a pipe edge you are actually helping smooth it out so that when it does freeze up you have a smooter surface to work with.

The pipe edge will also be much better if the road has any rocks, ruts or crown to it. It really is pretty simple to fab one up, and you can always take it off if you really feel the need.


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## Mr_Super-hunky

RipT:

Thanks for introducing a well thought out 3rd category;.....The plow/grade combo!....Genius!.


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## abbert55

I've been reading the threads on the pipe issue. I have used a 1/2" thick A/R (abraision resistant) plate 6" wide and as long as my blade. A welding shop will have this on hand or be able to order it for you. Simply have them break a 22-30 degree angle 1" back from the leading edge and then weld round stock to fasten it where the shoes would attach. This plate glides over gravel, grass, and actually floats your blade. It is very simple to install or remove. 2 pins and throw it in the back of the truck. It will last for several seasons since the square footage is greater than the pipe. Hope this works for you as well, Al


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## Earl W.

The very most my pipe set-up has left was 1/2" and that was not continuous due to the ground not being smooth..like RipT said.

Mostly it leaves a dusting or plows down to gravel.

Our hill gets plowed w/ pipe edge then w/o to get down to bear gravel. Most of the time the only difference is at the crown and edges.

We don't get a lot of snow compared to up north, but when we do it stays for a while esp. if it's packs, so we try to get the snow off as quickly as possible. 

We have somewhat steep slopes so packing the snow down hasn't worked for us. 

I know of a few people that are successful w/ the pack down method but they have super flat driveways and mainly do it to get the small fwd car out later.

abbert55... sounds like your set-up has the best of both worlds by retaining the cutting edge and essentially an angle cutting edge behind it. 

Guess it works like a double blade razor

Got any pictures of your set-up?


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## abbert55

Here is a drawing of my setup. Hope this helps. Send me a PM if you have ?'s
Al


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## Earl W.

The drawing clarifies it. What a great set-up. 

It has essentially the radius of the pipe with much greater surface (I think you mentioned this)area so it won't dig-in.

Looks like it would be a bit easier to take on/off than the pipe.

Now I need to contact a welding shop.


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## abbert55

Earl W.
This setup works well even on thawed gravel and bare ground. When I first experimented with it we used it in the summertime on a gravel parking lot and bare grass to see how much it would tear up the sod.... none. Just be sure to block the A-Frame of your plow up so it can't fall with your hands underneath when installing or removing. This also will grade the gravel somewhat if it isn't frozen. Hope this is helpful, Al


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## 2dogs2

abbert55;487562 said:


> View attachment 32272
> Here is a drawing of my setup. Hope this helps. Send me a PM if you have ?'s
> Al


Can you possibly take a picture and upload it..

THanks


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## abbert55

2dogs2,

Here is a drawing of the mod to the plow. I do not have the one for the meyer plow I made this for. Sold plow and gravelguard. I am getting a new 860 SW next week and will have a gravelguard made for the new one. Just have your weld shop drill holes in the round stock to pin it in place of the shoes. You can use the stock washers to take up the slack as the cutting edge wears down. Just remove the shoes and replace with the gravelguard. Thanks, Al


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## Mr_Super-hunky

Abbert55:

That's a great looking setup. I do a bit of welding and can see how easy it would be to fab up that setup as well. You could simply tack and then spot weld two flat stock metal strips together a the correct angle to form your bottom float bar and then simply weld some round stock to it in the correct location to line up with the shoe holes on the moldboard.

It really is a great and simple design. The only concern I have is if the plow would ride up on harder packed snow without *cutting* into it. I suppose it might, but then again, so would anything other than the raw blade.

I bet your design will be copied and possibly even produced by someone or some company soon as it just makes too much sense!. You may want to RUN to the patent office....QUICK!


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## 2dogs2

abbert55;487942 said:


> 2dogs2,
> 
> Here is a drawing of the mod to the plow. I do not have the one for the meyer plow I made this for. Sold plow and gravelguard. I am getting a new 860 SW next week and will have a gravelguard made for the new one. Just have your weld shop drill holes in the round stock to pin it in place of the shoes. You can use the stock washers to take up the slack as the cutting edge wears down. Just remove the shoes and replace with the gravelguard. Thanks, Al


Thanks Al...

Looks like I have a new project ...


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## abbert55

Super Hunkey,
The gravel guard does not allow the moldboard to trip easily if you were to hit any hard object. Yes, it will ride up over ice or hardpack but the idea is to keep the surface plowed close to grade so as not to build up... IE frequent plowing. Because of the trip issue, no plow mfgs. were interested in the idea because of liability.... bent truck frames, plow frames etc. So I declare this idea free and public domain in hopes to better the plowing world.:waving:
Al


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## MOWBIZZ

I actually went to bid a gravel drive resi yesterday...the client is not happy with her present service, as she says they're sloppy, don't leave a good entry down by the street,etc.
She said on the phone "I have a couple of requirements!" I said ok what are they? 
She wanted the carport back dragged (apparently the guy she has now just pushes by it as it's perpendicular to the driveway) and she also said she needed the entry from the road nice and "opened up" and the driveway plowed "wide" so she can get one wheel on the crown of the driveway...

I said ok I'll be out to look at it. So I goes out there and find the driveway, enter from the roadway and all I can see is rocks, leaves black dirt on both sides...the pavement has all deteriorated and whatever material was put down for paving (fill) is exposed everywhere...the material has been plowed to the edges and into the woods line on both sides...I cringed as I saw this and thought I would just be "dirt plowing" this driveway all the time...I drove up to the house (1/8 of a mile long drive) and looked around the dooryard and that was pretty normal except for the messy plow job from her present guy. At this point I didn't really want to do it but I was there and I thought "I'll bid really high" and forget about it. Well she kind of raised her eyebrows when she saw the estimate of $125 per push and said she'd think about it...I haven't heard back from her as yet...what would you guys have done...keep in mind I have no other gravel drives so rigging a pipe or any other implement would be a hassle for me just for one account.


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## SnoFarmer

I have learned not bid on drives/lots you do not want.
Some times you have to say no thank you and move on.

What if they say yes?
Now your waisting time on a pita account.
jmo?>


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## MOWBIZZ

SnoFarmer;489904 said:


> I have learned not bid on drives/lots you do not want.
> Some times you have to say no thank you and move on.
> 
> What if they say yes?
> Now your waisting time on a pita account.
> jmo?>


You are correct...I decided to initiate the call to her this afternoon and express my concerns over the poor condition of her drive...she understood, and accepted the retraction of my estimate/bid. I advised her to seek out a company to at least grade and add some gravel and maybe something to hold it in place...(binder) but she said she had gotten some estimates and they were very expensive. Never had any of that work done so I am ignorant of the costs, but I know the machines alone are costly to move around and run...I wished her luck and apologized for any inconvenience.


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## Avitare

*pipe replaced today*

I usually can catch the wear on the yard-guard/plow pipe, but went too long
this time. It got too thin to try and add a bead of weld on the worn flat.
I may try to weld a flat plate , sim to what was shown earlier.

So, today we picked up another YG. -- $80.
I will try to catch this one before it gets too thin. 
If we put some hard-stick on the flat, it could last much longer.

and, of course, if it would get cold enough-- the ground and gravel drives 
could freeze and we could take the pipes --off.!!

tc


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## Clint

abbert55;487942 said:


> 2dogs2,
> 
> Here is a drawing of the mod to the plow. I do not have the one for the meyer plow I made this for. Sold plow and gravelguard. I am getting a new 860 SW next week and will have a gravelguard made for the new one. Just have your weld shop drill holes in the round stock to pin it in place of the shoes. You can use the stock washers to take up the slack as the cutting edge wears down. Just remove the shoes and replace with the gravelguard. Thanks, Al


I wonder if I could somehow rig one of these gravelguards up to my Suburbanite 7.4, there
are no shoe pins so that would be the 1st problem. Maybe some other way to attach it.
I plow a 600 foot Hardpack driveway, and we've had a few freez and thaw cycles already, and I was digging up the soil the other day. Taking the plow out of float helped alot today, but a gravelguard like this would solve my problems.


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## RipT

Clint.....look back in this thread and see the slit steel pipes with a "pinch bolt" on each end. You should be fine with a pipe about 4" longer than the cutting edge.

The other concept with the flat bar with the up-turned leading edge would work well also, but some other means of attachment would have to be figured out. One could weld some heavy angle iron tabs to the back side of the blade frame to achieve the same function as shoe mounts.


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## Avitare

dont need shoe holes for the yard guard
we just drill holes in the side and bolt on
tc


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## Clint

Is there a picture or scetch of the YardGaurd avaialble so I can get an Idea what it looks
like? Opps I looked back on this tread and saw your pictures of the YG. Your're using a poly plow with a simalar frame too mine, so I can see how you've figured out a way to fasten this guard.


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## Clint

How do you guys slit steel pipes... seem like a job for a metal shop for me



RipT;510744 said:


> Clint.....look back in this thread and see the slit steel pipes with a "pinch bolt" on each end. You should be fine with a pipe about 4" longer than the cutting edge.
> 
> The other concept with the flat bar with the up-turned leading edge would work well also, but some other means of attachment would have to be figured out. One could weld some heavy angle iron tabs to the back side of the blade frame to achieve the same function as shoe mounts.


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## Earl W.

Clint,

I used a sawsall and cut both sides. took time and two blades. it was a little crooked but fit on with a little hammering. 

Someone here mentioned using a grinder and using several wheels.

I plan on using (borrowing) an abrasive saw for the next one, either gas or electric.


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## RipT

I would probably use a grinder before a sawzall, but since I have a plasma cutter, that would be my first choice. Gas cutting torch would also work. Avoid galvanized pipe, as the fumes from gas or plasma cutting or welding it are very toxic.

Most any welder or fabrication shop should be able to slit a pipe for about a 1/2 hour labor or whatever their minimum charge would be.


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## Clint

RipT;517955 said:


> I would probably use a grinder before a sawzall, but since I have a plasma cutter, that would be my first choice. Gas cutting torch would also work. Avoid galvanized pipe, as the fumes from gas or plasma cutting or welding it are very toxic.
> 
> Most any welder or fabrication shop should be able to slit a pipe for about a 1/2 hour labor or whatever their minimum charge would be.


Ok..very good info guys, I don't currently have a grinder, but there are plenty of metal shops around here, so I'll take a pipe to them this summer, then next season I'll give it a try.


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## mtnzone

Quality SR;400614 said:


> It is not true, all he has to do is lower the feet on the plow to bring the blade up. Thats what they are there for. The only thing is, you are not going to have a "clean" driveway. By raising the plow blade you are going to leave behind snow. But it is alot better then pushing the gravel with the snow.


obviously you dont have many gravel driveways.. in the warmer weather gravel drveways will hump causing you to grab some of the gravel.. this is especially true in the spring......


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## Quality SR

mtnzone;553114 said:


> obviously you dont have many gravel driveways.. in the warmer weather gravel drveways will hump causing you to grab some of the gravel.. this is especially true in the spring......


Wow this is an old thread. 
This thread was started because a guy says " a local guy plows his driveway, and frequently plows "LARGE PILES OF GRAVEL INTO THE GRASS" He also says, " Plow contractor: He cant really adjust the height of the plow to avoid pushing the gravel off his lawn." The homeowner said is this true. My answer was "NO it is not true."

I have plowed gravel lots and driveways. Keeping the feet on will minimize pushing the gravel in to the grass. Also just keeping the blade up off the ground with help against moving gravel. Like everyone has said here. This plow contractor obviously plows other places, may not be all gravel. You really cant fab. anything permanent. Like a rubber cutting edge, or the 2" pipe. The guys here with the 2" pipe use there plow only for one drive way, there own. 
Like you said " in warmer weather gravel driveways will hump causing you to grab "SOME" of the gravel" Yes you are right, SOME of the gravel. Not all of it ( like he is talking about,  ) This contractor just seem to drop the blade and go.
You need to read this thread a little bit more closely. By the way Welcome to Plowsite. :waving:


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## magik235

I removed my plow's old yard guard and installed a new one.


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## Earl W.

magik235;1532257 said:


> I removed my plow's old yard guard and installed a new one.
> 
> What refinements if any have you made on your latest version?
> 
> It looks like you added some intermediate pinch bolts.


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## 07PSDCREW

Just read the thread start to finish....I find it funny that the OP joined and posted his ONE and only post, and here we are 5 years later...:laughing:....apparently it was a good subject!


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## magik235

The pinch bolts on the end did not work for me. I plow rough ground and the protruding ends caught. I switched to using 3 through bolts shortly after I originally installed it and used the same setup this time.


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