# Fine tune the setup...



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

I think i've settled on a Blizzard 760 speedwing. I see there is another user on the site who has the same setup, emailed him to see what he all did, no response. I see he has timbrens, front and rear rancho air shocks and changed his gears to 4.10s with air locker in the rear. I have an 01 with the automatic so from what ive read 4.56 gears, air lockers front and rear, timbrens, and the rancho xl9000 with the remote reservoir should be what i need. Is there anything I'm missing?
Also, the blizzard undercarriage designed by blizzard is made for light duty plows. The speedwing is a medium duty. Since I have a 3.5" lift i would have to fab the brackets as is, but i was wondering what i would have to do besides add lengthening plates to make the undercarriage sturdy enough to handle the plow.

So what am I missing for the suspension, and what do i need to do to the brackets to make them work?

Thanks,
Z


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

Oh and i have the d44 rear option from the factory.

Thanks guys,
Z


----------



## unit28 (Jan 1, 2007)

I have seen a few people recommend contacting storks.

http://www.storksauto.com/default.php

Worth a shot to do more research through them as well.

Good Luck,
Y


----------



## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

OK first off what do you intend to plow ?
and second you dont say what vehicle, an 01 what? XJ, TJ, grand, Ford F350?
The ranch shocks are NOT needed the air part is used to adjust stiffness of the shock. changing the gears is nice but not really necessary. 
get some SNOW tires not all season. I like the Blizzaks.
Personally I would use an air shock that supports the load, like a hijacker instead of the timbrins.


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

Tj wrangler. Sorry bout that. I intend to plow residential drives. The drives are anywhere from 20x30 slabs to 100x16 runs. I plan on doing anywhere from 30-50 of these to start and add more through the next season.


----------



## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

you will need some ballast in the rear. I use a C Chanel that I filed with lead that slides into my receiver hitch. That plow weighs about #585 (Not bad) I used a fisher that weight #630 for 20 years on my YJ -TJ. anyways #300 - #350 of ballast will work good to balance the plow. I have air lockers F and R They are nice.
Your biggest problem will be lack of mas in the jeep (weight gives you traction), so get some Blizzak tires. they make a BIG difference.


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

Thanks for the input plowmeister. Its greatly appreciated. 
I have a 3.5" rubicon express lift on my jeep, with the air shocks, are they adjustable to different heights? And is there anything i will need to do to get the shocks to mount up right?


----------



## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

Air shocks use compressed air (up to 200 PSI to help the springs support the weight of the plow. They can support up to #2,000. I wrote a long post on how to fund the correct shocks.

To use the air shocks you with no air pressure in them and no plow, measure the ride hight of the jeep, put the plow on , add air to the shocks until you end up at the original ride hight. Measure the PSI. when you take the plow off measure the PSI (it will be different than when the plow was on). Now let the air out and you are back to the regular ride hight. now when you want to put the plow on add the air to the PSI you measured without the plow. or after the the plow is on add to the PSI you measured with the plow on.


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

Thanks plowmeister. You've been a huge help.


----------



## redoak (Jan 28, 2009)

*air shocks*

I just installed Monroe Max-air shocks on the front of my '97 TJ. Thanks to Plowmeister and others on this site, I was able to find the shocks that fit (MA 763). It is necessary to drill a 3/8" hole the the side of the upper shock mount to allow the air line to pass through. BTW Monroe recommends a minimum of 20 psi in the shocks even when the vehicle is under normal load.


----------



## cocco78 (Dec 12, 2003)

What size tires are you running? 3.5" lift on an XJ leads me to think your running either a 31 or 32" tire, 4.56's might be to low if you use your Jeep on the highway at all. 4.10's should get you back to "stock" gearing with 31's or 32's. If your going up to 33's or 35's i'd consider the 4.56's then. I've heard lower you go in gearing the weaker the ring and pinion get... Check out this link, http://jeephorizons.com/tech/rpmchart.html


----------



## unit28 (Jan 1, 2007)

as far as running air shocks, yes, always keep some
air in it! Diaphram or seals will rupture without it

I have 3.77 and there's no change in RPM from either 
235/75/15 or 33/12.5/15 I'm at 2000 at 60 mph
88 wrangler 4 inch lift stock diffs 30/35
Now I just need a locker for the front


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

My wrangler is actually an 01 tj. I am running 33's. I do take it on the highway during football season to go from des moines to iowa city which about 100 miles. When my jeep was totally stock, no lift or 33's I got aboutb 14mpg. I've heard changing my gears to 4.56's would put me about 13 mpg. I was planning on putting on a cold air intake, bigger throttle body spacer, and an exhaust. I don't plan on changing my 33's in the winter being that my driveways are mostly flat with maybe an occasional slooped driveway. My list of what I think I need to do is add air shocks, onboard compressor, intake, exhaust, throttle body spacer,and a transmission cooler. Am I on the right track? Anything else I should or shouldn't do? Plowmeister? Thanks a ton guys.


----------



## festerw (Sep 25, 2003)

More info

Rubiclone 1

Rubiclone 2


----------



## cocco78 (Dec 12, 2003)

Niteowl;767497 said:


> My wrangler is actually an 01 tj. I am running 33's. I do take it on the highway during football season to go from des moines to iowa city which about 100 miles. When my jeep was totally stock, no lift or 33's I got aboutb 14mpg. I've heard changing my gears to 4.56's would put me about 13 mpg. I was planning on putting on a cold air intake, bigger throttle body spacer, and an exhaust. I don't plan on changing my 33's in the winter being that my driveways are mostly flat with maybe an occasional slooped driveway. My list of what I think I need to do is add air shocks, onboard compressor, intake, exhaust, throttle body spacer,and a transmission cooler. Am I on the right track? Anything else I should or shouldn't do? Plowmeister? Thanks a ton guys.


Oh, well... For some reason I was thinking cherokee when I posted. I have a TJ with a 5 speed that I ran 33's and 4.10 gears and the gearing was perfect for me. I consistantly got 16-17 with it on the highway if I didn't speed. You have the 3 speed auto, no over drive, 32RH I believe. With 33's and 4.56's your be running 3000rpm @ 65mph. With 4.10's you should be at 2700rpm which is probably close to what you would run with the Jeep dead stock... With my 5 speed, 4.10's, and 33's I was at 2200 rpm at 65, which was nice because when I was stock with 3.73 gears and 30" tires I was at 2100 rpm at 65. Right now I run 5.13 gears and 37" tires and I run 2400rpm at 65 and I feel the motor is really spinning but my drivetrain is so heavy now that I need the extra rpm to keep things moving. But I can still pull 15mpg on the highway with it on a calm day, flat road, 60mph...


----------



## cocco78 (Dec 12, 2003)

unit28;767495 said:


> as far as running air shocks, yes, always keep some
> air in it! Diaphram or seals will rupture without it
> 
> I have 3.77 and there's no change in RPM from either
> ...


Did you correct your speedometer for the tire size change? Because you should see a drop in your rpm at the same speed with the bigger tires. Say you were at 2700rpm at 65 with stock tires, you're probably at 2500rpm at 65 with your 33's.


----------



## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

unit28;767495 said:


> as far as running air shocks, yes, always keep some
> air in it! Diaphram or seals will rupture without it
> 
> I have 3.77 and there's no change in RPM from either
> ...


that 235/75/15 tire is about 28"

and yes without changing your speedo gear no matter what size tire you run the speedo will always say 2000 at 60MPH, you wont be going 60 but the speedo will say that.


----------



## unit28 (Jan 1, 2007)

theplowmeister;767807 said:


> that 235/75/15 tire is about 28"
> 
> and yes without changing your speedo gear no matter what size tire you run the speedo will always say 2000 at 60MPH, you wont be going 60 but the speedo will say that.


ok, make sense to me. I'll run through a school zone and check...LOL
not at 60 though.
Maybe the previous owner did a change in the speedo gear.
I do run both tires seasonally. 235's in winter.


----------



## cocco78 (Dec 12, 2003)

Yeah, your speedo will be 10-12% off when you switch from the 235's to the 33's. If you still have the stock gears and run the 33's at 55mph according to you speedo your really going 10-12% faster... But the good part is the miles on your odometer will not accumulate as fast! LOL


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

When I added my 3 1/2 lift and 33's I have gps in my jeep and my speedometer was off by maybe 1 mile slower. Any ideas?


----------



## theplowmeister (Nov 14, 2006)

Niteowl;768252 said:


> When I added my 3 1/2 lift and 33's I have gps in my jeep and my speedometer was off by maybe 1 mile slower. Any ideas?


Ya Be happy


----------



## Niteowl (Dec 12, 2008)

That works for me. Thanks everyone for all your help.


----------

