# New Truck, New Plow, Mistakes on Install, Seek Advise



## Turbogeno (Nov 21, 2013)

My only plowing experience is with an ATV.
2013 V6 Tacoma, Meyer 6’ 8” Drive Pro. It’s just going to be used for my driveway and a neighbor once in a while. I installed everything on the front end and had a local shop install the wiring. I could probably have done it, but never having done one before how many mistakes would I make and how long would it take me?

Picked up the truck in the evening after the shop had closed. I had a closer look at it in the morning light. First funny thing were five connections coming out of the front end. Everything worked when I hooked it up but it didn’t seem right. That big connector is there for a reason. After an install download from Meyer it was clear, the installer didn’t send the lights through the big connector. He bypassed it entirely. The plow lights were plugged into the headlight modules in the engine bay and the lighting pigtails on the truck side and plow side harnesses were plugged into each other. There was also an unprotected wire running through the firewall and the hole wasn’t sealed back up. He didn’t install the big connector because he didn’t want to cut or modify something in the grill that I might not like, and that’s fine but he zip tied it so that it rubbed on the tire whenever I made a turn. The next morning during my inspection I found the sheathing worn off. No damage to the wiring. Beyond that it’s a pretty clean install but it does seem to me that he made some pretty rookie mistakes.

It was done at a one-man satellite office of a larger, more distant Meyer dealer. Would you bring your truck back to this guy or would you fix it yourself and try to get some $ back? My mind is pretty well made up. I don’t want him working on it.

Thanks, Geno


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## SnowFakers (Dec 31, 2012)

Fix it yourself. Most guys do it themselves as shop people are just trying to get it done. My install took close to 6 hours but you hardly know it's there other than the plug coming out the front


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## leolkfrm (Mar 11, 2010)

stone driveway??...if so put a gravel guard on it so you don't tear up the drive or grass


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

Turbogeno;1668392 said:


> My only plowing experience is with an ATV.
> 2013 V6 Tacoma, Meyer 6' 8" Drive Pro. It's just going to be used for my driveway and a neighbor once in a while. I installed everything on the front end and had a local shop install the wiring. I could probably have done it, but never having done one before how many mistakes would I make and how long would it take me?
> 
> Picked up the truck in the evening after the shop had closed. I had a closer look at it in the morning light. First funny thing were five connections coming out of the front end. Everything worked when I hooked it up but it didn't seem right. That big connector is there for a reason. After an install download from Meyer it was clear, the installer didn't send the lights through the big connector. He bypassed it entirely. The plow lights were plugged into the headlight modules in the engine bay and the lighting pigtails on the truck side and plow side harnesses were plugged into each other. There was also an unprotected wire running through the firewall and the hole wasn't sealed back up. He didn't install the big connector because he didn't want to cut or modify something in the grill that I might not like, and that's fine but he zip tied it so that it rubbed on the tire whenever I made a turn. The next morning during my inspection I found the sheathing worn off. No damage to the wiring. Beyond that it's a pretty clean install but it does seem to me that he made some pretty rookie mistakes.
> ...


Wow, that's a pretty nasty sounding install.
1) Why was the wiring routed through the grill? There is a large open space mid-bumper-cover where all the wiring fits nice and neatly.
2) Holes drilled in the firewall? There's a big bundle of wires passing through the firewall on the drivers side, and it has a hugely oversized rubber seal. I used the coathanger+electrictape method of poking my wiring through that seal. There is no reason to drill anything.

I wouldn't let a plow dealer touch my truck. EVER. And I don't think there is any way that you'll get any money back, unless you do so through your credit card company.

Fix it yourself, its the only way. And I'm sorry to hear about your firewall.

Also, despite meyer's match up, 6'8 is too short for your truck. If you look at the specifications for that blade, it shows "plow width at full angle" to be 72". Your truck is 74" wide on the outside of the tires.


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## Turbogeno (Nov 21, 2013)

I wrote this yesterday morning and slept on it. I didn't want any emotions getting in the way of the facts. I fixed the wiring yesterday afternoon. The guy who did it said I'll have to speak to the owners at the main store. I will even if it's just to lodge a complaint. I'll try to get some $ back but was never counting on it.



leolkfrm;1668416 said:


> stone driveway??...if so put a gravel guard on it so you don't tear up the drive or grass


The side of the house is pavement and the back is gravel. I've seen a picture of the guard and may build one.



jasonv;1668439 said:


> Wow, that's a pretty nasty sounding install.
> 1) Why was the wiring routed through the grill? There is a large open space mid-bumper-cover where all the wiring fits nice and neatly.
> 2) Holes drilled in the firewall? There's a big bundle of wires passing through the firewall on the drivers side, and it has a hugely oversized rubber seal. I used the coathanger+electrictape method of poking my wiring through that seal. There is no reason to drill anything.
> 
> ...


2012 and up have different front ends. I could have put it under the bumper guard but I did it like this.
http://www.smithbrothersservices.co.../2012-toyota-tacoma-meyer-drive-pro-plow4.jpg

He didn't drill any holes in the firewall, he used a sealed, existing one that was unused.

To late to get the bigger blade. I'll have to deal with what I have or get wings.

Thanks, Geno


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

Turbogeno;1668472 said:


> 2012 and up have different front ends. I could have put it under the bumper guard but I did it like this.
> http://www.smithbrothersservices.co.../2012-toyota-tacoma-meyer-drive-pro-plow4.jpg


That picture shows it in the right place. The differences are only cosmetic. Structurally/functionally, everything is precisely the same, including that big space in the middle of the bumper cover.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Turbogeno;1668472 said:


> I wrote this yesterday morning and slept on it. I didn't want any emotions getting in the way of the facts. I fixed the wiring yesterday afternoon. The guy who did it said I'll have to speak to the owners at the main store. I will even if it's just to lodge a complaint. I'll try to get some $ back but was never counting on it.
> 
> The side of the house is pavement and the back is gravel. I've seen a picture of the guard and may build one.
> 
> ...


So what did he do wrong if the hole was already there? There isn't supposed to be anything on the wire anyway


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## Turbogeno (Nov 21, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1668591 said:


> So what did he do wrong if the hole was already there? There isn't supposed to be anything on the wire anyway


The main wiring harness that goes into the cab was sheathed.
There was another, orange wire that was unsheathed. It goes to the light switch.
The hole in the firewall was not jagged but had sharp edges and no grommet.
I do not run unsheathed wire past sharp metal in any environment.
I also don't want open holes in my firewall
If that's the standard way of doing it I'd be surprised.

Thanks, Geno


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Turbogeno;1668632 said:


> The main wiring harness that goes into the cab was sheathed.
> There was another, orange wire that was unsheathed. It goes to the light switch.
> The hole in the firewall was not jagged but had sharp edges and no grommet.
> I do not run unsheathed wire past sharp metal in any environment.
> ...


Your unsheathed wire should have came out of the harness inside the cab. We don't silicone holes up it will not make one bit of a difference.

You said the hole was existing I've never seen a jagged edge that is factory.


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## Turbogeno (Nov 21, 2013)

My post stated the hole was not jagged but was sharp. The factory had some kind of black putty sealing it up. Without sealing it back up it was plenty large enough for a mouse to enter. It would be hard for any water to get in though.

Thank you for pointing out what could be another mistake. This orange wire goes to B on the light modules. The diagram shows a different orange wire coming out of the harness going to the modules. It is unused. When I get a chance to look at things more thoroughly I'll try to figure out what’s going on.

Thanks, Geno


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

I've got an '11 of the same vehicle (more or less...), and there are no sharp edges with putty going through the firewall. All through holes in the firewall (in fact, all body parts) have rubber grommets. Every single one of them.


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## Turbogeno (Nov 21, 2013)

I'd guess the scratch marks are where he used some kind of tool to push back the putty. I took pictures of everything.


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## abbe (Sep 8, 2009)

Post up pictures of the entire install. All of the shoddy work


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Turbogeno;1670290 said:


> I'd guess the scratch marks are where he used some kind of tool to push back the putty. I took pictures of everything.


Thats pretty typical


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

Turbogeno;1670290 said:


> I'd guess the scratch marks are where he used some kind of tool to push back the putty. I took pictures of everything.


When I saw that picture, I thought for a moment that you proved me wrong, so I went straight outside to look at mine. THAT IS NOT A FACTORY HOLE!!!!

The best tell that you have to determine that, is that there is no PAINT on the cut edge. All factory holes are made BEFORE paint, so the paint will seal it up and keep it from rusting away.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

jasonv;1670734 said:


> When I saw that picture, I thought for a moment that you proved me wrong, so I went straight outside to look at mine. THAT IS NOT A FACTORY HOLE!!!!
> 
> The best tell that you have to determine that, is that there is no PAINT on the cut edge. All factory holes are made BEFORE paint, so the paint will seal it up and keep it from rusting away.


You guys are worrying way too much. Theres nothing wrong with the hole. Its not going to rust away or any thing like that.

No one would cover it up either. Depending on installer they might put a grommet around it, but the harness is sheated I wouldn't even worry about it


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## Turbogeno (Nov 21, 2013)

I didn't mean to imply the scratch marks were a mistake, just an explanation of what may have happened.
The flash may make it look like there is no paint on the firewall hole. I'll have to have another look at it but I think the hole was cut at the factory.
Pic one shows the wires coming out of the grill. He wanted these to plug into the headlight wires. Pic 2 shows the 2 wires coming out of the truck side harness. (I didn't drive home like that; I pulled them out for clarity) He wanted them to plug into the 2 wires coming out of the plow side harness. This completely bypasses lights going through the big plug and leaves me with 5 connection points every time I mount or dismount the plow. The 2 wires in the grill should have plugged into the truck side harness wires and the wires on the plow side harness should have plugged into the lights. Then all lighting goes through the big plug and eliminates 4 connection points. Pic 3 shows where the truck side harness rubbed the tire on the way home whenever I turned.

Thanks, Geno


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## thumerzs (Nov 18, 2013)

Yeah, this is why I'm struggling to install my own. Too many "professionals" seem to lack any pride in a job well done. I would have gladly paid the $500 quoted by several places to do the job, if I had any faith they wouldn't scratch up my new truck and rig the install.

On my Silverado, the valance needs trimmed for the push plates - one place I was considering to do the job the guy tells me he *doesn't bother putting the valance back on *- "not needed." Yeah, but it'll look like crap and there's no place for the front plate it you don't put it back on. I figured if that was his attitude with what I could see, I didn't want him doing any of the stuff I wouldn't see. I could just imagine my new truck's grille thrown down on a concrete floor.

I used protection on the fenders and bumper when I was working on the truck, but feel most of these guys don't worry about keeping anything "Purdy." Even if this was a new municipal truck - I wouldn't want somebody being neglectful with the cosmetics.

Trouble is, now that I've wasted all that time trying to install it myself in order to avoid taking it somewhere, and failing to get the wiring installed correctly, I'm going to have to turn the truck over to somebody now after all.

Anybody know of recommended/reviews of installer-repair facilities by location anywhere on the net?


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## Moose's Mowing (Oct 6, 2012)

thumerzs;1671143 said:


> Yeah, this is why I'm struggling to install my own. Too many "professionals" seem to lack any pride in a job well done. I would have gladly paid the $500 quoted by several places to do the job, if I had any faith they wouldn't scratch up my new truck and rig the install.
> 
> On my Silverado, the valance needs trimmed for the push plates - one place I was considering to do the job the guy tells me he *doesn't bother putting the valance back on *- "not needed." Yeah, but it'll look like crap and there's no place for the front plate it you don't put it back on. I figured if that was his attitude with what I could see, I didn't want him doing any of the stuff I wouldn't see. I could just imagine my new truck's grille thrown down on a concrete floor.
> 
> ...


Try harder.....Take the time and study a wiring diagram and understand what it is you're trying to do. Take your time, plan it out, make everything neat. Plow wiring isn't all that complicated. A PITA for sure, but not rocket science. What plow are you putting on your Chevy? You mentioned the front has to be trimmed so I'm thinking a Meyer Classic Mount maybe? If it's a Meyer and you're having issues with the wiring, PM me I can maybe help you out.


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## thumerzs (Nov 18, 2013)

I'm installing a Western Midweight (3 plug) on a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500.

Got everything hooked up, but have no power at the control connector. Schematic says to check 6 amp fuse, but there is no inline fuse on this harness for the controller. 

Is the controller powered by that (red) wire, or the red w/green stripe going to motor relay?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

thumerzs;1671295 said:


> I'm installing a Western Midweight (3 plug) on a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500.
> 
> Got everything hooked up, but have no power at the control connector. Schematic says to check 6 amp fuse, but there is no inline fuse on this harness for the controller.
> 
> Is the controller powered by that (red) wire, or the red w/green stripe going to motor relay?


Did you connect the orange wire to a fuse power source key on only?

You're supposed to add the fuse when you make the connection


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## thumerzs (Nov 18, 2013)

I connected the red wire from the controller end to a constant powered source.

Does that make a difference?


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## Moose's Mowing (Oct 6, 2012)

No, it shouldnt matter until you leave it turned on and it drains your battery. That's how I wired mine, and I've killed the battery once or twice, but it should still work. Make certain you have power in that wire that you ran. the test leads on a DMM are pointed enough so you can stick them through the wire insulation. Set it to Volts DC on the 20 range. Find yourself a GOOD ground and then check it first to a know power source like a cig lighter outlet or something. Do that just make sure you have a good ground. Then check your controller wire for power. You outta have somewhere around 12 volts. If you get a reading like 5-6 volts, or zero volts, something is wrong. If you DO have power to the controller, then you're problem is somewhere else. You can use the meter the same way to check for power coming OUT of the controller. So attach your meter to a wire and slowly press all the buttons one at a time and see if you get a reading. I'd imagine there's several wires in there, maybe one to control up one for down, one for left, etc. There should also be a ground wire in there somewhere too, that could be your issue as well. I'm not familiar with the Westerns at all, but hopefully this will help you pinpoint your problem. 

Electrical work can get real frustrating so take your time, think it through and sort through one prob at a time. You gotta THINK, I teach shop at a high school and I tell my kids the same thing, THINK and figure it out. Electricity is similar to water in a pipe, you just can't see it. It's gotta come from somewhere, have someplace to go, and a way to control it. If there's a short or a broken wire/connector, your current can't flow. You just have to find out where it's broken and that's hard to do cause you can't watch electricity flow like you could with water in a tube. You'll get it eventually.

If you don't have a DMM, go get one for 20 or 30 bucks. That's all you'll need. If you don't know how to use one, watch a youtube video or two and it'll start to come together.


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## thumerzs (Nov 18, 2013)

I switched it over to terminal #41 (misc. ign. 10amp) in the under-hood fuse box.

Still nothing.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

thumerzs;1671438 said:


> I switched it over to terminal #41 (misc. ign. 10amp) in the under-hood fuse box.
> 
> Still nothing.


You need to make sure that terminal has power with a test light


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## upplowin (Aug 25, 2013)

thumerzs;1671438 said:


> I switched it over to terminal #41 (misc. ign. 10amp) in the under-hood fuse box.
> 
> Still nothing.


Check out the western website, go to the interactive parts,etc and look up your plow, see what, isolation module you have (#s & color of tag), and it will show you the wiring, and where everything goes to...with exception to the red wire that comes through the fire wall with control harness...the red wire used to go to the fuse box on side of dash, but I had a guy put an inline fuse in it but he re routed it back under the dash somewhere..not sure where but it would have to be to something that had power when key is on & no pwr when key is off..mine looks like it goes over towards the CIG lighter or my accessory for my charger,etc...what controller do you have??? The cab command, or the small joystick???


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## thumerzs (Nov 18, 2013)

Plugging the red control wire
into confirmed power. Control still doesn't light up.

Does the plow need to be attached to have the control power light come on?

(Apologies to the OP for hi-jacking his post)


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## snowpro44 (Oct 31, 2013)

That looks like a mess on the toyota!!didnt mount the plug??I would demand my money back!!looks like dogsh#T


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

thumerzs;1671538 said:


> Plugging the red control wire
> into confirmed power. Control still doesn't light up.
> 
> Does the plow need to be attached to have the control power light come on?
> ...


Yeah everything needs to be connected

I think you have a problem with you wire for the controller. You need a test light to verify power


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## thumerzs (Nov 18, 2013)

OK, problem solved.

Turned out to be what is always the hardest thing to find and fix - nothing at all.

The first time I hooked up the plow to test it, nothing happened. I had no power light on the controller, so I was convinced that was the area causing me the problem. 

Went back in the garage, found that I had switched the red/green wire on the motor relay. Fixed that, but still didn't have power to the controller.

I never bothered trying to hook it up to the plow again after fixing the crossed wires, being convinced I still didn't have power going to the controller. 

Turns out, yeah, you have to have the plow hooked up to complete the ground to get power to the controller!

As Homer Simpson would say - D'oh!

Thanks for all who replied to this thread - and to John at Chardon Welding (Ohio) who figured out the problem for me without raking me through the coals.


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