# Truck overheating on highway with plow?



## Lasher66 (Sep 28, 2002)

Hi,
I am actually trying to help a buddy out with this one, but he has a 2006 dodge 1500 4x4 with a snowway plow. When he plows everything works great, but when he has to get on the highway to go to the next job his truck thermostat almost redlines it. We know that this is probably the plow blocking the wind to the radiator but we were wondering if there are any solutions to this. He already tryed lowering the plow a little and that didnt work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jason


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## Big Dog D (Oct 1, 2005)

Keep the plow almost on the ground, literaly only a few inches off in order to get more airflow. The other thing that seems to help is to keep the plow angled rather than straight so that the air swirls in behind it to help for better cooling.


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

The truck must not have the plow prep package- talk to a dealer and find out what the plow prep cooling mods are and have them installed. Probabily different t-stat, different fan clutch and larger radiator. Plowing totally changes the demands on the cooling system so lowering the operating temp of the t stat and fan clutch will make a huge difference, as will a larger radiator. 

Oh, and another thing- you're not supposed to drive at highway speeds with a plow on period. 45mph is published max speed for almost all plow manufacturers and truck manufacturers because the of the air flow changes and engine rpm at 55+.... read the owner manual for both plow and truck (or the warning sticker over the driver viser if the plow was pro installed.)


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## brian2transam (Nov 25, 2006)

I have the same problem your freind has and I also added a electric fan. I was wondering if you found out any information on this. Thank you


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## 91AK250 (Nov 28, 2007)

sorry, i cant help.

but not over 45mph? seriously? most of the main roads around here are 50! lol

i run 65-70 plenty with the plow, i wouldnt wanna be that guy causing wrecks because im doing 45 on a 65 highway.


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

transport at 45, plow at 10 ...not that i follow those rules, but if your having a problem , thats a starting point

also, with truck beign a 1500 , it sits lower, and the blade, blocks even more if the raditor.

I know some guys mount a "sheild" on the lift arm of the plow, and it really does redirrect air to the radiator


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Running the heater at full blast will help, if it's cold enough to run around with the plow just open the windows and turn up the heat


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

justme-;295529 said:


> Oh, and another thing- you're not supposed to drive at highway speeds with a plow on period. 45mph is published max speed for almost all plow manufacturers and truck manufacturers because the of the air flow changes and engine rpm at 55+.... read the owner manual for both plow and truck (or the warning sticker over the driver viser if the plow was pro installed.)


Yeah right.  

Big Dog has the right idea.

If that doesn't help, check into the fan\plow prep. Never heard of a different thermostat for the plow prep package. The fan usually kicks on earlier to prevent high temps. Pretty sure radiators are all the same size nowadays as well.


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

As others have noted, the simple issue is air isn't getting to the radiator...on my 2500 simply angling the plow to the side and running it full up is sufficient. I have no date to support this, but I would think that lowering the plow would potentially add to the problem at highway speeds because now nothing can get under it either and the plow acts like a big air splitter...in any position it will create a rather large bowshock that blows way up and over the leading edge of your hood, creating a region of low air pressure...raising the plow fully might at least let enough air in from underneath to help. Again, I ahve no useful data to support this, just picturing the wind tunnel effects in my mind's eye...which may need glasses.

The best solutions thus far though are upgrading the cooling system, driving slower and adding an airfoil to either the top of the blade or the headgear that will help redirect air down behind the blade.


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

mayhem;569240 said:


> As others have noted, the simple issue is air isn't getting to the radiator...on my 2500 simply angling the plow to the side and running it full up is sufficient. I have no date to support this, but I would think that lowering the plow would potentially add to the problem at highway speeds because now nothing can get under it either and the plow acts like a big air splitter...in any position it will create a rather large bowshock that blows way up and over the leading edge of your hood, creating a region of low air pressure...raising the plow fully might at least let enough air in from underneath to help. Again, I ahve no useful data to support this, just picturing the wind tunnel effects in my mind's eye...which may need glasses.
> 
> The best solutions thus far though are upgrading the cooling system, driving slower and adding an airfoil to either the top of the blade or the headgear that will help redirect air down behind the blade.


And there isn't any data to support your theory. It works, I've been dropping my plows for years if the truck heats up and it always works.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Youv'e got strobes on your shovels?
Dammm you are cool....:waving:


Sell your straight blade and get a Veee blade this will help allot.

I have found that running it as close to the ground is better than all of the way up.
With the blade all the way up you are blocking your head lights too causing a lot of glare.

Run it low and angeled.
How is your fan? Is the coupler working properly?
Some do much better with a heavy duty fan coupler installed.

How many cores does your radiator have?
A larger radiator may help.


OR,
You can just drill a bunch of holes in the blade to let the air through.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

SnoFarmer;569250 said:


> Sell your straight blade and get a Veee blade this will help allot.
> 
> Unless you run in a scoop
> 
> You can just drill a bunch of holes in the blade to let the air through.


Or buy a poly blade and remove the blade skin between jobs

I haul blades around all year long. Normally a 8'6" snoway or a Snoway VEE. I play with the blade angles and heights. I watch engine temps and ambient temps according to the trucks thermometer. Angling never changes anything but the ambient temp. the engine operating temps stay the same. angle toward the side with the sensor temps climb sky high, on 85 degree days i seen it at 125/130F. Angle the other way temps drop maybe 10 degrees, stopping lowers it quickly. Engine temps run about the same regardless of the height i run the unit, getting in close to a tractor trailer will significantly raise the engine operating temps and no amount of blade adjustment seems to help to any great degree. However; turning on the heater will drop the temp quickly.

Most of this is done at highway speeds and never when it's snowing, mostly it's warmer then 50F, and most often sunny. I don't buy vehicles with-out plow prep so i can't comment on how that might effect these findings.

All in all the least expensive method of solving this is, don't carry your plow unless it's cold out, drive slower and/or run your heater.

Different blades with effect the airflow differently. The curvature, height, with or with out a deflector, the length, all play a part in the amount of airflow reaching the truck.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

The heater is always on hot and the fan is on....
I adjust the cab heat by opening or closing the windows..

I have don't have this over heating problem and I run at highway speeds or at 3mph with any of my trucks straight blade or Vee blade.
(all plow prep)

I too have a temp sensor. 
All the way up seams to be the hottest...
Running it low and angeled to the opposite side as your air intake is can make a difference. as to the engine temp.....

I wonder what temp thermostat he is using?
How old is the coolant?
Is the cooling system dirty?


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## nbenallo33 (Oct 23, 2007)

since it is a snoway blade if you use the cylinder clamp and drop the blde on the cylinder clamp it is usually at the right height also angle the plow it will get you better airflow


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

I've tried the heater\fan on high with limited success. Dropping the blade has been the best method for me. 

Assuming (as SF pointed out) the cooling system is functioning as it should be.


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

Just curious at this point. To everyone who runs their plow low to enhance cooling, do you also angle it at that point? Just trying to figure if the angle has a great er effecet on cooling than the height. When I brought my plow home I ran it up and straight for awhile until I noticed the temp was right near the red zone. I angled it and the temps dropped fairly quickly to slightly above what I get with no blade at all. 

So do you run it up and straight and move to down and angled or any other combination?


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

SnoFarmer;569256 said:


> The heater is always on hot and the fan is on....
> I adjust the cab heat by opening or closing the windows..
> 
> I have don't have this over heating problem and I run at highway speeds or at 3mph with any of my trucks straight blade or Vee blade.
> ...


all good questions, another one did somebody dump straight anti freeze in it?

I think weather conductions, and equipment play a major factor on what works for who. Most of my playing around is at highway speeds with-out excessive long term loads on the equipment. Perhaps the snoway not having a pump pac up in front of the grill might help too


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

basher;569415 said:


> Perhaps the snoway not having a pump pac up in front of the grill might help too


I guess the pump in front of the grill is better because the new Snoways are like that.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

JD Dave;569417 said:


> I guess the pump in front of the grill is better because the new Snoways are like that.


No I think the trucks will run hotter:yow!:


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

basher;569426 said:


> No I think the trucks will run hotter:yow!:


I agree, just giving you a hard time. I think keeping the pump and stuff, up and out of the way, is a good trade off fo ryour truck running a little hotter. I've actually never had a problem with over heating with our diesels but some of our gas trucks woulsd over heat on warm days.


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

run it low to the ground, never over heated, but had a few gett pretty warm , as a result of carring it too high


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Wow, a question not answered by our newest 'resident' expert on everything. 

Where o where could he be?


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## maineac3379 (Jan 4, 2019)

mayhem said:


> As others have noted, the simple issue is air isn't getting to the radiator...on my 2500 simply angling the plow to the side and running it full up is sufficient. I have no date to support this, but I would think that lowering the plow would potentially add to the problem at highway speeds because now nothing can get under it either and the plow acts like a big air splitter...in any position it will create a rather large bowshock that blows way up and over the leading edge of your hood, creating a region of low air pressure...raising the plow fully might at least let enough air in from underneath to help. Again, I ahve no useful data to support this, just picturing the wind tunnel effects in my mind's eye...which may need glasses.
> 
> The best solutions thus far though are upgrading the cooling system, driving slower and adding an airfoil to either the top of the blade or the headgear that will help redirect air down behind the blade.


this is what i have found works also but im trying to come up with an even better solution whereas cold air gets scooped up and directed to the radiator my 03 2500 runs in the middle of the gauge at 40 mph if outside temp is below 40 most of the time now with factory 190 deg t stat but i did just replace the water pump so that probably helps as well i will let you all know if i figure out a better option


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)




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## the Suburbanite (Jan 27, 2018)

Mark Oomkes said:


> View attachment 188343


Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
Add another bungee: Rock solid


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

the Suburbanite said:


> Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
> Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
> Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
> Add another bungee: still wobbles at highway speed.
> Add another bungee: Rock solid


Yep, at 3 bungees, you should upgrade to a ratchet strap.


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## maineac3379 (Jan 4, 2019)

Mark Oomkes said:


> View attachment 188343


well there now that's great


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## 2WHEELGNNR (Jan 6, 2014)

I agree with above. if I keep my plow very low and a bit angled I can get better airflow to the engine and transmission radiators. and sometime while driving I even have to switch that angle from left to right to get max airflow back. I dont know why but it works so I dont ask questions.
with plow straight it blocks to much and deflects are up. I also read and seem a wind deflector that can be purchased and mounted to direct airflow to the radiator...sorta like picture above...which I really Like!!!!

https://www.plowflowmaster.com/


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## Jacobmb (Dec 3, 2013)

https://www.amazon.ca/Hayden-Automo...GS8GGPDEH79&psc=1&refRID=CCN7P77XJGS8GGPDEH79


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## maxadventure (Feb 18, 2016)

Ram 3500 5.9 Cummins manual transmission. First with an 8' Fisher edge trip and now running a western at 9.5' with the wings. Overheating on the highway or climbing in the foothills. Heater on full helps, running with the plow down low helps. Angle didn't seem to make any significant difference.
There is my real life experience, take it or leave it.
Now for the >>>Warning!<<<
Moving from one HOA to another included about 20 miles on the interstate, where I run close to highway speeds . With the plow low trying to keep from overheating I hit a dip that couldn't be seen , plow bounced and managed to come down right on an expansion crack. Felt like an explosion. Truck only picked up dents in front, frame was fine. Mount ended up warped all over, cutting edge twisted like a churro. Blade warped and had bounced into the lights blowing them to pieces. Shattered the shoes and scatter bits down the hi-way in traffic. 
I have cool photos somewhere.

Be careful if you are driving on the highway with your plow down, just saying. At least I ended up with a better plow, sure liked the edge trip over a full trip though.


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## Avalanche 2500 (Dec 31, 2015)

maxadventure, did your ins. pay u for the damage ?? We like to see those pics !


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## 2WHEELGNNR (Jan 6, 2014)

I must say... I second that.......freak accident... coming right down on an expansion joint....what a jolt that must of been.

I know the few times Ive hit something causing it to "trip" its quite a jolt/Shudder!!!!!


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## leigh (Jan 2, 2009)

This must be an issue with direct lift plows, with my chain lift I short chain it and it lifts up so high I I'm looking at the road underneath the plow, plenty of air to the radiator. Added bonus is that it acts as a sun visor, I'll take some pics and post them back in Aug 2008.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

leigh said:


> This must be an issue with direct lift plows, with my chain lift I short chain it and it lifts up so high I I'm looking at the road underneath the plow, plenty of air to the radiator. Added bonus is that it acts as a sun visor, I'll take some pics and post them back in Aug 2008.


And then when you get to your customers lot you drop it a jackstand Of the like to ajust the chain you know, sew et will hit the ground.

My chain lift technology was made back in the early -70s. Myers , Every now When you hit a bump just right that chain would pop out of the slot & down she goes .

I've Never had a direct lift do that, yet

I guess, I wasn't paying attention or my comprehension is impaired,,, is this a full trip or a trip edge How did the transmission fair?


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## tpendagast (Oct 27, 2012)

Lasher66 said:


> Hi,
> I am actually trying to help a buddy out with this one, but he has a 2006 dodge 1500 4x4 with a snowway plow. When he plows everything works great, but when he has to get on the highway to go to the next job his truck thermostat almost redlines it. We know that this is probably the plow blocking the wind to the radiator but we were wondering if there are any solutions to this. He already tryed lowering the plow a little and that didnt work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> ...


Try lowering an angling the plow

I know I've had that problem in the past and when I found the "right" position I watched the temp gauge start dropping immediately


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## Mudly (Feb 6, 2019)

It’s all fun and games till you run 9 and 10 foot high boys. Not much angling options


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## jonniesmooth (Dec 5, 2008)

Yep, I started messing with these ideas. Straighten out the V, angle it to the right,drop it as low as you safely can. Now able to run 50 mph for 10-15 miles, probably would be ok for longer drives, that's just as far as i had to go. The temps were about 0-15 Degrees out, truck did go up to about 210D, with a 160D thermostat. IDK if that is relevant or not


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## stainlessman (Nov 1, 2011)

My Ford has louvers in the grill that open and close depending on heat and air flow. Ford has a option air temp sensor that plugs into the wiring plug with a sensor that gets zip tied up high under the head light on the plow. Then the louvers act from the air temp sensor that's not blocked.


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