# 2500HD with Mega blade



## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

I have a 2004 2500HD duramax crewcab and I am wondering what the best way to carry this plow I have. The Snoway megablade V plow is about 1000lbs and the truck sags quite abit even with timbrens and I was wondering about the 1 ton torsion bars. My bars are not cranked yet and as far as I know I still have the stock keys( not even sure what the keys are for but have read about them in numerous places) So should I just get different keys with my bars or should I get stiffer t-bars. The truck carries the plow but I would like it to carry it better with a lil more clearance. I am afraid if I crank my bars I am at more of a risk to break them.
What would you guys do in my situation with the bars?


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

The bars on both of the Duramax's and the 99' are GL bars which are the second to the highest rated bar. Somewhere on this site someone put all the different bars/ratings, I tried to search it for you but there are a ton of discussions on torsion bars. Not sure why I remember but I'm pretty sure the guy who has a blue 73-88 bodystyle Chev with a fisher and a flatbed on his sig is the one that posted the ratings.


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## Novadiecast (Jul 16, 2007)

i found this list supplied by B&B

XK
XL
XM
YF
YH
GG
GK
GL
XG
XK
YB
YT
GC
GF
GH


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

Novadiecast;696723 said:


> i found this list supplied by B&B
> 
> XK
> XL
> ...


But someone had all the weight ratings with the letter designation


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

I think I've posted this about 20 times now...never wants to come up in a search though..But regardless you shouldn't need to change the T-bars. Timbrens, a T-bar adjustment and the correct ballast will get you where you need to be. 

15048307-LH (code XK) (Max torque 4553) 
15048308-RH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)

15048309-LH (code XL) (Max torque 4626) 
15048310-RH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)

15712407-LH (code WX) (Max torque 4863) 
15712408-RH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)

15048311-LH (code XM) (Max torque 5638) 
15048312-RH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)

15058267-LH (code YH) (Max torque 5913) 
15058268-RH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)

15712409-LH (code WY) (Max torque 5913) 
15712410-RH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)

15528957-LH (code GG) (Max torque 6709) 
15528958-RH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)

15712411-LH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267) 
15712412-RH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)

15528963-LH (code GK) (Max torque 8615) 
15528964-RH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)

15528965-LH (code GL) (Max torque 8782) 
15528966-RH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)

15732338-LH (code XG) (Max torque 9054) 
15732339-RH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)

15528959-LH (code GH) (Max torque 7161) 
15528960-RH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)


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## toby4492 (Dec 28, 2005)

B&B;696752 said:


> I think I've posted this about 20 times now...never wants to come up in a search though..But regardless you shouldn't need to change the T-bars. Timbrens, a T-bar adjustment and the correct ballast will get you where you need to be.
> 
> 15048307-LH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)
> 15048308-RH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)
> ...


Maybe the mods should make it a sticky


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

How many guys do you actually know that have busted a TB? Not hear say actually know for sure because I've never seen or known anybody.


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

Not that it will help you out, but how bout some pics of that blade on your truck!


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

go to my profile and I have some in the snoway discussion thread MegaBlade pics.

So if I crank them more to raise the frontend unloaded without the plow you guys think it may be helpful instead of different bars froma heavier truck.

what are thses keys and what do they for me? I have stock ones now but should I atleats get different keys?


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

Like B&B said if you already have the Timbrens the only other thing you can really do is add weight to the back, cranking the T-bars really only give the spring more room to travel, it really won't help much (I have an 810 Blizzard on mine).


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

ok but should I crank my t-bars for the winter or what?
What about getting different keys, but I don't really know what color keys to get?


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## ondirtymax (Dec 22, 2008)

I would think the best setup for you would be air bags if you front end sags that much. I have a 7 1/2 curtis on the same truck as you and installed timbrens, front sags 'bout 1/4". One thing you have to remember 'bout cranking your tbars up, to far and it will affect your tire wear up front. I have my tbars cranked almost as far as they'll go and my front tires wore funny.


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

these tires are sh***y anyways but yeah I know what you mean. I think this weekend i am going to crank them all the way up and see what it does.


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## ondirtymax (Dec 22, 2008)

That was one reason I went with a smaller blade on the duramax was the weight issue of the diesel motor upfront. I know you can go big like you did, and believe me theres times wish i would have also, but its nice knowing i'm not screwing my front end up as bad! Nice looking truck and blade by the way, how do you like the snoway??


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

I love that plow even with the issues in the lifting, it reaslly pushes the snow and cuts my time in half from it was last year with the straight blade. So my set up is heavy that is why I was wondering about heavier duty bars from a 1 ton or keys and all that.

Glad you like the pics


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## JDiepstra (Sep 15, 2008)

kramer56;697562 said:


> these tires are sh***y anyways but yeah I know what you mean. I think this weekend i am going to crank them all the way up and see what it does.


Since you mentioned tires, I will point out that the weak point in the front end of most trucks it the rim/tire capacity. If you have shi***y tires, as you mentioned, you could be asking for trouble. Do you know what your rim/tire combo is rated to support? Cause you could likely be well overloaded.


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

yep you are right there I was actually talking about treadwear tho.


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

What I was saying is adjust the bars so that your front end sits were you want it when the plow is off/down. Cranking the bars does very little to hekp with the sagging issue. Carry 1-2 tons in the rear of the truck and you'll be fine!


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

ondirtymax;697542 said:


> I would think the best setup for you would be air bags if you front end sags that much. I have a 7 1/2 curtis on the same truck as you and installed timbrens, front sags 'bout 1/4". One thing you have to remember 'bout cranking your tbars up, to far and it will affect your tire wear up front. I have my tbars cranked almost as far as they'll go and my front tires wore funny.


There is no such thing as air bags for a t-bar front end......................
And if you can find some, I think there are hundreds of people on here who would like to know


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## ondirtymax (Dec 22, 2008)

Did not know that, never really researched them for a Tbar front end just assumed they were available


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Dont forget too if you plan on leaving the t-bars cranked, get a front end alignment too!!! That will help with all of your weird tire wear issues, etc.


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## JDiepstra (Sep 15, 2008)

rsvees;697647 said:


> What I was saying is adjust the bars so that your front end sits were you want it when the plow is off/down. Cranking the bars does very little to hekp with the sagging issue. Carry 1-2 tons in the rear of the truck and you'll be fine!


If you put 1 -2 tons in the rear of the truck I guarantee that will only increase the load on the front tires. Do you know how much a ton is?


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

How does putting ballast behind the rear axle affect the front axle? Geometry at it's finest!


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## BigDave12768 (Nov 17, 2006)

Think about a see saw. Put weight on one end and it drops to ground. So putting 800 pounds in back keeps front from dropping becuase of weight in back. Plow on front in same thing as heavy load in back. With a heavy load in back nose is up. So it keeps things straight and makes suspension lvl. So having to much weight in the back is causing the front end to be stretched out. Now with plow on and 1-2 tons in back will put your front suspension over the GVWR.

One other thing I am susprised they put plows on any of the Chevys. They are just so low.


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## DCSpecial (Nov 16, 2008)

Triple L;697729 said:


> There is no such thing as air bags for a t-bar front end......................
> And if you can find some, I think there are hundreds of people on here who would like to know


Not really air bags...but air over shocks:
http://www.truckspring.com/VSearchResults2.aspx?cID=984

I searched using a 2004 2500HD which is what the original poster has.


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## JDiepstra (Sep 15, 2008)

rsvees;698104 said:


> How does putting ballast behind the rear axle affect the front axle? Geometry at it's finest!


Before you flame someone you should make sure you are posting things that make sense.

How are you going to fit 2,000 to 4,000 pounds behind your rear axle?  What do you have custom stretched truck with an extra 8' of bed behind the axle to hold all that material?


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## JDiepstra (Sep 15, 2008)

BigDave12768;698155 said:


> Think about a see saw. Put weight on one end and it drops to ground. So putting 800 pounds in back keeps front from dropping becuase of weight in back. Plow on front in same thing as heavy load in back. With a heavy load in back nose is up. So it keeps things straight and makes suspension lvl. So having to much weight in the back is causing the front end to be stretched out. Now with plow on and 1-2 tons in back will put your front suspension over the GVWR.
> 
> One other thing I am susprised they put plows on any of the Chevys. They are just so low.


I understand the concept of ballast. That's why I have 750 lbs of sand and salt behind the rear axle.

Like I said before though, there is no way someone is going to fit 4,000 lbs of anything behind their rear axle.


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## Beegs (Dec 20, 2008)

I've had a few of these GM trucks with different combos. My latest is a 05 CCSB Duramax I bought 5 weeks ago. I just put 8' Fisher on it. Start off gradually with cranking the keys. I started at 4 turns each side and ended up at 6 complete turns. I still have a ton of adjustment left but I don't need it. 6 turns did it for me. More level ride with the plow off and much better with plow on. When I get a second I'll add some weight between the axle and gate and get an alignment. You swap out your keys only when you max out on your stock keys. 

The more you crank on these keys the quicker you will max out the stock shocks. By that I mean the stockers will no longer be long enough to allow suspension to go to full drop. Easy fix is shock extension kits or buy longer shocks. 

This is a short hack version of what you can do to solve your problems. 
If I could type better I'd go on about how u can buy aftermarket upper a arms to correct.....blah blah blah. It only took me 3 hours to type this LOL


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## lilweeds (Aug 3, 2007)

I always kept my salt bags piled up behind the axle with a board to keep them there, now that I have a v box it's fine till it's almost empty. Also I did't "flame" anyone, just want to help this guy not to svrew up his truck playing with the bars. Also the level rite shocks have been discussed, most people that have em like em, but they are expensive, and I personally don't like the idea of my shock mounts carrying that much weight.


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## TonyS (Dec 10, 2008)

I have my t-bars cranked all the way with stock keys all year round, sits level that way. With 400 pounds against the tailgate, my front end drops 1/2 inch picking up plow. Not sure how much my 7.5 weighs though.


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

Beegs;698289 said:


> I've had a few of these GM trucks with different combos. My latest is a 05 CCSB Duramax I bought 5 weeks ago. I just put 8' Fisher on it. Start off gradually with cranking the keys. I started at 4 turns each side and ended up at 6 complete turns. I still have a ton of adjustment left but I don't need it. 6 turns did it for me. More level ride with the plow off and much better with plow on. When I get a second I'll add some weight between the axle and gate and get an alignment. You swap out your keys only when you max out on your stock keys.
> 
> The more you crank on these keys the quicker you will max out the stock shocks. By that I mean the stockers will no longer be long enough to allow suspension to go to full drop. Easy fix is shock extension kits or buy longer shocks.
> 
> ...


I already have Bilstiens that are long enough for a 3" lift, in this case do i need the the new shock brackets or not?


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

kramer56;699323 said:


> I already have Bilstiens that are long enough for a 3" lift, in this case do i need the the new shock brackets or not?


Crank away then but remember the more you crank the the more stress you put on your front end. I just tap my wings forward abit on my 9'2 and the height problem is solved,


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

lol yeah but it was great until the bracket was installed and the stops had to be moved down. it sucks now, clearance wise. i am going to crank the bars up and maybe by then i wil lbe able to move the bottom pin bolts into the middle position, Andy at Snoway asked me if the measurement is borderline for the bottom or middle holes and it already is borderline, so maybe if i crank the bars up and get another inch or so I can move into the middle holes. Then my problems may be solved except the oil change. If after all that do I call Andy back if it lifts under the 3 second rule but the wings are still slow, or do I live with it. I need to know what port to check the pressures on and what kind of gauge is recommended for me to use. Any help here on the gauge and port? where the hell is Basher he has been too quiet I am nervous lol.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

kramer56;699443 said:


> lol yeah but it was great until the bracket was installed and the stops had to be moved down. it sucks now, clearance wise. i am going to crank the bars up and maybe by then i wil lbe able to move the bottom pin bolts into the middle position, Andy at Snoway asked me if the measurement is borderline for the bottom or middle holes and it already is borderline, so maybe if i crank the bars up and get another inch or so I can move into the middle holes. Then my problems may be solved except the oil change. If after all that do I call Andy back if it lifts under the 3 second rule but the wings are still slow, or do I live with it. I need to know what port to check the pressures on and what kind of gauge is recommended for me to use. Any help here on the gauge and port? where the hell is Basher he has been too quiet I am nervous lol.


Your dealer will check your pressure and change your oil, like has been said numerous times.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

kramer56;699323 said:


> I already have Bilstiens that are long enough for a 3" lift, in this case do i need the the new shock brackets or not?


No, only need the shock extension brackets for the OEM length shocks.


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## kramer56 (Oct 13, 2006)

JD Dave;699458 said:


> Your dealer will check your pressure and change your oil, like has been said numerous times.


lol I have not seen the gauges yet or the tech service binder yet and I do some of the work for my dealer. We have neverhad to worry about the pressures yet I guess until now.


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