# Changing oil pan on 7.3?



## Maclawnco (Nov 21, 2002)

Mechanic just called and said our new 7.3 will need an oil pan. Is there a way to change it without pulling the motor? Any tricks or suggestions are welcome.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Pulling the motor is the correct way to do it. There's other ways to do it but I'd be worried about getting surfaces clean enough, the pan sealing right, etc with the motor still in the truck and oil trying to leak out.


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## Morrissey snow removal (Sep 30, 2006)

u got pull the motor last one i did we pulled it had it done in a long day but also did manifolds while had it out


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## goel (Nov 23, 2010)

^^. Yep. Gives you a chance to fix the little crap at the same time. Might seem costly but do it right.


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## Maclawnco (Nov 21, 2002)

thanks all


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## My bowtie (Jan 15, 2008)

Some shops around here are cutting the cross member out, changin the pan, then fishplating the cross member back in...Buddy of mine had 2 of 'em done 3 yrs ago...still running the trucks with no issues. Heck of a lot cheaper also.....


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## Midwest BuildIt Inc (Nov 14, 2004)

Dont know what your 7.3 is in, but we used to take out the front body bolts, loosen the rears and lift the engine up till it hits the body. Check, but there was never a problem with anything in between body an engine. then just keep lifting engine/body until there's enough room to get pan out and in. I worked with a mobile truck mechanic and we did 4 7.3s this way. never a problem. we were usually in and out in 3-4 hours. just keep your eye on everything and make sure you dont stretch anything to far, disconnect it if you need to.


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## 01PStroke (Sep 9, 2011)

Midwest BuildIt Inc;1515774 said:


> Dont know what your 7.3 is in, but we used to take out the front body bolts, loosen the rears and lift the engine up till it hits the body. Check, but there was never a problem with anything in between body an engine. then just keep lifting engine/body until there's enough room to get pan out and in. I worked with a mobile truck mechanic and we did 4 7.3s this way. never a problem. we were usually in and out in 3-4 hours. just keep your eye on everything and make sure you dont stretch anything to far, disconnect it if you need to.


That's how the shop my brother works at tackles it!


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

google 7.3 rusted pan repair youtube


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## grec-o-face (Jul 7, 2009)

damian;1515821 said:


> google 7.3 rusted pan repair youtube


Here ya go Damian;


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## coldcoffee (Jul 17, 2008)

I've heard some good things about the fiberglass repair kit, surface prep of course will play huge in its effectiveness.

If you want to just buy yourself some time, I have another method that has worked very well for myself in the past:

1. Drain oil overnight & degrease pan.

2. wire wheel, sand & scrape all loose material till your seeing bare metal.

3. clean surface again w/ brake cleaner or similar.

4. Make sure surface and air are not too cold (see product info)

5. Assuming at this point there are no holes larger than a pencil, apply the following product generously over all areas to be repaired:

*Napa's Permatex "Ultra Black" (item # 765-2425)*...sold in small tubes & caulk size ($20-25 for caulk size)

6. Shmear the product around well to get good coverage, after your satisfied w/ the coverage, apply a sheet of tin foil (reynolds wrap or other) to fit the area.

7. Using your fingers closed together and the palm of your hand, gently massage the foil surface to flatten out the product more evenly and get a good bond between those surfaces...rub out any air pockets & work the heavy spots to the thinner areas.

8. Waite at least 24 hours or until cured (the longer the better).

9. Say a few prayers and go ahead w/ refilling your oil. Let the truck sit and idle for maybe 30-60 minutes before driving...check for leak's.


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

In the past I've been a big proponent of cutting the crossmember method. I have had a couple work great and a couple that have had to be redone. It is cheaper, when it works. When it doesn't, the company that did it covered the cost, but still, being without the truck for another 2-3 days makes it not so cheap. 

So, I now recommend just pulling the engine and doing it the "right" way.

If it isn't a bad leak, the fiberglass repair or fuel tank patch kit method works great, every time.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

I gotta get me one of those.

Must be an even more fun project in an E Series


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

7.3 oil pan in my shop...Pull the engine. 4-5 hrs...job done



















6.4 Bed plate gasket and water pump cover


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## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

When you factor in the cost of the repair over the life of the motor with a 7.3 its a minimal expense considering they usually go 400K with basic maintenance.


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

2COR517;1516168 said:


> I gotta get me one of those.
> 
> Must be an even more fun project in an E Series


Get a 6.0 in addition to the 7.3. They are even more wicked good. 

Another $800 for turbo downpipes so I don't die of CO poisoning or end up with some form of cancer in a year or two because my cab fills with exhaust when cold.

But just remember, spend $3-4K and this engine is _bulletproof._ Oh, and the oil pans do rust out on the 6.0s as well. Not as bad, but they do.


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

My bowtie;1515737 said:


> Some shops around here are cutting the cross member out, changin the pan, then fishplating the cross member back in...Buddy of mine had 2 of 'em done 3 yrs ago...still running the trucks with no issues. Heck of a lot cheaper also.....


I had a truck that had previously been done like that by the dealer. Once trucks started getting out of warranty, it was a cost effective option. I'd do it if I had to do one. Especially with a plow mount, there's nothing to worry about. They honestly did a horse sh!t job on the one I had, and it was still fine. I then sold it to a guy that brought his brother, a Ford diesel tech with him when he bought it. He saw it and didn't bat an eye.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

dfd9;1516460 said:


> Get a 6.0 in addition to the 7.3. They are even more wicked good.
> 
> Another $800 for turbo downpipes so I don't die of CO poisoning or end up with some form of cancer in a year or two because my cab fills with exhaust when cold.
> 
> But just remember, spend $3-4K and this engine is _bulletproof._ Oh, and the oil pans do rust out on the 6.0s as well. Not as bad, but they do.


My 6.0 runs great. Quiet, always starts. Did have to do exhaust manifolds though...


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

2COR517;1516578 said:


> My 6.0 runs great. Quiet, always starts. Did have to do exhaust manifolds though...


Ya, mine do too...........how did 6.0's come up in a 7.3 thread?! Put an hpop in a 7.3 and you're right in the same ballpark $ making them relaible.

Give me a break.


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## FISHERBOY (Aug 13, 2007)

IN my dump i've had to replace 2 oil pans, and my pickup has had 1 replaced so far.


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## snowish10 (Oct 29, 2010)

Midwest BuildIt Inc;1515774 said:


> Dont know what your 7.3 is in, but we used to take out the front body bolts, loosen the rears and lift the engine up till it hits the body. Check, but there was never a problem with anything in between body an engine. then just keep lifting engine/body until there's enough room to get pan out and in. I worked with a mobile truck mechanic and we did 4 7.3s this way. never a problem. we were usually in and out in 3-4 hours. just keep your eye on everything and make sure you dont stretch anything to far, disconnect it if you need to.


what kind of other stuff do you do on 7.3l powerstrokes ???


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## MatthewG (Jun 16, 2009)

snowish10;1536360 said:


> what kind of other stuff do you do on 7.3l powerstrokes ???


Exhaust back pressure tube for better MPG


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## Goofyexponent (Nov 29, 2008)

Release the motor mounts, jack the motor up, block it. Pull the oil pan bolts, drop the pan as far as it will go. Reach inside and pull the oil pickup bolts and remove the pan and pickup all at once.

scrape the base of the block, and reverse procedure with the new pan.

It's not fun, it's not easy but it can be done!


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## Mike N (Dec 21, 2008)

damian;1515821 said:


> google 7.3 rusted pan repair youtube


I used one of those fiberglass repair kits on my friends F550. Awesome is all I can say about it!!


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## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

My 92 has that. It doesnt last forever. Its pretty sh!tty right now and leaking.


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## Tony350 (Feb 6, 2010)

Has anyone personally cut the crossmember out themselves? My dads 7.3 is starting to leak. I can handle the cutting and welding, I weld for a living so I am not worried about that. How hard was it, I am fairly mechanical but do not feel up to pulling a motor. Looking for pointers or tips thanks.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Tony350;1809075 said:


> Has anyone personally cut the crossmember out themselves? My dads 7.3 is starting to leak. I can handle the cutting and welding, I weld for a living so I am not worried about that. How hard was it, I am fairly mechanical but do not feel up to pulling a motor. Looking for pointers or tips thanks.


If you like the truck, I wouldn't recommend cutting the crossmember. As soon as you cut it, the frame can tweak and be misaligned. If you have the basic tools the 7.3 can be pulled and a new pan put on and engine back in the truck in 4 hours. 
And the oil pan dosen't come out no matter how much jacking of the motor you do unless you remove the motor. The 6.0 liter, yes that pan can be removed in house but not a 7.3.


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## Tony350 (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks for the insight. That is food for thought about the frame moving when the cross member is cut. Maybe tacking something inplace before you cut it would prevent that.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Tony350;1809097 said:


> Thanks for the insight. That is food for thought about the frame moving when the cross member is cut. Maybe tacking something inplace before you cut it would prevent that.


Just do it once and do it right.

Cutting the frame is a backyard lazy fix.


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## Tony350 (Feb 6, 2010)

Yeah I kinda like the saying if you don't have the time to do it right plan on doing it twice. It isn't my call its my dads truck. 

He doesn't want to put that much into it. 

I read a fair amount on some other forums today and got mixed reviews about this.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Tony350;1809103 said:


> Yeah I kinda like the saying if you don't have the time to do it right plan on doing it twice. It isn't my call its my dads truck.
> 
> He doesn't want to put that much into it.
> 
> I read a fair amount on some other forums today and got mixed reviews about this.


Would you purchase a truck that someone had cut the frame in half on?

I know I wouldn't. Pulling a 7.3 is almost as easy as pulling a Chevy 350


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Whiffyspark;1809106 said:


> Would you purchase a truck that someone had cut the frame in half on?
> 
> I know I wouldn't. Pulling a 7.3 is almost as easy as pulling a Chevy 350


Agreed! X2


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

I've done a few. Just take your time and it'll be over before ya know it.



I even do 6 liter head gaskets with the cab on..


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

You do it the same way I do, but everyone tells me it can't be done on this forum. 

I've never took cab off a 6.0. Even putting new engine in I didn't, just skid it out the front instead.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Whiffyspark;1809155 said:


> You do it the same way I do, but everyone tells me it can't be done on this forum.
> 
> I've never took cab off a 6.0. Even putting new engine in I didn't, just skid it out the front instead.


Right?? It's easier to pull the motor then to pull the cab on the 6 liter trucks! If someone wants studs though, that's when the motor gets pulled and put on a stand.



6.4 and 6.7 is easy to pull the cab, 6.0 not so much


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

First of all, you don't cut the frame in half to drop the pan if done that way. 

Secondly, I happen to have 2 Furds that the frames cracked and have been plowing and towing with them since they were repaired. It isn't that big of a deal if repaired properly. Had a couple Dodges with cracked frames. 

Last, I would highly recommend removing the engine to replace the oil pan. International, in their infinite wisdom of not only using crap steel for the pan also decided a gasket would be silly. So you have to use their and only their form a gasket. And if there is a drop of oil that remains in between the pan and block, it will leak.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

07PSDCREW;1809157 said:


> Right?? It's easier to pull the motor then to pull the cab on the 6 liter trucks! If someone wants studs though, that's when the motor gets pulled and put on a stand.
> 
> 
> 
> 6.4 and 6.7 is easy to pull the cab, 6.0 not so much


I've done studs without pulling cab. I kind of miss it but I quit a few years ago. Just got tired of doing the same thing everyday


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

I cut the crossmember on my f450, it's easy to cut and reinstall. This had to be 5 years ago or more. The truck is still on the road hauling a massive tank of pavement sealer. If someone who knows how to weld repairs it there is no issue.
Look at your frame front to back and see how many welds are on it from the factory, somehow it survives with no issues


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

There's a difference between welding a frame in a jig and welding a frame in your backyard. Or even hanging off a 2 post lift

What I'm also wondering about is if welding the subframe can mess up the frame rails because of the heat?


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## Tony350 (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks Joe that's what I was looking for pretty straight forward job once the brace is cut out? 

I can't see the frame warping maybe the brace because that's where the hea t is. I would guess the frame wouldn't even get hot to the touch.


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

Whiffyspark;1809525 said:


> There's a difference between welding a frame in a jig and welding a frame in your backyard. Or even hanging off a 2 post lift
> 
> What I'm also wondering about is if welding the subframe can mess up the frame rails because of the heat?


The heat is a non issue. I cut it all out myself and used a saw all and when I did the install I just used vise grips to hold it exactly back where it was. Made it at least as square as it was before.


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## Joe D (Oct 2, 2005)

Tony350;1809527 said:


> Thanks Joe that's what I was looking for pretty straight forward job once the brace is cut out?
> 
> I can't see the frame warping maybe the brace because that's where the hea t is. I would guess the frame wouldn't even get hot to the touch.


I let it sit in the garage for a few days with the pan off to make sure the oil stopped dripping with the pan off. Then just install the new pan with the gasket dealer.


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## Tony350 (Feb 6, 2010)

Awesome that's what I was thinking if my dad chooses this route, let it sit a few days to make sure it all drains. It isn't his daily driver.


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## SGSMAN (Feb 7, 2010)

I anyone uses damians kit and the pan is very rusted make sure to put a drain valve in place of the oil plug otherwise you might twist the pan in the bottom and get a leak.we dont cut the crossmember we remove the crossmember and reinstall with gr 8 bolts.


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Just pull the engine! In and out in 4 hours with new pan...no need for cutting a crossmember.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

But you have to flip the engine and let the pan sit for 24 hours! Lol

I have yet to let one sit. In fact I've never let anything sit. Not even differnetial covers


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## beanz27 (Dec 22, 2012)

07PSDCREW;1873483 said:


> Just pull the engine! In and out in 4 hours with new pan...no need for cutting a crossmember.


Was just told 16.5 hours for my 97 F350


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Book time and actual time are two different things


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## 07PSDCREW (Sep 4, 2011)

Whiffyspark;1874225 said:


> Book time and actual time are two different things


Exactly... Back when this was a repair campaign by Ford, I used to bang out two in 8 hr day.


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## tjctransport (Nov 22, 2008)

i was told by ford when i had the first oil change done i needed a new oil pan because it was rusty and leaking when i bought my truck. i tightened the pan bolts to stop the minor leak. that was 7 years ago.


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