# Fab my own blade



## MIDTOWNPC

just picked up an older artic 8 ft blade for cheap. want to weld a quick tach mount to it and use it on the bobcat s300. any problems that anyone has come across doing this. Id like to be able to have the ability to put some down pressure on the blade when needed. 
I was thinking about adding prowings also. 

The other problem I have is that I drive the bobcat from job to job and would love to be able to carry the blade and the bucket. Any ideas


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## Wicked500R

Let the welder be your friend and go to town !!


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## powerjoke

MIDTOWNPC;416268 said:


> just picked up an older artic 8 ft blade for cheap. want to weld a quick tach mount to it and use it on the bobcat s300. any problems that anyone has come across doing this. Id like to be able to have the ability to put some down pressure on the blade when needed.
> I was thinking about adding prowings also.
> 
> The other problem I have is that I drive the bobcat from job to job and would love to be able to carry the blade and the bucket. Any ideas


try to use a heavy steel plate for your backer on the Q/A you'll be glad you have the extra weight


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## Spudgunner

One of my neighbors fabricated a QA mount that he welded into the front bucket of his old JD 310A backhoe. He put an Erskine snowblower on it. I don't think the hydraulics of the hoe were up to the task, but it was a valid proof of concept, I guess. I've since come to the conclusion that a good welder can fab almost anything. Good luck!


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## powerjoke

i know it aint a skid loader but the parts are there, i will try to post a few pics of a ss q/a later 

from my exp. it would not be wise to be able to put down pressure, the only reason is that if you put ANY hired hand on it they are morelikely to tear it up 

lets just say that you are scraping along and you go up an incline..... the machine is now supported by the blade and the REAR tires on the machine (S-300 is huge) unless the boom is on float which you might think you will do it each time but you'll forget (trust me) and even if you are only on flat surface etc. with a intermediate operator 9 times out of 10 he'll have the front wheels off the ground wich you'll desperatley need for traction when angle plowing. 

the best thing in the world is a bucket for backdragging, 

this tractor don't have the lift support tower on it yet i am still building it but it will be picked up with a chain just like if on a truck 

let me know if any more Q's i'll try to answer


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## JD Dave

Looks good PJ. Is that NH loader an ALo? All our loaders, even our skid, use the same QT. Your harness looks good, I still need to take some pics. Your right about the down pressure. You probably already know this but with that blade once you get your height set, you can just roll your bucket back to lift the blade up and down, works good IMO.


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## powerjoke

Looks good PJ. Is that NH loader an ALo? All our loaders, even our skid, use the same QT. Your harness looks good, I still need to take some pics. Your right about the down pressure. You probably already know this but with that blade once you get your height set, you can just roll your bucket back to lift the blade up and down, works good IMO.

it is a factory NH i think it is a 830tl but it's made by quikie, but they won't sell them as aftermarket loaders for tractors with terraglide. i am building this one so the bucket roll is all the way back, because the lowest part of the q/a will drag the ground with loader all way down and rolled out just a little bit, i will build it and then i will imobilize the bucket roll, 

but the way you have yours JD is the way we have the ss loaders but the q/a doesn't set so low


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD

Search bobcat skid steer on ebay, they always have qa plates on there.


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## powerjoke

RBRONKEMA GHTFD;420028 said:


> Search bobcat skid steer on ebay, they always have qa plates on there.


your right they are typicly on e-bay for about $75-85 plus s/h,

most of the time i build my own, just cause i never have a pre-made one around and they are relitively simple, just a little flat iron,

i have one ss blade that is on a Breaker backing plate that weighs about 400 lb (1"thick) it was built factory heavy to keep the vibation out of the machine, and it by far works the best the blade don't realy weigh anything

but steel is high anymore and it'll prob cost $200+ just for the backer, but if you are just doing drives and other short runs you'll prob be fine, we are using a ss like a truck we'll send it all over town to other parkin lots and long drives etc.

as far as trying to trasnport the blade and bcket you'll just have to expiroment but if you have a set of palet forks you can just put both peices on a palet and cary them that way (maybe a little salt too)


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## MIDTOWNPC

I just layed it all out, found the quick attache plate, going to weld 2 strong think crossers on the top and bottom and then weld a set of pigs ears recieverd on to the crossers. I will start with a chain and get the hydroliques working. There is only one contract that I will need to really back drag and have good down pressure and for that job I can leave the bucket at the location with the salt, so I should be good with just the chain. Nice work on the new holland. Always would love to see more pics as you progress.


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## MIDTOWNPC

one crosser on the bottom and another on the top with a hook for the chain. then just need two recievers for the pigs ears.


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## deere615

Nice plow. Thats a neat loader.


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## cincy snowdog

you mentioned the hook for the chain,i would make an angle bracket from the bobtach down to the frame to make the plow a tighter hookup.The reason i say this is because we made a few like that and what would happen was the chain would get stretched and break from when the tilt pedal was applied to lift plow it would jump up then down on the chain.(

after we made a bracket for it it was fine also if you make it with pins you can remove the plow and fabricate a hitch on the bobtach and make it to move trailers around, that is very handy to push a trailer in a tight spot. just my 2 cents.


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## powerjoke

post some pic's how's the project comin or did ya find somethin else to do


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## MIDTOWNPC

Bobcat is still finishing one job, been raining a fair bit here. I have been getting the truck ready. Had to fix the western, also fluid filmed the blade, rigged up some lights and not just want to build a frame to raise the tornado salter up to help with any freeze up and make some room in the bed for a few 5 galon pails of salt. I will post some pics tonight if I can get them before dark.


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## mike33087

take a look at this it might give u some ideasor just buy it lol 
http://cgi.ebay.com/SKID-LOADER-PLO...ryZ29520QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## MIDTOWNPC

Good pic. I have it all layed out ready to go, just need to weld. I have the biggest bobcat so the 8ft blade could be extended.


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## T-MAN

MIDTOWNPC;416268 said:


> just picked up an older artic 8 ft blade for cheap. want to weld a quick tach mount to it and use it on the bobcat s300. any problems that anyone has come across doing this. Id like to be able to have the ability to put some down pressure on the blade when needed.
> I was thinking about adding prowings also.
> 
> The other problem I have is that I drive the bobcat from job to job and would love to be able to carry the blade and the bucket. Any ideas


If you have a Snow Bucket, I would think you would be able to pick up the mount side first to lift and carry the blade. Throw a tie down on if theres any traffic. Might work......
My S250 wont be here for another 2 weeks, other wise I could tell ya.


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## MIDTOWNPC

*testing*

Well I got it welded togeather and got a chance to test it out. Pretty nice compared to a bucket. I installed restricter valves as suggested and they slow things down angeling left and right. I just need to tidy up the hoses and paint the plow. My times were alot quicker on my lots compared to last year with a bucket. I was able to plow both directions and still back drag with downpressure and get any ice up. I would think a set of wings would really be awesome. Its no blizzard 8611 but so far the costs run pretty cheap

$200 plow $200 hoses and cupplers/fittings, going to need some paint and fluid film and some guides. I am thinking bobcat orange

about 7 hours so far another 4 and I should be done


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## MIDTOWNPC

think I lowered the quality too low lets try again here


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## magnatrac

Looks real good ,even with the fuzzy pic's!!! I think that the bobcat orange would be a fine choice of color. Keep us posted when your all done. Good luck!!!


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## deere615

Ya looks good, Bobcat orange will look sweet!


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## Tractor Plower

Looks great! could we get some higher quality pics?? i'll be starting my next project soon- taking an old Meyer 7.5 and fab. the headgear to fit my kubota. It will be a direct frame mount so i can remove the loader and have a much stronger blade.
-Mike


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## MIDTOWNPC

I have the blade inside and the paint is drying I will post some pics soon. High Quality pics commin up. It is nice and ORANGE.


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## MIDTOWNPC

*Love it*

Well, I got it made up, painted and everything. I dont know the paint even fully drived and I plowed about 30 hours in 2 days, so I can afford another coat of paint. Here is some picks. I broke the weld part way thru the second day so I had to get a buddy out onsite to weld me back. He touched up a few things for me, as I was still learning when I put this togeather. This blade really cut my times down, I would say not half but a good amount on my big lots. I plan on taking making wings next or some clip on box blade. It it totally awesome having downpressure for the residentials that I hit on my route. I basically have 10 residentials on the way from my place to my commercials. I leave my bucket at my biggest commercial so I can stack and carry If I need to. Paid for this in 1 night by cutting my time down. And the best part is I did it mostly myself so the self satisfaction is amazing. Enjoy.


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## deere615

Wow looks nice good job on making the money back already!


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## magnatrac

Glad to hear that everything it working for you. I know what you mean about self satisfaction, it's always nice to build something and have it work out as planned. If another coat of paint is all you need I'd say your doing pretty good!!! Thanks for sharing,Good Luck!!!


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## Muirs Landscape

Looks good


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## MIDTOWNPC

Thanks boys. Just looked at people designs on here and for sale on ebay and figure out how it would work. Used some cardboard for designs first. Then got the steel from scrap I had. Talked to a hydraulic guy about the restricters and he made me the hoses. 

I used, homedepot self priming exterior paint (behr)


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## Doug Montanari

looks great how does the plow react being ridgid mounted and not hooked up with a chain? also the restrictor valve that you refer to where did you buy that at? I'm in the process of making one know and yours looks great thanks for all the pictures.


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## MIDTOWNPC

being ridgid (welding a brace) allows you to have downpressure when you need it. I float the blade most of the time, but when I get up close to backdrag docks or residentials I give a little pressure. The first night getting use to things and me being new to welding I broke the weld. It was probably more my welding then the pressure. Now in that situation I wish I had the chain as backup as I was stranded for 20 mins while I waited for a ride back to the shop. You want some strong steel maybe even 2 pc's or a small H type pc. The restrictor valves I got a a hydraulic shop intown. I learned later that PrincessAuto and other car/tractor places carried them. It allows you to slow down the blade movement otherwise it wants to go faster then windshild wipers with the touch of the finger controll. When I put things togeather I just tacked the welds and got in the machine and moved things around a bit. I wanted it to be that once I set the up and down arms that by just moving the tilt I could pick up and lower the blade, so that while I was turning around I only needed one hand movement to pick up the blade enough. It also would prevent me from slamming anything down hard. I plan on welding in a chain just so I have a way to keep going if I do ever bend something ect ect. I also plan on wings, this thing can move alot of snow. Only other thing I have found is the quick couples get icy and hard to unclip sometimes, but I am also a weakling especially after 13 hours or plowing. Pour some washer fluid on em when clip them in and they wont freeze. Post questions I will answer. If you need more pics let me know I owe it to the readers so many ppl helped me.


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## Doug Montanari

Thank you for the reply. I could really use some more pictures if you don't mind.


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## bugthug

You did a real nice job with the plow. I have the same setup but I put a poly edge on it. I like how you put the bracket for down pressure.


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## MIDTOWNPC

I will grab some more pics in the morning, too dark out right now plus I just spent all day loading sand salt plowing and skating around town. Came home to some chicken in the oven... got to go.


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## Doug Montanari

bugthug;453437 said:


> You did a real nice job with the plow. I have the same setup but I put a poly edge on it. I like how you put the bracket for down pressure.


How do you like your poly cutting edge?


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## NBI Lawn

I picked up a 8.5' Leo a while ago to do the same thing. I was thinking about using a chain instead if solid mounting it. Does the chain idea not work? Do you suggest using a solid piece instead?

BTW that looks very nice.


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## bugthug

Doug Montanari;454242 said:


> How do you like your poly cutting edge?


For a stone driveway I think they are great. They dont dig in at all. I think steel cleans up better on pavement.


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## Doug Montanari

okay one more question on your angle cylinders did you change the hydraulic line size or did you just plumb them up at the quick couplers at the machine?


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## MIDTOWNPC

Doug Montanari;456422 said:


> okay one more question on your angle cylinders did you change the hydraulic line size or did you just plumb them up at the quick couplers at the machine?[/QUOTE
> 
> I made quick couplers and that is what I was talking about with the restrictor valve. You can see it in the picture. It looks like a little black valve with a dial on top.


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## JD Dave

You might want to put a diverter valve in too. That way when you hit something the pressure from the one cylinder goes to the other. We have them on all our tractor and loader mounted blades.


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## MIDTOWNPC

JD could you explain... my blade has 2 hoses, which both connect to seperate quick couplers on the bobcat. Would I have to link the the hoses or something to plum that in? Good idea however.

I saw your pics of your salt storage - very nice. Do you have a door on that or do you just tarp the front to keep the wind from blowing stuff inside. I have a sea container on one site filled with salt and another pile tarped on the other side of town. I just had the seacontaner sprayed on the inside with rust check.


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## Doug Montanari

MIDTOWNPC;457135 said:


> JD could you explain... my blade has 2 hoses, which both connect to seperate quick couplers on the bobcat. Would I have to link the the hoses or something to plum that in? Good idea however.
> 
> I saw your pics of your salt storage - very nice. Do you have a door on that or do you just tarp the front to keep the wind from blowing stuff inside. I have a sea container on one site filled with salt and another pile tarped on the other side of town. I just had the seacontaner sprayed on the inside with rust check.


Midtown if you wouldnt mind could you take a pictue of your sea container for me? sounds like a great idea. Thank You


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## MIDTOWNPC

Ya no problem. Its like a half tractor trailer with no wheels. Buddy of mine thought of the idea so we thought we would try it out and share a salt load on a out of the area location. I got some pics of the blade commin also. I put on an extra brace.


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## Hightechredneck

*S250 with plow*

Hey,

New to this site. Really like it. I just installed a western plow to my Bobcat S250 and it is the best setup I've ever had. I had a pallet fork attachment and was able to weld the plow attachment brackets right behind where the forks slide back and forth and then drill a hole in the top of the attachments back guard for the chain (in the picture it just has an s hook holding the chain, that was just temporary during installation) and used a bolt to hold the chain in place. Took about 3 hours to figure it out and install it. Now I have to figure out the hydraulics and get some skid plates and I'm done. Anybody know anything special I need to do to make sure I hook up the hydraulics right? I've only had this S250 a short time and haven't used the hydraulic quick disconnects on it yet.


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## Doug Montanari

Hightechredneck;458278 said:


> Hey,
> 
> New to this site. Really like it. I just installed a western plow to my Bobcat S250 and it is the best setup I've ever had. I had a pallet fork attachment and was able to weld the plow attachment brackets right behind where the forks slide back and forth and then drill a hole in the top of the attachments back guard for the chain (in the picture it just has an s hook holding the chain, that was just temporary during installation) and used a bolt to hold the chain in place. Took about 3 hours to figure it out and install it. Now I have to figure out the hydraulics and get some skid plates and I'm done. Anybody know anything special I need to do to make sure I hook up the hydraulics right? I've only had this S250 a short time and haven't used the hydraulic quick disconnects on it yet.


Did you get your hydraulics hooked up yet? If so did you do anything special? I have not hooked mine up yet still waiting on the cylinders


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## BB64

Nice job, MIDTOWNPC, wish I could weld!

Anyway, I have an opinion question for all of you: What do you think of Berlon's Snow Mount quick-attach plate?

Explanation: A friend gave my boss a couple old plows -- a 5' Western fixed V and a 6.5' Meyer power angle that he'd like to have end up on his Gehl 4640T. We don't have a welder and I've checked around... a basic Q/A plate will run me $150 plus time & materials at the welding shop ($50/hr) to stiffen and adapt it or I can get one of these for $425. Is it a deal?

Thanks everyone!!


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## tsmith

I did one up for a bobcat where I used to work. What you've done looks good, just mount the chain solid. When it comes to hydraulics, I used the plow cylinders and plumbed them to quick connects, the only thing I added was a flow valve on one hose to slow it down. If you don't choke the flow down that blade will wip extremely quickly when you go to angle it, the bobcats have way more flow than a plow pump. For the skids I just used standard plow feet, but if you are on pavement I wouldn't even use them. Do that and you should be good.


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## xtreem3d

BB64...thanks for that link, they have a few awesome things!!! their 8ft plow for only2000.00 !!!!!and the spreader you use as a bucket to fill it is an awesome idea if you have an on site salt pile ...perfect for condo drives ,hotels, casino parking lots ect..


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## MIDTOWNPC

I basically just learned how to weld by playing around. Had some guidance but maybe the welding shop will make you a deal if you are not in a rush. That adapter is very nice. I think it looks very strong also. That is for a chain mount so you wouldnt have the down pressure feature like I made mine have. 

I never thought I would like welding but once I started it and thought of all the things I could make I got pretty in to it. You learn to weld better once things break a few times.


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## xtreem3d

i think i would do away with the chain mount and fab a brace for downpressure also


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## RipT

Welcome to the forum HighTechRedneck.

Hydraulic-wise, be sure to install one (or better, two) adjustable flow valves in the lines to the blade angle as mentioned above or it will slap back and forth way too quick. I would also recommend installing a cushion cross-over releife valve that acts as a safety if the whole blade hits something solid. Fixed orifice flow restrictors would also work, but may take a lot of trial & error to get the speed right.

With just a chain like you have it will work just as well as if on a truck. If you do want down-pressure to better scrape hard-pack or ice, rig up a bracket extending out a ways from where you attach the chain that you can mount a gas-pressure or coil-over shock between the mount and the A-frame. This will give you a controllable amount of down pressure without going full rigid.

Good Luck


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## JD Dave

MIDTOWNPC;457135 said:


> JD could you explain... my blade has 2 hoses, which both connect to seperate quick couplers on the bobcat. Would I have to link the the hoses or something to plum that in? Good idea however.
> 
> I saw your pics of your salt storage - very nice. Do you have a door on that or do you just tarp the front to keep the wind from blowing stuff inside. I have a sea container on one site filled with salt and another pile tarped on the other side of town. I just had the seacontaner sprayed on the inside with rust check.


Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I missed it. We actually have 2 Coveralls exactly the same. We don't tarp the front in the winter or the summer. The front face gets a little wet but we go through enough salt every storm that it doesn't cause any problems.

The hose's run into your cushion valve and then continue with other hoses to your skid. Ican get you a part # if you havn't figured something out yet. The cushion valve is a must!


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## MIDTOWNPC

I do not have a cushion valve but I will just ask the local company I got the rest of the hoses ect from.


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## BB64

JD Dave, while MIDTOWNPC didn't ask for it, I'd be interested in a part number for the cushion valve -- or just a link to the right type of valves so I can read up a little. I'd rather not sound like a complete idiot (half or dim-wit doesn't bother me) when I wander into the hydraulics shop to request one!

Thanks much!


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## xtreem3d

you can read a little here...go to page 13..i can't remember for sure but on my bobcat the hoses are supposed to be at least 2100psi (i think) so i'm guessing something like the dresen dxv 1800 or dxv 2000 would work. i think i might go w/ the 1800 psi valve
you can also go to page 17 for control flow valves to slow down your plow

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/sec-h.pdf


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## BB64

*Thanks!*

Thanks, xtreem3d! That's a great primer, especially since it gives some idea of what the parts are worth. I'm an electrical weenie, so this hydraulic stuff isn't always intuitive.

Now I guess I'll have to drag out the Gehl 4640T's manuals to see how they say the Aux system is plumbed...


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## JD Dave

xtreem3d;487221 said:


> you can read a little here...go to page 13..i can't remember for sure but on my bobcat the hoses are supposed to be at least 2100psi (i think) so i'm guessing something like the dresen dxv 1800 or dxv 2000 would work. i think i might go w/ the 1800 psi valve
> you can also go to page 17 for control flow valves to slow down your plow
> 
> http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/sec-h.pdf


Nice link. We use the F 800 valve on pg 17 to control flow, It's nice to have an adjustable one IMO. I will look for a cross over relief valve.http://www.drillspot.com/products/53334/Prince_DRV-2HH_Double_Relief_Valve This is the only one I could find online. It's not exactly what we use I'll try and find the exact one.


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## xtreem3d

here's a helpful link i found to buy plow parts http://www.crysteeltruck.com/products.asp?cat=3

i have a Boss skid steer plow that has the cushion valve mount to the front of the quickattach plate but i couldn't find it in Boss' catalog...i e-mailed them to send me info and part # in case dave doesn't find his link. going from memory it looks alot like the dresen valve in a previous link i sent


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## xtreem3d

here's their reply...

We can get one of those for you, they are $106.17. Feel free to email me
back or call Eddy or myself at 800-795-1280 or 763-571-1902 if you would
like to order

Thanks,

Chris Hicks [email protected]
Marketing Executive
Crysteel Truck Equipment
1130 73rd Ave. N.E.
Fridley, MN 55432
P 800-795-1280x122
F 763-571-5091


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## BREAULT69

I've been plowing for 20+ years, started out with farm tractor with rear blade and no sleep. I just got around to putting an old state truck 10' plow on my Michigan 35 loader (approx. 15k# machine). It mounts to the bucket with 2- 1 1/8" pins (very quickly-5 minutes or less). It does not angle as I plan to box in the ends with 3/8" plate. I have another 11' plow I plan to adapt that will angle with open ends. Now here is my point. I can't believe how much more snow this thing now pushes even without being boxed in yet !! And it goes down to bare pavement & trips on the occasional manhole cover !! I bought both plows for $110.00 and it took me 5 hours to adapt it to the bucket !! 10' instead of 7' is an amazing difference, plus it still stacks, and I don't have to do a dump cycle on every pass. I had to raise my hourly rate considerably, not one customer complained, they love the job this thing does. It is gonna eat some cutting edges, but I'm charging for it. I still need the bucket for spreading gravel so it's nice to carry both wherever I go. Bottom line- I get done in half the time and still make the same money. If you have any type of loader, my advice is put on a plow. Wish I would have done it a long time ago. As soon as I can I will post pictures of this unit.


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## Naudi2u

Hightechredneck;458278 said:


> Hey,
> 
> New to this site. Really like it. I just installed a western plow to my Bobcat S250 and it is the best setup I've ever had. I had a pallet fork attachment and was able to weld the plow attachment brackets right behind where the forks slide back and forth and then drill a hole in the top of the attachments back guard for the chain (in the picture it just has an s hook holding the chain, that was just temporary during installation) and used a bolt to hold the chain in place. Took about 3 hours to figure it out and install it. Now I have to figure out the hydraulics and get some skid plates and I'm done. Anybody know anything special I need to do to make sure I hook up the hydraulics right? I've only had this S250 a short time and haven't used the hydraulic quick disconnects on it yet.


Hey that is just what I was looking for. I was out to day with the NH TC45 and was thinking that it sucked plowing with the bucket. I was looking for a way to mount my 8' meyer in place of it. (need to stack higher then truck can and the trany and pump are out again:realmad I already have the pallet forks. A couple of dog ears and and 2 long hoses to hook up to the remotes in the back. Easy peasy cheep and easy:redbounce


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## Naudi2u

Here it is all set and working


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## AbsoluteH&L

Proving you don't need a bucket to stack snow, I see. Very nice!


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## deere615

Naudi2u;523299 said:


> Here it is all set and working


Wow cool pic, Thats a tall pile!


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## ff1221

Hey, I need a spear like that for all those friggin idiots who like to park right where you are plowing, and then look at you like, "am I in your way"


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## MIDTOWNPC

yes a quick tach spear. taxi cab kabobs?


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## Andrew Hardscape

I'm wonderin if we can bring this thread back to life?

I'm here in MD, and we used to do a fair volume of snow and ice management services until 2003, using trucks and backhoes.

This year I picked up a couple accounts and would like to get back into the snow biz next winter. 

I have 2 skid steers, and I currently have one old Meyers 7.5' plow. I've done some reviewing on this site and in another thread I see where folks here have mentioned making the holes oblong where the A-frame mounts so the blade can oscilate.

1. Has anyone done this with success and do you have some good close up pictures of the holes????



Also, I see in the 1st page of this thread where one or two guys have photos of their plows braced so they can apply down pressure to the plow. I can see times where down pressure would be needed, and I can see where it is necessary to allow the plow to float.

2. Has anyone tried the best of both worlds? You know how on a tractor's 3pt hitch you have the top link? What if we were to make our plow so that it can float with the chain.....and in times when we need down pressure we connect a link (same link used on a 3pt hitch) which would allow down pressure to be applied to the plow?

3. What are you thoughts / experiences with this??


Also, i'm really interested in seeing some good close up pictures of everybody's fabricating 


Thanks In Advance,

Andrew


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## MIDTOWNPC

Well with my setup on the bobcat. You can float the arms of the machine. So there is not always downpressure on the plow.

I have seen a few other threads and once I have some more time maybe tonight I will dig them up and post here where guys fab'd the blade like mine to a skid but with a chain and on the pins where the a frame attaches the made a bump stop so that they can apply downpressure, by tilting forward.

I actually think that at the end of the season I am going to change my setup.
What I want to do is take my bucket and make it so that the snow plow clips inside the bucket. This way I get to carry both with me. This way as the skid travels around its route if there is something on the way that needs to be pushed back or stacked it can stop and do it, without having to go home.

Im also thinking about a 9 or 10ft blade with wings and I think I would like trip edge.


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## tat2d_diver

You can see a few pics of my set-up in this thread http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=90934


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## robjets

Got some pics of the meyers plow I hooked up on my skid. Got the plow
for free and cleaned it up, then bought the plate to connect plow


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## OldCrow

As soon as I can find the cable to download the pics off my camera, I'll upload some to here.

I did the same thing to our 90xt a few years ago. I had an 8'6" meyers plow and an 8'6" western that we kept from old trucks I sent up to auction. I bought a blank plate, welded up mounts for both plows on the plate. And a 5 ton pintle hook for moving trailers around the yard. 

I set it up so the meyers plow has a chain lift to allow it to float when desired, and I welded in brackets to bolt straight angle iron from the plow frame to the plate to allow down pressure when we need it. Works great as a light dozer blade. 

The western plow I boxed in and increased the height, for a decent sized pusher. Removed all the hydraulics from it and beefed up the frame a little.


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## jomama45

Andrew Hardscape;1003209 said:


> I'm wonderin if we can bring this thread back to life?
> 
> I'm here in MD, and we used to do a fair volume of snow and ice management services until 2003, using trucks and backhoes.
> 
> This year I picked up a couple accounts and would like to get back into the snow biz next winter.
> 
> I have 2 skid steers, and I currently have one old Meyers 7.5' plow. I've done some reviewing on this site and in another thread I see where folks here have mentioned making the holes oblong where the A-frame mounts so the blade can oscilate.
> 
> 1. Has anyone done this with success and do you have some good close up pictures of the holes????
> 
> Yes, on mine I added a ton of material to the quad & A-frame, mostly because it's a weak point of an old Western. I simply made sure there was plenty of side clearance on the pivot pin. It doesn't take much (maybe .060-.080) clearance to offer good oscillation.
> 
> Also, I see in the 1st page of this thread where one or two guys have photos of their plows braced so they can apply down pressure to the plow. I can see times where down pressure would be needed, and I can see where it is necessary to allow the plow to float.
> 
> 2. Has anyone tried the best of both worlds? You know how on a tractor's 3pt hitch you have the top link? What if we were to make our plow so that it can float with the chain.....and in times when we need down pressure we connect a link (same link used on a 3pt hitch) which would allow down pressure to be applied to the plow?
> 
> I'll post a few pics of what I did, no need to get out to apply down pressure. If you need to get out, something tells me it will stay in DP mode far more than you need to.
> 
> 3. What are you thoughts / experiences with this??
> 
> I've had my fair share of problems keeping a plow together on my skid. Maybe I'm just a bull in a Chinashop, but I don't think you can expect the same lifespan out of a PU blade on a skid, especially if you always use downpressure. Some of my problems were from trying to stack mass amounts of wet,heavy snow. Thankfully, a very wise member here  helped me realize this, & I've had far less problems since. Lastly, I'd recommend intalling a cross-over valve inline right away before you have your hoses built.
> 
> Also, i'm really interested in seeing some good close up pictures of everybody's fabricating
> 
> Thanks In Advance,
> 
> Andrew


Here's a few, not real close up, but you should get the point:


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## MIDTOWNPC

THATS THE PLOW with the bumpstop. Great design.


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## MIDTOWNPC

Diggin up my old thread here guys but has anyone done a pusher.
Im going to get an old 9ft Trip Edge blade tomorrow. I would like to build a pusher.

Anyone got pictures of their pusher they made. Please share.

Im thinking if I mount a quick tach to the back of the blade, 
Do I make fixed end plates? Somehow make floating endplates?

BTW the blade was free! So the price was right


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## MIDTOWNPC

*New Idea*

I have a bucket, and at the begining of this thread I made a powerangle plow.
Now I could really use a pusher.

Got a few new jobs beside lots that we already have and its time to rig up the bobcat.

First of I started with getting someone to make me up a hitch reciever for the back of the bobcat that will hold my snowblower carry all I made last year. My sidewalk guy would carry that on the back of his truck and drive around but this year we decided that since all the sidewalks we do are in one area the bobcat could drive to that site, with a pusher, back drag all the drives, and then blow the walks. The pusher going to be better then a bucket becuase it will have a rubber backdrag edge and then we can move all the snow to one pile.. the driveway owners dont have piles at the edge of their drives also.

This is testing mode. I have to design what I want, Ill cut the templates out of cardboard or wood and then have someone weld them up for me. Ill do the finish and paint stuff. I dont know how to weld. its something Ill learn one day.


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## MIDTOWNPC

I had to get measurements so I used the pallet forks to hold the blade.. its not at the right cutting edge angle. I want there to be a top cage on the bobcat that is a back drag blade but then can flip up to "move alot of snow mode"

the top plate will be some sort of expanded metal so it allows me to back drag alot of snow not like a standard back drag edge that only has a 4 inch cutting edge. These drives are about 20 ft long.

Im thinking top plate will be about 2 ft out from the top of the blade.


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## MIDTOWNPC

I got the idea from this picture I found online. 
I think its someone from plowsite but don't know who. anyways I owe ya a


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