# Buyer's tailgate spreader issues ...



## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

This is the 2nd Buyer's tailgate spreader I've owned. I just use it occasionally on my 1/4 mile driveway that snakes thru the woods. Works pretty well for my application.

The problem I have is that the wiring cable from the motor on the unit to the controller in the cab is way short. I think it's like 20' long, but mounted to both of my 4 door (full sized doors) F150 and Ram trucks, the controller won't attach anywhere convenient.

Both times it is near the right knee wall almost on the floor and that's with pulling on the wiring. You really can't mount it under the dash since your knees are here ... tried that 1st and had to remove it.

Any suggestions?

Would be nice if Buyer's offered longer cabling, or extensions to or from the controller.

Open to anyone's ideas.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Can't you just add more wire? I think it's only 10g. Or at best 8g.


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## magnatrac (Dec 22, 2006)

They do offer an extension for the harness not sure of the part number. I just spliced in extra length when I ran into the problem. I didn't want to wait for shipping for the extension. Just use the same gauge wire and heat shrink connectors.


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

magnatrac;1924545 said:


> They do offer an extension for the harness not sure of the part number. I just spliced in extra length when I ran into the problem. I didn't want to wait for shipping for the extension. Just use the same gauge wire and heat shrink connectors.


I added some wire length to the 1st unit. It only had 3 wires ... black, red and yellow.

This new control unit (has a vibrating feature) has 6 wires. A set of larger red and black wires ... then another set of 3 wires: red, green and a yellow with fuse .... and another red wire coming in as well.

All of these wires are about 6" long coming from the back of the controller and plug into 2 separate connectors. The one red single wire comes from somewhere and goes into the back of the unit, too.

So, splicing all these wires would be a PITA since I'm not all that handy with doing this sort of thing.

I had a snow plow place install the unit's wiring. I just assembled the hopper/motor bits. I don't have any way of crawling under the truck to run wires.

If they make an "extension" ... I'd need 2 ... this may solve the problem. I tried to look at the Buyer's site, but could not see any accessories. ??


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Might take it to them and ask them to do it then


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

dieselss;1924578 said:


> Might take it to them and ask them to do it then


I guess I could do this. I'm surprised they didn't decide to do this on their own. Charged me enough to hook this thing up IMO. 3.5 hours charged at $100/hr. But, they've always been expensive.

But, would be nice if there were a 3 foot (or longer) connector for the wires instead of some jury rigged splicing of 6 wires. ??


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

No offence but why? Did you tell them where to put it?
And if you did it yourself you would understand what it takes to run wires sometimes


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

dieselss;1924585 said:


> No offence but why? Did you tell them where to put it?
> And if you did it yourself you would understand what it takes to run wires sometimes


I had the 'old' motor to controller wire and controller ON the truck. When I connected the new motor to the old wire at the back of the truck, the old controller came on ... then went dark. I had to use the old male/female connector with the new motor connector. (sorry, this is a bit complicated unless you are here ... )

Since I couldn't get the old controller to work with the new motor/hopper unit (old motor seized and whole auger/shaft/impeller was useless) .... I decided to have the plow shop check it out. I had the new wire/harness, etc. Shop said wiring was different .. as I said with the number of wires to the controller ... and that's why the old stuff would not work with the new motorized unit. So, they used all the new stuff.

And, like before .... it is waaaaaaaay short. I noticed this when I left with the truck, but we had 6 inches of snow and needed to get home and deal with the driveway. Splicing would have taken them a couple hours I am sure. I'd think using new connectors with 3 feet of wire would be the best deal. This way, I can disconnect the controller when I don't need it in warmer weather, eh.


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

Oh ... regarding where to put it ... I did say I needed some length to put it on the dash. When I picked up the truck, they said the wiring was too short to do this and left it on the floor.

I'm sure if I ran the wires it would have taken me much longer. I'm just saying that for $375 for 3.5 hours work seems a bit LARGE IMO. But, I happily paid it. Everyone needs to make a living.

Plus, these guys do this all the time. This is their job. They've install this type of thing before. They have a lift, experience, wiring, savvy, knowledge of what is needed to make things work and ingenuity. Some of this is lacking.

Look ... I'm not blaming the shop even tho they found out the wiring was too short. I gave them 3 phone numbers. Dropped the truck off at 7AM ... called at 2 PM and they said the truck was ready. They could have called me and said they needed to add to the wiring, or whatever.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Oh your right...imo they should have called.
But sometimes the guys don't always go the extra mile. 
Well if you don't wanna cut and splice then looks like the extension harnesses are your only option


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

dieselss;1924607 said:


> Oh your right...imo they should have called.
> But sometimes the guys don't always go the extra mile.
> Well if you don't wanna cut and splice then looks like the extension harnesses are your only option


I don't fault the shop. Not the 1st time I've had issues with a plow hook up, or the 1st salter unit.

But, would have been nice to have a call. Even when the truck was finished. This place has really poor customer service. You can stand at the parts/service counter for 5 minutes and not have anyone acknowledge that you are standing there. Only this young guy smiles ... the rest just smoke and cuss out side the building. Owner always acts like you're a bother.

But, on the positive side ... they are only 8 miles away.  The other plow shop that does my plows has dented my new truck when hooking up a new plow (and didn't mention it ... nor, pay for it's repair), forgot to connect some cable to the battery and on this truck hooked up the plow that could not be removed unless one drove up on a 2 inch patio paver. WTF? Solved the last issue by adding a 2" billet block to the top of the shock towers. No patio paver necessary.


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

Where would I get the harness extension?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Not sure at all. 
Search the spencers websites


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

From the searches I have done tonight, looks like all the extensions are from the motor to the main wire.

Of course this would make the whole deal longer, but would require redoing everything from the back forward.

That's not a solution I'm looking for.


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## magnatrac (Dec 22, 2006)

The extensions I was talking about plugs into the harness at the back and makes it longer. Hannarv.com has a bunch of buyers harnesses and extensions. If you can't reposition the harness and just plug in to the end of the harness your going to have to splice on your own. What spreader are you running ?


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

magnatrac;1924746 said:


> The extensions I was talking about plugs into the harness at the back and makes it longer. Hannarv.com has a bunch of buyers harnesses and extensions. If you can't reposition the harness and just plug in to the end of the harness your going to have to splice on your own. What spreader are you running ?


Buyers / Saltdawg TG SUV PRO A is the new unit.

I found the pigtail extension from the motor to the main wiring cable. This would require pulling everything forward ... not sure what that would involve, but I can't do it.

And, then there is another issue with this. Adding this extension would expose more wiring to the elements ... potassium and calcium chloride liquid here in CT-Land. More possibilities for corrosion I'd guess.

I don't know what to do at this point. Splicing is a PITA and costly ... then there's the add on pigtail at the butt end of the system. Neither seem to be good solutions, but I may not have much of a choice.


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## magnatrac (Dec 22, 2006)

I have that spreader ,it's well used sitting as a back up. It was a great little spreader . I have replaced the motor 3 times and added steel due to rust. For that spreader you only need 2 wires a hot and a ground. The old harnesses didn't even run a ground back . It ran a hot wire and you grounded it at the back near the plug. I replaced the harness and controller once and got the updated stuff. Out of the controller you should only have a couple wires that need to be longer. How many feet of wire do you need to get it where you would like it. We always mount out spreader controllers down low on the dash in the center. Quality stick on Velcro works great with no holes to drill. 

I know you said the extension isn't an option because you can't do it but if you can lift bags of salt you can do it. You don't need a hoist just use a creeper or piece of cardboard to move under the truck. Just plug in the extension and slide the extra wire forward. . It sounds like you don't need much length if your controller is already on the floor. You can loop and tie the excess wire up under the truck. Use dielectric grease in the plug and wrap it with tape and corrosion will not be an issue. This is a 15 minute job at best. Maybe you could get the harness extension and have your installer finish the job correctly since you already paid a ton for installation. If they have a hoist this is an even simpler quick fix.


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## Bagger (Nov 30, 2009)

Mag ... I fully understand what you are saying. I'm not sure how the shop ran the wires under the truck. I'm sure they are zip tied off to something underneath the vehicle.

It's been running single digits to mid teens temperature at my house. Not conducive to laying under a truck screwing around with this 20' wire and such ... that I'm not all that familiar with. All things seem simple until you start to do them the 1st time. Plus, I'm not 30 years old. 

Mounting the controller under the dash will not work. There is no room there for my knees ... and, you can't see the unit there. I had previous unit mounted about knee high on my truck's central console. Not a good position either, but better than on the floor.

I would prefer enough 'sack' in the wiring to mount the unit on the dash. I've used Velcro high strength on my motorcycles with good results. This would be the best place, and with a detachable harness, could be relegated to a different place in warmer temps.


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