# Truck Overheating with plow!?



## rclay11541 (Oct 26, 2004)

Hey guys,

My 86 F150 overheats when the plow is on it. Ive heard about these air deflector things but i dont want to spend money on something without knowing if it actually works.

If anybody has had this problem i would really like to hear how you fixed it.

P.S. The reason why i am posting this after reading the other posts on this topic is because i just replaced the fan clutch about 4000 miles ago.

Thanks,
Ryan


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## Craftybigdog (Jul 24, 2002)

Yeah with the plow up and going down the road there is no airflow over the radiator. Hove you tried bringing it down some or angling it full left or right and see if that helps.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Craftybigdog said:


> Yeah with the plow up and going down the road there is no airflow over the radiator. Hove you tried bringing it down some or angling it full left or right and see if that helps.


The whole purpose of the clutch fan is to force air thru radiator. The overheating is caused but either a fault clutch fan or the wrong calibration of the fan itself. Also consider truck it 19 years old and radiator core my be plugged up intenally to water flow aggrevating the problem. THe cure is not to drive down the road with the blade in correct "position". FInd the cause (it will be one of the two above) and fix it proper. You could alos consider using a different type of fan (flex or fixed) durring the winter as well to mainntain proper cooling.


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## mx495 (Oct 29, 2004)

Chances are that radiator is a little clogged. Replace it, if possible one with one more row. If that's not the problem, try riding with your plow about 4 inches from the ground fully angled. it will hit the road here and there but you'll get more air. Also try just going a little slower. I always do about 55 on the highway to keep it cooler. I assume it's getting hot when driving? IF it's when actually plowing you do actually have a problem with radiator or something similar.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

mx495 said:


> Chances are that radiator is a little clogged. Replace it, if possible one with one more row. If that's not the problem, try riding with your plow about 4 inches from the ground fully angled. it will hit the road here and there but you'll get more air. Also try just going a little slower. I always do about 55 on the highway to keep it cooler. I assume it's getting hot when driving? IF it's when actually plowing you do actually have a problem with radiator or something similar.


I drive whatever speed I choose with blade as high as it will go with no heating problems because I make sure my cooling system works properly for my needs. If you have to lower plow and limit speed you are masking the real problem. Trucks are supposed to be able to do that stuff if properly designed or setup.


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## LINY Rob (Oct 5, 2004)

Tarkus said:


> I drive whatever speed I choose with blade as high as it will go with no heating problems because I make sure my cooling system works properly for my needs. If you have to lower plow and limit speed you are masking the real problem. Trucks are supposed to be able to do that stuff if properly designed or setup.


with a blade blocking the grille entirely going along at 45 mph or so when the clutch fan disengages there is virtually no air flow through the radiator

truck or car, if you block the air flow it will run hot


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

LINY Rob said:


> with a blade blocking the grille entirely going along at 45 mph or so when the clutch fan disengages there is virtually no air flow through the radiator
> 
> truck or car, if you block the air flow it will run hot


Not if the clutch fan is calibrated properly. In my "trucks" I do not rely on direct air flow from motion to insure my cooling because if you do you will have heating problems with a plow on it. When you do you no longer have a true truck in my book but one of the car truck hybrids that is really neither. I guess I am just old fashsion in that I expect my trucks not to overheat when I use them winter or summer and they do as I want. The word "truck" in pick up truck used to mean something once.


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## LINY Rob (Oct 5, 2004)

perhaps you could share with us how you calibrate your clutch fan ?


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

LINY Rob said:


> perhaps you could share with us how you calibrate your clutch fan ?


Not a problem do you need a picture of it too? The hardest part is getting it on and off to do it.


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## Mark Witcher (Feb 21, 2004)

Get rid of the clutch fan and put on a direct drive fan. Such as a Flex Lite or similar stainless steel unit. If your truck doesnt over heat without the plow , I guarentee it will not over heat with a direct drive Flex fan with plow on.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Mark Witcher said:


> Get rid of the clutch fan and put on a direct drive fan. Such as a Flex Lite or similar stainless steel unit. If your truck doesnt over heat without the plow , I guarentee it will not over heat with a direct drive Flex fan with plow on.


Yes this is always a option too and if you want you can put flex fan on durring winter and put clutch fan back on the rest of the year. Many years ago I used to hzve this old truck with a clutch fan and deep axle ratios that I pulled a heavy horse trailer with and durring the warmer month and would lose the clutch fan and put on a fixed fan for it to keep its cool on long hard grades because clutch fan would not stay in at higher RPMs. It was a little noiseir but it worked like a champ.


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## rclay11541 (Oct 26, 2004)

First thank you all for your sugestions,

Here is what i have tried to correct the problem.

1. Putting an air deflector device that i made on the front of the grille, its basicly a big pice of plexi glass angled up. That helped very little.

2. Droping the plow as low as i dare and angleing it.

It still runs hot and thats when im doing about 35mph.

a new larger radiator for my truck is a good idea but since there are no more lawns to cut i dont have alot of cash flow. The idea of a flex clutch or fixed clutch does interest me quite a bit.
My first question is have any of you guys ever had a problem with them? My concern is that the fan blades will actually fly off or something in the engine compartment, excuse me if thats a ridiculous idea ive just never used them before.
My second question is how much would you guys say that helps cooling? ALOT, SOME?

Thanks to all who replied i really do appretiate you guys taking the time.

Ryan


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## RAYJAY (Feb 6, 2004)

did any one try to install a e- fan pusher type in front of rad . with a temp control on it .
with the e-fan you can even get rid of the regular fan and save a few hp for better performance on truck

Jeff

here is a picture with link










http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page18.html


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## rclay11541 (Oct 26, 2004)

that is a good idea, however, this is strictly a work truck. So money is a big concern (im freaking broke, IRS problems, don't ask). 

about the flex fan idea i found one at summit. If i under stand how this thing works i remove the old fan and clutch,,,install a 2 inch spacer and then bolt the fan on?


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## RAYJAY (Feb 6, 2004)

no with this type of fan you will install it in front of rad and set it up as a pusher type (push air thru the rad ) just leave the reg fan in its place 
2 eway to wire it in you can wire it with a switch to run as need (you judge or use one of the temp sensor with it to auto run as need .

here is a good link for you to read you can also get a12 fan out of a junkyard and mod it to work

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

rclay11541 said:


> that is a good idea, however, this is strictly a work truck. So money is a big concern (im freaking broke, IRS problems, don't ask).
> 
> about the flex fan idea i found one at summit. If i under stand how this thing works i remove the old fan and clutch,,,install a 2 inch spacer and then bolt the fan on?


Yes you are correct on install of this and if wold be the correct path and just for the record even a bigger radiator will not help as airflow is your problem. And on a electric pucher or puller fan they are okay as a suppliment but as a primary device they cannot move the same amount of air or provide as much cooling as a properly calibrated clutch fan or flex fan. To do so they would need to use more power than the altenator can deliver. Let us know how the flex fan works out for you. You do not need a really "nasty" on either if they have a few styles of them to choose from.


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

Tarkus said:


> Not a problem do you need a picture of it too? The hardest part is getting it on and off to do it.


I would like to know and see the picture. I have never heard of such a thing. Fill us in..


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Crumm said:


> I would like to know and see the picture. I have never heard of such a thing. Fill us in..


I will post a few pics later today after I figure out where kids have stashed the camera.


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

have you tried lowering the blade or angling the blade for better air flow
on my f-250 if it runs hot at high speed i just slow down 
john


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

As I have said before a truck is not a truck if you have to slow down or lower blade to stay cool. Fix the problem properly and use it as a truck.


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

sometime you gotta do what you gotta do
what do you plow with ?
john


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

No so if you "fix it" correctly because I do not have any problems at all hot or cold, plow or not.


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

Not all trucks are the same, not all plows are the same, not all climates are the same. Some brand new trucks overheat with certain plows on them. You just have a setup that works.

Tarkus, I still want you to explain how to properly calibrate a fan clutch. I have been around for a year or two and have never heard of such a thing. Teach us something new..


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Crumm said:


> Not all trucks are the same, not all plows are the same, not all climates are the same. Some brand new trucks overheat with certain plows on them. You just have a setup that works.
> 
> Tarkus, I still want you to explain how to properly calibrate a fan clutch. I have been around for a year or two and have never heard of such a thing. Teach us something new..


Here is a picture of the temp sensor coil on clutch fan


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

Ok? so what do we do with it?


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

to calibrate your fan first thing you do is hook the fan to the thing of a ging
spin it using the snook a noodle and if all else fail use a big hammer for proper calibration
dont forget your safty goggles and gloves 
dont do this at home. test should be done by a factory trained tech   
john


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Next you have to tweak it. First you unhook coil and record its postition against the stop in counter clockwise motion and record it as point "A" as seen below. You then bend/index coil in the direction of "C" about 1/16 of a inch for more aggressive fan action or in the direction of "B" for less agressive action. I would not go over 1/8 inch in either direction for starters because it is sensitive. I have done this lots of times.


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

Now the end of it is free floating and not secured anymore?


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Crumm said:


> Now the end of it is free floating and not secured anymore?


No you replace it in the postion of first picture when you are done.


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

I guess I don't get what you mean by bending it 1/16 of an inch. When you remove it from the grove it is going to be like a spring. Hard to bend a spring 1/16". Something here I am not grasping?


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Example, after you bend/reindex coil it old position against stop couter clockwise is shown as "D" and the new postion is shown as "E" before coil is returned to notch for more aggressive action


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

i bet the core is blocked .  the fan cluth adjustment will only work if the air is getting to the fan
john


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Crumm said:


> I guess I don't get what you mean by bending it 1/16 of an inch. When you remove it from the grove it is going to be like a spring. Hard to bend a spring 1/16". Something here I am not grasping?


Okay, record position before bending is VERY important. To make it more agreesive wind the coil clock wise against the stop and a bit beyond to reindex coild a bit. You have to feel this one out a bit and go a little further past stop each time and check it each time until you gain the proper amount.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

CARDOCTOR said:


> i bet the core is blocked .  the fan cluth adjustment will only work if the air is getting to the fan
> john


Not so because it work on temp of air gong thru core to engage and if the setting is not very aggresive it will never engage proper in cold weather because the cold air is never heated enough to activate coil


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

OK I think I understand but by the time I need to "calibrate" one I suppose I will have forgot how to do it but at least I once knew how.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Unless someone delets the thread or you can save it or print it out or they could make a sticky about it too


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## Crumm (Nov 5, 2003)

All the posts from 4 years ago are still here so it shouldn't get deleted. It is a matter of remembering where to look weather it be here or in my file cabinet for a hard copy. Doesn't really matter where it is when you suffer from CRS.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

It is a bit of a fuss to do but well worth the effort if you are having heating problems.


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

remove the fan clutch all together and be done with it
if the core is partially blocked it still going to run hot
no matter what you do
john


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

CARDOCTOR said:


> remove the fan clutch all together and be done with it
> if the core is partially blocked it still going to run hot
> no matter what you do
> john


If the fan does not work or there is no positive airflow it will not cool! This is a airflow issue if it overheats in cold weather with a plow and fine in hot weather without it plan and simple


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

so do you think playing with the fan cluch is going to make it work better NO!
your just trying to bump up your post number
600+ post since november you have too much free time


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

CARDOCTOR said:


> so do you think playing with the fan cluch is going to make it work better NO!
> your just trying to bump up your post number
> 600+ post since november you have too much free time


You base this opnion on doing it right? I think not either. Do not knock something you do not understand or never tried.


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## CARDOCTOR (Nov 29, 2002)

ive done it before. however this is not the correct application
dont give the guy info if its not going to fix the problem
im impressed by your knowledge dont know if anybody else is  
john


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

CARDOCTOR said:


> ive done it before. however this is not the correct application
> dont give the guy info if its not going to fix the problem
> im impressed by your knowledge dont know if anybody else is
> john


My info is correct and works. You used it wrong info or had a bad or too small a cluthc (they do have a torque limit too) if yours did not work.

I am not trying to impress anyone but only provide a better fix than "drivein with plow down or angled and at low speed" to slow the cooking of engine and tranny.


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## BLIZZARD BUSTER (Apr 1, 2004)

We Had The Same Problem With A Couple Of Our Trucks-running Hot With The Plow Up. We Would Just Lower And Angle The Plow. It Helped Some. We Just Ended Up Buying Bigger Radiators. No Problem Now!


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

No surprize here, a thicker core would heat the air more as it passes through and make clutch fan more likely to work in cold weather. A simpler, quicker and cheaper "fix" would have been a better fan or better clutch calibration.


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## Mark Witcher (Feb 21, 2004)

rclay11541 said:


> that is a good idea, however, this is strictly a work truck. So money is a big concern (im freaking broke, IRS problems, don't ask).
> 
> about the flex fan idea i found one at summit. If i under stand how this thing works i remove the old fan and clutch,,,install a 2 inch spacer and then bolt the fan on?


Yes exactly. My Flex Lite fan is rated for 10,000 rpm. It aint gonna fly apart. Its noisier than the clutch fan setup, and thats because its turning at full engine speed. The electric fans can help when you add them in front of the radiator while still using the stock fan. But do you really want to load your electrical system anymore on a plow truck? Your problem is the clutch fan not pulling air through the radiator, you dont need a bigger radiator if you dont have any problems in the summer.


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

Mark Witcher said:


> Yes exactly. My Flex Lite fan is rated for 10,000 rpm. It aint gonna fly apart. Its noisier than the clutch fan setup, and thats because its turning at full engine speed. The electric fans can help when you add them in front of the radiator while still using the stock fan. But do you really want to load your electrical system anymore on a plow truck?


Very good point! I prefer the proper engine driven fans for this myself.


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## clean cut (Dec 4, 2004)

i also have had problems with heat driving on highway only and with one of my pickups thats a diesel. its a 96 chev 1 ton with boss v plow. all i do is
lower the plow straighting it out so it dosnt hit the road and the temp. drops
form 220 to 180 right away.i tell the guys to watch it we dont do that match
highway travel anyway.


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## LINY Rob (Oct 5, 2004)

tarkus- do you have any proof that this modification actually does anything different for the operation of the fan?

did you have a truck running warm, perform this modification with no other work being done, and then solve your hot problem?

if you did- how long have you been running with this modification with no ill effects from it running all the time?


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

LINY Rob said:


> tarkus- do you have any proof that this modification actually does anything different for the operation of the fan?
> 
> did you have a truck running warm, perform this modification with no other work being done, and then solve your hot problem?
> 
> if you did- how long have you been running with this modification with no ill effects from it running all the time?


Yes I have done this many times and it does work. I recently tweaked one this summer on a 15 year old GM truck that was getting a bit hot in summer on hills (fan would not come in until 210 on gauge), It fixed the problem and I had a plow truck several years ago that over heated and it cured that too. Bad side effects? If you go to far adjusting it fan will run more than if should maybe but you can tweak it back a bit if that happens. A little bit goes a long way when tweaking. I would not have a plow truck parked in my driveway or on the job that had to be nursed along with plow low and at lower speeds to keep from slow cooking but others "might" find it acceptable. My one ton has never been tweaked because it has never even got to 200 in its life yet, plow or not, slow or fast, hot or cold outside and I carry my plows all the way up or close to it. Some people place importance on maxiimum power, I place the abilty of a truck to stay cool no matter what at far greater importance myself.


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## Bldrs83 (Nov 26, 2004)

Hey "clean cut". I had a similar set-up as you ('97 Chevrolet diesel w/Vee blade) and did the same thing with lowering the blade. What you can also do is slightly move your wings forward to be able to drop the top edge of the blade down even further exposing even more of the radiator. I would always run as close to the road as I could to get air to the factory auxiliary engine oil cooler that comes on the diesels (looks just like the transmission cooler but is on the driver side and the tranny cooler is on the passenger side.)


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## lawnmedic (Jan 9, 2004)

Yes I have tried tweaking the fan clutch before, however a replacement clutch only costs 30.00 and has a lifetime warranty. The spring you are messing with is spring steel and is very susceptible to breaking if bent or damaged. 

Also since I did not see it mentioned, Make sure that your fan should is in perfect condition and mounts properly. If the fan and should are mot positioned correctly everything else is mute...


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## rclay11541 (Oct 26, 2004)

Holly crap guys thankyou all for reasponding.

I decided it was in the trucks best interest to replace the radiator. I knew going in that it wasn't going to be a complete fix. The reason i did this is because the truck always ran a little hot. PS the old rad was only about an inch thick.

With the plow up and striaght traveling at 45mph it still does get very very warm, not to the point to overheating like it used to but still not at a leval that im satisfied with. 

Angleing or running it a couple inches off the ground doesn't help, in my case angleing it actually exacerbates the problem.

I think im going to try tarkus suggestions about the recalibration. If that doesn't work i will put on a flex fan. 

Of course if all else fails im just going to take a 308 and put a couple holes in the plow  ,,,,  

ONCE AGAIN THANKYOU ALL FOR REASPONDING SO DILIGENTLY I REALLY DO APPRETIATE IT!!!

Tarkus what do you use to bend the spring? Flathead screwdriver? What do you do if after releasing the spring from the post it holds on to it goes past the other post?

Ryan


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## ljbev (Dec 17, 2001)

I had an 86 f-250 until recently

Thicker Hd radiator is a must that wafer that comes in it will not have enough coolant circulating to cool you off.. make sure you have the fan shroud in place.. moving the blade around my truck had a sweet spot move left right and try and find it. I had mine all the way up against the stops...may have to shorten your lift chain to get it that high..creates flow under the blade. If this fails contact #1 plowtech on this board I believe he sells a scoop that goes on the top of the plow to redirect air down. Or my brother uses 3" pvc attached to the light arms. It looks like hell but it works and cheap
im me let me know how you do


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## osbo68 (Dec 1, 2004)

Dang tarkus you make me laugh! Damn straight it's a truck and is designed to do a job. I can run 75mph with my plow on at full lift and never get's halfway on the guage. I try not to go over 65 but sometimes you just gotta pass  Don't have time to dilly dally around gotta get 'er done! TRy the flex fan. They are cheap and easy to install. Always good when broke! A 6 or 7 blade should get the job done. :yow!:


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

ljbev said:


> I had an 86 f-250 until recently
> 
> Thicker Hd radiator is a must that wafer that comes in it will not have enough coolant circulating to cool you off.


Not so, if you had no heating issues in hot weather but you do in cool weather with a plow it is airflow issue not a radiator problem. I have set up several plow trucks and none of them had cooling problems when done and none of them required a new radiator either if they were cooling fine otherwise. Fix the airflow problem properly and the heating issue will go away but hey it is your money and time and if you would rather spend several hundred dollars and and several hours as well with a new radiator, knock yourself out or you could spend a lot less time and fix it correctly to begin with by installing a flex fan or a recalibrated clutch fan hub. The choice is yours.


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## bersh (Dec 12, 2003)

lawnmedic said:


> Yes I have tried tweaking the fan clutch before, however a replacement clutch only costs 30.00 and has a lifetime warranty. The spring you are messing with is spring steel and is very susceptible to breaking if bent or damaged.
> 
> Also since I did not see it mentioned, Make sure that your fan should is in perfect condition and mounts properly. If the fan and should are mot positioned correctly everything else is mute...


Where are you able to find a thermal fan clutch for $30 w/lifetime warranty?

The best I can do for my 94 Chevy is $44 + tax for an off-brand regular duty w/2 yr. warranty. The heavy duty models are $70 and have 5 yr. warranty.

Thanks,

Scott


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## kl0an (Dec 12, 2003)

If this little coil is a sensor, how the heck does winding it 1/8" tighter make it change the speed at which it quits running?? It's electronic isn't it?? And then you're tucking it right back in the same position that you started in.. Why not just take a hammer and tap it here and there, that would have the same effect.. 

Somebody BESIDES Tarkus please explain this to me. I want an unbiased answer because I had to check the date on this post and make sure it's not April 1st.. 

and yes, 760 posts in less than 2 months is quite excessive..


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## bersh (Dec 12, 2003)

kl0an said:


> If this little coil is a sensor, how the heck does winding it 1/8" tighter make it change the speed at which it quits running?? It's electronic isn't it?? And then you're tucking it right back in the same position that you started in.. Why not just take a hammer and tap it here and there, that would have the same effect..


It's not electric, it's mechanical. It is a bimetal spring that expands as it gets hotter. These springs are used in thermostatically-controlled devices in numerous applications. By tweaking the spring, it is causing the spring to be a little longer. When the spring heats up, it expands even more. What this tweaking does is cause the clutch to engage earlier. These springs don't have to move(expand & contract due to temp) very much to cause the effect they are designed to, so 1/8" could be enough to force the clutch to be engaged all the time.

Scott


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## Four Season's (Oct 19, 2004)

I noticed my truck started to heat just a little bit the other day with the plow on. (It was far from over-heating) I turned the heater on full blast and the temp went back to normal. I know you guys probably will think that's homeless, but it seemed to help. Might be something to keep in mind when in a bind??


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## Dnipro Max (Aug 27, 2004)

Hello, Truck should not over heat if its in good working condition, my truck once when i was doing about 80 with plow all the way up my temp gage went about 3/4 and fan turn on, but when i carry plow under my plow lights (like its have to be) i never have any overheating temp gage at 1/2 mark


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## daninline (Nov 1, 2004)

If you crank the heat it will help cool it down since it's pulling heat out.


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## LINY Rob (Oct 5, 2004)

why in god's name would you be going 80mph with a 600 pound plus plow on the front of your truck???


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## PlowboyBlake (Dec 17, 2003)

I drove 80 on the Interstate with my plow on the other day, I'm not gonna slow down just cause I got a plow on


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## LINY Rob (Oct 5, 2004)

PlowboyBlake said:


> I drove 80 on the Interstate with my plow on the other day, I'm not gonna slow down just cause I got a plow on


thats real responsible, lol

if your truck has 2 electric fans or a electric and a mechanical fan, the 2nd fan is usually triggered by hitting the defroster which activates the compressor and the 2nd fan, in the summer when you put the A/C on it will also come on.


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## Dnipro Max (Aug 27, 2004)

l was just saying that if u drive around 55-65 nothing will over heat with good working truck, and i was on interstate, so no slowing down with or with out plow, when every one drives same speed, u have to keep up,


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## PlowboyBlake (Dec 17, 2003)

LINY Rob said:


> thats real responsible, lol QUOTE]
> 
> Hey Oh MIGHTY,
> 
> I can drive as fast as I want, Law pending. If I want to take my big diesel down the interstate at 80 to keep up with traffic, I CAN. WHO ARE YOU TO TELL ME NOT TO AND THAT I'M IRRESPONSIBLE? Piss off and mind your own beezwax.


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## LINY Rob (Oct 5, 2004)

whoa easy there plowboy

I just hope if you use that truck for business you dont end up killing someone and getting sued and/or going to jail.

you can go as fast as you want, just remember when its time to hit the brakes its a long way to stop


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## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

*Overheating Problems*

I really can relate to all of you with the FORD overheating problems ...while the plow is on. Do a search of my posts and check out what I did to try and solve this problem ... Hope it helps .


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## Tarkus (Nov 19, 2004)

LINY Rob said:


> whoa easy there plowboy
> 
> I just hope if you use that truck for business you dont end up killing someone and getting sued and/or going to jail.
> 
> you can go as fast as you want, just remember when its time to hit the brakes its a long way to stop


Yes and you better have lot of Insurance coverage too because at those speeds if anything goes wrong it will be all over before you know it most of the time. It can take a long time to stop from 80 plus on wet or slick paverment with a plow no matter what brand truck you have or its power source type.


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## rtp (Jan 14, 2005)

*Overheating*

Have you tried "The Coooler". It is a patented product that redirects the airflow into your radiator. It works GREAT. I had the same problems with my truck overheating and now that I have attached The Coooler to my plow, I haven't had any more problems. There are only a few dealers who handle it. You could call 1-888-906-1120 for more info.


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## Backlash63 (Jan 4, 2005)

We run a 16" Flex-a-lite on our '96 F250, it deff helps. I put a bigger rad, new water pump, t-stat, hoses, thinking it would clear it up. So i opted for the fan. now i can run the plow higher and not have it over heat. I run two fans on 302 ranger without any mechinical fan with no problems.


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## rtp (Jan 14, 2005)

*overheating*

I found the product called the coooler, It solved my overheating, It works great get one at 1-888-906-1120


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## mylawn03 (Nov 5, 2003)

Don't they make some kind of clutch fan where you can manually disengage or engage the clutch, so that your fan is always running or only when clutch wants it to...anyone understand what I'm talking about? :redbounce


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## trying to make (Dec 18, 2004)

I did not think the bigger radiator would help either if you are not getting enough airflow.However,My friend just put a new V-plow on his chevy.Overheated bad.Put on larger radiator problem solved.I will not say that he needed alarger radiator since he did not flush system out first.So I suggest a complete flushing of system Having a qualified mechanic check it for proper flow and go from there.My friend had less than $250.00 in radiator and install.Good luck


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## RAYJAY (Feb 6, 2004)

"The Coooler"
The Pavey "Coooler" will keep your plow truck's temperature gauge in the normal range while driving between those snowplow jobs!









What "The Coooler" does:
# Directs airflow to your radiator with the blade in the full-up and straight position.
# Safer driving - no more driving with the blade just above the road!
# Protects your cooling system and engine by keeping the temperature in the normal range.
# Universal mounting system adapts to any straight blade plow.

here is trhe direct link to his site

http://www.citlink.com/~rrpavey/


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## trying to make (Dec 18, 2004)

80 miles an hour with a plow that is ridiculous.with that big plow on the front.I can use mine as a bumper.So I do 90-95.And with no inference If I hit someone I make sure I do it right and just keep driving.Well I have been reading a lot of angry post on here today.Mostly about old Jim.Thought I would throw some gas on the fire.Sorry.I have done about 75 on the interstate in dry conditions to stay with traffic.Maybe It was wrong,But will do the same thing again if the same situation arrives.And that was with a 9 foot Western.But I try not to drive with Plow on Unless plowing like most of you I hope.


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## repo_man62 (Oct 24, 2004)

See if this works. Took a piece of galvanized, cut to fit, dropped temp 20-40 deg.


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## Mark Witcher (Feb 21, 2004)

rtp said:


> I found the product called the coooler, It solved my overheating, It works great get one at 1-888-906-1120


I know you think that the COOLER is new and revolutionary, but Blizzard has been making one as an option to their plows for at least 2 years now.


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