# 2010 2500 Cummins ball joints



## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Well looks like 2 storms of plowing have destroyed my ball joints. This past storm there was tons of clunking from the front end over bumps etc. With the plow off today it's still doing it over bumps. Looks as if lower ball joints on dodges are common. I'll lift it off the ground and check for movement this weekend. 

So what are you guys running for plowing? I always upgrade to better parts, and with plowing I definitely want something stout. And from what I've read the axles are sealed so I can pull axles shafts without oil coming out. But I'll need a press right? Thanks.


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## skorum03 (Mar 8, 2013)

mega10cab;1732952 said:


> Well looks like 2 storms of plowing have destroyed my ball joints. This past storm there was tons of clunking from the front end over bumps etc. With the plow off today it's still doing it over bumps. Looks as if lower ball joints on dodges are common. I'll lift it off the ground and check for movement this weekend.
> 
> So what are you guys running for plowing? I always upgrade to better parts, and with plowing I definitely want something stout. And from what I've read the axles are sealed so I can pull axles shafts without oil coming out. But I'll need a press right? Thanks.


I would assume you'll need a press. Not entirely positive on a 2010. Never worked on something that new. I just did ball joints and U joints and shocks on front end both sides. No more clunking for me.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

My u joints were replaced about 8k miles ago under warranty. Reading online 2003-2011 are the same parts and same steps. I'll need a press. I've always worked on my own stuff but this seems pretty labor intensive. 

Ive always had good luck with moog. Should I continue to use moog even with plowing?


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## skorum03 (Mar 8, 2013)

It is labor intensive for sure. Plowing is hard on things no matter what you;re using. Preservation of parts and a vehicle is in the hands of the operator.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Oh yeah. It's definitely hard on them. I've always known that. I plow pretty easy compared to tons of others I see. 10-15mph max and almost always in 2wd too. Now the manholes etc are a different story. I generally know where my problem ones are but during the terrible snows I'm sure I'm not the only one who loses track of them at times.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

I vote Dyna Trac.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

You need a ball joint press. 

Moog is fine. 

Check bearings too. Dodge is known for that


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

jhenderson9196;1733032 said:


> I vote Dyna Trac.


That price though!!! Commence chest pains now lol. To me, it's not worth spending tons of money on ball joints on these trucks. The lower takes all the vehicle weight so it's gonna wear fast no matter what. Lower BJs have always been a bad issue.

The uppers are more of a guide and take much longer to wear out. I'm not looking to replace those for awhile.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

mega10cab;1733041 said:


> That price though!!! Commence chest pains now lol. To me, it's not worth spending tons of money on ball joints on these trucks. The lower takes all the vehicle weight so it's gonna wear fast no matter what. Lower BJs have always been a bad issue.
> 
> The uppers are more of a guide and take much longer to wear out. I'm not looking to replace those for awhile.


You have to take uppers out to do the bottom. The press goes through the top hole


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1733049 said:


> You have to take uppers out to do the bottom. The press goes through the top hole


Damnit lol. So by taking the uppers out their not reusable? Or is it one of those "their out, mine as well replace" deals?


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

mega10cab;1733057 said:


> Damnit lol. So by taking the uppers out their not reusable? Or is it one of those "their out, mine as well replace" deals?


Idk about being reusable. It's defiantly one of those replace it while your in there things.

I just do all 4 every season. Do the bearings every other season.

I've used expensive and cheap it hasn't made a difference. I get them from advance with 30% off coupon online. Than pick up in store


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

The uppers wear out just as fast. If you're hearing a clunk the uppers might be the problem. They would allow the tire to wobble


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1733063 said:


> Idk about being reusable. It's defiantly one of those replace it while your in there things.
> 
> I just do all 4 every season. Do the bearings every other season.
> 
> I've used expensive and cheap it hasn't made a difference. I get them from advance with 30% off coupon online. Than pick up in store


That's the route I was looking at going, just some cheap advance ones. Are you using the TRT30 code? I've been using it for years lol.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1733064 said:


> The uppers wear out just as fast. If you're hearing a clunk the uppers might be the problem. They would allow the tire to wobble


Gotcha. I was reading how the uppers were much problem. Goes to show how long it's been since I've done ball joints, I was thinking the lowers caused the wobble. 
So who's local that wants to help? Lol I've got all tools besides the press which I can rent.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Hope you have a torch too. We did the ball joints in my brother's 08 ram two years ago. It was a stubborn sob and took about a day and a half with a lift and s full compliment of tools. They needed done again this year. Needless to say, it went to the mechanics this time.


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## skorum03 (Mar 8, 2013)

peteo1;1733139 said:


> Hope you have a torch too. We did the ball joints in my brother's 08 ram two years ago. It was a stubborn sob and took about a day and a half with a lift and s full compliment of tools. They needed done again this year. Needless to say, it went to the mechanics this time.


Mine were a total bit&% to get off too. Everything was stuck. Took us about 2 days to do. Glad we had a torch.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Don't tell me this stuff lol. I don't have a lift but many years wrenching and jacks/stands and all the tools. My truck isn't that old but I'm sure there gonna be stuck. I'm 50/50 on doing this myself. It's gonna cost a ton to take to my mechanic but it's gonna be a major b!tch go do myself.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

if you keep searching you will find an alternate to moog, dont get me wrong moog are the best of the best but I remember seeing an odd ball name that offers an indestructible version of ball joints, think of it this way , doing ball joints is a lot of labour, if you can do it all your self you are going to cut 60% off your bill,


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Do not use a torch on ball joints. That is a horrible idea. They literally explode very easily. 

All you need a is BFH (ball pein) and a press. An air hammer helps. 

You have to rake hub off spindle, pull axle out, and then take off spindle. 

I can do a whole truck in an hour depending on rust. Sometimes the hubs are a pain in the ass to get off


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1733318 said:


> Do not use a torch on ball joints. That is a horrible idea. They literally explode very easily.
> 
> All you need a is BFH (ball pein) and a press. An air hammer helps.
> 
> ...


Oh I'm very familiar with a BFH. Sometimes I over use one, especially during frustrating jobs. And I'm pretty sure advance auto still rents ball joint kits etc.

You should drive up and help one Saturday haha. Got a heated garage. Just no lift. I'll be doing it old school, floor jack and stands lol.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Sure if you know someone that will buy a curbing trailer in your area. Lol I need to sell this thing. 

Advance rents them just make sure it's not cracked.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

go on youtube and search changing ball joints on a 3500 ram, there is a few videos of how to take the wheel bearing packs out easier, and some complete processes on how to do it, start picking out your ball joints, there seems to be a lot ,Carli racing, spicer, raybestos, moog, dynatrac, and XRF , XRF is offering a million mile warranty,guess they never heard on snow plow trucks


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Yeah snap on has an adaptor that goes on the backside. You put it on the bolts and turn the the wheel. When you turn it it pushes against the bolt and usually pushes hub out 

I have it rarely use it. Usually just split it with air hammer chisel


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

The one video I watched, they put a deep well socket in, turned the wheel and hit the opposite side with a BFH and the socket pushed out the hub. I'm sure I can do myself but it's been a long time since I've done them and it' seems like a ton of work. But I surely don't wanna pay a mechanic. I do 95% of my own work.

Plus I'm not reading too many good things about the XRFs over on my truck forum.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Thats the principle. Don't hit the flange hard if Youre not replacing the bearing 

The reason for the adaptor is sometimes the deep wall isn't not enough to allow you to put pressure on it. 

I lost it one time and used a 3 inch extension. That bbent like a pretzel lol


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1733533 said:


> Thats the principle. Don't hit the flange hard if Youre not replacing the bearing
> 
> The reason for the adaptor is sometimes the deep wall isn't not enough to allow you to put pressure on it.
> 
> I lost it one time and used a 3 inch extension. That bbent like a pretzel lol


Ahh gotcha. I was wondering the reason for the deep well. My truck has been leveled with 35s for 2yrs/30k miles so I know that played a factor in the wear, and the plow this year finally did them in. Bearings were checked a few months back when the front u joints got warrantied and they were fine. I think they'll still be fine.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

XRF suck.Warranty says return to MFG. for replacement. How long can you be without your truck. I said Dyna Trac because I've used XRF and Moog already. 348,000 miles and the last set I put in are Dyna Trac. At least if these start to go, they are rebuildable, IN THE TRUCK. The problem with continual replacement is the holes in the knuckle wear out. Then you really have a problem.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

There's chances for multiple snow events the next few weeks. I'm going to replace them ASAP but will driving around for a little cause further issues? The plow is only on the truck for storms. It stays off otherwise. I don't plan on putting this job off, but with my full time job and plowing, my free time is limited.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

They have to be REALLY LOOSE to cause permanent harm.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

jhenderson9196;1734171 said:


> They have to be REALLY LOOSE to cause permanent harm.


Right now their clunking around. Steering doesn't really seem wobbly either... Yet. And no death wobble. While getting it figured out, buying the parts and time to replace I wanted know if she's ok to keep driving until replaced. I really don't want to tackle this myself. Unless I find someone to help I may not have a choice though.


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## jhenderson9196 (Nov 14, 2010)

How loose is loose? Can't give an honest opinion without seeing them. My guess would be run it til you have time to fix it right. They'll clunk a long time before they break.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

My boss ran clunking ball joints for 8 months. All while heavy towing, farm driving, job sites etc. I won't be waiting that long lol. I'm sure it'll be fine until I order the parts. Hopefully next weekend I can replace them.


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## myzx6 (Nov 17, 2013)

mega10cab;1734784 said:


> My boss ran clunking ball joints for 8 months. All while heavy towing, farm driving, job sites etc. I won't be waiting that long lol. I'm sure it'll be fine until I order the parts. Hopefully next weekend I can replace them.


Have you even jacked it up yet to make sure its actually the ball joints that are clunking, stabilizer bushings and links can make a lot of noise when they wear out too


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

You should have whiffyspark do it. Ive been in the repair biz for 35 years and there is no way I could do ball joints both sides in less than 4 hours running fast. Especially an average job that needs steeraxle joints and some brake work. I lose a guy for a day.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

damian;1736955 said:


> You should have whiffyspark do it. Ive been in the repair biz for 35 years and there is no way I could do ball joints both sides in less than 4 hours running fast. Especially an average job that needs steeraxle joints and some brake work. I lose a guy for a day.


Your guys need to work more efficient.

I kid you not I was a mechanic for many many years.

I can rebuild an entire front end in less than 4 hours with alignment


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## myzx6 (Nov 17, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1736994 said:


> Your guys need to work more efficient.
> 
> I kid you not I was a mechanic for many many years.
> 
> I can rebuild an entire front end in less than 4 hours with alignment


4 hours is definitely very reasonable with air tools on a lift especially if the toe adjustment sleeves move fairly easy, I have an about 3ft pipe wrench for just that reason


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

myzx6;1737026 said:


> 4 hours is definitely very reasonable with air tools on a lift especially if the toe adjustment sleeves move fairly easy, I have an about 3ft pipe wrench for just that reason


I torch those lol. Also have the claws and a 2 ft ratchet for them.

I like to make things as easy and quick as possible.

Doing just ball joints on a normal truck. Yeah an hour hour and a half total at the most


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## myzx6 (Nov 17, 2013)

Whiffyspark;1737035 said:


> I torch those lol. Also have the claws and a 2 ft ratchet for them.
> 
> I like to make things as easy and quick as possible.
> 
> Doing just ball joints on a normal truck. Yeah an hour hour and a half total at the most


I love doing lower ball joints on half tons, I only use my press to install them. A couple good hits with my large snap on dead blow and they are out in less time then it would take to open the case to my ball joint press! My bay at my shop is our alignment rack and I prefer doing most jobs on the rack then a regular 2 post lift, most of the time atleast


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

myzx6;1737050 said:


> I love doing lower ball joints on half tons, I only use my press to install them. A couple good hits with my large snap on dead blow and they are out in less time then it would take to open the case to my ball joint press! My bay at my shop is our alignment rack and I prefer doing most jobs on the rack then a regular 2 post lift, most of the time atleast


Be careful on the f150s. Ford has an oversize ball joint for them because the controls arms being aluminum messed up the tolerances. So some aftermarket ball joints will still make a noise when installed


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

I won't be doing this on a lift either. A friend of mine is a tech at the local dodge dealer. He offered to bring his press and better impact gun and lend a hand for a small fee. I'll take him up on it. 

He said we could get it done in one evening. Guess he's done it enough times that it'll be quick with him.


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## djr623 (Oct 20, 2011)

I am not a huge fan of moog ball joints. I got about a year and a half(10k miles) out of a set of uppers. Put all four in originally. I do like moog for wheel bearings,I did a set on my brother's mega. They had the best warranty(3 years vs 1 year). Yes it was a pain to get the hub out of the knuckle,I used a socket and wedged a bfh then turn the wheel method. The snap on tool is really nice though.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

djr623;1737306 said:


> I am not a huge fan of moog ball joints. I got about a year and a half(10k miles) out of a set of uppers. Put all four in originally. I do like moog for wheel bearings,I did a set on my brother's mega. They had the best warranty(3 years vs 1 year). Yes it was a pain to get the hub out of the knuckle,I used a socket and wedged a bfh then turn the wheel method. The snap on tool is really nice though.


Any brand besides xrf, moog, carli or dynatrac you recommend? I surely can't fork out the money for dynatrac or carli. I've never had an issue with moog, but recently people seem to be not happy with them. Not sure what has changed.


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## djr623 (Oct 20, 2011)

I used napa brand ball joints when I replaced the moogs. I am not sure who manufactured them and I can't vouch for the longevity of them, i ended up selling that truck about six months later. hopefully someone else can give you some long term field reports on what they've used


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

I've heard a lot of good things about the napa ones. What confuses me on their site though is the uppers... One is listed with a degree angle or something and one is not. Not sure the difference.


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

mega10cab;1737354 said:


> I've heard a lot of good things about the napa ones. What confuses me on their site though is the uppers... One is listed with a degree angle or something and one is not. Not sure the difference.


 I read somewhere that if you go get a pre install alignment done and your adjustment is near the adjustment travel end you would install a ball joint that adds an extra adjustment factor by adding a offset ball joint


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

mega10cab;1737319 said:


> Any brand besides xrf, moog, carli or dynatrac you recommend? I surely can't fork out the money for dynatrac or carli. I've never had an issue with moog, but recently people seem to be not happy with them. Not sure what has changed.


I seem to remember reading somewhere that Moog is now manufactured in Mexico. If its true then that may have a lot to do with peoples dissatisfaction


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

cl733;1737563 said:


> I read somewhere that if you go get a pre install alignment done and your adjustment is near the adjustment travel end you would install a ball joint that adds an extra adjustment factor by adding a offset ball joint


Youre correct.

buy no offset ones. The adjustable ones adjust caster more if I remember right. Ive never needed a set

Caster doesn't affect tire wear either way


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Think I'm going to go with the napa brand. My buddy said he'd get those too as he has them in his 2nd gen farm truck and have been good for 2yrs now.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Napa is fine. 

I wouldn't worry about buying super reliable high dollar front end parts. They need to be replaced every other year it seems like.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

That's exactly my thought. I'm gonna be replacing them every other season at max so I can't justify the money for more expensive ones.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

When you get done you will have to let us know how you made out. An account of what it really took and if you would do it for a few hours pay. good luck.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Just an update, jacked up the front end and the tires moves back and forth when pushing on too/bottom of it. Using a pry bar I can move the knuckle up/down a good bit. Definitely the ball joints. Calling for a potential major storm next week so I may try to knock this out Saturday. I'll keep everyone updated on how it goes. Thanks for the help thus far fellas.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Make sure you actually look under it and have someone wiggle it. Wiggling top and bottom is usually bearings. Pry bar under neatha is ball joints usually


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

I tried taking videos of what was moving etc. but hard to do myself. I'll try to upload. I put the pry bar between the knuckle and the axle and it moved up/down. I surely hope it's not bearings. Christ I've only plowed twice lol. I'm well aware of the hardship and wear/tear on the truck but damn.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Didn't get a video wiggling the tire. Was short on time and wasn't thinking. Here's a crappy video I tried taking. Hard to hold phone and try to move parts.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Well I guess I was wrong all along. Now that I finally jacked up the truck and checked. It definitely leads me to believe this is definitely a wheel bearing issue. By reading things online too it's gotta be it. Not to say the BJs can't be bad too but the clunking and movement is a bearing issue. Tearing into it tomorrow night. Napa quoted me $274/ea for the hub assembly.


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

I can't tell anything by your video

If you jack up the front and put a pry bar under the tire. Move it up and down and watch the ball joints. If they move Thats your problem. If you can wiggle the tire in and out by hand wheel bearing. 

It could be both. You have to removing bearing to get to ball joints Thats why I said to check them


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

It may be both then. The tire moves which indicates bearings. But I can see up/down movement in the BJs when I use the pry bar against the knuckle.


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## djr623 (Oct 20, 2011)

The bearing I did on my brother's mega had a lot of play in it. It also made some terrible noises. When you shake the wheel look at the knuckle, if the knuckle is still but the wheel moves its a bad bearing. Also the play will be the same in all directions.

My brother's truck is on 37's so I expect it to go through the bearings. That's why I went with the moog from advanced, it had a three year warranty vs the one year standard


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Wheel moves but knuckle doesn't. But putting a pry bar under the tire, the knuckle moves up/down. So maybe the bearing and BJs are bad

My truck has been leveled on 35s for the last 35k miles. I'm at 55k miles now.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

I ordered the hub assemblies and all 4 BJs from napa. They'll be here today. I really can't be spending the money for everything but not a choice right now. I had my u joints replaced a few months back and they appear good still. I want to only tear this thing apart once, so I'll replace the hubs and BJs.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Ok once again I'm changed my mind.... In the ways of saving money. It's $300 cheaper to order the parts from rock auto, plus the hubs are timken. It'll take a few days to ship. Nothing is crucial and needs replaced now. It can wait a few days. 

From what I'm reading, everyone seems to be very pleased with rock auto... I've never used them yet.


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## KLC99 (Feb 3, 2003)

This goes against the standard rules for preventative maintenance but I'd just do the bearings. A small amount of movement in the lower joint is not too bad as long as you don't have death wobble. The geometry of the joints/knuckles is off on the aam axles and the first time you turn the wheels full lock you will start wearing the new joints out. 

If you had a shop replace the inner axle u-joints they may have used heat to pull the hubs which can lead to premature failure. Using the snap on tool or deep socket with short extension to press the old hubs out is quick and easy and you can have it back together in no time. Save the ball joints for next year...


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

I may do that. Once we tear into it well see if they really need replacing or not. But I want to have everything just in case. I have no DW and truck drives fine, as in no slop in the steering. Rock auto shipped the parts today. Calling for multiple big snows starting Monday so I'm a little nervous about time. I want to get this fixed before they break completely...


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## cl733 (Jul 12, 2013)

Here is something interesting , if a person was eating up wheel bearings this would be an option , kind of like the idea , just because,

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/spyntec-install-my-2006-t311059.html?&highlight=hub or http://tinyurl.com/cnvz7nt

http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/drivetrain-and-driveline/hub-conversions/

I imagine there are a few kits out there , anyone on here try this, or have any knowledge on a good simple kit


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Haven't seen it done on the 4th gens yet. I would love to do the conversion though. Free spin hubs have proven themselves for decades.


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## mega10cab (Dec 23, 2013)

Wow that was fast. Ordered the parts from rock auto at 530pm wed. They arrived today. My guy from the dodge dealer is bringing over his BJ press and were tackling this job Sunday. I'll let everyone know how it goes.


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