# How to tie down salter?



## 04f350powerv-xt (Nov 24, 2007)

I'm buying a new snowex 7500 salter, just wondering how you guys tie them down. My dealer is telling me that i have to bolt it to the bed of the truck, which I don't want to do. I'f I don't do it this way I have to sign a waiver that the dealer is not responsible. My box liner is completly sealed (it will fill up with a foot of water and and not drain) so no salt can get to my truck box to rust it out and I'd like to keep it that way. So I want to just strap it down with 4 straps, whats the best way to do this front to back or front to front? I figure the salter weighs about 600 lbs and 1.5 yards of salt will weigh about 3300 lbs for a combined weight of 3900 lbs, the straps i bought have a "safe working load" of 1333 lbs per srap for a total 5332 lbs. Which should work, right?


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

04f350powerv-xt;620498 said:


> I'm buying a new snowex 7500 salter, just wondering how you guys tie them down. My dealer is telling me that i have to bolt it to the bed of the truck, which I don't want to do. I'f I don't do it this way I have to sign a waiver that the dealer is not responsible. My box liner is completly sealed (it will fill up with a foot of water and and not drain) so no salt can get to my truck box to rust it out and I'd like to keep it that way. So I want to just strap it down with 4 straps, whats the best way to do this front to back or front to front? I figure the salter weighs about 600 lbs and 1.5 yards of salt will weigh about 3300 lbs for a combined weight of 3900 lbs, the straps i bought have a "safe working load" of 1333 lbs per srap for a total 5332 lbs. Which should work, right?


no not really 
, well depends

heres the thing , technicly , if your strapping it buy the cornors, if the load has a G force against it in one dirrection , only one , or possibly two of the straps will be holding back the load

i didnt use the bolt in brakets, and i was fine, but i had , Ryno linner, which made it had for anything to slide around, and plastic bed linner, lots of stuff slides....

i did mine front to back , then also side to side, I think i used 6 straps? it was a while ago


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## johndeereguy (Oct 19, 2006)

My dealer told me to just use ratchet straps, that he provided from snow ex, said there is no reason to bolt it in. Wokred just fine for me last year anyways


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

My boss just used 4 straps to hold his snowex in. It didn't move all winter.

Just get some straps that are good for 3000lbs+ each.


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## 04f350powerv-xt (Nov 24, 2007)

Elite you raise a good point with the g-force.

These straps are rated at 1333 ilbs safe work load with a breaking point of 4000 lbs each....


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

04f350powerv-xt;620622 said:


> Elite you raise a good point with the g-force.
> 
> These straps are rated at 1333 ilbs safe work load with a breaking point of 4000 lbs each....


i would just consider the manor and dirrection that the force or load could shift..... if it shifted foward and on an angle towards the divers side .. you would only have the strap at the passenger rear holding it ... one sinlg strap , holding 3500 lbs , plus the g force on it.

i think mine worked only becaue i used heavy straps, and mainly becasue the tention on the straps was dirrected in a doward manor, creating fiction against the ryno lineer, which prevented it from moving,... id be willing to bet that my ryno linner held more force, than the straps

so because your on a plastic, linner , you will not have that ablity on your side

i would highly consider , using chains, or a few more , heavy staps as well

and keep in mind that it can side any dirrection , i strapped on in , a few weeks back , just for transport purposes, i had to cross the straps, becasue there wasnt enought distance for them to work .... turns out , becasue i ran the front to the rear , and Vs versa, i now took all the side to side stabality out of it... and the unit moved 5 inches towards the drivers side , during a turn


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

This is how I do mine,...its actually the worst way but I don't have any of the steel tie downs on the inside that most newer trucks have, but anyways it worked just fine. Even with all 2 yards maybe more with the mountain, it was just fine. When it was empty and I am plowing, little bit of back and fourth but very minimal. Thinking of an I hook style threw the frame directly below each corner, so the straps are all pulling straight down. Elite is right on with the G force, I never even thought about that. When I loaded I would just give all 4 a couple cranks b/c they would loosen while loaded. Minor detail about straps is that you have to replace them every year b/c they all fricked up from the salt. Hope this book I just wrote helps make up your mind. BTW I aslo have rhino line that helps


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## ALLABOUTSNOW (Sep 26, 2008)

Just strap it in..... I wouldn't be so worried about the straps just about every truck has got them because we take them in and out so much... but if you want to get real techical I wouldn't be doing the math on the four straps as much as I would be on the 2 10mm bolts that hold the eyelet in your bed.


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

ALLABOUTSNOW;620658 said:


> but if you want to get real techical I wouldn't be doing the math on the four straps as much as I would be on the 2 10mm bolts that hold the eyelet in your bed.


Also Good Point


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## Sno4U (Dec 30, 2003)

Do the Sno-Ex salters also have the "lip" on the back of the salter that keeps it from sliding forward?
If they do I would just use the heavy straps U have and work off of the 4 corners (that your talking about).
If you have 3000 lb load of salt that REALLY wants to slide in your box, it will! Your gonna have to come up w/ alot more anchoring if you need to stp sideways motion. Have you thought about putting in blocks beside the salter to keep it centered between the wheel wells?
I have the Salt Dogg and what I do is I have sheet of plywood w/ rails (2x2 wood) nailed to the edges. I have the rails for a 5th wheel hitch in my bed and its pretty tough sliding the salter in over them, so I built this sheet of plywood as a deck over them. You get heavy straps w/ the slater when U buy it. I used those last year and had no problem. Plowed w/ the truck fully loaded quite often.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

ALLABOUTSNOW;620658 said:


> I wouldn't be doing the math on the four straps as much as I would be on the 2 10mm bolts that hold the eyelet in your bed.




i have had the bottom frame rail of v-boxes "slide" out from underneath of them before. WITH the thing tied down from all 4 corner's, so i bet the bolt's are more for holding the botom from shifting side to side instead of holding the spreader upright.

so with that being said. you might cosider taking a 2x4 or a 4x4 and cutting it to fit between youre salter frame and the bedside. and you'll be fine

i have broken all the dinkey lil straps that came with my v-box so now we use regular 2" wide ratchet straps.

here's how i tie mine down......if it helps?

EDIT: i should ad that i don't use chains....even on heavy equipment, the straps will streatch and absorb a little bounce here and there and still remain tight where a chain will either pull the hook off the salter or bed or just get loose and fall off. trust me.....if a ratchet strap is good enough to tie down a $100,000 dollar loader it's good enough for a salt spreader lol
PJ


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## mercer_me (Sep 13, 2008)

I would use rachet straps or chains held down with a chain binder.


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

green acres? what keeps your spreader from sliding forward or side to side?


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

elite1msmith;621703 said:


> green acres? what keeps your spreader from sliding forward or side to side?


junk in the bed and super glue 

i think those spreader's have a "lip" on the back don't they, green acres?

PJ


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

powerjoke;621706 said:


> junk in the bed and super glue
> 
> i think those spreader's have a "lip" on the back don't they, green acres?
> 
> PJ


better be a good lip or one nasty bump while slamming on the brakes that thing is going into the cab. You need to cross the straps. Front to the back and back to the front.

Do it before you kill someone else!


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## Grn Mtn (Sep 21, 2004)

from my understanding, DOT requires you to bolt through the frame rails from what i understand. unfortuneatly i can't remember where i saw/heard this but pretty sure its true.

now the reason you don't want to bolt it is because of rust, what the heck do you think salting does a buddy of mine had the exact same truck and he just used it as a daily driver, his had very little rust at all but mine was rusting everywhere, break lines/coolant lines/tranny lines.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

BSDeality;621779 said:


> Do it before you kill someone else!


WTF: are you talking about?.....who killed who?

it's not rocket science, and you don't have to be a liscensed overhead rigger to tie down a freakin salter 

the only way i would have a salter in a truck is if it were a steel salter and it were built as a integral part of a unitized frame to a 1 ton (or heavier) truck and bolted with no less than 37 1/2" grade8 bolt's with self locking nut's and chained with no less than four 3/8" grade70 approved tow chain with safety hook's tying in a diagonal manor in aposeing direction's, and apropriate binder's with the said binder's being secured with a permanant tie as too keep them from comeing off when chain is slackened by bounce of load while in travel..

freakin Geesh, is that good enough


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## snow7899 (Jan 22, 2005)

Just use common sense when securing it to the truck. I've seen a snow ex 8000 land in the middle of an intersection fully loaded. I like using the large ratchet straps. You can find a large assortment in a northern catalog. I think they are about twenty a piece.


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## Duncan90si (Feb 16, 2007)

I just strap mine down at the corners using 4 straps. I've never had a problem with it moving other than when the front left tie down "mount" pulled off the spreader thanks to a cracked weld. If you look you can see I have the front strap in this pic going up top on the spreader instead of through the mounting tab on the side.


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

powerjoke;622024 said:


> WTF: are you talking about?.....who killed who?
> 
> it's not rocket science, and you don't have to be a liscensed overhead rigger to tie down a freakin salter
> 
> ...


PJ, you really think green acres tie down methods are safe? I learned my lesson about strapping down equipment a couple years back when I had some mowers slide on a trailer after I was in an accident. having the straps both pulling forward isn't going to do **** in an nasty accident. what happens when the spreader jumps up? its going right into the cab.

my comment was basically saying, i don't care if you kill yourself by not strapping down equipment correctly, but don't kill some innocent bystander.


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

Read the installation instructions from the manufacturer. They all say to bolt the spreader down. The straps are just to stabilize the top, keeping it from rocking around.

Your taling about a lot of weight (way more then the 2-3000lbs static load) that is in force during a stop or turn. I have seen them slide forward with nough force to puch in the back of the cab and rip the chute right off. I saw one rip a bedside right off the truck as well.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

BSDeality;622228 said:


> PJ, you really think green acres tie down methods are safe? I learned my lesson about strapping down equipment a couple years back when I had some mowers slide on a trailer after I was in an accident. having the straps both pulling forward isn't going to do **** in an nasty accident. what happens when the spreader jumps up? its going right into the cab.
> 
> my comment was basically saying, i don't care if you kill yourself by not strapping down equipment correctly, but don't kill some innocent bystander.


first of all......how do you know that he dosent have a wooden or steel box or cage in the bed to keep it from comeing forward, and something to keep it from sliding sideway's? he obviously know's what he's doing....BTW: can you even bolt a salt-dogg?

so le'me get this right?......you have had equipment come loose on a trailer and pose a possible risk or threat to other's or youreself and YOURE the one that's giveing tiedown advice  thank's anyway's but i think i'll ask the walmart door greater next time i see her, how to tie a 30ton trackhoe down....She probably hasent had a mower bounce in oposeing trafic .

PJ


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## ALLABOUTSNOW (Sep 26, 2008)

Actually the correct way to tie down is to cross the straps so one pulls forward and the other pulls to the back. All the straps should have a angle on them to keep from a side to side movement.


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

powerjoke;622416 said:


> first of all......how do you know that he dosent have a wooden or steel box or cage in the bed to keep it from comeing forward, and something to keep it from sliding sideway's? he obviously know's what he's doing....BTW: can you even bolt a salt-dogg?
> 
> so le'me get this right?......you have had equipment come loose on a trailer and pose a possible risk or threat to other's or youreself and YOURE the one that's giveing tiedown advice  thank's anyway's but i think i'll ask the walmart door greater next time i see her, how to tie a 30ton trackhoe down....She probably hasent had a mower bounce in oposeing trafic .
> 
> PJ


PJ, come on. yes. I had equipment come slide on me. that is why I'm saying that his strapping methods ARE NOT SAFE. I learned from my mistakes. I'm sure you've never had a load loosen up in your up-teen years on the job either right?  My accident was 7 years ago. It could have been a lot worse. My mowers weighed 1000 and 400lbs and they slid forward on a trailer when I rear ended someone. They slid about 2' forward, in the process they bent the tongue of my trailer (4" square tube) into a banana. I made a compact car into a sub-compact car. Imagine the damage if it was 4000+ lbs sliding/bouncing.

The point is you don't know if he has a frame (wood? are you serious?) in the truck, I don't know either, but my assumption is he does not have anything besides those 4 straps pulling forward which WILL NOT DO ANYTHING for him in an accident.



> This is how I do mine,...*its actually the worst way* but I don't have any of the steel tie downs on the inside that most newer trucks have, but anyways it worked just fine. Even with all 2 yards maybe more with the mountain, it was just fine. *When it was empty and I am plowing, little bit of back and fourth but very minimal.* Thinking of an I hook style threw the frame directly below each corner, so the straps are all pulling straight down. Elite is right on with the G force, I never even thought about that. When I loaded *I would just give all 4 a couple cranks b/c they would loosen while loaded.* Minor detail about straps is that you have to replace them every year b/c they all fricked up from the salt. Hope this book I just wrote helps make up your mind. BTW I aslo have rhino line that helps


do you honestly think his methods are safe?


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

You got to kidding me.... It has a good lip that doesn't let it come fprward. I've been using this spreader this way for 2 years now with no problems. Not sure what kind of feather lite salt you use in CT, but 4,000lbs of Michigan salt don't slide around. I'm not saying this is the best way of doing it, but this the only way you can with a Salt Dogg, you must have one and know that with as much knowledge as your putting out there. Also when you drop 2 tons of salt in, it loosens the straps so you have to give a couple extra cranks. As far as it being empty and plowing with jumping around a little being a big deal is beyond me. Come on by one day and show me were MY salter can bolt down Mr. know it all. Glad there is people like PJ around here not just a bunch of thread jackin know it alls that are still mad about an accident they had 7 years ago. Learn how to drive and you'll have nothing to worry about.


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

BSDeality;621779 said:


> better be a good lip or one *nasty bump* while slamming on the brakes that thing is going into the cab.


Yet again, we are talking 2 tons. When you say nasty bump do mean 100 mph over train tracks?


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## ServiceOnSite (Nov 23, 2006)

GreenAcresFert;623199 said:


> Yet again, we are talking 2 tons. When you say nasty bump do mean 100 mph over train tracks?


glad to see im not the only one doing this...............................................


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

that is a bad tie down. 2 tons salt + spreader= 5000#? can we say overloaded? yes it costs money and time to do things right which may be why i'm always more expensive than "A guy with a plowtruck" A 4 g accident means 20000# of force enough to rip that lip off and pop your 4000# straps sending that unit thru your box and over the cab, killing you or someone else. there is nothing holding that thing down or back. suck it up bolt it down. whats it take to take off 4 bolts 4 minutes? power joke do the same math for a 15000# piece of equipment. there isnt a stap rated for that. 

Everyone else please dont use common sense when tieing down equipment. figure out your capacities and use rated tie downs per dot rules.


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

i'm done arguing, feel like i'm teaching physics to a bunch of rocks here. hopefully you don't kill anyone in your methods.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

snowman55;623699 said:


> whats it take to take off 4 bolts 4 minutes? \
> 
> uh''''you do realize there is NO freakin bolt holes in a saltdogg right
> 
> ...


BSDeality: i think i figured out what the "BS" in youre name stand's for! please don't lecture me or feel like you have to "teach physics" to me or anyone else either.......don't forget YOU are the one that has had an insucure load damage equipment!

the 2" straps i use have a 10,000lb breaking strength and a 3,300lb working load......a 3/8 chain only has a 4,500 lb working load, and in MO you have to have twice the breaking strength of the weight of the load youre carrying and one tiedown every at least every 10 feet .....so he would technicaly be fine with one strap throwed over the top 

BTW: i am encloseing a picture of a couple of people i met the other day.......notice what is holding that lil' hoe to the trailer???????


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

ALLABOUTSNOW;622434 said:


> Actually the correct way to tie down is to cross the straps so one pulls forward and the other pulls to the back. All the straps should have a angle on them to keep from a side to side movement.


i hate to tell you , but , thats how i tied my empty one down , just for transporting ....

and by crossing the strapps, you dont have enough "angle" pulling downward, or more importantly side to side..... this is because for example the distance between the side of your spreader, and the side of your bed might be 16 inches....so if you stap it dirrectly with the staps coming outward on an angle, the spreader is held in , and has side to side stablitiy. the staps will stretch, but because its only 16 inchs the effect is minimized

but if you cross them , running one front to back , or side to side, there is less angle, and there is also more distance that can be stretched.

I only say this after mine slide over a few inches, completely empty ,

you are correct about, one stap pulling forward ,and one backward


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

ok im no salt dog expect...but

No plasitc, or even small steel "lip" is gonna hold your load in an accident. ESPECIALLY IN a plastic bed linner. If you think its gonna hold it down just fine.... im willing to bet you also think its ok to play bumber cars too, becasue your plastic and stell bumpers, will not bend - right?

2nd? multiple staps, = yes some of the weight can be redirected to other staps,..but like i said. IF your only using 4 total , and one at each corner..... if you load sifts on an Angle .... then only 1 ONE single stap will be holding the entire load..... so your "mulitple" strap theory only works, in certain conditions. understand that..... g force has a small factor as well

"plowing is often refured to as a controlled crash , every 2 mins, for 8 hours straight" sometimes worst than that

If you rear end some one, after your head hits the air bag, do you really want the spreader coming forward to hit you? its your life, tie it how ever you want-

How about liablity - the manufacture recommends to tie it a certain way , and you dont? or bolt it? theres a lawsuit

crumple zones.... you put that nice shiney 800 peace of steel on the font of your truck..... so now your bumpers MIGHT not react normally to an impact.... if your front end doesnt "give way" and crumple.... then MORE force will be applied against you and your spreader..... just another reason

I say this is just like the window tinting, and door magents...... ARE YOU A PROFESSIONAL, do you want to grow your business, ARE YOU TRULY IN BUSINESS to make it? If its a work truck, then just drill the holes already. If your not in a work truck , then go back to a day job. Did they have to alter your truck in some way to put the plow on it? so whats the difference here?

Id bet even if you didnt bolt it as dirrected, at least if you put in HEAVY DUTY tie down points,,... $20 dollars says you will use them over and over for various applications


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## snowandgo (Oct 26, 2008)

Powerjoke, They let you hold down a 7,500# (or heavier) machine with 6,666# of straps?

A Grade 70 3/8" TRANSPORT chain has a 6,600# Working load limit. not 4,500#.

DOT says a minimum of TWO tiedowns on any load, so one 2" strap over the top would not be legal.


To all physics guys,

If you have four straps pulling in four directions, you cannot have the load held by just one strap, although one would hold MOST of the force at certain angles of force (and one NONE). The holding strength of any tie-down (strap, chain, rope) is reduced exponentially, the greater the angle to the direction of force. This is where you could use the sine and cosine function of your calculator if you hadn't slept through math class.  The point is, angling your straps down to hold the spreader down reduces the forward-back or side-to-side strength of the strap.


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

snowandgo;624238 said:


> Powerjoke, They let you hold down a 7,500# (or heavier) machine with 6,666# of straps?
> 
> A Grade 70 3/8" TRANSPORT chain has a 6,600# Working load limit. not 4,500#.
> 
> ...


like i said , i think angleing the straps down is to keep your spreader down , and creates friction agains the surface, which proablly holds more force than you think -


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## Flipper (Nov 1, 2001)

I wish I had a picture. I repaired a few years ago a Swenson 4 yard box that was on a 550 flatbed. Secured with CHAINS / Binders on the four corners going down to the bedsides. 

IT was loaded full and in a hard, but not emergency stop it still was able to slide (all that weight) forward, ripping the angle iron lip and the whole chute off and destroying the front bulkhead of the flatbed. The chains were still attached. Guys had to hand shovel the load out, pull the spreader off the have the bulkhead fixed. I had to basically rebuild the mounting point of the chute to the spreader, including a new shaft etc. 

This could have been a lot worse, if it had rolled or something. The fact that it was loaded did not keep it from sliding, in fact it made the damage worse as there was more mass moving. 

Today that spreader is run with 4 grade 8 3/4" bolts and the chains and even that is stressful. Every year when the bolts come out in the spring they are somewhat bent.

No holes on the saltdogg??? Drill some, make some clips that can then be bolted down. I use straps to hold stuff to trailers all the time, I know what they are rated for. The thing is that the tiedowns in pickups aren't rated for that. The strap will pull that tiedown right out of the bed corner.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

snowandgo;624238 said:


> Powerjoke, They let you hold down a 7,500# (or heavier) machine with 6,666# of straps?
> 
> yup 953's D5's etc, if it's 40,000lb or heavier we'll always use at about 4 chain's but there will normaly be at least two strap's on the machine, just for extra security. something else that is a DOT thing, if a chain doesnt have a boomer on it, it is not cosidered a proper tiedown, so just throwing a chain over the back axle and useing one boom on the front to tighten the both is NOT acceptable
> 
> ...


so youre saying that a 10,000lb rated chain is stronger if it's only 1 foot long instead of 30feet long ?.... i think you mean force?



Flipper;624339 said:


> I wish I had a picture. I repaired a few years ago a Swenson 4 yard box that was on a 550 flatbed. Secured with CHAINS / Binders on the four corners going down to the bedsides.
> 
> i do too.......what do you mean a flatbed with bedsides?
> 
> ...


there is thousand's of these unit's out there....heck probably on PS alone. and i have not herd of anyone haveing problem's.....in fact "greenacres" has had this rig for 2 year's now and not had problem's


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

Man I wish it still looked this nice, that exhaust was on there when I got the truck and I hated it, didn't take long to get rid of them, gotta love salt. By the way, I will be putting in some I hooks through the frame rails and strapping down to those as well as the existing straps, hopefully that makes everybody happy. Here is the lip PJ and I have been talking about.


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

I want to make sure you guys think is "safe" were I mounted my control box. I haven't pinched or lost a finger yet reaching for it but you guys come up with some pretty extreme scenarios.


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## powerjoke (Nov 13, 2004)

GreenAcresFert;624587 said:


> I want to make sure you guys think is "safe" were I mounted my control box. I haven't pinched or lost a finger yet reaching for it but you guys come up with some pretty extreme scenarios.


lmao.....i'm sure they'll find something wrong with it .....lol

i'll give it a shot,.... the spreder controll is ok but the plow controll may cause you to get youre ass kicked, or worse. here's why

i run the plow stick with 2 finger's....witch may not cause a problem normally but if yo uhad a cut or sore on youre 3rd finger, it may cause the operator to extend the middle finger in a F-U motion....normally it may not be that big of a deal but, with youre middle finger extended and being in plane view from the window, the guy next to you at the stoplight may see it and think it's directed toward's him.....and he may get upset or worse do i have the scenario about right BS, flipper,etc.

pj


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

ouch powerjoke.
1) I don't have a salt dogg but "flipper" stated that manufacture instructions say bolt it down, you should bolt it to the frame. 
2) I did not say straps are not dot. a 4 inch strap to a semi bed frame is rated higher than anything I have heard mentioned here. also have never seen one on a 5000# piece of equipment, there always chained in MN. I said don't use common sense. know your laws and capacities and don't take the easy way out. a 2000# strap is not enough for a 2000# load.
3) mndot specs call for grade 70 chains on 4 corners on bobcats. you would be red flagged and fined for that set up in Minnesota, again Know the laws for your state. 
4) I see way to many guys not securing there load, overloaded, no dot # , no health cards, and it gives us all a bad image. how much do you spend on time and $ to operate your equipment safely and legally? Its a cost of responsible business


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## elite1msmith (Sep 10, 2007)

GreenAcresFert;624587 said:


> I want to make sure you guys think is "safe" were I mounted my control box. I haven't pinched or lost a finger yet reaching for it but you guys come up with some pretty extreme scenarios.


lol, your control mount looks good to me.....

but i wouldnt call being in an accident "extreme" by any means... id call it more common than you think-


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## Superior L & L (Oct 6, 2006)

GreenAcresFert;624587 said:


> I want to make sure you guys think is "safe" were I mounted my control box. I haven't pinched or lost a finger yet reaching for it but you guys come up with some pretty extreme scenarios.


I hope the screws that are holding that controller in are grade 8 screws and i hope they are in at a angle so if your in a accident it will stay put


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## GreenAcresFert (Sep 28, 2007)

Superior L & L;625131 said:


> I hope the screws that are holding that controller in are grade 8 screws and i hope they are in at a angle so if your in a accident it will stay put


They are grade 8 zip ties, atleast thats what the salesman said. No angle butI'm hopng for the best.


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