# Meyer Angle Problems



## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I bought a used 7 1/2' Meyer, E-47 set-up. The hoses/fittings needed to be replaced so I replaced all of them. The first time I hooked everything up I raised/lowered with no problem. I angled left, then angled right and when I went to angle back left, nothing happened. I've tried a few things: Fluid level is good, I can hear the pump strain when I go L/R on the switch. I have a magnetic pull with a screwdriver on the solenoid. It sounds like it wants to angle, but does nothing. Up & Down works fine. Do I have air in the cylinders? I bled the lines after it stopped working. Any thoughts?


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## poncho62 (Jan 23, 2004)

*Check your "B" and "C" valves.........they are under those coils...could be a bad "O" ring, or they could be sticking.*


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

Are those pretty easy to remove?


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## poncho62 (Jan 23, 2004)

*Once you take the electric coil off, it unscrews out of the pump*


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

More than likely one of your quick couplers are bad. On a Meyer pump, as long as you have the hoses connected correctly the default position is to angle left when theirs a coil or valve problem.In other words, if you try and raise the blade but it goes left instead,then the B coil/valve isn't working. If you try to go right and instead it goes left, then the C valve/coil isn't working.The only things that can keep it from going left is either your quick couplers are defective or you have the hoses connected backward's AND the C valve/coil isn't working.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

Thanks for the input. I'll try all the suggestions. It's just weird that it angled both ways when I first hooked everything up. Both couplers are new, do you think both can be bad?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

I've taken brand new couplers out of the box that didn't work so just because their new won't necessary mean that their not defective. I doubt that both of your's are bad but if either one fail's it wont angle.Sometime's disconnecting and reconnecting them a few time's will make them work again....but usually it's only temporary.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

As it stands now, I have the hose out of the driver side ram going to the pump block fitting towards the passenger side. Is that correct?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Daddy Wags;375713 said:


> As it stands now, I have the hose out of the driver side ram going to the pump block fitting towards the passenger side. Is that correct?


Yep,as long as the pump is mounted on the truck in the correct position (with the fittings at the rear of the pump) your connections are correct.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

It's hooked up correct. I'll try new couplers. What do you use on the threads? Do the angle rams bleed the air themselves, or does it have to be done manually? Thanks for your help!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

I like to use Teflon tap on them BUT when you wrap the tape around the thread's,start the tape on the 2nd or 3rd thread from the end of the fitting. If you start it on the first thread you risk getting tape inside the coupler, and it can plug the connector.(Maybe thats what happened the first time?). The angle cylinders will bleed themselves usually, but some can be stubborn and you have to manually bleed them at the hose connections.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I was told by a dealer to use pipe thread compound, so that's what I used originally. I don't need to replace the connector that goes in the coupler, do I?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Generally I don't use the liquid thread compounds.Too easy to plug stuff up with it.I feel the tape gives you more control of where your placing it. As to the coupler, yes you want to change BOTH sides of the coupler as either side could be defective.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

Well, I replaced both couplers with no luck. I'm at a loss. I hate to take it to someone to fix, but I think I'm out of options.


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## poncho62 (Jan 23, 2004)

*Did you pull the "B" and "C" valves out and look at them?*


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

No I didn't. I will. What am I looking for?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

What position is the plow stuck in right now? Is it all the way to the left?


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

It's not stuck in any position. I've put a bolt through the sector to keep in one position. With the bolt out, I can manually push the plow either way.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Pull the C valve out of the angle block like poncho said (the one with the green wire) and look very closely at the O-rings around the valve.Check them for any kind of damage (cut or torn). Check the screens on the outside of the valve for debris also (like liquid thread sealant ) Then, take a nail or a small screwdriver and push in on the bottom of the valve, feeling to see if the spool inside the valve will move freely.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I pulled the C Valve out and the O-rings look ok except the one closest to the thread, the edge toward the threads is freyed slightly. I'm not sure if it's enough to matter. I can push the valve in also. It has some tension when I push, but comes right back when I release. There must be a spring inside the valve. Do they sell O-ring kits for the valve? What do you think I should do?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yes, you can buy the O-ring kit for just the C valve. Change the O-rings and reinstall the valve as it sounds like it's ok since you can push in on it and it will spring back to the closed position.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

My C Valve doesn't have any screens on it. Is it supposed to?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yes, it should.The screens are the last line of defense at keeping debris out of the pump.Here's what they should look like...


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

Mine looked exactly like that minus the 3 screens. Do I need a new valve?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Since yours doesn't have the screen's, I think I'd go ahead and replace it.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I'll replace it and see if anything happens.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I put the new C Valve in with no luck. I also get a magnetic pull when I put a screwdriver on the coil as the switch is pushed. I'm confused.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Ok, I just want to double verify here....when you replaced the quick coupler's (even the second time) did you replace all four halves of them or just the two halve's on the hoses? Even if the C valve dosen't open, the plow should still angle to the left as it doesn't use any of the valves to angle left. The only other thing that could cause it not to angle left (or right for that matter) is the pilot check valve.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I did replace all four. Where is the Pilot Check Valve?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Here's a pic of the check valve assembly. The valve piston itself is #80 in the pic. Remove the plug #81 and pull it out and also pull the spring and ball assembly #76 from the bottom side of the block too. Clean everything up and check the piston for scratches or scoring which will cause it to jam in it's bore,thus not allowing the plow to angle. Reinstall the piston and the top plug first, then reinstall the lower ball/spring/plug assembly.


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## sefh (Oct 18, 2005)

I would also take the hoses off and straighten the plow. After it is straight then try to angle it. You might have over extended the ram.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

sefh;380903 said:


> I would also take the hoses off and straighten the plow. After it is straight then try to angle it. You might have over extended the ram.


I was thinking the same thing at one point, until he said he could manually angle the blade by hand and it wasn't stuck in any one position. I still believe it's a hydrolic problem.


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## SkykingHD (Jan 31, 2002)

*mechanical problem?*

Is the sector very far away from the a frame? Will the plow angle by hand? Try moving plow by hand to straight position then move a little left and a little right. Not to the stop. If it moves freely left and right but sticks at the full left or full right position it is a elongated hole in the A frame.

BTW what part of NE Ohio U in? Akron here.

Dave


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I'll take the check valve apart, but first I'd like to mention that there is some distance with the A-Frame & Sector. The Sector is almost out of the slot in the A-Frame. I have some play where the King Bolt is. I've tried pushing back on the blade and moving it around while someone worked the angle switch. How easy is the blade supposed to move back and forth by hand? I'm pretty sure the A-Frame is elongated. There's quite a bit of play. I'm in the Cleveland area. Let me know what you think.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If you can angle it by hand then the pump should have MORE than enough pressure to move the blade if you start in the STRAIGHT position. Yes, if the pivot bolt/hole is worn severely it can cause the blade to get stuck to the full, angle left or right position. That's why I asked you in a previous reply if the blade was stuck to the left or right.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

What do you think, pull the check valve?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yes, I'd still check the pilot check valve, you might want to just go ahead and pull/clean/inspect the crossover relief valve too.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

Thanks! Is that something I can do without any parts (o-rings,seals)?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Since your going to be disassembling these components, i'd definitely recommend changing the O-rings while you have it apart.You can get the seal kit from CPW and their relatively inexpensive.


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## Daddy Wags (Feb 3, 2007)

I need some help, what is CPW?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

CPW= Central Parts Warehouse. Their link is at the top of the page. Very good people to deal with.


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## weldit (Mar 3, 2007)

*get the book*

I had the same problem and the c valve was stuck, I just cleaned it and everything was cool, Sounds like you have different problems. Biggest help I had was downloading the service manual from the meyer website. It was Free and I put it in a binder so I could take it with me. Good pictures and diagrams. Good luck. :waving:


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