# jd 4720 for plowing small resis?



## Kirby ent (Aug 24, 2005)

I read allot of negative things about the compact hydros.

The 4720 has 60 HP and almost 5000 lbs. If you can add 2500 pounds with blade and ballast the unit should push ok I think?
I really like how compact they are compared to the 5000 series.
I would like to put a horst snowwing 7-12 on it.

I have zero experience with tractors so maybe someone can help me out with experience.


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## DeVries (Nov 27, 2007)

I bought a 4720 as well this spring to plow out driveways at condo complexes. I put a 8 foot blade on the front, filled the tires, and added some weight on the 3 point hitch. 

I guess I'm in the same boat as you I can't see why they won't push. Are you putting your blade on the loader or mounting it to the frame? Mine is on the loader, but it seems a little weak, I am gonna talk to the dealer because it seems that the loader is not fastened to the tractor properly as there is a lot of play in the loader arms.

Hopefully someone will chime in and enlighten us.


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## johndeereguy (Oct 19, 2006)

I used a 4720 for years to plow a huge (15 acre) truck stop. I used the loader and bucket from deere and put a 8 ft. Landpride blade on the back. Used ag tired with weight on the back. It worked just fine. It is very quick and mobile. Those are very nice tractors to run.


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## johndeereguy (Oct 19, 2006)

There are pics on here of my setup as well


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

johndeereguy;816923 said:


> I used a 4720 for years to plow a huge (15 acre) truck stop. I used the loader and bucket from deere and put a 8 ft. Landpride blade on the back. Used ag tired with weight on the back. It worked just fine. It is very quick and mobile. Those are very nice tractors to run.


How long does it take to plow 15 acres with a 8' rear blade? 15 hours


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## 06HD BOSS (Nov 28, 2005)

If youre doing small residentials, you should have no problems. We've got a 4310 setup with a custom mount front blade & pull box on the 3pt hitch. It only comes out for larger storms and it couldnt make our lives easier. Machine has no problem moving heavy snow.


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## johndeereguy (Oct 19, 2006)

I could do it in less if there was not hundreds of trucks in and out, and we start as soon as the snow does. If I was to do it start to finish one time, without trucks nbothering me to much I could do it in 10, but now I use a JD 5525 with a 9 ft. blade


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

Kirby ent;816873 said:


> I read allot of negative things about the compact hydros.
> 
> The 4720 has 60 HP and almost 5000 lbs. If you can add 2500 pounds with blade and ballast the unit should push ok I think?
> I really like how compact they are compared to the 5000 series.
> ...


I think Peterbilt has that same tractor.

You should ask him.


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## Peterbilt (Apr 28, 2007)

I have a 4520. Its not a Horsepower issue with these smaller tractors, its thier weight. I have mine set up with R4 tires, 2 wheel weights on each side, an 8ft Landpride rear blade, and an assortment of buckets and boxes for the front. 

I have found that I will spin out way before I loose any power. 

I ran the tractor with one of my 10ft arctics last season a couple times. It handled it fine as far as pushing goes, but the loader arms are a bit weak (400CX) for any real heavy pushing or lifting. They will twist and flex while you lift the box. I was also affraid that the front axle was under to much weight while driving it from site to site. 

This season I am going to set it up a bit different than the last 2 seasons. 

1, I am going to put fluid in the rear tires
2, I am going to have a large weight box built for the 3pt and not run a rear blade anymore.

I was amased at how this tractor handled the arctic. I ran it in a 5" fluff snow last January and after running this machine in every snow the previous season I was just shocked at how much snow I could actually push. With the Arctic I could run in C range the whole time, with a bucket or standard styled box I was only able to run in B. The slower you go, the more likely a spin out.

The down side to these tractors is lifting and crowding ability. It seems like when you hit the pile to push up, you always have to back up a bit while lifting, then roll foward again. I dont know if its just the bigger buckets or what, but it get annoying sometimes. The Deere loader is also very weak (400CX). It will twist and flex quite a bit. The loader also seems to bounce around when you drive it anywhere and it will twist to the right everytime we lift anything with it. Its been to my Deere dealer many times because of this. Never been any fix for it I might add. I also dont like the learning curve. I grew up plowing with tractors set up like mine. But not everyone has. So training someone how to operate the machine while watching the bucket, the rear blade, and the lot takes some time to teach. Only my top guys will get to run the tractors.

On the plus side. The cabs are super nice, they go down the road pretty quick, you can plow ANY sized lot with them, They aren't to bad on fuel and they are easy to store in a small area. 

IMO that Horst is a nice plow, but I think it migh be to heavy for the front axle of the 4000 series. I would look at a smaller 5003 series. They are priced about the same and have a shuttle shift in them as well. I Have a 5083E on order for this season just for the down sided reasons that I had with the 4520 last season. If you are set on the horst, I would look into not using the Deere loader, get a horst mount made up for it. That Horst might snap or tweek the Deere loader arms.

J.


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## LoneCowboy (Jan 2, 2007)

the problem with compact tractors isn't really the loader (although ag tractor loader arms are weak, and the compacts are the weakest/smallest)
or even the weight. (load your rear tires)

the real problem with compacts is that they cost too much to run.

Over the last 2 years, I've have those 3 tractors below. The TC45 is the 45 hp cab tractor from NH. Compact. (6' wide, weighs about 5500lbs with loader and rear tires loaded). Probably similar to what you are considering. The L185 has had pretty much zero work on it (few hours) so you can ignore it. The TN75 is a utility, which is a bigger tractor (next step up from compacts, I believe in JD it's the 5000 series, but I don't understand the JD nomenclature). 

The TC45 will lift 1650lbs (exactly), the TN75 will lift well over 2500lbs. But the TC is a hydrostat, it's very fast to do loader work and it has a fast loader. 

TC45 engine oil interval: 150 hours
TN75 engine oil interval: 300 hours.

TC45 hydraulic oil interval: 300 hours
TN75 hydraulic oil interval: 1200 hours.

etc, etc, etc,

I just ran my numbers. These are the real numbers from my business. Some is snow removal, most isn't. There are a few costs in there for the L185, and a few for the previous MF I had, but basically inconsequential.
Both the TC and the TN have 600+ hours on them over the last 2 years. (within 50 hours, close enough).

TC: maintenance and parts: 65% of my total tractor maintenance
TN: maintenance and parts: 30% of my total tractor maintenance.

Both tractors have been relatively trouble free, this is mostly maintenance and some stuff breaking (on both, so it's still a fair comparison). Does not include tires. (which the TC breaks way more of than the TN, for reasons unknown).

WAY more expensive per hour to run a compact tractor than a utility. Even after the 20% higher initial cost of the utility is considered. For normal homeowners, this isn't a problem, they don't put any hours on. For commercial it's a problem. In some situations (like mine), you simply need the small size to make it work and you just eat the maintenance. But for driveways, stepping up one size to a utility will lower your overall operating costs. 


The TN is 7' wide BTW, but you won't find hydrostat at the utility tractor level. (although you will find powershuttles (like a backhoe).

HTH


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## Kirby ent (Aug 24, 2005)

I will be going with the carrier from horst no matter if I go with JD4720 or 5093E.
I really want to go with the compact but for size only. The lower end 5000 series tractors are basically the same price.
Peterbilt: How much does the 10 foot pusher weigh? The Horst blade with carrier is going to be around 1800 lbs. My concern is how will the JD4720 handle the blade with the small front end and such small wheels?

The JD 4720 with 1800 lbs on the front and 1000 lbs of balllast on the wheels and 3 point brings total weight to 7150lbs. Seems like it would do?
Just wish JD offered bigger tires.
Thanks for the help guys.


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## Peterbilt (Apr 28, 2007)

The Artic weighs about the same. But on the deere loader arms you can just watch the box bounce, and it worries me about the weight on the axle.

If you do it. Get R4 industrial tires. They are skidloader tires. They are quite a bit tougher than a standard tire. 

J.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

LoneCowboy;818007 said:


> the problem with compact tractors isn't really the loader (although ag tractor loader arms are weak, and the compacts are the weakest/smallest)
> or even the weight. (load your rear tires)
> 
> the real problem with compacts is that they cost too much to run.
> ...


Never really cared about the price of oil and filters, always thought they were cheap insurance. We change all of our engine oil at 150 hours or less and Deere reccomends min 300. Can't comment on a 4720 because I have never ran one.


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## LoneCowboy (Jan 2, 2007)

just a FYI because I realize you aren't seeing that and think it's $100 worth of oil and filters.

My total tractor maintenance over the last 2 years was $12,000.

65% of that went to the compact tractor. 

That's about 600 hours worth of use. 

And doesn't include tires or registration. 

Figure $30/hour to run a tractor as a good round number. But it's the same number as you go to bigger tractors (maintenance goes down, initial price goes up), although the bigger tractors are quite a bit more productive so they run less time to do the same job.


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## LoneCowboy (Jan 2, 2007)

Kirby ent;818115 said:


> I will be going with the carrier from horst no matter if I go with JD4720 or 5093E.
> I really want to go with the compact but for size only. The lower end 5000 series tractors are basically the same price.
> Peterbilt: How much does the 10 foot pusher weigh? The Horst blade with carrier is going to be around 1800 lbs. My concern is how will the JD4720 handle the blade with the small front end and such small wheels?
> s.


I doubt the 4720 is going to handle 1800lbs on the front end. My neighbor has the 55hp JD compact (I dunno the model number, 4xxx) and it lifts less than my 45hp NH. It can lift, exactly 1500lbs of fertilizer. (the NH TC45 will lift 1650)

So, whichever, it will be right on the limit if it's 1800lbs. Ag tractor loaders are weak. They aren't really designed to dig, they are designed to move mulch/manure/bedding and loose materials. (think farmer).

it's not the wheels/tires that break from overloading the front end, it's the axle/transaxle that breaks. (big bucks)

We use our compact for snow removal with a 6' high volume 2/3yard bucket and it works great. We could probably go a little bigger, but not much IMO. a 6' or 7' plow would be perfect. a 10' pusher seems ridiculous. I've got an 8' plow with wings on the TN (so figure 9.5' wide) and sometimes it gives it all it can handle. (and I wish I had bought a box for the TN ). But a 10' box on the TN would be right at the upper limit for it I think and the TN is a much bigger tractor than the 4720 you are looking at.


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## LoneCowboy (Jan 2, 2007)

My neighbor has a 4520 (3 years old or so?) with a 400X loader (he's out playing today, I checked

I can guarantee you it will only lift 1500lbs of fertilizer.


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## LoneCowboy (Jan 2, 2007)

My neighbor has a 4520 (3 years old or so?) with a 400X loader (he's out playing today, I checked

I can guarantee you it will only lift 1500lbs of fertilizer.

so hanging 1800lbs off that would be all it could handle.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

LoneCowboy;818270 said:


> just a FYI because I realize you aren't seeing that and think it's $100 worth of oil and filters.
> 
> My total tractor maintenance over the last 2 years was $12,000.
> 
> ...


Wow, my total maintenance costs for 10 tractors, a skid and a combine will be lucky to be that much/year. Just an FYI.


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## leon (Nov 18, 2008)

*tractor plows etc.*

Is a Degelman ice breaker something you could consider? fThe unit has folding wings and lower weight as is described on their web page.

:waving:


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

LoneCowboy;818272 said:


> I doubt the 4720 is going to handle 1800lbs on the front end. My neighbor has the 55hp JD compact (I dunno the model number, 4xxx) and it lifts less than my 45hp NH. It can lift, exactly 1500lbs of fertilizer. (the NH TC45 will lift 1650).


If I understand correctly, He is talking about putting it on a harness like JD has on his tractors, which is a completely different animal than a loader.



JD Dave;818494 said:


> Wow, my total maintenance costs for 10 tractors, a skid and a combine will be lucky to be that much/year. Just an FYI.


I was going to say the same thing.


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## LoneCowboy (Jan 2, 2007)

cretebaby;818651 said:


> If I understand correctly, He is talking about putting it on a harness like JD has on his tractors, which is a completely different animal than a loader.


oh yeah, underframe attached like a dozer blade would be different. On the loader NFW



> I was going to say the same thing.


Honestly, i was going to let this slide but there's simply no way. I think JDDave need to double check his numbers or we're comparing two different things. I'm sure mine are high because of our summer work, but $1000/tractor simply doesn't pass the sniff test. My numbers are all inclusive. That's everything spent on those tractors except fuel and tires over the last two years.

That's 12 tractors, at say 500 hours per year? (I dunno, you tell me).

that's 3 engine oil changes per year (150 hours each). At $100 each, that's $300

Two or three engine air filters at $40./each is another $120

two or three cab air filters at $30/each is another $90

hydraulic filter at 300 hours (minimum) is another $100

skids want hydraulic oil changed at 300 hours, dunno about the size of your tractors, but compacts want about 300 hours, utilities want about 1200 hours, let's average it to every other one needs one this year. That's $300/each or $150 (since we're doing half)

we're at $760/tractor in regular maintenance alone.

And that's for nothing going wrong or breaking.

Which *NEVER *happens.

figure in grease, radiator fluid, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid for ones that leak down, fittings, parts, batteries, etc for a couple more bucks per tractor

My SS broke a pressure sending unit the other day and started leaving a trail. $100 for the part, $50 to ship it overnight. $300 labor to find it, remove it and reinstall it.. That's a nothing, things like that happen all the time.

My TN broke it's seat frame. (yes, really, I'm not happy). Part is "not available", you have to buy the entire seat. $450 for the part plus shipping plus about 2 hours labor at $82/hour to remove and install the new one.

I simply don't buy that in 500 odd hours you only have $300 worth of parts and labor go wrong per tractor in addition to regular maintenance.

Please enlighten me.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Honestly, i was going to let this slide but there's simply no way. I think JDDave need to double check his numbers or we're comparing two different things. I'm sure mine are high because of our summer work, but $1000/tractor simply doesn't pass the sniff test. My numbers are all inclusive. That's everything spent on those tractors except fuel and tires over the last two years. 
My numbers are fine, maybe you need to reconsider what equipment your running and how your running it.
That's 12 tractors, at say 500 hours per year? (I dunno, you tell me).
300 or a little better avg, some get 400 some get none.
that's 3 engine oil changes per year (150 hours each). At $100 each, that's $300
2 oil changes
Two or three engine air filters at $40./each is another $120
I have 6 year old tractors with original air filter, we clean them.
two or three cab air filters at $30/each is another $90
I've never bought a cab filter in my life, we clean them
hydraulic filter at 300 hours (minimum) is another $100
We change hydro's every fall, along with fuel filters in everything we own
skids want hydraulic oil changed at 300 hours, dunno about the size of your tractors, but compacts want about 300 hours, utilities want about 1200 hours, let's average it to every other one needs one this year. That's $300/each or $150 (since we're doing half)
Skid is only used for snow, maitenance is done every fall
we're at $760/tractor in regular maintenance alone.
The skid is only used for snow so we serviice it once /year

And that's for nothing going wrong or breaking.
We break very little and we do 95% of all our own repairs. Most of the time we have 1 tractor under warranty and that seems to be the one that breaks alot.
Which NEVER happens.

figure in grease, radiator fluid, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid for ones that leak down, fittings, parts, batteries, etc for a couple more bucks per tractor
$2/tractor not even close, my 6 year old tractors all have original batteries. Also my tractor don't use brake fluid and a case of Antifreeze goes a long way.
My SS broke a pressure sending unit the other day and started leaving a trail. $100 for the part, $50 to ship it overnight. $300 labor to find it, remove it and reinstall it.. That's a nothing, things like that happen all the time.
Do they, hmmmm
My TN broke it's seat frame. (yes, really, I'm not happy). Part is "not available", you have to buy the entire seat. $450 for the part plus shipping plus about 2 hours labor at $82/hour to remove and install the new one. 
Never broke a seat before, sorry
I simply don't buy that in 500 odd hours you only have $300 worth of parts and labor go wrong per tractor in addition to regular maintenance.
It is what it is
Please enlighten me. 
I'm anal about maintenance and the appearance of all my equipment, everything is serviced above and beyond what an average person does. Some people have bought used stuff from me and have seen my equipment maybe they'll chime in. We never had this good luck with red equipment, remember I was all red 7 years ago.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

I have to agree with Dave 100%... But I think your number have alot to do with the summer work your are doing with your equipment.. Air / cab filters 3 times / year...  Even on my mowers I only change then once per year... Some stuff seems a little overkill to me... Sure stupid stuff does break every now and then but man that seems like alot of money spent on repairs if you ask me... I hope your not the one who's behind the wheel if your breaking that much stuff...

I've seen Daves equipment and he does take its appearace seriously... You should see his salt trucks... Even they look almost brand new...


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## Kirby ent (Aug 24, 2005)

hey boys lets get back on track lol

I am not using a loader. I am using the mount that comes with the Horst blade. So can people please comment where this applies. I know the 400 loader from JD doesn't have a chance.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Kirby ent;818889 said:


> hey boys lets get back on track lol
> 
> I am not using a loader. I am using the mount that comes with the Horst blade. So can people please comment where this applies. I know the 400 loader from JD doesn't have a chance.


Your a smart man going with the Horst Harness over the loader on a compact. Once you get to a 6000 series and up the JD loaders are fine to use for plowing. Still thinking you might be better off with a 5000 series but I realldon't know much about 4 and 5000 series to comment. I've never really liked hydrostatic drive but they have there purpose. I did own a 4720 for one day but that's another story.


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## DeVries (Nov 27, 2007)

Ok you changed my mind Dave&Kirby. I guess I'm gonna have to look at the Horst for plowing. I'm talking to the dealer now about the loader, they say they will get back this week to me.(Tuesday)

I really don't want to take a chance. I'd rather spend a few bucks and make sure that it will work properly for me. Thanks for the input.


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## fieldman12 (Dec 17, 2008)

In my opinion a utility tractor is more bank for the buck all the way around. They are built heavier and can handle larger impliments. I feel that the compacts are way over priced. Granted, if you need a machine that is small then the compact will fit your needs, but you also need to realize a 50hp compact is not going to push the same as a 50 hp utility tractor if they both are without weights and the tires are not loaded. I own a New Holland TN70 and a MF255. I do all my own repairs. I spend way less that $1,000 total each a year for maintenece on the two of them. I also own a John Deere 250 Series II skid steer and it cost me way less than a $1,000.00 each year. If mine where costing me the 12,000.00 the one guy stated I would be getting rid of all my equipment quick.


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## Ramairfreak98ss (Aug 17, 2005)

heres ours, with an 8' protech box









works great, can push in range C which does about 15mph almost, middle range i can push anything, but yeah you'll loose traction before the 66hp diesel gives up

ive learned you cant rest the whole box on the ground in float mode.. you need to just drop it enough to have the rubber edge touch.

Resting the 900lb box and say 500lb loader arms/hydraulics on the ground is losing a lot of weight you want on the front tires.


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## Ramairfreak98ss (Aug 17, 2005)




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## TremblaySNOW (Oct 7, 2009)

Hi,
can you tell me how much you paid for your fender flairs?


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## TremblaySNOW (Oct 7, 2009)

Send more pics 
This tractor is sweet i have two of them!


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