# Considering a jeep



## roachy

Just some questions from a newbie... What are the chances ill have to end up replacing the trans if I get a jeep wrangler for plowing resi homes for 1 or 2 seasons. What would these chances be compared to say a F250 or 2500 truck. If not the trans then the chances of spending all my earnings on repairing the jeep after the season. Not sure how well these vehicles handle the beatings from plowing..Any advice would be great.


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## theplowmeister

Ive use Jeep wranglers for 24 years plowing 50 to 100 driveways (BIG suburban driveways) Ive used manual trans. they hold up just fine

the TJ uses the same front axle u-joint as the F350

F-end parts are less expensive than the truck parts, you can plow almost twice as many drives in the same time, so you make more money. With more money you can spend more on repairs.


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## roachy

I know these answers are scattered around this forum so sorry for asking anyway. Just a bunch of questions I could come up with. Any input would be great.

-V4 vs V6 for plowing
-How many miles do jeeps last for compared to say a truck or diesel vehicle. 
-What yrs would be best when buying a used vehicle in the 4grand price range.
-Is it possible to get a decent jeep without spending much more than 4grand or will this only buy me a pos
-Say I buy a used jeep and put my plow on, is there anything that would be considered a necessary for plowing. Would snow tires be a must because now I would have to be reconsidering my budget. 

This site has great info and have been trying to spend as many hrs as possible reading from all you guys. Thanks for the help.


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## theplowmeister

for $4000 you will get a POS

I plowed for 8 years (250,000 miles 60 drivers/storm 12 storms a year ) on my 1990 Jeep, still ran like a top when I sold it.

the V6 didn't come out until 2005 or 06 (also had one in the 70's I think all others are inline 6, a bullet proof engine


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## brunosplace

The best engine for your purpose would be the 4.0L inline 6 cylinder. I am personally fond of it with the 32RH (3 speed) automatic for plowing. (it was used in the TJ's 1997-2002, the 2003-2006 TJ's used the 42RLE which isn't known for its strength). The 4.0 was used through 2006. The new JK in 2007 went to the V6 minivan motor.

$4000 will get you an older YJ (87-95), or a TJ (97-06) that has serious issues, unless you stumble upon a great deal.


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## flykelley

If you buy a YJ you had better either buy one with a plow or have a plow and MOUNT already. Mounts for YJ are very hard to find. Most of the time you need to have one fabbed up. For driveways jeeps are the way to go, love mine and they just keep going.

Good Luck


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## Plow Man Jim

The money that you are talking about spending will get you either a 4 cly or a 6 cyl. You look around and you should find something in good shape. There is one manual tranny that is no good you'll have to check it out good. I can't remember which one it is now. I've been out of the loop long enough i just don't remember which one, but check it out good ,because it was junk and I'm not just saying that. Prices are different where ever you go.Just check them out good like you would any other unit. As far as taking a beating well i get tired of people using that term. If you abuse anything it will take it's toll on it. Snow plowing does not beat up a unit as long as you use some common sense and always take it easy. It's when you take short cuts and get all rammie is when you tear things up.


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## theplowmeister

I think the Plow man is talking about the Peugeot tranny They had a bad reputation.

I put 250K on my'n, plowed every year and went 4 wheeling in Moab most summers and never had any problem. my friend has 3 jeeps plowing with that tranny and had 1 that blue the reverse gear.


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## Plow Man Jim

PlowMeister:
There you go your right on the money.. That is the one they used to talk about. Thanks for the reminder. I personally never had one, but I heard so many people say that they did have one and had problems that I always figured if all I could find was one with the Peugeot tranny that I would just tear it out and order a good after market one.

Boy living in Main is that right? I'll bet you get your share of snow every year....... Last year it was crazy busy around here in Iowa. It seemed like every other day it would snow...Ha Ha kind of like it did back when I was a kid..L.O.L.. Boy plowing snow gets in your blood after a guy puts on a blade and starts using it. L.O.L..


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## Mass4x4fun

MA is for Mass, just to let you know.ussmileyflag 

I am the one that runs 3- 95 wranglers ( YJ's). I plow about 100 driveway's and some are privet roads too. The rig will hold up fine. I also like to beef up the front of the frame for the plow mount.

If the trans has an internal slave cylinder it is the Peugeot trans. Walk away or plan on replacing it. Also look for frame rot (with a small hammer) at the steering box & behind the rear axle where it droops down along the bottom to the shackle.


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## Plow Man Jim

*Great Reply..*

OK you have got me there..L.O.L. As soon as I read your reply I L.O.L. and said Oh ya he's right.... Ha Ha Ha..

By the way Great advise for those that do not know.. I happed to know but then I've been a Jeep nut for many years. L.O.L...

Great to see that we have a lot of Jeep owners on here.. :waving:


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## RangerDogg

mass 4x4 where are you from


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## Mass4x4fun

Ranger,
I am near 128 & the Mass pike. Where do you call home? Are you looking for work?


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## RangerDogg

I live in Lowell,ma.And im looking to plow for the someome that needs help and is fair for price.I have plowed for 15years commercial /residential .Big f250 now 2nd ranger.


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## theplowmeister

Mass4x4fun;1094143 said:


> MA is for Mass, just to let you know.ussmileyflag
> 
> *I am the one that runs 3- 95 wranglers *( YJ's). I plow about 100 driveway's and some are privet roads too. *The rig will hold up fine*. I also like to beef up the front of the frame for the plow mount.
> 
> If the trans has an internal slave cylinder *it is the Peugeot trans. Walk away *or plan on replacing it. Also look for frame rot (with a small hammer) at the steering box & behind the rear axle where it droops down along the bottom to the shackle.


I'm confused... Is it fine or should I walk away?


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## roachy

Thanks for all the info. I did a search and the peugot trans is only in yj's from 87-89. Im not looking at anything this old anyways. Not sure, but I heard something about the '99 jeeps being a bad year as well. Ive seen a lot of 97's in my area that seem in decent shape for 4grand. Still looking, just havent broke out the wallet on any yet.


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## wls

theplowmeister;1088918 said:


> for $4000 you will get a POS
> 
> I plowed for 8 years (250,000 miles 60 drivers/storm 12 storms a year ) on my 1990 Jeep, still ran like a top when I sold it.
> 
> the V6 didn't come out until 2005 or 06 (also had one in the 70's I think all others are inline 6, a bullet proof engine


here's my 4500 POS, just kidding on the POS, just picked it up, straight 6, 5sp.


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## theplowmeister

WOW that for 4500 Nice

if the frame and mechanics look as good as the pick you got a nice rig


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## wls

theplowmeister;1099272 said:


> WOW that for 4500 Nice
> 
> if the frame and mechanics look as good as the pick you got a nice rig


No rust, just very little surface rust, put new mirrors on. Sort of thinking of putting a plow on, for back up. I think it has a 1.75-2" spring lift. here's a couple pics pics of the spring area, pretty clean. Runs great


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## P&M Landscaping

That my friend is a great deal


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## theplowmeister

wls;1099279 said:


> No rust, just very little surface rust, put new mirrors on. Sort of thinking of putting a plow on, for back up.


That is why I got my first Jeep, I had an F150 with a fisher RD 7 1/2 plow

I got a jeep as backup, set it up with a 6 1/2 Fisher plow, on the 3rd storm I thought I'd try the jeep out. That was the last time I drove the truck. two weeks later I was looking at the plow mount and realized the 7 1/2 fisher would fit the jeep push plates. Next storm I ran the 7 1/2 plow on the jeep. that summer I sold the truck with the 6 1/2 plow on it.


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## roachy

Thats a nice looking jeep for what you paid for it. Theres def deals out there this time of yr and a couple I almost closed a deal on. Ill post pics when I eventually buy something. Cant wait till I finally own one.


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## wls

roachy;1100059 said:


> Thats a nice looking jeep for what you paid for it. Theres def deals out there this time of yr and a couple I almost closed a deal on. Ill post pics when I eventually buy something. Cant wait till I finally own one.


I thought it was a good buy, did'nt really know much about jeeps though, researched on the web, to see what to look for. He was asking 4900.00 for it, I asked his lowest price, he said 4500.00, So the wife and I took it for a ride and bought it. I love driving it, My grocery getter is a 2001 prius, 40-52mpg, wife said the other day, you have'nt diven the prius since you got the jeep.xysport


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## taterntot101

Just a quick fyi, I'm already seeing a lot of '97 Wranglers rotting out just in front of the rear axle, where they decided to put the nice big round hole in the frame to catch the road salt and slush as it comes off the tires.


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## 86ford

theplowmeister;1088766 said:


> the TJ uses the same front axle u-joint as the F350
> 
> .


That is 100% wrong. The jeeps have used 1310 joints since 95. The f350 has run the 1480 series joints since 78 or 79.


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## theplowmeister

86ford;1102093 said:


> That is 100% wrong. The jeeps have used 1310 joints since 95. The f350 has run the 1480 series joints since 78 or 79.


I stand corrected:yow!: You are correct As it turns out I was repeating what I was told, Incorrect info apparently.

But according to spicer the jeep uses 1/2 ton U-joints


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## 86ford

theplowmeister;1103399 said:


> I stand corrected:yow!: You are correct As it turns out I was repeating what I was told, Incorrect info apparently.
> 
> But according to spicer the jeep uses 1/2 ton U-joints


Now your correct when it comes to older 3/4ton solid axles too, they do use a 1310 joint.. The coil sprung 2500 dodges from the mid 90s up use a d60 front along with the late 90s f250 fords and the rare f250s from 78-79 with a kp d60.

If jeep would of only used dana 44 lock out hubs and not those silly unit bearings.

FYI my info was not completely correct. Jeep has used a 1310 joint for a very long time since before 95 but in 95 they upgraded to the 5-297x joint and later the 5-760x (an even better u-joint).


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## theplowmeister

I knew it was not the Super-duty fords. I like the hub bearing on the jeep. easy to lube (you dont) easy to take apart and reassemble for excess to shaft, last a long time I get 150K out of mine with plowing and off roading.


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## 86ford

theplowmeister;1103502 said:


> I knew it was not the Super-duty fords. I like the hub bearing on the jeep. easy to lube (you dont) easy to take apart and reassemble for excess to shaft, last a long time I get 150K out of mine with plowing and off roading.


The problem I have is they cost 100 dollars or more for good ones and if they fail its catastrophic. The wheel bearings for a older vehicle cost 10-30 dollars a piece so you can spend 60 not 100. Not to mention you can clean them if they get packed full of mud, salt etc.

If you bust a shaft with manual lockouts you can continue to plow in 2wd (yes I know it stinks) but its better than being dead in the water. Most of the jeeps and rigs I work on are locked in at least one axle so a busted shaft is much less of a deal.


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## Aveerainc

Been plowing for 4 years with my 1997 Wrangler Sahara with Meyer plow- it's a beast and no problems with the manual transmission or 4.0 6 cylinder. I'm selling the package and will get a new plow for my 2008 Wrangler unlimited.


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## MLG

Roachy,

One thing I've noticed is whatever people plow with seems to be the "best" rig to plow snow with. As for full-sized vs small, I have a Toyota truck with a plow on it and it's worked out pretty well. I've used full-sized trucks too. I like my Toyota with the plow and I've never had any problems with it, but, no matter what, I can't deny that the full-sized trucks handle a plow with very little resistance. You can plow through the big stuff and not have to worry about weight, power or getting stuck (for the most part). There's just a lot more weight there and the rear wheels don't come way off the ground. A rig like a full-sized Blazer or Tahoe make great plow rigs because of the short wheel base. Plus you are up in the air for good viewing. Generally in a full-sized truck you don't have to worry as much about the tranny crapping out, or front springs/ball joints breaking like they did on my Cherokee. OTOH, nothing wrong with a Wrangler either. It has it's benefits with a short wheelbase but detractions as well. They are not going to be as robust but you just have to take it a little easier, use your smarts. Guys have been using them to plow with for decades. Anyway, you asked, for opinions and feedback, so there is mine. Good luck.

MLG


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## theplowmeister

MLG;1107109 said:


> Roachy,
> 
> One thing I've noticed is whatever people plow with seems to be the "best" rig to plow snow with. As for full-sized vs small, I have a Toyota truck with a plow on it and it's worked out pretty well. I've used full-sized trucks too. I like my Toyota with the plow and I've never had any problems with it, but, no matter what, I can't deny that the full-sized trucks handle a plow with very little resistance. You can plow through the big stuff and not have to worry about weight, power or getting stuck (for the most part). There's just a lot more weight there and the rear wheels don't come way off the ground. A rig like a full-sized Blazer or Tahoe make great plow rigs because of the short wheel base. Plus you are up in the air for good viewing. Generally in a full-sized truck you don't have to worry as much about the tranny crapping out, or front springs/ball joints breaking like they did on my Cherokee. OTOH, nothing wrong with a Wrangler either. It has it's benefits with a short wheelbase but detractions as well. They are not going to be as robust but you just have to take it a little easier, use your smarts. Guys have been using them to plow with for decades. Anyway, you asked, for opinions and feedback, so there is mine. Good luck.
> 
> MLG


Thats why I dont use my jeep to plow walmart. Maybe the walmart truck aint so good for driveways

the right too for the job.


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## roachy

Thanks for all the input guys, just reposting to this topic because I finally bought a jeep. I got a 99tj sport. It took me awhile to find a 6cyl but I listened to everyones advice and love the added power. 

My next step is to buy a plow right now before the weather picks up. I definately dont have the money to buy a new plow so I need some advice as far as used ones. My price range doesnt go much over a grand and I feel like everything Ive seen in this range is rusted and junk. Any thoughts on what to look for here. Im Considering an older meyers or western suburbanite. Am I wasting my money buying something thats seen better days and priced around $750. Any input would help.


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## snowplowdog

I have a 1990 YJ that I put a 6 1/2' Meyer plow on about 2 years ago. It's probably not the best setup in the world but I haven't had any trouble with it yet. I had to fab up my own mount since the one that came with it was for a Nissan, but I got the entire setup plus an extra pump for $150.00 (right place right time) I wouldn't do large parking lots with it but for the residential driveways & alleyways I do it works great.


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## tjmahl

Great, i have my 2nd. '88 Wrangler, replaced the trans on the 1st one lost reverse now this one's tranny is not acting right, didn't know about the Peugot trans. Its in all '88 wranlgers?


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## snowplowdog

I don't know if it's in all 88 wranglers, but I would find out if you can swap it with the AX15 transmission. I have the AX15 in my 90 YJ. It's a fairly durable transmission & not too difficult to work on if you have problems.


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## roachy

snowplowdog

You mentioned that the ax15 is not too difficult to work on. Was wondering how difficult it was to drop out the tranny and put it back in. Im gonna need to replace mine with probably a used or rebuilt one. Ive only done standard fluid changes on the tranny, so I wasnt sure how hard it would be to do a swap in my garage and save some money.


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## snowplowdog

I did mine in a few hours. I had taken mine outbecause it was stuck in reverse. I took it to 2 different transmission shops that both told me I needed to replace it with a remanufactured unit. When I brought it home I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the broken parts myself figuring worst case scenario I would be buying a used/rebuilt unit anyway. Turns out there was nothing broken just the shifting arm had slipped out of place & just needed to be realigned. put it back together & back in the Jep it went & works great.

As far as taking it out & putting it in yourself it's not too difficult to do in your garage. Just remove the starter, driveshafts, and loosen the exhaust at the manifold, then unbolt the bell housing & crossmember. Just make sure you have a good stable jack underneath it. Then you can slide the entire unit out from under the Jeep & seperate the bellhousing & transfer case from the transmission. Pretty straightforward with standard tools. Just be careful with your internal slave cylinder for the clutch, if that gets damaged you'll be re placing the clutch too. Having someone to help you is definitely a plus too. I also included a link with some rebuild info for the AX15.

http://www.jeepolog.com/UserFiles/downloads/Jeep_AX15_service_manual_Transmission.pdf


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## jeepstreet

Jeeps! Just got a 6.5 meyer that I will be putting on a 1991 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) this week. I have a simple question as I have never mounted a snow plow, and have a few cents to add to this post. My question is what is the proper height a meyer should be mounted at for the best performance?

2 door Jeep Cherokee, unibody construction as most of you know and the windows will pop out when twisted enuff, or enuff times. I build Jeeps for a living, I have done very strange things to test the durability on most Jeep models especially the Cherokee, and Wrangler. I have found that the frames on both the YJ (1987 - 1995) and TJ (97 - 06) are weak due to safety standards and are only intended for mid level off road use when factory equipped. Cherokees are even more flimsey, but there are fixes for these vehicles if one tends to use them for heavy offroad or commercial uses. Most of you know the basics so I will skip that and focus on reinforcing a cherokee, and state what I have learned, the good, and the bad.

The last Cherokee I did was a 1998 - the customer was interested in mounting a Warn 9.5ti to a custom bumper, I had informed him that reinforcment will be needed from the strut towers to the front cross member on both sides of the frame rails, I had also informed him this will destroy your "crumple zone" and the passengers may feel quite a jolt if a front impact were to occur. He was fine with this and I and I did my work. Header panel, radiator, steering box, sway bar ect, needed to be removed, the vehicle was then fitted with 3/8 steel plate and welded into place, everything went back together the same as it came apart and the vehicle looked bone stock. Testing the suspension and body movement under stress showed very little signs of improvement in the overall length of the vehicle, most of the time the body movement is from the shock towers and back on these vehicles, this mod was strictly for mounting possibilities on the front end and it worked well when I tested the front end strength. Sadly the man never did put his bumper or anything on for that matter and I later purchased the vehicle to use as a loaner car. It was wrecked last weak and because of the front end mod, it was a total loss. I had the Jeep lent out and we had quite an ice storm, the Jeep slid down a steep hill, hit an embankment and went airborn, the front bumper was the only thing that looked to be damaged, a closer look revealed that the impact was absorbed behind the shock tower which caused a wave in the fender and a 3/4 inch door gap from the roof to the door. The roof was slightly buckled and the door did not shut properly, I have only seen this happen in a 20+ mph front corner impact in which the crumple zones were crushed. This Jeep no longer had those crumple zones and the energy had to be transferred elsewhere resulting in a minimal speed crash with a total loss. In all one needs to be carefull when performing these kind of mods to unibody vehicles. I ask myself will I total my vehicle if I hit a curb at 15 mph with a plow? Anyways I can go on and on.

The same setup is what I intend to use for the Meyer plow, I may run some metal farther back (front seat area) for added strength, I know plows can really cause some issues and would like to prevent that as much as possible. I have upgraded my gears and put in a heavier rear end. I have the AX15 5 speed and an upgraded 231 Transfer Case that should be near the 4000lb mark. I have installed the newer 99 Jeep 4.0 with the round intake for better breathing and to accomidate the 3.8 Buick supercharger. Should be a good light weight plow rig!

Ax15 tranny can be swapped in place of the peugot, the sun gear in your Tcase will have to be changed to a 23 spline, or one can buy a 1991 - 2004 Jeep 231 Tcase. As for automatics the AW-4 is a great transmission that comes stock in most jeep cherokee 4.0 they hardly ever break. Dodge Durango and Grand Cherokee guys are SOL with thier auto trannies cause they are junk from 93 up to mid 2000s. My Durangedgo is on #3 with 160k. 

Great board here, lots of info. Thanks


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## snowplowdog

I used to have a diagram here on my computer but trying to find it now is like looking for a needle in a haystack. I just went out & measured mine & it is 10" from the clevis to the ground.


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## jeepstreet

Sweet, gettn ready to run it in the shop and now I have something to start with! Thanks


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## jeepstreet

Forgot to answer a question regarding best bang for the buck jeep wise!

Stay away from any CJ - c frames and the steering brackets break easily, carbs suck too.
Stay away from 87 - 90 YJ (Wranglers) Decent frames but are prone to serious electrical, engine, and exhaust problems, they do not like to stay running much past 150k miles without constant repair.
Stay away from 84 - 90 (XJ) Cherokees weak components, huge problems with the cooling system which lead to head replacement, hvac and emission stuff is terrible when they hit an older age.

Best bang for around 4k would be 91 - 95 YJ with a 4.0, the 2.5 is junk. Bad thing is alot of wranglers near the 4k range tend to need another 1 - 2k worh of work wether it be body or mechanical, engines are the upgraded 4.0HO and the tranny is based on the old school 727 which fair really well. Second choice IMHO would be the 91 - 94 Jeep Cherokee, indistructible aw4 auto, the manual trannys are the same as a wrangler (AX15) might have to deal with some reinforcements on the engine bay to keep that plow from damaging other things and you can easily modify or add for HP gain. Cherokees have coils in the front and leaf suspension in the rear and can be easily lifted for under 500 bucks. I prefer the cherokee over the wrangler because of comfort and room,

If you wanna spend a bit more it may be wise to look at the TJ wrangler (97 - 06) full frame same components (cept rubicon) as the cherokee and wrangler, they have both soft and hard tops that keep you warmer and the interior is alot easier on the eyes. TJ's were also equipped with 4 corners of coils which means alot more bushings and a softer ride.

My favorite would be the 99 Jeep Cherokee, same as other cherokees cept they rounded the intake for better flow and unlike a 2000 or 2001 they retained the old style distribution. HP was about 195 vrs 190 on previous models, and 200 - 205 on the 2000 and higher models.

When looking at a Jeep consider a few things, repair! Wranglers are expensive when it comes to sheet metal and those parts can be very hard to find. Wranglers hold thier value better than 95% of the vehicles on the road today and are alot of times sold over NADA or KBB book price. 1 of three timeless american classics next to harley and corvette. Cherokees share the same drive terrain as most wranglers but the parts are far cheaper and easier to come by. Try to find a cherokee that has the 231j Transfer case, the others suck - a 231 will have 2wd 4hi N and 4low and have been used for years in alot of vehicles, full size chevy and dodge trucks, the Blazer and S10, Dodge uses them in both trucks and SUVs and more. Cherokees however have shown a spike in price over the past 2 years and are now reaching values nearing the Jeep Wrangler, I dont forsee cherokees dropping anytime soon. Whats crazy is the Comanche MJ (Jeep Cherokee Pickup) an 87 sells more now than it did in 87 considering the condition. I had recently built a 99 manch and it sold for 9500 plus a 5k trade in. MJs are nearly identical with the exception of the pick up box, the frame rails are different from the seat rearward. Most comanches were built prior to 91, finding a 91 or newer is tuff and quite a treasue.

Engines - Jeep had several engines and only one was decent - the 4.0ho. 87 - 90s wrangler actually had a 4.2 and all inline 6s in cherokees were the 4.0. The 2.5, and 2.8 are terrible, built by chevy and pawned off to Jeep hence the phrase Just Everybody Elses Parts! to sum it up 91 - 2001 Jeep Cherokee or Wrangler! 

Grand Cherokees! oops I forgot to mention anything...


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## roachy

Snowplowdog, 

Thanks for that manual. Ive been looking for something like that.


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## snowplowdog

roachy;1176609 said:


> Snowplowdog,
> 
> Thanks for that manual. Ive been looking for something like that.


No problem. Someone posted it on another Jeep website & it was great information for me. Saved me $1400.00, hope it helps you as much as it did me.


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## CrazyCooter

*CJ's and plowing*

It all depends on what you want it to do for you. Right now, my 1984 CJ7 is decked out with a engine driven hydraulic meyers and chains on all four. It is unstuckable  Spent yesterday pushing back bankings.

It all depends on your level of mechanical ability. I bought the CJ7 and the plow for $500 and have put in new floor pans (still more have more finishing work to do.) The one thing I can say is stay away from the factory mounts for the CJ as they are only a few inches off the ground. This is my third CJ and it came with a custom frame mount that gives me tons of clearance. When I finish rebuilding this one and sell it, the mounts will definitely not go with it 

I love using it so much that I would rather plow with it than my 09 Chevy 2500 with a Boss V.

Shop around, and if you're mechanically inclined, you can get a good jeep for a song.


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## ken643

My friend uses Jeep wranglers for all his driveways, I had a 1993 Jeep cherokee, Worked great, but unibody and rust was tough to save it. my friend reccomended Wranglers. I went with a 2004 Rubicon. My second season with it doing 40 driveways and 2 small lots no issues. I also manitain it ooften to keep it in good shape.the videos at the link below should sell you on the Jeep Rubicon, It goes through it all! and small enough to turn around in the driveays. Great vehicle!wesportpayupussmileyflag

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=114431


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## snowplowdog

theplowmeister;1100002 said:


> That is why I got my first Jeep, I had an F150 with a fisher RD 7 1/2 plow
> 
> I got a jeep as backup, set it up with a 6 1/2 Fisher plow, on the 3rd storm I thought I'd try the jeep out. That was the last time I drove the truck. two weeks later I was looking at the plow mount and realized the 7 1/2 fisher would fit the jeep push plates. Next storm I ran the 7 1/2 plow on the jeep. that summer I sold the truck with the 6 1/2 plow on it.


Doesn't 7 1/2' feel a bit wide on the Jeep? I have a 6 1/2' Meyer on my YJ and I'm comfortable with that. I do mostly residential driveways & a few alleyways so the 6 1/2' is plenty wide for me.

I see you have a nice V-Plow on the front of your Jeep. I've been thinking of upgrading to a V-plow in the offseason. Are the V's alot heavier than a conventional straight blade?


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