# [B][/B] Fisher MM1 diagnostics ?



## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

Changed the oil in the MM1 - it was milky and tan. Refilled w/ the blue stuff.

The plow worked great ..... but after a few hrs ... the motor would whine and eventually could hardly lift the plow.... now it doesnt work at all. The red light is on the controller box , but when the joystick is moved any position , no electric motor sound and no alternator drain on the dash.

Im gonna hook up 12v to the electric motor bolt on the side , but then what ??

New Pump New electric motor New relay ???

Always during a storm .

Thanks ... I gotta get this thing fixed.


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## Plowfixguys (Oct 17, 2009)

Check the motor and solenoid. Sounds like the motor died. See if you have 12 volts at the motor when operating the plow, if you do replace the motor, if you dont go to the solenoids and grounds.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Given that it died slowly, I would be inclined to say it's the motor. Do you hear the relay clicking under the hood?


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## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

2COR517;917317 said:


> Given that it died slowly, I would be inclined to say it's the motor. Do you hear the relay clicking under the hood?


No relay clicking under the hood .... absolutely nothing happens when the joystick controls are moved.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Use a screwdriver to short across the big terrminals on the relay and see if the motor fires.


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## Plowfixguys (Oct 17, 2009)

Is the controller powered up? Also see if you have power at the solenoid when you operate the controller.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

2COR517;917346 said:


> Use a screwdriver to short across the big terrminals on the relay and see if the motor fires.


Ditto. And if it does run replace the underhood solenoid.


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## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

Will do ..... both suggestions . 

By the way - the wire from the joystick controller connects to a black , small box type thing mounted in the engine near the battery - has some other wires to it also. This thing looks very very rusted and old. Was wondering what this is called ?? 

Thanks for the suggestions - be back with results


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

PAGE2004;917364 said:


> Will do ..... both suggestions .
> 
> By the way - the wire from the joystick controller connects to a black , small box type thing mounted in the engine near the battery - has some other wires to it also. This thing looks very very rusted and old. Was wondering what this is called ??
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions - be back with results


That would be the under hood solenoid I spoke of. And if it looks that bad don't mess around, replace it.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Make sure you unhook the positive wire from the battery before changing the relay. 

If you need one tonight, call around to your plowing buddies. Good chance someone has one in the glovebox or behind the seat.


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## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

The outcome : 

I applied 12v to the positive stud on the side of the motor , and it spinned , also the joystick controls worked in the cab while this 12v was attached.

Got a new solenoid for 50 bucks and solved the problem.

I checked the blue fluid level , it was down a few ounces , the plow still moves slower than it should .... any ideas ?

Fluid was changed very recently.

Thanks for the valuable advice.


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

Last winter was the first winter I used my plow. It had been sitting for 5 years or so covered up good. It would wine a little when I would try to raise it. I drained all the fluid and refilled. I also added a little Seafoam Transtune to the fluid to help get any water out. seemed to work good. I have only used the plow a couple times this winter. The noise has come back some. I need to take it apart and give it a good going over.

Anyways, try a little transtune in the fluid just in case there is still some condensation in the fluid.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Hey bud, Napa sells the Fisher Solenoid's for $16- I bought 2 last week- don't mess around with the aftermarket ones, I had one fail after 2 storms. 

If your plow is slow, I'm thinking your filter is clogged up from the old fluid. You have to remove your motor then pump to get to it, clean it with parts cleaner/brake cleaner, and it should be ok for the time being or just replace that as well since its cheap.


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## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

plowguy43;918589 said:


> Hey bud, Napa sells the Fisher Solenoid's for $16- I bought 2 last week- don't mess around with the aftermarket ones, I had one fail after 2 storms.
> 
> If your plow is slow, I'm thinking your filter is clogged up from the old fluid. You have to remove your motor then pump to get to it, clean it with parts cleaner/brake cleaner, and it should be ok for the time being or just replace that as well since its cheap.


I paid like 60 bucks for a Fisher solenoid - you say they're at Napa for $16 ?

I was advised to 
Remove the plastic cover on the MM1 pump - 
Remove the 3 solenoids one at a time and check for sludge build up ( screens )

Under the motor there are NO screens in the reservoir correct ?? 
Can stuff clog in the reservoir ??

PS- I'll pick up some TRANSTUNE.


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## no lead (Dec 10, 2008)

there is a filter in the resevoir on the pump. you must clean it.


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## Crash935 (Sep 3, 2003)

PAGE2004;918331 said:


> Got a new solenoid for 50 bucks and solved the problem.


You need to find a new dealer that wont srew you. List from Fisher is $13.00.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Could be selling the HD Trombetta's as replacements. Price would be about right then.


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## mansf123 (Nov 10, 2009)

i payed 11 bucks for a solanoid


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

When you replaced the fluid, did you pull the pump out and replace the pick up filter attached to it as well as clean the base of the reservoir? If you just dumped the fluid, and replaced it there may still be gunk in there slowing it down, especially if you didn't replace the pick up filter. 

$60 for a Motor Relay??? WTF


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## PAGE2004 (Feb 19, 2004)

Hopefully , I can post the pictures here for those of you that might have the same problem with a slow operating MM1 .

Pic one shows the the pump reservoir with the CLEANED screen attached to the side of the pump. I cleaned it with the air hose at low pressure.

Pic two shows the screen itself .. loaded with sludge.

Pic three shows the 3 solenoids located under the black cover which the electric wires hook to. One at a time , remove each solenoid , then slide the electrical piece back on the stem and hook 12 volts ( both positive and negative ) to either electrical plugs . The solenoid should click and open and close freely ...if not ... they need to be replaced.

My pump goes back on tomorrow and I think the sludged up fluid screen was my problem .

We'll see.

Next issue will be to find out why my Meyer electric e47 is slow damn slow after screen changes and new fluid.


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