# Testing coils on Boss RT3



## ftimbo (Jan 2, 2012)

Boss RT3 no longer angles left or right. I can hear the pump working when I push the button but it does not swing left or right. I pulled the coils off the angle solenoid valve that control left/right and measured them with a multimeter. Both read 4.5 ohms. The other coils (up, down, and smart hitch) all read about the same. Is there a proper way to test the coils for magnetization? If they test OK, is there a way to test the angle solenoid valve? 

Thanks.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

just pwr and gnd the 2 tangs, usually a screwdriver to see if they are working. pulling on the screwdriver.
you could always switch the coils from up, down and hitch and see if it works left to right


----------



## ftimbo (Jan 2, 2012)

took off the coils and tested with a screwdriver. they both magnetized and both are definitely working. 

I can't test the angle solenoid valve with the other coils.. the angle angle coils are a bit bigger than the rest. 

before I go ahead and take off one of the angle hoses to see if theres fluid moving.. is there anyway to test the angle solenoid valve itself? anything I should look for? cleaned it with air compressor and it looks fine, o-rings are all intact look fine.. anyway to test the thing while it's out of the plow?


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you make sure you have pwr going to them when u angle left or right?


----------



## ftimbo (Jan 2, 2012)

there is. about 11V going to the coil when button is pushed.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Hummmm ok. I assume u tested this with a meter instead of a test light?


----------



## ftimbo (Jan 2, 2012)

Yes tested with a meter.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

ok,,retry it with a test light.


----------



## T-Trim (Nov 8, 2005)

I believe all coils are the same. Which is one of the best parts of a Boss plow. Check all loose connections. Meaning the point at which the controller connects to or where the plow mounts at the 13 pin connector.


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If both coils tested ok for mag then the valve is likely the problem. Not uncommon for one to swell and jamb up after some hard use. You can remove it and stroke it's spool inward with a small screwdriver or pick to see if it stuck but it isn't a 100% valid test on these and usually requires simply replacing it.


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

dieselss;1407437 said:


> ok,,retry it with a test light.


Why?........


----------



## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

dieselss;1407437 said:


> ok,,retry it with a test light.


 why???


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

b/c a meter will not tell you if you have 12v loaded voltage going to your source. you can use a meter but it needs to be used with a test light as well. a meter will tell you no,,,but by itself it will never be able to tell you yes.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

ftimbo;1406983 said:


> there is. about 11V going to the coil when button is pushed.


Now I'm guessing that the truck was running when he checked this?
if it was,,shouldnt he be getting 14??? if it was tested with test light,,,the light might not even light up b/c there is to much resistance somewhere.


----------



## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

dieselss;1408317 said:


> b/c a meter will not tell you if you have 12v loaded voltage going to your source. you can use a meter but it needs to be used with a test light as well. a meter will tell you no,,,but by itself it will never be able to tell you yes.


So you suggest a test light as a load tester? Maybe with a cheap test light but today's LED units don't draw any more scarifical voltage then a mulit-meter. A coil would provide a much better amp sink.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

A regular lighted test light is best for this type if test. An led light will not put enough of a load in the system


----------



## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

dieselss;1408457 said:


> A regular lighted test light is best for this type if test. An led light will not put enough of a load in the system


If you want to do a load test, throw the multimeter in line. they are normally a 10volt/16watt coil they shouldn't overload the average Mmeter even if the system is only throwing 11 volts or they are 24watt coils.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

I was kinda getting at, in a round about way,,,,why does he only gave 11v at the coil? Now don't get me wrong they will work as low as like 5v.... But 11v is low for a 12v system. Putting the meter in line is not going to test voltage. It would only test amps.


----------



## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

dieselss;1408320 said:


> Now I'm guessing that the truck was running when he checked this?
> if it was,,shouldnt he be getting 14??? if it was tested with test light,,,the light might not even light up b/c there is to much resistance somewhere.





dieselss;1408550 said:


> I was kinda getting at, in a round about way,,,,why does he only gave 11v at the coil? Now don't get me wrong they will work as low as like 5v.... But 11v is low for a 12v system. Putting the meter in line is not going to test voltage. It would only test amps.


Remember Occam's Razor, you're looking for Zebras. The concern here is not the voltage outside of its effect on the angle systems. Once we know the coils magnetize voltage/ampere/volt load are ill-relevant.

Yes I agree the voltage is low. I would guess the truck was not running, and with the plow motor running the available voltage could be low.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

From what I was rereading he never tested the coils back on the truck. Just want to make sure he has proper voltage in, and proper ground. Could be coils as well, or garbage in fluid


----------



## ftimbo (Jan 2, 2012)

Turns out it's the valve... took one of a working plow, same model. Now that I know the valve needs to be replaced, is there any thing I can do to possibly get this thing working again? put in some solvent or anything? it's going to get scrapped anyways for a new one


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

You can try that,,,might be something small that got in there. There has been a lot of people on that had luck cleaning them. Me personally, I would replace. But that's me. Glad you got it figured out tho.....good job


----------



## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Depends on your feelings towards dependability. If it was mine i would install a new one and throw the bad one in the trash. It will only fail again when you are using it.


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

They don't stick due to debris (like most of the other brands) they stick because they're bent. Replace it, as I mentioned previously.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Really B&B? Not starting anything but. Are they better? Holes bigger?


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

With weather protected hydraulics and their superb HydraForce valves and the fluid being well filtered before reaching the valves, yes it's very rare to have valve contamination issues in a Boss system.

Brows the other brand forums and you'll quickly see what I'm referring to. Speaking for myself I sometimes feel like a broken record with the whole "remove, clean, stroke debris from valve or replace" speech on the other forums. It's very rare to need to make that same speech in the Boss forum because they stay clean.


----------



## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Thx. Understand..


----------



## T-Trim (Nov 8, 2005)

Where is the filter on a boss plow at? I never saw one. Never had a problem with a boss plow in many many year.


----------



## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If it's an RT2 there's the usual brass screen filters on the pickup and return tubes in the reservoir in addition to a serviceable one in the manifold block. If it's an RT3 then there's only the brass ones in the reservoir. In addition to of course the mesh screens on each valve that any valve has.


----------



## T-Trim (Nov 8, 2005)

thanks B&B. I didn't even know. Show you how much our plows get into trouble. Knock on wood


----------

