# 2500hd or 3500hd for plowing?



## Ziob34 (Oct 12, 2005)

Been a ford guys for a long time but have had so many problems and heard good things about the chevy and its 6.0 motor i'm leaning towards getting one. Have the option right now for a 2011 2500hd extended cab LT model standard 6.6' bbed with a plow and a 2013 3500hd work truck model regular cab 8 foot bed. both are 6.0 gas.

Is there a big difference where its worth getting the 3500 1 ton or are the drivetrains basically the same thing just extra suspension and springs.


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Why not get a 2500 with a long-box a box?
If you can't carry a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the tailgate closed why buy it?
I just dont get the 6ft box....
What is a 6ft box for? Hauling grocery's?


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## Kevin_NJ (Jul 24, 2003)

While I agree 8' bed is the only way to go for me, you need to decide how you'll be using the truck when not pushing snow. I also don't like buying used, especially a truck that someone possibly overworked, abused, flicked his snot all over, etc...

As to your question of 2500 vs 3500 I don't think it matters unless you intend to put a salter in the bed. 
As to the 6.0L, that's what I've got in my '15 Double Cab Long Bed and I always lost traction before I ran out of pushing power.


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## jerseydrew (Mar 6, 2010)

both will push snow. so the real questions are what will you use it for when not pushing snow, will you need the longer bed, which is newer with lower miles, which is the better deal, the 13 is likely to still be under the 5 year 100k powertrain warranty. also make sure the trucks have the VYU (plow prep) code on the options list. usually will see a roof beacon light switch or look in the glove box at the list of codes. maintenance records would be nice. basically figure out what you need then buy the better truck!

6.0 is a great motor but will suck down gas like no other!


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## thelettuceman (Nov 23, 2010)

jerseydrew;2002155 said:


> both will push snow. so the real questions are what will you use it for when not pushing snow, will you need the longer bed, which is newer with lower miles, which is the better deal, the 13 is likely to still be under the 5 year 100k powertrain warranty. also make sure the trucks have the VYU (plow prep) code on the options list. usually will see a roof beacon light switch or look in the glove box at the list of codes. maintenance records would be nice. basically figure out what you need then buy the better truck!
> 
> 6.0 is a great motor but will suck down gas like no other!


Exact advice that I would give. The Ford 6.2 might give the Chevy 6.0 some competition at the gas pump. My Ford loves fuel.


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## cet (Oct 2, 2004)

Buy the one that has the heavier front axle rating.


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## snowman55 (Nov 20, 2007)

3500's are now rated over 10,000# and will require you to follow Nat'l HOS rules.


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## ratherbfishin (Aug 1, 2011)

Strangely enough, I have one of both of the same you are looking at! 2013 3500WT dump body and a 2011 2500 SLE 8 ft body. Is the 3500 you are looking at DRW or SRW? If it is a DRW you can push a little bigger plow. Other than that and suspension, basically the same truck. Same motor, tranny,etc. 1 ton I believe has bigger brakes???
Great trucks for work and plowing. Like others said, they sure are thirsty. Bout the only bad thing about em!


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## Whiffyspark (Dec 23, 2009)

Brakes are the same until you get into a dually

There identical just 3500 can have heavier torsion bars.


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## ratherbfishin (Aug 1, 2011)

Whiffyspark;2002473 said:


> Brakes are the same until you get into a dually
> 
> There identical just 3500 can have heavier torsion bars.


Yup, 
What I thought. My 1 ton has DRW has big boys in the rear!


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## Cosmic Charlie (Feb 1, 2009)

Whiffyspark;2002473 said:


> Brakes are the same until you get into a dually
> 
> There identical just 3500 can have heavier torsion bars.


and the rear has a additional leaf spring in the stack


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## Pushin 2 Please (Dec 15, 2009)

SnoFarmer;2002091 said:


> Why not get a 2500 with a long-box a box?
> If you can't carry a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the tailgate closed why buy it?
> I just dont get the 6ft box....
> What is a 6ft box for? Hauling grocery's?


What if he don't want a long box? 
What if he don't need to carry a sheet of plywood?
You not getting a 6ft box wasn't his question. 
You'd need a lot of grocery's to fill a 6ft box.


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## jmac5058 (Sep 28, 2009)

Whiffyspark;2002473 said:


> Brakes are the same until you get into a dually
> 
> There identical just 3500 can have heavier torsion bars.


True but a 2500 can have heavier T bars than a 3500 . The trucks with plow prep get heavier ones it has nothing to do with 3500-2500. One helper spring in the rear leaf pack and a block between the rear end and leaf is the only change. .


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Pushin 2 Please;2002678 said:


> What if he don't want a long box?
> What if he don't need to carry a sheet of plywood?
> You not getting a 6ft box wasn't his question.
> You'd need a lot of grocery's to fill a 6ft box.


What if......
What if your post offered just a little help to the op.

Yea, a 6ft box is a joke...
and that is not just my opinion.

the only difference comes in when you option a diesel.
(P-to-P,he didn't give a power plant preference)
I'm not sure about Chev but the diesels usually get a bigger Diff/Axel than a gasser in the same class.


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

Just to stir the pot, why can't a short box truck haul a sheet of plywood? Is it criminal to rest it on the tailgate??? And have just over a foot overhang?


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

Just to use my own spoon.

Who said, you can't?

&

8'-6'=2'

With of tailgate? 2.5'?

Why would there be a foot overhang?

So no, it would not be a criminal offense that could require jail time to haul a 4x8' sheet of PLY in a 6ft box.
Even without the tailgate.pumpkin:


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## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

Last I checked they were 6.5 foot boxes


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

What does that change?
Ya still can't close the tailgate.
your limited on what will or can fit.

Jmo, As, I'm a long box guy.

Some guys always come up short.
sorry to hear it. (Not really.)

PS who said ya can't?
You said someone said that......


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## Rick547 (Oct 9, 2009)

Ziob34;2002085 said:


> Been a ford guys for a long time but have had so many problems and heard good things about the chevy and its 6.0 motor i'm leaning towards getting one. Have the option right now for a 2011 2500hd extended cab LT model standard 6.6' bbed with a plow and a 2013 3500hd work truck model regular cab 8 foot bed. both are 6.0 gas.
> 
> Is there a big difference where its worth getting the 3500 1 ton or are the drivetrains basically the same thing just extra suspension and springs.


Either one will work. It comes down to your preference and use.


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## Ziob34 (Oct 12, 2005)

i'm a regular cab 8' bed work truck kind of guy but was weighing options at trying to combine a work truck and a partial family vehicle if i have to bring the kids to school etc. Most of the time the truck would be used to tow a landscape trailer so i don't need an 8' bed and don't want it to long if i use it for backup plow truck. Have a mason dump and another work truck if i need to pick up anything.

Is it essential that the truck has the plow prep package on it or do you guys run them fine without that? Most of the trucks for sale around here don't have the package there just the work truck models.


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## GetMore (Mar 19, 2005)

GM lists some things that are added with the package, but not what other parts change. For instance, the cooling system is heavier duty, including a more aggressive fan clutch. If you have the towing package you probably have all those upgrades, except for the clutch. The clutch lowers the temp the fan activates at, which is important when you have a plow blade causing air to pull out through the radiator, instead of in. (The blade forces air under and over the truck, and blocks it from going to the radiator, actually causing a vacuum behind it that gets stronger the faster you go.)
Alternator and torsion bars are the main difference, but you can upgrade those easily, if you choose to do so. 
To be honest, if you are not loading the bed to max capacity, and you use ballast behind the rear wheels to counter the plow, and you only have yourself in the cab when plowing, you may be fine with the stock torsion bars on the shortbed.
The difference in dimension between a short and long bed is in front of the rear wheels. If you are filling the bed with rock, or a sander, or something else that evenly loads the entire bed, then the long bed will place more weight on the front tires for the same weight of cargo.
A longer cab does add weight to the front springs, but some of that weight is on the rear axle as well, even moreso with a short bed.

My 2013 ECSB finally rides nice when I have the plow up front and some weight in the back. The extra 400 lbs of spring rate makes the front ride that much harder. The nose barely drops when I lift the plow. It has the 5200 lb torsion bars. Now, since I have an 8' straight plow the weight is modest, and I think I could get away with one step lighter bars.

The main reason I would want the plow prep is for the warranty. Plow without it, and GM might deny powertrain coverage. There really doesn't seem to be anything that they include in the package that does anything for the powertrain, but that's how they all work.


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