# Fisher ez v problems



## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

Been trying to fix our fisher ez v on our 2010 Chevy 2500HD. Fish stik won't turn on and headlights won't switch over. Replaced the wire harness that goes to the coils dues to a broken wire. Had a local dealer test the 3 port isolation module and it tested "good". Messed with it some more then sent it to another dealer that looked over truck and plow and said it was the light harness on the truck side. We bought it and installed it and didn't fix our problem. We installed a new solenoid as well due to old one being corroded and cracked. Have 12 volts where tied into fuse box for power. But most places we tested for power in plow including where controller hooks up inside truck we only have 3.5 volts. Do we possibly in fact have a bad isolation module or bad circuit board in fish stik.. looking for ideas! We have even have a local dealer confused!!


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Where are you testing for power?

Where is the underdash wire tapped in, that have 12v ?


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

We tested for power at the motor and where the controller plugs in. And we tied in for power at one of the ignition fuses in the fuse box under the hood


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Make sure that's a 12v source.
What about the plow fuses? Those good


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

It's a 12v source, and all fuses check good


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Mechjustin21 said:


> It's a 12v source, and all fuses check good


Are there 12v at the fuses?
How's the grounds?


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

Since you do have 3.5 volts then you have a bad ground somewhere causing low continuity, or a bad connection/splice, half broken wire somewhere causing high resistance.


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

Grounds appear to be good but we haven't physically messed with them and I can't remember if we had 12 v to the fuses I can double check in a bit I'm driving the truck right now


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

How is your fuse box tapped?


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

It's one of those things. They can look good and be bad. If you check all splices and connections and all that is good then start removing ground leads and sand paper the contact areas to clean them. Did you us scotch locks for splices?


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## SnoFarmer (Oct 15, 2004)

ktfbgb said:


> How is your fuse box tapped?


You know you can take power right from the Batt?
i hate tapping into the fuse box widening the plug with the tap or wire leads to a loose socket.

how do you know your protecting anything with the fuse you taped into?
one side has power the other side is protected by the fuse.
so what side of the fuse did you tap into?

you can get a terminal strip and a fuse to use if ya dont like using the batt terminals.
this is why i like a batt with both top and side terminals.

key on.. ok,,, just turn it off as most controllers have a on off switch.


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## ktfbgb (Jan 31, 2016)

SnoFarmer said:


> You know you can take power right from the Batt?
> i hate tapping into the fuse box.
> you can get a terminal strip to use if ya dont like using the batt terminals.
> 
> ...


That was the point I was gonna make. Since I just did the tutorial in the Ram truck section about pulling the wiring out of the PDC and tapping into a switched power source the right way, or like you said grabbing straight from the battery.

Since he has power but voltage drop was trying to think areas with a bad connection causing resistance and a bare wire jammed under a fuse can do that.


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

I'm gonna check grounds and start cleaning them and fuse box is tapped with a connector that slides over the prong of the fuse. I have power through the wire but not full power everywheres else


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

Cleaned the main ground that is grounded on the firewall and the one on the motor and still nothing


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Main ground on firewall?


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

Yes whoever put the plow on the truck grounded the truck side stuff on the same stud on the firewall that one of the trucks ground straps is on


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

I'd change that to the battery for starters.

Have you checked for voltage at the fuses, and at the small pin on the solenoid?


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## zlssefi (Dec 29, 2011)

I have a 2001 minute mount one that i had the same problem last yr. ended up being a factory splice from fisher had corroded, inside the shrink tubing down along the radiator where the harness goes from one side to the other. Pull the harness right out and check for swollen spots in it. mine was swelled up about 3/8" larger than everything else.


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

I'll check it out, I'm open to ideas cause I'm just aggravated it this point


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Clean your connections. Then run direct battery power to controller. See if it works. If not start tracing the harness till you find the voltage drop.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Randall Ave said:


> Clean your connections. Then run direct battery power to controller. See if it works. If not start tracing the harness till you find the voltage drop.


What Randall said here. Since lights don't switch over I would check the bumper connection for the lights. This has a looped ground that tells module the plow is on the truck. This can effect both lights and control. You also said you replaced light harness, did you connect park and turn lights correctly, module needs signal from park lights to switch plow lights on. Are the truck lights turning off when plow is connected? You can try putting jumper cable from negative on plow to negative battery to see if ground cable is bad.


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## Mechjustin21 (Dec 23, 2016)

Yes everything was hooked up correctly. And the truck headlights stay on and the plow lights will not come on when the plow is hooked up to the truck


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