# Replaced ball joints, u-joint, etc PICS



## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

I rebuilt the passenger side of my axle today. I still need to do the drivers side. First time doing this so it took just about all day. I replaced the ball joints, u-joint and wheel bearing. I had to make a puller to get the bearing out. It's just a piece of thick square tubing with a nut welded on one side. Then I ran a large bolt through it. Then it was welded to two wheel studs. Worked great. Crude, but it worked. This job sucked, so I hope this helps somebody. I also have a huge Mac ball joint kit, so that made life a little easier today. All NAPA parts.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

Looks good, Snap On now makes a tool for us to do this job! Hard A** job for sure


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Snap On now makes a pull for this? I need one!!


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## killed300ex (Apr 29, 2004)

anyone have a part number Iv got to do both side of my dodge soon and that would make life much easier


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

Not for a 2nd gen. I have NAPA #'s for a 3rd gen.


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

Banksy;932190 said:


> Snap On now makes a pull for this? I need one!!


its a pretty simple tool. loosen the 4 bolts that hold your hub on a few turns and put the tool in and pry it out or use our power steering. the tool is pretty much a long solid socket and it pushes the hub out from the inside. they cost about 40 bucks.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

I tried that today. I used a socket and small extension. It wouldn't budge. I anti-siezed the $**t out of the new one so I'll never have that problem again with this truck.


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

This is what I put in my truck, wanted to do it once and never again!

http://www.thecarlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/components/upperballjoints.html

http://www.thecarlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/components/lowerballjoints.html


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## AiRhed (Dec 27, 2007)

The puller you made to get the BAD bearing out was a great idea for a BAD bearing. Had it been a good bearing though, you could have easily started to separate/spread the bearing and ruined it quick. At 250 a pop that is a real bummer and a lot of guys do it. A large slide hammer works pretty well if you leave the castle nut on at the correct torque. You'll need to replace the studs used to attach the slide hammer though.



> I tried that today. I used a socket and small extension. It wouldn't budge. I anti-siezed the $**t out of the new one so I'll never have that problem again with this truck.


By far the best method of removing those unit bearings without special equipment is from the back using the power steering as a force multiplier. I've used this three times now on my 1ton dually, twice on my uncles 1ton, and once on a random 1ton dually. The job on the 1ton trucks with the spacer and usually heavier use is slightly more work.

I don't see how, if done correctly, this wouldn't work on 95% of these trucks. There is the occasional corrosion on 5% of trucks that seems unmovable without the proper application of an acetylene torch.I use a socket and a long extension when they're stubborn, the extension I use is now bent perfectly to fit right where I want it. If the power steering is strong enough to bend a snap-on extension, it's plenty strong to push out your unit bearing.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

I should have clarified that this puller idea is intended for a bearing that is NOT going to be reused.

Those are nice ball joints, NASCAR. I should get a set of those and thrown them on the shelf. What does a set cost? I have 125,000 miles on my truck and it's over 6 years old. These original front end parts don't owe me anything.


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

see next post


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

The uppers were $550, The lowers I used are not Carli's but another brand that are just like them, I paid $110 for the pair of lowers. here's the link for the lowers http://www.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htm

Jay


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## AA+ Landscaping (Nov 12, 2008)

Nascar24;932481 said:


> This is what I put in my truck, wanted to do it once and never again!
> 
> http://www.thecarlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/components/upperballjoints.html
> 
> http://www.thecarlisuspension.com/dodge-ram/components/lowerballjoints.html


thanks for that web site:waving:


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

i bought these xrf ball joints for my dodge as a spare set, there greasable and were about 220.00 for both sides upper and lower. i guess well see how they hold up. i only got 32k out of my stockers.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

I know you plow with yours a lot more, but I got 125k out my stock joints.


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## 09dieselguy (Nov 18, 2007)

just a fyi you need to reuse those studs in the other bearing.


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## AiRhed (Dec 27, 2007)

> just a fyi you need to reuse those studs in the other bearing.


FYI A lot of guys will choose to install new studs in the new bearing.


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## Banksy (Aug 31, 2005)

09dieselguy;934970 said:


> just a fyi you need to reuse those studs in the other bearing.


I didn't see the sense of replacing the new studs already in the new bearing with the old studs. That's just me.


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