# 2500HD 6.0L oil change...



## mkwl

Well, I've decided to try and save myself some $$$ and do my own engine oil changes. My truck has the 6.0L V8 gas engine. I just wanted to see what filter you guys recommend (I was thinking Purolator), as well as how much oil I'll need for each change? Any advise on how to keep from making a huge mess when changing it?

Also- will I need a wrench to torque the filter in enough, or will hand tight do the trick?

Thanks!

Matt


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## 2COR517

For filter use WIX, or NAPA Gold, which is made by WIX. Usually tighten the filter about a turn after the gasket hits the base.


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## mkwl

Putolator's no good? I know that Fram is one to stay away from, but had heard mostly good things about Purolator...

Also- how's valvoline oil? Anyone have any experience with their "150K mile warranty"?


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## buckwheat_la

mkwl;1036979 said:


> Well, I've decided to try and save myself some $$$ and do my own engine oil changes. My truck has the 6.0L V8 gas engine. I just wanted to see what filter you guys recommend (I was thinking Purolator), as well as how much oil I'll need for each change? Any advise on how to keep from making a huge mess when changing it?
> 
> Also- will I need a wrench to torque the filter in enough, or will hand tight do the trick?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Matt


needed -oil filter wrench
-wix oil filter (all oil filters filter oil, some just do it better!!!)
-wrench for oil plug
-1/2 hour of time
-container to hold 5-6liters of oil (at least)

Steps- run truck for 10 min, then park (let sit for a minute or two) 
- crawl underneath with container and wrench for oil plug, undo plug and let drain for a couple minutes
-take oil filter wrench and undo filter, it well be full of oil so be prepared for that
-take new oil filter out of package, look at rubber seal to make sure it looks consistent (i know someone is going to give me flack about this, i have installed a filter that had a poor rubber seal, the clean up sucks)
-buy a good brand i like wix, fram is the cheapest one around.
-dip your finger in the old oil, run finger around rubber gasket of filter lightly coating it
-replace filter, and hand tighten, then give it a extra 1/4 turn (no more though, unless you want to have to destroy that filter getting it off the next time)
-put oil in until it shows on dipstick above the add line
-run truck for 2 minutes, the recheck dipstick, it should have went down (oil in filter) re fill to above add line
-drive and the next fill check to make sure oil level is still good.

My personal belief is that most conventional oils are pretty close to the same, they all have additives that make them better the others, some of these additives are gimmicks some are not. i personally just use a normal oil, and add amsoil additive.

I hope this helps you out


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## mkwl

buckwheat_la;1036984 said:


> needed -oil filter wrench
> -wix oil filter (all oil filters filter oil, some just do it better!!!)
> -wrench for oil plug
> -1/2 hour of time
> -container to hold 5-6liters of oil (at least)
> 
> Steps- run truck for 10 min, then park (let sit for a minute or two)
> - crawl underneath with container and wrench for oil plug, undo plug and let drain for a couple minutes
> -take oil filter wrench and undo filter, it well be full of oil so be prepared for that
> -take new oil filter out of package, look at rubber seal to make sure it looks consistent (i know someone is going to give me flack about this, i have installed a filter that had a poor rubber seal, the clean up sucks)
> -buy a good brand i like wix, fram is the cheapest one around.
> -dip your finger in the old oil, run finger around rubber gasket of filter lightly coating it
> -replace filter, and hand tighten, then give it a extra 1/4 turn (no more though, unless you want to have to destroy that filter getting it off the next time)
> -put oil in until it shows on dipstick above the add line
> -run truck for 2 minutes, the recheck dipstick, it should have went down (oil in filter) re fill to above add line
> -drive and the next fill check to make sure oil level is still good.
> 
> My personal belief is that most conventional oils are pretty close to the same, they all have additives that make them better the others, some of these additives are gimmicks some are not. i personally just use a normal oil, and add amsoil additive.
> 
> I hope this helps you out


Thank what kind of wrench do you recommend- strap wrench?

How many quarts will this engine typically take- 6?


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## buckwheat_la

strap wrench is ok, so is a actual oil filter wrench, both are cheap enough, we have a wrench made from a 3/4 inch square tube and a seat belt folded in a loop that is my personal choice. if you are going to be doing your own all the time, i would just buy a case of oil, i believe about 6liters on your truck, if you do it the way i described though, it won't matter, i have seen the same model engines fluctuate in the amount of liters they take, by about .5 liters


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## mkwl

Thanks for the info...

Also- I'm going to be changing the oil in my Bobcat mini-skidsteer this weekend... I see you have some diesel equipment in your sig- I've been told that 15W-40 is best to run in the diesel- has anyone used valvoline diesel oil before? Is it good?


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## buckwheat_la

not sure on the diesel oil, both my skids use 10w30, the best i could suggest is talk to your local equipment dealer, ask their opinions


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## 2COR517

Valvoline is very good oil. I have used it for years and years. I started using the synthetic blend Max-Life formula a few years ago. I just put Napa full Synthetic in my Tahoe last week. I didn't have any luck with Amsoil, so trying Napa this time.

I generally agree with Buckwheat's advice except for the running of the engine first. Idling the engine for ten minutes will never get the oil up to temp. If you go out in the morning, and the engine is cold, just drain it then. Otherwise, run it on the road for a good half hour or so, so the oil is nice and hot. Put it up on the ramps if you are going to use them, and shut it off. I like to wait an hour or so, to let the exhaust cool.

Good luck!


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## buckwheat_la

10-30min, muah, lets split the difference and say run it for 20 min, realistically, go for a drive, find a timhortons, get a coffee, go back to the shop, and do your oil change. 2cor517 is right however long you need to run it to make it nice and hot is good, then the 2 min sit time is for the oil to work its way back down into the pan


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## BoyneCityGuy

drain pan-the bigger the better
new filter
6 quarts of Valvoline
15mm wrench for the plug
strap wrench for the filter
funnel
half hour
rags
DONE!

i have run valvoline with no issues at all...so have my dad and grandpa forever...its good stuff.

i have had a couple 6 liters and i just buy a case of oil and 2 filters at once. good for 2 oil changes and you dont have to constantly run to the auto parts store!

have fun! its an easy way to save a little cash, and to get a good look at the bottom of your truck to make sure nothing is out of place.

also a good time to grease the front end components


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## deere615

yep 6 quarts 15mm wrench a strap filer wrench might want to have a bag of oil dry just in case. I have used fram and purolator. Penzoil regular and started usuing mobil1 synthetic in the HD. Also be sure to grease your front end when you do oil changes I always do. And yes like someone else mentioned dipping your finger in the oil and rubbing it around the seal of the new oil filter is a must something my dad taught me and i always do!


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## BigLou80

I don't know why everybody here needs an oil filter wrench. I have been changing my oil since I bought the truck and have never needed anything other then my hands to get the oil filter off, if its hot I use a rag.


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## mkwl

Thanks for the info guys- is there enough clearance to use a "pliers type" wrench on the filter? reason I ask is I need one of these for my Bobcat, and rather than buying 2 different wrenches, if I can use it on the truck as well, I'd might as well...

Thanks!


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## Clint S

Agreed on the Oil filter wrench the only time I ever have to use one is on the first oil change of a brand new vehicle and the 1 time I let a quick lube do it. Just remember on the 2500 the oil comes out of the hole and hits the hot exhaust pipe right behind the plug. I usually do mine cold and let it run out over a half hour or so while I am puttering around. If you change your oil frequently enough and have no sludge I feel it does not matter.


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## Newdude

I use either AC Delco fitlers or WIX. Depends on laziness lol

As for oil, Mobil Clean 5000 5w-30. (gm reccomends it...if it cant be found...10w-30 is acceptable)

Biggest tip: The drain plug is an inch or so...from the cross pipe from the left header. IT WILL GET MESSY!! Wipe it up unless you want to scare yourself thinking that you are burning oil. Oh, and if you have the skidplate, oil drips on that too. Dont double gasket the filter either or you will bathe your driveway.

6 quarts and a filter...bit of time and you'll be all set.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping

I always run Kendall synthetic blend 5w30 in my 6.0. Lately with the higher miles now, I am going to switch to 10w30. Been using a good bit of oil now. Slowed a good bit with the 10w30. I have always used AC Delco filters, PF46 is for the 6.0. 6 quarts is what they hold. Not sure if yours has it, but be sure to re-set the oil life monitor. Pretty sure it is press the gas pedal fully 3 times in 5 seconds with the ignition switch on, truck off. Or it could be 5 times in 3 seconds, lol. I just press mine a bunch and it works. There is just about enough room for a filter wrench, the one that goes on a ratchet. But I have always used my hand with no issue. Just keep some degreaser handy and spray off the exhaust pipe and skid plate, otherwise it will keep dripping and make a mess.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA

buckwheat_la;1036984 said:


> . i personally just use a normal oil, and add amsoil additive.
> 
> I'm wondering what additive you are adding?, since Amsoil doesn't make one.


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## Clint S

I think it is turn key to accessory and pump gas to floor 3 full times and it will say "oil life reset" on the display. I never go by the oil life monitor as 6 to 8 thousand on conventional oil is too long for me and that is what mine usually runs before it cones on.


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## Tbrothers

NICHOLS LANDSCA;1037319 said:


> buckwheat_la;1036984 said:
> 
> 
> 
> . i personally just use a normal oil, and add amsoil additive.
> 
> I'm wondering what additive you are adding?, since Amsoil doesn't make one.
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering the same thing.
Click to expand...


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## mcwlandscaping

You won't have a problem with this Matt! Get yourself a box of rubber gloves if you're going to be starting to do work on your truck more. Makes that part of the cleanup a breeze and getting greases and oils out of your hands can take awhile.


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## mkwl

mcwlandscaping;1037450 said:


> You won't have a problem with this Matt! Get yourself a box of rubber gloves if you're going to be starting to do work on your truck more. Makes that part of the cleanup a breeze and getting greases and oils out of your hands can take awhile.


Got it changed and lubed the chassis- so far so good- thanks guys!


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## buckwheat_la

mcwlandscaping;1037450 said:


> You won't have a problem with this Matt! Get yourself a box of rubber gloves if you're going to be starting to do work on your truck more. Makes that part of the cleanup a breeze and getting greases and oils out of your hands can take awhile.


rubber gloves, great for oil changes on trucks/equipment, and in a pinch prostate exams


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## REAPER

Also a good time to spray Fluid Film on door hinges, tailgate hinges and handle, hood springs and release cable, shock bushings, lock on the door and anything rubber or bushing under the front end.

Check brake fluid, Pwr str and WW fluid level. 

Look at serpentine belts for cracks and wear.

Take a hose and spray off front of radiator and trans cooler or A/C condenser to clean bugs and what not off.

Look at and maybe blow out air filter. 

Make sure wipers are in good shape.

Clean off battery terminals and apply some grease to prevent corrosion.


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## mayhem

buckwheat_la;1037847 said:


> rubber gloves, great for oil changes on trucks/equipment, and in a pinch prostate exams


I don't like hearing the words "pinch" and "prostate exam" in the same sentence.


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