# Pulling a trailer with salter on?



## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

Hi Everyone,

Anyone have some ideas or websites I can check out on finding a hitch setup which can be used for salting AND towing my small trailer?
My current setup is a Receiver mount salter (300 lbs.) and just bought a new 04 Rubicon w/plow. I need to be able to tow this unit around and be able to just take the trailer off at the job site while I plow with my truck.
I thought I saw a double mount receiver on the net some time back but haven't found it again.

Any help greatly appreciated!


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## TreffertLawnWrx (Apr 24, 2003)

1. Possibly get a swing away kit for your salter and put the ATV in the back of your truck?

2. Sell truck unit and get a salter for your ATV.


GO PACKERS!!!!!!!!!


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## landman (Dec 2, 2001)

Try a place thet sells RV supplies. They are usually sold at places like that because people have a bike carrier mounted in the top one and use the bottom one to trailer a car or something like that. my neighbor has one on his camper thats how I know.


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## Greensway (Nov 2, 2002)

I had a guy plow for me years ago that pulled a quad w/blade on his trailer.
He had a setup that he made himself for this.
He cut a receiver & welded a dropdown one to the end with a ball on it, pulled a 6x10 trailer.
Just made sure when he got to a property that he got the quad off 1st. then unhooked the trailer plowed, salted et.

It was something like this


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## GripTruk (Dec 1, 2003)

I'm confused...
WHAT are you towing around?
the rubicon? but you have a plow on both trucks?
I don't really understand what you are trying to accomplish here.

-Jer


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## andycanoes2 (Jan 18, 2004)

Hi, i'm a newbie posting but here goes.... Northern tool (notherntool.com) sell a double hitch reciever for about 50$usd. I'm not sure if it will have the weight capacity you are looking for but it hauls a bike rack with four bikes and a 1200 lb boat fine.

Great site!
andy:waving:


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*Problem Solved - Thank You.....*

Hay Everyone,

Lots of great ideas from everyone! 
I've went to hitchfinder.com and purchased a 4" HI/LOW receiver. I then purchased another receiver which will be welded onto the 4" HI/LOW. With the HI/LOW reversed so it's in the HIGH position, the other receiver will be welded at the bottom. Now my salter will sit above the trailer hitch at all times.

`````````````__Salter
Trk. Rec.-----/
````````````\----Hitch

When I get it completed and a day when it's all hooked up, I'll post a pic for everyone!

Thanks everyone! :waving:

Rich D.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

I'm Sure that you are aware, but

A class 3 hitch is only good for 500 lbs of tongue weight.
a class 4 hitch is good for 800 or 1000 ?? I think
class 5 ??? 1,2000


I will not ever try that, I don't care how light the trailer. The farther away the spreader and trailer (weight) from the factory hitch, the more pressure (tongue weight ) is on the hitch.

I have a class 5 and I will not even put spare tires in the front of my trailer a frames(for more than this 1 reason).

Spreader = 50lbs, salt 300lbs which is not a lot.= 350 lbs plus a trailer = maybe 150 lbs loaded if it is light. And that's not accounting for the extended hitch.

my opinion, Some thing to keep in mind.


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## GripTruk (Dec 1, 2003)

> _Originally posted by elite1 _
> *
> I have a class 5 and I will not even put spare tires in the front of my trailer a frames(for more than this 1 reason).
> 
> my opinion, Some thing to keep in mind. *


wait, are you saying you won't do this for weight purposes? Obviously you sound like you know what you are doing, so you would know you want the weight biased towards the front to avoid swaying, so I am a little confused as to the spare tire comment.

??
-Jer


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## Plow Meister (Oct 16, 2001)

1. The more weight you put on the hitch, the less weight you are taking off the front wheels. With a Jeep it would be a big issue but not with the blade out front.

2. The trailer hitch is only rated for 500#'s. After you put 400#'s of spreader and salt on it you want to pull a trailer with another 100 to 200#'s of tongue weight on it. With an extended reciever hitch, that extra 100 or 200#'s of weight is multiplied for every inch the ball is away from the truck. Kind of like holding your arm out horizontally and placing a 5 pound weight on your elbow. Now, place that same 5 pound weight in the palm of your hand. Same weight but it SEEMS heavier in the palm of your hand because it is farther away from your body. The same goes for your trailer hitch. You can effectively DOUBLE the tongue weight by making your hitch just 8" longer. Now, you will be effectively carrying the 400 pounds of salt & spreader AND another 200 - 400 pounds of tongue weight. That could add up to 800 pounds on the hitch, not within the guidelines of the hitch.


Consider this. Since the spreader only weighs 50 to 100#'s, put the spreader in the trailer and tow it to the site with all your other goodies. When you get to the site, un-hook the trailer and install the salter. Do your plowing and THEN fill it up with salt from the trailer and go spread it. More work but safer.


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*Class 4 Is What I Have*

I took my setup to a local racing shop who specialize on frame welding and engines. Other then doing some cutting of the parts I brought him, he said it should work fine.

He's going to weld the bottom receiver for the trailer to the 4" HI/LOW unit. The salter will sit only about 1" above the tongue of the trailer, just enough for me to attach it with the lock lever up. The salter will sit about 3-4 inches farther away from the truck then it usually does.

I would certainly not try this with a 700 lb. salter and I'm only pulling a small 1 place trailer with a 600 lb. ATV on it. I'm sure I can manage to keep the tongue weight at a min. with the placement of the ATV. Also, the salter will never have a full load of salt in it during transitions between jobs so everything should be just fine. If I pull 8-10K of trailer and equipment in the summer with 500 lbs. and sometimes more, I don't think I'll have any problems with this dinky setup.

I will post a pic when it's completed and then keep everyone updated as to how well it works..... Successful or not....... Give a week or two and I'll get some pics up.


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## Plow Meister (Oct 16, 2001)

Just don't forget, the hitch rating is only 1/2 your battle. I have been building and racing customized Jeeps for over 10 years. Your rubicon is a great Jeep. Don't get me wrong. The way the frames are made on TJ's (the frame & body stye you have) consist of a box style channel that is bent in certain places for axle humps and such. Where those bends are, the manufacturer is required to encorporate "crumple zones" in the frame. This is where they drill strategically placed holes in the frame, thus weakening the frame in that spot. You may have a class 4 hitch and it may have been installed by the dealer, but just be careful the in the way you utilize it. You COULD put a Titan class V on your Jeep. That doesn't mean the frame will hold up.

All in all, I am sure you will be more than fine in your setup. I am just informing you of the backlash that COULD occur.

Do us all a favor and take some pics. I would like to see it when it is done.


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*Pulling an ATV - NOT JEEP*

Hay guys,

Not sure if your following me but I'm pulling an Honda Rubicon ATV with my Ford 03' F-250 on a single axle trailer. Not pulling a ATV with a Jeep Rubicon with a salter on the back.....

I hope my pics I put up explains it all............

Again, thanks for all your inputs on this!

:salute:


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

I have a 24 foot race trailer. 10,000 axels, My set up is big and heavy, but it still applies to small units.

Yes you do want to load your trailer toward the front to avoid sway. You only should load your trailer 60% front 40 % rear. Try to keep most of your weight over the axels.

A 500 lb sitting 1 foot in front of the axel, the hitch on the trailer is about 14 feet away, so it only puts 25 # (estimated) on the tonge of the truck. Well, my trailer has a 400 lb tonge weight empty. We norrmally keep around 4000 # in it. So the tonge weight adds up very fast.

If I put the spare tire on the frame thats like puting a dirrect 70# on the tonge. We keep them on the inside of the trailer, bolted to the wall of the axel. Helps prevent theft, and keeps them nice.

I know all the calculations for this, I just don't feel like doing the math.

Plow Meister explainded the extended hitch thery very, well.

I would have a guy or 2 help with this. hook the trailer up to the hitch, and spreader with out the jeep, Every thing envolved in your set up. Put 6 bags of salt on the frame of your trailer. Use the bathroom scale set up th measure the estimated tonge weight. 

Good luck, hope it works.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

ok, well the truck is better, But the hitch weight my still be a probem. Why not mount the spreader higher up in the bed of the truck? I bolted a 2x8 to the bed of the truck, Mounted a receiver tube to the 2x8. No other modifications needed I could still close my tail gate. Used that because of a rear plow set-up. The spreader is farthen in towards the truck, which is good., and easier to load.


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## Plow Meister (Oct 16, 2001)

Probably because it is a brand new $28,000 Jeep and not a pick-up. He probably needs what little trunk space he has for shovels and tools and repair kits.


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## Boast Enterpris (Oct 26, 2003)

IDEALGREEN, I'm with you. I have a Western 1000 spreader set up with a receiver mount. All I did was weld 1 1/4"diameter 3/8" wall square tubing about 13" long to the Western mount directly in line with the piece that goes into your truck receiver and braced it with a piece a 1/2" thick X 4" wide flat iron running at an angle from the mounting plate above tubing. (I wish I had some pictures) This seems to work fine for towing my 5'X12' single axel trailer with my 400 arctic cat on it. I probably woulndn't want to pull a double axel car hauler trailer with this, but it works fine for what I do around town. Just like you said I don't transport with the spreader full. I think you are on the right track. If I can make this work with the Western that holds 600lbs then you can make it work with your spreader. If it snows again this season then I'll try to get some pictures of my equipment posted.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

I will have to see that set up, So is the trailer ball 13 inches away from the truck. Remember the weight multiplies the fare out you go. I am confident that my hitch would safely hold 2000 lbs, but I would be over it's limit. 

Hold a hammer on top of a nail, nothing happens. swing the hammer, the nail goes in. The same thing is happening to your hitch as you hit bumps in the road.

It is not very fun having hitches break, I have had that happen (not my truck- bad hitch)

Do you really want to try that when you down have the time for the break down, in a snow storm?

I still don't think I would try that.


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*Elite1*

 Like the idea of mounting it off the back of my bed!! If this doesn't pan out, I'll seriously think about that method. The only down side of that would be drilling through my new truck to mount the setup in the bed. The tailgate would pop off easy so overall it's a pretty good idea! I wouldn't have to mess around with receivers at all.

O'well, it's a work truck anyway....... If I have to go that route, it shall be done.

I see your point about extending the hitch out. I should have just purchased a tailgate spreader to begin with. I'm not one to push my luck and if this setup seems cheesy, It won't stay on my truck.

>>>>>>>---------------------------Boast Enterpris--------------------------<<<<<<<
YES, Please post pics if you find the snow and the moment. Thanks again for all the posts, I guess the pics will tell a thousand words once we get them up.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2003 F-250 Super FX4
8'2" Boss Vee
Curtis 400 lb. 2000 Fast Cast Salter
2004 Honda Rubicon W/ Cycle Country State Plow
AND 10,000 lbs. of Morton Rock Salt sitting in my garage! ARRRRG!


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

The holes that I used were ones made for a dump insert, so think about that if you are going to mount it to your bed. I off-set it for that reason. But it worked better than i thought it would. The 2x8 runs 6 ft lenght wise on the bed.

The spreader I have is tall and narrow. I can see better out of the back with the tailgate off, and also gives you access to the bed, for a snow blower. Stack the salt bags on top of the 2x8, so they stay off the bed (helps keep them Dry), You can still get all your snow blowers, hand salters out from the right side.

leave the 2x8 in the truck bed all winter. just make sure to drill your holes in the frame, and paint them. I put all the mounting hardware on the inside of the bed, when you are done for the day, spreader off, tail gate on.


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## GripTruk (Dec 1, 2003)

*Re: Pulling an ATV - NOT JEEP*



> _Originally posted by IDEALGREEN _
> *Hay guys,
> 
> Not sure if your following me but I'm pulling an Honda Rubicon ATV with my Ford 03' F-250 on a single axle trailer. Not pulling a ATV with a Jeep Rubicon with a salter on the back.....
> ...


Finally!!!
I can see so much more clearly now!
The smoke has cleared and everything makes so much more sense 

now, if only everyone else would read this post and stop going by the assumption that you are pulling 10,000 pounds with a Jeep


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

I know what is pulling what. The weight problem still stands. Maybe as a last resort, I might, maybe consider this option, but 3 or 4 other good options have been posted as well, that would not have a weight problem.

Again, what would you do if that hitch broke? Do you have another vehicle that can pull as a back up? How much time is it going to cost you, 1,2,3 hrs? Do you really have that type of spare time, when you are supposed to be plowing? 

If you have a factory hitch I would replace it. The factory hitches are terrible. Ford, Dodge, and Chevy. All you need to do is call your local hitch installer, and ask how many they replace that break.

I had that happen, damaged the truck, 3 guys standing around, getting paid, weighting for another truck.

I was lucky that it wasn't my truck or $$$.


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*PICTURES ARE IN....*

OK FOLKS - HERE'S MY SETUP!


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*MORE PICS*

Wide Angle View.......... Everything is detachable, I didn't throw in the pin on the hitch for the pics...


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*Truck / ATV*

Here is the ATV I'll be pulling on the 5X8 trailer. I want to get the 100 lb. salter you can attach to the rear next year. Toys and more toys.... OK everyone, pile the feedback on............

We have a storm headed our way so off to get my sleep while I can!


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## Plow Meister (Oct 16, 2001)

That looks like it will work very well for you. Good job. Don't forget to empty the spreader before you hit the highway. Lotta weight back there.


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

Looks like a nice set up. Might want to be careful pulling the trailer on turns and up/down hills.

I like the looks of that atv. Is the blade man, or electric? Does it work well? I have a property that I could use that on, was going to buy a tractor but that may be a better summer time toy.


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*ATV*

Elite1,

I purchased the ATV for more then one reason. I use it to deliver salt to customers which have multiple storage areas and underground parking. I'll throw it in the trailer with a salt order and then use it to haul bags around a property.

Recently I acquired plow accounts which my truck is just too big for; 3 residential and 1 commercial account to be exact. Other then it being a straight blade and the fact that you have to get off to angle it, overall it's one slick machine when used for the "proper" job! I wouldn't use it on too big of a lot, it will waste your time fast. Works great on sidewalks!!!

I have the manual kit on it but my friend has a 2001 Honda Rubicon with a winch on his. If you have $300 - $400 for the winch, go for it. Otherwise the Manual works just fine, your only pulling about 15 lbs. of weight or so. The man. kit has a mechanism in it like a cantilever which makes pulling it up fairly easy. I can pop the plow off in about 35 - 40 sec. and 60 sec. or so to hook it up.

The reason I went with a Honda Rubicon is because a friend has used one for the past 4 years and loves it. Anytime you get 8 - 12" of snow, you just throw it in "L" and she pushes it like nothing. The Rubicon's have the Hydrostatic drive system and take 5.2 quarts of oil to change! You get about half a dozen ways to shift the things so you never run out of options for conditions.

Anyway, I could talk all night about it - If you have accounts and can make a dollar with it - I'd buy one. You can do so many things with these now with all the attachments out there. The plow I have is a Cycle Country "State plow 52". I liked the quality of this over other brands.

Thanks for the feedback!:waving:


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## elite1 (Dec 30, 2003)

My account has about 6,000 linear feet of sidewalk that is plow-able, and 2,000 more that should be done by hand with blowers. Most of the walks are 5 feet wide. There are also another 4,000 feet that is not in the contact that they have us do from time to time. I was going to buy a Deere 425 all wheel steer.- hydro. blade, cab, heat all the toys- big $$$$$. I have experience with that unit and love it.


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## IDEALGREEN (Feb 13, 2001)

*425's Are Great!*

Sounds like either would work for you. I used a JD 400 several times for backup while my F735 was in the shop. Other then not being able to get around trees as well, I liked that thing more then my F735. Now if it had "All Wheel" steering, the 425 is one of the best commercial machines JD has produced.

You can also put an enclosed cabin on these ATV's and the engine heat I guess keeps it pretty warm.

We have a Winter storm warning for our area now! You must be getting hit too by this system. I have so much crap to do yet and were set to get 6" - 10"!!! Talk more next week - Have to try and get rid of all the darn salt I purchased in Oct. 03!!!


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