# 1/2 ton to 1 ton conversion



## comarmot (Dec 10, 2001)

Two things... has anyone ever done this? I am converting a 1/2 ton 86' suburban to a one ton. I have a dana 60 for the rear, and I am looking for a dana44 for the front. If anyone has any suggestions and/or knows where to find a cheap 44 it would be greatly appreciated. I heard I have to be careful of "unsprung weight"?

Thanks all.


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

Seems to me there might be more to that upgrade than just swapping axles. Especially in light that you have a corporate front axle that is the equal of a Dana 44.


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## comarmot (Dec 10, 2001)

Well I can appreciate that Alan, any suggestions on what I should look for instead?


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

If you're looking for a real 1-ton truck when you're done, you'll need another Dana 60 steer axle up front. Much beefier unit than the corporate/44.

Also, 1/2-ton frames aren't as robust as 1-ton frames on those GM trucks, so if a true 1-ton truck is what you're after hanging the heavy axles off a 1/2 ton frame seems a bit self-defeating.

The 60 rear/44 front with 8-lug wheels will result in what's basically a 3/4-ton unit, which is probably strong enough IMO.

My experience has been that you're probably better off looking for axles as "mates" that came off the same truck - that way you know the gear ratios match. Plus I've always had better luck and got a lot more for my $$$ buying and scrapping a whole truck than one specific part.

I've never really thought about a Suburban 1-ton upgrade, but I wonder if the best approach would be to swap the 'burban body onto a 1-ton frame if a true "tonner" is what you're after. Catch there is 1-ton 4x4's aren't super common, at least not in my area. And, the ones with single wheels in back (as opposed to duallies) are even more hard to find.


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## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

IMO,the best way to get a suburban 1 ton,is to start with a 3/4 ton at least,this way you get the 4l80Hd trans,or TH400,and the HD engine,and cooling system.Also the frame is beefier,especially by the spring mounts.Id plan on xhecking into the master cylinder/proportioning valve too,you should get these off the donor truck as well,the bigger wheel cylinders/calipers will react differently,and need a larger amount of fluid than most 1/2 ton units can provide.


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## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Not sure if this was the case in the later '80's John, but I know that the 1980 3/4 ton 4x4 my friend had appears to have the same style frame as the 1/2-tons, while the 1-ton is different (stronger) - for example, the frame is "kinked" (for lack of a better term) to clear the shocks on the 3/4, while the 1-ton has a separate bracket riveted in place to hold the shock - no "dimple" in the frame.

Wondering if they "cheaped out" as the '80s wore on to keep the trucks lighter.


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## MTCK (Feb 13, 2000)

Cmarmot-
What are you gunna use the rig for? If you give us a little more insight, I think we could answer your question a lot better.

Marcus


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## Power mad (Oct 21, 2000)

I just did a 3/4 ton swap on my 78 Blazer.
I used a 14FF and a D44 8 lug front .
If you get a 14 bolt from a 3/4 ton it will bolt right in.
On mine I had to mow the shock mounts off and relocte them,
But that was it. I used Napa's u-joint #348.
There are two different u-joints that can be used. If the cap is 1 1/16" diameter then it will take the 348 if it is 1 1/8 it will take the 447.
I bought some 15x10 4 1/8" backspacing, wheels from 4wpw.
I had to do a little grinding to the calipers and backing plates but all in all it was a fairly easy swap.
I did it outside in the gravel by myself and it took me 2 days.
Now I just need to whack off that lip on the 14bolt and that will gain about an inch of clearance.


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