# No power to fisher mm2 plow



## fordf350super (Oct 20, 2009)

HI I HAVE A 2003 FORD F350 WITH A 8' FISHER PLOW MM2 STRAIGHT BLADE MY PROBLEM STARTED LAST WEEK WHEN I TOOK THE PLOW OUT OF STORAGE AND HOOKED IT UP TO MY TRUCK THE PLOW DID NOT RAISE WHEN I PRESSED UP ON MY FISHER "FISH STICK"
BUT, THE RED LIGHT WAS ON. THEN I I CHECKED UNDER MY HOOD WHEN EVER I PRESSED ONE OF THE BUTTONS I CHECKED WITH A VOLT METER TO SEE IF POWER WAS COMING OUT.I CHECKED WHERE THE PLUG FROM THE PLOW PLUGS INTO WHILE SOMEONE APPLIED POWER TO THE FISH STICK AND NO VOLTAGE WAS COMING SO I TRACED IT TO A White Rodgers DC relay POWER WAS GOING INTO THE RELAY BUT NO VOLTAGE CAME OUT SO THINKING THAT WAS THE PROBLEM I BOUGHT A NEW ONE TODAY AND HOOKED IT UP AND I CONTINUE TO HAVE NO POWER TO MY PLOW 
DO YOU KNOW WHATS WRONG AND HOW TO FIX IT?
IF SO THANKS A BUNCH


----------



## equip guy (Nov 25, 2010)

does the plow move any other positions/


----------



## fordf350super (Oct 20, 2009)

no does not move at all


----------



## equip guy (Nov 25, 2010)

Plows when they sit develop poor connections in several areas, first check all your grounds that come from the s-1, s-2. s-3, coils, even if you have to unbolt the bolt, sand, and remount, ck the power, and grounds at the truck side, under the hood, your plow only grounds it self when mated to the frame., you can have power at the coils, but with poor connections even at the grille, you'll have problems., check these thoroughly and let me know if you haven;t done so already.


----------



## cubicinches (Oct 19, 2008)

equip guy;1127334 said:


> your plow only grounds it self when mated to the frame.


You're sure about that?


----------



## cubicinches (Oct 19, 2008)

A test light is your best friend. If you've got power to the battery relay under the hood, at the hot side coming from the battery, use a test light to check the other large terminal while somone activates the control (up, left, or right) If you've got no power coming out to the plow motor when the control is activated, check for power at one or the other of the small terminals on the relay while activating the control (up, left, or right). If you've got nothing there, then you've got a control or control harness issue. I'd start there based on what testing you've already done.


----------



## equip guy (Nov 25, 2010)

well to be exact it does help since the coils are mounted to the head gear, and the ground wire from the truck goes through the plug and to the mount bolt on the head gear, when the main frame is secured to the truck it enhances the ground system to make one system., thats not to say the plow won't work if not hitched in, but when making sure all connections are good this certainly helps eliminate over looked inexpensive troubleshooting.


----------



## equip guy (Nov 25, 2010)

Cubic inches makes a good point, the test light procedure is simple and will help narrow it down., Just keep in mind that if the plow worked fine when you parked it last season, and you store the blade out in the elements, and your harness plug has debris in it, it is a good chance that this is a good place to start. Stranger things have happened, but something to look at.


----------



## cubicinches (Oct 19, 2008)

equip guy;1127347 said:


> well to be exact it does help since the coils are mounted to the head gear, and the ground wire from the truck goes through the plug and to the mount bolt on the head gear, when the main frame is secured to the truck it enhances the ground system to make one system., thats not to say the plow won't work if not hitched in, but when making sure all connections are good this certainly helps eliminate over looked inexpensive troubleshooting.


The coils are grounded through the plow side control harness, which is grounded to the plow motor, which is grounded to the truck by the battery cables, of which the truck side battery cable is grounded to the battery or engine.

Just sayin...


----------



## no lead (Dec 10, 2008)

actually jumper cables are your best friend. hook them to the battery and then put power and ground to the plow motor. if it runs you have solenoid/relay issues. using the cables put power to the motor relay on the battery side and hit the control. if it runs you have a bad connection at the battery. hook the cable to the motor side of the relay. the motor should run. if not you have a bad connection between the relay and the plow motor. 

good luck.


----------



## fordf350super (Oct 20, 2009)

no lead;1127544 said:


> actually jumper cables are your best friend. hook them to the battery and then put power and ground to the plow motor. if it runs you have solenoid/relay issues. using the cables put power to the motor relay on the battery side and hit the control. if it runs you have a bad connection at the battery. hook the cable to the motor side of the relay. the motor should run. if not you have a bad connection between the relay and the plow motor.
> 
> good luck.


 i tried this idea and it sparked and got red hot and the plow did not move or anything any other suggestions on what the problem could be.
i already checked the relay with a voltmeter and 12vs goes into it and when i press the button 12v does not come out but its a brand new relay so could it be the motor?
thanks


----------



## no lead (Dec 10, 2008)

did you hook the cables right to the motor?


----------



## fordf350super (Oct 20, 2009)

I think we determined what the problem was. we believe the motor is frozen stuck because when we tried it yesterday the solenoid put out 12 amps of current to the motor and the motor did nothing but draw a lot of power out of it until the solenoid got fried again so i ordered a new solenoid and motor and we will see where we go from there hopefully this will solve the problem. My question is, is it possible to have someone rebuild the motor as a back up? and how much would that cost
thanks


----------



## cubicinches (Oct 19, 2008)

fordf350super;1135165 said:


> I think we determined what the problem was. we believe the motor is frozen stuck because when we tried it yesterday the solenoid put out 12 amps of current to the motor and the motor did nothing but draw a lot of power out of it until the solenoid got fried again so i ordered a new solenoid and motor and we will see where we go from there hopefully this will solve the problem. My question is, is it possible to have someone rebuild the motor as a back up? and how much would that cost
> thanks


A motor is a little over $100.00. I'd just put a new one on there.


----------



## fordf350super (Oct 20, 2009)

yeah your probably right i already bought one just wondering what it what cost to have a spare one


----------



## peterzereski (Dec 27, 2010)

did a new motor fix this?


----------



## sledhead 34 (Nov 10, 2019)

WHAT HAPPENED IVE GOT AN ISSUE WITH THE CONTROLLER GETTING HOT AND PUMP MOTOR IS RUNNING BUT NOTHING WORKING SLIGHT LIFT .LOOSING MY MIND HAVE TWO EZ V 4 MODULE FISH STICKS AND BOTH ARE JUNK SO FAR HAD ONE WORKING FOR 3 DAYS THEN IS QUIT


----------



## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

sledhead 34 said:


> WHAT HAPPENED IVE GOT AN ISSUE WITH THE CONTROLLER GETTING HOT AND PUMP MOTOR IS RUNNING BUT NOTHING WORKING SLIGHT LIFT .LOOSING MY MIND HAVE TWO EZ V 4 MODULE FISH STICKS AND BOTH ARE JUNK SO FAR HAD ONE WORKING FOR 3 DAYS THEN IS QUIT


YOUR CONTROL IS BAD


----------



## sledhead 34 (Nov 10, 2019)

cwren2472 said:


> YOUR CONTROL IS BAD


have seen this issue before is it common hell that means ive got 2 bad controllers


----------



## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

sledhead 34 said:


> have seen this issue before is it common hell that means ive got 2 bad controllers


Yes, the EZV controllers fail a lot. It could also be that you have a bad harness burning them out


----------



## sledhead 34 (Nov 10, 2019)

**** what i was afraid of some said u cant cut the controller side of harness and still make it work i find that very weird but it looks like previous owners did at one point ,has anyone heard of this


----------



## sledhead 34 (Nov 10, 2019)

actually what it was ,was the previous owner had to thick of hyd oil in there i drained it all and refilled with syn trans and it worked they also had a line wrong for a wing a bad lift ram had spares and its up and running again it pays to just go thru **** on your own also found out a local dealer wanted to scam me with saying my controller was bad which it wasnt


----------

