# Snowbear winch crapped out



## 00 Ram

after 2 seasons?

Went out to get ready for the recent little storm, and found that I couldn't lift the plow. Motor wouldn't run. Testing showed 12v at the motor contacts, so its not a connection issue. So I took it off, brought it in the house...fussed with it a little...remembered the emergency crank handle that came with the plow. So I used that to rotate the spool back and forth a bit, and when I connected it to a battery, it worked! or so I thought...

So thismorning, I went out to actually plow the snow...hooked up the winch, started it up to lift the plow. Motor runs, spool turns, until it gets a load on it, then stops turning. (motor will keep running). just a "click click click" on the spool, like a gear tooth is missing, or something. manual crank won't move it, either...I can just feel the "click click click". 

So I have an email in to Superwinch support. (nothing back from them, yet.). But I'm thinking that I'm probably going to need a replacement. Snowbear has a replacement winch on their site for $300 bucks. seems kind of steep. You can find other similar superwinch models for less...wondering if there's any reason NOT to just get another off-the-shelf winch (as long as the mounting holes match up...most "superwinches" are the same)...even another brand. The plow only weighs a few hundred pounds, at best...smallest winches are 1500/2000lbs. 
I'm thinking perhaps if I can get the original fixed for a reasonable amount, I should do that, too, and have a spare. 

thoughts?


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## KGRlandscapeing

if u were closer i have a snowbear my couzin shoved in to the back of some ladys car this summer 2 days after i moved it from my 05 to his 06 ranger. id hook u up with it cheap


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## cjcocn

Look closely at the origin of your winch strap. There should be (IIRC) two sets of 9/16" nuts and bolts that hold a formed metal plate onto your spool.

Those will come loose and, while your motor will turn, those formed metal plates will slip on the spool, resulting in the clicking sounds that you are hearing.

Try tightening those two bolts and see if that doesn't clear up your problem.

HTH


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## Tractor Plower

I agree with cj, I had the same problem with my plow on my first heavy event with it. 
-Mike


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## 00 Ram

damn! I wish I had checked the site before I left for work thismorning.

I did find a "troubleshooting" page on one of snowbear's websites, and it mentioned that, but I wasn't sure just what they were talking about.

_a) If the drum is rotating but not the collar, simply tighten up the four nuts on the winch drum collar to stop the slipping._

ok. what's a "drum"? collar? need diagrams!

I looked it over quickly thismorning, and couldn't figure out what they meant. You guys described it better. "near where the strap connects". ok, I can find that. I didn't notice them before, when I removed the strap from its u-bolt so I could take the motor inside, but I wasn't looking for them, then. I'll check tonight.

meanwhile:
my other question: is there any reason why "any old winch" wouldn't work, if I do wind up needing a replacement?


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## cjcocn

00 Ram;445670 said:


> damn! I wish I had checked the site before I left for work thismorning.
> 
> I did find a "troubleshooting" page on one of snowbear's websites, and it mentioned that, but I wasn't sure just what they were talking about.
> 
> _a) If the drum is rotating but not the collar, simply tighten up the four nuts on the winch drum collar to stop the slipping._
> 
> ok. what's a "drum"? collar? need diagrams!
> 
> I looked it over quickly thismorning, and couldn't figure out what they meant. You guys described it better. "near where the strap connects". ok, I can find that. I didn't notice them before, when I removed the strap from its u-bolt so I could take the motor inside, but I wasn't looking for them, then. I'll check tonight.
> 
> meanwhile:
> my other question: is there any reason why "any old winch" wouldn't work, if I do wind up needing a replacement?


As long as you can get the wiring to work, you should be able to use just about any winch that runs with the same power outputs/draws. As a matter of fact, I seem to recall a few earlier threads that discussed other members using alternative winches and having zero problems.

The only thing that you may have to do is fabricate a mounting plate or drill new holes to get the winch to mount up.

Let us know how you make out!


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## 00 Ram

cjcocn;445679 said:


> As long as you can get the wiring to work, you should be able to use just about any winch that runs with the same power outputs/draws. As a matter of fact, I seem to recall a few earlier threads that discussed other members using alternative winches and having zero problems.
> 
> The only thing that you may have to do is fabricate a mounting plate or drill new holes to get the winch to mount up.
> 
> Let us know how you make out!


I was thinking, it would be nice to fabricate some sort of "quick release" for it, so it can easily be brought inside, out of the weather, when its not being used. Leaving it outside in the weather is probably the source of my problem. attaching/detaching with those locknuts is a bit tedious. At least, cover it with a plastic bag or something from now on. 
I'll definately report back.


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## cjcocn

00 Ram;445688 said:


> I was thinking, it would be nice to fabricate some sort of "quick release" for it, so it can easily be brought inside, out of the weather, when its not being used. Leaving it outside in the weather is probably the source of my problem. attaching/detaching with those locknuts is a bit tedious. At least, cover it with a plastic bag or something from now on.
> I'll definately report back.


If you want to fabricate a quick release, you will probably have to add a mounting plate in between the winch and its current mounting area. IIRC, unbolting the winch will compromise the integrity of the frame (as the winch actually bolts to two separate pieces of the frame).

You would have to mount a permanent plate to hold the frame together.

Then you would have to determine the best quick release method to employ.

... thinking out loud here .....

i) would it be possible to weld two hooks onto the winch so that they would grab the frame-side mounting plate and reduce the number of pins required?

ii) is it better to just drill everything out and use some larger pins to hold the winch on? The pins would have to be drilled out to accept the containment device right at the mounting plate so that there was no play (which would lead to premature failure of the set-up).

iii) can you weld (strong, real strong) top and bottom tabs on the mounting plate so that the winch just slides in? then you would just need a pin to keep it from moving side to side.

iv) .... lol .... there is probably a company that makes something like this already so I'll just shut up and wait for someone to post up the current (and proven) alternatives


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## 00 Ram

cjcocn;445699 said:


> If you want to fabricate a quick release, you will probably have to add a mounting plate in between the winch and its current mounting area. IIRC, unbolting the winch will compromise the integrity of the frame (as the winch actually bolts to two separate pieces of the frame).
> 
> You would have to mount a permanent plate to hold the frame together.


no, not really. the winch bolts "through" 2 pieces of the frame; not "to" them. I'm sure they've changed the design over the years, but if you want to look at the assembly manual, I found it online here: http://www.snowbear.com/siteassets/Link/manuals/2007PlowManual_Eng.pdf
step 3 and step 7 show how/where the winch attaches. This "joint" in the framing stays together whether the winch is attached, or not. although, certainly, that heavy plate steel that is the winch mounting plate would certainly add strength when everything is assembled and tightened. Its kind of a moot point, because when the winch is removed, I'm not using the plow, anyway, so no stress is being put on anything. its just sitting there.

But otherwise...yes, interesting exercise.

anyway, I got a call from a tech at Superwinch a couple of hours ago. He gave me the part number for the broken gear, if that's what it turns out to be...but also concurred that it is probably just the collar thingy that needs to be tightened. One thing I don't think I mentioned before is that when I was fussing with things after re-mounting the winch, I tried turning it again with the hand crank. Then I went to try the switch again, without taking the crank out of its place...it spun around like an airplane propeller. (good thing my hand wasn't in the way...or that the thing didn't get flung out of there and bonk something. like my head. ). This indicates that there isn't any broken internal gearing, and that its just a loose "collar".

you know, it just dawned on me...when I re-attached the strap, (via a u-bolt), I wasn't really carefull about tightening both nuts evenly. (its a tight space...kind of a pain to get a socket wrench onto). I'm thinking now that this is the piece thats actually putting the "squeeze" on the shaft, and this is where its slipping.  :insert-dunce-smiley-here: I guess in my mind, I was thinking that it was just a "hangar" for the strap, and nothing more. 
We shall see...


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## 00 Ram

Yeah, that was it. Just finished up. Just as I suspected, it was the u-bolt/strap holder...which is also a "collar/spool holder onto the shaft-er". user error: ID one-zero tango. (ID10T)

I think IQ must go down in direct proportion to the wind-chill. 

anyway...thanks for the help!

Oh, and fwiw: snowbear did great cleaning up 2-day old icy, packed, re-frozen wet snow. good thing there wasn't a whole lot of it.


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## EPS

I have a 88" snowbear due in anyday now thats going on my 04 chevy trailblazer. Will I need the light kit or is it small enough that when I lift the blade it wont interfer with the trucks headlights?


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## KGRlandscapeing

EPS;447528 said:


> I have a 88" snowbear due in anyday now thats going on my 04 chevy trailblazer. Will I need the light kit or is it small enough that when I lift the blade it wont interfer with the trucks headlights?


the light kit costs a bunch for just to lights on poles. but they sure r bright. they say for off road use only ur plow shouldnt block all of ur head lights but better safe then sorry


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## EPS

Thanks kgr I will try it with out the lights and see how it goes. How good is this plow will it hold up to do about 33 driveways this winter?


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## PhantomRacer

the light kit is expensive for what they are, but they are worth it for a bolt in solution. I changed the heads to real plow head lights, made a huge difference.

The 'off road' lights will not work on the road, they are more of a spread beam, instead of a headlight. 

The plow completely covered my headlights.


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## cjcocn

EPS;447554 said:


> Thanks kgr I will try it with out the lights and see how it goes. How good is this plow will it hold up to do about 33 driveways this winter?


It will hold up for the winter if you plan early for the plowing that you will do later on. In other words, push your piles back far enough during your initial plowings because your plow will not want to move snow piles that have re-crystalized and hardened. By pushing them back early on in the winter, you will still have room to push snow later on in the season.

If you are doing 33 driveways in one run, you should also plan out your individual pushes so that you do not have to keep getting out of your truck and angling the blade. While it is not a huge deal to get out and change the angle of the blade, it does add time to your schedule.

Your plow will back blade some, but don't expect to see pavement after you have back bladed.

HTH


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## 00 Ram

I'm betting that the plow will cover the lights. It covered mine, and I have a full size 4x4 truck. I was recently going through some of my old posts, and I think I wrote in one that my plow lifts 16" off the ground; add the width of the plow to that, and your headlights need to be pretty high up to clear the blade. 
I was able to buy just the light posts from one of the vendors on e-bay. I think they were around 80 bucks. I don't think that price is out of line, either. they look kind of flimsy, in the pics, but "irl", they're quite rugged. I bought generic plow light heads from Northern tools. (still not happy w/ my wiring setup, but I'll post another thread about that!)

33 driveways?!  seems like alot, for a non-commercial piece of equipment. But, I suppose, there's "driveways", and then there's "driveways". 33 driveways like mine would take you 3 days to plow. not yer typical suburban, short/flat/straight/paved drive. I guess if you're gentle with equipment, you could do it. There are other commercial snow-bear users out there.


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## KGRlandscapeing

my first one was the blue winter wolf held up for 3 season didnt need a cutting edge when i got rid of it. the second one was a winter wolf extreme or whatever it was red my couzin has it now but it needed a new cutting edge after 2 season. other then that a good plow. first one didnt have the lights no issue there that was a 91 ranger. second one i bought them because i was gonna be doing more with it. pain in the butt unpluging them when u want to turn them on or off.


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## avangorder

*winch won't move*

Looking to get ready for the upcoming snow, realized that the winch was hesitating on my snowbear plow. Look in the manual and ordered the replacement rotary switch, part 00442.

Not knowing what I am doing I began to take apart the winch itself to replace this switch. Once apart I realized that this switch does not belong on the winch but in the control box. Put the winch back together and replaced the switch in the control box. Pretty interesting with the high powered magnets inside.

Tried to operate winch with new switch and all it did was spark at the black connection. Now it won't do anything.

Did I break the winch by taking it apart? Do I know need to replace it? There were 4 springs inside that I could not get back in due to the magnets. I am at a loss as to what to do next, did I cause a short with the spark?

Snow is coming this weekend and I need help!!!!


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## cjcocn

I think I used some flat screwdrivers to hold two of the springs in (I balanced them and worked gingerly) while using my fingers to hold the other two springs in. It took some finesse, but it certainly is doable.

As for the potential short/resulting damage, have a look when you open it back up. If all looks good then get the springs back in and give it a go.


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## bdhunter

EPS;447528 said:


> I have a 88" snowbear due in anyday now thats going on my 04 chevy trailblazer. Will I need the light kit or is it small enough that when I lift the blade it wont interfer with the trucks headlights?


I bought the posts only and installed an older pair of Fisher lights on them - at that time, there was a guy on ebay caled See Jay Sales 
( http://www.seejaysales.com/index.html ) and he was great to deal with. That was a much cheaper solution than having brackets fabricated.


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## avangorder

cjcocn;454612 said:


> I think I used some flat screwdrivers to hold two of the springs in (I balanced them and worked gingerly) while using my fingers to hold the other two springs in. It took some finesse, but it certainly is doable.
> 
> As for the potential short/resulting damage, have a look when you open it back up. If all looks good then get the springs back in and give it a go.


Tried and failed, just did not have the finesse to get it done. Shipped it to a guy in PA who will fix it today. Did not really have a choice, needed it fixed. Another decent storm coming this weekend. Think I would learn not to leave things to the last minute.

Thanks!


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## Trubrit

*Sticky Snowbear motor*

I've used a Snowbear for 3 years and have a small tarp that goes over the motor when it's not being used. The motor is very exposed and I've found it good to keep it covered.

Never had a problem with the motor. Terminals short sometimes if snow gets on them - it's good to carry a brush to sweep away snow.

Also, Electrical switch cleaner in a spray can prevent the contacts from oxidzing when you prepare to fire it up before the first snow.

Best buy for the money ($850 from a dealer in CT)


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## mikegcanada

00 Ram;444764 said:


> after 2 seasons?
> 
> Went out to get ready for the recent little storm, and found that I couldn't lift the plow. Motor wouldn't run. Testing showed 12v at the motor contacts, so its not a connection issue. So I took it off, brought it in the house...fussed with it a little...remembered the emergency crank handle that came with the plow. So I used that to rotate the spool back and forth a bit, and when I connected it to a battery, it worked! or so I thought...
> 
> So thismorning, I went out to actually plow the snow...hooked up the winch, started it up to lift the plow. Motor runs, spool turns, until it gets a load on it, then stops turning. (motor will keep running). just a "click click click" on the spool, like a gear tooth is missing, or something. manual crank won't move it, either...I can just feel the "click click click".
> 
> So I have an email in to Superwinch support. (nothing back from them, yet.). But I'm thinking that I'm probably going to need a replacement. Snowbear has a replacement winch on their site for $300 bucks. seems kind of steep. You can find other similar superwinch models for less...wondering if there's any reason NOT to just get another off-the-shelf winch (as long as the mounting holes match up...most "superwinches" are the same)...even another brand. The plow only weighs a few hundred pounds, at best...smallest winches are 1500/2000lbs.
> I'm thinking perhaps if I can get the original fixed for a reasonable amount, I should do that, too, and have a spare.
> 
> thoughts?


have another problem with winch - motor doesn't work at all. Bought an off the shelf winch - however didn't realize you need an brake lock on it - when no power to the winch plow goes to the ground. were you able to find some what other brand/type winch that can do the same job? thanks

mike


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## mikegcanada

*Now got the winch apart*

Got the old winch apart. All the magnets are stuck to the aperture. some rust - but no blue so nothing got overheated. Have to glue them back to the wall of the cylinder. The trick now is to figure out how the magnets go. There are two sizes of magnets - four on one side of the bolts and four on the other. I guess where they meet at the bolts they would have to be pushing apart so the aperture would get current. Anyone have any ideas?

Mike


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## cjcocn

Is your winch model listed on this page?

http://www.superwinch.com/SUPPORT.html


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## kwollen

*Cheap replacement winch*

Look at my entry "SnowBear Cheap Replacement Winch" or something close to that. It is currently the last entry on page 7, soon to be on page 8. I wrote this around Jan 2007. No welding or machining required! Good Luck!
kwollen


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## mikegcanada

*Snow Bear Winch - got the exact replacement motor*

Hi everyone. Thanks for the info. I couldn't find my Superwinch number on
the superwinch site - I guess that number is obsolete because my winch is
now five years old.

My winch has a chain. On Friday, we tried putting a friend's ATV winch
(2000 lb with a clutch) on (even made a new bracket) and went out to plow.
The winch lifted the plow just fine and we though we had solved the problem.
But I think the ATV winch is designed to pull something out and once that is
done it doesn't need to work anymore. Not the same concept with a plow -
the plow has to stay locked in the last position you put it to. However,
the ATV winch just dropped the plow down to the ground once it didn't have
power. Can't drive a vehicle with a plow behaving like that. The winch on
the snowbear has a clutch and a brake so the plow stays up - that's why it
is more expensive. I managed to find the exact Superwinch replacement motor
today - just have to take the top off and run the bolts to the winch.

The dealer said the magnets in the motor usually last about 3 years before
they come loose - the glue just weakens because of the banging and the
moisture.. He also said that gluing the magnets would probably work - just
be careful what kind of glue you use. So I think my problem will be
resolved once I get the time to put that motor on. And when I feel
ambitious and have lots of time I'll clean up the old winch motor and glue
those magnets on - hopefully I'll get them in the right order. Maybe I'll
have a spare that way..

Thanks

Mike


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## topdj

good luck, I tried gluing the magnets, didn't work for long
ended up with a winch off ebay seemed to work well and was less frustrating then
rebuilding the motor again. I just sold my Snowbear in October when I got my Hiniker Homeowner plow , LOVE not getting out to angle 

I did get a quite a bit of use out of my Snowbear some commercial too 
2 motors replaced and,replaced cut edge with 3/8"x 6" T-10 got 7 years of use. not bad for a cheap plow.


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## mikegcanada

*magnets*

Topdj -I never worked with permanent magnets so any info you can give me would be useful. Did you have 8 magnets - four for each side of the bolt? Re gluing the magnets - when you lined them up inside the cylinder between the two long bolts - the magnet ends facing the bolts repelled each other? What kind of glue did you use? Looks like the original glue was some kind of silicone. I was thinking of using epoxy. Thanks


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## wagonman76

During the 2nd season my winch started acting up. Mine is the same as the Snowbear winch. It was drifting down, and sometimes Id have to hit it with a hammer to get it to run. I took it apart and the inside was all rust, and the brush springs were just crumbs. I put in new springs, cleaned it all up, and coated the parts with wheel bearing grease. I also used some sealing washers at the electrical connections. This is the 2nd season after fixing it and it is working great still.


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## plowguy43

I have only had my snowbear since November this year and have had no problems with it. I also keep mine in my garage and out of the elements which may help. Also, I've had to plow some deep snow with it during these past few storms and have had no complaints coming from a minute mount 1 on an older F150. It plows and clears just as well, doesn't back drag as well, and obviously doesn't angle. The manual angle isn't a huge issue but does get kinda annoying if its really cold out. It seems like the best deal for not beating up your truck and getting a good plow at the same time. My 03 Dakota Quad cab barely squats with the plow on.


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## moosey

I've gone thru many winches. Got tried of it being slow going up or down. I solved that real quick back in September of '06. Check out the pic.


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## F150dash

moosey;481769 said:


> I've gone thru many winches. Got tried of it being slow going up or down. I solved that real quick back in September of '06. Check out the pic.


Wow that is quite the setup. Bet it works really well. Would rasie much faster I would assume.


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## groundbreakers

moosey;481769 said:


> I've gone thru many winches. Got tried of it being slow going up or down. I solved that real quick back in September of '06. Check out the pic.


hey moosey .. when you get time .. i want to see that whole plow set up .... kinda gave me an idea .. \

thanks


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## Than Oliver

superwinch.com or shopzorkos.com


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## bostiguy

Than Oliver;1684695 said:


> superwinch.com or shopzorkos.com


Did you realize this is a nearly 6 year old thread?Thumbs Up


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