# Belt area squeak...



## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

I've noticed lately that the belt area on my truck (6.0L) has a squeak between 1500 and 500 RPM's. It seems to be most evident on damp or rainy days, when the temp is colder. It isn't like a constant squealing, it's like a squeak that coencides with the speed of the engine. Anyone have any idea what it could be?

Thanks,
Matt


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

could be the belt sweaking.... sorry, I had to. My truck use to do that too. I use some type of belt dressing from farm and fleet and it took it away. comes in a spray can


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

If the noise is related to damp weather then more than likely it's the belt causing the noise. Remove the old belt and clean all the pullys with brake clean and a small brush to remove any traces of old belt material (a very important step that many guys overlook btw). Then replace the belt with the best one you can find. GM or Goodyear Gatorback are both good belts...

_Never spray belt dressing on a serpentine belt system_!

Some guys will tell you it's ok, but it just covers up the problem and can cause more harm than good.


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

If you know your belt is in good shape and it is it that is squealing, a wee bit of fluid film will help. Ok I retract that since B&B say not to do it. It worked on a noisy v-belt, but that is different. It might also be the bearing in the idler, or the clutch on the fan. Could be alternator also. Take a long screwdriver and place the handle against your ear-the blade on the alternator housing, then close to the idler, *very carefully* so as you do not hit the belt or fan. Very carefully! That should help you isolate where it is coming from.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

streetsurfin';431253 said:


> If you know your belt is in good shape and it is it that is squealing, a wee bit of fluid film will help. Ok I retract that since B&B say not to do it. It worked on a noisy v-belt, but that is different.


 Correct ss, belt dressing is designed for V-belts and can work fine for them..

But belt dressing is just a "cover up" for a belt, pulley, or pulley mis-alignment problem and is usually just a temporary fix.. but it is easier than fixing the problem .


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

I sprayed a little WD-40 into the center of one of the idlers- squeak seems to have subsided for now, we will see. It's really more like a regular chirp than a squeak.


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

B&B;431267 said:


> But belt dressing is just a "cover up" for a belt, pulley, or pulley mis-alignment problem and is usually just a temporary fix..


Absolutely, better to repair. How's this for backpedaling to save my image ....I guess I was thinking along the lines that if it helped then you've narrowed it down to the accessory drive being the source, and then you can dig deeper from there.


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

mkwl;431276 said:


> I sprayed a little WD-40 into the center of one of the idlers- squeak seems to have subsided for now, we will see. It's really more like a regular chirp than a squeak.


I saw over there that someone suggested that. I wanted to advise against that. If the bearing was dry the WD wont last long or do much for it. It will probably thin and cause loss of what grease is left in there if there is any. Now pull the belt and turn that idler by hand, I bet it rumbles a bit. Same as above...you didn't fix it but now now the part that is the cause.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

streetsurfin';431295 said:


> I saw over there that someone suggested that. I wanted to advise against that. If the bearing was dry the WD wont last long or do much for it. It will probably thin and cause loss of what grease is left in there if there is any. Now pull the belt and turn that idler by hand, I bet it rumbles a bit. Same as above...you didn't fix it but now now the part that is the cause.


What's the best way to take the belt off? Can the idler all the way to the top left (looking at the front of the truck) be easily replaced (without taking more things apart than taking off the belt and the pulley to be replaced? Anyone know how much these pulleys cost to replace doing it myself vs. dealer doing it for me?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

streetsurfin';431291 said:


> Absolutely, better to repair. How's this for backpedaling to save my image ..


 I like it ss!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;431276 said:


> I sprayed a little WD-40 into the center of one of the idlers- squeak seems to have subsided for now, we will see. It's really more like a regular chirp than a squeak.


 A steady "chirp" noise is usually a belt problem..a noisey bearing will usually growl or howl or only chirp every couple of seconds.

If you sprayed the bearing area on the pulley, then I guarantee you also got it on the belt which will hinder your diagnosis.. let to go for a few days to burn off the WD-40 and then try this:

With the engine running (BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!) spray/pour some water on the belt. If the chirp _instantly_ goes away then it's a belt problem, not a bearing problem...make sure you do the A/C belt too as it's a separate belt..

If it doesn't go away then you need to dig deeper to see what's up.



mkwl;431306 said:


> What's the best way to take the belt off? Can the idler all the way to the top left (looking at the front of the truck) be easily replaced (without taking more things apart than taking off the belt and the pulley to be replaced? Anyone know how much these pulleys cost to replace doing it myself vs. dealer doing it for me?


 To pull the belt it's easier if you pull the air intake tube off and then just pull the tension off the tensioner pulley and remove the belt..

The main tensioner pulley is easy to change on the 6.0's. Just remove the bolt out of the center of the pulley and remove the pulley...

If the tensioner doesn't seen to have a lot of tension on it when you pull on it, I'd suggest replacing the whole tensioner/pulley as an assembly..a little cheaper that way..
Figure around $60-$80 for a tensioner/pulley assembly.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431326 said:


> A steady "chirp" noise is usually a belt problem..a noisey bearing will usually growl or howl or only chirp every couple of seconds.
> 
> If you sprayed the bearing area on the pulley, then I guarantee you also got it on the belt which will hinder your diagnosis.. let to go for a few days to burn off the WD-40 and then try this:
> 
> ...


Okay, which pulley is the main tensioner?


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431326 said:


> A steady "chirp" noise is usually a belt problem..a noisey bearing will usually growl or howl or only chirp every couple of seconds.
> 
> If you sprayed the bearing area on the pulley, then I guarantee you also got it on the belt which will hinder your diagnosis.. let to go for a few days to burn off the WD-40 and then try this:
> 
> ...


The noise is like a chirp, chirp, chirp, and gets faster as I raise up the RPM's. It's not constant, but rather is chirp, no chirp for a split second, chirp, no chirp for a split second, etc.

I'll try the water spray idea- how much water to use?

Where's the AC belt?


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

streetsurfin';431295 said:


> I saw over there that someone suggested that. I wanted to advise against that. If the bearing was dry the WD wont last long or do much for it. It will probably thin and cause loss of what grease is left in there if there is any. Now pull the belt and turn that idler by hand, I bet it rumbles a bit. Same as above...you didn't fix it but now now the part that is the cause.


COuld you (or someone else) go onto autozone.com and give me the part #'s I'll need for a new gatorback belt (I have the 145A), and the part # for the pulley in the upper left (looking at the front of the truck) I will need. Also- how hard is it to change out the belt? Can it be re-installed from the top of the engine without taking anything except the air intake tube secion off?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Look at this pic. The tensioner pulley is the ribbed one at the top passenger side of the engine..closest one in the pic..


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431380 said:


> Look at this pic. The tensioner pulley is the ribbed one at the top passenger side of the engine..closest one in the pic..


Thanks, that's the trouble maker pulley (I think). Do you know what the part # is for that pulley? Also- is it possible to change out the belt from the top of the engine? Just wondering- how would one go about replacing the A/C belt- can it be done from under the truck?


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

#4060930 gatorback belt for 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 4WD 6.0 L gasSFI 145 amp alt.

tensioner pulley only #231086 (water pump, alt, power steering)

tensioner and pulley #305253 (water pump, alt, power steering) 

Cant help you on the ease of it on your truck other than I dont think it will be difficult at all. Did you find the routing sticker in the engine bay anywhere? I've done it very easily on a lightning and mustang


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

The main belt is changed from the top side..once you pull the intake tube off you'll be able to get at it much better.

The A/C belt needs to be changed from under the truck and it's a lot easier if you remove the skid plate. The A/C belt also has it's own tensioner on the underside of the engine..they're a little tough to get to but their not too bad..


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

streetsurfin';431424 said:


> #4060930 gatorback belt for 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 4WD 6.0 L gasSFI 145 amp alt.
> 
> tensioner pulley only #231086 (water pump, alt, power steering)
> 
> ...


SS, who's part # are those? Their not GM..just wondered.

mkwl, if your buying at the dealer and want the GM # let me know...


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431430 said:


> SS, who's part # are those? Their not GM..just wondered.
> 
> mkwl, if your buying at the dealer and want the GM # let me know...


I was planning on getting them from autozone, but if you could get me the GM part #'s I'd sure appreciate it!


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

streetsurfin';431424 said:


> #4060930 gatorback belt for 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 4WD 6.0 L gasSFI 145 amp alt.
> 
> tensioner pulley only #231086 (water pump, alt, power steering)
> 
> ...


Thanks, yeah, I found the routing decal, I was looking at it and I think I see how it will come off/go back on.

I'm still not clear on how to get the tension off the tensioner though, perhaps someone could shed soem light on this.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

The # for the tensioner pulley are:

AC Delco # 38009
GM # 88909590

The main drive belt # are:
With 105 amp alt.
AC Delco# 6K923
GM# 88932784

With 130 amp alt
AC Delco# 6K930
GM# 88932786

The A/C belt# is:
A/C Delco# 4K378
GM# 88932529

The Delco will be cheaper than the GM but their every bit as good...


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431452 said:


> The # for the tensioner pulley are:
> 
> AC Delco # 38009
> GM # 88909590
> ...


My truck has the 145A alternator- is it the same belt as the 130A? How are the Good Year belts for the truck?

Also- how hard is it to replace the A/C belt?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;431449 said:


> I'm still not clear on how to get the tension off the tensioner though, perhaps someone could shed soem light on this.


 It's spring loaded..

Just slip a socket (usually 15mm) and long ratchet or breaker bar on the head of the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley and pull the tensioner in toward the water pump. Then while holding it there, use your other hand to slip the belt off one of the pulleys..then carefully release the breaker bar..


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;431463 said:


> My truck has the 145A alternator is it the same belt as the 130A? How are the Good Year belts for the truck?


 Yes they take the same belt..
and the Goodyear belts are excellent..



> Also- how hard is it to replace the A/C belt?


Once you get the truck up in the air and remove the skid plate, just release the tension on the tensioner just like I described for the top one...it's much smaller in size but it works the same way. It's above the front cross member and theirs cooler lines in the way so it's a little tough to get a tool on it to release it but it's not too bad.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431504 said:


> Yes they take the same belt..
> and the Goodyear belts are excellent..
> 
> Once you get the truck up in the air and remove the skid plate, just release the tension on the tensioner just like I described for the top one...it's much smaller in size but it works the same way. It's above the front cross member and theirs cooler lines in the way so it's a little tough to get a tool on it to release it but it's not too bad.


Thanks, I think I'm going to go with the goodyear belt (I'll just replace the main belt, not A/C. Just so I'm clear- to relieve the tension, I loosen the bolt in the center ofthe tensioner pulley? I would assume if this is the case that if I keep loosening it will come off totally (so it could be replaced). Also- how tight must it be re-tightened to?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;431514 said:


> Thanks, I think I'm going to go with the goodyear belt (I'll just replace the main belt, not A/C. Just so I'm clear- to relieve the tension, I loosen the bolt in the center ofthe tensioner pulley? I would assume if this is the case that if I keep loosening it will come off totally (so it could be replaced). Also- how tight must it be re-tightened to?


Your not actually loosening the bolt to relieve the belt tension, your just using the bolt head in the pulley to pivot the tensioner with the socket and breaker bar..and not only that, you'll be turning the bolt head clockwise to loosen the belt tension so you'd actually be tightening the bolt rather than loosening it. Once you get the belt off, then turn the same bolt counter clockwise to loosen and remove the bolt in order to replace the pulley.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;431522 said:


> Your not actually loosening the bolt to relieve the belt tension, your just using the bolt head in the pulley to pivot the tensioner with the socket and breaker bar..and not only that, you'll be turning the bolt head clockwise to loosen the belt tension so you'd actually be tightening the bolt rather than loosening it. Once you get the belt off, then turn the same bolt counter clockwise to loosen and remove the bolt in order to replace the pulley.


Ahhh, now I understand! So I put a socket on it, then push in a clockwise direction on the bolt to take tension off...got it!

Also- what's the best way to get the belt around the pulleys down low in the engine (past where I can reach)?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;431534 said:


> Ahhh, now I understand! So I put a socket on it, then push in a clockwise direction on the bolt to take tension off...got it!


 Yep! You got it now..



> Also- what's the best way to get the belt around the pulleys down low in the engine (past where I can reach)?


 Sometimes it take a long bar or screwdriver (be careful you don't damage the belt) to "fish" it around the pulleys, but mostly just an arm and some stretching will get it done.


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## streetsurfin' (Jan 22, 2004)

Those were the numbers from AutoZone I gave you.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

streetsurfin';431548 said:


> Those were the numbers from AutoZone I gave you. How to remove the belt is hard to explain but easy to do. You'll be removing it from the all the pulleys, so you have lots of slack, and grabbing it wherever you can- maybe at like 10 an 2 o'clock, push down and it will form a loop that you can work around the front of the fan and work it up around the fan toward the top. I hope that helps. B&B can probably give you a better explanation. Just keep track of your steps so you can reverse them for the installation. Can you have someone take pics or video of the removal while you do it. that may help. Sounds like you are more nervous about attempting it than you ought to be though. It should go easily once you get in there and get started. You'll be fine.


Thanks, I found the decal with the routing procedure, I'll take note of how the belt comes out so I can be sure to get it in right.

Also- I think B&B mentioned about cleaning the pulleys- how is the best way to do this for the pulleys doen deep into the engine?

I'd assume it's possible to get the belt around the pulleys down towards the bottom of the engine from the top, right?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;431556 said:


> Also- I think B&B mentioned about cleaning the pulleys- how is the best way to do this for the pulleys down deep into the engine?


 I like to use a can of brake clean and a small stiff bristle brush to scrub the ribbed pulleys. The smooth one's, just use the brake clean and a shop towel.



> I'd assume it's possible to get the belt around the pulleys down toward the bottom of the engine from the top, right?


 It's a little tight but yea, you can get the belt on all the pulleys from up top.. an extra hand is also really helpful.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

B&B;431252 said:


> _Never spray belt dressing on a serpentine belt system_!
> 
> Some guys will tell you it's ok, but it just covers up the problem and can cause more harm than good.


Sorry for the bad info guys, I'm that guy that think's it is ok. 



B&B;431267 said:


> But belt dressing is just a "cover up" for a belt, pulley, or pulley mis-alignment problem and is usually just a temporary fix.. but it is easier than fixing the problem .


Caught again, finding the easy way out... maybe that's why my inlaws don't care for me much. :

Hey B,
Is Belt Condititioner ok? or is that the same thing? The can I have is made by CRC and it is called Belt Conditioner. It says back of the can, for use on flat, round, serpentine or V-belts(leather, rubber,canvas, or fabric).

What about silicone spray? PB Blaster? 15w40? Just Kidding


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Philbilly2;432029 said:


> Sorry for the bad info guys, I'm that guy that think's it is ok.


 So you must be that guy that parents always refer to as the "bad influence" then? j/k 



> Hey B,
> Is Belt Condititioner ok? or is that the same thing? The can I have is made by CRC and it is called Belt Conditioner. It says back of the can, for use on flat, round, serpentine or V-belts(leather, rubber,canvas, or fabric).


 Yes it's the same stuff as the dressing..... and even though it says on the can that it's ok on a serpentine setup, it's still just a "band aid" for the real problem, and can cause more problems than it "fixes"..

All belt dressing is is an adhesive to help the belt grip the pulleys so it won't slip. A slipping belt isn't all that uncommon on a V belt setup but a serpentine belt should NEVER slip since it has constant tension on it and, it has way more surface area to grip the pulleys with.
Plus most belt noise isn't actually the belt slipping on the pulleys, it's the edges of the belt actually "sticking" to the edges of the pulleys as it goes around them (actually its usually a specific pulley, thats why they "chirp" only several times a second) . Now, if you spray a sticky substance on it like _belt dressing,_ what is it going to do? It's gonna stick even more...which usually lead's to a noisier belt after a short period of time passes and the dressing dries up..and in the end, you just end up with a mess and replacing the belt anyway.That's why I call it a "band aid".


> What about silicone spray? PB Blaster? 15w40? Just Kidding


As long as the 15W-40 is the special "for serpentine belt use only" formula, then it's ok to use..


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

B&B;432090 said:


> So you must be that guy that parents always refer to as the "bad influence" then? j/k
> 
> *No, I was the kid who ran with siccosirs... and the one who couldn't spell.*
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind the next time I spray my band-aid in a can on the sweaking belt! j/k


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

Well, the infamous squeak is back, after having replaced the belts, and tensioner about a year ago. Now, it only seems to happen with cold/damp weather mostly- more of a squeak now than a chirp- and usually goes away once the engine reaches the operating temp/runs for about 20 mins. It's especially bad after pulling out of a car wash. I'm trying to figure this one out- driving me crazy. Any ideas? What would a bad accessory bearing sound like/are there any common culprits?

Thanks,
Matt


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

What brand of belt did you end up using Matt?

Does your truck set for long periods at a time?

Did you change the A/C belt as well?


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## JCI Trans (Oct 21, 2008)

iIthe same problem last winter, until the squeak became constant. I went from pulley to pully with wd40 to see which one quieted down, turned out to be the idler pulley on the top of the engine. Changed it out, along with the a/c belt while i had it apart. Upon further inspection, the old idler bearing was toast, made a grinding noise when i spun it by hand. No Problems since! Def. spend the money on good belts!!!!!


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## JCI Trans (Oct 21, 2008)

I had the same problem last winter* (sorry it chopped the beginning of the post off!!)


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;748291 said:


> What brand of belt did you end up using Matt?
> 
> Does your truck set for long periods at a time?
> 
> Did you change the A/C belt as well?


Goodyear belt. Not really- maybe a day at a time. Yes, both belts were changed- changed the A/C one with a non-cogged one though- not sure if it matters or not.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

JCI Trans;748339 said:


> iIthe same problem last winter, until the squeak became constant. I went from pulley to pully with wd40 to see which one quieted down, turned out to be the idler pulley on the top of the engine. Changed it out, along with the a/c belt while i had it apart. Upon further inspection, the old idler bearing was toast, made a grinding noise when i spun it by hand. No Problems since! Def. spend the money on good belts!!!!!


Yep- changed that pulley too.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Generally the Gaterback's dont create that kind of issue directly but it is possible it's gotten some type of contamination on it in the year that it's been in service (calcium, grease, coolant or road salt brine for example) as they will contaminate them. You may want to try cleaning the belt and pulleys with some brake clean and check the various pulley bearings again to be sure it's actually a belt and not a bearing issue this time.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;748459 said:


> Generally the Gaterback's dont create that kind of issue directly but it is possible it's gotten some type of contamination on it in the year that it's been in service (calcium, grease, coolant or road salt brine for example) as they will contaminate them. You may want to try cleaning the belt and pulleys with some brake clean and check the various pulley bearings again to be sure it's actually a belt and not a bearing issue this time.


What's the best way to go about testing the pulleys?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Remove the belt and give the idler and tensioner pulley a good spin by hand. If you hear any weired noises or feel any roughness in them then its time for replacement.


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## PLOWMAN45 (Jul 2, 2003)

i changed my belts and idler pulley it happen when i ran my ac also


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

PLOWMAN45;748686 said:


> i changed my belts and idler pulley it happen when i ran my ac also


So does it still squeak?


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## PLOWMAN45 (Jul 2, 2003)

nope not at all there 2 belts on that motor


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## dlcs (Sep 2, 2004)

I bet its your ac belt or the tensioner. My '99 would seemed to always have problems with the ac drive system. i think that tensioner is always in the salt and muck, causing frequent failures.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

dlcs;748950 said:


> I bet its your ac belt or the tensioner. My '99 would seemed to always have problems with the ac drive system. i think that tensioner is always in the salt and muck, causing frequent failures.


I was actually just thinking that myself! does anyone know about how much the a/c idler would cost/how long it would take a DEALER to change it out? I'd do it myself, but I'm up at school, and it's driving me nuts!


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

Also- after driving the truck around for a while today (about 20 mins) it has pretty much gone away. But as soon as I start the truck after letting it sit for an hour or two, it comes back again. Also- the squeak does not seem to go away when the a/c is turned on- not sure if this makes any difference or not.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;749031 said:


> I was actually just thinking that myself! does anyone know about how much the a/c idler would cost/how long it would take a DEALER to change it out? I'd do it myself, but I'm up at school, and it's driving me nuts!


Matt when I made reference to checking the bearings and cleaning the belts that also applied to the A/C drive components too. The A/C belt is a narrow 4 rib belt and usually do not cause noise issues but the tensioner pulley bearings will...thats why you want to check ALL the pulleys, not just the main accessory ones.

To answer your A/C tensioner question it's not tough but you need to do it from underneath.

1) Pull the skid plate off (4 15 MM headed bolts)
2) Release the belt tension from the A/C tensioner and remove the A/C belt.
3) Remove the two bolts holing the tensioner assembly to the front of the block.
4) Reverse order of removal for re-assembly.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;749104 said:


> Matt when I made reference to checking the bearings and cleaning the belts that also applied to the A/C drive components too. The A/C belt is a narrow 4 rib belt and usually do not cause noise issues but the tensioner pulley bearings will...thats why you want to check ALL the pulleys, not just the main accessory ones.
> 
> To answer your A/C tensioner question it's not tough but you need to do it from underneath.
> 
> ...


Okay, thanks- does the serpentine belt meed to come off too? Also- about how much would the part from GM cost, and how long should it take a GM tech to do?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

0.4 hr is the factory book time for the A/C tensioner R&R.

In order to change the A/C tensioner you don't need to remove the main accessory belt, only if your also changing the A/C belt along with the tensioner. 

A/C tensioner will run you around $50-$70. The aftermarkets ones are fine too...doesn't need to be a GM part.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;749270 said:


> 0.4 hr is the factory book time for the A/C tensioner R&R.
> 
> In order to change the A/C tensioner you don't need to remove the main accessory belt, only if your also changing the A/C belt along with the tensioner.
> 
> A/C tensioner will run you around $50-$70. The aftermarkets ones are fine too...doesn't need to be a GM part.


Thanks B&B- I'm probably going to have to have the stealer do it this time- so I can assume it'll be around $100 ($40 labor for 1/2 hr, and $60 for the idler)- could be worse I guess.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

Also- would there be any way of knowing if it would be the compressor bearing, and not the idler? What would be the liklihood of having the bearing in the compressor go bad?


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## dlcs (Sep 2, 2004)

I'd bet money that its the tensioner for the ac. My dealer charged me less the $100 a few years ago to change mine. I was in and out in 30 minutes. Mine would squeel so bad that the neighbors would get pissed, very annoying.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

dlcs;749466 said:


> I'd bet money that its the tensioner for the ac. My dealer charged me less the $100 a few years ago to change mine. I was in and out in 30 minutes. Mine would squeel so bad that the neighbors would get pissed, very annoying.


I'm hoping that it's the idler and not the compressor or something like that! I should probably add- the squeak goes away after running the truck for 20 mins or so, and when it is squeaking- goes away at about 2000 RPM's- as soon as I let off the throttle- comes back again.


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## dlcs (Sep 2, 2004)

mkwl;749516 said:


> I'm hoping that it's the idler and not the compressor or something like that! I should probably add- the squeak goes away after running the truck for 20 mins or so, and when it is squeaking- goes away at about 2000 RPM's- as soon as I let off the throttle- comes back again.


yep, thats exactly how mine did, when it was really cold out, it was even worse.


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## ABES (Jun 10, 2007)

Instead of going to the dealer why dont you just find a good mechanic at a local shop? To me the only differences between a dealer and a local shop is that the dealer charges twice as much. JMO


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

ABES;749530 said:


> Instead of going to the dealer why dont you just find a good mechanic at a local shop? To me the only differences between a dealer and a local shop is that the dealer charges twice as much. JMO


I would do this, except the only other "real" shop in town/nearby is a monro muffler center- I hate the "chain" shops. I hate to pay the stealer, but again I don't want to have it to have a problem out on the highway either.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

mkwl;749435 said:


> Also- would there be any way of knowing if it would be the compressor bearing, and not the idler? What would be the liklihood of having the bearing in the compressor go bad?


If it still makes the noise even with the A/C or defrosters on then it isn't the compressor bearing. When you engage the clutch on the compressor the bearing (in the clutch) stops rotating...so if it still makes the noise with the clutch engaged it can't be that.


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## JPMAKO (Dec 10, 2003)

B&B;749639 said:


> If it still makes the noise even with the A/C or defrosters on then it isn't the compressor bearing. When you engage the clutch on the compressor the bearing (in the clutch) stops rotating...so if it still makes the noise with the clutch engaged it can't be that.


Could also be the Alternator.
When you have the belt off, spin the Alternator as well as the bearings in them go bad too.
This caused a squeeking noise in my pick-up last year. I thought it was a belt too but after removing the belt and spinning the idler and alternator pulleys I discovered that the alternator was making a grinding noise. Well at least I have an extra belt now.


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## crossboneracing (Feb 19, 2006)

Just fixed this today on my 04, I replaced both belts, and both tensioners. Problem solved. Cost me around $140 or so for 2 belts and 2 tensioners


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

Well, $120 later :crying: the cause was as a few of us guessed- the A/C idler pulley had gone bad- REALLY bad lol- wish I got a pic of it- the bearing was totally GONE! Definitely was time for a replacement! Squeak seems to have gone away now- hopefully it stays that way! ussmileyflag


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

Well the noise has still stuck around- kinda comes and goes...would it really hurt anything to put a little belt dressing on the belts to see if it's the belts or not? If it is- I'll replace it, but if it's still making noise- then I'll look deeper...


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

When testing belts for noise do not use belt dressing, use a candle. Simply run the candle on the belt (doing both sides) with the engine running. The wax temporarily lubricates the belt but won't damage it like oil based lubricates or belt dressings can.

*Disclaimer:*_ Be sure to be very very careful when applying the wax! Keep your extremities away from the spinning components! _


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;967324 said:


> When testing belts for noise do not use belt dressing, use a candle. Simply run the candle on the belt (doing both sides) with the engine running. The wax temporarily lubricates the belt but won't damage it like oil based lubricates or belt dressings can.
> 
> *Disclaimer:*_ Be sure to be very very careful when applying the wax! Keep your extremities away from the spinning components! _


Ok I'll give this a shot tomorrow- do I have to get it into the grooves of the belt, or just on the inside and outside surfaces? It seems like the thing is always squeaking- I now seem to have 2 noises, a squeak and a squeal- truck's very noisy on wet/damp/cool days!


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

If the noise is still there with the wax trick, I guess I'll pull the belt and start spinning pulleys...??? Will it be obvious which one is the culprit?

It seems to only do it on damp/wet days- I can predict when it'll happen... and the longer I run the truck the more it will go away, down to a small "chirp" after running it for about an hour on wet days...


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Weather related belt noises that subside as the belt warms up are normally caused by the belt itself. But I'd still slip the belts off and give all the pulleys a spin. If you find a rough one you'll know it when you do as they should all turn smoothly with no roughness. The alternator will probably give you a very faint squeak when you turn it but thats normal so don;t pass that off as the alt being defective. The rest should be smooth as silk.

If the pulleys all have a good feel to them then go ahead and replace the belts, and use something much better than what I'm sure the last shop installed. Find a local part store that carries Goodyear Gatorback belts, they're one of the best and quietest, and longest lasting belts out there. They're not even much more cost than the bargain basement belts many shops use.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;967346 said:


> Weather related belt noises that subside as the belt warms up are normally caused by the belt itself. But I'd still slip the belts off and give all the pulleys a spin. If you find a rough one you'll know it when you do as they should all turn smoothly with no roughness. The alternator will probably give you a very faint squeak when you turn it but thats normal so don;t pass that off as the alt being defective. The rest should be smooth as silk.
> 
> If the pulleys all have a good feel to them then go ahead and replace the belts, and use something much better than what I'm sure the last shop installed. Find a local part store that carries Goodyear Gatorback belts, they're one of the best and quietest, and longest lasting belts out there. They're not even much more cost than the bargain basement belts many shops use.


Ok thanks- I'll give the candle a shot- then see about the pulley's...

Could "crud" on the pulley's cause a belt noise as well? What works best to clean the pulley's?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yes cruddy pulleys can cause belt noise. Salt contamination of the belts will too. No real way to clean it thoroughly so replacement is the best option but the pulleys can and always should be cleaned any time belts are replaced. 

Brake clean and a stiff bristle brush works best on the pulleys. You can also use a water based degreaser just be sure it's washed off thoroughly before installing the new belts or the degreaser itself can cause belt noise...which is exactly what you're attempting to fix in the first place.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

B&B;967361 said:


> Yes cruddy pulleys can cause belt noise. Salt contamination of the belts will too. No real way to clean it thoroughly so replacement is the best option but the pulleys can and always should be cleaned any time belts are replaced.
> 
> Brake clean and a stiff bristle brush works best on the pulleys. You can also use a water based degreaser just be sure it's washed off thoroughly before installing the new belts or the degreaser itself can cause belt noise...which is exactly what you're attempting to fix in the first place.


Okay- I'll see what I can figure out tomorrow- thanks for the insight! Will keep ya posted!


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

I've been noticing a sort of a chirp on mine for a while, I don't think it's a belt, more likely a pulley or idler or something. Belt is new, alternator is new, neither of those changed it. I removed the vacuum pump and put on a shorter belt recently, I replaced the AC compressor a few years ago, AC doesn't work so I dont know if that matters on the lift of the compressor. Also replaced the idler/adjustment pulley couple years back. What I'm really afraid of is that the harmonic balancer/damper is going. Many of the 6.5 guys have already changed theirs, apparently the rubber inside dries out and disappears. Hope it doesn't fail, not sure how catastrophic that would be.


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## mossman381 (Nov 17, 2009)

We had an 01 chevy tahoe that had a belt squeal and belt chirp. Took it to the dealer under warranty and they said it was the power steering pulley that was misaligned. Had to take it in twice before it actually got fixed.


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## mkwl (Jan 21, 2005)

Ok- ruled out everything except the A/C belt (when I took pressure off the pulley the noise subsided), so I replaced it, checked all the other pulley's and idlers- and so far- she's quiet!

The real test will be to see what happens on another moist day (today was relatively dry), but I think (and hope) I got it. If not, I'm only out $23, so it's not the end of the world...

BTW- replaced the A/C belt with a Gatorback!:salute:


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## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

Amen ! ! ! ! !


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