# Looking For Minute Mount Tips



## Jim00 (Feb 7, 2002)

Hi All,

I'm new to plowing and new to this site. Tried the search thing with no luck on what I'm looking for. I have a '94 Chevy Silverado 2500 4x4 Ext Cab with brand new 350 engine.

Had a Minute Mount plow installed recently, and haven't quite got the hang of how to put it on and take it of easily. I use a small 2-ton jack to take enough strain off the pins to slide them out when taking the plow off ... and use the jack again when putting the plow back on.

I realize the plow isn't named for how long it takes to put it on but I think it ought to be a little easier than that.

*Also* ... does it matter what type of grease I use on the quick-connect electrical plug?

Thanks in advance.

--Jim

Maine - The Way Life Should Be!


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Hi, Jim. Welcome to PlowSite. A couple questions - Are you pushing the "triangle" down before you disconnect the pins? Then is there plenty of slack in the chain? I use a small crowbar or a piece of 1" board to force the pins out and let the plow adjust height to the jackstand. The slack in the chain will then be enough so I can push up and the pins will snap into place when I hook up.

Do you have the owner manual? 

Can't really tell you on the grease.


----------



## JD PLOWER (May 18, 2001)

Try dielectric grease, available at most auto stores.

Mick is correct when he says to pull the lift cylinder down completly before doing anything. REMOVAL: What I do is take the lift bar and pry the jackstand up using the holes in it. Once the weight is off it I pull the mounting pin out with my free hand. This is difficult for me since I have the V plow and the motor for it is very heavy. Mounting: Drive into the "slots" and then get in front of the headgear and push it up, at the same time I usually just kick the pins with my feet and they "pop" in. Dont worry you'll get the hang of it soon enough (although maybe not this year  ) . 

Oh yeah WELCOME TO PS.


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

JD PLOWER's way is the correct way of unhooking with the lift bar. I'd forgotten as the bolt in mine came out within a month of buying the plow. I got "irritated" and threw the bar. That one is a 7.5'. The 9' I had to shorten the chain so much there wasn't enough cylinder left when I pushed it down, so when I unhook it now I put the blade on a 6"x6" block.

Jim, let me know how it's going. Maybe you and I can get together one of these weekends when we're not busy plowing.


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

Jd is right,use the bar,lift up on it,before you pull out of it,the pins should always come out by hand,you should never need any bars,or wood to pry on them.By taking the load off them,it should come right off.I feel it is a minute mount,doesnt take any longer than that,after you know the right way to do it.


----------



## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

Hey JD & JDi,
Can you explain what this "lift bar" is that you are referring to? I'm not getting it. Mine is a '94 if that makes a difference? Thanks.


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

Thee lit bar is a piece of 1" pipe-4 ft long,with a little 7/16" 1" long tip on it,that the Fisher system comes with.You slide the tip inot the holes in the jack,pull up on the bar ,then pull back on the jack lock,you lift up,to unload the suspension,so when you pullinto the mount next time,the frame will lineu perfect,and the plow will go on in under a minute.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

The biggest problem is that the height of the front of the truck should not change. If you unkook the plow with the back of the truck emtpy and then load a sander full the front will be too high for the forks to line up.

Unhook
Try to get on a flat surface.
Blade should be straight, not angled.
Push cylinder down and pull pins
Disconnect power. Back straight away.

Hookup
Drive in.
Release pins and push headgear towards truck
Hook up electrical

Lining up is the hardest part. Once that is done hook/unhook can be done in well under a minute. I still think that the minute mount is the easiest and most trouble free system. I say that after hearing about problems with the Boss. I have not seen a new Western so I am not sure of that system yet.


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

CT,your forgetting to drop the jack ,when removing,the height does change.I know s for a fact,the head gr on a minute mount weighs about 250 lbs,so when you pull in with the plow on,you need to lift up the front end to the point of where the truck sits without the plow.This is easy to do,another thing,is if you dont do this the pins wont come out easy,you'll have to pry on them,or psuh on the headdgear to get them free.Use the lift bar to rasie the front end before you pull out he pins,then the pins wil slide right out,and the plow will remount easier.I think the minute mount,on a 88-98 GM os easy to line up,you lean towards the center,line up the hood line with the lift cylinder,and in it goes.The boss on the Dodge is tough,i never seem to get it right,once its lined up,its easier though.


----------



## P&J Lawncare (Dec 30, 2001)

jim you need to make sure that the plow is in the float position first if it is'nt you can't lower the cylinder down. When you lower the blade all the way it should lite the float lite up on your joystick then leave your truck running and go out and push the triangle (cylinder) down all the way once it is all the way down you should have enough slack in your chains to push up on the head gear as you pull out the pins. Also dont forget to put down your stand first before you do anything. It should'nt take much more than a minute.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

No I am dropping the jack. If I then add two yards of mix into a spreader in the back, before I hook up the plow,the front end of the truck lifts a good amount and it will make the forks on the truck come in above the plow mount. 

If I reverse this and unhook the plow with the spreader full and then unload the spreader, then when I try to hook up the forks on the truck will be too low for the plow mount.

This happens less on my F350 but when I had a F250 and overloaded the back with mix it would happen even with Timbrens. Does not have to do with the jack has to do with staying close to the optimal height that the Fisher is set to.


----------



## Ohiosnow (Sep 20, 2001)

*CT18*

The BOSS SmartHitch 2 hook-up is so fast it's not even funny. Their is no problem with hook-up or unhooking that I've ever herd of. They had a problem with the 2 roll pins but that has nothing to do with the speed of the hookup. I fab a set of dolly wheels that go in the holes where to shoes go on the plow & made a new leg for the jack leg with a dolly wheel attached. Now there is no line up problem. Just pull the truck up anywhere close & slid the plow to the truck mount , plug 2 connectors & flip a switch & your done in 15 sec.  now that's fast & no pins, bars, hoses chains, very simple. Brent


----------



## mdb landscaping (Sep 29, 2000)

everyones adivce up top is good, so i wont talk about that. but i do have a recommendation for you. i got some plow dollies for $50. you unhook the plow on them and can push them around with your finger. its great if you are hooking up the plow by yourself. just a suggestion. good luck.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

If parts are falling off then I would question the quality of the plow. Another thing is how welll will it hook after a few years of abuse on the truck mount? My Fishers are 3 years old and I have stoved the mounts into the ground and roacks when off road Still line right up and can hook up in well under a minute.

I am not questioning the Boss. The question was about Fishers and I was stating the one problem I have had with the Fishers and how I solved it. The mount height must be fairly close to the height when disconnected.


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

CT18fireman is correct. You need to keep in mind what you have in the back when you unhook. The difference between empty and 2 yrds of sand/salt on the back of a 3500 was enough to require the jack.


----------



## BobH (Feb 14, 2002)

I just found this forum today. It is great! My question is similar to JIM 00. I also have a Fisher Minute Mount RD plow on a '97 Chevy K1500. The assembly comes off of the truck in a minute or so with help of a piece of wood to pry the pins out. This is easy. Attaching the plow is the problem. The plow is always a 1/2 inch higher than the truck mounting plates and I have to lift up on the bumper for the pins to engage. The place where I purchased the plow said the lift bar is useless and they recommended to lift the bumper by hand. It does work but is a lot of effort. I tried the lift bar once and bent the tip. If I use the next higher hole on the jack then the plow is too low. Any thoughts on boring out the holes in the mounting plates slightly larger? I can still attach the plow in 10 minutes but it should be quicker? I am attaching the plow on a level garage floor. Also, MDB Landscaping said he purchased plow dollies for $50. I am in Glastonbury CT also and the cheapest I can find them is $125. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.


----------



## thelawnguy (May 20, 2001)

An 8' 2x4 is necessary for leverage if you unhook the plow empty, then try to hookup with a load in the back. No two ways about it...


----------



## JD PLOWER (May 18, 2001)

BOBH 10 minutes is WAAAYYY TO LONG! First off I would say you have the optimal mounting place, a flat garage floor so it should take you less than a minute to mount this plow on the truck. I don't know who your dealer is but they don't know much about these plows! It sounds like your not pushing up enough on the jackstand when removing the plow. Basically as myself and john Dimartino described you need that bar or another device to lift the headgear to releive the tension on it. It sounds like from your description that you must fully depress the plow lift cylinder then use the bar. I would be out of luck if I had to lift the front bumper on my truck (F-350 diesel)  .


----------



## Ohiosnow (Sep 20, 2001)

*Ct18 not questioning BOSS*

You were the one who said the BOSS has problems & you think the minute mount is the easiest & most trouble free system.

As for parts falling off, a hollow pin was the problem & BOSS recalled all new plows with the new SmartHitch2 to have them repaired. I did the repair myself in 10 mins.

Now if your talking about the BOSS-V plow yea they have their problems & that's why I bought the BOSS straight blade. I almost bought the Western V-plow but it had the pins & ect. to hook-up so I went back to the straight blade with no regrets.

As for the easiest to mount the SmartHitch2 is by far the easiest I've see in 35 yrs. of being around plows. No hoses,pins,chains. The truck frame mount is very stout & should last a very long time. 

As most have said you need a crowbar or 2x4 for the minute mount, wow now that's easy or just use the 4' pipe they give you.

I've seen the Minute Mount & it's a nice mount but easy I don't think so compaired to the BOSS.


----------



## Rob (May 15, 2001)

I don't own a Minute Mount, so I can't comment on that. But I can tell you that I do own a Curtis, and with the hydraulic powered jack / stand. I don't need any pry bars / pieces of wood etc. GIve me a break, I'm not saying the mount is bad, but I would not put it in the easiest mount category. Not much easier than pulling up, dropping the blade, putting down the hydraulic jack and pulling out the pins. Done. If it takes you more than thirty seconds, you did it wrong. Put it back on, the same thing in reverse. If you have a load or whatever on your truck, simply pull up close enough to plug in the power supply and use the hydraulics to raise or lower the mount. I used to own a western that I had to pry / leverage etc. it worked, but with all of the technology goinig into building better plows these days, you'd think there would be a better answer than "Here's you 4 ft pry bar to go with that plow you just purchased" _(Steps down from soapbox)_

Anyway, sorry for getting off the topic.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

I do not own a BOSS nor have I tried one. I am not questioning how it works. I just stated that I have heard from John and others that parts fell off. I think having small parts on the front of the truck that may fall off is not the best idea. It may be a great system but will it hold up???

I am sure the mount works otherwise BOSS would not sell it.

He was asking about Fisher. Of the plows I have 3 Fishers, One Meyer and one Diamond, as well as the Westerns I have tried, the Fishers are by far the easiest. I never have to use a pry bar or 2x4. Just leave slack in the chain by lowering the cylinder. drive in and push the headgear up. Simple. No small parts, nothing to fail. I always like the Fishers even the old style kept the pins in the plow. With most others there is always something to drop into the snow or fall out when you do not expect it. My Fishers are abused. Scratched, dented, repainted, and worked hard they still hook up and unhook as easy as the day I got them.

The new MM2 from Fisher will supposedy be even easier. Bigger receivers and lighter weight should be even better.


----------



## Ohiosnow (Sep 20, 2001)

*CT18*

Then just ask John about the pins it's not a big deal with the mount as it is just a part of the lever to engage the main pin. And will hold up just fine IMO. It's still the same mount as it has been for years but now it has been made easier. I'll drop it now OK


----------



## Jim00 (Feb 7, 2002)

*Thanks!*

Hey Guys, thanks for all your input and ideas. I guess I didn't get the lift bar with the plow. I saw a picture of it in the owners manual, and it makes reference to the lift bar, but I didn't realize it should've come with the plow.

I bought the plow used, so I'll have to improvise, adapt, and overcome

I'll be picking up some dielectric grease at VIP next time I go to town.

What a great website!

Thanks again,

--Jim00

Maine - The Way Life Should Be


----------



## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

Ok I'll try again. Can one of y'all please explain this "lift bar" that keeps getting mentioned? Thanks. 

I've seen the Curtis & the Boss plows & watched them be hitched & unhitched. They are definitely quicker & easier than the Fishers Westerns & Meyers that I'm familiar with. I've heard that new Western mount is supposed to be incredibly fast & easy also I've seen them but not hitching & unhitching, so I can't judge that.


----------



## JD PLOWER (May 18, 2001)

BRL, I wish I was a little more computer literate, I would post a link to the page but since I can't just go to the fisher site under owner's manual then zip down to page 21 of the first manual you come to and there you'll find an illustration of the whole setup. If it was day light I'd take a picture of mine and post it  .

The name Fisher uses is "release rod", fancy name for metal pipe with a bolt welded to the end.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Just a long bar that comes with the plow. Supposed to be used to help in lifting the headgear and line the pins up.

Mine are now sitting in the corner of my shop.


----------



## JD PLOWER (May 18, 2001)

http://www.fisherplows.com/pdf/21850_071500.pdf
I guess I'm learning  .


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

The BOss does mount up so easy,it very nice.I still havent mastered the side to side alignment when i pull in yet,It takes me longer to get the truck lined up,than to install the plow.The pins that broke were easy to replace,they were just 1/4" roll pins,it shouldnt have happened,but thats a whole 'nother story,we wont go there now.


----------



## nsmilligan (Dec 21, 1999)

The first secert is as mentioned, push the triangle lift plate ALL the way down before diconnecting the electric plugs. What I do is put my shoulder against the light bar and push while removing the pins, I think I used the pry bar that came with the plow once!
Here's where it can get more interesting. The truck was empty or full of salt or sand, when the plow was removed, and now the truck is full or empty when you go to re-hitch the plow. If the plow mounts are too high lenthen the safety chain and pull back on the light bracket , this will lower the mounts a few inches and the truck mounts will slide in. If the plow mounts are too low tighten the safety chain while pulling forward on the light bracket and reattach the chain, this will hold the head gear forward and raise the mounting brackets, drive the truck into the mounts. Now it takes a lilltle grunt to push on the light bracket with your shoulder, while pulling on the release lever for the foot, this will raise the headgear, and allow the pins to line up. If the truck is not square, just hook the one pin that will line up , and drive the truck a few inches forward with the wheels turned hard toward the side that the pin is hooked, this will push the other side in and allow the pin to be hooked up. Remember the safety chain is used to hold the head gear when the truck is not attached. It really is a Minute mount with a little practice.

Bill


----------



## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

Thanks JD. My owner's manual doesn't show or mention it, so I'm wondering if that's an "improvement" they came out with in the last 6-8 years. Or I'll have to find the guy I bought this truck from 3 years ago & complain that he didn't sell the complete plow  So it seems that it's just a pry bar in case you need to adjust the headgear? Or is it more complicated - what is the purpose of the welded on bolt? I'll guess that you can then stick that bolt into the holes for the jack & pry against that? Thanks for the help. 

Actually it used to take me many minutes to mount it , but since figuring out some of these hints over the years, I've got it down to about a minute. I have a gravel driveway or its in the uneven dirt or grass of the back yard, so I always blamed my troubles on those facts LOL. Until I actually took the time to analyze the situation & figured out to lower the lift cylinder. And even better this year, I over hauled the whole hydraulic system and made the hoses longer (replaced all hoses, fittings, the pump, cleaned valve body - still moves s l o w LOL, but its not leaking oil here & there anymore at least). So if I forget to lower the cylinder, I can hook up the hoses at least to lower it, instead of pulling the floor jack out for the hook up process.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

You have the old belt drive system. You can mount a smaller pulley if you want to speed up the system.


----------



## thelawnguy (May 20, 2001)

Without the bar its a PITA to take the tension off the pins to release the plow. Hooking up is usually no problem, just stand on the a-frame and as mentioned push the headgear back til it clicks the pins in, or move the truck to align everything. But when removing its easier to insert the pointy end into a hole in the jack push down and pull the pin. Or hook the bolt into the pin handle and pry it out.


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

While I usually store my plows inside my garage, once in awhile I take them off on the gravel drive or snow. Then, I put a piece of 3/4" plywood framed by 2x2s under the jackstand. Keeps it from sinking into the gravel or snow. Just make sure you don't push the stand off the frame while driving into it.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

It is really leaving me dumbfounded that everyone has such a problem. I just jiggle the headgear (yes that is a technical term) and the pins pull easily. No need to pry or force. If something is that stiff or stuck you may not have everything set correctly. Just disconnected the plow on my dump this morning as I need the truck this weekend. Took about 30 seconds from when I got out of the truck till the last plug was pulled.


----------



## JD PLOWER (May 18, 2001)

BRL, yeah I think you should find that guy ASAP  . 
I had the "old" hydraulic MM on my 95 and it was easier to deal with just because it had less weight to move around when mounting or removing (no electric pump on the headgear). NS I've done the "bodycheck" to the headgear on several occasions myself  .

My personal opinion on the MM is that Fisher kept it simple. No electrical connections. No hydraulic rams or lifts that could, at some point fail and be something you'll have to fix. It does require more effort, but thats the price you pay


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Interesting - all this time I'd been disconnecting the hard way by prying out the pins and letting the jackstand connect at the next lower setting as it fell. I had both plows (7.5' and 9') hooked up today putting them away. So I tried lifting the headgear to see if the jack would set to the next HIGHER holes. Worked like a charm. Then I could use my shoulder against the headgear frame to lift slightly, taking the pressure off the pins which then slid out. 

Amazing the things you can learn on a site like this. I should have stopped with just putting them away. I decided I needed to test how well they'd push piles that had frozen. Ran the one ton up the bigger pile and got it stuck. Finally got it loose, so decided to use the 1/2 ton on the smaller pile. Got it stuck, too. Bad enough that I had to use the 1 ton to pull it out. Oh well, I'd been looking for something to do all morning.


----------



## BRL (Dec 21, 1999)

Man hearing that let's us know just how bad we need snow. Pushing old piles just to use the plows LOL. I passed an industrial park way off the side of a highway I was on this morning, that still had snow piles. Our last snow was January 19 and even the biggest piles from that melted away 2 weeks ago. I trhought wow that little complex sure had a lot of snow for any to still be there. My son said to me "maybe they have a snow machine there?". That made me remember there is an ice skating rink in there, and I bet they dump the ice shavings from the zamboni there, keeping the piles alive. Little 4 year old is smarter than he knows LOL

Well, I'm going to practice all of the little minute mount tips by hooking up the Fisher & moving it to the summer storage spot. I kinda dropped it in the middle of the back yard after the snow, assuming I'd be hooking it up again sooner than later. Now its time to get it outta the way & start some landscaping. Plus with the current drought, the lawn is nice & hard so we won't be putting any more ruts in it now. Thanks for all of the help everyone.


----------



## thelawnguy (May 20, 2001)

One lot I do still has some piles, only about 2-3 feet high. Some snow showers here yesterday, but since the trucks been sitting unused the past 3 weeks I took it out to keep the battery charged lol.


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

Mick,glad to hear you're using the bar now.If its done correctly,and the chain is loose,the pins should slide out without pushing on the headgear at all.So use the bar,pull it up one more notch,it those pins should slide out like btter,and go in the same way,on both trucks.I WD40 the pins every once in a while to keep the moving free,and I never have to pry,i just slip them out with my fingers,easily.You must be real board if your plowing snow banks,LOL.


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Bored??? I'm so bored that this afternoon I ran my route just to visit places I hadn't seen for a month. Then watched two hours of Star Trek (Captain Kirk vintage), Gene Autry and The Lone Ranger. I need some snow and there's none in the long-range forecast to next Sunday.


----------



## Jim00 (Feb 7, 2002)

> So I tried lifting the headgear to see if the jack would set to the next HIGHER holes. Worked like a charm.


So Mick,

How do you lift your headgear? Seems like the front of the truck is pretty heavy already. I'm thinking that by lowering the triangle piece to put slack in the chain, and pulling forward on the light bar, the jack stand would be able to go out one more notch ... once the jack engages in the appropriate hole, perhaps push the light bar towards the rear to put more strain on the jackstand, thus giving enough slack to pull the pins? Do you think that will work? 

Geez, if we'd just get some snow I could get more practice on the dang thing! 

I started at the Post Office this week, and I think I'll stick to it and snowplowing. My hours are 0430-1030 ... and I have the rest of the day to plow snow ... if only the sky would give some up!

--Jim

Maine - The Way Life Should Be


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Hi, Jim. You don't need snow to practice putting the plow on. When I first got mine, I had absolutely no idea of what to do. I'd never even sat in a truck with plow on it. I asked the guy at the dealer to show me how to operate it and he looked at me like I was from another planet. Finally showed me how the toggle worked. So in August here I am putting a plow on and off, over and over. That was when I broke the lift bar and threw it away.

So don't worry about it. Looks like you've got about nine months to practice for the next snow. 

Yes, put the jackstand down - lift the headgear till the pin snaps into the next hole in the jackstand. Now you should still be able to lift the headgear enough to take the pressure off the mounting pins using the lift bar or (like I did) using your shoulder on the headgear frame. Like John said - Grease them up.


----------



## graylawn1 (Mar 2, 2003)

*hit it hard.*

hit it hard.:realmad:


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Hit what hard? Interesting reading through this old thread, realizing how little snow we had a this time last year - pushing old piles of snow just to use the plows .


----------



## Jake00 (Aug 11, 2002)

*Old Thread*

Yea, hey Mick, how's it going? This old post even has my old user id. The snow is happening a little more this year, eh? How's business? Sorry about losing the accounts you mentioned earlier in the season ... hopefully they will see their folly and have you back next year!

--Jim :waving:


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Hi, Jim. Been going pretty good. I expect to get at least one back. Thinking about retiring at the end of this year and expand on the plowing.


----------



## Plow Dak (Jan 14, 2003)

*One Suggestion*

All these posts are great info for everyone. One has not been mentioned. When i disconnect i always drop the plow and run about 10 feet to my final resting place of the plow. This unloads the suspension and gets it in a more relaxed state. Weather it was a big truck or my Dak it seemed to take a lot of grunt out of unhooking or hooking up. Also i do it the same way all the time. I hook up first and then add my ballast. Remove my ballast and then unhook. Worked for me all these years.
Mike


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

Mike,thank yo for the tip,ive been doign that too,especially on GM IFS and Ford TTB trucks,they need to move the tires a bit as the the suspension raises up a bit.


----------



## Mick (May 19, 2001)

I got reminded of the ballast thing - again - last weekend. Unhooked the 9' plow to go load the 2 yd sander. Then came back to hook the plow back up.

Everyone altogether now - "Duh".

Fortunately, there was still enough slack I could get it hooked back up without having to use the jack.


----------



## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

After discovering this thread from the FAQ section and reading the replies, unless I'm missing something of context here, installing/uninstalling a Minute Mount looks to be like rocket science to some of you or enough effort for Fisher to rename it the 10-Minute Mount!!!

If you properly set the parking jack, have the lift cylinder collapsed with slack chains, you should hardly need to push against the headstock. That's the key. Pins should pull out more easily and no boards/pipes are necessary as levers.

*Here's a tip of mine:* I use those chain coupling links called "cold shuts" on my pull pin handles to ease things ever further. The eye or loophole of the shut slips over the pin's handle. You will easily get a gloved finger or two in the link to more easily grab on to than Fisher's dinky arrangement.

If the pins are greased and the parking jack is set correctly, you shouldn't be encountering a whole lot of resistance/weight to unload the mount's pins.


----------



## wxmn6 (May 23, 2001)

Roger Dodger - that's a great tip! I always had to fight with one of mounting pin which gave me a hard time - alot of time I had to get a helper to use the hook tool to pull it out while I pry it with a bar. :realmad: But that was on original MM model. My next plow will be Fisher MM2 and it is supposed to be easier to mount and unhook without using any tools.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Stevan I can't believe you had a problem with that LD blade on your Toyota. 

I have done a couple MM2s trying to see how they worked. They are easier then the MM but you still need to line up correctly. The important thing is to dismount properly, that will make attaching the plow easier. I like the mm/mm2 because it is not complicated like other plows are.


----------



## Roger Dodger (Nov 8, 2002)

As CT18fireman said the MM2 is a big improvement but if you follow the recommendations in my above post, you shouldn't be swearing, getting frost bitten, using pry bars, or visiting other snowplow mfgr. websites for a new plow!! (lol)

The only times I struggle with a Fisher MM is when I don't take the effort to pay attention and hastily unload the thing off the truck. Reattachment then, is difficult as well. 


wxmn6 -
I can't remember what size cold shut fits (3/8"??) but you may have to pry the shut open to allow it to slip over the L-shaped pull handles. You can then close it a smidge by using a C-clamp or large slip-joint pliers to prevent it from slipping off under movement. You'll find that you can pull the pins with much more applied force. Another benefit I got from it was to run a steel aircraft cable through both shuts and padlocking the end loops. This prevents someone from driving into the plow and stealing it since the springed pins are blocked from movement. 

Sometimes I come up with a winner idea, 
while other times I beat my head against walls! :crying:


----------



## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

A plow dolly or frame makes it much easier to remove and reattach any blade.Most can be made up pretty cheap.A small jack mounted to the frame will also aid in installation if the pins don't line up.

Back when we ran Diamionds and Fishers I would make up a tool to pull the pins.It was 3-4 feet long,with a small hook on one end,and a loop handle on the other.You could hook the pin,pull and twist,without ever getting near the plow.I still have one somewhere,I'll have to get a pic and post it.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

Used to get those tools with the old conventional mount plows. I still have them and use them. Easy to pull pins that way.


----------



## Brian Simmons (Mar 13, 2002)

the hook wyldman is reffering to is a P/N #3 hook which is still available.


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

You could easily bend a hook with a simple propane torch and some metal rod. 

The key though whether working with a minute mount or conventional plow of any make is to get the pins loose. At some point you should be able to get all the weight off the pins. With the old plows this was done using the lift chain and a block of wood under the a-frame. With newer plows it means getting the jack set right and haveing slack in the chain to rack the headgear. When done right the pins should only have the spring tension on them.


----------

