# 1998 K2500 8600gvw 5.7 v8 Noise when in four wheel drive while turning



## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

Hello All
I Have a 1998 Chevy k2500 5.7 v8. When I am in four wheel drive and I turn the front end makes a bad clicking noise on the drivers side. Is this the CV joint? If so How hard is it to fix this? anyone ever done it? Please help me. Calling for another 10-20" tomorrow here in the DC area.

Thank you
Soko Services Inc.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

Sounds like you are on the right track. The axle nut should be a 36mm and the 6 bolts on the flange are 15mm, if I remember right. You should be able wiggle it out by pulling the lower shock bolt


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

That is how we replaced the CV shaft on my 98 K3500. We undid the lower shock bolt and flange bolts and turned the wheel one way or the other and got the shaft out. We already had the axle nut off from replacing the hub/bearing assembly. It was actually easier than I expected.

Wayne


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

70monte;992367 said:


> That is how we replaced the CV shaft on my 98 K3500. We undid the lower shock bolt and flange bolts and turned the wheel one way or the other and got the shaft out. We already had the axle nut off from replacing the hub/bearing assembly. It was actually easier than I expected.
> 
> Wayne


I just ordered the axel assemblies from NAPA they were $111.00 each. So if i remove the 8 lugs from the wheel and remove the caliper and also remove the 4 bolts from the hub. Then what? how do i remove the Axel assembly? How long do you think i might have before they break?

Thank you for your help in the emergency we are experiencing now.


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

Any help would be appreciated!!


How do i remove the Axel assembly? Do i really have to remove the tortion bar assembly? the Shock mount? and the whole hub assembly?

How long do you think i might have before they break?


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## Evanbrendel (Jan 2, 2010)

70monte;992367 said:


> That is how we replaced the CV shaft on my 98 K3500. We undid the lower shock bolt and flange bolts and turned the wheel one way or the other and got the shaft out. We already had the axle nut off from replacing the hub/bearing assembly. It was actually easier than I expected.
> 
> Wayne


this is how you do it no removal of the t bars or hub.


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## Evanbrendel (Jan 2, 2010)

if its making noise it could be any time or it could be weeks no way to predict something like that


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

You don't need to pull the 4 bolts from the hub to change the CV shaft. I would leave it with snow coming, and wait for a clear stretch. Use 2wd as much as you can, and go easy in 4wd.


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

Well i will be carring the assemblies in the truck this snow incase something goes wrong. I can then ahve the part in hand an hopefully pull into a shop some where and have them fixed.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Good idea to carry them with you. It doesn't take long to change them if you've done it before. I haven't done one in ages. Put the weight to the truck and you can do most of it in 2wd.


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## CAT 245ME (Sep 10, 2006)

NICHOLS LANDSCA;992351 said:


> Sounds like you are on the right track. The axle nut should be a 36mm and the 6 bolts on the flange are 15mm, if I remember right. You should be able wiggle it out by pulling the lower shock bolt


That's right, I've changed several on these 88-98 GM trucks, when I did it, I removed the sway bar end link, unbolted the CV shaft ( axle nut & flange) it will slide right out, may have to turn the wheel some but it will come out. No need to remove the tire or anything else.

Very simple to do, it's beginners stuff. Just hate to see you pay a garage to do it.


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

Like others have said, you don't have to remove the hubs or tires. I also didn't undo the sway bar link. I actually took the shaft out from the back side instead of coming out the front.

Wayne


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

Well I paid to have it done last night. It was snowing and I dont have a lift and DIDNT want to mess with it. It cost me $150 per side to install. I had already bought the parts. 

So today its snowing. I put it in 4 wheel and make the turn to the left to test it and there the sound still is. WHAT NOW???? Universal joints on the forward drive shaft? I got under the truck and I shook the drive shaft and it has play in it, this is the shaft that goes from the transfer case to the front pumpkin.. The noise is only in 4 wheel, and when turning to the left mostly. Not sure what elese I could have wrong? 

Needless to say the CV joints were not the problem.. But in high sight the front axels were originial and have 150K HARD miles on them. I think I will let the BLIZZARD stop here in Virginia and in the next few days I will look at replacing the Universal joints on the forward drive shaft.

Anyother thoughts?

Thank you


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

If the u-joints have ANY play, replace them. But make sure it's the joints that have the play, not the transfer case or front axle. A weak axle actuator will cause front axle noise. 


Of course, your transfer case could be showing some wear, and be the actual cause of the noise.


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## IApushn (Feb 3, 2010)

I had the same thing just happen. Kept hearing a tick every time I turn. Couldn't find a problem with the u-joint and my CV boots didn't have the clamps on them so I changed them out. It was good to get them fixed but the noise kept up. I finally found a bad u-joint on the rear end of the front shaft and now it works great. Sometimes you have to get a large screwdriver or crowbar on the joint to see movement. Mine is on a '90 chevy and the joints only cost $11 at NAPA. The shaft comes out really easy, too. Four bolts on the rear and bolted u-joint caps on the front.


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

It appears thats the one that i saw the problem with. I was for sure the CV's were the problem, but after the storm were getign right now! I will work on fixing it. How long did it take you? did you do it off a lift? or the ground?


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

IApushn;994741 said:


> ..... The shaft comes out really easy, too....


As long as they've been greased regularly.....


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

I wouldn't worry about fixing them right now unless they are REALLY bad. Many of us are guilty of running worn u-joints on the front a little longer than we should have.....


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## IApushn (Feb 3, 2010)

2COR517;994745 said:


> As long as they've been greased regularly.....


Not to argue but I just bought this truck last year and it hadn't been kept up that well.

I did the work on the ground with no jack or stands. The hardest part was getting the bolts out of the plate on the rear of the shaft. They hadn't been removed for a long time and didn't want to turn. Once I broke them loose they would spin out by hand. I did have to take a hammer and a chisle and force the plates apart, too. As far as time, it took me about 30-45 min for the R&R on the shaft. The u-joint took longer to replace than that. I don't get along with u-joint replacement very often so I had the guys @ NAPA do it for me. They only charged me 1 shop hour @ $12 and I can't do it myself for that.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Getting the shaft out is usually the most difficult part, due to a lack of grease on the slip yoke.


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

SO I hear everyone say to mark the shafts. What parts am I marking? I hear it has to due with the ballance of the shaft.


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## royallawn (Dec 1, 2005)

i have the same problem, ticking. my u joints just got replaced. will have to do more checking.


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

Did the new u-joints fix the problem?


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## royallawn (Dec 1, 2005)

no, still there.


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## golfmanres (Jan 3, 2002)

did you do the CV/ Front Axels?


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## IApushn (Feb 3, 2010)

golfmanres;994769 said:


> SO I hear everyone say to mark the shafts. What parts am I marking? I hear it has to due with the ballance of the shaft.


You can mark each shaft where they slide together. It is a splined shaft that slides into a tube. You want to mark them so they go together the same way. They shouldn't go together any other way because there should be a small tack weld inbetween two of the splines and one gap in the tube for that to slide through. This is so the u-joints are lined up exactly. The yokes should be in the same position on both ends. If not, the u-joints will fight each other. Hope that is helpful. If you need more info, let me know.


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## IApushn (Feb 3, 2010)

royallawn;994785 said:


> i have the same problem, ticking. my u joints just got replaced. will have to do more checking.


I have been told that the ticking is usually a CV joint. That is why I replaced those first. Since you already changed the u-joints, it should be one of the CV's. I don't know a really good way to find out which one is bad. Maybe you can jack up the front, turn the steering wheel all the way one direction and lock it, then try to spin the tire. Don't know if that will do it but it might.


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