# Need help with tractor setup



## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

I have a Kioti DK 55 with a 8 ft push box and a blower on back. The tractor has been working good however I have some longer pushes that need to be done and its having a hard time. Last storm ended with rain and it was having a hard time making 100ft pushes or larger. It would loose traction and have to dump of to the side and start over. Real time consuming and end up not doing such a good job.

I think a good solution is to have a blade put on. My question for the tractor guys whats all involved in adding a few more valves to control the blade? I went with the box pusher because it connect easily with my quick attach and no other valves needed. Is it expensive to add more valves and a fish stick? Another pump?

The push box works excellent for clean up but not been able to angle the box is a huge disadvantage for bigger lots. I know there is the Kage system or a plow with sides etc but there very hard to find used and way to much money new for me right now.

I found a 10ft vee but I didnt jump on it soon enough. Thanks for the help, this site is awesome!

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=132006

Pictures of the tractor pushing small storm. The recent storm was about 6" and wet at the end.


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## snocrete (Feb 28, 2009)

Maybe adding wheel weights(front and back) or filling the tires(front and back) could fix this problem.?.?


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## Jacobsmovinsnow (Jan 12, 2011)

Ya got a blower on the back, USE IT.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

Blower is to slow, weight are an option 


What involved in adding a valve or two to the front?


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

You can just run hydraulic hose up the loader arms and to the back of the tractor. You would never install a pump or truck harness on the loader well at least I never would. Your tractor should have no problem pushing an 8ft box. Do you raise the loader when you start to loose traction until you blade is just touching the ground.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

I didn't mean install a truck harness, but would like to know whats involved to install more remotes for the front?
all my rear remotes are been used with the blower. Is it a big job to add more remotes for the front?

Yes the operator is adjusting the loader when loosing traction. It does fine in small pushes but the longer ones is where it has trouble.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

Also once the quick attach is hooked up can I detach the bucket hydraulics and use the loader stick to angle the blade?


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## snocrete (Feb 28, 2009)

Why would you not start by adding some weight to the front & rear wheels, before throwing a bunch of money at it with remotes/hyd lines? Adding weight would be very cheap & easy to do, compared to your other idea....besides, it appears a push box is much more efficient than a blade, according to the pics you posted in the other thread..?.?...


Something tells me if you mount an 8ft or 9ft blade, not add any weight to the wheels, you will get pushed around anyway when attempting to windrow(on the heavier snow events).?????


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

snocrete;1416689 said:


> Why would you not start by adding some weight to the front & rear wheels, before throwing a bunch of money at it with remotes/hyd lines? Adding weight would be very cheap & easy to do, compared to your other idea....besides, it appears a push box is much more efficient than a blade, according to the pics you posted in the other thread..?.?...
> 
> Something tells me if you mount an 8ft or 9ft blade, not add any weight to the wheels, you will get pushed around anyway when attempting to windrow(on the heavier snow events).?????


No doubt weight is an issue but will an extra 150lbs per wheel if that help the tractor push a full box through snow 100ft?

Also I can purchase a blade fairly cheap that would allow me to windrow allowing me to make the 100ft pushes etc..but from the responses its not the best way to go. 
Thanks for the responses I'm shopping for more weight, how much do plates go for? Is there aftermarket ones available?


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## snocrete (Feb 28, 2009)

cmo18;1417024 said:


> No doubt weight is an issue but will an extra 150lbs per wheel if that help the tractor push a full box through snow 100ft?


Maybe...Probably...Either way its going to help out alot, and would be well worth doing imo.


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## newhere (Oct 13, 2009)

your gona hate to hear this but if you bought new R-4 tires your problems would be gone. My 4720 deere couldn't move a 8.5 foot box full of snow move then 20'. I put R-4's on it and it just goes and goes with NO loss of traction at all. I just fly with the thing in high gear. 

On a few drive ways the wheels spin but im going up super super steep hills. I may have mine filled with beet juice and then i know it will be all set.


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## RAZOR (Dec 19, 2001)

cmo18;1417024 said:


> No doubt weight is an issue but will an extra 150lbs per wheel if that help the tractor push a full box through snow 100ft?
> 
> Also I can purchase a blade fairly cheap that would allow me to windrow allowing me to make the 100ft pushes etc..but from the responses its not the best way to go.
> Thanks for the responses I'm shopping for more weight, how much do plates go for? Is there aftermarket ones available?


If you filled the rear tires it would be more than 150lbs of added weight. It would be more like 500lbs per rear tire. Lack of weight is your issue. I had a 7ft pusher but was taller than yours on a 50hp tractor and I could push it full of wet snow without losing traction as far as I wanted. Get the tires loaded and you will no longer have any issues.


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## newhere (Oct 13, 2009)

fill them and add bolt on rim weights.


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## Jacobsmovinsnow (Jan 12, 2011)

cmo18;1416450 said:


> Blower is to slow, weight are an option
> 
> What involved in adding a valve or two to the front?


What make of blower do you run. Maybe then I will understand. Dont know if you out in the open but the advantage of a blower is that you get away from banking snow so when it drifts snow it wont dump it deep in your drive as the height of the banks. If its not designed like a Normand or Pronovost, I can see it would take to long. Get one witha rotationg drum and airmail over 50 feet away


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## grsp (Oct 19, 2008)

we have a kubota m7040 that has a blizzard plow mounted right to the frame. the main problem with having a pusher attached directly to the loader arm is that when you start to fill the box with snow, the resistance starts to push the front end of the tractor up in the air. then you start to lose the traction from the front wheels. not to mention that the steering starts to suck when this happens also. an accident waiting to happen. also, the risk of bending your loader arms is very high. so in my opinion, taking the loader arms off and mounting the plow right to the frame is a better bet. and then you don't need all those expensive extra valves. the great folks at Ebling make the frame mounts for the blizzard plow. but i'm sure any fab guy can mount any brand plow to the tractor frame. the one and only own fall to this setup is maybe not being able to stack snow as high.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

RAZOR;1417070 said:


> If you filled the rear tires it would be more than 150lbs of added weight. It would be more like 500lbs per rear tire. Lack of weight is your issue. I had a 7ft pusher but was taller than yours on a 50hp tractor and I could push it full of wet snow without losing traction as far as I wanted. Get the tires loaded and you will no longer have any issues.


Ive looked into filling the tires but its hard to find the right fluid in bulk that wont rust the rims out. Anyone know an estimate to how many liters a rear tire would take?


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

Called around today to try and purchase wheel weights and the Kioti dealer said there is none made for them. 

Any aftermarket ones out there?


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## newhere (Oct 13, 2009)

any good agriculture dealer can fill thouse tires. They dont use calcium chloride anymore, they use a solution made from beet juice so it wont rust the rims. All they need to know is the size of the tires to give you a price. Its not something you want to do on your own, it takes a special pump to do it.

you will be right around 500-600 to fill all 4. And keep in mind this will weigh WAYYYYY more then wheel weights and the weight is directly on the ground and not on the axle being transferred to the ground, this makes a big difference. If they dont make wheel weights just forget them and fill the tires, i bet you will be just fine.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

newhere;1418685 said:


> any good agriculture dealer can fill thouse tires. They dont use calcium chloride anymore, they use a solution made from beet juice so it wont rust the rims. All they need to know is the size of the tires to give you a price. Its not something you want to do on your own, it takes a special pump to do it.
> 
> you will be right around 500-600 to fill all 4. And keep in mind this will weigh WAYYYYY more then wheel weights and the weight is directly on the ground and not on the axle being transferred to the ground, this makes a big difference. If they dont make wheel weights just forget them and fill the tires, i bet you will be just fine.


I'm going to call around tomorrow. Most tractor shops around here send tractors out to get them filled and it seems like everyone around here still uses calcium chloride and are just adding tubes. How much weight am I looking at adding if I get all 4 filled?


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## IMAGE (Oct 21, 2007)

I don't know the volume of your tires, but it's about 10 pounds a gallon... so it adds up fast.


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## newhere (Oct 13, 2009)

i bet it will be over 1,000 pounds.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

I will let you guys know, I really wish I didnt have to use fluid. I got one flat tire already, cant imagine the mess!!


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## RAZOR (Dec 19, 2001)

Call local tire shops, many of them will come to you and fill your tires.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

RAZOR;1418871 said:


> Call local tire shops, many of them will come to you and fill your tires.


I see you have some tractor around the same size, and are from Canada. Are yours filled? If so with what?


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## RAZOR (Dec 19, 2001)

cmo18;1418882 said:


> I see you have some tractor around the same size, and are from Canada. Are yours filled? If so with what?


The tractor with the loader is loaded and the other other is not. I forget the name of the new stuff they use, it is called something like "Agri-lime". They put a sticker on the back of the tractor with the name of the stuff. They say it not corrorsive like calcuim.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

RAZOR;1418945 said:


> The tractor with the loader is loaded and the other other is not. I forget the name of the new stuff they use, it is called something like "Agri-lime". They put a sticker on the back of the tractor with the name of the stuff. They say it not corrorsive like calcuim.


What size tractor is loaded? Did it help alot? Are you rubnning tubes? All 4 or just two?


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## RAZOR (Dec 19, 2001)

The tractor is a Kubota L5740 with Ag tires, just the rears are loaded. The loaded tires are a big help for loader work and when I was using a pusher they were good. I do notice that the other tractor without the loaded tire is a bit faster on the road, maybe it is just the tractor or maybe it is because of less weight due to the tires and the loader.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

I'm getting mixed reviews from local tire shops about adding a tube before loading.

Seems to make sense to me to add a tube and the fluid wont touch the rim, but some of them are saying its pointless...opinions?

Rear tubes are $75 each and the front ones are $25 each

Each shop is anywheres from 480-900$ depending on if I want tubes and where I get it done


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Around here the product to use is called RimSaver....its a beet juice product that is not corrosive to the rim so the tube would be unnecessary. For my tractor which isn't all that big filling my tires would add 104 gallons of the stuff @ 10 lbs per gallon! Thats only the rear tires which is all I would do anyways. Cost was around $450 to have it done. The JD that a friend of mine owns that i used before i bought mine has the rear tires loaded and the difference is HUGE between what mine and his can do and both tractors are of relatively equal size.


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

mcwlandscaping;1419747 said:


> Around here the product to use is called RimSaver....its a beet juice product that is not corrosive to the rim so the tube would be unnecessary. For my tractor which isn't all that big filling my tires would add 104 gallons of the stuff @ 10 lbs per gallon! Thats only the rear tires which is all I would do anyways. Cost was around $450 to have it done. The JD that a friend of mine owns that i used before i bought mine has the rear tires loaded and the difference is HUGE between what mine and his can do and both tractors are of relatively equal size.


Unfortunately no one around here has heard of anything else.

Tubes or no Tubes?


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

cmo18;1420241 said:


> Unfortunately no one around here has heard of anything else.
> 
> Tubes or no Tubes?


No tubes!


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

Well I put tubes in all four wheels and filled them up with calcium. 1300lbs all together, the tractor rides a lot smoother now but I haven't had a chance to use it during a storm yet!

Thanks everyone


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## newhere (Oct 13, 2009)

what did it cost you?


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

snow storm coming tomorrow....very excited to see how it pushes in the snow 


cost was 575+tax with tubes in all four wheels and 240 gallons of calcium


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

I've never ran fluid in the front tires before on a MFD. I was always a little worried about the front end holding up. I hope it works well for you.


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## IMAGE (Oct 21, 2007)

cmo18;1426680 said:


> Well I put tubes in all four wheels and filled them up with calcium. *1300lbs *all together, the tractor rides a lot smoother now but I haven't had a chance to use it during a storm yet!
> 
> Thanks everyone





cmo18;1430573 said:


> snow storm coming tomorrow....very excited to see how it pushes in the snow
> 
> cost was 575+tax with tubes in all four wheels and *240 gallons of calcium*


Just an FYI, but something doesnt add up there. Calcium Chloride is about 11 pounds per gallon. If they were charging you by the gallon, they fudged the # of gallons... If you're sure it added 1300 pounds, then you got about 120 gallons.

But the price sounds reasonable considering it included labor and tubes. Let us know how it pushes!


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

IMAGE;1430709 said:


> Just an FYI, but something doesnt add up there. Calcium Chloride is about 11 pounds per gallon. If they were charging you by the gallon, they fudged the # of gallons... If you're sure it added 1300 pounds, then you got about 120 gallons.
> 
> But the price sounds reasonable considering it included labor and tubes. Let us know how it pushes!


5x 60 kg bags of calcium equals how much gallons?

I messed up the calculations


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## cmo18 (Mar 10, 2008)

JD Dave;1430636 said:


> I've never ran fluid in the front tires before on a MFD. I was always a little worried about the front end holding up. I hope it works well for you.


too much extra weight to turn? I think the front tires can only handle 150lbs approx each side


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## IMAGE (Oct 21, 2007)

cmo18;1431024 said:


> 5x 60 kg bags of calcium equals how much gallons?
> 
> I messed up the calculations


I don't know how many gallons of water it takes to make the brine. I'm sure others on here do thought. I just know that the brine is VERY heavy, and it should be about 11 lbs a gallon.


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## snocrete (Feb 28, 2009)

cmo18;1426680 said:


> Well I put tubes in all four wheels and filled them up with calcium. 1300lbs all together, the tractor rides a lot smoother now but I haven't had a chance to use it during a storm yet!
> 
> Thanks everyone


Curious to hear how much it improves it.....Good luck.


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