# Chevy 5.7 with slow oil pressure build when cold!



## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

i have been noticing that when i got out in the morning to start my truck it takes about 15-20 seconds to build any type of oil pressure. it kinda scares me because its a 92 and it knocks a wee bit before oil pressure kicks in. it is a 5.7 with 45k on it and fresh top end rebuild about a year ago and i didn't have any problems last winter like this. I'm only 10w40 Castro gtx with fram filters. it never does this in the summer just when its 32 degrees and below it take a couple seconds to build up. is this any concern or should i just make sure that i have pressure and that's all that matters? could i have a sludged up or clogged screen that i should drop the pan and clean it or is it just the cold?i just need this to last me through this winter and i can pass it down the road to the next person, so a Temp 4 month fix can be arranged if needed! thanks for the help I'm looking forward to get this solved.


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## bill7101 (Nov 20, 2010)

10w40 is a heavy oil to run and being cold it takes a bit to get into all the oil galleys in the engine block try putting a bottle of that stuff out in the cold for a day then dump it, it comes out like molasses could be that it takes that long to get the pressure to the sending unit.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Try some synthetic 5W-30 and a decent oil filter.


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

10w40 too thick.

And throw away Fram oil filter in garabge they are junk. Don't believe me then google fram oil filter issues you find lot people say no oil pressure for few seconds when start.


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## STIHL GUY (Sep 22, 2009)

thats a pretty thick oil your running there...next oil change try something else and see if thats your problem


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## JohnnyU (Nov 21, 2002)

I'll second the motion for a better filter. I've been running ACDelco filters and Valvoline 10w30 on my TBI350 since I've owned it without issue. GIve it a try and see what happens.


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## cssjim (Nov 18, 2010)

I have a 91 with the same issue. Has 127K on it. Run a lighter oil. I always run synthetic (me be picky), A quart of Lucas and get a good filter that is anti drain back. It makes a big difference. My old bones don't move to freely on a cold morning, neither does our trucks! Good luck.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

any one got a suggestion for a filter? im due for an oil change in the next 2 weeks anyways, so i guess good timing eh?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

the new boss 92;1151908 said:


> any one got a suggestion for a filter?


 Anything but a Fram...

WIX, NAPA, AC Delco etc.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Mobil 1 or K&N or both super high quality filters.

Lucas Oil Stabilizer is a great idea on a non-roller cam engine. I'm using the synthetic, especially for winter.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

B&B;1151925 said:


> Anything but a Fram...
> 
> WIX, NAPA, AC Delco etc.


Ok i always just get the oil change specials, 5 quarts and a filter so ill see who has the best deal excluding the fram filter when i go friday


2COR517;1152042 said:


> Mobil 1 or K&N or both super high quality filters.
> 
> Lucas Oil Stabilizer is a great idea on a non-roller cam engine. I'm using the synthetic, especially for winter.


i was going to start running lucas, them damn demo model's got me hooked on it(the thing with 4 gears and little crank handle) as i am always playing with them. ill see if my parts guy can hook my up with somelucas half price next time. arent the lucas quarts good for 2 oil changes?


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## KSikkema (Oct 7, 2008)

ever try cranking one of those lucas things after it's been left outside overnight? Worst thing you could do. There are a lot better products out there. Running lucas after changing to a thinner viscostiy oil will negate any effect of the thinner oil.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

Fram oil filters suck. First of all, I've seen kindergarten projects built to a higher quality. 

The biggest design difference is that with Fram filters-there is no check valve. On a decent filter, there is a valve that keeps the oil contained in the engine. Without that, all the oil runs back down into the pan. it will take a few seconds for your pump to replace all that oil without a check valve. 

I've read that 90 percent of engine wear occurs before an engine gets to its operating temp. This gets even worse if you start an engine dry because you put on a cheap filter. The cost savings don't work out if you look at what you are doing to your motor, and the cost of replacement of major components compared to a couple bucks on a decent filter. 

The tough guard fram filters look ok to me when cross-sectioned....still won't buy them anymore though.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

I've thought that about the lucas stabilizer too. The demo that they have set up-with the gears, shows how much better the stuff sticks. Looks good on the surface-but then you realize that the same effect would be realized if you simply put 80w gear oil on one of them next to a 10-30 oil. doesn't mean you should run 80w gear oil in your engine. 

I've heard it works wonders for very old, tired engines that can't build pressure and burn oil. But then again, so would 80w gear oil.


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## hitachiman 200 (Jan 17, 2010)

Your issue is viscosity and a cheap filter (fram). So you save a hundred bucks over the next 100.000 K (in your case 30,000 before a top end job) by using a cheap ass filter, how much did the top end cost? did you really save?....no me thinks not. All manufacturers recommend a lower viscosity (say 5w-30) in colder weather. it only takes 5 seconds to burn off any residual oil on the wear surfaces of a cold engine. Once that oil is gone you now have metal on metal which everyone knows is not good.


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## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

thats my though on lucas and col weather but then again everyone i talk to swears by that stuff!


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