# Recovery/Tow strap ????



## Sno4U (Dec 30, 2003)

I'm tired of the old rusty chain laying in the back of my truck and want to get a Nylon recovery/tow strap.
My biggest truck is my Dodge and when fully outfitted/loaded runs around 12,000 lbs.
Getting kind of confused as to how large/capacity strap I should buy. A 6" strap says its good for 36,000 lbs but has working load of 1/3 of that (which is where I need to be). I would probably need to use the strap as a "jerk strap" b/c a smaller/lighter vehicle will be pulling me out.:redbounce
So, do I get the bigger strap or just go w/ one rated close to my 12,000 lbs?


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## Burkartsplow (Nov 1, 2007)

Just dont get stuck and you wont need a strap. But going bigger is always better when it comes to tow straps. They are made for towing but when you start jerking on them then that is when they break and come flying back at you.


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## CGM Inc. (Dec 15, 2008)

...you can also help others! That is why I have a strap in my truck!


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

Click this link and scroll down to "recovery straps"...best you can buy :waving:

http://www.zips.com/Store_Products.aspx?CAT=117


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## festerw (Sep 25, 2003)

Burkartsplow;767528 said:


> They are made for towing but when you start jerking on them then that is when they break and come flying back at you.


Tow straps and recovery straps are completely different things. Tow straps are made for towing, not recovery unless it's just a direct pull. Recovery straps are slightly elastic to absorb the jerking motion.


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## Mick (May 19, 2001)

You're going to want a Recovery Strap for what you're going to be doing with it. Go by the Working Load Limit (WLL) which is stamped on it. Going cheap will get you or some else seriously injured or killed. They do cost some coin (actually bills), but this is one time you really do get what you pay for.

Just a piece of advice - ALWAYS roll your strap up and store it behind the seat. Don't just throw it in the bed, figuring you'll "do it later".


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

I'll keep all my rusty chains wherever they lay any day over any kind of strap.


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## Sno4U (Dec 30, 2003)

tuney443;767552 said:


> I'll keep all my rusty chains wherever they lay any day over any kind of strap.


Why? from what I understand, U can use a strap to sort of jerk the stuck vehicle out, u can multiply the weight of the recovery vehicle in your favor without breaking anything. Chains snap too (been there, done that). Chains get rusty, are cumbersome to drag out of the cab and have no "give" to them.
Thats why I'm interested in a strap. Educate me otherwise


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## Sno4U (Dec 30, 2003)

Mick;767549 said:


> You're going to want a Recovery Strap for what you're going to be doing with it. Go by the Working Load Limit (WLL) which is stamped on it. Going cheap will get you or some else seriously injured or killed. They do cost some coin (actually bills), but this is one time you really do get what you pay for.
> 
> Just a piece of advice - ALWAYS roll your strap up and store it behind the seat. Don't just throw it in the bed, figuring you'll "do it later".


I went to the zip site. What is "basket capacity" ?


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## Dustball (Dec 5, 2008)

I recommend this one-

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-...18&t_s=124&t_pt=5522&t_pl=1829&t_pn=EXP430000


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## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Sno4U;767630 said:


> I went to the zip site. What is "basket capacity" ?


You quoted me, but I didn't say anything about "basket capacity". Generally, in this type context, "basket capacity" would refer to the construction field where lifting is similar in stress to towing ( only straight up) where the stress is applied in an even pull rather than being "jerky" like you have with pulling cars/trucks out of mud/snow or out of a ditch.

I'd never heard the term "basket capacity" used in towing or recovery.

edit - I'll have to correct myself. I just saw the term "basket WLL" in an for recovery equipment. "Basket WLL" vs "Vertical WLL". That should be self-explanatory.


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## unit28 (Jan 1, 2007)

Sno4U;767630 said:


> I went to the zip site. What is "basket capacity" ?


It's what they will haul your dead ass home in if you snap a chain/rope and it zings you to the other side to visit the flying spaghetti monster.

--------------------

visit this for some good recovery info.


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## festerw (Sep 25, 2003)

unit28;767699 said:


> It's what they will haul your dead ass home in if you snap a chain/rope and it zings you to the other side to visit the flying spaghetti monster.


LOL, awesome I'm an ordained Pastafarian.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Sno4U;767624 said:


> Why? from what I understand, U can use a strap to sort of jerk the stuck vehicle out, u can multiply the weight of the recovery vehicle in your favor without breaking anything. Chains snap too (been there, done that). Chains get rusty, are cumbersome to drag out of the cab and have no "give" to them.
> Thats why I'm interested in a strap. Educate me otherwise


When I pull,whether it's truck to truck,truck to bulldozer,dump truck to backhoe,there most definitely is no ''jerk'' involved.That's kid stuff,dangerous,and plain stupid.I simply get the chain tight and pull evenly,that's it.Yes,of course it can snap,but at least you're not going to hurt a truck or whatever by jerking back and forth.If it doesn't move,go to plan B.Did you ever see a crane trying to lift something it couldn't and then try ''jerking'' the load to try and lift it? I would hope not,same principle applies.And rust doesn't really bother me on a chain,that's what gloves are for.


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

Agreed- never jerk a struck vehicle something will break, the truck or the strap.
I'll keepo the chains too. Tried straps- sand/grit kills them quick and it's tough to keep them clean and grit free in the sandy, salty snow (salt is grit too) and off road in mud. My chains are not rusty at all, they've been stored in the bed tool box for 10 years and counting. Just dropping them in the bed is how they get rusty.
They don't give, there no elastic recoil and there's no concern if they're covered in mud, snow, sand or what have you. They also don't usually fail unexpectedly without warning.


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## Mick (May 19, 2001)

Sno4U;767510 said:


> My biggest truck is my Dodge and when fully outfitted/loaded runs around 12,000 lbs.Getting kind of confused as to how large/capacity strap I should buy. A 6" strap says its good for 36,000 lbs but has working load of 1/3 of that (which is where I need to be). I would probably need to use the strap as a "jerk strap" b/c a smaller/lighter vehicle will be pulling me out.:redbounce
> So, do I get the bigger strap or just go w/ one rated close to my 12,000 lbs?


Also, calculate "resistance" into account and add to the vehicle weight when selecting WLL. Resistance - for example, is the force required to pull the truck through the mud it's stuck in. I forget how to calculate resistance - it's been years since I learned. Maybe someone else can help with that?


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## Dustball (Dec 5, 2008)

I was just out four wheeling yesterday at a local event. With all the ice and snow that was on the trails, there was no way you were going to pull anyone with a stationary start- nowhere enough traction to do that. Straps were a must and momentum was necessary. You cannot recover safely using chains in those type of situations. It's either getting a moving start with a strap or winching.


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## zabMasonry (Oct 13, 2007)

when using a properly sized strap, and some ropes (though not all). you should actually "jerk" 

Because a strap is like a giant spring, as you pull on it, it starts to store energy, this means that it can actually apply much much more force to the stuck vehicle then the pulling vehicle provides on its own. Jerking works really well in these situations, and the stretching of the strap should keep breaking things to a minimum. This is not to say that you can't apply the same force by just gently applying power, but in most situations its hard to provide anywhere near the same amount of energy by just pulling then jerking. 

ALL OF THIS SAID. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A PROPERLY SIZED STRAP OR ROPE. 

and never do this with chain's that's just stupid. BTW with longer lengths of cable the same holds true about the stretch


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## PTSolutions (Dec 8, 2007)

cables are a bad idea for pulling someone out if your jerking. your right about cables stretching, this is storing energy, but when it snaps, watch out! you could take someones head off. Why do you think alot of winch manufacturers are moving toward synthetic rope. they store no energy so when they break they dont fly back or anything.


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## Dustball (Dec 5, 2008)

zabMasonry;767905 said:


> ALL OF THIS SAID. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A PROPERLY SIZED STRAP OR ROPE.


Also more importantly, proper strong tow points on both the puller and stuck truck.


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## sp6x6 (Jan 14, 2009)

it is as dustball & masonry said, the strap allows a smaller rig to do more my gaining some momentum. The straps have to be sized right just as the chain does also, if pulled out numerous rigs with a combo of chain and strap, expensive straps get cut easily. I HAVE PULLED OUT concrete trucks, moving vans all sorts of big loads with a strap on my 1 ton power stroke, it weights 9000#s empty, I'll post pcts. of front. I hook Heavy chain to front in 2 spots on 3/4 clevis w/ strap in middle , spread the load .You have to have good solid recovery points, just look at any 4x4 type club rig. They get stuck on purpose and pull each other out.MY truck has same type front end w/ 12000# warn winch


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

ProTouchGrounds;767928 said:


> cables are a bad idea for pulling someone out if your jerking. your right about cables stretching, this is storing energy, but when it snaps, watch out! you could take someones head off. Why do you think alot of winch manufacturers are moving toward synthetic rope. they store no energy so when they break they dont fly back or anything.


True

I would never use steel cable for pull. Have one snap it hit F250's tailgate put dent like pipe cut tailgate.

I am sick buy new tow straps at Murray so saw one in catalog one that rated 30,000 lbs. Bought one it work great after about 15 times No tear or worn out. It was pretty expensive about $100 dollars.

For Chain I HATE. it jerky so hard. You could have bent hitch receiver after use chain. Worst is chain break and fly 100 feet away. Have that happened me with 95 F250 try pull stump.


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## Krieger91 (Feb 7, 2008)

I like the differences in opinion. 

Personally, I've used chains and strap, and I prefer straps. Less cumbersome and take up less space (for me) than a chain. 

I carry a 20', 3" recovery strap and a 20', 2" tow strap in my Blazer. I get it taught and pull. I never jerk it. That's a good way to break things.


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## rgnesda (Feb 19, 2009)

You guys that think you are going to pull somthing out without jerking are nuts and have obviously not pulled many people out of ditches or mud. How are you going to pull anything if your own vechicle is on snow or ice. For pulling cars out a slow rolling 3-5 mph jerk to get it moving then pull works great. If you have the right stuff you will not hurt anything. I have 2 different 3' 30,000 lb recovery straps. One is a "Keeper" the other is a "Explorer- Pro Comp". The pro comp one is awesome, it will strech several feet when jearking and it is really smooth. I pulled out a semi that was stuck in the a snow bank once and the driver thought i was nuts. I hooked up the strap and i was about 5 feet from his front bumper. I told him i was going to start from there and put the hammer down. It worked perfect, the initial jerk just got him moving then i just kept pulling and got him right out. He was amazed and gave me $40. Not bad for 5 min of work. 

I have just staticly pulled a few things out, but that only works when there is plenty of traction. 

The attaching points are the weakest parts. Never hook a strap on a ball. Straps with metal hooks are dumb and dangerous. Most stap ends will fit inside your tow hitch and you can put the pin through the eye. Avoid sinching the strap on itself, it will damage it and get it stuck on what you are pulling.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

rgnesda;768474 said:


> You guys that think you are going to pull somthing out without jerking are nuts and have obviously not pulled many people out of ditches or mud. How are you going to pull anything if your own vechicle is on snow or ice. For pulling cars out a slow rolling 3-5 mph jerk to get it moving then pull works great. If you have the right stuff you will not hurt anything. I have 2 different 3' 30,000 lb recovery straps. One is a "Keeper" the other is a "Explorer- Pro Comp". The pro comp one is awesome, it will strech several feet when jearking and it is really smooth. I pulled out a semi that was stuck in the a snow bank once and the driver thought i was nuts. I hooked up the strap and i was about 5 feet from his front bumper. I told him i was going to start from there and put the hammer down. It worked perfect, the initial jerk just got him moving then i just kept pulling and got him right out. He was amazed and gave me $40. Not bad for 5 min of work.
> 
> I have just staticly pulled a few things out, but that only works when there is plenty of traction.
> 
> The attaching points are the weakest parts. Never hook a strap on a ball. Straps with metal hooks are dumb and dangerous. Most stap ends will fit inside your tow hitch and you can put the pin through the eye. Avoid sinching the strap on itself, it will damage it and get it stuck on what you are pulling.


Like I said,you go to PLAN B!!!---I've been pulling out pickups,dump trucks,concrete trucks,block trucks,cranes for 40 years usually with chains,sometimes a large cable,but NEVER from a rolling start.That's just an invitation for something breaking or worse,a trip to the ER.Plan B means you get a longer chain so you can pull from harder,more stable ground,a bigger bulldozer,you dump your load if possible,and/or pulling from a different approach.Let's all be safe out there.


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## PTSolutions (Dec 8, 2007)

a big thing i learned from working in a machine shop and operating the overhead crane is how to properly place load straps when carrying multi-ton pieces of steel over hundreds of thousands of dollars of equipment. we almost always used straps but used chains when necessary, but our straps were awesome because they were abrasion/cut resistant and had to be b/c of the sharp milled edges on some of the pieces/fixtures.


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## sp6x6 (Jan 14, 2009)

The idea that is getting missed w/ strap is that you do get a rolling start, but you do not Jerk because the strap has give like rubber band and stores enegy to pull you out when you dont have a dozer at hand to do it. I use chains and straps, my chains are on the large size. I always hook to 2 anchor points on truck 3/4 clevis. I pull hard I'M NOT SCARED


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## 02DURAMAX (Dec 27, 2006)

I recomend this one, best ever for pulling someone out!!

74,000LB!!!!!!!!!!!

http://gotshocker.com/product.php?productid=16700&cat=160&page=1

or they have smaller ones if you like.


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## Krieger91 (Feb 7, 2008)

I swear, the way some of you talk, you'd be better off just buying a wrecker and putting a plow on it.

Not degrading or anything, just stating my opinion (before people bite my head off...)


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

02DURAMAX;768975 said:


> I recomend this one, best ever for pulling someone out!!
> 
> 74,000LB!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> ...


I'll put my 1'' dia. link chain up against that glorified fancy rope anyday.My hooks are app.18'' long--was used for pulling Traprock's barges on the Hudson River.I loan it out every once in a while for massive weight recoveries for like when a D8 does an oopsy.


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## justme- (Dec 28, 2004)

FWIW, there is tow chain and there is recovery chain- if you're planning or pulling things out with chains you want grade 80 or grade 100 recovery chain, not the grade 40 binder chain from the local hardware store.

And to those who scoff at us not jerking out stuck vehicles- Personally, I've pull out enough people without jerking anything and had little problem. First winter I had my Ram I pulled a stuck municipal truck (10 wheeler, salter body, loaded with a 10 foot wooden v plow) out of a ditch off the side of the road, UP HILL in over a foot of snow (big surprise why... the plow was stuck). No Jerking.
There's a lot to be said for knowing what your vehicle can do in what situations, and even more to be said for pedal control.

Every time I would say to my father he couldn't drive up that, or in there, or through that he'd do to show me it could be done, and HOW to do it. (In a stock 82 full size blazer no less!).

We followed a friend in a Unimog through stuff most people wouldn't think possible in a stock truck.

Don't close you're mind to learning another way to do something just because you do it your way.

If you want to carry a strap, go for it (been there done that, back to chain) just take good care of it and pay attention to how you attach it.

Incidentally, I would pull out with cable- but only the same cable the military uses to unstuck tanks- they're available surplus, good for 100ton wll. Other than that strap then chain. Cable can do a world of hurt to a body when it breaks. Mythbusters just did the cable cutting a body in half myth- no it can't, but it can sure cause internal injuries...


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## Tommy10plows (Jan 1, 2001)

Well, my choice is always a chain. I don't want some foreign made strap to snap and ricochet back and take my head off, or kill somebody else.

For those of you who like the "clean and jerk" method of getting unstuck, here is a reminder of why jerking a vehicle out of a snow bank is not the way to do it. Notice the slack in the strap before the pickup driver takes off in an effort the free the car.






When did you ever see a wrecker driver use a jerk method to recover a car? Never, because that is not the way they teach you to do it. Jerking is dangerous, and can cause vehicle damage.

Slow and steady is the way to dislodge a stuck vehicle. Or use a winch, or come-along to keep tension on with your vehicle parked high and dry, to pull the other one free.


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## Tommy10plows (Jan 1, 2001)

Actually, it doesn't take much power to pull a stuck truck, you can do it with as little as two horsepower.

What it takes is traction, and a chain strong enough to do the job.

Here is a low RPM, "go green" method of getting your vehicle unstuck.


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## Dustball (Dec 5, 2008)

Tommy10plows;770905 said:


> Actually, it doesn't take much power to pull a stuck truck, you can do it with as little as two horsepower.
> 
> What it takes is traction, and a chain strong enough to do the job.
> 
> Here is a low RPM, "go green" method of getting your vehicle unstuck.


I do believe I saw a jerk being performed.

Pulling evenly with a chain is the way to go *IF* the pulling vehicle has enough traction to do the job.

BTW, the video of the car with the rear being pulled off is not a good example- that's an example of not having a proper tow point, plain and simple.


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## sp6x6 (Jan 14, 2009)

That is why you jerk little rice runnners for the carnage, I PULLED a tuck out with my JEEP once, jerked him half way down a barb wire fence, his truck was new, when he stubled out to thank me I COULD THEN see why he ended in ditch and did not want to hang around


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## Mark Witcher (Feb 21, 2004)

The above posts bring up the obvious conclusion. Any one who prefers a chain or cable has not used a recovery strap. The stretch of the strap eliminates the damage to either vehicle when used as directed by the strap maker. And a strap will allow 5 times the extraction force of a solid pulling device. 

Also, a basket rating is when used in a lifting situation where one end of the strap or chain is attatched to the crane hook and then the other end is ran around the object to be lifted and connected to the same crane hook.


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## sp6x6 (Jan 14, 2009)

Exactly what i was trying to say. Helps you do more when you do not have as much tow rig or footing that you would like. E=M x V sguared


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

sp6x6;771191 said:


> E=M x V sguared


You sure you got that right? Energy = Mass x Volume (squared)


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## sp6x6 (Jan 14, 2009)

Energy = Mass x VELOCITY, squared, yes I am sure


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

sp6x6;771258 said:


> Energy = Mass x VELOCITY, squared, yes I am sure


I had to look this up because I thought you were on crack. I remember energy being measured as Weight x Height but that's for "potential" energy.

You were trying to give the equation of "kinetic" energy which is 1/2 Mass x Velocity (squared). So you were close, just missed the 1/2 part.


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## Tommy10plows (Jan 1, 2001)

Let me remember that formula when I am sideways on a hill with a 40 foot drop off.

Nah, I thiink I would rather just wrap my chain around a tree and winch myself straight again.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Tommy10plows;771681 said:


> Let me remember that formula when I am sideways on a hill with a 40 foot drop off.
> 
> Nah, I thiink I would rather just wrap my chain around a tree and winch myself straight again.


EXACTLY---I get the very distinct feeling that the younger guys here like the glorified bungee cord methedology{I just made up a new word I think},and the older,and yes, more experienced guys use chains,maybe a strap,but for sure,never try jerking a dead load out.And in that Stupid Tube video,that owner of the rice burner deserved to have his bumper yanked off---all they had to do was to put that strap on the pass.side{they did'nt want to fight the snow-stupid} and put the truck over more for a diagonal pullout WITHOUT jerking--just a smooth pull would have got her done.


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## festerw (Sep 25, 2003)

A strap does not have to be jerked, it can be used the same way as a chain. For me I'll use a strap, I'll take a smack from some nylon instead getting killed by a chain.

BTW there is nothing in that YT video that is close to correct, first they're using a TOW strap with hooks NOT a recovery strap, second they've just hooked it to the bumper cover so it wouldn't have mattered what side it was hooked to or how smooth it was pulled the bumper cover was coming off either way and third with as many people that were standing around they could have pushed it out.


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

I think these boys know how to use a strap


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Sorry,not impressed at all.They probably didn't even try to pull from a dead stop because they wanted more ''effect'' for their Hollywood debut.


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

tuney443;771959 said:


> Sorry,not impressed at all.They probably didn't even try to pull from a dead stop because they wanted more ''effect'' for their Hollywood debut.


I think you missed the point


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

We use tow straps to pull loaded semi's, combine's grain carts and anything else that has been stuck on the farm in the last 10 years, no jerking involved either. My dads 67 and he always says I wish they had straps 40 years ago when we didn't have 4wd because we use to get stuck alot more then. We have custom made 40 ft cables, 3/4 numbered chain and straps to choose from when stuck, everyone of us chooses the straps hands down, but we're just a bunch of hick farmers.


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## Grass Master (Feb 17, 2008)

I've used both, I prefer the strap its quieter in the back of my truck and IMO easier to handle. 9 times out of 10 simply tightening the strap is enough to recover a vehicle.


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## unit28 (Jan 1, 2007)

chain, cable, strap who friggen cares. They all serve a differnt purpose. If your a contractor that hauls big stuff around, you're gonna carry a chain. If Just a pickup doing driveways, a strap would be more beneficial 24/7.

In TX we use a rope


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## 02f250superduty (Oct 1, 2008)

SP6x6 nice rig. I am truly jealous.


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## zabMasonry (Oct 13, 2007)

couple o' things

first the equation for the energy stored in a spring (strap) is E=1/2K(X*X) where k is the spring constant and x is the distance from the equilibrium point. energy stored in momentum is 1/2M(V*V). This means that you can exert much more force by getting a bit of a head of steam going before the strap begins to tension. NOT TO SAY THAT THIS IS A GOOD IDEA.

I Personally prefer, when possible, to use a strap and a "come-a-long". I tension the strap with the come-a-long, until their is enough pull to get me unstuck.

-bz


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## Tommy10plows (Jan 1, 2001)

Years ago when I was a boy scout, there was a scoutmaster from another troop that had a willys pickup. He had an extra wheel for it, and on it he carried about 200 feet of aircraft cable bolted to the wheel with a hook on the opposite end of it. He called it his last hope. When all else failed and he was all alone in the woods he would take a wheel with a tire off, run out the cable to a stout tree, or a tree limb he buried three feet down, and use the drive of his truck ot winch himself out. Very creative, and very cheap too.

That is one of the things I always liked about being boy scout, you learn how to improvise and be prepared for all challenges. Compare that to today's kids. Kids today start crying when the power is out on thier computer games. Just imagine if these kids had to deal with a real crisis.


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

zabMasonry;772177 said:


> couple o' things
> 
> first the equation for the energy stored in a spring (strap) is E=1/2K(X*X) where k is the spring constant and x is the distance from the equilibrium point. energy stored in momentum is 1/2M(V*V). This means that you can exert much more force by getting a bit of a head of steam going before the strap begins to tension. NOT TO SAY THAT THIS IS A GOOD IDEA.
> 
> ...


Are you kidding me with that equation??

Now my head hurts!! Thanks a lot "Good Will Hunting" "Do you like apples?"


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## sp6x6 (Jan 14, 2009)

Tommy10plows;772448 said:


> Years ago when I was a boy scout, there was a scoutmaster from another troop that had a willys pickup. He had an extra wheel for it, and on it he carried about 200 feet of aircraft cable bolted to the wheel with a hook on the opposite end of it. He called it his last hope. When all else failed and he was all alone in the woods he would take a wheel with a tire off, run out the cable to a stout tree, or a tree limb he buried three feet down, and use the drive of his truck ot winch himself out. Very creative, and very cheap too.
> 
> That is one of the things I always liked about being boy scout, you learn how to improvise and be prepared for all challenges. Compare that to today's kids. Kids today start crying when the power is out on thier computer games. Just imagine if these kids had to deal with a real crisis.


They make a drum that bolts to a Basic 4 wheeler , then you wrap rope about 3 times around and the friction holds it, then you pull you elk or whatever up the hill. Pull limited to rope lenght


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## RODHALL (Nov 23, 2005)

Straps are for tieing down loads not pulling out stuck autos.

Chains and cables are for pullin out stuck autos...

honestly.............

go look on the back any rollback/ wrecker. you not going to sind a silly little strap you'll find chians and cables. why these do not stretch. chains and cables react the same every time you ise them.

if you have to use a strap to multply the pulling abilty of the tow truck... there is something wrong..... 

every one here wants to scream about insurance so you best make sure your insurance covers what your pulling on .......


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

RODHALL;772625 said:


> Straps are for tieing down loads not pulling out stuck autos.
> 
> Chains and cables are for pullin out stuck autos...
> 
> ...


Thanks for clearing that up. Why don't you read the OP's question.


Sno4U;767510 said:


> I'm tired of the old rusty chain laying in the back of my truck and want to get a Nylon recovery/tow strap.
> My biggest truck is my Dodge and when fully outfitted/loaded runs around 12,000 lbs.
> Getting kind of confused as to how large/capacity strap I should buy. A 6" strap says its good for 36,000 lbs but has working load of 1/3 of that (which is where I need to be). I would probably need to use the strap as a "jerk strap" b/c a smaller/lighter vehicle will be pulling me out.:redbounce
> So, do I get the bigger strap or just go w/ one rated close to my 12,000 lbs?


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## RODHALL (Nov 23, 2005)

JD Dave;772626 said:


> Thanks for clearing that up. Why don't you read the OP's question.


It is kind of hard not to read the first post in thread.....
he wants to buy a strap to use as a "jerk strap" to replace a in his words "an old rusty chain"

it not wise to replace a chain.... with a strap. if the chain is bad replace it, with another chain. Multiplying force can be done a lot better and safer then yanking… a continuous pull is safer. AKA learn what a snatch block and anchor point is.

Fortunately the towing and recovery industry has set standards to follow.


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

Hello sno 4 u, Just came across this thread and read all posts. I think guys are getting hung up on opinion and preference rather then anwsering your question. All of the above have valid points. the following are facts

1. A "recovery strap" ie a nylon type strap that is purpose built (and as such is expensive and not usually found at the local hardware) will allow a smaller tow\recovery vehicle free much heavier vehicles by storing energy then relaesing it. BEAR IN MIND JERKING VEHICLES DOES APPLY HIGHER LOADS TO YOUR ATTACHTMENT POINT EVEN WITH A PROPER RECOVERY STRAP

2. A strap that has a leather badge on it with a working load limit in vertical, basket, and choker positions are straps that are designed to be used for overhead lifting. They are essentially the same as chains in that they ARE NOT TO BE SHOCK LOADED OR JERKED. PERIOD. most of these staps have tell tales either coloured threads in the eyes or on kevlar slings small strands near the tags that only become visible when the sling has been shocked or overloaded.

3. Chains as used by the "towing\ recovery industry" are typically much higher grade then transport chain (as previousily pointed out in this thread) and can be used very safely as long as THEY ARE NOT JERKED OR SHOCK LOADED even if the chain does not fail they have no give so that stress will be placed into the vehicles involved that is when vehicles are damaged.

4. The main difference between Chain and a "tow" strap is personal preference as they should both be used in essentially the same way there should be no difference between the two technically. The reason the recovery industry embraces chain is durabilty if used everday 365 days a year a chain will hold up to the abuse they suffer rubbing sharp edges, gravel, snow, salt water, chaffing, etc.

This is where opinion starts

5. Comparing a recovery strap and chain I prefer both. This is when opinion and preference comes in. In both my 3/4 ton trucks one weighs 8600 loaded the other 10 000 I keep nylon recovery straps as they are used maybe twice a year and fit nice under the seat. When used I treat them like a tow strap at first and if neccessary hit at maybe 5 mph again as previousily pointed out there is a lot to be said for throttle control and momentum. If you need to hit something harder then that its time to consider a bigger tow rig, jacks, improving traction, snatch blocks etc. on the other hand my back hoe has nothing but chain in it as I am continually pulling on other equipment, stumps, rocks, timber, etc and a strap simply would not survive the abuse. Remeber that weight and traction combined witha steady smooth pull will win evrerytime JDDAVE will be able to testify to the fact that sending a 40 000 lb
tractor into the same wet spot that got the 30 000 lb tractor stuck usually does not end well regardles of what you are using(straps, chains, cable, etc)

If i have angered anyone nothing personal. I am a millwright by trade and spent my apprenticeship with a rigging and machine moving company routinely rigging, hoisting and yes essentially recovering things that weighed anywhere from 1-300 tons. I am not saying my way is the best way but recovey\hoisting is like anything else much is to be said for experience which is usually gained by making mistakes. Just a reiminder that you can always learn, doing something for twenty years does not mean you cannot do it better. But the results of doing recovery incorrectly can be damaged equipment at best and deadly at worst. There are lots of great resources online dedicated to recovery\hoisting again as previousily pointed out lots of 4x4 clubs have good links one of the best ones I have found on line is at www.pirate4x4.com They have numerous articles on the subject including some US military manuals that are excellent(written in everyday terms and very accurate). The websites guru is very anal and does not post misleading info very often. hope this helps if you have not already made a deciscion sno4u.


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## Luke_P (Sep 16, 2008)

PS missed part of your question most recovery straps ratings mean the weight of the vehicle being recovered "A general rule of thumb, each inch of width will allow you to pull out about 10,000 lbs. So if I have a 3 inch wide strap, it would be rated to tug up to 30,000 lbs." taken from off roaders.com tech section. when using a strap rated for overhead lifting bigger is better (within reason) you will not damage a strap rated for 20 000lb (any strap approved for overhead lifting already has a built in safety factor and the stamped WLL takes that into account) with your 12 000 dodge so long as you DO NOT JERK IT bye


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## Dissociative (Feb 28, 2007)

i have a 6" x 35' keeper that said it was 80,000 rated and i haven;t used it yet....got 4 12ton shackels to go wit it also..

i also have a large chain too...i just never see anyone stuck.....kinda sad


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