# Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 torsion bar swap



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

Have any of you guys with ½ ton Chevy 4x4’s tried putting in torsion bars
out of a base ¾ ton into the half ton? I was talking to the owner of the 4x4 shop by me and he says that the only difference between the two is on a ¾ ton it has the 8 lugs wheels and larger brakes and different torsion bars with heavier rear leaf springs. The control arms are the same and the hex on the end of the torsion bars are the same. Has any body tried this? I’m tired of having my plow frame hit the curbs. I did put the re-indexed keys on the torsion bars and cranked them up, but it’s still not sitting level. I still do have the small tires on it, I know if I spend $1000.00 for the 33" tires will get me up another inch.

Thanks


----------



## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

you need to hit the big search button.

but yes easy swap. if you swap in 3/4 or 1ton bars you must swap the left bar to the right side and the right to the left side. the position of the index is off set diffrent on them to 1/2 ton stuff.

here is the t-bar decode sheet.


----------



## got-h2o (Sep 26, 2008)

And to add, all bars will fit......88-current


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

sweetk30;1156966 said:


> you need to hit the big search button.
> 
> but yes easy swap. if you swap in 3/4 or 1ton bars you must swap the left bar to the right side and the right to the left side. the position of the index is off set diffrent on them to 1/2 ton stuff.
> 
> here is the t-bar decode sheet.


Is the spec sheet you sent just for the 3/4 & 1 ton trucks? Do you think
the Max torque is the GVW of the front end? The 1/2 tons have two GVW's and 
the one my truck has is (if I'm remembering right) 3960 GVW on the front end. Where 
did you find the spec sheet?

Again thanks for the help


----------



## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

thats all bars 1/2 - 1ton and member b&b has posted it before. 

and most half tons run the 3900 range stuff.


----------



## the new boss 92 (Nov 29, 2008)

3980 would be the factory front rating!


----------



## acornish (Dec 21, 2003)

wow that is nice to know am thinking of adding a lift and was wondering if i could swap t- bars for a stiffer ride so this just answered my question --- cool thanks


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

The max torque rating does not equal the FAWR


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

Does anybody know on a ½ ton if I was to put the 4800 lb bars in would the front end be higher than the rear? From what I was reading on another post that the truck equipped with a plow package have the 4800 lb bar, is this correct?

This must be one of the first times that GM or any other auto manufacture didn’t make every part different. I would have thought that the ¾ ton would have had beefier control arms than the ½ ton and maybe a boxed frame. At least for me this is good, I’m going to have to crawl under and get the codes off the bars and make a final decision which bar to go with. This site has been very informative for me, I have learned so much about the plow business in the last 6 months.

Thanks


----------



## Mxrider069 (Dec 8, 2007)

The control arms are very different, climb under and 2500hd and a 1500 you will see a very noticeable size difference. And the frame between the two is also very diffrent. 2500hd frame is thicker steel and a lot taller than the half ton.


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

Just trade your truck plus the $1k you're thinking about dropping on T-Bars on a used 3/4 ton and get what you really want and need. It'll be cheaper in the long run. 

I've seen this done, time and time again. Don't try to make a 1/2 ton into something it's not. There's alot more differences between a 3/4t and and 1/2t besides the spring rates: Full floating axles, thinker/larger frames, bigger cooling systems, bigger brakes, bigger steering linkages. 

All that happens when you rig that half ton truck with heavier springs is you'll break everything else. When your truck bottoms out on stock springs, you're at your MAX GVW rating. When you stiffen the springs to prevent bottoming out, you're just allowing yourself to overload the axles, brakes, frame and everything else.


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

I knew it was to good to be true that the auto manufactures would make the same parts for 2 different trucks. I wish I could just go trade it in and get a 2500HD but that isn’t happening now. I’ve tried cranking my bars up a little but the drivers side won’t go up, the passenger side goes up with no trouble. I just want to get the front end up a little higher. If I just put the 4500 lb bars in do you think I would get another 1” or so out of them without cranking them up? Then maybe put some tall tires on it. What do you guys think?


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

I haven't read of any mention yet, but what are you doing for ballast?


----------



## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

fishgeek;1158301 said:


> Does anybody know on a ½ ton if I was to put the 4800 lb bars in would the front end be higher than the rear?.....


Stiffer bar does not necessarily equal higher ride height. The ride height is determined by the rotational index of the bar. The index is adjusted by the keys

There are many 1/2 tons riding mulch higher than one tons.


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

mnglocker;1158788 said:


> I haven't read of any mention yet, but what are you doing for ballast?


when I'm plowing I have 700 to 800 lbs of salt in the back.


----------



## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

i installed a set of bars for a guy in a short bed std cab. 

he had stock light bars in it. he went 2 steps higher in there and stock keys. it only got him about a 1" or so higher and he was running a snow way plow. 

he wished he had went more on the tbars. but like said its just a bandaid for a wana be 3/4 ton or 1ton truck at a 1/2 ton price.


----------



## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

fishgeek;1159779 said:


> when I'm plowing I have 700 to 800 lbs of salt in the back.


Where in the bed? If it's not BEHIND the rear axle, you're applying that weight to the front axle also.


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

sweetk30;1159906 said:


> i installed a set of bars for a guy in a short bed std cab.
> 
> he had stock light bars in it. he went 2 steps higher in there and stock keys. it only got him about a 1" or so higher and he was running a snow way plow.
> 
> he wished he had went more on the tbars. but like said its just a bandaid for a wana be 3/4 ton or 1ton truck at a 1/2 ton price.


I would like to get 1-1/2" and then I can gain an 1" or so with the tires. I just want to make it thru this winter and in the summer I'll get a 3/4 ton.


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

mnglocker;1160041 said:


> Where in the bed? If it's not BEHIND the rear axle, you're applying that weight to the front axle also.


I guess that's another problem I have the salt on a skid and it is up front more. I will have to cut a board to hold it at the rear of the truck.

Guys thanks again


----------



## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

If you do this, check your shocks afterwards, you may need longer ones depending how your torsion bars are adjusted.

On my 97 I swapped the bars to the GL coded ones and for about a year and a half afterwards i heard this banging noise over bumps. It was my shocks getting slammed at full extension because my ride height had been increased by about two inches in the front. Just another thing i learned by my own experience to check for when doing this kinda stuff!


----------



## fishgeek (Sep 10, 2010)

mcwlandscaping;1164251 said:


> If you do this, check your shocks afterwards, you may need longer ones depending how your torsion bars are adjusted.
> 
> On my 97 I swapped the bars to the GL coded ones and for about a year and a half afterwards i heard this banging noise over bumps. It was my shocks getting slammed at full extension because my ride height had been increased by about two inches in the front. Just another thing i learned by my own experience to check for when doing this kinda stuff!


thanks for the info I'll check it afterwards


----------



## rcpd34 (Jan 16, 2004)

I did this on my '93 SB Standard cab 1/2 ton years ago. All I wanted was to get the plow up a bit as it sagged the front end down even with Timbrens. I put the heaviest bars on I could find. It was all done for well under $1000 including labor. I was very happy as it did exactly what I wanted it to do. It will NOT make you a 3/4 ton; not even close. Everything I buy now is 3/4 ton or better.


----------



## ed39 (Oct 9, 2007)

i have an 07 1500 z71, z71 comes with stiffer bars then a normal 1500, with my keys and homemade timbrens i sit higher wayyyyy higher than a stock 2500 and it carrys the plow mint, and im running an older 7.5 diamond plow about 700lbs. i would of got a 2500 but i do to much winter driving to get raped on gas prices 5.3 dose 3-5 mpg better than a 6 liter


also dont forget to pump the tires up made a big difference in ride height wen i was moving the blade around in the off season


----------



## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

how did you crank the t-bars up on a coil strut front end 2007 1500 4x4 ? :waving:


----------



## ed39 (Oct 9, 2007)

Last year for the classic it has t bars


----------



## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

ed39;1173797 said:


> Last year for the classic it has t bars


and first year new body. you need to specify  thanks for clearin up .


----------



## ed39 (Oct 9, 2007)

haha sorry figured you would of assumed it was classic, but when all is said and done its still a 1500 haha no matter wat you do


----------

