# Fisher plow minute mount not mounting easy



## steff503

I am having a real problem getting my plow on and off. it seems real easy but it never goes on or comes off without fighting with it.
I can't find any videos of the process. The only videos i find are Minute Mount II, I have a minute mount.
I follow the instructions but it seems as though there is always too much weight on the pins to pull them out.
Then putting it back on the truck never seems to line up, it usually is too high for the pins to fit in.
I know i am doing something wrong or in the wrong order.
Please help.
Steff


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## peteo1

The mm1 was a PITA for sure. Make sure your plow is in float and the lift triangle is pushed all the way down. Then you have to push the headgear up while pulling the pins. We used to take a piece of 2x4 and wedge it between the moldboard and the headgear to help pull pins. The biggest thing is to place it somewhere that's fairly flat so it hooks up easily next time.


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## ppkgmsy

steff503;1688858 said:


> I am having a real problem getting my plow on and off. it seems real easy but it never goes on or comes off without fighting with it.
> I can't find any videos of the process. The only videos i find are Minute Mount II, I have a minute mount.
> I follow the instructions but it seems as though there is always too much weight on the pins to pull them out.
> Then putting it back on the truck never seems to line up, it usually is too high for the pins to fit in.
> I know i am doing something wrong or in the wrong order.
> Please help.
> Steff


You're not alone. The guys around here call it the "15 minute mount."


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## TJS

Don't know what you guys are doing wrong for MM1. If I get the truck lined up on the first shot and pull in, it takes me less than minute to hook it up. Have to be level and the triangle all the way down(you have to push it down from when you disconnected prior). This will allow you to walk in front of the plow and push the headgear towards the hood of the truck and as a result the pins will slide into their holes. I make sure the pins have grease on them.
Pretty easy peasy.
T.J.


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## Mitragorz

Yeah, when taking it off I just push the headgear back and forth while wiggling the pins. As for putting it on, everything lines up just fine for me. When disconnecting and I drop the foot, it's actuAlly between two holes when it hits the ground. The first few times, I forced the pin to catch the next-highest hole (leaving the plow slightly higher). That made it a little toughter getting it on. Now I just let it "click" into whatever foot-hole it wants to when I back up and I haven't had a problem since. 

But I do have a question about the triangle. Are you guys able to push it down by hand? I need to actually climb on top and do a little stomping to get it down. Not sure if it's supposed to be that tight, I bought the plow used.


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## 06Sierra

I have a three foot pry bar that I rest on the A frame and put the tip by the jack (there is a little lip there). A little push down on the handle and the pins come right out. Make sure you clean out any ice and snow on the A frame where the push plates mount. That can give you some headaches.

If it is in float mode, you should be able to push the triangle down fairly easily.


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## MetzEnterprizez

When I take mine off, I drop the plow, get out of the truck and leave the door open. I walk around the door and hit it to float again and walk to the plow and push the triangle down. Easy peasy. I also have a 12x12x2 inch board that I put under the stand and it falls right in a hole. I don't think I want anything else as this is simple.


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## leolkfrm

easier to leave it on the truck and drive something else!...lol


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## blueline38

*fisher mount*

I second the earlier post. Everyone that I know, who has a fisher plow, calls them a "15 minute" mount. I love the western mount!


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## quigleysiding

Simple once you figure out how to mount them.


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## Boyerlandscape

Used to be a pain. I got it down to a two min drill now. Drive up to it, push headgear up and manhandle the whole plow back a C H. so that it stays up because of the push plates. Hop in truck drive forward till it stops, pin (I use a framing hammer to persuade them in) plug n go. Removal is even easier, either a framing hammer again , pry between the pin n the frame...or use vice grips turn it back n fourth n it will work out.


I actually have my jack stand removed, kinda by accident BUTT it works even better. Use a floor hack where the jack would go to adjust height if you need to.


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## Snow Commandor

The key is to push the triangle down all the way before u disconect. That's easy to do if its in float mode. Rock the head gear to remove the pins & don't forget to lower the jack first. Once u master the right way to dismount, its a cinch to hook up next time. The key to lining up the pins is in the ability to rock the head gear against the truck. & don't forget to spray the pins down with some lube!
Its so easy a cave man could do it!


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## Mitragorz

I'm glad that I don't have the trouble that you guys do. I just drive into the plow until the truck just starts to push it, hop out, set up the pins, and push the headgear up. Done. Takes me less than a minute.


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## Snow Commandor

Mitragorz;1700669 said:


> I'm glad that I don't have the trouble that you guys do. I just drive into the plow until the truck just starts to push it, hop out, set up the pins, and push the headgear up. Done. Takes me less than a minute.


I don't have any trouble @ all! Its a breeze for me and I don't need no hammer or pry bar either.


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## MetzEnterprizez

Me neither. No extra equipment or tools. Ill have to time it, but I bet its around a minute for me to do it on and off.


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## Mitragorz

So here's how I do it. Be sure to go full-screen and HD for full immersion Thumbs Up






Easy!


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## YardMedic

Ok I have a gripe about the truck in the video. Why do people mount a lightbar to the roof when there's a perfectly good back rack designed for that application?!?

I recall the MM's used to come with a steel bar to lever back the headgear, taking the weight off the pins. Any old bar would do the trick


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## blueline38

Mitragorz;1703257 said:


> So here's how I do it. Be sure to go full-screen and HD for full immersion Thumbs Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy!


And in a perfect world everyone would have a garage so you could drive into a level plow while on a level surface every time. That, however, is not reality!


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## quigleysiding

Jeez . Do I have to make a vidio puting mine on now. Mine lives outside and it goes on just as easy


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## blueline38

quigleysiding;1703530 said:


> Jeez . Do I have to make a vidio puting mine on now. Mine lives outside and it goes on just as easy


Have at it. I just love when people make videos to show "how easy" it is but the videos are set in the perfect conditions (ie., paved driveway or garage).


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## quigleysiding

When I first got mine I had the same troubles. A friend showed me once. The key is to push the lift cyinder down. Once you know how its done its very simple. If you are going to drop it in the mud you might want to put some wood or something under the jack.


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## Mitragorz

YardMedic;1703492 said:


> Ok I have a gripe about the truck in the video. Why do people mount a lightbar to the roof when there's a perfectly good back rack designed for that application?!?


It could be on the truck before they put the back rack on, and they just didn't feel like moving it and leaving holes in the roof or gutters.

But mine wasn't on there . When I bought it, it had a little, dinky, strobe on top and I'm a full lightbar kinda guy. But the problem I ran into was that I already had 2 6" flood lights mounted on the back rack:










I don't think the back rack brackets would have cleared those lights. I'd have had to fab something up that either raised the light bar above the work lights (which would look absurd!) or brought the light bar forward over the cab. I had the gutter mounts anyway, so I just used them instead of fabbing something up myself.



blueline38;1703557 said:


> Have at it. I just love when people make videos to show "how easy" it is but the videos are set in the perfect conditions (ie., paved driveway or garage).


You sure whine a lot. As Peteo said:



peteo1;1688893 said:


> The biggest thing is to place it somewhere that's fairly flat so it hooks up easily next time.


If you want to be able to hook up your plow "perfectly" then you'll have to park it in a "perfect" spot I guess. Then you'll see "how easy" it is. But you already saw "how easy" it is... You watched the video. Or at least enough of it to see that it was done in "perfect" conditions. You seem to have a distaste for things like that, so I wouldn't be surprised if you didn't watch it through to the end.

If you park your plow in a crappy spot, you'll obviously have a crappy time mounting/dismounting. I'd just find a way to level the plow, either by making a small platform for it, making some shims out of 2x4 to stick under it before I drop it, or leveling a portion of my yard and dropping it there.

But you're right, some of us are truly blessed to have access to level ground.


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## Mitragorz

The point of my video was to show how I push the headgear up to take tension off the pins so you can remove them without a pry bar. If I DIDN'T push the headgear up, there's no doubt I'd need a pry bar. Even in my perfect spot.

It wasn't a bragging "ha, you guys are idiots if you can't do this" video. Maybe someone didn't think to sit their ass on the plow for more leverage when pushing the headgear up. I dunno, maybe something would've clicked for someone after watching.


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## justme-

I had a heck of a time the first season with my MM1 after using a conventional Speedcaster... but since I got the hang of it it's a breeze on and off. The bar Fisher gave with the MM1 is totally unneeded... infact I have never seen one except in the parts diagram.

Everyone in here describes the same procedure, which is the same thing Fisher wrote in the OM... and it works if you follow it.
The only time I have trouble is lining up the plow the first time for the season, or if I'm having a particularly bad time... might need 2 try overs... once it's lined up it's nothing. If you're dropping the plow off on soft ground put boards under it to prevent sinking in, don't drop it anywhere you will have trouble getting back to line it up, and don't wait until there is 8 inches of snow on the ground before trying to put it on... it will be low. I rarely worry about grease on the mounting pins in that sense either... the holes are more than large enough and if you have the push plate and plow frame mated the tail of the frame becomes a pivot in the push plate when you push back on the headgear.

once the lift arm is fully lowered (yes, I need to put my body weight on it to get it down too.. always have.) as long as you push back on the headgear BEFORE you release the jack leg the height will be correct. My truck I drop the jack leg and it will not lock in until I push the headgear back. Then push back on the headgear and pull the pins... sometime you need to wiggle the headgear and pull on the pin but I have NEVER needed pry bars, pliers, hammers, hydraulic excavators... nothing but hands to pull them. I prefer to stand in front of the blade and push back on the bar behind the lift arm to set the jack leg, and use my shoulder against the par the light mounts to to push back while I bend down to pull the pin. 

Putting it on is slightly more difficult. Once lined up and ears are in the plow frame, I twist the pins to release them and push backfrom under the lights on the mount to line them and let the pin click in. if it's out slightly and won't go in usually I can grab the moldboard and slide it toward the truck an inch or so since I normally put a couple boards or section of plywood under the edge and foot to keep from freezing to the ground or chiseling the jack leg out of the frozen mud. If the are both lined up and just need to be pushed back I will release the pins and push from the center above the lift arm, again standing in front of the blade.

Most of the time the plow may seem higher then the truck, but it's just leaning too far forward - toward the plow and not standing up toward the truck.
Now, the first time I took a MM2 off a truck I dropped it without lowering the jack leg without thinking....


incidently, my plow lives on a dirt/stone driveway. Previous residence it was in the front yard on the dirt where I parked as there was only 1 paved driveway. I think I have only taken the plow off on pavement once I have owned it. Surface makes no difference if you pay attention, so complaints about "ideal conditions" like in the video above are unrelated.


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## quigleysiding

Fisher has a bar . My brother in law has one. Its the only one ive seen. It came with his mm1. You stick it in the jack and pry the headset up . He said he uses it wnen he takes the plow off. It takes the presure off the pins,


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## FisherVMan

*Its just like training a dog..........*

Trouble is that you must be smarter than the dog is...........:laughing:
Anyway people have had problems with Minute Mount plows for many years now ............... both the I and II . And the basic reason for this is two things , first the plow isn't *level*. 
So do yourself a big favor and don't drop it to "_take it off_" unless it is . However it doesn't need to be in heated garage or in perfect conditions but it does need to be somewhat level.................. simple as that , if you are going to unhook it in a ditch or somewhere a bubble off level, then ANY plow gets tricky to hook up, of course the headgear needs to be all the way down and that is a must. We were on here years ago arguing about this and I got tired of all the bs and made a video in my front yard of us hooking up an Xtreame V that was droped off in a fairly level spot, I don't think it was too awful tough to get it back on . I can put a I on as easy as a II but having had a Fisher plow since the mid 1970s of course I know what it should look like and what to do if it isn't going to go easy , like anything you have to know more than the plow does.................

For interest sake I do actually have a bit of a Boss on my Fisher, the little antenna that goes on the grill and the crosshair decal that goes on the back of the headlamp, when the tip of the antenna is in the center of the crosshairs , I can pull into the plow "dead center"everytime, and again it doesn't need to be "perfect conditions either.

Here is a trick that very few folks seam to know about concerning a fisher plow, if before you ever try to put it on it is obvious that the pins are NOT within a bulls roar of going as one side is way off from the other side, [higher or lower because you have droped it somewhere it is NOT level] there is no sense in even trying it that way you are going to need to get the aframe level, some instead of pushing your guts out on it, or getting out a jack, and getting yourself all frothed up,
Simply back in under the headgear plate and put the top of your back against it , if my plow sinks into the mud in the spring after I unhook it , I can easily lift mine with my back by raising up up to say TWO pin widths , so if your out say two inches just go ahead and pop the pin in that is going to go easy as you lift the headgear , then walk back to the side that is WAY off and simply back in under the headgear and lift up with your back pushing against it and because the pin is already under preasure from the spring trying to force it , the second it goes by the hole it will "click" right into the holes. DONE............. again you have to understand it.


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## watson524

I don't have a problem getting mine on, drive into pin area, release pins, push back on headgear and pins pop in (I keep them well oiled). Getting mine OFF is an issue. I can never get the darn triangle to go down. This is parked in a level garage with the blade coming down on 2 pieces of plywood to protect the floor. I drive in, drop it down and it takes strength less than required to wrestle a bear to get the triangle down most times. Maybe 1 out of 10 it goes down nice and easy like it should.


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## FisherVMan

*Somethin aint right , hummmmm*

There are some darn good plow techs on here that know them frontwards and backwards and I am sure one will chime in here and get to the bottom of this ??????????? That triangle should return all the way down by it self, you shouldn't have to even push that down I don't think??? Mine goes right to the bottom all by itself???? Not sure why yours is hanging up like that??
A lot of times once that is down and you pull the handle even if everything is right it still helps to push up on the headstock at the same time you pull all the way out with the handle so there is NO PREASURE on the pins as your pulling it ?????? But unless the headstock is all the way down you are going to have a bugger of a time ever getting that to release, and to move the headstock you would have to be lifting the weight of the plow???? That aint right Watson.............................


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## Snow Commandor

FisherVMan;1713346 said:


> There are some darn good plow techs on here that know them frontwards and backwards and I am sure one will chime in here and get to the bottom of this ??????????? That triangle should return all the way down by it self, you shouldn't have to even push that down I don't think??? Mine goes right to the bottom all by itself???? Not sure why yours is hanging up like that??
> A lot of times once that is down and you pull the handle even if everything is right it still helps to push up on the headstock at the same time you pull all the way out with the handle so there is NO PREASURE on the pins as your pulling it ?????? But unless the headstock is all the way down you are going to have a bugger of a time ever getting that to release, and to move the headstock you would have to be lifting the weight of the plow???? That aint right Watson.............................


If your lift triangle is collapsed all the way down when u drop the blade to the ground on level ground then u need to slacken your chain! If u are on level ground then the triangle should sit level with the ground when the blade is lowered. This is necessary in order for the plow to float when you are plowing uneven ground. U need @ least 2.5" of lift ram extention when the plow is lowered on level ground. Without that the plow cant drop below the level of the truck itself. If the triangle doesn't go down easily I stand in front of the blade and use my foot horizontally on the chains to make the triangle go all the way down.


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## myzx6

FisherVMan;1713346 said:


> There are some darn good plow techs on here that know them frontwards and backwards and I am sure one will chime in here and get to the bottom of this ??????????? That triangle should return all the way down by it self, you shouldn't have to even push that down I don't think??? Mine goes right to the bottom all by itself???? Not sure why yours is hanging up like that??
> A lot of times once that is down and you pull the handle even if everything is right it still helps to push up on the headstock at the same time you pull all the way out with the handle so there is NO PREASURE on the pins as your pulling it ?????? But unless the headstock is all the way down you are going to have a bugger of a time ever getting that to release, and to move the headstock you would have to be lifting the weight of the plow???? That aint right Watson.............................


I'm thinking that you are talking about a mm2 from the sounds of it


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## watson524

Snow Commandor;1713492 said:


> If your lift triangle is collapsed all the way down when u drop the blade to the ground on level ground then u need to slacken your chain! If u are on level ground then the triangle should sit level with the ground when the blade is lowered. This is necessary in order for the plow to float when you are plowing uneven ground. U need @ least 2.5" of lift ram extention when the plow is lowered on level ground. Without that the plow cant drop below the level of the truck itself. If the triangle doesn't go down easily I stand in front of the blade and use my foot horizontally on the chains to make the triangle go all the way down.


I'll have to take a look when I get a few minutes tho float never appeared to be an issue for me. We have a bit of a dip down at the end of the one driveway I deal with and when I plow across the road (I own both sides and clean up the road and all) the plow follows the contour as far as going with the swale down and up onto the road. Same when I plow at my mother's with the blacktop. If I don't lift up on the plow at the top of the driveway, it'll drop down off the blacktop at the top edge so it's floating with the contours of the driveways.


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## NEhomer

Mitragorz said:


> So here's how I do it. Be sure to go full-screen and HD for full immersion Thumbs Up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy!


Hey man, I recently got a Fisher with the original minute mount and was having a bit*h of a time getting the pins to release. Then I found this vid that you posted years ago and by sitting on the blade and lifting the headstock independently on each side the pins slid out in a jiffy.

Can't thank you enough! Have a great plowing season~

John in Great Barrington, MA


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## jonniesmooth

blueline38 said:


> Have at it. I just love when people make videos to show "how easy" it is but the videos are set in the perfect conditions (ie., paved driveway or garage).


Why would you do it somewhere the conditions aren't perfect?


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