# blizzard snow plows



## c_maint (Jan 25, 2002)

has anyone ever heard of this brand or own one?
it looks like a good setup.


----------



## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

I went on there web site and got a video on it.Seams like a good unit but the video didn't really tell me about the mounting or how they do the maintence.


----------



## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

Couple of recent threads on the subject:

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=5128&highlight=Blizzard

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?threadid=4451&highlight=Blizzard


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

Check the two threads 75 gives. I bought one this season but only have two storms experience with it, I love it so far. If you have any questions, give a holler. How far upstate are you?

Here's another thread to look at:Blizzard thread


----------



## c_maint (Jan 25, 2002)

i'm on the 10 min south of orange county


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

c_maint, I'm near Poughkeepsie.

Cat, I was disappointed that Blizzard's video didn't show how to hitch the plow too. Maybe this will help.

I'll start with the truck frame. The tapered ears guide the plow into place when you drive up to it. The load bearing point for the hoist is under the zs on the cross tube. To remove the light tower for summer use (and most of this season), just unplug the lights, remove the bolts I highlighted and lift the tower out of its retainer.


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

This is looking down on the plow A frame. To hitch the plow, you drive up to it and flip a switch in the cab that activates the Power Hitch Toggle. Then pull the hitch A frame Latch Pin to allow the A Frame Latch to catch the Spring Mount Pin. Plug in the harness and flip the toggle to activate the Drawlatch. The draw latch will cinch the plow to the truck and then you insert the two hitch pins. Next return the A Frame Latch to its upper position and latch its pin. Raise the plow (with the toggle) and raise the kickstand. Go back to the cab and you're ready to plow. A lot of steps, but it takes about a minute and the plow does the work.


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

Here's the works. There is no drain on the reservoir, but you could disconnect one of the cylinder hoses and pump the fluid into a pan. The Power Hitch toggle would work for this.


----------



## cat320 (Aug 25, 2000)

service is one of the biggest things for me how hard is it?can you leave the plow raised and drain the angle cylenders and what about the stuff inside the plow to make it curve?


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

Between the center two springs on the last photo you'll see two pins, these secure the pistons that extend the wings. I haven't tried it yet, but I think you pull these pins and the the wings can be removed from their tracks. You can raise the plow to drain theangle cylinders, just make sure its blocked, or insert the transport pin that Blizzard provides. Give the factory a call, they'll put you on the line with either an engineer or technician who knows the plow inside and out. They're very helpful. Service will take longer than a standard plow, I'm sure, but this thing can save you a lot of time in the field,


----------



## NNJSnow (Feb 16, 2002)

*Blizzard look nice*

These blizzard plows look great. They sent me the video and all. Looks like a good plow. Does anyone know what the run for?


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

Mine was $4200 out the door with the optional joystick control. I installed it myself. I read here in the past someone on E-bay is selling them for under $3000 but I couldn't find it. If you buy, make sure your valve manifold is red like mine, not natural aluminum, they had problems with the first models. When I talked to the factory in November, they had allready sold out for the season, but you may find a dealer with one in stock.


----------



## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Is it just me or is all the hydros valving and wires left exposed like a very bad idea. One ice chunck, or snow over the moldboard stacking and you could be down for the night.
Dino


----------



## 2401 (Feb 3, 2001)

The cover has been removed for that photo, the previous one - http://www.plowsite.com/attachment.php?postid=43602 - shows the cover in place.


----------



## mxrdrvr3 (Feb 7, 2002)

Hey guys

The truck I plow with for another guy is equipped with the blizzard plow and I have used it for 2 1/2 seasons now 

My complaints are:
1. Where does all the fluid go? seems every 4-6 hours I am adding 2 quarts of hydrolic fluid and finding no evidence of any leaks(keeping in mind I dont know anything about plows other than operating them or adding fluid)Hey PELICAN maybe thats why it doesnt have a drain plug because you have to constantly add new fluid(not trying to be a smart a$$ either)

2. Make sure sure if you will plow with the wings extended for a long period of time to stop every now and then and move them back and forth to get out the snow packed in there and sometimes you may have to get out of the truck and use a pointed shovel or something to poke the snow out as mine have frozen on me before(not really a big problem).

Now what I will tell you is that I absolutely love this plow its a time saver! Great for doing quick tuck-ins and cleaning up trails as you can make it a scoop plow too and when you have those wings extended it seems like it cuts a considerable amount of plow time in the lot.

This is just my input on the unit that I use we only have 1 blizzard plow so I dont know if its just the one I use is like this or is it everyone let me know guys!!!!!


----------



## CT18fireman (Nov 30, 2000)

One reason I loved the old belt drive systems, nothing out in front to go bad. A straight plow has enough wires out there. The V's and Blizzards have even more solenoids and relays.

I am kind of afraid of any plow that has the controls so low. I like the Fisher, Western, Diamond, Meyer setups that keep the power packs up high. I have seen lots of snow packed up around the A frame and lower mount where other manufacturers keep their packs. Also when plowing the wet slushy snow here lots of water and slush can get into a low mounted system.

Just something to think about.


----------



## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

I looked at a Blizzard here,I an very leery of how the hydro's are mounted,being on the A frame,they will take a pounding,and the resivour is plastic?,i have slammed my blade hitting expansion joints,a it ,had it bounce and hit the stops,and crash down, on occasion,before i used U edges,I couldnt imagine that setuop taking the abuse for very long before you broke the resivour,or had some form of connection problems there.I think the head gear is a much better,safer place to mount sensitive hydro's,and the wiring,resivour.In this day and age there is also no reason to have to live with plow headlights being on your truck all season.It makes truck maintance a PITA,and its just outdated.I do love the way the wings work,when they worked them for me,they did made terrible scraping sounds,and you heard and seen gravel getting squished inside,that was stuck in there from plowjng,it didnt sound good,down the road,this could be a problem area.i didnt see any clean out area on the back side to clean the channel out either.This plow was low on fluid too,i noticed that when they pulled the cover for me to look at it.It is massive looking when its 10 ft wide.It also looks very heavymthe GMC 3500 dump it was mounted on was sagging a lot under the weight,much more than my Dodge with the boss does.Id still like to buy one,but im very cautious with my hard earned $ lately,it seems the more i spend for a better product,the more problems I have.


----------



## ELITE LAWN (Feb 18, 2002)

cruger maintenace,

I have Five Blizzard plows. One 99, two 00, and two 01. I can tell you anything you would like to know from maintenace to problems in the field. The time you save with these plows is definately worth the extra money. As far as problems I can tell you anything you would like to know. Before I write six pages of info I like to know if you still have questions or if they have been answered


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

The plow set up adds 1000 lbs to the truck, about the same as the Diamond I ran previously. The headlight tower can be removed/replaced in about 5 minutes time with a 3/4 inch wrench. Two bolts, two plugs, it's off. This tower is not that big a problem to work around, there's no lift arm or cylinder attached and you can easily reach over the top to access under the hood. I ran a week or so without the headlights attached to the tower and it looks just like an aftermarket brush guard. In fact I'm going to suggest they offer one for off season, like Fisher did with their older plows.

I'm also concerned about the controls being where they are, but they are mounted solidly, the reservoir is very thick and is easily replaced. Time will tell for the durability. This plow does save an immense amount of time.

mxrdrvr3, take a look under your manifold and see if one or more of your hose fittings is leaking. Some of these are hard to access and may have not been properly tightened.


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

Elite Lawn, can you guestimate how many hours might be on your oldest plow? One recurring question is how to drain the oil for change, any suggestions?

You're not offering six pages of problems, are you?

Am I correct in assuming you would not have purchased additional plows if you were not happy with the first?


----------



## ELITE LAWN (Feb 18, 2002)

pelican01, To answer your first question on how many plowing hour are on my oldest unit I would have to say that there is at least 400 hours on that plow. That's off the top of my head though without going back and actually looking up the hours off of route sheets. In 99 we had at least ten snow's last year we had 26 snows and this year 2 snows. 

To answer your question about how to change the fliud the best way if there was a best way is to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the resivor on and drain the resivor. Then loosen each angle cynlinder and drain those. That will drain at least most of the fliud. The lift cylinder is pretty easy to get to also to drain there. The I say there really isnt a good way is because it pretty tough to catch the fliud with the positioning of the pump. And while you have the resivor loose if you have a 99 or a 00 I would go to the dealer you purchased the plow from and get the updated filter. The original in these years had a tendensy for the sreen to seperate from the metal mount. Thus letting dirt get into the manifold.

Lastly the reason I have purchase 4 more since my first is because these will be the blades of the furture for contracters. Just like boss had problems with there first plows blizzard will to. These are by far thee best plows on the market when running for scrapping to payment, back dragging, scooping, or straight blading with a ten foot plow that go's to eight for guys to drive across town in traffic.

Any more questions feel free to ask.


----------



## NNJSnow (Feb 16, 2002)

*Blizzard*

Where can you buy this plow. Do you have to have it shipped out to you or is there dealers around. The blizzard site doesn't have any dealers on there yet. Also is this plow similar to the western plow easy mount. Everything can come off and then hitched back on?


----------



## Pelican (Nov 16, 2001)

NNJSnow, go back to the first page and read again. I included pictures of what stays on the truck between storms. You'll find the answers to your questions there. I'm not familiar with the Western mount so can't compare, but mounting is trouble free.

The plows are sold through dealers, though they don't have a big network yet. Call their toll free number and they will point you to the closest dealer.


----------

