# Cant get my plow off the truck HELP



## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

And No this is not my first time! Heres a dumb question I can't get my plow off my truck. Well first of all I couldn't get it on the whole minute mount theory took 90 minutes instead just to get it on. Before that I went and got a yard of sand/salt mix. Today I tried to take it off still with the load on it and It won't come off. Any reason why? The load shouldn't't matter should it? I don't think I bent the frame at all. Anybody else have this problem? I have a 2003 Chevy 2500HD Extended cab with a Salt Dogg 2 Yd Polly spreader and a Fisher MM2. Thanks for the help.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

are u just having trouble getting the pins to slide out? I usually just use a big pry bar.


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## coldcoffee (Jul 17, 2008)

Same as Chris said...also try putting some wood blocks under the blade, to minimize some pitch on the plow which may be causing it to bind.


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

*Cant get my plow off my truck*

I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thats for the tips. Also do you think it could be because of the load in the back? The Back is saging a little bit causing maybe a bad angle?


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## coldcoffee (Jul 17, 2008)

Probably, just for shi_ s & giggles...go measure your plow carriage to the ground full and again when empty...that will be the difference...that's why I think raising the height w/ wood blocks should help because the front ends getting jacked up. Just my 2 cents...


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

Did you compress the lift cylinder before you tried to dismount the plow? if not its a PITA to get it off.


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

*Cant get my plow off my truck*

Cold I have been thinking about what you said about the wood But im thinking it wouldn't matter because the plow and the plow frame are two different pieces so even if I put wood under the blade it would lift the plow only and not the plow frame right? The answer to the other reply is YES the fish stick controller automatically drops the piston down all the way to the "float" position . Thats a good point tho I think everybody at least once has left the piston up and stared at it for a while wondering why the plow wont come off!!!


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

when I put my MM1 plows down in float it doesn't compress the cylinder all the way, it drops the plow yes, but not all the way. You have to physically push the cylinder down and put slack in the chain. Is there slack in the chain?


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

Yes its down all the way I have a MM2 and the fish stick controller automatically does that for you


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

alright then. you should be able to pull the pins after the jackstand is down. you'll have to push the headgear up while you're doing this.


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

I did that with the foot on the ground locked into place the headgear wont budge at all I have taken this plow off my truck 1,965 times before and the only thing I can think of is that there is a load in the back causing the front of the truck to rise up wedging the headgear to the truck frame. Its pretty embarrising when your sweating you butt of trying to take your plow off infront of your neighbors in a T-Shirt and gloves for the last hour in 15 degree weather. LOL


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## coldcoffee (Jul 17, 2008)

Tino, I'm not all that familiar w/ Fisher plows, but if I'm understanding your problem right, it sounds like what I go through w/ my boss because my truck sits a bit high...I use a floor jack under the plow to compensate...and it goes right on. I've had the same prob before w/ other plows when I was hooking up on a slope or uneven pavement. Sounds like BS knows the system though...I'd follow his lead.


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

if it still won't budge by hand I would try using a breaker bar as a pry bar, I'm not familiar with the MM2 but the MM1s have a good deal of 'slop' to them and you can wiggle/shake them pretty good. If it doesn't move at all I'd check with a dealer.


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

I give it a shot tomorrow morning again and let you know how I make out but usually I get the slop as well but not this time with the loaded sander in the back But ill try your tip cold with the wood trick.

Thanks everybody


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## ticki2 (Jan 10, 2006)

If there is no slack in the lift chains it won't come off , or go on . Check the small spring that pulls the lift cylinder down , it may have come off or broke. If there is slack in the chains the head gear should move front to back. Made me feel loke a dumb ass more than once.


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

Ill run out and check the spring now. I have never had this problem before something is telling me that its the load that is causing it. BRB


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

Alright I think the Wood Idea that cold told me about might just work. The piston is all the way down but the chain is really really really tight still like its almost too short all of a sudden so If I put wood under the blade it will then give some chain slack which will result in some headgear movement. So I should probably get a chain with a few more links in it so I have that little extra slack with or without the load. Does anybody dissagree? Thanks


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## coldcoffee (Jul 17, 2008)

Sounds like you might have it figured out...let us know if that works...good luck !


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## rbergevine (Nov 6, 2008)

yes, all the above, esp chain slack for headgear movement. I havea MM1 on a Chevy 1500 and I keep a small 3-lb hammer in the truck and tap out the pins as they are always tight when removing - truck wants to raise more causing binding action. The 3lb makes it a cinch. I also keep a floor jack handy and use it in a variety of ways. You just learn the tricks as you go. I put it on and off with one-arm Saturday 3 days after serious rotator cuff surgery...its technique. But mostall of us have been in that moment of fighting it. You just have to laugh it off. Merry Christmas


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

The only people who were "Laughing it off" was my nice warm neighbors watching from there picture window saying" Anthony's at it again"! LOL Thanks for all the help I knew I could find it here. One last question tho If I add a longer chain will that decrease the plow lift height?


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## BSDeality (Dec 5, 2005)

it will slightly decrease the lift but you need to have slack in your lift chain. If you leave it the way it is now you won't be plowing if you plow over a rolling hill until the entire truck is on the same angle. The chain will be tight and the plow will be a few inches off the ground. You should probably do two things, et a longer chain and put some load boosters in the rear to pick the ass end up. Timbrens are the easiest, air shocks are the next best thing IMO


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

I have the Timbrens in the front they work great ill look into the rear Thanks!


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## Dodge Plow Pwr (Dec 7, 2007)

With the Timbrens in the rear, make sure you have the 1" gap like the kit says. I put the spacer in there anyway because I figured it would be better, nope makes it ride weird and bouncey. So I took the extra spacer out and rides great even with a skid of salt and the spreader on the rear. So now I have them on the front and rear and they are worth it.


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## ChevKid03 (Dec 23, 2007)

Tino... you may just need to adjust the chain... Put the truck and plow on a level surface and move one or two links out of the chain to give it slack when the plow is fully lowered. It sounds like the surface you were trying to take the plow off from was lower than the truck.. And just for Sh*&* and giggles, the only factor that lowers your piston all the way down when lowering your plow is that spring attached to the lift, not the fishtik controller. Hope you get everything all set and goodluck this plowing season! Oh, and by the way, about your neighbors laughing at you while you were out in the cold....... Make sure the next time they are shoveling you pull up and roll your window down in your truck, give them a smile, laugh and a big wave!! HAHA :waving:


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## Tino578 (Feb 1, 2008)

I got the plow off the truck thank god! Cold thanks again for the wood trick. I got a longer chain and put it in. I looked under the rear of the truck and the Factory "timbrenes" are not even close to touching there about 4" away from the rear axle and thats with a yard of sand/salt mix in the sander. Are the timbrenes still needed? Any feedback?


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