# Western no plow movement



## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

My plow will not move up/down or side to side. I was just starting and lifted up and down twice and then it just wouldn't move. It seems to dim the lights and make a noise when I try to move it, but it doesn't move. I did add some fluid, pretty sure it was low....but that didn't get it going.

Would appreciate any ideas or suggestions.....


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Sounds like the motor might be shot, take a set of jumper cables and hook up direct power and ground....anything?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

no movement, but it makes a whirring noise like it is trying to do work....


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

how expensive are new motors? I just use at home on my driveway and have sunk way to much into the truck this year....was hoping to get through the year.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Not the motor then...chck your connection at the grill to make sure it's tight.....What model Western plow is this, and what kind of truck is it on? 2 or 3 plugs at the grill?


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## k5PlowGuy (Feb 4, 2009)

Fluids may be frozen, since I park my truck outside I've had it happen under extreme cold a couple times.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I am not sure what type it is, I attached a couple of pictures. It is mounted on an F-250 Ford pickup. It appears to have two plugs at the grill. Both seem to plugged in, pulled out and pushed together to double check. I also decided to back it into the garage in case something was froze. I hasn't been that cold though....

If you click on the pictures they seem to open then....

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770568272378&set=a.1770567912369.104481.1484376769
[IMG]http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770569512409&set=a.1770567912369.104481.1484376769&pid=1899852&id=1484376769


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I can't open the pictures.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770569512409&set=a.1770567912369.104481.1484376769

see if this link works....not sure how to attach a photo on this site.


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## dcwn.45 (Jan 1, 2011)

I had the same thing happen, I changed the fluid [and had it in a heated shop for several hours] we jacked up the plow and pivoted it side to side with the hoses dissconnected to try and flush out the old fluid.
I suspect it was frozen. it worked fine but then today it was troublesome again. Im not sure but I suspect moisture still in the fluid. It took just short of 2 quarts to fill so I believe I got all the old fluid out [or 99% anyway] It is now working great side to side, but up is weak so I am going to rebuild the main up/down cylinder tomorrow.
BTW 8' straight Western on a unimount, 01 Dodge 1500


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1185803 said:


> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1770569512409&set=a.1770567912369.104481.1484376769
> 
> see if this link works....not sure how to attach a photo on this site.


No go.

Does it look like this? Is it just a straight blade? No cables correct, just wiring?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Posting pictures is fairly easy......Follow along.


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## dcwn.45 (Jan 1, 2011)

I just got mine back up and running, when I unhooked the chain the main cyl worked fine up and down so we figured that pressure was low.
adjusted the pressure up a bit on the pump and bingo!
My mechanic thinks the screw backed off some over time or just cumulative wear on all the seals eventually causes a drop in pressure.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

*front pic*

Trying again...
Thanks for your patience Repo


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I parked it in the garage last night and it is still not doing anything. I can push the main cylinder (the one with the chain connected to it) up and down a bit. Not sure I should be able to do that.

It is a straight blade.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

No sweat man, we all have to start somewhere. I'm surprised you've been on here that long and never utilized it. I suppose though, not all situations call for pictures.

This is starting to sound like a stuck or blocked valve...and then again not. First things first, your going to need a partner in crime for the next step. Grab your screwdriver and start the truck up, remove the cover off the side of the pump where the wires go into it. First make sure all the spade connections are tight on each terminal. NOTE there is usually a diagram on the inside of that cover if ever needed. Now, while someone operates the controls, check for magnetic pull using the screwdriver at each coil. See the charts below to see what's supposed to be activated and when.

When was the last time you had the pump apart and cleaned it out?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

OK! We are making progress to figuring this out.....I took off the cover and discovered a green wire that was not connected....but I couldn't find where to connect it to. So I looked on the inside cover and it showed a blue wire should be connected to the bottom- check, a white one to the right, check and a green one to the left. The one on the left had a red one plugged into it. I unplugged the red one and plugged in the green one and now the plow goes up and down, but not side to side. I still have a red wire that is not plugged into anything. But I don't have an empty spade to plug it on.....The red wire looks a little bigger and is one the outside of the rest of the wires...


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

That appears to be an add on for some reason, test it for power or ground using a test light. I'm thinking there maybe a previous issue. Trace it back to it's source and see where it comes from. It be an add in for a broken wire up the line..maybe that green one that wasn't plugged in.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

If you angle the plow left....does it raise?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

It just goes up and down as it is supposed to.....I think it was an add in as well. But the diagram shows it to be hooked up the way it is. I wonder if one of the other wires is bad since the green one seems to have it working and it was just hooked up wrong. I will try to find my test light now and see what I find.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Your on the right track. A couple things to consider here, the test light my not show anything unless you have someone operating the control at the same time. This I believe to be the case. Make sure the truck is on.

The red / green wire plays NO role in either the raising or lowering functions. Abandon the idea of messing with the other 2 coils. If anything, you tightened them up, or made a bad connection good. Take a pair of needle noisee pliers and *slightly* crimp each spade terminal to their respective terminals to ensure a good connection.

Also, according to your description thus far, I'm to assume this is an existing setup, if it all worked before, it was hooked up right...or enough so it worked. The red wire needs to go back in place and the green needs to be disconnected. Again, I think the reason the up and down work now is due to your efforts of reconnecting things.

If your not confused, read on. Reference the chart below again, notice what coils are activated for each function. The coil / cartridge valve that the green (red) wire is connected to is the S2....process of elimination shows it's your culprit one way or the other as it plays a roll in BOTH angle functions, however if you select the "left" operation and for some reason the S2 isn't working (crap coil, valve, broken wire, connection, or bad controller) the other valve that is working with it in tandem to complete the "left" operation is the S3....which by itself controls the "up" operation. Which we know to work when signaled. In short, the S3 would still get juice to do it's part, if the S2 doesn't kick in, it will raise, rather then angle left. That's not happening. I think we're either looking at a bad valve that has blockage effecting the other valves, or you may have an issue with your controller. Stay on track with the pump first. Re connect the red wire...will it angle now?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I found out the red wire was to replace a broken green wire. So it is working (up and down) when the top left wire is not plugged in. I have a busted bulb in my test light so I will need to fix that tomorrow. But the wire actually starts just before the plug in....I found two other broken wires, but those must go to the headlights since they don't work either, LOL


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

So when I unplug either wire to S2.....it works up and down. I am not sure if I broke the wire, or not, but it is working the same whether the wire is plugged into the S2 or not.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

It appears that S2 is the culprit because it won't work side to side. I guess I fixed a loose connection with all the other monkeying around to get it to work up and down....because the S2 has nothing to do with going up and down motion.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

No angling....I am re- reading as I go here and figuring it out. Where would I find the blockage with the pump? Or should I look into a controller issue?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

Ok....I just went out and worked the plow up and down, when you go to move it side to side, it makes noise like it should move....but it doesn't. That leads me to believe it is getting power and it may be a blockage of some type. I did have a bad connection, that is why it is going up and down now, and it had nothing to do with the S2 wiring....correct?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1187447 said:


> Ok....I just went out and worked the plow up and down, when you go to move it side to side, it makes noise like it should move....but it doesn't. That leads me to believe it is getting power and it may be a blockage of some type. I did have a bad connection, that is why it is going up and down now, and it had nothing to do with the S2 wiring....correct?


ahhhh, your seeing the light now.



> The red / green wire plays NO role in either the raising or lowering functions. Abandon the idea of messing with the other 2 coils. If anything, you tightened them up, or made a bad connection good. Take a pair of needle noisee pliers and slightly crimp each spade terminal to their respective terminals to ensure a good connection.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1187437 said:


> No angling....I am re- reading as I go here and figuring it out. Where would I find the blockage with the pump? Or should I look into a controller issue?


Let's first connect some juice to the S2 coil to see what happens. you'll either need someone to operate the controller RIGHT while you supply power to the S2..or hook up the jumper cables to the plow's motor to make it work while you supply the power..... If the motor isn't on, the pump won't work no matter what you do.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1187410 said:


> I found two other broken wires, but those must go to the headlights since they don't work either, LOL


What color are they?


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## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

If you think there is blockage somewhere, I would raise the plow and have someone try the controls left to right.

Go out front and push the blade to the corresponding direction that the person is doing on the joystick. Just be careful and don't get hurt.

Even though I don't have an electric pump on my plow, I have that happen occasionally if I hook the lines up to the truck and have air in the lines somewhere. Moving the blade works it out.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

The broken wires are white and a light blue.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

The white explains your lights, the light blue on the other hand.....that would be your power to your S3 wire! I have funny feeling that someone hacked the hell out of that harness. Where are these wires broken?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I started the truck, lifted the plow, had my wife try angling while I held a wire to the S2 directly from the battery....no movement. I did notice it slightly tilt forward when I hit the S2 with the juice from the battery.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I don't think the light blue is the same as the one running to S3. It is a little lighter in color. There were two blue wires in the bundle....


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1187521 said:


> I don't think the light blue is the same as the one running to S3. It is a little lighter in color. There were two blue wires in the bundle....


Lets table that for now, but according to the schematic, there is only one blue wire...and it is labeled "light blue". There is a purple and gray...both are ark lamp wires. The white is your main issue on the headlights, cure that and you'll have lights.....that is if it's the only thing ailing it.

It doesn't make sense that it would be broken however, as the S3 works.....


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Food for thought, if the wires are broken plow side, you can replace the whole light / control harness for a little over $100. Fiher plow part is 8246, I can get you the Western # if so desired.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I went and got a halogen light on it and cleaned it off and it is a gray and white wire that is broke. the light blue is good.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Next youll need to pull the valve.

Disconnect the wires to the S2 valve coil.

Remove the packing nut that holds the coil on.

Remove the coil.

Remove the valve.

check the bore for any obstructions with a light.

Anything?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

How do you remove the valve? pull it out or.....


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1187530 said:


> I went and got a halogen light on it and cleaned it off and it is a gray and white wire that is broke. the light blue is good.


Good good. The white is for your headlights, the gray is for your....left park light

Once your done with the valve, don't put it back together, there is a few other test for it.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1187533 said:


> How do you remove the valve? pull it out or.....


wrench and or socket. The packing nut is shallow, but the valve requires a deep socket or wrench. I use a wrench when I do them.....I forget the sizes, sorry.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

Ok....got the valve out....is the bore the area I pulled the valve out of?


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

It looks clean enough after I soaked the oil out with a rag...


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

First take a needle or fine pointed object and push in the end, there should be some resistance, but it should give way easily, and when you let go, it should push right back out.

Then do.........


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Also look for visual wear and tear......


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I did the above and the valve works with the coil on it....I cleaned it and blew some compressed air around it and got it back in and no dice yet.....I don't have an ohm meter so I can't really test the coil, but it appears to be working. When I hit the control to angle it it really seems to want to move because of the clunking noise it makes....but it doesn't move.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I think this is a bad connection due to a broken wire or something, but another thing to check out....


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

I agree with the wiring issue.....I just went out and ran a hot wire to the S2 from the battery and got in the truck to see what would happen....the plow would not go up! This defies logic since the S2 is not supposed to have anything to do with the up and down movement. Could the plow be wired wrong in the first place and we have been looking at the wrong valve? It doesn't make sense.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I suspected this initially, where are those broken wires exactly?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Wait, it wouldn't go up...s3 & s2 power its the same as requesting the left function...doesn't matter if how your providing it. I'm signing off, but you may want to evaluate the poppet valve. Be back in the AM......


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

How do you get the spool and poppet out of there? I took the screw off and found the spring, but everything else is still inside and I want to be careful getting it out....


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

magnet or small needle nose pliers.


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

10-4, not sure how much I can work until later. thanks so much for your help! I am thinking that when I hooked up a wire directly from the battery to S2, the reason it would not go up was because it acted like an override or something to prevent the other coils from engaging to lift the plow. Do you think that would make any sense? I will be trying to do that again like I did before I got the plow going up and down when I have someone try to move the plow to an angle after it is already up in the air and the controller is moving that way as well. Just my thoughts.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

It didn't work because you had power going to the S2 valve at the time. In essence you were requesting the plow to go "left" when you were trying to "raise" it. You had a constant wire to the S2 when you also powered the S3 with the controller by requesting the up function....get it?

Power to the S3 valve alone will make it go up, power to BOTH the S3 & S2 will make it go left. 

This also tells us that this is an issue plow side, no need to worry about your controller.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)




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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

Got it, thanks! I am missing the spring spacer and ball. Do you know what the part number I will need to order? Not sure what info I need to order parts. Thanks again for all of your help!


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

7629K...keep in mind this is a FISHER part number. Click here


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## schlich92 (Mar 15, 2006)

RepoMan.....you are awesome! I really appreciate all of your help I put in the new cross over relief valves tonight and the side to side is working better than it ever did. I can't believe the difference it has made. I need to tackle changing the fluid for my next project.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

schlich92;1193115 said:


> RepoMan.....you are awesome! I really appreciate all of your help I put in the new cross over relief valves tonight and the side to side is working better than it ever did. I can't believe the difference it has made. I need to tackle changing the fluid for my next project.


No problem man, I bid you happy plowing on that end. Keep my number handy in case you need something mid storm.

Stay tuned and I'll post some visuals for you on the fluid change...


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

*Required Parts for Fluid Change:*

1 Gallon Fisher Hydraulic Fluid 
1 Gasket (Part 25861)
1 Filter (Part 5820)
1 O-Ring (Part 5821)

I typically remove the pump assembly from the plow to do this...but to each his own......

Remove the Power and ground cables off the pump's motor.

Drain the fluid via the Drain Plug (see diagram).

Remove the 2 bolts at the base of the motor where it meets the pump's reservoir.

Remove the motor (may need a flat head to pry it off - be easy).

Remove gasket and clean surface for new Gasket. (Make sure to do this now, so if any small pieces of old gasket fall in, they will be cleaned out in the coming steps.

Remove any left over fluid.

Remove the actual pump (see photos) (only 2 of the bolts remove it from the floor of the reservoir, the other 2 are to keep the pump in one piece....depending on vintage, there is a 2 piece casting and a 1 piece.)

Get in there and clean it all up using brake cleaner and rags. DO NOT USE WATER

Remove the O Ring & Filter & Install the new ones. Make sure to lube the O Ring prior to install.

Replace drain plug.

Prior to installing Gasket and Pump, fill reservoir with Blue Fisher Hydraulic Fluid as much as you can.

Install Gasket and Pump, then reattach Power and Ground Cables.

The above is a basic fluid change, Here is the FLUSH MANUAL (scroll down to your pump SEHP for the full Monty).

Basically it calls for you to remove the lines and drain, as well as the angle rams, then flush as needed. If you do this, I recommend filling as you go, keeping them at an angle to remove as much air as possible as you do so.

Also, here is your MECHANICS GUIDE for your pump, it may come in handy in the future. Again...Fisher, but its all the same.


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

I know this is a old thread but I’m feeling hopeful. I have a western plow like the one pictured. I have voltages at all the solenoids when each function is preformed and power at the proper solenoids. But I get no function at all just put in a new pump and still nothing I have checked O-rings and backup Teflon seals they are good. I can’t seam to be able to get out the quill. Thoughts as to what the problem may be? I have no hydraulic movement at all.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Pillow said:


> . I have voltages at all the solenoids when each function is preformed and power at the proper solenoids. But I get no function at all just put in a new pump and still nothing


Is your solenoid clicking while you try U, R, L,?


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Pillow said:


> I have voltages at all the solenoids when each function is preformed and power at the proper solenoids.


The way that you keep putting an "s" on the end of solenoid implies plural as in more than one.

Can you please post a picture of these "solenoids" as you only have one.

I am wondering if you are testing coils and not your solenoid?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Philbilly2 said:


> The way that you keep putting an "s" on the end of solenoid implies plural as in more than one.
> 
> Can you please post a picture of these "solenoids" as you only have one.
> 
> I am wondering if you are testing coils and not your solenoid?


He's referring to coils and valves guys.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Is the plows motor activating?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

RepoMan207 said:


> He's referring to coils and valves guys.


I'm saying "we know" but correct info will get proper answers. If he dont know what hes working with how do we know what he means.


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

Yes you are correct I do mean coils and I am getting voltages at them and I tested the ohms across each one and am getting 6.7. The motor does work and is generating pressure from the pump. But I am not getting movement. At one point in testing last night after posting I did get a very brief minor twitch of the plow when I checked each of the valve spools to make sure they were free. But after that no other movement. The solenoid does seam to be working as it should as well. I checked the quill seamed to be clear there and the two reliefs or cross valves depending on how you want to consider them.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

What kinda plow


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

You said you replaced the pump, not to nit pick, but to clarify... you took the motor off the top, and pulled the pump off the bottom of the reservoir...or did you mean that you replaced the pump motor, which sits ontop?


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

It is a western plow and I replaced the pump inside.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

High pitched noise when it runs? Fill it right to the top with fluid. 

Use a jack, raise the plow under the A frame, then push the blade right to left by hand, will it allow you to?


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

Have not tried back and forth did lift up the lift cylinder though and ya it made a higher pitched sound when tried running it. Also filled the casing pretty full like maybe half a inch from the top before I put the motor back on.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Did you disconnect power leads from motor when you replaced pump? Are you sure you put them back on the correct studs? If hooked up backwards motor will run but plow won't do anything.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Pillow said:


> Have not tried back and forth did lift up the lift cylinder though and ya it made a higher pitched sound when tried running it. Also filled the casing pretty full like maybe half a inch from the top before I put the motor back on.


Check for blade movement as soon as you can.

Keep filling it, fill hole ontop left. It's probably low, need to bleed the system possibly.

Did you clean, or replace the screen on the pump?


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## cjames808 (Dec 18, 2015)

Power it with 12v to the studs. See if you get it to pump normally.


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Correct me if I am wrong but isn’t there a small 12 or 14 gauge wire that grounds the coils back to the negative post on the plow motor and back threw the two plug?

Do you have that on negative post on the motor and not the positive by chance? 

(I might be way off on this to as it has been many many years since I have worked on a uni-mount.)


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Philbilly2 said:


> Correct me if I am wrong but isn't there a small 12 or 14 gauge wire that grounds the coils back to the negative post on the plow motor and back threw the two plug?


Your right there is. And that wire also goes to the lights to ground them


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

I believe it’s connected to the ground will have to check it when I am at my dads it’s his plow I’m just helping him. But I also connected a test wire directly to the negative on the solenoids and on the batters thinking it could be the ground. Also the new pump came with a new screen.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

I think the 9 pin relay systems had their lights grounded through the post on the motor, the iso system replaced that ground through the 11 pin. I'm not near my computer to check the guides right now, but I'm 99% sure that's how that how goes.


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

This plow has 9 small wires that go from the pickup to the plow and two cable leads that go on the motor back to the relay and battery if I remember correctly. Also does it matter on the coils which is ground and which is power?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Pillow said:


> Also does it matter on the coils which is ground and which is power?


Nope it doesn't


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

no, which terminal doesn't matter with the valve coils, just that the right colored wire goes to the right coil. 

Don't go by number of wires, look at the connectors at the grill, first, how many are there, second, how many pins are in each.


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

I cleaned up the old wiring job and put trailer ends on for ease of connecting. I took my time and am positive without reasonable doubt there are no wires mixed up I used a volt meter and checked each wire for continuity across the harness when both plow and truck harness are connected. The old wires had indevidual ends on them and they were very shot and that's what I thought the initial problem was.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Did this work before you removed the motor to replace the pump?


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## cjames808 (Dec 18, 2015)

Holy s**it. Buy some new wires instead of beers and weeds and cig-rets.

Your customers depend on you and your gear working.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

:hammerhead: No offense, but I abso****inlutely despise hacked systems, no matter how clean they are. We can't even tell you what you have right, or wrong there, going off the pictures, the wires showing are pigtail leads from the connectors, not the plow harnesses.

If the coils are activating correctly, and more importantly, only the appropriate coils are activating when they should, as each function is requested (see chart), AND the motor is winding up, but you're not getting movement... it's usually either A) a pressure issue, B) actuator issue between the pump and the motor..... Bad o'ring, misinstalled o'ring, clogged or impaired screen, misinstalled pump, misinstalled motor, not enough fluid, defective pump, defective motor...it's something along those lines.

If it were me....and I were dead set positive that the wiring is right, which I don't know how anyone could be, but I digress, I would...

Drain it, unbolt and remove the motor, make sure that the pump is correctly installed - screen facing outward towards the plow, unbolt and pull the pump out, check that the screen is on, and clean, the reservoir is near spotless -if not, clean it. Flip the pump over, inspect the oring on the bottom, make sure that it's set in nice and tight, no cracks, not stretched and loose, put it back in and bolt it down, again, making sure the screen is facing outwards towards the blade.

Inspect the bottom side of the motor, is it corroded at all? Take a screwdriver and spin the actuator, does it spin at all, or is it bound up? Make sure to disconnect the power. You have to make sure that when you're mounting the motor, that you line up the motor correctly with the pump shaft, the spade on the pump shaft must line up with the notch up inside the motor. Make sure to fill the reservoir before putting the motor on, but fully top off right to the brim using the fill hole ontop of the casing. Once you run the plow some, top off again.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Start over and in detail, what was, or what was not working before you did anything to it. Then in detail explain all that you have done, in the order you did it.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Not that it's perfect, but it's a good point of reference when in doubt...






View attachment 186030


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

cjames808 said:


> Holy s**it. Buy some new wires instead of beers and weeds and cig-rets.
> 
> Your customers depend on you and your gear working.


Well first of all I rarely drink like maybe a beer every few months if I go out for dinner. Second I don't do any form of drug or smoke weed and third of all I don't smoke never have


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

We unhooked the plow from the truck for the summer. Then went to hook it back up here a few weeks ago. I have a fair bit of knowledge as to how everything works I went to college for diesel equipment. For some reason this pump system is just throwing me for a massive curveball so I thought I would turn to a few guys/gals who might know a thing or two since I’m at wits end with this project. The motor is free and runs I tested that with a battery and some jumper cables and to make sure it was getting proper response I held the motor in my hands watching the coupling inside when it was hooked up electronically and had my dad hit the function and the motor spun properly. Thinking it could be a possible bad pump and wasn’t providing enough pressure we replaced the pump with a new filter and O-ring for the pump where it bolts down. Making sure to bolt it so the filter points forward and the pump and motor are in time. It is full of oil to the top of the fill port I found the manual online and reset all the valves as to how it instructed. We ordered new seal kits for the valves but they seam to be the wrong seal kits that were ordered as the valves have a Teflon O-ring on each side of the O-ring and the kits have to thick of Teflon O-rings in them. Thinking the gal at car quest may have ordered wrong valve seal kits.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Have you tried turning pump relief in?


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

Randall Ave said:


> Start over and in detail, what was, or what was not working before you did anything to it. Then in detail explain all that you have done, in the order you did it.


We went to hook the plow up and had no response from the plow at all. The motor sounded like it was moving and made a squealing kinda sound. So we proceeded to turn to YouTube and google trying to do some research we watched a bunch of videos and found the manual. We drained the fluid and checked the filter and cleaned the pump housing. We checked the valves for any debri and those were good. Checked the coils for proper ohms reading came out good. Checked voltages at the coils when functions were activated and a couple were kinda low. Thinking it could be a lack of voltage due to poor connections I redid the ends where the plow harness hooks up to the pickup harness for the controller and ended up removing some ends that were about to fall off. So did them all to eliminate corrosion possibly being a culprit. I checked and have good voltages at corresponding coils when each function is activated. Not sure what else the problem could be I reset pressure reliefs to manual specifications taking them out and cleaning and inspecting. Now that I'm thinking about it there is one I haven't checked the one between the valve block and aluminum cast housing. We changed the pump out thinking it could be weak since the pump gears had some wear and a little free play where the shafts went through. But still don't have proper function. It is quieter now though when you go to run a function. Thinking my next step will be to check the setting between the valve and cast housing tomorrow will have to check manual as well for proper terminology and settings. night all and thanks for the helpful insight so far.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Pillow said:


> Not sure what else the problem could be I reset pressure reliefs to manual specifications taking them out and cleaning and inspecting.


How could you do this without a gauge? And what do you mean by reliefs? Only one pump relief and it is on the pump inside the housing.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Pillow said:


> The motor is free and runs I tested that with a battery and some jumper cables and to make sure it was getting proper response I held the motor in my hands watching the coupling inside when it was hooked up electronically and had my dad hit the function and the motor spun properly.


Huh?

Have you hooked up jumper cables directly to the motor while it's on the plow yet?


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Pillow said:


> We unhooked the plow from the truck for the summer.


Did it work as it should prior to this point?? What was the cause for all of this Edward scissor hands routine?



Pillow said:


> Then went to hook it back up here a few weeks ago. I have a fair bit of knowledge as to how everything works I went to college for diesel equipment.


I don't doubt that you're a smart and clever person, but it's like I tell my kids, being capable is more than just being able to do sh!t, simply because you can and know how to; it's knowing when not to do sh!t, when you shouldn't.



Pillow said:


> For some reason this pump system is just throwing me for a massive curveball


That's because you've got too many pans on the fire at this point, you've compounded the main issue so much that you're going to have to burn it to the ground and rebuild.



Pillow said:


> so I thought I would turn to a few guys/gals who might know a thing or two since I'm at wits end with this project.


See above



Pillow said:


> The motor is free and runs I tested that with a battery and some jumper cables and to make sure it was getting proper response I held the motor in my hands watching the coupling inside when it was hooked up electronically and had my dad hit the function and the motor spun properly.


Good, check that off the list.



Pillow said:


> Thinking it could be a possible bad pump and wasn't providing enough pressure we replaced the pump with a new filter and O-ring for the pump where it bolts down. Making sure to bolt it so the filter points forward and the pump and motor are in time. It is full of oil to the top of the fill port


Okay, first, did you actually replace the actual pump, or did you just replace the oring and filter, and clean it up?

And, back to my original question, what got you to this point of messing with this plow, what was the original symptom, more importantly, was this a good system prior to, has it ever worked for you the way that it was supposed to?



Pillow said:


> I found the manual online and reset all the valves as to how it instructed. We ordered new seal kits for the valves but they seam to be the wrong seal kits that were ordered as the valves have a Teflon O-ring on each side of the O-ring and the kits have to thick of Teflon O-rings in them. Thinking the gal at car quest may have ordered wrong valve seal kits.


This could be your downfall, insult to injury, and salt in the wound. You need to get back to ground zero. Those wires...this is just me, I don't care how they look or if they're working, get um gone, get the right ones in there. If you need the correct part numbers, just ask. If it's still not working, which I doubt it will...or you just want to move forward without touching the electrical, gut the pump assembly (Don't mess with the relief valves or the pressure valve at this time), pull it out, pull the coils, pull the valves, clean um up, and push in on the end of all 3 with a pick or something, make sure that they go in smoothly without hitching up, and that they retract smoothly, clean and replace as needed. If you need instruction on how to, let us know. the correct part number for the o ring kit is 7632K. If the ones on the valves are rounded over still, and are without nicks and such, leave um be.

Do all that, then move on to settings and relief valve inspections. You'll need a proper gauge suited up to 2500 psi or better.

here is the kit that I use Fisher part number 56686, parts and sizes are within the PDF...on page 3, in case you want to piece together your own kit. Instructions are further down, turn to the page marked SEHP, and there's even further instructions within your mechanics guide, but to be clear, the right manual can be had here.


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## Pillow (Nov 9, 2018)

Repoman207 I like the way you break it down. Ok it was the cushion valves I set back according to the manual. It took me a little bit to have some free time and do a little reading. We put in a new pump complete assembly and no I didn’t tamper with the pressure relief I was mistaken about that. I also checked and cleaned the popper check valves. I pulled out the valves and brought them with me to work and cleaned them out in ours parts washer. With freshly recycled solvent to be sure there were no contaminants. I have not checked the inlet check valve. I could use a pressure gauge from work and check pressure with that.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Pillow said:


> Repoman207 I like the way you break it down. Ok it was the cushion valves I set back according to the manual. It took me a little bit to have some free time and do a little reading. We put in a new pump complete assembly and no I didn't tamper with the pressure relief I was mistaken about that. I also checked and cleaned the popper check valves. I pulled out the valves and brought them with me to work and cleaned them out in ours parts washer. With freshly recycled solvent to be sure there were no contaminants. I have not checked the inlet check valve. I could use a pressure gauge from work and check pressure with that.


Cushion valves... you mean crossover valves?

Did you push in on the end of the coil valves or test them according to the the guides?


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