# 2500 HD wheel bearing



## flykelley (Dec 29, 2003)

Hi Guys
What is the going price to have a wheel bearing replaced in my 05 2500 HD? Its starting to make some noise. Is this too bad a job to do yourself? Im pretty handy with the wrencks just have never done anything with front end parts and such.

Thanks Mike


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## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

if you can remove the brakes then 1/2 way there. 

need like a around a 36mm if i recall socket for the center axle stub nut. 

then basic tools. 

the biggest problem is it the hub/bearing body is rusted in the knuckle. can be a bit tricky to get out. 

reinstall is all the same but DO NOT use a impact to install the center axle hub nut. it will damage the bearing inside. and there is a specific tourqe spec. if i recall in the 175-200 ft lb range but its been a long time since i did one. so best look it up. 

but ya if your good with basic repairs save your self a tone of cash on this fix.


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## jklawn&Plow (Jan 8, 2011)

You can do it its plug and play. I did my 1500 with 6-point box wrenches and a hammer-can't remember if I used heat. Since then I bought a compressor but not sure if it has enough power.


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## stacks04 (Jan 22, 2008)

Pretty easy job if your at all confident in your skill. You hardest spot can be the bolts holding the caliper bolts to the spindle. They are loctited and if they havent been out before your arms will not thank you that evening.


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## BigLou80 (Feb 25, 2008)

like sweetK30 said, if you can take out your brakes your half way there. I think it took less then two beers for my buddy to change mine out


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## StratfordPusher (Dec 20, 2006)

*Buy good bearings*

Learned the hard way that there are many different bearing suppliers, buy bearings with a 3 year warranty, These run about a 100.00 more each then offshore junk that lasts a season or two...

Goodluck


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

Its not a bad job if you don't have any rusted in bolts. I had one on my 98 K3500 that would not come out for anything. I ended up having to cut and melt the head of the bolt off and then use a big punch and hammer and a hub puller to get the assembly off. It was a giant PITA and not something I would want to do again. I ended up ruining the boot on the cv shaft as well from the torch so I had to replace that as well.

Wayne


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

I did one on a buddies truck. I had to use a fatmax crow bar and put it inbetween the studs of the old hub to get the big nut off the CV shaft so the bear would come off. It wasn't a bad job at all. I am going to do mine in the summer. I think my drivers side is going. It has a slight hum to it when I am crusing down the road. Wheres a good place to get one? I am not going to get a cheap auto zone one, but I really don't want to buy a ACdelco one either. I mean I will, but would rather not spend that much money.


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

Autoparts123.com has a good price on Timken bearings.


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

Are the bearings themselves anygood?


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

I have always heard Timken was one of the best.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

I've seen some Timkens lately made in China so be careful.GM Parts Direct has good USA made ones very reasonable.


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

RBRONKEMA GHTFD;1218748 said:


> I did one on a buddies truck. I had to use a fatmax crow bar and put it inbetween the studs of the old hub to get the big nut off the CV shaft so the bear would come off. It wasn't a bad job at all. I am going to do mine in the summer. I think my drivers side is going. It has a slight hum to it when I am crusing down the road. Wheres a good place to get one? I am not going to get a cheap auto zone one, but I really don't want to buy a ACdelco one either. I mean I will, but would rather not spend that much money.


Duramax Store has them cheap. They list that Timken makes the factory hubs (I believe AC Delco as well). Both authentic Timkens and AC Delcos are usa made.

http://dmaxstore.com/index.php?main...ducts_id=254&zenid=29gftj6soqlqa3m8aje9thp5g7

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3753373&postcount=382


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## IMAGE (Oct 21, 2007)

Front wheel bearing on a 05 2500hd are easy. Did one in about 20 minutes on my 05 2500hd last month. That was on a hoist and with good tools. But its not hard at all.


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## RacingZR (Nov 14, 2009)

Consider looking up Dearborn Axle for wheel bearings. Made in the USA, put one my Dodge,- passengers side. They were cheap too. Can't say if they are goo dor bad, no issue yet though.


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

I used Timkin on mine and I got them at Autozone. I'm pretty sure they were made in the USA but this was almost two years ago.

Wayne


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## jklawn&Plow (Jan 8, 2011)

I got a left Timkin from Napa and a right from Autozone. Both were about $125.

70Monte
I had same issue due to the fact that I couldn't hear the problem until I saw sparks flying out while plowing/driving. Ended up grinding all 3 (1500) bolt heads off the knuckle and needed new CV.
Got educated in it though.


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## damian (Jan 29, 2009)

dont cheap out on the parts,hub and bearings vary in quality the locals offer low cost china or high cost ,check dealer they surprise me sometimes.


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

The Timkin assembly for mine was about $250 from autozone and that was with a 10% discount.

My bearing assembly didn't actually go out but my brake caliper locked up and caused my hub to get extremely hot to the point that I couldn't get the wheel off without hammering it off. Since I had to replace the rotor which was also shot and you have to seperate the hub assembly from the rotor, I wanted to be safe rather than sorry and just replaced the bearing assembly. I replaced the other side also just because the mileage and the fact that that rotor was also shot. I had about $950 in the front end when I got done. New rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, both hub assemblies, and one cv shaft. Last year I had to have the idler arm and one balljoint replaced as well. Needless to say, I've spent quite a bit of money on this thing since I got it. 

Wayne


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## sdplowing (Oct 7, 2006)

On Diesel Place there is a step by step walk through with pictures. It tells you what tools you need, the torque specs, and how many beers to have when done.Thumbs Up


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## IMAGE (Oct 21, 2007)

70monte;1221048 said:


> The Timkin assembly for mine was about $250 from autozone and that was with a 10% discount.
> 
> My bearing assembly didn't actually go out but my brake caliper locked up and caused my hub to get extremely hot to the point that I couldn't get the wheel off without hammering it off. Since I had to replace the rotor which was also shot and you have to seperate the hub assembly from the rotor, I wanted to be safe rather than sorry and just replaced the bearing assembly. I replaced the other side also just because the mileage and the fact that that rotor was also shot. I had about $950 in the front end when I got done. New rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, both hub assemblies, and one cv shaft. Last year I had to have the idler arm and one balljoint replaced as well. Needless to say, I've spent quite a bit of money on this thing since I got it.
> 
> Wayne


Your 98 k3500 uses an entirely different setup for the front wheel bearing then a 2005 2500hd. I've done it on my 99k2500 and it was much harder then it was on my 2005 2500hd like the OP has. The 2005 is a piece of cake.


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

sdplowing;1222616 said:


> On Diesel Place there is a step by step walk through with pictures. It tells you what tools you need, the torque specs, and how many beers to have when done.Thumbs Up


It is a great write-up. One flaw is the torque spec is 177 ft.lbs for the axle nut (changed byGM in 03 iirc?). It is mentioned somewhere in the thread too, but the original write-up does not have the updated spec.


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## 70monte (Feb 5, 2008)

IMAGE;1222724 said:


> Your 98 k3500 uses an entirely different setup for the front wheel bearing then a 2005 2500hd. I've done it on my 99k2500 and it was much harder then it was on my 2005 2500hd like the OP has. The 2005 is a piece of cake.


I'm not familiar with the bearing setup on the newer trucks but am glad to hear they are easier than mine was. What makes them easier?

Wayne


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## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

88-2000 style 8 lug had to pop out all 8 studs and remove rotor from backside. then install new w/b unit and pop the studs back in and NOT break the abs sensor off. 

real pita the old style. 

new body style changed a little now rotor pops off the front and then just remove/install w/b unit and bolt all back on.


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