# Meyer E47 help



## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

hi everyone, new to the site, from wisconsin. I've been repairing my old e47 meyer. I got a new motor and wiring harness for the slick stick controller. Wired it up and all I get is a clicking sound when trying to lift the arm. The sound is coming from one of the 2 cylinders next to the hydrolic ram. ( if you could tell me what those that'll help) does anyone know why it's just clicking and not turning the motor on?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Well I'm betting the clicking your hearing is the solenoid under the hood, NOT the valves on the plow. 
Test light the solenoid, power in, power out while trying up, right, left. I would disconnect the pos wire at the plow motor tho just for safety


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

I researched it, the noise is coming from the coils


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Coils will have nothing to do with motor not running. If you have a new motor problem is in connections or slick stick or solenoid. Try jumping the two large terminals on solenoids. Plow should go left so stay clear.


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Also got a new solenoid, there was no problem with the old old. Guess I'll hook that one up and try


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Quinnian;1853777 said:


> I researched it, the noise is coming from the coils


I'm still betting it's the underhood solenoid.
Like I said test light it 
And as kimber said, your coils have nothing to do with your motor not working


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Test lighted the solenoid and it's working so thats not the problem. Where do you have your solenoid mounted and where is the motor grounded. I have the pump motor grounded to the battery and the solenoid temporarily on the inside fender. Would any of that cause an issue?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Then test light the motor pos while operating and see if your getting the same results 
So you have pwr in, press up...power out correct?


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Light turns on when I push the toggle up, it turns off when I shut the toggle off. I put the light on the ground, hat also lit up. Not sure if it's suppose to do that


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Test light clamp on positive batt terminal, then touch the other end to the gnd, yes it should light up. 
But if your clamp is on the neg batt post and your touching the neg batt cable at the plow motor, something is wrong


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

I have the clamp on a bolt


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

What bolt?
Ok. Get jumper cables. Neg batt to neg motor. Pos batt to pos post in motor. BE CAREFUL as the plow will move if there's nothing wrong. And touch to the pos motor and see what happens


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Not sure what I did, but took it apart and put it back together and it worked. New problem now. Motor runs but ram won't lift. It jerks a little but won't lift. I also want to add. Thanks for your patience. This is brand new to me and I don't plow for a living. Only clear mine and the in laws drive way out. All help is very much appreciated


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

What position is the plow in now? Straight, left or right? Does it go right? Up is B coil, red wire. Is the fluid fuel? Which way does it jerk when you hit up?


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

It jerks up around a half inch. I'm able to lift the ram up by hand. Wasn't able to do that a couple years ago. Left and right does the same.


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Drained the oil, really runny


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

So it does not move in any direction? Plow fluid should be rather thin. 

Does motor sound like it is free spinning or loaded down? Any of the hoses have a lot of pressure on them? You say you drained the fluid is it filled to within 1 1/2" of the fill hole? Did you check the filters when you drained it? 

For it to not move at all is lack of fluid, low pressure or blockage. What exactly did you take apart?


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## NE-Parts (Oct 28, 2014)

Definitely change the fluid. When full with the ram totally down, it should be 1 1/2" from the top. I like to use a small screwdriver, and wrap tape around the 2" point so I know it's topped off when there is 1/2" of fluid visible. Have you tried the lifting function with the chain to the plow disconnected? You may either have air in system and need to raise and lower it a few times, or the leather packing on the piston may have gone bad, and it is allowing fluid to pass by. If you need a hand troubleshooting over the phone, you can call me at 845-977-7385. I drink lots of coffee, so I don't sleep much.

Walter Ford

Plowing since the Blizzard of '96
Fixing them since '04


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Yeah the chain was off the ram. I'll have to get back to it tomorrow. Any certain type of fluid to use and should I bleed the rest of the lines out?


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## NE-Parts (Oct 28, 2014)

As you move the plow (left, right, up and down), the air will automatically bleed out as the fluid returns to the tank. You could have a valve stuck open, the pump regulator spring broken, or it could be as simple as the piston packing just being no good. They are great pumps, and are real easy to work on. My cell is 914-382-0452, you can call or text when you are outside working on it, and I'll help you get it going, or at least get you going in the right direction.

Walter


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Last time I used it was 2 winters ago. I do remember when I had the blade angled ( left or right, I don't remember ) the snow was pushing the blade straight. Maybe a valve


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## NE-Parts (Oct 28, 2014)

It sounds like tge C valve may have gone bad, or is stuck. Try to remove the coil nearest the power angle hose ports with the green wire. Be careful not ro break the stud off. I find that cutting.down thru tge nut with a hacksaw is the only way to remove it. Its a 1/4" USS nut. Then when the nut is off, the coil should slide right off. If it's jammed on there, youll need a new valve. Also, it will be good to check the crossover valve spring. Its under the acorn nut on the side of the valve body.
Walter


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Quinnian;1855097 said:


> Last time I used it was 2 winters ago. I do remember when I had the blade angled ( left or right, I don't remember ) the snow was pushing the blade straight. Maybe a valve


Hate to say it but sounds like you are ready for an overhaul. Doesn't move, been sitting for two years and blade drifts.

Please do not hacksaw anything. You do that and you are guaranteeing the replacement of the C valve. Not once have I ever had to hacksaw the top of a valve and I seriously question anyone who would do this to a customers pump and give it back to them that way.

If you are still determined to repair it your self download the E47 repair manual from Meyer's site, it's free, and order a rebuild kit. Really not that hard to do.


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## NE-Parts (Oct 28, 2014)

oh gosh, I must have made that come out bad. Not hacksawing the valve, just down thru the nut to take one side off. The relief of tension on the stud will allow the nut to be removed easily. I do it all the time to avoid the stud breaking when trying to remove the b and c nuts.

I'll remember to reread what I'm writing next time to make sure it makes sense.


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Checked the valves, quick question. B valve had a spring and ball bearing. C valve didn't. Is that right? They look good, seals look new but I think my brother inlaw rebuilt that when he had the plow. A valve I couldn't check cuz I didn't know how to remove it. I also broke the nut off that one. Should of did the hack saw trick. The coils are in rough shape and rusty underneath them. Another thing I noticed the oil where the valves set is a mix of brown white and pinkish.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Quinnian;1855377 said:


> Checked the valves, quick question. B valve had a spring and ball bearing. C valve didn't. Is that right? They look good, seals look new but I think my brother inlaw rebuilt that when he had the plow. A valve I couldn't check cuz I didn't know how to remove it. I also broke the nut off that one. Should of did the hack saw trick. The coils are in rough shape and rusty underneath them. Another thing I noticed the oil where the valves set is a mix of brown white and pinkish.


Check ball is under the B valve.

You got water and dirt in the pump. Correct repair is a tear down clean and reseal. At minimum pull top cover and replace wiper seal, this is most likely source of the water. Will also give chance to inspect intake screen.


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## NE-Parts (Oct 28, 2014)

Yes, I agree. At bare minimum remove the cover, and see what the bottom of the tank looks like. If it looks like mud, it is time for a rebuild, or at the very least clean it out really well, remove the strainer and clean it, and install a basic seal kit. (tank o-rings, piston packing, cylinder O-Ring at bottom, plastic o-ring at top, and wiper in top cover and be sure to use the 3 plastic nylite washers under the tank hold down nuts). 

I do have a crazy enough question, do you know which direction the motor is spinning? I have seen a few times that a Northman motor was installed, which turns opposite, and will make the pump not function. The correct motor should turn counter clockwise.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

NE-Parts;1855547 said:


> Yes, I agree. At bare minimum remove the cover, and see what the bottom of the tank looks like. If it looks like mud, it is time for a rebuild, or at the very least clean it out really well, remove the strainer and clean it, and install a basic seal kit. (tank o-rings, piston packing, cylinder O-Ring at bottom, plastic o-ring at top, and wiper in top cover and be sure to use the 3 plastic nylite washers under the tank hold down nuts).
> 
> I do have a crazy enough question, do you know which direction the motor is spinning? I have seen a few times that a Northman motor was installed, which turns opposite, and will make the pump not function. The correct motor should turn counter clockwise.


Not a crazy question. Have seen it many times. Most the time after owner tries to remove motor without wrapping tape around it first and it falls apart. Quick test is to pull pressure filter and run the motor, now this is a messy test. But if intake screen is clogged this test won't work. Reason why asked what exactly was taken apart.


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## NE-Parts (Oct 28, 2014)

Great point about the motor falling apart. It has definitely happened more than once to me, heck, it still happens and I've rebuilt nearly a thousand E-47's in the last 10 years. I keep a diagram of the cap on the bench wall so I can quickly look and make sure that the brushes are in the correct spot. 

I have seen more than a few people who have purchased a 3" motor that looks the same as what they are replacing from big box web sites that really don't specialize in plow stuff, and have gotten one that turns the wrong way. Great idea with the filter port test, by the way!!


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

NE-Parts;1855628 said:


> Great point about the motor falling apart. It has definitely happened more than once to me, heck, it still happens and I've rebuilt nearly a thousand E-47's in the last 10 years. I keep a diagram of the cap on the bench wall so I can quickly look and make sure that the brushes are in the correct spot.
> 
> I have seen more than a few people who have purchased a 3" motor that looks the same as what they are replacing from big box web sites that really don't specialize in plow stuff, and have gotten one that turns the wrong way. Great idea with the filter port test, by the way!!


Not the brushes, if you turn the center section around it will run backwards. Normally don't recommend the filter port est since it makes such a mess.

I wrap electrical tape around the cap of motor to keep them together. Doesn't take much.


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## rcnease (Nov 3, 2013)

I had a similar problem with both an E60 and an E57 pump. Both needed the C valve and coil. It seems like that is what controls some of the other functions of the pump. I am not sure yours will be the same issue, but it might be worth at least testing.


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## Quinnian (Oct 26, 2014)

Just an update. I ordered a coil/valve kit combo off ebay. Got the valves cuz they will need replacement eventually. Got it all for $179.00 thought it was an ok deal. I'll let you know how it works when I get it


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