# What oil do u use???



## chevy$men (Oct 20, 2009)

I want to know what oil is the best?? what do you use? i was told to use heavy oil since we work these trucks i know people use 15-40 diesel oil in there gas truck and got 260,000 and still running like new $$$ or should i go with 5-30 and what brand is the best ???THANK IN ADVANCE


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## elecblu (Feb 20, 2010)

I have (2) '98 chevy k2500. One at 285,000 and the other at 245,000. I run Valvoline 5w-30, at about a 3500 mile interval. Both have excellent oil pressure, so i see no reason to change. I have been using Valvoline for several years. I have not been convinced to start using synthetic oils and going the 10,000 mile oil changes.


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## sweetk30 (Sep 3, 2006)

to thick in newer engines eat's horsepower and fuel mileage.


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## MarkEagleUSA (Nov 27, 2005)

I've been using Mobil1 in all my vehicles for years. Depending on usage I usually go 5000-7500 miles between changes and have never had a problem. For me the key is to check the oil frequently. As soon as it starts getting black, I change it regardless of the mileage.


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## elecblu (Feb 20, 2010)

sweetk30;1386512 said:


> to thick in newer engines eat's horsepower and fuel mileage.


Are you talking about synthetic being to thick? Or 5W-30 being to thick?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

elecblu;1386529 said:


> Are you talking about synthetic being to thick? Or 5W-30 being to thick?


15w-40 is to thick in the new model trucks


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## icudoucme (Dec 3, 2008)

I like castrol synthetic 5w30. I have 125,000miles on my 04 2500hd 6.0.


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## bow2no1 (Oct 6, 2008)

i have used mobil in everything i have owned!

i heard it's best to stay with the same brand of oil as long as you have truck. 
thats what i do, i have never changed one of my own engines!


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## M & MD Lawn (Aug 29, 2010)

I use to run 5w-30 in the summer and 10w-30 in the winter, but now I just run 5w all year round.. mine has 218,000 although It was rebuilt at 193...I change mine every 3000 regardless


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## PLOWMAN45 (Jul 2, 2003)

Well i just bought a brand new truck so I will be using mobil 1 or other sythenic blend


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## jklawn&Plow (Jan 8, 2011)

Oil gets thick when it gets cold. I would never use anything but 5W30 in the winter. My compressor won't even start in the winter with 30W oil in it. Imagine trying to pump thick molasses through some small openings in the engine. Thick heavy weight oil is not recommended for a reason. Maybe if you keep it in a 90 degree garage and never shut it off outside. I'd still only switch up to 10W40 then. I use Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic or Mobil1.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

M & MD Lawn;1386706 said:


> I use to run 5w-30 in the summer and 10w-30 in the winter, but now I just run 5w all year round.. mine has 218,000 although It was rebuilt at 193...I change mine every 3000 regardless


Why did you run 10-30 in the winter and 5-30 in the summer? Kinda backwards. To the OP I use Amsoil keep a drum of 15w-40 and 10w-40 on hand, everything diesel gets 15w-40 and everything with spark plugs gets 10w-40


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## M & MD Lawn (Aug 29, 2010)

NICHOLS LANDSCA;1386809 said:


> Why did you run 10-30 in the winter and 5-30 in the summer? Kinda backwards. To the OP I use Amsoil keep a drum of 15w-40 and 10w-40 on hand, everything diesel gets 15w-40 and everything with spark plugs gets 10w-40


OH DAMN I typed that wrong, I meant 10w in the summer and 5w in the winter, good catch I dont switch anymore since its been rebuilt


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## chevyman51 (Dec 16, 2009)

I run valvolien or how ever you spell it 5w30 in my 95 1500 and its got 187000 miles on it and it runs great.


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

Mobil1 5w-30 year round in my 6.0. No issues at 147,000.


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## Stik208 (Oct 19, 2004)

Mobil 1 High Mileage, 5k intervals.


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## Gear_Head (Apr 29, 2009)

Mobil 1 5W30. I and my father have ran Mobil 1 in everything for the last 20 years with fantastic results. I change at 5000 miles.

I bought my truck with 16000 on the odometer and the previous owner had ran 10W30. I initially agreed with this and did the same, using the old school way of thinking that "thicker" is better. After lots of reading and learning, I realized the previous owner and I were boneheads.

I switched back to 5W30 as the truck manual says to do and my oil pressure went up slightly to my surprise. My point, run what the truck says you are suppose to for weight, they know what they are doing. Pick a quality oil and never look back,


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## chevboy167 (Dec 7, 2011)

ive been running MOBIL 1, 10w-30 since i got my truck new in '99. perfect oil pressure & no problems. change every 3k. a good quality filter helps also. is up to what u prefer and trust.


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## Bigrd1 (Dec 4, 2010)

I run AMSOIL OW-30 in my truck and never had any problems with it.110,000 miles. I used to run Mobil 1 but it breaks down too fast and gets expensive. AMSOIL is more expensive than Mobil 1 but I do oil changes half as often as I used to. Instead of changing my oil every 4000 miles now I do it every 10,000 changing the filter and adding a quart at 3000 and 7500. In the long run I save money and my truck runs a little cooler too.


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

I run Rotella T6 5w40 syn in my Dakota R/T. The half ton dodge (5.9 v8 gasser with 95k on the short block) get's a 10w30 Rotella T3 and 1.5 quarts of Mobil1 10w30. ( It holds 5.5qts because I run the larger 41515 napa filter) My 2500 CTD Dodge get's Rotella T3 15w40 year round and stays plugged in in the winter. I'm thinking about trying the T5 Rotella synblend 10w40 next time. But the 180k mile seals on it leak full syn 5w40 like no other. 

IMHO Diesel rated oils CJ-4 are going to be better than the bulk of off the shelf conventional or synthetic SM/SN. The Diesel rated oils break down at higher temps and have more corrosion inhibitors.


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## zevychevy (Jul 27, 2011)

anyone have a problem with their truck bogging down after 3k miles after oil change and eatin gas and runnin rough? my 03 2500 hd 6.0L gas, did that with regular 10-30w, so i just put in valvoline synpower 10-30 to see how that does. found it kinda weird that it bogs so much after 3k miles hit after i change.its only got 55000 on it also.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

zevychevy;1387756 said:


> anyone have a problem with their truck bogging down after 3k miles after oil change and eatin gas and runnin rough? my 03 2500 hd 6.0L gas, did that with regular 10-30w, so i just put in valvoline synpower 10-30 to see how that does. found it kinda weird that it bogs so much after 3k miles hit after i change.its only got 55000 on it also.


Oil isn't going to cause it to bog down, unless there wasn't any in it


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## zevychevy (Jul 27, 2011)

NICHOLS LANDSCA;1387782 said:


> Oil isn't going to cause it to bog down, unless there wasn't any in it


when i went to drain it, it poured out about 5quarts worth, never added any oil in those 3500 miles. and its as soon as i change the oil, its not bogging and my gas mileage goes back to where it should be. i dont get it but its every time after it hits 3k miles, it starts to bog, then as soon as i change, its full power


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## mnglocker (Dec 24, 2008)

I can tell a difference in my CTD when it had fresh oil. I put a lot of idle time on it. I change it every 3000-3500 on average depending on the hours.


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## 87chevy (Mar 11, 2009)

I use cenex 10-40 high mileage...


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## snowdance (Dec 24, 2011)

I use valvoline semi-synthetic. I change the oil every 7,000km.


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

Schaeffer Oil--oldest oil co. in the U.S. All my trucks and excavating iron are on a steady diet of it.I'm on a SOS with Schaeffer's lab--I go 7K miles on their 15/40 semi-synthetic on my Dmax,could go more but I don't. They're best known for their proprietary use of a different type of a moly additive.


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

I dont believe in the synthetic either. Yes, it's better, but since dino oil is totally sufficient, I go with the cheaper stuff, and I am not breaking engines. I've heard that after 300,000 miles you can look at the inside of a synthetic engine and it looks new, whereas a conventional engine will be worn. Who cares? Why would you want a new looking engine with 300k on it? It's not worth any more to anybody, and there is not likely to be very much truck left surrounding it anyway. 
I change my oil at 5,000 miles on the 5,000 (145k-150k, and so on) because it is the easiest way to remember when its due. Conventional oil is good until beyond 6000, so 5000 is well within the safe range. Just because it looks dark doesnt mean it isnt still lubricating, its a carrier and is supposed to look dark. Just means its working. I normally buy Quaker State 5w30 for most of my vehicles, I think I've got 10w30 in my 454. QS is usually the cheapest at WalMart, outside of their store brand recycled stuff, which I have used without a problem, but I dont really like to. If not Quaker State then Pennzoil or Valvoline. My diesel only ever got Rotella 15w40.
If it makes you feel special, and think your motor will thank you, then go ahead and use synthetic, but I think it's a waste, especially since I only buy used vehicles with some miles on them already. 
Best bet is to go with the weight the manufacturer recommends-they pay those pointy-headed engineers a lot of money for a reason. I've known a lot of guys who think they're smarter than engine designers, and tell you to run 15w40 in everything year round. Or to switch to a heavier oil for winter. Then a conversation reveals they don't even know what the numbers or the letter mean. 
I prefer Wix filters (also Napa Gold) but I've used a few hundred cheapo Frams without a bit of trouble.


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