# Meyer Electro-touch overload problem



## Elkhunter

I'm new to this whole thing, so I hope someone can help me out. I bought a 2005 Ford F250 with a Meyer c-7.5 Plow. It is equipped with the E-60 Power Unit and the Electro-Touch controller. I initially had a problem wherein once I angled the plow, the red light on the Electro-touch controller would come on, and I would have to turn it off and then back on again to re-set it. It now does that all the time whenever I turn the blade either to the right or the left. The blade turns fine, it's just that once turned, the overload light comes on and the plow is frozen until you "reset" it by turning it off and on again. The owner's manual indicates that the overload will occur due to overheating or a short circuit. Since this occurs right off the bat before I even move the vehicle, I am assuming that it is due to a short-circuit. Has anyone ever had this problem before, and where should I start to try and fix it??? Help!!!!


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## B&B

Has it ever tripped the overload light while raising the plow?


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## MickiRig1

Might try cleaning all the connections on the pump motor and such. Check the controllers plug too,it may have gunk in it somewhere. Put dielectric on all the connections to protect them. There may be a trouble shooting section on the plow manufacturers web site that may be of use. I would not think the pumps motor is failing this soon but you never know. I don't know if the controller can even sense an over draw of amps. See if you can find someone with the same controller. Bribe them with a _6 pack of beverage _to try their controller on your system.


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## Elkhunter

B&B;385933 said:


> Has it ever tripped the overload light while raising the plow?


It does!! Generally at the top of the throw. I also downloaded the service manual for the lift system and it says that the overload will occur if there is a short circuit, an open circuit or overheating. So, now it "overloads" in every direction but down. Up, Left, Right, and just about every time I move the darn thing. So I'm thinking that the only common denominator is when the pump is running to push fluid, the darn thing overloads. The only time is doesn't is when I'm lowering the blade. HELP!!!!

I checked the fluid level and it is fine.


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## K&L Salting

*control pad*

My brother had the same problem with his Myers and it was the contol pad. He got a new controler from someone in Ohio that sells all types of parts at a greatly reduced price. I think it was almost 50% off list.


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## basher

Elkhunter;386305 said:


> It does!! Generally at the top of the throw. I also downloaded the service manual for the lift system and it says that the overload will occur if there is a short circuit, an open circuit or overheating. So, now it "overloads" in every direction but down. Up, Left, Right, and just about every time I move the darn thing. So I'm thinking that the only common denominator is when the pump is running to push fluid, the darn thing overloads. The only time is doesn't is when I'm lowering the blade. HELP!!!!
> 
> I checked the fluid level and it is fine.


Check the ground.


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## Elkhunter

K&L Salting;386325 said:


> My brother had the same problem with his Myers and it was the contol pad. He got a new controler from someone in Ohio that sells all types of parts at a greatly reduced price. I think it was almost 50% off list.


Can you find out where he got it from just in case? I'll try and check the ground first though to see if that doesn't help fix the problem.


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## B&B

Since it's doing it in all three power functions, then like Basher already mentioned, check the grounds before condeming the controller.This includes where the controller connects to the harness under the dash,where the harness grounds under the hood (will be an orange wire) and especially the ground cable connections at the pump and where it attaches to the battery.


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## Elkhunter

O.K., I'm going to give that a shot on Monday. Now for the stupid question, should I just check out to make sure they have clean connections at the attachment points, or is there some sort of testing of the wires that I should do??


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## MickiRig1

Like I said check and clean all the connections and put dielectric grease on them.
Whenever you have problems do this first!
Most times it's the connections.Not the components.
Why spend money instead of time?
Dielectric grease is cheap compared to relays and connection plugs.


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## basher

Elkhunter;386607 said:


> O.K., Now for the stupid question, should I just check out to make sure they have clean connections at the attachment points, or is there some sort of testing of the wires that I should do??


do a continuity test on all the ground wires, only takes a minute.


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## Elkhunter

Thanks a ton guys. I'm out of town, but will give this a shot on Tuesday and see if it solves my problems. I'll let you know!


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## Elkhunter

Well, I disconnected, cleaned, greased and reconnected all connections. Also ran continuity check on the ground all the way from the pump to the controller and it checked out fine. Still does it..... I'm in a quandry......


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## B&B

Elkhunter;386908 said:


> Well, I disconnected, cleaned, greased and reconnected all connections. Also ran continuity check on the ground all the way from the pump to the controller and it checked out fine. Still does it..... I'm in a quandry......


Does that include the battery cable from the pump to the battery? Dont forget it too, as that can cause the problem also. If you did cover it too, then you may have a defective controller. Thats not uncommon at all.


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## Elkhunter

Thanks for all the help guys. I did check the cable from the pump to the battery as well. All connections were cleaned, greased and checked for continuity. I found a guy who is going to send me a controller to try and if it doesn't work he'll give me my money back. I'm a bit concerned that a controller at ($175) would break within the first two years, but what the heck. He told me that if it was the controller, and it breaks again, he would change over to a non-digital old-style joystick controller. They last forever and are much cheaper. I'll keep you posted so that if others have this same problem in the future, we'll know how to help them out.


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## B&B

Elkhunter;387172 said:


> I'm a bit concerned that a controller at ($175) would break within the first two years, but what the heck. He told me that if it was the controller, and it breaks again, he would change over to a non-digital old-style joystick controller. They last forever and are much cheaper. I'll keep you posted so that if others have this same problem in the future, we'll know how to help them out.


It's been covered here before that the Meyer touch pads are not the most durable thing out there so I'm not surprised that your is only 2 years old and it might be shot. You mentioned going back to the old style joystick/toggle switch style controller, I did the same thing strictly for the reliability and field serviceability. Keep us posted on the outcome.


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## AbsoluteH&L

Yeah I use the slik stick on my stuff, and I have a spare in the glove box too. I'm not into new and fancy, it's to unreliable. Heck I had an old push-pull mechanical valve set-up on one older set-up. No grounds to go bad no cables to bind. Keep it simple.


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## B&B

Elkhunter;387172 said:


> Thanks for all the help guys. I did check the cable from the pump to the battery as well. All connections were cleaned, greased and checked for continuity. I found a guy who is going to send me a controller to try and if it doesn't work he'll give me my money back. I'm a bit concerned that a controller at ($175) would break within the first two years, but what the heck. He told me that if it was the controller, and it breaks again, he would change over to a non-digital old-style joystick controller. They last forever and are much cheaper. I'll keep you posted so that if others have this same problem in the future, we'll know how to help them out.


One other thing you might want to check is the under-hood solenoid. If is doesn't have a good ground (it's self grounding through the mounting screws) or the white trigger wire has a poor connection at the solenoid, It'll also cause the overload icon to light up.


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## MickiRig1

I like my old switch style controls. I have had the truck for like 6 years and have had not one problem. The system before it was a Western cable control. Other then arm fatigue from operating the T stick it work flawless too.


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## Elkhunter

Wow, check this out. I got the new controlller, plugged it in and, you guessed it, same problem. So, I took it back to the shop and the guy hooked it up to one of their trucks, it worked just fine so he gave me my money back. Then, I called Meyer. Before I could finish telling the guy what was wrong, and what I had already rulled out, he said it's the motor solenoid! (Hey Hey B&B!!!) He said that if I used any other controller, it would still be working, but when they *start* to go bad, then they trip the overload on the controller. That's when you know to replace it before you get stuck with it totally gone. I checked the solenoid with a multimeter and it seemed fine, so it must *just be starting* to go..

My guy didn't have any, so I found one online for $5. I'll keep you posted! Thanks again guys!


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## MickiRig1

The pump motor may be starting to go too. Replace the solenoid and see if that corrects the problem. If you have worked the plow over 100 hours a year. I would look at the pump motor. They can wear out quicker sometimes.If it's a used plow that was installed, God knows how many hours were put on it!
An auto Electronics rebuild shop might have rebuilt motors a lot cheaper then other suppliers. I am talking $90 vers $150 for new.Most even repaint it Yellow.


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## Elkhunter

*Problem Solved!*

Problem Solved!! It was the motor Solenoid. Thanks to everyone for your help, it is greatly appreciated.


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## B&B

Glad to hear it's fixed Elk! When dealing with an overload light on a touch pad, sometime's the under hood solenoid get's over looked as a potential cause since in a lot of cases, it's either the controller itself or a poor connection at the pump wire connection's.Alot of guy's don't know that the solenoid can cause the same problem too.


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## MickiRig1

Try to have an extra one on hand too. During the huge storm we had in Feb the contractor I work for had a truck go down. He said the plow would not raise so I figured it was a bigger sarfari then a solenoid. Nope, and he does not have spares,for middle of the storm fixes.


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## Elkhunter

B&B and MickiRig, I can't thank you guys enough for all your help and keeping with the situation like you did. You guys are awesome.


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## B&B

Elkhunter;388781 said:


> B&B and MickiRig, I can't thank you guys enough for all your help and keeping with the situation like you did. You guys are awesome.


 Glad to help you out Elk and thanks for the kind words. I'm sure MikiRig feels the same way.


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## MickiRig1

No problem. I love to help people out, it must be the Paramedic in me.


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## icebeer

*meyer pump snags*

There are several things that could cause the overload. The main plug connection on the truck may not be making good contact. This has been an ongoing problem w/myers electrical connection. A little dielectric grease and making sure the connection is tight may solve the problem. I also had this problem when the control pad was faulty. It may need replaced. One of the two is probably the answer.


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## DesMoines2500

I'm having a similar problem with a new Meyer with an e60 I just purchased. Going to have a look at it tomorrow, hopefully this thread helps!


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