# Ford 7.3L Rebuild



## kimber750

Figure I would start a thread on rebuilding a 7.3L for those that want to follow along. The other week I noticed that my oil pan was beginning to leak. So I was left with the decision of pull motor, replace the pan and put it back in. Or buy another engine rebuild it then swap engines. I choose to swap engines. Found a used 03 for $400. So right now I am in the tear down process to see what parts need to be ordered.

Hear the $400 engine.










Mounted on stand, exhaust manifolds off. 









Injectors and glow plugs removed.









Injectors appear to be in decent condition except O rings are shot. No matter since getting reman for it. 









Can kind of see how bad O ring is here.


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## Dogplow Dodge

Thanks Kimber,

I love these kinds of threads which chronicle a particular task. They can be extremely helpful should someone else decide to do the same job. Kind of like, paying it forwards, without actually knowing who gets it.

Thumbs Up


Soobscribed....


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## kimber750

Got some more parts off.

Very pleased to still some cross hatching.































Passenger head and turbo and pedestal off. 









Gonna be a shame to turn these in for cores.


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## JMHConstruction

If all goes to plan, what are you expecting to put into this when it's said and done?


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## kimber750

JMHConstruction said:


> If all goes to plan, what are you expecting to put into this when it's said and done?


$8-10K


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## kimber750

Or did you mean just the engine? $5-7K


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## Randall Ave

If the exhaust manifold areas are not rotted, do the heads yourself. You have s valve grinder, seat tools.


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## John_DeereGreen

Any plans in upping power levels? I haven't looked at any 7.3 parts for several years but I would think for that budget now you could have a pretty good running truck.

It'll be neat to watch this progress.


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## FredG

I know if you had to buy a rebuild it would be all of 10K. To find one for $400.00 is a absolute steal in IMO.


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## Dogplow Dodge

FredG said:


> I know if you had to buy a rebuild it would be all of 10K. To find one for $400.00 is a absolute steal in IMO.


And one that's in a good of condition that this one is. All that cross hatching.... do you know how many miles on the motor ? History ? Did it smoke, or did you get to hear it run before you got it ?

Someone took care of it, or so it appears.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> If the exhaust manifold areas are not rotted, do the heads yourself. You have s valve grinder, seat tools.


I have a lapping set, that's it. More concerned about cracks. The last 7.3 I did ended up having a cracked head. So with machine work, replacement head and having original heads tested I was around $1600 to have them done. I can buy reman heads with 3 year warranty for $1200.



John_DeereGreen said:


> Any plans in upping power levels? I haven't looked at any 7.3 parts for several years but I would think for that budget now you could have a pretty good running truck.
> 
> It'll be neat to watch this progress.


Upgrades will be mainly to the turbo. Haven't decided exactly what except losing EBPV.



Dogplow Dodge said:


> And one that's in a good of condition that this one is. All that cross hatching.... do you know how many miles on the motor ? History ? Did it smoke, or did you get to hear it run before you got it ?
> 
> Someone took care of it, or so it appears.


Guy said it was over 200k, which I find hard to believe. He bought it at auction and drove it home. Pulled engine thinking it was a 6.0 so I never heard it run. All I could really do was see if crank was free and overall condition. Since I had already planned on tearing it down that is all I was really concerned with.


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## JMHConstruction

kimber750 said:


> I have a lapping set, that's it. More concerned about cracks. The last 7.3 I did ended up having a cracked head. So with machine work, replacement head and having original heads tested I was around $1600 to have them done. I can buy reman heads with 3 year warranty for $1200.
> 
> Upgrades will be mainly to the turbo. Haven't decided exactly what except losing EBPV.
> 
> Guy said it was over 200k, which I find hard to believe. He bought it at auction and drove it home. Pulled engine thinking it was a 6.0 so I never heard it run. All I could really do was see if crank was free and overall condition. Since I had already planned on tearing it down that is all I was really concerned with.


For $400 did he still think it was the 6.0? That is a steal they're thousands out here.


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## kimber750

Junk yards here start at $1500 and go up. Was little worried at first since CL ad was a bit sketchy.

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/pts/5853464762.html


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## 1olddogtwo

You paid full price, here I thought you were a Savvy Shopper....


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## kimber750

1olddogtwo said:


> You paid full price, here I thought you were a Savvy Shopper....


I got him to deliver it from about an hour away.


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## kimber750

HPOP, Fuel filter housing and timing cover removed. Got the other head and cam out but need to snap some more pics later.


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## JMHConstruction

kimber750 said:


> Junk yards here start at $1500 and go up. Was little worried at first since CL ad was a bit sketchy.
> 
> http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/pts/5853464762.html


I knew a guy named Miles, maybe he was just saying hello.
He sure wasn't very descriptive was he...


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## Sawboy

Am I seeing that correctly? No timing chain on a 7.3? Direct crank to cam gear?


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## Randall Ave

Sawboy said:


> Am I seeing that correctly? No timing chain on a 7.3? Direct crank to cam gear?


Yup, no chain, the high pressure oil pump runs off the top of the cam gear. I've never seen a chain on a diesel yet.


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## Sawboy

Never been inside of a diesel. Learn something new every day!


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## kimber750

Sawboy said:


> Am I seeing that correctly? No timing chain on a 7.3? Direct crank to cam gear?


Yep like Randall said I have yet to see a chain on a diesel. See that flat part on the crank snout, that is what drives the oil pump. In first pic you can see the protrusion on timing cover that houses the oil pump.


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## kimber750

Pics as promised.

Cam.










Driver side cylinder look just as good as other side.
















Getting there. Ream main seal holder and rotating assembly is all the is really left.









Cam out.









Cam bearing.


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## kimber750

Some more.

All the injectors.

Oil cooler was leaking.









Lower end.
















Pile of parts, hope I remember where they all go. :hammerhead:









Most likely won't have a chance to pull lower end apart until next weekend and even then weather wizards are saying snow.


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## kimber750

Wasn't tired and wife was asleep so headed out to garage to pull more parts out of the 7.3.
























Even rod bearing look great.


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## kimber750

Piston skirt










Only real damage I have found so far.









All the pistons and rods removed. Journals all look great.
















Showing how little wear is on the cylinders.









Couldn't be more pleased with condition of my $400 engine. Next is start measuring everything but looks I will be saving well over $1k if I don't need pistons, boring or crank work.


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## Randall Ave

How are the ring lands on the pistons? Remove the oil sprays before you hone it. I'm sure you no all this.


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## Dogplow Dodge

Wow,

That engine looks brandy new inside. You should be arrested for stealing that engine.


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## Dogplow Dodge

Sawboy said:


> Am I seeing that correctly? No timing chain on a 7.3? Direct crank to cam gear?


Cummins 5.9 is the same. Everything, including the oil pump is driven by gears, such as you see here in my 12valve.


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## SnoFarmer

Must have been useing Howes and buring 500ppm+ fuel...


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> How are the ring lands on the pistons? Remove the oil sprays before you hone it. I'm sure you no all this.


It is actually suggested to put new ones in after rotating assembly is back in.


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## kimber750

Had crank out briefly to measure journals. Mains 3.124 across the board. Rods 2.498-2.499. All within factory specs. No uneven wear on bearings so no need to align hone. Not a mark anywhere on journals so no crank work needed either. So all I need machine shop to do is cook, magnaflux, hone, cam bearings and deck the block. I will get some pics after I build a stand for the crank. Did drop a freeze plug into the block so once crank is out I will have to get that. :hammerhead:


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## ktfbgb

This is going to be an awesome thread. These pictures show that it really is true that the diesel trucks fall apart around the motor long before the motor goes bad as long as you take care of it.

P.S. I did see the sulfur jab in there Sno lol.


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## kimber750

Good thing is I can finally start ordering some parts. payup


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## kimber750

While removing all the block plugs I stripped one of them.


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## kimber750

Main bearings and cam bearing came in today but my clevite cam bearings turned out to be sealed power bearings.  So those went back. Annoying because I need the cam bearing to take block to the machine shop. Will take another week to get the Clevite bearings in. So while I wait I decided to go over the heads since the rest of the engine is in good shape. If valve guides are still good I will rebuild these heads, if not I will buy reman heads.


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## Randall Ave

Your problems with sealed power are?


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Your problems with sealed power are?


Have only every used Clevite and I paid the money for Clevite. I don't think Sealed Power are junk just not what I paid for. Also only using felpro gaskets, Melling and Mahle.


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## Randall Ave

Personally never had any problem with sealed power. Would not be surprised if the same company made them both.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Personally never had any problem with sealed power. Would not be surprised if the same company made them both.


I will have to give them a try on the next engine. Have a 289 Holman Moody that needs rebuilt.


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## Jeep_thing

Sealed Power are Federal Mogul bearings, they've been around forever and are high quality, but I am like you and stick to brands that have served me well.


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## kimber750

Finally had a chance to measure the bores. 4.110-4.1105 couldn't be happier. Hoping to get it dropped off to machine shop tomorrow, if not it will go Monday if there is no snow. I will get some pics tomorrow of the crank and bare block. I have all the bearings, rings should be here in the next day or two. Have a bunch of parts I need to get ready so I can take to Freightshaker to put in their parts washer. Then pull heads apart to check guides. After that I will decide if I am rebuilding heads or buying reman. Injectors go in next week for flow testing, still plan to buy reman but I would like to know what condition these are in.


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## rjigto4oje

Dogplow Dodge said:


> Cummins 5.9 is the same. Everything, including the oil pump is driven by gears, such as you see here in my 12valve.
> 
> View attachment 169449


I hope you did the killer dowl pin fix , I'm sure you did


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## Dogplow Dodge

rjigto4oje said:


> I hope you did the killer dowl pin fix , I'm sure you did


Yup.
That's when I took those photos.
Fun, 1 day project


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## kimber750

Hey now this is a Ford thread.


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## Randall Ave

Navistar!


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Navistar!


International.


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## Dogplow Dodge

kimber750 said:


> International.





kimber750 said:


> Hey now this is a Ford thread.
> 
> View attachment 170022


Tell it to MJD and get me banned !

GO ahead !

I dare ya !

I double dog dare ya !

:waving:


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## JMHConstruction

Dogplow Dodge said:


> Tell it to MJD and get me banned !
> 
> GO ahead !
> 
> I dare ya !
> 
> I double dog dare ya !
> 
> :waving:


Just say hi to GV for us, but you can leave bird out of it


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## JMHConstruction

^^^ clicked on the wrong smiley, but I'm sticking with it


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## Randall Ave

GV is fine. A little bored. Last I heard Birds a library security guard.


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## Randall Ave

JMHConstruction said:


> ^^^ clicked on the wrong smiley, but I'm sticking with it


Smilies like that people gonna think your joining the other team.


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## Sawboy

I'm curious, I know it's not a Ford rebuked question like the topic, but what's this Dodge pin mod?


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## SnoFarmer

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=killer+dowel+pin+cummins&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001


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## Sawboy

Whoa


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## Dogplow Dodge

Sawboy said:


> Whoa


Yup. When it falls out it causes havoc as it falls into the gears I posted pic of earlier, chopping teeth off and cracking the aluminum gear case that covers it all. Best scenario, is it falls into the oil pan. And out the drain plug during an oil change

Didn't click on the link above, but I'm sure its similar.

Back to furd stuff

Lol


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## Randall Ave

Intertrashenal, thats what we call them. And if I remember Cat was involved in the injection design.


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## kimber750

All ready for machine shop.










All this because this dumb piece of stamped steel.
















For those that don't know, this is a crankshaft. :hammerhead:
















Last thing that I had to remove was piston coolers.


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## BUFF

Crank has a few pits on it or is that moisture?


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## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Crank has a few pits on it or is that moisture?


Moisture on top of the oil. Having some really strange warm, cold, wet weather.


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## Randall Ave

Your getting that crank polished?


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## Dogplow Dodge

Randall Ave said:


> Your getting that crank polished?


I think he said in a previous post that the crank was within tolerance, and could just be cleaned up. Maybe they re balance them too ?


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## Randall Ave

It can be within its specs, but could still need some attention. It should already be balanced. And in a low rpm engine as these are not really necessary. He could get crazy and have it checked for stroke, have the rods resized, cam polished, I can keep going, but on this application not really needed. All depends how much money he wants to throw at it.


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## kimber750

No crank work. Crank has a heavy coat of oil on it in pic and to be honest is a dirty from being in the shop. Journals are in excellent shape. No scarring or any other marks.


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## kimber750

And finally off to machine shop.


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## BUFF

Engine Machine shops are becoming a thing of the past with the exception of a few specialty shops that focus on performance builds.


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## Defcon 5

BUFF said:


> Engine Machine shops are becoming a thing of the past with the exception of a few specialty shops that focus on performance builds.


Isn't that the truth....now a days if you can't fix it with a computer... nobody wants to get their hands dirty...


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## kimber750

I have been using these guys for many many years. Everything from alcohol burning Briggs, ATV and dirtbike engines, a R block 331 twin turbo and one other 7.3 rebuild. I have 3-4 machine shops within about an hour of me but these guys have always been good to me. One other local shop, Ryders, only seems to like to work on race stuff. They don't like to be bothered with this boring stock rebuilds. 

Bill should be right around $450 for honing, shot blast, hot tank, resurfacing, magnaflux block and cam bearings which is about $1000 less then I had budgeted for machining. They are looking into finding me stainless freeze plugs so bill may go up a bit.


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## BUFF

Defcon 5 said:


> Isn't that the truth....now a days if you can't fix it with a computer... nobody wants to get their hands dirty...


I have a K-5 Blazer with unknown miles on 350sb, in 2 cylinders the valves are blowing by. To redo the heads and gaskets,etc..... I'm looking at $700.00<>, I can by a long block GM crate motor from Summit racing with a 1yr 12k warranty for $1650.00 delivered https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10067353/overview/make/chevrolet


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## kimber750

BUFF said:


> I have a K-5 Blazer with unknown miles on 350sb, in 2 cylinders the valves are blowing by. To redo the heads and gaskets,etc..... I'm looking at $700.00<>, I can by a long block GM crate motor from Summit racing with a 1yr 12k warranty for $1650.00 delivered https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10067353/overview/make/chevrolet


You could almost buy a pair of AFR heads for the price of the crate engine.


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## ktfbgb

BUFF said:


> I have a K-5 Blazer with unknown miles on 350sb, in 2 cylinders the valves are blowing by. To redo the heads and gaskets,etc..... I'm looking at $700.00<>, I can by a long block GM crate motor from Summit racing with a 1yr 12k warranty for $1650.00 delivered https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10067353/overview/make/chevrolet


I had an 86 K5 with a 4" lift on it several years ago. It was a super fun vehicle. I seriously regret selling it.


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## BUFF

Lets not drift too far away from the topic......


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## Mark Oomkes

BUFF said:


> Lets not drift too far away from the topic......


Kinda hard to drift when there isn't any snow.


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## BUFF

Mark Oomkes said:


> Kinda hard to drift when there isn't any snow.


Drift can also be created by wind and water current or a combination of the two.....


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## SnoFarmer

BUFF said:


> Drift can also be created by wind and water current or a combination of the two.....


Oh, look, what do Ya know, Sherman retained some knowledge....


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## BUFF

SnoFarmer said:


> Oh, look, what do Ya know, Sherman retained some knowledge....


I'm a work in progress......... for the past 54yrs.....


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## kimber750

Getting things ready for parts washer.

Oil Cooler. Actual cooler is being replaced, reusing the two ends. 























Rear main seal









Oil pump, will put a new Melling pump on.









HPOP screen. Little bit of crude in it.


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## Randall Ave

Replace the oil cooler ends, they tend to get beat up from the o rings. And the front sometimes gets ugly from corrosion. Just my opinion.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Replace the oil cooler ends, they tend to get beat up from the o rings. And the front sometimes gets ugly from corrosion. Just my opinion.


You just added about $600 to my rebuild cost.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Replace the oil cooler ends, they tend to get beat up from the o rings. And the front sometimes gets ugly from corrosion. Just my opinion.


You just added about $600 to my rebuild cost.


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## Randall Ave

kimber750 said:


> You just added about $600 to my rebuild cost.


You can do it right, or do it twice.


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## kimber750

I would say you are over doing it a bit but I am the one building a new engine because of a leaky oil pan.


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## Randall Ave

kimber750 said:


> I would say you are over doing it a bit but I am the one building a new engine because of a leaky oil pan.


Nope, just over tired here. The last cooler I got was like 400 for everything. Got epoxy on my oil pan on the 02 7.3. going to swing that out in the spring.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Nope, just over tired here. The last cooler I got was like 400 for everything. Got epoxy on my oil pan on the 02 7.3. going to swing that out in the spring.


I got the OEM pan for around $220 and the tube for another $40. Try to avoid aftermarket parts. Moroso makes a pan for around $300 and claim it has some special coating to prevent rust but OEM pan lasted 15 years. Figure another 15 year and all I will have left is 4 tires and an engine, everything will have rusted away.


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## Randall Ave

I have some paper work somewhere at shop, company makes the pans in stainless steel. I always give them a few coats of paint.


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## Randall Ave

The Cat pans come thru in a bag of grease, but no paint. For what they cost, they should be powder coated.


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## kimber750

I am trying to find stainless freeze plugs. Guessing that is what was in it since they were not magnetic. Gonna have to see what they dealer says next week. Then have to get the new seal on injectors so I can get them tested. Still buying new injectors but want to know if the old ones are any good. And hoping to start going over heads this weekend.


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## Randall Ave

If your dealers good, they can look them up, or if you have a IH dealer around, same parts.


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## Mark Oomkes

Stainless oil pans?

Those oil coolers are a PITA.


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## Randall Ave

Mark Oomkes said:


> Stainless oil pans?
> 
> Those oil coolers are a PITA.


Yes, and no.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> The Cat pans come thru in a bag of grease, but no paint. For what they cost, they should be powder coated.


I got a hookup for Cat parts. Well for just any about any parts. Did manifolds and risers on a pair of 3208s in Dads boat years ago. He priced it through the marina and it would been cheaper to just sink the boat. I got the parts for 1/4 of what he was quoted.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> If your dealers good, they can look them up, or if you have a IH dealer around, same parts.


Strange thing is part# is 6206 but then there 3 different sizes still listed as 6206.


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## kimber750

Randall, you want me to save you any of the parts I am not reusing? Exhaust manifolds, up pipes, intake spider thingy (out of van so no intercooler), pedestal, maybe even the turbo if I don't need it for a core.


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## Randall Ave

The.Part number may be a set of all of them? I appreciate the offer, but there is just no room in this place. Shops just to dam small
If I was closer, I'd come over and help ya.


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## Dogplow Dodge

Randall Ave said:


> The.Part number may be a set of all of them? I appreciate the offer, but there is just no room in this place. Shops just to dam small
> If I was closer, I'd come over and help ya.


You'd do anything to help out a fiend....

Thumbs Up


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## Randall Ave

I do not mind doing engine assembly as long as I am not rushed. Which doesn't happen here often. We would have an 855 Cummins here, the pistons, liners on the floor. In three hours the dam thing would be close to done. Torquing those heads was fun. The old 220s were worse, I think those head bolts were at 400lbs. To dam old to remember.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> The.Part number may be a set of all of them? I appreciate the offer, but there is just no room in this place. Shops just to dam small
> If I was closer, I'd come over and help ya.


Don't know but will find out next week when I stop by dealer. Appreciate the offer, have tons of people that want to help. A lot of my friends aren't mechanically inclined so this stuff just amazes them. My brother and I have built many engines over the years but he has 4 kids now so not much free time.



Randall Ave said:


> I do not mind doing engine assembly as long as I am not rushed. Which doesn't happen here often. We would have an 855 Cummins here, the pistons, liners on the floor. In three hours the dam thing would be close to done. Torquing those heads was fun. The old 220s were worse, I think those head bolts were at 400lbs. To dam old to remember.


I enjoy the assemble also, don't like the assembly lube. Sticky crap and gets all over everything.


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## Randall Ave

I put cam assembly lube on a camshaft. On mains or rods I use 50wt, or I will make some out of white grease and oil. Have you ever rolled a set in a Cummins or a Mack. It's fun.


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## crazyboy

kimber750 said:


> Randall, you want me to save you any of the parts I am not reusing? Exhaust manifolds, up pipes, intake spider thingy (out of van so no intercooler), pedestal, maybe even the turbo if I don't need it for a core.


Are the manifolds and up pipes in good condition? Interested in shipping?


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## kimber750

crazyboy said:


> Are the manifolds and up pipes in good condition? Interested in shipping?


I only offered them to Randall because I kinda know him. If you are interested I will get some pics and we can work something out. They are in good shape except one up pipe was leaking at the doughnut. Also you would need new bolts.


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> I put cam assembly lube on a camshaft. On mains or rods I use 50wt, or I will make some out of white grease and oil. Have you ever rolled a set in a Cummins or a Mack. It's fun.


Have always used Lucas assembly lube except for 2 strokers, they just get drenched in 2 stroke oil. Oddly enough Group K recommends pistons and rings be installed dry.


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## Randall Ave

I can't remember what I used on my Suzuki's. Did a lot of bike motors. Did my 550 two stroke. Put 30 over racing pistons in. That was more stable at 100mph than my gsl 1100. I raced some Moto cross in 1975. That's how old I am.


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## SnoFarmer

Group K is still around?


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## SnoFarmer

Dale's performance in long lake....


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## crazyboy

kimber750 said:


> I only offered them to Randall because I kinda know him. If you are interested I will get some pics and we can work something out. They are in good shape except one up pipe was leaking at the doughnut. Also you would need new bolts.


I assumed that was why you offered them. I'm actually considering selling the truck, so probably not worth it for you to go through the effort. Have enjoyed following this project so far though!


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## Dogplow Dodge

Can't wait to see the clean parts come back from the machine shop. The few motors I rebuilt myself (351m Ferd, and a 340 mopar) were fun to do, and I remember how excited I was to get them back to me all nice and pristine.


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## kimber750

SnoFarmer said:


> Group K is still around?


Yep, had Harry build a 849 last year.


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## kimber750

SnoFarmer said:


> Group K is still around?


Stock 750 cylinder.










849 cylinder Thumbs Up


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## kimber750

Found a company selling oil jets that are actually welded in place instead of pressed. They came in today along with new bolts for them and a new deflector that I broke of one of the injectors.


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## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Found a company selling oil jets that are actually welded in place instead of pressed. They came in today along with new bolts for them and a new deflector that I broke of one of the injectors.
> 
> View attachment 170297


Sweet....... what was the difference in cost?


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## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Sweet....... what was the difference in cost?


About $1.50 each. Have heard a few stories of the factory ones coming apart. Some get lucky others didn't. My concern would be if it did come apart and did no damage by the time you figured it out it would be too late. Now I don't run the truck hard enough to worry about melting the piston down but would guess the lack of oil would cause damage in the long run.


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## BUFF

Wow, I figured they'd be closer to $10.00 more.


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## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Wow, I figured they'd be closer to $10.00 more.


OEM around $8.80 each. These are just over $10. Well worth the extra cost IMO.


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## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> OEM around $8.80 each. These are just over $10. Well worth the extra cost IMO.


It's a no brainer.....


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## Mark Oomkes

Never heard of that issue, but I'd do the same thing. 

Probably some idiot accountant at IH thought it was a great idea to save a buck fitty.


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## kimber750

Quick update, Machine shop calls to inform that with honing and stock pistons I will be within .001" of limit for piston wall clearance in a few small areas.  So looks like I am going to buying pistons. This is what I get for assuming pistons were good. :hammerhead: A week to get pistons in then a few days for shop to hone for clearance.


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## Randall Ave

Sooo, your going oversize, or new standard, what did the skirts look like?


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## BUFF

Randall Ave said:


> Sooo, your going oversize, or new standard, what did the skirts look like?


Mine looks like this........


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## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> Sooo, your going oversize, or new standard, what did the skirts look like?


Going .020" over. Skirts look good IMO. Machine shop has old pistons at the moment.











BUFF said:


> Mine looks like this........


Thinking we would be seeing a lot more knee if that was you.


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## Randall Ave

Hope he's not going commando. . This is why I think all Diesel's should be a sleeved engine.


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## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Going .020" over. Skirts look good IMO. Machine shop has old pistons at the moment.
> View attachment 170486
> 
> 
> Thinking we would be seeing a lot more knee if that was you.


Mulch more knee shown would result in something most guys don't want to see....


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Mulch more knee shown would result in something most guys don't want to see....


----------



## Dogplow Dodge

Uh,
How many times do I have to ask ?????

This is an IH Thread..... Let's keep the subject on course please. 

Thanks !:waving:


----------



## Randall Ave

Dogplow Dodge said:


> Uh,
> How many times do I have to ask ?????
> 
> This is an IH Thread..... Let's keep the subject on course please.
> 
> Thanks !:waving:


Imaginary testosterone.


----------



## kimber750

Pistons came in but I can't use them. Anyone guess why?


----------



## ktfbgb

Because they don't fit.


----------



## ktfbgb

Seriously though in Auto Shop in High School we never got to work on a Diesel so I have no idea.


----------



## kimber750

ktfbgb said:


> Seriously though in Auto Shop in High School we never got to work on a Diesel so I have no idea.


Not a diesel thing. Anyone that rebuilds any engine can see why these pistons won't work in a block that has been bored.


----------



## Randall Ave

Stamped standard bore, and your making a drag truck diesel. You should be about 450 CI.


----------



## SnoFarmer

They have a std.


----------



## Randall Ave

He has substandard testosterone deficiency?


----------



## Mark Oomkes

SnoFarmer said:


> They have a std.


I thought antibiotics would fix that?


----------



## kimber750

Yep they sent standard bore pistons. Had the correct ones sent next day directly to machine shop. They got there this afternoon so hoping I will have the block back by the end of the week. Since putting new pistons in I had them go ahead and press new piston pin bushings in.


----------



## Sawboy

Yep. Standard bore


----------



## ktfbgb

kimber750 said:


> Not a diesel thing. Anyone that rebuilds any engine can see why these pistons won't work in a block that has been bored.


I figured it had to do with size.


----------



## Sawboy

ktfbgb said:


> I figured it had to do with size.


Doesn't it always.....


----------



## BUFF




----------



## Mark Oomkes

Sawboy said:


> Doesn't it always.....


Not for some of us....


----------



## Randall Ave

BUFF said:


> View attachment 170736


This reminds me, it's lunch time!!


----------



## SnoFarmer

is not


----------



## Mark Oomkes

SnoFarmer said:


> is not


----------



## Randall Ave

SnoFarmer said:


> is not


Union rules here.


----------



## SnoFarmer

Union rules lunch is at 12:00- 12:30

1st break 10:00-10:15
2nd break 2:15 -2:30


----------



## Randall Ave

You've been around that union guy to long. Hour lunch here.


----------



## kimber750

Will unpack it later.


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Will unpack it later.
> 
> View attachment 170789
> View attachment 170790


So was the bill aboot $967.27?


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> So was the bill aboot $967.27?


Somewhere around there or about 3/4 of a Kimber.


----------



## kimber750

And here it is.

Decked 0.005"









Bored 0.020" over then honed for 0.005" piston wall clearance.









Using old piston to set ring in bore.









Began checking ring gaps.









Box of old pistons.









New piston.









These new ones don't have any STD.









Still waiting on freeze plugs and oil rail plugs. Then need to paint it. Then can start putting lower end back together.


----------



## ktfbgb

kimber750 said:


> Somewhere around there or about 3/4 of a Kimber.


Lol there is still a pretty good spread there.

P.s. I wouldn't mind a custom shop classic carry elite if your feeling generous lol.


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Somewhere around there or about 3/4 of a Kimber.


Orr aboot the same as 6 tickets to Metallica.....


----------



## BUFF

ktfbgb said:


> Lol there is still a pretty good spread there.
> 
> P.s. I wouldn't mind a custom shop classic carry elite if your feeling generous lol.


With what you're paying your help you should be able to buy one for every occasion....:laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## ktfbgb

BUFF said:


> With what you're paying your help you should be able to buy one for every occasion....:laugh::laugh::laugh:


True


----------



## kimber750

ktfbgb said:


> Lol there is still a pretty good spread there.
> 
> P.s. I wouldn't mind a custom shop classic carry elite if your feeling generous lol.


Sad part is original quote from machine shop was $425. The customs are nice but I have had my eye on a warrior for awhile now.



BUFF said:


> Orr aboot the same as 6 tickets to Metallica.....


Wifey wanted tickets to GNR $500 something each. I am not going but she is.


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Wifey wanted tickets to GNR $500 something each. I am not going but she is.


Hope for her sake the little peckerwood shows up and preforms instead of having a hissy fit and either blow it oof or storm oof a few minutes into the 1st set.


----------



## ktfbgb

kimber750 said:


> Sad part is original quote from machine shop was $425. The customs are nice but I have had my eye on a warrior for awhile now.
> 
> Wifey wanted tickets to GNR $500 something each. I am not going but she is.


The warrior is a pretty sweet piece too. Ok sorry, back to your build.


----------



## kimber750

Got block painted and all the rings gaped.













































Oil ring.









Luckily a buddy was able to find his ring expander pliers since I couldn't find mine.









Last cylinder to set ring gap, gaping rings is very boring. 









Hoping main studs and freeze plugs show up Monday so I can get crank back in.


----------



## BUFF

Snazzy......


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Snazzy......


Brother suggest I paint it same color as truck, told him to stop sniffing glue.


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Brother suggest I paint it same color as truck, told him to stop sniffing glue.


I've always painted motors Black, brothers can be morons...


----------



## Randall Ave

What and how are you setting your ring gaps?


----------



## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> What and how are you setting your ring gaps?


Not sure what you mean. I use a piston with oil ring still on it to square the ring its bore, feeler gauge to measure gap, ring cutter to set proper gap as needed.


----------



## Randall Ave

That's pretty much it. What are you setting your ring gaps at. Is your ring gap grinder the little one you turn buy hand.


----------



## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> That's pretty much it. What are you setting your ring gaps at. Is your ring gap grinder the little one you turn buy hand.


Not mine but yes with the two pins you put the ring against. Top 0.017, Second 0.066, oil 0.012. Basically measured them all then set them all to the largest measurements so they are all even.


----------



## kimber750

I have used a cutoff wheel clamped in a vise to set gap.  Use the top of the jaws as your flat surface and just slide the ring back and forth on the cutoff wheel. Works pretty good with smaller/thinner rings. But figured I would step it up a bit with this engine considering the amount of money I will have in it.


----------



## kimber750

Today progress. Blasted and painted some parts, whole lot of de-greasing and scrubbing.

RiffRaff oil jet vs OEM jet. 









Oil Jets installed with new bolts.








Block plugs back in. Still need to replace the one I stripped.









You would think Ford would have a little better tolerances.









Almost gonna be a shame to put this in my old truck.


----------



## BUFF

It's IH tolerances.... not Furd's...
I've in metal stamping shops and when the stamped part is removed from the die they're thrown into bin's to be moved down the line for the next operation. The pulled corner of your pan isn't something oot of the norm from what I've seen.


----------



## ktfbgb

Looking really nice!


----------



## Randall Ave

That's why you use the good IH silicone. And realy, there is NO quality in the parts you get now. Oil pans should never rot out. Nor should truck frames. But you find and old truck in a field from the 30s, the frames like new.


----------



## kimber750

I actually have the RTV that says 7.3 right on it.


----------



## kimber750

Freeze plugs came in today but 4 were missing. Two 1.5" one and two 0.5" ones. Ford says they can't get the smaller ones but will have the other ones in a couple days.


----------



## kimber750

Look what finally showed up today. Spent most the evening installing ball joints and exhaust on a GMC so hopefully I will have some time tomorrow to work on the 7.3.


----------



## BUFF

Bet you're feeling rather "Studly"........


----------



## kimber750

Always feel a bit studly but more excited about getting some of these parts laying around my shop back in the block.


----------



## kimber750

Tonight's progress.

Cam back in and torqued thrust plate. 
















Main bearings.
















Had to bring some muscle in to torque the main caps. 









Plan for tomorrow is to take the block back off the stand while it is still somewhat light and put rear cover and seal on. Then get the pistons in. If all goes well I may get enough done to put oil pan on.


----------



## BUFF

And I see you took the opportunity to showboat you're latest Snap-On toy....Thumbs Up
I did get them oot and they seem to be a good way to go until you have to get more fluidpayuppayuppayup

BTW is good to see you taking the time to show a kid how things are done, more people should take the time for stuff like that.


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> And I see you took the opportunity to showboat you're latest Snap-On toy....Thumbs Up
> I did get them oot and they seem to be a good way to go until you have to get more fluidpayuppayuppayup


The water based stuff isn't that bad if don't buy it from snap on. 5gal concentrate is about $100 and makes a total of 20gal which is all this holds. It has an oil skimmer and an enzyme in it so not supposed to replace fluid just add to it as it evaporates.


----------



## BUFF

I saw $350.00/5gal and freaked oot. I bought a used fully functional 35gal Safety clean unit for $75 with pretty fresh solvent from a buddy aboot 10yrs ago. The only sucking thing disposing the fluid and having to haul it to the same guy I bought the unit from.
I picked up a small ultra sonic cleaner a few years back and find my self using it more than the solvent tank unless I'm working on really dirty stuff.


----------



## kimber750

I have an ultra sonic I use on brass. But like I said if I don't like this thing should be easy to sell for more than what I paid. Will say it works excellent for cleaning your hands. No bad odor, which is great for me since the other stuff can give me a headache.


----------



## BUFF

Don't want to sound like a hipster but if there's a safer option and less hassle to deal with I'm for it even if there's a cost associated with it.


----------



## kimber750

I am sure it won't clean of the baked on diesel crude you need an air chisel to get off but then even the solvent cleaners can't get that crap off. I tried it on one of my valve covers and pleased with the results. I would like to get the booster stuff and see what difference it makes.


----------



## Aerospace Eng

Please report back on how it actually does cleaning parts. I haven't had good experience with water based cleaners, but the last time I tried was about 10 years ago.


----------



## kimber750

Pistons back in.

After using brake clean on cylinders I use ATF. Not sure why it gets so much more dirt out but it does. 
















OTC ring compressor. Worked pretty well but pretty much at the limit of this kit for ring size.









One side done.









Driver side.









Sticky crap.









Other side done.
















All torqued down. This is the first project I used the digital Snap On torque wrench on and must say I like it.


----------



## BUFF

Other than the diesel part this brings back memories, mostly good but a few bad too....:hammerhead:


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Other than the diesel part this brings back memories, mostly good but a few bad too....:hammerhead:


I am truly enjoying this project. Been at least 10 years since I have rebuilt an engine.


----------



## Randall Ave

I see no residual oil on the Pistons or cylinder walls, how did you lubricate the rings?


----------



## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> I see no residual oil on the Pistons or cylinder walls, how did you lubricate the rings?


Motor oil, then re-coat after installing piston.


----------



## kimber750

After I got back from dumpster diving spent a little timeout in the shop.

New lifters blowing bubbles. 









Cleaning lifter retainers.
















And the first half of parts washer test. Old piston, new pre-soaking, one minute scrub time and only using the parts washer brush. Here is one from water based washer. This weekend gonna stop at buddies shop to use his solvent based washer.


----------



## kimber750

And the results.

Cleaned with water based. 









Cleaned with solvent based.









Piston that was cleaned with solvent based after using water based.









Solvent based parts washer I used. New fluid 1/17.









Showing how clean the solvent is. This tray is full of solvent.









I have to admit I am really surprised by the results. I would of bet that the solvent would of out done the water with ease. Maybe it is the fact that the water one is heated? Maybe solvent requires a soak time? But I am impressed so far and I still have not added the booster to my parts washer yet.


----------



## BUFF

What's the booster for?


----------



## John_DeereGreen

That is pretty impressive. I figured the solvent would be significantly cleaner.


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> What's the booster for?


Supposed to up the cleaning power. Also I mixed the cleaning solution at 3:1 for light duty, can be mixed 2:1 for heavy cleaning.



John_DeereGreen said:


> That is pretty impressive. I figured the solvent would be significantly cleaner.


I surprised also but would bet if you soaked the pistons in the solvent for an hour or so it would make a big difference.


----------



## Aerospace Eng

Thanks for the comparison. I am impressed. Much different than my old experience. I'll definitely consider water based for my next parts washer.


----------



## kimber750

I have noticed one downfall of this parts washer, evaporation. I have been leaving heater on, set down low, to keep it from freezing. In a week I have lost about 2 gallons of fluid.


----------



## Randall Ave

When you want to clean it. What do you do with the old fluid?


----------



## BUFF

Randall Ave said:


> What do you do with the old fluid?


Takes it with when he visit's his sister in Philly.....


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> I have noticed one downfall of this parts washer, evaporation. I have been leaving heater on, set down low, to keep it from freezing. In a week I have lost about 2 gallons of fluid.


Evaporation would be a big issue oot my way since our humidity is pretty low.


----------



## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> When you want to clean it. What do you do with the old fluid?


Pump it into a container, clean parts washer, put fluid back in. Oil won't dissolve into the solution so in theory the fluid doesn't go bad. Washer has couple of filtering methods plus a oil skimmer to keep crude from building up in the washer. But if you did decided you wanted to get rid of the fluid you just let everything settle out and do whatever you want. No toxic chemicals in it.

From what I have read so far the water based washers work by lifting the crude off the parts not dissolving it.


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Evaporation would be a big issue oot my way since our humidity is pretty low.


I may have to try keeping the lid closed. :hammerhead:


----------



## kimber750

Lifters installed.


----------



## kimber750

Figure it is time for some before and after pics.

Passenger side with pistons. 
















Crank and Rods.
















Just fricken dirty.
















Bottom end.


----------



## BUFF

Sexy......


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Sexy......


 I agree, wifey doesn't see it.


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> I agree, wifey doesn't see it.


Tell her, now she knows what you think when she comes home with a pair of shoes or any other chick thing......


----------



## kimber750

BUFF said:


> Tell her, now she knows what you think when she comes home with a pair of shoes or any other chick thing......


Not opening that can of worms. She may come home more often with goodies but pretty sure I outspend here by miles. Don't need her picking up on that.


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Not opening that can of worms. She may come home more often with goodies but pretty sure I outspend here by miles. Don't need her picking up on that.


I give my with $5.00 a day allowance when she's performing, her oof days she gets $1.00....


----------



## kimber750

Oil check. 
New vs old. 























Try and look past the nasty water pump. Needed something to hold timing cover while RTV setup. Besides it is the wrong water pump for a truck anyway.









Oil pump gears. Normally would use motor oil but since it will be sitting for a bit yet used assembly lube.
















Got to clean up the balancer and get the sleeve off it. Couple of brackets need blasted and painted. And pick up a water pump.


----------



## BUFF

looks like you're gaining on it.....Thumbs Up


----------



## kimber750

Still waiting on two little plugs so I can install rear cover, rear main and oil pan.


----------



## Mark Oomkes

Very pretty........


----------



## kimber750

Rear cover and main seal. Recommend anyone from OSHA skip over this post.

I didn't want to flip it over and set it on the timing cover so I came up with this. Without the heads on there are no good lifting points on the top of the engine. Used the motor mount and tranny mount holes to pick it up. 
















With engine stand mount off I could get to the back of the block.









The two tiny plugs I have been waiting weeks for.









Rear cover and rear main seal. Didn't think to snap a pic of the tool to install the seal since I was rushing, was a bit unnerving having this thing hanging around.


----------



## kimber750

On a side note have any of you ever made a oil priming tool? I know they make something you fill with oil, attach to motor, add regulated air pressure and use it to prime an engine. In theory seems quite simple to build something to be able to do this.


----------



## BUFF

Never gotten that deep into a diesel...
How aboot using a inline electric fuel pump, through a regulator on it and plug it in. Something like this.


----------



## kimber750

Something more like this.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ummit-racing&gclid=CLOR2ZG2zNICFR5MDQodd08I-w


----------



## BUFF

kimber750 said:


> Something more like this.
> 
> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ummit-racing&gclid=CLOR2ZG2zNICFR5MDQodd08I-w


Yeah there's that too...... if ewe have Marci's money....


----------



## kimber750

I was thinking of build something. Some PVC, fittings, hose, regulator and should be able to make something for $20-30.


----------



## John_DeereGreen

kimber750 said:


> I was thinking of build something. Some PVC, fittings, hose, regulator and should be able to make something for $20-30.


PVC+petroleum of any kind+compressed air sounds like a bad idea to me.


----------



## BUFF

I've used those in line pumps for years to suck fuel oot of things for the off season and to drain tanks before you drop them. The last one I bought was $20.00 at AutoZone. At least with these you'd have a baseline pressure to work from.


----------



## Aerospace Eng

I agree that I wouldn't use PVC for compressed air. You could use a 1/4 beer keg.

An alternative suggestion that won't cost anything... It is based on how I was taught as an apprentice A&P mechanic and what aircraft piston engine manufacturers recommend.....

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Pre-Oiling Engine Prior to Initial Start.pdf

Fill the oil filter through the filter intake ports (small holes on the outside), then install on the engine. If the filter isn't vertical, spin quickly to avoid a huge mess.

As you don't have a spark plug to leave out....Don't put the injectors in, fill the crankcase with oil (I usually heat the oil to 120F or so by sticking the bottles in a tub of hot water). Then crank it over until the oil pressure starts to come up. Ideally, do this first with the turbo disconnected (including the oil lines), and then reconnect and crank just long enough for the oil pressure to move off the peg.

You oiled everything when you put it together, and the major rationale behind pre-oiling is to make sure you don't run any part of the engine dry when it is subjected to combustion pressures. However a pre-oiler will not make sure that your oil pump and suction tube are filled. The rationale behind disconnecting the turbo initially is that turbochargers have dynamic oil seals that rely on rotation to keep oil where it is supposed to be. If you use a pre-oiler, the turbo isn't rotating. Similarly, without the cams rotating, you won't be sure you have oil between the lobes and the lifters.

By taking a plug out (on S-I ingines) or leaving the injector out on diesels, the starter has an easier time and the engine cranks much more quickly, while at the same time making sure the mating parts such as crank and con rods are not forced together under pressure.


----------



## Jeep_thing

kimber750 said:


> On a side note have any of you ever made a oil priming tool? I know they make something you fill with oil, attach to motor, add regulated air pressure and use it to prime an engine. In theory seems quite simple to build something to be able to do this.


Yes, out of a small harbor freight air tank. Welded a bung with a large oil pan plug on top to fill. Welded another bung with a fitting for oil out, the bottom of the fitting had a piece of 3/8 brake line go down almost to the bottom of the tank to pick up the oil. Top of that fitting had a ball valve before the rubber hose (hydraulic hose) that fed the engine. Retained the air tank's original air chuck fitting and gauge to fill the tank with air.

Fill the tank with 5-6 quarts of oil and 100 lbs of air. Connect the oil hose to the oil pressure port on the engine. Open the ball valve, and slowly turn the engine over. It takes awhile for the oil to fill the filter and all of the passages and takes several revolutions. Many components do not receive constant oil pressure, only when moving passages line up such as crank main journals oil holes, cam journal oil holes (unless fully grooved as a chevy) and lifters. Of course when the engine is at operating rpm the pulsing pressure is not noticed and acts as constant pressure.


----------



## Jeep_thing

Aerospace Eng said:


> However a pre-oiler will not make sure that your oil pump and suction tube are filled.


It will absolutely fill the pump and all oil passages, obviously not the pickup tube which drains every time an engine is shut off anyway. It 100% replicates normal engine operation. When priming his engine with a tank as I described, upon engine installation and fire up he will have instentanious oil pressure throughout the engine.


----------



## John_DeereGreen

Aerospace Eng said:


> I agree that I wouldn't use PVC for compressed air. You could use a 1/4 beer keg.
> 
> An alternative suggestion that won't cost anything... It is based on how I was taught as an apprentice A&P mechanic and what aircraft piston engine manufacturers recommend.....
> 
> https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Pre-Oiling Engine Prior to Initial Start.pdf
> 
> Fill the oil filter through the filter intake ports (small holes on the outside), then install on the engine. If the filter isn't vertical, spin quickly to avoid a huge mess.
> 
> As you don't have a spark plug to leave out....Don't put the injectors in, fill the crankcase with oil (I usually heat the oil to 120F or so by sticking the bottles in a tub of hot water). Then crank it over until the oil pressure starts to come up. Ideally, do this first with the turbo disconnected (including the oil lines), and then reconnect and crank just long enough for the oil pressure to move off the peg.
> 
> You oiled everything when you put it together, and the major rationale behind pre-oiling is to make sure you don't run any part of the engine dry when it is subjected to combustion pressures. However a pre-oiler will not make sure that your oil pump and suction tube are filled. The rationale behind disconnecting the turbo initially is that turbochargers have dynamic oil seals that rely on rotation to keep oil where it is supposed to be. If you use a pre-oiler, the turbo isn't rotating. Similarly, without the cams rotating, you won't be sure you have oil between the lobes and the lifters.
> 
> By taking a plug out (on S-I ingines) or leaving the injector out on diesels, the starter has an easier time and the engine cranks much more quickly, while at the same time making sure the mating parts such as crank and con rods are not forced together under pressure.


The 7.3 and 6.0 Power Strokes both use high pressure oil passages in the heads to fire the injectors.

On the older tractors we have, everyone is in the habit of leaving the fuel shut off pulled out, cranking and as it cranks over, push the shutoff in. Not sure if it accomplishes anything, but we do it anyway.


----------



## kimber750

Wow, didn't think this would be such a big deal. First I agree PVC is not a best choice but for a 1 time use I think it would be fine. 

Like stated cranking a 7.3 without the injectors in would make one hell of a mess. If anything you removing glow plugs. 

I would of thought 100psi would be a bit on the high side. Frieghtshaker runs theirs at about 40psi. 

My reasoning for wanting to prelube the engine are I don't want crank anything dry. Yes everything was lubed during assembly but I am not moving at a blistering pace here. Most likely will be a couple more months until before engine is put in so it would be nice to prelube before start up. Also I will have a good bit of money in this thing and want to ever precaution to make sure I don't screw it up.


----------



## kimber750

Back to the rebuild. Time to start going over the heads.


----------



## kimber750

Will not be rebuilding heads. Valves, seats, guides all need replaced. So next I will order a pair of reman heads.

New balancer after destroying the old one. 









Got oil pan on. Looks pretty good to me.























Doesn't fit in the bag anymore.









Not even sure what to say about this.


----------



## Randall Ave

You have been using assembly lube. It should not drip off. If you want, leave the glow plugs out, oil filter off, turn it over till oil comes out of the oil filter head. Put a filled oil filter on it. Take the plug out of the high pressure pump resiviore, crank it over till oil comes out of that. Put that plug in. It's not going to start right away until the heads fill with oil in the high pressure galleries. You can unplug the CPS. So it won't fire. You probably have more lube in that than a motor that's been sitting for a few months.


----------



## kimber750

Randall Ave said:


> You have been using assembly lube. It should not drip off. If you want, leave the glow plugs out, oil filter off, turn it over till oil comes out of the oil filter head. Put a filled oil filter on it. Take the plug out of the high pressure pump resiviore, crank it over till oil comes out of that. Put that plug in. It's not going to start right away until the heads fill with oil in the high pressure galleries. You can unplug the CPS. So it won't fire. You probably have more lube in that than a motor that's been sitting for a few months.


Realize it may not be needed but nice to go the extra mile sometimes. And I like to tinker around, thought it would be neat to try and build something.


----------



## Randall Ave

Easy, get a power brake bleeder, fill with oil. Connect to the port for the oil sender, done.


----------



## Aerospace Eng

Jeep_thing said:


> It will absolutely fill the pump and all oil passages, obviously not the pickup tube which drains every time an engine is shut off anyway. It 100% replicates normal engine operation. When priming his engine with a tank as I described, upon engine installation and fire up he will have instentanious oil pressure throughout the engine.


No, it won't fill the pump. Oil pumps are positive displacement, so pre-oiling will get you back to the outlet of the oil pump (assuming there are no check valves in the system), but not to the inlet. Also, once you fill the pickup tube, it will stay full until you drain the pan or allow enough time for oil to seep through the positive displacement pump (months). Where's the air that would go into the pickup tube coming from? In order for the pickup tube to empty, everything above it (including all the galleys, etc) would have to empty, and the pump will have lost its prime. If your pump is full of oil, such as when you change the oil, it still has a good seal and it only takes seconds to suck the air through and get rid of it.

I'm not arguing against a pot-type pre-oiler, but there are other ways to accomplish the same thing.


----------



## Aerospace Eng

John_DeereGreen said:


> The 7.3 and 6.0 Power Strokes both use high pressure oil passages in the heads to fire the injectors.


Didn't know that about the use of oil to actuate the injectors. I have never worked on a common-rail engine and figured the injectors were directly actuated with electric signals. Learn something new every day. It sounds like they use a second pump to bump up the pressure. How high do they go?



John_DeereGreen said:


> On the older tractors we have, everyone is in the habit of leaving the fuel shut off pulled out, cranking and as it cranks over, push the shutoff in. Not sure if it accomplishes anything, but we do it anyway.


If they haven't sat for a while (weeks or more), probably doesn't matter. If they have, then it will probably help by making sure the oil gets around (particularly to the cylinder walls, con-rod bearings, and cam/valve interfaces) I'd wait until I saw the oil pressure twitch before pushing in the shut-off.


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## kimber750

Aerospace Eng said:


> Didn't know that about the use of oil to actuate the injectors. I have never worked on a common-rail engine and figured the injectors were directly actuated with electric signals. Learn something new every day. It sounds like they use a second pump to bump up the pressure. How high do they go?
> 
> .


High pressure oil pump for injectors goes up to 3000psi.


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## John_DeereGreen

Aerospace Eng said:


> Didn't know that about the use of oil to actuate the injectors. I have never worked on a common-rail engine and figured the injectors were directly actuated with electric signals. Learn something new every day. It sounds like they use a second pump to bump up the pressure. How high do they go?
> 
> If they haven't sat for a while (weeks or more), probably doesn't matter. If they have, then it will probably help by making sure the oil gets around (particularly to the cylinder walls, con-rod bearings, and cam/valve interfaces) I'd wait until I saw the oil pressure twitch before pushing in the shut-off.


Yes, there's a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump. Kimber and Randall know more about them than I do. They're hydraully powered by oil, and the actual firing is controlled electrically.

That's exactly what I do. Just something grandpa forced into my head so that's "just how it is!"


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## Aerospace Eng

Kimber, 

How do you like your water based parts washer now that you have lived with it for 10 months or so?


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## kimber750

Aerospace Eng said:


> Kimber,
> 
> How do you like your water based parts washer now that you have lived with it for 10 months or so?


Only two things I don't like about it. Evaporation and possibility of freezing. If you leave heater off evaporation is next to nothing but needs about 45 minutes to heat up. They do not work well without heat. I don't keep my garage heated all winter so I actually have it on a timer and I have to add a couple gallons of water ever month. Hasn't seemed to effect strength of solution yet.


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## Aerospace Eng

Thanks.


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