# Would you redo it or let it go?



## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Here is my dilemma. The rust is getting pretty bad on my 98, to the point that rubbing against snow piles while plowing is actually ripping body panels up.

The truck is a Cheyenne with 177,000 forward miles on it. It's a plow truck and also spreads salt sometimes. It's also my daily driver and my work truck (plowing and farm use). Mechanically it's pretty dang good, I don't want to change anything mechanically besides a 14 bolt sf rear axle with a nice posi and rear air bags.

My question. If this was your truck, would you just let it rust or would you swap a new cab, doors, and fenders on it. And replace the stock bed with a nice 7' steel flatbed+ cab guard. 
Something like this:








(I know that's a dually bed and a bit big, same look though)
Or this and add my own underbody boxes.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

The rest of the truck.
(I haven't had time to wash it due to plowing and cold temps this week so the salt normally isn't that bad on it)
*Note the pushed in area behind where it's rusted thru meaning its soft all the way to the rear of the cab


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Other spots on the truck.

Passengers door:








Passengers front fender:


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Drivers Side Cab:








*Hard to tell from this pic but the rocker is all wavy and soft









Along with the Cab my tailgate is shot and the bed is starting to get pretty rusty underneath and on the wheel well seams.

As some know I'd like to get a different truck as my daily driver and main plow truck. I however would be keeping this truck as a 2nd plow truck or a backup to my "soon to come" truck.
I like to keep nice equipment, having a good image helps get customers. I'd paint the replacement body panels and cab of my 98 the same color as whatever truck I get so they would match.
I think it would help gain customers if I pulled in a lot with a clean, well put together and reliable looking setup vs. some rusted out, falling apart pos that makes a lot of noise and you can see thru the bedside and the bottom of the cab is gone.

Thoughts?


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

I am not sure but some State require commercial license plate if you put dump bed or flat bed. Been there before and not worth it. They cost double fee.

What about aluminum flatbed they are lightweight and won't rot in salt.

That isn't serious rust you can stop it. If you are good with body you could cut that bad spot and weld new metal on it then make look fit then paint it.

Serious rust like this isn't worth to fix it. This was taken in summer.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

I wouldn't need special plates to run a flatbed or dump bed.

As far as the rust, the whole rocker panel on both sides of the cab is soft from front to back. I just posted pictures of the worst area. Pretty much from the top of the bed liner down is soft from what I can tell by pushing on it. 

The bottom of the passengers door is paper thin and the fender will have a hole in it before long. The bottom of the drivers door is just starting to get rusty and idk what shape the drivers fender is in. I think my hood is the only rust free panel.


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

Ok it time to stop that rust now. Don't think I will do them soon. That what my Dad been say that for 4 years. I will do soon. He never did.

Are you near to junkyard you could go get good non-rust doors and paint to match your truck. 



Before you do is bed mount to frame not rot? I will show you later it badly. When we hook 5 wheel camper we could see bed loosen on bad road.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Milwaukee;956284 said:


> Ok it time to stop that rust now. Don't think I will do them soon. That what my Dad been say that for 4 years. I will do soon. He never did.
> 
> Are you near to junkyard you could go get good non-rust doors and paint to match your truck.
> 
> Before you do is bed mount to frame not rot? I will show you later it badly. When we hook 5 wheel camper we could see bed loosen on bad road.


I might have 2 doors that I could get off a crashed tahoe that's at a friends shop. If those aren't clean, I would have to search the internet for clean southern doors, fenders, and a cab. I'd like to find a cab that has the 3rd door to get into the ext cab so I don't have to flip the seats forward to get something in and out of there.


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## Milwaukee (Dec 28, 2007)

Mark13;956285 said:


> I might have 2 doors that I could get off a crashed tahoe that's at a friends shop. If those aren't clean, I would have to search the internet for clean southern doors, fenders, and a cab. I'd like to find a cab that has the 3rd door to get into the ext cab so I don't have to flip the seats forward to get something in and out of there.


What wrong with #3 door? Stuck?

Maybe you need get vacation and come here. There are tons of chevys in junkyards some really junk and some are too good that not supposed to be in junkyard.


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## Mr.Markus (Jan 7, 2010)

Those are nice flat decks, See if you can find one in aluminum or you'll be sick of painting them to look good. The aluminum will last and can be put on your new truck down the road.


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## FisherVMan (Jan 5, 2010)

You need to bail on that truck ................. it would be throwin good money after bad, you cant win that one no matter how much you like the old truck


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## exmark1 (Nov 30, 2005)

With that many miles and such I wouldn't fix it! Unless you can do it CHEAP, buying a new cab and all new parts would be a stupid move. I would keep it as a backup truck let it rust and put all that money toward the new truck.

At least around here customers don't care/don't notice what your plowing with as long as it does the job. And if you have a newer truck you would be alot happier!


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## cretebaby (Aug 23, 2008)

Mark13;956270 said:


> Here is my dilemma. The rust is getting pretty bad on my 98, to the point that rubbing against snow piles while plowing is actually ripping body panels up.
> 
> The truck is a Cheyenne with 177,000 forward miles on it. It's a plow truck and also spreads salt sometimes. It's also my daily driver and my work truck (plowing and farm use). Mechanically it's pretty dang good, I don't want to change anything mechanically besides a 14 bolt sf rear axle with a nice posi and rear air bags.
> 
> ...


Mark, how much are one of the beds in the second pic?

The Bardford built ones are the only good looking ones in a 7' wide IMO.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Mark - you don't need a whole new cab, that's for sure. Just some new rockers, cab corners, maybe floor boards. Look and ask around till you can find a decent body guy that works for reasonable money. Get the cab restored first, then worry about doors and fenders. I wouldn't get rid of the truck, you know it too well now. It will make a perfect backup truck. As for the the flatbed, that's your choice. But you could find a decent shortbed much cheaper. Just bolt it on and you are done. Paint to match after you get your "new" truck. 

You're looking for a six lug 14 bolt SF? I saw one in our CL up here a couple weeks ago. Let me know if you want me to see if it's still available.


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## snowman5313 (Jun 19, 2009)

You should have used fluid film and that would have never been a problem.


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## scottL (Dec 7, 2002)

You remind me of myself when I was 18. I kept pouring good money after good money into a hot rod. Eventually I was in it for thousands and thousands of dollars and still it was never completed. When I finally got real and sold the car it was really cool but, sold for less than half and still was not done.

Your just pouring good money after a bad issue. It's not just the rust. You've got wiring that will go bad, frame rails I'm sure are weaker and thinner, trans, seals, etc, etc, etc.

For what you would spend you could buy a nice new work truck have payments around $300 maybe. No worries, a warranty and 10 or 20 years of service from it if you take care of it.

You had your time with it .... give up and save the money and pain.


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## buckwheat_la (Oct 11, 2009)

the rust damage on that isn't too bad, i agree with 2cor517, have you looked into a body shop yet? as far as panels go, new skins are going to be pretty cheap for that beast, because of the older chev body style, (if i remember correctly a entire side box panel is about $200 bucks) It you know anyone handy with a mig welder, they can install too, then a paint job and you are off and running.


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## Italiano67 (Feb 16, 2005)

Leave it go. Buy yourself a new 2500 and you wont regret it.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Milwaukee;956292 said:


> What wrong with #3 door? Stuck?
> 
> Maybe you need get vacation and come here. There are tons of chevys in junkyards some really junk and some are too good that not supposed to be in junkyard.


The 3rd door was an option starting in '96 I believe. My truck was built without having a 3rd door so if I want to use the ext cab area, I need to flip the seats forward and then slide them forwards to get people or large items back there. Not to big of a deal but if I could have a door, that would be much better.



exmark1;956403 said:


> With that many miles and such I wouldn't fix it! Unless you can do it CHEAP, buying a new cab and all new parts would be a stupid move. I would keep it as a backup truck let it rust and put all that money toward the new truck.
> 
> At least around here customers don't care/don't notice what your plowing with as long as it does the job. And if you have a newer truck you would be alot happier!


I think by saying "New parts" I threw everyone off a little. I should have said "clean, used parts" Probably from down south. 
As far as your point of saying that most customers don't really pay attention to what plows their lot and could care less what the plow truck looks like. I guess that's kinda the reason I started this thread. But then again at 2am, how many people notice the plow truck anyway besides being pissed off that it woke them up?



cretebaby;956405 said:


> Mark, how much are one of the beds in the second pic?
> 
> The Bardford built ones are the only good looking ones in a 7' wide IMO.


I'd imagine those beds are $2500+ I probably would not buy a bed from them, I just used their picture as an example of the style flatbed I would be talking about. My dad and I have the tools and the ability to built a flatbed also, that might be considerably cheaper.



2COR517;956411 said:


> Mark - you don't need a whole new cab, that's for sure. Just some new rockers, cab corners, maybe floor boards. Look and ask around till you can find a decent body guy that works for reasonable money. Get the cab restored first, then worry about doors and fenders. I wouldn't get rid of the truck, you know it too well now. It will make a perfect backup truck. As for the the flatbed, that's your choice. But you could find a decent shortbed much cheaper. Just bolt it on and you are done.  Paint to match after you get your "new" truck.
> 
> You're looking for a six lug 14 bolt SF? I saw one in our CL up here a couple weeks ago. Let me know if you want me to see if it's still available.


I'd like to try and keep all the work to something my dad, I, or a couple of my friends could help with for cost reasons. And none of my friends, nor my dad or I have a clue how to do proper body work and have it last and look nice. That's why I was thinking swapping cabs would be easier. We are all mechanically inclined with plenty of tools, a couple hoists, and a 2 post lift to use. 
As far as the bed, I could go either a flatbed or a stock short bed. It would depend what I got cheaper. Both have their benefits.
A 4x4 (4x2 is narrower)6 lug 14 bolt SF rear axle with 3.73 gears is what I'm looking for. I'd clean it up and put a Detroit tru trac in it though before putting it under the truck. Having no posi gets to be a pita sometimes. 


snowman5313;956444 said:


> You should have used fluid film and that would have never been a problem.


Haha, the truck was rusty before I got it. And being 16 and ******** I for some reason thought the bed liner would be a good way to stop the rust. Derr. If the truck was clean when I got it and I had known about FF at that time I'd probably be a little better off.


buckwheat_la;956455 said:


> the rust damage on that isn't too bad, i agree with 2cor517, have you looked into a body shop yet? as far as panels go, new skins are going to be pretty cheap for that beast, because of the older chev body style, (if i remember correctly a entire side box panel is about $200 bucks) It you know anyone handy with a mig welder, they can install too, then a paint job and you are off and running.


My dad and I can weld and he has a mig welder along with other metal working tools. But neither of us have done any body work before.


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## sno commander (Oct 16, 2007)

id let it go, keep saving up for a new truck


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## AbsoluteH&L (Jan 5, 2006)

That rust is nothing for around here. My 01 Jeep has holes in the floor. I Know you said you want it to look good, but if you are getting a new truck in the future I would skip on the whole cab and new work bed. Just fix the rust if it will be your back up. Doors (with out hardware), fenders, rockers and cab corners can all be had for fairly cheap and new. I would go used to keep the costs down for the box, you could get a nice work bed for about half of a new one. If you have a mig or know a friend with one you could get it done in a weekend with a buddy. Next weekend paint!

Just saw your post about your tools, welder and such. I would just fix it, you got the know how!


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

If your mechanically inclined and have the time, strip it to the frame and start from there using all new or rebuilt parts. I have had and have trucks that are simply money pits. I have also purchased new trucks. My next truck will be built from the bottom up, piece by piece, and I will have a better truck and it will cost less than a new one. But thats not to say I won't have tens of thousands of dollars in it.


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## AndyTblc (Dec 16, 2006)

I'd let it go and get your new truck, I'm in the same boat, I'm just kind of doctoring it till I get my new truck this year.


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

Hi

I would search Graigslist for a southern 4x2 model with a ton of miles and a good body, buy it cheap and have it shipped, you'll have all the parts you'll need. Whatever the color as long as its clean leave it, you'll save a few bucks. 

I have done this back in 1991 with Chevy S10, I had a solid running gear, 4.3L auto, but the body was junk, I bought a southern belle 4x2 for $800 paid $450 to have it shipped. It took three weekends stripping the 4x4 apart, 2nd weekend replacing lines, shocks, brakes, exhaust, ball joints, u-joints and everything that was easier to do without a body on the frame. The 3rd weekend I installed the southern, cab, nose and bed, along with some other good rust free parts. In the end I had nearly $2500 in the parts truck and additional replacement parts and a months worth of free time into the truck, was a real nice truck when it was all done. I ran the truck for three years with a 7' Fisher conventional on it, sold it to a freind of my brothers back in 1994, he just junked it less than a month ago. I really never fully benefitted from the longieviety of owning the truck, I did get $5800 for it when I sold it, so all on all I would say it was worth it.


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

This was part of the reason I bought my 06, the 97 is still going strong but having it as my daily driver and only work truck was taking its toll. After every storm I was putting money into it and it was getting ridiculous. I don't think the rust on my 97 is as bad as your but it has a bit. My 06 I bought basically new and I am doing everything I can to keep it that way. It is MUCH easier and cost effective to keep a new truck new than try to return an old truck to its former glory. Sure it will get dinged up but that can easily be taken care of! 

My stress level is also a whole lot lower this year having two trucks plowing, its great knowing I'm not completely toast if I have a truck go down. And plowing in the 06 dmax is amazing!

If I won the lottery I would absolutely love to rebuild the 97 from the ground up and basically have a brand new 97 truck but that certainly is not feasible without that lottery win!


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## Snow Bandit (Jan 11, 2010)

New Body Panels like the Rockers and Fenders are cheap for those trucks, much cheaper then buying a full cab. Price around and I think you will be surprised. From what i've learned, If it runs good, and gets the job done, don't sell it, always makes a great back up truck.


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## thesnowman269 (Nov 7, 2009)

Mark my truck is just as bad if not worse in some areas as your truck. Its my first truck that I have owned so I want to keep it. In the future I am totally going to rebuild the enitre truck. 5.4 engine swap, 4 inch lift, replace the cab and bed, redo wiring harness, new paint (silver ) new rims and everything. Everyone of my friends rags on my truck for being what it is but one day they will be jelous. There is a benefit for doing it, the peace of mind that I basically built my own truck. Also the way I look at it is its a great learning process if you are into that kind of stuff (as I am) and you basically have a new truck (when done right with out cutting corners) for way less then one that just came off the assembly line. My plan is to never get rid of the truck and keep it for a very long time. As of right now its just a dream that I want to make a reality. Its all a matter of personal preference for you, having a back up truck would sure help when things break, And your truck really doesnt look half bad. Some new rocker panels and some other patches and your good to go. Ive got holes in my floor and no rocker panels at all. I used to have running boards and had to cut them off because they were no longer being supported by the cab off the truck and if some one stepped on it, it almost broke off the truck. I forgot to mention earlier, the thing I will learn during the process of rebuilding my truck will help me when it comes time to fix my new truck ( yes I want a new truck too but I am going to keep the One I have now and get a bigger truck to plow with and use as a work truck) If I lived closer to you Id be over there helping you redo your truck, I love working on them xysport

P.S then again I am young and stupid so I want to spend every cent I make


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## WilliamOak (Feb 11, 2008)

Mark if you're gonna be running the truck when you go on your own for plowing then I would absolutely go at it to get it lookin as good as you can get it. IMO those who say image doesnt matter have beat to sh*t pos trucks. Sure your work comes 1st 100% but its also the way you go about getting it accomplished. I would wait to go at it until, like you said, you have the newer truck and that way you can paint the chevy to match. You have experienced 1st hand with DAB how much a matching fleet does for a company. Right now though the rust isnt noticable unless your looking for it, I didnt even think it was this rusty after only seeing it what, 2 weeks ago?


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Just want to agree with what will said about matching trucks...in the spring I want to have my 97 shot black after a little bit of rust repair just to match my 06...matching trucks looks good and professional...and no one else around here runs black (for a reason I know but it does look real sharp!)


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

Here is another option.

Sell this truck after removing all my plow stuff from it.
Buy a newer 3/4-1ton diesel and put a _different_ plow on that.
If I decide having a 2nd truck is beneficial and would be a wise investment. Buy a clean southern 96-00 Chevy/GMC K2500/3500srw. Then put all my Unimount stuff on it off my current 98.

Then I still have 2 trucks. I also then have 2 3/4ton+ trucks, both rust free so I can keep them that way.

The downside is I have 2 "new" trucks that I know very little about besides what carfax, a otc genisys scanner, and my own 2 eye's can tell me about it.

I think the value of my current 98 plus whatever it would cost to clean it up, I could get a clean 96-00 Chevy/GMC K2500/3500srw for about the same amount of money.


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## WilliamOak (Feb 11, 2008)

If you feel confident in that scenario then I really don't see any down side to it besides possibly ending up with a lemon. You would definitely be in a better situation when everything is said and done, also the fact that you wouldn't have hardly anything out of pocket to set up the second truck would be very appealing at least to me lol


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## REAPER (Nov 23, 2004)

Rust is a cancer that is terminal and a never ending battle. I have had 6 GM/GMC pick-up's with the same problem you have. You may say "oh just a little work" now. But then next year it is more and then more and then the truck is worth next to nothing in re-sale because you waited to long. 

I say fix it up as much as you can to make it look clean to sell. By a newer 3/4-1 ton like you said but install the same type of mount on it you have now. Having interchangeable blades on your trucks is awesome in case of break down on one or the other when you get the second truck down the road.

For sure tho sell the one you have now while you can and before you start replacing brake lines back to the cylinders or gas tank/cross member brackets. If it feels that soft along the sides get it cleaned up and park it near Woodstock High with a for sale sign on it before it is to late and you kick yourself later.


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## Lugnut (Feb 25, 2006)

I had a 00 sonoma, it started rusting similar to yours, and within 6 months i was having electrical issues every couple months. I had to put about $2000 into it within 4 or 5 months. I cant even remember everything that was going wrong on it...wires to sensors shorting out, relays going, brake lines rusting through... I sold it, got what I could out of it while it still had decent value, and got a year old silverado to replace it. Best decision i could have made.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

If everything else is working, in the spring time you can learn some basic body work welding. Doing it yourself, rockers, cab corners, bed sides, and some decent fenders and doors.. you could have it solid again for well under a grand. Even a Maaco paintjob will look good enough for a work truck. 

Remember, when it comes to things like body work, the difference between an ameteur and a pro is the amount of time it takes. Even an first time ameteur can do a very presentable job if he takes his time! And its a great skill to learn from anyways.

Thats not to say don't buy a new truck, but think long and hard before ditching this one, because the peanuts you'll get for it won't go far, and a reliable backup truck is worth far far more.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

REAPER;957094 said:


> B8y a newer 3/4-1 ton like you said but install the same type of mount on it you have now. Having interchangeable blades on your trucks is awesome in case of break down on one or the other when you get the second truck down the road.
> 
> get it cleaned up and park it near Woodstock High with a for sale sign on it before it is to late and you kick yourself later.


I've thought about the whole interchangeable blade thing and it's a very good idea. My only problem is that on my next truck I would like to run a Boss V.

I'm liking the idea about letting all the high school kids see it. I don't think it would last to long if I put it forsale where it was easy for them to notice.


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## mcwlandscaping (Sep 8, 2005)

Then in that case sell your plow stuff with the truck and when you do get that second truck find compatible boss equipment that will compliment the boss V that you will already have...besides, if you only have one truck and it has a boss V on it, that western is doing nothing but taking up space and/wearing away in the elements. 

I do like your plan of selling the current one, buying newer and then finding a clean older truck. It may cost more initially but you will have two fantastic setups!


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

mcwlandscaping;957909 said:


> Then in that case sell your plow stuff with the truck and when you do get that second truck find compatible boss equipment that will compliment the boss V that you will already have...besides, if you only have one truck and it has a boss V on it, that western is doing nothing but taking up space and/wearing away in the elements.
> 
> I do like your plan of selling the current one, buying newer and then finding a clean older truck. It may cost more initially but you will have two fantastic setups!


I'll probably go that route with selling it and then just buying 2 different trucks when the time comes. If this truck was a 3/4 or 1ton I'd have a harder time getting rid of it but since it's a 1/2ton that's help up great for being largely over worked I think it's time to see it go. Once winter is over all I have to do is strip all my stuff off it, clean it up real nice, and find a high school kid to pay me to much for it.


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## 87chevy (Mar 11, 2009)

I'll buy it!!


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## Alpha Property (Jul 25, 2008)

Mark13;957022 said:


> Here is another option.
> 
> Sell this truck after removing all my plow stuff from it.
> Buy a newer 3/4-1ton diesel and put a _different_ plow on that.
> ...


Unfortunatly i'm in the same boat rite now with my 2000 1500 z71, i think that this is the better idea, and prob the route i'm going to take over the summer aswell


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## Clint S (Feb 12, 2008)

I never did a lick of bodywork in my life and I did a decent job on my car. I replaced several panels on it. and painted it in my garage. It is far from perfect and not a show car by any means, but is a good 10 footer 









I could have done a much better job if I would have spent more time on it. As far a paint Maco could probably do a decent job for about the money than I spent on the paint. Go for it if you want.


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## creativedesigns (Sep 24, 2007)

Regardless of what u decide to do, it must pass commercial safely in order to plow snow. And rust would be a concern.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

There is no commercial safety around here unless I change to a higher class lisc. plate for over 8,000lb then it's a semi annual inspection.


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