# Plow mount fabrication for Single axle dump trucks???



## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

We are setting up a couple old international s1954's this year to do residential streets for the city. 
We have built a square frame out of 4" angle iron 3/8" thick. (3 ft tall and 2 1/2 wide) welded to the front of the truck frame (that we added 18" to) from the bottom of that frame we went back to the frame alongside the motor (inside the leaf springs). using 3" by 3/4" flat bar.

Heavy enough??????

Im hoping to use electric over hyd pumps for this. I found some new fisher takeoffs. max pressure 2750psi. but the lines i would run to the plow are only 1/4"??? the plow weighs about 1400lbs. its lifted thru a 2" bore cylinder with 10 inches of travel.

Does this sound like it will work?


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## pohouse (Jan 26, 2009)

Hard to say without some pics. Can you post some? What type of plow? Does the truck have central hydr? I plow for the city, here in Lincoln and one thing I will tell you is that street plows and mounts take a beating! Make sure you plumb in a crossover or relief valve to protect your angling cylinders and cylinder mounts. Look forward to the pics.


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

Honestly? Probably not. I've mounted many Gledhill HFF hitches in my life time and I've seen their 5/8" side plates with 1/2" overlay strengthening ribs bend on certain city trucks. I'll see if I still have a HFF hitch for one of those in stock and get you pics.


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## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

Thanks for the posts guys, Lon i have 2 f800's with those gledhill hitches and man are they TOUGH!!! 5/8 plate on the outsides of the truck frame. They came out of cleveland and should work fine. We swapped out the 10 (manual) roots/gledhill plows with frink/monroe 11 footers (hyd angle). I guess my take on it is... If someone can bend or break one of those hitches, they probably need to get out of the truck indefinately.

Pohouse, I will get some pics as soon as i can. These trucks are just old beat up internationals that will die a quick death in a snowstorm plowing snow.... hopefully get a year or two out of them. The plows have a "cushion valve" on the angle cylinders. And now for the best part... Monarch electric over hydraulic pumps from surplus supply! hahaaha, we will see how it works....


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

due the electrical system a favor and go to a minimum of a 3" x 10" cylinder. Also X brace your 3/4" bars together.


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## equip guy (Nov 25, 2010)

on my international S1800, I made 2 3x3x 3/8 square tube struts that attatched from the back of the lower push beam and went to the front axle with plates on the end that slid around the axle beam for added support. It made it more in line for support than fabbing angle struts to the bottom frame. It was mainly bolted to the front bumper at the frame rails. Been on for 12 years and not one problem, and I had an air piston lift. Just an idea.


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## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

equip guy;1126381 said:


> on my international S1800, I made 2 3x3x 3/8 square tube struts that attatched from the back of the lower push beam and went to the front axle with plates on the end that slid around the axle beam for added support. It made it more in line for support than fabbing angle struts to the bottom frame. It was mainly bolted to the front bumper at the frame rails. Been on for 12 years and not one problem, and I had an air piston lift. Just an idea.


I considered the front axle support? It seems like a good setup, I just couldnt get around the axle travel issue. Did u fab it rigid or hinge it at the bottom of the push frame? Or maybe there isnt enough axle travel to worry about. Some I have seen were rigid from front axle to push frame and pinned on to the bumper mount(rotates for axle travel). I still have 2 more to build so maybe i will go this route.... do you have any pic's of your setup?


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## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

equip guy;1126381 said:


> on my international S1800, I made 2 3x3x 3/8 square tube struts that attatched from the back of the lower push beam and went to the front axle with plates on the end that slid around the axle beam for added support. It made it more in line for support than fabbing angle struts to the bottom frame. It was mainly bolted to the front bumper at the frame rails. Been on for 12 years and not one problem, and I had an air piston lift. Just an idea.


Tell me a little about the air piston? thats sounds pretty good, the only experience i have with them is tailgate latches on dump truck boxes. Never had any problems with those... Having air brakes on 2 of these trucks that need mounts would make pretty good sense if it was reliable.


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## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

LON;1125451 said:


> due the electrical system a favor and go to a minimum of a 3" x 10" cylinder. Also X brace your 3/4" bars together.


Lon, that x brace is a good idea, any force would probably bow those bars in or out.... how would the bigger bore cylinder help the elec? less effort to lift?


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

Actioninc;1127621 said:


> Lon, that x brace is a good idea, any force would probably bow those bars in or out.... how would the bigger bore cylinder help the elec? less effort to lift?


It's all about volume vs pressure. Go to a 4x10 and you'll hear even less strain on the motor. 
As for hooking to the axle look here - http://www.gledhillonline.com/PDFS/hitches.pdf


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## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

here are some pics


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## Actioninc (Oct 16, 2009)

here is one more plow mount pic. and another pic of what seems to be a meyer/diamond plow setup that went back to the axle. (blade is 9ft that will be put on a 88 chevy one ton)


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