# CV Joint Clicking



## long0 (Jul 11, 2002)

Yesterday the drivers side CV started clicking on my '01 2500. I called the dealer and they can't get the truck in until the middle of next week. Is there any possibility of this causing me serious problems, or leaving me stranded. The weather freaks are saying we are slated to get another foot of snow between today and monday, so more than likely, I will have to keep plowing.

Thanks,
Andy


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Hopefully it will hold up.They will usually go for awhile before they let go.You will really start to hear it when it gets that bad.If you have to plow with it,go easy,and stay off the gas as much as possible when turning hard.


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## Arc Burn (Oct 21, 2002)

I ran my 95' chevy for a month with a cv joint that was past clicking!it was constatly whining ,I'm not bragging,just letting you know you should be OK,this was also in the winter and i had to plow numerous times and had no choice,as far as hurting anything,the damage is done,the CV joint is shot as far as your concerned,you will be fine for a couple days.


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## long0 (Jul 11, 2002)

Thanks guys. I have run other trucks with bad CV's, but never plowed with one. Just have to hope it does not generade itself between now and then.

Andy


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*clicking*

I was plowing with a clicking ft right on my 97 Ram 2500 It lasted a while I just changed it last weekend Its a $100.00 part at the dealer and isnt to bad to change


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## long0 (Jul 11, 2002)

I thought the 97 Ram had a coil spring setup with a solid front axle???


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

> _Originally posted by long0 _
> *I thought the 97 Ram had a coil spring setup with a solid front axle??? *


It does have a solid axle with coils.Maybe he's talking about a u-joint or something else ?


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## Chuck Smith (Dec 30, 1999)

B White must be talking about another part. If U Joints went for $100 each, I'd be opening up a distributorship ASAP! LOL

Also, while a U joint _usually_ isn't that bad to change, some are a REAL pain to do. Some of you might have done one on a 69 - 91 Dodge front axle.... now those were the definition of a REAL pain.

A little off topic, but a few years back I snapped the left front axle on my 80 GMC. I needed both halves, as I snapped the ears off when the U joint blew.

I called around and found one place that swore they have the axle shafts in stock, but they were about to close for the night. I raced over there, only to find out it was a "half shaft" with CV joint, for an 88 & up GM. I thanked them, but told them it would not work for me. They insisted it was the correct part, I explained there was no way it was correct. They obviously had no clue, but the rebuilt half shaft with new CV was $120. Seemed like a good deal to me.....

~Chuck


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

Yes I did replace the UJOINT !! and yes it was a $100 piece from the local Dodge dealer . I thoght it was expensive but I cant believe it would be any different price from any other dealer . Ujoints also click when they go bad ( solid axles or not ) I dont understand the confusion here ?????


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## Alan (Mar 2, 2000)

> _Originally posted by BWhite _
> *Yes I did replace the UJOINT !! and yes it was a $100 piece from the local Dodge dealer . I thoght it was expensive but I cant believe it would be any different price from any other dealer . Ujoints also click when they go bad ( solid axles or not ) I dont understand the confusion here ????? *


The "confusion" is because you posted about replacing a UNIVERSAL joint when the thread was about a noise in a CONSTANT VELOCITY joint. And as someone else pointed out, Dodge does not use CV joints in their front axles.


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*oh well*

I replaced my clicking u joint . and it stopped clicking


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## Chuck Smith (Dec 30, 1999)

> _Originally posted by BWhite _
> *Yes I did replace the UJOINT !! and yes it was a $100 piece from the local Dodge dealer . I thoght it was expensive but I cant believe it would be any different price from any other dealer . Ujoints also click when they go bad ( solid axles or not ) I dont understand the confusion here ????? *


\

I was confused because you should be able to get ANY universal joint, for $20 - $30 from any Napa, Car Quest, or Auto Zone, or any local auto parts store. IMO $100 is highway robbery. You can even buy heavy duty U joints with a lifetime guarantee from Summit Racing for about $50.

In fact, I just went to the Auto Zone web site, and here is what they offer....

BRUTE_FORCE U-JOINT for a 1997 DODGE TRUCK RAM 2500 3/4 TON 4WD

Unit Price: $13.99 
Core Value*: $0.00 
Part No.: 1-0297BF 
Weight: 1.45 lbs. 
Warranty: 1 YR 
Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days 
Store: Normally Stocked 
Note:

HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE

-------------------------------

BIG difference between $13.99 and $100.00.....

That is what confused me. No offense intended. 

~Chuck


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## plowking35 (Dec 21, 1999)

Chuck I thought of you when my 84 K-20 lost the right axel shaft during this last weeks storm.Seems the truck was making noise for all season, the driver just never told me. When the u joint went it took both sides of the flanges. I fornatley had spare axels from another front end. We kept plowing with the 84 in 2 wd with chains and weighin flat lots. I R&R the shafts before installing them, the right side axel slid out of the housing somewhat, and ruined the side gear in the carrier, so i had to replace that as well/ Infact the axel shaft pretty much welded itsself to the side gear. I had to use a mongo puller to get them apart, and what a racket and pop it made when it did come apart.
Those u joints were 15.00 a side, and 5.00 for a pair of seals.
Must be something about blizzards, plowsite, and chevy trucks for lunching axel shafts.
Dino


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

No doubt I got ripped . I am going to call another dealer and see if the price is the same . maybe some overcharging going on here ?


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## John DiMartino (Jan 22, 2000)

I dont know about the Dodge gassers,but those of us with modified Cummins diesels making over 1000 ft lbs of torque at the wheels,use the Stock Dodge u joints, they are $$,but they are the best.They are the only joints that hold up to the sled pulling trucks,that make over 600hp/1400ft lbs. I am at the point where i wont use any other joint. I just needed to replace the rear joint on the rear shaft.It didnt make any noise,but it started to vibrate. For my GMC's ior a stock Dodge,id say go with the aftermarkets though. I plan on sled pulling and drag racing a lot,Ill need all the help i can get to keep my driveline together. With the CV joint,if it clicks thats not to bad,it when the truck starts to rock,and the wheel turns out of you hands,then the truck acts like it has a tire with an egg shape to it,that is very bad.I have seen them almost freeze solid,and snap the extension housings clean off the inboard CV joint mount.As long as it just clicks,run it,and use 4wd only when you have to,if you can keep it in 2wd,it will last longer.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

The Dodge's,and most OEM's all use Spicer sealed u-joints.They are one of the best joints around.Don't get them from the dealer.Any good driveline shop,and some jobbers will have Spicer.

I used to recommend greaseable joints,but they don't seem to have as good a seal and end up only lasting a few years.Most sealed joints,with synthetic grease,will go double that,if installed properly.

I just blew one of the double cardan joints today.Only one cup was dry,and the bearings were gone.Not bad for 350 K and almost 7 years old.Lots of hard off-roading and plowing too.These were OEM (Spicer) sealed joints.That's what I put back in.


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## BWhite (Sep 30, 2002)

*wyldman*

How much were your spicer OEM U- Joints ? Bill


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## Fine Lines Lawn (Mar 14, 2001)

I had to replace a left CV joint last week on a 98 2500. It took my dealer about an hour for the work, and the chage was $182.00, installed.


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## paul soccodato (Nov 9, 2002)

u-joints are usually pretty cheap. when i changed the front axle joints in my 84-k20, the joints were about $18 each.

now, the front axle joint's in my 89 f-350 were the most expensive joints i ever bought, at around $60 each. 
everything for this truck (7.3 diesel) is expensive, the fan clutch was $150, list price was $230 or so.

last week i changed the joints in my jeep's rear driveshaft again, about $8 each. this is the second pair of joints in two months, so we'll see what happens. truck burns up the joint at the rear diff. never had any problems with these joints, i've been using them for years.

all the u-joints come from the same parts store, and are the best joint they carry, precision u-joints, made by federal mogul.


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## Arc Burn (Oct 21, 2002)

> _Originally posted by Fine Lines Lawn _
> *I had to replace a left CV joint last week on a 98 2500. It took my dealer about an hour for the work, and the chage was $182.00, installed. *


I have bought a couple CV joints and installed them and $182.00 is well worth it!


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

> _Originally posted by paul soccodato _
> *last week i changed the joints in my jeep's rear driveshaft again, about $8 each. this is the second pair of joints in two months, so we'll see what happens. truck burns up the joint at the rear diff. never had any problems with these joints, i've been using them for years.
> 
> all the u-joints come from the same parts store, and are the best joint they carry, precision u-joints, made by federal mogul. *


I have used a lot of Precision u-joints (it's what my supplier has readily available and cheap),and most only seem to last a year or two.I just don't think the quality is there.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

BWhite - the Spicer joints were $61.00 list,$47.00 my cost each.The cheaper precision joints were $28.00 list,$21.08 my cost.These are all CDN prices.


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## long0 (Jul 11, 2002)

The truck will end up in the shop sooner than expected. Tow truck should pick it up in a coule hours. Plowing on Sat. night, I lost the power steering pump. Not only do you loose power steering when the pump goes, you also loose your brakes. Either that, or I have more problems that I don't know about. 

As far as CV's go, I have always just replaced the whole assembly. No fooling with the boots and grease, pull the shaft out, and slap in the new one. I am assuming that is what the dealer did for Fine Lines???

Andy


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## paul soccodato (Nov 9, 2002)

wyldman, 

you may be right, but i never had a u-joint problem before this one with the wrangler. 

i put precision joints in my f-350, 5 years ago, and have'nt had any trouble yet. and that truck takes a beating all year long.

i changed all the universal's in my 84 k20 using precision's, also with no trouble, and besides plowing, that truck was more of a submarine off road than a truck.

i'm a maniac when it comes to pm, i grease all the joints on a regular basis, and i use synthetic grease from castrol.

the only good thing is it takes about 10 minutes to change the joints and r & r the shaft on the jeep. when i changed them last week the cups that go into the rear yoke (flange), were the one's showing problems. one of the cups had no needle bearings, and a cracked the cup, the other cup still had a little grease in it, the rest of the cups, and trunion's were all good.

i also noticed that the cups were rotating in the yoke. i cleaned it up and it looks good, and the cups fit tightly. so i replaced the straps that hold the shaft in.

to be perfectly honest, i drive the wrangler like a lunatic while plowing, so it's probably operator error. 

but hey, (drive it like you stole it) right.


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## wyldman (Jan 18, 2001)

Most CV shafts are available remanufactured as a complete unit,where they rebuild the CV joints,and install new boots.They are just as good as a new assy,and way cheaper than replacing just a CV joint or the whole shaft with new.Just bolt on in and go.

Paul - if you keep after the joints with a grease gun,especially with synthetic grease,they will last a lot longer.The Precision joints are OK,and will work fine in most applications.I just prefer the Spicer stuff if possible.Most people forget to grease them often enough,which leads to joint failure.On some vehicles it's also very difficult to get at some of the joints to grease them,so the sealed units are the way to go in my opinion.


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## JohnnyU (Nov 21, 2002)

I replaced my c/v shafts this fall, they were about $80 with a $100 core charge (maybe it was the other way around). 

At any rate, I think that was a very good price, it took me about 2.5 hrs to do both sides. The splined shafts had some burrs on then that I had to file, so it took longer than expected. I might try to find someone to do it for $180/side, that might be good money spent, 

I hope that the power steering/brake problem is nothing too serious. I know on the old 350 deisels the power steering fluid was used in the brake booster, do they still use that system?

-John


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## long0 (Jul 11, 2002)

John,
I was able to look at my truck closer today in the daylight. I think the shaft broke off of the pulley. The power steering lines run up to the booster, so I actually do have brakes, just no power brakes. It's all under warranty, so I am just going to let the tow it.


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## Fine Lines Lawn (Mar 14, 2001)

Yes, that was the course I took. The entire unit was replaced.


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