# pondering a dodge MPG question



## james.j.smith (Sep 20, 2010)

I'm looking to upgrade to a crew cab and have had dodge Dakota in the past. I can't afford a new truck so it will be a 01 or newer truck. I've been comparing gas and diesel trucks and it seems that some people are getting better gas mileage in there diesels. I was wondering what type of gas mileage people are getting in the 1/2 ton and 3/4 tone trucks? I know the gearing plays a big impact but also what type of mods have you done to improve your gas mileage?

right now I'm plowing with a 91 f250 and tow a 19 foo welcraft with my wife's envoy. the f20 is a regular cab so the family doesn't fit. So I really have no need for the 3/4 ton since alot of people plow with there 1/2 tons and a 1/2 ton will handle the boat. If i can get better gas mileage with a 3/4 ton diesel I would prefer the 3/4 ton.

thanks in advance for your imput


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## edgeair (Sep 26, 2010)

james.j.smith;1443291 said:


> I'm looking to upgrade to a crew cab and have had dodge Dakota in the past. I can't afford a new truck so it will be a 01 or newer truck. I've been comparing gas and diesel trucks and it seems that some people are getting better gas mileage in there diesels. I was wondering what type of gas mileage people are getting in the 1/2 ton and 3/4 tone trucks? I know the gearing plays a big impact but also what type of mods have you done to improve your gas mileage?
> 
> right now I'm plowing with a 91 f250 and tow a 19 foo welcraft with my wife's envoy. the f20 is a regular cab so the family doesn't fit. So I really have no need for the 3/4 ton since alot of people plow with there 1/2 tons and a 1/2 ton will handle the boat. If i can get better gas mileage with a 3/4 ton diesel I would prefer the 3/4 ton.
> 
> thanks in advance for your imput


My experience has always been that you want to size your truck to what you need and then one step heavier. A 3/4 ton would work well for you, 1/2 tons are a bit light for much significant plowing or trailering. The diesel is another step only you can decide. If you work your truck and do a lot of trailering, then it will likely pay you to get the diesel. On the other hand if you are empty most of the time, then a gasser would work ok.


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## mike6256 (Dec 15, 2007)

I agree with what Edgeair said above.
I get 18-16mpg empty around town.
10-12mpg pulling 13,000lb fifth wheel. I do have 4:10 rear so highway speeds hurt my MPG.
and around 12mpg plowing. Don't forget to account for price per gallon difference in diesel vs gas. Pretty much they got ya.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

To justify the extra cost of the diesel to buy and maintain you need to fit into this criteria. 

-Drive 25 000miles a year or more
-pull a trailer or work the truck more than 30% of the time
-run the truck for more than 40min intervals

If you are 2of3 or greater, then diesel would be a wise choise. If not stick to the 2500 gassers. Don't buy one thinking you are going to save $ out of the gate. There are many other factors involed. The simplest one is the extra $5000-10000 intial purchase price of the diesel. 

Many people have bought diesel trucks thinking they need them. To find out in time there are no savings in the long run.....


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## edgeair (Sep 26, 2010)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443309 said:


> To justify the extra cost of the diesel to buy and maintain you need to fit into this criteria.
> 
> -Drive 25 000miles a year or more
> -pull a trailer or work the truck more than 30% of the time
> ...


Yes very true when you are looking at a new truck. The OP was talking about an early 2000's truck, so the difference in gas vs. diesel is less of an issue. The top 2 of your points are valid, more number 2. But I disagree with the 40 min intervals thing. Very negligible difference if any, especially on the newer diesels.

I agree that lots of people get diesels thinking they need them, but very few do. Its mostly whether you are working a truck or not. Pulling a trailer is a big difference on fuel burn in a gas vs. a diesel. It doesn't take long to make up your purchase price difference. Then there is resale. A diesel will always be worth more, although that difference gets less as the truck gets older.

One point I would make to the OP is that if you are looking at the early 2000's in Dodge, watch out for those bad automatics. 2004 and up would be a safer bet for that issue.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

How long does it take a diesel truck to get to normal operating temperatures during the winter?? Keep in mind I don't keep mine pluged in and normally takes 20min or so to get fully warmed up. During this time the diesels are not doing very well in the fuel milage catagory so the gasser is the better choice. Hence the 40 min rule.


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## MrPLow2011 (Jan 14, 2011)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443309 said:


> To justify the extra cost of the diesel to buy and maintain you need to fit into this criteria.
> 
> -Drive 25 000miles a year or more
> -pull a trailer or work the truck more than 30% of the time
> ...


I have heard this arguement many time. And everytime I point out the same thing, RESALE VALUE!!!! If he buys a decent 2001 CTD for say 10k He can run it for 4 years and still sell it for 7k 3-4 years down the road. With close to 200k on it. No one is going to buy V8 Magnum with 200k on it for more than 3k. But he would have paid 8k to buy that truck. If he can even find a sucker to buy it. CTD resale is awesome. But do your Home work on the 53 block before you buy one.



DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443336 said:


> How long does it take a diesel truck to get to normal operating temperatures during the winter?? Keep in mind I don't keep mine pluged in and normally takes 20min or so to get fully warmed up. During this time the diesels are not doing very well in the fuel milage catagory so the gasser is the better choice. Hence the 40 min rule.


Um about 2 miles and mine is at 190 and pumping heat. Ofcourse I let it warm for a min. So in about 4 not 40 minutes they are up to snuff. And if your next arguement is leaving loaded. Dodges have a high idle feature and truck is warm in under 10 mins, We are not talking about some OLD DT466 that never warms. Its a computer controlled pick up


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## edgeair (Sep 26, 2010)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443336 said:


> How long does it take a diesel truck to get to normal operating temperatures during the winter?? Keep in mind I don't keep mine pluged in and normally takes 20min or so to get fully warmed up. During this time the diesels are not doing very well in the fuel milage catagory so the gasser is the better choice. Hence the 40 min rule.


My (unplugged) 04.5 gets to temp after about 5 minutes on the road when its -10C or above. A gas doesn't do much better. No vehicle is good in the winter. My 04.5 burns about 1/2 what my employees Dodge Dakota V6 does in the winter. Figure that one out.....

Just got an '11 diesel. It warms up quicker than the 04.5.

You might want to look at winter fronts if yours warms up that slow. I've never seen my trucks take 10 minutes to warm up even when it was -30C in Alberta when I had them there.

Now idling is a different story. If you start a diesel and let it idle, yes it does take forever. But if you treat them like you are supposed to by starting them, let them warm up for 30 seconds to 5 minutes depending on how cold it is then drive off and give it a bit of a load, it doesn't take long to warm up.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443336 said:


> How long does it take a diesel truck to get to normal operating temperatures during the winter?? Keep in mind I don't keep mine pluged in and normally takes 20min or so to get fully warmed up. During this time the diesels are not doing very well in the fuel milage catagory so the gasser is the better choice. Hence the 40 min rule.


Wow, every one is way to literal. Sure you get heat in 3-5 min and the temp on the guage is rocken 190 deg. Whats the temp of the anitfreeze in the rad??? Has the thermostat opened up yet??? What about the diffs and trans?? Yep, normal operating temps too !!!

Still stand behind the 40 min rule. If you own a diesel truck and only drive 30min each way to work are you saving $$$$ ???? Same truck running for 4 hours steady...... This was my point.


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## goel (Nov 23, 2010)

I agree with Daff. Big difference between heat rolling out the vents and Operating Temperature. Diesels are meant to RUN to maximize efficiency.


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## edgeair (Sep 26, 2010)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443734 said:


> Wow, every one is way to literal. Sure you get heat in 3-5 min and the temp on the guage is rocken 190 deg. Whats the temp of the anitfreeze in the rad??? Has the thermostat opened up yet??? What about the diffs and trans?? Yep, normal operating temps too !!!
> 
> Still stand behind the 40 min rule. If you own a diesel truck and only drive 30min each way to work are you saving $$$$ ???? Same truck running for 4 hours steady...... This was my point.


Diffs and trans - they don't know whether they are gas or diesel do they now.... same diff (no pun intended) :laughing: Yes, yes I know. The diesel tranny and diff has some extra mass which will take a 'little' longer to warm up. But not that much.

You honestly believe that it takes 20 minutes to warm up a diesel? You are clearly not driving the same truck as I am. It sounds like you are driving a heavy truck which would take longer generally to warm up. Or maybe thats just what that old mechanic told you one day.

The gauge reaching full temperature is the only measuring stick you have when driving - that applies both to a gas engine or a diesel and the relationship of "full temp" and rad temp would be the exact same between the two. If it takes 5 minutes to reach full temp with a gas truck and it takes 6 minutes with a diesel (both using the gauge) then the temp in the rad is likely roughly the same on each now isn't it? I don't see any kind of a drop in temperature after that on either, so its safe to say that either the thermostat doesn't open much after reaching full temp or the rad is up to temp. To argue based on anything else is splitting hairs which is not in keeping with the OP or a real world comparison of mileage. If you are the guy that wants full heat a minute or two faster, then I guess you better buy a gas truck.

I have had both gas and diesel my whole working life. There really is not an appreciable advantage to a large block gas engine over its diesel counterpart in warm up time when its under load. Will a gas engine warm up quicker - yes. How much quicker - little difference. Does that little difference in time affect a diesel's comparative mileage - no. That is the point here. Both engines don't do as well in the wintertime as they do in the summer, that is a fact.

Oh, and BTW. I choose to drive my diesel (empty) in the wintertime over my gasser because I continue to enjoy its mileage advantage - and hold on as this may comes as a shock - I ONLY drive 15-20 minutes from house to shop


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

james.j.smith;1443291 said:


> I'm looking to upgrade to a crew cab and have had dodge Dakota in the past. I can't afford a new truck so it will be a 01 or newer truck. I've been comparing gas and diesel trucks and it seems that some people are getting better gas mileage in there diesels. I was wondering what type of gas mileage people are getting in the 1/2 ton and 3/4 tone trucks? I know the gearing plays a big impact but also what type of mods have you done to improve your gas mileage?
> 
> right now I'm plowing with a 91 f250 and tow a 19 foo welcraft with my wife's envoy. the f20 is a regular cab so the family doesn't fit. So I really have no need for the 3/4 ton since alot of people plow with there 1/2 tons and a 1/2 ton will handle the boat. If i can get better gas mileage with a 3/4 ton diesel I would prefer the 3/4 ton.
> 
> thanks in advance for your imput


I gotta ask - do you "need" a crew cab, or is it just something you want? Do you use the truck for much else other than plowing that requires the family to come along? In my opinion you have the perfect setup already - a (I'm assuming) Paid for F250 to use as a dedicated plow truck, and a nice SUV to pull your boat and bring the family along to the water.

Now if you need it for a daily driver, and want something nicer or more reliable to plow with and "need" it to tow the boat because the SUV isn't big enough, then I can understand.

In that case I'd look for a 2006+ Ram 1500 HEMI. Those years have the MDS which does help a little bit in the mpg department. Some get 18-20mpg's on the highway if they cruise at 65mph. It will still hold a 7'6" plow and has plenty of power to push. It also shares the same engine and transmission with the 2500/3500 trucks.

That being said, you can go with a 2003-2005 1500 as well, they have a torsion bar front end that is a little weaker than the 2006 (coil spring strut front), and it doesn't have MDS.

I'd stick to the HEMI if it were a gasser as they get the same or better MPG's than the 4.7 (I've owned both), but have a lot more power.

If you go with a 2500, my 2004 with 4.10's and 265/70/17's got 14-16mpg's. My area is very hilly, average speeds are 45-55mph. They weigh about 1000lbs more than the 1500's, but they still have nice power.

The other's have commented enough on the diesel's.


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## james.j.smith (Sep 20, 2010)

I do need a crew cab. originally I bought the f250 as a stop gap measure to have a truck for plowing and home depot trips. I had to trade in my truck at the time (Dodge Dakota) for a more practical "family car". My wife drives the SUV and I drive a 1989 Chevy caviler for my commuter car to work. Even though the caviler has low miles (50K) I don't expect for it to last forever and need something that will also haul the family around. we just had a baby girl and also have a 6 year old and a dog and we don't want to put the baby in my car.

Once we get the truck, we will be using the truck to haul the boat and for trips to the shore. I plan on using my car to commute to work the majority of the time, but want something more reliable with more room to transport the family then my caviler. Also I plan to get rid of the envoy for something else when I get a truck, since right now I get better gas mileage in the f250 then my wife gets in the envoy and I can't stand the way it tows the boat.

when I purchased a truck I was hoping to get the lower gear ratio rears I believe its the 3.55 to help out with the mileage. I don't commute far to work approximately 15 miles each way but we head away on weekends during the summer which is avg 200 miles each weekend.

I've also been looking into the hemi which a friend gets 17 to 20 mpgs he does a 60 mile commute each day. I know I use to get 19 in my Dakota on the highway if I didn't push it. I've read on some forums that the dodge diesels avg 23 mpg with some people claiming 29 mpg. Another friend of mine gets 23 in his diesel f250. Not sure what way I'm going to go yet but i'm learning alot from every ones input.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

james.j.smith;1443904 said:


> I do need a crew cab. originally I bought the f250 as a stop gap measure to have a truck for plowing and home depot trips. I had to trade in my truck at the time (Dodge Dakota) for a more practical "family car". My wife drives the SUV and I drive a 1989 Chevy caviler for my commuter car to work. Even though the caviler has low miles (50K) I don't expect for it to last forever and need something that will also haul the family around. we just had a baby girl and also have a 6 year old and a dog and we don't want to put the baby in my car.
> 
> Once we get the truck, we will be using the truck to haul the boat and for trips to the shore. I plan on using my car to commute to work the majority of the time, but want something more reliable with more room to transport the family then my caviler. Also I plan to get rid of the envoy for something else when I get a truck, since right now I get better gas mileage in the f250 then my wife gets in the envoy and I can't stand the way it tows the boat.
> 
> ...


Ok with that info - Don't look at the pre 2002 1500's or 2003 2500's (like my truck). The suicide rear doors are the biggest pain when you have kids, and the back seat is far too small for car seats. I have a 5 year old and a 1 year old, the 1 year old has to be in the middle and the 5 year old is right next to him (almost too close). My 5 year old has no room for his feet because of the car seat, and if we attempt to bring the dog its even worse (she's a big dog though, 180lb english mastiff).

The Quad cab trucks have more room but are still a bit small for the family if you bring the dog along, but they are a million times better than the older ones (like mine). If you get a tonneau cover that makes life a much nicer since you now have a huge trunk for your stuff and the cab can keep the baby's diaper bag and some things for your older child without being overly tight.

As far as diesels are concerned, for your purpose I'd stick to a gas truck. A diesel or even a 3/4 ton sounds like it'd be overkill.

What kind of plowing do you do? How big of a boat?


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## james.j.smith (Sep 20, 2010)

I completely understand what your talking about with the car seat. In our envoy we have the rear facing seat in the middle and our 6 year old struggles getting to the seat belt buckles, thought the back seat was big enough until we had to install the car seat.

Even though I'm not a big fan i would probably put a cap on the truck for the spring, summer and fall that way if we need to we can put the dog in the back of the truck in her crate for long trips. it worked really well with the Dakota when we needed to. I know a couple people with the extended cab and crew cab rams both 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton and plan to put the car seat in there trucks to see what type of room we will have. 

I plow as a sub and take car of a couple town home developments, I was also suppose to do lots for UPS this year (if it ever snows). Our boat is a 19 foot welcraft center console (single axle trailer) i'm hoping to upgrade some day and would like to eventually pick up a 20 to 24 foot camper. the camper would come before the boat upgrade (most likely next summer). A half ton should handle both.

my line of thinking is that is I'm getting 18 to 19 highway in a half ton and 22 - 23 in a diesel 3/4 ton. the cost of fuel should be relatively the same. Just not sure how realistic I'm being hat's why I'm trying to get as much research done as possible before I decide what I'm going to go after.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

I'm like you and hate caps but this truck came with one and I've left it on because its come in handy the few times we've used the truck on family trips. They definitely help a lot and add a lot of storage space when traveling that is for sure.

If you'd like, I can snap a picture tonight of what the car seat looks like in my truck. My son is still in a rear facing car seat so you can get an idea. The older trucks also don't have the LATCH system. 

You certainly do a decent amount of plowing it seems, but I'd still think a half ton would handle it fine. A diesel wouldn't bat an eye at it, and for a diesel I think your more likely to get 16mpg in town and up to 20-22mpg highway if you stay with a 5.9 with low (numerically) gears like 3.55's or 3.73's. 

I know you are asking about Dodge's but Chevy and Ford both had full size crew cabs with more space than the Dodge in those years as well. A 7.3 Crew Cab Ford will get some decent MPG's, but Fords gassers really can't hold a candle to the Dodge unless you get the V10, and both get bad mpg's. The Chevy is on par with the Dodge for mpg and has good power as well. The Dmax is a great motor and does well on mpg's too.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

I think a 06ish 1500 series 4x4 mega cab would be a great choice for you.


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## james.j.smith (Sep 20, 2010)

thanks for all the info, a picture would be great, I believe that all cars and trucks after 2001 where required to have the LATCH system for the car seats that is why I'm looking at 2001 to newer. 

I have also been looking at the fords and chevys and have heard alot of good things about the duramax but I think they may be out of my price range. I do not like the body style of the F150 so if I go with a 1/2 ton it will most likly be a dodge and the mega cab seems to have alot of room.

thanks again for all the help


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Just an FYI 3/4 tons are considered a commercial vehicle and aren't required to have the LATCH system. The superduty doesn't have them in their crew cab or supercab even in the 2012 models. Since chevy and dodge use the same cab in the half tons along with the HDs they do have the LATCH.


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## UglyTruck (Feb 8, 2007)

A lot of honest info has been offered, I am proud that nobody had degraded to brand bashing yet.

anyway... I am a diesel guy, I would tell you to buy a diesel. BUT that is a decision that you need to make for yourself and make sure it meets YOUR needs and wants. Myself, I think the 40 min rule is crap, but I do understand the argument behind it, so I cant completely discount it. and after all, I am biased toward diesels 

Do be wary of people telling you they are getting low to mid 20's for MPG. maybe some are, but I know alot of diesel guys and the guy getting that mileage is ALWAYS "A guy I know" , "A friend of a friend", "On a truck I used to have", or "I used to know a guy".

the actual MPG isnt as important as the $ per mile. look at the current price of gas vs. diesel and do the math to compare what mileages you would need to be getting out of a gasser vs a diesel to achieve the same cost per mile. that might help you to better compare apples to apples.

Here is a link to another forum site I am an active member at. if you scroll down there is a forum called "Potential Diesel Owners" it is full of all kinds of newbie information and the people there are alot like here. they want to help, not bash you. http://www.dieselbombers.com/


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Great post and information.


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## james.j.smith (Sep 20, 2010)

I have to agree, and thank you, the information I'm getting is great I'm defintly going to check out that website. I didn't know the information about the LATCH system and that will definitely play into my decision. I did do some rought math last week with assumed gas mileage. If i remember right I used 18 for gas and 21 for diesel based on a trip to OBX we're taking this summer and it was roughly the same price for gas vs diesel. I'm not sure if my numbers were realistic. I was basing it on the numbers guys at work gave me for there dodge hemi and f350 diesel. the one thing I haven't weighed in, I'm told that the price for parts is higher for a diesel but I have no way to factor that in the equation it would just have to be something that I have to deal with.

I have never owned a diesel but I am leaning towards one since I work on diesel generators. and would hope and dream that someday if I had a bigger truck I could get bigger toys. a guy can always dream.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

james.j.smith;1444886 said:


> I have to agree, and thank you, the information I'm getting is great I'm defintly going to check out that website. I didn't know the information about the LATCH system and that will definitely play into my decision. I did do some rought math last week with assumed gas mileage. If i remember right I used 18 for gas and 21 for diesel based on a trip to OBX we're taking this summer and it was roughly the same price for gas vs diesel. I'm not sure if my numbers were realistic. I was basing it on the numbers guys at work gave me for there dodge hemi and f350 diesel. the one thing I haven't weighed in, I'm told that the price for parts is higher for a diesel but I have no way to factor that in the equation it would just have to be something that I have to deal with.
> 
> I have never owned a diesel but I am leaning towards one since I work on diesel generators. and would hope and dream that someday if I had a bigger truck I could get bigger toys. a guy can always dream.


I hope not to start a war here with the Diesel guys but just a few other things to factor in:

-3/4 ton's require D or E rated tires, generally more expensive then P rated for the 1500's
-Front end parts/brakes - might want to check online and compare prices ( half ton vs 3/4)
-Oil Changes - Diesels use gallons, not quarts and its the lifeblood of the engine.
-Fuel filters - need to be changed more on a diesel
-Like you metioned, if something goes wrong on a diesel, its "generally" more expensive to fix.

That in mind, I still want a diesel mostly for the fuel savings since my truck is really only used for plowing and hauling. A diesel will certainly use less fuel in these situations in comparison to my V10.


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## Ram 08 (Nov 14, 2011)

I have to agree with Ugly about being cautious when taking "other guys" mpg ratings and advice. I don't care how well I know them, I always take thier numbers with a grain of salt. For one thing there are so many factors that can play into how many mpg you can get. Unless you have the exact same setup on your truck and drive the exact same terrains, distances, speed, etc. its hard to compare. Just wanted to let you know I'm getting 13-14 out of my Hemi in my 2008 2500HD. Thats running empty/not towing most of the time, living in the country on rural highways, 55-60 mph most of the time, and I do not beat on my truck (very normal/gradual accelerations). I didn't think it was all that bad for that truck and setup, but after reading/hearing others mpg, I wonder why mine is so low.


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## UglyTruck (Feb 8, 2007)

plowguy43;1444911 said:


> I hope not to start a war here with the Diesel guys but just a few other things to factor in:
> 
> -3/4 ton's require D or E rated tires, generally more expensive then P rated for the 1500's
> -Front end parts/brakes - might want to check online and compare prices ( half ton vs 3/4)
> ...


I run load range D tires on mine (I should run E's but they dont make my tire in my size in an E), but i would hope that a half ton would run D's as well just to compensate for the weight of the plow.

front end parts are generally comparable in price and when used for the same plowing need to be changed More often on a 1/2 ton. I have only done mine 1 time in the 7 years that I have been plowing with this truck, it needs done again and will be my spring project, so you can say 2 times in 7 years if you want.

Oil changes. my Cummins takes a little over 3 gallons. I have switched over to full synthetic oil and only do a full oil change once a year. I change out the filter and top off 
the oil level every 2-3 months depending on mileage. The full oil change costs me about $125.00 and the filter and top off changes are about $25 each time. I think over a full year as compared to conventional oil changes in a gasser I actually spend less. I think.

and fuel filters don't need changed very often. I do mine two times a year just out of habit, but I have never had one that was very dirty, and they are only about $10 anyway.

I dont think it is more expensive to fix a diesel than a gas truck. I wont say its cheaper but i dont think it is more. they are all way to expensive to fix. I do think you would spend less on fuel than in the V-10, but if you get the diesel bug you wil quickly find ways to spend that savings on programmers, Gauges, turbos, leveling kits etc....


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## FisheRam (Dec 22, 2011)

DAFFMOBILEWASH;1443309 said:


> To justify the extra cost of the diesel to buy and maintain you need to fit into this criteria.
> 
> -Drive 25 000miles a year or more
> -pull a trailer or work the truck more than 30% of the time
> ...


That's good advice


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Ram 08;1445027 said:


> I have to agree with Ugly about being cautious when taking "other guys" mpg ratings and advice. I don't care how well I know them, I always take thier numbers with a grain of salt. For one thing there are so many factors that can play into how many mpg you can get. Unless you have the exact same setup on your truck and drive the exact same terrains, distances, speed, etc. its hard to compare. Just wanted to let you know I'm getting 13-14 out of my Hemi in my 2008 2500HD. Thats running empty/not towing most of the time, living in the country on rural highways, 55-60 mph most of the time, and I do not beat on my truck (very normal/gradual accelerations). I didn't think it was all that bad for that truck and setup, but after reading/hearing others mpg, I wonder why mine is so low.


Your's isn't low IMO. My 04 never did better than 16mpg in the middle of summer. Tread pattern / tire design has a lot to do with it as well. When I went from Toyo Open Country AT's to my Goodyear Wrangler Authority's I dropped 2mpg's because the Wranglers are basically a mud tire with siping. I averaged what you do with my 04 unloaded.



UglyTruck;1445129 said:


> I run load range D tires on mine (I should run E's but they dont make my tire in my size in an E), but i would hope that a half ton would run D's as well just to compensate for the weight of the plow.
> 
> front end parts are generally comparable in price and when used for the same plowing need to be changed More often on a 1/2 ton. I have only done mine 1 time in the 7 years that I have been plowing with this truck, it needs done again and will be my spring project, so you can say 2 times in 7 years if you want.
> 
> ...


Great info and yes I'd go crazy with the goodies on a diesel, but I digress.

I'm doing an oil change with full synthetic this weekend. 7 quarts and filter is about $30. I'll do it every 5000 miles which for me will literally be twice a year, but just for arguements sake you could assume 3 times a year at that mileage for a daily driver (assuming 15k per year). How many miles do you go between oil changes in the Cummins? (seriously asking)

Front end parts I'm saying generally in a 3/4 ton they wear out faster simply due to weight. Plow or no plow the front end of a 3/4 ton truck is holding more weight than a half ton (especially the trucks he's considering). You are correct that both will need replacing if running a plow.

As for the tire rating, P rated tires go to 2000lbs I believe, which should be fine for a plow that a half ton would be rated for.

Good info here, keep it coming. I enjoy discussions like these that aren't a bashing, but real solid information from experience not "hearsay" (I may have spelled that wrong but you get the picture)


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## UglyTruck (Feb 8, 2007)

Im starting a new thread because I feel bad that we Hijacked this one. 

I hope that James will follow it also if for no other reason than the diesel vs big Gas truck debate. I wont say argument because, like plowguy43 Im not trying to be right, just trying to offer up my reasoning for doing what i do. I also like the honest exchange of ideas. 

I also agree that 12-13 out of ram08's Hemi is by far mor normal than the higher mileages that some others are getting. and I would be willing to bet the guys getting the really good MPG#'s are running a very tall gear and running alot of highway.


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## DAFFMOBILEWASH (Dec 9, 2006)

The great debate continues.. Gas vs diesel for me is a no brainer. I love the 5.9 Cummins engine and the dependability, simplistic design and power makes me smile every day !!! But you as an individual have to make the ultimate finial choice, there is no right or wrong. Just do what make the most sence!!

You know a spolin turbo is hard to resist!!!


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