# Back up alarm- where do you mount them?



## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

I am thinking of adding a reverse alarm. Where is the best place to mount it. Can/should I mount it somewhere in the engine compartment? Save on routing it toward the back of the truck? I plan on putting on a switch. 

Thanks


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Chandlerarms;1399712 said:


> I am thinking of adding a reverse alarm. Where is the best place to mount it. Can/should I mount it somewhere in the engine compartment? Save on routing it toward the back of the truck? I plan on putting on a switch.
> 
> Thanks


A backup alarm needs to be mounted at the rear of the vehicle facing backwards. Under your bumper or to the side of your license plate would work. You should be able to see it to hear it properly. Under the hood wouldn't serve any purpose other then annoying you.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Thanks for the info. If it needs to be in the back, then the back it is. I've gotten pretty good at routing cables anyhow!


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## golfcar (Nov 2, 2011)

Wire it into your backup lights under one of them.


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

golfcar;1399740 said:


> Wire it into your backup lights under one of them.


this is how it was on my old 90 before it accidently got hit with a hammer during a 30 hour storm:laughing:


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Hummm. Golfcar. Can you explain a bit more? Just hot wire to hot then ground it? Is there a way to make it default "trigger" based off of your reverse lights but then have an option to turn them off if your in an empty lot or 30 hr storm?


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

Run it off your trailer plug. Allot easier no splicing this splicing that. Make a magnet mount for the alarm stick it on your salter or bumper or wherever. I did that but the alarm got so annoying and no one payed attention at the apartments I used to plow. They don't move when the see a truck with a plow carrying a huge load of snow why would they move for a alarm. People do not even give may for emergency vehicles and there alarms never mind a silly beeping back up alarm.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

So it sounds like a back up alarm is not worth the hastle???


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Chandlerarms;1399847 said:


> So it sounds like a back up alarm is not worth the hastle???


Heaven forbid something ever happened I think from a liability standpoint I'd rather have one then not. We have them on all of our equipment and I think they do help. I like Grassmans idea of install.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Yeah. I understand. If you hook to The trailer plug. How would it turn on when in reverse? Or is it on at all times while you are plowing?


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Ok. So while sitting here I think I got it. So just like hooking up a utility trailer to the plug, I'd make a custom plug that would hook to the hitch plug and add a magnet to the siren. Sounds like a good idea- plus you could use it seasonal since in the summer it would sit most of the time, so I could un plug it. Does anyone have a "parts list"?


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

JD Dave;1399853 said:


> Heaven forbid something ever happened I think from a liability standpoint I'd rather have one then not. .


Yeah guess that outweighs the annoyance factor. How do I add one to the deere surprised it didn't come with one.


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

Chandlerarms;1399891 said:


> Ok. So while sitting here I think I got it. So just like hooking up a utility trailer to the plug, I'd make a custom plug that would hook to the hitch plug and add a magnet to the siren. Sounds like a good idea- plus you could use it seasonal since in the summer it would sit most of the time, so I could un plug it. Does anyone have a "parts list"?


Yup.

1 7 way round trailer side plug
2 #16 gauge wire ring terminals make it 4 you will need 2 for the back up alarm. 
Some dual wall heat shrink on the wire side of the ring terminals to keep the salt out of the wire. Wouldn't hurt to solder the wires once they are crimped as well.

2 Magnets. 
1 Can of fluid film to spray on trailer plug inside and out as well as on alarm terminals.

White noise back up alarm. They say its not as annoying to the ears. Whelen and Hella make them. Maybe even Grote.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Great! Thanks. I think this set up will work well. I will post an update when it's done.


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## JD Dave (Mar 20, 2007)

Grassman09;1399928 said:


> Yeah guess that outweighs the annoyance factor. How do I add one to the deere surprised it didn't come with one.


JD sells a kit or you can order them from the factory that way. They use a pressure switch off a tranny port so we didn't want to screw with making our own.


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## SharpBlades (Sep 13, 2009)

I don't know what truck you have but on my Chevys I mount them behind the bumper, on the frame near the spare tire mount. 

That white noise alarm is interesting, although I wouldn't trust it till I have seen (heard) it being used. I really don't think it would be effective


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Grassman09;1399943 said:


>


this is the exact setup i first thought of! great minds think alike?
Anyway... What do you plow with this truck Chandlerarms?? 
If its only residential i dont think its as effective/ necessary.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Plowman- it's a one site gig. We own a 50 unit apartment complex broken up into Two parking lots (front and back) 62 parking spots. We have quite a few "older tenants". Just want to make sure we have no accidents (CYA). Based on the layout of the lot, we have to do allot of backing up. Effective/necessary?


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Ps- it's not a huge lot, but there are always cars going in and out. Plus Ontario has some wicked insurance laws!


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

yea you should have one. Pretty much anything commercial you should have a beacon and a backup alarm. Most commercial trucks have on straight out of the factory.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Yeah - that's what I thought. Especially since it's such a low cost safety feature. I will pick up a Hopkins 7 blade 4 ft cable, Whelen 97dB Back up alarm. Just need to find a pair of magnets (like grassmans pic). Can I pick these up at a local B&M store? Lows/home depot?


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## golfcar (Nov 2, 2011)

You should be able to pickup magnets at Lowes or any hardware store. This is a good idea of mounting the backup alarm if you don't use a trailer alot. We use our trucks year round with trailers most of the time so we just mounted it to the frame and there all the time.


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

yeah just go to Home depot or lowes. Im not sure they will have exactly what he has in the picture but im sure they will have something close to it. 
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.lowes.com/pd_181666-3767...rentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=disc+magnet+&facetInfo=


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Well went to both lowes & HD. didn't have anything besides some small magnets. What Plow Man Foster posted were not there. Besides- 1/2 in diameter- isnt that too small? I know I don't need much, but I do not want to loose the siren. I also went to every national auto parts store there is - nothing! 

I also looked at the hitch plug. I have two choices. 1. Purchase a 7 plug head and some 16 gauge wire to make a custom plug (< $20) or Hopkins also makes a 4 ft 7 blade RV Molded trailer cable (basically one end is open cable). I like this option better since it is pre made so no worrying about messing up or moisture getting in the head - just waiting on a local auto parts store to give me a price. If it's not overly expensive I'll get that. But this magnet! Didn't think it would be so hard!


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Chandlerarms;1400931 said:


> Well went to both lowes & HD. didn't have anything besides some small magnets. What Plow Man Foster posted were not there. Besides- 1/2 in diameter- isnt that too small? I know I don't need much, but I do not want to loose the siren. I also went to every national auto parts store there is - nothing!
> 
> I also looked at the hitch plug. I have two choices. 1. Purchase a 7 plug head and some 16 gauge wire to make a custom plug (< $20) or Hopkins also makes a 4 ft 7 blade RV Molded trailer cable (basically one end is open cable). I like this option better since it is pre made so no worrying about messing up or moisture getting in the head - just waiting on a local auto parts store to give me a price. If it's not overly expensive I'll get that. But this magnet! Didn't think it would be so hard!


if you do get just the head, just add some silicone all around the inside. 
Also as for magnets... If you cant find them its not hard to drill 2 holes and bolt the thing on. Then you could still wire it into the trailer light receiver with a 7pin "RV" plug...During the off season i would just tuck the plug up under the frame.. Or you could take it off but that would be a pain!


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## goel (Nov 23, 2010)

Grassman09;1399943 said:


> Yup.


Thats nice and clean NEW. Whats it look like after a night of plowing and salt/slush spray up from the roads? What about after a season? 

We pull the drivers side tail light out and mount them to the truck where they get some protection from the elements.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Yeah, I guess I can bolt them on, but I like the idea of removing them when not needed. I know I can find the magnets "on line" but never thought it would be that hard to find locally.


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

goel;1401019 said:


> Thats nice and clean NEW. Whats it look like after a night of plowing and salt/slush spray up from the roads? What about after a season?
> 
> We pull the drivers side tail light out and mount them to the truck where they get some protection from the elements.


Wait i assumed that it was still mounted to the frame under the truck bed....
Thats the only way i would do it.
Now that i think of it, you could even zip tie it for a temporary mount! Zip tie it under the frame and still plug it into the 7way!


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

JD Dave;1400008 said:


> JD sells a kit or you can order them from the factory that way. They use a pressure switch off a tranny port so we didn't want to screw with making our own.


Ok thx.



goel;1401019 said:


> Thats nice and clean NEW. Whats it look like after a night of plowing and salt/slush spray up from the roads? What about after a season?
> 
> We pull the drivers side tail light out and mount them to the truck where they get some protection from the elements.


Quit being a Debbi downer just because there is no snow for your per push cheap school board accounts. The seasonal guys need a reprieve every so often. This is our year now go away.

But yes stick it somewhere where the crap does not get at it. I imagine yours that sit under the dump box at the salter that are hard wired also get full of crap.

Just figured this would be good for someone who doesn't want the alarm on all year round.


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## Dan85 (Oct 14, 2008)

For what it's worth; I had an alarm mounted on my truck but the mechanic wired an on/off switch so that I could mute it at night for the few residential accounts we had. I think they're a solid investment, every little bit helps.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

GRAINGER! They have 2.6 dia (65 lbs) and 3.2 dia (95 lbs) magnets with center holes for less the $10. Should the smaller dia do the job? I might also use a zip tie as a "emergency back up" so I don't loose it for some reason. Oh, they also carry the Fluid film so I might as well pick up a can or two!


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

Chandlerarms;1401134 said:


> GRAINGER! They have 2.6 dia (65 lbs) and 3.2 dia (95 lbs) magnets with center holes for less the $10. Should the smaller dia do the job? I might also use a zip tie as a "emergency back up" so I don't loose it for some reason. Oh, they also carry the Fluid film so I might as well pick up a can or two!


I think 135lbs of holding strength should hold the lil 10lb if that back up alarm.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Thanks for everyones help. I think I will pick up the 97dB unit this week. Make a custome 7pin RV plug and add 2 65lbs magnets to a bracket. I wil try to mount it somewhere above the spare tire, hopefully somewhere where I can add a zip for added security. This way, I can remove it in the spring. If I add any more lights, or have to run more cable, I might considder adding an "on/off" switch, since the overall investment will not be too much.


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

If you use the Grote alarm you just bolt them on with washer to the alarm no bracket needed. Use a relay if you are going to hardwire the alarm in sometime. The electrical system on the truck might throw a code as its seeing a more then normal power draw if you just tap into the reverse wire. Also don't use the scotch locks or the line tap that you pinch with pliers salter water will get in the connection then you will be in for a real world of hurt.

Try these guys http://www.posi-lock.com/ I thought they had a watertight connector.


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## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

Chandlerarms;1402616 said:


> Thanks for everyones help. I think I will pick up the 97dB unit this week. Make a custome 7pin RV plug and add 2 65lbs magnets to a bracket. I wil try to mount it somewhere above the spare tire, hopefully somewhere where I can add a zip for added security. This way, I can remove it in the spring. If I add any more lights, or have to run more cable, I might considder adding an "on/off" switch, since the overall investment will not be too much.


I have an on/off switch on mine, but, I can't completely turn it off as it always works in reverse.

But what the switch does is turn it on constant when I need it. Sometimes I get in lots during business hours and it comes in real handy to help warn people that I'm here and stay clear. The only pitfall is that with the switch on, it turns on my reverse lights also.

.....


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

White Gardens;1402889 said:


> I have an on/off switch on mine, but, I can't completely turn it off as it always works in reverse.
> 
> But what the switch does is turn it on constant when I need it. Sometimes I get in lots during business hours and it comes in real handy to help warn people that I'm here and stay clear. The only pitfall is that with the switch on, it turns on my reverse lights also.
> 
> .....


I run 2 beepers Both can be turned off
1 is hook in the reverse lights with a switch to break connection between beeper and reverse lights wire
2nd beeper is on a switch that I can run all time For busy parking lots


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## bayshoreinc (Nov 23, 2011)

Check this site out for magnets. Got any shape, size and strength you could ever imagine.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp?gclid=CIX7_eCipKgCFQzNKgod5B4liA


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## superdog1 (Oct 13, 2011)

Antlerart06;1402942 said:


> I run 2 beepers
> 2nd beeper is on a switch that I can run all time For busy parking lots


That is a GREAT idea! While it will drive you insane after a few hours of listening to it, it is much better than a flashing strobe that is hard to see in bright sunlight.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

So I finally got a chance to mount the Whelen back up siren. But I could not get it to work. I am pretty sure I hooked it up right. What I did was:


Basically looks like Grassman09's 
I soldered the siren wire to extend the wire. 
I used loom and attached it to a Hopkins 7 pin plug - Model 48505. 
Red wire to the center "Back up" terminal - black wire to the ground terminal. 
I also reversed the two wires to make sure I didn't get it wrong.
I also put the positive wire to the tail /marker plug.

I used a circuit tester to make sure power was going to the pins (truck side). Looked good there.

Not sure what the issue might be? What else should I test? How should I test? Could my soldering job be bad? Also - don't have the truck close (it stays at the property), so how can I test it? I do have a 6v/12v charger - Could I hook it up to that? Can I hook it directly to a car battery to test?


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Yeah make sure the beeper works first... Hook it directly to the battery on the car. Or even a Jumper box. 
Lol sorry for editing this so many times..>ANYWAY, if i were you i wouldnt solder any of the wires. Just because it might touch a ground connection. SO IF I WERE going to do this i would twist both ends together and tape it. Or better yet use look hole connections to attach it to the siren itself.

As for the wiring just make sure your positive and ground connections are the same on both the TRUCK and BEEPER side. As shown in the pic below. Also with that plug make sure your wires are ONLY touching the terminal you want then to!

**My buddy wanted me to tell you to just put the truck in reverse with the parking brake on and test each wire... But i thought that wouldnt be too nice.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

superdog1;1403071 said:



> That is a GREAT idea! While it will drive you insane after a few hours of listening to it, it is much better than a flashing strobe that is hard to see in bright sunlight.


you get use to it 
Yes flashing strobe doesnt work well in sunlight
The beeper in the front really gets people attention I know back one does to but I cant see people reaction when I m backing up


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Actually Plow Man - I thought of doing that for a split second, but quickly remembered that wouldnt be a good idea  Actually I did confirm the center pin was getting juice with the help of a friend. 

Well I did test it with the battery from my personal veh., and it works!. Now I guess its a bad connection to the truck side plug. The truck side plug is a little beat up, so I am not sure if I should just replace it?

The alarm fits nicely right behind the rear lens - I was wondering if I could make some sort of "quick connect/disconnect" where I can connect the alarm to the reverse lens wire and simply "disconnect" it during the summer? This way it fits nice and neat behind the lens - No using the trailer connection, and I wouldn't have to run any wire to the cab????

Thoughts?


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

Chandlerarms;1452667 said:


> Actually Plow Man - I thought of doing that for a split second, but quickly remembered that wouldnt be a good idea  Actually I did confirm the center pin was getting juice with the help of a friend.
> 
> Well I did test it with the battery from my personal veh., and it works!. Now I guess its a bad connection to the truck side plug. The truck side plug is a little beat up, so I am not sure if I should just replace it?
> 
> ...


If you dont have it out in the open It wont be very loud
One my trucks I have a in line switch that is all weather switch You reach under truck turn it off at the beeper


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

In line switch sounds like a good idea! Do you have an example of one? (quick google gives me mostly for lamps). If the alarm is too muffled, I guess I would move it.


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Here is what one of my buddys did: 
He tapped into the reverse lights, wired a Hot and "cold" (neg) To the front of his pickup bed(closest to the cab) And there he has a 2 prong quick connect. So pretty much he has the siren in his pickup bed on the side wall...

Wire a switch under the lip of your pickup bed. Just a regular Waterproof toggle switch. it would act more as a interrupter.


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## Antlerart06 (Feb 28, 2011)

Plow man Foster;1452688 said:


> Here is what one of my buddys did:
> He tapped into the reverse lights, wired a Hot and "cold" (neg) To the front of his pickup bed(closest to the cab) And there he has a 2 prong quick connect. So pretty much he has the siren in his pickup bed on the side wall...
> 
> Wire a switch under the lip of your pickup bed. Just a regular Waterproof toggle switch. it would act more as a interrupter.
> ...


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

OK - So I get a weatherproof toggle switch. Do I use the positive (+red) wire to the toggle switch, then to the reverse light? Is this correct. Where do I ground the negative (black) wire?

Also- which one is the posive wire into the reverse light? Looks like there are the wires going into the light (bulb).

What is the best way to "tap" into the wire?


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Chandlerarms;1452837 said:


> OK - So I get a weatherproof toggle switch. Do I use the positive (+red) wire to the toggle switch, then to the reverse light? Is this correct. Where do I ground the negative (black) wire?
> 
> Also- which one is the posive wire into the reverse light? Looks like there are the wires going into the light (bulb).
> 
> What is the best way to "tap" into the wire?


To be COMPLETELY honest with you I dont know which wire is which.... i will do some research and see what i find. But you're best off posting that question in the Chevy section of plowsite.

As for tapping into the lights, you would find the positive wire going to the light. Then cut it, peel back the the "shield" ......twist both ends of the wires..... Get a red wire (this is the one that will go to to the connector. Do the same to the neg. wire... and you're good.

Its so much easier to explain through a picture!!!!! lol Dont make fun of my pic! haha! 2 mins in Paint on my mac!


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Thanks for the pic Plow Man Foster. Seems kind of hard to find a simple weatherproof toggle locally. I did find a nice one by Priceless, but they are $25! What does everyone think if I use a radioshack "project box" (3 x 2 x 1)? It's small enough and I could use a basic switch and just silicone the seams and wires coming out of it. It should still fit nicely behind the rear lens, and shouldn't take much abuse of I secure it good?


Also- what should I look for- 10/20/30 amps? Should I add a fuse? Watts to look for? Single pole? Just need on/off. No need for on/off/on or momentary. 
Thoughts?


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Chandlerarms;1455824 said:


> Thanks for the pic Plow Man Foster. Seems kind of hard to find a simple weatherproof toggle locally. I did find a nice one by Priceless, but they are $25! What does everyone think if I use a radioshack "project box" (3 x 2 x 1)? It's small enough and I could use a basic switch and just silicone the seams and wires coming out of it. It should still fit nicely behind the rear lens, and shouldn't take much abuse of I secure it good?
> 
> Also- what should I look for- 10/20/30 amps? Should I add a fuse? Watts to look for? Single pole? Just need on/off. No need for on/off/on or momentary.
> Thoughts?


fuse might not be necessary but it never hurts! you checked the local auto stores?!?!?!? Kinda weird! that box should work though.

heres one on ebay... 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-amp-Togg...ar&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc2680dff#ht_2027wt_1141


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Yeah - I have been calling all the usual suspects and no one has a weatherproof toggle on hand. You have to order them. I will try the "project box" idea. I think it should work nicely and its cheep enough that if it doesnt work, I can order one online. Ill post pics hopefully by the w/e.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

So here is an update. I added a toggle switch to the 3x2x1 Radio Shack project box. Ran the negative wire to the switch then will run to the negative on the reverse light. Positive will go directly to the positive wire.

I used some silicon to "weatherproof" the inside of the box. I also plan on gluing magnetic strip on the back of it, so there is no need to permanently mount anything, yet still be sturdy. Once I find my soldering kit, I will connect the truck side wires. Here are some pics so far.


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Finally installed the alarm. Ended up finding a "weatherproof" toggle locally, so switched that out. All fits nicely behind the rear lens, nice and compact- nothing sticking out, and shouldnt be much trouble to loosen the lens twice a year to turn it on and off. Alarm doesn't seem muffled, and plenty of "beep beep" sound! Thanks for everyone help on this one!


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

Chandlerarms;1458096 said:


> Finally installed the alarm. Ended up finding a "weatherproof" toggle locally, so switched that out. All fits nicely behind the rear lens, nice and compact- nothing sticking out, and shouldnt be much trouble to loosen the lens twice a year to turn it on and off. Alarm doesn't seem muffled, and plenty of "beep beep" sound! Thanks for everyone help on this one!


Wow that looks slick! i like it!


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## Chandlerarms (Nov 9, 2011)

Thanks Plow Man. Here the final pic installed. Fits nicely :bluebounc


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