# Berms are too high, now what?



## Zephrant

Last year and this year, the berms on the sides of my road have gotten too tall to throw the snow over. I've got a Snowbear that has otherwise performed well for 5+ years.

Today we got another 9" of heavy wet snow- It balls up and rolls, and won't go over the existing berms. I managed to put a dent in the side of the Wagoneer on one side, and a long scratch on the other as the snow rolled over the end of the blade, and fell back against the Jeep as I went by.

Each time I plow I've gone as wide as I can, but as the road is on a hill I can mostly only plow to the down-hill side.

I'm about to try to find a tractor/blower combo (impossible this time of year, but I'll look anyway), and give up on the blade. My road is about 1/4 mi, and 100' of vertical. 

Any other suggestions?


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## JDiepstra

Faster.... Faster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## In2toys

rent a skidsteer for a day & push it all in the ditch.. Or use the Blade to push it over the edge. Alot of forward & reverse but it may buy you some time.


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## In2toys

jdiepstra;694340 said:


> faster.... Faster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


roflmao!!!!!!!!


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## Johnny Bravo

Around here when the berm on the sides get soft they come and plow them back, I do the same thing, just lift the plow up and go in at the berm, it works if you have the space to do it.


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## Zephrant

OK- I've not driven a skidsteer before, so am pretty leery of learning how to drive it on a snow covered hillside...

The road is too tight for me to push them back much with the Jeep- I tried two days ago, and bent the blade back on one side a few degrees when I could not get a full straight bite.

Maybe it is best to hire someone to buy me some time. I'm a little concerned about finding someone willing to come out too- heavier than normal show around here this year already.


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## HALH VT

See if you can hire someone with a wing on a one-ton or loader. Two or three passes each way, and you will be good for a few more storms. Just make sure they leave at least a six inch shelf, or the next time you plow the snow may not be the only thing that ends up off the road.


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## 04sd

Maybe a long shot but I'd probably try it if it was me. Take about a 12' long 2x12 and bolt it to the face of your blade leaving it stick out the one side. Start with the blade raised and try to knock back the top of the berms a little at a time working your way down. This way you keep the jeep on the road.
Me, if/when I get to that point I have a 4' blower on a large JD garden tractor to blow the snow over the top


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## Zephrant

I've got a call in to my local excavator, but with these storms I don't know if he will take the time to do my piddly road. So far, 24hrs and no return call.

Good idea on the 2x12- I'm concerned that my mount might get bent out of shape if I go around pushing snow 6' off center with it though... It got warm, then cold again so lots of ice in there now.


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## nekos

JDiepstra;694340 said:


> Faster.... Faster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


lol thats how i would do it !

if you want to take the less fun approach ... keep the blade straight , raise the blade 1 - 2 feet off the ground and push the top of the windrow back. you should be able to throw the snow over the windrow after that.

:note:
you plow needs to be wider then your truck to do this.


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## tawilson

Sounds like a tractor is in order. Blowing snow in the winter and working on the road in the summer.


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## TerrForms

*Don't even try it with a snowbear!*

Call a contractor with a bulldozer or large front loader. You will kill that plow. We keep a local contractor on call just in case of something like that! 
JS


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## JCStrasser

Don't know anyone with a front end loader? Had the banks closing in on me a week ago (I plow with a rear grading blade on my 4WD New Holland) then spent 4+ hours using the FEL pushing the banks back.

Having the snow banks become too high are the biggest problem for plows that aren't full size.

Good luck.

John


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## WingPlow

although i,m sure it works well for you, i would say if you just found somebody with a fullsize truck/plow, they could move back your windrows enough for you, without the expense of loaders or as someone said....a bulldozer


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## Zephrant

I'll have to call around- no reply from my normal guy, who certainly has the equipment to do this for me.

For future use, I've given up and ordered a lawn-tractor/blower combo, which should come in next week. Just too tired of racing the Jeep down the hill, trying to go fast enough to throw but not so fast I ditch/roll the whole thing. 

Thanks for the suggestions-


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## DEWFPO

Around here I can only typically use the snowblade early in the season since I am limited on places to store the snow. Then the snowblower comes out. Nice clean cuts and there's never any problem with room. In my case I am lucky enough to have a Bobcat Toolcat and can swap out the attachments in about 1-2 minutes if I need to.

DEWFPO


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## Zephrant

Another day, another two hours pushing snow 1000' down the drive way in to the cul-de-sac.

I take delivery on a used JD 2210 Thursday night though- I'm excited to spend many hours pushing back the snow berms....

I've not bought chains yet, but I suspect I'll have to get them soon. I sure needed them tonight in the Jeep. Slush over ice on the road, it's melting off fast here tonight.


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## 04sd

2210. That's a step up from a craftsman tractor! Loader or blade?


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## brimfield

I've got a 1/4 mile driveway too and not alot of area to put it. I use a 13hp 48" snow blower to clean up the banks and toss it into the woods when it piles up alot.


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## Zephrant

Yeah, a bit of a step up.  Took me a few weeks to decide what I really needed. I had actually bought a JD X300R with blower ($6200) but had not taken delivery. The sales guy was very concerned that the little guy would not have the traction to blow up/down my driveway. So I ponied up the extra few thousand to get an almost real tractor. Just a loader for now- I'll look for a used blade for later purchase.

I thought long and hard about a blower to just clean up the banks, and while I'm sure it would work for me too my blade/Jeep combination was getting worn out. I would at least need some welding work on it to repair damage, and overall I think the blade is just wearing out and will need replacement soon.

For some reason my wife did not want me walking a blower up/down the driveway either- not sure why, but since she backed the tractor instead I wasn't going to dig in to that issue too much.


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## JCStrasser

Zephrant;706214 said:


> Yeah, a bit of a step up.  Took me a few weeks to decide what I really needed. I had actually bought a JD X300R with blower ($6200) but had not taken delivery. The sales guy was very concerned that the little guy would not have the traction to blow up/down my driveway. So I ponied up the extra few thousand to get an almost real tractor. Just a loader for now- I'll look for a used blade for later purchase...
> 
> ....For some reason my wife did not want me walking a blower up/down the driveway either- not sure why, but since she backed the tractor instead I wasn't going to dig in to that issue too much.


*Good move*. I winter/plow, summer/grade (York rake) close to 2000' of gravel road with this:










The rear grading blade is not as fast as a truck mounted plow, but when the banks get high, the FEL (front end loader) really shines. Good luck with your tractor.

John


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## Zephrant

Looks good- Do you have extra lights mounted on that tractor? I'm worried about not being able to see tonight when it is delivered. We are getting a hard freeze tonight after several days of thawing, so I want to get my berms moved before they go solid on me.

Any recommendations on an exact model back blade? So far I'm thinking I want a 5' blade with a 12" offset capability, and the ability to rotate it 180 degrees.

I think that the Frontier RB2072 does all of that, but need to ask a sales guy to be sure.


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## mnglocker

Zephrant;707068 said:


> Looks good- Do you have extra lights mounted on that tractor? I'm worried about not being able to see tonight when it is delivered. We are getting a hard freeze tonight after several days of thawing, so I want to get my berms moved before they go solid on me.
> 
> Any recommendations on an exact model back blade? So far I'm thinking I want a 5' blade with a 12" offset capability, and the ability to rotate it 180 degrees.
> 
> I think that the Frontier RB2072 does all of that, but need to ask a sales guy to be sure.


I've got a plain old KingKutter 5' on my 2210, works slick. 
As far as lighting, you can manage just fine with factory lighting, however, with an FEL the head lights will be blocked part of the time, I might suggest puting forward and rear facing utility lights on the ROPs bar.


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## DEWFPO

mnglocker;707241 said:


> I might suggest puting forward and rear facing utility lights on the ROPs bar.


That's what I did on my tractor. Easy to do and works great. It's nice having the lights up high, much better visibility.

DEWFPO


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## Zephrant

Any particular lights that are recommended? I checked our local stores yesterday, and all they had were some 6"x4" lights- in flood and trapezoid shaped beams. I found some nice low-profile fog lights, but I'm afraid that their beam style would not work well when mounted that high. Too sharp of a cut-off I suspect.


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## mnglocker

Zephrant;707274 said:


> Any particular lights that are recommended? I checked our local stores yesterday, and all they had were some 6"x4" lights- in flood and trapezoid shaped beams. I found some nice low-profile fog lights, but I'm afraid that their beam style would not work well when mounted that high. Too sharp of a cut-off I suspect.


You are correct on the fog lights. Places suchs as tractor supply have inexpensive metal body rubber jacketed 55w tractor lights made by peterson mfg for about $10-15 each.


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## DEWFPO

Zephrant;707274 said:


> Any particular lights that are recommended? I checked our local stores yesterday, and all they had were some 6"x4" lights- in flood and trapezoid shaped beams. I found some nice low-profile fog lights, but I'm afraid that their beam style would not work well when mounted that high. Too sharp of a cut-off I suspect.


IMO wide beam floods are better.

DEWFPO


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## Zephrant

I got the tractor tonight, and spent a few hours on it. I did buy the Frontier blade for it. Paid list price I suspect, but my 2WD pickup is out of commission for the winter, so I had no way to shop around for it without having to arrange to get it hauled to my place. Since they were coming out with the tractor anyway, I had them mount it and bring it.

First thing I noticed- if I angle the 6' blade, it just pushes the tractor sideways. I've got chains on order, but it will be a week for them to come in. I may have to add weight someplace too.

But I started getting the hang of the bucket- I pushed back the berms in the cul-de-sac fine, but made no progress on the ones along the road. Couldn't use the blade, and the bucket would be very slow. 

Ran out of time to play tonight, but I'll give it another go tomorrow.

Was nice to be out playing in the snow with the moon out though. Could not see much behind me, but the front lights were OK for bucket work. 

I'll look for those Peterson lights- thanks for the help.


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## tawilson

tawilson;695702 said:


> Sounds like a tractor is in order. Blowing snow in the winter and working on the road in the summer.


Glad to see my subliminal suggestion took hold. You won't regret it. Tractor with front end loader is one of the best tools I ever bought. Now how about some pics. And you're finding out it isn't the price of the tractor, it's all the accessories, like the loader mounted snowblower.


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## JCStrasser

Zephrant;707068 said:


> Looks good- Do you have extra lights mounted on that tractor? I'm worried about not being able to see tonight when it is delivered. We are getting a hard freeze tonight after several days of thawing, so I want to get my berms moved before they go solid on me.


I added a utility light to the right rear fender to see what the rear blade is doing, Wired it to a relay that I located near the battery- takes the signal voltage off the wiring to the headlights. This way if I need any further lights, I am set. I did a relay since I have no idea how much current the headlight switch can handle- don't want to find out on a dark night.












Zephrant;707068 said:


> Any recommendations on an exact model back blade? So far I'm thinking I want a 5' blade with a 12" offset capability, and the ability to rotate it 180 degrees.
> 
> I think that the Frontier RB2072 does all of that, but need to ask a sales guy to be sure.


I find that with the blade facing forward I can plow equally well forward and backward, so do not find it necessary to turn it 180.

Get us some pictures!

Good luck,
John


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## JCStrasser

Also, I run rear (double ring) chains and loaded tires.

I still get some unwanted steering from the rear blade- if conditions cause more I load the bucket with old, crusty (heavy) snow for weight.

John


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## mnglocker

Zephrant;708131 said:


> I got the tractor tonight, and spent a few hours on it. I did buy the Frontier blade for it. Paid list price I suspect, but my 2WD pickup is out of commission for the winter, so I had no way to shop around for it without having to arrange to get it hauled to my place. Since they were coming out with the tractor anyway, I had them mount it and bring it.
> 
> *First thing I noticed- if I angle the 6' blade, it just pushes the tractor sideways.* I've got chains on order, but it will be a week for them to come in. I may have to add weight someplace too.
> 
> But I started getting the hang of the bucket- I pushed back the berms in the cul-de-sac fine, but made no progress on the ones along the road. Couldn't use the blade, and the bucket would be very slow.
> 
> Ran out of time to play tonight, but I'll give it another go tomorrow.
> 
> Was nice to be out playing in the snow with the moon out though. Could not see much behind me, but the front lights were OK for bucket work.
> 
> I'll look for those Peterson lights- thanks for the help.


See if you can trade them for a 5'. A six footer is too much for that machine. I run turf tires, and no weights on my 2210 without any side walking issues.

Also, play around with adjusting the top link, you may have it adjusted too long oor too short making one corner of the blade dig if it's angled. When the blade is on the ground you want the main boom it's haning from to be as close to level as possible.


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## heavyiron

I was going to suggest loading the tires also, unless you've got concerns about weight with the machine in summer. Chains can't hurt if you've got a gravel driveway too. 

Also, as time goes on, thougths of an enclosed cab may come into your head. It'll be a good investment, even if it's not heated, it's going to help with safety and comfort when it's really blowing out.


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## Zephrant

I'm still thinking hard about a blower for next year- the idea of never having berms to deal with again is very tempting. My lack of good results so far with the blade also factors in there.

Good idea on the relay- I'll do that too. Right now I'm trying to figure out how many lights and where.

Rear chains are on the way- delivery next Thursday. I think I'll weight the tires too- I need to research that. How do you get gallons of liquid in though that tiny tube? I understand that they use salt-water (rust-inducing, so does not thrill me) or even windshield washer fluid. I can't think of why I'd ever need to drain it out- maybe if I'm in the woods in the summer? Should always be fine on the road, no?

Yeah the 6' blade might be a little big- Do you run chains mnglocker? I was able to use it on ice fine, but as soon as it touched dirt I was going sideways. Do you have the skid shoes? I don't yet, but I'm thinking they might be required on a thawing gravel road.

I got the 6' because I wanted to be able to push back the berms while the blade is angled, and while I'm still on the road. I don't expect to do much dirt work with it (I understand a box-blade is better for that). I've not yet taken it off to try yet, and now the berms are frozen solid. Might thaw on Sunday they say.

I did manage to bend my top link- had the blade up and was working the snow banks in the cul-de-sac when I ran up to far on a snow ramp, and the back blade hit the road. Didn't think much of it, so was not careful enough. Saw the bent end this morning though. I sure don't have much clearance on that blade when it is up.

The enclosed cab is on my list, but not any time soon- big bucks for those it looks like. I think I will get a top though- around $300 and it will give me a nice place to mount lights fore and aft. Perterson sure does have a lot of lights. Anyone know who sells them at a good price?


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## Zephrant

I'll take pictures this weekend- got to clean it up a touch first. That's actually one of my concerns- the last owner did not take very good care of it. Paint is chalked, decals are faded, some scratches that are rusting on the hood, etc. Concrete in the bucket and splashed on the loader arms, overspray of some white stuff all-over the unit, etc. Not at all the way I like to keep my equipment, and I'm embarrassed that people would see that and think I treat my equipment that way.

So, I'm going to look in to a little restoration next summer when it warms up. My only concern right now, is that I can't salvage the decals so would have to strip them off. That detracts from the unit some, but the shiny new paint sure would help.

Then again, I don't much worry about ruining the paint right now....


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## mnglocker

No chains on mine, just turf tires. No shoes on/for the blade. You'll find the rear blade stinks for moving banks, that's what the loader is for.


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## mnglocker

mnglocker;708365 said:


> Also, *play around with adjusting the top link, you may have it adjusted too long or too short making one corner of the blade dig if it's angled*. When the blade is on the ground you want the main plow boom it's haning from to be as close to level as possible. when down.


Pay attention to this part. I think this may be your biggest problem causing the rear of the machine to walk.

Rear wheel weights wouldn' be a bad idea because you have an FEL. The saline used for tires isn't a salt water mix, it's some other chemicals. Call some tire shops in your area. They'll tube the tires and pump them to 80% full of the ballast liquid. Rust won't be an issue. The rear tires on my case 448 have had liquid ballast since 1980 without any leaks or rust issues.


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## Zephrant

It looks pretty close to level- the back might be just a little bit on the high side, but that could be because I bent the top linkage a little when I ran the front tires up on a berm. The back blade hit the pavement, and later I noticed there is a bend in the linkage now. 

I just pulled it in to the garage, and later I'll get a level on it and see how it is. 

I'm surprised you don't use shoes for the blade though- I was thinking they were mandatory on soft ground. So you think the plan of using the blade at 6" high and driving down the road to push back the berms is not workable?

Would a normal tire shop know how to ballast the tires, or do I have to get to a tractor shop?
Any reason to ballast the front tires too?


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## mnglocker

It looks pretty close to level- the back might be just a little bit on the high side, but that could be because I bent the top linkage a little when I ran the front tires up on a berm. The back blade hit the pavement, and later I noticed there is a bend in the linkage now. 

New links can be purchased for pretty cheap $15-40ish

I just pulled it in to the garage, and later I'll get a level on it and see how it is.

I'm surprised you don't use shoes for the blade though- I was thinking they were mandatory on soft ground. So you think the plan of using the blade at 6" high and driving down the road to push back the berms is not workable?

My work is mostly on pavement, when working on clearing dirt roads, drop the blade to the ground and float it up about 1"

Would a normal tire shop know how to ballast the tires, or do I have to get to a tractor shop?
Any shop worth their weight in slat will know how to or will refer you to who does.

Any reason to ballast the front tires too?
Not that I can think of, the fronts are small and low profile, it wouldn't make much of a difference. besides, you've got the big hun of steel (FEL) hanging off the front correct?


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## Gettindirty

Enjoy the tractor. Now go sign up at tractorbynet.com and start adding stuff! Go slow, and be careful. Speed will come with time.
First 2305 then 2520 now JD3720


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## Zephrant

Thanks for the help- lots of new stuff to learn here.

I may have been trying to keep the blade too low then- I thought I was trying to scrape the ground, so I'll try it again. I noticed that it raises pretty fast- A very fast jog on the lever moves it almost an inch. I was thinking that I could slow down the drop speed (2210 has gravity drop) and learn to fine-tune the height that way. Going up slower would be nice though.

Funny you should mention tractorbynet- for the last week I've been spending 4hrs or more a day there reading up on stuff. Just started posting there last night: How do I figure out the year from the serial number?


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## Zephrant

tawilson;695702 said:


> Sounds like a tractor is in order. Blowing snow in the winter and working on the road in the summer.


BTW- My wife would like few words with you about your suggestion.....


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## kenidaho

Well I live in Spokane also I had been plowing with an ATV and the berms were causing problems. Well the snow has started to melt but yesterday I got a Hinker 8 foot plow for my 1/2 ton GMC 4wd. Wow this will push snow now I have lots of roem. I was even able to widen my neighbors drive that has a tractor. he was having trouble making it wider. I widened our private road by 8 feet. I doubt I will have any problems now. I will be able to start out and keep it wide


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## mnglocker

Zephrant;710202 said:


> Thanks for the help- lots of new stuff to learn here.
> 
> I may have been trying to keep the blade too low then- I thought I was trying to scrape the ground, so I'll try it again. I noticed that it raises pretty fast- A very fast jog on the lever moves it almost an inch.* I was thinking that I could slow down the drop speed (2210 has gravity drop) *and learn to fine-tune the height that way. Going up slower would be nice though.
> 
> Funny you should mention tractorbynet- for the last week I've been spending 4hrs or more a day there reading up on stuff. Just started posting there last night: How do I figure out the year from the serial number?


It's the knob between your legs below the seat.


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## Zephrant

My issues with the blade on my Jeep were two-fold. It is smaller than a commercial blade, and the hill and curves made it so I could only throw one way, and had to keep my speed down. If I was down on the flat I could have twice the snow without the problems I've got now, and could certainly drive faster.

I thought the berms were too frozen to do anything today, so I went out and waxed the hood and fueled it up. Then I decided to work on the blade positioning, so took it out and determined that I've got 7.5" of clearance when the blade is up. I got that adjustment turned down so it drops slower, and practiced setting it at 1" up.

Turns out if I drop it all the way down (so the weight is off of the tractor) then do a very quick blip up, I get it about 1/2" above the ground. 

Then I made my mistake(s)- I tried the berms, and could make progress on them, so went and dropped off the blade so I would not further damage the linkage. Things went well enough up by the house, but then I went down to the corner which has some slope and ice. I didn't tip it over, but came close a few times.

I should have stopped and thought harder about it the first time it happened. I did stop, but not long enough to realize that it was the lack of the back blade as a counter-balance that was causing me to be so tippy. Twice I would have bailed off of the tractor, but I was buckled in so did not make it off. Luckily I was able to drop the bucket each time, and regain control, but it was greatly concerning. 

What was happening was that I'd pick up a big scoop of snow/ice, then back up and turn to dump it to the side. As it came up and I turned, the CG changed enough to make one of the back tires come up off of the ground. Several times I just froze-up, analyzed it, and tried to undo whatever I had done. The tractor was happy to sit there with one wheel a foot off of the ground while I pondered.

Not long after I figured out that if I just drop the bucket I'm OK (and I was already moving slower and watching for that problem), I got it stuck. I dropped the front two wheels in a scooped out hole I had just made as I drove forward to dump the bucket, and the back tires were on a sheet of ice. No traction at all.

So I really need those chains, the weighted tires, and maybe I probably need to keep the blade on as well. Not to mention more practice, and maybe a change of shorts....


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## tawilson

Zephrant;710205 said:


> BTW- My wife would like few words with you about your suggestion.....


I take it you haven't run the snowblower and heated cab by her yet?
As for the filled or weighted tires, do a few searches at TBN, tons of stuff there. Mine are filled with Calcium Chloride, which I did myself when I put new tires on. There are other options/chemicals available.


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## tawilson

mnglocker;710255 said:


> It's the knob between your legs below the seat.


I've been trying to come up with a joke about this, but I decided to keep my hands off of it.


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## JDiepstra

mnglocker;710255 said:


> It's the knob between your legs below the seat.





tawilson;710972 said:


> I've been trying to come up with a joke about this, but I decided to keep my hands off of it.


You mean something like "I didn't realize the new term for a White House intern is 'Knob'"?


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## Zephrant

tawilson;710968 said:


> I take it you haven't run the snowblower and heated cab by her yet?


I have mentioned the blower for next year- and that I was watching ebay for a cab, but was going to let the heater be a surprise after I put the cab on.... 

I did some more work today, with the blade on and the tractor was far, far more stable. I did not yet weight the tires- I'm still a touch afraid of using the salt-water. I'd be pretty annoyed if a wheel rusted off on me because I tried to save $60 worth of windshield washer fluid.

Then again, the washer fluid is just 10-20% methanol anyway and I have several gallons of that in the garage from my model airplane activities. This recipe for windshield washer fluid calls for 10% methanol but a jug I have in the garage claims it is 20% methanol, and protects down to 0 degrees F.

The methanol I have is too old to fly with- it picks up water when it ages, and it's 10 years old now. So I might as well put it in my tires.

Then again, from my manual:


> A mixture of 0.4 kg of calcium chloride per liter of water (3.5 lb/gal), will not freeze solid above -45ï½° C (-50ï½° F).


Pretty hard to beat that performance.


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## HALH VT

The big difference with calcium chloride is that it is much heavier than w/w fluid. If it is installed properly, not slobbered over everything and is washed down afterward, it will not rot the rims. The most common cause of rims rotting from calcium chloride is not dealing with a small leak quickly. 

As in:
"Oh, it keeps getting soft, and I have to put air in it every couple of weeks."

"How long has it been doing that?"

"I dunno, maybe a couple years."

By which time the chloride has spread all the way around the inside of the rim, and eaten the valve hole out to about an inch in diameter. And the reason they want it fixed, is that the thin edge of the hole has finally cut the valve stem, and it leaks faster than they can add air. 

If you are really nervous about chloride, there is a beet juice product that doesn't freeze, is non-corrosive, and weighs more than w/w fluid. Another solution is cast iron wheel weights, They are a little more expensive, but also offer the option of easier removal when you don't need them. Some sort of bracket to hold weight on the rear blade is also a possibility. This would be removable weight, and might also make the blade cut better if needed. 

In any case you will need ballast in the rear any time you are using the loader, unless it just for lift and carry of lightweight items or material. With no rear weight, a bucket full of anything can make the tractor unstable, as you have already found out. Something that was not mentioned, is that without rear weight, the front axle is doing most of the work, while the rear is just along for a ride. This is a sure recipe for increased wear on front tires and (expensive) front axle components.


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## CARDOCTOR

I strapped a plastic 55 gal. drum on the back of my I.H. to counter weight my loader 

JR


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## mnglocker

Change your diet to primarly doughnuts, candy, bacon, and weight gain shakes. You won't need to add ballast after this diest for a month or so.


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## tawilson

CARDOCTOR;712077 said:


> I strapped a plastic 55 gal. drum on the back of my I.H. to counter weight my loader
> 
> JR


As did I when I had my 1300 Ford. Filled with sand in the winter.


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## Zephrant

Thanks HALH VT for the extra info on CaCL- that gives me enough confidence to give it a try.

mnglocker- didn't you forget to wash that all down with barley-pop? 

I'm also hoping to find a quick-hitch that I can put suitcase weights on too.


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## 04sd

Doesn't the 2210 have tubeless garden tractor size tires on the back? If so you'd need tubes for calcium and you really can't get that much weight because they don't hold enough. I'd recommend just getting some cast iron wheel weights instead or hanging something on the hitch.


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## Zephrant

I do suspect they are tubeless- but the JD manual clearly says I can fill them when they are tubeless, and I'll get about 90 pounds per tire. (10 gallons is 75% full according to a tire filling chart, and I can go to 90%).


> Using Liquid Weight in Tires:
> CAUTION: Avoid injury! Installing liquid ballast requires special equipment and training. Injury may occur from exploding tire. Have the job done by your John Deere dealer or a tire service store.
> 
> Cover rim completely with solution to avoid corrosion, but never more than 90 percent full. More solution would leave too little air space to absorb shocks. Damage to tire could occur.
> 
> NOTE: Use of alcohol as ballast is not recommended. Calcium chloride solution is heavier and more economical.
> 
> A solution of water and calcium chloride provides safe economical ballast, and will prevent freezing. If used properly, it will not damage tires, tubes, or rims.
> 
> A mixture of 0.4 kg of calcium chloride per liter of water (3.5 lb/gal), will not freeze solid above -45° C (-50° F).
> 
> Fill tubeless tires at least to valve stem level (minimum 75% full). Less solution would expose part of rim, possibly causing corrosion.
> 
> Tube-type tires may be filled to any level below 90%.


From the online JD 2210 manual.


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## 04sd

I grew up on a farm and all of the tractors had calcium in the rear tires. But, FWIW, I wouldn't put calcium in your tires if it was me. Sure you'll save a few bucks now but somewhere down the road you'll regret it. Like the first time you get a flat maybe.


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## Zephrant

Thanks for the input, but if I don't use CaCl and JD says not to use alcohol (which I suspect includes methanol, or windshield washer fluid), then that leaves beet juice. I've not tried to find it locally yet, but 20 gallons of that can't be very cost effective. We don't grow many beets around here.


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## HALH VT

And if you really want to live dangerously there is POWDERED LEAD. The links are to threads on Yesterday's tractors forum. Doesn't sound like any kind of fun to me.

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=589513

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=69418


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## 04sd

My vote was for cast iron weights and to forget anything inside the tires. On my 445 I use a weight box on the rear that I can hang the small JD suit case weights on. Each weight is 42 lbs, easy on/off, cost was $27 each a few years ago. I put 6 weights on with the blower hanging on the front.
On my father's JD 4010 compact with front loader, I built a 3 pt weight bracket that holds 4 100 lb weights from a farm tractor. He's got a quik-hitch on the 3 pt so you can back right up to the weights and pick them up without getting off of the tractor.
Cast iron, the non toxic, non corrosive, easy on/off solution


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## Jdeerekid

Another product to fill your tires with is Rim Guard. It is non toxic and weighs more than calcium and it will not rust your rims at all. It does not cost much more than the calcium either. I think the website is rimguard.biz. I would add the rimguard and possibly get cast weights for the rear also. I know I had tractor with tires filled but with no cast weights picking up a load of snow or dirt it was still very tipsy.


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## Jt13speed

Geez 4 pages and not a single picture of your new whip?? Common now you gotta show off your new ride.


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## Zephrant

Not much chance for pictures yet- frosty in the morning, dark at night.
I did pull it in to the garage today to take the tires off and get them ballasted.

Forgot to take a "before" picture:









Wet spots on the floor are from the Jeep, not the tractor.
And yep, I slipped in the jack stands after I took pictures.


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## JCStrasser

NICE RIG.

Now go push those snowbanks back!

John


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## Jt13speed

Definetly a nice tractor ya got there! wesport

"Now go push those snowbanks back!" How in world is he gonna do that with no back tires!!?? LOL


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## Zephrant

The dealer said the tires were extra, and that I could just drag the back of the tractor around until I could afford them...

More pictures in this thread


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## Jdeerekid

So what are you filling the tires with? Not a bad looking machine. You should be able to move alot of snow with it.


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## Zephrant

After much thought and research, I caved in and used the beet juice- $80 total for both tires from Less Swab, so not bad. Weight of each tire after the fill was 148 pounds. I forgot to weigh them pre-fill.


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## Zephrant

Here is a shot of the melted-down berms I was trying to deal with. This shot is standing in the switchback, looking up-hill. It was coming down this stretch in the Jeep that was tough- can only throw snow down-hill, had to keep up the speed to throw over the berms, but slow down enough to make the corner.










Of course at the time, it was a sheet of ice. This is after several weeks of melt-down.

At the peak, I measured 40# per square foot of water content on my deck.


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## Jdeerekid

Zephrant;720762 said:


> Here is a shot of the melted-down berms I was trying to deal with. This shot is standing in the switchback, looking up-hill. It was coming down this stretch in the Jeep that was tough- can only throw snow down-hill, had to keep up the speed to throw over the berms, but slow down enough to make the corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course at the time, it was a sheet of ice. This is after several weeks of melt-down.
> 
> At the peak, I measured 40# per square foot of water content on my deck.


If it were me I would be looking for a snowblower for that tractor. Then you would need to worry about the berms.


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## Zephrant

Yep, that's my plan... I'll be looking for a used blower this spring/summer, and buy a new one if I don't find what I want by fall.

This is my last year of plowing I hope.

I'll also be looking for a 3ph sander of some kind.


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