# Meyer Toggle Switch wiring help



## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

Hello all! I just picked up a used Meyer plow setup. I got it all mounted and am now running the wiring.

Here is a picture of the switches and the wiring coming off them.










I know that the green, red, and black on the end plug into the 3 coils on the pump. The other wire with the bare thread is white, but appears black. I know this connects to the small terminal on the solenoid. The solenoid also connects to battery and the other terminal to the pump. The pump is grounded to the battery (-) post.

On the switch panel, though, there is ON/OFF switch with cut wires. There is also another wire that is fused. I assume the fused wire goes to an ignition source inside. Also, what is the best method of wiring the auxiliary headlights and marker lights?

Thanks,
Mario


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Looks like that switch was just added. Nothing to do withthe plow controls. Marker lights and turns can go direct (no relays or such) headlights you can switch, (probably that switch you have there) add a relay to control your low and another for high


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## Fantastic (Dec 2, 2012)

From Smith Bros...

http://smithbrothersservices.com/sealed-beam-plow-light-wiring.html

I don't hook my plow lights up but have the same toggle switch set up (minus the center on off switch)

I've got an 04 GMC


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## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

Thanks... Got the wiring all figured out. My issue now is the pump itself.

New solenoid, new motor... had to take the pump apart. There was a ton of sludge inside that I'm still cleaning out. I just need to check the coils now. Once the bolt is removed, the coil itself just slides off, but what about the valve itself? That is just threaded onto the housing, right? I've cleaned the crud out of everything minus the that side.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

gordinho80;1671334 said:


> Thanks... Got the wiring all figured out. My issue now is the pump itself.
> 
> New solenoid, new motor... had to take the pump apart. There was a ton of sludge inside that I'm still cleaning out. I just need to check the coils now. Once the bolt is removed, the coil itself just slides off, but what about the valve itself? That is just threaded onto the housing, right? I've cleaned the crud out of everything minus the that side.


Yes valves just unscrew. B valve will have a check ball under it. If a coil does not slide off easily you have a swollen valve that will need replaced.


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## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

'B' and 'C' coils both came off very easily. 'A' coil was not easy to remove. I guess I should replace this coil.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

gordinho80;1671357 said:


> 'B' and 'C' coils both came off very easily. 'A' coil was not easy to remove. I guess I should replace this coil.


Odd, have never seen a swollen A valve. Normally it is the C valve that swells after a hard hit and poorly adjusted crossover.


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## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

This pump has been an enigma. I just hope to make it functional in time for use this year. Wife told me not to waste my time and money on a plow, I don't want to her to win this one.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

gordinho80;1671373 said:


> This pump has been an enigma. I just hope to make it functional in time for use this year. Wife told me not to waste my time and money on a plow, I don't want to her to win this one.


What is it doing? Or what isn't it doing?


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## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

I bought the setup used, unknown working condition, seller stated it was functional just over a year ago when it was removed from the vehicle it was on, a Bronco. Got it for a great price, so took my chances.

I fabricated the mounts for my vehicle, 1995 GMC Sierra. 

Noticed that the solenoid was missing from the setup, so picked up a new one.

Began wiring the pump, 4awg wire from battery to solenoid, solenoid to motor. 4awg wire from pump to (-) battery. Hooked up the switches on the outside to test before running and doing full install, solenoid clicks but motor not spinning. Took the old motor out and saw so much crud, it was scary.

Had rest of night to play with the wiring, so I started running the wires inside for the switches. Hooked fused wire to an ignition source, same as the stereo, grounded switches at a metal brace for the dash.

New motor, tested it on a bench clamp, spins up fine. Installed it and tested again. Pump raised about 1" with no load, but then stopped. The positive terminal on the motor was getting VERY hot... so hot that when i touched it, it melted my glove and burned my palm a little bit. My thinking here was that the motor was spinning properly because of a build up or clog inside the pump, causing it to work harder.

Took the pump off. Decided to take it apart and clean out all the old fluid, not just drain it. Glad I did, there was lots of sludge inside the ram arm housing. Got it all cleaned out, took off everything so far except the coil valves. B and C are weird, flat mount only on 2 sides, rest is rounded. A coil is small hex, so that should come out easily. As stated before, B and C coils come off very easily, I cleaned the valve shaft and the inside of the coils, just for good measure. The A was tough to get on, even with a decent cleaning of the shaft and coil, it was tough to get back on. Not impossible, but not a smooth slide on.

This is where I'm at...


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

How hard is it to turn pump shaft? Large socket is easiest way to get a valve out. What pump are you working on? E60, E47


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## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

With the motor out? The shaft turns very easily, actually.

E47


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

gordinho80;1671391 said:


> With the motor out? The shaft turns very easily, actually.
> 
> E47


Ok, was checking to see if pump was binding. Was your + cable premade or something you made? Heat could be from a poor connection whether at the crimped on connector or the motor stud itself.


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## gordinho80 (Feb 21, 2013)

I made it. I think crimped ends are fine. I might not have the best ground on the solenoid, though. So I'm going to upgrade that.


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