# Options for taking the sag out of the front end?



## GMCHD plower (Nov 27, 2009)

Hey guys, I was just wondering what the options for taking the sag out of the front end of an 09 GMC 2500HD ext cab are? other then cranking the t-bars.


----------



## old skool (Jan 7, 2008)

I used good ol Timbrens on my 97 Chevy K3500. Lots of money for what you get..BUT,... they work great!


----------



## GMCHD plower (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok thanks.


----------



## Deckscapes (Oct 24, 2006)

Try some Firestone Level-Rite air over shocks, they are awesome!


----------



## Schwinn68 (Jan 7, 2009)

why don't you want to crank the t-bars up? How much height are you looking to get?


----------



## GMCHD plower (Nov 27, 2009)

Schwinn68;927287 said:


> why don't you want to crank the t-bars up? How much height are you looking to get?


I'm not really looking to get height. Just once my parents get a plow put on I want to keep the truck from sagging alot.


----------



## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

what kinda blade are they putting on.


----------



## Schwinn68 (Jan 7, 2009)

I would just crank the bars a couple of turns. It will get the truck back up to height and if you only crank it a little it won't affect the ride quality.


----------



## GMCHD plower (Nov 27, 2009)

Triple L;927314 said:


> what kinda blade are they putting on.


Most likely a Fisher 8' straight blade with a snow deflector and cutting edge.


----------



## ChevKid03 (Dec 23, 2007)

I cranked the t-bars AND added the timbrens.... You can get the "buyers" brand for almost half the cost... My truck barely moved with a 9' X-blade and the Duramax weighing it down.


----------



## GMCHD plower (Nov 27, 2009)

Ok thanks, I want to stay away from doing anything to the t-bars (ive heard bad things ball joints ect) And my parents want to keep it for awhile cause once I get my license(2yrs) it will be mine. So I dont want to have to replace alot of ****.


----------



## jetfxr68 (Dec 27, 2009)

I have the same question as you. We recently purchased a new 09 3500 with a Boss poly V plow and this truck does not carry the boss plow well at all. The actual plow frame bottoms out when I go in and out of parking lots(dips) from the street. We have never had issues with our F350 trucks(same plow) so I asked the Chevy dealer about it. He said the truck torsion bars are turned up a much as we can go and I just have to learn to live with the bottoming out.
Any ideas?


----------



## Triple L (Nov 1, 2005)

Chev's sit way lower to begin with... if your T bars are turned up 6 turns or so pretty much living with it is your best option... I got a 3500 Dmax with a Boss 9.2 VXT and have never bottomed out the plow harness yet....


----------



## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

jetfxr68;928411 said:


> I have the same question as you. We recently purchased a new 09 3500 with a Boss poly V plow and this truck does not carry the boss plow well at all. The actual plow frame bottoms out when I go in and out of parking lots(dips) from the street. We have never had issues with our F350 trucks(same plow) so I asked the Chevy dealer about it. He said the truck torsion bars are turned up a much as we can go and I just have to learn to live with the bottoming out.
> Any ideas?


Slow down.I have a steel 9-2 with the Dmax on my 06 3500 and haven't bottomed out yet with 4 turns on my T bars.


----------



## contractor078 (Dec 23, 2009)

any of you guys try changing out the keys to the bars. I just ordered new keys to level the front end of my 08, 2500HD crew have been looking at them for a while. think this will be the best option to keep the factory ride.


----------



## RichG53 (Sep 16, 2008)

But some weight in the back .....500#


----------



## SuperdutyShane (Mar 6, 2009)

GMCHD plower;927383 said:


> Most likely a Fisher 8' straight blade with a snow deflector and cutting edge.


Lol, your going to put a cutting edge on too?!
Since your buying a new blade dont bother with the edge for a season. The factory edge should wear out first cause if you put a cutting edge on a new blade they are going to make contact at the exact same level.


----------



## WNYSeasonalSvs. (Nov 17, 2009)

I don't understand the whole "key" thing.
Instead of a bolt turning the torsion bar a "key" does. It dosen't do a damn thing to the actual torsion bar or ride quality. Unless your bolts are cranked all the way & in that case your have other issues to worry about.

Use the PROPER Ballast. Crank the T-bar bolts, install a set of Timbrens, get an alignment & your good to go.
Next step would be a lift kit.

2500hd w/ wideout. 1" sag w/ plow on. Still rides better than the other big two. NO bottoming out.


jetfxr68, Because you asked a dealer, thats why. He prob. ment "thats as much factory specs say you can go w/o needing an alignment."
No reason it should be bottoming out. You using the PROPER amount of ballast?


----------



## yamahartx (Dec 24, 2009)

Locall dealer said they go 4 turns without alignment and it will carry most plows. Get into larger plows then more turns and alignment.

I turned mine 3 just the other day. I put on new 285's which I always run and thought I would try turning them up since a plow is in my near future. No rubbing anymore. Plow is in the garage, never mounted...waiting wire harness.

Turning the torsion is a breeze, anyone can do it with. Just make sure you turn them equally.

Also, the dealer said the key lift made his truck ride rough and removed them right away. Buddy has 2" key lift on his '05 duramax as well and said it's rough, but he also went with low profile tires at the same time. (trucks for sitting in the garage washed, will never see work, snow definately never a trailer in its life just wax and shine..unlike mine..haha!)

By the way 3 turns made the ride better IMO. Leveled it out also.

I do plan on going 4 turns and adding a rear lift to get back to stock stance. (just like the look) Also, I will have the local shop check the alignment because I put miles on. I will definately post the outcome.


----------



## WNYSeasonalSvs. (Nov 17, 2009)

yamahartx;929417 said:


> Locall dealer said they go 4 turns without alignment and it will carry most plows. Get into larger plows then more turns and alignment.


Yep 4 turns is about all you can do w/o an alignment.



yamahartx;929417 said:


> Also, the dealer said the key lift made his truck ride rough and removed them right away.


Duh, your dealer is a moron. Replacing the keys do the EXACT same thing as cranking the bolts. It puts more torsion on the torsion bars. The ONLY reason to replace a 
"key" is if your bolts are turned in all the way & you want more.
A torsion bar is basically a spring in a bar form. More force on the spring, larger spring, stiffer = rougher ride. Dosen't make ANY difference weather the resistance is applied by turning the bolt or replacing the key.
Bigger key = less turns of the bolt to acquire the same torsion. 
Smaller key = more turns of the bolt.

Why is this so hard for people to understand?


----------



## old skool (Jan 7, 2008)

97 Chevy single wheel 3500...4 turns on the bars, Timbrens, and new BFG's over a year and a half ago ( no alignment)... have over 20,000 miles since, and tires still look good. Drops a little over an inch when lifting my 8.2 Boss V. Rides very good.


----------



## ChevKid03 (Dec 23, 2007)

Like I said... crank the t-bars a few turns.... add the timbrens and be done with it... If you don't want to touch the t-bars, you don't belong putting a plow on the truck. The ball joints aren't going to go any faster or slower because of the t-bars being turned a tiny bit... they will however go quicker by hanging a plow off of the front end. Regardless, they are a wearable item that will (some day) need to be replaced.


----------



## SullivanSeptic (Nov 30, 2008)

Torsion keys and a few cranks of the T-bars and your golden. I have an 8.6 Western with a duramax and mine squats almost 1 inch. Not bad for a REALLY heavy front end. The truck looks better because it is leveled out and it rides like stock.


----------



## pushinsno (Oct 7, 2009)

well im rollin a c-8 meyers on a 02 chevy avalanche 2500 with a 8.1 and put 600 pounds of tube sand in the rear cargo area and got no sag whatso ever in the front.


----------



## larold83 (Jan 1, 2009)

i cranked the t bars up all the way on my old work plow truck thats a 03 and no problems tires were great


----------



## emerson (Dec 29, 2009)

The bad ride from overcranked t-bars comes from the upper a arm hitting the lower bumpstop when the suspension flexs. If you crank your bars to keep the front end at the same level as before the added weight of a plow, the ride shouldn't change. When the bars are cranked to raise the front end too much the shocks can also not be long enough so you need extended shock mounts or aftermarket shocks. Using different keys just allows the bars to be cranked farther up, but don't correct the ride issues and bad balljoint angles. Google cognito leveling kit.


WNYSeasonalSvs.;929445 said:


> Yep 4 turns is about all you can do w/o an alignment.
> 
> Duh, your dealer is a moron. Replacing the keys do the EXACT same thing as cranking the bolts. It puts more torsion on the torsion bars. The ONLY reason to replace a
> "key" is if your bolts are turned in all the way & you want more.
> ...


----------



## SullivanSeptic (Nov 30, 2008)

Go to www.dieselplace.com. Lots of info about lift kits and front end suspension for chevy's. Cognito is one of the best. I will be going with a 4" non torsion bar drop lift in the summer.


----------

