# 1967-1972 Chevy Plow Trucks (Advice for my '72)



## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

I recently bought the pictured '72 Chevy 4x4 1/2-ton. The previous owner told me it was a plow truck before he bought it. The extra structure tied under the front of the frame (see pictures) must be left over from its plowing days. I think the '73-'80 and '81-'87 pickup frames are very similar, but the grill is flatter than my '72 so I may need a little more clearance. Anyway, none of the plow manufactures I've looked at list plows for '67-'72s. What are the best plow options for this truck (it is for my personal use and I want to minimize fabrication)?


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## randomb0b123 (Jul 14, 2010)

subscribed


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## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

*Update*

Here is an update on my project (two years later--time flies):

This spring I bought a 1991-1995 (based on the two-piece die cast pump) 8' Unimount Pro.
I contacted Western, and they only made conventional mounts (no Unimount and no Ultramount) for these trucks.
After some measuring, I found the two differences between 1981-1991 Chevy pickup frames and my 1972 are the front frame horns and 2" less between the axle centerline and front spring perch on my 1972.
Since I'm a do-it-yourselfer with access to nothing more than a 4-1/2" angle grinder and a 110V welder (resulted in lots of hours to make the mods), I decided to put my effort into truck side Ultramounts rather than Unimounts to provision for a future upgrade. I cut off the 2"x2"x3/8" angle iron front tow hook mounts and grafted in 3"x3"x3/8" angle iron to utilize my 1972 factory tow hook holes (these turned out very nice). Due to the extra 2" I tied the kicker brackets in under the bump stop brackets rather than in front of them (okay for now, but I may redo this later). 
I agree with the general consensus on this board that the Unimount to Ultramount adapter moves the plow out objectionally far from the truck, but I really like the truck side Ultramounts on the truck in the off season (better looking and good ground clearance).
I upgraded the original 40-someting amp externally regulated alternator to a 1981 vintage 63 amp internally regulated alternator, but I have a 90-something amp internally regulated alternator off a 1985 Caprice if I need more juice. I added a factory auxilliary battery tray to the driver's side, but haven't decided the best way to tie in a second battery (isolated via a diode isolator or tied in parallel to the main battery). 
I have a factory steering box frame brace but have not installed it yet.
I added a leaf to the factory front two leaf setup.
I put 600lb of sandbags in the bed behind the rear wheels.
Before I get any heat for starting with a 1/2-ton instead of a 3/4-ton for an 8' plow, let me state my 1/2-ton has the same frame section modulus according to 1972 GM literature. All the 3/4-ton would offer is the third front leaf (I did this upgrade), 8-lug wheels (no benefit to a plow truck), bigger brakes (no benefit to a plow truck), and a full floating rear axle (no benefit to a plow truck). I prefer the 1/2-ton in the off season for my personal use. 
I hope to have the pump freshed up within the next week so I'll be done with the plow. 
This truck sat from 2002 until I bought it (pictures in my post above). I've been slowly fixing its mechanical issues and have driven it up and down my gravel driveway a few times but nothing more so I expect this winter to shake out more issues. 
Maybe after this winter's shakedown I can find a two-wheel drive body donor truck to get rid of my body issues...

And to answer the question of "WHY?" I love the '67-'72 Chevy trucks and need something to keep my driveway clear with the winters we have been having lately.

Below are two recent pictures. The old school aluminum topper is only on the truck for temporary storage. I'll be putting the headache rack back on along with two 4"x6" KC driving lights.

Please respond if you find this thread interesting, have suggestions, or have questions (even if you don't I'd like to hear your comments).


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## randomb0b123 (Jul 14, 2010)

automatic?


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## dieseld (Dec 30, 2005)

Sounds great. 1972 is my favorite also. Had a "3 on the tree" just after high school and loved it. Reverse stuck so I had to jump under it and pop it out after I backed up. Crazyness now that I think about it. Nothing like a 72 with a 4" lift and newer bench seat all cleaned up.


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## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

I have a 72 dump that i have been sitting on for years.That was when chevy made real trucks.The wife really hates it but i can"t seem to let it go.:laughing:It would make a nice plow truck but it is not four wheel. Keep up the good work


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## CS-LAWNSERVICE (Sep 3, 2011)

I love those 68-72 body styles have had several over the years but they have gotten so expensive in my area


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## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

randomb0b123;1305828 said:


> automatic?


Yes. Truck has a 350 engine, TH350 automatic, 3.08 gears, and factory clutch type posi in the rear.


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## CAT 245ME (Sep 10, 2006)

That's an excellent project you got there. Keep at it and over time you can have something to be proud of, truck would look nice with a mild suspension lift and 33's. The aftermarket is your friend.


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## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

CAT 245ME;1306345 said:


> That's an excellent project you got there. Keep at it and over time you can have something to be proud of, truck would look nice with a mild suspension lift and 33's. The aftermarket is your friend.


Yes, the current 30X9.50R15s look small. Maybe a 31X10.50R15 or 33X10.50R15? I'm thinking wider would be counterproductive for busting through the snow?


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## randomb0b123 (Jul 14, 2010)

yes you want skinnys for snow


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## CAT 245ME (Sep 10, 2006)

badpeanut;1306529 said:


> Yes, the current 30X9.50R15s look small. Maybe a 31X10.50R15 or 33X10.50R15? I'm thinking wider would be counterproductive for busting through the snow?


BFG does make a 33x10.50R15 tire in the A/T & M/T. I also think they make a 33x9.50R15 as well.

I had an 85 K10 plow truck three years ago with a 2.5" Superlift kit and 31" BFG MT's, old truck sat nice with the mild lift but had lot's of room for 33's or 285's.


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## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

My parts arrived so I finished the hose, filter, gasket, and fluid change. I've got new stickers coming, so I took the lift arm off to paint it so it would be ready for its new sticker. While cleaning it up, I found a crack on the driver side through the lift ram hole to the bottom of the lift arm (not much edge distance in this area). I welded it before proceeding. 

Is there any process for adjusting the lift chain slack? With the ram compressed and the plow on the ground I put the chain on in the tightest position I could (which still appears to give it a reasonable amount of slack).


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## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

Today I ordered a set of the Western 62425/62430 dolly wheels off evilbay $53.42 with shipping. Should make this plow easier to mount and dismount since I like to leave the Unimount to Ultramount adapter with the plow.


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## randomb0b123 (Jul 14, 2010)

chain adjustment can depend on terrain your plowing, in some cases the chain could be too short the way you have it set (plowing down a steep hill) and the plow will start to hang up and lift off the pavement because of not enough slack in the chain but i dont know if youd ever be in that situation where you use it. normally plowing flat-ish ground set the chain so it can raise all the way, if you end up needing to add slack, jump out and adjust, pretty simple


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## badpeanut (Aug 4, 2009)

Here is my lift chain slack with the plow on the floor and lift ram fully compressed.

Also put my new decals on.


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