# best year Chevy



## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

Just for S&Gs, whats you guys opinions as to what was the best Chevy truck, I only narrowed it down to vague groups by year/body style, it could be narrowed down a lot more.

1) 73-87 hard to break, cheap to fix. susceptible to rust
2) 88-99 still good driveline, galvy panels, better ride
3) 00-06 more motor, less rust, getting fancier
4) 07-08 jury's still out


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

1) 73-87: Always have, and always will own at least one. Classic styling. Can virtually buy parts at your local 7 Elevan, and can fix anything on them with a screwdriver.

2) 88-99: Nice body style. Durable for the most part. TBI/Vortecs easy to keep alive and reliable.

3) 00-06: Got fancier..but wont fix one along the road. Very nice driving/working trucks. Excellent drivetrains

4) 07-08: Body panels are paper thin. Excellent drivetrains though. Only time will tell...


The ultimate isn't on the list though. It'd be the 73-87 body style with an '04-up D-max or 8.1/Allison conversion done...which I'm working on.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

I will have to go 73-87. They had the soild front axle, and were built like sherman tanks. All you need for repairs were a screwdriver, pliers duct tape and zip ties. 

As far as the ultimate 73-87 goes, you left a few itmes off B&B. First of all I would keep the frame from the new HD as well and convert it to solid front axle. The new frames are so much bigger and stronger than the old ones. A nice fat D60 in the front and keep the full floater in the rear. Put the LMM Duramax and 6 speed Allison in there. Then cap it off with a nice 84 Body painted light blue. Put some nice stacks on and with a 9.2 Boss Power VXT That would be a bad ass truck right there


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

What can I say?

B&B there is a guy who sells on ebay that has done a show-quality looking conversion on one installing the Duramax, and sells copies of CD's full of all his notes, photos, and conversion info for around $25... I was considering buying a copy just for S&Gs.....


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## Duncan90si (Feb 16, 2007)

73-87 Good all around ineexpensive trucks. I really wanna get one soon to turn into a muddin truck.
88-99 I own 2 of them, and love them. 
00-06 I love the 01 and 02 Chevy HDs with the raised hoods. <- Great looking trucks. Any year Dmax or Allison gets a thumbs up from me.
07-08 The GMCs aren't quite as Fugly as the Chevys. Its gonna take a loooooong time for me to stomach the looks. Drivetrains seem to be still solid.


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

Seems like I agree with all you guys. I like the raised hood 01-02 look also, but the only one I'd buy would be a Dmax, and those weren't the best years for Dmax. I also like the older ones the best, because of the looks and the economics. Speaking of economics, if money were no object I'd build a crewcab dually (or srw) 4wd with a Dmax and Alli combo, using an 87 nose. Maybe 89 nose, I don't know, I had one on an 81 and it looked cool but those little lights suck when they're high up off the ground. (no offense Derek).
All said, the Dmax would be cool but cost prohibitive and more likely to be overly sensitive. Still have to go with the smallblock. I'd just feel more secure when I'm whipping the snot out of it at 3:am that there isn't much to go wrong. And if it dies on the road I can pop the hood and fix it with whatever is in my glovebox.


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## Clapper&Company (Jan 4, 2005)

I agree with evey one.

But the 87-99b are still tanks and EZ to work on.

"But then again I did buy a ford lol


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## deere615 (Jun 1, 2007)

1) 73-87 Never owned one and probably never will but I hear they are great with a solid fron axle!
2) 88-99 I have always liked them, my dad owns a 98 and it rides very nice
3) 00-06 I have an 03 I love this body style, I love the look of the fender flares and raised hoods. Very nice and good working trucks in my opinion.
4) 07-08 I would like to own one I like the new headlights etc, but I am still trying to get used to the new style...

As long as its a chevy its good with mewesport!


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## RBRONKEMA GHTFD (Dec 17, 2006)

I owned a 02 hd silverado and loved the look of it with the raised hood and the fender flares. I know own a 04 gmc duramax allison combo, and love it. Although I liked the look of the 02 chevys I didn't like what they did in 03 with the headlights. Thats why I bought the gmc i own now.


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## ABES (Jun 10, 2007)

73-87 Hands down. Hopefully I will be buying one this summer and turning it into a good off road rig.


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## mayhem (Aug 25, 2006)

73-87 are indestructable...unless you live where thye salt the roads...then they'll dissolve right out from under you. My 85 was a brute, but it finally returned to the earth.

Never was too crazy about the 88-99 models...the styling just never caught on with me. Early models seemed to have bad front end problems, but the later models were pretty good.

I find the 01-02 powerdome hooded HD's to be the best looking trucks around. 

07+ are slowly growing on me...verrrrrry sloooooowwwwwwllllllyyyy. I bet they'd look nice as a slammed hot rod truck though, the square look works well there.


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## Newdude (Dec 4, 2006)

B&B;546613 said:


> 1) 73-87: Always have, and always will own at least one. Classic styling. Can virtually buy parts at your local 7 Elevan, and can fix anything on them with a screwdriver.
> 
> 2) 88-99: Nice body style. Durable for the most part. TBI/Vortecs easy to keep alive and reliable.
> 
> ...


now thats a conversion i can not wat to see.


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## ABES (Jun 10, 2007)

B&B;546613 said:


> The ultimate isn't on the list though. It'd be the 73-87 body style with an '04-up D-max or 8.1/Allison conversion done...which I'm working on.


We better see pics when that truck is done B&B


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## kashman (Jan 13, 2004)

well my 93 2 wheel drive has 220,000. cant kill it 5.0 
95 4-4 160,000. plows like a champ cant kill the 5.7 0000000000000rust on them both
but i do have 2 fords also


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

derekbroerse;546648 said:


> What can I say?
> 
> B&B there is a guy who sells on ebay that has done a show-quality looking conversion on one installing the Duramax, and sells copies of CD's full of all his notes, photos, and conversion info for around $25... I was considering buying a copy just for S&Gs.....


I've seen a copy of his CD before Derek. It's pretty good for someone like a DIY doing their first transplant...fairly simplified. He wastes a bit too much disk covering things that anyone thats doing a project like this should already know. Makes a big deal out of removing the PassLock from the ECM and setting up the fuel system. The wiring isn't as tough as he makes it out to be either. Their not the hard parts of the swap...the worst parts is getting the intercooler and plumbing to fit in the shallow confinements of the 73-87 core support and making floor clearance for the Allison. Takes a 2" body lift or floor pan surgery to gain the necessary clearance for the trans.


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## heather lawn spray (Mar 11, 2003)

B&B;546613 said:


> 1) 73-87: Always have, and always will own at least one. Classic styling. Can virtually buy parts at your local 7 Elevan, and can fix anything on them with a screwdriver.
> 
> 2) 88-99: Nice body style. Durable for the most part. TBI/Vortecs easy to keep alive and reliable.
> 
> ...


Keep us posted on how that ^ little combo comes out


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

heather lawn spray;547245 said:


> Keep us posted on how that ^ little combo comes out


Indeed I will..:salute:


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

B&B;546613 said:


> 1) 73-87: Always have, and always will own at least one. Classic styling. Can virtually buy parts at your local 7 Elevan, and can fix anything on them with a screwdriver.


Kind off like a Meyer Snowplow.


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## yancy (Aug 29, 2005)

73-87 we owned too many to count still own one that plows easy to work on!
88-99 we have owned 6 great trucks would buy one again in a second
00-06 own one now it has had its problems (computer, security system, gauges) love the look but I feel that things started to get cheaper but love the interior and DMAX!
07-08 look horrible! ride nice but will take a long time to own one


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

basher;547251 said:


> Kind of like a Meyer Snowplow.


 In many retrospects yes, except way more dependable.


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## Niteman9 (Jan 6, 2007)

Not on the list 67-72 those were the best.


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## Yaz (Apr 13, 2005)

The old 73-87 trucks were nice then, but you have to admit the newer trucks are better.

Pro's 
Nice to look at when you see one in perfect shape now.
Easy to work on
Cheaper then. Not now!


Con's
No ext cab, couldn't recline the seat back far enough.
Breaks didn't last that long
Rust
Front suspension road like crap bounced front to back even on the highway.
Plows were much harder to install/remove and worked slower with hydraulics.
No leather
No Onstar
No Airbags
No Anti locks
No power door locks, remember frozen locks?
I still like to own a restored one!


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Yaz;547372 said:


> The old 73-87 trucks were nice then, but you have to admit the newer trucks are better.
> 
> Pro's
> Nice to look at when you see one in perfect shape now.
> Easy to work on


 100% agree Yaz.. simplicity at its finest.



Yaz;547372 said:


> Con's
> No ext cab, couldn't recline the seat back far enough.
> No leather
> No Onstar
> ...


Yes the short cabs are a little rough when your over 6 ft tall. When I restored my '87 I was one sawzall blade away from doing an extended cab conversion on it to add additinal seat room. Just hated to cut it up as the cab sheet metal was nearly perfect, virtually no rust. Not an easy thing to find on a 20 year old truck.

Mine doesn't have leather, Onstar, airbags or anti locks...and boy am I glad, one of the reasons I like the old stuff so much.

It does however have PW, PL, remote start, keyless entry, A/C, tilt wheel, delay wipers, and power seats...so comfort and convenience isn't totally lost. 

Wonder how the paper thin sheet metal trucks of today are going to hold up to the dreaded rust monster after 20 years...


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

One thing that's keeping me from getting another pre-87 for a toy is the regular cab. I kind of need a backseat for the kidlets. Maybe I should get a Sub or a crewcab. Crewcabs are hard to find and I don't need another 1 ton.
Talk about cheap. I bought a 79 GMC 1/2 ton, a 78 K20 and 80 C10 parts trucks. $6500 and one year later I had a frame off restored truck, painted frame and 3/4 axles, new suspension, freshened up 350, swapped in an auto trans, new or or good used sheetmetal and new paint. 2 sets of tires (35s on 15x10 chrome 8 lugs for summer) and a Fisher plow. $6500 total investment. 
Plop down $6500 at the dealer and see how much it gets you.
No Onstar, but at the time it wasn't out yet and I didn't think I needed it. I have it now in two vehicles, haven't used it yet.


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## Yaz (Apr 13, 2005)

Detroitdan;547504 said:


> One thing that's keeping me from getting another pre-87 for a toy is the regular cab. I kind of need a backseat for the kidlets. Maybe I should get a Sub or a crewcab. Crewcabs are hard to find and I don't need another 1 ton.
> Talk about cheap. I bought a 79 GMC 1/2 ton, a 78 K20 and 80 C10 parts trucks. $6500 and one year later I had a frame off restored truck, painted frame and 3/4 axles, new suspension, freshened up 350, swapped in an auto trans, new or or good used sheetmetal and new paint. 2 sets of tires (35s on 15x10 chrome 8 lugs for summer) and a Fisher plow. $6500 total investment.
> Plop down $6500 at the dealer and see how much it gets you.
> No Onstar, but at the time it wasn't out yet and I didn't think I needed it. I have it now in two vehicles, haven't used it yet.


Detroitdan that's yours? wow. Thats very nice! There is guy in Hollis NH that restored a short bed blue/dark blue two tone 85 or 86, that is better than showroom. I walked around it like 5 times, wife thought I was nuts.you could eat off the frame and suspension parts. Only thing not stock was the BFG AT's. When the guy and his wife came out I complemented him on it. His wife said joking, we have to go before rain falls in it! he never drives it anymore! lol


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

Miss that truck, I saw it a couple years later and it was hammered and rusty. I added a lot of my own touches, like the suburban bumper. I hate step and tow, because if you're really going to tow anything, you are going to use a receiver. And a lifted truck you don't step up there anyway. So I always switched my trucks to Sub or Blazer bumpers. And I put the 1 ton style lights on the tailgate, even though it wasn't really a 1 ton. I used the 79 front sheetmetal but I put the 80s style chrome molding on just because I liked it. The interior was a plush red velour out of a Suburban. Wish I had more pics, the front had a real nice rare chrome Silverado grille. 
In the winter I took the body lift out and put stock steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps with 265/75s. I actually got more compliments in the winter with the steel wheels, it didn't look as *******, it looked more like a new 79 truck. Painted it white because at the time all the big Chevys in town were black.

Thanks for the kind words.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Detroitdan;547525 said:


> Miss that truck, I saw it a couple years later and it was hammered and rusty. I added a lot of my own touches, like the suburban bumper. I hate step and tow, because if you're really going to tow anything, you are going to use a receiver. And a lifted truck you don't step up there anyway. So I always switched my trucks to Sub or Blazer bumpers. And I put the 1 ton style lights on the tailgate, even though it wasn't really a 1 ton. I used the 79 front sheetmetal but I put the 80s style chrome molding on just because I liked it. The interior was a plush red velour out of a Suburban. Wish I had more pics, the front had a real nice rare chrome Silverado grille.
> In the winter I took the body lift out and put stock steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps with 265/75s. I actually got more compliments in the winter with the steel wheels, it didn't look as *******, it looked more like a new 79 truck. Painted it white because at the time all the big Chevys in town were black.
> 
> Thanks for the kind words.


Sweet ride. Shame you didn't/couldn't keep it.


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## YardMedic (Nov 29, 2006)

Detroitdan;547525 said:


> Miss that truck....


If I may ask, what were you able to sell it for, considering you had $6500 into it? Were you at least able to recover expenses?? That truck looked sweet -- wish I could have seen the Fisher on it!


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## ABES (Jun 10, 2007)

Detroit Dan that truck is beautiful. I would trade my 99 for a truck in that nice of shape anyday.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

This isn't the pic forum but it's appropriate enough for another pic since it covers 73-87. 
Only half decent pic I have of my '87 on the computer currently. This pic was from last spring while we were putting the plows away for the season but the truck is still identical today.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Looks like I lied..found one more:


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## ABES (Jun 10, 2007)

B&B That truck looks like its brand new. Its almost too nice to plow with


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

It does. I really prefer the look of that 88+ rear bumper on these trucks... takes away from that 'brick' look.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

derekbroerse;547616 said:


> It does. I really prefer the look of that 88+ rear bumper on these trucks... takes away from that 'brick' look.


Sure does Derek...we use the '88-up bumpers on all the pre-87 stuff to avoid the picnic table look. Really helps clean up the rear of them.


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

Sweet! I like that bumper too, especially how the black blends in with the black lower body.


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## Yaz (Apr 13, 2005)

B&B That's very nice...

You know I thought something was up with the bumper, At first I was thinking it just painted but know that you say it...I'm like, Duhhh

Hey you guys can defend a GM better than I can. Some guys over here are talking crap about them...http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=46135


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

YardMedic;547565 said:


> If I may ask, what were you able to sell it for, considering you had $6500 into it? Were you at least able to recover expenses?? That truck looked sweet -- wish I could have seen the Fisher on it!


Stupid me, I had an idea it wasn't worth near what I had spent, and compared to what else was selling in the area, I priced it at $4500 or best offer, thinking if I was lucky I'd get near $4000. 2 hours after putting it on the lawn a guy whipped in my driveway and gave me $2500 to hold it for a half hour, until he could get to the bank. Came back with the other $2000 right away, said he had borrowed $2500 to buy a rusty lifted k20 down the street from me. Was used to driving by watching me build mine (I did it outside, except the paint), and he wanted it bad. He finally decided to buy the one nearby, on his way to the bank my truck wasn't for sale, on his way back by it was. What a lucky break for him. I thought he was going to pee his pants.
So then I felt like I didn't ask enough, but what can you do? I did drive it for 3 years after finishing it, so I probably didn't lose too bad.
Funny how many people I've talked to who watched that truck come together in the yard on a busy road. From piles of multicolored old parts trucks to the one in the pic.


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

oops, how do I delete a duplicate post


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## Yaz (Apr 13, 2005)

Detroitdan;548725 said:


> oops, how do I delete a duplicate post


I edit it and type something else! lol


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

B&B;547576 said:


> Looks like I lied..found one more:


Hey just a question... the rubber trim you installed that wraps around below the taillights.. have you ever had problems with it lifting where it goes around the corner? The adhesive always seems to let go and the trim sticks out.... I'm guessing the molding is too stiff and stores too much 'spring' pressure? Maybe I should heat it with a heat gun as I'm installing it on those corners?


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

derekbroerse;550114 said:


> Hey just a question... the rubber trim you installed that wraps around below the taillights.. have you ever had problems with it lifting where it goes around the corner? The adhesive always seems to let go and the trim sticks out.... I'm guessing the molding is too stiff and stores too much 'spring' pressure? Maybe I should heat it with a heat gun as I'm installing it on those corners?


 I guess you've had, as well as seen the same problems as I have over the years when guys restore or paint these trucks and make the attempt to reinstall the trim molding, only to have it either not lay flat during installation around the corner under the tail light, or to force it into place only to have it come loose a few months later. I too wanted to run the Silverado molding but wouldn't unless I could come up with a solution to this molding issue.

There is a trick to Derek but it'll only work on the 88-up style Silverado molding like I used on my truck.

Because as you know the molding is rather wide and rigid and because of that it wont stick to anything that isn't flat. The problem stems from the fact that the bed side under the tail light isn't perfectly flat as it goes around the corner under the light. Most guys dont notice that until they attempt to install the molding and discover the bottom of the molding isn't touching the bedside since the sheet metal is curved as it goes down toward the ground. So they either leave the gap go, letting moisture get under the molding and loosen the tape, or they force it into place but it only holds temporarily from the stress of the molding attempting to flatten itself back out.

. The trick is once you have the molding cut to proper length to fit between the wheel well and the end of the bed side is to then _cut the molding right under the center rib of the molding LENGTHWISE_ - cutting the molding into two separate pieces, a top half and a bottom half. This of course makes the molding much narrower and allows you to get the molding to lay down on the contour. Once both halves are on and butted together, it's completely undetectable that you even cut it lengthwise. If you do one this way you'll be surprised at how much the bottom piece actually grows in length in comparison to the top one since the bottom one has a smaller radius to travel around. You actually have to trim the bottom section to length AGAIN after sticking it down it grows that much, and shows you how much the difference in radius is in that little bit of space under the tail light that most guys miss.

And before anybody ask's.....yes, I am a perfectionist.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

B&B;550143 said:


> I guess you've had, as well as seen the same problems as I have over the years when guys restore or paint these trucks and make the attempt to reinstall the trim molding, only to have it either not lay flat during installation around the corner under the tail light, or to force it into place only to have it come loose a few months later. I too wanted to run the Silverado molding but wouldn't unless I could come up with a solution to this molding issue.
> 
> There is a trick to Derek but it'll only work on the 88-up style Silverado molding like I used on my truck.
> 
> ...


Ahh I knew you'd have a trick for it. I haven't done it yet but I've seen it on other trucks hanging and looking crappy. We'll see if I get far enough to install trim this year 

Thx.


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

that's clever. I would have thought it was a corner piece. On mine I used standard Silverado chrome trim bought in a roll, but for the corners I went to the dealer and bought the rigid metal pieces that bolt on. I was warned about trying to make the turn with the trim. I would assume the black trim had seperate bolt on corner pieces too. But that lengthwise cut idea is the balls. Wouldn't have worked on my chrome though, or at least you would have been able to see it.
You can actually see it pretty good on the photo of my truck. Not always as noticeable, the light was catching it just right, but it's aluminum not plastic so it is going to be visible. If you look at a factory 80s truck that's how they look.


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## derekbroerse (Mar 6, 2004)

Detroitdan;550187 said:


> that's clever. I would have thought it was a corner piece. On mine I used standard Silverado chrome trim bought in a roll, but for the corners I went to the dealer and bought the rigid metal pieces that bolt on. I was warned about trying to make the turn with the trim. I would assume the black trim had seperate bolt on corner pieces too. But that lengthwise cut idea is the balls. Wouldn't have worked on my chrome though, or at least you would have been able to see it.
> You can actually see it pretty good on the photo of my truck. Not always as noticeable, the light was catching it just right, but it's aluminum not plastic so it is going to be visible. If you look at a factory 80s truck that's how they look.


Probably even if you cut the chromed plastic it wouldn't be that noticable over 5 feet away... its more just that WE (the owners) would know. I'm using the black 88+ trim myself anyways...


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Detroitdan;550187 said:


> I would assume the black trim had separate bolt on corner pieces too..


Your correct, they did have the separate bolt on piece for the black Silverado trim as well Dan, but the later Silverado style body trim was only used on the 88-91 OBS Subs and Blazers, never on a pickup of that body style so they don't fit the bedsides very well at all, even though the curve under the tail light looks the same between the Sub/Blazer and the pick up's. That's why I didn't use them.



Detroitdan;550187 said:


> Wouldn't have worked on my chrome though, or at least you would have been able to see it.


Right, that's why I mentioned about this "trick" only working with the later style trim, can't cut the old style chrome Silverado molding and make it undetectable, I already tried.


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