# knowledgeable 6.0l guys



## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

at a dealer,

drove an 04. f550 75Kmi a 7 out of 10 barely any rust even on the frame and leaves. It needs either an egr cooler or headgaskets. The ect and eot temps stayed within spec, but when it hit full boost, 33 psi, it lost power and started blowing white smoke... First instinct is to run. second thought is damn that truck is in really great shape minus the motor which is about to get rebuilt... how long does this fix last? and if I get it with all new parts what are the chances of keeping it running well. dumping the ford gold for ec-1. 
I would say installing parts like bulletproof egr and such is possible, and If it is neccessary I may be able to talk the dealer into installing them..
Need some opinions and reasons. I will obviously be ignoring those of us who arent knowledgeable on the subject.


I want experience stories.


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## trickynicky17 (Feb 12, 2009)

that's a bad egr cooler my friends 06 did the exact same thing last winter i have not had this problem yet thank god. If there are no emissions checks in your state just delete the cooler all together swap out the ford coolant like you said for cat coolant or a good elc coolant and buy a coolant filter 129 bucks well spent.Also when doing all this you might want to replace the oil cooler too because that ford coolant can get in there and plug that up too just to be safe.


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

so far so good with mine. picked it up ~2 months ago now. i love towing with it which is the reason i got a bigger truck. from what i understand about the 6.0 the main reason it is problematic is b/c the engine was designed for a higher cetane rating b/c that was what they were told to do from the Gov. well the gov never raised the cetane and the motor went into production. i started using the ford cetane booster as per my mechanic and i think the truck runs better... it could all be in my head though ;-)

oh and like nicky said get rid of the gold coolant. that was the first thing i checked on my truck and i had the green stuff when i bought it ;-)

i got mine b/c it was a good deal and even if i need to do a couple k worth of work to it - it still was in better shape then any 7.3 i could find. YMMV. 

good luck.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Good to hear. They are putting a 12/12k warranty on it. so that takes alot of worry out of my mind.

People want way to much money for the low mile 7.3l.
One guy wants 25,500 for an 02 with 23k on it... and it looks like it has seen its day. "yeah its alot of money, you will never find another one of these 7.3's with low miles like this. Those 6.0's are nothing but junk." I think this economy is pulling all the crazies out of the woodwork.


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

Yeah I got a 3 year or 30k powertrain warranty on mine which was another reason I went for it. Also keep in mind if you are financing it vehicles over 6a years old are not financeable. Mine was allowed to be financed bc of the warranty.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

its through a credit union i use. its already been approved just waiting on the p&s.
a 3/30? through the dealer or aftermarket?


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

ddb maine;1378634 said:


> its through a credit union i use. its already been approved just waiting on the p&s.
> a 3/30? through the dealer or aftermarket?


financing was the hardest thing for me buying mine.

Ford motor company warranty.  yeah that covers me to 100k, so i am doing some basic stuff to my truck through my mechanic and the major stuff it will go to the dealer for.

the only thing i am going to do - i just bought a mag-hi-tech trans pan for it and will be replacing all the hoses on the truck in the next few weeks.


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## drp (Oct 12, 2009)

33 PSI is 10 PSI higher than min boost and 6 PSI over max boost. If it has been boosting to this level the turbo vanes are most likely stuck and the pressure may have stretched the TTY head bolts. This would account for the white smoke. This equals blown head gaskets. Motor not blown does not need rebuild only replace the gaskets and fix the turbo vanes(clean the turbo)


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## trickynicky17 (Feb 12, 2009)

that's awesome there giving you a warranty, i was in the same boat as you lots of people i know had 7.3's and that's what i had my heart set on but could not find a good on so i found my 6.0 and i will never go back.


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## trickynicky17 (Feb 12, 2009)

trickynicky17;1378745 said:


> that's awesome there giving you a warranty, i was in the same boat as you lots of people i know had 7.3's and that's what i had my heart set on one but could not find a good on so i found my 6.0 and i will never go back. Once you drive it you will see the difference.


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## wewille (Jan 20, 2009)

pm sent. Bullet proof products are awesome. I gave you my number in pm. feel free to call. Also I saw your pm before seeing this...


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

drp;1378734 said:


> 33 PSI is 10 PSI higher than min boost and 6 PSI over max boost. If it has been boosting to this level the turbo vanes are most likely stuck and the pressure may have stretched the TTY head bolts. This would account for the white smoke. This equals blown head gaskets. Motor not blown does not need rebuild only replace the gaskets and fix the turbo vanes(clean the turbo)


id have to agree with this, usually the EGR cooler goes when the oil cooler gets pluged, I would get a scan guage 2 to moniter the EOT and the ECT as well as the FICM voltage. or you can go to the edge insight monitor and add fuel preasure and EGTs to it.

start with flushing the cooling system with restore and restore plus, a cummins dealer (a real one not a dodge dealer) should have it. after its clean flush with ~40 gal of distilled water, get a CAT EC1 compliant coolant (NOT precharged) and get a filter, i got mine from dieselsite for like $100, well worth it

get the turbo cleaned, would probably want to install ARP studs over the stockers, preasure test the EGR (the 03/04 "round" oil cooler is actually better then the 05-07) new ford oil cooler, there is an upgraded blue fuel preasure spring you should upgrade in the regulator. only use RACOR filters for fuel and oil, fuel additive every tank, syn oil is prefered (i run rotella 540) and if you run 4 oz of REV x every other change it will keep the injectors happy. deleteing the cat would also help the truck, a lot of the people run straight pipes, but im cutting mine off with a friggin sawzall once i get a chance cause its to friggin loud.

as said, people want stupid priceson 7.3s.once you get used to the fuel economy and power of a 6.0 you wont want to go back


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

I have a sgII and the ect and wot stayed within 15* even under heavy load on hill. I ran it for 30-40 min on the highway. the first 20 min was within 2*, 30 min - 8* and the remainder was between 10*-15*.

Is there a tsb regarding the oil cooler- Egr cooler failure?


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

mustangman02232;1379752 said:


> id have to agree with this, usually the EGR cooler goes when the oil cooler gets pluged, I would get a* scan guage 2 to moniter the EOT and the ECT as well as the FICM voltage*. or you can go to the edge insight monitor and add fuel preasure and EGTs to it.


hey guys not trying to hyjack the thread. but do you know how to do that easliy. i have a SG2 and i am trying to get those setup and their directions $uck


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## drp (Oct 12, 2009)

Mustang your post is right on.


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

hit the bottom right button and scroll through till it pops up to "X-guage". then go to edit X guage and enter codes for what you want, theres more of these on the net but here is a few

FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48)
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064010000000
NAM: FMP

VGT Duty Cycle (%)
TXD: 07E022096D
RXF: 04620509066D
RXD: 3010
MTH: 00647FFF0000
NAM: VGT

Engine Oil Temp.
TXD: 07E0221310
RXF: 046245130610
RXD: 3010
MTH: 00090005F05F ( Use this if the EOT is not reading right 00090005FFD8)
NAM: EOT

Trans. Fluid Temp.
TXD: 07E1221674
RXF: 046205160674
RXD: 3010
MTH:000100080000
NAM: TFT


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

Mustang - i owe you a cup of coffee!!!


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

its 7:45 pm.....deff time for beer over coffee 

make sure you double and triple check the codes when you enter them, i have 6 stored in mine, i think 2 of them worked first shot :doh:


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

I havnt read much about head studs in terms of install. Can they be installed without removing the heads? replace the studs one at a time? And this requires much of the top side of the engine to be disassembled?


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## trickynicky17 (Feb 12, 2009)

you can change out the studs with the cab on but its a lot of work your gonna have to take the whole top half of the motor off intake, turbo, intake manifold, egr cooler, valve covers, the ficm, the list goes on and your gonna have to put dimples in the firewall to get the back studs in and that's if the gaskets are still good.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Alright. truck requires Egr cooler. The dealer is willing to foot labor costs, provided I supply materials to do new head gaskets, arp studs, BPD oil cooler and BPD egr cooler. I'm looking at 4k in parts. if I can get the truck for 20,500. I'm into it for 25k. The truck is quite feasibly done. routine maintenance and I'll be smiling at 240K mi right? need some opinions. too much? It seems reasonable. I am certainly not getting a deal but in this milage range the total cost for this truck is putting me right in-line with all these other stockers. It would seem like a good deal...


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

if its under warrent for more then a month i would take it home for a few nights and do the following

I would hunt around looking for the cummins fleet guard Restore and restore plus (or ford VC9), keep flushing the cooling system with tap water until it is clear, make sure the Tstat opens or remove, also turn the heat on. add gallon of restore once its clear, drive truck for 60-90 minutes, flush again, add restore plus/VC9, drive for another 60-90 minutes, flush till it is clean, throw a gallon or two in the system to drive for 1 or 2 days, gold stuff, to keep the warrenty happy and so the water doesnt create rust in the iron block, give it a few days so any remaining loose debri gets plugged in the old oil cooler, then have them do the work, they will refill with gold, once you get it back get about 35 gallons of distilled water and start flushing till it comes out clean again. while its in the shop you need to hunt around for CAT EC1 concentrated coolant. dont get the precharged and dont get the pre diluted stuff. before doing your final fill T off the correct lines and install a coolant filter (i got mine at dieselsite.com) and change the filters at 300 miles, 500 miles, and 1000 miles and it should only need it once a year after that. cut the first one open, you will be surprised.

if you do that the BPD oil cooler really isnt needed, but you will NEVER have to worry about it clogging again, but it is more exspensive. 

make sure you get the heads checked that they are flat by a machine shop, even new heads can be different. I would probably ditch the cat convertor as well, get the edge insight with the fuel and pyro, and talk to eric over at innovative diesel and tell him you want a nice mild ~40 HP tune with aggressive tow haul if your going to really work it (its a 550 so it only makes sence) with the EGR delete, maybe grab the "street" tune to (max towing 10,000 lbs but it sure is fun, i also plow on this tune) it will help mpg a little


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

They are going to do a full flush with vc9, certainly putting a ford oil cooler back in is a lot cheaper. I have heard techs say that the ford oil cooler is fine with a filter kit. and it makes sense. The truck is going to end up being 23,500 out the door. 

If I drop the head stud and gaskets, I know I can talk him down, I honestly dont know if I will ever chip the truck. It's possible I guess.

how does this sound, bpd egr cooler, coolant filter kit, flush with vc9, ford oil cooler, scrap the head gaskets and studs. I'm lookin at 2500 alone for that. Will it be reliable.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

I know every single time I start that truck though I am going to be thinking about how I didn't put the oil cooler in it. WTF....


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

mines been chipped with a 150 hp or 100 hp tune for the last 50k...some of it towing im on stock bolts, i would make sure it gets a new oil cooler, its allready apart as far as to do the egr, its an extra hour for the oil cooler and make sure you dump the gold stuff when its all done


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## tuna (Nov 2, 2002)

I just bought an `05 F250 6.0 in October ,I got it with 125k it now has 132k and runs fine.My plans are to do a flush and get the good Cat stuff in it ,also a blue spring and 6.4 banjo bolt upgrade and some kind of gauges maybe a SC II or edge.I also plan to put a coolant filter in.That should keep me going for a while,any thoughts?


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Update,
Bought the truck. next two weeks it will be in the shop geting set up and waiting for parts from BPD.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

tuna;1381243 said:


> I just bought an `05 F250 6.0 in October ,I got it with 125k it now has 132k and runs fine.My plans are to do a flush and get the good Cat stuff in it ,also a blue spring and 6.4 banjo bolt upgrade and some kind of gauges maybe a SC II or edge.I also plan to put a coolant filter in.That should keep me going for a while,any thoughts?


I hvae heard pros and cons about doing the flush. If you do it you run a very high risk of mobilizing alot of crap in the coolant system and it's going straight to the oil cooler. I'm having the system flushed before the old cooler is taken out. trap everything in it. New parts flush it with water, then refil. I "read" one guy had a new cooler put in, then flushed his system and his cooler was clogged within 1000 mi or something foolish. 
If you dont have a scan guage or the other one... mentioned somewhere on here, start there. monitor your ECT and EOT if on the highway... blah blah blah. I read about this motor for probably 1-2 hours a day, for atleast the last 6 months.

Powerstroke.org
even here, just type 6.0l and read them all they all have good info.
Mustangman has good info. there quite a few who have helped me with questions.
run an oasis, if the truck hasnt had any issues up to now, monitor your truck with a scanner and if all is good continue doing exactly what you are doing.


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## SVT F15O (Dec 18, 2011)

ddb maine;1380639 said:


> Alright. truck requires Egr cooler. The dealer is willing to foot labor costs, provided I supply materials to do new head gaskets, arp studs, BPD oil cooler and BPD egr cooler. I'm looking at 4k in parts. if I can get the truck for 20,500. I'm into it for 25k. The truck is quite feasibly done. routine maintenance and I'll be smiling at 240K mi right? need some opinions. too much? It seems reasonable. I am certainly not getting a deal but in this milage range the total cost for this truck is putting me right in-line with all these other stockers. It would seem like a good deal...





ddb maine;1381157 said:


> They are going to do a full flush with vc9, certainly putting a ford oil cooler back in is a lot cheaper. I have heard techs say that the ford oil cooler is fine with a filter kit. and it makes sense. The truck is going to end up being 23,500 out the door.
> 
> If I drop the head stud and gaskets, I know I can talk him down, I honestly dont know if I will ever chip the truck. It's possible I guess.
> 
> how does this sound, bpd egr cooler, coolant filter kit, flush with vc9, ford oil cooler, scrap the head gaskets and studs. I'm lookin at 2500 alone for that. Will it be reliable.





ddb maine;1381179 said:


> I know every single time I start that truck though I am going to be thinking about how I didn't put the oil cooler in it. WTF....


Where are you coming up with these prices on parts>??? You should be able to get the Bullerproof EGR cooler, a new Ford oil cooler, head gaskets, ARP studs, a coolant filter and all the miscellaneous gaskets, o-rings and filter for around $2500. 
You'll be fine for a new Ford oil cooler as long as you install the coolant filter and run good coolant.

If they are willing to do the labor, not doing new head gaskets and studs would be downright silly.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Im doing the bpd oil cooler kit as well. I have heard 50/50 about an OEM ford cooler. I read a few cases where people installed OEM coolers and had them clog again. I didn't read of anyone ever having a bpd oil cooler clog. That made that choice easy enough. 

That is where that price difference is.

3800.00 +/-

Lifetime warranty is pretty hard to beat.


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

i would still put a coolant filter on it.

if your planning on doing the oil cooler do the chemical flush, if not, just do the distilled water and refill with the ELC


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

whats the deal with the coolant filter install. Are you not able to clamp the hoses for some reason before cutting?


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## six4powerstroke (Aug 26, 2010)

well if your installing a coolant filter you might as well flush your system and replace fords gold crap with elc coolant. that way you wont have to clamp hoses with full coolant level


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

six4powerstroke;1387163 said:


> well if your installing a coolant filter you might as well flush your system and replace fords gold crap with elc coolant. that way you wont have to clamp hoses with full coolant level


I am having it all done at a dealer, coolant filter would be extra and the list of to do for them is long already and I have work lined up for it january 2nd.

So can I just clamp the hoses when I've got it back?


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## lotus6six (Dec 20, 2008)

Should prob start a new thread, but I have similar prob with my 2005 f250. Every once in a while acceleration hesitation coupled w/ tons of white smoke...then boost kicks in and all is fine. Maybe same prob?


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## ford6.9 (Aug 17, 2006)

If you're getting all that work done I think you'll have a heck of a truck. Those are all the problems with the 6.0's and after that I think its better than a 7.3.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

lotus6six;1387439 said:


> Should prob start a new thread, but I have similar prob with my 2005 f250. Every once in a while acceleration hesitation coupled w/ tons of white smoke...then boost kicks in and all is fine. Maybe same prob?


I dont think so. That sounds like an injector/ stuck turbo type thing, The egr problem, my understanding which may be incorrect, comes from the building boost pressure having a way into the coolant system. as your boost increases your coolant pressure should remain at a certain level, when the boost climbs and has access to the coolant the coolant pressure rises and PSSSSSSST down the intake and into the degas.

white smoke before boost, theres a million threads on other sites specific to the 6.0l



ford6.9;1387466 said:


> If you're getting all that work done I think you'll have a heck of a truck. Those are all the problems with the 6.0's and after that I think its better than a 7.3.


 I agree, I'm hoping for some reasonable mpg, not a concern, but when I tested it I got betwen .75mpg and 4mpg. Come to findout the e brake was hung up somewhere, so that explains a bit.
New rear pads and rotors, thank you very much.


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## six4powerstroke (Aug 26, 2010)

I had a problem causing white smoke at start up and upon take off from a dead stop usually just a puff or so and it ended up being my turbo oil seal gone bad causing oil to to get into exhaust when truck had no boost.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

six4powerstroke;1387658 said:


> I had a problem causing white smoke at start up and upon take off from a dead stop usually just a puff or so and it ended up being my turbo oil seal gone bad causing oil to to get into exhaust when truck had no boost.


Don't mean to go off track but - What is the difference in the 08 Rear Springs and the ones that were on your truck? Ride?

As for the 6.0, this is an excellent thread with a bunch of good info. I'm a big fan of it regardless of all the horror stories. I have 2 very close friends who run them stock (one stock with a mild SCT Tune) and neither has had an issue. One of them owns a landscaping company in Mass and has both an 06 Reg Cab Long Bed F350 and a 06 F350 Dump.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Leave it to a mainer with a big silver plow to just fanagle his way right through the dooryard. 

the 550 is going to be sweet. I agree on the 6.0 being nice. Driving the truck even with all the issues, it had so much more power than the 7.3's I've driven.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

And to answer my own question. I spoke to bob at dieselsite. In doing the install on the 6.0l there is a very minimal coolant loss. So no worries. It's all topside so cut it and turn the hoses up.
Make some money first and then the coolant filter goes in.


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## moremph (Dec 19, 2007)

You wont regret the work ya are doing, UNLESSSSSS the ford dealer does not send the heads out to be machined flat, If they just pull the heads off and put em back on then you have wasted your money. 

We do around 20 6.0 HG's a year and flatness is key!

Travis


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

+1 to making sure the heads are flat

i didnt see these posted in this thread, but here is my first coolant filter after 300 miles, the oil cooler, and just a small sample of what was inside of it


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

They had the heads off on friday, when I brought the CAT ELC coolant, they have a straightedge and said they cant get a .001" reading on them... " these things are flat".
I explained to them the importance and he said, If you want to pay someone to do it go for it, but according to our measurements they are flat. 

Ford's tolerance is apparently .002" over 4" and .006" total length?
That was their claim.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Theres a whole list of other items they are doing as well. Upgrade turbo oil pipe, upgraded egr baffle, new IPR, ICP? I think I don't have the sheet in front of me. new glow plug harnesses... they were a bit worn.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

They are using a brass scubbing pad to clean the heads. said " can only use materials softer than the heads, either plastic or brass."


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

Funniest thing about this whole thread and the claims about this engine is the one thing I have not had any problems with at all are the EGR or the turbo vanes sticking or the heads lifting, puking coolant etc. 

But hey, for $2500 or more plus labor, these things are awesome. 

I can spend $2500 on a 7.3 and have more power and probably better MPGs and more reliability with less ongoing maintenance than I could dream of on a 6.0. 

But by golly, they're the bomb.


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

dfd9 - i am not saying your wrong and if you can find a 7.3 i would do it over a 6.0, but i couldn't find a 7.3 that only needed $2500... most were beat to the ground and rusting out. So the engine could be strong but the rest of the truck was falling apart. 

so for what i spent i got a much nicer looking truck with low miles and yes it may need some work in the future but what truck won't. personally i will probably sell my truck and buy a new one in the next year or so when the warranty runs out.


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## SVT F15O (Dec 18, 2011)

dfd9;1393387 said:


> Funniest thing about this whole thread and the claims about this engine is the one thing I have not had any problems with at all are the EGR or the turbo vanes sticking or the heads lifting, puking coolant etc.
> 
> But hey, for $2500 or more plus labor, these things are awesome.
> 
> ...


Great post!  Now go away.


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

s. donato;1393391 said:


> dfd9 - i am not saying your wrong and if you can find a 7.3 i would do it over a 6.0, but i couldn't find a 7.3 that only needed $2500... most were beat to the ground and rusting out. So the engine could be strong but the rest of the truck was falling apart.
> 
> so for what i spent i got a much nicer looking truck with low miles and yes it may need some work in the future but what truck won't. personally i will probably sell my truck and buy a new one in the next year or so when the warranty runs out.


It took me close to 2 months to find a 7.3 that I was OK with purchasing. Needed an oil pan and that was it. '99 with 63K on it. Gorgeous truck and will work great for me, far longer than my '04 or '05 550's.



SVT F15O;1393392 said:


> Great post!  Now go away.


Truth hurt?

Tell me exactly where I was wrong in what I stated.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

dfd9;1393655 said:


> It took me close to 2 months to find a 7.3 that I was OK with purchasing. Needed an oil pan and that was it. '99 with 63K on it. Gorgeous truck and will work great for me, far longer than my '04 or '05 550's.
> 
> Truth hurt?
> 
> Tell me exactly where I was wrong in what I stated.


Not what you said. WHERE you said it. This thread is not for discussing the 7.3v6.0. I started this thread to try and gather some knowledge of the 6.0l specifically in one area, and up to this point in time did so sucessfully. If you have nothing constructive to add to this conversation would you please refrain from posting.

i have heard mixed opinions about dealers using straight edges to measure heads. i do know that this service manager is being as thorough as i am. is a straight esge not the proper way to test heads? the few machine shops willing to take them all said they would put a straight edge.on them and check them for me... their words.


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

if the cost isn't horrible i say send them out so you are not sorry down the road.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

s. donato;1393769 said:


> if the cost isn't horrible i say send them out so you are not sorry down the road.


Ok so I guess the next question to this is what is the cause of the warping of the heads? Is it the coolant being in the cylinders? or is it the regular heat and strain of the high compression ratio?


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

dfd9;1393387 said:


> Funniest thing about this whole thread and the claims about this engine is the one thing I have not had any problems with at all are the EGR or the turbo vanes sticking or the heads lifting, puking coolant etc.
> 
> But hey, for $2500 or more plus labor, these things are awesome.
> 
> ...


id really love to see how a 6.0 would go if they had put the different coolant in from the factory, but you cant buy a 6.0 any more new, so it doesnt matter.

i looked at a 00 7.3 for a friend the other day, had 100k, little bit of bubbleing around the fenders, probably an oil pan within the next year and a few minor things, guy told us 19k takes it home....he got really pissed at a 10k cash offer so we left.

your not getting more power or better mpg out of a 7.3 stock for stock or mod for mod, just not going to happen

part of the cost of owning a truck is maintence... i dont see how changing one extra filter for the coolant and adding a fuel additive (which should be done in a 7.3 as well) justifys a huge differance?

i have 95k on my 6.0 and i have all of $600 into it for the oil cooler and EGR delete, dont know where your getting $2500?


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## H&HPropertyMait (Oct 17, 2011)

White smoke, sounds like a head gasket... sounds like a 6 leaker. sounds like a waste of money.


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

ddb maine;1393760 said:


> Not what you said. WHERE you said it. This thread is not for discussing the 7.3v6.0. I started this thread to try and gather some knowledge of the 6.0l specifically in one area, and up to this point in time did so sucessfully. If you have nothing constructive to add to this conversation would you please refrain from posting.


Well then, this isn't FTE with a 6.0, 7.3, 6.4, 6.7 etc forum. And I was answering a question with a statement about the reliability of said engine compared to others. Maybe you haven't noticed, but threads go off topic anywhere from slightly to drastically in pretty much every thread, so lighten up.

As for helpfulness, I did post my experiences (some anyways) with all 3 of my 6.0s and the fact that out of the work you are having done to yours, none of that has been a problem for any of mine. My reliability issues have all had to do with injectors, FICM, starters, STC fittings or something with the HPOP. I have not had to spend any money on studs, coolant filters or EGR deletes or EGR coolers. Zero, zip, nada.

So there is a good chance that you can spend your $4K on upgrades and it will be no more reliable than mine that have none of those upgrades. Because those are only some of the problems, not even close to all of them.

Does that help?


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

the kingdom of nye?


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## six4powerstroke (Aug 26, 2010)

plowguy43, the 2008+ Superduty leaf springs are longer then 2005-07 which makes a better ride.


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## SnyCo (Nov 16, 2009)

great thread and good posts (by most of you).


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks, Should be picking the truck up today.


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## trickynicky17 (Feb 12, 2009)

good luck let us know how it turns out!!!


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## winged1dur (Feb 12, 2006)

ddb maine;1393947 said:


> the kingdom of nye?


I believe that is the kingdom known for having knights who say "eckee, eckee, eckee"


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

without further ado

http://www.plowsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107332&stc=1&d=1325715120


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

I'm bringing it back up saturday for a few little things, But I need to have them check the turbo. They pulled it apart and cleaned it and said all was a go, I'm hitting 40 psi now.
Its typically 28-35psi but under full throttle it went up to 40.5. Im quite certain thats a bit much even with the studs.


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

very nice looking truck  


good luck with it. Thumbs Up


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## drp (Oct 12, 2009)

nice looking unit. Your vanes are stuck the min boost should be 23 psi at WOT in third pulling hard, max of 27-28.


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

now i really want to get my boost gauge hooked up.


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## ddb maine (Dec 4, 2009)

drp;1403604 said:


> nice looking unit. Your vanes are stuck the min boost should be 23 psi at WOT in third pulling hard, max of 27-28.


Thanks.
I assume 40psi even with studs will cause damage?


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## drp (Oct 12, 2009)

don't know for sure but I would think so


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## dfd9 (Aug 18, 2010)

Since we're talking 6.0's, not only did I lose the HP oil pump that caused it to die, but after that it still wouldn't start after a night of plowing. So, they do some more looking and the IPR was sticking. 

Yep, ever so reliable.

Wish I had a bunch more of them so I could have more grey hair and higher BP.

But by golly, I'm not having any problems with head gaskets, puking or lifting heads.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

ddb maine;1403639 said:


> Thanks.
> I assume 40psi even with studs will cause damage?


Without a tune adding more fuel I'd say yes, with a tune you'd be fine.



dfd9 said:


> Since we're talking 6.0's, not only did I lose the HP oil pump that caused it to die, but after that it still wouldn't start after a night of plowing. So, they do some more looking and the IPR was sticking.
> 
> Yep, ever so reliable.
> 
> ...


Good to know you haven't had any of the common problems with the 6.0, sounds like yours was one of the good ones. Those other issues aren't that common:waving:


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## s. donato (Dec 9, 2010)

plowguy43;1404228 said:


> Good to know you haven't had any of the common problems with the 6.0, sounds like yours was one of the good ones. Those other issues aren't that common:waving:


could it be location related? ie the climate were he is may be different where you or I may be. or since it happened to a couple of his trucks maybe its driver related(sounds like he has guys driving them.) i am not poking him for his driving just could be an issue is all.


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## mustangman02232 (Mar 21, 2011)

dfd9;1404163 said:


> Since we're talking 6.0's, not only did I lose the HP oil pump that caused it to die, but after that it still wouldn't start after a night of plowing. So, they do some more looking and the IPR was sticking.
> 
> Yep, ever so reliable.
> 
> ...


When all else fails.... Atleast you get to say fu** you uncle Sam and get a tax write off


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