# Jeep question



## atvriderinmass

Hey all you Jeep guys, I want to trade my Ranger in next year for a Jeep and was wondering is there certain years that you can put the heavy plows on? I have the Fisher Homesteader and it's great but i can't back drag with it . I need a heavier plow. I've looked on Fisher e match and they recommend it for some jeeps and not others. What Jeeps years,makes or models would be best to put a heavy plow on?


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## theplowmeister

atvriderinmass;1173391 said:


> Hey all you Jeep guys, I want to trade my Ranger in next year for a Jeep and was wondering is there certain years that you can put the heavy plows on? I have the Fisher Homesteader and it's great but i can't back drag with it . I need a heavier plow. I've looked on Fisher e match and they recommend it for some jeeps and not others. What Jeeps years,makes or models would be best to put a heavy plow on?


How about a backdrag edge on your plow?
Snoway with down pressure will backdrag.

I dont think any jeep, according to DOT will take a heavy plow. you will need to beef up the plow mounting to frame and add air bags or air shocks for the plow weight, and a hefty amount of COUNTER weight (I use 200 to 400 depending on the plow)


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## atvriderinmass

theplowmeister;1173552 said:


> How about a backdrag edge on your plow?
> Snoway with down pressure will backdrag.
> 
> I dont think any jeep, according to DOT will take a heavy plow. you will need to beef up the plow mounting to frame and add air bags or air shocks for the plow weight, and a hefty amount of COUNTER weight (I use 200 to 400 depending on the plow)


You think i could put a backdrag edge on this light weight plow? Do you think the plow would work good with one on it cause its so light? Where could i get one? Don't think they make one for this plow. I was thinking about putting some weights on the plow but didnt want to mess anything up with the pistons.


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## sjwrangler

It depends on what you call HD? My Meyers plow weighs around 600#. Plowmeister's Boss is nearly 700#. How much heavier would you need? 
Plowmeister is much more up to date than me, but the earlier Jeeps can take heavier plows that the current models.


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## atvriderinmass

sjwrangler;1173704 said:


> It depends on what you call HD? My Meyers plow weighs around 600#. Plowmeister's Boss is nearly 700#. How much heavier would you need?
> Plowmeister is much more up to date than me, but the earlier Jeeps can take heavier plows that the current models.[/QUO
> 
> Well my homesteader is 270 and i would guess around 400 or 500lbs would back drag good. I'm wondering if i use timbens and air shocks in the front of my ranger would i beable to use a heavier plow. I looked at the FGAWR,RGAWR,GVWR on my ranger and they are all higher on my ranger than a jeep so i think it might be ok to do. What do you think? i wanted a steel plow cause you can push more snow and there is less chance of it breaking compared to the homesteader.


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## sjwrangler

I would imagine you might be able to put air shocks and timbrens on a Ranger, but who knows how well it will work. We know a heavier plow will work on Jeeps, and they are highly maneuverable. Jeeps are tough vehicles.


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## RangerDogg

I have a 05 ford ranger with a snowdogg 6'8" and it weighs almost 400.I have timbrens up front and put 600lbs in my bed and it plows great.I do reidential plowing with it.I live in lowell if you want send me pm and we can talk


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## KEC Maintaince

if you get a jeep try and get a Rubicon or a jeep that has the Dana 44 front and rear suspension mod already done. most jeeps come with the dana 30. yes you can plow with the 30 but not as strong as a 44 also you will need air shocks or air bags in a regular jeep. the Rubicon comes with 410 gearing and stiffer suspension. it will support the plow much better.


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## Ggg6

Forget the front Rubicon D44 it has the same GAWR as the D30 because most of it is D30 parts. The only thing D44 on the rubi front axle is the R&P and inner shaft splines. All else is the same parts as a D30. Axle tubes,inner c's, ball joints, u-joints, brakes, stub shafts, unit bearings,hubs, steering knuckles,,,all the same parts as a D30.


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## Mems

Ggg6;1180572 said:



> Forget the front Rubicon D44 it has the same GAWR as the D30 because most of it is D30 parts. The only thing D44 on the rubi front axle is the R&P and inner shaft splines. All else is the same parts as a D30. Axle tubes,inner c's, ball joints, u-joints, brakes, stub shafts, unit bearings,hubs, steering knuckles,,,all the same parts as a D30.


True. Just as a heads up though, I just redid all the ujoints and innards on my front driveshaft and the Rubicons have a slightly different ujoint and ball centering joint. I've never thought that this would be the case but it is.


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## KEC Maintaince

the Rubicon also has the air lockers and gearing. 
the d44 axles are beefer then the 30 are .
the 30 are similar to what the ford f150 used to run the 44 are similar to the old f250 rears. 
the suspension is the same. 
like i mentioned you can use the jeeps with out the 44 i just prefer to be have a beefier rear in the front and rear then the 30. seen many snapped rears from jeeps plowing with the 30 rears . yes user abuse is probley the main problem. i was told better to be safe then sorry.


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## ken643

I have the 2004 Rubicon and the Fisher dealer knew exactly what I could get away with and use. Installed timbren blocks and a fisher 6'9" minute mount. It comes with the plastic cutting edge, however i found that leaves a very slight film on the driveway. It is extremely quiet though. My dealer has a company making the steel cutting edge for the plow. I had that installed it works awesome, and back drags with no issues. Check mine out. I love it!


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## Ggg6

I am not knocking the rubi as a whole, it has good axle gearing and a good low range in the t-case, nor am I knocking you KEC, you are entitled to your opinion as am I. I have done extensive Jeep work both on road and off for several decades. I have extensively modified both of these axles, such as cutting the inner c's and rotating them on the axle tubes for improved pinion angle without sacrificing caster angle. The weak point of the D30 is not the R&P, it is the u-joint and shaft ears first, then ball joints, and third the axle tubes. At least that has been what I have seen and hear from other builders over the years.
Jeep really missed the mark on the front rubi axle, it is nothing more than a D30 with a D44 R&P, period. If you do not believe me take a look at part numbers, look at the axle specs, look at the GAWR, it's all the same as D30 except the inner shaft (because it has D44 splines) and the D44 carrier/R&P. The air lockers Jeep used are problematic at best. 
I do feel compelled to set something straight, the statement about the rubi 44 front axle is beefier than a D30, and comparison made between a F150, F250, and rubi D44 couldn't be more wrong if you used a rockwell as a comparison to the rubi axle.
I agree the D44 is the rear axle of choice if given a choice, but the D30 and rubi D44 front are equals overall.


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## KEC Maintaince

i stand corrected . you are right. 
so what your are sayin is the 30 axel up front with a 44 rear will do just fine. so i can put a locker in both and gears. also beef up the other areas and the sett up will be good to go.


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## KEC Maintaince

im looking at 2 vehicles now
one is a 2010 rubi the other is a 2009 sahara.sahara 44 rear 30 up front 
these vehicles will see plow duty as well as my daily driver. 
the rubi is a black ops and the sahara is lifted and tirers
both are really nice trucks done correctly i know the premium in this time of year but i have been looking for a good jeep for about 6 months now. and the prices do not vary that much from winter to spring here in jersey for jeeps.
now my daughter is 12 she will be driving in 5 yrs so this jeep will go to her and ill get another. so i will not want to abuse it too much ....your thoughts .


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## Ggg6

Yes I agree a D44 rear and a D30 front will carry just as much weight as a rubi, and do just fine. 
As far as your two choices I would get the Sahara and save the $$ from the rubi to get lockers in both sahara axles if you want lockers. I would also get a Jeep with a 6cyl for plowing. A 4cyl will do as a DD but for plowing I would want the extra power of the 6cyl.
How much lift does the Sahara have? You may need to lower it for the plow to lay flat when angled.


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## KEC Maintaince

ill call the dealer today and find out how much lift. this opens up a lot more possibilities now so im not as stuck on getting the rubi. 
the sahara are a lot cheaper then the rubi so it will be easier on my wallet also. i really appreciate it thanks ill let you know about the lift.


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## KEC Maintaince

Ggg6;1181852 said:


> Yes I agree a D44 rear and a D30 front will carry just as much weight as a rubi, and do just fine.
> As far as your two choices I would get the Sahara and save the $$ from the rubi to get lockers in both sahara axles if you want lockers. I would also get a Jeep with a 6cyl for plowing. A 4cyl will do as a DD but for plowing I would want the extra power of the 6cyl.
> How much lift does the Sahara have? You may need to lower it for the plow to lay flat when angled.


Ggg6
OK heres the latest. a good friend of mine contacted me today with info from one of his good customers. he has a 89 jeep with a plow. engine has been rebuilt 4.2 liter and good trans and everything serviced. he is looking to sell the jeep. dont need it any more. 
its basically a plow truck in great condition. 
it has a 6 1/2 ft western plow with a uni mount (i think) and truck runs great its a carb guy who is sellin jeep took good care of it. 
he wants about 4500 for it with the plow. (my price)
do you think this would be a good jeep to start plowing with???
ill do residential and possibley help some friends out when they ask. i will not be doing any big commercial jobs.
i have about 10 residential and 2 small lots to plow now.
i can knock them out with the blower but with the truck ill be done way faster.i just need something to get sttarted 
i really do not want a hugh car payment .


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## yamahagrizzly

imo 4500 for a 89 jeep is way to much unless it is in great shape.

i would first look for rot and rust before i even thought about it. 

locations to check
1- from middle of the back look for large flakes and holes on both sides of the frame
2- near the steering box they usually crack
3- floors
4- winshield frame
5-fenders up near the marker light and down by where it says jeep

if you could get him in the 3700-4000 range it would be a good buy if everything from the list looks good. if not then get it cheaper or walk.


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## Ggg6

Nothing wrong with an 89 YJ, but he is a bit high on the asking price. Since it has a carb fuel mileage will be worse than a EFI. Check the frame both around the plow mount, and at the rear where it slopes down from above the axle rearward to the end. The rear area is a common rust area and because of the rear spring perch it is an area that is stressed. It will have a Dana 35c rear axle and a D30 front. I like the older all steel plows more than I like the newer poly blades, call me old school I guess. For doing driveways and tight places I like Jeeps, especially with an automatic trans. As far as the lots I can't say because I can't see them. If you say they are small and know where all the curbs, sewers, speed bumps, etc. are so you can avoid hitting anything hard then sure.


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## KEC Maintaince

ill know more tomorrow when i go tak a close look at it.
plow is a steel unit excellant cond. 
pumps are all re built.
plow works flawless. 
the engine has 3000 miles on it or so. fresh motor.
body has 120000
a few guys who are familur with the jeep say its in good shape. 
the owner really took care of it. 
i wil know more tomorrow.
the only problem is you have to warm it up good before driving.


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## Ggg6

Maybe needs a carb adjustment.


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## KEC Maintaince

could be ill have it checked over if i take it.


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## Mems

Check the shock mounts as well as these are prone areas for rust and sometimes cant been seen all that well. Bring a flashlight and a mirror to get the inside scoop. They almost act like cups for water to just set in. I just had mine redone on my old 87 I've been working on. Also, take a look at the front spring to ensure they havent been twisted due to plowing or just plain wear and tear. I


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## KEC Maintaince

Thanks for all the info guys i have decided to hold off on buying that vehicle for now. 
89 jeep for 4000 bucks is a lot of money for a 21 yr old truck. 
im going to yake the time to shop around and look at newer jeeps . i dont want to end up putting more money into the jeep then its worth. 
ill continue to snow blow and salt then over the spring and summer pick up one and then get a plow also. 
i might be able to find a better deal on a plow come warmer temps.


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## yamahagrizzly

good choice.. unless it was in great and i mean great shape it wasn't worth it. think of it this way a used plow for a jeep is 500-1400 there is no way a 89 less than perfect jeep is worth 2700imo . i would buy a 97 or newer jeep for 4000 and buy a plow over the summer.


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## KEC Maintaince

yamahagrizzly;1187231 said:


> good choice.. unless it was in great and i mean great shape it wasn't worth it. think of it this way a used plow for a jeep is 500-1400 there is no way a 89 less than perfect jeep is worth 2700imo . i would buy a 97 or newer jeep for 4000 and buy a plow over the summer.


absoluty correct ill use what i have cut my teeth for the rest of this season and learn from my mistakes.
over the warmer season ill get aquainted with the way i should do things correctly and start building up from there.
ill check on insurance and exactly what i will need to do it successfully. 
ussmileyflag
thanks guys for all your help.


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