# BONDO on moldboard?



## Elite Property Services (Oct 28, 2008)

Just curious I am rehabbing my western unimount I had heard some guys using bondo to fill in any imperfections on mold board is this an option? Any good or bad experiences?


----------



## Crash935 (Sep 3, 2003)

I doubt that it would stay, heat up the dents and beat them back as close as you can and call it good.


----------



## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

I wouldn't use it unless it was just laying on a skim coat to try and fill in rust pits. Bondo doesn't like the cold, then the flexing and impacts a plow takes its bound to start cracking.


----------



## jeff52984 (Sep 25, 2009)

doesnt sound like a good idea think a fiberglass mess (like bondo) would be better if anything


----------



## Elite Property Services (Oct 28, 2008)

I was just curious about the rust pitting areas which are very prevelant the plow is very straight and not beat up but was trying to figure out a way to smooth those areas out so I can get a better final product.


----------



## Brian Young (Aug 13, 2005)

fireman89;830481 said:


> I was just curious about the rust pitting areas which are very prevelant the plow is very straight and not beat up but was trying to figure out a way to smooth those areas out so I can get a better final product.


Sand blasting is prob. your best bet. Depending how bad it is (the rust) your still going to have pits. Try some very thin skim coats, I wouldn't put more than a couple very thin ones on. It will help but might not be perfectly smooth. Then prime with a good etching primer. My salt spreader was pretty bad last year so I decided to have it sand blasted this year and its still very pitted looking in areas. I put a few coats of etching primer on it and its definitely smoother now but still doesn't look like a brand new unit....but its a well used spreader,lol


----------



## ratoneton (Oct 17, 2009)

*bondo*

i sandblast and paint my plow with farm implament paint every other year it levels out as it dries and last a couple years


----------



## jeff52984 (Sep 25, 2009)

forgot another good thing to use is por 15 I used it on my plow it is suppose to be awesome form what I hear. First ahnd people that use it maybe try that also then you dont have to get it down to bear metal but that wont make it smooth meant for going over rust check into it.


----------



## fireboy6413 (Sep 28, 2008)

POR, oh wow I haven't heard of that in a while, I used to do body work on buses, we used por on all black areas, The best thing I have ever used. The sayings right POR, it takes time, where gloves causes it takes a long time to come off.


----------



## jeff52984 (Sep 25, 2009)

lol yea I found that out the hard way had it on my elbow (dont ask how it got there) for probably a week but still good stuff and make sure you use all of the can or seal it properly otherwise you will never be able to open it again


----------



## mcfly89 (Nov 2, 2005)

bondo might not be the best bet, but glaze would be fine. glaze is put on alot thinner, like filling slight rust pits or finishing the last of that hammered out dent. with a good primer and proper prep, glaze should hold up very well and do exactly what you are trying to accomplish.


----------



## FordFisherman (Dec 5, 2007)

Use the silver POR 15- 2 or 3 coats will smooth out the pits,


----------



## Gear_Head (Apr 29, 2009)

I used bondo for a skim coat on a few areas, we will see how it holds up. I think it will last as I am gentle with my equipment. If it doesn't hold up well, I am gonna put a lexan skin on the front anyhow.


----------



## WreckerNut (Oct 11, 2009)

What you want to use for rust pits is final glaze putty, not actual bondo. It is lighter and stickier than bondo and not as thick. Either that or a high build primer.


----------



## mcfly89 (Nov 2, 2005)

WreckerNut;831563 said:


> What you want to use for rust pits is final glaze putty, not actual bondo. It is lighter and stickier than bondo and not as thick. Either that or a high build primer.


its like de ja vu....all over again


----------



## T&M SnowMan (Sep 29, 2008)

its like de ja vu all over again....all over again...all over again....lol


----------



## chris30 (Oct 18, 2009)

*plastic repair*

i do a lot of plastic repairs and i feel that there lot plastic repair materials along w/ plastic welders that out there that would be a better long term repair than bondo
there is a material out there that is made by duramix no# is 4747 most bodyshops can get this material and can maybe let you use spec. caulk gun that works great.


----------



## WreckerNut (Oct 11, 2009)

ooopss my fault for the deja vu. That's what you get for reading boards at 4am!!!! At my body shop we use the 3m duramix products mostly for panel bonding and seam sealing... might be kinda hard to work with for this type of application as it is very tacky and hardens quickly. The final glaze putty stays pliable longer and spreads better. We use it on our flatbed rails when we sandblast and repaint them and it hold up fine, and believe me flatbeds take abuse.


----------



## mcfly89 (Nov 2, 2005)

WreckerNut;832165 said:


> ooopss my fault for the deja vu. That's what you get for reading boards at 4am!!!! At my body shop we use the 3m duramix products mostly for panel bonding and seam sealing... might be kinda hard to work with for this type of application as it is very tacky and hardens quickly. The final glaze putty stays pliable longer and spreads better. We use it on our flatbed rails when we sandblast and repaint them and it hold up fine, and believe me flatbeds take abuse.


dejavu is no matter...ur right...that matters


----------

