# Just getting started (intro)



## novawagonmaster

Jon here from Ashtabula, OH. Just bought a 2000 Wrangler with the 4.0 six and a 5-speed manual trans. I bought the Jeep with the intention of plowing first, and as a fun summer cruiser second. So far, the second part is working out well.

As you can see in the pic, it came with a soft top and 1/2 doors. The day I picked up the Jeep, I picked up a hard top locally through a CL ad. Since then, I have also sourced a set of full hard doors, so I will be good to go in the Winter.

Now for the fun stuff. I ordered a 7'6" Fisher HT today. Should be ready for pickup next week. Now that Summer is in full swing, I will be taking advantage of the nice weather to mod the rig for plowing and perform some preventative maintenance. Besides installing the plow, I have a set (of 4) Gabriel air socks to install, a rear bumper to fabricate that will carry ballast, and a clutch to install. Still researching lighting at this point.

Also on my list is wheels & tires. In the interest of better tire selection, I am going to run 16" steel wheels with Bridestone Blizzak W965 tires. Just need to decide on size. I'm thinking either LT225/75R16 or LT245/75R16. The 225 is about the same height as the stock 30x9.50R15 tire. The 245 is both a little taller and a little wider. I have to be careful not to go too tall because I have an old house/garage with a short garage door opening. If that wasn't the case, I would just go with LT235/85R16 and call it done. I will probably be able to better decide on tires after the plow is mounted and I can check clearances both on the Jeep and with the garage door situation.

As for plowing plans, I am going to ease into it this year by plowing just a handful of driveways for family and neighbors. Once I get a feel for the whole process, I will decide if and when to jump in with both feet. Initially, it will just be nice not to have to run a snowblower in my own driveway for an hour every time it snows.

I would like to thank Plowmeister for openly sharing what he has learned over the years building and running his Jeeps. It has helped me (and others) in making decisions about how to build a better Jeep for plowing.

I'm sure I will have questions as I get going, and I look forward to sharing any info I learn along the way.

Here is the Jeep as I bought it:


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## JustJeff

The Ht only weighs 414 lbs, so I wouldn't think you'd need counterweight. Although the added weight will give you more traction. Your set-up should be a very nice driveway set-up, but I wouldn't want to be doing a very large number of them or any commercial work with it. That blade just isn't made for that. But for a moderate amount of driveways I think you'll be more than adequate. There are some guys on here who work a jeep's ass off and have been doing so for years, so I'd keep watching for those jeep threads. I wish you luck, and think you're doing the smart thing by working on a limited basis your first year.


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## PlowingPreacher

Nice jeep. Hope all goes well for you.


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## bschurr

Welcome & good luck with your plans - they seem solid. Lots of great info here!


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## novawagonmaster

Harleyjeff;1813358 said:


> The Ht only weighs 414 lbs, so I wouldn't think you'd need counterweight. Although the added weight will give you more traction. Your set-up should be a very nice driveway set-up, but I wouldn't want to be doing a very large number of them or any commercial work with it. That blade just isn't made for that. But for a moderate amount of driveways I think you'll be more than adequate. There are some guys on here who work a jeep's ass off and have been doing so for years, so I'd keep watching for those jeep threads. I wish you luck, and think you're doing the smart thing by working on a limited basis your first year.


I know I could get by without ballast, but I know it can't hurt to get a couple hundred pounds back there. I don't plan on going overboard with the weight. As for the plow itself, I'm sure it will be adequate to get me started. I am not opposed to trading up if I find that something heavier is needed down the road. Thanks for the well wishes and insight!



PlowingPreacher;1813359 said:


> Nice jeep. Hope all goes well for you.


Thank you.



bschurr;1813433 said:


> Welcome & good luck with your plans - they seem solid. Lots of great info here!


Thank you, and yes... I am very thankful for all of the great info on this site.


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## info4tim

novawagonmaster;1813480 said:


> I know I could get by without ballast, but I know it can't hurt to get a couple hundred pounds back there. I don't plan on going overboard with the weight. As for the plow itself, I'm sure it will be adequate to get me started. I am not opposed to trading up if I find that something heavier is needed down the road. Thanks for the well wishes and insight!
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Thank you, and yes... I am very thankful for all of the great info on this site.


Nice jeep! Before you get started being its a 00, how's the frame rust looking?


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## novawagonmaster

info4tim;1813922 said:


> Nice jeep! Before you get started being its a 00, how's the frame rust looking?


One small bad spot in front of left rear tire. I did know about it when I bought it, and that factored into the negotiation. Easily fixed at home with the small frame patch...


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## info4tim

novawagonmaster;1813924 said:


> One small bad spot in front of left rear tire. I did know about it when I bought it, and that factored into the negotiation. Easily fixed at home with the small frame patch...


How did you pull that frame part pic without rest of vehicle?


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## novawagonmaster

The pic is of the new replacement piece that gets welded in to replace the area that is rusted out. I snagged the pic off of the website where I am purchasing the part.


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## info4tim

Ok so you do have rust. How's the rust round skid plate n cntrl arms in rear? I assume you're getting parts from autorust.com? You doin the welding?


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## novawagonmaster

Skid plate area is good. Only bad spot is left rear just ahead of the wheel. Yes, it's the autorust.com part, and it includes the lower control arm mount. Yes, I will be welding it myself.


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## info4tim

novawagonmaster;1814226 said:


> Skid plate area is good. Only bad spot is left rear just ahead of the wheel. Yes, it's the autorust.com part, and it includes the lower control arm mount. Yes, I will be welding it myself.


Ok sounds good. Since you know welding..have a co that's going to patch my rusted frame. Says they use mig welding n butt weld pieces after cutting old sections out. Any comments pro con on this process? Thx


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## novawagonmaster

info4tim;1814261 said:


> Ok sounds good. Since you know welding..have a co that's going to patch my rusted frame. Says they use mig welding n butt weld pieces after cutting old sections out. Any comments pro con on this process? Thx


That is exactly what I intend to do.


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## novawagonmaster

Went and picked up the new plow yesterday. They used an overhead crane to drop it right into my trailer, and I used a cherry picker to get it out at home. Here are a couple pics:


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## novawagonmaster

After unloading the plow, I decided to address the leaking valve cover gasket. I hate working on grimy stuff, so I spent a few extra minutes cleaning up the filthy valve cover.




























I have Friday, Saturday, and Sunday off for the holiday, so hopefully I will find time to get some more wrenching done on the Jeep.


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## info4tim

Nice work! Great plow rig..how big again n how many $$? On the butt welding...think if using same 3/16" steel will be as good/strong than org? Thx n good luck this weekend!


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## novawagonmaster

Thank you. Plow is 7.5' HT. With tax, it was around $4k.

The safety and reliability of the repair depends on only one thing... the guy doing the welding.

I usually document repairs and mods with pics. I'm sure I will have some more to share this weekend, and again when I get into the frame repair.

-Jon


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## info4tim

novawagonmaster;1814325 said:


> Thank you. Plow is 7.5' HT. With tax, it was around $4k.
> 
> The safety and reliability of the repair depends on only one thing... the guy doing the welding.
> 
> I usually document repairs and mods with pics. I'm sure I will have some more to share this weekend, and again when I get into the frame repair.
> 
> -Jon


Ok sounds good. Anything I should have my shop do/not do when patching my frame soon?


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## info4tim

novawagonmaster;1814314 said:


> After unloading the plow, I decided to address the leaking valve cover gasket. I hate working on grimy stuff, so I spent a few extra minutes cleaning up the filthy valve cover.
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Btw, you have any tricks to removing the coil rail n plugs?


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## novawagonmaster

info4tim;1814346 said:


> Ok sounds good. Anything I should have my shop do/not do when patching my frame soon?


I assume they are using the autorust.com patch as well? Have them watch the video online. Most important part (besides quality welding) is measure, measure, measure.



info4tim;1814347 said:


> Btw, you have any tricks to removing the coil rail n plugs?


Pretty simple. Just remove bolts holding coil pack down, then lift coil pack up off plugs and set it down out of the way. I did not even disconnect the wiring harness from it when I replaced my plugs and boots.


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## novawagonmaster

Made a little progress yesterday. Removed skid plate, both driveshafts, transfter case, transmission, and clutch. I left the flywheel in place because it looked excellent after light sanding. No hot spots or cracks.










I was getting a bad rattling noise when letting the clutch out on takeoff. Looks like this may be the culprit. The springs on the clutch disc were all very loose and a couple of them were digging their way into the surrounding metal.










I then replaced the pilot bearing and installed the new clutch disc and pressure plate. One tool I keep meaning to by is a flywheel holder, but I improvised. 










That was about as far as I got. One of the starter mounting bolts broke off almost flush in the bellhousing. Of course it is a blind hole. There was not enough of the bolt left to grab with anything, so I tried welding a nut to it. The bolt is really in there, and it broke the weld when trying to remove. At that point, I ground the nub flush and drilled the center out. Tried an easy out extractor, and proceeded to break that off in the hole. Fortunately, welding a nub to the easy out allowed me to remove it from the hole, but I still have whet's left of the bolt in there to deal with. I let it soak in PB Blaster all night, so we will see what today brings.


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## Whiffyspark

I wish someone made extractors that don't break. Even my snap on ones do


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## novawagonmaster

After letting the broken bolt soak in PB Blaster all night, I went back to work on it. Cleaned it off and welded a nub on the end. Snapped on a pair of vise grips and began slowly working it back and forth. I let out a sigh of relief when it came all the way out.










Cleaned a few things up and reassembled. Took it out for a drive last night and the new clutch feels good.


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## novawagonmaster

Installed new calipers, pads, rotors, and front axle universal joints yesterday. I knew the left u-joint was smoked (it was actually sloppy), but upon removal, I found the right side was bone dry and very tight. Here is a pic of the left one...


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## Hubjeep

Great pics!

Excellent plow choice, 7' 6" is NICE!!!!


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## novawagonmaster

Hubjeep;1814915 said:


> Great pics!
> 
> Excellent plow choice, 7' 6" is NICE!!!!


Thanks. Pics really do tell a better story sometimes. 

As for the plow, I like what I see, but I can't say that I excited to put it to use just yet. Seems like the warm weather just got here.

Yesterday I installed all of the wiring on the Jeep for the plow. All I have left to do is mount the joystick and the frame mounts, and I am ready for a test run. Maybe this weekend.


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## novawagonmaster

Previous owner installed a cheap battery that looks like it belongs in a lawn tractor, so I swapped it last night.
Out with the old 540 cca unit and in with a fresh 850 cca unit. Tight fit, but good to go after minor modification to the hold down.


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## novawagonmaster

Busy weekend. After work on Saturday, I took care of a few loose ends with the wiring for the plow. Then on Sunday, I installed the front Gabriel air shocks.


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## novawagonmaster

After the shocks were on, I checked front bumper height, then hooked up the plow. When I raised the plow, the front end dropped a little over two inches. It took 95 psi in the front shocks to raise the front end back up to stock ride height. I took it for a drive, and it drove just fine. Engine coolant temp was just a few degrees higher than without the plow.










Here is a shot from the rear with the plow at full angle...


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## Jeep_thing

Hello! I thank you for sharing your build and great photos to accompany it. I look forward to the updates as I plan to do a very similar build soon, most likely next summer. I am still making a decision on age /price of Jeep to start with. Thanks again and I know you are not in a hurry to see snow but also can't wait to try it!


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## novawagonmaster

Jeep_thing;1815810 said:


> Hello! I thank you for sharing your build and great photos to accompany it. I look forward to the updates as I plan to do a very similar build soon, most likely next summer. I am still making a decision on age /price of Jeep to start with. Thanks again and I know you are not in a hurry to see snow but also can't wait to try it!


It is always my hope that I am helping someone by sharing what I am doing and what I have learned along the way. Best of luck in your Jeep search and subsequent build.


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## Santry426

You have a part number on those front air shocks? I have same jeep as yours was thinking about doing a 3in zone lift. Might leave it as is and go air shock route


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## novawagonmaster

Front air shocks:
Gabriel # 49216


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## Jeep_thing

novawagonmaster;1813924 said:


> One small bad spot in front of left rear tire. I did know about it when I bought it, and that factored into the negotiation. Easily fixed at home with the small frame patch...


Did you make this repair yet? Curious to see pictures!


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## novawagonmaster

What timing! I am going to begin working on it Wednesday this week. As it turns out, the rust was a little more advanced. The bad spot extended forward just a couple inches past where the small repair piece would have covered. As a result, I purchased the longer repair pieces. I will take pictures to document the extent of the rust as well as the process to complete the repair.


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## Jeep_thing

novawagonmaster;1820720 said:


> What timing! I am going to begin working on it Wednesday this week. As it turns out, the rust was a little more advanced. The bad spot extended forward just a couple inches past where the small repair piece would have covered. As a result, I purchased the longer repair pieces. I will take pictures to document the extent of the rust as well as the process to complete the repair.


Good!

BTW, not trying to be the grammar or welding police here but that job would be virtually impossible to butt weld as mentioned earlier. You will be laying the new section on top of good metal (overlapping) and hence be called a lap joint or fillet weld.


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## novawagonmaster

Sorry it took me a few days to get this posted. Last week, I cut out the rusted frame areas and welded in the repair pieces from autorust.com. After priming and painting the new metal, I replaced all of the steel brake lines with stainless pre-fabbed lines from Classic Tube. No hiccups to report this time around. Everything went pretty well. Although the welding is not my prettiest work, it is strong and will outlast the rest of the Jeep for sure!


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## novawagonmaster




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## novawagonmaster




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## novawagonmaster




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## novawagonmaster

Jeep_thing;1820735 said:


> BTW, not trying to be the grammar or welding police here but that job would be virtually impossible to butt weld as mentioned earlier. You will be laying the new section on top of good metal (overlapping) and hence be called a lap joint or fillet weld.


You are correct.


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## theplowmeister

Nice job
(adding caricatures so it will post)


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## Jeep_thing

Nice job! Welds look great for the conditions given to you.

Questions-

1. Did I read that the frames rust out from lack of drain holes?

2. If so, do the repair pieces have drain holes? Does anyone drill drain holes in their frame before it rusts out to prevent that?

3. What type of frame protection is best on a new (used) Jeep purchase- paint, undercoating, Fluid Film?


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## novawagonmaster

theplowmeister;1822788 said:


> Nice job
> (adding caricatures so it will post)


Thank you.



Jeep_thing;1822806 said:


> Nice job! Welds look great for the conditions given to you.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Questions-
> 
> 1. Did I read that the frames rust out from lack of drain holes?
> 
> Yes. The crud goes in the holes on the side of the frame, then has nowhere to exit.
> 
> 2. If so, do the repair pieces have drain holes? Does anyone drill drain holes in their frame before it rusts out to prevent that?
> 
> The repair pieces have one hole per piece. The hole is located in the bottom of each piece in the area where the rear trailing arm mounts up. The repair pieces eliminate/cover up the holes in the sides of the frame. That said, there are other holes in the sides of the frame beyond where the new pieces fit, so debris/water can and will eventually find its way in. It will just take longer. I did not drill any additional holes in mine. Mine is 15 years old. I cannot see it rusting out in the next 15 years. Then again, I cannot see owning it 15 years from now.
> 
> 3. What type of frame protection is best on a new (used) Jeep purchase- paint, undercoating, Fluid Film?


I like Fluid Film or motor oil.


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## Banksy

Nice write up and photos. Cool rig you made up. EZ outs or extractors have always baffled me. If the bolt broke, how in the world is an extractor going to help and not break? I've never had one work for me.


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## Whiffyspark

Banksy;1823654 said:


> Nice write up and photos. Cool rig you made up. EZ outs or extractors have always baffled me. If the bolt broke, how in the world is an extractor going to help and not break? I've never had one work for me.


Generally, but not always once the head is brokeN off there is no/very little tension on the threads. That's when an ezout shines.

Use the biggest one you can and always as deep as you can. The little ones usually break, though lol


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## novawagonmaster

New wheels and tires are ready to go. Went with some cheap black 16" steel wheels with Blizzak DM-V1 Winter tires (P245/75R16). The tires are 30.5" in diameter. Since my Jeep is not lifted, this is about as tall as I want to go to avoid rubbing on the sway bar when making sharp turns.


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## Jeep_thing

Very nice, you are about ready aren't you? Tire Rack?


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## novawagonmaster

Jeep_thing;1827067 said:


> Very nice, you are about ready aren't you? Tire Rack?


Got them through our shop, but Tire Rack does carry the same products.

Technically, I could start plowing as it sits, but I have a few more things in the works to make things safer, easier, and more comfortable. I will keep adding to this thread as I make progress.


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## novawagonmaster

Mounted the hard top, full doors, and winter wheels & tires today.

Took it for a short drive... completely different vehicle compared to running around with the soft top!

Pics:


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## Jeep_thing

Do you still plan to fab a weighted bumper or you going to start without it?


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## novawagonmaster

Depends on free time over the next month or so. I have removed the rear seat in anticipation of throwing a few sand tubes (which I already have) in the back if I don't get the bumper done before snow flies. Still on the list, just not a top priority yet.


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## novawagonmaster

Made a mount for the joystick yesterday. Used a scrap piece of 1/8" steel I had laying around. Let the paint dry overnight and mounted it today. Made sure I had plenty of room when in 1/3/5 gears. I believe this will be much easier than trying to use a handheld "Fish Stick".


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## Santry426

That's a great idea!


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## Abouna

Wow! Nice work and thread!


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## ss164

*Air Shocks*

Great thread!!! Very informative.

Do you have a part number on rear Gabriel air shocks?


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## novawagonmaster

I have the receipt in a file at home. I will try to remember to check it for you tonight or tomorrow.


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## Jeep_thing

ss164;1852131 said:


> Great thread!!! Very informative.
> 
> Do you have a part number on rear Gabriel air shocks?


49226

I bought mine at Autozone


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## ss164

Jeep_thing;1853543 said:


> 49226
> 
> I bought mine at Autozone


Thank you.


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## novawagonmaster

I used Gabriel #49226 on the rear as well.

Sorry I did not get back to you right away. Busy weekend!


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## ss164

Thanks guys. I ordered them today from Autozone.


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## RS69

Nice project and work.


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## novawagonmaster

Welp, round one is in the books. Had 10" of snow at work in Madison, so really didn't know what I was going to find when I got home in Saybrook (Ashtabula). Ended up with 8" on the deck out back, but only about 5-6" of very wet heavy snow in the driveways (was melting from the bottom up).

Since this is my first year, I started off very light... only doing driveways in my own neighborhood. All driveway accounts paid up for the season. Only a couple asked for shovel work, and those are very short runs from the driveway to the back door.

First night out went very well. The Jeep performed very well, and there are a few things that I was really pleased with. Mounting the joystick plow control on the shifter worked out very well, and the reverse lights (cheap autozone fog light set mounted on the rear bumper) are awesome! Oh, and I am in love with the "slow rotate" function on the Galaxy mini strobe. 

Bring it on, Mother Nature, I am ready for some more fun!


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## novawagonmaster

I decided I wanted more light in the rear, so I went to Autozone and picked up a cheap (under $30) fog lights. My Jeep used to have fog lights on the front bumper, but they had been removed before I purchased it. That means the dash switch and relay were already there for me to use with the reverse lights. This also means that I can leave it on the entire time I am plowing if I choose, which makes me more visible to others.

Here is a shot of the rear with the new lights in place:


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## novawagonmaster

Also put a new trailer hitch on. When I bought the Jeep, it had a Class II hitch on it. All of my stuff (ball mounts, bike racks, etc.) need a Class III, and I am not one for adapters and such. Upon removing the old hitch, the rear bolt on the right side snapped off. Of course that bolt goes into a blind weld nut in frame. Rather than spending an hour fighting with drill bit and easy outs, I decided to cut a window in the frame, take care of the offending bolt, and sew it all back up. I forgot to take a final pic after smoothing the welds and shooting some paint. Looking at it now, it would be difficult to tell anything was ever done there.


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## novawagonmaster

Interesting tidbit:
I had to drop a few items off at the scrap yard, so I took the Jeep as it is set up for plowing. After dropping off my scrap items, I rolled across the scale right at 4500 lbs.


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## Jeep_thing

Nice technique on that repair


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