# What should I do?



## exmark (Apr 24, 2007)

I am thinking about purchasing a light bar for my truck for the upcoming snow season. I just have one question and that is what's the easiest way to run the cord into the cab since my truck is a single cab I can only run the cord threw either driver or passenger window right, or is there another way so the cord won't be in the way all the time when getting in and out of the truck. Thanks


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## show-n-go (Feb 5, 2009)

I just run mine through the door jam towards the back then run it behind the seat and up to the plug. Once it gets formed to the door and the weather gets cold they stay there very well.


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## exmark (Apr 24, 2007)

Thats what I was thinking about doing, but I didn't know how the cord would handle that.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

We run all of ours under the CHMSL (3rd brake light) and use a 2 prong quick connect so we can swap out a bad light bar for a hot spare quickly. You can do this with the lighter plug, but we've also gone to hard wiring through a switch on everything to get rid of that loose cord running through the interior.


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## exmark (Apr 24, 2007)

Too Stroked;1091967 said:


> We run all of ours under the CHMSL (3rd brake light) and use a 2 prong quick connect so we can swap out a bad light bar for a hot spare quickly. You can do this with the lighter plug, but we've also gone to hard wiring through a switch on everything to get rid of that loose cord running through the interior.


 Could you tell me how to run the plug threw the 3rd brake light. Thanks


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## USMCMP5811 (Aug 31, 2008)

Are you going with a mini light bar or full size? if you are going full size, the cord is a lot bigger ans I don't recomend trying to go through the door jamb or 3rd brake light.....


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

exmark;1091982 said:


> Could you tell me how to run the plug threw the 3rd brake light. Thanks


We run an all Ford Super Duty fleet, so my advice is specific to that kind of truck. The work I've done on other brands seems to say that the process is pretty much similar though.

What we do is re-wire our Star (strobe) mini bars using a 2 prong quick connect plug available at most auto parts stores. It looks exactly like a 2 prong version of the standard "flat four" trailer connector. Remember, though, you have a hot and a ground wire there. You want the hot lead on the "truck side" to be the "shielded" connector.

We remove the CHMSL by taking out the two sheet metal screws that hold it in. Now you have access to run the truck half of your harness in through the opening, under the head liner and over to the driver side A pillar. (I ground right inside the opening using a short sheet metal screw.) You run the hot lead down, then fuse and switch it properly. The other thing I do is shield the wire that will run out under the CHMSL with shrink wrap tubing.

To put everything back together, I carefully run an appropriate length of the "truck side" harness out under the CHMSL, then replace the light, then carefully tighten the two sheet metal screws. The reason you come out _under_ the light is to avoid water leaks. For us, for the past 15 years, this has worked so much better than running the lighter plug in through the sliding window and under the seat. Hope that helps!


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

It took me a bit to find it, but here's a bit more involved installation for a bigger bar. It's still an "under the CHMSL wiring" deal, but hopefully you'll get the general idea.

I should note that several members here didn't like this installation when I posted it up last year, but it works like a charm for the owner.


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## exmark (Apr 24, 2007)

Thanks for the help. I think im going to give that a shot. The light bar is going to be a whelen mini light bar.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

exmark;1092650 said:


> Thanks for the help. I think im going to give that a shot. The light bar is going to be a whelen mini light bar.


It'll work just fine with one of them.


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## USMCMP5811 (Aug 31, 2008)

Too Stroked;1092628 said:


> It took me a bit to find it, but here's a bit more involved installation for a bigger bar. It's still an "under the CHMSL wiring" deal, but hopefully you'll get the general idea.
> 
> I should note that several members here didn't like this installation when I posted it up last year, but it works like a charm for the owner.


Not to be a d!ck but, the draw that that full sized light bar takes and how you hooked it up through such small guage wire, I hope you have fire insurance on you truck. Just saying.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

That's what the unititated said and on first blush, I would think the same thing. If I was only using one wire to feed the rotators, you'd be correct. If you saw the wiring diagram, you'd see that I've doubled up wiring for the hot and ground wires for the rotators. Result? Proper wire size for the current running through them. Sound better?


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Another option is the cab vents at the back of the cab or run under the cab and up under your seats. You can either drill or sometimes (at least in the 2 Ram's I've done this on) there are rubber plugs in the floor you can drill through or remove.


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## exmark (Apr 24, 2007)

plowguy43;1093425 said:


> Another option is the cab vents at the back of the cab or run under the cab and up under your seats. You can either drill or sometimes (at least in the 2 Ram's I've done this on) there are rubber plugs in the floor you can drill through or remove.


 I actually just pulled off my 3rd brake light to see what I could see threw the liner. One of my friends actually stuck his finger threw the back of the head liner there, I think what I am going to do is run the cord and plug threw the head liner and down the back window then under the seat and up to the cigarette plug. Thanks for the help though.


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## plowguy43 (Jan 2, 2008)

Nice! Take some pics!!!


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## exmark (Apr 24, 2007)

plowguy43;1093487 said:


> Nice! Take some pics!!!


 Ill throw some up here in a few weeks. I still have to order the bar its going to be a mini whelen responder.


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## massfirefighter (Oct 14, 2008)

Too Stroked;1093200 said:


> That's what the unititated said and on first blush, I would think the same thing. If I was only using one wire to feed the rotators, you'd be correct. If you saw the wiring diagram, you'd see that I've doubled up wiring for the hot and ground wires for the rotators. Result? Proper wire size for the current running through them. Sound better?


Be careful with that. You're not supposed to parallel any wire smaller than 1/0.


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## gtstang462002 (Dec 23, 2009)

massfirefighter;1093620 said:


> Be careful with that. You're not supposed to parallel any wire smaller than 1/0.


If the wires and or connectors are not warming up then there is no reason to worry about them. All you are doing here is doubling the actual strand count inside of the wires. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and only travels over the outer surface of the copper anyhow. The actual weak spot in any electrical circuit are connection points from start to finish and anywhere in between.


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## PeteB4 (Aug 27, 2006)

exmark;1093484 said:


> I actually just pulled off my 3rd brake light to see what I could see threw the liner. One of my friends actually stuck his finger threw the back of the head liner there, I think what I am going to do is run the cord and plug threw the head liner and down the back window then under the seat and up to the cigarette plug. Thanks for the help though.


I just picked up a couple of beacons with the cig plugs. Do you think I could fit both cig plugs (one and then the other) through the opening? 
Not sure what you run for a truck, I have a 2000 F350. Don't know how much of a difference that would make on the opening.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

gtstang462002;1094612 said:


> If the wires and or connectors are not warming up then there is no reason to worry about them. All you are doing here is doubling the actual strand count inside of the wires. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and only travels over the outer surface of the copper anyhow. The actual weak spot in any electrical circuit are connection points from start to finish and anywhere in between.


100% correct and thank you. No heat issues with this install.


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

PeteB4;1094730 said:


> I just picked up a couple of beacons with the cig plugs. Do you think I could fit both cig plugs (one and then the other) through the opening?
> Not sure what you run for a truck, I have a 2000 F350. Don't know how much of a difference that would make on the opening.


If the first one goes through, the second should be no big problem. Make sure you're careful when you re-install the 3rd brake light though. Don't pinch the wires.


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## Pirsch (Jun 1, 2007)

ok...here's my 2 cents.. IF you have a truck with the plug in the headliner over the driver seat you CAN go thru the 3rd brake light.

IS the lightbar going to be Permanant Mount or you using the Magnets... Reguardless if you run the wire down the "A" post and down between the fender and door you'll be ok.. just make sure you put the wire BEHIND the upper door hinge and into the truck behind the molding and kick plate on the side of door panel. 

The others were correct on going under the truck and thru a hole...just make sure you seal up the hole with the wire in it or your going to have a wet floor. 3rd brake light you run the wire under the BOTTOM of the light through the cab to that wire that maybe over the driverside head or just run it to under the molding around the window and around and to the switch or your lighter plug.

IF your just doing temp mount and cigarette plug, just run the wire through the passenger side door jam at the top... The wire should be able to handle it just keep an eye on it. The rubber molding around the door will absorb 95+% of the impact of the door against the wire. 

Good luck with it and when you get done post some pictures of your install.


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## massfirefighter (Oct 14, 2008)

gtstang462002;1094612 said:


> If the wires and or connectors are not warming up then there is no reason to worry about them. All you are doing here is doubling the actual strand count inside of the wires. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and only travels over the outer surface of the copper anyhow. The actual weak spot in any electrical circuit are connection points from start to finish and anywhere in between.


Not to be a dink but incorrect. 
For 60Hz AC in conductor material, the current is concentrated in the outer few centimeters of the cable. 
For DC the conductor's charges are flowing distributed uniformly throughout the material.


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## gtstang462002 (Dec 23, 2009)

massfirefighter;1095426 said:


> Not to be a dink but incorrect.
> For 60Hz AC in conductor material, the current is concentrated in the outer few centimeters of the cable.
> For DC the conductor's charges are flowing distributed uniformly throughout the material.


Just because it is on answers.dom doesn't make it so. It really comes down to the atomic level on how electrons move across wire. Different metal's flow electricity at different rates and copper isn't the best conductor out there, it is the most cost efficient metal. The bottom line here is that there is no law against how he ran his wires to power a light bar that probably won't even tap 20 amps. Theories bore me.


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## massfirefighter (Oct 14, 2008)

How is copper more cost efficient than compact aluminum? 
12 volts DC uses the whole conductor and that was my point. The coax feeding your antenna uses the outer surface of the copper.
20 years in the electrical business, not answers.com.
Assuming that bar has 55watt lamps, it is probably drawing at least 27 amps with everything on, not including the motors.


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## gtstang462002 (Dec 23, 2009)

massfirefighter;1095460 said:


> How is copper more cost efficient than compact aluminum?
> 12 volts DC uses the whole conductor and that was my point. The coax feeding your antenna uses the outer surface of the copper.
> 20 years in the electrical business, not answers.com.


Copper has less resistance per foot than aluminum(under a load). If aluminum was more efficient I guess every auto manufacturer in the world has been using the wrong wire for the last 100+years. I guess my electrical engineering instructor was dead wrong with his instructional theories as well. Your words from your previous post sure do look just like this: http://wiki.answers.com


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## massfirefighter (Oct 14, 2008)

I meant copper is not the most cost efficient in general. In a commercial AC environment, up-sizing an aluminum conductor is less than half the cost of running copper conductors. 
Who cares anyway? It's the weekend, no more shop talk.


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## gtstang462002 (Dec 23, 2009)

massfirefighter;1095475 said:


> I meant copper is not the most cost efficient in general. In a commercial AC environment, up-sizing an aluminum conductor is less than half the cost of running copper conductors.
> Who cares anyway? It's the weekend, no more shop talk.


Agreed.

10char


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## Too Stroked (Jan 1, 2010)

Well gentlemen, as much as I love a lively debate, I figured I'd go out and do some actual measurement. I went over the customer's house (a friend of mine) and we did some experimentation. Using a hand held digital heat gun, I took some baseline readings on the wire bundles. We saw 61.7 degrees on average. We then started the truck and lit everything up. That would be upper level rotators and lower level LEDs. Five minutes later I took readings at the exact same spots. We got 66.3 degrees - before cracking open some 38.1 degree beers. I'm satisfied. Are you?


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## massfirefighter (Oct 14, 2008)

Too Stroked;1095578 said:


> before cracking open some 38.1 degree beers. I


Amen to that!


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