# Tired of snowblowing:Thinkin Curtis Plow on my 01 Cherokee: Basic questions:



## xrdirthead

*Hi,
I am thinking of adding a Curtis snow plow to the front of my 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Any advice for a newbie would be appreciated. Emails welcome: I think members should have access to it. Thanks in advance.
Ed Kenney

The Curtis dealer is right up the street and the factory is only an hour from my home in Avon, MA.

This is the model I was looking at:
1SP7 - 7' HOME-PRO 3000 Series Plow Package 
http://www.curtisplow.com/ApplicationGuide.html?id=61

I'm not sure of what control to pick: 
I'm guessing the joy stick or the finger tip control. The joy stick looks kind of large for my underdash mounting area but might be easier to use then having two finger tip controls.
Any advice would be apprecitated. 
http://www.curtisplow.com/Hitch-N-Run.html

From what I have read I should add Timbrens up front to help keep it from bottoming out and I'm guessing I'll need some weight in the back to offset the plow? The guy I called said he had a water bladder with some type of anti-freeze I could use to help weight the rear end. I've read people like to use Rubbermaid totes filled with sand too. Again more to think about.
URL="http://www.timbren.com/"]http://www.timbren.com/[/URL]

My shocks are the originals and still feel fine. (at least on the highway) The Jeep is just used up and down the highway to get me to work not off road at all but was wondering if after market shocks might help.

My tires are brand new Good Year "Forteras." The specs show them to perform well in the snow so I think I'm all set there. http://www.goodyearfortera.com/tripletred/index.html*


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## festerw

I run about 200lbs of ballast in my 98, seems to work out OK.

From what I hear Timbrens on the front make the ride really stiff, I have a set of Airlift 1000 airbags on the front of mine and it still rides like stock. There is a little modification that has to be done to run the bags on the 96+ Cherokees but nothing too crazy.


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## xrdirthead

*Thanks.*

I think I would be better off with the airbags. I don't want it to ride stiffer than it does already. Should I use the airbags in the front and the rear and what about that B&M cooler your running. I'm trying to put a price tag on this before I dive into it. 
Thanks,
Ed


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## festerw

I bagged mine all around but I pull a cargo trailer with mine and the already sagging leafs and about 300lbs of tongue weight made it ride like sh*t. So unless you plan on weighing down the back, bags on the front are good. I ordered everything from Summit Racing.

Front Bags $66.88

Rear Bags $179.69

B&M Transmisson Cooler $49.88

And this fitting so there is no cutting of the transmission lines to plumb the cooler from Advance Auto Parts
Imperial Fitting $10.88

Like I said earlier fitting the air bags to the front of 96+ Cherokees requires a little modification.

You need to (full instructions)
1. Jack up the front NOT using the axle and support the vehicle with jackstands.
2. Remove the wheels
3. Put a jack under the axle just to support the weight.
4. Disconnect the front swaybar
5. Disconnect the front shocks (nows a good time to change those also, I like the Monroe Sensatrac's)
6. Lower the axle jack to relieve the pressure on the springs
7. Remove lower spring retainers
8. Using a spring compressor (rented from Autozone/Advance) compress the front springs and pull them out.
9. Pull out the bumpstop
10. Using a reciprocatin saw/cutoff wheel remove the "cup" portion of the bumpstop mount.
11. Grind/sand your cut surface smooth
12. Tap threads into the hole in the bumpstop mount.
13. Using a 3/4" drill bit/hole saw, drill into the center of the lower spring mount.
14. Insert air bags into coil springs
15. Reinstall airbag/spring combo back into vehicle
16. Reinstall lower spring retainer.
17. Push airbag to the top of the coil spring and connect air line running it through the 3/4" hole in the lower spring mount.
18. Start raising the jack.
19. Reconnect front shocks.
20. Reconnect front swaybar.
21. Remove jack from front axle.
22. Run airlines and find a suitable place to mount the air fittings. I drilled 2 holes my Snoway mount to mount the air fittings.
23. Reinstall wheels.
24. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
25. Inflate air bags to 50PSI and check for leaks.

And your done! I usually run the bags at about 40PSI when the plow is on and lower them down to about 10PSI when the plow isn't on.


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## xrdirthead

Thank you very much!

I really appreciate the time you spent to explain the installation in detail. That will be really helpful. I hope you don't mind if I ask some questions about your set up.

Are you using the joy stick to control your plow?

Do you run a strobe or spinning light?

Is there a *need *to weight the rear end?

Thanks,
Ed


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## festerw

Ask away on the questions!

I'm using a converted Meyer Slickstick to control mine, it's hose clamped to the shifter..not pretty but it works great. I'll see if I can get a pic for you.

I've got a Galls Responder II halogen rotator mounted to one of the roof rack bars. I'll get a pic of that too.

You probably don't NEED to run weight but it will give you much better traction and will help counter the weight on the front axle. I would definately run the weight, you can pick up tube sand bags from Home Depot or Lowes for around $3 I use 3 of them in the back.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks again!

I'm guessing the Curtis joy stick should work for me. Since we have the same vehicle is there a certain spot where I should have the joy stick installed?

So you leave your light rack on all year long or do you remove it in the spring.
It looks like the magnetic mounts are 12v powered and the permanent are hard wired. I'm guessing it would be easier just to leave the thing up there if it is hard wired unless it could be unplugged at the light. I think I would like the clear dome with amber lights on both sides. How is your wiring set up?

Weight in the rear sounds like a good idea. Some people are putting the tube sand in "Rubbermaid" containers with sealed lids. 
So I think I'll spring for the airbags in the rear too.

Check out this pic of a really cool looking Cherokee. The light bar is awesome...


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## xrdirthead

750lbs on the front of a Cherokee?wesport

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8052906506&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I saw this on ebay but I'm guessing this would croak my Jeep in no time flat.


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## festerw

LOL, the pic you posted is my Cherokee, that's from our 1st storm this year pushing around 2 feet.

Like I said I have my joystick mounted to the shifter but there is all kinds of spots on the console to mount it.

I bought the magnetic light bar so it has the cig lighter plug on it and it is just bolted to the rack so I can take it off in the spring takes about 5 minutes. Bolt it back on in the fall and just run the wire through the rear passenger door.

Yeah 700lbs would be terrible for it, you could do it...but not for long


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## xrdirthead

LOL...I found that pic from one of your previous posts.

Is your dome clear with amber filters? Is this your dome?

http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=LB242&cat=2713

or this one:

http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=LB242&cat=2713

The first link is the link you sent me but on that page it states
"To order a clear dome with colored filters click here" 
The second link shows a different one but includes both magnetic and permanent mounting and the ability to order the colored filters with the order.


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## festerw

Mine was the magnetic mount with clear dome and amber filters. I ordered it with the filters so I must have used the link on the page.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks again for all your help!

I was wondering if you leave the pressure in the air spring kits or do you raise and lower the pressure each time you add or remove the plow or your trailer. Is this kit made so you could add and release air from inside the vehicle easily?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AIR%2D25004&N=314553+115&autoview=sku

Thanks,
Ed


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## festerw

I usually just set the pressure and 40 & 40 for the winter and check it every month. During the summer I'll set the front to 10 and rear to 20 and if I need to pull something heavy I'll bump the rears up to around 60.

Yup that kit will make everything easy from inside, I have a small rechargeable compressor that I use and keep in the Jeep and usually just check the pressure whenever I check the tire pressure.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks again. 

Adding to my ever growing parts list!


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## xrdirthead

I guess I could do without the air kit and just leave the pressure up for the winter but my Jeep rides pretty stiff already I don't think I could handle it going down the road like a hard tail motorcycle all winter long. I guess it all depends on how tough it is to pressure them up and down. Are your air fittings easily accessible?

How much plowing are you doing with your Cherokee? I'm just debating how much time I really want to be out there plowing and how much my little Jeep can handle.


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## festerw

The air fittings are easy to access.

The rear are on angle brackets mounted to the bumper









The front are mounted on the plow mount









I have each bag plumbed separately so I can level it side to side if there is an uneven weight but with a tee you could have one fitting for the back and one for the front.

Also here's a pic of how I mounted the lightbar









I plow my driveway, my wife's parents, my parents 1/4 mile driveway and the parking lot at the family business. Nothing for $$ just personal stuff. You will be suprised how much your little Jeep can handle. If your Cherokee has the full time 4wd option it's even better since you can make fairly tight manuvers without the front axle binding.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks again!

Those are great pics. It does look like I could save 300 and just air them up and down like you were. 

Nice installation of your light bar. Did you cut something in half for a spacer between the roof rack rail and the llight bar? 

Looks like you work your Cherokee pretty good and she is holding up fine. That makes me feel a lot better about putting the plwo on. I know I have to be really careful about not hitting anything hard because of the lack of full frame under the Jeep. 

I see some plow have a second blade for back dragging snow. Can you still back drag fine with out the added blade?

Thanks,
Ed


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## festerw

To mount the light bar I drilled 3 holes in each side of the bottom of the light then used some 1 inch flat aluminum and bolted it all together with the center bolt down through the roof rack using a rubber furniture pad as a cushion since the roof rack isn't flat.

I've never had a problem back dragging but I really do not do that much. If you have alot to do Snoway offers a down pressure option on their plows to help.


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## xrdirthead

The more I read the posts here the more I find people really like the down pressure option on the Sno-Way plows. I'm guessing with a light weight plow the down pressure would come in real handy.
These are my local dealers:

Blizzard
Distance: 1.5 miles
Time Travel: 4 minutes
Damian Diesel, Inc.
108 Bodwell Street
Avon MA 02322
508-588-5970

Curtis
Distance: 3.6 miles
Time Travel: 8 minutes
WOODWARD'S AUTO SPRING SHOP, INC
148 NORTH MONTELLO STREET
BROCKTON, MA, 02301
508-586-8032

Meyer
Distance: 14.5 miles
Time Travel: 26 minutes
WESTERN PERFORMANCE AUTOMOTIVE
213 WASHINGTON ST
WEYMOUTH, MA 02188
Phone: 781 337-1713
[email protected]
Fax: 781 331-2747

Snow-Way
Distance: 29 miles
Time Travel: 52 minutes
Equipment Suppliers
142 Franklin St.
Melrose, MA
02176
888-891-7569
http://www.plowparts.com

I don't know how often I'd need my dealer after the sale but the Sno-Way dealer is on the North side of Boston and I'm on the South side so it would be more like 75 to 90 minutes each way. 
Do you have the ST or MT version?


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## festerw

Mine is actually about 10 years old and one of the older DX model series close to the ST series now. I had to change a hose and one of the solenoids this year but had no other problems.

Blizzard/Curtis/Snoway are all that I wouldn't be afraid of, Meyer on the other hand is what I had on my old truck and had a ton of problems with it.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks.
That makes me feel better about dealing with the Sno-Way dealer.


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## xrdirthead

I have been digging in these forums and found a company that will customize Gabriel Hijackers air shocks so they will fit the Cherokee. They are $98.00 a pair with air lines and shipping.
http://www.shockshopusa.com/monroe-shocks.html

Here is the email I received back after inquiring.

_Hi,
They are Manufactured by Gabriel Hijackers with slight mounting
modifications BY US, to match the end mountings of your shocks,
Basically all the air shocks are of the same internal design, 
This is the nature of our business, that is, supplying Custom-fit
Hijacker to fit most unlisted air shock applications.
We have been doing this for over 32 years for our HAPPY customers From
ALL OVER THE WORLD.
After all this time and the many thousands of shipments, we have NEVER
received a complaint about our workmanship. _

I would appreciate your thoughts on air shocks vs air bags.


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## xrdirthead

JC Whitney looks like they have the shocks to fit without mods.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductBrowse/refId-20004501/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2006168/c-10101/p-2006168/N-111+600012592+2001+20004501/tf-Browse/s-10101


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## basher

xrdirthead said:


> I would appreciate your thoughts on air shocks vs air bags.


Shocks are not designed to be load carrying. They control unsprung weight, and body motion. Air bags are designed to be weight carrying, and control body roll. I prefer air bags (or timbrens) for that reason. Jeep had a part number for an air shock kit for use with CJs and wranglers in snowplow applications. They might have a XJ part.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks Basher. I have read many of your posts and respect your opinion. The websites selling these shocks advertise them as though they should be used to carry heavy loads. Maybe some good shocks and the air bags would be better in the long run.

http://www.shockshopusa.com/gabriel-shocks.html
_
Gabriel Hijacker Air shocks 39000 Series - $68.00 PAIR *
For vehicles that have a direct listing for Air shocks. Designed for vehicles that haul boats, trailers or carry heavy loads. They inflate like tired, hold up to 200 PSI, provide up to 1100 lbs of extra lifting capacity, improve handling and prevent bottoming out, and are djustable to different PSI for improving stability and improving ride conditions or ride preference. For Cars & Trucks

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductBrowse/refId-20004501/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2006168/c-10101/p-2006168/N-111+600012592+2001+20004501/tf-Browse/s-10101
 
EXTRA HEAVY-DUTY AIR SHOCKS 
Add up to 1,100 lbs. of carrying capacity 
Stabilize truck and keep it level regardless of load 
Cushion ride and smooth out bumps 
A must when carrying extra loads, hauling or towing. 200 psi maximum air pressure. Diaphragm won't rupture even without air in system. Kink-resistant and leakproof air hose. Heavy-duty 1-3/16" piston. Install easily to OEM positions-no alterations. Extended limited 50-month warranty. Shocks adjust easily at service station or order air control kit (sold separately; SKU# 13ZX3736A) so you can adjust shocks as you drive. Hardware and instructions included. Not available for trucks with rear struts or with self-leveling system; check truck before ordering. Sold in pairs.

_


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## basher

Air shocks will do the same job as air bags, it's the mounting points that are a concern. They are not designed to be weight carrying, as i said before shocks are about ride control. We repaired more then one early 70's Camaro(second generation body style) rear shock mounts when air shocks punched through the upper mounts. You didn't want to be sitting in the back seat when it happened.


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## festerw

I can't give an honest opinion about air shocks never used them, I will say though the upper shock mounts on the XJ's are not real beefy.

Jeep no longer has any air shocks available, I checked when I was looking for front ends support.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks!
Air Bags and some Monroe Sensatrac's for the suspension all around.
I'm thinking some Blizzaks on a second set of rims might be a good idea as well.

Question about plow weight. 
The Sno-Way has a model MT 6'8" weighing in at 422 lbs. The main reason I'm thinking of this model over the ST is a better scrape with the added lbs and more down pressure (bigger cylinder)with the MT over the ST. The extra height might help on stacking also. 
Any reason to stick with the ST line for the Cherokee? (or 22 if they come out with a mount for a 01 Cherokee)


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## basher

I can not think off any reason not to go with the MT. Particularly since you are adding suspension assist. To save on the weight, go with the Poly wearedge and the poly blade, saves 30/40 lbs and performs as well. everybody who uses them loves them. I'm trying them on my vee blade next season. The MT is a stronger unit all the way around. Better Hydraulics, less blow over, more steel in the blade, swing frame and A-frame. Weight isn't as big a factor when you have proper attack angle. Properly designed plows don't ski regardless of their weight. Plus with the appox. 250 psi advantage of DP you can create both weight and better rear wheel traction in a heart beat. With most blades when the rear wheels spin you lift the blade for less resistance. With the snoway you hit the DP button to increase rear loading and plow on. I think the 80" MT poly with a poly wear edge would be the proverbial "bomb" for your truck. We have the mount in stock if you need one. 
I'm thinking about trying this Norkain tire all the guys are raving about, I know the Goodyears that came on my dodge are worse then banana skins, they fool you into a sense of false security because they have tread.


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## xrdirthead

http://www.tiresbyweb.com/showproduct.aspx?Productid=5183&ProdVar=28928

Those do look nice!

The Sno-Way MT with the Poly wearedge and the poly blade sounds like the plan!


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## xrdirthead

I just came across this article. I think he must have spent more time writing it than the actual process. 
Articles like this and forums like Plowsite.com are what make the internet so great!

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xj_cooling.html


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## xrdirthead

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+LM-18

Can't sleep. Thought I'd post a pic of the Blizzak. I wish


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## festerw

The extra set of tires/wheels is a good plan, if you were closer I have a set of stock wheels I could sell you for cheap but shipping would be a killer.

The Blizzak's are nice but too much $$ for me. I'm running the Mastercraft Courser MSR's and couldn't ask for a better tire plus they were only around $60/tire installed when I bought them last spring.


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## xrdirthead

The Master Craft Courser MSR's sound like a bargain at $60.00 installed. I couldn't find the Blizzaks in stock anywhere online so I'll have to see what the price is come fall. 
The Nokian Hakkapeliitta SUV tires Basher mentioned look nice. They are about $120.00 a piece online. 
My rims will set me back about $35.00 a piece from the local salvage yard.


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## festerw

xrdirthead said:


> The Master Craft Courser MSR's sound like a bargain at $60.00 installed.


I got that screaming deal on some leftover's from the previous winter, but I know they aren't as expensive as the Blizzaks.


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## PLOWMAN45

Id get the curtis plow


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## xrdirthead

The down pressure is a big plus for the Sno-Way.


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## xrdirthead

Bought some shocks. Put the fronts in but the weather has been bad lately so the rears will have to wait.


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## festerw

Make sure you soak the upper shock mounts on the back for about a week before you take them out and a little heat on them doesn't hurt either. The bolts are prone to breaking so have a few extra on hand if you need to fish some new bolts in.


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## xrdirthead

Thanks.
I have been hitting them with some PJ Blaster. 
I will grab some fresh bolts just in case.


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## xrdirthead

My Jeep is all set now. New shocks, transmission cooler, air bags front and rear.
Now all I need is the plow  
and some snow...


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## PLOWMAN45

are you going get a curtis ?


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## xrdirthead

I think I really like the down pressure Sno-Way offers. I wouldn't rule out a Curtis or a Blizzard either. I have a Blizzard dealer in town and a Curtis dealer one town over.
The Sno-Way dealer is on the North side of Boston and I'm down on the South Shore so it wouldn't be as convenient to deal with. 
I have dealt with the Curtis dealer for leaf springs on my cube van and also on a trailer and had no problems with the job they did and they had great customer service. I will visit the Blizzard dealer and see what kind of operation they have. I think the dealer is almost as important as the plow going on the front end. I have been in contact with the two local Snow-Way dealers and they were both very helpful on the phone.
Money will also be a factor since I wasn't planning on putting in a new septic system....:crying:


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## xrdirthead

Bought a Sno Way MT 6'8" right from the factory. What a score! Just under $3,100.00 shipped to Boston with down pressure and wireless remote.


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## PLOWMAN45

snow way huh not my type of plow but good luck


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## xrdirthead

PLOWMAN45 said:


> snow way huh not my type of plow but good luck


Thanks! I think....?


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## PLOWMAN45

Its all prefrence


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## xrdirthead

Plow is installed! 
I'll post some pics soon.


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## xrdirthead

Finally!


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