# 4wd Not Working 02' F-250



## infineon954 (Dec 12, 2004)

On my 02' F-250 I went to engage 4WD from the cab swtich and soon realized that 4WD does not work. I can hear the vacuum engage. However, all I get is a clunking sound. Can it be the cheap potmetal that may all be munched up ? Perhaps a vaccuum line problem ? Any takers on this one ?


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## RYDER (Sep 19, 2005)

It sounds like it may be the transfer case.


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## Team_Yamaha (Nov 30, 2002)

The problem sounds like a servo (little electric motor) in the T-case. Super Dutys don't use vaccum lines, all eletrical in your case. There has been problems with the servos and switches, that other people have found out about. Basically the ESTF (electronic shift on the fly) components are not built (IMO ment to) get used as much as the manual shifting/manual lockout systems are. The system is great for the average "Joe", but for plowing manual set-ups are the way to go. Best bet is to take it to the dealership and have them fix it.


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

the hubs are vacumn operated on some sd's but I would look at the lockout hub as we had two this week that were corroded and gummed up bad enough that they wound not move.


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## tawilson (Nov 21, 2003)

I've got the manual hubs, but I thought you could engage the auto hubs manually.


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## 84deisel (Dec 2, 2003)

you can .vacumn locks the hub in auto mode.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Get under and see if the stuffs plugged in on the transfer case, pull the connectors off and put dielectric grease in the connectors. Check the wiring. Those setups freeze up all the time since invented or the motor dies. I like my setup, just reach down and pull the lever under muscle power. If it get stiff I get under and spray it with wd40 and shift it till free.


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## Eyesell (Nov 7, 2003)

I don't want to sound stupid here or anything  but can someone explain what the lock out hubs do exactly. I mean I have an idea but always read conflicting info on this site. I have an 05 SD and I believe it says AUTO on the front hub, when I put the cheap switch to 4WD and don't manually lock that hub what is actually taking place ??

Is the switch in the truck better known as the "Average Joe" switch for the sometime 4x4 guy and not plowers ??

I guess I want to know if I should change these out to Warn Hubs or something like that ?? Team Yamaha you seem to know alot about this, look forward to your and others responces.

Thanks in advance.


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## tawilson (Nov 21, 2003)

If the autolocking hubs don't work then you can lock them in manually. That's why I mentioned it earlier, thinking it would help to isolate the problem.


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## Team_Yamaha (Nov 30, 2002)

Eyesell, glad to see the you are back around the site again, havn't heard much of quite a few of you guys since spring thaw.

The problem 9 times out of 10 is either the switch in the dash or the servos in the T-case. Not the lockout hubs like the 90-97 trucks with auto hubs. With the constant shifting in/out of 4WD that we do with plowing the motors and switchs gum up or just plain wear out in the ESTF system. I know of quite a few people (farmers, plow contractors, home contractors) that have had these problems, since they are using 4WD alot more that the "Average Joe". Last year one of my dads plow trucks (03 F350 CC DRW with 9.5' Western MVP) had this problem, the driver was plowing at one job. Got done and left for the next, a couple miles away, when he got there he flipped the switch and nothing. The motor endedup being burned out on only its second season.That is reason that I order my trucks with manual hubs and manual T-case, basically a bullet-proof system, and I don't have to relay on electronics, just a little arm muscle...


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## Eyesell (Nov 7, 2003)

I know exactally what your talking about, never thought of that when I ordered mine. You more-or-less have a shifter on the floor right ??


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

tawilson said:


> If the autolocking hubs don't work then you can lock them in manually. That's why I mentioned it earlier, thinking it would help to isolate the problem.


Ditto, had the same problem on my '00. The vacuum seals were leaking on the hubs, stealership wanted like $800 to replace them. This was after having problems on and off the first couple years, wouldn't engage at first, then no problems, then wouldn't. Finally locked them manually and used the switch. Asked if the manul hubs fit on it, they do, installed them for half the cost, lock 'em in at the beginning of the season and unlock 'em at the end. No more problems with the BS vacuum shifter or seals hopefully working.


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## plowman350 (Jul 19, 2004)

*shift on the fly*

My 03 350 SD has the "shift on the fly" switch and the hubs give me auto/manual options. What is the difference between turning the hubs to manual on the original equip vs. installing manual hubs?

I usually flip the hubs to manual before I leave, and use the shift on the fly switch to engage/disengage the actual drive connection to the front hubs. Problem I'm running into is that when I switch out, a lot of times it leave it engaged.

I understand that going to manual option on the hubs keeps the drive spinning, but it isn't actually engaged to a powered drive source until you switch that cheap little switch.....someone correct me or give suggestions if you would.

Thanks!


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## Elsewhere (Sep 24, 2004)

*2003 F250 Super Duty....has same*

My 2003 has the same hubs. In Auto, they will lock in from a vacuum source
when the on-fly switch is moved to 4wd. Sometimes you may have trouble with the vacuum either not working or the vehicle may not roll enough for them to engage. Example, putting in 4wd when already stuck. Then you would get out and use manual lock.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

The older Fords with auto hubs used have a sticker on the driver's visor. It told you to back up 10 foot in a straight line to disengage the Auto hubs.
After the truck gets a few miles on it this maybe the way to get them to disengage all the time. The hubs might need cleaned and serviced if they have had a lot of use.


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