# Meyer E60 7.5' low voltage at motor post



## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

I have had a Meyer ST7.5 w/E60 pump for 2 years (bought used) and have had it working great during that time. This year it is causing me problems. First time it quit working and was stuck in the down position. Jacked it up and got it home and ran through a bunch of electrical tests. Finally took it to a Meyer distributor and after an hour they found the spot the solenoid was grounded to was bad. Moved it to a new location and it worked fine.

Plowed a few more times and now it won't run again. I have cleaned all of the posts and wire connectors and also replaced the bolts on the battery connector as they looked a little corroded. Ran through some more voltage tests and found that I am only getting about 7 volts at the motor post when I press the controlled button. The battery is outputting 14 volts when the truck is running. Should there be 12 volts at the motor post? I am thinkiyng that this is why it is not running. 

I have ran throught the troubleshooting steps in the Meyer manual and feel I have run out of options. The new ground is still good on the solenoid (even changed the solenoid) and still having the problem. When I was testing the voltage on the motor post, if I left the up button pressed too long, the wire was getting hot. I know the motor was working before.

Anyone got any ideas why the voltage would be dropping?


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## festerw (Sep 25, 2003)

Do you have 14ish volts at the solenoid output? how about at the grille connector?


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## no lead (Dec 10, 2008)

i say bad connection at the grill connector.


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

I will re-check the grille connector and check back on what I find out. Thanks.


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

I checked the grille connection and it was seated well and there is continuity in the wire. 

I tested the white wire on the solenoid and it is only reading about 7 volts. The positive wire is reading normal voltage. I stripped a little bit of the white wire at the connection in the cab of the truck and it is only reading 7 volts. Could the controller have went bad and only outputting 7 volts? This would explain why the white wire at the solenoid is only reading 7. I don't have another controller to check it with though.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Run a 12V jumper wire to the small post on the solenoid and briefly touch it to the post. Does the plow motor then run? If so then either the controller is faulty or the power to it is too weak, probably from a poor connection on the power wire.


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks. I will give the jumper wire a try once I get home.


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

It appears that my controller may be faulty. I opened it up and found I was getting 12 volts into the controller through the power wire, but only 7 volts outputting from the circuit board at the white wire. I have found someone with a Meyers plow who is going to bring his controller over to try it out. Thanks for your help.


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

Still waiting for they guy who was going to come over and check the controller. In the meantime, I checked a few other things and this is what I found.'

I unplugged the grille plug so nothing was going to the motor and hooked jumper cables to the positive & negative on the motor and then to the positive & negative on the battery and it only sparked. By bypassing everything else, should the motor have run if there was nothing wrong with it? So could I have both a faulty controller and motor?


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## georgel104 (Jan 1, 2010)

Try running a new ground wire directly to the motor scratch away some pain so it makes good contact. when the e-60 first came out i had one just wouldn't get a good ground through the base of the pump there isn't alot of metal to metal contact between the two


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

Is there a different ground wire on the motor than the post that is attached to the - battery terminal via the main cable? I may be missing something. With no other wires hooked up to the motor, I was getting continuity from my tester when I touched the + and - post on the motor. The only negative terminal I see in my diagram is the post nearest to the pump. The + post is on the motor side. I wouldn't think that I should get a continuity reading between the two.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

Is it a double stud motor? Where did you connect your ground jumper cable?


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

I have the single stud motor like this in the picture. I tested the continuity between the black and red connection and there was continuity. In my manual, it shows the red wire is + and the black wire is - .

Also, as I earlier posted, I hooked jumper cables to the red & black wire and then to the battery and only got a spark, no running of the motor.


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## B&B (Nov 4, 2006)

It's either time to clean the connections on the pump unit or replace the motor. And it will likely be the motor since they have a bad habit of holding moisture which causes corrosion internally. Same reason the E60's were discontinued. Couldn't keep a motor alive on them to save your butt  without almost constant preventative maintenance.

If you do replace the motor be sure to update to the double stud motor. Helps them live a little longer.


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## plowboy3006 (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks for the help everyone. After further testing of my controller, I found it was outputting the correct voltage so I was pretty sure it was the motor since I couldn't jump it.

I am glad plowsite.com is around to get help from people that know the answers.


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