# Making of a brine and spray tanks



## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

I will soon "within a couple of days" be building a brine making machine and liquid sprayer tank. These are my ideas on both with somewhat of a parts list. All opinions are welcomed I will take some with a grain of salt. No pun intended


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## Tbrothers (Dec 30, 2009)

Is the spray unit going in a pick up? If so How do you get the spray bar 25 to 30in off the ground if your going into the receiver hitch? I have ford and the hitch is only 20in off the ground when its empty.


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

Instead of dedicating 1 pump to the hose reel. What about each pump supplies liquid to 2 nozzles (dry boom). Put a 3 way valve inline of the supply to the boom. A simple turn of the valve and the liquid supply is diverted to the hose reel?

Brinemaker: Introducing water to the salt via tees above the salt will have a minimal effect on the salt. Example....when you start filling a swimming pool with a hose, the water is moving and splattering every where on the bottom of the pool. But once the pool fills up, the effect of the water hose is minimal at the bottom of the pool.....unless the hose is placed there. Put down pipes on those tee's and leave the pipe 2-3" up off the bottom of the tank.


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## White Gardens (Oct 29, 2008)

Kubota, after talking to you I have a quick question.

You mentioned using a bucket as a well in the center of the tank with the pump in it to keep the major salt debris out of it.

Would a sewage pump work and just place it in the center and let it chew the salt or do you think that would damage the pump over time?

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## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

Tbrothers;1354010 said:


> Is the spray unit going in a pick up? If so How do you get the spray bar 25 to 30in off the ground if your going into the receiver hitch? I have ford and the hitch is only 20in off the ground when its empty.


yes. I will try and get some pictures today. Get a pintle hitch and some u bolts, bolt 3/4" conduit to the hitch and put a quick disconnect on the the spray bar. Simple removeable and adjustable.


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## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

Kubota 8540;1354089 said:


> Instead of dedicating 1 pump to the hose reel. What about each pump supplies liquid to 2 nozzles (dry boom). Put a 3 way valve inline of the supply to the boom. A simple turn of the valve and the liquid supply is diverted to the hose reel?
> unless the hose is placed there. Put down pipes on those tee's and leave the pipe 2-3" up off the bottom of the tank.


Very good point as usual Kubota. That does make perfect sense. Should I just run straight pipe or put 90's or 45's on the ends to try and get a swirling affect?


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

On the small brine maker that uses the IBC caged tote tanks mine are straight open end pipes about 3-4" up off the bottom. By restricting them from (1) 2" pipe down to (4) 3/4" pipes it increases the pressure and creates more turbulence in the bottom of the tank.

Just got back from the city DOT that bought the evil twin big brinemaker,, the guys were playing with it trying to get used to making brine the day after, I delivered and set it up for them. They filled their 5,000 gallon bulk tank and ran out of storage tank space after just a few hours. They said they really didn't get a chance to run it. They were making 23.5% 850 gallon batches every 15 minutes. Took about the same to pump the made brine and refill with water. So, not being used to it and trying to get a routine in place, they were making 1,700 gallons per hour. They were extremely pleased.


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## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

Kubota 8540;1354306 said:


> On the small brine maker that uses the IBC caged tote tanks mine are straight open end pipes about 3-4" up off the bottom. By restricting them from (1) 2" pipe down to (4) 3/4" pipes it increases the pressure and creates more turbulence in the bottom of the tank.


I was thinkng about that today actually...


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

A couple of pics of an 5hp electric, caged, Brinemaker. Gets delivered to Iowa tomorrow.
















Shows the top tank plumbing and down tubes. Standing on a handy built on step that sheilds the motor and lovejoy coupling.


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## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

How did you reduce the 2" T to 3/4". It almost loks like the T is built that way. I avent een able to find one though.


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

firelwn82;1355472 said:


> How did you reduce the 2" T to 3/4". It almost loks like the T is built that way. I avent een able to find one though.


The 2 is reduced to 1.5 at the tee then 1.5 reduced to 3/4. The tee is 2x1.5x2, also used a reducing bushing


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

firelwn82

Have any progress pictures to post?

I have to start another 400 gallon tomorrow to ship out mid week next week to Randolph, Massachusetts


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## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

Kubota 8540;1355525 said:


> The 2 is reduced to 1.5 at the tee then 1.5 reduced to 3/4. The tee is 2x1.5x2, also used a reducing bushing


ah ok. makes sense. No I dont have any progress made. I did get the spray bar made up though. Been crazy busy thi week with the holiday. Hopefully next week I can grab the stuff I need and get this roling. Snow is on my heels.


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

Hubba Hubba lets see some progress pics, I didn't get my sprayer fix today.


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## firelwn82 (Feb 14, 2006)

Kubota 8540;1361951 said:


> Hubba Hubba lets see some progress pics, I didn't get my sprayer fix today.


Yikes.... I think you need some time away from sprayers and need to spend it with a lady.... ha ha.


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## pushinpaul (Nov 8, 2008)

Not trying to hi jack but Kubota, would you be willing to trade a couple of those totes in exchange for a the setup pictured above? I have access to a virtually unlimited supply for a very cheap price. PM me if you want


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

Kubota: On the picture showing the valve sides, what is the purpose of the two lower shut off valves and the horizontal pvc fitting to nowhere?


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## Plow man Foster (Dec 10, 2010)

DodgeBlizzard;1363929 said:


> Kubota: On the picture showing the valve sides, what is the purpose of the two lower shut off valves and the horizontal pvc fitting to nowhere?


Im gonna go on a limb and say the shutoff with the green handle (on the left) is so that he can hookup a bigger storage tank. Maybe one that has a different type of liquid... Then on the one on the right he can hookup anther storage tank after the brine has been made to empty the brine maker.

Also the horizontal Pipe to "nowhere" is probably for Air. So if both valves are shut off for a short period while the pump is still on it doesnt burst the other shut off valves While under suction pressure....


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

DodgeBlizzard;1363929 said:


> Kubota: On the picture showing the valve sides, what is the purpose of the two lower shut off valves and the horizontal pvc fitting to nowhere?


The 2 green handle valves are so you can use the pump independently from the brine maker. Suck from 1 tank thru the pump to another tank.

Stub pipe? The buyer had an idea he might add a 3rd tote and 5 more over flows. I said good luck? Let me know how it works out. All he has to do is cut off the cap and continue with his add on plumbing.


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

Kubota 8540;1354937 said:


> A couple of pics of an 5hp electric, caged, Brinemaker. Gets delivered to Iowa tomorrow.
> View attachment 103425
> 
> 
> ...


After building and running the first batch of brine, I noticed most of the water flow on the mix tank was going through the two down tubes closest to the wye coming into the mix tank. It was hard to tell due to the mixing going on but didn't see much if any swirling coming from the furtherest down tubes. I wound up installing a shut off just after the main wye going into the mix tanks so I can control the flow (restrict it slightly on the near side). It wasn't easy doing it after it was all plumbed. After I empty this first batch, I will put water only into the tank so I can see exactly how it is flowing. I was wondering if you had the same issue. The only thing we changed was we used sweep 90 degree fittings. I think that's what they were called. It's more of a gradual 90 instead of the normal direct 90 degree. I wanted to get the most flow out of the pump. I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it. I thought if I had to do over again, maybe set it up like a goal post and have the wye coming in directly between each side instead of in the corner. It got dark on me tonight, so hopefully I can get to it again tomorrow. Also, at these temperatures (not 60 degrees), am I to understand for every ten degrees below 60 degrees, I am to lower my reading by one degree. So if I'm suppose to be reading 23.5 at the nominal 60 degree water temp, but say the water reads 40 degrees, I should stop mixing when it gets to 21.5 ? Also wanted to mention I read another article that says you should remove any foam at the top of your measuring device while reading and also rinse your meter with clean water when you're done. Because salt water deposits may form on your meter and could give you false readings. I haven't seen that mentioned on this site, but thought I would share that info.


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

DodgeBlizzard;1373254 said:


> After building and running the first batch of brine, I noticed most of the water flow on the mix tank was going through the two down tubes closest to the wye coming into the mix tank. It was hard to tell due to the mixing going on but didn't see much if any swirling coming from the furtherest down tubes. I wound up installing a shut off just after the main wye going into the mix tanks so I can control the flow (restrict it slightly on the near side). It wasn't easy doing it after it was all plumbed. After I empty this first batch, I will put water only into the tank so I can see exactly how it is flowing. I was wondering if you had the same issue. The only thing we changed was we used sweep 90 degree fittings. I think that's what they were called. It's more of a gradual 90 instead of the normal direct 90 degree. I wanted to get the most flow out of the pump. I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it. I thought if I had to do over again, maybe set it up like a goal post and have the wye coming in directly between each side instead of in the corner. It got dark on me tonight, so hopefully I can get to it again tomorrow. Also, at these temperatures (not 60 degrees), am I to understand for every ten degrees below 60 degrees, I am to lower my reading by one degree. So if I'm suppose to be reading 23.5 at the nominal 60 degree water temp, but say the water reads 40 degrees, I should stop mixing when it gets to 21.5 ? Also wanted to mention I read another article that says you should remove any foam at the top of your measuring device while reading and also rinse your meter with clean water when you're done. Because salt water deposits may form on your meter and could give you false readings. I haven't seen that mentioned on this site, but thought I would share that info.


Best thing I can tell you is to experiment with it and see what you think works best. I have had guys tell me they laid a screen under the overflow tubes as a filter? Makes sense and easy to clean too.

Wye? or did you mean a Tee? I don't seem to have a problem with any of the 3/4" down tubes. When restricting 2" to (4) 3/4" there is plenty of volume to go around. The square IBC Tote tanks work fine for the money but the round bottom horizontal tanks still work best.

I try to keep things as simple as possible, I make brine Spring and Fall when it's about 60 degrees. I don't remember what the formula for temperature correct is. You should be able to look up your salimeter manufacture to find that info or a internet search.

Removing foam would be a good idea, it could cause a false reading. I wipe my test equipment clean and dry after using it. Yes it can get a salt residue build up.


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

Kubota 8540;1373286 said:


> Best thing I can tell you is to experiment with it and see what you think works best. I have had guys tell me they laid a screen under the overflow tubes as a filter? Makes sense and easy to clean too.
> 
> *We originally had a bathtub style drain cover on the inside of the overflow but it would slow the flow of the gravity flow because of debris. So yes we have laid a screen on top of the lower tank also.*
> 
> ...


Thanks for taking the time to learn me. lol


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

Anybody have any knowlege on measuring the salt content after mixing brine? I just started doing this and unfortunately the water temp. is 40 degrees while mixing. From what I've read, the meters are calibrated at 60 degrees. For every ten degrees colder, you're to lower it by one degree. Same as if it's warmer then 60 degrees. So I measure the first batch and it reads 21.5. Should be perfect because of being 40 degrees. I decide to take some brine home in a five gallon bucket to double check and see what it's like at room temperature. The next morning, I'm still getting the same exact 21.5 reading. Then I think well maybe the fresh sediment/dirt may have affected my readings because the brine looks almost clear with a small amount of sediment at the bottom. Not sure if that would affect it or not. I decide to stir the mix and I still get the same reading. I want to make sure I get the mix at the right level. Any input would be appreciated.


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

DodgeBlizzard;1378668 said:


> Anybody have any knowlege on measuring the salt content after mixing brine? I just started doing this and unfortunately the water temp. is 40 degrees while mixing. From what I've read, the meters are calibrated at 60 degrees. For every ten degrees colder, you're to lower it by one degree. Same as if it's warmer then 60 degrees. So I measure the first batch and it reads 21.5. Should be perfect because of being 40 degrees. I decide to take some brine home in a five gallon bucket to double check and see what it's like at room temperature. The next morning, I'm still getting the same exact 21.5 reading. Then I think well maybe the fresh sediment/dirt may have affected my readings because the brine looks almost clear with a small amount of sediment at the bottom. Not sure if that would affect it or not. I decide to stir the mix and I still get the same reading. I want to make sure I get the mix at the right level. Any input would be appreciated.


From what I have read, it's the same. For every 10 degrees cooler subtract 1 percent. Did you take the waters temp? When was first mixed then again after at home?


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## DodgeBlizzard (Nov 7, 2003)

I took the water temperature outside at the shop in the late afternoon and it was 40 degrees right after it it was newly made. Then I brought some home in a five gallone bucket, left it inside overnight which should have been room temperature at 70 degrees, checking it in the morning. Same reading. I didn't check the water temperature but being inside the house, it should have been room temperature.


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## Kubota 8540 (Sep 25, 2009)

DodgeBlizzard;1378668 said:


> Anybody have any knowlege on measuring the salt content after mixing brine? I just started doing this and unfortunately the water temp. is 40 degrees while mixing. From what I've read, the meters are calibrated at 60 degrees. For every ten degrees colder, you're to lower it by one degree. Same as if it's warmer then 60 degrees. So I measure the first batch and it reads 21.5. Should be perfect because of being 40 degrees. I decide to take some brine home in a five gallon bucket to double check and see what it's like at room temperature. The next morning, I'm still getting the same exact 21.5 reading. Then I think well maybe the fresh sediment/dirt may have affected my readings because the brine looks almost clear with a small amount of sediment at the bottom. Not sure if that would affect it or not. I decide to stir the mix and I still get the same reading. I want to make sure I get the mix at the right level. Any input would be appreciated.





DodgeBlizzard;1379031 said:


> I took the water temperature outside at the shop in the late afternoon and it was 40 degrees right after it it was newly made. Then I brought some home in a five gallone bucket, left it inside overnight which should have been room temperature at 70 degrees, checking it in the morning. Same reading. I didn't check the water temperature but being inside the house, it should have been room temperature.


I made brine Thursday and Friday this week. One day the water temp was 50F the next day colder outside water temp 47F decided to take a sample and warm it up to 60F. My salimeter was exactly how it should have been. Water temp of 50F reading was 22.5%, same sample heated to 60F reading was 23.5. So I would say -1% reading for every 10 degree cooler water temp. YES.


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