# not getting spark



## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I have a 1987 F-150 straight 6 cyl. and it's not getting any spark. I replaced the coil, but it's still not getting any spark. Can anybody please help?


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## vector6 (Aug 6, 2003)

what about the module on the side of the dist ?


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I'm sorry I forgot to mention that I replaced that also. I replaced that also that's why I'm totally stumped why I'm not getting spark. Thanks for the help.


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## boogiedown40 (Jan 2, 2004)

I had a similar problem with my 87. However I have a 5 liter in mine. The problem with mine was the fuel relay on the driverside fender well. make sure the fuel pump is turning on when you turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump does not turn on the coil will not give spark.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I disconnected the fuel line and the fuel pump is pumping fuel. This is very frustrating to go through this and everything seems to be working but it's just not getting spark. Thank you for the input.


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## Foxfire (Sep 25, 2003)

*No Fire*

Remove your Dist cap, have someone turn it over, check to make sure your dist shaft is turning. If it is not turning your timing chain or gear is GONE...


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I took the cap off and the shaft is turning. While I was there I checked everything and it all looks good. Just for the heck of it I replaced the plug wires, but still no spark. I can't find what's wrong with this thing. PLEASE help. 
Thanks, Dan


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## Foxfire (Sep 25, 2003)

*Eletronic Ignition unit*

Check your Electronic Ignition unit, or in some cases I have seen what they call a T.D.C sen go bad (T)op (D)ead (C)enter). Need more Info........


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## Foxfire (Sep 25, 2003)

*NO SPARK !!!*

Heres another thing to check, You will find a switch under your dash it's a emergency shut off, try resetting this switch.


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## rewoodworking (Dec 19, 2003)

the problem is it is a ford  calm down I'm joking 

my friend fried his distributor he changed everything and checked all he didn't to find out he fried it he changed it and it started 

just a thought


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

1) check for power at the ignition coil with a test lite. The + side should have power with the key on. 2) with a test lite check the other side of the coil check when cranking, lite should flash. If you don't unplug the spout connector(the little green connector near the distributor(2 wires with a plastic jumper) If you have spark when this is removed the distributor itself is OK and the problem lies elsewhere.3)if you have power with the spout jumper removed it is on to the computer system. You may have no power to the computer(bad power or ground, bad EEC relay, bad computer or wiring). If you don't have spark with the spout removed and you have power to the coil, the problem lies in the distributor. Get this info then repost and I can give you the next steps from there. Note: the vehicle should run with the spout disconnected if the distributor is OK but timing will be FIXED at base timing usually 10 deg. on a Ford.


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

The emergency switch under the dash is called the interia switch. This only shuts off the fuel pump.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

There is power on one side of the spout but there is no power on the other side of the spout. 
Thanks, Dan


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

Please read carefully my post above for testing. I assume you are saying that there is power at the + terminal of the ignition coil. It should flash on the other side when the engine is cranking.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

Yes there is power at the + terminal of the ignition coil, and yes it is flashing when the engine is cranking. The spout connector with the two green wires by the distributor has power on one side, but does not have power on the other side.


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

If it is flashing you are triggering the coil, so it should have spark.  Power to oneside of coil, flashing the other side- Right. I've got to go plow, lots to do, I'll check back later.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

yes after testing it the power is getting to the distributor, but none of the spark plug wires are getting power. The distributor shaft is turning when I turn it over. Does this mean the problem is either the distributor or the distributor cap? Is there anything else besides the module, which I replaced, that can prevent the spark plug wires from getting power?


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## meyer&western (Nov 10, 2003)

*fire*

hello i had a 88 ford do that i changed all the stuff and had no luck some one told to change the pick up coil in side the dist and that fixed it the bad thang is i spent over 150.00 and the pick up coil was 11.00 :realmad:


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## boogiedown40 (Jan 2, 2004)

When you say you got power to th distributor do you mean you are getting a good strong spark from the coil or are you saying that you have power to the modular thats on the distributor?


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I'm getting spark from the coil and I'm getting power to the modular on the side of the distributor. Thanks for the input.


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

If you are getting good SPARK from the coil (center tower that the coil wire connects to when the engine is cranking) the only things left are as follows. The spark travels through the COIL WIRE to the center terminal of the DISTRIBUTOR CAP to the ROTOR back to each individual terminal of the DISTRIBUTOR CAP through the PLUG WIRES to the SPARK PLUGS. If I am interpreting your description correctly I would guess you either have a bad coil wire, shorted distributor rotor or a bad distributor cap. Good luck let us know.


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## boogiedown40 (Jan 2, 2004)

JMR is right if you got spark from the coil then the cap, rotor, or coil wire got to be bad. There is just not to much left. If this is not the problem then you should take it to the shop.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I replaced the distributor cap, wires, and rotor but there is still nothing. However the cap is not scewing down all the way because one of the holes is striped. It looks like I'm either going to have to get another distributor or find a different way to hold one side of the distributor cap down. I think one of the things I replaced was the problem, but now that the hole is striped that must be another problem. I tightened it down as much as I could before it popped back out, but there was still nothing. I'm hoping that the distributor cap not being down all the way is the problem. Any suggestions on how to hold it down without buying another distributor? 

Thanks, Dan


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## Foxfire (Sep 25, 2003)

*Spark ???*

What color is the spark from the coil? Blue or Orange


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

I am puzzled, if you are answering my question correctly and following the test procedures, this vehicle should run. Try this test and post results.
I am assuming you have a test lite.
Connect wire from test lite to a GOOD ground.
Hold probe end of test lite 1/2"-1" away from center terminal of ignition coil.(it will not shock you if test lite is hooked to a GOOD ground)
Have a buddy turn the ignition key and crank the engine.
Is there a GOOD spark from the coil tower to the test lite?
The spark should occur consistently as the engine cranks.
Post the results to this test.


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## boogiedown40 (Jan 2, 2004)

Hey peanut46g, so what is going on now with that truck? Did you every get it going and if so what was the problem with it? Let us know.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I'm sorry I haven't got around to doing anymore then the last time I post, but I hope to get to it tomorrow afternoon. I really am stumped, but I'll try what JMR said to do.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

So it now runs Peanut?


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

nope I'm sorry guys it doesn't run. I'm sorry I haven't replied back I've been busy with this recent storm so that truck is on the back burner for right now. I'll post back when I get time to work on it more. 

Thanks a lot


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

If all Else fails get the Haynes single model manual for your truck. It will have the no start check outs in it. Most times all you need to test is a volt ohm meter. Remember some of the pollution controls can influence your ignition too. Did you have the ignition modual tested that you bought? I have bought 2 that were dead right out of the box! My Bronco II has eaten 5 in 14 years. My F-250's on it's 3rd. Ford has been class action sued over this design. Replace the dist cap too. I found they last about 2 years to the day, I date them with a marker now so I know when it was replaced. If you plow with the truck buy the heavy duty stuff, it lasts longer.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

Alright I finally go around to looking at that truck again today and my local parts store man said he's pretty sure he knew what it was. I don't know what it's called, but I know where it goes, and I can't figure out how to install it. It's located in the distributor, and can be seen when you take the cap off. it's underneath the part that turns, and it's bolted to the bottom. I can get it loose, but in order to take it out I have to somehow take out the shaft that turns. If you got what I just said and can give me any info it'd be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

The part you want to replace is the pick-up coil. in order to replace it you are going to have to remove the distributor from the engine. 1) set the engine on TDC. 2) mark were the tip of rotor points(use chalk or a marker) 3) mark were the rotor points in relationship to the distributor(these 2 steps will help you reinstall)4)unbolt hold down bolt and disconnect distributor wires(not plug wires).5) remove distributor.6) drive roll pin out of distributor gear. 6) remove gear(this may require a special dist. gear puller & installer) 7) once gear is removed dist shaft can be removed.(there are spacer and such when the gear comes off, remember their positions. 8)replace pickup coil 9)Reinstall everything in reverse procedure and reinstall distributor 10) set timing. Good Luck


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

I replaced an 84 Bronco II's distributer for like $90 if I remember right.It's a bear to replace that pickup on it because the shaft has to come out. It just does not come apart real easy.Spend the $15 at autozone etc and get the single model manual for your truck and do the no start check out on it. Most times all you need is a volt omh meter to test stuff. The computers do fail too and there is no way to really check them out, other then the no start check out procedures. 
Just don't start changing parts like crazy, it justs makes you madder when "that part" didn't do the trick either. Been there, done it.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

ok I finally got spark! The pickup coil was the problem. There seems to be another problem now though because it still won't start. The timing is right because on top dead center the rotor is pointing to 1. I'm pretty sure it's getting fuel because I can smell the fuel after I turn it over. Any suggestions? Thanks a lot!


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## JMR (Feb 24, 2003)

Since you have removed the distributor it may be in 180 deg. off. Just because the crankshaft is on TDC doesn't mean the engine is actually on TDC. The crank turns twice for every one revolution of the camshaft. The other thing to consider is the engine may be extremely flooded from all the attempts at try to get this thing running. A fresh set of plugs and an oil change(fuel in the oil) wouldn't be a bad idea. You can find true TDC by removing the number one plug, or with them all out since you will be replacing them, put your finger over the number 1 plug hole and turn the engine by hand. When compression pushes you finger off, you are close to true TDC. Then line up the mark on the crank and make sure your rotor points to #1 tower on the cap. If it does it should be close enough to start. Unplug the spout to set the timing. The spec. is 10 deg. BTDC.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Did you get the stripped screw problem on the cap corrected? That gap will cause no start too.
Take the keeper off the screw and take it out of cap, put a smaller diameter longer screw through the hole.Put a nut on it when it comes out of the distributer and tighten it down. I would write bolt and nut with an arrow to it (on cap) so you remember next time. Use no - seize on that stuff too. Make sure all the spark plug wire connections have dielectric grease on them. It will keep the shorts to ground from happening.


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## peanut46g (Jan 5, 2003)

I put a nut on the stripped hole on the distributor, it has a new set of plugs, and fresh oil, but it still wouldn't start. I'll try getting the distributor on 1 when it is exactly on TDC.


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## MickiRig1 (Dec 5, 2003)

Got a timing light I take it? Getting spark through the coil wire but not to plugs? The module may not even be firing anywhere near when it needs to. If you have not had it checked, I would still take the new module and have it tested. The last one I bought started the truck and it ran till warm. It quit, no spark, had new module tested, it went bad after 10 minutes of running. That was 2 years ago. If it's from AutoZone have it tested, if it's bad up grade to the heavy duty one they last longer. I have an 86 Ford V6 that if you unplug the computers engine temp sensor it quits. That's why I always say get the book and do the check out for no start. There may be a failure of another component that helps control the ****** of timing etc. (such as a knock sensor if it has one) The computers rarely go bad but there really is no way to test them other then to check what you are getting at the module.(voltages or lack of, etc.)


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