# Plowing gravel, revisited



## mtngun

There is an old but good thread here about plowing gravel. One of the suggestions was to slit a pipe and put it on the plow edge.

I tried the slit pipe, and it helped quite a bit. Instead of digging into the gravel, the plow slides along top of the gravel. It was much easier to push and didn't throw gravel into the ditch.

This is what the 2" schedule 40 pipe looks like after 2 months, despite welding wear beads on the bottom of the pipe early on.










So...... good concept, but not nearly sturdy enough. I plow gravel exclusively, (except for my access road which is one mile of 3" - 4" pit run). Yes, it suxs to plow, but not as much as getting snowed in like the winter before when I didn't have a plow.

I typically plow 22 - 30 miles after each snowfall. That's a lot of gravel so it's no surprise the pipe wore quickly.

I haven't tried conventional plow shoes, but don't think they would work well since my access road is rutted and uneven. The shoes sit in the tire tracks which are sometimes rutted, so I think the middle of the plow would be hitting the crown in the center of the road while the shoes wouldn't even touch the ground.

I ordered some 3/8" flat bar to make an angled edge. It may be quite a while before it gets built, since the plowing season is almost over, but I'll post some pictures when it's done. Even with the 3/8" flat bar, assuming it works as intended, I anticipate quite a bit of annual maintenance on the wear edge. But if it would last an entire season, that would be satisfactory.


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## Stumpman

I used 2 inch seclude 80 and welded caps on the end. I only use it for a few drives and a 800 foot access road.

Bill


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## magik235

The yard guard thread is below. There are other styles in addition to the pinched pipe.

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=47451&highlight=yard+guard&page=3


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## snocrete

cool stuff !!!.....never seen or heard of the pipe on the edge, to much pavement round here i guess?


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## ghlkal

magik235;764490 said:


> The yard guard thread is below. There are other styles in addition to the pinched pipe.
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=47451&highlight=yard+guard&page=3


In addition to what Magik has, look at the next page of that thread
http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=47451&highlight=yard+guard&page=4

and check out abbert55 -- he made a nice little "skid plate" that I'd like to try on my gravel drive.


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## mayhem

Maybe other considerations here, but what about changing the angle at which the plow mounts to the truck itself? If you were to cant it forward some more the cutting edge would be alot closer to vertical and wouldn't dig in nearly as much.


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## Tommy10plows

Channel locks and Metric Vice Grips, my two favorite tools !


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## pmorrissette

I usually pack-down the first couple of little snow falls by driving over it several times...makes a nice hard ice base, then I can plow all winter just like it was asphalt. When it gets a little soggy in the spring, I'll lift the blade an inch or so off the ground before I plow, the remaining bit of snow doesn't hinder driving and gets packed back down to reshape the base.


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## RipT

Sounds like that sch 40 pipe is working well for you MntGun. With the miles of gravel road you do, I would just prepare several split pipes ahead of season and consider them wear items. Sch 80 pipe would last a bit longer, but perhaps not enough to warrant the cost or extra effort in splitting them. Hard-facing certainly helps, but beware zinc fumes from galvanized pipe (I would avoid galvanized material for anything you are going to flame-cut or weld on. If you have to, only outside!)

I use a Western Rubber edge on my rock/dirt/gravel private road and it had held up well for 7 - 8 years now, but it does not see near the miles you do.

Good Luck


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## mtngun

I think I paid about $50 for the 2" pipe at home depot. Then it took half a day to slit it and mount it. Then it bent (slit opened up wide and pipe flattened out) first time I used it, so I added a couple of bolts in the middle, in addition to the 2 bolts on the end that most people use. While I was at it, I welded a criss cross pattern on the bottom of the pipe to prolong the life. I didn't have hardfacing on hand, so I just used 7018.

With all that, it still wore out after 1 1/2 months. That was not very cost effective, considering I don't get paid to plow.

While I was waiting for the materials for the new gravel edge to arrive, I tried using plow shoes, set to lift the blade about 3/4". The shoes didn't work at all. They kept catching on rocks and both shoes were torn off after one mile. Plus, the blade still snagged the rocks, too, because my road has far more than 3/4" roughness. Scratch that idea.

I considered the skid plate that attaches to the shoe mounts, as suggested on the other gravel thread, but that seemed weak for my purposes. It would put a lot of stress on the two shoe mounts, and I can imagine the skid plate getting bent up in the middle of the plow where it is not supported.

It's hard to describe how rough my roads are. You hear guys complaining about how manhole covers beat up plows. Well, imagine a entire road made of manhole covers.

The Mach II gravel edge is installed now and plowed about 28 miles yesterday. We had 6" of sopping wet snow on top of soft mud. It was hard pushing the sticky mess, but the Mach II seemed to perform as well as can be expected. I don't have a pic of the edge yet but will get back to that in a few days.


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## mtngun

Here's a pic of the Mach II gravel edge. It was constructed by welding 2 pieces of 3/8" flat bar to the standard plow edge, in a way that approximates the contour of a 2" pipe.









The mild steel flat bar did not cost much but I spent a couple of days welding it. The heat of welding warped the plate quite a bit and the bolt holes no longer line up, so I had a hard time bolting it back on. If you were going to have this made, it would probably be cheaper and stronger to have a shop bend the entire edge out of 3/8" AR plate (assuming AR plate can be bent).

I'll probably go back and add a few gussets. You would think 3/8" steel would be strong enough, especially since the angled shape adds stiffness, but it is already bent a little after only one plowing session.

I also plan to hard face the bottom edge.

Time will tell how this edge holds up.

I think the ideal gravel edge would be this shape made out of rubber or urethane.


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## mtngun

Winter doesn't want to quit just yet. Had another 8" today. I plowed over 25 miles of gravel, as usual.









Traffic congestion.









One of the access roads I plowed. Not even a real road, just a skid trail. No room to manuever, no where to put the snow, and a sharp drop off below.









Once the plowing season is over, I'll hardface the gravel edge, and do some other maintenance on the plow, so it'll be ready for the next winter.


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## mtngun

Hardfacing the gravel edge.









Several bolt holes were egged out. I cut out the old hole and welded in a patch made of 3/8" flat bar.


















There were also several cracks in the plow and frame that had to be welded up. All the bolts are being replaced, and the whole shebang got a coat of fresh paint. It'll be ready to go next winter. Meanwhile, 8" of new snow fell this morning. :bluebounc


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## 2COR517

First of all, nice truck. Tell us a little bit about it. Chains all the way around, serious snow removal. I admire your determination to make this work. Nice fabrication skills too. I think you're getting real close to a design that is going to work and hold up well.


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## 2COR517

Tommy10plows;765524 said:


> Channel locks and Metric Vice Grips, my two favorite tools !


Funny, my Channel Locks and Vise Grips are all Standard. My adjustables are metric though.


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## mtngun

Well, not such a nice truck, just a worn out rustbucket. But, it is perfect for plowing and woodcutting duties.

It barely made it through the plow season, trashing the front Dana 44 differential during the last push of the year. I'm still repairing that.

I find 4 chains necessary for gravel road plowing. Sometimes I will plow a light snowfall with only rear chains, but then the front end gets pushed around by the plow. Not good when you are on a narrow mountain road, and it's a long way down if you slide off the road.

The truck just recently acquired a detroit locker in the rear end. I've heard that lockers can be spooky on ice, but I think on the whole, I'll benefit from the added traction. Even with 4 chains, traction is an issue, especially pushing uphill, or busting through deep drifts.


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## 2COR517

Holding the blade up a bit will help you in many ways. Your cutting edge will last longer. More weight on the front tires will help keep you from getting pushed sideways. And you will reduce some of the pounding on your plow gear and the truck. How long does it take you to plow all 30 miles?


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## crmagr2

sorry if this is in the wrong place, but what did you use for a bit to drill through your moldboard. I am trying to fit a split pipe on but am having trouble drilling the holes.


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## mtngun

I tried using a hand held electric drill, but the moldboard (probably AR plate) work hardened after drilling about 1/8" deep. It is not impossible to drill AR but a hand held drill is not the way to go. 

I ended up torching the holes.

Sorry for the slow reply, 2COR517, I haven't been visiting the forum during the off season. Let's see, I typically start plowing around 3 - 4 pm and get home around 8 pm, so an easy 4 hours. I guess that averages 5mph. I probably average 10 - 15 mph on decent stretches but sometimes it takes an hour just to bust through a single drift, and some stretches require a double pass.

With regards to lifting the plow up slightly, sometimes I do, but bear in mind this is the furthest thing from a smooth road so it is impossible to control the lift height with any precision. If you lift it up 1" on smooth level ground, it will be up 8" inches sometimes and dragging other times. Most of the time it seems better to let if float.


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## crmagr2

thanks a lot. I will ask my neighbour If i can use his torch. Thanks


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## sday88

What is the best way to split a pipe to put on the bottom of the blade? Is there an "easy" way to do it with basic tools?

Thanks,

Scott


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## 2COR517

I would use a cutting wheel. Either air or electric...


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## EcoGreen Serv

I've found the easiest way to get a straight line is to use a cutoff saw.
Adjust the guide so the pipe slides along it.

Took this with my phone camera, Not a great pic but it will give you the idea.


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## sday88

EcoGreen Serv;874048 said:


> I've found the easiest way to get a straight line is to use a cutoff saw.
> Adjust the guide so the pipe slides along it.
> 
> Took this with my phone camera, Not a great pic but it will give you the idea.


Would this work with a metal cutting blade on a table saw? That's the best I got at home.

Do you have to make two cuts, or are you able to open up the pipe with only one cut?


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## wild bill

*tube*

that's a interesting idea ,i was just getting ready to try cutting one ,was going to try a saws all .but i am going to look at that way ,i have it marked for a 1/2 path for the blade to fit in .


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## EcoGreen Serv

sday88;874959 said:


> Do you have to make two cuts, or are you able to open up the pipe with only one cut?


I just make one cut then drive a 1/2" wide wedge I made by welding 2 scraps of 1/4" plate down the length of it. It springs back a bit so it's still tight. I should be getting back to it tomorrow so I'll take pictures as I go.

Bill, If you're using heavy wall pipe, have a extra wheel on hand and feed it slow. If you force it you will chip the wheel.


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## sday88

Thanks EcoGreen. I'll have to try to get mine split soon.

I've also been making a wheel assembly to put on mine. I took the front end off an old lawn tractor I have and cut the box frame betwen the wheels in half, bolted some angles on to widen it, and have it bolted to the plow frame. I still need to fab a tie bar to reconnect the two wheels. I had big plans to make something that I could adjust up and down with a jack or something but I'm kinda running out of time so I just did it as simple as I could for now. I still have a couple other bugs to work out. I'll post some pictures in a new thread once I get some more done on it.


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## wild bill

*pipe*

thanks ecogreen i have a new wheel on the saw now and 3 hanging on the wall .:salute:


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## wild bill

*pipe*

well it's back to the saw's all ,my ryobi chop saw's main pivot is in the way .:realmad:


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## 2COR517

wild bill;875419 said:


> well it's back to the saw's all ,my ryobi chop saw's main pivot is in the way .:realmad:


I was wondering about that. Eco's saw must have an offset pivot. Something to consider when buying a metal cutoff saw I guess. I think you will have much better luck with a cutting wheel. Once those few teeth on the sawzall blade doing all the cutting lose their edge it will be really slow going. I use a thin 4 1/2" cutting wheel on my small grinder..


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## KBTConst

Just take it to the local machine shop let them cut 1/2 inch cut in it it cost me nothing cause my friend works there but normay it would cost about $30.00 so how much is your time and blades worth it takes them about 30 min to do the job nice smooth cuts


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## sday88

KBTConst;879068 said:


> Just take it to the local machine shop let them cut 1/2 inch cut in it it cost me nothing cause my friend works there but normay it would cost about $30.00 so how much is your time and blades worth it takes them about 30 min to do the job nice smooth cuts


Yeah, this is what I'm going to have to do. I tried it myself with a metal cutting blade in my table saw. Needless to say, it didn't work out. :realmad:


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## Kenyou

EcoGreen, this is very interesting. Being that I am in the market for a cut off saw, I figured this would be a good reason to get one. What kind of saw do you have being others can't use their chop say to cut the pipe. They are ment to cut things off and not cut a slot in long pipes. There has got to be a way to line the pipe up and hold it straight as you push it through. I hope this works as I'm tired of raking graves in the spring.


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## EcoGreen Serv

Kenyou;879869 said:


> EcoGreen, this is very interesting. Being that I am in the market for a cut off saw, I figured this would be a good reason to get one. What kind of saw do you have being others can't use their chop say to cut the pipe. They are ment to cut things off and not cut a slot in long pipes. There has got to be a way to line the pipe up and hold it straight as you push it through. I hope this works as I'm tired of raking graves in the spring.


My saw is actually a El Cheapo chinese made one I got about 6 or 7 years ago at Princess Auto for $40. but the hinge is offset so it makes it a bit more versitile.

I posted some more pics here http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=90087


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## sday88

How well does a hand held angle grinder work?

I called some local machine shops and only one gave me a quote... $200 - $250!


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## M.S.P.M.

I only do one stone lot and thats at my rental property and all I do is raise the blade a half inch off the ground and I dont have a problem with taking any gravel away. But I dont do much in the way of gravel roads since there is almost none here in Buffalo N.Y.


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## woodsman

M.S.P.M.;893589 said:


> I only do one stone lot and thats at my rental property and all I do is raise the blade a half inch off the ground and I dont have a problem with taking any gravel away. But I dont do much in the way of gravel roads since there is almost none here in Buffalo N.Y.


Thats a fine way to do on a flat gravel road but mine is up hill for 1500 feet and i have to get it down close to stone or it will ice up and fast become impossible to get up and down.
I am south of buffalo and there are many gravel drives here. I am going to try the schd 80 and see how it works..


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## x.system

I just made one for my blade today with 2" sch 80 ($30) and a plasma cutter, used 1/4" flat stock for a guide and had it done and mounted in a little over an hour. I've got one dirt road I plowed last week that I tried lifting the blade and ended up wasting alot of time and still dug into the gravel here and there.


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## sday88

sday88;893330 said:


> How well does a hand held angle grinder work?
> 
> I called some local machine shops and only one gave me a quote... $200 - $250!


Another guy told me that he couldn't do it with a cutting torch because it would waste too much oxygen and it would take him all day. What's with these people near me?

Can someone let me know if a hand held angle grinder will work? I'm getting desperate.


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## EcoGreen Serv

sday88;893998 said:


> Another guy told me that he couldn't do it with a cutting torch because it would waste too much oxygen and it would take him all day. What's with these people near me?
> 
> Can someone let me know if a hand held angle grinder will work? I'm getting desperate.


Sounds like you have some real geniuses near you. The "Guy" obviously doesn't have a clue on how to use a cutting torch or select the correct nozzle. I used to zip through 5/8" steel plate with one.

Just as a note of caution, Yes a angle grinder will work. but using the right technique is important if you value your fingers.. Make sure you use a cutoff wheel and start a channel and make it progressively deeper That will make it easier to keep a straight line. Wear thick gloves and a face shield. let the tool do the work, don't force it.


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## woodsman

I think the simpliest way is to take the pipe to a tool rental shop and ask them what to use, they will have one and you could cut it right there and pay the guy for the rental..... easy stuff....


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## DurangoPlowing

*Seeking advice regarding irregular gravel applications:*

*1)* What speed is best when using a gravel guard?

*2)* Re: *"The gravel guard does not allow the moldboard to trip easily if you were to hit any hard object."

Q:* Could such an impact be enough to accidentally deploy the air bags in cab? Would it be prudent to pull fuses beforehand?
Release tension on trip springs?

*3)* Attached image is what I adapted for use on a few grav drives.
It isn't the thickest of metal, and wonder if it would help if I were to build up a few more layers for the sacrificial skid plates.

*4)* Following an on-site visit, this elderly gent (likely living on a pension) hasn't maintained his gravel driveway in what looks to be ages, and I have not yet replied to him.

Reason being, it's semi-circular, grades upward, stretches about 320 feet in length and crests in the center the whole way.
There's tire ruts on each side varying anywhere from 2" to 4". It also looks like it was once paved, long long ago.

My gut instinct and right mind says forget it, yet the left brain seeks a viable solution.
Am I correct in the first instance, or is there an alternative I'm overlooking?

ie: Drive over the ruts to compact them solid, then service once it appears leveled out?

Walk away?

*5)* Chains - when/where to use them.
Understandably, finished driveways would be off limits unless directed otherwise. So this question regards a rural, unpaved, serpentine car and half wide drive.

Angles fluctuate gradually anywhere from 25 to 35 degrees, is roughly 300 feet in length, compact.
Are fresh studded snows enough?
When should chains be considered, and would it be required on all 4, or just up front? (_4wd_)

Ballast? 300 lbs ok?
(_dressed plow on front is near 400lbs - truck has 2" lift and Sumo springs up front + Hellwig 500lb leaf helpers on back_)


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## tpendagast

Wow
I’ve akways used plow shoes , they’ve always worked 
Doesn’t the gravel get packed under the snow after the first few snow events?

Never knew there was such a thing as struggling with plowing gravel...


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## dieselss

If those "hangers' are wrapped around the pipe, they WILL get ground down as well and there goes the pipe.


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## DurangoPlowing

tpendagast said:


> Wow
> I've akways used plow shoes , they've always worked
> Doesn't the gravel get packed under the snow after the first few snow events?
> 
> Never knew there was such a thing as struggling with plowing gravel...


This ain't Alaska :laugh:


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## DurangoPlowing

dieselss said:


> If those "hangers' are wrapped around the pipe, they WILL get ground down as well and there goes the pipe.


Yes... realize that.
I did elaborate on the ground conditions as well, which tpendagast failed to acknowledge.

-So being it that they are softer metal, is why I wrapped a heavier gauge over top - ref #3.

To be more detailed here, if I were to thicken the areas over top of the hangers '_sacrificial skid plate'_ (_ref. 1.5" plate in image_), I figure it should extend 'wear time' and allow easy/fast replacement of just those 'metal coverings' BEFORE exposing the underlying hangers.

Now having clarified that, would the pipe (_fastened in 5 places_) have enough support, or would it require more?


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## dieselss

Any amount of extra material used to protect your 'holders' will take more weight due to them hanging lower then the rest. All that extra weight will wear them down faster and then your gunna break the holders.


How long you been plowing?


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## DurangoPlowing

dieselss said:


> Any amount of extra material used to protect your 'holders' will take more weight due to them hanging lower then the rest. All that extra weight will wear them down faster and then your gunna break the holders.
> 
> How long you been plowing?


Thanks for offering an intelligent answer to my question as that is what I seek. Since I don't have a welder at my immediate disposal, would it be better to run the bolts directly through the pipe and blade? 
-My background and experience is/was referenced in an earlier post.


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## scottr

DurangoPlowing said:


> *Seeking advice regarding irregular gravel applications:*
> 
> *1)* What speed is best when using a gravel guard?
> 
> *2)* Re: *"The gravel guard does not allow the moldboard to trip easily if you were to hit any hard object."
> 
> Q:* Could such an impact be enough to accidentally deploy the air bags in cab? Would it be prudent to pull fuses beforehand?
> Release tension on trip springs?
> 
> *3)* Attached image is what I adapted for use on a few grav drives.
> It isn't the thickest of metal, and wonder if it would help if I were to build up a few more layers for the sacrificial skid plates.
> 
> *4)* Following an on-site visit, this elderly gent (likely living on a pension) hasn't maintained his gravel driveway in what looks to be ages, and I have not yet replied to him.
> 
> Reason being, it's semi-circular, grades upward, stretches about 320 feet in length and crests in the center the whole way.
> There's tire ruts on each side varying anywhere from 2" to 4". It also looks like it was once paved, long long ago.
> 
> My gut instinct and right mind says forget it, yet the left brain seeks a viable solution.
> Am I correct in the first instance, or is there an alternative I'm overlooking?
> 
> ie: Drive over the ruts to compact them solid, then service once it appears leveled out?
> 
> Walk away?
> 
> *5)* Chains - when/where to use them.
> Understandably, finished driveways would be off limits unless directed otherwise. So this question regards a rural, unpaved, serpentine car and half wide drive.
> 
> Angles fluctuate gradually anywhere from 25 to 35 degrees, is roughly 300 feet in length, compact.
> Are fresh studded snows enough?
> When should chains be considered, and would it be required on all 4, or just up front? (_4wd_)
> 
> Ballast? 300 lbs ok?
> (_dressed plow on front is near 400lbs - truck has 2" lift and Sumo springs up front + Hellwig 500lb leaf helpers on back_)
> 
> View attachment 187735


I say this with respect to anyone that is new to plowing, OP, based on your questions, you should not be doing what your doing, you appear to have little mechanical experience or the ability to make reasonable decisions based around the use of a snowplow. Go out and find someone to ride with and observe. Again, this is not meant to slam your questions, but, your over your head or skill level and should be informed of that..


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## DurangoPlowing

@scottr
Respect acknowledged.

I don't say this of you in particular, though when one states they're new to something, is for some, akin to throwing red meat to the wolves.
Forums can draw out many personalities - and human nature dictates that some will even jump at any opportunity to express sarcasm and engage that portion of the brain which criticizes and belittles.
Luckily for me, I've thick skin, a great sense of humor and a kind heart- kind of 

So without further ado; obviously, I'm new. (_there's that red meat_)
However, not naive as have had many years experience and exposure with large equipment, back in the East, where everything was flat. _Stated this all before..._
*
'The horse has left the stable'*
Have spent months reading up in preparation - gearing up and moving forward. (_not a quitter_)
As men of character and integrity, we may learn from each other, to work together, share information, help others, so they too may have a chance to succeed where interested, rather than to risk failure due to insufficient knowledge and/or foresight.
Mistakes will be made, and prevention is a key asset.
*
"Seek, and ye shall find"*
The questions I pose(d) are in effort to attain some guidance through the experience of those who mean well and are trustworthy.

Re: _*"appear to have little mechanical experience"*_
-Appearances can be deceiving, and you've jumped to conclusions regarding my undisclosed skills which I'm partly to blame for - due to that shabby setup I presented with the pipe.
I worked with what I had on hand at that time, but will be revamping it with duct tape and a glue gun. (joke)

As for mechanical experience, I have quite a bit under my hat. Have had my share of hot rods in the day, rebuilt skis for several years, R&R engines, rebuilt carbs, installed top ends, rebuilt pumps, supercharges, oil pumps, done upholstery and hull repair. I also work with electronics, can burn my own boards, service SMDs, and platter swap hard drives, just to name a few. Not an expert; and like many of you, try to help myself whenever I can, to succeed, and maintain independence.
And something that may be clear and simple to me, may be to some degree overly complex to another, simply due to lack of exposure.
If someone is genuinely interested and expresses desire to learn (something I'm doing), I feel honored when I can help - and then seeing them progress on their own afterwords.

All said, I welcome constructive, positive dialogue and advice anyone has to offer.

Thanks for reading!


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## cwren2472

I have a simple question that it doesnt appear you've addressed. 

Have you ever actually plowed on gravel and determined that you need something more than the standard shoes that everyone else uses or are you simply reading online and deciding that you need to reinvent the wheel should you ever encounter gravel?


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## EWSplow

http://crystalsteelhouse.com/groundz-keeper-old.htm


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## Mark Oomkes

EWSplow said:


> http://crystalsteelhouse.com/groundz-keeper-old.htm


Do they make them for Meyer plows?


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## EWSplow

Mark Oomkes said:


> Do they make them for Meyer plows?


I'm not sure if you noticed the area code, but I'm sure they code answer your question if you call.


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## cwren2472

EWSplow said:


> http://crystalsteelhouse.com/groundz-keeper-old.htm


Is plowing grass (deliberately) a common occurrence? There's no snark here, it's an actual question. If theres a company making that thing, then I assume there is, but can't imagine why you would do that.


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## EWSplow

cwren2472 said:


> Is plowing grass (deliberately) a common occurrence? There's no snark here, it's an actual question. If theres a company making that thing, then I assume there is, but can't imagine why you would do that.


Yes. In the UP, they use lawns for parking. Beats having your car buried on the street by a plow.


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## cwren2472

EWSplow said:


> Yes. In the UP, they use lawns for parking. Beats having your car buried on the street by a plow.


That makes perfect sense.


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## Mark Oomkes

EWSplow said:


> I'm not sure if you noticed the area code, but I'm sure they code answer your question if you call.


Answer would be: Cheese...


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## EWSplow

Mark Oomkes said:


> Answer would be: Cheese...


Don't tell them you live under the bridge.


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## EWSplow

dieselss said:


> If those "hangers' are wrapped around the pipe, they WILL get ground down as well and there goes the pipe.


I'm on the fence on weather they will work or not.


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## cwren2472

EWSplow said:


> I'm on the fence on weather they will work or not.


You are not confident of the performance post installation?


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## Mark Oomkes

EWSplow said:


> I'm on the fence on weather they will work or not.


Nice...


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## Ajlawn1

EWSplow said:


> Yes. In the UP, they use lawns for parking. Beats having your car buried on the street by a plow.


In Wisconsin they use their lawns for parking, Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter...


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## EWSplow

Ajlawn1 said:


> In Wisconsin they use their lawns for parking, Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter...


Only when the vehicle is on blocks.


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## Ajlawn1

cwren2472 said:


> Is plowing grass (deliberately) a common occurrence? There's no snark here, it's an actual question. If theres a company making that thing, then I assume there is, but can't imagine why you would do that.


You might talk to @LapeerLandscape especially when trying to find your cable line...


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## Mark Oomkes

Wonder if cedar split rail or a pine split rail fence post wood last longer...


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## Mike_PS

ok, wrapping this one up


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