# 2000 Jeep TJ Plow Build Help



## Allagash (Mar 5, 2005)

I just bought a stock 2000 Wrangler TJ with the 4.0 liter 6cyl motor. It's an automatic. I ordered a new Blizzard 680LT for it that I'll pick up in a week as they're waiting on a mount for it. Right now she's in the shop having her frame reinforced and patched as she's got some rust on the frame but overall is great shape otherwise.

I'd like to put a mild lift on her. I'm thinking 3" suspension and no body lift. That should avoid driveline angle issues. I'm thinking of selling the stock Canyon style wheels with 30" tires and buying a used set of Rubicon Moab style wheels from a TJ as opposed to a JK with adapters. I want to run 32" or 33" tires with an aggressive tread.

I want to beef up the front end. What do you guys recommend for that? Timbrens? Or something else? Also, do I need to add weight to the back end via weights that hang off the receiver hitch with something I weld up and hang weights off of?

What do you guys recommend for a lift and beefing up the front end? 

Do I need a transmission cooler?

Thanks!


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## tsut (Nov 18, 2010)

Keep it "stock". And get Snow tires, not big ole four-wheelin tires. And search on what PlowMeister has done. I've heard a lift makes the plow angle become 'messy' if not done with the plow in mind. 

But have fun with the jeep. I started with my 2000 TJ for just plowing, and now now enjoy it year-round. 

Tom


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## novawagonmaster (Jun 16, 2014)

I agree with above... easier if you do not lift it.

Here is my 2000 Wrangler build thread:

http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=155330


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## micklock (Jan 6, 2008)

I'm running rubicon express 3.5" springs and shocks and it handles my plow fine with a little over 500 lbs on the rear bumper. I've got a 1" tc drop and running 35" BFG all terrain tires with high clearance fenders. Stock fenders you could run 33's. And I did upgrade the tie rod and drag link.


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## Allagash (Mar 5, 2005)

novawagonmaster;1911098 said:


> I agree with above... easier if you do not lift it.
> 
> Here is my 2000 Wrangler build thread:
> 
> http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=155330


I just read your thread. Very nicely written and great pictures. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the Jeep as it sat?


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## Allagash (Mar 5, 2005)

micklock;1911136 said:


> I'm running rubicon express 3.5" springs and shocks and it handles my plow fine with a little over 500 lbs on the rear bumper. I've got a 1" tc drop and running 35" BFG all terrain tires with high clearance fenders. Stock fenders you could run 33's. And I did upgrade the tie rod and drag link.


I'm not surprised that there are people on both sides of the isle on this issue. Some say don't lift, others are using a lifted Jeep with great results. How can it be?


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## novawagonmaster (Jun 16, 2014)

Allagash;1911242 said:


> I just read your thread. Very nicely written and great pictures. If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the Jeep as it sat?


Thanks for the kind words.
Without saying too much, I paid more for the plow than I did for the Jeep. 



Allagash;1911244 said:


> I'm not surprised that there are people on both sides of the isle on this issue. Some say don't lift, others are using a lifted Jeep with great results. How can it be?


Of course it can be done, but if you are just plowing, there is no need to lift it. By lifting it, you are creating more work in getting the plow to fit correctly (A-frame should be level). You are also adding the expense of the lift itself, and the expense of larger tires. Not to mention, the higher you go, and the bigger the tires you run, the worse they handle on the highway.

I am running 245/75R16 Blizzaks on mine, and those are about 30.5" tall. If I need more ground clearance than what those provide, I need a loader to move the snow anyhow. I don't do any real off-roading, so I have no use for a lift. Not to mention, as I get older, I want no part of jumping or climbing to get into the driver's seat.


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