# Drilling holes into frame?



## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

I do some Fisher plow installs on the side for extra $, and getting annoyed everyone seems to be buying Fords and they take ~10 holes to drill. Have been using a 1/8" pilot hole then a cobalt 1/2" bit from tractor supply in a Dewalt spade handle drill (here). Going slow with decent pressure, cutting oil...

Looking for other options to speed things up. What are the dealers that are members on the board here using?

- Perhaps investing in some higher quality bits would help, but think that would just keep them from dulling as fast, not necessarily make them cut faster? 
- Don't think a hole saw would be great for this, but could be wrong. 
- I think the best setup would be an annular cutter (aka rotabroach) in a mag drill, but the latter requires a roughly 4-5" square flat piece of steel for the magnet to stick to, which isn't available on the front of a full-size pickup. Unless I had something fab'd up on some kind of rolling cart...

Does someone make annular cutters for handheld drills that would work for this? Not sure the depth of cut available - what are most truck frames, 3/16 to 5/16" I assume?


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## BIG NICKY (Aug 17, 2014)

i like using the step bits because there are no pilot holes needed and they actually cut really fast. my two cents


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## AccuCon (Jan 31, 2013)

I havent used them but saw the demo and was impressed....Ever try Bad Dog Drill Bits?


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## BIG NICKY (Aug 17, 2014)

AccuCon;1852362 said:


> I havent used them but saw the demo and was impressed....Ever try Bad Dog Drill Bits?


i have not tried them but i do like the fact that they are warranted for anything


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## novawagonmaster (Jun 16, 2014)

X2 on the step drills (Unibits). Use cutting oil to extend bit life. My step drills last forever compared to regular bits.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Step bits are normally not an option with plow installs for two main reason. 

1st bracket is normally used as a template. Step bit would damage bracket and I personally don't want to keep taking the brackets on and off. 

2nd some holes need to be drilled all the way through the frame. This is impossible with step bits. 

We just use HSS bits and a lot of them. Cutting oil is a must.


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## jb1390 (Sep 23, 2008)

kimber750;1852755 said:


> Step bits are normally not an option with plow installs for two main reason.
> 
> 1st bracket is normally used as a template. Step bit would damage bracket and I personally don't want to keep taking the brackets on and off.
> 
> ...


If you are using bracket as template and a guide for drill bit you are correct. However, if you can briefly install bracket and mark for holes with spray paint or silver marker, the step drill will be far superior for ease of use.

You can drill from both sides sometimes, and if not, at least use the step drill for the first side.

And whatever bit you use, a pilot hole and lots of cutting oil will work wonders.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

jb1390;1852763 said:


> If you are using bracket as template and a guide for drill bit you are correct. However, if you can briefly install bracket and mark for holes with spray paint or silver marker, the step drill will be far superior for ease of use.
> 
> You can drill from both sides sometimes, and if not, at least use the step drill for the first side.
> 
> And whatever bit you use, a pilot hole and lots of cutting oil will work wonders.


Don't get me wrong, step bits are great. IMO not practical for most mount installs. I am too lazy to take a 40# mount on and off just to drill holes. Takes me about 20 minutes to drill all the holes for MM2 on a 99-04 f350 and this is one of the worst for drilling. Around here we get the drill bits from Fastenal, can by a box of 20 pretty cheap. On average 2-3 bits used per install.


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

Usually use only 2 bits to drill. One normal HSS, other is 16" long. I sharpen all my own bits though. This also helps - http://www.zipcut.com/ - I estimate ours has drilled at least 92,000 holes in frames in the years we've owned it.


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## AccuCon (Jan 31, 2013)

BIG NICKY;1852733 said:


> i have not tried them but i do like the fact that they are warranted for anything


Yup when I was talking to the lady I said so basically you want me to try and break this....She was like well...lol

It was very impressive demo though...When I need new bits I will def. try them out I want some of the 4.5" cut offs


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## Citytow (Sep 21, 2014)

last i checked , drilling of any type into a new chassis will result in a voided warantee. unless the driller is dealer certed. I could be wrong .


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## Dawdy Services (Apr 4, 2009)

I drill a pilot hole then use a 9/16 ream bit and it takes no time at all


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

Thanks guys. Guess my results aren't too far off, but I'm not quite down to 20 minutes for the 99-04 @#$% brackets as mentioned above. I'd say I average about 2 bits (not junk, just need to be sharpened) per install. 

LON - that thing looks awesome. I had seen once before, but pretty sure that unit is out of $ range. Ballpark price? That is the kind of idea I was referring to when I said "unless I had something fab'd up on some kind of rolling cart"  

I work fairly close to where the Bad Dog bits are manufactured so may have to try a few and report back...


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## TJS (Oct 22, 2003)

jb1390;1852763 said:


> If you are using bracket as template and a guide for drill bit you are correct. However, if you can briefly install bracket and mark for holes with spray paint or silver marker, the step drill will be far superior for ease of use.
> 
> You can drill from both sides sometimes, and if not, at least use the step drill for the first side.
> 
> And whatever bit you use, a pilot hole and lots of cutting oil will work wonders.


I never use a marker, paint or spray paint. You still have to get the center of your mark. I always use transfer punches. Saves time in the long run cause the hole is accurate. It lets you bring your hole tolerances closer which means less wobbe and movement, i.e. bolt fits tighter in the hole.
T.J.


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

Air Drill, cutting oil (fluid film) HSS bits and a helper to hold the drill while I turn the steering wheel and apply pressure by ear. Why try to fight the mag drill in when the truck has a press built in.

Spend less time drilling holes then it take to R/R the mount. As LON says instead of high dollar bits with fourteen odd cutting surfaces just keep sharpening a good old 135 degree HSS.


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

basher;1854633 said:


> ... and a helper to hold the drill while I turn the steering wheel and apply pressure by ear. Why try to fight the mag drill in when the truck has a press built in.


Sorry, you lost me


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## basher (Nov 13, 2004)

basher;1854633 said:


> Air Drill, cutting oil (fluid film) HSS bits and a helper to hold the drill while I turn the steering wheel and apply pressure by ear. Why try to fight the mag drill in when the truck has a press built in.
> 
> Spend less time drilling holes then it take to R/R the mount. As LON says instead of high dollar bits with fourteen odd cutting surfaces just keep sharpening a good old 135 degree HSS.





JFon101231;1854649 said:


> Sorry, you lost me


Many times you can use the front tire of the truck as a "press" to apply steady even pressure to the drill motor.

Use a air drill, electric drills will burn up quickly and they can break the holders wrist if they hang up.

You want a Slow drill (Snap on and Blue point both make a half inch drill 480RPM that works great) with power. Experienced users can tell if amount of pressure they are applying is right by the sound.

You can also throw a strap/clamp/chain around the frame or use a solid object on the truck and use a sledge handle or long bar as a lever, and the drill as the fulcrum.

Simple single angle cutting edge drills are easier to sharpen and work as well.


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## JFon101231 (Dec 5, 2008)

As I started to reread the quote to start your post it dawned on me  I guess with a helper to make sure the angle stays proper to keep from snapping a bit I could see some benefit, but I work alone. 

Thx for opinions. Anything else comes to mind fire off!


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## LON (Aug 20, 2006)

http://www.hougen.com/mag_drills/hmd115/ultra_low_profile_hmd115.html
Talked with the Hougen guy at an NTEA show once and he told me about the Golden Gate Bridge crew that used around 40 of these to pop holes in the side of the girders. Lunch time came, the guys headed off to eat and when they came back all the drills were GONE! About $30,000.00 worth of drills just vanished. Seems someone failed to check the fuel level in the big diesel generator and it shut off, sending all the drills into the Bay!


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## Citytow (Sep 21, 2014)

not too sure The GG Bridge can be drilled into . anywhere on it . zzzzz


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

right, it might void the warranty


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## Citytow (Sep 21, 2014)

LapeerLandscape;1855984 said:


> right, it might void the warranty


yep , well under "certain certed circumcisions like certed body fabbers . LOL. your good until you put a claim on your chassis . then they COMB it . 
says right on my '15 chassis "DO NOT DRILL"


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## LapeerLandscape (Dec 29, 2012)

I was referring to your comment on the GG bridge


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## Citytow (Sep 21, 2014)

LapeerLandscape;1855991 said:


> I was referring to your comment on the GG bridge


wrong thread .


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