# Western wideout melted power cable



## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

Hey, I am getting my plows ready for the season and while i was testing the plow up and down it started moving slower and slower until it quit. When I looked over the cables I saw the solenoid was hot and the wires were to so followed the battery cables and found the plug was melted on the neg cable side. I assume there was a bad connection where it was plugged in even though i cleaned the plugs out and put elec grease in them so I don't want to replace the cables on both the truck and plow for them to short out again. Maybe moving the ground cable from the frame of truck, directly to the battery will help but i'm just guessing at this point.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

If the bad ground was at the mounting point, it would be hot and burnt there, not at the plug. If there was a bad connection at the plug itself it would cause it to melt there. Either because the pin(s), either side, were corroded or the connection is faulty inside the molded end(s). 

If the solenoid was hot, my guess is the solenoid got stuck and stayed running. That would overheat the solenoid and melt the plug.

Incidentally, dielectric grease is good for preventing corrosion, but it does not improve a connection. It does the exact opposite, it actually hinders it. But I doubt the grease was the source of the issue.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Smoke comes out at the weakest point.
The relay was probably just overloaded from the xtra amperage draw.
They make grease just for electrical connections, surprised most do not use it on their trailer and other plug in receptacles.
The most common brand is---


*NO-OX-ID "A Special" Conductive Terminal Grease*


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Just don’t slather it on 

Op
Stuck solenoid, pump motor on its way out,
Cracked ,chafed cables .


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

MarshallTT said:


> Maybe moving the ground cable from the frame of truck, directly to the battery will help


Ya start there.
The cable probably melted due to it having the weakest connectivity.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Mountain Bob said:


> Smoke comes out at the weakest point.
> The relay was probably just overloaded from the xtra amperage draw.
> They make grease just for electrical connections, surprised most do not use it on their trailer and other plug in receptacles.


Interesting. Never heard of that. How would you use that on an application like a trailer plug or plow multi-pin connector where the pins are adjacent to each other? Wouldn't that grease short them all together? I do see that the mfg page lists the 7 way trailer plug as a recommended application but don't follow how that would work.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

cwren2472 said:


> Interesting. Never heard of that. How would you use that on an application like a trailer plug or plow multi-pin connector where the pins are adjacent to each other? Wouldn't that grease short them all together? I do see that the mfg page lists the 7 way trailer plug as a recommended application but don't follow how that would work.


It is conductive.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

NO-OX-ID electrical contact lubricant (electrical contact grease) is an electrically conductive grease that keeps metals free from rust and corrosion.

7, 7+pins

*TRUCK, AUTOMOTIVE, AND MARINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE*

Apply a thin coat of this electrically conductive grease to mini-lamp bases before inserting into sockets.
Apply to base of lamp socket and lens contact area.
Apply to all electrical conduit connections by packing the end of the tubing and nut before connecting to box connection.
Apply to all wire terminal connections and wire splice connections. Dip the spade or ring into the NO-OX-ID.
Apply to all electrical junction box connections or terminal posts in light system, starter cable connections, alternator terminal connections, battery posts connectors and ground connections.
*****Apply a thin coat of this electrically conductive lubricant to 7-way trailer plug connections and VW cable connector.******
Use NO-OX-ID A-Special as a battery terminal grease to prevent battery corrosion for your car battery maintenance and marine battery maintenance. For battery connections coat the post, screw, clamp, and terminal liberally with NO-OX-ID. A little NO-OX-ID goes a long way!

No-ox-I'd has been used in the power industry for over 65 years to prevent corrosion in electrical connectors from low micro-power electronics to high voltage switchgear.

https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Mountain Bob said:


> It is conductive.


I gathered that part. Wouldn't the conductive grease touching pins inside a multi pin socket be an issue?


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

cwren2472 said:


> I gathered that part. Wouldn't the conductive grease touching pins inside a multi pin socket be an issue?


No, because of the distance


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

The word dielectric is assumed to mean the connection will have future problems because "dielectrics" are insulators.

The primary difference between dielectric greases and "conductive" greases is that "conductive" greases and anti-seize greases include some amount of finely-powdered metal. The finely powdered metal is suspended by insulating grease, so it does not conduct. The suspended metal powder does lower the voltage breakdown of any arc paths through the grease.

Tests show anti-seize and other metal-loaded "conductive greases" reduce high voltage breakdown voltages of air paths or surface path resistances of insulators significantly. Fingerprints on, or worse yet slathering of "conductive grease" on insulators or insulation, seriously degrades high voltage hold off.

bottom line 
The working theory of "conductive" grease is when pressure is applied, the grease squeezes out of the way. This leaves a fine metal powder that theoretically pierces oxides or fills voids.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Mountain Bob said:


> No, because of the distance


ok....


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Hydromaster said:


> *****Apply a thin coat of this electrically conductive lubricant to 7-way trailer plug connections and VW cable connector.******


I notice the many asterisks in that sentence.

Does that mean that the average consumer (who thinks a little dielectric grease will make his connection good and a lot will make it _great_) are expected to know that they need to apply it with a Q-tip to the plug connection? 'Cuz I totally see that as happening.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

cwren2472 said:


> I notice the many asterisks in that sentence.
> 
> Does that mean that the average consumer (who thinks a little dielectric grease will make his connection good and a lot will make it _great_) are expected to know that they need to apply it with a Q-tip to the plug connection? 'Cuz I totally see that as happening.


It is not that critical. Probably stated that way for industries, because it is expensive. Usualy applied with those disposable acid brushes. You can even gob it around your battery connections, to stop corrosion.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

cwren2472 said:


> If the bad ground was at the mounting point, it would be hot and burnt there, not at the plug. If there was a bad connection at the plug itself it would cause it to melt there. Either because the pin(s), either side, were corroded or the connection is faulty inside the molded end(s).
> 
> If the solenoid was hot, my guess is the solenoid got stuck and stayed running. That would overheat the solenoid and melt the plug.
> 
> Incidentally, dielectric grease is good for preventing corrosion, but it does not improve a connection. It does the exact opposite, it actually hinders it. But I doubt the grease was the source of the issue.


So probably I over greased the plug and it wasn't making a good connection so it heated up and melted the ruber. And then me pushing the plow up and down made the solenoid overheat and quit.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

So probably I over greased the plug and it wasn't making a good connection so it heated up and melted the ruber. And then me pushing the plow up and down made the solenoid overheat and quit.

No,
A Open circuit would not have caused anything to heat up,

a load, yes


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

Does this grease go "whooooooosh"?

Rumour on the playground is that kind is the bestest!


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

Hydromaster said:


> So probably I over greased the plug and it wasn't making a good connection so it heated up and melted the ruber. And then me pushing the plow up and down made the solenoid overheat and quit.
> 
> No,
> A Open circuit would not have caused anything to heat up,
> ...


If it cant handle a load does that mean my pump motor is going out? I have a parts plow in the yard so maybe swapping the pumps out.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Most common causes of bad connections in "plug in's"
Wire to terminal corrosion,or partially broken
Corrosion on the terminals. Just because you do not see it does not mean it is not there
The terminals were "spread" and loose, therefore not making good connection,or only connected part time


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

You need to repair/replace the plug, then test.
Don't put the cart before the horse.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

cwren2472 said:


> I notice the many asterisks in that sentence.
> 
> Does that mean that the average consumer (who thinks a little dielectric grease will make his connection good and a lot will make it _great_) are expected to know that they need to apply it with a Q-tip to the plug connection? 'Cuz I totally see that as happening.


I embellished with the Asterix for your enjoyment.

maybe the average consumer should read the label first?

Idk 
Stupid is stupid does


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

MarshallTT said:


> If it cant handle a load does that mean my pump motor is going out? I have a parts plow in the yard so maybe swapping the pumps out.


Whoa, slow down there. No one suggested yanking your pump off yet. You could have had something as simple as a plug not fully pushed in and arcing (I am not saying that was the actual cause here)

Replace the melted cable (and I'd replace the solenoid too for safety sake.)
Clean the other plug.
Try it. See if the plug end gets warm. If it doesn't, great. If it starts heating up, come back here and we'll talk about next steps.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

MarshallTT said:


> If it cant handle a load does that mean my pump motor is going out? I have a parts plow in the yard so maybe swapping the pumps out.


I'd start at the solenoid.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Hydromaster said:


> I embellished with the Asterix for your enjoyment.


Thank you. I did enjoy it more that way.



Hydromaster said:


> maybe the average consumer should read the label first?


Wuss.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

I agree,replace the main solenoid just for good measure.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

And spend a few extra $$and get a good one.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

I will order up new cables and solenoid. I started cleaning the grown on the truck so check that off the list.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Hydromaster said:


> And spend a few extra $$and get a good one.


I've heard he can just replace the solenoid with a qt of atf+4. The plastic bottle is dielectric which helps shield it.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

I’d prefer grounding to the engine block
and closer to the alternator the better
Or
( part of the “big3”)
(And not that this has anything to do with your melted cables )
but while we’re there why don’t we put a larger cable from the alternator(ground) to the battery. 
then you could move your plow ground to your battery .


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

cwren2472 said:


> I've heard he can just replace the solenoid with a qt of atf+4. The plastic bottle is dielectric which helps shield it.


R U Sniffing the markers again?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

Hydromaster said:


> R U Sniffing the markers again?


He can't get any parts, has to look busy somehow. 
OP, clean all of the connections, even if they look good, remove and clean them.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Randall Ave said:


> He can't get any parts, has to look busy somehow.
> OP, clean all of the connections, even if they look good, remove and clean them.


So, he should check his grounds...?


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

cwren2472 said:


> So, he should check his grounds...?


Sooo, your start with that one allready?


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Randall Ave said:


> Sooo, your start with that one allready?


Sorry, it's the marker fumes.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

I remember hearing that you can use WD-40 as a corrosion preventer.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

MarshallTT said:


> I remember hearing that you can use WD-40 as a corrosion preventer.


No and yes.

WD-40 is a company
Their most common product is a penetrate,cleaner. It can actually promote corrosion
They do make a special corrosion inhibitor.


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## Randall Ave (Oct 29, 2014)

cwren2472 said:


> Sorry, it's the marker fumes.


Since the OP is probably going to be purchasing some parts. Has Western sent out any price increase yet? Just speaking in general.


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## cwren2472 (Aug 15, 2014)

Randall Ave said:


> Since the OP is probably going to be purchasing some parts. Has Western sent out any price increase yet? Just speaking in general.


Last one announced was in August.

Next one is scheduled for:










The good news is that both that power cable and the solenoid are relatively cheap (in the grand scheme of things)


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## Mark Oomkes (Dec 10, 2000)

MarshallTT said:


> I remember hearing that you can use WD-40 as a corrosion preventer.


WD is garbage compared to so many other products.


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

I just sprayed FluidFilm everywhere! Battery Terminals for sure. Did Dielectric on plugs.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

Well I replaced the power cables and solenoid today and retested. wires off the solenoid get hot but I can still safely touch them without getting burnt. same goes for the connection to the truck where they melted before witch is back to normal when I load test them at the shop. 

But of course more repairs are needed now since yesterday. The plow controller in the cab started to flicker on and off. I found the male connector on the truck side is not making good contact. I'm going to see if I can splice a new plug in instead of replacing the whole harness. Also I found some cracks in the moldboard, so i get to farm weld and hope it holds.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Did you move the ground cable yet?


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

I don't have enough length to retch the neg on the battery so I cleaned the spot on the frame where it was before.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

MarshallTT said:


> I don't have enough length to retch the neg on the battery so I cleaned the spot on the frame where it was before.


Make a new cable going from neg batt to frame where plow neg is.
Auto part stores carry pre-made batt cable btw...

Have you preformed a volt drop test at all the pos and neg connections?


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

will a 2ga wire work? I have junk bin of wires and have a jumper cable I could cut up. 

I have never done a volt drop test before. All I've done is check for power at the solenoid. How is that done?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

2g is more then enough. 

Volt meter. Neg at batt neg.
Take your pos, and go directly at alt and operate plow(use the same functionevery time..I'd say up)....what's the reading
Then go to battery, and repeat.
Then In put at solenoid, then output solenoid. Then plow motor.
Do this at as many connections as you can. Them do it for negative. 
Give your truck about a 2 minute recovery time in between tests.
I believe the spec is no more then a 1 volt drop across the system..
Maybe someone else might have a different number, I just thought it was 1 volt.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

2ga? Maybe,I would go bigger.Bigger is always better with power cables. Plow cables should never get hot. Warm,perhaps, under heavy use.Power cables should be as short as possible,and directly to the battery,optimally. When your wires get "hot", are they both? and are they hot the whole length? Localized heat is sign of a problem. Trucks have a ground wire from engine to the frame, and is always a possible problem. When your wires get hot, is the pump motor getting hot? It also never hurts to upgrade the battery and charging wiring when adding power using accessories to a vehicle. Search The Big Three on the net, many sites list the instructions. IF your wires are hot along the whole length, and the motor gets hot, might be a failing motor. Sometimes you can find the problem by getting them hot, and feeling for the hottest point,usually a connection. Might also help to know what plow and what truck you have.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

Mountain Bob said:


> 2ga? Maybe,I would go bigger.Bigger is always better with power cables. Plow cables should never get hot. Warm,perhaps, under heavy use.Power cables should be as short as possible,and directly to the battery,optimally. When your wires get "hot", are they both? and are they hot the whole length? Localized heat is sign of a problem. Trucks have a ground wire from engine to the frame, and is always a possible problem. When your wires get hot, is the pump motor getting hot? It also never hurts to upgrade the battery and charging wiring when adding power using accessories to a vehicle. Search The Big Three on the net, many sites list the instructions. IF your wires are hot along the whole length, and the motor gets hot, might be a failing motor. Sometimes you can find the problem by getting them hot, and feeling for the hottest point,usually a connection. Might also help to know what plow and what truck you have.


Im having the problem with a 2012 f250 v8 and a western wideout. we have 2 250s that run same plows and 2 550s that use the same plows so truck to plow changes often.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

dieselss said:


> 2g is more then enough.
> 
> Volt meter. Neg at batt neg.
> Take your pos, and go directly at alt and operate plow(use the same functionevery time..I'd say up)....what's the reading
> ...


Should the truck be running? I know I have drained the battery testing in the past.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Mountain Bob said:


> 2ga? Maybe,I would go bigger.Bigger is always better with power cables


Agreed....plow cables are only 4. Can't push more amps through a wire then what it can handle. So why go bigger when there's no need.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

MarshallTT said:


> Should the truck be running? I know I have drained the battery testing in the past.


Yes


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

dieselss said:


> Agreed....plow cables are only 4. Can't push more amps through a wire then what it can handle. So why go bigger when there's no need.


Length increases resistance,which increases the amperage. You/he are speaking of adding a cable from battery over to where the plow is grounded somewhere on the frame, which has already increased the resistance. Basic wiring. The wiring on the plow is sized for it to be wired per the instructions, which is neg. to the battery. The truck is not powering the plow,the battery is.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

TO do a proper voltage drop test, you have to energize/power up the device.The truck would not have to be running, but the plow would. You can find simple directions on the net.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Mountain Bob said:


> TO do a proper voltage drop test, you have to energize/power up the device.The truck would not have to be running, but the plow would. You can find simple directions on the net.


So, your going to be operating the plow multiple times for the volt drop test...now you are using up battery volts with nothing replenishing the voltage. So how is this an accurate test?


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

Mountain Bob said:


> The truck is not powering the plow,the battery is.


So your plowing without an alternator?


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Mountain Bob said:


> Length increases resistance,which increases the amperage. You/he are speaking of adding a cable from battery over to where the plow is grounded somewhere on the frame, which has already increased the resistance. Basic wiring. The wiring on the plow is sized for it to be wired per the instructions, which is neg. to the battery. The truck is not powering the plow,the battery is.


Doesn't larher gauge also add resistance?


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Yes the engine should be running when performing your tests
now as far as grounding, if you take a larger than the stock engine to frame grounding cable from where your alternator is grounding (that bracket/ bolt that goes into the back of the alternator ) & run a ground cable from there to your battery that’s if you’re going to ground your plow to the battery.

if you’re set on using this frame ground location, I would still run larger cable from the battery and the engine block.
A lot of newer trucks are known for poor grounding and bad ground loops

If there’s a lot of resistance in the ground circuit, there will be issues.

I like grounding my plow to the same place my battery is grounded to and usually I pick on top of the alternator.
This alone can solve a lot of issues.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Hydromaster said:


> A lot of newer trucks are known for poor grounding and bad ground loops


@Philbilly2 probably could chime in here on the great braided Dirtymax ground straps...


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Ajlawn1 said:


> Doesn't larher gauge also add resistance?


Now. Think of it as a pipe or water hose. Length increases resistance, larger diameter reduces. Perhaps this would help--
The second thing to consider when selecting the correct size battery cable is the length of cable you need. The length is important because as electricity flows through a battery cable, there is an resistance to the flow of that electricity which will generate heat in your battery cable and manifest itself in the form of what is called a voltage drop at the end of the cable. Voltage drop is simply the voltage seen at one end of the cable minus the voltage seen at the other end of the cable. This voltage drop is influenced by the diameter of the copper conductors inside the cable, or the gauge size, and the total length of the cable - The longer the battery cable is, the higher the voltage drop will be, and the larger the diameter, or gauge (AWG) of the battery cable, the less the voltage drop will be.


dieselss said:


> So, your going to be operating the plow multiple times for the volt drop test...now you are using up battery volts with nothing replenishing the voltage. So how is this an accurate test?


I think you do not understand voltage drop testing of an ancillary device. Will post a link in a bit.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Hydromaster said:


> Yes the engine should be running when performing your tests
> now as far as grounding, if you take a larger than the stock engine to frame grounding cable from where your alternator is grounding (that bracket/ bolt that goes into the back of the alternator ) & run a ground cable from there to your battery that's if you're going to ground your plow to the battery.
> 
> if you're set on using this frame ground location, I would still run larger cable from the battery and the engine block.
> ...


No,not running. He is not trying to test the voltage drop of the charging system,but the plow,and each time he tests it, should only be for a second or 2.


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Voltage drop testing of an ancillary devise, in this case a starter motor, so similar to a plow pump.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Every time the electric motor pump motor draws 50A + or - the battery’s voltage will drop he needs to have the same supply voltage all the time so he can test the drop in voltage. He’s not testing the condition of his battery.

He’s not testing just the motor for the plow pump.

I don’t necessarily think this test is even necessary find the root of the problem,
Necessarily.

is the op deadheading ,, holding on to a function after it’s completed ,
Running on bypass. This will heat things up too. ( just a example)

what if this was a 110v system or a 12volt system without a battery ?


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## Mountain Bob (Nov 12, 2017)

Hydromaster said:


> Every time the electric motor pump motor draws 50A + or - the battery's voltage will drop he needs to have the same supply voltage all the time so he can test the drop in voltage. He's not testing the condition of his battery.
> 
> He's not testing just the motor for the plow pump.
> 
> ...


I explained the proper "voltage drop" test, which is the industry standard for locating a problem in a conductor or connection.
Measuring a "drop in voltage" is pretty useless in DC, especially with high draw devices, of course there will be a drop, which makes it mostly useless. Although a huge drop may indicate a big problem, like a conductor too small.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

If you make multiple tests with a fixed amount.
Like a bucket full of electricity, every time
You use some there is less in the bucket.

first test 12v
Now because there is less in the bucket a second test can’t have 12 as we used it ,
Now it will have 11.9 A voltage drop not related to the circuit.

When you place your meter "across", or in parallel with the circuit you are testing, you are providing another path for the voltage to travel. If there is excessive resistance then your meter becomes "the path of least resistance" and you will register a voltage reading. If the circuit is functioning properly all voltage will pass directly to the load and your meter will register an acceptable reading. "Acceptable" for most circuits is less than .4 volts, although .1 volts or less is preferred.
Seeing as we have a motor that is like a starter , seeing .6 volts during a voltage drop is expected

also while we’re at it 
First check the entire positive side of the charging circuit for excessive voltage drop. Hook your meter's positive lead to the alternator output stud and your negative lead to battery positive post. Run engine at 2,000 RPM with all lights, blower motor, radio etc. on and check voltage reading on meter. Leave the rear defroster off during this check as it may create a unusually high read. An acceptable reading is .5 volts or less. If you have an out of spec. voltage drop, check connections at alternator and battery as well as for an use of undersized cable. Check the negative side for the charging circuit the same as the positive with your meter's negative lead on the alternator case, or ground strap if equipped, and the positive lead on the batttery negative post. Voltage drop on this side of the circuit should be .2 volts or less. If it's not you know what to check and how to check it!

ps Bob, I agree it’s hard to test a starter with the engine running. For that test you will need to start with the engine off.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

Because ground circuit voltage drop can cause most of the symptoms listed earlier, consider adopting this new work habit: test grounds first. Before you do a tune-up, check out electrical problems, or test a starting, charging, ABS, or air conditioning system, routinely test the engine and body grounds. Connect your digital multimeter between the engine and negative battery terminal. Safely disarm the ignition and crank the engine for a few seconds, or if your multimeter has a data recording function it will capture the reading in as little as 100 milliseconds.

If the voltage drop is excessive, repair the engine ground circuit and retest. Note that on some ignition systems without a distributor, the simplest way to prevent the engine from starting during the ground test is to pull the fuel pump fuse. Next, connect the digital multimeter between the negative battery terminal and the vehicle’s firewall. Then start the engine and switch on the major electrical accessories. If there is too much voltage drop, then fix the body ground and retest.

Once the engine and body grounds are within limits, proceed with your diagnosis. Do not be surprised if fixing these grounds solves the car’s problems. The fact that a vehicle passes the body ground test does not mean you can safely ground your digital multimeter wherever you want to. Some technicians have run in circles for hours because their digital multimeters were not well grounded. For safe electrical service, make yourself a 20- or 30-foot jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end, allowing you to test an electrical fuel pump, lighting system or ABS computer in the rear of the vehicle by grounding your digital multimeter to the battery with the jumper wire.


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting


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## WIPensFan (Jan 31, 2009)

I would chime in here, electric vehicle and all, but I think you guys have touched on all the points I would have made…


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## Hydromaster (Jun 11, 2018)

WIPensFan said:


> I would chime in here, electric vehicle and all, but I think you guys have touched on all the points I would have made…


It should be plugged in and fully changed…

idk 
aha


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Ajlawn1 said:


> @Philbilly2 probably could chime in here on the great braided Dirtymax ground straps...


Hey... take it to one of the 1000's of "check your grounds" threads


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

A lot of info but I think I got a place to start now. I did before I went home for the weekend run another plow on the same truck and I ran my same load test on it and it never got hot just warm. So I'm thinking it is the ground on the plow.


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## Ajlawn1 (Aug 20, 2009)

Philbilly2 said:


> Hey... take it to one of the 1000's of "check your grounds" threads


Oh the Western plow ones...


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## Philbilly2 (Aug 25, 2007)

Ajlawn1 said:


> Oh the Western plow ones...


Since he is talking about a Wideout... Western ones would be a good start


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

MarshallTT said:


> A lot of info but I think I got a place to start now. I did before I went home for the weekend run another plow on the same truck and I ran my same load test on it and it never got hot just warm. So I'm thinking it is the ground on the plow.


Oh and i should mentchen that i noticed a difference in speed the plow moved when testing the other.


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

So same truck different plow....

New plow was better then plow in question? 

Can you do the same with different truck ?


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

dieselss said:


> So same truck different plow....
> 
> New plow was better then plow in question?
> 
> Can you do the same with different truck ?


Yes. same truck different plow worked good. If the crew leaves me a another truck then I will test the plow with the problems to better rule out the truck as a cause.


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## MarshallTT (Sep 27, 2021)

I tested plow with one of our 550s instead of the 250 I was using and plow works great, its full speed is back and after about a minute of load testing up L R down etc cables are cold. So I think the lazy option is too assign the plow to the truck it works with. But that might bite me in the ass if it breaks down and the driver drops of the broken one in my shop and picks up the next plow in line to finish his route and that one doesn't work also. So i will see if I can do a voltage drop test on the 250 and upgrade the ground wire.


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