# Need help setting up plow...MM1 vs MM2



## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

OK, here is the deal...I mostly just plow my own driveway...and have been using my old dodge 2500 w/a fisher 7'6" plow with (I think) a MM1 mounting system.

Years ago I bought the plow & push plates used and put them on the dodge. well the dodge finally died and I just bought a '14 chevy 2500hd. I want to now move the old plow to the new truck. but I am having trouble finding out what push plates I need? It seems like all the push plates are now MM2?

Here are my questions:
1. I am 99% sure my old plow is a MM1 mount, but how can I be 100% certain (I KNOW it is not MM2)
2. Are MM2 push plates compatible with MM1 plows?
3. If I need MM1 push plates for a MM1 plow, do they still make them? For a 2014 vehicle?

Because I only plow my own driveway I really really do not want to buy a new plow if I don't have to, even if the old plow is showing its age...

Thanks in advance.


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## gtmustang00 (Feb 23, 2010)

You can put a mm1 or mm2 plow on the same push plates. When they say mm1 vs mm2 they are talking about the headgear on the plow. mm2 has a rounder headgear with 1 lever to release both pins. mm1 you have to go to each side to release the pins.


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

ok, thanks. that is what I suspected but could not find that info anywhere.

now, as for the electrical, the plow has a 2 plug setup...it seems like all the new ones are 3 (or 4?)?

I will pull all the old wiring out of the dodge to re-use but would rather not make a mess of the new truck's wiring by splicing into the harnesses. seems like I could buy a new harness for the chevy and then splice my old dodge truck side harness into the new chevy truck side harness and not have to cut any of the chevy wiring...does this make sense or is there an easier way to go about this?

thanks again.


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## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

If The headgear and lights comes off the truck with the plow its a mm1 . If just the plow comes off itsa speadcast.

If its a mm1 the plow will mount on mm2 push plates. The wiring will be different.

Is it an electric pump or does it run off the motor?


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## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

Matt_2500;1906415 said:


> ok, thanks. that is what I suspected but could not find that info anywhere.
> 
> now, as for the electrical, the plow has a 2 plug setup...it seems like all the new ones are 3 (or 4?)?
> 
> ...


I would buy new wiring for the truck and switch the plow to match it


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

quigleysiding;1906416 said:


> If The headgear and lights comes off the truck with the plow its a mm1 . If just the plow comes off itsa speadcast.
> 
> If its a mm1 the plow will mount on mm2 push plates. The wiring will be different.
> 
> Is it an electric pump or does it run off the motor?


thanks...this confirms it is a MM1 which is what I thought. headgear comes off, push plates look like the MM2 plates I see...hydraulics are electric.

so the push plate questions are answered...in no time...thanks!

what about the electrical? do they make MM1 2 plug harnesses for new trucks? I am well versed enough with electrical stuff where I could easily make the old dodge harness work with the new chevy but I'd have to splice into the new truck which I really do not want to do. willing to spend some $$ on a new harness if it can prevent that (don't mind hacking into the new harness I buy though).

thanks this forum is exactly what I was looking for. Thumbs Up


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

quigleysiding;1906419 said:


> I would buy new wiring for the truck and switch the plow to match it


didn't see this before I replied.

is that a standard kit to change the plow to 3 plug?

approx. how much $$ is the full truck side wiring?

approx. how much to switch the plow over?

the reason I ask is that the plow is not in superb shape and I do not want to throw too much money at it...

thanks


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## dieselss (Jan 3, 2008)

They don't make a harness. If it's just your drive, you can run a switch to the plow lights. And use the test of the old plow harness


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Matt_2500;1906423 said:


> thanks...this confirms it is a MM1 which is what I thought. headgear comes off, push plates look like the MM2 plates I see...hydraulics are electric.
> 
> so the push plate questions are answered...in no time...thanks!
> 
> ...


Cutting wires on newer trucks is a no no. Most newer vehicle headlights are computer controlled, cutting wires can have a bad effect on the computer. I suggest new 3 plug harness and convert plow to 3 plug set up. New 2 plug setups are fleet flex and would be very expensive to convert the plow to a fleet flex.


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## quigleysiding (Oct 3, 2009)

Not really sure on cost .You can go to the fisher web site and look up your truck and see what wiring you need . Then start pricing it out. Best bet is to order it online as all the local dealers seem pricy. But if you want it fast then you have to bite the bullet .Theres a lot of install guys on here who will pipe in and help also


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

kimber750;1906435 said:


> Cutting wires on newer trucks is a no no. Most newer vehicle headlights are computer controlled, cutting wires can have a bad effect on the computer. .


I would tap into the wiring for the trailer tow socket and use relays. just need something to tell the relays that the headlights are on (the RL circuit in the trailer wiring) and the that the turn signals are on (the turn signal circuits in the trailer wiring). wouldn't mess with the computer at all. good warning though

Thumbs Up

I will probably price out new truck side wiring and let the cost determine if it's worth my trouble to wire it myself...

this forum is great. can't believe how fast I got all these knowledgeable responses


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## Nascar24 (Feb 11, 2006)

I would look for a used truck side wiring iso module and harnesses, typically three plug set up are around for GM trucks, Fishers site should tell you what iso module and headlamp harnesses that will be needed, the control harness and power harnesses generally all the same


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Matt_2500;1906452 said:


> I would tap into the wiring for the trailer tow socket and use relays. just need something to tell the relays that the headlights are on (the RL circuit in the trailer wiring) and the that the turn signals are on (the turn signal circuits in the trailer wiring). wouldn't mess with the computer at all. good warning though
> 
> Thumbs Up
> 
> ...


How are you gonna get high and low signal from trailer wiring? Gonna run plow and truck lights at same time? Even on new plow systems the park/turn are spliced into, these are not the issue. It is the headlight signal that the ecu controls. So cutting into the trailer harness is pointless.


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

I actually went the easy (expensive) route and bought all new wiring and switched the plow to 3 plug as suggested by the guys here (was simple, just took an extra plow side cable). The plow is old and I'll probably replace it at some point so I figured I may as well do it this way to be plug & play w/a new plow.

All-in the wiring was about $650, push plates $470 delivered. Way more than I was expecting for the wiring but oh well.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Matt_2500;1944733 said:


> I actually went the easy (expensive) route and bought all new wiring and switched the plow to 3 plug as suggested by the guys here (was simple, just took an extra plow side cable). The plow is old and I'll probably replace it at some point so I figured I may as well do it this way to be plug & play w/a new plow.
> 
> All-in the wiring was about $650, push plates $470 delivered. Way more than I was expecting for the wiring but oh well.


Good to hear, I am sure it will give much fewer headaches down the road. Thumbs Up


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

kimber750;1944728 said:


> How are you gonna get high and low signal from trailer wiring? Gonna run plow and truck lights at same time? Even on new plow systems the park/turn are spliced into, these are not the issue. It is the headlight signal that the ecu controls. So cutting into the trailer harness is pointless.


this is an old post but it is as simple as running the truck with the headlight switch in the p/l setting...r/l come on, truck headlights stay off, plow h/l and r/l come on through relay spliced into r/l wiring...certainly not pointless and pretty simple actually.


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## kimber750 (Sep 19, 2011)

Matt_2500;1944740 said:


> this is an old post but it is as simple as running the truck with the headlight switch in the p/l setting...r/l come on, truck headlights stay off, plow h/l and r/l come on through relay spliced into r/l wiring...certainly not pointless and pretty simple actually.


My point was that the truck park/turn light don't go through the computer. Also these are spliced into with almost all current plow setups. So might as well use them instead of cutting open trailer harness or running wires to the back of truck to get to the plug. Also you didn't say how you would switch from high to low head lights. This signal is not in the trailer harness. Yes I know it can be done with relays but then you are adding another switch in the cab, even more wiring that can possibly go bad. Like I said, you took the smarter route by buying the proper wiring.


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## Matt_2500 (Dec 21, 2014)

kimber750;1944746 said:


> My point was that the truck park/turn light don't go through the computer. Also these are spliced into with almost all current plow setups. So might as well use them instead of cutting open trailer harness or running wires to the back of truck to get to the plug. Also you didn't say how you would switch from high to low head lights. This signal is not in the trailer harness. Yes I know it can be done with relays but then you are adding another switch in the cab, even more wiring that can possibly go bad. Like I said, you took the smarter route by buying the proper wiring.


as I said in my first post, just plowing my own driveway, meaning high beams are not necessary, no new switches needed in the cab. solution would have worked perfectly but I decided to spend the $$ rather than the time to put together the custom solution. whether or not it's smarter would only depend on whether or not you have more time or $$, at least assuming you have the knowledge/skill set to properly engineer a custom electrical setup which I do. in the end, as I said, I decided to save the time and spend the $$.


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