# Towing and Transmisson Maintenance



## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

My truck has about 180,000 miles on it and I have driven it for about the last 40,000. I have a few questions about the maintenance of my transmission because I am going to be towing a heavy 35' camper trailer about 1500 miles. 

First off, I have been told not to have my transmission flushed because I don't know if it has been done regularly in the past and could stir up debris and cause problems. Is this true or should I not worry about having it flushed?

Second, Should I install a transmission cooler? They're not very expensive so I wouldn't mid doing it. Is it worth it?

Third, What kind of brake controller should I be looking for?

Thanks for any help guys


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## plowinginma (Oct 22, 2005)

JMO but it is a cardnal sin to flush a transmission with many miles on it.. I personally did it years ago.. Thought I was going to be nice nice to my truck.. give it some love.. flush the tranny fill her up with nice new fluid.. she went nowhere.. tranny job.. oh and yes it was right before a snow storm..


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Check out this thread for a effective and safe exchange procedure you can do yourself. Post #2.
http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=92981&highlight=fluid+exchange

Synthetic Fluid will give you the best protection, and run cooler.

Your truck probably has an auxilary cooler. If not, add one.

For a brake controller, the Tekonsha P3 is very highly regarded.


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## JohnDeere2320 (Dec 12, 2009)

Do you know if it has the original tranny or if the guy before you had it rebuilt? If he had it rebuilt, say, around 120,000 miles or more, then I wouldnt be concerned with changing/flushing the fluid, as this is about the time when a new tranny would be flushed. If it is still on the original tranny....DONT TOUCH IT. 180,000 miles on a tranny that spent its life doing towing and plowing duty is excellent, and flushing it can only hurt it as you may be on borrowed time anyway.


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## ajslands (Sep 3, 2009)

i hope you have towed before, because thats a big trailer and if you dont have trailer breaks then you obvisoly havent pulled a double axle yet. becareful bout sway too


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

ajslands;959207 said:


> i hope you have towed before, because thats a big trailer and if you dont have trailer breaks then you obvisoly havent pulled a double axle yet. becareful bout sway too


just a once. it was and 18' dual axle flat bed with a tractor on it. its gonna be interesting.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

"Letting a sleeping dog lie" when it comes to transmission service is one of the biggest wives' tales ever. People run into trouble when they go to quickie lube shops, or any other garage - including dealers - that are doing trans *flushes* rather than a proper filter change and service. It is much faster, and therefore profitable, for a tech to pull a cooler line, connect a couple of hoses, and pump out a few quarts of fluid. Also, by not dropping the pan, they reduce the likelihood of a call back due to a leaky pan gasket. The procedure I outlined in the linked thread is perfectly safe. I have done it several times, and it is endorsed by the best mechanics on this site and others.

What kind of trailer will you be pulling? Fifth wheel or "bumper pull"


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## JohnDeere2320 (Dec 12, 2009)

Hey chcav1218, does your truck have a trans temp guage?


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

thnx 2cor. unfortunately its a bumper pull. im kinda nervous about it. any pointers?


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

and JD, no it doesnt have a trans temp gauge.


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## ontario026 (Dec 22, 2008)

B&B where are you??? LOL What's your input on this? I have heard exactly what 2Cor said, "that not touching a 'neglected' higher mileage tranny is the best bet" is a wives tale and may stand true for some old school transmissions, but is not detrimental on modern trannies when done correctly...

Matthew


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## ajslands (Sep 3, 2009)

chcav1218;959294 said:


> and JD, no it doesnt have a trans temp gauge.


put one in it, you''ll be glad you did, and before you get on the high way with this thing, make sure you can drive with it regulary and figure out how high youll need to set your breaks to.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

Believe me it is a bunch of horseshyt!!! My truck has 156k on it, flushed the trans as outlined in that thread around 154k, do plenty of towing in the landscaping season and plowing all winter. Trans shifts smoother and runs cooler than it did when I got the truck with 85k on it. Do it yourself, very simple job and you dont have a clown trying to get off easy and make a few bucks without doing the job properly!! Alot of the new fluids have good additive packages in them to help recondition old seals with a bunch of miles on them. Stick with a good mobil one synthetic or amsoil, you will need the long filter for the 4L80E, flush that torque converter out and you will be happy. Your truck is the same as mine (unless it is the obs with the 5.7) so dont let people scare you or fool you. The truck does have an aux trans cooler providing it has the tow package/plow prep which it more than likely does. That is more than fine for a stock truck pulling a heavy camper. Pulled my car from Cleveland Ohio to Kansas City, Missouri this July while the temps out there were in the 90's without the trans temp going near the 200 mark. As for the controller, I personally run the tekonsha prodigy and love it!!! Very easy to adjust for a heavier load and much nicer to stop with the brakes being applied more or less pending pedal pressure. Worth every penny for me


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

ajslands;959305 said:


> put one in it, you''ll be glad you did, and before you get on the high way with this thing, make sure you can drive with it regulary and figure out how high youll need to set your breaks to.


Is it a simple install or will I need to get it done by a shop? I plan on going on a few short test drives to see how everything handles.


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## JohnDeere2320 (Dec 12, 2009)

Before I was concerned with another cooler (im sure your truck has a stock cooler) I would install a trans temp guage so you're not running blind. Are you going to be going through any mountains? Do you know the the LOADED weight of the trailer is? What is the rear end ratio of your truck? Sorry for all the questions but I would hate to see you ruin your truck.

2COR517, I did the same sort of bucket flush on my 4l80e, except I cut the square part off of the filter and connected a hose to the neck of the old filter and pulled the oil in that way out of a bucket. I put a utility sled under the tranny to catch the old fluid because the fluid literally came out of the entire bottom of the tranny, not just in 1 location. I then had to add the capacity of the pan back into the tranny via the dipstick hole. I understand that many problems related to transmission flush failures are due to the high pressure flush, but is it possible that the detergents in the new tranny fluid could could cause crud to break loose inside of the "dirty" tranny and still cause a failure?


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

chcav1218;959291 said:


> thnx 2cor. unfortunately its a bumper pull. im kinda nervous about it. any pointers?


Two words for you. Hensley Arrow. Google it. Go to RV.net and do some reading there too. Those guys are the experts on towing.



chcav1218;959294 said:


> and JD, no it doesnt have a trans temp gauge.


Put one in soon. That way you will have an idea what is normal.



ontario026;959301 said:


> B&B where are you??? LOL What's your input on this? I have heard exactly what 2Cor said, "that not touching a 'neglected' higher mileage tranny is the best bet" is a wives tale and may stand true for some old school transmissions, but is not detrimental on modern trannies when done correctly...
> 
> Matthew


B&B "endorses" the procedure in post #10 of the thread I linked.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Sydenstricker Landscaping;959319 said:


> Believe me it is a bunch of horseshyt!!! My truck has 156k on it, flushed the trans as outlined in that thread around 154k, do plenty of towing in the landscaping season and plowing all winter. Trans shifts smoother and runs cooler than it did when I got the truck with 85k on it. Do it yourself, very simple job and you dont have a clown trying to get off easy and make a few bucks without doing the job properly!! Alot of the new fluids have good additive packages in them to help recondition old seals with a bunch of miles on them. Stick with a good mobil one synthetic or amsoil, you will need the long filter for the 4L80E, flush that torque converter out and you will be happy. Your truck is the same as mine (unless it is the obs with the 5.7) so dont let people scare you or fool you. The truck does have an aux trans cooler providing it has the tow package/plow prep which it more than likely does. That is more than fine for a stock truck pulling a heavy camper. Pulled my car from Cleveland Ohio to Kansas City, Missouri this July while the temps out there were in the 90's without the trans temp going near the 200 mark. As for the controller, I personally run the tekonsha prodigy and love it!!! Very easy to adjust for a heavier load and much nicer to stop with the brakes being applied more or less pending pedal pressure. Worth every penny for me


My truck is the same as yours. I'd love to see some pics of it sometime. I think im going to do a fluid change like that thread says. I'm hoping to have it rebuilt this summer.


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

chcav1218;959339 said:


> My truck is the same as yours. I'd love to see some pics of it sometime. I think im going to do a fluid change like that thread says. I'm hoping to have it rebuilt this summer.


Well if you have the Silverado 2500 4x4 with the 6.0, then you will already have a trans temp gauge in it. It is on the lower left side of the dash cluster below the driver info center.

I will have to get some new pics of the truck soon. Havent done much on the exterior as of yet, all my money is under the hood, lol


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

JohnDeere2320;959334 said:


> Before I was concerned with another cooler (im sure your truck has a stock cooler) I would install a trans temp guage so you're not running blind. Are you going to be going through any mountains? Do you know the the LOADED weight of the trailer is? What is the rear end ratio of your truck? Sorry for all the questions but I would hate to see you ruin your truck.
> 
> 2COR517, I did the same sort of bucket flush on my 4l80e, except I cut the square part off of the filter and connected a hose to the neck of the old filter and pulled the oil in that way out of a bucket. I put a utility sled under the tranny to catch the old fluid because the fluid literally came out of the entire bottom of the tranny, not just in 1 location. I then had to add the capacity of the pan back into the tranny via the dipstick hole. I understand that many problems related to transmission flush failures are due to the high pressure flush, but is it possible that the detergents in the new tranny fluid could could cause crud to break loose inside of the "dirty" tranny and still cause a failure?


I've never heard of anyone doing it that way. Sounds messy, and very risky to me. Risky because if the hose came out of the filter inlet, you would pump the trans dry. Plus, you are pulling unfiltered fluid into your trans. With "my" procedure you just need a piece of 3/8 fuel line into a bucket. I actually use washer fluid jugs. You can see the color change easily, and you don't have to handle the old ATF again.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

That anti sway hitch looks pretty sweet but its $$$$$$


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

JohnDeere2320;959334 said:


> Before I was concerned with another cooler (im sure your truck has a stock cooler) I would install a trans temp guage so you're not running blind. Are you going to be going through any mountains? Do you know the the LOADED weight of the trailer is? What is the rear end ratio of your truck? Sorry for all the questions but I would hate to see you ruin your truck.QUOTE]
> 
> I can get all this info for you in the AM


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## Sydenstricker Landscaping (Dec 17, 2006)

I can already tell you the rear end ratio is 4.10. The 2000 2500 4x4's only had a 6.0, 4L80E, and a 14 bolt semi floating 4.10 out back.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Sydenstricker Landscaping;959375 said:


> I can already tell you the rear end ratio is 4.10. The 2000 2500 4x4's only had a 6.0, 4L80E, and a 14 bolt semi floating 4.10 out back.


thanks for the info. I dont have any exact info on the camper but its a 34'8" 1987 suncoast travel trailer. Dual axle. Any ideas on how much this babe weighs?


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## ontario026 (Dec 22, 2008)

actually I am pretty sure mine has 3.73's in it.... and it is a 2000 NBS 2500 ECSB 4x4 6.0 4L80E....


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

chcav1218;959353 said:


> That anti sway hitch looks pretty sweet but its $$$$$$


Yup. But you'll have a few bucks in a decent Reese Dual Cam setup. And you'll have the Arrow forever. Towing will go from white knuckles and sweat soaked to a much more relaxing time. Look at it this way.... Would you pay two grand more for a trailer that didn't sway? Probably.....


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

You can tow that trailer no problem. Make sure the brakes are in excellent condition.

Are your trucks not HDs? I would have expected full floaters.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

2COR517;959396 said:


> Yup. But you'll have a few bucks in a decent Reese Dual Cam setup. And you'll have the Arrow forever. Towing will go from white knuckles and sweat soaked to a much more relaxing time. Look at it this way.... Would you pay two grand more for a trailer that didn't sway? Probably.....


I'd love to get it but I dont have nearly that much to spare. Maybe used or a cheaper brand? It's only goin on this trip once lol


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

2COR517;959401 said:


> You can tow that trailer no problem. Make sure the brakes are in excellent condition.
> 
> Are your trucks not HDs? I would have expected full floaters.


The breaks should be in good shape because the trailer has only been on the road one time in its life. I'll be able to get a better look at it because the wheels will be coming off to get new rubber. No the 2000's weren't considered "HD's"


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

Do you have an anti sway hitch now? Used Arrows are few and far between, and I don't think you'll see much savings. Keep your eye on CL, you never know. You might even run an ad to see if you could rent one from somebody I suppose.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

2COR517;959418 said:


> Do you have an anti sway hitch now? Used Arrows are few and far between, and I don't think you'll see much savings. Keep your eye on CL, you never know. You might even run an ad to see if you could rent one from somebody I suppose.


I don't have an anti sway hitch now just a regular pintle


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## JohnDeere2320 (Dec 12, 2009)

2COR517, We actually shrunk fit the the neck onto the hose so there was no danger of the hose coming off, as well as having one guy underneath keeping a close eye on everything. And as far as the oil being unfiltered, I wans't too concerned with it because i was pumping all new fluid into the tranny out of a brand new bucket. I thought about undoing a cooler line, but i was trying to avoid a possible leak. You're not kidding about it being messy, thank god I tarped the shop floor to avoid a mess. I attached some photos of the shrink fit, the actual flush process, and you can see the hole in the upper right of the photo of the bottom of the tranny where the hose hooks on.


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## tuna (Nov 2, 2002)

Brakes not Breaks,don`t get me started.....LOL :waving:


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

tuna;959432 said:


> Brakes not Breaks,don`t get me started.....LOL :waving:
> 
> 
> > thats embarrassing


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

chcav1218;959424 said:


> I don't have an anti sway hitch now just a regular pintle


For that distance, you really need a weight distributing hitch, even with your 3/4 ton. And you should have some form of anti-sway. The Reese dual-cam is probably the best next to a Hensley Arrow. Beg, borrow, steal, whatever you gotta do. Pulling that thing 1500 miles on a dead hitch is going to be a looooooong drive.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

John - that sure looks like the tough way to do that to me. But if it works.......


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Would a regular weight distributing hitch make things any easier? Like this one:

http://www.autoanything.com/towing/74A3914A0A0.aspx


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

That will help the truck handle the weight better, and reduce the see-sawing effect. But it won't do anything to reduce sway.

The W/D hitch is an absolute must. I hauled an improperly loaded trailer for less than a hundred miles. I destroyed the factory hitch, and bent the frame rail on my truck.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

2COR517;959599 said:


> That will help the truck handle the weight better, and reduce the see-sawing effect. But it won't do anything to reduce sway.
> 
> The W/D hitch is an absolute must. I hauled an improperly loaded trailer for less than a hundred miles. I destroyed the factory hitch, and bent the frame rail on my truck.


okay then I will definitly look in to getting something like that and hopefully something to help with sway


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## Detroitdan (Aug 15, 2005)

Sway comes from an improperly loaded or balanced trailer. It's very important to load it evenly, too much weight in the front of the trailer is going to multiply your tongue weight. This will unload your front suspension and hurt your steering and handling, too much weight in the rear of the trailer will cause it to sway and push your truck around. Lighten the trailer as much as possible, drain the tanks, they have water where you're going. Inspect or replace the tires and be sure they are properly inflated. Trailer tires tend to dryrot long before they ever wear out, from lack of use and sitting in the sun (I cover my tires) I stop every so often and walk around feeling the hubs for heat, quick way to tell if a wheel bearing or brake is acting up. You probably ought to repack the wheelbearings even though theres no miles on them, the grease breaks down from old age. At least inspect them to make sure they aren't dried out. I've seen a lot of trailers on the highway with a wheel gone because of wheelbearing failure.

That Curt WD hitch should be all you need, and it would be nice if you could borrow one, especially since this time of year not many people are hauling campers. Wouldn't know where to point you, I'd loan you one if I had one, but I don't. Those little sway controllers they sell to go on the WD hitch do work. And even if you load it perfectly and sway isn't a big problem, you never know when a gust of wind will catch it and push you around. Try to remember not to let the trailer drive the truck. That's what the manual brake controller is for, when the trailer gets squirrelly, apply some brake by hand without braking the truck, and the trailer brakes will pull the trailer right back in line. Can't tell you how many accidents I've been to on the highway where people crashed with a trailer because they had no trailer brakes, or no controller for them. I've had so many people tell me their truck brakes are capable of stopping the trailer too, well that may be so but not in an emergency situation or to control swaying.

Let us know if you find out the actual weight of the trailer. The GVWR should be posted on the outside somewhere, but the actual weight should be on a tag inside, probably inside a cabinet. Actual weight might be less than you think, however 35 is awful big for a bumper pull and it's pretty old, that was way before the ultralight stuff came about.

I've always heard about the tranny flush being bad for a high mileage tranny, but I've also heard that's an old wives tale. So I don't know what direction to point you in there.

Just be cautious and use your head, all the preparation you do first will pay off.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

chcav1218;959353 said:


> That anti sway hitch looks pretty sweet but its $$$$$$





2COR517;959498 said:


> For that distance, you really need a weight distributing hitch, even with your 3/4 ton. And you should have some form of anti-sway. The Reese dual-cam is probably the best next to a Hensley Arrow. Beg, borrow, steal, whatever you gotta do. Pulling that thing 1500 miles on a dead hitch is going to be a looooooong drive.


Couldn't agree more. When I used to work the boat shows I towed a 24' & 32' cargo trailer around the country with a Suprduty 48 weeks out of the year. The weight distribution system is like night and day, especially on that long of a trip. Your first few hours will be nerve racking, but you'll sink right into it after awhile. The best advice I can give you is to just go slow, and make small adjustments until you really know how it will handle.

Bring proper tools & floor jack along with a correct replacement bearing. Make sure the grease fittings are good an full of grease before taking off. Dry cracked tires are a recipe for disaster as well, especially on that long of a highway trip, so double check them before departing. The last thing you want to experience on your first trip with that big of a trailer is a tire falling off going down the highway. Flats aren't so bad, they feel alot worse then they are, but bearing failure is a real treat on that big of a trailer.

Good luck, once you hit the road you'll love it.


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## tuna (Nov 2, 2002)

I agree with what Repo said,how many boats do you see sitting on the side of the highway in the Summer? i see alot of them.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

I already plan on replacing the four tires because of dry rot. I went down today and pulled them off. I will be tire shopping tomorow. As far as the breaks and bearings go, I plan to take the camper to an RV shop close to where it is now and have everything inspected. I will be spending the next few weeks getting the camper and the truck ready for the trip. The hitch I have installed is a weight distributing hitch. If I already have that, do I need this too? http://www.autoanything.com/towing/74A3914A0A0.aspx Really all I need now is a brake controller and a transmission temp guage.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

There isn't already a temp gauge in your huh? I thought all the 2500 series and higher had them. You might want to check the dealer for a kit. 

You need those bars as well yes. The shop will have to align and install the trailer side brackets for you. They have to be configured just right. The ones I used were welded in place on the trailer.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

RepoMan207;960800 said:


> There isn't already a temp gauge in your huh? I thought all the 2500 series and higher had them. You might want to check the dealer for a kit.
> 
> You need those bars as well yes. The shop will have to align and install the trailer side brackets for you. They have to be configured just right. The ones I used were welded in place on the trailer.


No, my truck doesn't have one. I have an oil guage, and engine temp guage, gas, and voltometer. I will look into having a shop install the bars. Will they need the truck and the camper or will I be able to just drop off the camper and have all this work done at once?


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## jmc (Dec 22, 2009)

they need truck and trailer, loaded as you will be traveling. I have a drawtite, and it has a sway control option that goes on the WD hitch for $100. I had a 35' travel trailer, and it was a lot for my 2500 with out the sway addition when windy. WD is mandatory. Our trucks are rated for only 5000 lbs weight carrying, but it doubles with the WD hitch.


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

chcav1218;960821 said:


> No, my truck doesn't have one. I have an oil guage, and engine temp guage, gas, and voltometer. I will look into having a shop install the bars. Will they need the truck and the camper or will I be able to just drop off the camper and have all this work done at once?


No, truck & camper. They have to align it and measure with it hooked up. If I remember right they only took about a half hour to do it.

I would definitely check with your local dealer. I bet there is an add on kit available for your truck. Have your last 8 numbers of your Vin handy when you call. If they don't know there [email protected]@ from there elbow call 207-854-3200 and ask for GM Parts Retail section. They can get you what you want in and mail it out to you. If it's too much $$, a bigger RV place will have an aftermarket one available for install.

As far as the brake controller, there is also an OEM harness kit for that as well. If you don't already have it that is. It comes with The 7 pin connector & 4 pin connector, bracket, connecting harness for under the rear bumper, relays, fuse, and another connecting harness that plugs into the harness under the dash. Then you'll only need the actual controller that plugs into the later mentioned harness. I think it comes as a pig tail end that has to be spliced in. Not sure though.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

RepoMan207;960982 said:


> No, truck & camper. They have to align it and measure with it hooked up. If I remember right they only took about a half hour to do it.
> 
> I would definitely check with your local dealer. I bet there is an add on kit available for your truck. Have your last 8 numbers of your Vin handy when you call. If they don't know there [email protected]@ from there elbow call 207-854-3200 and ask for GM Parts Retail section. They can get you what you want in and mail it out to you. If it's too much $$, a bigger RV place will have an aftermarket one available for install.
> 
> As far as the brake controller, there is also an OEM harness kit for that as well. If you don't already have it that is. It comes with The 7 pin connector & 4 pin connector, bracket, connecting harness for under the rear bumper, relays, fuse, and another connecting harness that plugs into the harness under the dash. Then you'll only need the actual controller that plugs into the later mentioned harness. I think it comes as a pig tail end that has to be spliced in. Not sure though.


I'm planning on having someone install this all for me. Not my area of expertise at all. You're asying GM makes that type hitch for my truck? I saw a brake controller online someplace that appeared to have the 4 pin connector that you're talking about. http://www.autoanything.com/towing/65A3968A0A0.aspx


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Just got some new shoes for the camper today, I'll grab some pics later. Lookin at this hitch I found on craigslist. Just needs some paint from the looks of it. Trying to go check it out tomorow. New price is about $270 without the sway control and this comes with sway control. http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/pts/1548750341.html


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

Don't waste the money having the brake controller installed. You can get the harness that makes it a plug and play deal. I run Prodigy's on all the trucks never had a problem. If you are going to run a Tekonsha controller you will need a TK-3025-P harness it's like $14 retail. Oh and service your tranny!


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

chcav1218;961747 said:


> Just got some new shoes for the camper today, I'll grab some pics later. Lookin at this hitch I found on craigslist. Just needs some paint from the looks of it. Trying to go check it out tomorow. New price is about $270 without the sway control and this comes with sway control. http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/pts/1548750341.html


If you go used, make sure to put the bars in and feel for play in the joints. There supposed to have some give, but what happens is they wear out the bushings or whatever it is that is in there. I used to have to have them serviced every year, but I also put on about 150K - 200K miles per year, all with a trailer. Call your RV place and ask them about it, it's been awhile since I last used a set to remember in detail.



NICHOLS LANDSCA;961771 said:


> Don't waste the money having the brake controller installed. You can get the harness that makes it a plug and play deal. I run Prodigy's on all the trucks never had a problem. If you are going to run a Tekonsha controller you will need a TK-3025-P harness it's like $14 retail. Oh and service your tranny!


OEM...plug n play. good stuff.


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

chcav1218;961747 said:


> Just got some new shoes for the camper today, I'll grab some pics later. Lookin at this hitch I found on craigslist. Just needs some paint from the looks of it. Trying to go check it out tomorow. New price is about $270 without the sway control and this comes with sway control. http://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/pts/1548750341.html


The W/D part is OK. Those friction sway controls are better than nothing, but still not as good as a Reese Dual Cam. The DC basically locks the trailer and truck together preventing sway. The friction rigs try to stop sway after it starts. '


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

There pretty cool to watch in action.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

Just went out this morning and picked up that hitch with the sway control. got it for $125. I'm goin down to bolt on the wheels today. Next step is to get that brake controller so I can haul the camper over to the shop, have the brakes and bearings inspected and get everything greased up, and get that hitch installed. Hopefully after that it will all be smooth sailing


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## RepoMan207 (Oct 7, 2008)

Soooo, you just bought this, and now your moving it to a summer vaction spot or something? 

Good find on that hitch system. Those hitches alone are usually $75 to $150.


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## chcav1218 (Jul 31, 2008)

RepoMan207;962949 said:


> Soooo, you just bought this, and now your moving it to a summer vaction spot or something?
> 
> Good find on that hitch system. Those hitches alone are usually $75 to $150.


My plans exactly. But I'm trying to keep it roadworthy because I have always wanted to go on some trips. I like the hitch, I'm going to fix it up a little and then have it installed.


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