# Best way to charge for snow removal



## Bchlawns

Hello,
What do you guys charge for a double care wide driveway? Also how do you charge for like apartment complexes? Do u charge by the hour of like $70, or by each time you plow, or by inches? How do you figure out a price to charge per plow depending on snow amounts. I hear some guys talk about plow by the amount of snow, how do you do that? What is the going rate for plowing by inches?
Thanks
Bchlawns


----------



## kl0an

You just need to browse the threads on this site to see several that talk about these things. From monthly billing to per event billing.. Some are broken down by inches of snow and some add salting/sanding services as well. It also depends on where you are and the competition you have..


----------



## avalancheplow

Here in the northeast a lot of guys charge by per inch and base it on the national weather service records per storm. I charge by approx inches on lot, because the national weather service doesnt' do every town. I try to figure out how long each place takes and use $125 per hour to figure what the per inch charge is.


----------



## Bchlawns

Avalancheplow,
How do you figure out a per inch charge going off $125 per hour?
Thanks


----------



## kl0an

If a 100 X 100 foot lot take ya 30 minutes to do with 2 inches, it might take you 45 with 5, 60 with 8, etc..

So, if they get 2 inches, you charge half an hour, at 6 inches, you charge the whole hour..


----------



## avalancheplow

As an example: if plowing two inches would take 30 min. then the first 1-3" would be the min. I would charge $100 ( I use $100 as a min charge), and then an additional $60 every 2" after that so: 1-3" $100, 4-5" $160, 6-7" $220. This is just the way I do it. There are many different ways. Use the way to get the most money payup


----------



## Mick

While most methods are based on an hourly rate, most do not charge hourly for several reasons. The two mains reasons for not charging hourly are the customer's perception and that you are then limited in the amount you can make from any given job. The more efficient you become, the less you make. Perception by the customer is that you are overcharging: For instance, if you charge $30 for an area that you can efficiently plow in 15 minutes, the customer will not be likely to balk at that. However, if you charge $120 an hour (the same as $30 for 15 minutes), you are likely to get a completely different response. Now if you charge $120 an hour (and the customer agrees), you might plow his driveway in 1/2 hour and charge $60. Ok. Then, as you get experince, you might cut that down to 20 minutes. So, do you now charge $40 for the same area that you first charged $60? My advise is to set a price for any given job, especially being fairly new to plowing. Don't worry about being too high or too low. If you're too high, you won't get the job and if you do, good for you. If too low, you'll figure that out the first winter and adjust. It's just part of the learning process.

Regarding the increments: first decide what you'll have for a "trigger". Don't let customers talk you into a higher trigger "just for them" or you'll wind up damaging your equipment and souring relationships with other customers. Triggers are usually a factor of custom. Around here, I use a 3" trigger. Then base you increments on realistic spans that will work for you. I use the following:

3" to 6" - $xx (ie: $30)
over 6" to 9" $xx times 1 1/2 ($45)
over 9" to 12" $xx times 2 ($60)
over 12" $xx times 2 plus $yyy per inch over 12"

I apply the depth to the total snowfall in a 24 hour period regardless of how many times I plow it. This allows me to determine when to plow based on the characteristics of the snow. Wet and heavy I plow more often than light and fluffy. Obviously, for some people, especially those with retail accounts, this method would not work.

Another thing I would suggest is to not have gaps in your increments. For instance: avalancheplow might get a couple of arguments. 1 - what would you charge for 3 1/2 inches? 2. Why would you charge more than twice the amount for plowing 6" ($220) than 3" ($100)? I'd rather you come and plow 3" twice, even though that would take you longer in driving and cost more in gas.

Hope all this helps a little.


----------



## Bchlawns

Thanks for all the help!!!! Mick, what kind of tired do u use for snow removal or what kind would u recomend?
Thanks Bchlawns


----------



## Mick

You're welcome, Bchlawns. Before I forget, there is another method I started using last winter that's going over real good. One guy asked for a set amount so I offered him the rate for a 6" to 9" and used it for anything up to 12". He preferred that every time, even for a 2" push when he asked for it. We agreed there would be an extra charge for anything over 12". It simplified things for him since he just kept track of how many times it snowed and he'd know how much he owed. Then I started explaining it and offering it to others. So far, everyone wants it, even though they pay a little more for smaller snowfalls.

Bchlawns, I assume you meant to ask about tires (rather than "tired"). There are quite a few out there that guys swear by. I simply bought a set of Cooper Discoverer M&S tires that I studded and have used for three winters so far and still have real good tread. They come off in April when the snow goes. There have been several discussions here about tires and you might do a search for "tires" and read away.


----------



## Bchlawns

Mick,
I see that you are from Maine where you get a lot more snow than we do in ohio, but just for my knowledge, how much do u quote people on for 6"-9" like u said above. So you are saying you charge the rate from snow 6"-9" and use that for anything up to 12". I just dont know what method to go with. Here in Ohio its seems to me that everyone charges per hour and that is about 65-80$. A lot of guys figure that for 2" and anything more they charge more. I think they are saying they get 65-80 per plow and anything over 2" they charge more. What would you charge for more than 2"?
Thanks Bchlawns


----------



## fga

I go by the amount of snow that has fallen. I don't really like "by the hour" estimates, cuz why would you ever get more efficient and faster equipment. i have categories.... 2" - 4", 5" - 7",etc. 

i started making money doing snow, with just shovels ay first, then snow blower, now a plow, and i'm upgrading truck and plow this year. i'm getting similar money that did in the beginning, just alot faster. (yes, my first season, there was this small 5 car lot i did with shovels!!)


----------



## Mick

I charge a minimum of $25 which would cover the two car wide, maybe 50' driveway in your example. There is a lot of difference in our environments, like you said. Here, very, very few driveways will be like you're saying. Here, we have mostly long driveways (40 feet to a mile) with a parking area (maybe 30'x50') at the end in front of the house or garage. I usually figure $100 per mile for a private road (3" to 6"). So, what I'd do is offer a rate of $35 or $40 (to keep it even) or $150 per mile, for anything up to 12" in a 24 hour period.

As for apartment complexes, I'd advise first getting some experience with driveways for the first year or so. You'll run into a whole different set of problems with them. You will need to carefully figure how to clear the parking spots and how to get the snow to where it gets piled. You may need additional equipment, like a Bobcat or truck snow offsite in which case you'll need loaders and dump trucks. And a place to dump it. You will also need to figure clearing the sidewalks. You need to advise your insurance company as most will have a different rate for multiple dwelling sites.

Maybe someone from your area can chime in with things I'm not mentioning?


----------



## ratlover

You may want to do some looking into applying salt too. It makes it easier to do your job, gives you extra $, and it may be a selling point that gets you a contract. 

Being a sub for another guy for the first year give you a chance to learn the ropes a bit and concentrate just on plowing and not have to worry about the bizz stuff. You can get a feel for what it takes and you may pick up quite a bit working with an experienced contractor. And you dont have to worry about making a bad name foryourself in your first unexperienced year. You wont make as much $ as a sub but it will have alot less headach especially if you are just concentrating on moving snow and not all the other stuff. Just another thought.....


----------



## Bchlawns

thanks for the info again mick and others


----------



## DJC

> _Originally posted by Mick _
> *You're welcome, Bchlawns. Before I forget, there is another method I started using last winter that's going over real good. One guy asked for a set amount so I offered him the rate for a 6" to 9" and used it for anything up to 12". He preferred that every time, even for a 2" push when he asked for it. We agreed there would be an extra charge for anything over 12". It simplified things for him since he just kept track of how many times it snowed and he'd know how much he owed. Then I started explaining it and offering it to others. So far, everyone wants it, even though they pay a little more for smaller snowfalls.
> 
> Bchlawns, I assume you meant to ask about tires (rather than "tired"). There are quite a few out there that guys swear by. I simply bought a set of Cooper Discoverer M&S tires that I studded and have used for three winters so far and still have real good tread. They come off in April when the snow goes. There have been several discussions here about tires and you might do a search for "tires" and read away. *


----------



## Dwan

Here we just charge by the hour, as we improve or upgrade the equipment we rase the price acordingly, 

get paid for what you do and do what you get paid for.


----------



## kl0an

So Dwan, if you improve your time you get paid less for plowing the same amount?? I know I started a parking lot last year and the first time I plowed it, it took me 7 hours, by the 3rd time I was down to 4.. Should I have charged less once I got my pattern down?? What incentive do I have to be more efficient??


----------



## Mick

If I'm understanding it, kl0an, he would be charging more per hour and getting the same amount of money. I just think it'd be confusing for the customer to get billed that way, but it's just my opinion.


----------



## Dwan

Kloan;
I have been plowing for over 25 years and find that after a few times in the same lot there is not much one can improve on to save time other then new and better equipment. When I plow a lot that has signed a contract for the first time I only charge 75% of my normal billing because it does take me a little longer but after a few times it will be charged at 100%. This id not to say you or any buddy else should do it this way it is just the way I do it and it works well for me. I do not try to cheat my customers. They only have to pay for the amount of work I do and nothing more.
again I am not saying that billing by the job is wrong because the customer can budget better for that type of billing but in my personal opinion I don't like it.


----------



## Bchlawns

what is a good salt spreader for a tailgate hitch to start out with and not to expensive to get me going?
Thanks Bchlawns


----------



## ratlover

Customers seem to freak more about seeing some high per hour amount, it seems to be a mental thing.


----------



## drafto

I want to add a question to this post if you guys don't mind. I charge by the inch, always have. This year I am chasing some larger accounts that need constant attention (1 is a 24 hour convenience store). Here is my question: If I am charging by the inch to clear a parking lot, how do I charge just to keep it open during big storms? Should that somehow be included in my per inch price? Is this clear? Please post if you need more info.

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## Mick

Dan, you will probably want to start using seasonal pricing, especially in the case of those 24 hr convenience stores. Most larger retail and industrial customers will expect it, anyway, for business expense planning. Talk to the manager/owner and see if there is a Request for Proposal. Figure how much you will need to commit to meet thier needs.


----------



## Bchlawns

ratlover how do u charge if u dont charge by the hour?


----------



## drafto

Thanks for the reply Mick. I once did a civic association down here for a seasonal price, it was a total loser, predictaing a price was like predicting the weather? This is what you mean by seasonal price correct? Say, $2000 for the winter of 2004-2005, just as an example. I just want to make sure I know what you are saying. If this is how you are suggesting then I am lost as far as pricing..........please reply to help me out here. I have been in the business about 8 years, mostly as a sub until the last 2 years, I am okay at pricing my time to give a per inch estimate ususally making a good profit, but the one time I priced by the season, I lost.


----------



## ratlover

per push based on Inches.....sometimes you may charge em a partial push based on a drift or the like. But like was kinda mentioned if a place expects you to have the drive lanes cleared and later come back for clear plowing then you base that into your bid. The best thing to do is talk with the customer to see what their expectations are and explain what your service will provide as you are sending back the $. Sometimes you will eat a cost of some clean up to make em happy or eat the cost of blasting a drift, sometimes they should eat the cost if its because they had a couple of cars in the way the entire time and now got em moved and want you to make a return trip. If its a place that is constantly drifting and you are expected to keep it open then you need to factor that into your bid(but make sure they know you are factoring it in)

Basicly everybody needs to be on the same page for what is expected and what will be provided for what kind of $. Sometimes you need to go a little further to make em happy, everybody needs to compromise and be understanding at times. Sell yourself on service not on cost though!!!

Yes season is based on a historical average basicly. It can be good to have a mix of seasonal and per push contracts. Every area is different on what price they will tolerate and what kinda contracts they like though, seosonal dont seem too big here. Make sure there is a blizzard clause though. Every one is happy in the end, your customers get a lower bid because you dont have to worry about covering yourself for that and if you dont provide for a possible blizzard you dont get killed if it hits. It goes back to making sure every one is on the same page, your customer needs to understand that you are just protecting yourself but this helps you provide the level of service that you are selling em on. Discount for multipul year contracts though, but if you are unsure of seasonal stuff it may hurt you. But if you have a rough winter one year you should get it back unless you are massivly under your mark.


----------



## ratlover

by the per push.....there is a rate for 6" say. If I plow it twice just to save wear on my truck then thats 1 push, but if there are 2 seperate storms that hit close its 2 pushes. Make sense?


----------



## Bchlawns

thanks ratlover


----------



## Mick

I had a long reply written a couple of hours ago and I accidently deteled it. Got aggravated and didn't want to go through it all again so hoped someone else would cover it. Looks like ratlover got it. Thanks, ratlover.

Seasonal can be good for you. At the worst, you shouldn't actually lose money. You need to know the historical averages in your area for number of snowfalls and depths for each snowfall. I use a 30 year average, but I forget the web address for the site I got it from. Now you need to talk to the potential customer and know their expectations or have a Request for Proposal, if there is one. Figure out what resources you will need to commit to this site. Important is getting a multiple year contract (at least three years) to avoid that one year with snowfall way above average where you get killed. Include a Storm Clause for any one storm over a certain amount. Include extra equipment needed to be an additional charge (for Front End Loaders or Dump Trucks).

As an illustration - I had a seasonal contract for a few years that was a driveway an out-of-state owner wanted kept cleared for when they decided to visit. I wound up making $500/hr one year with way below average snowfall. They didn't care one way or another as their needs were met and they knew how much it was going to cost for the whole winter.


----------



## Bchlawns

thanks mick, appreciate the help


----------



## ratlover

Much more eloquent than my post


----------



## jordydme

kl0an said:


> If a 100 X 100 foot lot take ya 30 minutes to do with 2 inches, it might take you 45 with 5, 60 with 8, etc..
> 
> So, if they get 2 inches, you charge half an hour, at 6 inches, you charge the whole hour..


Nice advise, thank you for that formula

Jordan

__________
http://ulster-lawn-and-snow.com/


----------



## ProWorkz.com

> Customers seem to freak more about seeing some high per hour amount, it seems to be a mental thing.


Charge by the inch and push must be a east coast thing. I do not know one snow service that does that on the west coast. And I have been plowing for over 10 years..... Though I have seen a contracted set price for the year...

Hourly rate works great for companys that get the job done effieciently. I have been charging by the hour for many years. I bill to the minute. If I plow 38 minutes. That is what I bill for.

Anyway, good luck to all you people this winter... :waving:


----------



## LwnmwrMan22

BCHLawns -

Personally I run set contracted rates / month.

I run solo, so I'm not worried about blowing my rates out of the water with overtime or any other wages.

I try to average $75-100 / hour.

On average here in MN, we have 18 snow events / year with a 1.5" trigger.

Take your 24 hour store for example.

I do a gas station, takes about an hour to plow.

At $100 / hour, that's $100 per event, multiply by 18 for the season, $1800.

Now divide that $1800 by 6 since I bill out for 6 months, and you have a $300 / month flat fee.

I've got 15 accounts set up like this, give or take $50 more or less than the $300 / month on each one, and do them all in about 12-15 hours each time it snows.

Personally it works out well for me, since I can cover all my bills in the winter, house payment, 2 truck payments, insurance, etc.

I do have one auto parts store that's $100 / 150 / 200 for different snow depths per 24 hour period, so that'll cover my fuel costs each time it snows.

Last year here in MN, I didn't plow for November, December or January and ended up collecting payment for 3 months of no work.

I plowed a total of 7 times for the year, averaging $296 / hour when I did plow. 

I know it can go the other way too, but the 30 event year is just as unlikely as the 7 event year.

Plus, with being solo, and having the one account that covers my fuel, and this being my only job in the winter, I'm really not out that much besides my time.

I'd rather have the guaranteed income, albeit a little less than some, rather than have those months where you're not having any income and have to start looking for another source of income for a month or two.

But, this formula doesn't work for everyone either.


----------



## M-Pact Snow

bchlawns:
where in ohio are you located? im from the northeast ohio area and if you have any questions reguarding this area i will surley help. so if you want you can call me 33-718-0084.

Fred M-Pact Snow


----------



## M-Pact Snow

M-Pact Snow said:


> bchlawns:
> where in ohio are you located? im from the northeast ohio area and if you have any questions reguarding this area i will surley help. so if you want you can call me 33-718-0084.
> 
> Fred M-Pact Snow


ooops its 330-718-0084


----------



## lorentzlawnsnow

*figuring estimates*

i live in ohio, just south of mansfield, most of my work is in that city. i mainly deal with apartment complexes.

i always plow with the storm.- say every time there is 1.5 to 2 inches on the ground i go through and hit everything. some places get plowed 5 or 6 times during a large snowfall depending on how productive i can be. plowing at night is more productive because there are less idiots out there sitting in your way waiting for you to move. i never get any complaints because the lot is constantly cleared. i charge them a flat rate for every time the lot is cleared.

i figure the rate based on an hourly rate, but i charge them a flat rate based on my calculations to eliminate any confusion, and it makes it look better to the customer.

plowing at every couple inches takes care of the need for different rates for different depths of snow because deeper snows will just be plowed more so they will be charged accordingly.

i hope this helps and if anyone has any advice for me i'm always open to it.


----------



## snodinn

*LOL (Laughing Out Loud)*



ratlover said:


> per push based on Inches.....sometimes you may charge em a partial push based on a drift or the like. But like was kinda mentioned if a place expects you to have the drive lanes cleared and later come back for clear plowing then you base that into your bid. The best thing to do is talk with the customer to see what their expectations are and explain what your service will provide as you are sending back the $. Sometimes you will eat a cost of some clean up to make em happy or eat the cost of blasting a drift, sometimes they should eat the cost if its because they had a couple of cars in the way the entire time and now got em moved and want you to make a return trip. If its a place that is constantly drifting and you are expected to keep it open then you need to factor that into your bid(but make sure they know you are factoring it in)
> 
> Basicly everybody needs to be on the same page for what is expected and what will be provided for what kind of $. Sometimes you need to go a little further to make em happy, everybody needs to compromise and be understanding at times. Sell yourself on service not on cost though!!!
> 
> Yes season is based on a historical average basicly. It can be good to have a mix of seasonal and per push contracts. Every area is different on what price they will tolerate and what kinda contracts they like though, seosonal dont seem too big here. Make sure there is a blizzard clause though. Every one is happy in the end, your customers get a lower bid because you dont have to worry about covering yourself for that and if you dont provide for a possible blizzard you dont get killed if it hits. It goes back to making sure every one is on the same page, your customer needs to understand that you are just protecting yourself but this helps you provide the level of service that you are selling em on. Discount for multipul year contracts though, but if you are unsure of seasonal stuff it may hurt you. But if you have a rough winter one year you should get it back unless you are massivly under your mark.


I just realized that I am posting to messages from June of 2004. But your information is sure helping me in 2005 . . . I would like to know if in a multi-seasonal contract, do you put a cost of fuel, or labor cost clause?


----------



## Mick

snodinn said:


> I just realized that I am posting to messages from June of 2004. But your information is sure helping me in 2005 . . . I would like to know if in a multi-seasonal contract, do you put a cost of fuel, or labor cost clause?


Not usually, although you might want to put in a "fuel cost increase" clause to cover in case fuel goes up more than a certain percentage over the life of the contract. What you might want to consider is a graduated amount over the term of the contract to account for expected inflation. Say: 2005/6 - $1000; 2006/7 - $1100, 2007/8 - $1200.


----------



## bigjeeping

*I Need Help*

Mick.. you seem pretty well versed in the whole snow plowing thing.
Please look at this contract and let me know what you think, especially with my pricing. It took me a couple hours to write up and I have been trying to get some feedback on it, but not much so far.

*BTW this "service agreement" is for RESIDENTIAL only!!!*

SOMEONE HELP!


----------



## snodinn

*Big Questin*

Is there anyone out there that plows roads? It is looking real good for me to get the contracts in this area with two different companies, but I am wondering if I am off my rocker to think I can do the job with a Dodge RAM 2500, Heavy Duty, 4X4, 6 speed, Cummins Diesel, Crew Cab, Short box, with an 8 foot Boss V plow?

The roads are all gravel, and wider then one vehicle width, but in places not much. I will drive them, well do a lot of walking and throw the bigger rocks off, but from what I have been hearing from some people who know . . . isn't very encouraging.

The road where I live is one of the ones that I would need to plow and we are looking at plowing 10 miles. The man in charge of giving out the contract from what I have learned here and my gut reaction, seems to be pretty accurate with advice. He said I would need to quote on doing three passes, and the rule of thumb here is get out plowing once it has snowed four inches.

Both companies have agreed to two rates . . . one for plowing with the truck and another rate for a grader to push the banks back periodically.

Then there will be two other roads that would be that many miles or more. Am I crazy to think this truck and plow could stand up to that for a seaon?


----------



## Mick

bigjeeping said:


> Mick.. you seem pretty well versed in the whole snow plowing thing.
> Please look at this contract and let me know what you think, especially with my pricing. It took me a couple hours to write up and I have been trying to get some feedback on it, but not much so far.
> 
> *BTW this "service agreement" is for RESIDENTIAL only!!!*
> 
> SOMEONE HELP!


I read about half way through it and stopped. I certainly wouldn't sign it. A lot of things, but as an example - Where I stopped was when it said something like "if you live on the beginning of the route, you may get plowed twice and billed twice...". So you're going to charge me twice as much as the last guy you plowed for the same amount of snow, even if I didn't request special service?

You're going to hold me responsible if you knock over and bury the markers?

I only get one week to make payment? The mail can take longer than that.

I can't pay you cash while you're there?

Go to the SIMA site you've seen referred to and ask about contracts. You may need to pay membership fees.


----------



## Mick

snodinn said:


> Is there anyone out there that plows roads? It is looking real good for me to get the contracts in this area with two different companies, but I am wondering if I am off my rocker to think I can do the job with a Dodge RAM 2500, Heavy Duty, 4X4, 6 speed, Cummins Diesel, Crew Cab, Short box, with an 8 foot Boss V plow?
> 
> The roads are all gravel, and wider then one vehicle width, but in places not much. I will drive them, well do a lot of walking and throw the bigger rocks off, but from what I have been hearing from some people who know . . . isn't very encouraging.
> 
> The road where I live is one of the ones that I would need to plow and we are looking at plowing 10 miles. The man in charge of giving out the contract from what I have learned here and my gut reaction, seems to be pretty accurate with advice. He said I would need to quote on doing three passes, and the rule of thumb here is get out plowing once it has snowed four inches.
> 
> Both companies have agreed to two rates . . . one for plowing with the truck and another rate for a grader to push the banks back periodically.
> 
> Then there will be two other roads that would be that many miles or more. Am I crazy to think this truck and plow could stand up to that for a seaon?


I plow private roads. These are generally about twelve feet wide. I started with a 1/2 ton Dodge 4x4 and now use a Chevy 3500. The Dodge did fine. The trick is in the tires (traction), engine torque and being able to keep windrowing (not building up a snow load).

BUT - Just how bid are these rocks you're "throwing off"? Do cars drive on these roads?


----------



## snodinn

*Just how bad are these roads!*



Mick said:


> I plow private roads. These are generally about twelve feet wide. I started with a 1/2 ton Dodge 4x4 and now use a Chevy 3500. The Dodge did fine. The trick is in the tires (traction), engine torque and being able to keep windrowing (not building up a snow load).
> 
> BUT - Just how bid are these rocks you're "throwing off"? Do cars drive on these roads?


Well to drive 20 miles from Dubreuilville to Lochalsh in the summer time takes anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes. But, yes cars drive on these roads, but slowly. We just had this road graded and since there isn't a lot of material, and no money to have gravel delivered and spread. The roads are bush roads, so aren't graded often. The rocks would be baseball size and up. The width is one to two vehicles wide. Some places the three bush roads I would be plowing are narrow. I plan on inspecting all of the roads this weekend, and then will decide if I really want to go ahead and quote. Then I will see if I can get paid for prep work on them. I.e. cleaning off large rocks and marking places where I might be able to push extra snow.

Have you ever driven a Dodge Cummins or is the spelling 'Cummings' Diesel truck. It is a standard 6 speed transmission and the torque is unbelieveable. I couldn't believe the power. A friend suggested that I buy studded tires. It has recently been made legal to run studs here, then in the spring put my regular tires back on.

So you would make sure that you drive at a steady speed to help throw the snow further? Also I have been told there is an attachment that you can add to the plow that encourages the snow to funnel further off the road. Would you suggest something like this?

Thank you.


----------



## snodinn

*The URL (address) for the SIMA site please?*

Also do we have any Boss Plow people out there? I am wondering what parts I might want to stock for bush road plowing. I am supposed to be getting a Boss, 8 foot V plow.

The plow was actually on the truck before the original owner of the truck traded it in. Unfortunately, he didn't know we were looking and so had the plow removed. He used the plow a minimum amount and wants $5500 CDN for it. Then I will have to pay to have it reinstalled.


----------



## Mick

The main things I see as I read this are:

1) That your truck needs to be a 4 wheel drive. (The spelling is Cummins.)
2) It sounds like there may be problems with the road surface firmness. If so, before the ground is frozen, there would be a real problem with causing ruts and the plow digging into the ground. To solve the digging, you need to keep the plow raised an inch or so. But this is a problem if the truck is causing rutting or there is existing rutting.

I don't think I'd throw off any rocks. If cars can drive on them, your truck can. As they get frozen into the ground, they'll provide a good base. Another concern will be sanding or salting, especially if there are hills. Gravel surfaces are notorious for getting slick from packed snow or ice film, even more than asphalt or concrete, because of the unevenness of the surface.

Yes, drive at a steady, even pace. I recommend studs on tires but stud all of the tires or the drive tires will overpower the unstudded ones (usually front) when you brake. Push the snow as far off the road as possible to allow for future snow. But be mindful of where the edge of the road is. If the edge slopes downward, it's very possible that the truck will get pulled or slide sideways and you will be stuck. I always take pictures in October before the first snow and review them often before the first push. You might want to take the pictures with you.

The attachment you mention is likely a wing that attaches to the side of the plow. I suppose you could if you want. Another attachment is also called a Wing, but it's bigger and attaches to the side of the truck and is hydraulically operated independent of the plow. As an example: http://www.sidewing.net/ . For ten miles of road, I'd probably recommend the sidewing.

http://www.sima.org/


----------



## T-MAN

Sheila tell your son to stay away from the Boss V for Bush road plowing. Way to hard on the operator, truck, and plow ! These plows dont trip very well (if at all) and at speed in some rough stuff you may get some very abrupt stops (kissing the windshield stuff) . Go for a straight 9' full trip blade. The Cummins will push the 9 footer no sweat and keep your tires on the road instead of stuck in a ditch in the middle of no where ! That Boss V will do okay in a parking lot but not out doing roadwork. 
I purchased my salt spreader from a fellow doing roadwork with a Boss V, he stoped allright (no trip) bent his truck frame, tore one wing just about off. He caught a man hole cover sticking up about 3/4".
Also make sure you push them piles back good from the get go, dont need to be runnin out of room on the 3rd or 4th storm eh !
Todd


----------



## Acmemechanic

*re;PRICEING*

I have lived here in southern New England most of my life and worked storms since i was about 17.
I find that:3 To 6
6 to 9
9 to 12
12 and over = Blizzard ;Per hour per piece required.
Sanding;one price per pass requested.
F-250 = 75/hr
F-800 = 85/hr
Backhoe/loader = 125/hr
But I also lived in the finger lakes region of New York State 2yrs ago and there i was introduced to a new concept lump sum contract.Ie;$9000 payment and snow and ice are now my problem.That seems alot like going to a casino and rolling dice to me but I saw many contracts done that way.Theres no way I am ever gonna bid like that.I also added a fuel surcharge clause when fuel spiked and all customers were understanding.


----------



## lawnandplow42

charge per push on residential


----------



## Procharged GTA

Hi....we are new to the snow plowing scene, and was wondering if the price rates that you all are talking about includes salting and the price of the salt, or is this just for plowing and all the salting is extra charge? We would really appreciate the help... Thanks!!


----------



## maxwellp

Take a look at this thread.
http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=150856


----------



## Eboucher

Hi guys, new to the scene and i hear you throwing the term "event" around a lot, do you consider an event to be one storm. or do you consider and event every time you plow? IE one snow storm but you have to plow the same lot 9 times. would you say that was one or 9? 

best regards

the new guy


----------



## framer1901

One mans storm is another mans event, but real men just get going when it starts accumulating and stop right after it stops.

We're thinking about charging by the pound this year for snow services, around $.20/# or for you Great White North folks, that would be roughly .08 Looneys/kilo.

I hate this time of year.....................


----------



## Eboucher

kinda figured that, and guess the sarcasm was deserved. appreciate the response though


----------



## SnowBird1973

*Bulk salt Pricing installed BALTIMORE MD*

Hi all,

New to this website

I am wondering if someone could tell me a good price range for bulk salt applied. We have been charging $16-18 a bag installed with an average of 5-15 bags per lot and now we have a property that is taking 1-3 pallets per snowstorm. Tried to lower per bag price to $13 and still receiving complaints.

wondering what a fare price is for a half ton to 1 ton installed on a property that needs 1-3 tons


----------



## framer1901

eh, just having one of those sarcastic days. I hear people talking about storms and events all the time - what's a storm? In Columbus OH, maybe 4" is a "storm" whereas Park City Utah that's a dusting.

I really just classify everything as an event or happening, even 12" overnight lake effect is an event that takes a bit longer


----------



## Eboucher

Hi All, I know this topic has been done to death... so please don't beat me for asking. I started plowing last year and had a lot of success. I have figured out a good price system for driveways and such but I need help finding a starting place for one in particular. One of my neighbors approached me and asked if I would take care of them this year. Its a homeowners association with 2 houses on their own private road. Its roughly 2 passes wide maybe 3, and is 700-800 feet from end to end. its a strait push from start to finish, no cul-de-sac, it just dead ends past the last house so its not a very complicated job. There is also no driveway clearing involved. How would you guys go about pricing a private road per push on a 1-3, 3-6... scale? I don't want to over shoot or sell my self short. 

any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## thelettuceman

Eboucher: Why not take a property that you are currently plowing and scale up the measurements to answer your question.


----------

