# Can Power steering run the plow?



## PiratePlow

I am in the process of triing to use my power steering pump to run my plow. Has anyone else tried this? problems? success?

88 ford bronco, 302/5.0l 7.5' fisher plow blade.. and I custom fabed out most of the mounting ware. I liked the blade because it was so light weight... about 100 lbs. attached is the original layout. 

In case anyone else is considering this task, I'll list things I tried and problems I found.

I bought a bigger "extra duty" power steering pump. I originally was triing to also tie in an aditional remote reservoir, but that was not working. 

I hooked up the whole system and it kept foaming the fluid and the pump kept being drawn down to empty.

When I kicked the engine on, the pump would empty out.. basically it pushed all the fluid thru and it was collecting in the reservoir.. even to the point of over filling it.. 

I tried to correct this by:

capping off the pumps reservoir making it a sealed system.. This stopped most of the foaming, but made the pump whine (there was alot of vaccume on the pump now).

capping off the remote reservoir (uncapping the pump) This also cut the foaming issue but the cap was bulging at the reservoir.. the pump was low so I added some fluid (while running) when I shut down the system, them pump levels rose and over flowed massively..

SO.. I've pulled the remote reservoir thought and will just have to see if the pump will hold enough to cover the lift ram. (Since the 2 angle rams cancel each other out in fluid volumes, ie 1 closes while other one opens.. the fluid volume in the system is the same.. only the lift ram is drawing from the system)


The fluid I was using also may be an issue.. I am using ISO 32 hydraulic fluid.. as opposed to power steering fluid.. 

Some experts have probly cringed at things I've done.. right or wrong, listing all the steps is the only way we learn...

There was too much foam for the lines to work right.. and it's 20 degrees out.. so will let it sit awhile and see if my power steering comes back up.. then if the lines will open my rams..


more to come...


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## PiratePlow

*damn.. i think I figured out the main problem*

It occured to me that I was able to see the fluids flowing so well through the reservoir when i had it hooked into the system...

that means the pump is always pushing.. the circuits are always open..
which means when I turn the steering wheel to call for power, that open loop is diverted to use the fluids power/flow/psi BUT! with the other circuit open (the plow system) the fluid will "take the path of least resistance" .. that is.. it will flow through the open plow circuit and not put the force in the steering as i need it.. and visa versa with the plow system.

So, the only way I MIGHT be able to get this type of system to work, would be to have another valve that directs the flow to exclusively 1 circuit at a time.. That is: either the flow/power ccan go to the plow or the steering, but not at the same time.

I'ts just a theory.. if there's any hydraulic nuts out there.. feel free to elaborate please.


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## Mebes

I think the pump needs to be before the reservoir.
Like a well system on a house.

If you have a reservoir full of pressure, and oil from the pump coming in the top, then out of the bottom going to the rams and steering box then you will have slower hydraulics when multitasking (plow, and steering at the same time).

The reservoir will need to be able to withstand the pressures of the pump.
The pump must be able to deliver enough fluid.
The air that is trapped in the top of the tank will help to push fluid down the lines when the pump can't keep up.

Good luck.


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## 85F150

it will work, but please tell me you are not using the stock ford PLASTIC pump. It can barely move the tires with teh plow up in the air at an idle. YOu would be better off with the SAginaw pump that came on the vans, or most older gm vehicles. They are a higher volume pump that with slight mods are used to power hydraulic steering even. In my truck with the plow up and at an idle, it turns easier than my 96 t-bird. 

If you have swapped cool, but that ford pump won't last long, also since you are using it for steering to, i would add an inline cooler to help reduce stress on the pump.


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## Frozen001

PiratePlow said:


> I am in the process of triing to use my power steering pump to run my plow. Has anyone else tried this? problems? success?
> 
> 88 ford bronco, 302/5.0l 7.5' fisher plow blade.. and I custom fabed out most of the mounting ware. I liked the blade because it was so light weight... about 100 lbs. attached is the original layout.
> 
> In case anyone else is considering this task, I'll list things I tried and problems I found.
> 
> I bought a bigger "extra duty" power steering pump. I originally was triing to also tie in an aditional remote reservoir, but that was not working.
> 
> I hooked up the whole system and it kept foaming the fluid and the pump kept being drawn down to empty.
> 
> When I kicked the engine on, the pump would empty out.. basically it pushed all the fluid thru and it was collecting in the reservoir.. even to the point of over filling it..
> 
> I tried to correct this by:
> 
> capping off the pumps reservoir making it a sealed system.. This stopped most of the foaming, but made the pump whine (there was alot of vaccume on the pump now).
> 
> capping off the remote reservoir (uncapping the pump) This also cut the foaming issue but the cap was bulging at the reservoir.. the pump was low so I added some fluid (while running) when I shut down the system, them pump levels rose and over flowed massively..
> 
> SO.. I've pulled the remote reservoir thought and will just have to see if the pump will hold enough to cover the lift ram. (Since the 2 angle rams cancel each other out in fluid volumes, ie 1 closes while other one opens.. the fluid volume in the system is the same.. only the lift ram is drawing from the system)
> 
> The fluid I was using also may be an issue.. I am using ISO 32 hydraulic fluid.. as opposed to power steering fluid..
> 
> Some experts have probly cringed at things I've done.. right or wrong, listing all the steps is the only way we learn...
> 
> There was too much foam for the lines to work right.. and it's 20 degrees out.. so will let it sit awhile and see if my power steering comes back up.. then if the lines will open my rams..
> 
> more to come...


May I ask why you don't just go out and get a clutch operated hydro pump...???

Seems to me if a hose would fail, not only will your plow not work, but you would not longer be able to drive the vehicle....


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## murphyslaw

yes you can use ur power steering pump for the plow. yes it would be easier to just get a clutch operated pump. i used the power steering pump on my 69 Chevy 1ton to run the boom and winches(tow truck) the Saginaw pumps are rated around 2,400 psi but only like 1.4gpm(slow) you need to place the reserve be for the pump(return line) the filter needs to be on the return line befor the reserve(if not the pump has to work really hard to get fluid) place the reserve above the pump and place a non vented cap(most are vented) on the power steering pump. this will prevent the over flow with the engine off. I used ATF because of its anti-foaming property's. You can tie Ur plow supply line in to the pressure side of the pump home(be for the steering box) but beware I'm not sure how this will react with the plow but on my wrecker when i was running a wench or the boom i had NO steering it LOCKED the wheel. i figured it was cause the lack of flow or the excessive pressure created by the winches. make sure you have a vented cap on the reserve with a few inches of expansion room(for when it gets hot or starts foaming). ummmm.. lets see what other useless things can i say..... well i think to finish it off I'm just gonna say i don't think Ur gonna like running the plow with the power steering pump, because of the loss of steering and some of the other hustles Ur going to run in to. i would do as previously stated and just get a dedicated clutched pump and mount it in place of the a/c(if you don't ever use it. thats where i put the compressor for my on-board air). well good luck and hope you don't break the bank.(Lord knows i have an several "worth wild" projects.)


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## SnoFarmer

My snow 74 Dodge sno-commander uses a power steering pump for the plow and one for the steering, I think it is asking to much for one pump to do both plow and steering. IMO


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## Mark Oomkes

I think you answered your own question, with the valving.

Yes they can run it, that is the only way plows used to work in the 60's and 70's on pickups, Jeeps and Toyotas. Like SnoFarmer stated. But if I remember correctly, they usually added a pump to operate the plows, not use the same one, just like a clutch pump nowadays. 

I don't think you will have enough flow to run both at the same time, but it would work with proper vavling. 

You don't want the resevoir to be pressurized, clutch pumps operate the same way you have it set up other than if at all possible you want the resevoir higher than the pump. Doesn't always work, but something to shoot for.


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## PiratePlow

*I think I have it figured out.*

My original diagram shows where I have basically tapped into the power steering line.. a split to both the plow and steering.

I think that was the mistake.. it shouldnt be a split.. I have recently learned what the term "center open" means with regards to valves. Both the plow controll valves AND steering are center open.

What I will try is running the line directly from pump to plow valves.. and the return from the valves feeds to the steering.. so with the plow not being moved, its valves are center open.. lets the fluid flow to steering.. only when I am actually moving the plow will it divert the flow to the rams.. It's an easy habit to develop, not to steer while am adjusting the plow.

If the pump blows or I need to steer while the rams are moving, it's not a big deal.. Just uses a little more muscle to turn the wheels that's all.. I've driven the truck for weeks without power steering before


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## PLOWMAN45

why dont u use modern tecno


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## PiratePlow

*why to do it and other things*

The reason I choose to explore this route is because I already have too much crap cramed under my hood. I dont want to sacrifice my AC.. I dont want to try to cram yet another pump under the hood.

I want under hood hydraulics because the standard on-plow elect powered hydro drain too much on the battery.. 4 to 6 jobs and if I stall, I'll need a jump to get going again.. not to mention the definate increase wear on batteries. I also like knowing I can run my plow in colder temps (-20f ) due to the engine warmed hydraulics.

I did spend the few extra bucks to by a new "extra duty" steering pump.. it has about 30% more volume output and metal cased.. more durable by all the various research.

Tomorrow I'll get my hoses made and will be able to test out the set up.

I've read a few boards whee people have mentioned they were going to try something like this.. but they never followed through with the results.. I will give all the results and if successful, will give the step by step and my genneral costs. will also give periodic reports to how well it holds up. I will mention again that I am using a 7 ft fisher blade that was originally for a bronco II . I wanted the light weight blade so it wouldnt thrash my trucks suspension. Oh yea.. another reason to go under hood.. about 70-100 llbs less wt hanging off the front end.

wish me luck.


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## 85F150

PiratePlow said:


> I did spend the few extra bucks to by a new "extra duty" steering pump.. it has about 30% more volume output and metal cased.. more durable by all the various research.


sounds like you picked up the saginaw pump then, is it shaped kinda like canned ham?

There is also a trick to boost the power on the saginaw, they are great pumps. But i would still run a cooler mont in front of the rad....alot of fords in the junkyard have them, or at least by me. I picked one off a 70's dump bed ford, just a small 4" by 7" IIRC...It will do wonders for your pump as it won't kill it as soon.


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## PiratePlow

*DONE!!!! IT works!*

OK.. the pump I bought is a cardone.. extra duty.. from schucks.. napa carried them too, just would have taken longer.. It's about $140, but ya get 40 back on the core... if they're not a stickler about getting an extra duty as a core.

Then, take my power steering pump pressure line off and go have it re fitted. (The fittings in the power steering line and steering box are unique size/threads. The hydraulic line shop I went too said they had to use the original line, to make the hoses I wanted.) They cut out the whole middle rubber section, then make me 2 hoses using arctic grade hydro line. For my needs, the hoses had to be about 22" long. ! end was one of my original steering fittings, the other was a fitting to sttach it to my plow control in and out ports.

Pump to plow control.. plow out port to steering box.. steering box back to pump.

Next, we needed to add just a little more fluid capacity to the pump. I used a rubber 1 1/2" rubber coupling, and use that to clamp around the neck of the pump.. then attached 9" of 1 1/2 PVC.. then i put a PVC cap on the end.. with a few holes drilled in the sides as vents. This gave me the 3/4 pint extra I needed. Otherwise, when I lifted my blade to max, I had no power steering.. (no fluid left to run it)

I've tested it out.. everything is perfect.. My broother an I were able to sit on the blade and it would still lift us.. (about 475 lbs + plow wt.. about 100 lbs more)

will take pictures and diagrams later.. as well as give any problems I bump into.


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## PiratePlow

*some picts of final product*

picture of the pump with the pvc tube extension.

controls mounted in older-unused cassette holder.

picture of the plow valves

working hydraulic diagram


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## fergus7

Hi could you email me directly I am interested in how you set up the pump on your truck to run the plow my email is 
[email protected] I am going to do the same thing with my S 10 
regards
rod


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## LINY Rob

if that set up works then good for you, some people dont want to spend $4500 on a plow, especially if they are only doing thier own house or shop.


Just curious how that PVC extension is going to hold up?
If that pump is metal cant you get a tube welded on it to extend it instead of the PVC?


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## fans

*can you pass a state inspection*

using the same pump for power steering and the plow. I would guess not. Nothing wrong with a separate power steering type pump though.


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## icebladez

this is way cool!!..my only question now is ..how does that panel mounted switch actually work though?..is it something like the more you pull it out,then different angles are the plow are activated??


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## Mowerpan

Wow man big thumbs up for that one. I knew it was possible but never wanted to mess around with it. Awesome job.


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## Detroitdan

You may want to do a search for milemarker, they make some real nice heavy duty winches, major supplier to the military, and they are powered hydraulically by the power steering pump. probably can glean some good info from there. For the cost of a HD pump you could have gotten into a plow pump. I personally wouldnt recommend going through your factory power steering system like that. Even with an HD pump and newer lines, you are bringing to bear a lot more force than the PS system was designed to handle, and over time it will fail. Failing steering is way too serious, if you lose it at the wrong time you can crash, regardless of if you have driven without PS before. When it fails going around a curve at 45, you will crash before you can adjust to the difference. It is a clever idea, but when you consider the availability of the right parts for that vehicle it doesn't make sense to waste the time and money. With what you have invested you could get a whole parts truck or plow to do it the safer way. I had an 84 Bronco with a working Fisher 7.5 given to me, turned around and gave it to my brother to plow with.
Was a straight almost rust free truck. The junkyards are full of them, they really have no value. I don't see why you can't fit a stock pump and bracket under the hood. My 84 had AC, plus dual batteries and a ton of extra stuff for an alarm system, air horns, strobe lights and two way radios.

And how did you come up with only 100 pounds for a plow blade? I think its a little more than that.


Murphyslaw, doesn't your 1 ton power steering also run your brakes, or did they not start doing that yet in 69?


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## PiratePlow

*follow ups.*

The plow has been great.. no problems to note.

the PVC extension: It has been holding up but is a little shakey.. come summer time, I'll probly add something more permanant... spot weld something in place.. but it has been fine. in retrospect, I would have added on a better lip for the clamp to affix to, BEFORE installing the newer pump.

Inspection: state inspecitons? must be a state thing.. nothing here for me to worry about.

Steering failure: hrm.. I've never seen a steering pump just instantly fail.. when they start going, there's typically a whinning sound or such going on. I've driven the truck without power.. its no big deal. To replace the pump IF I ever need to, will cost me $60 w/core exchange, and about 45 minutes time to swap them out.

Why not add yet another pump? I pretty much covered all my reaons for using the power steering unit. *lack of parts,* lack of space, yada yada.

Added wear and tear on the pump: I suppose if I were using the blade to push my truck out of a ditch, there would be more stress than it was designed to handle.. but.. BUT.. it takes much less work for the pump to move my blade side to side and lift it, than my truck normally demands of it to twist those rubber tires back and forth on dry pavement with the weight of the engine over them. I have seen what the power steering pump can and can't do, first hand. I have a brother with a monster truck, 4 wheel steering, tires that stand 5ft tall.
(look at this monster! http://www.knee-deepsvc.com/recovery.htm ) 
He uses just the one power steering pump (the same I bought) to twist and turn those suckers burried in mud. He's never had to replace it.

In any case.. i'm speaking from experiance now.. not conjectures. for me, this works great so far.. and I will continue to post periodic updates.


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## indyhorses

OK....here's what I did on a tractor. I used a power steering pump to run all the hydro for all the lifts and the angle. It worked great but a little slow. I got all I needed from a junk yard for pennies. I would keep your power steering and your plow separate though. If you break a hose then you lose your steering. Or if you are turning in tight spaces and moving the plow you could lose your power steering. Just some thoughts from a junk yard fabricator...


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## meterman95

Thanks alot PiratePlow ! I have been gathering up parts to do the same type project on one of my trucks. This helps clear up some gray areas I had in my design. Is that control valve from a Fisher plow ? I have been looking for a reasonable source for a control valve. Any Ideas ? 
My last low buck plow set up uses a hyd. pump and solenoid valve I pulled from a 12v pallet mover they were throwing away at work. Works great but takes up a quite a bit of room under the hood. Space not available on newer trucks.
Are you still using Hyd. fluid rather than Power steering fluid ?

Thanks for your time.


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## PiratePlow

*fluid and such*

Since it's being used for the power steering and rams, I went with aviation hydraulic fluid.. its about $7 a gallon (NAPA). I used ISO 32 also.. arctic grade hydro fluid... also using arctic grade hydraulic lines.. am told they should last 5 years or more..

I am using a stock fisher valve and cable controlls. I got this set from my brother with the plow blade.. I did cut down the mounting plate to fit more nicely.. dont have much more than that to say.

also adding updated diagram


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## MNATWRK

Very well done! It's nice to see do-it yourselfers out there getting it right and helping other people. Very creative and a great thread. Unfortunatly for a guy like me I do not have the time to get into a project like that. I would rather just get a all new set up and pray for snow to pay it off. A bit of a gamble but worth it in the end. Still, what you did is very cool, and creative.:salute:


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## icebladez

man this was a good thread!!..i sure would like more pictures of what it all looks like all together&working the snow!!!..though i'm still a little impaired on how you actually control this beast..


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## dodgedump

What can be used for the valve body. Do I need solenoids? I have a Meyer plow setup and need a valve to control up/down left/right. I am planning on using the power steering setup that you used for a pump.


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## PiratePlow

*controls and a realization...*

The controls: are old fashioned fisher stock, cable controls.. (not the newer electronic joy stick or toggle buttons) But if you have the electronic fish stick and solenoid controlled valves.. they all do the same job.

realization.. OK I was reading over all the posts.. and I figured out something else I need to change when i get a minute.

Currently, the fluid flows from:
From pump--to/through plow valves--to sterring--back to pump.

It's not normally something I do but IF i try to adjust my plow WHILE I am steering, the steering gets a little tight (harder.. but not drastically.. and am at creeping speeds anyhow).. but what I realized is this.. I need to change the flow pattern to be:

From* pump---to/through steering--THEN to plow controls--then back to pump. *:redbounce

In this way, the steering (because it's first in the line) ALWAYS has priority over the fluid/power.. the plow only gets the fluid/force that isn't being used by steering (meaning only when steering isnt being used). steering would NEVER feel tight/hard.

It's just a thought.. will test it out sometime and let ya know.

The PVC extension: It was working loose and leaking on occasion.. I found a way to fix it without welding. Essentially, I used a couple of those hose clamps that screw down nice and tight. I put a clamp around the neck of the pump.. one around the PVC extention about mid way up.. then ran a strap thru them both.. tightened them down. it's tight, and not working loose anymore.:bluebounc

Thanks again for all the great feedback.. 
"He who asks a question, is a fool for a moment; he who does not ask, remains a fool forever" -_old chinese proverb_


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## urhstry

*OEM pics?*

Can someone post a picture of a Dodge Sno-Commander setup where they have two PS pumps? Thanks.


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## ron in delphi

ok, 
just becouse of this thread i am joining this forum, 
i just picked up an old blade and intended to do exactly what is described here, i want to use quick connects so that i could also put a hydo winch form mile marker on the front. 
fist i cant thank you enough for explaining how this is done, i figured out some of it, but you have taken care of every question i had. 
second, Ill be setting this up in the next couple of weeks and if things go well, ill share the photo mess here. 
lastly, i have no idea how this has held up. but assume it should still be fine, the winch im purchasing is a 9000lb kit, and works off the power steering pump as well, so the blade should be far less a job to work than this winch. eh? 
well done and thanks


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## PLOWMAN45

I forgot about this topic dam its old


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## Lifted4x4Astro

I did the same thing on my Astro...










I used the stock Saginaw pump and used a Milemarker 12V solenoid valve to control the plow up and down. I used a Snowbear so I didn't have any angling. The only issue I ran into was the 3 micron inline filter I used plugged up during a 5 day storm. The stock Astro hydroboost system has an external reservoir mounted up on the firewall that held enough fluid. I also ran an external cooler due to the hot summer wheeling temps.

I eventually went to a 10 GPM (at idle ) hydraulic pump with an electric clutch for a full-on hydraulic system. Mounted a 10 gallon reservoir and used quick disconnects out in front for either the Milemarker winch or the snowplow.


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## ron in delphi

wow. that is exactly my set im wanting to build, dont have the winch yet, but the idea is to set the kit up for the future. 
the filter is good news, i have a company here in town that builds those boom trucks, i think ill sit down with them and have a discussion about filters and couplers before i start. 
i am surprise at how few of people i talk to tell me it will work


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## Lifted4x4Astro

If you can swing it, put in a dedicated hydraulic pump for the winch and plow. It will be well worth it in the end! The problem with using the power steering pump for the Milemarker winch is that it will be very slow when pulling a heavy load. Once I switched to the hydraulic pump, the winch was able to pull in at 36 feet per minute, and I only had a single (low range) speed 9k# Milemarker. With a newer 2 speed you will see some serious speed in hi gear.

There is almost no room under the hood of an Astro and I fit it ok...


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## Grampa Plow

I would have never believed it could be done.....amazing!


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## PLOWMAN45

how much did the set up cost


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## Lifted4x4Astro

Never added up the cost so here goes...

Tank...free, made at work
Pump...free from a buddy, bought a $20 rebuild kit and a $125 electric clutch
Hoses...free, made them at work too
Valve...about $80 from Norther tool
oil...10 gallons from TSC around $60
Quick connects were also free from work...gotta love working in a large industrial setting. 

Total costs: about $285

Forgot about the new, longer serp belt and a different tensioner...so add about $40 to $50 there.


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## ron in delphi

there are two real and indisputable benefits on running the blade off the motor as opposed to the stranded set up. 
first the pump itself that comes with the set up i just bought is heavy, i have a 95 jeep, meyer and western both expressed concern about hooking a plow to this without suspension mods. loosing the pump looses this weight. 
second is money/time, most folks i know spend a bit each year maintaining or even rebuilding the pump unit its electric motor or the lot, this way all that is kept in a box in the garage, no maintenance. keeping your cylinders clean is all the maintenance you should ever need. 

as far as the separate pump.....
4wd.com supplies higher flow P/S pumps for folks with the MIleMarker and Warn hydro winches, I am also thinking of this, only becouse im hoping to put an old AC unit in the AC spot and use it as an air compressor to run tools and refill tires. This is a jeep trick. 

By the way, im not sure where you work, but it sounds that they should get some sponsoring on the side of the ole asto van. 
thanks agian.


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## PiratePlow

*update -- yee haw!!*

WOW! hard to believe it's been 3 almost 4 years now..

But to update, no changes..

it all works fine, still plowing on the same steering pump driven system.. same pump I bought for the install. I've put about a hundred or so hours on it.. I never got around to pulling the pump and welding a longer neck, so the PVC extension with rubber boot and clamps leak occasionally.

I have even been abusing the system a bit, just running basic hydraulic fluid, instead of that pricey aircraft grade stuff I started with. If it's super cold out (-20 or more) the rams move slow when I first move them, but once I move them back and forth a few times to mix the warm fluid in, they do fine.

I'm pleased the thread has helped.. too bad my original diagrams and photos are gone.. I'll see if I can dig them up and repost a few.

*Cheers! from Fairbanks Alaska!*

It it works here, it will probably work anywhere!


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## PiratePlow

*still up and running, almost*

the hydraulics are fine.. clipped a curb in a parking lot and folded my blade with the wings I had fabbed up on it.. oh well.. still working out that one.. probably need to use a spring to hold the wings so they have some give over a hundred pounds of pressure or something.

but the steering pump is the same as I put on back in 06 or what ever.. when i made this thread.


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## dodgeboy06

Thanks for the long term test results. Glad to hear it is still going 'strong' for you.


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## TroyG

i love mods! awesome job bro!!!


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## bigheadnick

First thank you very much for posting this as I'm going to try it myself and have been scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to hook up an old belt driven pump on my old dodge, Solution: forget the pump and use the power steering Frikkin genius! I wonder though anyone know how tough my stock power steering on my 92 dakota 5.2 is? You think it will hold up?


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## fonty

*Flow path questions*

Did you ever accomplish this, flowing through the steering gear and then use the return back to the plow valve as described in your post below?



PiratePlow;271926 said:


> The controls: are old fashioned fisher stock, cable controls.. (not the newer electronic joy stick or toggle buttons) But if you have the electronic fish stick and solenoid controlled valves.. they all do the same job.
> 
> realization.. OK I was reading over all the posts.. and I figured out something else I need to change when i get a minute.
> 
> Currently, the fluid flows from:
> From pump--to/through plow valves--to sterring--back to pump.
> 
> It's not normally something I do but IF i try to adjust my plow WHILE I am steering, the steering gets a little tight (harder.. but not drastically.. and am at creeping speeds anyhow).. but what I realized is this.. I need to change the flow pattern to be:
> 
> From* pump---to/through steering--THEN to plow controls--then back to pump. *:redbounce
> 
> In this way, the steering (because it's first in the line) ALWAYS has priority over the fluid/power.. the plow only gets the fluid/force that isn't being used by steering (meaning only when steering isnt being used). steering would NEVER feel tight/hard.
> 
> It's just a thought.. will test it out sometime and let ya know.
> 
> The PVC extension: It was working loose and leaking on occasion.. I found a way to fix it without welding. Essentially, I used a couple of those hose clamps that screw down nice and tight. I put a clamp around the neck of the pump.. one around the PVC extention about mid way up.. then ran a strap thru them both.. tightened them down. it's tight, and not working loose anymore.:bluebounc
> 
> Thanks again for all the great feedback..
> "He who asks a question, is a fool for a moment; he who does not ask, remains a fool forever" -_old chinese proverb_


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## 2WHEELGNNR

pirate 4x4....thinking of doing the same with mine as Im buy a plow tonight with under the hood hydraulics (fisher) and stick controller and I know it wont fit under hood so...Im gonna give this a try with the way to said after the fact...PSP to SB to Valve control for plow to PSP.....Thanks...you've given me confidence....Used stock PSP??? I thinking of stock PSP...

Thank you


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## gmcdan

you might want to put a flow control valve to slow down the rams, im wondering if you activate a ram and it slams open or closed to fast if back pressure builds up and blows out you steering box seals . in a sense aren't you stopping fluid flow for a split second when a ram reaches its end . maybe im thinking wrong on how the system works.


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## 2WHEELGNNR

Im thinking og going his second thought route....PSP to steering box to plow valve then back to PSP...I have a lot of thinking to do on this...sorta new to Hydraulics........Trying to see how I can run this under hood mount properly........no room under hood for it............its got me stumped for this moment.


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## 2WHEELGNNR

OR can I put a t on the power steering outpit side...and split it...may not be enough volume for that.


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## gmcdan

maybe you can contact plow mfgr and ask best way to do it .. my thoughts are when your operating your plow your moving fairly slow or at a stop or going straight you don't really need power steering . and when your moving faster its easier to turn without it. most of the time your not operating your plow or turning at the same time.


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