# What Motor Oil Brand Do You Use In Your Truck?



## mercer_me (Sep 13, 2008)

In my 2002 Chevy 1500 4.8L I use Castrol GTX 5W30 and I change my oil every 3,500 miles. In my Dad's 2010 Toyota Tundra 4.6L he uses Mobil 1 5W20 and he changes his oil every 10,000 miles (what Toyota recommends). When I buy a new vehicle I'm going use Mobil 1 if it's a gas job and Shell Rotella T or T6 if it's a diesel. I was just curious on what everybody else is using for motor oil.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

I run the t6 5w40 in the winter. 15 40 rotella in summer.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

Valvoline 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter. I'm going to add to the OP's question.......Do you guys go by mileage or months? I don't drive my truck too many miles in a year but I have a hard time believing oil just all of a sudden goes bad after 3 months.


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## mike6256 (Dec 15, 2007)

I always used Rotella in my diesel.


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## welded wrenches (Oct 19, 2004)

15w 40 rotella in 350 chevy gas,because it lasts lThumbs Uponger


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

Mobile 5000 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter. I asked my oil Rep on the 3000 miles. 3 months thing he told me that with the new oils. You can go 5000-6000 miles or 3-6 months he said a lot is on where you live and how you drive. He also told me I'm changing my oil in my equipment to much instead of every 150 hours do 200 hours. I hope I helped out


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

I personally am switching my gassers over to Amsoil or Royal Purple. I've seen some really good things in customer's motors (WaveRunners) that I've switched over to Amsoil and have decided to switch my personal daily drivers over as well.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

peteo1;1508262 said:


> Valvoline 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter. I'm going to add to the OP's question.......Do you guys go by mileage or months? I don't drive my truck too many miles in a year but I have a hard time believing oil just all of a sudden goes bad after 3 months.


Depends on he type of driving.


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## Grassman09 (Mar 18, 2009)

brad96z28;1508259 said:


> I run the t6 5w40 in the winter. 15 40 rotella in summer.


You switch from Synthetic to non synthetic all the time?

The T6 is cheap. Here in Canada a Canadian Gallon sells for $42 in the US it was just on sale at Tractor supply for $18.00 Cheap.

I run the Synthetic Rotells all year in the diesel truck and non synthetic Rotella in our Diesel dump truck. Used to use the Amsoil stuff buts its stupidly expensive.


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## MWSAI (Aug 19, 2012)

Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic all year round in all my gas rigs.


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## Alaskaforby4 (Nov 7, 2011)

Amsoil and filter every 10k new filter at 5k


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## meborder (Oct 26, 2011)

peteo1;1508262 said:


> Valvoline 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter. I'm going to add to the OP's question.......Do you guys go by mileage or months? I don't drive my truck too many miles in a year but I have a hard time believing oil just all of a sudden goes bad after 3 months.


on vehicles that don't get many miles, i go by months. 12 in my case.

anything that does not get driven much gets an oil change once a year.

the plow truck uses wal-mart 10w-30, and a walmart filter. it's old ... everything else uses motorcraft or trop-artic oil and a motorcraft filter. 'cept the cavilier, it gets a delco filter.


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## Plowtoy (Dec 15, 2001)

I have been using Napa Full synthetic 15W50 in my Yukon and in my wife's Impala and have been changing it as the DIC says to (about 7500 miles, or about every 4 months in the Impala or about 6-8 months in the Yukon) and use Conventional (Napa or Valvoline) diesel oil 15W40 in the Super Duty and change that every 5k or about once a year


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

I cringe every time I hear someone say that they use Amsoil. It's absolutely the worst lubricant in existence. Heck, if you're going to use Amsoil you might as well switch to sand since they both have the same amount of lubricity and sand is a lot cheaper.


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## snowplowpro (Feb 7, 2006)

Motorcraft 5w30


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## Stik208 (Oct 19, 2004)

There are so many ones for post count.


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## MWSAI (Aug 19, 2012)

Camden;1508502 said:


> I cringe every time I hear someone say that they use Amsoil. It's absolutely the worst lubricant in existence. Heck, if you're going to use Amsoil you might as well switch to sand since they both have the same amount of lubricity and sand is a lot cheaper.


Please explain???


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## vintage steel (Nov 15, 2011)

10w-30, cheapest stuff I can find. The trick is to actually change your oil. For flters, I use Pro-Tec it is O'Reilly's commercial brand. They are made by WIX and they are about $1.65 each when you buy a case.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

MWSAI;1510131 said:


> Please explain???


I agree. Please explain why you "think" Amsoil has the same lubricity as sand.

I can personally attest to the opposite.


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## unhcp (Jan 20, 2010)

Mobil 1 is my personal choice


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

I don't use it but would like to know why


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

MWSAI;1510131 said:


> Please explain???


I was conned into trying Amsoil in ~2000. I listened to their whole speech about how it "cleans" your engine and that you can go 15,000 miles between changes (I don't remember the exact number but it was outrageously high).

It all sounded good. I had recently purchased a new 1 ton dually and I was on the road constantly because I was doing repossession work.

So I agreed to try to it. I paid somewhere in the mid-$100s for it to be done which seemed high but they said it would save me money in the long run (another one of their ploys to get you to switch over from traditional oil).

After 5000 miles I was getting a bit nervous. When I'd check the dipstick it looked black. I was doing some major towing every day so I decided to pull the plug and see what was going on. Well, you would not believe how the oil looked. It didn't pour out of the pan, it FELL out of the pan in chunks. I was so upset...I literally felt like I took years off the life of my engine.

I went back to the Amsoil folks/con artists and told them my experience and they had the balls to say that it was normal because I was running "cheap" oil before that and the Amsoil was "cleaning" the engine! Apparently Rotella is cheap oil, who knew?1? They have an answer for everything.

It was a brand new truck, the oil was changed like clockwork but yet they wanted me to believe that I needed Amsoil to swoop in and save my engine before it was too late. Give me a break!

I run Rotella now and I'll never switch to anything else again. I have to give the Amsoil folks some credit though. Their marketing department is fantastic because they're able to sucker people into buying their products every day.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

I used to run Amsoil and never had a problem. The stuff works great. I ran my truck for close to 13,000 before I actually changed the oil. All I ever did was spin a new filter on every 3,000 and top off. Took samples and had them tested and everything checked out ok. The only reason I quit using it is because its so expensive.


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## MARK SUPPLY (Jan 14, 2008)

Camden;1510252 said:


> I was conned into trying Amsoil in ~2000. I listened to their whole speech about how it "cleans" your engine and that you can go 15,000 miles between changes (I don't remember the exact number but it was outrageously high).
> 
> It all sounded good. I had recently purchased a new 1 ton dually and I was on the road constantly because I was doing repossession work.
> 
> ...


Sounds like your "New" truck could have used a motor flush before you switched to Amsoil. Ohh wait Amsoil does recommend doing that..... before running long drain intervals. 
Bottom Line use what you are comfortable with but don't bash other Companies/People because YOU can't follow directions.


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

MARK SUPPLY;1510506 said:


> Sounds like your "New" truck could have used a motor flush before you switched to Amsoil. Ohh wait Amsoil does recommend doing that..... before running long drain intervals.
> Bottom Line use what you are comfortable with but don't bash other Companies/People because YOU can't follow directions.


Yeah, right right...motor flush. Got it


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

I'm still laughing over the motor flush thing. Like I mentioned in my earlier post, they've got an answer for everything. "Of course you're going to have issues, you didn't change your oil on the 2nd Tuesday after the 1st quarter of a new moon using Snap On wrenches and a 4 post hoist from Bendpak". You gotta follow the directions LOL


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## Rick547 (Oct 9, 2009)

I always had a problem with Amsoil but I've never used it. Why might you ask? I have never seen a Automobile or Truck manufacture recommend Amsoil. If it was so great would they want to use it to save warranty problems? You bet your sweet bippy they would. 

I'll stick with recommended brands and oil change usage.


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Grassman09;1508389 said:


> You switch from Synthetic to non synthetic all the time?
> 
> The T6 is cheap. Here in Canada a Canadian Gallon sells for $42 in the US it was just on sale at Tractor supply for $18.00 Cheap.
> 
> I run the Synthetic Rotells all year in the diesel truck and non synthetic Rotella in our Diesel dump truck. Used to use the Amsoil stuff buts its stupidly expensive.


I sure do In the summer I do mostly short trips that runis the oil. I need to change it early. Why waste money on synthetic thats intended for extened intervals. And 15 40 in the winter has the viscosity of molases I dont want that in a cold start.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

I'll tell you what I'll do...this will be interesting but it'll take a little while for the results to be completed.

This winter I will be assembling two engines for use in my PWC (personal watercraft) rental fleet for next year. Both will be 4 stroke engines. I will take photos of each engine and it's internals before it is put together. After the season is over, I'll tear each one down and go through them and take photos afterwards. In one I will run nothing but Amsoil and in the other I will run the recommended oil from the OEM and then post the results.

I'm sure most everyone here will be curious as to the end results. All those interested say AYE.


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

That's awesome! Aye!!


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## brad96z28 (Aug 21, 2005)

Wish you could do 3 and run one with mobil 1.


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## peteo1 (Jul 4, 2011)

I'm curious, aye!


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## blazer2plower (Nov 19, 2011)

Aye would like to see thanks


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## vegaman04 (Dec 12, 2007)

Aye! Aye! Aye!


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## tuney443 (Jun 25, 2006)

I'm sure Amsoil is a fine quality product but the problem myself and others have with it is that they DO NOT have their oil certified with the API.Why not you ask,while almost every other oil company does? Nobody really knows for sure,don't think it's cost because it's really not that expensive.I'll stick with my Schaeffer Oil---oldest oil co. in the U.S.--started 1839."It's not the cost to buy..."it's the cost to use."Using their lab for SOS,I'm good for 7-8K miles on my Dmax,250 hours on my excavating iron using their 7000 series 15/40 with moly.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

brad96z28;1510627 said:


> Wish you could do 3 and run one with mobil 1.


I'd be curious to see the Mobil 1 results as well but I'm not sure they make one for these engines. These turn up to 10k rpms and the oil isn't quite the same as off the shelf oils. But I will look and see. I may consider it as well.


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## Mark13 (Dec 3, 2006)

I run mainly Rotella, although Motorcraft, John Deere, and Valvoline have been used before. 15w40 all year around.


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## tyler886 (Mar 8, 2008)

Valvoline Havy Duty Diesel 15w40 for my 7.3 Powerstroke. Conventional 15w40 Napa for my 351 gasjob, which is made by Valvoline in a Napa bottle. 

I was a typical Rotella guy like everyone else, until I noticed the oil standards and specs the Valvoline meets that Rotella cant touch.

-Tyler


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## jasonv (Nov 2, 2012)

Camden;1510252 said:


> I was conned into trying Amsoil in ~2000. I listened to their whole speech about how it "cleans" your engine and that you can go 15,000 miles between changes (I don't remember the exact number but it was outrageously high).


Definitely some marketing in there. ALL oil will clean your engine. That's what an oil change is for, to change out the old dirty oil.

15000 miles, maybe in some circumstances, some engines. There are engines that are factory rated for 10000 mile intervals. Knowing that specifications like this will always leave a huge margin for error, 15000 isn't all that outrageous.



> It all sounded good. I had recently purchased a new 1 ton dually and I was on the road constantly because I was doing repossession work.


What kind of engine would that be? The engines that are usually rated for high mileage change intervals are things like foreign 4-cyl compact cars. Toyota Corolla, for example. On trucks, the manuals also ALWAYS say to change more frequently when subject to hard work. So yeah, 15000 maybe, IF it was a high precision foreign engine AND you didn't use it for hard work.



> So I agreed to try to it. I paid somewhere in the mid-$100s for it to be done which seemed high but they said it would save me money in the long run (another one of their ploys to get you to switch over from traditional oil).
> 
> After 5000 miles I was getting a bit nervous. When I'd check the dipstick it looked black. I was *doing some major towing every day* so I decided to pull the plug and see what was going on. Well, you would not believe how the oil looked. It didn't pour out of the pan, it FELL out of the pan in chunks. I was so upset...I literally felt like I took years off the life of my engine.


I think that you fall into the definition of "severe use". That engine probably didn't have any life taken off it, but should probably have been given a very thorough flush/cleaning if the oil came out chunky as you describe.



> I went back to the Amsoil folks/con artists and told them my experience and they had the balls to say that it was normal because I was running "cheap" oil before that and the Amsoil was "cleaning" the engine! Apparently Rotella is cheap oil, who knew?1? They have an answer for everything.


I don't think this is a question of cheap vs. expensive oil, rather that the vehicle itself wasn't compatible with the kind of change intervals recommended by amsoil. I wonder how well your usage was communicated to them? Did you also change to a high capacity OIL FILTER when you went with the amsoil? The filter will plug up the same whether you change the oil frequently or infrequently. You were probably bypassing. Also, I believe that amsoil is more tight with *performance* vehicles than trucks.



> It was a brand new truck, the oil was changed like clockwork but yet they wanted me to believe that I needed Amsoil to swoop in and save my engine before it was too late. Give me a break!
> 
> I run Rotella now and I'll never switch to anything else again. I have to give the Amsoil folks some credit though. Their marketing department is fantastic because they're able to sucker people into buying their products every day.


So you bought into the Rotella sales pitch instead of the Amsoil one?

What would have been really nice, if you got Amsoil out in the condition you say you did, would have been to have an oil analysis done on it.

Now personally, if I was going to try out an oil change interval that was severely long, I wouldn't be comfortable just jumping right into it. I would definitely want to get regular oil analyses done while trying out the procedure the first few times. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ -- just to see how my vehicle handled it.


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## MARK SUPPLY (Jan 14, 2008)

Aye! Hey Laszlo if you are interested in getting Amsoil @ wholesale pm me. I might be interested in providing some for the test too.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

MARK SUPPLY;1512747 said:


> Aye! Hey Laszlo if you are interested in getting Amsoil @ wholesale pm me. I might be interested in providing some for the test too.


Thanks Mark...I appreciate it. I'm already an Amsoil dealer so I get it at the reduced price already. I'll be changing it anyway with Amsoil but if you'd like to chip in some since I'll be doing two teardowns at the end of the season that'd be awesome. 

And no, I will not be fudging any data because I am an Amsoil dealer. I myself want the best I can run and only want to provide the same for my customers...that is the reason for the teardown offer. I think this is something I think everyone can benefit from.


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## Trapper-Randy (Nov 6, 2012)

I run Pennzoil 10w30 in my truck and Wolfs Head 15w40 synthetic blend in the skid steer and dozer.

T-R


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## unit28 (Jan 1, 2007)

MARK SUPPLY;1510506 said:


> Sounds like your "New" truck could have used a motor flush before you switched to Amsoil. Ohh wait Amsoil does recommend doing that..... before running long drain intervals.
> Bottom Line use what you are comfortable with but don't bash other Companies/People because YOU can't follow directions.


why, that's what Amsoil is...a motor flush.

I had the same results as Camden. 
Used a platnum Napa filter and amsoil, within 7 days was toast.
After 500 miles was completly black.

You'd have to do a comparisson with a name brand flush, but you will
get the exact same results. This is the reason no one should run it.
It dislodges sluge, same as either a named brand flush or amsoil,
and once that happens on even a moderate mileaged vehicle 
you are going to fark the engine.

why does amsoil recommend a flush? amsoil is a flush.


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

jasonv;1512578 said:


> What would have been really nice, if you got Amsoil out in the condition you say you did, would have been to have an oil analysis done on it.


Nice post, jasonv. Sorry it's taken me a while to respond but I completely agree that I should've had an oil analysis done. I was so upset at the time that my mind wasn't even thinking clearly. I just remember seeing these black chunks fall out of my oil pan and I kept thinking "what did I just do to my truck!?!".



MARK SUPPLY;1512747 said:


> Aye! Hey Laszlo if you are interested in getting Amsoil @ wholesale pm me. I might be interested in providing some for the test too.


Ha - I knew you were a dealer for them with the way you jumped down my throat.

After tuney443 said that Amsoil isn't API certified, I wanted to find out what that meant so I Googled it. Sure enough there are thousands of people who have had the exact same experiences that I had (many people call it "Scamsoil"). You need to take your Amsoil blinders off and realize that what you're selling is widely considered "substandard".



unit28;1515219 said:


> why, that's what Amsoil is...a motor flush.
> 
> I had the same results as Camden.
> Used a platnum Napa filter and amsoil, within 7 days was toast.
> ...


Laszlo might be able to answer this. It seems like he knows what he's talking about.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

Uhh...I didn't just down anyones throat. I myself switched over to Amsoil full synthetic in my '01 daily driver and haven't have the first problem at all.


As for a motor flush...I personally don't recommend a flush on a high mileage engine. If you've never seen the inside of an engine after many miles you will see caked on deposits where the oil cooks down and reduces over and over and over. If you flush it, all you might do is to release all of those deposits and yes...it'll come out in chunks. I'd just go straight to a switch and roll on with it.

I became a dealer because some of my customers asked me about full synthetics for their Waverunners. I did some research and testing and decided to become a dealer and so far, we've seen nothing but good results from each engine that is switched over to Amsoil. I still keep regular tabs on the condition of the oil because you never know. I also keep regular tabs on my mileage (just about every tank that I fill up completely on) to see what effects my mileage and what does not. Thus far, I only run non-ethanol fuel as I saw an increase of about 20% in my mileage...but that is a different thread.

FWIW, I am also in the process of getting set up as a dealer for Royal Purple. I also realised how much better this was after the lube in my differential was switched over. I wasn't fond of the price of it but after I drove down the street and could actually "hear" the difference and how much quieter it was I knew it was the best lube I've ever had in it. Also, it's very hard to tell unless you are really in synch with your engine and other items you switch but I can feel a difference in how much smoother my engine runs at idle with the Amsoil vs the regular dyno oil I had been running. Right now I am keeping track of the mpg changes due to the switch. I'll let you guys know what I end up with.

And the profit in being a dealer for their products is not sufficient to not tell the truth. All I have to say is try some. I use their grease and the sprayable greases as well and they all work great.


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## Alaskaforby4 (Nov 7, 2011)

I switched my 7.3 with 66k mi. over to amsoil 15-40 drove it 500 miles and the leaks began! oil was seeping out of everywhere. All down the front of the engine along with the rear main seal. I was bummed out because I really like the stuff, but apparently its just a little to thin for the ol' girl. I switched back to regular 15-40 and it seems to be fine again


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## Camden (Mar 10, 2007)

Laszlo Almasi;1517885 said:


> Uhh...I didn't just down anyones throat.


I wasn't referring to you in my earlier post. Your posts are great and very informative. I was referring to what "Mark Supply" said in post #24... the one about doing a motor flush and following Amsoil's specific directions.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

Camden;1517903 said:


> I wasn't referring to you in my earlier post. Your posts are great and very informative. I was referring to what "Mark Supply" said in post #24... the one about doing a motor flush and following Amsoil's specific directions.


Ah..ok Cam...sorry about that. I think my brain was trying to recover from all I have going on right now and needed more coffee. Now that I have my required amount of coffee I am fully awake. My brain however, is still reeling from all the changes going on in my life.


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## Laszlo Almasi (Feb 11, 2006)

Alaskaforby4;1517897 said:


> I switched my 7.3 with 66k mi. over to amsoil 15-40 drove it 500 miles and the leaks began! oil was seeping out of everywhere. All down the front of the engine along with the rear main seal. I was bummed out because I really like the stuff, but apparently its just a little to thin for the ol' girl. I switched back to regular 15-40 and it seems to be fine again


This is one thing that I had thought about after I tore down my engine (360 gasser made it to 285k miles) and saw all the build up of gunk. Then, the replacement engine with 140k miles on it had the same type of build up but not as much. I thought to myself...how about all the gaskets and seals that this buildup actually helps to seal and prevent leaks. I decided to go ahead and give it a try. So far so good. I've got about 750 miles and no leaks. I even pressure washed everything so I could see if any leaks develop. Well, I pressure washed it after I installed the engine...no leaks and now Amsoil with no leaks either but I am constantly keeping an eye on it. We shall see.


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## Plow Nuts (Jan 11, 2011)

I ran castrol syntec in all my cars and trucks and I will tell you why. Back when I was in gm tech school in the early 90's we built a 351 ford Windsor motor for testing. With 5 hours run time we drained the oil, filled it with syntec, ran it for 5 hours, drained it, then ran it....with no oil in it. After 5 hours at 2500 rpms it did not blow up. We all wanted to see parts coming out of the block but no luck. We put the oil we drained out back in and ran it again...quiet as a mouse. Took it apart and no damage at all. I am a believer. As for the 10-15k oil change intervals.....f' that. If you have seen some of the cakes up engines that I have that followed oem intervals you would cringe too. 3-5 k intervals with delco filters on all my gm products with castol or mobile synthetic oils. I got 392k on my 1990 gm v6, 354k on my 96 gm v6, 302k on my 04 gm motor ( which I just resealed and it looked new on the inside). There is no way anyone can convince me 
7500-10000 mile intervals are good. I avg 90k miles a year all highway plus idling all day. The engine is running 8+ hours per day. I plan on pushing this motor to 600k before retiring it. It is all about quality oil and the intervals.


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## oneoldsap (Dec 26, 2011)

I run conventional 5-30 Valvoline in my truck (5,000 Mi. interval), and Mobil-1 or Castrol SynTech , in all my air cooled engines ! Synthetics don't burn off as readily as petro oils do , in air cooled engines !


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## 04hd (Jan 3, 2013)

Now im no expert but that being said experience is worth a lot... Dad had an 01 ford v 10 changed oil with filter at 10,000 miles he used farm and fleet brand 10 30 and the cheapest filter he could find. sold the truck with 290some thousand miles on it and it is still around running great. My self I do the same and have had no issues.


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## daman (Dec 26, 2012)

Sig says it all...


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## 2COR517 (Oct 23, 2008)

daman;1556217 said:


> Sig says it all...


More than you realize.


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## daman (Dec 26, 2012)

2COR517;1556540 said:


> More than you realize.


Good......You always have something positive to say don't you?


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## DieselSlug (Nov 30, 2009)

In my Diesel i almost always run Rotella 15w-40 all year. I just can't imagine running a Diesel rig that long without changing the oil?! Id go with the synthetic Rotella but the cost is much higher. I guess its me, but id rather change the oil/filter more often with conventional. I guess its more of the idea of actually removing the deposits.

Lately ive been running NAPA brand 15w-40 oil. A store owner told me (not sure if its 100% true) that NAPA brand oil was really re-bottled Valvoline. 

So im actually about to go out and get all this stuff for a oil change Monday. At 3k miles i start to get the stuff together for a change, so i guess my interval is about 3500 miles. Currently at 2990.


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## Plowtoy (Dec 15, 2001)

DieselSlug;1557124 said:


> Lately ive been running NAPA brand 15w-40 oil. A store owner told me (not sure if its 100% true) that NAPA brand oil was really re-bottled Valvoline.


I have run NAPA oil in my cars and trucks for a while now and have had good luck in both gas and diesel with their oil. My NAPA store also said the same thing about it being Valvoline just in a blue bottle.


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## daman (Dec 26, 2012)

Plowtoy;1557125 said:


> I have run NAPA oil in my cars and trucks for a while now and have had good luck in both gas and diesel with their oil. My NAPA store also said the same thing about it being Valvoline just in a blue bottle.


Valvoline bottles it yes BUT....at a reduced level,the additive package suffers some,still a good oil,and guys running a synthetic 5w40 year around is perfect,just take your interval out longer to off set the cost. Th 6.6 Dmax engine(if you have one) is very easy on oil doing 8-10k is no problem UOAs show.


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## Landgreen (Sep 8, 2007)

I buy performance engineered oil from Sam's Club. Its API certified and VERY inexpensive. I've been running it in my gasser trucks and mowers. Never had an engine failure. I have a kohler 25hp with 4000hrs on original engine. Not a fancy name or bottle but works. That's all that matters IMO.


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## DieselSlug (Nov 30, 2009)

daman;1557130 said:


> Valvoline bottles it yes BUT....at a reduced level,the additive package suffers some,still a good oil,and guys running a synthetic 5w40 year around is perfect,just take your interval out longer to off set the cost. Th 6.6 Dmax engine(if you have one) is very easy on oil doing 8-10k is no problem UOAs show.


I wouldn't doubt that. I just went and picked up 3 gallon jugs of NAPA 15w-40. Currently on sale for $9.99 EA. That's a real good price! Normally $13-14 a gallon.

My 6.5 Diesel runs 21.5:1 compression, so it makes the oil real dirty. Wonder if they have any recommended interval for it?


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## daman (Dec 26, 2012)

DieselSlug;1557143 said:


> I wouldn't doubt that. I just went and picked up 3 gallon jugs of NAPA 15w-40. Currently on sale for $9.99 EA. That's a real good price! Normally $13-14 a gallon.
> 
> My 6.5 Diesel runs 21.5:1 compression, so it makes the oil real dirty. Wonder if they have any recommended interval for it?


Thats a good great price sure,the 6.5 guys usually change them more often i had a '99 before this truck and did 5k with that.


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## NICHOLS LANDSCA (Sep 15, 2007)

2COR517;1556540 said:


> More than you realize.


Ha Ha I caught that too Math and grammar just aren't taught anymore. You'd think the schools would have more time to teach....they don't say the pledge of allegiance anymore

edit Better contribute to the OP Amsoil in everything except the hydros of the Cats. Cat spec is an emulsifier, Amsoil hydro oils are only a demulsifier


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## hazardous hicks (Jan 4, 2013)

i have an 05 chevy 2500 hd duramax and i go amsoil all the way 5w40 in winter and 15w40 in the summer


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## SNOMACHINE (Dec 2, 2009)

Pennzoil in gas engines, DA Lubricants Reliant 15w-40 in all the diesels. Used to run Rotela but have changed since DA is cleaner and more efficient oil. Not knocking Rotela 1 bit!


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## R&R Yard Design (Dec 6, 2004)

Do you have a website for the DA's lubricants


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## SNOMACHINE (Dec 2, 2009)

R&R Yard Design;1563688 said:


> Do you have a website for the DA's lubricants


www.dalube.com


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## 06Sierra (Nov 30, 2008)

Mobil 1 for me. I ran synthetic penzoil once. At around 4000 miles both vehicles were 2 quarts low. Never had that happen before or after with Mobil 1.


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## Hawkeyestoob (Jan 7, 2013)

brad96z28;1508259 said:


> I run the t6 5w40 in the winter. 15 40 rotella in summer.


What he said.


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